Where Magazine Venice Dec 2018

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

DECEMBER 2018

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

COUNTDOWN TO 2019 Concerts, exhibitions and other events

TINTORETTO 500

Two exhibitions pay tribute to the great Renaissance master

The

New Year is staged

Starring Venice

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


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Venice December 2018 4

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the guide 10 SHOPPING

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BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

Amidst cultural references and culinary traditions, Bistrò da Cici reinterprets traditional Venetian cuisine with a contemporary twist

DINING

26 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Parco San Giuliano

Contents

A pick of 20th century and contemporary art galleries in Venice.

A

IAN

OND ROT

CAN

LA

GA

DE

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CAL

O ITEL CAP

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ERI

stol

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ti Apo San

I

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

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COR DEI LE

LLA

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BAN DI CAL LE

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

TEST A

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ADI

DE

DEL

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PAR

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DEL

CAL

C.

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

ILE APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

DEL

EI BAS

DEL CAL LE

CAL

SA

A N M

RC

O

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

NI

Punta della Dogana

RE

AI

SA

LO

CATECUMENI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

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FONDAME

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San

AM

ND

FO

BRAG

TA

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

I

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

Zattere

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo AM

EN

TA

SA

N

BIA

GI

O

FO

Sant'Eufemia FO

SA

NT

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FEM

IA

ITE

FONDA

CALL

E COSM

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VERT

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MENTA

PONTE

PICCOL

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Redentore O

ND

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EN

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ND

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EN

TA

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LL

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LL

LE

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AM

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca EN

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E CON

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CALL

ND

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ND

RI

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ANE

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LAVR

OBIL

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DE LE ERBE

FO

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CALL

DE LA SACA

DE

CALLE

RI

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

I

ZZ

ce

PO

Dol

DO

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

LI

R

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

SAN A CHI VEC

A

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

CA

C. NI

O

VAN GIO

L’ARC

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CAL

E DE CALL RUG

LA

LLE

CA

DI

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TA

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ND

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NTA

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LLE

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DEL

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DE CAL LE

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VER LLE

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C.

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CAM PO

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TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION

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CORTE

LO

DEGLI

EN

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FOND

A

ADIN

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

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CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

FON

TRA GHE TO

DEL

C.

A ROS LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

A

ORB I DEI

CAL LE

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI CAR FOS RÀ TER RIO

Palazzo Ducale

MO VONI SCHIA RIVA

Salute

San Gregorio

RIO

GNESE

Palazzo Genovese

CALLE DEL BASTION

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

Moise

MENTA

O

I

FONDA

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

NANI

ZZA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

TA

CANONI DE LA

CA

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

FOND

CALLE

MARCO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

RC

Museo Correr

VALLAR

CALLE

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DURO RE DORSO

DEL

GR LE

INA TI

DE

RM

TA

CA

EN

AD

AM

LIZ

ND

SA

FO

DO ON SEC A’

CRI STO DEL CAL LE

LI LIPO TA E STRE

CALL

CALL

E DE

LAR

E

LE

RT

CAL

CO

ET RS

FA

COLOM

IO MEG E DEL CALL

NO

E

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

A

LE

AD

CAL

LIZ SA

UE

GA LAR LE CAL

TER RIO

O ROCC

NESI ALBA E DEI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALL

E DI

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

SAN

Basilica di San Marco

MA

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

San Gio

DEL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

SAN

SIONE

E

EDIO REM

ASCEN

EREMIT

LARGA

MENTA

PIA

CALLE

FONDA

LE

CALL

ETTI,

TI,

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

TE

RIO

BINA

CALLE

GO

FONTE

SALITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

CALLE

QUERIN

,

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

F. CONDULMER

IA

RER

CE

LA

DE

C.

CCA

E SBIA

CALL

I

SE

GU

RA

A

RG

LA

LLE

CA

FRUTARIOLI

LE CAL

LARGA

O

OTTI

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

C.DEI

CA

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

o

O

DEI CORTELL

DE LE

DEL FORNO

ETT

DEL TRAGHETTO

CALLE

ZUL IAN

Bacino Orseolo

CARRO

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

VAPOR

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Palazz

EOL

SARTOR

DEL

CA TAS

San Giuliano

E BIAN CALL

ALL CAV

ORS

C. DEL

CALLE

O

SAN

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

DEL

A ENT

MUN EGH E

LO EL RI E LL CA

A CI LU NT A SA TA

LO

EN

CO

AM

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

De

e

al

an

C

O

TIM

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MA

O

RT

PO

NE

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RE

DI

I

IN

ZZ

GA

MA

AI

ra

RO

À

O SAT MUS

Rio Del

ze

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

GIO ROLO DELL’O

ET

DEI

LE CAL

I HIER SPEC

TER

C.

DAM

DI

LUCATE LLO

C.

BRI FAB

FON

E

CAP

RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

LIO

IA DAR SPA

STR

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

LICINI

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

DEI

NA

DEL

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

CORTE

MEZ O

ARIA MARZ

LE

E C.

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

E DEI CALL

DEL

AZZ

CALLE

MOIS

SA

GIAZZO

RUBBI

DE

LE CAL

I

NA

Sa

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

LI CALLE

C. LARGA

CORTE

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

VERO

PISCI

XXII MARZO

CASTEL

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

BALO TE

LE CAL

LA

MINELL

A DE

IOL

ERIA

PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CALLE

CAMPO

CAL LE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

C.DE

BRI FAB

en

DEI

DE

CALLE

A

CALLE

I

CALL GABRI E

G. GALLIN

ERIA SEL CAS

r

LE CAL

do

C.

CALLE

LL

CO

LARGA

LIO

lva

ONA

CORTE

MICHIEL

OL

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

ERI

E

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

DA

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

SALVAD OR

BOT

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

SAN

Sa

VER

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

AC

CORTE GRAGOLINA

C.

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

DEI

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

DA

SAN

LE

LA

RTA

DE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

X

n

I

CAOTO

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

Sa

NDE LOCA CALLE

SSIN

SAN

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

GA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

N

WID

LE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

Rio

A LUC LE CAL

ASSA

Santa Maria del Giglio

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

LAR

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

MAR ZARI A DEL

DEL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

LE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

FONTEG

San Salvador

C. DE LE COLONNE

A

CALLE

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

IZA

BO BEM

LE CAL

San Fantin

R

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

CALLE

OLA MAND

RO TEAT

BON CAR

SAN

TEATRO

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

DEL

E

RIO

DE

CA

SALI ZZA DA

Rialto

LE CAL

C.

