Where Magazine Venice Dec 2017 by Morris Media Network

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE C Y

DECEMBER 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

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Â®

YOUR

C IT GUID Y E

DEAR SANTA, PLEASE TAKE ME TO VENICE Winter holidays in the lagoon GIFT IDEAS Our pick of the best seasonal trends

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Venice December 2017 10

the guide

SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

FOCUS

20 SHOPPING

Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is ‘the’ go-to address for a one-stop shopping experience

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

40 DINING

Head to the Vecio Fritolin, an historic locale offering a selection of gourmet specialties prepared by two chefs

My Christmas Venice

GIFT GUIDE

50 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA D

A visit to the Orsoni Mosaics foundry is an absolute must Venini

56 ENTERTAINMENT Orsoni Mosaic foundry

The city's passion for antiques is embedded within its soul. OND ROT

CAN

LAR

CAL

O ITEL CAP

E DEL

G PIAV

HIA

ROS

CALLE

ERI

stol

CALLE

ti Apo San

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

LE STEL LA

CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

TEST A E DE

CALL

DOSE E DEL CALL

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

TAR

ADI

DEL

FRU

PAR

DEL

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

DEL CAL LE

FOR DEL LE CAL

BALBI

APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

SAN A CHI VEC

SALIZADA

EI BAS

ILE

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

CALLE

A N M

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

CATECUMENI

RIO TERRÀ

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

O SANTO

FONDAME

TE ZAT TA EN

San

BRAG

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

Zattere

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo ND

BIA

Sant'Eufemia FO

'EU

FEM

ITE

FONDA

CALL

E COSM

MENTA

PONTE

PICCOL

GIUDECCA FONDA

M E N TA

SAN GI ACOM

Redentore O

N CA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca EN

'OLIO

VERT

E DELL

E CON

ONDA

CALL

ANDO

ANE

A FERR

LAVR

RETT

NGO

PON

DE LE ERBE

DE LA SACA

CALL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

Dol

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

C. NI

VAN GIO

L’ARC

SAN LE

CAL

E DE CALL RUG

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

LLE

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ULI PRI

LLE

FOO RN O

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

DE CAL LE

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

SAN TA

CAM PO

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION CORTE

CAL

CAT

SAN

ARINI

FOSC

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

ICO

Can ale

. MIS

HET A

RAC

ICE

LLE

FEL

SAN

NTA

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

ADIN

LUN

CA LLE

TRE VIS AN

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

FON

TRA GHE TO

DEL

A ROS DEL

GR LE

INA TI

LIZ

DO ON SEC A’

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI CAR FOS RÀ TER

Moise

RIO

Palazzo Ducale

DEGLI

TERRÀ

GNESE

Salute

San Gregorio

RIO

SANT'A

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

MENTA

CANONI DE LA

VONI SCHIA RIVA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

FONDA

CALLE

MARCO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Museo Correr

VALLAR

CALLE

NANI

SAN

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE

ZZA

SAN

SIONE

AMEN

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

ET RS

RÀ

COLOM

IO MEG E DEL CALL

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

CAL

LIZ SA

GA LAR LE CAL

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LI LIPO TA E STRE

DURO RE DORSO SESTIE

San Gio

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

LARGA

ASCEN

FOND

LARGA

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

EDIO REM LE CAL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

E BIAN CALL

PIA

CALLE

MENTA

FRUTARIOLI

CORTE

OTTI

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEI CORTELL

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

DEL FORNO

ETT

CALLE

DE LE

Palazz

EOL

DEL TRAGHETTO

Palazzo Genovese

CALLE DEL BASTION

FONDAMENTA

VAPOR

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

DEL

ZUL IAN

C.DEI

CARRO

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

ETTI,

TI,

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

RIO

BINA

CALLE

FONTE

SALITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

O ROCC

ALBA E DEI CALL

RG LA LLE CA

CALLE

QUERIN

ZO MEZ CALL

E DI

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

RER

LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU A

NESI

A CI LU NT A SA TA

TIM

RIT

PO NE ZIO RE DI

I IN ZZ GA MA AI

CA TAS

Rio Del

San Giuliano

GIO ROLO DELL’O

O SAT MUS

I HIER SPEC

LE CAL

IA DAR SPA

LIO

CORTE TORRETTA

ALL CAV

ORS

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

SAN

ARIA MARZ

DEL

A ENT

DAM

SARTOR

CORTE BAROZZI

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

San Moisè

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

DEI

RIO

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

LUCATE LLO

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE

MOIS

CAP

BRI FAB

SAN

LICINI

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

FON

PISCI

XXII MARZO

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

RUBBI

MEZ O

DEI

C. DEL LARGA

GIAZZO

C. LARGA

CORTE

LE CAL

DEL

CALLE

E DEI CALL

TER

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

STR

CASTEL

CAMPO

CAL LE

BALO TE

LE CAL

CALLE

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

BRI FAB

ERIA SEL CAS

DEI

DEL

G. GALLIN

LIO

LE CAL

VERO

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

IOL

LARGA

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

SAN

lva

MINELL

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

CALL GABRI E

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

CORTE GRAGOLINA

ERIA

ERI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

IZA

CALLE

RTA

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

CALLE

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

C.DE

E C.

BOT

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

SALIZA

ONA

CALLE

Teatro Malibran

SALVAD OR

MAR ZARI A DEL

AZZ

DEI

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

WID

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

SAN

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

C. DEL

SABION

CAOTO

Santa Maria del Giglio

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

LAR

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

S.Canciano

C. DE LE COLONNE

NDE LOCA CALLE

SSIN

ASSA TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

Casa di Marco Polo

CORTE DEL

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

VER

CALLE

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

Rio

BON CAR

A LUC SAN

CALLE

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEG

San Salvador

DEL

LE CAL

San Fantin

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

SAL

BO BEM

RO TEAT LE CAL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

TEATRO

DEL

SAN

SALI ZZA DA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE LE CAL

RAMO

QUE

DOL

CIN

RIO

LARG A

MARCO

ETIE

RIOL

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

C. DEL

Rialto

OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

FRUTA

COCCO

NER COR

PIC

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

Sco

TIM

RIT

E VENIE

CAL

BARBA

CALLE

CAN

TOS

ZIO

HE BRIC FAB

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

ETTI MOR

ORE

ANG

DEI

PAR

E CALL

ttim a

CALL

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Teatro Carlo Goldoni E CALL

ari

ZEN

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Ponte di Rialto

CAF

Canal Grande

DEL FORNO

ENTA

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

RIO

ULI

STU

DEL

CHIES

SALIZADA

DAM

CALL

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DEL

E CALL

CALL

DELLA

UZZI

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

RINA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Maurizio

CALLE

REA

RUG

RAVA

CAL

CALLE

CAPP

DEI

TI OCA

TEA TR O

MAN

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

PRI

CAL LE

BOT EGH E

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

ENT A

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

Palazzo Grimani

AVV

NT'A

CAL

DEL

TER

C.SA

NANI

CATE

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO PISANI

. S.AND

DAM

San Silvestro

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

FOND

Santa Sofia

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

DEL

de ran

Palazzo Loredan

CALLE

FON

CAL

ion

ENTA

SAN

CAL

ETA

RUGH

CAL

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

RIO

. NARI

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

E CALL

oS taz

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUT I

SAN

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

CALLE

STU A

GALIZ

cin

DEI

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

ZEL

FOND

CRO SER A

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso

DON

FOSCARI

LE CAL

ISO

DEL

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAL

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DEI LAVRANE

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E CALL

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FISOLA

LARGA

BOT A

FORNO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

Sant’Aponal

DEL

E DE CALL

ZATTER

CHIESA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

S. Samuele

MENTA

DELLA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDA

CALLE

ERA

DA IZA SAL

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

IER

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

DE L

FAL

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

CAR

E DOL

CA’

CHI TODES

LON

CALL

CAL LE

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

C. DEI

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

S. Toma' SX

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

' VE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

LINI

al G

SESTIERE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

ENTA

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

Sant'Angelo

CAL

DAM

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D

S.Silvestro

Can

San Tomà

CALLE BERNARDO

TER

LE CAL

LE SAMUE

PON

RIO

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

RAMO

San Cassiano

RIN PEST

SANT

CAMPO APONAL

SERA

OGNI

DON SAN PER

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

E AL

L’AG NEL LA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Ca' Rezzonico

FON

TER

CAMPO SAN POLO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

A S. PISCIN

. DE

ZAT

CORTE DEL TEATRO

E CRO

FOND

NTA

SCA

Accademia

DE OGNISAN

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

San Barnaba

E DEL CALL

S. Basilio

DEI TIOZ

DE INC INI

DEL

CALL

ENTA

AME

NT AR

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

HETT

FONDAM

FOD

LET

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAL

TRAG

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

SER

CRO

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

E DEL

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

BESAG

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

100 m

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

DEI PUTI

IAN

DA SAN

CALL

AST

DORSODURO

CAL

SAN

CALLE

SEB

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

a de

rto

MADONA

E DE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DE LA

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

A ENT CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

CAL LE

RAMO

CALL

FOMO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

DAM

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

nde Canal Gra

Car

FON

DON

Santa Maria dei Carmini

ll'O

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

TTO

LAR

PRET

ALE

SAN POLO

GHE

del

OCHE

TRA

min

Rio

E ZANE

DEL

IAT

TOMÀ

TTO

E DEI

E TRON

ORE

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

CAMPO SAN STIN

TERÀ

SAN

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CALLE

TALO

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

C. DE

DIA

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CAL

RIO TERA’

