Where Magazine Venice July 2019

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

JULY 2019

吃喝玩乐 尽在这里

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

Venice a la carte An insider guide to discover the city of water

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


SALE

STARTS 6 JULY* even more savings on outlet prices

mcarthurglen.it/noventadipiave *sale date may vary according to regional legislation


Venice July 2019 10

the guide

INSIDER TIPS

24 SHOPPING

The lifestyle department store T Fondaco by DFS offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

16

32 DINING

EXPERIENCE

6

1000 Gourmet’s rich menu comprises traditional recipes, creative variations and summer re-imaginings of the most authentic, thin, soft-crusted Neapolitan-style pizzas.

HOT DATES

Parco San Giuliano

20

GIFT GUIDE

ISOLA D

38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

E

A

IAN

OND

OSS

ROT

CAN

LA

GA

DE

LAR

LE

LE

CAL

CAL

O

ITEL

CAP

E

E DEL

G PIAV LAR C.

A

HIA

ROS

CC

GA

VE

A MASEN LA

DE

CALLE

NA

ERI

stol

i

CALLE

ti Apo San

I

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE LE

STEL LA CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

TEST A E DE

DOSE E DEL CALL

O

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

LA

SO

TAR

ADI

DE

DEL

FRU

C.

PAR

LE

DEL

CAL

C.

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

ILE APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

DEL

EI BAS

DEL CAL LE

CALL

SALIZADA

LO

SA

A N M

RC

O

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

NI

Punta della Dogana

LO SA AI RE TE ZAT TA EN

San

AM ND

I

FORNACE

TA

AMEN

INCURA

BILI

FOND

E AI GESUA TI

CALLE

FONDA

MENTA

ZATTER

ETTO

E ALLO

SPIRIT

CALLE ZUCCHERO

Zattere

O SANTO

FONDAME

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo

N

BIA

GI

O

FO

Sant'Eufemia FO

EN

TA

SA

NT

'EU

FEM

IA

ITE

FONDA

FERR TTA

O

MENTA

PONTE

PICCOL

O

GIUDECCA FONDA

M E N TA

SAN GI ACOM

FO

Redentore O

ND

AM

EN

TA

CR

OC

ND

AM

EN

ZI

TA

TE

E

CA

LL

E

CA

MP

IE

LL

O

CA

MP

O

DI

MA

RT

E

CA

FO

E LL

CA

LL

E

MA

SO

N CALL

STRE

E COSM

E

OS

LL

E

LLE

CALL

ANDO

'OLIO

VERT

N

D

AM

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca

E DELL

E CON

AM

CALL

CALL

ND

OMO

SA

LUNGO

TA

o

EN

ONTE

AM

DE LE ERBE

ND

RI

ILI

ANE

DE

LAVR

NOB

TE

CALLE

FO

PON

GRAN

DE LA SACA

A DEI

CALLE

RI

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

I

ZZ

ce

PO

Dol

DO

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

LI

R

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

SAN A CHI VEC

A

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

CA

C. NI

O

VAN GIO

L’ARC

SAN LE

CAL

E DE CALL RUG

LA

LLE

CA

DI

CA

CAL

CAT

TA

SAN

ARINI

MP

LUN

GA

FOSC

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

CA

de

ER

ICO

RD

IA

Can ale

. MIS

ND

FO

HET A

RAC

LA

DE

ICE

LLE

FEL

CA

SAN

NTA

ME

ULI PRI

LLE

FOO RN O

CA

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

DE CAL LE

RO

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

C.

I

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION CORTE

Palazzo Ducale

FO

O STIAN

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

ADIN

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CATECUMENI

SALON

BRAG

SAN TA

CAM PO

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

E

LE

RT

CAL

CO TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

DA

TRA GHE TO

DEL

C.

A ROS LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

A

ORB I DEI

CAL LE

LE DE

CAL LE

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI CAR FOS RÀ

Moise

TER

O

DEGLI

I

RIO

RC

MO

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

TERRÀ

GNESE

CA

Salute

RIO

SANT'A

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

PISCINA

MARCO

CANONI DE LA

VONI SCHIA RIVA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

MENTA

MA

SAN

VALLAR

CALLE

FONDA

ZZA

Museo Correr

CALLE

NANI

SAN

CALLE

SIONE

TA

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

ASCEN

AMEN

LARGA

FOND

PIA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DURO RE DORSO

DEL

GR LE

INA TI

DE

RM

TA

CA

EN

AD

AM

LIZ

ND

SA

FO

DO ON SEC A’

CRI STO DEL CAL LE

LI LIPO TA E STRE

CALL

CALL

FON

COLOM

IO MEG E DEL CALL

NO

E

STA

FOR

N

SA

DEL

A

LE

AD

CAL

LIZ SA

UE

GA LAR LE CAL

TER RIO

O ROCC

NESI ALBA E DEI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALL

E DI

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

O

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

San Gio

DEL

o

O

E

EDIO REM LE CAL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

ETT

EREMIT

Pa Q Sta

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

Palazz

EOL

MENTA

C.DEI

CA

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

E BIAN CALL

ALL CAV

ORS

FONDA

LE

CALL

ETTI,

ET RS

FA

TE

RIO

BINA

CALLE

GO

FONTE

SALITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

CALLE

QUERIN

,

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA

LLE CA

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

DE LE

Rio Del

DEL

A ENT

OTTI

FORNO

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

C.

DAM

DEI CORTELL

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

CARRO

Rio

CALLE

À

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

DEL TRAGHETTO

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

VAPOR

ZUL IAN

Bacino Orseolo

San Moisè

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

DEL

E C.

TER

CA TAS

San Giuliano

GIO ROLO DELL’O

AZZ

LE CAL

O

SAN

BRI FAB

SARTOR

CALLE

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

FON

MUN EGH E

LO EL RI E LL CA

A CI LU NT A SA

TA

LO

EN

CO

AM

De

e

al

an

C

O TIM RIT MA O

RT

PO

NE

ZIO

RE

DI

I

IN

LUCATE LLO

DEI

O SAT MUS

I HIER SPEC

ZZ

LIO

IA DAR SPA

GA

MEZ O

C.

ARIA MARZ

MA

DE

DEI

C. DEL

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

E DEI CALL

STR

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

CAL LE

LICINI

CAP

LE CAL

NA

DEL

SAN

CORTE

RUBBI

ERIA SEL CAS

LE

ERIA

E’

Sa

DE LE ERBE

LIO

DEL

CALLE

MOIS

SA

A

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

A

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

NA

G. GALLIN

CALLE

C. LARGA

CORTE

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

I

PISCI

LARGA

LI

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

BALO TE

LE CAL

VERO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

FREZZ

IOL

XXII MARZO

CASTEL

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

BRI FAB

LA

MINELL

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

GIAZZO

DA

DEI

DE

CALLE

I

CALL GABRI E

E

CAMPO

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

C.DE

ERI

CO

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

C.

FRUTAR

DEL

OL

IZA

r

LE CAL

do

C.

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

AC

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

BOT

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

DA

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

SALVAD OR

MAR ZARI A DEL

ONA

RTA

Teatro la Fenice

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

SAN

LE

VER

CALLE

CAOTO

DE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

lva

I

CALLE

X

Sa

CALLE

SSIN

DEI

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

N

WID

LE

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

ZEN MAGA

DEL

C. DE LE COLONNE

NDE LOCA

OLA ASSA

PIO

MARZA RIA

n

A LUC SAN

CALLE

GA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador

DEL

TERÀ

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

LAR

VAR ISCO

S.Canciano

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

Sa

RO TEAT LE CAL

San Fantin

R

LE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

FONTEG

Rio

TEATRO BON CAR

AI

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

MARCO

ETIE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

SAL

BO BEM

CORTE DEL

DEL

RNIN PATE

MAND

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

LE CAL

RO

RAMO

RIOL

O

Rialto

LA

ze

FRUTA

O

QUE

A

DE

ET

CIN

C.