DOL

om

RAMO

SAL

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

RT

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

MARCO

ETIE

I

R

RIOL

O

QUE OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

Sc

CIN NER COR

le

A

E CALL

E CALL

na

FRUTA

COCCO

CAN

PO

TOS

NE

E VENIE

CAL

BARBA

CALLE

DE

ZIO

LE

RE

SARTORI

TERÀ

O

N

DI

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

C. DEL

RIO

CAF

Canal Grande

DEL FORNO

CALL

ETTI MOR

SI

ON

STU

TI OCA

MAN

DEL

CHIES

SALIZADA

E

ZEN

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORE

DEL

E CALL

CALL

LE

DELLA

UZZI

ENTA

CALL

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Maurizio

CALLE

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

DAM

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

ANG

LE

TEA TR O

À

CAL

CALLE

CAPP

ULI

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

AVV

GO

VE

REA

SALIZAD

CAL LE

TER

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

PRI

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

VA

San Silvestro

de ran

SI

BOT EGH E

NO

RINA

FOND.

ENT A

DEI

RAVA

DEL

DEL

LE

NT'A

. S.AND

DAM

DEI

NO

CAL

ETA

RUGH

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

C.SA

NO

PAR

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI

FOND

Santa Sofia

DA

LE

ttim a

TE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUT I

SAN

CAMPO PISANI

CATE

LE CAL

CA’

RIO

. NARI

TA

FON

FON

CAL

ari

EN

CALLE

SAN

CAL

eM

AM

ENTA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

E CALL

ion

ND

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

RA

ZI

LE

ST

GALIZ

DE

Palazzo Loredan

DEL PISTOR

STU A

DEI

Ca

LA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

FOND

CRO SER A

DAM

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

A

oS taz

N

ZEL

cin

DEL

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

FON

HE BRIC FAB

DE

BOT A

DE L

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CALLE

IN

DON

Ba

LE

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

SA PE E LL

TR

L DE VA NO

MI

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

S. Samuele

CALLE

OL

LE

LA

CAL

DEI LAVRANE

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

C.

OZZE CARR

AP

ANI GRIM

LE

TR

E CALL

SACCA

FO

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

FISOLA

LARGA

CAR

FORNO

E DE CALL

CHI TODES

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

ZATTER

CHIESA

RA

DEL

CA’

DA IZA SAL

MENTA

DELLA

TA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDA

CALLE

ND

ERA

CAL LE RAMO

al G

SESTIERE

S. Toma' SX

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

LE

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

San Trovaso

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

DE

E DOL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

IER

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

' VE

S.Silvestro

Can

San Tomà

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

LE CAL

FAL

LINI

TER

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

ENTA

EN

CAMPO APONAL

C. DEI

LON

RIO

LE

DAM

AM

DON SAN PER

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

L’AG NEL LA

LE SAMUE

TE

DE

RIN PEST

PON

C.

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAL

I

IA

ND

A

LET

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CALLE BERNARDO

BON

E AL

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

O

RUG

SCA

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

Ca' Rezzonico

FON

TER

ZI

DE INC INI

DEL

SERA

SANT

DEI TIOZ

A S. PISCIN

OGNI

IC

DE

DO

E CRO

. DE

ER

DE

E DEL CALL

FOND

ZAT

NT AR

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

LE

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

A

San Barnaba

IS

CAL LE

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

C.

M

FO

CAL

O

O

TA

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

Accademia

DE OGNISAN

NTA

OR

CALL

S. Basilio

NT

HETT

ENTA

TE

TRAG

L’ASE

EN

CALL

SER

AM

CA

SAN

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

TI

AME

L

E DEL

FONDAM

FOD

CO

C.

CRO

TA

LA

LE

EN

DE

CAL

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

TA

a de

GO RTE OPO SOT

C.

DORSODURO

IO

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

BESAG

EN

nn

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

DEI PUTI

IAN

DA SAN

I

NA

SAN POLO

CALLE

AST

DORSODURO

DE

CALL

E DE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SEB

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

AM

do

rto

MADONA

E

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

SAN

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

Ma

ll'O

AM

S.Stae

DE LA

CALL

FOMO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

A ENT CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

PRET

ALE

RAMO

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

DAM

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

I

E DEI

D

E TRON

TOMÀ

TTO

E RENIE

DEL

FO

lla

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

ER

ORE

N

DD

ND

CALLE

TALO

N

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

AL

FO

SA

E ZANE

nde Canal Gra

del

OCHE

E

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

MA

CAMPO SAN STIN

TTO

min

I

Rio

TERÀ

SAN

LE

R

FON

DON

RIO

CAL

LA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

E

GHE

IAT

C.

MEZ

TRA

BR

E LE

CALL

DE

DEL

TA

LE

LE

NI

LAR

LA TT

À D E

E C AN

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

LA

TER

CAL

CALL

o de

C.

N

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

C. DE

DIA

EN

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

DE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

ESI

RIO TERA’

AR

O

LE

TI

CALLE DELL'OLIO

GU

AM

TA

San Rocco

Mu

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

ND

OT

EN

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

R

L’ISOLA

TOR

IA

CIM

N

le

PAN

SSA

RIELO

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

DE

DE LA VIDA

CAL

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALLE

a

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

TIN

DAR O

de

San Pantalon

RO

FO

Angelo Raffaele

RAMO

FON

RAM

CIM

A SAN

O

O

FO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

NUOVO

I

NTA

LORENZ

OLO

C. SAN

CALLE CASE NUOVE

LE

AM

TERA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA BELA

A

tini

USE

ME

i

RE

NIC SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

BASEG

RIO

CALLE CONTARINA

DA

DE L’OGIO

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

LAC

CALL

CALLE

MENTA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

LE

I

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

TA DE

TA

LA

ete

SAL

Rio dei Tolen

CA

AMEN

AMEN

DE

LA

O

RAG

FOND

FOND

MATTA DI CA’

LE

DE

gh

OTT

en

FONDA

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

CAL

I

URATI

C.

ne

gaz

icordi

S.Marcuola

I

NE

CERER

BAR

EO

DEI

L

RZ

CALLE DE LA LACA

ESI

Ma

Miser

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

I

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

SIM

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI CALLE

NA

ND

E DEL PISTO

San Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

GA

N

MADON

LA

CA

E

IO

ZO

CAL

O

Rio

ENT A MIN

BIAS

DI

BAR

TA

LIS

FO

LE

DE

RT

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE

RAM

Del

della

RIO

DEL REMER

A

CAL

A

CALLE

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

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CO

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WELCOME TO VENICE

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

HIGH-QUALITY ITALIAN EXPERIENCE

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If you are reading this magazine, you are very likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is because you are using quality tourist information to guide you on your stay in Venice.

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That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality Travelers. In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travelers each year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. We have been doing this for almost a century now. Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience.

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET

Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

2 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici DESIGNERS Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (redazione@ whereitalia.com), Fabio Lancini (art direction) ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2018 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.or Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

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The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site.

Doge's Palace

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4  CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces,

churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima.  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5 

CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

Above, tapestry from Wassily Kandinsky, Study for Composition II (1910). Below, tapestry from Giorgio de Chirico, Canto d'amore (1914).