E RENIE

DEL

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S.Stae

CAL

E LE

CALL

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

ESI

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

MEZ

San Rocco

SSA

LA TT

CALLE DELL'OLIO

CALL

o de

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RIELO

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

TOR

CIM

PAN

San Pantalon

NTA

Angelo Raffaele

TIN

DAR O

A SAN

NUOVO

USE

’

LORENZ

OLO

C. SAN

CALLE CASE NUOVE

tini

CALLE

NIC SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

CALL

BASEG

RIO

CALLE CONTARINA

DE L’OGIO

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

E C AN

La Maddalena

L’ISOLA

DE LA VIDA

CAL

FON

RAM

ete

CALLE

MENTA

RAMO

À D E

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

DEL

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

TA DE

LAC

SAL

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

AMEN

MATTA DI CA’

RAG

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

OTT

CALLE CAZZA

CERER

TERA’

CAL

DEI

CIM ESI

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI CALLE

CAL

ENT A MIN

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RUGA BELA

TER

S.Marcuola

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

BAR

MADON

CALLE DE LA LACA

PAZ CAM

DEI

CAL

A CALLE

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

RUGA VECCHIA

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URATI

TA PROC

San Marcuola

LAR

TA RIZZI

CAZZIO

AMEN

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

DEL REMER

Rio

Del

MENTA

AMEN

LUN

RAM

DAM

gaz

FONDA

FOND

San Nicola da Tolentino

FON

Rio

IERI

FOND

PENS

A OV

Rio Nuov

ACC

DEI

DEI AMAI

RIO

CAMPIELLO

BIAS

BAR

LIS

TAB

TERÀ

A RIVA

CAM

CALLE

Miser

EONARDO

San Leonardo

RIO

NUO

'ANDR

CHI

E NUO

ENT

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

CAS

della

icordi

SAN LEONARDO

RIO

Soranzo Cappello

RTE

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

San Simeone Profeta

DAM

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

SANT

TABAC

HIO

C. LAVADOR

TERÀ

ICA

CAL

TA FABBR

PIAZZALE ROMA

RIO

AMEN

People Mover Venezia

PAPADOPOLI

FOND

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

Rio

CALL

nde l Gra Cana

Giardino di Palazzo

NTIN

'AN

TOLE

FONDAMENTA

Sant'Andrea

. DEI

FON

TER

TÀ ER LIB

RIO

CALLE

DE Ponte degli Scalzi

Ferrovia

Ponte della Costituzione

A mixture of history S Aand N T A legend, CROCE all the secrets of Venetian cuisine.

Discover artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops.

AG SP

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Riva de Biaso

AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

P.le Roma

A ST

FON

People Mover Venezia

I CALLE ORSETT

San Geremia

O ITTI

RÀ

LLE

CAT

ALZ

MER

EZIO

CALL

I SC

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

48 IN SEARCH OF DIR

LO EL RI E LL CA

Rio

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

RO SA PE E CA

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Santa Maria di Nazareth

MIS

VECCHIO

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A E M

ER LE P

A DELL

CAL

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

ONN

» MAP PAGES 62-63 FO

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

MAD

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

ENTA

People Mover Venezia

DAM

MASEN

CRI STO

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FON

DEL

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

DAM

CanaENTA CAN le di NAR Cann EGI O aregio

GIO

INE

LAR

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CALL

CAL LE

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CAMPO SAFFA

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Loved by tourists, the island is famous for its colourful houses and handcrafted lace.

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The monumental Rialto Bridge and its surroundings.

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St.Mark's Square and Palazzo Ducale with the light of a winter dusk. © Shutterstock

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Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer

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A pick of large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries.

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’

EREMIT

This month's round-up of shows, PORTO MARGHERA art exhibitions, and music. GIFT IDEAS Our pick of the best seasonal trends

FONDA

OBIL

NUOVE

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6 HOT DATES

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Winter holidays in the lagoon

ISOLA CAMPALTO

DELLE

DEAR SANTA, PLEASE TAKE ME TO VENICE

Contents

CALLE

YOUR

CI TY GUIDE

MENTA

www.where-venice.com

FONDA

Venice

DECEMBER 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE C Y

Indulge in a typical Venetian 'cicheto' experience enhanced by the scenic luxury of the Danieli Bistro

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A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

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ElenaBinda, Binda,Romena Romena Brugnerotto, Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena www.rominvenice.com), P.K.Stefania Daviddi,Vida Simona P.K. Daviddi, ElenaSimona Peverata, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Minero (editor) (editor) FabioLancini Lancini(art (art direction), direction), Giulia Giulia Minero redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: File © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by- Dmitry Goloub Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo,Renna, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Isa Faleschini, Mailhac, "Welcome Rachele Renna, Paola ZannoniMarta (coordination to Italy") Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, Paola Grilli SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR COORDINATOR Paola Grilli ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata

(maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Silvia Maggi CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Senatore WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPAROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH Although publisher has made PRINTED BYthe GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every effort to include copyright credits, in the eventPONTE of thereFORMELLO, being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would LOCALITÀ 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published inIN theITALY next issue.

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

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Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction whole or in part Published ininassociation withis strictly prohibited. Where® magazine and the where® Published in association with logo are registered Where® magazine trademarks of®Morris and the where Visitorare Publications. Morris Visitor Publications logo registered

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IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your aa tourist is aa privilege privilege and and an anart. art.The Theglorious glorioushistory historyofof tourist in in Venice Venice is the Serenissima left stunning examples of architecture throughout the Serenissima left stunning examples of architecture throughout the rich cultural cultural heritage. heritage.This Thisheritage heritage the city, city, handing down a rich encompasses of small small yet yet fundamental fundamentaldecrees. decrees.Venice Venice encompasses a number of isis an and deserves deservesto tobe betreated treatedwith withrespect respect an ‘elegant ‘elegant grand dame’ and by obeying the protocols of good behaviour. Where® Venice has by obeying of good behaviour. Where® Venice has drawn handbook of of‘do’s ‘do’s and and‘don’ts’ ‘don’ts’to toensure ensurethat that drawn up up a small handbook visitors fully enjoy enjoy the thecity citywhile whilehonouring honouringitsits visitors have have a chance to fully people, monuments monuments and local people, local traditions. traditions. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c om 3

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town

Palazzo Ducale

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as

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www.potpourri.it

San Lorenzo

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themerchantofvenice.com

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You can find it in your hotel: ask your concierge. Getting around

Tourist Information

Police T: 113 Ambulance T: 118 Fire brigade T: 115 Traffic Police T: 041 2747070 Lost and Found on Vaporetti T: 041 2722179 24-hour pharmacy: check the display at all pharmacies.

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www.where-venice.com

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia.it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711.

International Marco Polo di Tessera Airport (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Don’t forget our free maps! Airports

NEW CITY MAP BY WHERE®

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Aeroporto G. Nicelli Lido di Venezia T. +39 334 786 0653

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17/10/17 11:47 Senza titolo-6 1

Spazio VENINI - VENEZIA

Mappa Where Venice 86x209.indd 1

WWW.ROCCA1794.COM

www.venini.com Spazio VENINI - MURANO

S. Marco, Piazzetta Leoncini, 314 - 30124 - tel. + 39 041 5224045

Scuola Grande di San Rocco VENEZIA | San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo) | Tel. +39 041 296.03.21 | c/o Stazione Santa Lucia - Fondamenta Santa Lucia n. 20 Tel. +39 041 524.64.45

Fondamenta Vetrai, 50 - 30141- tel. + 39 041 2737254

boggi.com

- Rule 67 -

A GENTLEMAN DOES NOT TALK. JUST ACTS. #BoggiGentlemanStyle

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4  a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

CALLE ORTI

Hundertwasser' Garden

MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63

PHOTO © MATTEO DE FINA

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

DECEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

6 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

DECEMBER

ART

28 7

MYSTICAL SYMBOLISM ON VIEW

The first museum exhibition dedicated to the art of the ‘Salons OCTOBER JANUARY de la Rose+Croix’ organized in 2017 2018 Paris between 1892 and 1897 by author, critic, and Rosicrucian Joséphin Péladan. Images of femmes fragiles and fatales, androgynous creatures, chimeras, and incubi are the key themes of the works displayed. Featuring highlights from the Salons, the Guggenheim exhibition includes approximately forty works by a cross section of artists – some familiar, others less so – and invites a fresh look at and new scholarship on the legacies of late nineteenth-century Symbolist art. Free guided tours every day at 3.30pm. Mystical Symbolism: The Salon de la Rose+Croix in Paris, 1892-1897. www.guggenheim-venice.it

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 7

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MUSIC

18 19

HAUNTING NOTES

► On 18 and 19 December, St. DECEMBER DECEMBER Mark’s Basilica hosts Venice’s eagerly-awaited traditional Christmas concert. The event, which commences at 8pm on both evenings, is organized by Fondazione Teatro La Fenice. The Cappella Marciana Soloists, conducted by Marco Gemmani, will pay tribute to the 450th anniversary of Claudio Monteverdi’s birth with a repertoire of 17th-century sacred music. A unique opportunity to experience the emotion of a sung Christmas mass in the Venetian basilica, reminiscent of those held 400 years ago.

Christmas Concert in Saint Mark’s basilica. “Ad Vesperum Assumptionis Sanctae Mariae Virginis”. www.teatrolafenice.it

TRADITION

10 DECEMBER

JEWISH CULTURE AND KOSHER GOODIES ► An expert guide will accompany visitors on a tour dedicated to discovering the Ghetto, the oldest in Europe, and a city landmark imbued with an old-world atmosphere. The tour includes a visit to three synagogues, the spiritual and artistic heart of the Ghetto, as well as one of the ancient pawn shop, the Banco Rosso or Red bench, with the screening of a documentary about its history. At the end of the tour, visitors will be offered a kosher aperitivo with an explanation about Jewish-Venetian cuisine, one of the most elaborate and cosmopolitan in Europe. A convivial toast (L’Chaim!) with prosecco and cichetti. Ticket: €39.