DOL

DI

A

OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

SAN

I

R

CAL

BARBA

COCCO

CAN

NER COR

E

TOS

E CALL

E CALL

LL

TERÀ

CALLE

DE

C. DEL

N

ra

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

ra

ze

en

m

Sco

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

E VENIE

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

LE CAL

CALLE DEL BASTION

DEL FORNO

CALL

SARTORI

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SALI ZZA DA

RIO

CA

LE

RT

SI

ON

STU

E

RIO

CALLE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE DEL NAVARO

E

ZEN

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORE

ANG

DEL

Sc

ULI

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Palazzo Nervi CAMPO MANINScattolin

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Canal Grande

SALIZADA

ENTA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

DEI

LE

TI OCA

CAF

CHIES

UZZI

E CALL

MAN

DEL

DELLA

CAPP

DAM

CALL

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DEI

TEA TR O

CALL

LE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CALLE

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

RINA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

À

AVV

CAL

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

PRI

CAL LE

TER

LE

NANI

GO

VA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Maurizio

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

ENT A

San Silvestro

Palazzo Grimani

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

DAM

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Beneto San Luca

Santo Stefano

CAMPO PISANI

CATE

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

RIO

NT'A

CAL

NO RAVA

DEL

DEL

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

C.SA

NO

LE

ETA

RUGH

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

TA

FON

Santa Sofia

DA

PAR

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

SAN

BOT EGH E

VE

ETTI MOR

MUT I

E CALL

LE

RA

ZI

DE

NO

CAL

GALIZ

le

TE

REA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

DEI

na

EN

LE CAL

CA’

de ran

SI

Palazzo Loredan

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ST

CAL

PO

AM

ENTA

. S.AND

FON

CAL

NE

ND

CALLE

SAN

FOND

HE BRIC FAB

DE

BOT A

CAL

CRO SER A

S. Samuele

DAM

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

Sant’Aponal

C.

. NARI

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STU A

A

ZIO

LA

ANI GRIM

FOND

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

CALLE

IN

ZEL

RE

DEL

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso

OL

N

DON

DI

MI

E CALL

OZZE CARR

AP

LE

LA

FORNO

ari

RA

DEL

Ca

TI,

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

TE

MIN CA L DE LLE SA PE E LL

ON

TR

L

DE

VA

ND

ERA

DEI LAVRANE

DE

AMP ANE

E DOL

SACCA

FO

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

FISOLA

LARGA

CAR

CALL

LE

CHI TODES

E DE CALL

C. DEI

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LE

DE L

DI SAN MARCO

E UEL SAM

LE SAMUE

DA IZA SAL

S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

TR

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

CA’

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

ZATTER

CHIESA

TA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

IER

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

DE

al G

FAL

LINI

EN

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

S. Toma' SX

ENTA

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

Sant'Angelo

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo CAL LE

IA

C.

Can

RAMO

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

S.Silvestro

LE

DAM

TER

RIN PEST

LON

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

MENTA

DELLA

L’AG NEL LA

LE CAL

San Tomà

FONDA

CALLE

DE

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

C.

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

A

O

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAL

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

ZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

SERA

TE

TIOZ

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE BERNARDO

BON

PON

DEI

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAMPO DEI FRARI

Ca' Rezzonico

I

AM

IC

San Felice

LE

A S. PISCIN

SANT

ND

ER

CAMPO APONAL

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

INI

A

LET

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

NT AR

RUG

SCA

E CRO

OGNI

' VE

CAL

DE INC INI

DEL

TOMÀ

San Barnaba

FON

E AL

CO

DE

DO

C.

IS

DE

E DEL CALL

O

TA

CA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

O

L’ASE

EN

Santa Fosca

CA’BCAL ONVLE

CALL

. DE

TER

OR

Accademia

FOND

ZAT

NT

BOL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISAN

NTA

TE

HETT

E DE

AM

FO

LA

SER

ND

NA

M

DE

CRO

TA

S.Stae

TRAG

AME

L

E DEL

FOD

TA

rto

EN

C.

LE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

TI

S. Basilio

DE

CALL

ENTA

EN

a de

ll'O

AM

MADONA

CAL

D

E TRON

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

nde Canal Gra

FONDAM

AM

nn

GO RTE OPO SOT

OCHE

TTO

CALL

FOMO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

ND

Ma

do

CAL LE

DE LA

I

ALE

RAMO

PRET

FO

DD

SAN POLO

DORSODURO

IO

FO

lla

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALL

E ZANE

GHE

BESAG

o de

DON SAN PER

TTO

E DEI

MA

La Maddalena

ER

ORE

N

LA

SAN

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TRA

DA SAN

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DORSODURO

E

C.

DEI PUTI

IAN

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

TALO

N

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CALLE

PAN

À D E

NA

CAMPO SAN STIN

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

TER

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

CALLE

AST

CALLE SAN BASILIO

LE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SEB

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

C.

MEZ

DEL

E

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

SAN

I

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

SAN

CAL

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

A ENT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

LE

CALL

DE

LE

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

DAM

DON

N

E C A

SA

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

E

TERÀ

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

CAL

del

FON

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

LAR

LA TT

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

NI

LE

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

min

I

Rio

LE

TOR

IAT

E

TIN

BR

C. DE

DIA

CAL

DE

San Rocco

Mu

RIO TERA’

AR

TA

CAL

DEL

GU

EN

DE LA VIDA

OCH

RIO

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

Angelo Raffaele

O

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

CIM

N

le

SSA

AM

RAMO

A

E RENIE

DEL

a

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO LE

RO

ND

LAC

R

I

NTA

RIELO

LORENZ

CALLE CASE NUOVE

LA

IA ESI

de

A SAN

CALL

icordi

R

L’ISOLA

CALLE CAZZA

RUGA BELA

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

USE

ME

FO

C. SAN

CALLE

OLO

SAN

DE

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT C.VE

FON

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

i

RE

NIC LE

DE

LA

San Pantalon

CALLE

CA

DE L’OGIO

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

DEI FONTEGH

CALLE

TA DE

TA

TERA’

CAL

I

DA

CALLE

AMEN

AMEN

MATTA DI CA’

LE

DE

CIM

NUOVO

RAG

FOND

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

TI

TA

tini

CALLE CONTARINA

Miser

VA

NE

I

ERI

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

I

EO IZAD

della

FO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

O

O

NO

SIM

CERER

BAR

N

DEI

FON

MENTA

OT

EN

E DEL PISTO

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

SA

E

BASEG

RIO

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

I

CALLE DE LA LACA

C.

DAR O

CALL

CALLE

MENTA

IO

ZO

RAM

ete

SAL

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

Rio

San Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

RZ

AM

O

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

BIAS

DI

BAR

TA

GA

A OV

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE CAL

LE

FONDA

CA

E

ND

L

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Contents

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VENICE CITY GUIDE

In a city that has inspired artists, there’s a renovated 17th century building hosting some of the most important exhibitions of contemporary Italian art. Welcome to Punta della Dogana.

