VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
MARCH 2019
W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE
SPOTLIGHT ON BEAUTY On the trail of illustrious Venetian women ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
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Venice March 2019 40
14
SIGHTSEEING
the guide
INSIDER TIPS
24 SHOPPING
The lifestyle department store T Fondaco by DFS offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining.
BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE Bridge of Sighs
34 DINING
HOT DATES
Le Stanze del Vetro
Picture dinner at Arva, a restaurant located in a 17th century building overlooking the Grand Canal, where amongst frescoes by Tiepolo you can sample dishes created by Davide Oldani.
Parco San Giuliano
24
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DON
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COR DEI LE
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CAL
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BAN DI CAL LE
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BAL OTE LE DE
DEL
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DEL CAL LE
CALL
SALIZADA
SA
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RC
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Salute FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
SALUTE
NI
Punta della Dogana
RE
AI
SA
LO
CATECUMENI
CALLE ZUCCHERO
SPIRIT
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AM
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CALLE DEL NAVARO
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CALLE DELA CREA
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CAL LE
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CAL
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Ca' Giustinian
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CAL
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DA PONTE DOGE DEL CALLE
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CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
ORB I DEI
CAL LE
GIU STIN IAN
EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE
INI CAR FOS
Moise
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Palazzo Ducale
MO
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I
TER
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San
RIDOTTO
RIO
CANONI DE LA
O
VONI SCHIA RIVA
ESSO
TREDIC
CALLE
A
RIO
GNESE
ZZA
VALLAR
CALLE
Palazzo Genovese
San Gregorio
FONDAMENTA
SANT'A
CALLE
CA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
RC
Museo Correr
CALLE
MENTA
CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO
MARCO
Basilica di San Marco
MA
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FONDA
CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO
LAR
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TRA GHE TO
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CALL
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SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE
San Gio
DEL
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ASCEN
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Palazz
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DE LE
DEL FORNO
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ALL CAV
ORS
OTTI
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
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FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
Rio Del
DEL
DEI CORTELL
ZUL IAN
C.DEI
CARRO
Rio
DEL TRAGHETTO
CALLE
CA TAS
San Giuliano
CORTE TORRETTA
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
O
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
CALLE DEL BASTION
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
VAPOR
À
O SAT MUS
SAN
Bacino Orseolo
San Moisè
CALLE
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
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CALLE
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CORTE BAROZZI
CALLE
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DEL
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DEL
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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
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LE
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CASTEL
CAMPO
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BALO TE
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DEL
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CALLE
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CALLE
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CALICE
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BRI FAB
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NA
A
CALLE
I
CALL GABRI E
G. GALLIN
ERIA SEL CAS
DEI
NA
PISCI
XXII MARZO
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
Santa Maria del Giglio
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CO
LARGA
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r
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do
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A DE
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SAN
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VERO
CALLE
AC
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Sa
LA
MINELL
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
FRUTAR
DEL
FREZZ
CALLE
GALIAZ ZO
C. DEL
SALVAD OR
ERI
E
CALLE
IZA
n
DE
RTA
Teatro la Fenice
Canal Grande
SAN
BOT
CORTE CORTESE
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL
MAN
Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli
CAMPO SAN LIO
C. DEL
SABION
Sa
C.
CALLE
CAOTO
Santa Maria del Giglio
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
C.