ART

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THE THREAD OF ART

This unique exhibition features 100 tapestries showcased alongside famous works by 20th century masters including Kandinsky, Miró, Guttuso, Dalí, de Chirico, Matisse, Warhol and NOVEMBER MAY Botero. These exquisite masterpieces, mostly 2018 2019 originating from Ugo Scassa’s studio in Asti, one of the few remaining tapestry workshops in Italy, are displayed on the four floors of Palazzo Zaguri. A preview within a preview: for the first time ever, Botero’s tapestry depicting ‘Venus’ will be available for public viewing. Da Kandinsky a Botero. Tutti in un filo Palazzo Zaguri, Campo San Maurizio www.palazzozaguri.it

4 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018


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GRAN GALÀ

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Teatro La Fenice © Michele Crosera

AN UPLIFTING START TO THE NEW YEAR

The traditional New Year’s Eve concert, that millions of television viewers across Italy follow, returns to Teatro La Fenice. As is customary, the first part of the JANUARY concert will be purely orchestral, while the second 2019 part, involving the participation of soloists and the Chorus, will be dedicated to melodrama. In keeping with tradition, the concert will end with the chorus ‘Va’ pensiero’ from Nabucco, and the ‘Libiam ne’ lieti calici’ toast from Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata. The orchestra and chorus of Teatro La Fenice will be conducted by Myung-Whun Chung. This same program will be performed on 29, 30 and 31 December. New Year's Eve Concert 2019 (11.15am) Teatro La Fenice. San Marco, 4387 - www.teatrolafenice.it

DECEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

COLLECTIONS FROM

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REDISCOVERED TREASURE

The collections at the Querini Stampalia Foundation have been enhanced by the addition NOVEMBER of several new treasures. The important collection of the Cassa di Risparmio di Venezia is hosted on the third floor of the house museum, specifically transformed into an elegant exhibition space by archistar Michele De Lucchi. The rooms feature a collection of several art works set in Venice that date from the 16th to 20th centuries, including two paintings by Canaletto, a preparatory sketch of Tintoretto’s huge Paradise, and one of the Universal Judgment by Tiepolo. Una collezione veneziana Fondazione Querini Stampalia Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5252 www.querinistampalia.org

BAROQUE MUSIC

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VIVALDI: COMPLETE VIOLIN SONATAS

Two ancient churches have been chosen as the DECEMBER picturesque locations for a complete performance of Op. 2, the attractive work by renowned Venetian composer Antonio Vivaldi. The magnificent collection of 12 Sonatas for violin and basso continuo is divided into two different concerts, the first on 21 December at the church of Santa Sofia, and the second on 22 December at the church of San Felice. Kremena Nikolova, a talented violinist specializing in the ancient repertoire will perform at both concerts. Admission free, booking advisable. Sonate Vivaldi! Op. 2 by Vivaldi, Sonatas for violin and basso continuo 1st part, 21 December: church of Santa Sofia 2nd part, 22 December: church of San Felice Cannaregio, Strada Nova www.anticonuovo.com w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5


WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Tintoretto site-specific A blockbuster exhibition celebrates the 500th anniversary of the birth of Jacopo Tintoretto, one of the greatest artists of all time. The relationship between the artist and the city goes well beyond transient events. Where® offers you a complete itinerary following the journey of the Venetian who made Venice famous. BY ELENA BINDA

ive hundred years have passed since Jacopo Robusti was born in a beautiful Gothic house in the Cannaregio district. The son of a ‘tintor’, an artisan who dyed fabrics, Tintoretto (meaning ‘liitle dyer’) was a nickname that was destined to go down in history. It was quickly apparent that, like his father, he had a gift for colour. The only difference was that Tintoretto used them to depict bold innovative compositions, dramatic figures, chiaroscuro effects, and perspectives that had never been seen before on canvas. The ‘Little Dyer’ was talented. So talented that he ended up revolutionizing art. “The fellow outlines a human figure with ten brushstrokes, and colours it with as many more”. Thus wrote John Ruskin, the 19th century English writer, artist, poet and art critic in a letter dated 1845, after a visit to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. “As for painting,” he continued, “I think I didn’t know what it meant until today.” And, after contemplating Tintoretto’s ‘crucifixion’ in the church of San Cassiano, the American novelist Henry James remarked: “It seemed to me that I had advanced to the uttermost limit of painting.” Today, five centuries after the artist’s birth, his works continue to amaze viewers. And there’s another distinctive trait that makes Tintoretto an extraordinary artist: his relationship with Venice. He is the only artist among the titans of 16th century Venetian art who was actually born in Venice. Tintoretto dedicated a number of works, unequalled by any other artist, to his native city. Churches, confraternities, civic buildings and 6 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

private ‘palazzi’ abound in his artworks and are so much part of their settings that they cannot be moved. Long before the concept of ‘site-specific art’ was fashionable, Tintoretto was renowned for having a special relationship with his places of work. Among other things, he was a Venetian with a Venetian temperament. He was also known for his business acumen. At the beginning of his career, he managed to depose his rivals by offering lower prices or accepting almost

Tintoretto 500: the exhibition

The celebrations will continue until 6 January. The Palazzo Ducale will host ‘Tintoretto 1519-1594’, an exhibition which brings together collections from across the world in the Doge’s Apartment – also decorated by Tintoretto. Alternately, the exhibition at the Gallerie dell’Accademia, aptly titled ‘The Young Tintoretto’, will feature the artist’s early works. From 10 March to 7 July 2019, both exhibitions will travel to the National Gallery of Art in Washington. Other highlights include an exhibition of period costumes at Palazzo Mocenigo that tell the story of ‘Tintoretto’s Venice’ and an exhibition of documents and manuscripts at the Scuola Grande di San Marco exploring the relationship between ‘Art, faith and medicine in Tintoretto’s Venice’. For more information www.visitmuve.it


Elena Binda Lifestyle Editor Where ÂŽ Italia

Jacopo Tintoretto, The Miracle of the Slave (1548). Gallerie dell'Accademia, Venezia. Š Archivio fotografico G.A.VE. Courtesy of Mibact. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7


PHOTOS © RENATA SEDMAKOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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Jacopo Tintoretto, The Last Supper (1579-1580), Santo Stefano church.

impossible deadlines. He gave paintings away to increase his reputation, and to cultivate potential customers. It is possible that Tintoretto initially developed his surprising pictorial technique in order to be more efficient and profitable. His peers criticized him for the ‘unfinished’ appearance of several of his works. In 1568, when writing about Tintoretto, Giorgio Vasari said: “His strange whimsies are even beyond extravagance, and his work seems to be produced rather by chance, than in consequence of any previous design.” It appears that Tintoretto was mostly selftaught because, according to an anecdote that is very hard to verify, his master, Titian threw him out of his workshop in a fit of jealousy. However, the power of his style soon became apparent, winning over his peers, and future generations. The work that made him famous and sealed his success was The Miracle of the Slave for the Scuola Grande di San Marco (1548, currently housed at the Accademia) which, more than any of his other creations, exemplifies the achievement of his aesthetic ideal. In fact, throughout much of his career, Tintoretto had sought to combine “Michelangelo’s drawing style with Titian’s colours.” THE ARTIST WHO EPITOMIZED THE GRANDEUR OF VENICE When Giorgio Vasari wrote: “Tintoretto has painted and paints most of the works in Venice,” Tintoretto was only mid-way through his career and had not yet begun to paint his most important works. In the 1550s, his status had been threatened by the arrival in the city of the brilliant Paolo Veronese who was ten years his junior. Tintoretto reacted by painting two magnificent, large-scale works for the church of the Madonna dell’Orto,The Universal Judgment and the Adoration of the Golden Calf. In 1564, he began decorating the Scuola Grande di San 8 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