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WELCOME TO ITALY

www.whereitalia.com/venice

ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher ® will host a series of special events. The full program Where of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

PROEDI MEDIA  WHERE

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@whereitalia.com www.whereitalia.com/venice PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

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City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION

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PH © FRANCESCO GALLI - COURTESY LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA

Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com)

“May you live in interesting times” The 58th International Art Exhibition is the major attraction in Venice for six months, occupying the city with monumental installations, inaugurations, exhibitions and a cornucopia of fringe events. The theme of this year’s edition, officially housed at the Giardini and Arsenale locations, is ‘May You Live In Interesting Times’. From 11 May to 24 November. www.labiennale.org

2 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

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Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL  ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning


Venice’s lifestyle department store

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Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi steps from the Rialto Bridge, Venezia

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town 2

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a


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SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10 LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12

pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 14 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5


WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

JUNE

HOT DATES HOT DATES JULY

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA AND GIULIA MINERO

6 W H E R E VMEI N L AI CNE I I JJUUNLY E 2019


MORE ON WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/WHAT-TO-DO-VENICE

ENTERTAINMENT

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ENJOY THE FIREWORKS!

Every year, on the third Sunday of July, Venice JULY JULY commemorates the city’s deliverance from the plague in the 16th century with a celebration known as the ‘Festa del Redentore’ or ‘Feast of the Redeemer’. This religious holiday and spectacular event is much loved by the people of Venice. The highlight of the event – held on Saturday night at 11.30pm – is a fireworks display that attracts thousands of spectators. The Feast of the Redeemer kicks off with the opening of the pontoon bridge connecting the Zattere to the Church of the Redeemer on the Island of Giudecca, and the presentation of the Venetian regatta boat crews. The Regattas of the Redeemer are held on Sunday in the Giudecca Canal and the event ends at 7pm with a Votive Mass at the Church of the Redeemer on the Island of Giudecca.

JULY

Feast of the Redeemer 2019. Giudecca Canal

A breathaking view of the Feast of the Redeemer from the Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice (Ristorante Terrazza Danieli). PHOTO © MIRCO TOFFOLO

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES PHOTOGRAPHY

9 24 MAY

NOVEMBER

GLASS DESIGN

A FEMALE PERSPECTIVE

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► Brigitte Niedermair is a unique presence on the fashion photography scene. A photographer of women for over twenty years, she manages to combine the visual requirements of contemporary fashion with a language that is enhanced with references to the history of art. The exhibition at Palazzo Mocenigo showcases more than 30 images and still lifes dedicated to fashion; the result of more than twenty years of work in the field of photography.

MARCH

MARINOT: TRIBUTE TO A MAESTRO ▲ This exhibition is the first international tribute to renowned French artist-glassmaker Maurice Marinot. Marinot was one of the first 20th century glassworkers to revolutionize the techniques of glassmaking, contributing significantly to the development of glass as a medium for modern art. A tireless innovator, Marinot invented working formulae that were copied for years to come, from his early enamels to the hand-blown pieces that he created and modeled himself with exceptional skill and creativity.

Brigitte Niedermair. Me and Fashion 1996-2018 Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo. Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto, del Costume e del Profumo Santa Croce, 1992. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it

Maurice Marinot. Glass, 1911-1934 Le stanze del vetro, Fondazione Cini Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, Venezia www.lestanzedelvetro.org, www.cini.it

LEONARDO

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LAST DAYS

THE UNIVERSAL MALE MODEL

The graphic collection of Venice’s Gallerie dell’Accademia includes a remarkable number of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci. For the JULY APRIL celebrations of the fifth centenary of the artist’s death, 25 autograph sheets will be showcased at an exhibition suspended between art and science. Among these, the most notable of all is a study on human proportions known as ‘The Vitruvian Man’,’, a universal symbol of classic perfection displayed alongside other drawings created during Leonardo’s stay in Venice. Leonardo da Vinci. Man is a model of the world Gallerie dell’Accademia. Campo della Carità, 1050. www.mostraleonardo.it

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JULY


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ART

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“The first thing I bought for my collection was a Jean Arp bronze. [Arp] took me to the foundry where it had been cast and I fell so in love with it that I asked to hold it in my hands. The instant I felt it I wanted to own it.” Head and Shell, the work to which Peggy Guggenheim was referring, is part of the rich body of works displayed in a retrospective dedicated to Arp. In addition to being one of the most influential French-German artists of the 20th century, Arp was the founder of Dadaism, a pioneer of abstraction, and a reference point for generations of artists.

APRIL

PHOTOGRAPHY

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THE MAFIA THROUGH A LENS

▲ This large retrospective dedicated to Letizia Battaglia,, one of Italy’s most remarkable female photographers, traces her career with 300 images,, some famous, others less well known. Her photographs offer an unflinching pictorial tapestry of the bloody years of Sicily’s Mafia wars, through black and white images loaded with contrasts. Divided by themes, the exhibition explores the life of the Island’s poor, revolts in the street, politics, life, death and love.

MARCH

AUGUST

GOLDEN REFLECTIONS ON THE LAGOON

SEPTEMBER

The Nature of Arp Collezione Peggy Guggenheim - Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Dorsoduro, 701. www. guggenheim-venice.it

Letizia Battaglia. Photography as a life choice. Casa dei Tre Oci Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43. Giudecca, Venezia. www.treoci.org

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice.

NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice Concert Season Opening (beginning of November) Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November) Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day with a temporary bridge crossing over the Grand Canal set up. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (16-17 December) > The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists.

MAY 2020 Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (23-24 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony

The Venice Glass Week (7-15 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano.

New Year’s Eve Concert (29, 30, 31 December and 1 January 2019) >17th edition of the traditional New Year’s Concert.

Vogalonga (31 May) > 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.

OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (17-26 October)

JANUARY 2020 Regata delle Befane (6 January 2020) >

JUNE 2020 Feast of San Piero de Casteo (24-28 June)

JULY Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (20-21 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER Biennale Cinema 2019 International Film Festival (28 August-7 September) > 76th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia. SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (1 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions.

Venice Marathon (27 October)

FEBRUARY 2020 Carnival of Venice (8-25 February-2020) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. More than two weeks of dozens of different locations.

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WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

VENICE à la carte

What if you only have one day, 36 or 48 hours to visit Venice? Even if one week is probably not enough to say that you’ve seen everything worth seeing in the city of the doges, we’ve prepared three different itineraries featuring numerous highlights to help you make the most of your stay. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

I

t’s not unusual for people to find themselves passing through the Lagoon city, either on an onward journey to other destinations, for a business trip or a last minute weekend. At first glance, Venice does not give the impression of being a city that’s easy to navigate. There’s no public transport, or rather there is public transport but only via water, and even first-time visitors to Venice who love walking might find themselves a little disoriented amidst ‘calli’, ‘fondamenta’ and ‘campielli’ (the Venetian words for streets, walkways and squares). But don’t worry, even if you’re on a tighter schedule, you can use the suggestions provided by Where® to make the most of your stay and get an idea of the city. Based on the time that you’re able to dedicate to your visit, we’ve compiled three personalized itineraries featuring the main museums, monuments and culinary specialties that should not be missed during your visit to this watery wonderland.

ONE DAY IN VENICE Let’s be honest, twelve hours are really not enough to visit Venice. However, based on the assumption that you’ve only got one day, thanks to our suggestions, you should be able to cram in the most familiar highlights. Given that you’re on a tight schedule, the ideal solution is to start your tour, bright and early, from your hotel. St. Mark's square, the heart of the city, featuring a series of architectural treasures that are unique throughout the world, is an absolute must for any first-time visitor to Venice, and the starting point of our one-day Venice itinerary. Visiting all the square’s masterworks requires more than one day but, in this case, you can admire them from outside. St. Mark is the patron saint of the city, and St. Mark’s Basilica, featuring a marble façade dating back to the 13th century, adorned with mosaics, Gothic-style statues, bas-reliefs and lavish spoils which give it its polychrome appearance, is dedicated to him (www.basilicasanmarco.it). Lying next to the basilica, you’ll find Palazzo Ducale, a masterpiece of Venetian Gothic architecture and the former residence of the Doges and the seat of the city’s government 10 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

Bridge of Sighs


PHOTO © SERENAROSSI

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WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS Piazza San Marco

WHAT ‘S A BACARO? A bacaro is a not to be missed tasting experience: a type of Venetian osteria (usually a small bar area) were a wide selection of “ombre” and “cicchetti” are served. “Cicchetti” are small snacks, bites or plates of typical Venetian food, while “ombre” are the glasses of wine that Venetian drinks to wash down the “cicchetti”.