ONA
CALLE
DEI
CAMPIELLO STELLA
N
WID
LE
X
Rio
I
GA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
S.Canciano
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CORTE DEL
LE
C. DE LE COLONNE
CALLE
SSIN
ASSA TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
LAR
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CANZIAN A SAN
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
PIO
MARZA RIA
ZEN MAGA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
NDE LOCA
OLA MAND
A LUC SAN
CALLE
VER
CALLE
LE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
MAR ZARI A DEL
DEL
LE CAL
San Fantin
R
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
FONTEG
San Salvador
LA
LL
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
SALIZA
MAZ ZINI
CORTE
MARCO
ETIE
CAL
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
SAL
BO BEM
SAN
RO TEAT LE CAL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN
RNIN PATE
LARG A
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO BON CAR
A
CA
RAMO
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Rialto
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CALLE
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SI
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DE
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Chiesa dei Gesuiti
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LE
LE
RE
CALL
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
San Giovanni Grisostomo
DE
ON
ORE
ANG
DEI
PAR
DI
E
ZEN
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
N
ttim a
ULI
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
RIO
ari
ENTA
CALL
A
STU
eM
CATEN
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
DAM
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
DEL
TI OCA
MAN
DEL
CHIES
DEL FORNO
VE
RINA
SALIZAD
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
San Maurizio
CALLE
NO
REA
RUG
LE
E CALL
À
AVV
BOT EGH E
SALIZADA
VA
DEI
CAL
TEA TR O
CALL
LE
DELLA
UZZI
PRI
CAL LE
TER
CAL
CALLE
CAPP
ENT A
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
Palazzo Grimani
LE
GO
. S.AND
DAM
San Silvestro
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
E
NO
San Beneto San Luca
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
GNES
CATE
FOND.
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
RIO
NT'A
FOND
Santa Sofia
DA
LE
DEL
E CALL
C.SA
NANI
RA
ZI
ion
TE
CALLE
TA
FON
FON
CAL
GALIZ
Ca
EN
ENTA
SAN
CAL
NO RAVA
DEL
DEI
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AM
CAL
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
ETA
de ran
SI
CAMPO PISANI
DAM
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
A
cin
ND
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
RUGH
Santo Stefano
San Vidal
ST
ZEL
LE
FON
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STU A
DON
DEI LAVRANE
LA
MUT I
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
IN
N
CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I
CAL
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FISOLA
LARGA
CA’
C.
CALLE
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
DEL
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
ZATTER
CHIESA
. NARI
Palazzo Loredan
MENTA
DELLA
DE
BOT A
SAN
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
CALLE
FONDA
CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
San Trovaso
OL
ANI GRIM
OZZE CARR
AP
E CALL
LE
CHI TODES
E DE CALL
FOND
CRO SER A
S. Samuele
Giudecca Hilton
San Gerardo
MI
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
E UEL SAM
IER
Giudecca Hilton
BIAGIO
RA
Sant’Aponal
DE L
FAL
FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
SACCA
S.
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
SAN
LA
FORNO
DA IZA SAL
C. DEI
LON
ND
DEL
CA’
VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE
Ca' Rezzonico
TR
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
LE SAMUE
TE
CAL LE DE
AMP ANE
RIN PEST
PON
TA
CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE
SERA
E AL
CAR
Palazzo Fortuny
DI SAN MARCO
A S. PISCIN
CAL LE RAMO
al G
SESTIERE
S. Toma' SX
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
LE
Sant'Angelo
LE
LINI
' VE
ERA
Palazzo Giustinian Persico
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
BON
DE
E DOL
Can
San Tomà
ENTA
EN
S.Silvestro
CAL
DAM
CAL LE
CARAMPANE À
LE CAL
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
CALLE BERNARDO
FON
AM
CAMPO APONAL
Ca' Rezzonico
I
ND
DON SAN PER
E CRO
SANT
TER
E DEL CALL
OGNI
RIO
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
O
. DE
TER
L’AG NEL LA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CALL
FOND
ZAT
DE
Accademia
DE OGNISAN
NTA
C.
CORTE DEL TEATRO
HETT
S. Basilio
DE INC INI
SCA
TRAG
ENTA
INI
Abazia Rdella Misericordia D
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
CA’BCAL ONVLE
DEL LET
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
TI
AME
ZI
CAMPO SAN POLO
A
San Barnaba
DEI TIOZ
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO DEI FRARI
O
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
LE
E DEL
O
IC
DE
Santa Fosca
SAN
C.
ER
IA
FO
CAL
CALL
L’ASE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
TA
CALL
SER
EN
IS
C.
