Where Magazine Venice Dec 2019 by Morris Media Network

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

DECEMBER 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE How to make your Christmas in the city unique ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

V enice through a lens Top events, treasures and places to be

吃喝玩乐尽在这里

Venice December 2019 38

SIGHTSEEING

the guide

DINING

22 SHOPPING

New trends and design meet in St. Mark’s Square at the latest Christian Dior boutique.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

30 DINING

GIFT GUIDE Pomellato

36 ENTERTAINMENT

Parco San Giuliano

OND ROT

HIA

ROS

ERI

stol ti Apo San

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA STE

CAL

LE CAL

MENTA

ZATTER

AMEN

E ALLO

SPIRIT

CALLE ZUCCHERO

ETTO

FONDA

BILI

FOND

E AI GESUA TI

INCURA

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CALLE

MENTA

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TEST A LA

DOSE E DEL CALL

NAVE

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VOLT

TAR

DEL

FRU

PAR

DEL

CAL

ADI

DEL

EDIO REM

San Gio

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

CALLE DE

LARGA

SAN

CALLE

MARCO

CANONI DE LA

Palazzo Ducale

A N M

VONI SCHIA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

LO SA AI RE TE ZAT TA EN

San

VAPOR

AM ND

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo

BIA

Sant'Eufemia FO

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ANDO

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ANE

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CALLE

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CAL

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CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

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Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

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CALLE

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

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CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa M Formo

BANDE

LE CAL

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Ca' Giustinian

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CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

TERRÀ

PISCINA

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MENTA

DE LE

FONDA

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

NANI

SAN

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

ZZA

VALLAR

CALLE

AMEN

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Basilica di San Marco

Museo Correr

CALLE

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DEL

MEG E DEL CALL

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FOR

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CALLE

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CALLE

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

Salute

RIO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

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Rio

DEL TRAGHETTO

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

LE CAL

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CALL GABRI E

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Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

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San Giuliano

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Bacino Orseolo

San Moisè

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CAMPIELLO STELLA

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CALLE

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DEI

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DRIO

C. DEL CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CALLE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

FRUTAR

LAR

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

WID

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

LE CAL

CALLE

CORTE

CAMPO

BALO TE

IVO RED

San Fantin

MICHIEL

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

DEL

SAN

CALLE GOLDONI

RTA

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

MAR ZARI A DEL

ZEN MAGA

MARCO

ETIE

VERO

CAOTO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

CAMPO SAN LIO

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

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LE CAL

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CALLE

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CALLE

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C.DE

DEI

DEL

VAR ISCO

S.Canciano

RIO

Teatro Malibran

San Salvador r

A LUC

LE CAL

SAN

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

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CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

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DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CORTE DEL

RNIN PATE

MAND

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TERÀ

MAZ ZINI

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C. DE LE COLONNE

RIO

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAL

RAMO

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CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

DEL

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DEL

BARBA

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CALLE

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ANG

Rialto

LE CAL

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DEL FORNO

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VER

CAL

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE DEL NAVARO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

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SALIZADA

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PAR

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CAMPO DEI GESUITI

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RIO

DE L

CAPP

CALL

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin

CALLE DEL BASTION

CATE

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

DOL

DEI LAVRANE

Palazzo Grimani

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CHIES

San Giovanni Grisostomo

Teatro Carlo Goldoni OPIA PISC

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

DELLA

ULI

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Beneto San Luca

Canal Grande

CALLE

PRI

CAL LE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ENT A

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

LLI CAVA

SACCA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

NER COR

GNES

San Maurizio

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

NT'A

SAN

SALIZAD

San Silvestro

de ran

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

FONDAME

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LARGA

RAVA

DEL

E CALL

NANI

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PON

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

CAL

E CALL

CALLE CHIESA

REA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

DELLA

ETA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

C.SA

DEL

SAN

BOT EGH E

CAMPO PISANI

DAM

RIO

CALLE

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

RUGH

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia DEL PISTOR

STU

ENTA

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FOND.

Santa Sofia

DEL

CRO SER A

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San Vidal

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

FON

FOND

FON

DEI

FAL

CAL

DAM

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Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

MUT I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

LE CAL

Palazzo Loredan

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

. NARI

Accademia

FONDA

CA’

Palazzo Fortuny

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

FOND

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STU A

OZZE CARR

CAL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BOT A

Sant’Aponal

TI OCA

CAL

CALLE

DON SAN PER

MAN

E DE CALL

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

LINI

AMP ANE

AVV

BON

CAR

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

DI SAN MARCO

E UEL SAM

S. Samuele

CALLE

DEL

TER

ENTA

DAM

DA IZA SAL

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

RIO

LON

CAL

CARAMPANE À

al G

SESTIERE

CA’

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

CHI TODES

PON

CAL LE

CALLE BERNARDO

San Trovaso

TER

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

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S.Silvestro

Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

Ca' Rezzonico

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

San Cassiano

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

San Tomà

C. DEI

SANT

L’AG NEL LA

LE SAMUE

OGNI

RIN PEST

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CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

San Barnaba

TIOZ

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

SERA

CAMPO APONAL

A S. PISCIN

L’ASE

CAL

SER

E CALL

CRO

DEI

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

E CRO

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INI

Abazia della Misericordia D

GALIZ

CAL

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

TER

LET

DEI

E DEL CALL

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FON

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SCA

CALL

FOND

NTA

DE INC INI

DEL

CALL

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AME

TRAG

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

FOD S. Basilio

BOL

ANI GRIM

PRET

CAL

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CA’BCAL ONVLE

SAN POLO

DEI PUTI

IAN

ENTA

E ZANE

CALLE

AST

FONDAM

TOMÀ

Basilica dei Frari

FOMO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

E CALL

E DEI

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SEB

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SAN

BESAG

SAN

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

A ENT

DA SAN

CALL

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

DAM

DORSODURO

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TTO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FON

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

NT AR

rto

San Felice

CAMPO SAN STIN

nde Canal Gra

min

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

MEZ

TTO

del

S.Stae

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TALO

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DEL

PAN

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DEL

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

GHE

Rio

SAN

TRA

IAT

CAL

OCHE

DEL

CALL

OCH

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ORE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TINT

San Pantalon

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

C. DE

DIA

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

ete

ERA

CAL

RIO TERA’

TERÀ

Santa Fosca

E TRON

CAL

DON

RIO

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

DE LA VIDA

CAL

E DOL

A SAN

CALL

SSA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

LAR

LAC

San Rocco

NUOVO

Angelo Raffaele

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FON

DON

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CALL

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CALL

CALLE

MENTA

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CALL

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

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RAM

ALE

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

RAMO

OTT

lla

GO RTE OPO SOT

CALLE DE LA LACA

CAM

CALLE

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CAL

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

RIELO

CAL

LA TT

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA BELA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

ENT A MIN

CALLE

NTA

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Del

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C.VE

TIN

DAM

CALLE CONTARINA

La Maddalena

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CAL

RAG

DE L’OGIO

TERA’

CAL

RIO

Rio

’

LORENZ

OLO

C. SAN

NIC

LUN

BAR

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

URATI

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

CERER

ERI

L' ARZE

CALLE

MATTA DI CA’

LAR

TA PROC

FON

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

TA DE

A A MART SANT

DEI AMAI

CALLE

AMEN

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

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DEI

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MENTA

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FON

CAZZIO

FONDA

FOND

AMEN

CAS

CAM

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MENTA

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San Nicola da Tolentino

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CALLE

o Rio Nuov

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FOND

CALLE

FOND

TAB

TERÀ

RIO

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TERÀ

ICA

NUO

TA FABBR

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AMEN

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

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CAL

FOND

People Mover Venezia

TRONCHETTO

PAPADOPOLI

À D E

E C A

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

San Simeone Profeta

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

Soranzo Cappello

'AN

BAR

LIS

Giardino di Palazzo

NTIN

TOLE

FONDAMENTA

Sant'Andrea

. DEI

Ponte della Costituzione

TER

Ferrovia

FON

RIO

TÀ ER

P.le Roma

CALLE

QUERIN

CALLE

TER

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIAS

A RIVA

HIVIO

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

People Mover Venezia

O ITTI

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

SALITA

ENT

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

CAT

LLE

MER

icordi

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

RIO

DAM

E DEL PISTO

LAR

Riva de Biaso

FON

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DIR

CALL

nde l Gra Cana

Ponte degli Scalzi

Miser

San Leonardo

I CALLE ORSETT

della

Rio

SAN LEONARDO

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

A ST

RUG

D S. LEONAR R I O T E R À CAMPO

San Geremia

AG SP

ISO

Rio

DEL

RO SA PE E LL CA

CAL LE

CAL

LO EL RI E LL CA

TER

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

RIO

LL CA

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

ALZ

I SC

ICO

Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste. S A N TA C R O C E Real temples of cuisine where tradition, innovation and research meet. Discover the new list of restaurants from the Michelin Guide 2020. DORSODURO Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

MIS

Santa Maria di Nazareth

RÀ

A DELL

VECCHIO

ONN

CALLE TRAGHETTO

LER

ER LE P

A E M

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

People Mover Venezia

CAL

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

RESTAURANTS DE

MAD

» MAP PAGES 46-47 FO

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

ENTA

CAL

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

NAR

Cann EGI O aregio

DAM

ISO

CAN

LAR

CAL

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

le di

CAL

ITEL SE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

FON

CANNAREGIO

LLO

DAM

CanaENTA CAN

San Girolamo

ORB I

RI CE

INE

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

CAP FO

MASEN

G PIAV

LAR

IAN

E DEL

CALL

N G IR

GIO

CAMPO SAFFA

LIB

Several charming destinations in Veneto, infused with nature, history and art.

FON

Like us on facebook.com/WhereVenice

OF THE REGION

34 MICHELIN-STARRED NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

LL DE

20 ALL THE ALLURE

San Giobbe

issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines

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www.whereitalia.com/venice Download all issues www.magzter.com Digital magazine store

With its markets, osterie and artisanal 'botteghe', this is one of the most authentic sides of Venice.

RTI

STAY IN TOUCH ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

18 DISCOVERING RIALTO

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEI

B AT

CAL LE

MUN EGH E

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ise

CAL LE

nt'Alv

Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

di Sa

la Sen

TTI

STIAN

del

Rio O COLE

ADIN

.A CARL

Rio

FOND

R SEBA

OSS

Parco

ITEN

BRAG

PEN

VENIE

LAR

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

AMEN

CAL

’

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

F O N D A M E N TA

FOND

LUNGO

ONTE

NVE

LL VE E CC GH HI ET O TO

CAL

AMEN

Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

RESTAURANTS

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

Livio Seguso, Il Gioco (1980). Clear glass and stainless steel. On show at Museo del Vetro (Murano) until 12 April 2020.

Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer.

33 TOP HOTEL

L’ARC

COVER IMAGE

December is the gift-giving month par excellence. Take advantage of the holiday season to purchase special gifts for your loved ones.

MUR

44 ESSENTIALS

E DRIO

吃喝玩乐尽在这里

10 GIFT GUIDE

CALL

Top events, treasures and places to be

TOP BRANDS

The best fashion designers in Venice for your high-end shopping.

E SAN

V enice through a lens

art exhibitions, and events.

CALL

P O R T O M A R GThis H Emonth's R A round-up of shows,

24 LUXURY

’

EREMIT

FONDA

ILI

6 HOT DATES

NOB

Teatro La Fenice, one of Italy’s most prestigious opera houses, is a symbol of Venice.

GRAN

A DEI

NUOVE

CASE

ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

I CASE

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE How to make your Christmas in the city unique

Contents

DELLE

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

CALLE

DECEMBER 2019

38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

ISOLA CAMPALTO

MENTA

FONDA

VENICE CITY GUIDE

ISOLA D

Located just two hours from Venice, the Dolomites are an ideal destination for a weekend getaway, especially in winter.

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

Harry's bar is a mustvisit destination, renowned for its sophisticated, oldworld atmosphere.

WELCOME TO VENICE Welcome to Venice dear visitor. During these autumn months, the Lagoon sometimes makes us remember the nature of this magical city. Suddenly the waters rise and show us a different side of the city. This makes your visit and our lives more difficult. But it’s when the waters cover the city that Venice goes back in Andrea Jarach history to a time when its founding fathers took Publisher refuge in the environment created by the waters Where ® and their magical equilibrium. Despite the huge mobile dams that now exist, nature still performs its eternal job. So, if you’re visiting Venice during these days, in spite of the challenges, you will live the experience that defined the city for centuries. Live the experience and be patient. Venice is water but sometimes water is Venice.

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION

Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

Paola Grilli (paola.grilli@whereitalia.com) HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL  ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

EDITOR'S TIP

PHOTO © HERACLES KRITIKOS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Doge's Palace

2 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION

MVP

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Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 1

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 4 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 6 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 5 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a

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pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561.

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 2 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 3

SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 7 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

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CHRISTMAS CONCERT

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THE GOLD OF ST.MARK’S

Every year it’s customary to stage DECEMBER the traditional Christmas Concert of the Fondazione Teatro La Fenice, under the magnificent golden mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica. The Choir of the Marciana Chapel, conducted by Maestro Marco Gemmani, will perform evocative sonatas and arias by Giovanni Legrenzi, an Italian composer and organist of the Baroque era. Giovanni Legrenzi - Christmas at St. Mark’s 1670 Basilica di San Marco www.teatrolafenice.it

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DECEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

BY ELENA PEVERATA

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES EXHIBITION

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FLEMISH TREASURES

► The exhibition titled ‘From Titian to Rubens. SEPTEMBER MARCH 2019 2020 Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections’ at Palazzo Ducale treats visitors to a breathtaking sight: the magnificent Doge’s apartments decorated with the greatest masterpieces from the rich Flemish collections. In addition to canvases of inestimable worth by artists including Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of sophisticated works. These masterpieces from Flemish collections are rarely lent, and some of them are being shown to the public for the first time.

From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections. Palazzo Ducale - Appartamento del Doge, San Marco 1. www.visitmuve.it

HERITAGE

TITIAN, JACOPO PESARO, BISHOP OF PAPHOS, BEING PRESENTED BY POPE ALEXANDER VI TO SAINT PETER (1511-1513 CA.) © ROYAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS ANTWERP.

GLASS

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CRYSTAL DREAMS

▼ This exhibition is a major tribute to Livio Seguso, the brilliant master of contemporary glass. A native of Venice, Seguso broke with Murano’s OCTOBER APRIL 2019 2020 traditional heritage to concentrate on pure, iridescent, transparent crystal. His works are an expression of absolute purity, ‘Images of light’ transformed into a series of dream-like shapes. The exhibition also features several large-scale works, in which crystal is combined with steel, stone, marble and wood.

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THE MARVELS OF A MUSEUM REDISCOVERED

▲ After four centuries, this exceptional exhibition celebrates the temporary return to Palazzo Grimani of the collection of classical statues and furniture that once belonged to Patriarch of Aquileia, Giovanni Grimani. The works are displayed in the sequence of rooms (the Camaron d'Oro, Sala a Fogliami and Antitribuna), leading to the Tribuna, which was built to house more than 130 sculptures, amongst the most precious in the collection.

MAY 2019

MAY 2021

Domus Grimani 1594-2019. The collection of classical sculptures reassembled in its original setting after four centuries. Museo di Palazzo Grimani di Santa Maria Formosa. Castello, 4858 polomusealeveneto.beniculturali.it

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LIVIO SEGUSO. In the beginning it was a drop. Museo del Vetro. Murano. museovetro.visitmuve.it LIVIO SEGUSO, DOPPIA ELLISSE (1979). PHOTO © TAKAKO SAKURADA

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FERDINANDO SCIANNA, MARPESSA , CALTAGIRONE, 1987 © FERDINANDO SCIANNA

EVENTS NEW YEAR’S EVE IN VENICE

▼ La Fenice’s New Year’s Eve concert is one of the highlights DECEMBER JANUARY of the festive season. The concert 2020 2019 is broadcast live on the morning of 1 January in numerous countries throughout the world. The 17th edition of this prestigious event, comprising a two-part program, will once again be conducted by Myung-Whun Chung, director of Teatro La Fenice’s Orchestra and Choir (see photo). The first part is purely orchestral and will feature a performance of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy’s Symphony No. 4 in A major major, while the second part, involving the participation of soloists and the Choir, will be dedicated to melodrama. As tradition dictates, the concert will end with the chorus ‘Va’ pensiero’ from Nabucco, and the ‘Libiam ne’ lieti calici’ toast from Giuseppe Verdi’s La traviata.

New Year’s Eve Concert Teatro La Fenice. Campo San Fantin, 1965 www.teatrolafenice.it

MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG © SILVIA LELLI

JANUARY 2020 6 January Regata delle Befane A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro. FEBRUARY 2020 8-25 February Carnival of Venice Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas. APRIL 2020 25 April Festa di San Marco or Feast of St. Mark In addition to being a national holiday, on this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city. MAY 2020 23-24 May Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ ceremony.

PHOTOGRAPHY

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A REPORTER’S LIFE

▲ This retrospective is dedicated to renowned AUGUST FEBRUARY Sicilian photographer 2019 2020 Ferdinando Scianna, a key figure on the contemporary international scene, and the first Italian reporter to become a member of the prestigious Magnum photographic agency. The exhibition traces more than 50 years of the Sicilian photographer’s career through 180 black and white photos photos, divided into three sections, alongside a series of fashion images that Scianna shot in Venice, testifying to his close relationship with the Lagoon city.

Ferdinando Scianna. Journey Story Memory. Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 – Giudecca. www.treoci.org

23 May-29 November Biennale Architettura 2020 “How will we live together?” will be the theme of the 17th International Architecture Exhibition. Architect and scholar Hashim Sarkis is the curator of the exhibition. 31 May Vogalonga 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. JUNE 2020 23-28 June Feast of San Piero de Casteo JULY 2020 18 July Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca canals, and fireworks.

SEPTEMBER 2020 2-12 September International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art The 77th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia, and runs at Lido di Venezia. The Festival also organises retrospectives and tributes to major figures. 6 September Regata Storica /Historic Regatta One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. 11 September-11 October Homo Faber An unprecedented showcase of the finest European craftsmanship at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini (Isola di San Giorgio): an international cultural event to showcase fine contemporary, traditional and rare craftsmanship and its link to the world of creativity and design. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9

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Gift

Guide

▼ CA' MACANA One of the purest expressions of Venetian craftsmanship, this ‘Eye Mask Ketty 3’ in papier-mâché is entirely handmade and decorated according to age-old techniques. www.camacana.com

Take advantage of the holiday season to give a special gift for your loved ones and to make your Christmas in Venice unique. Where® brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

▲ BOTTEGA VENETA The ‘Daisey’ bag is created in a new eco-sustainable material produced in Italy and obtained thanks to the recycling of natural fennel fibres and cork processed by hand using a special press to obtain a structured, waterproof material. www.bottegaveneta.com

FOR HER FURLA

The reversible ‘Belvedere’ belt is crafted in smooth, printed calf skin. Embellished with the Furla Shield logo in shiny galvanized bronze, it lends itself to all types of ensembles. www.furla.com

▼ JIMMY CHOO In bubblegum-pink and red leather, this chic ‘Love’ pump is designed with a dramatic pointed toe, and cut higher on the foot, to allow for more coverage. The thin 85mm stiletto heel is suited to both day and nighttime wear. www.jimmychoo.com ► PRADA Prada’s accessories for this season include the Saffiano wallet featuring an elegant, minimalist design, illuminated by logo lettering and a zip. The zipper pull with an enameled metal triangle charm adds a vibrant touch to the whole. www.prada.com

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▼ OTTICA MANTOVANI Not only sun and prescription glasses, advanced and comfortable lenses, and fashionable frames, but also unique models like this pair inspired by one of the brand’s most famous clients and icons of style, Peggy Guggenheim. www.otticamantovani.com

▼ LORO PIANA Gloves in knitted vicuña, with palms in tonal Capibara leather. The combination of these two materials gives the gloves a sporty, sophisticated feel, adding an exclusive touch to more elegant outerwear. it.loropiana.com

FOR HIM

▲ VERSACE Inspired by the anatomy of the great white shark, the outsole of the ‘Squalo’ sneakers evokes the shape of the animal's jaws. Leather details feature signature Versace top-stitching as a celebration of the brand’s heritage. www.versace.com

▼ FRATELLI ROSSETTI Cap toe Oxford shoe made of calfskin. The special artisanal treatment gives the leather a shiny effect. The upper recalls the style of the Anglo-Saxon Oxford shoe with jagged edging and holes. www.fratellirossetti.com

▼ CHURCH'S Original and practical, this folding travel shoe horn with a pouch is available in red, blue, petrol blue, walnut, green, light brown and black. www.church-footwear.com

▲ LOUIS VUITTON The ‘Christopher’ backpack is an ideal everyday accessory. A versatile model, with outdoor appeal, it is characterized by its roomy interior and sophisticated style. it.louisvuitton.com

► GIORGIO ARMANI Elegant, and in perfect Armani style, this Fedora-style hat is made from wool and rabbit fur with a laser-cut brim and contrasting ribbon detail. www.armani.com