L’Chaim! Tour of the Jewish Ghetto. The tour starts at 3.30pm from the Jewish Museum in Campo del Gheto Novo (Cannaregio). venicebejondtheghetto.com 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

OUT OF TOWN

4 7 FEBRUARY 2017

JANUARY 2018

DISCOVERING ITALIAN HISTORY This unique exhibition showcases a selection of ancient archaeological treasures from Puglia, unearthed in the 19th century when European aristocrats began to take an avid interest in the finds and artifacts of Greek and Roman civilizations including vases, gold relics, jewelry, armour and paintings. In addition to the above, those visiting the museum will be treated to a surprise. Thanks to the diffusion of several iconic scents, the exhibition will take visitors on an olfactory journey, immersing them in a sensory experience that conjures up the settings and atmospheres of ancient times. The Amber of the Princess. Gallerie d’Italia-Palazzo Leoni Montanari, Vicenza. www.gallerieditalia.com

DECEMBER PHOTOGRAPHY

22 25

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE THE NEOREALIST OBJECTIVE OF BISCHOF

▼ A major anthology dedicated to Werner Bischof, one of the most important photographers of the 20th century and SEPTEMBER FEBRUARY a founding member of the Magnum agency. 2018 The 250 photographs featured in the exhibition, curated by his son, provide a comprehensive overview of Bischof’s trips to several of the world’s most remote corners, including India, Japan, Korea, Indochina, Panama, Chile and Peru. In particular, the images focus on the contrasts between industrial development and poverty, business and spirituality, modernity and tradition. A section of 20 unreleased images highlight Italy seen through the ‘neo-realist’ lens of the author. The exhibition is set against the spectacular backdrop of the Casa dei Tre Oci, a splendid example of early 20th-century Venetian architecture and a building which has been declared a monument of historical and artistic interest in the Veneto region.

Werner Bischof. Photographs 1934-1954. Casa dei Tre Oci. www.treoci.org

JEWELS

9 3 SEPTEMBER JANUARY 2018

THE PRECIOUS JEWELS OF THE MAHARAJA

► For the first time in Italy, Venice will host the renowned exhibition of Indian gems and jewelry from the Al Thani collection, whose pieces span the 16th through the 20th century. Showcasing over 270 precious objects, the exhibition at Palazzo Ducale explores five hundred centuries of jewelry production associated with, or inspired by, the Indian subcontinent. The collection features stunning pieces created for the nobility at the peak of the Mughal empire, the rich commissions of Maharajas under the British Raj, the celebrated Indian-inspired designs of Cartier and innovative creations of the 21st century that either use historic Indian gems, or are inspired by traditional forms of jewelry.

Treasures of the Mughals and the Maharajas. The Al Thani Collection. Palazzo Ducale-Sala dello Scrutinio. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it

DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica ► 2018 ◄

JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January) > Myung-Whun Chung is to conduct the 15th edition of the New Year’s Concert. Regata delle Befane > 6 January FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice (27 January-13 February) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. On Saturday 27, the “Festa Veneziana” (Carnival Grand Opening). APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial (28 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale Architettura 2018 (26 May-25 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 16th International Architecture Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara. Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 13 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. Feast of San Piero de Casteo (24 June-1 July) Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (15 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (29 August-8 September) > The 75th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia. Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (2 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. The Venice Glass Week (9-16 September) OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (20-27 October) Venicemarathon (21 October) NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice - Concert Season Opening (2 November ) Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day. Teatro La Fenice - Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November)

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 9

WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Festive lights in Venice Spending the holiday season in Venice is a brilliant idea! In December the canals, ‘palazzi’, façades and bridges of this unique city are lit up with thousands of lights whose reflections glimmer in the water.

BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

From 9 December and for the following four weekends, you can enjoy magical moments of Christmas shopping at the ‘MCV XMAS Market’ set against the backdrop of Palazzo Zenobio, a magnificent late 17th-century Venetian palazzo and the headquarters of the Armenian College. A winter wonderland where visitors of all ages can soak up the festive atmosphere, browse the stalls and purchase local specialties and high-quality artisanal products.

10 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

xplore the streets of the centre, around St. Mark’s Square or along the Grand Canal and be enchanted by their atmosphere and beauty. During the Christmas holidays or at New Year, the city’s attractions and museums are not as crowded as they are during summer. You can walk along the ‘calli’- in some areas, the streets are almost deserted – or indulge in a hot chocolate or a glass of wine without elbowing your way through the crowds. The city also offers the best of shopping, food and typical Venetian holiday traditions to make your stay truly unforgettable. CELEBRATING CHRISTMAS TRADITIONS For some years, the ‘sestiere’ of Dorsoduro has hosted My Christmas Venice: a unique display of lights featuring Christmas-inspired works of art by internationally renowned artists: an incredible open-air museum beneath the stars. The events are scheduled to run from 2 December to 7 January 2018. Throughout December, Food Village takes centre stage in Campo San Vio. The event attracts locals and tourists alike and is a go-to destination to sample a cup of hot chocolate or a glass of vin brulé, a traditional winter beverage served hot and made from wine, sugar, aromatic spices and cloves. Ca’ Zenobio, a late 17th-century Venetian ‘palazzo’ and the headquarters of the Armenian college, hosts a Christmas Market in December, selling high-quality artisanal products. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 11

WHERE NOW | FOCUS

NEW YEAR’S EVE EVENTS And New Year’s Eve? There’s nothing as unique as spending New Year’s Eve in one of the most romantic cities on Earth! Friends and relatives gather for dinner and each guest is usually asked to prepare a special dish. In the Veneto area, as the clock strikes midnight, guests are served a dish of ‘musetto’ and lentils. The latter, served in abundance, are believed to bring good luck and prosperity in the coming year. Over the years, innovative New Year’s Eve options have been devised for those wishing to do something unusual. These include dining at a luxury hotel, celebrating on a boat or ringing in the New Year in St. Mark’s Square. How should you spend the holiday season in Venice? Take it easy and get up late on 31 December because tradition demands that you stay up until the wee hours of the morning. Enjoy a large breakfast, and then head to an artisanal boutique to buy something red to wear in the evening, another Italian New Year’s tradition. You can either opt for a piece of jewelry made with Venice’s famous beads at

Piedàterre 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

THE MAGICAL ATMOSPHERE OF THE LAGOON In December, Venice delights locals and tourists with its magical, intimate atmosphere. The twinkling fairy lights of its mist-shrouded ‘calli’ are reflected in the waters of its canals, making this city even more romantic. On the contrary, the dazzle and sparkle of lights inside its ‘palazzi’ are simply gorgeous and can be enjoyed during a festive concert at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro (below) or while shopping at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi (below right). For those wishing to immerse themselves in local traditions, an absolute ‘must’ is a visit to the Chiesa della Salute whose aisle is strewn with a sumptuous carpet of flowers.

Venetian Dreams (www.marisaconvento.it) where you’ll find a vast choice of Venetian coral beads, including necklaces and earrings, or even bunches of grapes made with 12 pearls which can be worn as brooches. Alternatively, at Piedàterre you can purchase a pair of Venice’s famous ‘furlane’ – the shoes used by gondoliers – to wear on New Year’s Eve (www.piedaterre-venice.com). The shop is located at the foot of the Rialto Bridge. If you’re thinking of acquiring a piece of jewelry or a luxury accessory, head to T Fondaco dei Tedeschi (also located near the Rialto Bridge) where you’ll find a fabulous assortment of bags and shoes by the world’s best international brands

(www.dfs.com). Afterwards you can drop into AMO, the fabulous restaurant at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi headed by the Alajmo brothers (www.alajmo.it). If you prefer something lighter, because you don’t want to spoil your festive dinner, head to one of the city’s numerous ‘bacari’ to indulge in a typical Venetian ‘cicchetti’ experience. If you’re looking for a special perfume to wear, your go-to destination is The Merchant of Venice, whose flagship store is located in Campo San Fantin, just steps from Teatro La Fenice (www.themerchantofvenice.it): the brand epitomizes the Venetian art of perfumery, whose roots are steeped in the history of the essences that Venetian merchants imported from the East. A luxury line featuring a wide range of exclusive Eau de Parfums and Eau

FONDACO FACADE © PHOTO DFS 3

Visitors can enjoy a breathtaking view from the ‘altana’ (wooden roof terrace) of the Hotel Splendid Venice. A perfect place to ring in the New Year with a champagne toast.

de Toilettes: the perfume bottles and holders are true works of art created by master glassblowers from Murano. ART AND MUSIC TO WELCOME IN THE NEW YEAR In the afternoon, why not indulge in a spot of art and visit a museum? Although the city offers numerous options, we recommend the breathtaking exhibition at the Gallerie dell’Accademia, featuring masterpieces by Canova. Titled ‘Canova, Hayez and Cicognara: The Last Glory of Venice’, the exhibition showcases a stunning selection of Neoclassical works displayed together for this special occasion (www.gallerieaccademia.org). To get into the festive spirit, plan to go to a New Year’s concert, held by I Musici

Veneziani, starting at 5.30pm at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro. This year’s concert will be enhanced by a special event: a classical concert featuring arias by Mozart, Verdi, Galuppi, Lehar e Strauss performed by an ensemble of 14 musicians and singers (www.imusiciveneziani.com). IT ALL STARTS WITH A HUGE DINNER The best hotels in the city, as well as local restaurants and bistros, offer a mouthwatering selection of traditional dishes that are well worth trying. A tip for those celebrating New Year’s Eve in Italy for the first time: since the celebrations go on until midnight, dinner usually starts at around 8 or 9pm, so gear up for a late-night event. Where should you go for a traditional New