CRO
AM
M
LA
LE
TA
DE
CAL
EN
CA
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
DEI PUTI
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
FONDAM
FOD
NT AR
rto
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I
NA
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE LA
E DE
Chiesa di Ognissanti
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
OR
BOL
DORSODURO
IO
CO
GO RTE OPO SOT
C.
CALLE
IAN BESAG
TA
a de
CAL LE
RAMO
PRET
ALE
ND
CALLE
E DEI
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE
AST DA SAN
NT
DO
nde Canal Gra
E
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZ
SEB
SALIZA
EN
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San Felice
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CAL
TTO
CALL
FOMO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
SAN
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
TE
TOMÀ
TTO
N
DD
SAN POLO
GHE
Car
Santa Maria dei Carmini
OCHE
E
TRA
del
A ENT
DORSODURO
min
I
Rio
DAM
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
IAT
L
ER
ORE
R
FON
CALLE SAN BASILIO
BR
DE
E ZANE
DEL
TA
San Sebastiano
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
TALO
FO
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
O
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
Basilica dei Frari
TINT
E RENIE
DEL
AM
do
ll'O
AM
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
AL
CAMPO SAN STIN
LE
EN
TERÀ
SAN
LE
D
S.Stae
CAL
NI
AM
RIO
CAL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
C. DE
DIA
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
I
N
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
CALL
ND
Ma
C.
ESI
RIO TERA’
AR
DON
ND
E LE
CALL
CALL
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
GU
LAR
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
C.
MEZ
E
San Rocco
Mu
CANAL RIO TERA’
LLE
LE
IA
CIM
N
le
PAN
SSA
CAL
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
DAR O
de
San Pantalon
RO
O
Angelo Raffaele
LA TT
N
E TRON
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
OCH
C.VE
LA
FON
RAM
CIM
NUOVO
I
NTA
RIELO
LORENZ
’
CALLE ORSETTI
O NZAT
DE
tini
USE
ME
FO
C. SAN
LE
TI
CALLE DELL'OLIO
CAL
A SAN
O
FO
lla
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALL
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
CALLE
i
RE
OLO
SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CAL
TA
DE
TOR
BASEG
RIO
LE
TIN
DA
DE L’OGIO
L' ARZE
A A MART SANT
NIC
CALLE CASE NUOVE
CALLE
TA DE
TA
OT
EN
MA
SA
L’ISOLA
CAL
A
CALL
CALLE
MENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
CA
AMEN
AMEN
MATTA DI CA’
LAC
ete
RAG
FOND
FOND
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AM
DE
DE LA VIDA
DEL
I
DEI FONTEGH
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LA
gh
IZAD
Rio dei Tolen
FONDA
RAMO
LE
CERER
DE
LA
LA
E C AN
La Maddalena
Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CAL
I
DEI
LE
DE
O SAL
o de
LE CAL
NE
MENTA
FON
FONDA
ERI CALLE
L
TERA’
CALLE CAZZA
I
EO
MADON
LA
C.
ne
OTT
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE SAVIO
ZO
LE
DE
NA
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
RUGA BELA
CALLE DE LA LACA
ESI
Ma
CAL
A CALLE
CA
E
BAR
SIM
URATI
LA
TA PROC
E
RT
CAL
PAZ CAM
LE
À D E
S.Marcuola
RUGA VECCHIA
RZ
TER
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
A
O
ENT A MIN
DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE
San Marcuola
I
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
DEI
N
TA RIZZI
CAZZIO
AMEN
BAR
TA
GA
SA LUN
Rio
Del
en
MENTA
AMEN
LA
DE
RAM
DAM
gaz
FONDA
FOND
PO
DEI AMAI
San Nicola da Tolentino
Rio
IERI
FOND
A OV
PENS
CO
ND
VE
CAM
CALLE
IO
FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL
R
RIO
DEL REMER
BIAS
DI
E DEL PISTO
EONARDO
CAMPIELLO
LAR
NU CH
DEI
A
AS
o
TERÀ
E NUO
A RIVA
LIS
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WELCOME TO ITALY ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher ® will host a series of special events. The full program Where of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!
