Where Magazine Venice Mar 2018 by Morris Media Network

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

MARCH 2018 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

www.where-venice.com

YOUR

C IT GUID Y E

ENJOY VENICE BY NIGHT SPRING EVENINGS IN THE LAGOON

ON SHOW

THE "RETURN" OF MARINI TO THE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE

Â®

Venice March 2018 12

the guide

FOCUS

24 SHOPPING

Marina Rinaldi’s new store blends the brand's iconic style with the inimitable beauty of Venetian architecture

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

40 DINING

HOT DATES

22 Parco San Giuliano

DINING

A go-to destination for VIP watching, Harry's Bar offers visitors a unique opportunity to savour a fascinating, slightly retro atmosphere

GIFT GUIDE

50 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

Salviati

ISOLA D

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection pays tribute to the Tuscan sculptor Marino Marini

Arrigo Cipriani

56 ENTERTAINMENT

Contents

HIA

ROS

CALLE

ERI

stol

CALLE

ti Apo San

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

LE STEL LA

CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

TEST A E DE

CALL

DOSE E DEL CALL

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

TAR

ADI

DEL

FRU

PAR

DEL

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

DEL CAL LE

FOR DEL LE CAL

BALBI

APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

SAN A CHI VEC

SALIZADA

EI BAS

ILE

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

CALLE

Palazzo Ducale

A N M

VONI SCHIA RIVA

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

Salute FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

CATECUMENI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

O SANTO

FONDAME

TE ZAT TA

San

BRAG

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo AM

BIA

Sant'Eufemia FO

'EU

FEM

ITE

FONDA

E COSM

ANDO A FERR

CALL

MENTA

PONTE

PICCOL

GIUDECCA FONDA

M E N TA

SAN GI ACOM

Redentore O

N CA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca EN

'OLIO

VERT

E DELL

E CON

ONDA

CALL

NGO

RETT

ANE

LAVR

OBIL

DE LE ERBE

PON

CALL

DE LA SACA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

Dol

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

C. NI

VAN GIO

L’ARC

SAN LE

CAL

E DE CALL RUG

LLE

CAL

CAT

SAN

ARINI

LUN

FOSC

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

ICO

Can ale

. MIS

HET A

RAC

ICE

LLE

FEL

SAN

NTA

ULI PRI

LLE

FOO RN O

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

DE CAL LE

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION CORTE

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

RIO TERRÀ

TERRÀ

ADIN

SAN TA

CAM PO

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

CAR FOS RÀ TER RIO

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

LE CAL

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

TRA GHE TO

DEL

A ROS LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

ORB I DEI

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DURO RE DORSO

DEL

GR LE

INA TI

LIZ

DO ON SEC

DEL CAL LE

LI LIPO E STRE

RIO

GNESE

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

Moise

MENTA

CANONI DE LA

FONDA

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

NANI

ZZA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

MARCO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Museo Correr

VALLAR

CALLE

AMEN

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

SAN

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE

FOND

FON

COLOM

IO MEG E DEL CALL

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

CAL

LIZ SA

GA LAR LE CAL

TER RIO

O ROCC

ALBA E DEI CALL

CALL

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

San Gio

DEL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

SAN

SIONE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

EDIO REM LE CAL

LARGA

ASCEN

LARGA

EREMIT

FRUTARIOLI

CORTE

E BIAN CALL

PIA

CALLE

MENTA

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

FONDA

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

OTTI

DE LE

DEL FORNO

ETT

DEI CORTELL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Palazz

EOL

DEL TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CA TAS

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

VAPOR

ZUL IAN

C.DEI

CARRO

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

DEL

San Giuliano

CORTE TORRETTA

ALL CAV

ORS

SARTOR

CALLE

ETTI,

TI, ET RS

RÀ

RIO

BINA

CALLE

FONTE

SALITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

A’

E DI CALL

RG LA LLE CA

CALLE

QUERIN

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU A

NESI

A CI LU NT A SA TA

TIM

RIT

PO NE ZIO RE DI

O SAT MUS

Rio Del

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

SAN

GIO ROLO DELL’O

DEL

A ENT

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

DEI

LE CAL

I HIER SPEC

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

LIO

IA DAR SPA

TER

DAM

DEL

LUCATE LLO

RIO

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

CAP

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE

MOIS

SAN

LICINI

BRI FAB

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

FON

C. DEL

PISCI

XXII MARZO

GIAZZO

RUBBI

ARIA MARZ

STR

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

E DEI CALL

CASTEL

ERIA SEL CAS

DEL

CALLE

C. LARGA

CORTE

MEZ O

DEI

LARGA

CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

LE CAL

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

IOL

ERIA

CALL GABRI E

G. GALLIN

CALLE

CAMPO

CAL LE

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

VERO

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

BALO TE

LE CAL

MINELL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

CALLE

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

BRI FAB

LARGA

LIO

DEI

RTA

Teatro la Fenice

SAN

LE CAL

CALLE

CAOTO

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

ERI

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CALLE

lva C.

ONA

CALLE

BOT

Teatro Malibran

SALVAD OR

C.DE

E C.

DEI

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

IZA

CORTE GRAGOLINA

AZZ

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

WID

RIO

SALIZA

SAN

NDE LOCA CALLE

SSIN

VER

LAR

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

S.Canciano

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

ASSA

Santa Maria del Giglio

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CORTE DEL

A LUC SAN

CALLE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

V O LT

Casa di Marco Polo

MAR ZARI A DEL

DEL

LE CAL

San Fantin

CALLE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

Rio

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEG

San Salvador

C. DE LE COLONNE

DOL

PIC

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

Sco

TIM

RIT

RAMO

SAL

BO BEM

LE CAL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

RO TEAT

BON CAR

SAN

TEATRO

DEL

RIO

SALI ZZA DA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE LE CAL

E CALL

LARG A

MARCO R

RIOL

QUE OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

CIN NER COR

E CALL

FRUTA

COCCO

CAN

E VENIE

CAL

BARBA

CALLE

TOS

ZIO

HE BRIC FAB

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

C. DEL

Rialto

E CALL

ttim a

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

ORE

ari

CALL

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CALLE DEL BASTION

DEL FORNO

ZEN

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

ETIE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

SALIZADA

ENTA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RIO

CAF

CHIES

UZZI

ULI

San Giacomo di Rialto

ANG

STU

DEL

DELLA

CAPP

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

DAM

CALL

DEI

DEL

TEA TR O

CALL

CALLE

RINA

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

PAR

CAL

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

REA

RAVA

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

DEI

TI OCA

NT'A

PRI

CAL LE

MAN

C.SA

ENT A

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

Santo Stefano

Accademia

. S.AND

DAM

San Silvestro

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

NANI

CAL

DEL

Palazzo Grimani

AVV

BOT EGH E

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia DEL PISTOR

CATE

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CALLE

FOND

Santa Sofia

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

DEL

de ran

CAMPO PISANI

FON

CAL

ion

CALLE

SAN

CAL

ETA

RUGH

TER

ENTA

RUG

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

. NARI

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUT I

RIO

oS taz

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

E CALL

DEI LAVRANE

SACCA

CA’

SAN

IER

Zattere

FISOLA

LARGA

FAL

CALLE

STU A

GALIZ

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

FOND

CRO SER A

ZATTER

CHIESA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

MENTA

DELLA

BOT A

DE L

CAL

FONDA

CALLE

DEI

OZZE CARR

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

DEL

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

S. Samuele

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

DA IZA SAL

ZEL

LON

DON

CAL

PON

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

E AL

ANI GRIM

CA’

Ca' Rezzonico

E CALL

TER

CAR

FORNO

ZAT

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LINI

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

E DE CALL

al G

SESTIERE

CHI TODES

NTA

BON

DEL

CAL LE RAMO

ENTA

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

San Trovaso

DAM

' VE

ERA

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FON

S.Silvestro

Can

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

E DOL

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

C. DEI

SANT

TER

LE CAL

LE SAMUE

OGNI

RIO

RIN PEST

. DE

CAMPO APONAL

San Barnaba

DON SAN PER

SERA

S. Basilio

FOND

L’AG NEL LA

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

A S. PISCIN

DE OGNISAN

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

E CRO

ENTA

AME

CORTE DEL TEATRO

E DEL CALL

FONDAM

FOD

LET

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

SCA

CALL

DE INC INI

DEL

HETT

BESAG

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DA SAN

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPO SAN POLO

DEI PUTI

IAN

DORSODURO

TRAG

DEI TIOZ

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CALLE

AST

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

NT AR

CAL

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

E DEL

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

Santa Fosca

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

SEB

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CALL

E DE

SAN

CALL

SER

CRO

CAL

MADONA

PRET

CAL LE

DE LA

E DEI

ALE

RAMO

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

SAN

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TOMÀ

TTO

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

nde Canal Gra

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

A ENT

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DAM

DON

TTO

CALL

FOMO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FON

LAR

San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

GHE

ORE

CALLE

TALO

SAN POLO

TRA

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

OCHE

DEL

del

E ZANE

min

Rio

a de

S.Stae

CAL

IAT

rto

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

TERÀ

SAN

E RENIE

DEL

ll'O

CALL

CALLE DELL'OLIO

MEZ

RIO

CAL

GO RTE OPO SOT

LA TT

C. DE

DIA

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

E OCH

C.VE

E TRON

CAMPO SAN BOLDO TOR

RIO TERA’

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

TIN

Angelo Raffaele

DEL

CALL

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

L’ISOLA

ESI

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

San Rocco

SSA

RIELO

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

DE LA VIDA

CAL

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CAL

CIM

San Pantalon

lla

ETTI MOR

DAR O

PAN

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

RAMO

FON

RAM

A SAN

NUOVO

LORENZ

’

tini

CALLE

NTA

DE L’OGIO

C. SAN

MATTA DI CA’

TERA’

CALLE CAZZA

A mixture of history and legend, D O R S O D U R O all the secrets of Venetian cuisine. NIC

CALLE

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

BASEG

RIO

USE

CALLE

OLO

À D E

E C AN

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

CALL

CALLE

MENTA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RUGA BELA

ete

CALLE CONTARINA

A A MART SANT

LAC

O SAL

o de

LE CAL

SIM

DEI FONTEGH

L' ARZE

TA DE

AMEN

OTT

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

AMEN

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

RAG

FOND

AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

BAR

URATI

TER

S.Marcuola

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

CERER

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

RUGA VECCHIA

A OV

DEI

BAR

LAR

NU CH

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

CIM ESI

ENT A MIN

San Marcuola

I I CALLE ORSETT

MADON

CALLE DE LA LACA

CAL

Rio

Del

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

DEL REMER

BIAS

E DEL PISTO

RIO

CAMPIELLO

CAL

PAZ CAM

RAM

DAM

EONARDO

CAL

A CALLE

A RIVA

LIS

TA PROC

AMEN

LUN

Miser

Rio

CALL

San Leonardo

TA RIZZI

CAZZIO

AMEN

MENTA

FOND

della

icordi

SAN LEONARDO

RIO

Soranzo Cappello

FONDA

48 IN SEARCH OF

FOND

ENT

DEI AMAI

gaz

IERI

DAM

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

San Simeone Profeta

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

PENS

E NUO

CAM

FON

CHI

DEI

HIO

TERÀ

C. LAVADOR

Rio Nuov

ACC

RIO

'ANDR

CAS

CALLE

TAB

TABAC

SANT

ICA

RTE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

NUO

TA FABBR

RIO

AMEN

PIAZZALE ROMA

CAL

FOND

nde l Gra Cana

Giardino di Palazzo

NTIN

People Mover Venezia

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

TOLE

FONDAMENTA

'AN

. DEI

Ponte della Costituzione

Sant'Andrea

FON

TÀ ER LIB

TER

RIO

TRONCHETTO

cin

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Rio

CRI STO

LO EL RI E LL CA

P.le Roma

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

RO SA PE E LL CA

DE Ponte degli Scalzi

People Mover Venezia

AG SP

A ST

O ITTI

Riva de Biaso

LLE

CAT

ALZ

RÀ

MER

FON

EZIO

I SC

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

San Geremia

Loved by tourists, the island is famous for its colourful S A N T Ahouses CROCE and handcrafted lace.

