VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
JANUARY 2020
W W W.WHERE-VENICE.COM
LIKE A MODERN-DAY
Casanova
Following in the footsteps of the world’s most famous libertine
ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
吃喝玩乐 尽在这里
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
WELCOME TO ITALY
Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®
www.where-venice.com
Dear Visitor, Welcome to Venice! Our country has been a world tourism destination for more than 500 years, even before the word ‘tourism’ was coined in the XIX century. Now that more than one billion tourists travel throughout the world annually, Italy is the fifth most visited country in the world with 58.3 million tourists. And it’s not a coincidence.
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Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF
Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) MANAGING DIRECTOR
Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR
Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com)
If you’re here on a pleasure trip, you already know why Italy has such enormous appeal. If, on the other hand, you’re here for business, look around and let Where® be your guide. You can use our magazine as a manual to discover and enjoy the country’s most unique aspects. Whether it’s a question of history, beautiful landscapes, the number of different experiences available, the food, or the warm, friendly people, remember that the diversity of this unique country is embodied within just a few kilometers: from the north to the south, from the east to the west, from the sea to the mountains, from the countryside to the art cities. Don’t forget that only a few kilometers from where you are now, you can enjoy the experiences of a lifetime. To make sure you don’t miss them, consult Where®. We’re in love with Italy and we want to share this love with you.
CONTRIBUTORS
Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY
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City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 MARKETING & ADVERTISING
Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION
Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR
Paola Grilli (paola.grilli@whereitalia.com)
The Publisher
HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER
SEASON MOOD IN VENICE
Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES
Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG
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Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.
Venice is a city unlike any other. Its appeal transcends the seasons, its beauty remains unchanged. During this period, it’s far less packed, blessed with soft, romantic pastel colours, a few drizzly days and a clear blue sky. And, if you’re lucky, a sprinkling of snow on the lagoon. Absolutely unmissable! 2 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION
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Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.
MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning
Venice January 2020 30
10
DINING
the guide
INSIDER TIPS
22 SHOPPING
The apothecary of the Carmelite monks and its adjacent ‘mystical’ garden are a well-kept secret in Venice.
BAGARON C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
30 DINING
6
In a 15th century palazzo, there’s a restaurant that re-interprets typical Venetian dishes. It’s called Glam and has just earned its second Michelin star.
HOT DATES
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JANUARY 2020
Contents
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VENICE CITY GUIDE
In January, Venice’s musical scene is richer than ever thanks to five dates featuring the fabulous music of Musikàmera.
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Top in town 1
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 4 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 6 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its
name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 5 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a
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pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561.
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 2 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 3
SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 7 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES OPERA
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LOVE AND DEATH
Giuseppe Verdi’s masterpiece, “La Traviata”, one of the world’s most popular operas, whose arias are instantly recognizable, will be staged at Teatro La Fenice JANUARY in its most classic version signed by Robert Carsen. The opera, based on ‘La Dame aux Camélias’, a play by Alexandre Dumas, the younger, tells the story of the dramatic life and tragic death, by tuberculosis, of the ‘courtesan’ Violetta, the unhappy ‘innamorata’ of the young Alfredo. The opera has a strong connection with Venice: it was first performed at Teatro La Fenice on 6 March 1853 (and was a flop!) Giuseppe Verdi, La Traviata Teatro La Fenice, San Marco 4387. www.teatrolafenice.it
PH © MICHELE CROSERA
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JANUARY
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
© MICHELE CROSERA
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES FOLKLORE
The Regatta of the ‘Befane’ Grand Canal, between Rialto and Sant'Angelo. www.bucintoro.org
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CELEBRATIONS IN RIALTO
▼ An official holiday in Italy, Epiphany commemorates the arrival of the Magi in Bethlehem to pay tribute to the newborn Christ. JANUARY Traditionally, 6 January is also the day on which Italians celebrate the ‘Befana’ (sometimes known as the good witch of Christmas). In Venice the event is celebrated with a costumed regatta, organized by the rowers of the Bucintoro, the city’s oldest rowing company. The race, which lasts for about fifteen minutes, is followed by numerous rowing boats, helmed by men dressed either as Father Christmas or ‘La Befana’, plus a huge crowd of rowing aficionados and onlookers. The race starts on the Grand Canal, at the point where Banca d’Italia is headquartered. The rowers then paddle up to the halfway point in the Rio San Polo district, towards the Rialto Bridge, competing to be the first to reach the giant stocking, the symbol of the regatta, that hangs from the bridge. During the race hot chocolate, mulled wine, sweet treats and candies are handed out on the Riva del Vin.
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PEGGY IN VENICE
▲ The Peggy Guggenheim Collection SEPTEMBER JANUARY celebrates the Venetian 2019 2020 life of its founder, highlighting the events and exhibitions that marked the thirty years she spent in Venice, from 1948 to 1979, which proved to be significant milestones in the history of 20th-century art. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni will display the majority of works that Guggenheim purchased between 1938, when she opened her first gallery in London, and 1947, when she moved to Venice. A unique opportunity to see her historic collection, almost in its entirety, from Marcel Duchamp to Francis Bacon (see also page 39).
Peggy Guggenheim. The Last Dogaressa Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Dorsoduro, 701. www.guggenheim-venice.it
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THE DARK CENTURIES OF VENICE
Justice and punishment in Venice, amidst torture, inquisitions, legends and historical events. The exhibition, spread over an entire floor of the Gothic Palazzo Zaguri, reveals the secrets and darker side of Venice. It tells the story of the criminal justice system of the Serenissima between the 13th and 18th centuries through unique artifacts, historical replicas and evocative reconstructions. The itinerary winds amidst prison cells, instruments of death and torture, documents and plastinated bodies, accompanied by in-depth historical and educational annotations.
SEPTEMBER 2019
MAY 2020
Venice Secrets. Justice Torture Death Palazzo Zaguri. Campo San Maurizio, San Marco 2667/a-2668 www.venicesecrets.net, www.palazzozaguri.it
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EXHIBITION
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LAST DAYS UNTIL
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THE NORMALCY OF CHILDHOOD
▲ Italian artist Chiara Dynys brings her vision of today’s social and anthropological JANUARY issues to the Correr Museum, after exhibitions dedicated to two internationally renowned artists, Jenny Holzer and Shirin Nesha. The theme of her exhibition is childhood games. These are the games played by children living in the Lebanese refugee camps of Sabra and Shatila who, despite living in these ghettoes, remain childlike, behaving in a disarming, and seemingly normal way.
CHIARA DYNYS. Sabra Beauty Everywhere Museo Correr. San Marco, 52. correr.visitmuve.it
From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections. Palazzo Ducale - Appartamento del Doge, San Marco 1. www.visitmuve.it
MASTERPIECES
JAN DAVIDSZ DE HEEM, STILL LIFE WITH FRUITS, PRIVATE COLLECTION | COURTESY MUSÉE NATIONAL D'HISTOIRE ET D'ART LUXEMBOURG © PHOTO: MNHA | TOM LUCAS
FEBRUARY 2020 8-25 February Carnival of Venice Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas.
23 May-29 November Biennale Architettura 2020 “How will we live together?” will be the theme of the 17th International Architecture Exhibition. Architect and scholar Hashim Sarkis is the curator of the exhibition.
MARCH 2020 25 March-26 July Le Stanze del vetro – Venice and American Studio Glass An extraordinary diversity of contemporary American art and design in glass.
31 May Vogalonga 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.
APRIL 2020 25 April Festa di San Marco or Feast of St. Mark In addition to being a national holiday, on this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city. MAY 2020 23-24 May Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ ceremony.