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12 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

(www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it). And then there’s St. Mark’s bell tower or campanile, one of the most important symbols of the Serenissima. Measuring 100 meters in height, it soars over the square in all its majesty. Its spire is decorated with a revolving golden angel that moves in the wind. From here you can head towards the only open side of the square, which faces towards the lagoon, to admire the view spread out before you including the basin of San Marco, rows of gondolas and, in the background, the islands of San Giorgio and the Giudecca. Moving on, we come to the Bridge of Sighs. The bridge crosses Rio di Palazzo and is located behind St. Mark’s Square. A masterpiece of Baroque architecture, it connects Palazzo Ducale to the New Prisons. Its name derives from the ‘sighs’ emitted by inmates crossing over the bridge from the prisons on their way to the rooms at the Doge’s Palace where they would be sentenced. On your way back to St. Mark’s Square, by taking one of the narrow streets that emerge under the Procuratie Vecchie, next to the Clock Tower, you’ll come across another of Venice’s most iconic bridges. From here, although you’ll find a succession of ‘calli’ and bridges, it’s almost impossible to get lost because you’ll see numerous signs indicating the route to Rialto. The Rialto Bridge which crosses the Grand Canal, linking the San Marco and San Polo districts, is located in the city’s oldest neighbourhood. This area, which was formerly Venice’s main hub of commerce, is still

crowded with mooring posts and picturesque stalls lining the canal. Walk over the bridge and you’ll come to the city’s famous Rialto Market, one of the most evocative in Venice, and a compulsory stopover for those wishing to immerse themselves in an authentic, oldworld Venetian atmosphere, if only for a few minutes. Although at lunch you won’t have time to dine at a restaurant, you’re in luck because the alleys behind the Rialto Market are packed with eateries and ‘bacari’. At All’Arco in Calle dell’Occhialer, you can sample ‘cicchetti’ with baccalà mantecato (whipped salt cod), sarde in saor and shrimps, but also other tapas-like snacks topped with fried eggplant or radicchio, charcuterie, vegetables and cheese. Although there are a few tiny outdoor tables, it’s so crowded that most people prefer to eat standing up. After recharging your batteries, head to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, in the Sestriere di San Polo, where you can admire more than 60 paintings by Tintoretto. In 1564, Tintoretto won a contract to paint the scuola, and his cycle of large-scale paintings, executed between 1564 and 1588, are so spectacular that the Confraternity of St. Roch is referred to as ‘Tintoretto’s Sistine Chapel’. Other highlights include Christ Carrying the Cross, attributed either to Titian or Giorgione, Titian’s Annunciation, Tiepolo’s Abraham and the Angels and Hagar and Ishmael, as well as numerous other masterpieces (www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org). Sadly, after ending your tour of the Scuola, your time in Venice will


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FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

Basilica dei Frari

IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your aa tourist in Venice is a privilege and an art. The glorious history tourist in Venice is a privilege and an art. The glorious history ofof the stunning examples examplesof ofarchitecture architecturethroughout throughout the Serenissima Serenissima left left stunning the city, handing down a rich cultural heritage. This heritage the city, rich cultural heritage. This heritage encompasses of small small yet yet fundamental fundamentaldecrees. decrees.Venice Venice encompasses a number of isis an and deserves deservesto tobe betreated treatedwith withrespect respect an ‘elegant ‘elegant grand dame’ and by of good good behaviour. behaviour.Where® Where®Venice Venicehas has by obeying obeying the protocols of drawn handbook of of‘do’s ‘do’s and and‘don’ts’ ‘don’ts’to toensure ensurethat that drawn up up a small handbook visitors fully enjoy enjoy the thecity citywhile whilehonouring honouringitsits visitors have have a chance to fully people, monuments monuments and local people, local traditions. traditions. PH © ROLF_52 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Daniele Misrachi Misrachi If Daniele you have two days to spend in Venice, you can dedicate a little more time to St. Mark’s EDITORIAL COORDINATION EDITORIAL COORDINATION AlessandraFinzi Finzi(redazione@where-venice.com) (redazione@where-venice.com) Alessandra Square, by visiting the interiors of St. Mark’s MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey basilica, with its golden mosaics and marble ElenaBinda, Binda,Romena Romena Brugnerotto, Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena flooring. Another must-visit whileP.K. inStefania the area www.rominvenice.com), Daviddi, Simona P.K. Daviddi, ElenaSimona Peverata, Vida Peverata, Stefania Vida areElena the interiors of Palazzo Ducale where, MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION among other things, youElisabetta can visitGiudici, the rooms Joy Lacanlale Joy Lacanlale ofWEB theEDITORIAL Ducal Apartment, the Institutional STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio (art Minero (editor) Rooms, the Armoury and theGiulia prisons. During FabioLancini Lancini (art direction), direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com your 36 hours in Venice, make sure to include Archivio Where® Dreamstime, a ICONOGRAPHY tour of the Gallerie which ICONOGRAPHY Archiviodell’Accademia Where® Italia, Italia, Shutterstock Shutterstock hosts a fabulous collection of masterpieces CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: File © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original works Map by Urban - Bellini, www.urbanfile.org including Tiepolo, Canaletto Original Map byby Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by- Dmitry Goloub Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry and Titian. Until 14 July, the GallerieGoloub is hosting MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, anMARKETING exhibition “Leonardo da Vinci. Man as & titled ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni a World Model” which in addition to tracing Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") thePRODUCTION fundamental stages of the master’s & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORTlife, PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, Grilli SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR showcases thePaola famous drawing of the Vitruvian Grilli COORDINATOR ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto Man (www.gallerieaccademia.it). Another ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto LOCAL MARKETING Traine (T: 340 3026288) worthwhile optionStefano is a tour of the Basilica LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) deiHOTEL Frari.RELATION LocatedMANAGER in Campo dei Frari, in Maria Granata the (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Granata Sestriere of San Polo, the Maria interiors of this (maria.granata@where-venice.com) church – theSERVICES largestCristina in Venice – are adorned CUSTOMER Garbini, Silvia Maggi CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina with magnificent works of art. REG. numerous TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Senatore WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 Among several ofJARACH the most notable DIRETTOREthese, RESPONSABILE: ANDREA REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO ROC No. 20182 DELthe 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 include Titian’s twoALSPA altarpieces, Assumption LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH ofPRINTED the Virgin on the high altar and the Madonna Although publisher has made BYthe GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every effort to include copyright credits, in the eventPONTE of thereFORMELLO, being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would LOCALITÀ 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG like to apologize to the copyright holders inMadonna question whose with names will be published of Ca’ di Pesaro, Bellini’s Child in the next issue. Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event ofin there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to triptych the sacristy, and the wooden apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published inIN theITALY next Where® alsoBaptist, published Milan by by statue ofissue. St. Johnisthe theinonly work Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl Donatello in Venice. Editor’s tip: the srl best time and in Naples by IES Comunicazione IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Italia, in Rome Mediawhen srl its toWhere® visit the church is in by theTourist afternoon EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione stained glassÈ DISTRIBUITO windows by theDI WHERE® VENICE SOLOare NELLEilluminated CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

w w w.wheretraveler.com 3

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PH © DIDIER DESCOUENS

beWHERE over. ITALIA IfITALIA youSRL have to head to the Santa Lucia WHERE SRL Via Biondi, 20154 ViaEzio Ezio Biondi, 20154 Milano. Milano. railway station or1.1.Piazzale Roma via the line 1 T:T:02 02349951 349951--Fax Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 vaporetto, which traverses almost the entire info@where-venice.com info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com length of the Grand Canal, you can savour PUBLISHER PUBLISHERAND ANDEDITORINCHIEF EDITORINCHIEF a Andrea final, unforgettable Venetian vista from a AndreaJarach Jarach (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) privileged viewpoint, while admiring the magnificent buildings lining the canal. EDITORIAL EDITORIAL