DIR

ICO

MIS

Santa Maria di Nazareth

A DELL

VECCHIO

ONN

CALLE TRAGHETTO

A E M

LER

ER LE P

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

CAL

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

38 STROLLING DE

People Mover Venezia

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

MAD

» MAP PAGES 62-63 FO

ENTA

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

TE LE

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

DAM

CAMPO SAFFA

ISO

OND ROT

CAN

LAR

CAL

O ITEL CAP E DEL SE

CANNAREGIO

San Giobbe

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FON

CAL LE

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

DAM

CanaENTA CAN le di NAR Cann EGI O aregio

GIO

RTI

MUN EGH E

FON

NVE

LL VE E CC GH HI ET O TO

INE

LLO

MASEN

G PIAV

LAR

IAN

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

CALL

N G IR

San Girolamo TE

CAL

B AT

The monumental Rialto Bridge and its surroundings.

Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

THROUGH BURANO

22 GIFT GUIDE

Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

The city's passion for antiques is embedded within its soul.

20 STROLLING

THROUGH RIALTO

CAL LE

STIAN

ADIN

R SEBA

BRAG

la Sen

TTI

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ise

del

Rio O COLE

VENIE

di Sa

nt'Alv

.A CARL

Rio

FOND

AMEN

Santa Maria delle Penitenti FO

NUOVE

ITEN

AMEN

PEN

FOND

CASE

LAR

I CASE

36 TOP ANTIQUES

DELLE

CAL

’

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

F O N D A M E N TA

CALLE

MENTA

OSS

Parco

FONDA

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ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE

Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer

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THE "RETURN" OF MARINI TO THE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION

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Discover artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops.

BY NIGHT SPRING EVENINGS IN THE LAGOON

32 UNIQUE IN VENICE

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This month's round-up of shows, PORTO MARGHERA art exhibitions, and music. ENJOY VENICE

6 HOT DATES

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town

Scuola Grande di San Rocco

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as

MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63

Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

PHOTO LUIGI FARDELLA © SHUTTERSTOCK

a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

Teatro La Fenice

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FULVIO ROITER - ACQUA ALTA IN PIAZZETTA SAN MARCO, 2002 © FONDAZIONE FULVIO ROITER

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

MARCH

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

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MARCH

PHOTOGRAPHY

16 26

THE VINTAGE LENS OF ROITER

Casa dei Tre Oci pays homage to the late renowned Venetian photographer Fulvio Roiter, MARCH AUGUST a key figure of 20th-century photography, with a first-ever major retrospective. His life is told through images of his native Venice and its Lagoon, his landscapes, and architectural and street photography taken during his extensive travels in America, Belgium, Portugal, Spain and Brazil. The black-and-white photographs displayed are enhanced by video screenings and books edited by famous historians and journalists. Fulvio Roiter. Photographs 1948-2007 Casa dei tre Oci, Fondamenta Zitelle, 43, Giudecca www.treoci.org

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ART GLASS

8 15

GLASS BEADS  A PERFECT BLEND OF INNOVATION AND CREATIVITY

► Mosaic beads, blown beads, lampwork beads, beads with eyes, in spiral , flag, monochrome, feathered forms, with murrine inserts, with eyes, dotted, sinusoidal, DECEMBER APRIL 2017 2018 comb, wrapped or figural… the world of glass beads is truly unique. Not only decorative objects but also valuable trading goods exported in large quantities during the 19th century to the colonies of West Africa, India and the Americas. An exhibition at the Glass Museum in Murano offers visitors insight into the multi-faceted world of these small, precious artefacts of rare beauty. Artefacts that have long been a part of Venice’s glassmaking history and still today represent a lively and important production.

The World in a Glass Bead. The Murano Glass Bead Collection 1820-1890. Murano, Museo del Vetro (Spazio Conterie). museovetro.visitmuve.it

ARCHEOLOGY

FABRICS

12 30 JANUARY

JUNE

A MEETING OF TWO WORLDS ▼ Forty cultures of pre-Columbian America, including those of the Maya, Aztec and Inca, are explored through a display of 200 relics from the vast Ligabue collection, which traces five thousand years of civilization. An entire continent, pulsating with humanity had remained hidden from Europe for thousands of years, before being discovered in 1492. This unique exhibition testifies to the commitment of Venetian entrepreneur Giancarlo Ligabue, an explorer, researcher and passionate collector who, for decades, embarked on more than 130 archaeological and anthropological expeditions throughout the world.

The world that didn’t exist. Pre-Columbian art in the Ligabue Collection Palazzo Loredan-Istituto Veneto di Scienze Lettere ed Arti San Marco, 2945 (Campo Santo Stefano). www.fondazioneligabue.it

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20 26 JANUARY

AUGUST

AMIDST VELVETS AND BROCADES

▲ For a few months, the spectacular display of garments and accessories housed at Palazzo Mocenigo – a testament to the cultural exchange between the city of Venice and the East – will be enhanced by twenty exquisite pieces that belonged to the maternal family of artist Mariano Fortuny. A particularly interesting collection of pieces, which served as a constant source of inspiration for the creation of his prints on textiles and his activity as a fashion designer.

Venice and the East. The Collection of the Venice Foundation Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo San Marco, 2945 (Campo Santo Stefano). mocenigo.visitmuve.it

MARCH MUSIC

TALENT AND LIGHTNESS

► During his ‘Equilibrium Tour’ for piano and strings, MARCH classical music virtuoso Giovanni Allevi will make a stopover in Venice to treat audiences to the magical sounds of his latest album, titled ‘Equilibrium’, scheduled for release on 20 October 2018. Accompanied by 13 strings from the Italian Symphonic Orchestra, Allevi – a composer, pianist and conductor – will perform his latest compositions, and the more well-known pieces that have marked his 20-year career, with skill and agility. An artist who expresses a new European rhythmic and melodic intensity based on classical traditions, interspersed with the sounds of the present to bring us a new type of ‘contemporary classical music’.

Equilibrium Tour by Giovanni Allevi Teatro Goldoni. San Marco, 4650/B giovanniallevi.com - www.teatrostabileveneto.it

SAVE THE DATE MAY >> BIENNALE ARCHITETTURA 2018 Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara are the curators of the 16th International Architecture Exhibition, that will take place from 26 May to 25 November (Preview 24 and 25 May) in the Giardini and the Arsenale, and around other venues in Venice. The Biennale Architettura 2018 will be titled ‘Freespace’, a word that describes a generosity of spirit and a sense of humanity at the core of architecture's agenda, focusing on the quality of space itself. With this theme the Biennale will offer the public examples, proposals and elements - built or unbuilt - of work exemplifying the essential qualities of architecture, including the modulation, richness and materiality of surface, and the orchestration and sequencing of movement, revealing the embodied power and beauty of architecture.

dell’Accademia, beginning on 7 September. These exhibitions will kick off the celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of Tintoretto’s birth. The anniversary will be celebrated in 2019 with an unprecedented exhibition at the National Gallery of Washington, the first ever to be held abroad. The celebrations will include comparisons with Titian and other Venetian artists, and collateral events at churches and Venice’s Scuole Grandi, to disseminate the awareness of his art across the city. Jacopo Tintoretto, Venetian artist (1519-1594) Palazzo Ducale and Gallerie dell’Accademia palazzoducale.visitmuve.it www.galleriedellaccademia.org

OCTOBER >> GLASS ART The 2018 autumn exhibition at ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’, curated by Marino Barovier, will be dedicated to the Cappellin glassworks and Carlo Scarpa. The company’s production included transparent glass works, precious ‘lattimo’ glass embellished with gold, glass paste, bright ‘incamiciato’ works, glass with ‘fenicio’ decorations as well as figurines, animals and plants. The Cappellin glassworks and the young Carlo Scarpa. Documents and glass works research. Le Stanze del Vetro-Fondazione Cini. Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. www.lestanzedelvetro.org/en/exhibitions

16th International Architecture Exhibition Giardini and Arsenale. www.labiennale.org

SEPTEMBER >> TINTORETTO 500 Two monographic exhibitions dedicated to the Venetian artist Tintoretto will be held at the Palazzo Ducale and at the Gallerie w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES PHOTOGRAPHY

10 29

A NEVER SEENBEFORE MARILYN

► An original, unbiased way of FEBRUARY APRIL conveying the beauty, charm and authenticity of women who became timeless icons. For the first time in Europe, this exhibition showcases several ‘everyday’ portraits of Marilyn Monroe captured through the lens of fashion photographer Milton H. Greene. In addition to these images of the Hollywood diva, who became a close friend of Greene following a photo shoot for ‘Look’ magazine in 1953, the exhibition brings together a group of mainly black-and-white photographs, featuring film stars such as Marlène Dietrich, Farrah Fawcett and Candice Bergen. This exhibition is of significant documentary value since, in addition to highlighting specific aspects of Hollywood society in the Fifties, it also pays tribute to photography, a medium that, in this case, brings out the essence of the female spirit, revealing its most intimate aspects. Open Wed-Sun 4pm-8pm. Free admission.