FLEMISH TREASURES
▼ The exhibition titled ‘From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections’ at Palazzo SEPTEMBER MARCH Ducale treats visitors to a breathtaking 2019 2020 sight: the magnificent Doge’s apartments decorated with the greatest masterpieces from the rich Flemish collections. In addition to canvases of inestimable worth by artists including Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of sophisticated works. These masterpieces from Flemish collections are rarely lent, and some of them are being shown to the public for the first time.
JUNE 2020 23-28 June Feast of San Piero de Casteo JULY 2020 18 July Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca canals, and fireworks.
SEPTEMBER 2020 2-12 September International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art The 77th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia, and runs at Lido di Venezia. The Festival also organises retrospectives and tributes to major figures. 6 September Regata Storica /Historic Regatta One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. 11 September-11 October Homo Faber An unprecedented showcase of the finest European craftsmanship at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini (Isola di San Giorgio): an international cultural event to showcase fine contemporary, traditional and rare craftsmanship and its link to the world of creativity and design. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS
In the footsteps of Casanova
10 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
Casanova was the perfect incarnation of 18th century Venice: a world of frivolity, dissolution, partying, gambling, banquets and daring escapades. Let’s follow in his footstep and immerse ourselves in a rarely seen, seductive and mysterious Venice. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI
© KAVALENKAVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
G
iacomo Casanova was a philanderer, explorer, writer, poet, alchemist, mathematician, philosopher and a secret agent. An incurable libertine, renowned for his irresistible charm, hundreds of books and dozens of films have contributed to enveloping his figure in an aura of romantic mysticism. He was the seducer by whom all others are measured, the man who gave his name to that charming, roguish breed. Giacomo Casanova’s life was definitely unconventional; a heady mixture of luxury, adventures, love affairs and gambling, but also squalid prison cells, daring midnight escapes through ‘calli’ and canals, exile and endless adventures. Casanova embodies 18th century Venice to perfection – this was a complicated period, during which the Serenissima was beginning to lose political and economic power, along with a growing desire for frivolous entertainment and hedonism. Throughout the 1700’s, daily life in Venice was an ongoing Carnival, characterized with parties, masked revelries, gambling and loose morals. A context in which Giacomo Casanova moved with ease. In order to give you an idea of this magical, yet complex century, we offer you a unique Venetian itinerary in the footsteps of Casanova, amidst ‘calli’, ‘campi’, ‘campielli’, sumptuous palaces, cafes, inns, prisons and casinos. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 11
WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS The early years Giacomo Casanova was born in 1725, in Calle Malipiero, in the district of San Marco, where a plaque testifying to his birth can be found. His widowed mother was an actress, who spent her time travelling around the world so that she could pursue her acting career, leaving the young Giacomo to the care of his grandmother, who lived in the nearby Corte delle Muneghe. From Calle Malipiero, our tour takes us to Campo San Maurizio, in the San Marco district, where erotic poet, Giorgio Baffo, an ardent admirer of Casanova’s mother, lived. Baffo had an enormous influence on Casanova, initiating him into the art of seduction. Here, we find the beautiful Palazzo Bellavite where, in addition to Giorgio Baffo, renowned author Alessandro Manzoni also lived for a short period of time. The interesting church of San Maurizio, featuring a neoclassic façade is also in the area. It was here that Giorgio Baffo was buried in 1768.
A bon vivant… in all senses
order a typical Spritz, accompanied by a rich assortment of snacks including meatballs, sandwiches and crostini. Not far from here, in Campo de le Beccarie, practically inside the fish market, you’ll find Poste Vecie, another trattoria that was once patronized by the famous adventurer, which is still operating today. Housed inside a picturesque, former 16th century post office, decorated with frescoes and fireplaces, it serves typically Venetian fare. In summer, you can dine in the garden, located in an old Venetian courtyard, in the shade of a wild grapevine (www.postevecie.com). From here, it’s a short
walk to St. Mark’s Square, where Casanova frequented the historic Cafè Florian. Founded in 1720, this elegant café was patronized by a prestigious clientele including writers, poets and intellectuals, from the time that it opened. The interiors, including the Chinese room, with its majestic statuary, interspersed with gold leaf decorations and red velvet banquettes, the opulent Sala delle Stagioni, embellished with mirrors and gilded decorations, or the Liberty room, featuring turquoise decorations, parquet flooring inlaid with precious woods and Murano glass wall lamps, have remained unchanged. It’s like magic, everything here
© MARCO CECCHINATO
In addition to women, Casanova loved eating and drinking, banquets and ‘cicchetterie’ (wine bars where you can drink and sample local specialties). According to legend, he used to meet his lovers in the Rialto district, more specifically, near the Sotoportego dei Do Mori, where the old tavern that he frequently visited still stands. It’s called Cantina Do Mori, located on the same name street, and is one of the oldest ‘bacari’ in Venice. The locale serves an interesting selection of wines, and you can
Cafè Florian
Cantina Do Mori 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
Poste Vecie
Pozzi of Palazzo Ducale
Monaco & Gran Canal hotel
transports us back to Casanova’s Venice, and you can almost see him sitting in the corner, intent on seducing some noblewoman. If you want to soak up its atmosphere, you can order a cup of coffee at the counter, for a relatively small amount. Or, if you want to sit at one of its tables, remember that the experience comes at a price (www.caffeflorian.com). From St. Mark’s Square, it’s a short walk to calle Vallaresso, where you can still see a building that was formerly home to the famous Ridotto (Gaming House) of Palazzo Dandolo, in San Moisè. This casino was established in 1638, and it was here that Casanova wiled away the hours, and where, in order to protect customers’ identity, it was compulsory to wear a mask, known as a ‘bauta’. At that time, 136 locales of this nature existed in Venice, but this ‘Ridotto’, which was patronized by noblemen and courtesans, was the most famous of all. Today, it is a part of the Four-star Monaco & Gran Canal hotel (www.hotelmonaco.it).
A famous adventurer Casanova was renowned as a famous womanizer, but he was also a traveler and an adventurer. He was one of the few people who escaped from Piombi, the terrifying prisons of Palazzo Ducale, where he had been imprisoned on charges of libertine behaviour, magic, freemasonry and public outrages, and from which it was almost impossible to break out. After enlisting the help of a fellow prisoner, a renegade priest
named Father Marino Balbi, they fled via the roofs, through a hole in the ceiling. The two of them then managed to exit the building after convincing a guard that they had been locked in the building the night before after an official function. Today, you can visit Casanova’s cell at Palazzo Ducale, and experience this somber yet fascinating place close-up. If you’re interested in seeing a different, lesser-known side of the ‘Palazzo’, you can take a ‘Secret Itineraries’ tour. The route winds through several rooms and chambers, where the delicate work of some of the most important associations in the Venetian administration was carried out during the era of the Republic of Venice. In addition to Casanova’s cell, this itinerary allows you to visit the so-called ‘Pozzi’, the terrible, cramped holding cells were prisoners were detained, the office of the Grand Chancellor, the headquarters of what is known today as the General Archives, the beautiful Sala della Cancelleria Segreta (Secret Chancellery Chamber), whose walls are lined by cabinets containing public acts and secret agreements relating to the work of the Venetian judiciary, and, lastly, the depressing Stanza della Tortura (the Torture Chamber). The tour must be booked in advance and can only take place with an accredited guide (palazzoducale.visitmuve.it).