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▲ CAFFÈ FLORIAN Established in 1720, Caffè Florian serves a blend of coffee beans named ‘Venezia 1720’ (pictured here in a beautifully decorated tin) and created exclusively for the brand: 100% Arabica from Brazil and Central America. www.caffeflorian.com

TO TASTE ▲ VIZIOVIRTÙ Renowned for its artisanal creation of chocolates, biscuits, candies, peanut brittle and all types of sweet artistic creations, these soft-centred pralines are one of the prize products sold at this famous Venetian chocolate shop. www.viziovirtu.com

► FERRERO ROCHER A unique specialty offering a multisensory taste experience. A tempting combination of smooth chocolaty cream surrounding a whole hazelnut within a delicate, crisp wafer all enveloped in milk chocolate and finely chopped hazelnuts, wrapped in sparkling gold foil. An elegant box that brings glamour to every occasion. Available at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. www.dfs.com TORREFAZIONE CANNAREGIO

A re-visitation of the classic ‘Bacio di Dama’, enriched with a touch of Cafè Remer which enhances the delicate flavour of the pastry. These ‘Basi in Gondola’ are a delectable specialty that pair perfectly with a cup of coffee. www.torrefazionecannaregio.it

▲ DOLCE&GABBANA This high quality product is based on a collaboration between the creativity of Dolce&Gabbana and the confectionery artistry of Fiasconaro: typical Milanese panettone revisited with the ingredients and flavours of Sicily. A perfect blend of tradition and modernity. www.dolcegabbana.it

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► CA’ DEL BOSCO A Franciacorta Rosé from pinot nero grapes: a meticulous vinification and seven years’ patient refinement in the bottle. ‘Cuvée Annamaria Clementi Rosé’ is dedicated to the woman who founded Ca' del Bosco. Available at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. www.dfs.com

SWAROVSKI

Designed to add a joyful touch of sparkle to your home, this Christmas set includes ‘Santa’s Hat’ – perfect for hanging on the tree – and the traditional star available in a brilliant red version with 90 facets. www.swarovski.com ▲ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Aptly named ‘Convivio’, this room fragrance celebrates the art of joie de vivre and sharing. The top notes are Calabrian bergamot, grapefruit and carrot seed, followed by sophisticated base notes of cashmere wood, frankincense and ambrox. www.salvatoreferragamo.com

▲ ST ORIGAMI A real ‘work of art’, this reproduction of the Basilica di San Marco has been created to decorate greeting cards. A technique that combines the ancient art of origami with the vibrancy of a pop-up movement. www.storigami.it

▲ TESSITURA LUIGI BEVILACQUA Upholstered in a sophisticated velvet called ‘Fresie’, this lined cushion has a zipper closure. An expression of superb Venetian craftsmanship. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com

HOME

▼ TOD'S Scented candle with Blue Sky fragrance and Tod's logo, embellished by geometric detailing on the lid. To warm the atmosphere, during the cold winter season. www.tods.com

VENINI

The vases of the new ‘Tonino Lamborghini’ collection embody the excellence of Italian design, amidst ancient glass working techniques, sculptoral gestures and references to the Toro brand’s heritage of mechanical engineering. venini.com

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▼ BURBERRY The new ‘Fresh Glow Gel Stick’ is an innovative aloe vera and water gel-based foundation and concealer that provides flawless, medium to high coverage with weightless wear. it.burberry.com

BEAUTY

▼ CHANEL A scented body gel that exudes all the freshness and softness of the notes of N°5. Inspired by the silky harmony of rose and jasmine, ‘Fragments d’Or’ leaves the skin delicately scented. www.chanel.com

▼ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE Together with ‘Venetian Blue’ and ‘Red Potion’, this new ‘Rosa Moceniga’ set, featuring a stylized reproduction of Ca’ d’Oro, is a gift idea for women who enjoy pampering themselves. www.themerchantofvenice.com

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▲ HUGO BOSS Eau de toilette and shower gel from ‘The Scent’ line; a new, attractive men’s perfume. This irresistible fragrance features notes of ginger, exotic maninka and leather. www.hugoboss.com

▲ DIOR This ‘5 Couleurs’ limited edition couture palette, featuring chromatic harmonies to create dazzling party makeup looks, and the Diorific Vernis’ nail enamel, a top coat of colourful glitter, are part of the new ‘Happy 2020’ collection. www.dior.com

► SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER A part of the ‘Dolfin’ collection – the Venetian word for prow iron – these white and yellow gold earrings embellished with 87 diamonds are an artistic interpretation of the emblem of Venice’s most iconic boat, the gondola. www.salvadori-venezia.eu

▲ TIFFANY & CO. Inspired by the iconic key ring from 1969, the ’Return to Tiffany’ collection is a classic reinvented. This delicate duo of engraved tags on a simple link chain exudes sophistication and elegance. www.tiffany.it

JEWELS

DAMIANI

The bracelets of the ‘Margherita’ collection are intriguing, dazzling masterpieces. A collection featuring a blend of the classic and the modern with an elegant design that reproduces the natural beauty of this flower. www.damiani.it

▲ POMELLATO For 2019, Iconica’s sensual curves are sculpted into daring new items of jewelry that combine gold and put colorful twists on jewelry settings: the rings sparkle with a rainbow of gem colors set into the star, triangle, oval and square shapes that distinguish the collection. www.pomellato.com

▼ NARDI VENEZIA The ‘Moretto’ is an item of jewelry that encapsulates the classical image of Shakespeare’s Othello and the refined goldsmith’s techniques of 18th century Venice. Dressed in characteristic attire, with a turban, the ‘Moretti’ are embellished by stylistic details. www.nardi-venezia.com

▲ CARTIER Roman numerals, blue apple-shaped hands, a winding mechanism crowned with a sapphire and a railtrack minute circle: the ’Ronde Louis Cartier’ watch is a classic timepiece. www.cartier.it

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WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE

gondola

All about the

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8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century.

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Private gondolas no longer exist and the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim.

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Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized

oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier

– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

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PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from

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a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric

elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

The allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. In terms

Bassano del Grappa

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the Castle of Miramare in Trieste offering a charming panoramic view and the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, a Renaissance marvel.

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Verona

of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence.

Verona: founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one

Trieste, Castle of Miramare

Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: the port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the

PHOTO © TRAVELVIEW / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21

.C E T R R A V E L E

PHOTOS © KRISTEN PELOU

SHOPPING

J’aDior Venice New trends and design meet in St. Mark’s Square at the latest Christian Dior boutique. A must-visit destination for men and women’s haute couture. By Giulia Minero

t’s not surprising that the beating heart of the Serenissima and shopping are home to an exclusive Christian Dior boutique. Located just steps from Palazzo Ducale and its treasures, this elegant space, whose picturesque interiors are reminiscent of the Ville Lumière, encompasses the entire creative world of the Maison of Parisian fashion. It is here that both women’s and men’s collections, designed respectively by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones, are displayed. A new, spacious boutique, where the cozy atmosphere of an old-world boudoir, featuring warm colours and soft velvets, are combined with objets d’art and contemporary furniture by Paola Castelli and Belgian designer Ramy Fischler. Cannage,

22 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

the graphic motif that’s reminiscent of the Napoleon III chairs used by Christian Dior to seat guests, embellishes the parquet floor, and is a nod to the city of Paris. Here, in addition to the new prêt-à-porter collections for men and women, shopping enthusiasts can find a wide selection of footwear, sunglasses and small leather goods. As a tribute to the Lagoon city, and to mark the opening of the Venetian boutique, Maison Dior created an exclusive line of limited edition T-shirts bearing the inscription “J'adior Venice”. >> Piazza San Marco, 1255 T: 041 2411636. Map F4 www.dior.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2(San Tomà stop). Map D4

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

DOLCE&GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5

The metal closure of this iconic Furla ‘Metropolis’ Ruby bag is decorative yet strongly recognizable. It can be carried as a shoulder or a crossbody bag.

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

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Diamond Atelier offers exceptional an Maurizio quality standards that include only CAMPO San Moisè SAN MOISE’ certified gemstones (St. Mark’s Square, Santa Maria 67 and Cannaregio, 2342). For lovers CAMPO del Giglio Salvadori awaits you at N MAURIZIO of timepieces, CAMPO the Rolex Boutique (St. Mark’s Square, SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO CORTE 44) and Panerai Boutique (St. Mark’sBAROZZI Palazzo Square, 47). CORTE

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of weaving on original looms thatLEonce belonged 12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 ND TER V O LT À BA IS O RBA FRU RAMO to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO 9.30am-4pm T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria DE ORO (Sat-Sun by appointment). Antichi Splendori CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art Ca' Pesaro N S D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia T: DEL 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio RA alleria Internazionale and antiques, the mission of Tthis highly qualified VALMARANA PESTRIN DA CA Le Zoie L C O RT E LE stop). Map D3 San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna antique dealer is to keep the interest in V B ATA G I A AR VA IS Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based CORTESE CAMPIELLO personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop STELLA CORTE NOVA store in Venice offers a careful selection of the showcase antique watches and jewelry but SantirareApostoli city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus CAMPIELLO also specializes in collections WIDMANN CAMPIELLO that are unlikely to CAL TI OZ GAB LE on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI LI be found elsewhere, including objects inspired to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann Al Duca d'Aosta by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical C A M Pconcoction IELLO Chiesa Evangelica N landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L E Originally in Venice in 1902, Al Duca L Eestablished also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat WIDMAN Luterana SCU OLE Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. E LL d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. CA CAMPO info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 S.MARIA NOVA Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. CAMPO DELLA CAL LE (Rialto stop). Map F4 San Cassiano LAR PESCARIA G AUdine. The historical four-storey N ZI A N stop). Map E3 Treviso and Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato G. G N CA A S A A D L L IN A S A LI ZA Santa Maria RI Venice location features over 100 top fashion Antichità San Samuele CAMPO O DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua brands for men and women, carefully selected An antiques dealer since the Seventies, IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo A CO CA C A LL Eclientele quality and elegance. These Antique books and priceless prints focusing LL to offer its LI CAMPO Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research CAMPO DEL ED FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ L E ED primarily on preservation and authentic include casual men’s for a sporty-chic look, MU SANTIlines GIOVANNI GIÀ CAS San and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP EL TEL TI LI DELLA A BO PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Samuele specializes in religious antiques, sartorial designs forEsavvy-style gentlemen and PASSION Malibran TIP with CAMPO bookbinding methods. Teatro CA LL E DE SAN GIACOMETO LE ER Chiesa dell’Ospe Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, BE featuring the iconic accessories women’s wear, a particular focus on sculptures dating from the C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th of the latest collections, including small leather DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA L 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 13th through NS LO ON di3130 Rialtocentury Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitanBARBARIA DE LE TO DE I 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, LE CA Casa di RA 12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. MP aesthetic. The store offers numerous special O (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Polo RIALTO www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle facilities and services for its customers, including SOL Samuele stop). Map E4 Fontego Marco NUOVO line 2DEL (San della T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line deiMandola). Tedeschi a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free O AN V A CA Antichità Zanutto LR LLE Sant’Aponal DEL 1 or 2C .(Rialto stop). Map E4 Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun DE DEL C .M FON TA E A P T EGO RT IN IO M BO EN ContinuingRUGaH longstanding family tradition, Ponte GO 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, SAN F D. P CAL LE G ALL SA GIOOND CAMPO Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua di Rialto CORTE E IA CAMPO N Z CORTE LIZ in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San ZO VA AM DO TREVISAN line 1 NN EN ZA CAMPO 4945. T: 041 5220733. DELVaporetto ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO I LA TA DA LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIOweavers specializing in the production Artisanal E RA Marco to open his workshop specializing in D CAMPO NO X E Map F4 (Rialto stop). L L SAN LIO CA Rialto of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings antique paintings, with a particular focus on CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique IZ A place! DE Marina Rinaldi FORMOSA Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G DEI PRETI ALIA has practiced theL IOart Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO ZZO certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- CALL Since 1875, the company LI