Women by Milton H. Greene Centro Culturale Candiani, Piazzale Candiani, 7-Mestre www.comune.venezia.it

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial (28 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale Architettura 2018 (26 May-25 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 16th International Architecture Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara. Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (13 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. 10 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

Feast of San Piero de Casteo (24 June-1 July) Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (15 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art (29 August-8 September) > 75th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia.

NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice Concert Season Opening (2 November ) Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day. Teatro La Fenice - Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November) DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (17-18 December) > The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists.

The Venice Glass Week (9-16 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano.

JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January) >16th edition of the traditional New Year’s Concert. Regata delle Befane (6 January) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice (from San Tomà to Rialto Bridge).

OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (20-27 October) Venicemarathon (21 October)

FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice (16 February5 March 2019) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.

SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (2 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions.

Hot Venues CA’ PESARO-INTERNATIONAL GALLERY OF MODERN ART Santa Croce, 2076. Map E3 T: 041 721127 www.capesaro.visitmuve.it › 23 February − 20 May GINO ROSSI A VENEZIA. Dialogo tra le collezioni di Fondazione Cariverona e Ca' Pesaro

GALLERIE DELL'ACCADEMIA. FRANCESCO HAYEZ, RINALDO AND ARMIDA (1812-13)

CA’ REZZONICO Dorsoduro, 3136. Map D5 T: 041 2410100 www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it CASA DI CARLO GOLDONI San Polo, 2794. Map D4 T: 041 2759325 www.carlogoldoni.visitmuve.it COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Dorsoduro, 701. Map E5 T. 041 2405411 www.guggenheim-venice.it › 27 January – 1 May MARINO MARINI. Visual passions FONDAZIONE CINI. SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. Map G6 www.cini.it GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità). Map D5 T: 041 5200345 www.gallerieaccademia.org › 29 September 2017 – 2 April 2018 CANOVA, HAYEZ AND CICOGNARA. The last glory of Venice www.mostrabicentenariogallerie.it MUSEO CORRER San Marco, 52 (Piazza San Marco). Map F4 T: 041 2405211 www.correr.visitmuve.it MUSEO DEL MERLETTO (LACE MUSEUM) Piazza Galuppi, 187. Burano. Off Map T: 041 730034 www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it MUSEO DEL VETRO (GLASS MUSEUM) Fondamenta Giustinian, 8 Murano. Off Map T. 041 2434914 www.museovetro.visitmuve.it › 8 December 2017 – 15 April 2018 IL MONDO IN UNA PERLA. La collezione di perle del Museo del Vetro 1820-1890 MUSEO DI PALAZZO MOCENIGO Santa Croce, 1992. Map E3 T: 041 721798 www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it › 20 January 2017 – 26 August 2018 VENEZIA E L’ORIENTE. La collezione della Fondazione di Venezia

MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE (NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM) Santa Croce, 1730. Map D3 T: 041 2750206 www.msn.visitmuve.it › 4 November 2017 – 18 March 2018 SEDUZIONE REPULSIONE. Quello che le piante non dicono PALAZZO CINI. LA GALLERIA Dorsoduro, 864 (San Vio). Map E5 T: 041 2710217 www.palazzocini.it

BASSANO DEL GRAPPA. MUSEO CIVICO Piazza Garibaldi, 34. T. 0424 519901 www.museibassano.it › 23 February – 25 June IVAN BARBAFANTE. La bellezza dell'inutile PADOVA. PALAZZO ZABARELLA Via degli Zabarella, 14. T. 049 8753100 www.zabarella.it

PALAZZO DUCALE San Marco, 1. Map F4 T: 041 2715911 www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it PALAZZO FORTUNY San Marco, 3958. Map E4 T: 041 5200995 www.fortuny.visitmuve.it PALAZZO GRASSI San Marco, 3231 (Campo S. Samuele). Map D4 PUNTA DELLA DOGANA Dorsoduro, 2. Map F5 T. 041 2401308 www.palazzograssi.it TORRE DELL’OROLOGIO (CLOCK TOWER) Piazza San Marco. Map F4 www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it OUT OF TOWN VICENZA. PALAZZO LEONI MONTANARI GALLERIE D’ITALIA Contra’ Santa Corona, 25. T: 800 578875. www.gallerieditalia.com › 18 October 2017 – 15 April 2018 GRISHA BRUSKIN. Icone sovietiche

CLOCK TOWER

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS

Venice by night After reveling in the beauty of Lagoon city during the day, and having recharged your batteries by resting at your hotel, it’s time to enjoy Venice by night, when the ‘calli’ are no longer packed with tourists. From theater to fine dining, sophisticated bars and outdoor concerts, the choice of after-dark activities in this remarkable city is endless. Here are some of Where®’s recommendations. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

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ave you bolted down a quick lunch in order not to miss a single minute’s sightseeing? If this is the case, now’s your chance to indulge in a fabulous, relaxing dinner. Venice abounds in top-notch restaurants, including several recipients of Michelin stars (for a complete list see pages 44-45).

TASTING EXPERIENCE Here are a few suggestions to delight your palate this month. Take a boat from the Hotel dei Giardini Reali in St. Mark’s Square and head to the Island of Roses at the Hotel JW Marriott to dine at Dopolavoro. Many of the ingredients used by chef Giancarlo Perbellini are sourced from the island’s vegetable garden and the flavours of his cuisine are a real discovery. Before entering the restaurant, stop and enjoy an aperitivo on the terrace, which, in addition to hosting an infinity pool, also offers a fabulous view over the city.

There are two must-vast addresses amongst the city’s starred restaurants that we recommend. The Met, at the hotel Metropole, where chef Luca Veritti tantalizes diners’ taste buds with a menu titled ‘TraContemporaneo’, a double menu offering traditional Italian fare on the one hand and the chef’s personal reinterpretations on the other. The restaurant’s interior alone, boasting seasonal décor curated by design studio Raptus&Rose,

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

If you’re a fan of breathtaking sunsets and relaxing environments then Venissa, on the island of Mazzorbo, is the place for you. The ingredients here are also sourced from the vegetable gardens, lovingly tended by the inhabitants of Burano and visible from the restaurant’s windows. For a truly special dining experience, make sure to sample the wine that is locally produced and named after the restaurant.

Venice offers an array of fine-dining options to savour it magical atmosphere by night. Enjoy innovative Japanese cuisine at the Sushi Mirai restaurant (above) or more traditional fare while admiring the Lagoon’s panoramic views. Alternately, at cocktail hour, head to the Gran Caffè Lavena which places the focus on elegant cocktails and aperitifs accompanied by the soothing sounds of an orchestra.

is worth a visit. In summer, the Met Garden Corner offers customers the option of enjoying a leisurely ‘al fresco’ lunch or dinner, immersed within the hotel’s lush gardens. Another must-visit is the Osteria da Fiore. One of the city’s most famous restaurants, this locale serves top-notch Venetian fare infused with carefully selected, high-quality seasonal ingredients. Since the restaurant boasts a fabulous wine list, make sure to ask the sommelier to recommend a vintage that pairs best with your meal. Al Vecio Fritolin is one of the most notable

Teatro La Fenice Royal Box 14 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

WHERE NOW | FOCUS

of those venues that have recently made a name on Venice’s culinary scene. Highlights include high-quality, fresh ingredients sourced by its owner Irina Freguia, the cuisine of chef Pierluigi Lovisa and the fabulous sweet treats created by Raffaele Minute, the young, creative soul of the restaurant. Over the past few years, Venice has also embraced international culinary trends. If you’re a fan of this genre, we warmly recommend visiting either the Mirai Japanese Sushi Bar, an elegant, innovative Japanese restaurant located at the Hotel Principe (miraivenice.com), or the Luna Sentada which offers a delightful blend of oriental and Venetian cuisine (www.lunasentada.it). OPERA AND MORE Since Italy is the birthplace of opera, why not enjoy an evening listening to some Verdi or Donizetti? It goes without saying that the most popular option is the Teatro La Fenice, the city’s temple of good classical music (www.teatrolafenice.it). A night at the opera is also a good opportunity to admire the mastery with which the theatre was built at the end of the 18th century and then rebuilt “where it was, as it was” after two devastating fires in 1836 and 1996. The best view of the theatre can be enjoyed from the Royal Box. Every evening, the theatre offers an interesting program of performances ranging from opera to classical music, with occasional

performances by contemporary international stars. If you’re a jazz enthusiast, the theatre will be hosting two concerts dedicated to young talents of Italian jazz in the Sale Apollinee, on Saturday 17 March and Saturday 24 March at 7pm. Venice is awash with musical ensembles wearing exquisite 18th century costumes. I Musici Veneziani perform regular renditions of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons nearly every evening at the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro” (www.imusiciveneziani.com), while the Scuola Grande dei Carmini hosts entertaining musical soirees titled Musica in Maschera, a concert/performance combining music with the mysterious, seductive world of Venetian masks. Alternately, Musica a Palazzo offers a unique operatic experience at Palazzo BarbarigoMinotto, a typical Venetian palazzo located just steps from St. Mark’s Square (www.classictic.com/it/venezia). Operas featured include Giuseppe Verdi’s ‘La Traviata’ (which debuted in Venice in 1853), the ‘Barber of Seville’ and ‘Rigoletto: each act takes place in a different room of the palace, and the audience follows the performers from the frescoed salon to the boudoir as they sing moving excerpts from the scores of these world-famous operas. Although the performance starts at 8.30pm, it’s advisable to get there a little earlier, perhaps having enjoyed a pre-opera ‘cicchetto’ at one of the area’s ‘bacari’ (www.where-venice.com/

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explore/bacari). Otherwise, if it’s late and you’re not a fan of classical music, just steps from St. Mark’s Square you’ll find the Hard Rock Cafe Venice. You can enjoy the best authentic American or local cuisine here, while surrounded by valuable pieces of music memorabilia from across the globe which you can purchase as a souvenir of your trip (www.hardrock.com/cafes/venice/it. FOR LOVERS OF MYSTERY Venice is a city steeped in mysterious stories, several of which are associated with ghosts. The city offers several tours for those looking to do something fun with the family. These include ‘Mystery in Venice: legends and ghosts of the Cannaregio District’ , a guided nighttime walking tour to discover the dark, mysterious side of Venice, while listening to stories and legends about the city’s ghosts (veniceincoming.com/tour/mystery-invenice_59). The tour takes place in one of Venice’s lesser-known ‘sestieri’ (districts) and

you’ll probably be tempted to return the next day to discover the area’s numerous typical locales and artisan shops. One of the most thrilling evening activities is a tour of the Basilica di San Marco (starting at 7pm). After closing time, when all the visitors who crowd into the church during the day have gone home, you can listen to the stories told in the mosaics, illuminated by a warm, all-enfolding light (www.venetoinside.com/tours-activities-inveneto). In addition to exploring its mysteries, Venice offers visitors a chance to solve one: Tecum (www.tecumgame.com), a murder mystery game, offers visitors a chance to be a detective for a night. Travel back in time to late 19th century Venice and help solve an

interesting murder case. A team from 4 to 10 participants is tasked with solving a crime at a Venetian ‘palazzo’. Participants are given two hours to discover a motive, investigate clues and unmask the murderer. However, as you’ll soon discover, this case is far from straightforward. Solving the crime requires your best analytical, observational and problem-solving skills, whilst in this mysteryfilled city imbued with Venetian history. An interesting fact: last year only one team managed to solve the crime! MUSIC ON THE ROCKS Throughout the year, Venice offers a great selection of live music, accompanied by an array of fabulous drinks. One of the most notable is Jazz at the Bauer, the jazz club