Palazzo Ducale
Women and friends
Casanova’s life was filled with hundreds of women. Some were friends, others were lovers scattered across Europe, so naming them all would be almost impossible. Some were more important than others, and their presence accompanied him throughout his life. One of the libertine’s most legendary affairs was with a woman who he refers to in his memoirs as M.M., a cloistered nun, perhaps a noblewoman of the Venetian aristocracy. It would appear that our paladin often attended
Cafè Florian is a glamorous place to stop and refuel: a magical, timeless location where you can enjoy a typical hot chocolate or an espresso
WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli on the island of Murano, not because he was a fervent Catholic, but because M.M. lived in the nearby monastery. Although the monastery no longer exists, you can visit the church, the object of a recent renovation involving the preservation of its 16th century decorations and its coffered ceiling, that features a richly decorated interior. If you disembark at the Venier stop, you’ll also find a wooden bridge that the nun used when leaving the convent to meet Casanova, who was waiting for her on a gondola, in the darkness of the night. Casanova’s friends and patrons included a senator of the Republic called Matteo Bragadin. It would appear that the young Canova saved Bragadin’s life when the latter took ill after leaving a wedding ceremony. To repay him, the senator invited him to come and live at the family’s palazzo, Palazzo Bragadin Carabba, in campo Santa Marina, in the Castello district. It was here, on the night
of 31 October 1756, that Casanova found refuge after his daring escape from the prisons of Palazzo Ducale. The building, dating back to 1342, has a beautiful mullioned window with four lights embellished with the family’s crest and marble heads. Would you like to visit it? Believe it or not, you can even stay here because it is now home to the Ca’ Bragadin Carabba hotel. Although it was converted and renovated in 2008, its elegant finishes and original atmosphere have remained unchanged (www.cabragadin.com). Our tour following in the footsteps of Casanova takes us to Palazzo Querini Stampalia, which our hero visited frequently because it belonged to two of his dear friends, Angelo and Andrea Querini. Located just a stone’s throw from St. Mark’s Square, Palazzo Querini Stampalia, currently the headquarters of the foundation of the same name, is one of the most interesting
Casanova Museum and experience If our itinerary has not fully satisfied your curiosity about Giacomo Casanova, just head the museum dedicated to him. Located in the rooms of Palazzo Malipiero, in the San Marco district, it offers the ultimate Casanova experience, and one that faithfully represents the persona and life of this famous master of seduction. All the aspects and experiences of history’s most famous womanizer, intellectual, philosopher and alchemist, are explored through avant-garde technology, multimedia devices, sets, screenings of never-seen-before life-sized images and virtual reconstructions (casanovamuseum.com).
14 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli
architectural complexes in Venice. The first floor houses a library, while a museum featuring paintings, furniture, porcelain, sculptures and objets d’art is located on the piano nobile (www.querinistampalia.org). In the vicinity of Campo S. Angelo, we find the Rossini cinema, which at the time of the Republic of Venice, was a playhouse known as Teatro San Beneto, and was one of Casanova’s favourite haunts. Lastly, the Castello district is home to Casanova’s last Venetian residence, where he lived with the young Francesca Buschini. Casanova’s relationship with her was his last important love affair. Even when he was far from home, he kept up an ongoing correspondence with her, and continued to pay the rent. The apartment is located in Barbarìa delle Tole, at number 6673, and corresponds to the three windows on the third floor located beneath the ceiling on the top left hand side of the building.
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed! ®
▲ LOUIS VUITTON This ‘Color Blossom’ necklace, from the Maison’s same name collection, pays tribute to the brand’s iconic Monogram flowers. Crafted in 18 carat pink-gold, it is embellished with two motifs engraved on hand-polished motherof-pearl. The pink Star and white Sun designs are joined by a brilliant round diamond. it.louisvuitton.com
▼ GIORGIO ARMANI These soft wool scarves with a contrasting jacquard logo are part of the ‘Giorgio Armani Neve’ line. The line features other stylish accessories including ski suits, boots, round-neck sweaters, leggings and gloves. The scarves are available in orange and black. www.armani.com
CHANEL
▲ PRADA The curvy design of the Prada ‘Sidonie’ Saffiano leather bag is enhanced by shiny metal hardware such as the metal loop on the strap closure, the sliding chain and the iconic lettering logo on the front. www.prada.com
Chanel’s ‘Eclat Magnétique de Chanel’ is characterized by a graphic motif that recalls a mandala of light or a radiant rosette. This Metal Peach illuminating powder in a satiny peach colour sparkles with golden shimmers. www.chanel.com
BORSALINO
▲ BALENCIAGA This sneaker with two-tone laces and a tricolor sole is made of a technical fabric developed exclusively for Balenciaga. It has an ergonomic curve and a ‘no memory’ sole that guarantees a perfect fit. 100% Made in Italy. www.balenciaga.com
In honor of the great actor Humphrey Bogart, who always wore Borsalino hats, the brand has launched its third season collectable the ‘Bogart by Borsalino Cut 3’: a high crown and medium brim, personalized with blueberry shaved felt and an exclusive two-color band with Jacquard print. www.borsalino.com w w w.wh e re t rave le r. com 15
WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE
gondola
All about the
16 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century.
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Private gondolas no longer exist and the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim.
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Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized
oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier
– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).
w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17
PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from
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a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric
elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.
A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
The allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. In terms
Bassano del Grappa
Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the Castle of Miramare in Trieste offering a charming panoramic view and the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, a Renaissance marvel.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Verona
of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence.
Verona: founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one
Trieste, Castle of Miramare
Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: the port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the
PHOTO © TRAVELVIEW / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.
late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 21
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A souvenir that you weren’t expecting The apothecary of the Carmelite monks and its adjacent ‘mystical’ garden are a well-kept secret, despite the continuous flow of tourists who pass its front door daily. By Chiara Zaccarelli
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t’s not unusual to find yourself at the station just before leaving, when you suddenly realize that you’ve forgotten to buy something: a hand cream, a lip balm, a perfume, or a small gift to take home as a souvenir. However, it’s very unusual to find a small natural health shop where you can purchase products made by the monks in the adjacent garden. At the small apothecary of the Discalced Carmelite monks, located at the side of the church of Santa Maria di Nazareth (which hosts a fresco by Tiepolo), you can purchase balms and herbal extracts, herbal products and fabric items, including recycled PVC bags made by the inmates of the Santa Maria Maggiore prison in Venice. The Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) preparations, 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
grown in the picturesque garden are skillfully transformed by the monks into a variety of remedies, and are an absolute must. The most popular is Lemon balm water, one of the best-known therapeutic remedies of Carmelite tradition, renowned for its myriad properties. Its formula, which was invented by the friars at the beginning of the 17th century, is thought to have a positive effect on digestion, and to improve memory, concentration and cognitive functions. Due to the circulation of counterfeit products by other apothecaries, the Discalced Carmelites of Venice obtained the exclusive right to produce and sell Lemon balm water from the government of the Republic of Venice in 1754 and, since then, have continued to produce it according to the original ancient recipe.
>> www.acquadimelissa.com – www.giardinomistico.it Via Cannaregio 54, c/o Chiesa degli Scalzi T: 348 7728430. Map C3
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
The
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING This directory, grouped
by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 24. Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAXFREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge. All details are correct at the time of going to oress but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.
Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2(San Tomà stop). Map D4
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORE T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
DOLCE&GABBANA www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5
The metal closure of this iconic FURLA ‘Metropolis’ Ruby bag is decorative yet strongly recognizable. It can be carried as a shoulder or crossbody bag.
MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
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of weaving on original looms thatLEonce belonged 12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 ND TER V O LT À BA IS O RBA FRU RAMO to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO 9.30am-4pm T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria DE ORO (Sat-Sun by appointment). Antichi Splendori CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art Ca' Pesaro N S D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia T: DEL 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio RA alleria Internazionale and antiques, the mission of Tthis highly qualified VALMARANA PESTRIN DA CA Le Zoie L C O RT E LE stop). Map D3 San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna antique dealer is to keep the interest in V B ATA G I A AR VA IS Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based CORTESE CAMPIELLO personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop STELLA CORTE NOVA store in Venice offers a careful selection of the showcase antique watches and jewelry but SantirareApostoli city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus CAMPIELLO also specializes in collections WIDMANN CAMPIELLO that are unlikely to CAL TI OZ GAB LE on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI LI be found elsewhere, including objects inspired to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann Al Duca d'Aosta by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical C A M Pconcoction IELLO Chiesa Evangelica N landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L E Originally in Venice in 1902, Al Duca L Eestablished also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat WIDMAN Luterana SCU OLE Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. E LL d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. CA CAMPO info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 S.MARIA NOVA Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. CAMPO DELLA CAL LE (Rialto stop). Map F4 San Cassiano LAR PESCARIA G AUdine. The historical four-storey N ZI A N stop). Map E3 Treviso and Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato G. G N CA A S A A D L L IN A S A LI ZA Santa Maria RI Venice location features over 100 top fashion Antichità San Samuele CAMPO O DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua brands for men and women, carefully selected An antiques dealer since the Seventies, IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo A CO CA C A LL Eclientele quality and elegance. These Antique books and priceless prints focusing LL to offer its LI CAMPO Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research CAMPO DEL ED FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ L E ED primarily on preservation and authentic include casual men’s for a sporty-chic look, MU SANTIlines GIOVANNI GIÀ CAS San and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP EL TEL TI LI DELLA A BO PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Samuele specializes in religious antiques, sartorial designs forEsavvy-style gentlemen and PASSION Malibran TIP with CAMPO bookbinding methods. Teatro CA LL E DE SAN GIACOMETO LE ER Chiesa dell’Ospe Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, BE featuring the iconic accessories women’s wear, a particular focus on sculptures dating from the C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th of the latest collections, including small leather DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA L 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 13th through NS LO ON di3130 Rialtocentury Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitanBARBARIA DE LE TO DE I 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, LE CA Casa di RA 12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. MP aesthetic. The store offers numerous special O (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Polo RIALTO www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle facilities and services for its customers, including SOL Samuele stop). Map E4 Fontego Marco NUOVO line 2DEL (San della T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line deiMandola). Tedeschi a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free O AN V A CA Antichità Zanutto LR LLE Sant’Aponal DEL 1 or 2C .(Rialto stop). Map E4 Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun DE DEL C .M FON TA E A P T EGO RT IN IO M BO EN ContinuingRUGaH longstanding family tradition, Ponte GO 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, SAN F D. P CAL LE G ALL SA GIOOND CAMPO Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua di Rialto CORTE E IA CAMPO N Z CORTE LIZ in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San ZO VA AM DO TREVISAN line 1 NN EN ZA CAMPO 4945. T: 041 5220733. DELVaporetto ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO I LA TA DA LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIOweavers specializing in the production Artisanal E RA Marco to open his workshop specializing in D CAMPO NO X E Map F4 (Rialto stop). L L SAN LIO CA Rialto of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings antique paintings, with a particular focus on CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique IZ A place! DE Marina Rinaldi FORMOSA Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G DEI PRETI ALIA has practiced theL IOart Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO ZZO certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- CALL Since 1875, the company LI
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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4
26 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
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Teatro Verde
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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON
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LIDO DI V
SHOPPING fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
Pot-Pourrì
Palmanova Outlet Village
Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store
Follow the trail with The Merchant of Venice
The Merchant of Venice’s journey along the ancient routes traversed by Venetian merchants continues. One of the latest brand’s fragrances is inspired by the aromas and precious materials of Asian lands: Blue Tea. Following in the footsteps of Marco Polo, the fragrant aroma of a blue-tea infusion brings alive incredible tales of distant lands. The delicate and mysteriously romantic blue petals of the butterfly pea flower, commonly found in South East Asia and used for the brewing of blue tea, have endured through the centuries. To date, the Blue Tea flower has never been used before in a fragrance, but after hundreds of combinations and elaborations, this elegant fragrance has been masterfully bottled by The Merchant of Venice through the alchemy of perfumery. The Blue Tea bottle itself has a signature silhouette: white with a blue Chinoiserie design. The white recalls Chinese white glass, which is similar in appearance to porcelain. This blow mold system was invented in Murano around the 15th century to imitate the first Chinese porcelain objects that came to Europe, where the secret of its manufacture was still unknown. www.themerchantofvenice.com
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PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO
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Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
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SAN
Teatro la Fenice
DELLA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO SAN LIO
C. DEL
SAN
C.DE
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
FREZZERIA
BOTERI
SESTIERE
ORESI
DEL
CAOTORTA
Santa Maria del Giglio
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
CALLE
CALLE CAPPUZZI
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
DE
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
SABION
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
San Fantin
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
ALLO
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
San Maurizio
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
ZATTERE
DEI
PISCINA
CROSERA
Santo Stefano
FALIER
San Vidal
FONDAMENTA
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
FONTEGO
PIO
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
MAZZINI CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
FONDAMENT
LARGA
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
LARGA
SAN CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
BOTEGHE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
CAL
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CALLE
TEATRO
MARCO
CAFETIER
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPO MANIN
DEL
DEL
VENIER
CALLE
RAVANO
San Silvestro
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
NOVA
PARANGON
DEL
RUGHETA
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
Zattere
Giudecca Hilton
PRIULI
Santa Sofia
STRADA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
RUGA
DEL
CARROZZE
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
VOLTI
CALLE
SARTORI
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
BOTA
Sant’Aponal
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
CA’
ZEN
CALLE
San Beneto San Luca
SAN
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
FABBRICHE
CALLE
LE
LE
CATENE
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CATERINA
LE
TRAGHETTO
DE
CALLE
DE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
FONDAMENTA
LA
DEL CALLE
nde
NARISI FOND.
CROSERA
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE BERNARDO
Ca' Rezzonico
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
DE DE
CARAMPANE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
NOVE
CALLE
SANTA
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
S. SALIZADA
LONGO
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FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
MORETTI
CALLE CALLE
LE
CAMPO SAN APONAL
DEL
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LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
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LE PAZIENZE
DE
A
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
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Palazzo Fortuny
SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO
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TRAPOLIN
STUA
PERDON
CA’ CORTE
Accademia
FOND.
ZATTERE
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LA
CALLE
TIOZZI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Sant'Angelo
CALLE RAMO
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DE OGNISANTI
AL
DEI
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
San Barnaba
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
FODAMENTA
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
CANAL RIO TERA’
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
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San Felice
S.Stae
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
MADONA
ROSSA
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
IS
TA
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
SCALETER
San Tomà
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BESAGIO
M
FONDAMEN
VENDRAMIN
DEL
DE
DEL
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
FONDAMENT
VENEZIA
TA
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
C.
EN
CALLE
DE LA
CAZZIOLA
Rio
SAN
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
DE
FORNO
FONDAMENTA BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
D
CA'
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
ZANE
CROSERA
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
N
TA
SAN
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
Madonna
MORI
FONDAMEN
RAMO
Rio Nuovo
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
SALIZADA
CALLE CHIESA
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
DEL
TABACCHI
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
S. Basilio
DELLA
NA
Santa Fosca
CALLE
NUOVA LARDONI
C.
CA
NA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
LE
ALE
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
PRETI
L’ASEO
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
NIE
DD
DE
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
DE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TERÀ
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
.DA
MA
TRON
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CALLE
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CALLE
LA
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
PAPADOPOLI
DE L’OGIO
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
C.
DE
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
À D E
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
LA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
SAN
BASEGO
RIO
FO de Servi N
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
TINTOR
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SALIZADA
CALLE
Misericordia
FO
CALLE
L’ISOLA
DEL
FON.