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WHERE NOW | INSIDER TIPS

A propos the Art Biennale Until November, Venice will host the 58th International Art Exhibition, Italy’s most eagerly awaited contemporary art event, which occupies Venice with monumental works, installations, inaugurations, exhibitions and fringe events. The exhibition will extend from the Central Pavilion (Giardini) to the Arsenale, and will include 79 artists from all over the world. If you’ve scheduled a three-day trip, you’ll have time to visit some of the pavilions and participate in a few events. Don’t miss the explosive Chromo Sapiens at the Icelandic Pavilion. A warehouse on the Island of Giudecca has been transformed into a cavernous, multi-sensory chamber where colours, sounds and irresistible textures take visitors on an immersive journey into a psychedelic world. Among other things, this is also a good opportunity to visit the peaceful island of Giudecca, where you can immerse yourself in a less touristy, authentic Venetian atmosphere (www.icelandicartcenter.is; www.labiennale.org).

14 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

48 HOURS IN VENICE You’ve got three days and two nights to tour Venice. You’ve visited St. Mark’s Square, taken the ritualistic photo on the Rialto Bridge, admired Tiepolo’s and Tintoretto’s paintings, and downed that most Venetian of aperitifs – the Aperol spritz. However, there are still lots of things to do, see and…eat. Punta della Dogana, a totally revamped 18th-century building, refers to the triangular area of Venice where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca Canal, overlooking the Basin of San Marco. In addition to housing one of the most important collections of contemporary art in Italy, it is

used for prestigious temporary exhibitions. (www.palazzograssi.it). On the subject of modern and contemporary art, another small Venetian gem is the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, the largest Italian collection of early 20th century European and American art, featuring works by Pollock, Kandinsky, Picasso and Duchamp (www.guggenheim-venice. it). Since you have three days at your disposal, you can also choose to dedicate one of them to discovering Venice's major islands: Burano, renowned for its coloured houses and lacemaking, Murano, famous throughout the world for its glass products and ‘fornaci’ (kilns) where you can watch master glassmakers at work and purchase artistic glass, and Torcello, where you can lose yourself amidst its small deserted streets. The islands are easily accessible via ‘vaporetti’ (for info visit

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

© COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM, VENEZIA. PH. DAVID HEALD

Libreria dell'Acqua Alta

Although this restaurant also features a seafood-centric menu, carnivores can opt for its equally tantalizing selection of meat-based dishes (ristorantealcovo.com).

PH © AGATHA KADAR / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

rays of the sun (www.basilicadeifrari.it). If you’re not in the mood for churches and museums, head to the Jewish Ghetto in the Cannaregio district. The Venetian ghetto is the oldest in Europe, and still remains the centre of the city’s Jewish community. The interesting Jewish Museum of Venice, which can be accessed from campo del Ghetto Novo, is a widespread museum that includes exhibition spaces and synagogues (www.museoebraico.it). If you’re staying in Venice for two days, you’ll have time to delve a little deeper into the Lagoon’s fabulous cuisine. The best places to do this are Le antiche carampane, a typical trattoria serving mainly fish-based dishes, sourced from the nearby Rialto Market (www.antichecarampane.com). Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, but surprisingly off the tourist track, you’ll find Al Covo.


Burano

PH © REBIUS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

www.actv.avmspa.it) or with an organized tour (www.isoladiburano.it; www.alilaguna.it). If you want to dedicate a little time to shopping, remember that Venice’s ‘calli’ are packed with treasures just waiting to be discovered. Among these, one of the most notable is the picturesque Libreria dell'Acqua Alta. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high water’ due to the store being plagued by the canal’s rising waters, which regularly flood the floors of the shop each winter. To combat the problem, its owner has piled all of the books into waterproof bins, bathtubs, canoes and even gondolas in order to protect the literature (www.facebook.com/libreriaacquaalta). Other highlights include Marisa Convento’s atelier in the sestiere of San Marco, featuring handmade necklaces, jewel-like accessories and ‘friulane’ (typical Venetian velvet slippers), all decorated with Venice’s traditional handstrung glass beads (www.marisaconvento.it). If you’ve come all this way and don’t indulge in a gondola ride, a unique way of discovering the city of water and its hidden corners, you might be kicking yourself long after you’ve returned home (ask your concierge).

PAL A ZZO REGINA VIT TORIA , SAN MARCO ( VENEZIA ) WOMAN R amo Dei Fuseri 1810 tel. +39 041 2410990

MAN R amo Dei Fuseri 1811/M tel +39 041 5221332

HOME Frezzeria 1820 tel. +39 041 5201996

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WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE

gondola

All about the

16 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019


8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century.

Private gondolas no longer exist and the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim.

Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized

oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier

– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

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PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from


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A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, a panoramic view from the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi terrace.

PH © ZORAN KARAPANCEV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE

► RICHARD GINORI The new Richard Ginori collection "Il Viaggio di Nettuno" created in collaboration with multifaceted London-based artist Luke Edward Hall, is inspired by the designer's love for Greek-Roman mythology. Plates, cups and other objects highlight a new trend in tableware. www.richardginori1735.com

This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

MISSONI

This wide-brimmed viscose hat featuring a striped pattern is part of Missoni’s beachwear collection. A perfect addition to every woman’s holiday look. www.missoni.com

®

► BURBERRY ‘Liquid Lip Velvet’ magenta is a richly pigmented matte lipstick boasting a creamy texture. An innovative Made in Italy formula that leaves lips soft and moisturized, it is available in a wide palette of shades. it.burberry.com

► HERMÈS This soft, yachting beach towel in 100% cotton terry cloth is available in a range of colours including bouton d’or (see photo), acier, bleu smalt, nocturne and orange feu. www.hermes.com

GUCCI

POMELLATO

▲ FURLA The ‘Furla Rea’ sunglasses are a precious accessory characterized by a butterflyshaped frame. Extremely feminine and immediately recognizable, they come in metal embellished by a coloured detail on the upper part of the lenses. www.furla.com 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

The myriad nuances of the Mediterranean’s light blue hues sparkle in the new ‘Nudo Deep Blue’ collection. These coloured gems combined with mineral stones are available in three variations: Sky Blue topaz with agate, Blue London topaz with lapis lazuli and Blue London topaz with turquoise. www.pomellato.com

The chain strap tote bag is introduced for Pre-Fall 2019 in a raffia effect fabric, embellished with the Double G hardware in shiny gold-toned metal. Fabrics and silhouettes with an inherently summer inspired feel define the new shapes – a vivacious mix of lightweight fabrics, bold trims and effortless shapes. www.gucci.com


WHERE NOW | SIGHTSEEING

PH © 4KCLIPS / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Lido di Venezia

Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200m in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle. WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are

the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club (18 holes) set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered that there was nowhere else where he could play golf. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.

SPECIAL EVENTS - For many years the Lido has been the playground of celebrities and crowned heads. It all begans in the second half of the 19th century when the international jet-set discovered its long sandy beaches. It is therefore not surprising that in August 1932 the terrace of the Hotel Excelsior hosted the first film festival. Then, a special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, was assigned to the most glamorous event of the year. At the end of summer, the festival turns the sleepy Lido into a mini Hollywood, attracting rising stars of the screen, eager to be photographed, plus hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers.