Year’s Eve dinner? There are multiple options. You can indulge in a black-tie dinner at one of the city’s luxury hotels, including the StarHotel Splendid Venice, which offers a traditional fish-based menu and the option of watching the fireworks from the ‘altana’ (a typical Venetian wooden roof terrace), while sipping champagne, sampling finger food and listening to great music. The Hotel Danieli offers several delightful culinary options: a Christmas Eve Dinner, a Christmas Lunch, a New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner, a New Year’s Brunch at the Terrazza Danieli Restaurant (www.terrazzadanieli.com/ en/festive-season), a New Year’s Eve DJ set Lounge Cocktail Party in the Danieli Lounge and a tasting menu at the Danieli Bistro (see page 56). There’s something for everyone! w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

WHERE NOW | FOCUS What about spending New Year’s Eve in a palazzo that was once owned by an aristocratic family? Ca’ Sagredo, a magnificent 5-star hotel overlooking the Grand Canal, offers a candle-lit dinner at its prestigious Salone del Portego (www.casagradohotel.com). Those wishing to experience an authentic Venetian-style dinner with a breathtaking view of the city can indulge in an elegant dinner aboard a boat while savouring typical gourmet cuisine and enjoying the panoramic sights of the Lagoon. ‘San Marco Events and Tours’ offers visitors a romantic, candle-lit cruise through the canals, accompanied by great music and a traditional Venetian menu, enhanced by a selection of fine wines. Visitors can either toast in the New Year aboard the boat or disembark in St. Mark’s Square with glasses and a bottle of champagne provided by the cruise company. This romantic cruise departs from the Riva delle Zattere and then crosses the Giudecca and the Lido before heading back to St. Mark’s Square for the umissable champagne toast at midnight (www.rivieradelbrenta.biz). BENVENUTO 2018! After a typical dinner, the longest night of the year ends on a high note in the ‘sestiere’ of San Marco where a beautiful fireworks display will light up the sky. If you don’t want

to miss the show, make sure to head to Riva degli Schiavoni, Riva Ca’ di Dio, Riva San Biagio, or Riva dei Sette Martiri to enjoy a front-row view. Alternately, make a beeline for St. Mark’s Square to experience the annual ‘Love’ event, where thousands of lovers welcome the arrival of the new year with a highly symbolic kiss, followed by a auspicious toast with a glass of bubbly. On the following day, an absolute ‘must’ is the New Year’s Concert at Teatro La Fenice. The concert, conducted by Myung-Whun Chung, starts at 11.15am and is broadcast live on Italian television (www.teatrolafenice.it). The first part of the concert is purely orchestral, while the second part, featuring soloists and a choir, ends with the chorus ‘Va' pensiero’ from Nabucco and the ‘Libiamo ne’ lieti calici’ toast from Giuseppe Verdi’s Traviata. If you’re feeling adventurous and want to experience a unique happening, head to the beach of the Lido di Venezia to enjoy the traditional New Year’s day event. As the clock strikes midday, fearless bathers race to the sea to take their first dip of the year followed by a regenerating lunch on the Lido’s Blue Moon beach. Whatever traditions you delight in, wherever you come from, or whatever the reason for your trip, warm greetings to you for the festive season and best wishes for a peaceful, happy New Year!

GLAMOUR PARTY Hotel Metropole’s elegant annual charity gala is back again this year. On Saturday 16 December, the ‘Sparkling December Cocktail & Dinner Party’, organized by the hotel's owner and general manager Gloria Beggiato, will offer participants a chance to make a donation and support scientific research (Foundation for Research on Cystic Fibrosis).

Just a two-hour drive from Venice, Cortina is a must-visit destination especially at Christmas when the town is shrouded in snow and decked out with Christmas lights. Skiers can choose from among a number of slopes including the piste on which the Italian winter Olympics were held in 1956 or the Faloria piste whose refuge offers a breathtaking view over the Dolomites. Ski equipment can be hired from Jgor (www.jgorskiandmore.com). After an active day on the slopes, there’s no better way to relax and rejuvenate than at a Spa (a popular option is the Erato Wellness Spa at the Hotel Bellevue (www.bellevuecortina.com/it/spa). Encroaching twilight is the signal that it’s time for an aperitivo. The resort’s go-to destination is the Grill del Posta (www.delaposte.it) featuring a typical Ampezzo-style stube. Cortina offers guests a selection of top-notch restaurants. Among these, standouts for traditional fare include El Tulà (www.toula.it), Villa Oretta, whose menu features an unusual combination of mountain cuisine infused with typical Venetian flavours (www.villaoretta.com) or Hotel Alaska whose prestigious restaurant is headed by renowned chef Claudio Sfiller. For the best hot chocolate in town, an absolute must is Pasticceria Lovat in the centre of town. (www.cortinadolomiti.eu/IT/bar-lovat).

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A two-day break in the ‘pearl of the Dolomites’

www.potpourri.it San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810 Tel. +39 041 5221332 Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996

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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highend department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

◄ ARNOLDO & BATTOIS Inspired by haute couture working techniques, the brand’s elegant collections, featuring both clothing and accessories, are made and developed in Venice. The designers’ iconic ‘Elefante’ bag makes a splash with its whimsical, undeniably chic shape. www.arnoldoebattois.com

GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed! ®

► VENINI The new Venini Fall/Winter 2017/18 collection expresses all the power of the colours of nature. Featuring full, rounded shapes, the ‘Gusci’ vases pictured here are blown and handcrafted using the ‘Murrine’ technique to form a shiny coralcoloured outer shell. www.venini.com

FOR CHRISTMAS ▼ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE The Murano Exclusive Collection combines the highest olfactory aspirations with the stylistic elegance of blue and gold coloured glass bottles. The ‘Liberty’ Eau de Parfum Concentrée is a mystical and fascinating fragrance. www.themerchantofvenice.com

▲ BORSALINO A masterpiece of Made in Italy, the brand's stylish ‘Audrey’ hat comes with a 8.5cm brim. The hat is crafted in velvet-effect felt, obtained from a mixture of rabbit fibres. A detail of style: the hat features a grosgrain twisted hatband embossed with the golden Borsalino logo. www.borsalino.com

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▼ SALVINI A silver thread twisted on itself conjures up the aesthetics of nautical ropes, evoking masculine strength. The result is the ‘Mr. Twist’ collection where rings, cross necklaces, bracelets and key rings become distinctive elements of the male personality. www.salvini.com

► RUBELLI Established in Venice in 1858, this legendary Venetian brand is renowned for its exquisite home textiles and unique design items. Collaborations with famous Italian artists in the 1920s and 1930s, including Gio Ponti and Vittorio Zecchin, resulted in the creation of fabrics based on the age-old technique of handloomed velvet. www.rubelli.com

◄ LOCHERBER MILANO The new ‘Venetiae’ home fragrance is a design object and a fragrance dedicated to the Lagoon city and its timehonoured traditions. Its elegant blue hand-painted bottle featuring an original ‘Briccole’ stopper make this gift even more precious. Available at Profumeria Franco (Rialto Bridge). www.locherbermilano.com www.profumeriafranco.com

▼ MONTBLANC This ‘Tropical Brown’ Special Edition ballpoint pen is a part of the Rouge et Noir Heritage Collection’ celebrating the 110th anniversary of Montblanc’s pioneering spirit. The pen features an exquisite brown lacquered tropical barrel and is characterized by a goldcoated serpent clip with garnets set in the eyes. www.montblanc.com

► INTIMISSIMI There is never a more perfect time to wear red then during the Christmas festivities! Add a touch of sophisticated elegance to your wardrobe with this dazzling red silk slip enhanced with lace details. it.intimissimi.com

► ROLEX The new ‘Cellini Moonphase’ features an exclusive display of the lunar cycle and a 39mm case in 18ct Everose gold. A model in which the complication of the moon phases adds a touch of magic to the entire ‘Cellini’ collection. www.rolex.com www.salvadori-venezia.eu

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FACADE_FONDACO_BY_LORIS_CECCHINI_T_FONDACO_DEI_TEDESCHI @DFS

SHOPPING

The luxury heart of Venice

panning 7,000 square meters, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the very first DFS retail space in Europe, features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, wines and spirits, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1228, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store

is used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium is home to AMO, the exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking!

FONDACO FOOD && GIFT HALL - VENETIAN GIFTS - PHOTO MARTA BUSO @DFS

Luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof.

Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, this is ‘the’ go-to address for a one-stop shopping experience.

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>> T Fondaco dei Tedeschi Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Artistic glass in Murano

Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop). Map D3

Fanny Gloves

Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).

Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws and all the glass workshops were moved to Murano. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. During the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal and their works are true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano today has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini).

Map F5

Giovanna Zanella

For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo

A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES

A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.

T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHITfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIORwww.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARIwww.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

The pearl is the star player of the ‘Sogno d’Oriente’ collection by SALVINI. A symbol of beauty and perfection, in this necklace it is enhanced by the dazzling light of a diamond. 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

CHOPARDwww.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTIwww.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLAwww.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MICHAEL KORSwww.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5

BURBERRY’s new square ‘Satchel’ comes in dark teal alligator with hand-stitched details, a contrast-coloured crossbody strap and soft nappa leather interiors.

PRADAwww. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

Sizing

RENÉ CAOVILLA www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038.