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La Bottega dei Mascareri

Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

26 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

D ON

Giardini

ISOLA DI

R L C

SE CA

M DA

CA LL

ERA

Redentore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

O E ANC

CALL

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

AM ON

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

RIB PPE GA

IAN

GIUSE

SARES

F O N D A M E N TA

CALLE

I S E

DOMEN ICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

SAL

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

POLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E

BALD

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

GARI

EPPE

CAL

CROS

CALLE FRIZIER

IUS VIA G

San Francesco di Paola

C. LOREDANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

MARA

CALL E

E N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

FONDAM

AVON

BI LI

LA TANA

FONI

RAMO DE

CALLE TERCO

LA TAN A

A RO SA

LA RG

CAM PO

E COPP

VID A

E SCHI

I NO

CALL

NALE

CALL

TA A R SE

E GR

AMEN

RERA

M IA

FOND

Basilica di San P CA LLE

P IE

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

ENA

ARS

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

VA E NUO

CA LLE

ini

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

E N TA

CALL

DEI ARSENALOTTI

M ORO SI NA

DAM

PRET E DEI

CA LL E

Verg

ONI

FON

FONDAMENTA

E COLT

S C H I AV

San Martino

LL E

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

I ITT GR

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

PIZ

E AC

E LL CA

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

E DE LL CA

CR OS ER A

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

LL E

CA LL E

N TI AR M

CALL

SAN GI ACOM

CALLE ALBERO

NATER PIG

CASTELLO

DO NA

L’AN ZO LO

OLA

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

N SA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

ZATT ERE

M E N TA

EL LO

CALLE DELA CREA

FONDA

E CA ST

CALL

ENTA

CATECUMENI

IER

TA PALLA

AMEN

LE SCU

HIA RUGA VECC

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

O C. VOLT

CAL

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

R I VA D EGLI

LE ST

VONI

100 m

SC UO

COL

SCHIA

LE CAL

A DE AD SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

GRIMANI CALLE INA DELF CALLE

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

RIO TERRÀ

TE PIC

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

FOND

LLE

ENT A PON

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

SAL IZAD A SAN

SE ST ND

LL A

SALUT E

DAM

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CA LL E

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON

San Giovanni di Malta

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CORTE DELLE GATE

IN MAR DE L’OS

LL E

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

C. PIA NTON

R I VA

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZAD A SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE LION

FO CA

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

ENTA FONDAM

N IO ST BA

FEM

I PRET

E NUO

L DE

'EU

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

E LL CA

San Lorenzo

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

I UD I SC GL E DE LL CA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

NCE

E GAT

A N M

ZON

FRA

ASI DR

Palazzo Ducale

LE SAN

DE LE

N TA

CALLE

FON

CAL

LLE CA

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

IZADA SAL

Giudecca Palanca

E DEL CAFE

CALLE ERIZZO

ONI CA

Spirito Santo

CALLE BOSELLO

FON DAM

mia

CALL

Rio San Lorenzo

VO HIA

San Giovanni Novo

A O S

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

VIN CALLE DEL

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

O EZ M

NUOVA IO ED M L RE DE

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

GA SAN

CAL

E DE LL CA

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

CORTE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

LE LAR

CORTE NOVA

RO VE N SE SA

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

E LL CA

L MO GLI

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

DE LE BAN

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

ADA DEL FORN

CALLE DEL NAVARO

O SAN

LE DE CAL

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

FFA GIU

RIT

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani GA RU

O SPI

DE LE TOLE

TA EN AM ND FO

E ALL

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

TER

Santa Maria del Pianto

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

I OR

ZAT

BARBA RIA

EN TA

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

Basilica di San Marco

A DE RIV

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LL E

LO EL PP CA

SAN

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

SALIZ

FORNAC E

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

ONI

FO ND

VENEZIA

D IS

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

REM

SAL

E AI GE SU ATI

Zattere

DEL CO O

FOR

l Palaz

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

LE DEL

Rio De

ZZA

ESS

LLE

TO SA US M

CAL

Museo Correr

LAR

RÀ

TER

IES

TER

ZAT

RIO

EN TA

LLA

FONDAM ENTA

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

FO ND

LLE

CA GA BRLLE IEL

G. GA LLI

FRUTARIOLI

E LL CA

NSION

A SC TA

ASCE

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

MB O D. PA LLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

RTIRI

FONDA MENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

'AG

I MA

Salute

OTT LE RID

NAN

CAL

CAL LE

C.SA

L PIO

IA ER EL SS CA

CA AN E BI LL CA

VAL

Santa Maria del Giglio

E DEL PISTOR

se Moi San

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CORTE BAROZZI

DIC

CALL

MAR ZO

LE TRE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

A XXII

CAL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

HETTO DEL TRAG CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

E LARG

Rio

CALL

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CAMPO PISANI

CORTE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

DE LE ERBE

LAR

San Moisè

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

TOR SAR

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE TORRETTA

PIA

MO O PRITARINA RAM CON TE COR

’

LLE

TIN

LIO

ISE

DEL FORNO

LLE

SA N

LICINI

INA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

A SA

AD A

CORTE

CALL E

VA CA

LAR

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SA LIZ

LE COLONNE

RI BB I FA DE

DEL

CA AR

CAMPO SAN LIO

RUBBI

E LL CA

LLE

C.M

ZZO

CORTE

Bacino Orseolo

ERIA

TEL

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CALICE

LE COC

LE GIA

CIN

CAL

CORTE NOVA

FREZZ

IOL

LE CAS

RÀ

A DE

TAR

CA LLE

CAL

E C.

D EI

CORTE CORTESE

DR IO CA LLE LE SC UO

C. DEL

PIS

CIN

Teatro la Fenice

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

DE LA FAVA

SAL VAD OR

ORS

PIS

FRU

LE DEL

SA LA CHIE

E DRIO

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

CALL

OLI

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL OR LL’ IA DE AR RZ MA

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

San Giuliano

San Fantin

C. LARG A

O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

ELL

CAL

LE MIN

CAL

MARCO NA

OTOR TA

CAMPO

C. DEL

VO DI RE C.

CORTE GRAGOLINA

CAMPIELLO STELLA

ZEN GA MA DEL

LLE

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAL

C. D DEL EL GA LIAZZO ZZ

E LL CA

E ND CA LO LLE CA

INI

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

RI BB I FA DE

CA LL E

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CA LL E MAR DE ZA M RIA EZ O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GI AR C. AP DE ZA IE C. LE RI RA DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

N SA

CA LU

E LL CA

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

MA RZA RIA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

RÀ

PI PI O

E LL CA

LLE CA

RIO

San Salvador

RAMO

IOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

TEG

IN RN TE N PA SA

FON

R io

RO AT L TE DE

C. DE LE COLONNE

Accademia

CAL

S.Canciano

CAN ZIAN A SAN

SABION

CORTE

CALLE GOLDONI

RSODU

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

BO M BE

IA OP SC PI

I LL VA CA

E LL CA

MAZ ZINI

SAN SALVADOR

E LL CA

TAR

CAL

E LL CA

ER RN CO

RIO

TI CA

AN TEATRO

ON RB L CA DE

I AL

BA FRU

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

E ES

E LL CA

LA RG A

CORTE DEL

E LL CA

E FOS CAR

Rialto

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

TE AT RO

ELE SAMU

HI SC DE I TO C. DE

CAL

CALL

E DE

À BAR

Santajewel-like Maria Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny boutiques del Giglio San Vidal and vintage shops,Palazzo this 'unique' city offers Corner Ca' Giustinian U R O an array of 'unique'Ca’Granda della locations where you Palazzo Ponte Pisani dell'Accademia Gritti canGallerie indulge in an authentic shopping Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo Collezione Peggy Genovese experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di San Gregorio Santa put Maria to and accessories that you'll be hard della Salute find Santa Maria elsewhere. While strolling through its del Rosario Sant’Agnese esa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with Spirito Santo its characteristic vibrancy… BA

VO LT

VE NI

TER

Eredi Jovon

LL E

I CI

C. DEL

SA S LLIZ IZZ ZA ADA

Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin

San Maurizio

Palazzo Loredan

DE L

RÀ

Santo Stefano

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

S. Samuele

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BO TE GH E

●

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN

A S. PISCIN

E CR

RISI

RIN ST L PE DE LLE CA

I AN IM GR

RE DO

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo Ponte dei Tedeschi di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO C AL LE

. NA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

SESTIE

RIO

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CA LL E

HE CR OS ER A

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

●

San Silvestro

A AD LIZ SA

ZE OZ RR CA

Ca' Rezzonico

e and l Gr

L TR

VA L RA

A DE ET

HIV

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

E DE

DE LLE CA

E LL CA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

L’A

Piedàterre CAL

N RO

SART ORI

CORTE DEL REMER

SAL IZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

LE UE M SA S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

ON RD SAN L PE DE

nde Canal Gra

VE CC CO HIA RTE LEZZ E

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

CA LL EC A’

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

E SA

Santa Sofia

MPA

LIZ

RAMO

RDO CALLE BERNA

CA DE M L PIEL SA NS LO ONI

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

CA ’M UT I

BO TA

I GA

CA FOND .