CALLE
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
DE
DE LA VIDA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
SCHI
NICOLO’ SAN
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
TERA’
RAMO
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
CALLE ORSETTI
TA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE
MINOTTO
Magazen
della
TER
CALLE
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN
CANAL CORTE
LUNA
Rio
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
Rio
La Maddalena
NOVA
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMA
SIMEONE
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
CERERI
IA
RIO
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
FONDAMEN
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
DEI
RD
R
STRADA
BIASIO
DI
BARI
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
DEI
FONDAMENTA
DEI FONTEGHERI
ICO
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
VECCHIO
C.
NUOVA
RIZZI
PROCURATIE
LARGA
PONTE
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
PENSIERI
FONDAMENTA
LISTA
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
DEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
CALLE TRAGHETTO
RIVA FONDAMENTA
San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
MADONA
MIS
E DEL PISTO
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
MUNEGHE
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
CALLE
LA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMIN DEL
RIELLO CALLE
CALLE
NA
Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
RIO
LA
TA
Rio
CALL
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
NUOVE
CROCE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
CALLE
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
SE
RDIA
CROCE
CALLE
AM
I
A E M
MISERICO
TO
LER
LL
LA
RIO
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
San Leonardo
DEI
TERÀ
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
nde l Gra Cana
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
People Mover Venezia
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Rio
DE
TI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
EN
FO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
TRONCHET
AM
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
SAVORGNAN
CALLE DEI FUSERI
PU
San Girolamo
A
San Geremia
SALONI
CA
C.
FO
LE
O
SPAGNA
AI
DE
AM
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
DI
ZATTERE
TA
OL
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT
LISTA
FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
EN
LLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
AM
N G IR
DEL
ND
SA
CAPITELO
CASE
TA
CALLE
FO EN
TE
TERÀ
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
CALLE
TA
QUERIN,
BECCARIE
EN
CAVALLET
CA
CALLE
AI
CALLE
LE
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
PRIULI
SEBASTIANO
FORNER
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
CALLE
BRAGADIN
DEL
DE
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
GIOBBE
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
della
CARLO
FO
A
San Giobbe
VENIER FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENT
TO
DEL SABION
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
TRONCHET
FONDAMENTA
LARGA
FONDAMENT
A
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
DEL
CORTE
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
NOVA
FONTEGO
ER
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
B
ISOLA
LA
Parco
LI
People Mover Venezia
SALITA
LA
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
NANI
EL
CANOSSIANE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FOSCARINI
LE
FONDAMENTA
A
TERRÀ
VI
LE
ER
DE
B
TO
COLORATA
Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENT
LI
O
MURANO CALLE
LA
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
EL
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
D
del
LE
CALLE
A
Rio
VI
PORTO MARGHERA
CALLE
The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.
TORCELLO
FONDAME
home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.
DI
As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp
FONDAMENTA
Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.
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FAUSTA
Piedàterre Sensual and sophisticated, the new ‘Gilio’ fragrance by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO comes in a blown glass bottle crafted by VENINI. The fragrance is a re-interpretation of the maison’s iconic perfume.
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia. eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were
the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3
Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4
Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4
Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com
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DINING
Glam and exquisite In a 15th century palazzo, there’s a restaurant where you can sample gourmet cuisine that re-interprets typical Venetian dishes. It’s called Glam and has just earned its second Michelin star. By Chiara Zaccarelli
I
n the heart of Venice, in the Santa Croce district, there’s a temple of haute cuisine that, two years after opening, has earned its second Michelin star. Its name is Glam, and it’s a supernova in the firmament of Chef Enrico Bartolini, the ‘King Midas’ of Italian haute cuisine, who now boasts eight stars at five restaurants across Italy. Glam is located inside Palazzo Venart, a five-star luxury hotel situated inside a 15th century palazzo, where luxury is expressed in the harmonious marriage between the past and present: wooden beams, Venetian flooring, oriental boiserie and precious fabrics. The restaurant blends in seamlessly with the hotel’s intimate, fairytale-like ambience. The airy, light-filled dining room, enhanced 30 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
with an allusive play of mirrors, accommodates up to 30 people. The young, talented resident Chef, Donato Ascani, serves classic Venetian specialties, created using modern techniques, and interpreted in a contemporary key. Particular attention is paid to the choice of raw materials, vegetables, meat and the catch of the day. Bartolini’s must-trys include risottos – the most iconic of which is risotto with red turnips and a gorgonzola sauce – and also ‘robust’ second courses like pigeon, or kidneys. A wide selection of first-class wines and impeccable, attentive service complete the whole. >> www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5235676. Map E3
Donato Ascani and Enrico Bartolini
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an
ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE 1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitanstyle cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or glutenfree flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Contemporary setting
The Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses, an exclusive strip of land covering 16 hectares, has a new chef, and a new concept. It is a tranquil, secluded retreat comprising a series of buildings dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These have been re-imagined in a contemporary key by renowned architect Matteo Thun, and Venetian materials and neutral colours blend harmoniously with the reflections of the lagoon. A unique gourmet destination that’s very different to the usual tourist itineraries. The restaurant’s new chef, Fabio Trabocchi, a native of the Marche region, has returned home after spending twenty years in the USA, bringing a touch of globalization with him. In spite of Fabio’s USA experience, his culinary offerings are a tribute to the Adriatic and to Italy as a whole. The menu features seasonal ingredients sourced from the Rialto Fish Market, but also from the island’s private vegetable garden. Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Hotel - Isola delle Rose. T: 041 8521300. www.jwvenice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
DINING
DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Martini
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!
€€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its Dorsoduro, 780rooms, (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto elegant dining welcoming atmosphere and line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Martini Map E6serves some of attentive staff, the Antico the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. La Conca d’Oro com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5 Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, Antico Pignolo this Venetian institution has been turning out The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. stop). Map F4 com. San Marco, 451(Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant Da Fiore
is housed in a 15th century building and decorated A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topwith original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4 selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. Lineadombra www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Map E3 spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. Gran Canal www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, Here you can taste the typical specialties of 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto linethe 5.1purest (Zattere stop) or 1 Venetian tradition, featuring expression (Salute Map E5 The restaurant’s main focus is of tastestop). and harmony.
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
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on seafoodCipriani and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on Locanda its terrace: the faces directly Forevocative those who want to berestaurant close to Venice, onto theworlds Grandaway, Canalthe offering diners an excellent yet feel Locanda Cipriani opportunity to combine the pleasures of the is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
restaurant. A farmhouse fromturning the exterior, it of the Venetian institution has been out some has been with great- €€€ charm, exuding best pizzarenovated in town. € (pizzeria) (restaurant). an understated elegance with beautiful www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€.Vaporetto www. SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. locandacipriani.com. Piazzastop). Santa Fosca Map F429 lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 Lineadombra from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then Perched the Off last Map bridge of the most beautiful take the 9online). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Taverna al Remerdinner where you can enjoy all spot for a romantic Located near to theof Rialto Bridge, this romantic the typical flavours the Venetian lagoon. €€€. ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. decor, which lends it an intimate, touch.or 1 T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 informal (Zattere stop) Although the Map menuE5 features simple, traditional (Salute stop). dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual Trattoria Do Forni pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. The ownerCannaregio, Eligio Paties5701. has managed to make this alremer.it. T. 041 5228789. restaurant a sought-after distinguished Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Orodestination, stop). by its F3 wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to Map the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of Trattoria Do Forni typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces Theremind owner Eligio has managed make will you ofPaties the carriages of thetolegendary this restaurant a sought-after destination, “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 fare, thanks to the quality of the dishesVaporetto and a (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute Wildner to the history of Fullin Venice. €€€. in www.doforni.it. San Opened by the family 1960, it is patronized Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 relaxed 5232148. by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, Vaporetto line or 2 (San Zaccaria). F4 atmosphere is 1further enhanced by Map a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Wildner fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties Opened by‘Baccalà the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized including Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. by localsonand tourists €€€. alike.c/o Its Pensione tranquil, relaxed Closed Tuesdays. Wildner. atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 view Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Map G4 or 5.1over (Santhe Zaccaria stop). fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Dal or 5.1Mas (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3
PASTRY SHOPS
Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Pasticceria Rosa Salva
This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. La Conca d’Oro www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of5227934. T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Italian specialties traditional Venetian www.kempinski.com/it/venice Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 Giuseppe and Giovanniand Costa, the founders of the dishes. 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this
ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.
Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6
Map F5
Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5
Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1
Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4
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Michelin-starred restaurants
Oro
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this
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enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but
Š #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET
Il Ridotto
Quadri
Glam
wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map
Venissa
Rosso Venissa
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Osteria da Fiore
ENTERTAINMENT
The triumphant return of Musikàmera In January, Venice’s musical scene is richer than ever thanks to five dates featuring the great music of Musikàmera. The concerts will be held in a unique location, Teatro La Fenice’s Sale Apollinee. By Giulia Minero
I
nside Teatro La Fenice, there’s a more intimate but no less opulent space where great music takes centre stage. Until 12 November 2020, the Sale Apollinee will host the fourth season of Musikàmera, the renowned chamber music event. The 2020 edition features a number of important innovations, including a program designed to introduce audiences to the famous instrumental and vocal repertoire of chamber music from the 18th to 20th centuries. In addition to the participation of acclaimed international musicians, this season will be enhanced by an even greater
focus on Baroque music. The January calendar kicks off on 7 and 8 January with a performance by the OpTer Ensemble, the trio comprising Guglielmo Pellarin on the horn, Francesco Lovato on the violin and Federico Lovato on the piano. Starting at 8pm, the rooms will resound with the notes of Strauss’s ‘Till Eulenspiegels lustige Streiche op. 28’, Ligeti’s ‘Hommàge a Brahms’ and Brahms’s ‘Trio op. 40’. On 13 January, harpsichordist, Andrea Buccarella, winner of the 1st prize at the International Musica Antiqua Competition in Bruges in 2019, will treat audiences to a performance of Handel’s
A tribute to the Baroque music in one of Venice’s most magical venues
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‘Chaconne in G Major HWV 435” and ‘Suite in F Major HWV 427’, Scarlatti’s Sonata K 213 in D minor, Sonata K 113 in A Major, Sonata K 481 in F minor and Sonata K 204a in F minor. The evening will end on a high note with Bach’s French Ouverture BWV 831. The monthly program comes to a close on 26 and 27 January with young violinist Emmanuel Tjeknavorian and Austrian pianist Aaron Pilsan engaged in a performance of Beethoven’s ‘Spring Sonata op. 24’, Scubert’s ‘Rondò op. 70 D895’, Olivier Messiaen’s ‘Louange à l’immortalité’ and Fauré’s ‘Sonata op. 13’. >> www.musikamera.org
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ON SHOW Don’t miss “The Nutcracker” ballet by Pyotr Tchaikovsky on Tuesday 26. The Russian Classical Ballet will perform under the direction of Evgeniya Bespalova and Denis Karakashev. www.teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
WELLNESS JW Venice Spa Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment
cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. Facilities include a stunning heated indoor vitality pool that extends outdoors through a moveable glass wall, a sauna, bio-sauna, hammam and gym. Non-resident guests are welcome, and there is a dedicated JW Venice Spa dock for water taxis and boats arriving from across the lagoon. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map
The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa has been nominated the best hotel Spa in Italy and Europe at the "World Spa Awards 2019". c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary openair opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since
Gambling and glamour Inaugurated in 1638, the Casinò di Venezia is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. Situated on the first floor, the Wagner Restaurant offers the exclusive pleasure of refined dining with timeless delicacies and traditional Venetian fish specialities: three superb settings (the Sala Palma, Sala Gialla and Sala Rossa) are decorated with paintings and frescoes. And don’t miss the Marco Polo restaurant, ideal for a quick meal, offering a creatively trendy cuisine that includes Mediterranean and Venetian meat and fish dishes. www.casinovenezia.it/en. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop).
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An unexpected Venice
T
he ‘Ghetto’, the first Jewish quarter in Europe (1516), is located in the secluded ‘sestiere’ of Cannaregio. It’s now a vibrant neighbourhood where Jewish religious and administrative institutions are still headquartered today. The word ‘ghetto’ derives from the Yiddish pronunciation ‘geto’, the old Venetian word that indicated the ancient foundry on whose foundations the district was built. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’ allows visitors to soak up its magical, old-world atmosphere. Here you will notice five ancient synagogues, the so-called ‘Schole’, each one built for every ethnic-linguist group. While the synagogues are the heart of the ghetto, its symbols are the turreted houses, the ancient workshops, the monuments 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
dedicated to the Shoah, the writings and engravings describing the strict regulations that Jews were forced to observe and, even, the remains of the portals and gates. In fact, it was only after Napoleon seized the city, following the fall of the Serenissima, that the gates were torn down in 1797. In Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, you can see three famous pawn shops: the Banco Verde, the Banco Nero and the Banco Rosso (which still features its ancient sign and is one of the main attractions in the area). Various places in the ghetto, including the synagogues, the Midrashim (places of study) and the old cemetery can be visited by the public thanks to guided tours organized by the city’s Jewish Museum, a small, but beautifully curated museum (www.museoebraico.it).
PH © LOIS GOBE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
The Jewish Ghetto is more than 500 years old and it’s the most ancient Jewish quarter in Europe: a small world that has numerous charming corners just waiting to be discovered. By Elena Peverata
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.
Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but
Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection
of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it
SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.
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for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in
1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect?
San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown
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jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari1936® YOUR YOUR TRAVEL TRAVELING ING COMPANION COMPANION SINCE 1936®
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Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and ® is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian M A G A Z I N E style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com and funerary monuments of numerous famous WHERE SRL WHEREITALIA ITALIA SRL Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. people, including Via ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 20154 Milano. Milano. chorusvenezia.org. dei Frari. T: 041 T:T:02 33107015 02349951 349951--Fax Fax 02 02Campo 33107015 info@where-venice.com 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com Map D4
1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still
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display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione,
FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.
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Andrea Jarach AndreaGiovanni Jarach Santi e Paolo (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e
EDITORIAL EDITORIAL Paolo is considered the Pantheon (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL) of Venice
because all the Venetian doges, starting from MANAGING DIRECTOR MANAGING DIRECTOR the 13th century, are buried here, together with DanieleMisrachi Misrachi Daniele numerous other notable personages. www. EDITORIALCOORDINATION COORDINATION basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi EDITORIAL AlessandraeFinzi Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) Alessandra (redazione@where-venice.com) Giovanni Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in EDITORIAL Venetian STAFF dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on MAGAZINE Carey Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto, www.rominvenice.com), P.K.Stefania Daviddi, (Fondamente Nove Elena stop,Simona Ospedale Civile stop). Simona P.K. Daviddi, Peverata, Vida Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida Map F3 MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale Joy Lacanlale Scala Contarini del Bovolo WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Fonzi (coordination), Palazzo Contarini is Chiara an exquisite, late Gothic WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) building. However, what makes it such a (editor) Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com popular attraction today, was the addition, by ICONOGRAPHY Where® Italia, Dreamstime, its architects,Archivio in 1499, of an amazing, external ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock Shutterstock ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: ©lace. Where Italia srl. - 2017 cylinder perforated like© TheItalia architectural CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban FileWhere - www.urbanfile.org beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub Fast Network by Dmitry Goloub thatTrains can be enjoyedMap on reaching the top, is well MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva10am-1.30pm/2pmCarolo, worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo,Renna, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele 6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni Paola Zannoni (coordination Italy") Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo."Welcome San Marco,to4299 PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli Vaporetto linePaola 1 or 2Grilli (San Marco Vallaresso stop). COORDINATOR Map E4 ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) Scuola Grande dei Carmini LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) Housed in a 16th century Maria palazzo, it is the seat HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Granata of an ancient brotherhood and Granata all its original (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria
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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.