Women clothes

Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER ATELIER www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

MAX MARA’s unmistakable style is expressed to perfection in this caramel ensemble for the Fall-Winter 2017/18 season. A classic design characterized by the beauty, tailoring and femininity marking the comeback of velvet.

IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

EUR 32 34 36 38 40 42 44

US 1 2 4 6 8 10 12

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Women shoes IT 36 37 38 39 40 41

EUR 36 37 38 39 40 41

US 6 6.5 7.5 8.5 9 9.5

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8

Men clothes IT 50 52 54 56 58 60

EUR 46 48 50 52 54 56

IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

EUR 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

US 36 38 40 42 44 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

Men shoes US 7.5 8 8.5 9 10.5 11.5 12

UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 23

SHOPPING La Parigina

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

24 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina

Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

René Caovilla

In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

SV Lab

As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta

Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer

its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta. com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano

An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Marina Rinaldi

ARenowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. Merceria Orologio. T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì

Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickknacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior

Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor).

SHOPPING

JAEGERLECOULTRE See page 26.

Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi

The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet

With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highstreet favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

COIN EXCELSIOR

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

See page 24.

Palmanova Outlet Village

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical

See page 26.

sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet

A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces,

In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.

www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148

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SHOPPING 2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

IWC Schaffhausen

Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PHOTO ©IOPIUSTUDIO.COM

Jaeger-LeCoultre

A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www. jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Nardi Venezia

An exclusive perfume collection from The Merchant of Venice The most exclusive collections of Venetian artistic perfumery are inspired by the tradition of the Serenissima, its craftsmanship and its age-old trade with the Far East. Exemplifying the ideal combination of the art of perfumery with the artistic glass production of Murano, the Murano Art Collection combines the highest olfactory aspirations with the stylistic elegance of handmade vases crafted in a limited edition by master glassblowers: the fragrances are created with the most valuable and premiere quality raw materials, and further enhanced by a very high perfume content that guarantees an exceptional diffusive power and persistence. The combination of these two sough-after products offers customers a unique fragrance and an elegant, exclusive home-décor object. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.

made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia

This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www. boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

26 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

Damiani

A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo

The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice

For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-

A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Omega

Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794

The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

I C O

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

V O LT

T E R best in design. Open daily beauty, style and the very À BA RBA F AMO D TA R IO EL MO 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. SanR UMarco, 1336R(Calle RA L Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

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CORTE DEL ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in POZETO DE ORO Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of FO Ca' Pesaro N Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia RA alleria Internazionale VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the DA CA L C O RT E LE San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna V B ATA G I A AR highest diamond certificates. Open Mon-Sat VA IS Ca’quality D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti CORTESE CAMPIELLO 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadoriSTELLA CORTE NOVA Ca’ Macana venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Santi Apostoli CAMPIELLO One of the oldest and finest mask making Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI OZ GAB LE DELLA CASON theatre, film Cà d'Oro workshops in Venice for Carnival, Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori R IE ZI LI Light and stylish, these ‘Victoria’ drop production and parties. Ca’ MacanaS.Canciano crafts authentic Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 Ospedale SS. Giovann CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica earrings by POMELLATO accentuate the N N CANC I A N O Venetian D R IO C A L L handmade masks in the sameS Away that 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso AN E M LE Luterana ID S C delicacy ofUOLrose gold with an inlaid floral E artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a CALLE W stop). Map F5 CAMPO pattern in black, white and red. decoration in order to ensure that each mask is NOVA S.MARIA CAMPO DELLA CAL Tag Cassiano Heuer LE San LAR unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold PESCARIA GA N ZI A N G. G N CA Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones ALL DA SA IN A conferences and courses on the history of Venetian S A LI ZA Santa Maria RI CAMPO O in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker DE Basilica masks and traditional mask-making techniques. in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in dei Santa SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli IR to master luxury sports BECARIE chronographs with an Sanmasks Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC Their were featured in important film CA Croce, the C A LLSpice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) O LL E LI CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’sCESARE constant Grisostomo CA EC NVenice BATTISTI O CAL productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley LL and the World FO ofRSANTI space at the Marco Polo A’ LE C ED MU GIOVANNI GIÀ AST EL quest for innovation, excellence, performance and ELL TI DELLA I A Kubrick and in operas including those staged by BO Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the CAMPO CA LL E the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. DE10.30am-7.30pm. Tues-Sun San Marco, Chiesa 1895 (Campo SAN GIACOMETO LE ER dell’Ospe BE Red BullDRacing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. CA CORTE SECONDA and Courses: www.camacana.com. Maskmaking EL MP San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA IEL www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada NS LO BA RB AR ON and Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 di RialtoDorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: IA DE LE DE Casa diDorsoduro, Marco 3172 Polo TO LE San Moisè). T:I 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto CA Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ RA MP O CAMPO AN Map F4 stop). Venini CAMPIELLO E RIALTO Rezzonico stop). Map D4 Fontego DEL SOL NUOVO An artistic space, where you rediscover all the dei Tedeschi Tiffany & Co. O The Merchant of Venice elegance and sophistication of the exquisite AN V CA RA C. D Lin L L Founded in 1837 New York, Tiffany & Co. is a Sant’Aponal E ED EL F D C .M EL ONT TA The prestigious creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from P IO E G O stand-alone boutique of thisA RT IN HE MB Ponte UG E O N R world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in GO D. P C A L of Perfumery in brand which represents the ‘Art Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, SAN GIOFOND LE G ALL SA CAMPO di Rialto CORTE E IA CAMPO N ® Z CORTE LIZ ZO VA AM Setting has been known as the DO 1886, the Tiffany TREVISAN NN EN CAMPO DEL ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO I LA TA Venice’ZADAisPIO housed in the former, mid-17th centuryDEL to further their knowledge LP VOLTO or those whose want PRESTRIN TE E RA D CAMPO NO ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s X E LL apothecary of San Fantin, located about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, SANjust LIO steps from CA Rialto CAMPIELLO legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic S A L décor and meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA DA modernSAN collections, including the elegant, minimalist FONDAMENTA SAN SILVESTRO LONI . DE L IO ornamentationCin wood and terracotta, L walnut, PRETI Mon-SatDEI10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. GAL IAZZ O creations designed by Elsa Peretti andFontego the brightly- CALLE L Santa MariaFondamenta Vetrai, CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Venetian ‘palazzi’. T: 041 5224045. Other location: AR reflect the typical style of ancient C. LA RGA GA CORTE DEL Santa Maria coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Dolfin Manin MA Formosa Palazzo BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO ZZ Merchant Palazzo Rava The not only a line of products CORTE T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or 47 (Murano). SABIONof Venice is CAMPO IN I DEL MONDO della Fava Tiffany aCAMPOIELLO destination for those seeking C. DE DE LA FAVA Grimani Rialto spectacular CORTE NUOVO L CALI but a wider project which includes a concept store DE LA PASINA CE San Marco stops). Map F4 MA RZ (Palazzo Cavalli) SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione

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PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

VENETIANS

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

Eredi Jovon

Eredi Jovon's cameo

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked

28 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di

Piedàterre

Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5

ADVERTORIAL

OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.

NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Map E2

www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.

OTTICA MANUELA Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Map E4 San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268

OFFICINA BERNARDI The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Map F5

www.officinabernardi.com Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

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VENETIANS

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

Galleria Contini

PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

30 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

Newcomers? Coinciding with the launch of the Biennale, Venice’s gallery scene has been further enriched by the opening of a new branch of Galerie Alberta Pane. The new, 300-square-meter space, a former carpentry shop turned art gallery, will create an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery will allow artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations and will offer artist workshops and talks on contemporary art as part of its programs (Dorsoduro 2403/h, www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer

Galerie Alberta Pane. Christian Fogarolli, Project of Phantom Model of Prof. Chr. Aeby.

SHOPPING

has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com).

Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its indepth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www.berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com).

Galleria L'Occhio. Tobia Ravà, 948 vortice di pace.

Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).

Bugno Art Gallery

OhMyBlue. Liisa Hashimoto, Leaf Garden ring.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.

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VENETIANS

Top antiques

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

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Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Antichità San Samuele

Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Alessandro Zoppi

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Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Ca' Nova

Franco Dell'Orto

Antichità Zanutto w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33

VENETIANS

ADVERTORIAL

BUGNO ART GALLERY Since it first opened in 1991, in addition to supporting Venetian artistic movements, the gallery has also co-operated with well-known international contemporary artists. It currently collaborates with the Archives of Armando Pizzinato and Mario Deluigi. In 2004, besides art, it also began to focus on photography with renowned Italian photographers. In 2016, it enlarged its spaces and in 2017 it opened a new showroom at the JW Marriott in Venice. Map E4 www.bugnoartgallery.com San Marco, 1996/d. T: 041 5231305

ELISABETTA ZANUTTO Raised in a family of antique dealers but also artists and sculptors, Elisabetta Zanutto’s passion for art was instilled at an early age. After honing her skills as a restorer, she took her passion for Venetian art (from its lagoon to male and female figures) to new heights, in an ongoing search for visionary, ephemeral subjects. Map E5

www.elisabettazanutto.it San Marco, 3287 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 369 4276226

MELORI & ROSENBERG Established in 1996 and located in Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, Melori & Rosenberg was the first gallery to exhibit contemporary art in Venice’s Jewish Ghetto. The sole Italian representative of Luigi Rocca’s artwork (one of the world’s bestloved and most widely appreciated hyperrealist painters), the Gallery also showcases a carefully chosen selection of works by other well-known Italian and international artists. Map D2 www.melori-rosenberg.com Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 2750039

ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265. More info: www.where-venice.com 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