Located in a historic, typically Venetian-style building, at the Hard Rock Café you can enjoy authentic American or local cuisine, while surrounded by legendary pieces of music memorabilia from across the globe. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15

WHERE NOW | FOCUS at the Bauer hotel located just a short distance from St. Mark’s Square (www.bauervenezia.com/exclusive-agenda). In addition to featuring a line-up of starred performers, it also offers visitors a chance to soak up the atmosphere of one of the city’s most historic hotels. Jazz is alive and swinging at Venice Jazz Club (venicejazzclub.weebly. com) in the Dorsoduro district, the heart of Venice’s nightlife. Though slightly more informal, this club is equally renowned for the quality of its music. Every night, the venue hosts a different concert, and your first drink is included in the price of the ticket, with the option of dining prior to the concert. The area is also home to several other night spots where you can while away the time with a glass of good wine or a cocktail. In Campo Santa Margherita you’ll find Margaret Duchamp and the city’s famous Caffè Rosso, a small yet ultra-viby venue. Those in search of a truly unique atmosphere should head to a small, deconsecrated church in Cannaregio called the Chapel Club. Located inside the Chiesetta della Misericordia, the Chapel Club is a sort of Venetian ‘Art Speakeasy’. An exhibition space that in addition to hosting cultural events, also serves classic and contemporary cocktails. This unique club is one of the few places in Venice that stays open until 2 in the morning (on Fridays and Saturdays). Paradiso Perduto in Cannaregio is a find for anyone longing for a drink

canalside on a warm spring evening. Although the restaurant is also popular, the Paradiso Perduto is particularly noted for its Monday night gigs; big names like Chet Baker, Keith Richards and Vinicio Capossela have all played on this small stage. Also located in the same area is the recently opened Laguna Libre. A go-to destination for those in search of a romantic dinner and a spot of live jazz after dinner.

HIDDEN DELIGHTS Midway between a private club and an artistic lounge, the Chapel Club (left) is Venice’s go-to destination for a sophisticated cocktail experience. Above, a romantic canalside view of the new eco-osteria Laguna Libre in Cannaregio, where you can spend an evening listening to good live music.

The romantic side of Venice With the arrival of warmer weather, the city awakens from its wintry spell to reveal its more romantic side. An ideal time to marvel at its masterpieces, enjoy its fabulous restaurants and typical locales, stroll through its ‘calli’ or ride in a gondola. The latter is an unforgettable experience, enhanced by a bottle of wine, a blanket if it’s still a little chilly and, why not, a musician or singer. As an alternative, you can take a tour on a water taxi, while sipping a glass of prosecco or enjoying a cultural tour with a guide who will inform you about the history of Venice’s ancient ‘palazzi’. The best places to enjoy spectacular nighttime views? The most romantic place is definitely Punta della Dogana, from which you can admire the entire basin of San Marco lit up. Alternately, from the terrace of the Molino Stucky Hilton in Guidecca, you can enjoy a breathtaking view over the city, while sipping a fabulous cocktail prepared by the mixologists at the Skyline Bar.

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Punta della Dogana PDD-Mayer-1 / PDD-Mayer-2 © Thomas Mayer

www.potpourri.it San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810-1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332 Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996

FASHION · HOME · MAN · LIFESTYLE

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 18 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels, the Teatro Olimpico is included in the UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel (Padua), which narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ, cover the entire walls. Above, Piazza delle Erbe in Verona was the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Right page, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

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Verona, Piazza delle Erbe

University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 19

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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highend department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

► MONTBLANC This ‘Great Characters-The Beatles Special Edition Fountain Pen M’ pays homage to one of the most famous rock bands of all time. Its colorful stripes reference their costumes, while its cone and cap top draw inspiration from the mixer and microphone of the famous Abbey Road recording studios. www.montblanc.com

◄ MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Crafted from woven leather with an adjustable shoulder strap, this slouchy ‘Naomi’ Michael Kors Collection bag for the upcoming season is inspired by a sophisticated, boho-chic style. www.michaelkors.it

►CHIARA FERRAGNI COLLECTION This red glitter accessory with a ‘flirty’ polyurethane application is called ‘iPhone Cover Flirting’. One of the iconic accessories sold by the Italian fashion blogger turned designer. Available at luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. www.dfs.com www.chiaraferragnicollection.com

▲ TIFFANY & CO. Graphic angles and clean lines blend to create the beautiful clarity of the ‘Tiffany T’ collection. These ‘Two Open Horizontal Bar Pendants’ in rose and white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds, add a touch of sophistication to any look. www.tiffany.it

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◄ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Comfortable and sought-after, this calfskin and nabuk sneaker with a knurled rubber sole is rigorously Made in Italy. The perfect option to add a touch of timeless style to even the most casual ensemble. www.ferragamo.com

◄ FANFALUCA Renowned for its practical, whimsical toys, decorations and accessories, this Venetian concept store defines itself as a kid’s store devoted to fashion and design. Highlights on offer include these adorable padded cotton snail and seahorse-shaped cushions. ww.fanfaluca.com

► T’A MILANO The classic line of dried and candied fruit ‘Dragées’ by T’A Milano satisfies even the sweetest tooth with a delectable, sophisticated blend of ingredients. Now, there’s also a brand new flavour: salted caramel pearls covered with white chocolate. Available at luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. www.dfs.com www.tamilano.com

◄ MICHAEL KORS The men’s spring/summer 2018 collection features a contemporary style where each item of clothing – including this smoky blue linen-blend V-neck sweater – is completed by a series of dynamic, striking accessories including leather backpacks and travel bags. www.michaelkors.it

►SALVIATI Boasting over 150 years of glassmaking expertise and collaborations with international designers, Salviati’s timeless objet d’art are recognized worldwide for their outstanding quality and craftsmanship. Designed by Renzo Stellon, these elegant, hand-formed, hot-finished blown glass vases from the ‘Drops’ collection are made using the ‘Rigadin’ technique. www.salviati.com

▲ ARMANI BEAUTY “An irresistible combination of grace, strength and independence of spirit,” says Giorgio Armani. The new ‘Sì Passione’ fragrance is an intense, uncompromising scent for a confident woman who is willing to make extreme choices. www.armanibeauty.com

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The new home of femininity Marina Rinaldi, a style emblem dedicated to celebrating the curvier female form through great-fitting fashion, is located at no. 5028 of Merceria San Salvador. By Giulia Minero

he new store of the Reggio-Emiliabased brand is the result of a marriage between the brand’s iconic style, and the architecture, materials and colours of Venetian tradition highlighing its uniqueness. Overlooking the beating heart of sestiere San Marco, a portal featuring bar-relief motifs welcomes visitors into the world of Marina Rinaldi. The shop’s interiors, designed by Giovanni Pacciani from Studio Pacciani Milano, pay homage to the Serenissima, with red Venetian floors, white gypsum walls imbued with a vintage allure and hints of green echoing the changing colours of the lagoon. On the ground floor, large mirrors tarnished with mercury, imitating the furnishings of aristocratic Venetian palaces, cover the walls and reflect the natural light, while pale gold clothing rails blend

24 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

harmoniously with the style of the boutique to highlight the collections. However, it’s on the first floor that the ‘palazzo’s’ past is revisited thanks to an important project, which involved salvaging and restoring the palace’s red Palladian marble flooring; a feature reminiscent of the time when its interior housed the rooms of a house located in the calle. This is the go-to destination for style-conscious women, where tasteful luxury pieces for larger frames can be had without sacrificing fashion. This beautifully appointed space features the brand’s latest collections, including Voyage, created with light, fresh materials and stylistic influences from different countries, from Morocco to Ibiza, as well as lines dedicated to women who prefer a more casual, sporty-chic look.

The store features a comprehensive selection of apparel for all tastes and styles incorporating coats, dresses, trousers and outerwear in white, ecru, sand, black, blue, light blue and khaki green; perfect for all occasions. Additionally, the Venetian boutique also stocks the brand’s new capsule collection, the result of a collaboration with model Ashley Graham focusing on a re-interpretation of denim, designed to enhance each silhouette with stretch jersey and trendy details. >> Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064 and T: 041 3013445 (temp.) it.marinarinaldi.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Artistic glass in Murano

Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop). Map D3

Fanny Gloves

Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).

Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws and all the glass workshops were moved to Murano. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. During the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal and their works are true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano today has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini).

Map F5

Giovanna Zanella

For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo

A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES

A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.

T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHITfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIORwww.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARIwww.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

Made from durable denim twill, accented with embossed leather, this versatile HUGO BOSS tote bag is ideal for travel and everyday use.

26 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

CHOPARDwww.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTIwww.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLAwww.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MICHAEL KORSwww.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5 PRADA PRADAwww. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

Discreet yet contemporary, this extra-large model from CARTIER’s Tank Solo’ features a mechanical movement with automatic winding.

RENÉ CAOVILLA CAOVILLA www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038.

Sizing

Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com LAURENT San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER ATELIER www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO. CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’Swww.tods.com TOD’S San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACE VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

GIORGIO ARMANI’s spring/summer 2018 runway show featured elegant outfits enhanced by fluid lines highlighted by chromatic contrasts focusing on black and vibrant, bright lively colours, exalted, at times, by asymmetries.

IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Women clothes EUR US 32 1 34 2 36 4 38 6 40 8 42 10 44 12

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

IT 36 37 38 39 40 41

Women shoes EUR US 36 6 37 6.5 38 7.5 39 8.5 40 9 41 9.5

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8

IT 50 52 54 56 58 60

Men clothes EUR US 46 36 48 38 50 40 52 42 54 44 56 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Men shoes EUR US 40 7.5 41 8 42 8.5 43 9 44 10.5 45 11.5 46 12

UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 27

SHOPPING La Parigina

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

28 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an Elegant yet simple, the "M'ama Non M'ama" line by POMELLATO assortment of luxury sportswear. is characterized by its minimalist shapes and seductive colours. These www.laparigina.it. Open daily five new bangles in rose gold and diamonds have a double cabochon. 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open aesthetic. The store offers numerous special daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale facilities and services for its customers, including S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free 2 (Lido stop). Off Map Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Boggi Milano Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. garments aimed at a contemporary, modern Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the 041 522 8997. suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Michele De Fina Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, each stage of the working process from the 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10amcutting of the leather to the end creation. 7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle Marina Rinaldi della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide Map F4 range of collections, featuring both contemporary René Caovilla and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing bags, accessories for a total look that exudes his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; he has collaborated with fashion houses of the Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to (Rialto stop). Map F4 the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Pot-Pourrì Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps Three exclusive boutiques set against the in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10ammagnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria 7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcoand fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Vallaresso stop). Map F4 Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta

Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan

international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

SHOPPING DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior

Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi

The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www. TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

OFFICINA BERNARDI

AL DUCA D'AOSTA See page 28.

See page 30.

landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet

A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet

With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highstreet favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen. com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village

Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the

Pot-Pourrì, life in colour An original concept store in the heart of Venice, where the window displays resemble 3D paintings and the brightly-coloured clothing and sophisticated accessories come to life in striking installations. This is the Pot-Pourrì boutique where the clothing, set against the backdrop of real installations associated with everyday living, change according to the whims of its owner, Marina, and the seasons. Winter greys and blues give way to the vitality of fuchsia, yellow and bluette and the brilliance of light blue, green and white, vibrant colours imbued with personality, light and freshness. The interiors are decorated with flowers mirroring the colours of the dresses and jackets of the Pot-Pourrì brand, all produced in the label’s artisanal workshops. www.potpourri.it

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SHOPPING Dodo

The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice

For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map E4

Jaeger-LeCoultre

A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www. jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Nardi Venezia

A Gentleman in town Discussing style rules in men’s fashion with those visiting or living in a city like Venice is, to say the least, a challenge. Internationally acclaimed events like the Art Biennale, the Film Festival, the Historic Regattas and Carnival, renowned throughout the world for the elegance of their ensembles, combined with the natural beauty of a city living on water, are all examples of style from which we can certainly learn a lesson. Boggi Milano, a brand known for endorsing style and gentlemanly behavior, recommends simplicity, sophistication and balance enhanced by a touch of glamour. The Boggi Milano man is a businessman and a citizen of the world prioritizing sobriety and quality. A Gentleman can’t do without a blue hopsack blazer embellished by two mother-of-pearl buttons, worn over a timeless jersey polo shirt combined with a pair of white cotton stretch trousers. All that’s missing is a touch of glamour: a pair of white leather sneakers, a red silk macro-patterned pocket handkerchief and a white and blue striped canvas bag, enhanced with elegant leather trim, echoing the colours of the jerseys worn by gondoliers. The perfect look - Boggi Gentleman Style! www.boggi.com. San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321.

10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia

This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www. boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier

In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its 30 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Damiani

A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani. com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Officina Bernardi

The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Open daily, 10am-7pm. www.officinabernardi.com. Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906. Vaporetto Line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Omega

Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Pomellato

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794

The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the

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EN TER V O LT collections of prestigious brands including Damiani quest for innovation, excellence, performance and Kubrick and in operas including those D I staged by À BA O S RBA FRU RAMO TA R IO with the DEL M and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of prestige is reflected in its partnerships the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO DE ORO the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa alleria Internazionale and Longines. Also particularlyRworthy of noteSofia are San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto C Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN AL A C O RT E LE San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna Map F4 the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by stop). Rezzonico stop). Map D4 V B ATA G I A AR VA IS Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch CORTESE CAMPIELLO Tiffany & Co. TheSTELLA Merchant of Venice CORTE NOVA of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this Santi Apostoli who are new to the game can count on a service CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in brand which represents C A Lthe ‘Art of Perfumery in TI OZ GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro of excellence which entails full preand post-sale R IE ZI ® LI Setting has been known as the 1886, the Tiffany Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century assistance. Other services include a full maintenance S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann CA M P I E Lway LO Chiesa Evangelica ultimate symbol of love, paving the for Tiffany’s apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from N service with check ups and providing international SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M LE Luterana ID legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, S La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and C UO W LE E certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily LL CA modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, CAMPO 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. S.MARIA NOVA creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlyreflectC Athe typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. DELLA LLE San Cassiano Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoCAMPO Vallaresso stop). LAR PESCARIA GA N ZI A N G .of N CA coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made The Merchant A G A LVenice is not only a line of products S A D L IN Map F4 A S A LI ZA Santa Maria RI CAMPO Tiffany a destination for those seeking but a wider project which includes a concept store O spectacular DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli Salvadori beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa IR BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo A CO CA C A LL LL E ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in CAMPO DEL 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336LI (Calle ED Croce, the Spice shopCAMPO in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ L E ED MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ CAS Venice in 1857. A member of the World DELLA Federation of Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San EL T and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo TI LI A BO Teatro Malibran ELAirport. E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open CAMPO CA LL E DE LE ER dell’Ospe BE from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by theSAN GIACOMETO Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, Chiesa 1895 (Campo C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE SanMon-Sat Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA L highest diamond quality certificates. Open San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San NS LO BA RB AR ON di Rialto IA DE LE DE I Casa di Marco Polo Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 TO 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadoriLE CA RA MP O venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza CAMPO San AN Ca’ Macana CAMPIELLO E RIALTO Fontego Venini DEL67. SOLT: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique NUOVO Marco, Rolex: OneTedeschi of the oldest and finest mask making dei An artistic space, where you rediscover all the Piazza San Marco, 44. O T: 041 2602313. Salvadori workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film AN V CA RA C. D elegance and sophistication of the exquisite LLE Sant’Aponal EL EL F DEL Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 AD .M A O Nand parties. Ca’ Macana crafts Cauthentic ET P IO TEG RT IN MB O GH Ponteproduction EN O creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from RU GO 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso D SA C . A handmade masks in the same Lway PA L N G FO L E G that Venetian SA LE di Rialto CORTE IA Z Z CAMPO N CAMPO IOVNDA CORTE LIZ Murano. A prime location forTREVISAN passionate collectors, O AN ME DO CAMPO APONAL stop). Map F5 DEL NI NT ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO artisansZADAdid 800 years ago, never repeating a LA A LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO E RA D or those whose want to further their knowledge CAMPO NO X E L L decoration in order to ensure that mask is SANeach LIO CA Rialto Tag Heuer about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA unique. Thanks to their expertise, they S A Lalso hold DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones DA meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL L IO conferences and courses on the history of Venetian DEI PRETI GAL IAZZ in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. O CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO FontegoCALLE LAR masks and traditional Santa Maria mask-making C. LA techniques. RGA to master luxury sports chronographs with anManin GA M Other location: Fondamenta CORTE DEL Santa Maria T: 041 5224045. Dolfin Formosa PalazzoVetrai,BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO AZ Palazzo Rava Their were featured in important film ZIN masks CORTE SABION CAMPO I unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant DEL MONDOT: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or della Fava 47 (Murano). C. DE CAMPOIELLO DE LA FAVA Grimani Rialto CORTE NUOVO L CALI productions including DE LA PASINA CE“Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley MA RZA (Palazzo Cavalli) SAN SALVADOR o della Consolazione San Marco stops). Map F4 RIA SAN O E LE D EL

VONI

UNIQUE IN VENICE

VENETIANS

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy…

Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5

32 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Eredi Jovon

Eredi Jovon's cameo

ADVERTORIAL

Ottica Manuela

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4 Nicolao Atelier An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Only Sat 3-10 February and Sun 4-11 February open 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. www.nicolao.com. Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051. Map E2 Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268 Map E4 The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). www.themerchantofvenice.com. T: 041 2960559. Map F4

Piedàterre

Nicolao Atelier

The Merchant of Venice Murano Exclusive Collection

Ottica Mantovani

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SHOPPING

VENETIANS

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

Galleria Contini

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com).

34 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.

PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

SHOPPING

The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net).

world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue. com).

Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the

Bugno Art Gallery

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

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SHOPPING

VENETIANS

Top antiques

Antichità San Samuele

Tessitura Bevilacqua

Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise

36 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Alessandro Zoppi

Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5

Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in

Franco Dell'Orto

SHOPPING

collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Venezia, Le Stampe Turio

Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Venetia Studium

Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4

Antichità Zanutto Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3

Ca' Nova

Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San

Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5 Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265.

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STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

VENETIANS

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

ADVERTORIAL

MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.

www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523.

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39

DINING

Arrigo Cipriani, owner of Harry's Bar

A legend in Venice Raise your hand if you’ve never heard about Harry’s Bar. This must-visit destination for VIP watching has been the favourite place of almost ever celebrity to visit Venice since it first opened. By Stefania Vida

ounded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice (including Ernest Hemingway, Orson Welles, Truman Capote, Georges Braque and Peggy Guggenheim). Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to savour the slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. The venue is open daily from 10.30am to 11pm, and is ideal at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! The history of the establishment of this Venetian landmark is definitely worth knowing. The bar was named after Harry Pickering, a 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

young American student who moved to Venice with his aunt in the 1920s. After two months, Harry Pickering fell out with his aunt, who went away leaving him with her dog and very little money. Giuseppe Cipriani, who was the barman of the hotel where the American was staying, lent him money for his passage home. A few years later, the young man returned to Venice, and, as a sign of gratitude, not only paid Cipriani back the loan but also added an additional sum so that he could open his own bar. Cipriani decided to call his venue ‘Harry’s Bar’ in honour of his young friend, and Harry’s Bar opened on 13 May 1931. >> San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 528 5777

The Bellini’s cocktail For those who know nothing of its origins, the Bellini was invented in 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, the owner of Harry’s bar. Thanks to its pinkish hue, which reminded Cipriani of the colour of the toga worn by a saint in a painting by Giovanni Bellini, he called the cocktail 'Bellini'. The secret ingredients for a perfect Bellini are a mix of a puree of ripe, white peaches and Prosecco or Champagne.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto

Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta

Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta

One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna

Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera

Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini

Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo

The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-

A Beccafico Arte

It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana

Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza

Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo

A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

It’s called “Vecio”, but it’s new High-quality cuisine requires the finest, seasonal ingredients. For this reason, every day, Irina Freguia, the owner and brainchild of Vecio Fritolin, heads to the Rialto market – the oldest in the city, located just steps from the restaurant – to source the freshest meat, fish and vegetables. This locale boasts an age-old history. Formerly an old-style ‘bacaro’, or small unassuming tavern, where guests could savour a snack and a glass of wine, Vecio Fritolin has held pride of place in Santa Croce since the 18th century. Although it has now been transformed into a restaurant, it has lost none of the old-school charm that makes it one of the most pleasant places in Venice for a special occasion meal. The kitchen is manned by two chefs: Pierluigi Lovisa, boasting 40 years of experience in the business, is the ‘director’ of this historic locale, featured in guides worldwide, while Raffaele Minute, the young, creative soul of the restaurant, is more oriented towards experimentation, upgrading desserts, hors d’oeuvres and several other dishes served at the restaurant with a contemporary twist. Vecio Fritolin. Santa Croce, 2262 (Calle della Regina). T: 041 5222881. www.veciofritolin.it

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Giorgio Schifferegger. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XIIcentury church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6

Pisanino

Do Leoni

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. www.palazzettopisani.com Located in the noble floor of Palazzetto Pisani, facing the Grand Canal, here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Moreover, try out the Balcony experience, a romantic and unique experience just for two persons on a private balcony facing the Grand Canal, simply enjoy an aperitivo in Venetian style, an exclusive dinner or even a continental breakfast. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Accademia stop). Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map

contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3

Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4

44 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

Il Ridotto

Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath

Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;palazziâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Glam

Osteria da Fiore

Met

Dopolavoro

Oro

Venissa

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DINING

Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.

stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore

A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal

Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian 46 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,

tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar

Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle

1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon

Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Calcina

Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best

DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Conca d’Oro

Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

La Porta d’Acqua

Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra

Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.