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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.
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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.
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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.
DRESS It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.
In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.
VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental
PHOTO © LOIS GOBE / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San
Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco
A hidden treasure Hidden in a maze of ‘calli’ and canals, just steps from Campo Manin, visitors will find an architectural gem featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The Scala Contarini del Bovolo is a historic building of unmatched beauty that also owes some of its charm to the intrigue surrounding its namesake staircase. According to historic records, it was commissioned by Pietro Contarini towards the end of 1400 to Giovanni Candi, referred to in historical records as a ‘marangon’, meaning a carpenter as opposed to an architect. This would explain the architectural inconsistencies of the building, which are quite noticeable when climbing the staircase. Mysteries aside, those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the top of this 26m ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell, enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace, to admire a rare view of the city.
42 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
| SIGHTSEEING
The “Scuole Grandi”
Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Scuola di San Rocco
Among Venice’s countless art treasures, buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole Grandi’ might be mentioned as unmissable attractions. It goes without saying that these are not schools in the accepted sense of the word, but one of the innumerable distinctive features of this unique city. During the ancient Republic of Venice, from the 13th century onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact, used to describe a brotherhood, or rather an association of lay members who met to provide assistance to poor people, widows, orphans, old and sick people. The ‘Scuole’ were divided into Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi) which gathered for religious purposes in the name of a patron saint, Schools of Arts and Crafts and Schools of Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic, they represented a real kind of welfare system, initially destined for members but later extended to the entire population. The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at their disposal, a part of which they invested to embellish their own headquarters with paintings by well-known artists including Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed, the most important Schools built palaces for their residents designed by famous architects, and adorned them with
paintings by the best artists of the era. After the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic edict (1807) and within the space of a short time their assets ended up at antique markets and collections throughout the world. Several of the best preserved Schools were reconstituted and transformed into museums that can now be visited by the public. These include the Great Schools of San Giovanni Evangelista (www.scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www.scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www.scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital), www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty of Science, Literature and Arts (www.ateneoveneto.org), were converted into public exhibition spaces and institutions. The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons), are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures are well worth a visit. Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità, suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to the magnificent Accademia Galleries.
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PH © CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ESSENTIALS
Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi
I
talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2020
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.
Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates
(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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Teatro Carlo Goldoni
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Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto
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ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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TTO
C.
SS
CAL
GN
A
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
Sant'Elena
F.
PA
ZU
LÒ
Japan Pavilion
CO
CAPPUCCINE
SANTA
CALLE
ORTI DEGLI
E
RN
AR
SANT'ELENA
VIALE
O
Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
ER
CA
N
LL CA
LL
SA
CA
E
Teatro Verde
A
CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE
CALLE CAVALLI
FONDAMENTA
PIETA’
CALLE
DEL TE DEUM
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAPPELLO
CALLE DEL FO
RAMO
CALLE
MAGNO CALLE
Nuove
Fondamenta delle
GRECI
Canale
STRETA
CALLE DEI
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Rio de San Gerolamo
CALLE DEL DOSE
CAGNOLETO
PESCARIA
DEL
CALLE
CALLE
DEI
FORNI
L’ARSENAL DE
CALLE DEL FORNO
COLONNE CALLE
MAGGIORE
NI
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
United States Pavilion
RE
MURAZZO
GIUSTINA
PE
ISEPO
PALUDO
EMB
CALLE ZORZI
FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO
EP
SAN
PALUDO
E IV NOV
CALLE
SALIZADA
US
TERÀ
CALLE
SAN GIORGIO
I
LA
N
EL
N
AR
VA
VIAL
DOSE DEL CALLE
IO
GR
RT
VI
E
AN
CA
LL
E
MA
SO
AL
E
N
VI
TT
OR
IO
VI
VE
AL
NE
RI
VI MA
DI
MO
E
IV
NO
VE
M
BR
E
Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
TO
Lido S. Nicolo'
SANT’ELENA
R E
RO
G
UE
N
SQ
E
DE
LL
A
FO
ER
IA
IA
V
ND
Ò
LL
K
LO
CA
OL
DELL'OLIO
ROTONDA
CANOSSIANE
LA DE
LARGA
CALLE
FERRANDO
CALLE
DE LE ERBE
NOBILI
LUNGO
STRETTA
ROTONDA
O
RA
LI
E
RIO CROCE
DEI
G
Rio d el Giardini
dei Rio
DE LA PIETA’
DE L MAGAZEN CALLE
CALLE
CORDONI DEI STELLA
CALLE CALLE
STELLA
SQUERO
CALLE
DEL CALLE
TESTA DE
LA
Rio
Dei
BANDI
MENDICANTI
FONDAMENTAMendicanti
CALLE NAVE
VOLTO
LA DE
DEL
FRUTARIOL
C.
PARADISO
DEL
DEL
CALLE
C.
CALLE
SANT’ANTONIO
CALLE
BALBI
C. DE LA MADONETA
FORNO
BO
DEL CALLE
DONZELLA C.
CALLE
BRESSANA
CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL
VENIERA
CALLE
CALLE
CORONA
DELLA
C.
LEONARDO
LA SACRESTIA
C. CORONA
CALLE RIMPETTO
ALBANESI
CALLE DE LE RASSE
CALLE DEL
STAGNERI
NUOVE
CALLE
LA DE
a
CALLE
DE
CATERINA
L’ABAZIA Misericordi
CAMPO
SANTA
della
FOSCARINI
LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
MISERICORDIA FOND.
RACHETA LA DE
FELICE
CALLE
I ZZ PO
Dolce
PRIULI
DO
FOORNO
Ca’
GA
DEL
RU
Rio
VELE DE
LE
CALLE
APOSTOLI
CALLE
PISTOR
SANTI
DEL
VERDI
CALLE
C.SANT’ANTONIO
RIO TERRÀ
SALIZADA
SOFIA
SANTA
CAMPO
BOMBASEI
APRILE II
CALLE
MERCERIA
LOVO DEL CALLE
C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
SALIZADA
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
DRIO
CANNAREGIO
CALLE DEI FUSERI
SALONI
E
LL
FONDAMENTA
GRANDE
GI
N
RIO
AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
DELLE
I CASE
CASE
CAPITELO
FONDAMENTA
DEL
PIAVE
CALLE
LARG
CALLE BECCARIE LE DE CALLE
C. ROSA
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
LARGA
CALLE
VECCHIA
ETTI,
TI,
LA
CALLE
FA R S
ET
CALLE
DE
DEL
RIELLO
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
RS RÀ
CALLE
FA
RIO T ERÀ
TE
CAMIN
RIO
COLOMBINA CALLE
PESARO
QUERIN,
CALLE
CALLE
TREVISAN
SAN CALLE
TRAGHETO
FONTEGO
MEGIO
DEL
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
DEL
SALITA
CALLE
C.
STAE
FORNO DEL
SAN
D’ORO
CA’
LUCIA
C.