Rocco, which many consider ‘his Sistine Chapel’. Tintoretto’s works are literally spread throughout Venice, with a particular concentration of his earliest works in the sestiere of Cannaregio, the neighbourhood in which he was born. This means that it is necessary to visit Venice in order to fully understand the greatness of the maestro’s body of work. In addition, his most famous pieces include at least nine versions of The Last Supper, all located in Venice. Among these, the most priceless can be found in the churches of San Marcuola (1547), San Trovaso (circa1563), San Polo (1574-75) and San Giorgio Maggiore (159294). The presence of Tintoretto’s work became even more widespread at the end of the 1570s, when the artist transformed his workshop into a family-run business. Tintoretto employed his son Domenico (born in 1560), his best assistant and successor, but also his daughter Marietta (born in 1554) who made a name for herself as a renowned portraitist. Tintoretto’s works in Venice range from authentic autograph paintings to COURTESY OF THE THIN WHITE DUKE David Bowie was an immense admirer of Tintoretto’s expressive power. As a collector, the rock star preferred contemporary art, but made an exception for ‘The Angel Foretelling Saint Catherine of Alexandria of Her Martyrdom’ dated 1570. Negotiations are under way to bring the canvas to Venice in 2019.

Jacopo Tintoretto, The Last Supper (1592-1594), San Giorgio Maggiore basilica.

others which, despite carrying his ‘trademark’, were actually executed by his assistants. Among Venice's many treasures, few are more spectacular than Tintoretto's Paradise, which hangs in the Sala Maggior Consiglio of the Doge’s Palace. The painting, the largest in Venice, was commissioned in 1592 when Tintoretto was 70 years old and was executed with the help of his son Domenico. When Jacopo died, in the same house in which he was born on 31 May 1594, Domenico continued to run the workshop until his death in 1635. It is therefore no surprise that the tomb of Tintoretto is located in the parish church of Madonna dell’Orto, the same church that made him famous throughout the world. REDISCOVERED MASTERPIECES But where can these numerous works by Tintoretto be found? In addition to those mentioned above, there are at least another eighteen that deserve a special mention, because they have been beautifully restored and returned


at the Gallerie dell’Accademia; Saint Roch in the Desert (circa 1580); Saint Roch Curing the Animals (1567), and Saint Roch Captured at the Battle of Montpellier (circa 1580), at the Church of San Rocco in Santa Croce; Saint Justinian with Three Treasurers and their Secretaries (1580) on display at the Correr Museum; the entire cycle found on the ceiling of Palazzo Ducale’s Square Atrium and the cycle on the ceiling of the Sala dell’Anticollegio, in the same building; and, lastly, as previously mentioned, Tintoretto tomb in the church of Madonna dell’Orto. It’s interesting to note that the American non-profit organization Save Venice raised the 25 million dollars required to restore these treasures. “When someone asks us why Americans should help restore art works by a 16th century Italian painter,” says its President Frederick Ichman, “we answer that the Italians only hold these treasures in trust for all of us, and it is our shared responsibility to do what we can to help. It’s like saying: we are all descendants of the Renaissance, we are all Venetians.”

to their original places. These include Saint Martial in Glory with Saints Peter and Paul (1549), in the church of San Marziale in Cannaregio; Saint Jerome’s Vision of the Virgin Mary (circa 1580), in the Venetian University; the Marriage at Cana (1561), in the Church of Santa Maria della Salute; the Crucifixion (1554-1556), currently on display

Gesuiti”) there’s the altarpiece of the Assumption of Mary, an early work by Tintoretto, initially given as a commission to Veronese. In San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti, the second altar houses Jacopo Tintoretto’s Saint Ursula and the Eleven Thousand Virgins (circa 1555). The church of San Zaccaria is home to The Birth of Saint John the Baptist, an altarpiece painted between 1546 and 1548. The church of San Giuseppe di Castello is the place where Tintoretto painted The Archangel Michael Vanquishing Lucifer in the presence of Michele Bon. In addition to The Last Supper (1579-80), Santo Stefano, where the sacristy houses a real museum of illustrious names of the Venetian Renaissance, also houses The Resurrection, Christ Washing the Feet of the Apostles and The Oration in the Orchard; works that were executed at the same time as those for the Scuola Grande of San Rocco. San Moisè, Santa Maria Zobenigo, San Silvestro, San Simeone Profeta, Santa Maria Mater Domini and the Carmini also host works by the maestro. And, finally, there’s the Basilica di San Marco where Tintoretto designed a preparatory sketch for one of its most famous mosaics. It is here, in the beating heart of Venice that Jacopo Robusti of Cannaregio, nicknamed Tintoretto, after his father, the cloth dyer, belongs.

AN AMAZING ABUNDANCE Even though this treasure trove will make your head spin, the list is not yet complete. In the church of Santa Maria Assunta (known as “i

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Antonia Sautter

Dream-like costumes As everyone knows, Venice is the city of dreams! Thanks to the splendid period costumes created by Antonia Sautter, it is now possible to make your dream come true. By Stefania Vida

"T

he mixture of my father’s German blood and the Venetian blood from my mother runs through my veins, and I inherited my restless, inquiring spirit from my forefathers. I am an artisan and a dreamer engaged in a never-ending quest in my native city, Venice.” This is how Antonia Sautter, the queen of Venice’s high society, describes herself. The famous ‘Il Ballo del Doge’ (organized every year by Antonia at Palazzo Pisani Moretta) is the most sumptuous of Carnival extravaganzas in Venice. An artistic event, a gala dinner and one of high society’s absolute ‘musts’! Just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Antonia Sautter Atelier is a magical world filled with all types of masks and costumes. A real hive 10 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

of couturier activity dedicated to the creation of made-to-measure period costumes, fashionable clothing and accessories. The exquisite fabrics, sartorial details, prints, embroidery and chromatic pairings skillfully re-elaborated and interpreted by the designer, tell a story of a passion for artisanal tradition. The craftsmanship involved in this process retains the authenticity of the production techniques used to manufacture velvets, damasks, brocades and Venetian silks. In addition, the bags, shoes, scarves, kimonos and fashion accessories are all exclusive pieces, and available for purchase at Venetia Boutiques, close to St. Mark’s Square (San Marco, 1286 Frezzeria). All products can be customized and delivered worldwide.