Locanda Cipriani

For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic

restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer

Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Map F3

Trattoria Do Forni

The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner

Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Italian specialties and traditional Venetian dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice

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A mixture of history and legend, Venetian cuisine uses simple San Francesco della Vigna ingredients sourced from land and sea that are transformed San Lorenzo into delectable dishes telling the story of the Serenissima’s glorious past. Enjoy your meal! San Giovanni

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ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.

Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089

LA FAVORITA Situated in the heart of the Lido of Venice, since 1950, this historic family-run trattoria has paid tribute to Venetian cuisine. Its menu, comprised mainly of fish dishes, is inspired by locally-sourced ingredients with a focus on distinct, easily recognizable flavours. Standouts include fish tartare or bigoli with shrimp and artichokes which, during warmer months can be savoured in the garden accompanied by a rich selection of wines and great live music. See page 40 Via Francesco Duodo, 33. Lido di Venezia. T: 041 5261626.

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

The ‘return’ of Marini to Venice

n 1948, Peggy Guggenheim purchased a plaster sculpture by Marini titled ‘The Angel of the City’. The following year, the Pistoia-born artist cast this work in bronze, just in time to be exhibited at the Contemporary Sculpture Exhibition, organized by Peggy herself in the garden of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. Since then, the sculpture, which dominates the terrace of Peggy’s Venetian home overlooking the Grand Canal, has become an icon of the collection. Hence, this tribute to Marini acquires even greater substance and meaning. The show features more than 50 of the artist’s sculptures, plus 20 additional works, ranging from Egyptian to 19th-century sculptures, which offer a comparison to Marini’s work; a dialogue offering an innovative and critical perspective on the

50 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

themes addressed by Marini, moving beyond the limits of chronology, styles and periods. Three of his masterpieces, ‘Icarus’, a ‘Rider’ and a ‘Miracle’ (see photo) testify to the astonishing range of languages and styles with which Marini, at the height of his expressive abilities, challenged himself. Particularly noteworthy are the marvelous portraits that enshrined the artist as the greatest portraitist-sculptor of the century. A tour of the exhibition mounted in the Project Rooms is held daily at 3.30pm. The tour is free-of-charge and included in the entry ticket to the museum: an opportunity making this exhibition even more significant. >> Marino Marini. Visual Passions Until 1 May - www.guggenheim-venice.it

Peggy Guggenheim on the terrace of Palazzo Venier dei Leoni next to Marino Marini, “The Angel of the City”. Venice, 1960s.

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection pays tribute to the sculptor Marino Marini in an exhibition comparing his works with other sculptures. By Romena Brugnerotto

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco

This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)

This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal)

Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto

This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm5pm. www.madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco

A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with FOR UPDATES VISIT numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 51

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it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health)

Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here.

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892. 52 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

Museo Correr

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features

Female Mayan figure designed for use as a rattle. One of the artefacts displayed at the exhibition dedicated to the Ligabue collection at PALAZZO LOREDAN (see page 8).

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

EDITOR'S TIP

The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo

One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects,

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

| SIGHTSEEING

FREE ADMISSION TO STATE MUSEUMS

Scuola Grande dei Carmini

Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini. it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5

Teatro La Fenice

Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands

Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art

Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca' d'Oro Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Venice, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 4 March. Gallerie dell’Accademia www.gallerieaccademia.org Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità) Open Mon 8.15-2pm and Tues-Sun 8.15-7.15pm.

Museo di Palazzo Grimani www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo Nazionale di Villa Pisani (National Museum Villa Pisani) www.villapisani.beniculturali.it Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra (20 minutes from Venice) Open Tues-Sun 9am-5pm.

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro (Giorgio Franchetti Gallery at Ca’ d’Oro). www.cadoro.org Cannaregio, 3932. Open Mon 8.15am-6.45pm and Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Museo d’Arte Orientale (Oriental Art Museum). www.arteorientale.org Santa Croce, 2076. Open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Venezia (National Archaeological Museum of Venice) www.polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it Piazzetta San Marco, 17/52. Open daily 10am-5pm.

Palazzo Grimani, Chamber of Apollo

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr

The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro

A symbol of Venetian culture

If you stand with your back to Palazzo Ducale you can admire the magnificent Palazzo della Libreria Sansovina, the seat of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana. This library boasts a heritage collection of more than one million books preserved alongside the works of great masters including Titian and Tintoretto. Its headquarters, located in the former Mint of Venice and, more specifically, in Piazzetta San Marco, include the adjacent building of the Public Library of St. Mark, with its ancient Reading Room and Vestibule. Some interesting facts for book lovers: its impressive heritage collection includes approximately 1,000,000 books, 13,117 bound manuscripts and 4,639 unbound manuscripts, 2,887 incunabula (documents printed before 1501) and 24,060 ‘cinquecentine’ (16th-century editions). A visit to the Monumental Rooms of the Library is an absolute ‘must’ (10am-5pm). marciana.venezia.sbn.it

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art

The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico. visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore

Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing

The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum)

Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco

The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny

Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th

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century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi. it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399. Padiglione delle Navi. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria

Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini. it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses

The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'

Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.

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ENTERTAINMENT

A day cruise to the islands No trip to Venice is complete without spending a day on the islands. Spring is the perfect time to take a cruise to discover the authentic side of the Lagoon. By Romena Brugnerotto

urano is famous throughout the world for its production of artistic glass. While strolling through the island, you will be struck by the vast array of glass works on display. However, don’t be fooled. If you want to make a purchase, make sure that the item has actually been created on the island. Authentic Murano glass products are protected by the Vetro Artistico Murano trademark, including a sticker attached to the product on sale. Many glassblowing factories and exhibition spaces offer visitors a behind-the-scenes look at the masters sculpting and blowing delicate, colourful glass works of art, accompanied by explanations regarding time-honored glassblowing techniques. Before leaving the island, you can relax and drink a cup of coffee on the terrace of 56 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

the Hotel LaGare, an intimate space overlooking Murano’s Grand Canal. The Hotel is located just steps from the Glass Museum, which tells the story of this exclusive artistic technique with a stunning display of unique pieces (www.museovetro.visitmuve.it). It’s now time to leave the island and head to Torcello, where the history of Venice began. In ancient times, the island looked completely different, and the Basilica dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, serves as a reminder of its former splendour. Look for Attila’s Throne and the Devil’s Bridge and celebrate your experiences in these ancient places. Apart from the Cathedral, the other main draw is the island’s celebrated Locanda Cipriani (www.locandacipriani.com), renowned for its legendary cuisine and for having

hosted the author Ernest Hemingway in 1948 and numerous other celebrities. Loved by tourists, Burano is famous for its colourful houses and handcrafted lace. An absolute must-visit is the luxury home linen atelier owned by Martina Vidal (www. martinavidal.com). Additionally, the inimitable beauty of the age-old craft of lace making can also be admired at the La Perla Gallery. After visiting the Church of San Martino, renowned for its bell tower which is as crooked as the leaning Tower of Pisa, head to Carmelina Palmisano to purchase one of its legendary Venetian sweet treats. Although there’s a huge variety, its most famous specialties include its ‘Bussola’ and ‘Esse’ biscuits which can be savoured at the end of a meal, accompanied by a glass of sweet wine.

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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia

Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino,

opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona

The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

WELLNESS

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it ■ OPERA 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25 March LA BOHÈME by Giacomo Puccini Italian and English surtitles Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Francesco Micheli, director Edoardo Sanchi, sets Silvia Aymonino, costumes Fabio Barettin, light designer

Boscolo Venezia

Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

■ CONCERTS 2, 4 March YURI TEMIRKANOV CONDUCTOR Music by: Franz Schubert (Symphony No.7 in E, D.729 Unfinished) and Sergej Prokof’ev (Symphony No. 5 in B flat Major, Op. 100) Yuri Temirkanov, conductor 30 March ANDREA MARCON CONDUCTOR. World Premiere Music by: Franz Schubert (Symphony No 4 in c minor D 417 Tragic) and Giovanni Battista Pergolesi (Stabat mater P. 77) ■ BALLET 12 March at Sale Apollinee (free admission) “GISELLE” A VENETIAN DREAM A conference about “Giselle” ballett with video and commentary (in Italian) ■ CHAMBER MUSIC - MUSIKÁMERA 14, 15 March at Sale Apollinee AVOS PIANO QUARTET, excerpts from Brahms Mario Montore, piano Mirei Yamada, violin Marco Nirta, viola Alessio Pianelli, cello 14, 15 March at Sale Apollinee LORNA WINDSOR, ANTONIO BALLISTA, ENZO RESTAGNO, excerpts from Debussy Lorna Windsor, soprano Antonio Ballista, piano Enzo Restagno, narration

I MUSICI VENEZIANI Music, performances and spectacular 18th-century masks and costumes, reminiscent of the splendour of the Serenissima, combine to bring the past into the present. www.imusiciveneziani.com

The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2018

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!