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

San Barnaba

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

HET

MPIELLO DE LA VIDA

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

a Can

San Tomà AG

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

●

CARAMPANE RÀ

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

NZE

CAMPO SAN POLO

La Bottega dei Mascareri

O TALON

CAMPO APONAL

DEL

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

E LL CA

L’A GN EL LA

CAL

talon

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

ND RE

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

PRET

CA LL E

E DO

DEI

A LE

CA LL E

SAN POLO

E ZA

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

ALLE

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

San Cassiano

NA MADONA LA MADO

DE CA CA ’B LL E ON VI DE NC IN

RM LD

FO ND AM EN TA

O ZZ

O FORN DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

AMO DE RAMO R

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

MÀ

Basilica dei Frari

Rocco

CAMPO SAN STIN

N TO

. S.A

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

HEE CH RIIC BR BB FAAB

RÀ

DEL MAGAZEN

RIO

C AL

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

DELL' OLIO CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

O EG RT PO TO SO

ORSET TI

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

M EZ

LA TT

CALLE

C. DEL

L ME

E DE

CALLE

E TR

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CA RUGA BELA

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA VECCHIA

TR AG HET O

TEG

FON

ITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

SAL

O DE LA VID A

OLA

L’IS

A’ DE

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

ST UA

San Felice

S.Stae

CRI ST O

I BA

RAM

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

A DE

TER

CALLE CAZZA

LIZ

FO ND

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

TI ET OR EM LL CA

San Simeone Profeta

CA LL E DE L LA

UNIQUE IN VENICE RIO

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

C AL

LI S

I CALLE ORSETT

ON O

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RI VA

BI AS

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

DE L

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

O VECCHIO CALLE TRAGHETT

San Geremia

Eredi Jovon

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI A

Eredi Jovon's cameo

LIDO DI V

SHOPPING fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Pot-Pourrì

Palmanova Outlet Village

Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World

Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani A reference point in the world of highend jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store

New gift ideas by The Merchant of Venice

The Merchant of Venice’s new gift ideas are dedicated to the best sellers of its collection, Rosa Moceniga, Venetian Blue and Red Potion, and now include elegant gift sets depicting the façade of Ca’ d’Oro, one of Venice’s most symbolic buildings. Its stylized shapes are imprinted onto their boxes using the gold foil printing technique, and are presented like exquisitely elegant, precious treasure chests. The sets are available in pink, blue and red, the corresponding colours of the fragrances. The Venetian Blue gift set from the Nobil Homo men’s collection (see photo) includes two products: Venetian Blue Eau De Parfum Concentrée (100ml), and Venetian Blue After Shave (100 ml), the latest addition to the family, and a sought-after gift exuding a fresh, all-enveloping scent. This charismatic fragrance based on a modern fougère structure, offers new exhilarating olfactory sensations. Its mossy, smoky base is diffused with patchouli and birch, where fresh, piquant spices meet the energy of citrus. Lime and bergamot blend to present unexpected notes of apple and pineapple, in a vibrant, colourful duo. www.themerchantofvenice.com

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

ISOLA CATERINA SANTA

FONDAMEN

FONDA

M E N TA

UER DEI SQ

M CO E

RIO

DA RA

IID

LE VIA

LLE CA

MOIECA A

CAO

TTE

TTI

MIN

LLE

STE

CAL

DI C AVA FONDAMENTA

CAL

ETT

FONDAMENTA

BALDASSAR

E A D

VIA

RIO

I O D

A SINISTRA

RIO

CAL

SAN M AURO

OC C. B

CAO

DELLA

GALUPPI

FONDAMENTA DI SANTA CATERINA

C.CALZEVERDE

A LO DESTR

EI S Q

RCE

LLO

RA LO SINIST

A PIAZZA I S DE BALDASSARRE VA RI GALUPPI

PESCHERIA

Chiesa di San Martino

R IO R R À D

EL P IZ ZO

FONDAMENT

DEL PIZZO

BURANO

Chiesa di Santa Caterina

C A M PA LT O

FONDAMENTA

M E N TA

MALLEO CALLE

INEL N TA P O N T

VIA

FONDA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

FONDAME

VIA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

CATERINA

SANTA

MAZZORBETTO

MAZZORBO

BAGARON

100 m

MESTRE

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

AS C

L C O

LA EL

E D E

E V O

RTI

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COLORATA

LIO

E C E

L'A

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AME

N TA

CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

SAN

L O

Chiesa S. Erasmo

NTI

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

GIUSEPPE

CALLE

GIA

DEL BR

LORENZO

SALVADOR

SAN

CAL LLE

CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE CRISTO

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Santa Maria dei Carmini

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CAMPO SAN POLO

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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

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dell'Orto

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CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

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Santa Fosca

CALLE

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CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

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CAMPO SAN STIN

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CAMPO SAN ROCCO

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CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

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TINTORETTO

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FOMO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

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SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

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CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

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San Rocco

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CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

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CAMPO SAN BOLDO

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San Pantalon

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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

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CALLE SAVIO

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CALLE CONTARINA

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VECCHIO BERGAMA

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MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

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RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

FONDAMEN

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

DEI

STRADA

BIASIO

BARI

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

FONDAMENTA

DEI FONTEGHERI

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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

VECCHIO

NUOVA

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PROCURATIE

LARGA

PONTE

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

CALLE

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DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

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CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

CALLE TRAGHETTO

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San Simeone Profeta

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San Nicola da Tolentino

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CAMIN DEL

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CALLE

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

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CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

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CALL

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Giardino Papadopoli

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FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

Madonna dell'Orto

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San Leonardo

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People Mover Venezia

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Rio

People Mover Venezia

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Santa Maria di Nazareth

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CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

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CALLE

SAVORGNAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

San Girolamo

San Geremia

SALONI

SPAGNA

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

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Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

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FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

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CALLE

FONDAMENTA

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE

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BECCARIE

CAVALLET

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

PRIULI

SEBASTIANO

FORNER

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CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

BRAGADIN

DEL

di Sant'Alvise

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COLETTI

FONDAMENTA

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GIOBBE

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

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San Giobbe

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NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

DEL SABION

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

TRONCHET

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CORTE

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Parco

People Mover Venezia

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NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

MURANO CALLE

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

del

CALLE

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PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

FAUSTA

Piedàterre Sensual and sophisticated, the new ‘Gilio’ fragrance by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO comes in a blown glass bottle crafted by VENINI. The fragrance is a re-interpretation of the maison’s iconic perfume.

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia. eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were

the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

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DINING

Arrigo Cipriani, owner of Harry's Bar

A legendary location Harry’s Bar is the birthplace of one of the world’s most famous cocktails, and a must-visit destination, renowned for its sophisticated, old-world atmosphere. By Chiara Zaccarelli

he Bellini, made from peach juice and champagne, is one of the world’s bestloved cocktails. A simple, yet refined recipe, in which the structure and minerality of the champagne is enhanced by the aroma and scent of the peaches. The latter should be white, ripe and pureed on the spot in a strainer, to obtain a pure, delightfully fresh nectar. But where can you find a Bellini of this quality, flawlessly executed according to tradition? At Harry’s Bar of course, which is also the place where this legendary cocktail was invented in 1948. Located in the heart of Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Harry’s Bar was awarded national heritage status thanks to its historic and cultural value. This locale was the favourite haunt of Arturo Toscanini, Georges

30 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

Braque, Truman Capote, Charlie Chaplin, Peggy Guggenheim, Orson Welles, and Ernest Hemingway, who had his own table, and who mentioned the bar several times in his novel Across the River and Into the Trees. In addition to sampling this signature cocktail, you can also dine here. The menu features a variety of traditional Venetian dishes, re-imagined with an international twist. Harry’s Dolci, an oasis of peace located on the island of Giudecca, is the most recent addition to the family. Boasting a breathtaking view over Venice and an elegant, laid-back atmosphere, it’s a peaceful refuge, far removed from the tourist crowds in St. Mark’s Square. The locale is a great place to lunch, dine or simply order a cup of coffee and an ice cream.

>> cipriani.com San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso) T: 041 528 5777. Map F5

Bellini cocktail

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle

della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and

1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitan-style cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or gluten-free flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www. alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th

Contemporary setting

The Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses, an exclusive strip of land covering 16 hectares, has a new chef, and a new concept. It is a tranquil, secluded retreat comprising a series of buildings dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These have been re-imagined in a contemporary key by renowned architect Matteo Thun, and Venetian materials and neutral colours blend harmoniously with the reflections of the lagoon. A unique gourmet destination that’s very different to the usual tourist itineraries. The restaurant’s new chef, Fabio Trabocchi, a native of the Marche region, has returned home after spending twenty years in the USA, bringing a touch of globalization with him. In spite of Fabio’s USA experience, his culinary offerings are a tribute to the Adriatic and to Italy as a whole. The menu features seasonal ingredients sourced from the Rialto Fish Market, but also from the island’s private vegetable garden. Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Hotel - Isola delle Rose. T: 041 8521300. www.jwvenice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31

DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

DINING Italian labels. also some served. attentive staff,Vegetarian the Antico meals Martiniare serves of €€€.best www.lacalcina.com. La Calcina. the seafood in town.c/o €€€.Hotel www.anticomartini. Dorsoduro, (Zattere). 041 5206466. Vaporetto com. Campo780 Teatro FeniceT:2007. T: 041 5224121. line 2 or 5.1line (Zattere stop). Map Vaporetto 1 (Santa Maria delE6 Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

La Conca d’Oro LocatedPignolo just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Antico

Conca d’Oro was established Sicilian brothers The hand of owner Eligio Paties,by is apparent in its Giuseppe laid andtables Giovanni the founders of beautifully and Costa, impeccable service. The the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellthis Venetian institution has than been900 turning stocked cellar boasting more labelsout from some the best €€€. pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ all overofthe world. www.anticopignolo.com. San (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, Marco, 451(Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. 4338 (Campo Giacomo). T: 041 Vaporetto line 1SS. or Filippo 2 (Rialtoestop). Map F4 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria Map F4 stop). Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topLa Porta d’Acqua notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, theMartin restaurant Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio is housed in aan15th building and decorated transformed oldcentury osteria into one of the city’s with original dating back to 1700. Its cuisine most famousfrescoes restaurants. Impeccable service and conjures upVenetian the aroma of authentic Neapolitan superlative dishes composed of carefully cuisine, thanks to ingredients exclusively selected seasonal ingredients sourced have made Da Fiore Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San afrom must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. Polo, 1022/b (Rio San TeràPolo, San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. www.dafiore.net. 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). stop). Map E4 Vaporetto 1 (Rialto-Mercato