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Bassano del Grappa

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa: rebuilt many times but always remaining faithful to Palladio’s 16th century original. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Verona


University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 23


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The luxury heart of Venice

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panning 7,000 square meters, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the very first DFS retail space in Europe, features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, food and wines, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1222, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store, renovated by the renowned architect

Rem Koolhaas, offers a world of fashion, luxury and craftsmanship and hosts a rich program of cultural events and art exhibitions. The ground floor is dedicated to the Venetian and national excellences and the courtyard is home to the café/restaurant AMO by Alajmo, embodying the real soul of Venice. And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking! Don’t miss the art installation by Barnaba Fornasetti and Valeria Manzi, until 24 November, involving the entire building.

PHOTOS © MATTEO DE FINA @ DFS

The lifestyle department store T Fondaco by DFS offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining.

Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, this is ‘the’ go-to address for a one-stop shopping experience.

24 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

>> T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). www.tfondaco.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

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TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

ANTIQUES

Anatema

Antichi Splendori

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open MonSat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Sizing Women clothes IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

EUR 32 34 36 38 40 42 44

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

Women shoes IT 36 37 38 39 40 41

EUR 36 37 38 39 40 41

US 6 6.5 7.5 8.5 9 9.5

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8

Men clothes

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

IT 50 52 54 56 58 60

EUR 46 48 50 52 54 56

Michele De Fina

IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

EUR 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

US 1 2 4 6 8 10 12

US 36 38 40 42 44 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

Men shoes US 7.5 8 8.5 9 10.5 11.5 12

UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

This bright yellow contemporary VERSACE shoulder bag, from the ‘Tribute X’ collection, pays homage to the new generation.

PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5

www.bulgari.com. San Marco, BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com. Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5


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L CA Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA PASSION TIP A unique place! Since several of Venice’s most elegant homes fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide CAMPO DELLA with curtains. CAL LE San Cassiano LAR N PESCARIA GA A N ZI A G. G its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, featuring both contemporary 1875, the company LIhas the art of weaving range of collections, SAN C ALL D Apracticed IN A S A ZA Maria RI tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal CAMPO O on original looms that once belonged toSanta the DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9ambasis. These include dresses, coats, e Paolo Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-FriI M9.30am-4pm IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santijackets, Giovanni AC CA C A LL O LL E LI CAMPO DEL 12.30pm. www.canovatessutitendaggi.com. bags, accessories forCAMPO a total look that exudes ED (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua. FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ ED MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca).DELLA T: 041 and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; EL com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto L E C A S T E Lclass TI LI A BO Teatro E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3Malibran CAMPO CA LL E DE SAN GIACOMETO LE ER BE Map E4 CA it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 Chiesa (Merceria dell’Ospe CORTE SECONDA DE M L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA L San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 NS LO BA RB AR O di Rialto IA DE LE DE TO Le Zoie NI (Rialto stop). Map F4 LE CA Casa di RA MP O CAMPO Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO Pot-Pourrì PASSION TIP This eclectic DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO shop personality. dei Tedeschi Three exclusive boutiques set against the Al Duca d'Aosta showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but O AN V A CA C. D LR LLE Sant’Aponal magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in E L F established in Venice in 1902, Al CDuca Originally D E in collections that are unlikely to DEL also specializes .M A ONT TA E P RT IN IO M GO GH Ponted’Aosta nowEboasts BO EN RU GO the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and SAN F stores inC Asix cities across the D. P be found elsewhere, including objects inspired LLE ALL SA G ON G IA CAMPO di Rialto CORTE E CAMPO N Z LIZ ZO DO TREVISAN for her, artisanal Made- IOVANDNAIMLENTA ZA Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, CAMPO fashion accessories CORTE DEL him and byAPONAL ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA AT LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN PIO ER E D AN CAMPO X Udine. The historical E in-Italy collections and a selection of international O Treviso and four-storey Venice L L known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30amSAN LIO CA Rialto CAMPIELLO brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the PIELLO location features over 100 top fashionS brands San Silvestro 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. San CAMPO SANTA MARIA A L IZ DEI DE FORMOSA ADA brand FONDAMENTA isDEIrenowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted SAN SAN SILVESTRO for men and women, carefully selected to offer C. D LONI Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. EL G L IO PRETI ALIA CA ZZO accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO Fontego elegance. These include Santa Maria Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 LLE L its clientele quality and

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass andLA GRAZIA ISOLA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade,ISOLA printed or recycled SANfabrics CLEMENTE shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, andAcharacters from the GIU D Eelves CC ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, Santissimo Redentore the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santa Croce among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Hundertwasser' Garden Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

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Palazzo Ducale

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

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Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques San Vidal Palazzo Corner DURO and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offersCa' Giustinian della Ca’Granda Ponte Pisani an array ofdell'Accademia 'unique' locationsPalazzo where you ssanti Gritti Gallerie Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo can indulge in an authentic Genovese Collezione Peggy shopping San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Gregorio Santa Maria della Salute and accessories that you'll be hard put to Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese find elsewhere. While strolling through its Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latterSpirito endows this city with Santo its characteristic vibrancy… CAL

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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

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SHOPPING and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickknacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, babychanging rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region,

the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani. com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultrafeminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

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CALLE

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DE L’OGIO

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San Francesco della Vigna

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CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

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Sant'Eufemia

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San Giovanni di Malta

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San Lorenzo

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CALLE

Palazzo Ducale

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C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

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Santa Maria del Pianto

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CORTE NOVA

MEZO

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REDIVO

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CALLE

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O

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NOVE

DE LE TOLE

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DE

Rio San Lorenzo

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FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

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DEL

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CALLE

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CALLE ERIZZO

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DEI

GRIMANI

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Salvador

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CALLE

DEL

CORNER

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CALLE

CALLE

Rio

CALLE

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DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

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ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

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PIA

DEI

CALLE

SAN

CORTE BAROZZI

CALLE

DOLERA

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

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CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

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Basilica di San Marco

MA

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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

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CALLE

DEL CALLE

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SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

DE LE

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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

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CALLE DEL FIGHER

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CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

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San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

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CINQUE

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DE LE ERBE

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DEI

CALLE

CALLE

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CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

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DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

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DEL FORNO

FONDAMENTA

CORTE CORTESE

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CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

VENEZIA

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

DEI

GIAZZO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

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NOVE

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

le

LA

TODESCHI

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CALLE

DE

C. DEI

BIAGIO

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DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

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CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

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DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

E

CASTELLO

C.

nde Canal Gra

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SANTO

RAMO

S.Canciano

RIO

Teatro Malibran

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

LE

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SAN

C.DE

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

BOTERI

SESTIERE

ORESI

DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CALLE

CALLE CAPPUZZI

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

SABION

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

San Fantin

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ALLO

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

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CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

Santo Stefano

FALIER

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

LARGA

SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CALLE

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN

DEL

DEL

VENIER

CALLE

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

NOVA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

PRIULI

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

RUGA

DEL

CARROZZE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

VOLTI

CALLE

SARTORI

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

BOTA

Sant’Aponal

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

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CA’

ZEN

CALLE

San Beneto San Luca

SAN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

FABBRICHE

CALLE

LE

LE

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

LE

TRAGHETTO

DE

CALLE

DE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

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LA

DEL CALLE

nde

NARISI FOND.

CROSERA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

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DE DE

CARAMPANE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SAMUELE

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

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S. SALIZADA

LONGO

E

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

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MORETTI

CALLE CALLE

LE

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

RIELO

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LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

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LE PAZIENZE

DE

A

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

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Palazzo Fortuny

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Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

TRAPOLIN

STUA

PERDON

CA’ CORTE

Accademia

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LA

CALLE

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TERÀ

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Sant'Angelo

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DE OGNISANTI

AL

DEI

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

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San Barnaba

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Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CANAL RIO TERA’

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

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San Felice

S.Stae

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

IS

TA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

DEL

DE

DEL

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

C.