>> Atelier Antonia Sautter San Marco, 1628 (Calle del Carro) T: 041 2413302/5285967. Map E5 www.antoniasautter.it


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 30-31. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Rocca 1794, quality and elegance Venice’s historic Piazza San Marco acts as the perfect setting for the elegant Boutique Rocca 1794. Synonymous with high-end luxury, Rocca is renowned for its expertise, timeless heritage and consistent pursuit of innovative trends. The boutique’s sweeping window displays feature a stunning array of fine jewelry and exclusive timepieces, carefully selected from among the best Italian and international brands, with a brand new Longines corner, featuring the luxury Swiss watchmaker’s most recent collections. Distinguished by their elegant décor, chromatic nuances and state-of-the art building materials, Rocca’s boutiques represent the spirit with which the brand has always embraced modern times: class and style blend with a harmonious, contemporary design, conveying a sense of exclusivity and aesthetic sophistication. Dedication and professionalism are the core values of Rocca’s staff who welcome customers to the boutique every day. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5284732. www.rocca1794.com

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHITfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIORwww.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

PRADAwww. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

RENÉ CAOVILLA www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti. com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4

FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

CHOPARDwww.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946.

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5

12 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACE www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

Inspired by the beauty of crystal, SWAROVSKI has created a one-of-a-kind watch: the ‘Crystal Lake’ timepiece featuring a stunning dial crafted from a single piece of sparkling sapphire crystal.


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LE traits Vof Venetian shoe designer Michele De it. Castello, 5641 (Calle ND T E R near Campo San Lio). T: À BA O LT IS O RB RAMO U TA2 (Rialto stop). Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. 041 5235500. Vaporetto lineA1F Ror DEL M R IO L CORTE DEL ORA POZETO micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle Map F4 Anatema DE ORO CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line Rossana Righini delights customers with her Ca' Pesaro N S D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). RA scarves, brooches, costume Tjewelry, bags, Sofia Giuliana Longo alleria Internazionale VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN DA CA L O RT E LE A milliner boasting a longstanding family BCATA Map F4 San Lazzaro hats and silk, handmade ties. HerNwindows and d'Arte Moderna V GIA AR O VA IS D’Oro CO CORTE tradition dating back to the early 20th century, dei Mendicanti display casesCa’ express the owner’s philosophy: CAMPIELLO René CaovillaCORTESE CORTE NOVA STELLA Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started Santi Apostoli the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small CAMPIELLO working footwear factory, WIDMANN at his family’s CAMPIELLO CAL Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream TI Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10amLE OZ G DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI revealing his talent asA Ba sculptor’. L‘footwear I hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst 2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. S.Canciano Ospedale Based in Venice, he has collaborated with SS. Giovann C A Mpanama PIELLO Evangelica old-world furnishings, original hats T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 orChiesa 2 (San Tomà N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, LE Luterana ID S PASSION TIP C The and handmade headgear. UO W stop). Map D4 LE E LL Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning CA only shop in town where you can find authentic CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA line ofC "jewel shoes" he co-created with CAMPO DELLA gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Francis Model ALL San Cassiano E L ARG AN PESCARIA Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A G C A N ZI Marco, 4813 (Calle NSan . GA A www.giulianalongo.com. S Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. A D L L IN A S A LI ZA Santa Maria A-listers who adore his creations include RI CAMPO O del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears IR (Rialto stop). Map F4 has always remained faithful to the diktats of BECARIE San Giovanni Santi GiovanniHise Paolo A CO CA C A LL Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP and Sarah LL E LI CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED just steps FO R Grisostomo CA E C Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C Macrì ED lace are truly iconic! Open MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A S T pumps in Venetian EL ELL TI from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi DELLA devotes I A BO Teatro E PAOLO This shoe boutique in San Marco -Malibran its other BELLA VIENNA TA daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San CAMPO himself to his craft with pride and passion. CA LL DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Chiesa branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a ER BE Marco, E1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 dell’Ospe Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo reference point for discerning DEL MILION Venetians since the or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 CARAMPANE L San Polo,SA773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. NS LO BA RB AR ON di E3 Rialto1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, IA DE LE DE I TO LE Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map CA Casa didistinguished by RA classic men and women’s shoes, MP O CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO theirFontego Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10amDEL SOL NUOVO Giovanna Zanella 7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 dei Tedeschi O For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler AN V A CA LR L L EF4• . DE 9956.CVaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map Sant’Aponal DE L FO DEL C .M TA Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive E A RT P IO Al Duca d'Aosta EGO MB GH IN E PonteOpen dailyNT10am-7.30pm. O NG RU San Marco Frezzeria, OD SA C . PA A LLE lines of shoes for men and women at her di Rialto SA N G FO in 1902, L L E Originally established in Venice G IA CAMPO CORTE CAMPO N IOVNDA Z CORTE LIZ ZO AN ME 1583. T: DO TREVISAN ZA 041 522 8997. CAMPO R SAN APONAL DEL NI NT E SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A workshop located just a stone’s throw from the boasts stores in six LP DEL VOLTO Al Duca d’Aosta now PRESTRIN TE PIO E RA D CAMPO NO X E L L Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with itsRialto own, cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, SAN LIO CA Michele De Fina CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPOpersonality SANTA MARIA unrepeatable because they are often SAL Padua, Verona,FORMOSA Mestre, Treviso and Udine. DEI Highly select leather shoes, its ownerIZ Aoversees DE DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G enhanced by a surprise element like touches DEI PRETI The historical four-storey Venice location Aworking each stage of the process from theL IO LIAZ CA ZO LL CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Fontego E Santa L of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open C. LA creation. over 100 top Maria fashion brands for men ofCORTE theDELleather to the end RGA A Santa Maria features Dolfin ManinARGcutting MA Formosa Palazzo BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO ZZ Palazzo Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella. CORTE SABION CAMPO and women, carefully selected to offer its IN Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark I DEL MONDO della Fava

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SHOPPING clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities

11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially

Soft, ultra-light and eye-catching, this silken-effect satin padded jacket by Herno with a detachable fox fur collar is crafted using state-of-the-art padding techniques. Available at the POT-POURRÌ boutique.

curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www. mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village

T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the luxury department store offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof. www.TFondaco.com

14 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In



SHOPPING addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet. it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open MonSat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www. damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has

sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www. rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

Venice in a perfume Two fragrances, for him and her, tell the story of the essence, beauty and uniqueness of the city of Venice. They’re called Venezia Essenza and are the latest creations from The Merchant of Venice, the brand of artistic perfumery inspired by the Lagoon city and its age-old trade with the East. The brand, founded in 2013, offers a wide range of Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes, plus body and home care products. These fragrances trace Venetian history and traditions through the olfactory notes and beautiful aesthetics of the bottles. The Merchant of Venice celebrates the mosaics of St. Mark’s and decorates the shiny black background of the bottles of Venezia Essenza with gold tesserae, a perfect marriage of mystery and opulence. Venezia Essenza Pour Femme and Pour Homme, are two sophisticated Eau de Parfum Concentrée, characterized by a high fragrance density, accented by oriental heart notes. Luxurious and captivating, refined but distinctive, both fragrances epitomize the exuberant beauty of Venice. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.