Map E3

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful Gran Canal

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

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promenade Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Here you canintaste the typical specialties of Venetian spot for afeaturing romanticthe dinner where you canofenjoy tradition, purest expression tasteall and the typical flavours of the main Venetian €€€. harmony. The restaurant’s focuslagoon. is on seafood www.ristorantelineadombra.com. 19. and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinnerDorsoduro, on its evocative T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand (Saluteoffering stop). Map E5an excellent opportunity Canal diners to combine the pleasures of the palate with a Locanda Cipriani stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch For those who want to be close to Venice, 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular (San Marco stop). Map F5 among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo hasFilippo been renovated with charm, Vaporetto exuding SS. e Giacomo). T: great 041 5229293. an understated elegance beautiful Map F4 lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccariawith stop). country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. Lineadombra locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 Perched the last of theVaporetto most beautiful (Torcelloon island). T: bridge 041 730150. line 12 promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then spot take for thea9romantic line). Offdinner Map where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www. Taverna al Remer ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 Located Vaporetto near to theline Rialto Bridge,stop) this romantic 2411881. 5.1 (Zattere or 1 (Salute ‘taverna’ is E5 distinguished by its open-brick stop). Map decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Trattoria Domenu Forni Although the features simple, traditional The owner Eligiosurprises Paties has managed to make this dishes, it often diners with unusual restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. by its wide Cannaregio, assortment of5701. Venetian thanks to alremer.it. T. 041fare, 5228789. the quality of the dishes and stop). a genuine sense of Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro typically Map F3Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Trattoriaand Dopay Forni Express” tribute to the history of Venice. The www.doforni.it. owner Eligio Paties has managed to make €€€. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei this restaurant a sought-after destination, Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line by its Map wide F4 assortment of Venetian 1distinguished or 2 (San Zaccaria). fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a Wildner genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. Opened by spaces the Fullin in 1960, it is patronized The dining willfamily remind you of the carriages by locals and tourists alike.Express” Its tranquil, relaxed of the legendary “Orient and pay tribute atmosphere is of further enhanced by a spectacular to the history Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San view over the(Calle Basindei of St. Mark’s. ItsT:menu is mainly Marco, 468 Specchieri). 041 5232148. fish-based classic VenetianMap specialties Vaporetto and line serves 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). F4 including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Wildner Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Opened 4161. by the family inVaporetto 1960, it isline patronized Castello, T: Fullin 041 5227463. 4.1 by5.1 locals tourists alike. Its G4 tranquil, relaxed Map or (Sanand Zaccaria stop). atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Dal Mas Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Located just a few minutes from the railway station, Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www. cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3

PASTRY SHOPS

Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Pasticceria Rosa Salva

This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San MarcoMercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the La Conca d’Oro Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo The hauteincuisine ofItaly. thisSince signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of San first pizzeria Northern that time, this Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 Venetian hasand beentraditional turning out Venetian some of dishes. Italian institution specialties www.kempinski.com/it/venice or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant).

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.

Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Map F5

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5

Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Glam

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this

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enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but

ÂŠ #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

Quadri

wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map

Venissa

Oro

Rosso Venissa

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PHOTO © DALIU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ENTERTAINMENT

A weekend getaway in the Dolomites

hat do Venice, the Lagoon city surrounded by seawater and the peaks of the Dolomites have in common? Both destinations are UNESCO World Heritage sites but, above all, most people are unaware that some of the most dramatic and majestic mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world is located a mere two hours away from Venice. With their breathtaking landscapes, picturesque mountain villages and steep slopes that make them a paradise for winter sports, the Dolomites are one of the Venetians favourite winter holidaying destinations, but not only. The connections between Venice and the locations of Cortina d'Ampezzo, Val di Zoldo, Alleghe, Falcade and Marmolada are increasingly numerous. 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

If your ultimate destination is Venice, and you would like to get just a taste of the mountains, several local tour operators offer an array of great tour packages (www.veneziadolomiti.com). In particular, Cortina d’Ampezzo, a famous racing town and a location for the 2026 Winter Olympics, combines the appeal of a ski resort dedicated to Alpine sports with a vibrant day and night life, dedicated to culture and haute cuisine. In addition to winter sports, Cortina is a paradise for shopping with markets where you can purchase local specialties and the boutiques of well-known fashion brands. Alternately, more daring visitors can indulge in a variety of openair sports including climbing, excursions on snow mobiles or horse-drawn sleighs, romantic helicopter flights or hikes, even in summer.

PHOTO © PHOTOSHOOTER2015 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

On particularly clear days in Venice you can see the mountains of the Dolomites, an ideal destination for a weekend getaway, especially in winter. By Giulia Minero

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ON SHOW Don’t miss “The Nutcracker” ballet by Pyotr Tchaikovsky on Tuesday 26. The Russian Classical Ballet will perform under the direction of Evgeniya Bespalova and Denis Karakashev. www.teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map

WELLNESS JW Venice Spa Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment

cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. Facilities include a stunning heated indoor vitality pool that extends outdoors through a moveable glass wall, a sauna, bio-sauna, hammam and gym. Non-resident guests are welcome, and there is a dedicated JW Venice Spa dock for water taxis and boats arriving from across the lagoon. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa has been nominated the best hotel Spa in Italy and Europe at the "World Spa Awards 2019". c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

GAMBLING & CASINOS Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary openair opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since

Casinò di Venezia

Glamour and charity In Venice, the Sparkling December Cocktail & Dinner Party is a popular and eagerly awaited Christmas extravaganza. A unique event featuring opulent decorations and unexpected surprises. Held on 14 December in the elegant Hotel Metropole, each year, this dazzling party is characterized by a different, elaborate theme, around which the entire evening revolves. Jugglers, fire eaters, dancers and international performers entertain guests, amidst fancy dress, games, performances and fun. In addition to a buffet curated by the staff of the Met Restaurant, guests are treated to a DJ set and music played by a live band until late at night. The highlight of the evening and its raison d'être is the charity lottery to support the Onlus Foundation for Research on Cystic Fibrosis. www.hotelmetropole.com

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

SIGHTSEEING |

Teatro La Fenice during the New Year's Eve concert

A legendary theatre With a history steeped in tragic events and reconstructions, one of Italy’s most prestigious opera houses and a symbol of Venice, La Fenice, stages a rich roster of opera, ballet and classical music. By Chiara Zaccarelli

here never has been such an evocative name. 230 years ago, the Phoenix, a legendary bird who rises from the ashes, gave its name to what is now the best-loved and most famous theatre in Venice. La Fenice’s history is particularly unusual. During the second half of the 18th century, the prestigious Teatro San Benedetto was partially destroyed by a fire, but rebuilt by the ‘Nobile Società dei Palchettisti’, the owners of the property. However, due to a judicial ruling by the Venier family, it was forced to sell the complex. This prompted the Association to build another larger, more luxurious theatre, which they called La Fenice as a tribute to its rebirth. In the 19th century, it staged numerous premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. In 1836, a fire damaged part of the 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

structure which was rebuilt within a year. In 1996, another devastating fire almost destroyed the theatre completely. However, despite the serious damage, La Fenice rose once again from the ashes, more splendid than ever before. If you want additional information about this legendary theatre and its ‘stars’, you can book a tour that allows access to its lavish interiors that are decorated with stuccoes and gilded ornamentation, including a visit to the rooms hosting a permanent exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas. This season’s program features operas, ballets and classical music, plus the theatre’s unmissable New Year’s Eve concert. >> www.teatrolafenice.it Campo San Fantin, 1965. T: 041 786654. Map 4E

Maria Callas

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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection

of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.

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for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in

1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore

When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect?

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown

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jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

YOUR ING COMPANION SINCE 1936® 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVEL COMPANION Known by the ING Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this

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landmark features 17 monumental altars and ® is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in M A G A Z I N E addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com and funerary monuments of numerous famous WHERE SRL WHEREITALIA ITALIA SRL Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. people, including Via Milano. ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 20154 Milano. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 T:T:02 02349951 349951--Fax Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, info@where-venice.com info@where-venice.com 2, N (San Tomà stop). www.where-venice.com Map D4 www.where-venice.com

1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still

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display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione,

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

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Santi e Paolo Andrea Jarach AndreaGiovanni Jarach One of the city’s most important examples (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e

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because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with MANAGING DIRECTOR MANAGING DIRECTOR DanieleMisrachi Misrachi numerous other notable personages. www. Daniele basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi EDITORIALCOORDINATION COORDINATION EDITORIAL Giovanni Paolo (Please note: this site might be AlessandraeFinzi Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) Alessandra (redazione@where-venice.com) marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on MAGAZINEEDITORIAL EDITORIALSTAFF STAFF Carey Carey Bernitz, Bernitz, MAGAZINE the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 Elena Binda,Romena Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena Binda, Brugnerotto, (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K.Stefania Daviddi, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Vida ElenaF3 Peverata, Stefania Vida Map

MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Scala Contarini delElisabetta Bovolo Giudici, Joy Lacanlale Joy Lacanlale Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), WEB EDITORIAL STAFFwhat Chiara Fonzi building. However, makes it(coordination), such a (editor) Fabio (art Giulia Minero FabioLancini Lancini (art direction), direction), Minero (editor) popular attraction today, wasGiulia the addition, by redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where®enclosed Italia, Shutterstock ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell in a Shutterstock cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: File © Where Italia - 2017 beauty theby stairwell, combined withsrl. the view OriginalofMap Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original by Urban www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Map by- Dmitry Goloub that canMap beNetwork enjoyed onFile reaching the top, is well Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pmMARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo,Renna, 6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Isa Faleschini, Marta Renna, Paola Zannoni Palazzo Contarini delMailhac, Bovolo.Rachele San Marco, 4299 Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy")

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

DRESS It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

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Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental

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Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San

Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco

A hidden treasure Hidden in a maze of ‘calli’ and canals, just steps from Campo Manin, visitors will find an architectural gem featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The Scala Contarini del Bovolo is a historic building of unmatched beauty that also owes some of its charm to the intrigue surrounding its namesake staircase. According to historic records, it was commissioned by Pietro Contarini towards the end of 1400 to Giovanni Candi, referred to in historical records as a ‘marangon’, meaning a carpenter as opposed to an architect. This would explain the architectural inconsistencies of the building, which are quite noticeable when climbing the staircase. Mysteries aside, those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the top of this 26m ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell, enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace, to admire a rare view of the city.