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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 59

VI DE

Z AT

A RI

SER

VI ER A

LLA

ENE

VI AN D LI

O PEZZ

CESC

VIA FRAN

ANA SS

I S E

ESSENTIALS

SAC

SOLA D SAN LAZZARO DEGL ARMEN

O VA

VI ND R

I E EL

LI NO DA SP IR A

Special Tours

VIA

GALEONE VENEZIANO This is a unique way to visit Venice’s lagoon while savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical legacy. Built in 2001 to bring ship owner Andrea Longo’s longtime dream to life, the “Galeone Veneziano”is a vessel inspired by the ancient galleons, used in bygone days, by the Serenissima. • Services: designed to merge history with a contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the services of a modern ship. This one-of-a-kind venue is perfect for parties and a great way to amaze your travel companions; it can be rented for private events such as weddings and business meetings, offering guests a special tour, with or without lunch or dinner, while sailing around the islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags and banners. • Events: every Wednesday and Friday evening, you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner

FETT A

PIGA

SAN

VIA

PIG

LL O

SAN SERVOLO

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA CAN DIA

VIA

R AT

ON I

CO RD

DE I

LA ST EL

CA LLE

LL E

SQ UER

STE LLA

TRAGHETT

CALL E

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nti

ENTA DEI ME NDI

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C. DEI

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CALLE BALBI

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FON DAM

DE LA TESTA

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LA MADONA

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CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

RIOL

CORTE DEL REMER

FOND.

FOND

FRUTA

CALLE GABRI ELI

CORTE CORTESE

SCO

VENIER

BARBA

FRANCE

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

TERÀ

G. GALLIN

CAMPIELLO STELLA

VAR ISCO

SAN

PISCINA VENIER

RIO

LARGA

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAL LE

CALLE

CA LL E DE L CR ISTO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

ENTA

ULI

CALLE

Dogan

FONDAM

ll'O

della

ENTA

Punta

AC E

PISCINA SANT'AGN ESE

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MAN

À SA

SAN VIO

FO RN

FONDAM

ENT A

WID

DEL CAFETIER

LIBRER

DAM

C O RT E B ATA G I A

CALLE

DE LE TOLE

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

O DEL CAMPIELL

CAL

S.Canciano

BARBARIA

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

DEL

S. SA M UE LE

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

DE LE ERBE

CALLE

SA LIZ AD A

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

CALLE

CA LL E DE I OR BI LE MU NE GH E

Santa Sofia

CASTEL

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CA LL E DE

RIO

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

San Francesco della Vigna

CA LL E GI US FA TIN LI IAN ER

CANZIAN A SAN

CAL LE

DE L’OGIO

CORTE DEL MORION

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CA LL E BE AT A EU FE MIA

SALIZAD

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

I MIR

SANTA GIUSTINA

RIN I

Teatro Malibran

ZON

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

SALIZADA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE

CORTE SACCA

CORTE NOVA

San Lorenzo

Giardino delle Vergini

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

CASTELLO

DON A

ini

Verg

de le

CCA

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello

Casa di Marco Polo

TECU À CA

SALUT E

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

Rio

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Arsenale di Venezia

ROSA

FOND GIOV AMEN ANNI LATETA RANO

L’AN ZOL O

POLA

RA ’ SE

SAN

CAL LE

LARGA

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

Arsenale di Venezia

TIN MAR

CALLE

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

CORTE TREVISAN

SAN

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

INA PISC

CALLE TERCO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE SAN LORENZO

RIN PEST

CORTE DELLE GATE

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

TER PIGNA

L’ARCO

SALAM

MARAFONI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE DEI FURLANI

FON

CALLE

IER

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

O MEZ

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

ENA

ARS

SANT'ANNA

LIO

SAN

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

DA SALIZA CALLE

ANTONIN

SALIZAD A SAN

CALLE LION

San Martino

MEN TA

GIAZZO

LE CAL

CALLE TERAZZERA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

DEI PRETI

TI GRIT

E DE CALL

DEI

FONDAMENTA

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

ARSENALOTTI

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

BANDE

CALLE

E CALL

NALE

DE LE

TERR

FOS CA

Abazia della Misericordia

San Giorgio dei Greci

IN DE L’OSMAR

A ZORZI SALIZAD

CRO SER A

CAL LE

TA A R SE

AMEN

FOND

CALLE

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CORTE

CALLE

CA TAS

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

sso)

(Vallare Marco

AC E

DE LLA

RIO TER RÀ

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

C. LARGA

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

Sant'Elena

NTA FONDAME

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CORTE

CAL LE

San Francesco di Paola

FONDAME

LA TANA

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F O N D A M E N TA

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O SAT MUS

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DE LA

CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

SANT’ELENA L

CORTE

LE CAL

DE LA FAVA

SALIZA

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

LICINI

CORTE

EDIO REM

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

VIDA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO C. PIANT

San Giovanni Novo

DEL

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CALLE

MO ROS INA

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

San Giuseppe di Castello

HI O MASG

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

LE CAL

FRUTARIOLI

DEI FORNI

FONDAMENTA

BALD

TONI E N TA A N

MARCO

CORTE

CAMPO

LEN

LE VIGNOLE

CANONI DE LA

SAN

San Zaccaria

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

Arsenale

ONI

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

Santa Maria della Pietà

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

S C H I AV

R I VA D EGLI

VONI

GARI

LLEONI

LARGA

SCHIA

EPPE

FONDAM

CALLE

DEL FORNO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CALICE

GALIAZ ZO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

C. DEL

ZUL IAN

RUBBI

FONTEG

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SAN

SABION PIO

C. DEL

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

I BALON

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEGLI

Basilica di San Marco

San Giuliano

SAN

LUCATE LLO

CORTE DEL

SALI ZZA DA

CAL LE

DI MEZ ZO

MAR ZAR IA

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PIGN OLI

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INO

T'E

MAZ ZINI

DEI

SALVAD OR

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C IA

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ERA SO

PA Z

CORTE

LARG A

R I VA

IUS VIA G

Sant'Alvise

MARZA RIA

SAN SALVADOR

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

100 m

C.DEI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG MAR ZARI A DEL

Ponte di Rialto

O PELL CAP

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

C.DE

CAR

SAN

L’AR CHIV

ONN

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

Parco "Villa Groggia"

CORTE TORRETTA

San Salvador

Rialto

Alvise

Sant'

alze

CORTE DEL

E C.

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

STU A

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

MAD

TER

AZZ

A N M

RIO

STR

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

I S E

ENTA

Palazzo Ducale

Giardini

DEL

VONI SCHIA

United States Pavilion

O ISEP ONIO SAN 'ANT TERÀ SANT RIO DO E PALU CALL DO E PALU CALL

DAM

ZEN MAGA

A LUC

Russia Pavilion

TTI

FON

DEL

SAN

RO TEAT

ISOLA DI

C. D EL

Japan Pavilion

SANGIANTOFFE

DEL

DEGLI

SAN

E BIAN CALL

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

S. Giorgio

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

ZZA

Bacino Orseolo

LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

MAGGIORE

SAN GIORGIO

IOL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

LE CAL

RIVA

Museo Correr PIA

N G ORG O

N SA

NDE LOCA

TEATRO

FONDAMENTA

CARRO

RIO

io di

RN TA FO

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ORA TA

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di ilicaar Basta M ia Sanla Salute del

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DAM

DEL BAST

FO ND

DEL

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FON

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Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana DEL

icordi

Miser

' VE

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE FO

della

DEL

ERIA

DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

Rio

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

FREZZ

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

GEN

RAVA

VIA

ANE

ICO

DEL

CAL

LIPO

E C

ETA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

LE STR

MIS

ETA

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAL

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

San Moisè

CALLE A DE

CAMPO MANIN

San Felice

SESTIERE DORSODURO

Rio

GLI

CALLE FOSCARI

San Silvestro

CAL LE

Teatro Verde

ROC

AN A

E’

PISCIN

CAL LE

Santa Fosca

GG OR

ALB

SSIN

OLA

RNIN PATE

Le Zitelle

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

LE SAN

LE DEI

ALE

w o o

CAL

Parco delle Rimembranze

CAL

ONI

OGNISANTI RIO TERA’

À D E

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TER

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S.Stae

San

RIA

E TRON

MOIS

CALLE

San Cassiano

CALLE

TIOZ

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

RUGH

C A N N A R E GGI O FO

LA CHIESA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

MUT I

CA’

Ca' Giustinian

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

PISCI

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO APONAL

BOT A

CORTE BAROZZI

XXII MARZO

DRIO

SALUTE

EREMITE

Museo Ebraico AMPO TTO NUOVO

ASSA

MAND

SAN

Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro VA

stinia

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

RIO

E D E

FONDAMENTA

DEI

La Maddalena

E DEL PISTO

E CALL

TEA TR O

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAL LE

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CALL

TERÀ

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CAL

CALLE DEI CORTELLOTTI

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CAMPO

DE L

CARAMPANE CAL LE

VIA

CALL

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

AMP ANE

CALLE SBIA CCA

ER LE P

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

SAN MARCUOLA Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Marcuola

Leonardo CAMPO LEONARDO

D S. LEONAR

CAR

e DEL REMER CAMPIELLO

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

TOLENTIN FON. DEI

MIC

RIA

TERA’

RIO

RIO CALL

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

L’ISOLA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

TER

RIO

L’AG NEL LA

ICO

CERE

MEZ

O E NR

DE LA VIDA

RAMO

VIA

S. Servolo

DOL

DE INC INI

SAN SERVOLO

DAN

CAL

San Giacomo dall'Orio

Palazzo Grimani

DON SAN PER

VIA

IEL

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CA’BCAL ONVLE

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola CAL

LET

DEL

ZIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

SCA

IAN

OND

OSS

ROT

CAN

LAR

BOL

CAL

E LA

LE CAL

Punta della Dogana

FONDAMENTA

MARCO

ETIE

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

zo D

Palaz ITEL

SAVIO

SAN

CAP

IA TI

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

E DEL

CALL

CHIA

ETTI,

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FA R S

CALLE

S.Silvestro

el P

LLE CAZZA

D Rio

RÀ

G PIAV

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CAL

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point for collectors of modern and contemporary art. to hosting events and awards, it focuses on coaching, and showcasing the works of emerging artists.

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Alessandro, ora presente in Campo San Maurizio, si propone alla clientela internazionale con le sue importanti collezioni dei grandi maestri vetrai del Novecento: Venini, Barovier, Seguso, Zecchini...

erimento per collezionisti di arte moderna e anea. Fondata nel 2007, vanta un intenso programma art coaching e ospita manifestazioni e premi.

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WHERE VENICE MAPS - Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2018. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org. Cover Map:Matthaeus Merian (1650). All rights reserved. Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 - Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 - Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com. Printed by Graphicscalve, località Ponte Formello - 24020 Vilminore di Scalve (Bergamo). WHERE® magazine and WHERE® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

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Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 seats): a charming candle-lit dinner that allows guests to take in the sights while sailing in front of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo. • Aboutl'Othe Galeone Veneziano: It can sail all rto del onna Madyear long as it has a rigid covering and heating during the winter; in summer, in case of bad weather it has a protective covering. The Galleon is equipped with a wired audio system with microphones and is accessible to the esuiti differently-abled. There are two galleons ei Gthe din Chiesa fleet, each one with a maximum capacity of 146 ia rdia Abaz ico Miser passengers della for private events, and 84 seats for table service.