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ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the


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www.otticamantovani.it GIU D E(Mercerie C C A del Capitello). San Marco, 4860 T: 041 5223427.

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Basilica di Sun and prescription glasses, most Santhe Gregorio Santa Maria della Salute technologically advanced lenses and the most Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: Spirito Santo a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. nt'Eufemia AN

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When visiting Venice for the first or umpteenth time, we hope to find something truly Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto original for an authentic shopping experience. San Francesco An object, created by skilled craftsmen della Vigna S A N P O L O Sant’Aponal that captures the essence of the place or represents a special souvenir, to be kept as a memento or a gift for familySanand friends back home. San Silvestro Lorenzo Ottica Fontego Santa Maria Basilica San Rocco Chiesa Rettoriale Santa Maria the centuries, Dolfin Manin Formosa Palazzo as with all historic cities throughout the world, Venice has cultivated Over Palazzo dei Frari di S. Polo della Fava Grimani Mantovani Rava o della Consolazione ● Palazzo that have given life Teatro San Giovanni artisanal skills to emblematic artifacts, C A Sranging T E Lfrom L Oartistic glass Querini Carlo Goldoni San Salvador di Malta Palazzo Stampalia Querini-Dubois Palazzo La Biennale di Venezia de n a Grimani Educational to paper objects, accessories, fabrics and jewelry. In today’s world, where everything is Arsenale Gr Arsenale di Venezia l a San Giuliano San Tomà Can San Giovanni Novo San Beneto San Luca La Biennale di Venezia an Pantalon manufactured and can be bought – either at shops in the city or online Teatro – those alle Tese items, Palazzo Palazzo Giustinian Nervi San Giorgio Persico Scattolin Palazzo Fortuny dei Greci based on manual work and ancient techniques that have been handed down Arsenale di Venezia Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo from generation to generation, still hold a unique value. San Zaccaria San Martino Basilica di San Marco Santa Maria San Giovanni Battista della Pietà Remember that purchasing a souvenir authentic workshops or -from S A N MSanAFantinR C O in at Bragora La Biennale di Venezia Arsenale artisans Palazzo Palazzo Ducale GrassiNorma's Santo Stefano helps Venice preserve its traditional artisanal skills and hand them down to Museo San Samuele Correr Ca' Rezzonico ● Teatro la Fenice future generations. San Moisè San Barnaba San Maurizio Palazzo Loredan CO

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Alberto Sarrias Masks ●

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro ST Santa Sofia RA Galleria Internazionale D d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro A N O V A

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Hundertwasser' Garden

Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. ISOLA LA GRAZIA

S. Servolo

SAN SERVO

www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.

NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality ISOLA MadeSAN in Italy materials. CLEMENTE

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEG

www.teodamar.com San Marco, 2995-2996 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 345 0133552. More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice

LIDO DI V w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17


SHOPPING VENETIANS

Art galleries Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com). The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice.

In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg,

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

18 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).


SHOPPING

LA PERLA GALLERY See this page.

very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

La Perla Gallery The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

VENINI

See this page.

Open daily 9am-6pm. Via Galuppi, 287-376 (Burano). T: 041 730009. Vaporetto Line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

MARINA RINALDI See page 14.

typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the

The new ‘Magnificent’ skincare line by THE MERCHANT OF VENICE contains pure 24 carat micronized gold. The four products include a day cream, a night cream, an eye cream and a serum. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m 19


ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

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CALLE ORTI

SA

CALLE DE CALLE

LARG

ROSA LARGA

VECCHIA

CALLE

CORTE

MASENA

CALLE

ordia

DE

LA

CALLE

TREVISAN

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Miseric

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

IA

Canale

MISERICORD

FOND.

Apostoli

RACHETA

LA

DE

Santi

FELICE

SAN

dei

Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

I

ZZ

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

PO

Dolce

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

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DEL

RU

Rio

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DE

LE

CALLE

TRAGHETO

DEL

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

C.

APOSTOLI

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CA’

C.SANT’ANTONIO

VERDI

CALLE

D’ORO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

C.

SANTA

ROSA

CAMPO

DEL

LA

CANNAREGIO

CALLE

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

CALLE

BOTERI

FORNO

BO

DEI

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

DONZELLA

CALLE

C.

L’ANZOLO

DE

MATTIA

CALLE

SAN

L’ARCO

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

CALLE

DE CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

CALLE

CALLE

VECCHIA

SALIZADA

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

BOMBASEI

C.

PARADISO

DEL

DEL

APRILE

CALLE

C.

II

CALLE

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

LOVO DEL

SANT’ANTONIO

CALLE

CALLE

ZULIAN

LE DE

BALBI

BALOTE

SAN

RUGA

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

C.

CALLE ZUCCHERO

CALLE

CALLE

DE ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

SALAMON

BB

IAN

RE

CO

SA

VENIER

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

SE

RI

C.

GIUSEP

PISCINA

F O N D A M E N TA

SARES

SANT'AGNESE

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

O E ANC

TI

CALLE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

AR

VIALE

M

CALL

E

CALLE

COPPO

BRAGADIN

LE

San Francesco di Paola

SCHIAVONA

TT

CALLE CORERA

PISCINA

ENA

BALD

CALLE

I S E

C A L L E C ATA PA N

FONDAMENTA

GARI

EPPE

CALLE

DE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

VA

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

INCURABILI

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

COLTRERA

CALLE

PISCINA

ETTI,

TI,

FA R S

ET RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

MEGIO DEL

STAE

FORNO

SAN

DEL CALLE

SALIZADA GRUE LE

CARMINATI

FONDAMENTA

DE

CALLE

STUA DE

LA

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA

LARGA CALLE

SANTA NTA

PICCOLO

FONDAME

SIMON SAN FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA DE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI

C.

LARGA

LIPOLI

DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI

DORSODURO

CALLE

SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

RAMO DE

CALLE

SANGIANTOFFETTI

AMEN

TANA

CALLE FRIZIER

EREMITE

FOND

DE LA

C. LOREDANA

FONDAMENTA

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

DEI CORTELLOTTI

VIDA

CROSERA

CALLE

LA

CALLE

RIO

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

ROSA

CASTELLO

NT

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

CALLE

DEI FORNI

LARGA

DI

FORNACE

SALONI

SA

COSMO

ACCADEMIA

DEI

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

PIETRO

TERRÀ

TA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

Arsenale

100 m

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

SAN

ONI

de le

RUGA VECCHIA

S C H I AV

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

RIO

VAPORETTO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora R I VA D EGLI

FON

Salute

CATECUMENI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

C. VOLTO

RIO TERRÀ

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RI

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

DEL

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

ASCENSIONE

FONDAMENTA

nzera Scome De Canale I

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN

MUNEGHE

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

TO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

a

AI DIETRO

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

enzer

CALLE

DE

VONI

BASTION

SCUDI

SCHIA

DEL

CALLE

L’ANZOLO

DEGLI

DEGLI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

NUOVE

CASTELLO

DE

CALLE

Bacin o Stazio

CELESTIA

DONA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI CALLE

R I VA

O

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

GATE

LARGA

RC

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

SCHIAVONI RIVA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

SAN

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

Palazzo

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

AM

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

DRASI

FABBRI

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

DEI PUTI

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE DELA CREA

FO

FO

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

Sant'Eufemia

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Zaccaria

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SESTIERE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEL

A N M

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

CALLE

SA

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

VERONA

LO

DEI PRETI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

LA

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

MO

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

O

Museo Correr

ZORZI SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE

DE

RC

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

C.