EN

CALLE

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Rio

SAN

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

FORNO

FONDAMENTA BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

D

CA'

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

ZANE

CROSERA

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

N

TA

SAN

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Madonna

MORI

FONDAMEN

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

DEI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

DEL

TABACCHI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

S. Basilio

DELLA

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA LARDONI

C.

CA

NA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

LE

ALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

PRETI

L’ASEO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NIE

DD

DE

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

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MA

TRON

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

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CALLE

LA

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DE L’OGIO

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

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LATTE

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

le

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San Pantalon

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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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LA

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DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

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Misericordia

FO

CALLE

L’ISOLA

DEL

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

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RAMO

San Giacomo dall'Orio

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CALLE ORSETTI

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CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

della

TER

CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

Rio

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

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As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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SHOPPING Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Tips to purchase Murano glass

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer. com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional maskmaking techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana. com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com

Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

The Merchant of Venice

An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the

Venini

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this highend optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola.

TESSITURA LUIGI BEVILACQUA An evocative, surprising place, a form of craftsmanship that exemplifies artisanal skills and culture since 1875, a business that combines managerial expertise and ancient savoir faire: all this is Tessitura Luigi Bevilacqua, an establishment that embodies the concept of Italian excellence. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com

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DINING

The thousand faces of taste 1000 Gourmet’s rich menu comprises traditional recipes, creative variations and summer re-imaginings of the most authentic, thin, soft-crusted Neapolitan-style pizzas. By Giulia Minero

A

fter years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitanstyle cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients, which include unrefined or glutenfree flour. 1000 Gourmet’s pizza – which comes served in slices – is made by expert pizza chefs who skillfully combine ingredients to offer customers a wide selection of creative, tasty variations based on a combination of timeless traditions and innovative experimentation. All other dishes, including antipasti like ‘baked eggplant and zucchini meatballs with salt, pepper and provola cheese’ and ‘Tarallo breaded buffalo mozzarella’, main courses, salads, bitesized fried specialties and desserts are based

32 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

rigorously on quality and respect for the Italian culinary tradition. While sitting comfortably in the dining rooms of the new restaurant, spread over two floors, and boasting a welcoming ambience, or at one of the restaurant’s outdoor tables, guests can enjoy creative recipes that will delight even the most discerning palates. An example? ‘Cresommola’, a must-try pizza topped with Vesuvius apricot preserve, fior di latte, taleggio, sweet onions grown in Montoro, guanciale Irpino, extra virgin olive oil and basil, created by pairing savoury gourmet ingredients with sweet, aromatic flavours. The menu also features several other tantalizing versions created using special doughs made with turmeric, citrus fruits or hazelnuts, a treat for the taste buds and a delight for the eyes!

>> 1000 Gourmet Pizzeria San Marco, 475 (Calle Specchieri) T: +39 041 3127069. Map F4. 1000gourmet.business.site


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Antica Carbonera

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop).Map E5

1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitan-style cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or gluten-free flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

NAPLES | VENICE

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Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Calle Specchieri, 475 - San Marco 30124 - Venezia Tel. +39 041 3127069 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33


DINING

DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Pignolo

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fi sh-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

34 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

€€€. hand www.lacalcina.com. Hotel Calcina.in The of owner Eligioc/o Paties, is La apparent Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. line 2traditional or 5.1 (Zattere stop). MapisE6 The Venetian menu accompanied

by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than La Conca d’Oro 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out Da Fiore some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers top(restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s stop). Map F4 most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of La Porta d’Acqua carefully selected seasonal ingredients have Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on is housed in a 15th century building and decorated Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan stop). Map E3 cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. Gran Canal €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, you 1022/b Terà Silvestro). T: 041of 2412124. Here can(Rio taste theSan typical specialties Vaporettotradition, 1 (San Silvestro stop). E4expression Venetian featuring theMap purest of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus Lineadombra is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o (Salute stop). Map E5 Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Locanda Cipriani Mapwho F5 want to be close to Venice, stop). For those yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani

Harry’s Bar is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a

Founded the 1930s, this legendary bar is simple yetinevocative atmosphere, it is popular renowned for its Bellini gourmets cocktails (originally among knowledgeable as a fantastic invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it Lineadombra

has beenon renovated with great charm, Perched the last bridge of the mostexuding beautiful an understated elegance with beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect country and fresh where flowers. €€€. www. spot for antiques a romantic dinner you can enjoy all locandacipriani.com. Santa Fosca 29 €€€. the typical flavours ofPiazza the Venetian lagoon. (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. from Nove direction Burano, stop) then or T: 041Fondamente 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere the 9stop). line). Map Off Map 1take (Salute E5

Taverna al Do Remer Trattoria Forni

Located near to the Rialtohas Bridge, this romantic The owner Eligio Paties managed to make ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its destination, open-brick this restaurant a sought-after decor, which lends an intimate, informal touch. distinguished by itsit wide assortment of Venetian Although thetomenu featuresofsimple, traditional fare, thanks the quality the dishes and a dishes, it sense often surprises diners with unusual genuine of typically Venetian hospitality. pairings. Closed onwill Wednesdays. www. The dining spaces remind you€€€. of the alremer.it.of Cannaregio, 5701.“Orient T. 041 5228789. carriages the legendary Express” Vaporetto line 1 to (Ca’ d’Oro stop). and pay tribute the history of Venice. €€€.

Map F3 www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line Trattoria Do Forni 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, Wildner distinguished byFullin its wide assortment Opened by the family in 1960, itofisVenetian fare, thanksby to locals the quality of the dishes patronized and tourists alike. and Its a genuine sense ofatmosphere typically Venetian hospitality. tranquil, relaxed is further enhanced Thea dining spacesview will over remind of the carriages by spectacular theyou Basin of St. of the legendary andand payserves tribute Mark’s. Its menu “Orient is mainlyExpress” fish-based to the history of Venice. €€€.including www.doforni.it. San classic Venetian specialties ‘Baccalà Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 on 5232148. Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed Vaporetto €€€. line 1c/o or Pensione 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4 Tuesdays. Wildner. Castello,

4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Wildner or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Dal Mas and serves classic Venetian specialties fish-based Located a few minutes from the‘Sarde railway includingjust ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and in Saor’. station, thisTuesdays. pastry shop a triumph of Closed on €€€.offers c/o Pensione Wildner. traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 to try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan Map G4dei Dogi’ and or croissants, 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3

PASTRY SHOPS

Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Pasticceria Rosa Salva

This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San La Conca d’Oro Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. Venetian institution has been turning out some of www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). specialties andlines traditional T: 041www.kempinski.com/it/venice 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). T:Italian 041 5229293. Vaporetto 1, 2 , 5.1 Venetian dishes. Map F4 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6


Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Dopolavoro

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

PH © KAVALENKAVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

SIGHTSEEING |

Contemporary art in an antique setting

P

unta della Dogana and the Palazzo Grassi are part of François Pinault’s widespread cultural project for contemporary art in Venice. Punta della Dogana refers to the triangular area of Venice where the Grand Canal meets the Giudecca Canal. The building of the Dogana del Mar, completed in 1682, was used as the Serenissima’s customs house until around 1980 when it fell into disuse. French entrepreneur François Pinault transformed it into a museum hub and a centre of contemporary art in 2009. The imposing renovation, which the François Pinault Foundation entrusted to Japanese archistar Tadao Ando, involved a complete makeover of the old interiors which were given a highly contemporary industrial look. In addition to