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Top in town 2
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its
name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a
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MORE ON PAGE 41 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10 LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9
THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 14 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5
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All about the gondola
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Why are gondolas black? Between the 15th and 16th centuries, during the height of the Serenissima’s splendour, noblemen used to decorate their gondolas with lavish ornamentation. In an attempt to abolish the competition between noble families, the Senate passed a law decreeing that all gondolas must be standardized and painted black.
a gondola - oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back.
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Gondolas have a flat bottom that allows them to navigate easily in shallow waters.
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It’s not easy to become a professional gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam.
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Traditionally, only men were allowed to be gondoliers. The first female gondolier – or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the 24 year old daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license.
Until just a few decades ago, a small cabin called a felze was mounted in the middle of the gondola. It had a sliding door and windows and was even equipped with a heater in winter. It was used to protect passengers from the cold and damp and… lovers from prying eyes. Gondolas are asymmetrical. The left side is 24cm longer than the right side. This asymmetry helps counterbalance the weight of the gondolier who stands at the back. It also compensates for the tendency of the boat to sway left as the gondolier continually rows on the right.
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Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high.
−The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized oarlock, is made of walnut. −Eight kinds of different wood are used to build
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Emilio Ceccato, a historic shop founded in 1902 at the foot of the Rialto Bridge, is a reference point for the official clothing and accessories worn by Venetian gondoliers. emilioceccato.com
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The logo on the gondolier’s uniform features St. Mark as the winged lion holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two traditional iron gondola prow ornaments.
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MARCH
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA
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MARCH EXHIBITION
23 9
A CENTURY OF LIGHTS SHINES IN THE LAGOON
Canaletto and Giambattista Tiepolo are the stars of the blockbuster exhibition at Palazzo Ducale dedicated to the 18th century in Venice; a century renowned for its extraordinary and innovative artistic activity. The works of both masters will be showcased alongside those of other illustrious artists including Pietro Longhi, Francesco Guardi, Giambattista Piranesi, Giandomenico Tiepolo and Antonio Canova. The exhibition will also pay tribute to the best of 18th-century Venetian decorative arts with a display of beautiful glass art, ceramics and gold jewelry.
FEBRUARY
JUNE
Canaletto and Venice Palazzo Ducale, Appartamento del Doge. Piazza San Marco, 1 palazzoducale.visitmuve.it ANTONIO CANAL (CANALETTO), ”IL CANAL GRANDE DA PALAZZO BALBI A RIALTO“ CA’ REZZONICO, MUSEO DEL SETTECENTO VENEZIANO (VENICE)
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES GLASS DESIGN
EXHIBITION
25 28 MARCH
JULY
A TRIBUTE TO AN ARTISTGLASS MAKER ▼ This must-see exhibition is dedicated to Maurice Marinot, the renowned French artist who laid the foundations for contemporary glass design, based on original, experimental techniques. The exhibition features over 200 works on loan from prestigious museums: from his first creations in enamel, to the hand-blown pieces that he created and modeled with remarkable skill and creativity.
24 15 MARCH
DECEMBER
A COLLECTIVE EXHIBITION AT PUNTA DELLA DOGANA
Maurice Marinot. Glass, 1911-1934 Le Stanze del Vetro. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore www.lestanzedelvetro.org - www.cini.it
▲ ‘Luogo e Segni’ (‘Place and Signs’), takes its name from a painting by Carol Rama included in the exhibition, and brings together over 100 works by thirty artists who have established a particular relationship with their urban, social, political, historic and intellectual context. The artists’ works, presented for the first time at Punta della Dogana, interact with several works that were formerly hosted at important exhibitions at this Venetian venue. In addition the exhibit will include a rich program of events, performances and meetings open to the public.