CALLE

ORSEOLO

Scom

Santa Maria del Pianto

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DEL

le

NOVE

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

CALLE

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

FONDAMEN TA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

ENTA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

C.

VERONA

MA

SAN

ZZA

DE CALLE

SAN

LA

PIA

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CORTE NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

CALLE ERIZZO

LIO

DE

FONDAMENTA

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

CALLE

Bacino Orseolo

CARRO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CALLE

SAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

DEL

SAN

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

Rio San Lorenzo

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

DEL

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

CAPPELLO BIANCA

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CORTE TORRETTA

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

NOVE

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

FABBRI

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

ZULIAN

ORBI

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

Salvador

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

CORNER

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

TODESCHI

CALLE

G. GALLINA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

BEMBO

C. DEI

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

E

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

BOTERI

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

REMER

DOLERA

CAFETIER

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

SAN

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SABION

C.

C.

O DEL

CALLE DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

COCCO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MORETTI

DE

DONZELA

LUCA SAN CALLE

MARCO

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio

Canal Grande

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SALIZADA

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

PONTE

SACCA SAN

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

SPIRITO

RAMO

CALLE

LA

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

DE

LE

FALIER CALLE

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

C.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

FONDAMENT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORESI

nde Canal Gra

CROSERA

S. SAMUELE

SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CARROZZE

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CALLE

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

VOLTI

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

LE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FOND.

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

S. SALIZADA

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

S.ANDREA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

S.Silvestro

DEL TEATRO

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

Cana

LA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Palazzo Grimani

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

FOND.

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

nde

NARISI FOND.

VECCHIA

CORTE LEZZE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

E

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

TRAPOLIN

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

TRAGHETTO

CA’ RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

DEL

C. DE

DE

PONTE

LA

CARAMPANE

CALLE

DI SAN MARCO

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

LE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

CALLE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

AL

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPO SAN APONAL

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

A

PERDON

DEL

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DEL

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

O

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

del

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE SAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

IC

San Felice

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

ER

CALLE

DEI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

IS

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Angelo Raffaele

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

CA'

FORNO

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

TA

TA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

FONDAMEN

DEL

TABACCHI

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

NA

RUGA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

FABBRICHE

CALLE DE L’OGIO

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE

NIE

DD

LE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

DEI

FO

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

TINTOR

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

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As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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ADVERTORIAL

VETRERIA DUCALE Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custommade items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

Fondamenta Navagero, 76 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com

VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request.

Fondamenta Navagero, 50 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739329 fax +39 041 5274367 info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21


DINING

Between tradition and creativity Amidst cultural references and culinary traditions, Bistrò da Cici reinterprets traditional Venetian cuisine using contemporary ingredients and techniques from a chef with an international reputation. By Chiara Zaccarelli

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t Bistrò da Cici, a venue located amidst the ‘calli’ surrounding the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Basilica della Salute, the culinary experience of la Serenissima lives on thanks to a menu that focuses on traditional dishes upgraded with a contemporary twist, seasonal products and local specialties. The restaurant is located inside the Hotel Salute Palace, a charming boutique hotel, housed in a typical, recently restructured Venetian palazzo. Formerly a meeting place for Venice’s cultural elite in the ‘60s and a reference point for artists collaborating with Peggy Guggenheim, the restaurant’s brigade is helmed by Executive Chef Stefano Bison, a Venetian with a cosmopolitan calling. A 37 year-old native of Treviso, he started his career at some of Europe’s

22 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

most prestigious starred restaurants and hotels. When asked to choose a signature dish that best represents his style of cooking, Bistrò da Cici’s Executive Chef said that he would choose a fish dish... from the lagoon naturally! After working at several of Europe’s most prestigious restaurants, he decided to return to the cuisine (and region) of his origin. “Tradition is an essential part of my philosophy. Our mothers and grandmothers always cooked traditional dishes, using seasonal ingredients. My aim is to do exactly the same thing”, explains Bison. “I manage to combine tradition with innovation by using fresh, high-quality ingredients. Rather than altering them, I try to enhance them by using modern culinary techniques and tools.”

>> Bistrò da Cici c/o Hotel Salute Palace Dorsoduro, 222/a. T: 041 5235404 www.salutepalace.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San

Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www. alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www. antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www. anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23


MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Dopolavoro Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

Harry’s Bar Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo). T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4


DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

Glam

Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space.

Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

PHOTOS ©EXHIBITION ANSHARPHOTO VIEW /OF SHUTTERSTOCK.COM “MACHINES À PENSER” - FONDAZIONE PRADA, VENICE PHOTO MATTIA BALSAMINI - COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA

SIGHTSEEING |

Discovering the Rialto Bridge With its markets, ‘osterie’ and artisanal ‘botteghe’, the ancient and picturesque neighbourhood of Rialto reveals one of the most authentic sides of Venice. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

R

ialto Bridge is one of the most famous and widely photographed landmarks of Venice. Not only the undisputed icon of postcards and ‘selfies’, but also the oldest bridge in the city (until 1854 it was the only means of crossing the Grand Canal on foot). The history of this iconic bridge dates back to the year 1000 when it was built as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Due to increased traffic it was replaced with a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto Bridge, due to its association with the nearby district of Rivalto, 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

or ‘high bank’. A dark period followed and the bridge was damaged several times. The daring but scenically impact-making new design (1591) submitted by Antonio da Ponte consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Today it is a heady mix of shops, eateries and architecture, where the days are marked by the cries of the vendors of its famous, bustling market and by the comings and goings of Venetians and tourists who are either in search of a traditional ‘osteria’ or ‘bacaro’ for an ‘ombra de vin’ or a ‘cicheto’, or looking to make a purchase from one of the innumerable artisanal ‘botteghe’ that flank both sides of the bridge.

THE FAMOUS MARKET Currently Venice’s market par excellence, the Rialto Market is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caughtin the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade, and a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www. chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widelyphotographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing),

Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase

PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION Thanks to its 20th century collection of art, this is one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes works by artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

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© PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION, VENICE. PH. ANDREASARTI/CAST1466

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Palazzo Ducale

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E4

Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr

The ‘Man with leather bag’ (1897) sculpture by Belgian artist George Minne is on display at Venice’s International Gallery of Modern Art in CA' PESARO.