VENETIANS

ADVERTORIAL

BAC ART STUDIO After experimenting in different artistic works at different locations, the studio recently relocated to Calle delle Botteghe where, in addition to displaying valuable collector’s items in glass, ceramics and porcelain, it also features contemporary paintings and sculptures. Other offshoots include a graphics ‘workshop’, the production of numbered photographs, an art gallery and an ‘editorial’ section. Map E4 www.bacart.com San Marco, 3451 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2412898

LA SALIZADA GALLERIA Specializing in historic photography, and opened in 2011 by Alberto De Giulio, it hosts works originating from several of Italy’s most important historical archives, including the Florence-based Fratelli Alinari Archives of Photographic Works. A heritage dating from 1852 to the present, interwoven with contemporary photographic exhibitions, works by established and emerging international artists as well as the sale of original period photographs and reproductions. Map E4 www.lasalizada.it San Marco, 3448 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2410723

EG ARTE With its offer of contemporary art, Eros Gasparini, the owner of EG Arte, aims to preserve the authenticity of art. In addition to showcasing paintings, sculptures and photography, the space also doubles as an artisanal workshop for the creation of jewelry but also glass and ceramic pieces. Works of art and unique pieces referencing the timeless symbols of the Serenissima. Map E4 San Marco, 1894 (Campo San Fantin). T: 345 7070284

GALLERIA D’ARTE L’OCCHIO Located in the historic centre of Venice, just steps from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, this gallery was established at the beginning of the 1990s to promote the work of young, emerging artists. The gallery recently increased its presence in Venice with the opening of a second exhibition space which hosts solo exhibitions. Map E4 www.gallerialocchio.net Dorsoduro, 181-185. T: 041 5226550 Antichità Zanutto More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35

STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

VENETIANS

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

ADVERTORIAL

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.

www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37

VENETIANS

ALINARI ARCHIVES, FLORENCE. UNIDENTIFIED AUTHOR, VENICE, LIDO (CIRCA 1915). FRATELLI ALINARI MUSEUM COLLECTIONS (RMFA), FLORENCE.

LIDO DI VENEZIA

Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. BY ELENA BINDA

The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200m in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle. WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a

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beautiful pine forest. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club (18 holes) set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered that there was nowhere else where he could play golf. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for

ICONIC LANDMARKS. Left, dating back to circa 1935, this â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Animated view of the Grand Hotel Excelsior on the Lido in Veniceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is a part of the prestigious Alinari Archives of Florence. In addition to other priceless originals in albumin, this period reproduction is available at the La Salizada gallery (page 35). Above, the Grand Hotel Des Bains, closed several years ago. Below, the "Murazzi": a bike tour is the best way to visit the island.

time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.

GOURMET TIPS. The ultimate spot for a relaxing break, since it first opened La Favorita (below) boasts a timeless, intimate ambience, where diners can expect an authentic Venetian menu featuring a fabulous selection of traditional fish dishes.

SPECIAL EVENTS - For many years the Lido has been the playground of celebrities and crowned heads. It all begans in the second half of the 19th century when the international jet-set discovered its long sandy beaches. It is therefore not surprising that in August 1932 the terrace of the Hotel Excelsior hosted the first film festival. Then, a special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, was assigned to the most glamorous event of the year, the Venice Film Festival. At the end of summer, the festival turns the sleepy Lido into a mini Hollywood, attracting rising stars of the screen, eager to be photographed, plus hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39

DINING

It’s called “Vecio”, but it’s new “Vecio” in Venetian means ‘old’ but Vecio Fritolin, an historic locale tucked away in an alley, has been given a makeover and now offers a selection of gourmet specialties prepared by two chefs. By Elena Binda

igh-quality cuisine requires the finest, seasonal ingredients. For this reason, every day, Irina Freguia, the owner and brainchild of Vecio Fritolin, a positive, enterprising woman who loves good food and hospitality, heads to the Rialto market – the oldest in the city, located just steps from the restaurant – to source the freshest meat, fish and vegetables. This locale boasts an age-old history. Formerly an old-style ‘bacaro’, or small unassuming tavern, where guests could savour a snack and a glass of wine, Vecio Fritolin has held pride of place in Santa Croce since the 18th century. Although it has now been transformed into a restaurant, it has lost none of the old-school charm that makes it one of the most pleasant places in Venice for a special occasion meal. 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

The kitchen is manned by two chefs: Pierluigi Lovisa, boasting 40 years of experience in the business, is the ‘director’ of this historic locale, featured in guides worldwide, while 26 yearold Raffaele Minute, the young, creative soul of the restaurant, is more oriented towards experimentation, upgrading desserts, hors d’œuvres and several other dishes served at the restaurant with a contemporary twist. In addition to featuring a mixture of traditional and innovative fare, with an emphasis on seafood (including several Venetian specialties that cannot be found elsewhere), the menu also caters to the requirements of Vegetarians, Vegans and individuals suffering from Celiac disease. Highlights include naturally leavened bread, homemade bread sticks, bronze extruded pasta and artisanal desserts.

>> Vecio Fritolin Santa Croce, 2262 (Calle della Regina). T: 041 5222881. www.veciofritolin.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto

Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta

Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta

One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna

Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini

Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-

A Beccafico Arte

It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana

Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza

Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo

A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

L’Alcova's magical atmosphere Diners can enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine at the L’Alcova Restaurant with its splendid view overlooking the Grand Canal. The menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list featuring vintages from various Italian regions. The young and talented chef Damiano Bassano combines traditional Italian flavours with unique touches. Its exquisite interiors look onto Venice’s scenic waterfront and the Rialto Market. This magical location has inspired the chef who sources fresh ingredients from land and sea, offering diners dishes that are infused with his talented creativity. The ‘L’Incontro’ Bar is an ideal place to sample aperitivi and pre-and post-prandial drinks. Don’t miss the ‘Rooftop terrace’, a perfect location for cocktails and signature drinks at aperitivo time. This exclusive bar offers a variety of drinks, including traditional Spritzes, Bellinis and fruit cocktails (sourced from the nearby Rialto Market), an innovative idea based on the chef’s philosophy of natural, healthy cuisine. L’Alcova Restaurant c/o Ca’ Sagredo. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Giorgio Schifferegger. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XIIcentury church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6

Pisanino

Do Leoni

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. www.palazzettopisani.com Located in the noble floor of Palazzetto Pisani, facing the Grand Canal, here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Moreover, try out the Balcony experience, a romantic and unique experience just for two persons on a private balcony facing the Grand Canal, simply enjoy an aperitivo in Venetian style, an exclusive dinner or even a continental breakfast. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Accademia stop). Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,

44 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4

Il Ridotto

DINING

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Veniceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;palazziâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Osteria da Fiore

Met

Dopolavoro

Oro

Venissa

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DINING

Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.

stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Conca d’Oro

Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore

A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 46 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,

transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal

Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.

1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon

Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical

DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Calcina

Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua

Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. This restaurant is part of the new "L'Chaim!" Tour (see page 8). venicebeyondtheghetto.com Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.

Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani

For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer

Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Map F3

Trattoria Do Forni

The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner

Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Italian specialties and traditional Venetian dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice

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ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.

Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089

LA FAVORITA Situated in the heart of the Lido of Venice, since 1950, this historic family-run trattoria has paid tribute to Venetian cuisine. Its menu, comprised mainly of fish dishes, is inspired by locally-sourced ingredients with a focus on distinct, easily recognizable flavours. Standouts include fish tartare or bigoli with shrimp and artichokes which, during warmer months can be savoured in the garden accompanied by a rich selection of wines and great live music. See page 40 Via Francesco Duodo, 33. Lido di Venezia. T: 041 5261626.

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

A treasure trove of glass art A visit to the Orsoni Mosaics foundry, featuring an eclectic meld of old and new, is an absolute must. By Romena Brugnerotto

ocated in the picturesque Cannaregio district, just steps from the Jewish ghetto, the Orsoni Foundry, a historic Venetian mosaics factory that testifies to the legacy of artistic craftsmanship in the Serenissima, has finally re-opened its doors to the public. Established at the end of the 19th century (1888), this legendary atelier has continued to manufacture mosaics based on secret techniques that have been handed down through generations to produce Orsoni’s trademark colours. Now owned by the Bisazza family, renowned mosaic manufacturers from Vicenza, the foundry boasts a Mosaics School, a Colour Library and several special projects. While touring the venue, Riccardo Bisazza,

50 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

the President of the Orsoni Foundry, explained why a tour of the facility is an absolute must. ► Colour Library. The shelves of this unusual library do not contain books but rows and rows of coloured tiles that are used as a reference to produce the mosaics. Believe it or not, one whole shelf is dedicated to the colours used to reproduce the various shades of human skin. ► Important commissions. Orsoni still provides the mosaics used to restore the world’s most beautiful buildings, including the Basilica di San Marco in Venice, and the Sagrada Familia church in Spain that was designed by renowned Catalan architect Antonio Gaudí. An interesting fact: Gaudí

asked Orsoni to provide the mosaics for the church after falling in love with them in Paris. Numerous requests also come from the East. ► See and learn how a mosaic is made, how it is cut and prepared so that it is ready to use, plus the creation of gold leaf mosaics. ► Focusing on innovation rather than simply referencing the past, The Orsoni showroom in Cannaregio was recently renovated to show architects from all over the world how mosaics can be integrated into modern houses, offices and bathrooms, and the result is breathtaking. >> Orsoni Cannaregio, 1045 T: 041 2440002-3 www.orsoni.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco

This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)

Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto

This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm5pm. www.madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco

A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with FOR UPDATES VISIT numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 51

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it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco,

31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health)

Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892. 52 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

Museo Correr

church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to

A bust of Maria Luisa of Austria by Luigi Pizzi is preserved in the ‘imperial’ rooms of the Royal Palace at the CORRER MUSEUM which were decorated during the Habsburg period. two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects,

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

| SIGHTSEEING

St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini. it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5

Teatro La Fenice

Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

The great heart of Venice, the Basilica of San Marco is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks and the city’s most important church. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-to-be-missed highlight. While in the area, make sure to ascend to the top of its bell tower, which offers superb views over the city.