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CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ONHOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.citysightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia.Penitenti le ia del MarVenice • New CitySightseeing Visitor Santa Center (inside the main train station Venezia hi e Arc Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": dei Tr Ponte any kind of information on the service and onCana le di Cann aregio the city, maps and exchange vouchers. iobbe G an Open daily (from April to November): S 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .

Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected. com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits.

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom-made according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin').

Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

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CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

VENIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

GRANDE

SANT'ELENA

Rio

SANT'ELENA

Parco delle Rimembranze

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

U I P

CALLE

TERÀ

PALUDO

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

PONTE

RIO

CALLE

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

CORTE

FIANCO

SAN GIACOMO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Giardini

S. Giorgio

ACCADEMIA

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

Lungo

IST

FONDAMENTA

R L C

IB PE GAR

ION

CALLE

OSPIZIO

CALLE

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

IAN

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

FONDAMENTA

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

BALD

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

I S ET

Ponte

San Francesco di Paola

COLTRERA

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

C. LOREDANA

DELLA

ERBE

ENA

CALLE

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

CALLE

CALLE ALBERO

JUNGHANS

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

RAMO DE

CROSERA

SAN GI ACOM

CAMPO

CALLE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

M E N TA

FOND

DE LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

PICCOLO

VIDA

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Punta della Dogana

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CALLE DELA CREA

CALLE

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

PIETRO

FEM

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

SAN

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

TERRÀ

SCUOLA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

C. VOLTO

CATECUMENI

RIO

CALLE

DE CALLE

CROSERA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

PISCINA

PIGNATER

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

CELESTIA

DONA

MARTIN SAN

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

BASTION

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

ZATTERE

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

ANTONIN

S C H I AV

DEI FORNI

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

Arsenale

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

100 m

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

SCUDI

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

DEL

VERONA

DEGLI

CALLE BOSELLO

MINELLI

TERRÀ

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DEGLI

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA

PORTO

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

SCHIAVONI RIVA

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

DEL

FONDAMENTA

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

DEI PRETI

CALLE

GATE

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DRASI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

DE LE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

PISCINA

VERONA

CALLE

FABBRI

CALLE

A N M

SALIZADA

LATERANO

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

SAN

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

MEZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

DEL

Marittim

BARBARIA

SAN

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

San

LARGA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL

SAN

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CALLE

Rio

RIO

CALLE

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

SAN

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

DE LE

ORBI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEI

BEMBO

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

O DEL

CINQUE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

DEI

CALLE

CORNER

Stazione

LARGA

CALLE

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

Museo Correr

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LICINI

MEZO

COCCO

TOSCANA

CALLE

zera

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

CALLE

MADONA

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE

SAN

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

Salute

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Ca' Giustinian

Palazzo Genovese

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

RIO

Teatro Malibran

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

SAN

C.DE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

CASTELLO

CALLE

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

DIETRO

ORESI

CALLE

DOLERA

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

VAPORETTO

FABBRICHE

GALIZZI

STURION

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

C. DEL

SABION

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

SALIZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

SAN LIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA PIO

CALLE

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

Casa di Marco Polo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ALLO

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Silvestro

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

PESCARIA

DEI

DEL

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

CATERINA

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

CALLE

NARISI FOND.

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

CARAMPANE

de r an

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan CALLE

OGNISANTI

DEL

San Felice

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

Abazia della Misericordia D

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

TRON

SAN

MORETTI

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

ALE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

CALLE DE LA LACA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

BARI

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

STRADA

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

Rio

LER

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

ER LE P

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

NOVA

San Girolamo

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

DEL

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

PISCINA

SAN

L’ARCO

CALLE

N G IR

SAN

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

LLO

RUGA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

CALLE

FORNER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

SANT'AGNESE

Parco

BRAGADIN

PISCINA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

INCURABILI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

C A

S. Servolo

N TA

ILEI

VI SC

VIC

AN D'

ZAR

VIA

RIA

ISA

VIA

S TA

T TA

HIE

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MIC

VIA

DOL

O E NR

ICO

V I A L E PA N T O

VIA

DAN

MOCENIGO

ZIO

E C I PA

O PA RT

ORS

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

VIA

VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

AQU

VIA

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

RIV

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA

SANDRO

O SE LV

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

GALLIPOLI

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

Hotel Excelsior Venice

R AT

PIZZAMANO

VIA

O LL

PIE

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

I VI

MA O LM IE NG

CRISTOFORO

VIA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

VIA

SAN

SAN PIGAFETTA

PIGAFETTA

LIDO

I S E

O LL GA

A VI

O VA

I E

VIA

VIA FRANCESCO

PEZZANA

I R E

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VIA M

GIOVANNI ON

PIVIDOR

A VI CO OC AM AL M

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

O NI

RO UE SQ L DE

n ti

DI CA

ic a

IM EN

DE TA

i M e

R io

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA SANTA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

PIETA’

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EL LO

AMEN

TA A R SE

FONDAME

A STR ETA

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

E N N LO O C LE AL C

E G

Russia Pavilion

SAN T'EL

INO

TTO

ERA

ENA

GEN

SS PA

Sant'Elena

F. LL

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

7 PALAZZO DUCALE

2 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

8 THE GHETTO

VI A

SAN

T' EL

EN A

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

PONTE DI RIALTO

10 MURANO

4 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO 5

TEATRO LA FENICE 6 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO

ENA

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

FON DAM

E VIAL E PIAV

see pages 4-5

3 CANAL GRANDE

CAR

C VI

RIA

PIZ

C. D EL

Parco delle Rimembranze

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

Teatro Verde

Japan Pavilion

CAL

ON LL E

MAGGIORE

Top in Town

S MA

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

United States Pavilion

VIALE

EN TA AM

5 A

M CA

CC A

M CA

LA E PO

TT E

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

L EL

ION

BB O

O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

Giardini

ISOLA DI

SA IST

E US

S. Giorgio

R L C

EL CA LL

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CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALL

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

Punta della Dogana

CALLE

I S E

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

SALUT E

F O N D A M E N TA

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

BALD

GELO CALLE DELL’AN

GARI

AM ON

OS E CR

EPPE

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

VA E NUO

CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

PRET E DEI

ESSO

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LAR

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CALL

VAL

RTIRI

I MA

100 m

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALL

CALLE

FO ND

LA TANA

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

SAL

DEI FORNI

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V TA

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TAN A

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CALL E

P IE

VID A

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

A RO SA

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

FOND

E LA RG

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

EMB

ENA

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mo DEI

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DE L CA GN OL ET O

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Verg

ONI

CAL LE

S C H I AV

CA LL E

R I VA D EGLI

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

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E LL CA

CR OSE RA

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

NDAM ENTA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

L’A

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

RS EN

NATER PIG

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

N SA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

ale

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

L’AN ZO LO

enta

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

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CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

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delle

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FONDAMENTA

CALL

CAL PEL LO O CAP

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

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LE MUR

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CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

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LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA O

ALL

C. DE LA MADONETA

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DIS

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DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

LLE

an Moisè

SA LO

DEGLI

LE CAL

N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

Museo Correr

R I VA

N IO ST BA

Palazzo Ducale

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

OLO

7 2

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

ANT ONIN

LL A

L DE

AL CAV

SALIZAD A SAN

E LL CA

DEL

l Palaz

SAN

ZZA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

PIA

ENTA FONDAM

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

Rio De

LE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

IN MAR DE L’OS

LL E

CAL LE

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

ONI CA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

I PRET

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SE ST

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RI BB I FA DE

GA SAN

CAL

CORTE DEL MORION

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ASI DR

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LE LAR

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

DE LE

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER CO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

LLE CA

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

RO VE N SE SA

CAL

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

IO ED M L RE DE

DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

LE CAL

CORTE

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

FA GIUF

IA ER EL SS CA

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

CORTE NUOVA

San Giuliano

INA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

NCE

IZADA SAL

LE DE CAL

San Lorenzo

FRA

CALLE ERIZZO

A SC TA

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

LE SAN

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

O AT USS M

CALLE

FON

CAL

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

L IO

LE CAL

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

LICINI

E DEL CAFE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

DE LE BAN

CALL

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

CORTE

RUBBI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

E’

DE LE TOLE

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

I OR

SAL VAD OR

PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE

BARB ARIA

CORTE

Santa Maria del Pianto

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LL E

CALICE

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

L IZ

DE LE ERBE

LIO

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

SA N

FOR

REM

AD A

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARG A

DE LA FAVA

D. PA LLE

CAMPO

C. DEL

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

R io

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SA LIZ C. DE L GA LIAZZO

PIO

DE L GO

ZZO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

IOL

LLE

ARTIN

CAMPO SAN LIO

GIA

C. DE

G. GA LLI

LE DEL

CALL E

CA LLE

CORTE DEL

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TEL

DEL CO O

C.M

SAN

LE CAS

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

LE VEN

CAL

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador

RD DE

CAL

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

MA RZA RIA

CA LLE

LL CA

CORTE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

CAL

O RN FO L DE

SABION

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VENEZIA

D IS

S.G. GRISOS TOMO

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DR IO CA LLE LE SC

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CA LL

CA LLE GA BR IEL

CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO

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CAN ZIAN

LE COC

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CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAZ ZINI

AN SALVADOR

DEL

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

CAL

SA LIZZ AD A

FON

CAL LE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

C. DEL

I B O

Casa di Marco Polo

9deiFontego Tedeschi

omo to

METO

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

A SAN

RIO TER RÀ

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

AR NN

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

TI ET OR EM LL CA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SAL IZAD

ST EL LA

SAN TI

RAMO

TAR IOL

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CA LL E

APO STO

A FRU

CAL

À BA RB

San Giovanni Grisostomo

te alto

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

AZZ O

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lc e

TER

PIS TO

E VO LT

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i Ap os

CA LL

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de i

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RIO

DE L

CORTE DEL REMER

AD A

CA LL

SA LIZ

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

RI NA

AZE N

R io

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAG

ND RE

BA N DI

. S.A

CAL LE

C.S AN T’A NT ON IO

angelica ana

CA LL

Santi Apostoli

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

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SA A NG LU E LL AM

FERRUCCIO PARRI

Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

FOND .

LA RG A

ALVISOPOLI

VIA

CA LLE

se A ric or dia

VIA

MALAMOCCO

CA ND

FO ND

ISOLA POVEGLIA

R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O

SE NA

S. Servolo

11 BURANO 12 TORCELLO

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