28 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2018

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4 Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3


Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

ESSENTIALS UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m 29


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TE

Chiesa di Santa Caterina

C A M PA LT O

OC C. B

FO

MALLEO CALLE

CAO

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

C.CALZEVERDE

A LO DESTR

RA LO SINIST

EI S Q

RCE

DI

LLO

CO

RT

AR

FONDAMENTA

MAZZORBO

BAGARON

M E N TA

INEL N TA P O N T

SC

INEL N TA P O N T

VIA

FONDA

FONDAME

SA

FONDAME

11 VIA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

RI

H

UE

G

F

100 m

MESTRE

TORCELLO

BURANO

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 10

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

1

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

LO

ZA

NI

OL

EN

GE

A AS C

L C O

LA EL

E D E

.D AL

NO

G

LL

I

LE

CA

O

FO

ND

ND

AM

E N TA S E

AME

N TA

SA

CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

BA

N

ST

SAN

L O

SA

Chiesa S. Erasmo

NZ O

FO

CRISTO DEL

RO

CAMPO S A N D O N AT O

O M LE E D A VI

E

N

TA

CALL

M

SANT’ERASMO

FO

N

Ponte Lungo

DELLA MULA

MURANO

DA

D

A

FONDAMENTA

TT

E

MIST

IA N TI S G O

ER

C

NI

E AN GE

VE

IU

TA

LO D AL

EN

N

AM

R

ND

CALLE

CALLE

SERENELLA

MULA

DA

ANTON

N TA

I

O

E FONDA M

RAMO

QUIRIZIO

F O N D A M E N TA D E I V E T R A I

DEI

ZANETTI

CAMPIELLO

CI

DELLA DELLA

NI

PRË

UC

PESCHERIA

A M

IN

CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A

AN

R

M

O B

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EN

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D

EL

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O

LI

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M

IO

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LE

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LE

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M

DA

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LE

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TT

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M

Faro di Murano

AL

VE

AL

C

AI

IO

LLA F O N D A M E N TA S E R E N E

FO

N

D

AM

I

AL

ENT

LI

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TI

TO

TA

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C

O

PESCHERIA

CALLE

AN

DEL

I

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ORT

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NA

A SAN GIOV

LI RO G

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IET LE D OLO

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CALL

BERTOLINI

TI

FO

N

D

AM

EN

TA

D

CALLE

FONDAM

CO

CALLE

Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

CA

CIPRIANO SAN CALLE

CAVALLINO TREPORTI

NTI

RE

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

GIUSEPPE

CALLE

SA

US

GN

LP

COLORATA

BR

MA

C

GIA LLE

CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE

VIVARINI

A.

SACCA

LIO

LL

L'A CA

E C E

CA

DEL

SAN

CAL

LE

SALVADOR

FO

TERA’

Santa Maria degli Angeli

PARMENSE

LL

E V O

RTI

STRADA

CA

RADI

CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE

NO

MURANO

TA’

AN

IA

ER

PORTO MARGHERA

E

A

B

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

LI

CRISTOFORO

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GIANMARIA

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENTA

LA

RIO

CALLE

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

EL

FONDAMENTA

ORTES CALLE

D

M

LE

LL

NV

CA

Cimitero Nuovo

A

TO

COLORATA

VI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

VIA

MASENA

ROTONDA

CANOSSIANE

CALLE

DE

LARGA

LA DE

a

CALLE

Apostoli Santi

DEI

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

CALLE

CORDONI DEI STELLA

CALLE CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL CALLE

TESTA DE

LA

Rio

Dei

BANDI

MENDICANTI

FONDAMENTAMendicanti

CALLE

CALLE

CASTELLO

GIUSTINA

CAPPUCCINE CALLE

SANTA

DEGLI

ORTI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE CAVALLI

MURAZZO

PIETA’

CALLE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAPPELLO

CALLE

CALLE

RAMO

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

MAGNO

Nuove Fondamenta delle

GRECI

CALLE DEI

Canale

STRETA SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

CALLE

DE

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA CALLE

CALLE

DOSE DEL

PE

ISEPO

SANT'ANTONIO

COLONNE CALLE

FONDAMENTA

C. D EL

LE

CAR

XXIV M AGG

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

SO

GEN

ERA

CH

LE

INO

TTO

C.

ZU

SS

CAL

PA

A

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

LL

E

CA

RN

AR

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

ER

CA

LL

SA

CA

E

Teatro Verde

N

F.

GN

Japan Pavilion

CO

MAGGIORE

NI

EMB

RE

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

I

N

A

N

LA

VA

EL

IO

AR

G

E

MA

DI

GR

MO

RT

VI

E

AN

CA

LL

E

MA

SO

AL

E

N

VI

TT

OR

IO

VI

VE

AL

NE

RI

VI O

RA

E

IV

NO

VE

Lido S. Nicolo' M

BR

SANT’ELENA

E

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

TO

R E

RO

G

UE

N

SQ

IA

K

LO

LI

E

LL

E

DE

LL

A

FO

ND

IA

V

ER

Ò

CA

OL

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

CALLE DEL FORNO

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

C.

PARADISO

DEL

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

C.

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

FORNO

BO

DEL

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

C.

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LE RASSE

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

DEL

RU

Rio

VELE DE

LE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

E

LL

RIO CROCE

STRETTA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

C.

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

LA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

DE

FA R S

ET

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

C.

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

C.

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

LA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

DE

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

DE

DE

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CALLE

CALLE

LL

CA

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

MP

CA

O

CA

SANT'ELENA

LL

GE

Rio

N

NO

SA

I

IE

SANT'ELENA

TA

TI

EN

C

AM

BO

D

LI

N

SA

LL

BB

TE

E

ZI

TA

NT

EN

Parco delle Rimembranze

MP

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

AM

CA

O

E

U I P

LL

M

DEI

US

TERÀ

PALUDO

ND

E

CA

IN

OC

C.

CR

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

TA

RD

GRANDE

GI

N

RIO

IA

CALLE

SA

TA

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

G

PONTE

EN

E

CALLE

AM

ND

AL

CORTE

FO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Giardini

S. Giorgio

VI

FIANCO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

EP

O

SAN GIACOMO

A

IST

LL

ACCADEMIA

CE

R L C

IB PE GAR

NA

RI

DE

MA

ION

Lungo

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

C.

EN

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

BB

IAN

RE

RI

CO

SA

SE

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

FONDAMENTA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LE

CALLE FRIZIER

GARI

EPPE

C. LOREDANA

I S ET

AN

CALLE

ENA

CALLE

DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

RAMO DE

CALLE

ND

CALLE

E

LE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

DI

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

SAN

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

IA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

'EU

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

TA

CALLE

S C H I AV

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

DE

Spirito Santo

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

DEGLI

VERONA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEI FORNI

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Arsenale

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

100 m

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

RI

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

a

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

LARGA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

BEMBO

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

Museo Correr

SALUTE

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

AI

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

CALLE

DE

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

CALLE

DOLERA

DIETRO

FABBRICHE

CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

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Santa Maria del Giglio

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Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

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Palazzo Grimani

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Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

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Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

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People Mover Venezia

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ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS

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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Hotel Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5

NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4

Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC E CITY GUIDE NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)

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