The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. This is a place of worship and on entering visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, taking photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. The church is open daily for prayer and at certain times or on certain days it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For reasons of safety, heavy luggage must be left outside (luggage can be deposited in Ateneo San Basso, in Piazzetta dei Leoncini, in front of the Porta dei Fiori, north facade). For more information visit www.basilicasanmarco.it.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art

Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 53

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arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum)

Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www. museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

LE STANZE DEL VETRO Don't miss the exhibition ‘Vittorio Zecchin: Transparent Glass for Cappellin and Venini’, curated by Marino Barovier for ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’: 250 fine hand-blown mostly monochrome works designed by Vittorio Zecchin between 1921 and 1926. Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, until 7 January 2018. www.lestanzedelvetro.org

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art

The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco

The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atriumnarthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore

Museo Correr

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro

The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.

Gustav Klimt’s Judith II-Salomè (1909), depicting the artist’s transition from the ‘Golden’ to the ‘Floral’ phase, is hosted at the CA’ PESARO International Gallery of Modern Art.

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco. it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare

The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399. Padiglione delle Navi. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve. it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour

| SIGHTSEEING

of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www. scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Palazzo Ducale

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria

Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'

Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.

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PHOTOS © LAURA ERICA LA MONACA

ENTERTAINMENT

A“cicchetto” while admiring the Lagoon Wine and food? In Italy, this pairing is a form of entertainment, beauty and culture. Don’t miss this perfect combination: the tradition of the Venetian ‘cicchetto’ and the scenic luxury of the Danieli Bistro. By Elena Binda

n Venice, there’s an ancient tradition, so ancient that its name derives from Latin. According to historical documentation, the name ‘cicchetti’ stems from the late-Latin word ‘ciccus’ (small). Cicchetti are the ‘bite-sized’ appetizers that Venetians love to eat at pavement cafés while enjoying their surroundings. An integral part of the ritual is a glass of wine or an ‘ombra de vin’ (shadow) because, in bygone days, flasks of wine were preserved in the shadow of St. Mark’s bell tower. Although a wide variety of ‘cicchetti’ are available throughout the city, the Danieli Bistro, located on the top floor of the historic Palazzo Dandolo, offers one of the best ‘cicchetti’ experiences in town. A real triumph of Italian excellence, this unique venue, boasting an innovative, informal

56 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

ambience, offers diners creative cuisine, infused with Mediterranean ingredients upgraded with a cosmopolitan twist. The bistro’s warm, intimate atmosphere is ideal for diners in search of an ideal mixture of upscale food and wine paired with stunning views over the Venetian Lagoon. In addition to the delectable bite-sized creations prepared by chef Dario Parascandolo, guests can choose from among a fabulous selection of fine wines, sample top-notch craft beers or opt for the Danieli’s trademark spritz, Venice’s best-loved cocktail which, in this case, comprises a mixture of Aperol, ginger, cucumber and prosecco. An unbeatable idea? Treat yourself and make this New Year’s Eve something really special by booking a table at the Danieli Bistro.

>> Danieli Bistro c/o Hotel Danieli. Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480 - www.danielibistro.com

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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia

Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona

The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia

Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

JW Marriott Venice

Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it ■ OPERA 1, 3 December UN BALLO IN MASCHERA Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Gianmaria Aliverti, director Massimo Checchetto, sets Carlos Tieppo, costumes 6, 7, 9, 19, 21 December and 3, 4, 5, 7, 9, 10 January LA TRAVIATA Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Enrico Calesso/Marco Paladin, conductors Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets and costumes Philippe Giraudeau, coreography ■ CONCERTS 3 December at Sale Apollinee LA FENICE SOLOISTS CONCERT Music by: Richard Strauss, Claudio Cavallin, Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky Marco Roberto Baraldi/Gianaldo Tatone, violins Alfredo Zamarra/Petr Pavlov, viole Luca Magariello/Alessandro Zanardi, cellos 18, 19 December at St. Mark’s Basilica MARCO GEMMANI CONDUCTOR Ad Vesperum Assumptionis Sanctae Mariae Virginis in tribute to the 450th anniversary of Claudio Monteverdi’s birth Marco Gemmani, conductor La Cappella Marciana Soloists, orchestra 28 December NEW YEAR’S CONCERT 2018 As is now tradition, the first part of the concert will be purely for orchestra. With soloists and choir, the second part is dedicated to melodrama and will end with what has now become a tradition at the Fenice New Year’s Concerts, with the choir “Va’ Pensiero” from Nabucco and the toast “Libiam ne’ lieti calici” from La traviata by Giuseppe Verdi

PHOTO © BEPSY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Francesco Meli, tenor Maria Agresta, soprano

CASINÒ DI VENEZIA The world’s oldest gaming house (1638), Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking the Grand Canal. www.casinovenezia.it

■ BALLET 10 December at Malibran Theatre VENEZIAINDANZA 2017 (10th edition) Music by: Georges Bizet, Rodion Ščedrin Michela Barasciutti, artistic director Monica Casadei, coreography 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 December SIDI LARBI CHERKAOUI & JEROEN VERBRUGGEN Music by: Maurice Ravel Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui & Jeroen Verbruggen, choreography w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 57

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!

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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

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ESSENTIALS Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ONHOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily (from April to November): 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.

GALEONE VENEZIANO This is a unique way to visit Venice’s lagoon while savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical legacy. Built in 2001 to bring ship owner Andrea Longo’s longtime dream to life, the “Galeone Veneziano”is a vessel inspired by the ancient galleons, used in bygone days, by the Serenissima. • Services: designed to merge history with a contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the services of a modern ship. This one-of-a-kind venue is perfect for parties and a great way to amaze your travel companions; it can be rented for private events such as weddings and business meetings, offering guests a special tour, with or without lunch or dinner, while sailing around the islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags and banners. • Events: every Wednesday and Friday evening, you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner

Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 seats): a charming candle-lit dinner that allows guests to take in the sights while sailing in front of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo. • About the Galeone Veneziano: It can sail all year long as it has a rigid covering and heating during the winter; in summer, in case of bad weather it has a protective covering. The Galleon is equipped with a wired audio system with microphones and is accessible to the differentlyabled. There are two galleons in the fleet, each one with a maximum capacity of 146 passengers for private events, and 84 seats for table service. • Information: +39 0421 380006. info@jollyroger.it - www.galeoneveneziano.it

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.

60 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2017

Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

VENICE HELICOPTER TOURS

Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash). You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice.

Photo: Riccardo Roiter Rigoni

Aeroporto G. Nicelli – Lido di Venezia T. +39 334 786 0653 info@heliair.it – www.heliair.it

“Join us for an unforgettable experience in Venice”

Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

... Ask only for the Best Service! is the exclusive ticket resale point for the Gran Teatro La Fenice and the Arena of Verona w w w. in t e r n a t io n a llim o u s in e . it Piazzale Roma 496 I-L T: +39 041 5221867 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 61

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VIA

MASENA

ROTONDA

CANOSSIANE

CALLE

LARGA

LA DE

CALLE

Apostoli Santi dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

CORDONI DEI STELLA

CALLE CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL

DEI

CALLE

TESTA LA

Rio

Dei

BANDI

MENDICANTI

FONDAMENTAMendicanti

DE CALLE

CASTELLO

GIUSTINA

CAPPUCCINE CALLE

SANTA

DEGLI

ORTI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE CAVALLI

MURAZZO

PIETA’

CALLE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CAPPELLO

CALLE

RAMO

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

MAGNO

Nuove Fondamenta delle

GRECI

CALLE DEI

Canale

STRETA SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

DOSE DEL

CALLE

DE FONDAMENTA

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

PARADISO DEL

DEL

CALLE

ISEPO

SANT'ANTONIO

COLONNE CALLE

C. D EL

CAR

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

GEN

ERA

INO

TTO

CAL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

Teatro Verde

LÒ

Japan Pavilion

MAGGIORE

EMB

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

Le Zitelle

VI O

Lido S. Nicolo' M

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

R E

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

STRETTA

CALLE DEL FORNO

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE

FORNO

BO DONZELLA C.