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The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-

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www.teatrolafenice.it

PH © MICHELE CROSERA

18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

OPERA 3, 7 December (Opera Season 2019/2020) DON CARLO by Giuseppe Verdi Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Robert Carsen, director Radu Boruzescu, sets Petra Reinhardt, costumes Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 December at Teatro Malibran PINOCCHIO (Pierangelo Valtinoni) Enrico Calasso, conductor Gianmaria Aliverta, director Alessia Colosso, sets La Fenice Orchestra Children Choir Piccoli Cantori Veneziani CONCERT 4 December DIALOGO ANGELICO with Ex Novo Ensemble Music by Wilhelm F. Bach, Aldo Clementi, Louis Andriessen, Stefano Scodanibbio, Goffredo Petrassi, Nino Rota, Giorgio Federico Ghedini, Philip Glass Manuel Zurria and Daniele Ruggieri, flute

19, 20, 22 December Claus Peter Flor Concert Claus Peter Flor, conductor Music by Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy (Symphony No. 4 in A Major, Op. 90 Italian Symphony – Symphony No. 5 in D Major, Op. 107, Reformation) 29, 30, 31 December and 1 January 2020 NEW YEAR’S CONCERT 2020 Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master Music by Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy (Symphony No. 4 in A major, Op. 90 Italian) OTHER EVENTS 8 December, 11am Matinée at the Sale Apollinee Concert-Aperitivo La Fenice Soloists will play excerpts from Jacques Ibert, Darius Milhaud, Maurice Ravel, Jean Françaix and Georges Bizet accompanied on the piano by La Fenice Chorus Master Claudio Marino Moretti.

5 and 6 December (Concert Season 2019/2020) Myung-Whun Chung conduct Mahler Music by Gustav Mahler (Symphony No. 9 in D Major)

MUSICA CON LE ALI 10 December Matinée at the Sale Apollinee Concert-Aperitivo Music by Johannes Brahms, Robert Schumann Quartetto di Venezia Giulia Rossini, piano

17 and 18 December (St. Mark’s Cathedral) Marco Gemmani Concert Marco Gemmani, conductor Music by Giovanni Legrenzi (Christmas in St. Mark’s 1670)

MUSIKAMERA 11 and 12 December (Sale Apollinee) Music by Johannes Brahms Stefania Redaelli and Maria Grazia Bellocchio, piano

The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43

PH © CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

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Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FOND

CROCE

A .L

OPOL TA PAPAD

People Mover Venezia

TRONCHETTO

FONDAMEN

Ponte della Costituzione

Sant'Andrea

TÀ ER RÀ

LIB

S A N TA

Ferrovia

RIO

Ferrovia

DE P.le Roma

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NT A

San Simeon Piccolo

BI AS

RI VA

DI ET RI O TE RO LA RÀ CH IES

Ponte degli Scalzi

Ferrovia

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

I LZ

People Mover Venezia

Riva de Biaso

Rio

RIO

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

AG SP

E DEL PISTO

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

CALL

San Leonardo

E ST

C IA

I DE

Madonna dell'Orto

LL'O

CAMPO FO ND DEI MORI AM EN TA DEI MO RI

CAMPO SAN LEONARDO

ON TR L DE VA A OL

C AT

M ER

C IT TI

L IS

RÀ

LER

DO S. LEONAR RIO TERÀ

I CALLE ORSETT

ICO

O LL IE R LE

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

EZ IO

AL C

R IO

ER LE P

C AL

IN M CA L DE E LL CA

Santa Maria di Nazareth

D IR

San Geremia

C O R SA PE LE

FA R S

LE AL C

VECCHIO

MAD

O CALLE TRAGHETT

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

People Mover Venezia

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAL

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CAMPO SAFFA

MIS

A E M

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani FO

DEL

ann E G IO areg io

RIO T ERÀ

C LA E

di C

San Giobbe

E DE

ale

Can

Rio

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

C ANNAREGIO 12

LLO

AL V EL E C GH C E H T IO T

ER ER

CAL LE

San Girolamo

ER TIT

INE

C AL

IA N

C AL

LO PI TE CA DE L

LL E

N G IR

AR C EC B LE

Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

B AT

ETTI,

L ME

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

A VEN

PISCIN

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

Alvis

Sen

LIZ

della

TT I

Rio O CO LE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

R A’

.A CA RL

SA LIT A FO NT

FO ND

NIT

A PE

R IO

ant'

IN I

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

di S

’

CAL

Rio

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

F O N D A M E N TA

OVE

O SS

Parco

NUOV

SE NU

I CASE

LLE CA

CALLE

TA DE

AMEN

FOND

Venice Map

AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

TORCELLO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAMENTA

ISOLA

CATERINA SANTA

SANTA

DI CATERINA

MAZZORBETTO

FONDAMENTA

FONDA

M E N TA

RIO

DA RA

EI S Q

IID

LE VIA

LLE CA

MOIECA

CAO

TTE

TTI

MIN

LLE

STE

CAL

DI C AVA FONDAMENTA

CAL

DELLA

GALUPPI

FONDAMENTA

BALDASSARRE

E A D

VIA

RIO

I O D

ETT

A SINISTRA

CAL

RIO

SAN M AURO

A PIAZZA I S DE BALDASSARRE VA RI GALUPPI

PESCHERIA

Chiesa di San Martino

R IO TE R R À

D EL

FONDAMENTA

P IZ ZO

DEL PIZZO

BURANO

OC C. B

Chiesa di Santa Caterina

C A M PA LT O

MESTRE

MALLEO CALLE

CAO

CIMITERO

DEL STRADA

C.CALZEVERDE

A LO DESTR

RA LO SINIST

FONDAMENTA DI SANTA CATERINA

RCE

LLO

M E N TA

FONDAMENTA

MAZZORBO

FONDA

INEL N TA P O N T

VIA

INEL N TA P O N T

BAGARON

UER DEI SQ

FONDAME

14 VIA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

100 m

TORCELLO

BURANO

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 13

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

AS C

L C O

LA EL

E D E

.D G

NO US

COLORATA

E N TA S E

AME

N TA

CALLE

GIUSEPPE

SAN

NZ O

E TT

RO MIST

N TI S

G O

CALL

E AN GE

LO D AL

CAMPO S A N D O N AT O

SANT’ERASMO

MURANO

A DA

MULA

Ponte Lungo

DELLA

MULA

E FONDA M

RAMO

QUIRIZIO

F O N D A M E N TA D E I V E T R A I

PESCHERIA

CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A

R B E

C LE

L’

VIA

C A’ S AV I O

FON

Faro di Murano

LE IO

LLA F O N D A M E N TA S E R E N E

ENT

PESCHERIA

PRË

DEI

ZANETTI

DELLA DELLA

BERTOLINI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

A SAN GIOV

DEL

HI O MASG

ORT

C. LARGA

LI RO G

B AT T U T I

IET LE D NA

TONI E N TA A N

CAL

CALLE

LEO

LLE

LLEONI

OLO

FOSC

O E UG

BERTOLINI CALLE

FONDAM

CALL

CALLE

Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

CIPRIANO SAN CALLE

ANTON

N TA

SERENELLA

CAVALLINO TREPORTI

Chiesa S. Erasmo

NTI

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

CRISTO

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

DEL CALLE

CALLE

E V O

RTI LLE

CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE

VIVARINI

SACCA

LIO

L'A LE

SAN

CAL CA

E C E

DEL

SALVADOR

Santa Maria degli Angeli

PARMENSE

GIA

RADI

CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE

LORENZO

STRADA

MURANO

TA’

PORTO MARGHERA

ORTES

CRISTOFORO

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

GIANMARIA

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENTA

TERA’

CALLE

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

RIO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Cimitero Nuovo

COLORATA CA

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

VIA

MASENA

Apostoli Santi

DEI

SANT'ANTONIO

CASTELLO

C. D EL

FONDAMENTA

CAR

GEN

ERA

VIALE

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

INO

TTO

CAL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

LÒ

Japan Pavilion

CAPPUCCINE

SANTA

CALLE

ORTI DEGLI

SANT'ELENA

VIALE

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

LL CA

Teatro Verde

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE CAVALLI

FONDAMENTA

PIETA’

CALLE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CAPPELLO

CALLE DEL FO

RAMO

CALLE

MAGNO CALLE

Nuove

Fondamenta delle

GRECI

Canale

STRETA

CALLE DEI

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL DE

CALLE DEL FORNO

COLONNE CALLE

MAGGIORE

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

United States Pavilion

MURAZZO

GIUSTINA

ISEPO

PALUDO

EMB

CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

SAN

PALUDO

E IV NOV

CALLE

SALIZADA

TERÀ

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

VIAL

DOSE DEL CALLE

VI MA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

Lido S. Nicolo'

SANT’ELENA

R E

DELL'OLIO

ROTONDA

CANOSSIANE

LA DE

LARGA

CALLE

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

STRETTA

ROTONDA

RIO CROCE

DEI

Rio d el Giardini

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN CALLE

CALLE

CORDONI DEI STELLA

CALLE CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL CALLE

TESTA DE

Rio

Dei

BANDI

MENDICANTI

FONDAMENTAMendicanti

CALLE NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

PARADISO

DEL

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

FORNO

DEL CALLE

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CALLE DEL

STAGNERI

NUOVE

CALLE

LA DE

CALLE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

FOORNO

Ca’

DEL

Rio

VELE DE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

LOVO DEL CALLE

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

DRIO

CANNAREGIO

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

FONDAMENTA

GRANDE

RIO

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE LE DE CALLE

C. ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

VECCHIA

ETTI,

TI,

CALLE

FA R S

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

CORTE

RS RÀ

CALLE

RIO T ERÀ

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

TREVISAN

SAN CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL

PICCOLO

REGINA LA

SALIZADA

DEL

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA DE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

CALLE

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO

SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

MUNEGHE

LE DE

CALLE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CALLE

DA PONTE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SANT'ELENA

JUNGHANS

Rio

Le Zitelle

Parco delle Rimembranze LL

SANT'ELENA

FONDAMENTA

U I P

Santa Croce

VIALE PIAVE

CALLE

PONTE

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

CALLE

CORTE

FIANCO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO Giardini

S. Giorgio

SAN GIACOMO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

ALDI

CALLE

ACCADEMIA

IST

Lungo

R L C

IB PE GAR

ION

FONDAMENTA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

IAN

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

FONDAMENTA

San Francesco di Paola BALD CALLE

I S ET

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

CROCE

Ponte

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

DELLA

ERBE

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

C. LOREDANA

CALLE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

CALLE ALBERO

RAMO DE

Punta della Dogana

Redentore

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CAMPO

CALLE

FOND

DE LA

CROSERA

M E N TA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

VIDA

CALLE

PICCOLO

CASTELLO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

DEI

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

San Martino

DEI FORNI

PIETRO

FEM

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

Arsenale di Venezia RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

MOROSINA

SAN

'EU

MARTIN

PESTRIN

CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

SCUOLA

CELESTIA

DONA

GRITTI CALLE

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

CALLE

CROSERA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DE

SAN PISCINA

PIGNATER

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

Giudecca Palanca EN

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

S C H I AV

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

COSMO

ANTONIN

ZATTERE

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

R I VA D EGLI S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà VONI

100 m

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DEGLI

CALLE BOSELLO

VERONA

RIO

CALLE

San Lorenzo

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

MINELLI

PISCINA

DEL NOVA ISOLA

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

Scomenze

MARITTIMO

Canale

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

San Gregorio

CALLE

DEI PRETI

CALLE

GATE

ZORZI

DRASI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

SALIZADA

LATERANO

SEVERO

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

DEL

PISCINA

VERONA

A N M

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

MEZO

DE CALLE

RUGA

DIREZIONE

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE

NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

Palazzo Ducale

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL

SAN

SCHIAVONI

DEGLI

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

RIVA

Rio San Lorenzo

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

Marittim

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

ZZA

Museo Correr

FONDAMENTA

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

PIA

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

SAN

FABBRI

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

ORBI

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

DEI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

DEL

San

CALLE

Rio

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

BOTERI

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

CALLE

BEMBO

CALLE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

SAN

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

DEI

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

Ca' Giustinian

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

RIO

GIAZZO

CAMPO

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

CARRO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

CALLE

SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

DEL

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

REMER

CALLE

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

MAGAZZINI

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

O DEL

CINQUE

RIO

CALLE

DEI

DEL

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

COCCO

TOSCANA

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

MOISE’