38 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

housing part of Pinault’s vast collection, Punta della Dogana is used for events, and collective temporary or monographic exhibitions. Blockbuster exhibitions hosted here over the past few years include ‘Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable’, the major solo exhibition dedicated to Damien Hirst in 2017. Corroded by the sea and covered with coral and shells, the monumental works of the visionary British artist, interacted perfectly with the cement walls, the exposed brickwork and the glass and metal elements designed by Tadao Ando. Punta della Dogana is currently hosting a collective exhibition titled ‘Place and Signs’ (see photo at right). >> www.palazzograssi.it

© R. H. QUAYTMAN. COURTESY THE ARTIST AND MIGUEL ABREU GALLERY, NEW YORK. PHOTO CREDIT: ADAM REICH

In a city that has inspired artists and creative talent throughout the ages, there’s a renovated 17th century building hosting some of the most important exhibitions of contemporary Italian art. By Chiara Zaccarelli


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

PH © JOPSSTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

EDITOR'S TIP

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center

of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Museo Correr

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was

constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www. basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

Santa Croce

San Polo Dorsoduro

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

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Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande di San Rocco

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists

| SIGHTSEEING

including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Correr

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro

The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE

CONCERTS 6 July MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG & ANDRÁS SCHIFF Music by Ludwig van Beethoven, Johannes Brahms Myung-Whun Chung, conductor András Schiff, piano OTHER EVENTS 4 July Giorgio Li Calzi-John Balke Duo (Venezia Jazz Festival) John Balke, piano and electronics Giorgio Li Calzi, trumpet, electronics 7 July 50th Anniversary of ECM (Venezia Jazz Festival) Performance by Anquar Brahem (oud), Egberto Gismondi (piano solo) and Enrico Rava (trumpet and Flugrlhorn)

www.teatrolafenice.it

8 July J’ai Deux Amours (Venezia Jazz Festival) Performance by Dee Dee Bridgewater Dee Dee Bridgewater, voice Ira Coleman, bass Louis Winsberg, guitar Marc Berthoumieux, accordion Minino Garay, percussions CHAMBER MUSIC MUSIKÀMERA 2-3 July at Sale Apollinee ALESSANDRO TAVERNA IN RECITAL Music by Fryderyk Chopin, Maurice Ravel, Claude Debussy, Robert Schumann Alessandro Taverna, piano CHAMBER MUSIC 5 July ANDRÁS SCHIFF IN RECITAL Music by Johann Sebastian Bach András Schiff, piano

The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco

Museo di Storia Naturale

The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www.querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria

PALAZZO GRASSI Renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando (also responsible for the restoration of Punta della Dogana), Palazzo Grassi showcases the extraordinary Pinault Collection and features personal and collective exhibitions. www.palazzograssi.it

42 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.

architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi. it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century

collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.

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PH © CATARINA BELOVA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U LY 2019

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45


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Palazzo Fortuny

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LA

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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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CC

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IE RI

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AM

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CALLE CAZZA

RAM

Mis

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

RUGA VECCHIA

RG

SA

BA

HI

N

Soranzo Cappello

INI

TA

TA

LA

A OV

B

EA

FO

E DEL PISTO

DI ET RI O TE RO LA RÀ CH IES

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RI

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VA

AMEN

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FO

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D

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Palazzo Soranzo Capello

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CA

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SE

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People Mover Venezia

TRONCHETTO

4

C

A

AM

BI AS

DI

RI VA

TA

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Giardino di Palazzo

LENT

CROCE

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Giardino Papadopoli

CA

RTE

I TO

ND

CO

DE

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OPOL TA PAPAD

NT

OC

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Sant'Andrea

SA

CR

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FO

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TT

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AG

A

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della

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DEL REMER

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LU

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San Simeon Piccolo

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CALL

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FO

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DE P.le Roma

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nde l Gra Cana

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AG SP

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DI

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Parcheggio Bus Turistici

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People Mover Venezia

A

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

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NO

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LL

A

A

OL

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IS

AM

CAMPO FO ND DEI MORI AM EN TA DEI MO RI

DEL

AL

LE

EN

NA

CAMPO SAFFA

MIS

SE

AM

A E M

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Palazzo Nani FO

TA

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CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

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BB

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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

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Santa Maria delle Penitenti

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Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

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A

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15

AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

TORCELLO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAMENTA

ISOLA CATERINA SANTA

SANTA

DI

DI CATERINA

MAZZORBETTO

FONDAMENTA

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AR

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MA

FONDA

RC

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UER DEI SQ

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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

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ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 13

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

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Japan Pavilion

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United States Pavilion

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San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

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CALLE

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ND

AL

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CAMPO SAN ISEPO

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SE

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Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

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C A L L E C ATA PA N

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TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

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OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

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CALLE

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CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LE

CALLE FRIZIER

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EPPE

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I S ET

AN

CALLE

ENA

CALLE

DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

RAMO DE

CALLE

ND

CALLE

E

LE

AMEN

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CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

DI

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

SAN

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

IA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

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FEM

DE CALLE

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CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

TA

CALLE

S C H I AV

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

DE

Spirito Santo

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

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CORTE DELLE GATE

DEGLI

VERONA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEI FORNI

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Arsenale

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

100 m

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

RI

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

a

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

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CASSELERIA

DEI

LARGA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

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Salvador

C.

MANDOLA

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TERÀ

SA

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

MARCO

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O

MO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

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CALLE

RC

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

BEMBO

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

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CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

Museo Correr

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DE LA SACA

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CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

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O DEL

CINQUE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

AI

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

CALLE

DE

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

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STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

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PONTE

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DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

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RIO

Teatro Malibran

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SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

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LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

CASTELLO

CALLE

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DE LA

FORNO

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DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

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SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

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CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

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PARANGON

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RIO TERA’

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C. DEI

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LE

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STURION

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nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

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CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

X

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MAZZINI CORTE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

VENIER

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CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

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MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

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CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ALLO

CALLE CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

ZEN

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

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NANI

AI GESUATI

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

DEI

DEL

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

CATERINA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEL

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

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FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

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DEL

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BOTA

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DE

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San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

LA

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de r an

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LE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

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Palazzo Loredan CALLE

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DEL

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DE

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al G

SESTIERE

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CALLE

S. Samuele

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FONDAMENTA

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CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

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IA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

C.

Rio Nuovo

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O

DE

Santa Fosca

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DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

C.

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

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SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

ER

NA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

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IS

FONDAMENTA

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CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

MORETTI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

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CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

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CALLE

D

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

N

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

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Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NA

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TINTORETTO

DEI

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FOMO

CA

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

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San Rocco

Muneghete

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INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

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San Pantalon

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Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

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La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

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LATTE

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de

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DE

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

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SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

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SOTOPORTEGO

DE

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CALLE

Rio

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del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

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TER

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TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

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DE

DE LA VIDA

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LA

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CALLE DELL'OLIO

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Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

TINTOR

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CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

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CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

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DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

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DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

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CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

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RIO

LA

MIS

RIO

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Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

LA

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

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Ferrovia

CORTE

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SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

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A

Rio

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NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NS

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

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SE

FO

ER LE P

SE

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

EN

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

LL

NOVA

AM

San Girolamo

CA

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

DEL

ZZ

CALLE

PU

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

CA

PISCINA

LE

FO

LE

O

SAN

DE

AM

L’ARCO

TA

OL

CALLE

EN

DE

AM

N G IR

SAN

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

TA

LLO

RUGA

FO

EN

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

TA

CALLE

FORNER

EN

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

AM

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

B

LA

Parco

LI

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LA

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NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

7

15 TORCELLO

H

6

O

S. Servolo

I

L


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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4

Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4

Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice VENIC Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – E CITY GUIDE Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) Venice a la carte Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)

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