DEL

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CALLE DEL

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

FOORNO

Ca’

DEL

Rio

VELE DE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

SALIZADA

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

CALLE

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

RIO CROCE

ROTONDA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

FA R S

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

VENIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DEI

SANT'ELENA

Rio

SANT'ELENA

Parco delle Rimembranze

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

U I P

GRANDE

TERÀ

PALUDO

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

CALLE

RIO

PONTE

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

CALLE

CORTE

Giardini

S. Giorgio

FIANCO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

SAN GIACOMO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

ACCADEMIA

IST

Lungo

R L C

IB PE GAR

ION

FONDAMENTA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

OSPIZIO

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALLE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

I S ET

FONDAMENTA

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

C. LOREDANA

Ponte

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

CALLE

DELLA

ERBE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

CALLE

RAMO DE

CALLE

CALLE ALBERO

JUNGHANS

AMEN

TANA

Punta della Dogana

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

FOND

DE LA

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CAMPO

CALLE

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

M E N TA

VIDA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

PICCOLO

DEI

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

FEM

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

SCUOLA

PISCINA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

CALLE

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

MARTIN SAN

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

BASTION

SCUDI

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

CELESTIA

DONA

L’ANZOLO

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DE

DEGLI

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

ANTONIN

S C H I AV

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CALLE

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

MINELLI

DEGLI

SCHIAVONI RIVA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

DIREZIONE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

Marittim

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

DEL

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

PISCINA

VERONA

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

A N M

SALIZADA

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

LARGA

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

MAGAZZINI

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL

SAN

CALLE

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

SAN

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

Stazione

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

BEMBO

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

zera

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

REMER

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CORNER

DIETRO

DEI

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

COCCO

TOSCANA

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Museo Correr

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

MADONA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

FONDAMENTA

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

Salute

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Ca' Giustinian

Palazzo Genovese

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CASTELLO

CALLE

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

ORESI

CALLE

DOLERA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RUGA

GALIZZI

STURION

DEL

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

SALIZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

SAN LIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA PIO

CALLE

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

Casa di Marco Polo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CATERINA

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

FABBRICHE

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON DEL

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

DEL

San Felice

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

Abazia della Misericordia D

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

TRON

SAN

MORETTI

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

CALLE

TABACCHI

Bacino

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

ALE

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

CALLE DE LA LACA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

FO de Servi N

TER

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

100 m

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

BARI

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

STRADA

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

Rio

LER

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

ER LE P

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

NOVA

San Girolamo

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

DEL

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

PISCINA

SAN

L’ARCO

CALLE

N G IR

SAN

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

LLO

RUGA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

CALLE

FORNER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

SANT'AGNESE

Parco

BRAGADIN

PISCINA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

INCURABILI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

C A

S. Servolo

N TA

ILEI

VI SC

VIC

AN D'

ZAR

VIA

RIA

ISA

VIA

S TA

T TA

HIE

O LL GA

MIC

VIA

DOL

O E NR

ICO

V I A L E PA N T O

VIA

DAN

MOCENIGO

ZIO

E C I PA

O PA RT

ORS

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

VIA

VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

AQU

VIA

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

RIV

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA

SANDRO

O SE LV

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

GALLIPOLI

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

Hotel Excelsior Venice

R AT

PIZZAMANO

VIA

O LL

PIE

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

I VI

MA O LM IE NG

CRISTOFORO

VIA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

VIA

SAN

SAN PIGAFETTA

PIGAFETTA

LIDO

I S E

O LL GA

A VI

O VA

I E

VIA

VIA FRANCESCO

PEZZANA

I R E

Z AT

VIA M

GIOVANNI ON

PIVIDOR

A VI CO OC AM AL M

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

O NI

RO UE SQ L DE

n ti

DI CA

ic a

IM EN

DE TA

i M e

R io

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA SANTA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

PIETA’

E CA ST

EL LO

AMEN

TA A R SE

FONDAME

A STR ETA

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

E N N LO O C LE AL C

E G

Russia Pavilion

SAN T'EL

INO

TTO

ERA

ENA

GEN

SS PA

Sant'Elena

F. LL

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

7 PALAZZO DUCALE

2 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

8 THE GHETTO

VI A

SAN

T' EL

EN A

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

PONTE DI RIALTO

10 MURANO

4 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO 5

TEATRO LA FENICE 6 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO

ENA

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

FON DAM

E VIAL E PIAV

see pages 4-5

3 CANAL GRANDE

CAR

C VI

RIA

PIZ

C. D EL

Parco delle Rimembranze

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

Teatro Verde

Japan Pavilion

CAL

ON LL E

MAGGIORE

Top in Town

S MA

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

United States Pavilion

VIALE

EN TA AM

5 A

M CA

CC A

M CA

LA E PO

TT E

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

L EL

ION

BB O

O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

Giardini

ISOLA DI

SA IST

E US

S. Giorgio

R L C

EL CA LL

ERA

O E ANC

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALL

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

Punta della Dogana

CALLE

I S E

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

SALUT E

F O N D A M E N TA

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

BALD

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

GARI

AM ON

OS E CR

EPPE

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

VA E NUO

CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

PRET E DEI

ESSO

E COLT

LAR

oise

IUS VIA G

CALL

VAL

RTIRI

I MA

100 m

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALL

CALLE

FO ND

LA TANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

SAL

DEI FORNI

CAL

V TA

ION

RAMO DE

TAN A

DE LA

FONI

CAM PO

MARA

CALL E

P IE

VID A

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

A RO SA

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

FOND

E LA RG

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

EMB

ENA

E IV NOV

ARS

SAL IZAD

E N TA

VIAL

DE I FO RN I

DAM

CA LL E

CA LLE

FONDAMENTA

Arsenale

ini

mo DEI

ARSENALOTTI

M OR OSI NA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

FON

FONDAMENTA

Rio de San Gerola

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

Verg

ONI

CAL LE

S C H I AV

CA LL E

R I VA D EGLI

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

I ITT GR

E LL CA

CR OSE RA

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

NDAM ENTA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

L’A

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

RS EN

NATER PIG

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

N SA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

ale

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

L’AN ZO LO

enta

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

CALLE DEI

delle

E CAPP

FONDAMENTA

CALL

CAL PEL LO O CAP

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCC INE

LE MUR

CALLE CAVALL I

CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

AN A

IERA

DE LL A CO RO NA

LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA O

ALL

C. DE LA MADONETA

L DO

DEL

DIS

UT AR

L VO

NA VE

E DE

STA GNERI

C. DEI

BA LO TE LE

BR ESS

SALIZADA

I SE M BA

BO E

AP II

A RI CE M ER

LO VO

CA LL E DE

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CALL

CENS

VO HIA

HIA RUGA VECC

A AS

DIC

OTT LE RID

LE TRE

CAL

I SC

LE ST

O C. VOLT

LARG

MO GL A DE RIV

A N M

DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

LLE

an Moisè

SA LO

DEGLI

LE CAL

N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

Museo Correr

R I VA

N IO ST BA

Palazzo Ducale

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

OLO

7 2

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

ANT ONIN

LL A

L DE

AL CAV

SALIZAD A SAN

E LL CA

DEL

l Palaz

SAN

ZZA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

PIA

ENTA FONDAM

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

Rio De

LE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

IN MAR DE L’OS

LL E

CAL LE

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

ONI CA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

I PRET

E NUO

SE ST

O DE L’OGI CALLE

E GAT

RI BB I FA DE

GA SAN

CAL

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

ASI DR

E LL

LE LAR

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

DE LE

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER CO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

LLE CA

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

RO VE N SE SA

CAL

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

IO ED M L RE DE

DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

LE CAL

CORTE

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

FA GIUF

IA ER EL SS CA

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

CORTE NUOVA

San Giuliano

INA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

NCE

IZADA SAL

LE DE CAL

San Lorenzo

FRA

CALLE ERIZZO

A SC TA

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

LE SAN

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

O AT USS M

CALLE

FON

CAL

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

L IO

LE CAL

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

LICINI

E DEL CAFE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

DE LE BAN

CALL

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

CORTE

RUBBI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

E’

DE LE TOLE

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

I OR

SAL VAD OR

PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE

BARB ARIA

CORTE

Santa Maria del Pianto

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LL E

CALICE

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

L IZ

DE LE ERBE

LIO

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

SA N

FOR

REM

AD A

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARG A

DE LA FAVA

D. PA LLE

CAMPO

C. DEL

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

R io

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SA LIZ C. DE L GA LIAZZO

PIO

DE L GO

ZZO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

IOL

LLE

ARTIN

CAMPO SAN LIO

GIA

C. DE

G. GA LLI

LE DEL

CALL E

CA LLE

CORTE DEL

AZEN

TEL

DEL CO O

C.M

SAN

LE CAS

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

LE VEN

CAL

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador

RD DE

CAL

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

MA RZA RIA

CA LLE

LL CA

CORTE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

CAL

O RN FO L DE

SABION

ST UO

LAR

VENEZIA

D IS

S.G. GRISOS TOMO

RIO

DR IO CA LLE LE SC

CA LLE

TE ST A

E DE

CA LL

CA LLE GA BR IEL

CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO

CORTE NOVA

C ALL E

CAN ZIAN

LE COC

PIO

TEG

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAZ ZINI

AN SALVADOR

DEL

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

CAL

SA LIZZ AD A

FON

CAL LE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

C. DEL

I B O

Casa di Marco Polo

9deiFontego Tedeschi

omo to

METO

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

A SAN

RIO TER RÀ

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

AR NN

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

TI ET OR EM LL CA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SAL IZAD

ST EL LA

SAN TI

RAMO

TAR IOL

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CA LL E

APO STO

A FRU

CAL

À BA RB

San Giovanni Grisostomo

te alto

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

AZZ O

I CO

lc e

TER

PIS TO

E VO LT

E VE NI

C AL

i Ap os

CA LL

SART ORI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

i ia e

to li ZE

Sa nt

de i

’D o

GA RU

R io

RIO

DE L

CORTE DEL REMER

AD A

CA LL

SA LIZ

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

RI NA

AZE N

R io

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAG

ND RE

BA N DI

. S.A

CAL LE

C.S AN T’A NT ON IO

angelica ana

CA LL

Santi Apostoli

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E FO SC

SA A NG LU E LL AM

FERRUCCIO PARRI

Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

FOND .

LA RG A

ALVISOPOLI

VIA

CA LLE

se A ric or dia

VIA

MALAMOCCO

CA ND

FO ND

ISOLA POVEGLIA

R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O

SE NA

S. Servolo

11 BURANO 12 TORCELLO

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 63

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Casanova – San Marco, 1284 • F4 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4

Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3

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Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) THERMAL HOTELS 5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro d’Abano, 1 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro d’Abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR DELUXE (L) & 4 STAR Garden Terme (S) – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd)

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