CALLE

CORNER

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

Palazzo Genovese

CASTELLO

CALLE

Stazione

ORESI

MADONA

SAN

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

MAZZINI

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

TEATRO

CALLE

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

LARGA

DEL

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CALLE

SAN CALLE

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

FABBRICHE

CALLE

DOLERA

SPIRITO

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

CALLE

zera

CATERINA

CALLE

GALIZZI

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

ALLO

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

SANTA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Giudecca Hilton

CATENE

S.ANDREA

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

ZATTERE

VAPORETTO

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

NARISI

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

AI GESUATI

Zattere

NOVE

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

STURION

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

ZATTERE

DEL

CAMPO DE LA

DEL SOL

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

FOND.

SAN

CROSERA

San Vidal

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

VENDRAMIN

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CALLE

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON

CALLE

de r an

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CARAMPANE

DEL

FONDAMENTA BONLINI

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA'

DEL

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

SESTIERE

CARROZZE

al G

Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE SALIZADA

Abazia della Misericordia D

San Cassiano CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

TRAGHETTO

San Felice

TIOZZI

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Can

DEL

FOND.

PONTE

CALLE

DEI

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

Accademia

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

CALLE

S. Samuele

FALIER

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

TRAPOLIN

Santa Fosca

S.Stae

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

FONDAMENTA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

La Maddalena

CALLE

TENTOR

BOLDO

TRON

DEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

SAN

SOTOPORTEGO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DIETRO

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CALLE BERNARDO

MORETTI

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CROSERA

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CALLE

Ca' Rezzonico

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CALLE

Rio Nuovo

TABACCHI

PRETI

San Barnaba

CALLE

SAN

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DEI

L’ASEO

DONZELA

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

ALE

CALLE

NIE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

RENIER

FOMO

.DA

SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

PANTALON

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

San Pantalon

CALLE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

DEI

À D E

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

RAMO

CIMESIN

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

TINTOR

CALLE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

Bacino

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE

Scomen

RIO

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

Canale

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

CALLE ORSETTI

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

della

Rio

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

DEI

LUNA

RAMO

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

Rio

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BARI

CAMPO

CANAL CORTE

DEI AMAI

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

CALLE

BESAGIO

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

BIASIO

RIVA

LISTA

FONDAMENTA

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

MINOTTO

Magazen

SAN

Rio

SAN

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

NUOVE

San Nicola da Tolentino

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SALIZADA

San Simeone Profeta

NUOVA

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

LARGA

PONTE CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

ICO

RIO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CALLE

CASE

CALLE

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

VECCHIO

TRONCHETTO

SPAGNA

TERÀ

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

LUNGA

PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

PENSIERI

DE L’OGIO

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

MIS

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

DI LISTA RIO

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

CROCE

C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN MICHELE

DELL'ORTO

E DEL PISTO

STRADA

TERÀ

MADONA

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia

RIO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

LER

CROCE

CALLE

NICOLO’

Rio

ER LE P

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

CAVALLETTI

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Museo Ebraico CAL

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

SCALZI

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

CANNAREGIO

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

San Girolamo

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

CALLE

A E M

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa FO

SAVORGNAN

FONDAMENTA

DEL

CALLE

MATTIA

SAN

NOVA DEL

N G IR

ISOLA

People Mover Venezia

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

L’ARCO

LLO

CALLE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DOGE

B AT

CALLE

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

FORNER

SEBASTIANO

DEL

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

BRAGADIN

CALLE

della

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

CAMPO SAFFA

Rio

CARLO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

SAN

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

VECCHIA

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

RUGA

Parco

SANT'AGNESE

BRAGADIN

PISCINA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

INCURABILI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

RIA

ISA

C A AN

O VI

VIA VIA

DAN

DOL

O E NR

ICO

MOCENIGO

VIA

V I A L E PA N T O

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

ZIO

VIA VETTOR PISANI

E C I PA

O PA RT

T TA

ORS

VIC

ZAR

VIA

ILEI

AQU

VIA

R MA

N TA

S TA

VIA

HIE

MIC

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

S. Servolo

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

RIV

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

IA TR

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA

SANDRO

O SE LV

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

GALLIPOLI

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

Hotel Excelsior Venice

R AT

PIZZAMANO

VIA

PIE

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

GA OS

RZ IN

I VI

MA O LM

IE GL

VA RI

CRISTOFORO

VIA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

VIA

SAN

VIA

SAN

PIGAFETTA

LIDO

I S E

O LL GA

A VI

O VA

I E

VIA

PEZZANA

VIA FRANCESCO

I R E

Z AT

VIA M

GIOVANNI PIVIDOR

AL M A VI CO OC AM AL M A

PARRI

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

FO DE

O NI

RD I CO DE

LA ST

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

RO UE SQ L

I NT

n ti

DI CA

ic a

IM EN

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

PIETA’

E CA ST

EL LO

delle ale Can

E N N LO O C LE AL

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

G IA

EMB

NT E SA

CAR

INO

SS LL

Parco delle Rimembranze VI

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

6 PONTE DI RIALTO

11 LIDO DI VENEZIA

2 PALAZZO DUCALE

7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

12 THE GHETTO

3 CANAL GRANDE

8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

13 MURANO

4 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE

14 BURANO

Sant'Elena

ENA

Teatro Verde

5 TEATRO LA FENICE

TTO

ERA

GEN

ENA

SAN T'EL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

CAL

FON DAM

E VIAL E PIAV

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

C. D EL

L DE

Japan Pavilion

PIZ

VIALE

ON LL E

MAGGIORE

Top in Town

S MA

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

United States Pavilion

E IV NOV

Russia Pavilion

VIAL

M CA

CC A

M CA

TT E

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

L EL

ION

LA E PO

GIARDINI ISOLA DI

BB O

O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

Giardini

SA IST

E US

S. Giorgio

R L C

EL CA LL

ERA

O E ANC

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALL

V TA

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

F O N D A M E N TA

SARES

Punta della Dogana

I S E

AM ON

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI

CALLE

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

SALUT E

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

BALD

SAL

OS E CR

DELFINA CALLE

GARI

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

GRIMANI CALLE

VA E NUO

CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

ESSO

PRET E DEI

LAR

E COLT

CALL

VAL

oise

EPPE

CAL

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALL

CALLE

RTIRI

I MA

IUS VIA G

FONI

FONDAME

MARA

CALL E

ION

LA TANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

100 m

SAL IZAD

ARSENALE RAMO DE

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

TAN A

A RO SA

EN TA

E LA RG

CALL

CENS

DE LA

TA A R SE

CA LL

A AS

CAM PO

AMEN

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello

A STR ETA

mo FOND

L’A

DE I FO RN I CA LL E

VID A

ENA

P IE

ARS

E N TA

LARG

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

CA LLE

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

CA LL E

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

DEI ARSENALOTTI

M OR OSI NA

FONDAMENTA

FON

FONDAMENTA

HIA RUGA VECC

ONI

CAL LE

ini

O C. VOLT

S C H I AV

Verg

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

R I VA D EGLI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

I ITT GR

Rio de San Gerola

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

RS EN

E LL CA

CR OSE RA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

FO ND

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

NATER PIG

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

NDAM ENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

L’AN ZO LO

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

enta

CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

CALLE DEI

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DEL FO

PEL LO O CAP

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCC INE

SANTA

E CAPP CALL

CAL

DE LL A CO RO NA

C. COR ONA

LEONAR DO

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA

L VO

DIS

UT AR

L DE

DEL

ALL

C. DE LA MADONETA

L DO

NA VE LA

E DE

DE C.

CALLE DEL

STA GNERI

C. DEI

BA LO TE LE

FONDAMENTA

SALIZADA

I SE M BA

BO E

AP II

A RI CE M ER

LO VO

DEL

CA LL E DE

LE ST

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

N SA

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

LE CAL

N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

DEGLI

N IO ST BA

LLE

VO HIA

R I VA

LL A

L DE

DIC

OTT LE RID

LE TRE

CAL

I SC

San Zaccaria

ANT ONIN

E LL CA

MO GL A DE RIV

A N M

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

OLO

an Moisè

E’

SA LO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

SALIZAD A SAN

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

San Giorgio dei Greci

LL E

CAL LE

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

AL CAV

Museo Correr

ENTA FONDAM

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

E GAT

DEL

l Palaz

Palazzo Ducale

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

IN MAR DE L’OS

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

2 4

I PRET

E NUO

SE ST

O DE L’OGI CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

ONI CA

Rio De

LE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

SAN

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE

ZZA

GA SAN

CAL

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

ASI DR

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

PIA

LE LAR

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

DE LE

RI BB I FA DE

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER CO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

NCE

LLE CA

E LL

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

FRA

IZADA SAL

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

CAL

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE TORRETTA

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

RO VE N SE SA

LE CAL

CORTE

IO ED M L RE DE

DEL FORNO

ZON

San Lorenzo

LE SAN

CORTE NOVA

FA GIUF

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

CORTE

NUOVA

San Giuliano

INA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

FON

CAL

CALLE ERIZZO

LE DE CAL

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

CALLE

Rio San Lorenzo

A SC TA

E DEL CAFE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

CALL

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

GA RU

O AT USS M

IA ER EL SS CA

LE CAL

DE LE BAN

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

TA EN AM ND FO

LICINI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE

L IO

CORTE

RUBBI

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

IOL

Sa E

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

I OR

R io

SAL VAD OR

CORTE GRAGOLINA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CORTE

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

LL E

LIO

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CALLE CAVALL I

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C.M

Santa Maria del Pianto

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

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Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

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San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

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Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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CAMPIELLO STELLA

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CAN ZIAN

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

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Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

SANT’ELENA

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

15 TORCELLO

S. Servolo

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47

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