CALLE
LARGA
SALIZADA
ROSA
SANTA
CALLE
GRUE
DEL
LE DE
CALLE
CARMINATI
CAMPANIEL
PICCOLO
REGINA LA
SALIZADA
DEL
FONDAMENTA
SIMON
DE
CALLE
BOTERI
DEI CALLE
L’ANZOLO
STUA LA DE
DE
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’
CALLE
DEL
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CALLE
ROCCO
SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI
CALLE
MUNEGHE
LE DE
CALLE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE
DEL
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
SANGIANTOFFETTI
EREMITE
FONDAMENTA
DEI CORTELLOTTI
FONDAMENTA NANI
FOSCARINI
FONDAMENTA
VENIER
CALLE
DA PONTE
FONDAMENTA
ra
CALLE
LL
CA
SANT'ELENA
MP
CA
O
CA
GE
JUNGHANS
Rio
N
NO
SA
I
TA
Le Zitelle
E
Parco delle Rimembranze LL
SANT'ELENA
EN
TI
AM
C
D
BO
N
LI
LL
SA
TE
BB
ZI
TA
E
EN
NT
IE
FONDAMENTA
MP
O
AM
CA
U I P
E
M
LL
IN
ND
E
CA
C.
OC
Santa Croce
VIALE PIAVE
CR
RD
CALLE
SA
CALLE
IA
PONTE
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
G
CALLE
EN
E
CORTE
AM
ND
AL
FIANCO
FO
CAMPO SAN ISEPO Giardini
S. Giorgio
VI
SAN GIACOMO
CENETTE
PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA
ALDI
CALLE
O
ACCADEMIA
A
IST
LL
Lungo
CE
R L C
IB PE GAR
DE
NA
ION
FONDAMENTA
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
C.
RI
MA
BB
IAN
RE
TA
ROSA
SALAMON
CALLE
SA
RI
CO
C.
GIUSEP
SARES
O E ANC
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
VIALE
CALL
TI
CALLE
COPPO
SCHIAVONA
AR
CALLE CORERA
CALLE
M
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
SANT'ANNA
SE
C A L L E C ATA PA N
TE
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
CALLE TERCO
F O N D A M E N TA
OSPIZIO
CALLE
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
AN
CALLE
I
EL
CALLE
de le
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
CH
FONDAMENTA
LE
San Francesco di Paola BALD CALLE
I S ET
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
DE
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
EN
CROCE
MI
Ponte
ENA
COLTRERA
CALLE
CALLE
GARI
EPPE
CALLE FRIZIER
AM
DELLA
E
ERBE
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
VA
C. LOREDANA
ND
CALLE
LL
LE
E N TA
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CALLE
FO
CALLE ALBERO
DE
RAMO DE
Punta della Dogana
FO
Redentore
O
Santissimo Redentore
CALLE MORE
del
AMEN
TANA
CALLE
SAN GI ACOM
CA
CAMPO
CALLE
FOND
DE LA
CROSERA
M E N TA
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
VIDA
CALLE
PICCOLO
LA
CASTELLO
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
DI
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
CALLE DELA CREA
Zitelle
IA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
San Martino
DEI FORNI
PIETRO
FEM
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
Arsenale di Venezia RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
MOROSINA
SAN
'EU
MARTIN
PESTRIN
CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
FORNACE
SALONI
NT
SCUOLA
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
GRITTI CALLE
C. VOLTO
TERRÀ
SA
CALLE
CALLE
CROSERA
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
CATECUMENI
RIO
TA
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE DE
SAN PISCINA
PIGNATER
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo
Giudecca Palanca EN
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
DEL PIOVAN
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
AM
DE
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
ND
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE
S C H I AV
BASTION
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
FO
COSMO
ANTONIN
DE
ZATTERE
FO
Sant'Eufemia
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
R I VA D EGLI S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Arsenale
BIAGIO
CALLE
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SCUDI
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
SAN
CONVERTITE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
100 m
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
SALIZADA
DEL
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TERRÀ
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
DEGLI
DEGLI
CALLE BOSELLO
VERONA
RIO
CALLE
San Lorenzo
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
Rio Del
C.
LA
MINELLI
PISCINA
DEL NOVA ISOLA
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
Scomenze
MARITTIMO
Canale
De
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA
PORTO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
O
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DE
San Gregorio
CALLE
DEI PRETI
CALLE
CALLE
GATE
ZORZI
DRASI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DE LE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
CALLE
DEI
DEI
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
RC
SALIZADA
C.
LATERANO
SEVERO
a
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
DEL
PISCINA
VERONA
A N M
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
SA
MEZO
DE CALLE
RUGA
DIREZIONE
BARBARIA
SAN
CORTE
NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
Palazzo Ducale
LO
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
DEL
SAN
O
SCHIAVONI
DEGLI
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
CALLE
LARGA
CALLE
RC
CALLE ERIZZO
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
MO
RIVA
Rio San Lorenzo
CALLE
DEL FORNO
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
Marittim
G. GALLINA
DEL
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
Museo Correr
FONDAMENTA
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
PIA
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
SAN
FABBRI
LARGA
LARGA
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
SALIZADA
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
ORBI
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
BERLENDIS
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
DEI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
DEL
San
CALLE
Rio
LA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
NOVE
CALLE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
BOTERI
VARISCO
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
CALLE
BEMBO
CALLE
DE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
SAN
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
DEI
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
Ca' Giustinian
Salute
PONTE
SACCA SAN
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
RIO
GIAZZO
CAMPO
SALIZADA
SAN
DELLE
CARRO
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CAL RAMO
S.Canciano
CALLE
SAN LIO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
DEL
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
REMER
CALLE
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
MAGAZZINI
VOLTI
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
MAGAZEN
FRUTARIOL
CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
O DEL
CINQUE
RIO
CALLE
AI
DEI
C.
DEL
FREZZERIA
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
COCCO
TOSCANA
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
DE
MOISE’
CALLE
DE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
LUCA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
RI
Palazzo Genovese
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE
Stazione
ORESI
MADONA
SAN
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
RUGA
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
MAZZINI
San Salvador
TEATRO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
SAN CANZIAN
FONTEGO
PIO
DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
ASSASSINI
San Fantin
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
TEATRO
CALLE
CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
LARGA
DEL
DELLA
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CALLE
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CALLE
SAN CALLE
MARCO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CAPPUZZI
SANTO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
FABBRICHE
CALLE
DOLERA
SPIRITO
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
LE
CALLE
zera
CATERINA
CALLE
GALIZZI
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
ALLO
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
SANTA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
Giudecca Hilton
CATENE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
ZATTERE
VAPORETTO
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
NARISI
BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
AI GESUATI
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
STURION
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LE
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
ZATTERE
DEL
LA
CAMPO DE LA
DEL SOL
DEL
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
C.
FOND.
SAN
CROSERA
San Vidal
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CALLE
VENDRAMIN
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
CALLE
CALLE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal PERDON
CALLE
de r an
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
LA
CARAMPANE
DEL
DEL
FONDAMENTA BONLINI
LE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
DE
DE
Palazzo Fortuny
DI SAN MARCO
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
CA'
DEL
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
SESTIERE
S.
CARROZZE
al G
Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
TRAGHETTO
DE
O
San Felice
TIOZZI
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Can
DEL
FOND.
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Palazzo Querini-Dubois
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BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
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d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
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CORTE DEL TEATRO
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S. Samuele
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Santa Fosca
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Palazzo Giustinian Persico
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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
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San Tomà
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Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
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Chiesa di Ognissanti
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San Giacomo dall'Orio
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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
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Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
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San Sebastiano SALIZADA
San Simeone Profeta
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Angelo Raffaele
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Madonna dell'Orto
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Museo Ebraico CAL
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Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
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Santa Maria di Nazareth
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People Mover Venezia
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People Mover Venezia
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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
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Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
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Santa Maria delle Penitenti
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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
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San Giorgio dei Greci
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w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47
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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – San Marco, 2467 (Campo S. Maria del Giglio) • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4
Maison Venezia | UNA Esperienze – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4
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Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice VENIC Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – E CITY GUIDE Mestre (Ve) LIK NH Laguna Palace – Viale CaE AsMaOnDERN-DAY ova Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)
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