OPERA
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A DRAMA OF JEALOUSY
► Giuseppe Verdi’s fondness for Shakespeare is apparent in Otello, one of MARCH APRIL his best-known works. In this particular rendition, Verdi, with Italian composer and librettist Arrigo Boito, left out the first act of the Shakespearian drama preferring a more concise interpretation. This dark tragedy is based on misunderstandings, betrayal and jealousy, and is set on the Island of Cyprus at the end of the 15th century. The opera is conducted by Maestro Myung-Whun Chung. Supertitles in Italian and English.
Giuseppe Verdi, Otello. Teatro La Fenice, San Marco 4387 www.teatrolafenice.it
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PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA
Place and Signs. Punta della Dogana. Dorsoduro, 2. www.palazzograssi.it
MARCH
15 MARCH
NOTES IN THE LAGOON The “Squero” on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, is an old workshop where boats were manufactured and repaired. It is now a modern auditorium dedicated to chamber music. The list of concerts scheduled on the venue’s March program include a collaboration with the Associazione Chamber Music, featuring Prague’s talented ‘Josef Suk Piano Quartet’, with music by Josef Suk and Robert Schumann. The concert starts at 6pm, the perfect time to admire the sunset from the venue’s panoramic window overlooking the Lagoon. Associazione Chamber Music - Josef Suk Piano Quartet Auditorium “Lo Squero”, Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore www.cini.it/en/auditorium-losquero
ART COLLECTION FROM
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FEBRUARY
20TH CENTURY ITALIAN MASTERPIECES ▼ An extraordinary nucleus of works originating from important collections is currently on show at the International Gallery of Modern Art. The exhibition features 32 works by several of Italy’s most illustrious 20th century artists including Massimo Campigli, Carlo Carrà, Giacomo Manzù, Ottone Rosai, Scipione and Mario Sironi. They are showcased alongside the museum’s rich permanent collection that is housed in the rooms of Ca’ Pesaro, a masterpiece of civil Baroque-Venetian architecture.
A collection of modern Italian art Ca’ Pesaro - Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna. Santa Croce, 2076 capesaro.visitmuve.it
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it
© MICHELE CROSERA
CLASSICAL MUSIC
OPERA 22, 26, 30 March and 4, 7 April OTELLO by Giuseppe Verdi English surtitles Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Francesco Micheli, director Edoardo Sanchi, sets Silvia Aymonino, costumes Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master 27, 28, 29, 31 March and 2, 3, 5, 6 April LA TRAVIATA by Giuseppe Verdi English surtitles Francesco Lanzillotta, Marco Paladin, conductors Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets & costumes Philippe Girardeau, coreography Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master CONCERTS 9, 10 March MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG CONDUCTOR Music by Gustav Mahler (Symphony No. 2 in C minor, ‘Resurrection’) Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Sara Mingardo, alto CHAMBER MUSIC - MUSIKÁMERA 12, 13 March at Sale Apollinee Music by Franz Schubert and Robert Schumann Andrea Lucchesini, piano The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES PHOTOGRAPHY
21 18 MARCH
AUGUST
THE MAFIA THROUGH A LENS ► This large retrospective dedicated to Letizia Battaglia, one of Italy’s most remarkable female photographers, traces her career with 200 images, some famous, others less well known. Her photographs offer an unflinching pictorial tapestry of the bloody years of Sicily’s Mafia wars, through black and white images loaded with contrasts. Divided by themes, the exhibition explores the life of the Island’s poor, revolts in the street, politics, life, death and love.
Letizia Battaglia. Photography as a Life Choice. Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 - Giudecca, Venezia www.treoci.org
ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE APRIL Venice Night Trail (13 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. MAY Biennale Arte 2019 (11 May-24 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 58th International Art Exhibition, titled ‘May You Live In Interesting Times’ is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff, currently the director of the Hayward Gallery in London. JUNE Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (1-2 June) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga (9 June) > 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
Feast of San Piero de Casteo (26-30 June) JULY Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (20-21 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks.
NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice Concert Season Opening (beginning of November) Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November)
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER Biennale Cinema 2019 - International Film Festival (28 August-7 September) > 76th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia.
Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day with a temporary bridge crossing over the Grand Canal set up. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (16-17 December) > The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists.
SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (1 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions.
JANUARY 2020 New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January 2020) >17th edition of the traditional New Year’s Concert.
The Venice Glass Week (7-15 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano. OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (17-26 October)
Regata delle Befane (6 January 2020) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice.
Venice Marathon (27 October)
FEBRUARY 2020 Carnival of Venice (15-25 February2020) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.
SAN MARCO, VENEZIA Pal a zzo Regina Vittoria WOMAN R amo dei Fuseri 1810 Tel. +39 041 2410990 MAN R amo dei Fuseri 1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332 HOME Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996 FA SHION | HOME | LIFEST YLE
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Venice Half woman, half fish “
Venice, half woman, half fish, is a siren dissolving into a marsh of the Adriatic
“
– Jean Cocteau –
We’ve decided to take advantage of the anniversary of 8 March to remember all the women – either Venetian by birth or adoption – who made the Serenissima famous, with a tour of the places that they loved. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI
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‘I
nternational Women’s Day’ is celebrated worldwide on 8 March. The custom of acknowledging the ‘fairer sex’ dates back to 1909, when the Socialist Party of America designated the day in honour of the garment workers’ strike in New York, where women protested against the appalling working conditions. A year later, meetings and rallies were organized in various European countries to ask for equality in the workplace and the right to vote. The official consecration of 8 March as a national holiday was due to a protest by Russian women who organized a rally on 8 March 1917 to protest against World War I and the Czar’s government. However, until
IN LOVE WITH ART One of the most important collectors of 20th-century contemporary art, Peggy Guggenheim was so enamoured with Venice that she decided to live and showcase her collection at Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on the Grand Canal, where she created the world’s most unique house museum.
A BIT OF HISTORY We begin our tour and follow in the footsteps of high-class courtesan Veronica Franco who lived in Venice during the second half of the 16th century. Veronica became a famous courtesan thanks to important friendships with men of wealth and stature. She even had a relationship with King Henry III of France and became a member of an important cultural circle.
© SIMEONN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
LANDMARKS
the beginning of the Seventies, ‘Women’s Day’ was celebrated exclusively in countries of the former Soviet Union and in China. In 1975, the United Nations officially designated 8 March as ‘International Women’s Day’, inviting other countries throughout the world to ‘celebrate’ the event. Let’s take advantage of this anniversary to remember the women who made Venice famous, with a historic tour of the places that they loved.
THE COURTESANS OF THE SERENISSIMA More than in any other cities, the role played by women in Venetian culture was key. In fact, whether rich or poor, Venetian women always managed to pursue their objectives, and capitalize on their intellectual abilities.
Jacopo Tintoretto painted a beautiful portrait of her (currently hosted in the Prado Museum in Madrid). Around 1580, together with several other Venetian women, Franco founded a shelter for ‘fallen women’ who wanted to change their lives. This shelter, which now houses the Faculty of Architecture, was located in the vicinity of the Church of Nicolò da Tolentino, in the sestiere of Santa Croce, not far from Piazzale Roma.
DID YOU KNOW? At the time of the Republic, prostitutes lived in various areas scattered across the city. However, during the 15th century they began living in a restricted area known as the ‘Carampane’ in the sestiere of San Polo. This name derives from the Ca’ Rampani, the houses owned by the Rampani family where the courtesans used to stay. The area became a red light district, governed by specific rules and regulations. The area is home to the Ponte de le Tette (Bridge of Tits), a bridge whose unusual name has always been greeted with curiosity, and made people laugh. The reason for its name comes from the prostitutes, who often leaned out of the windows to display their ‘merchandise’. In the 18th century, new laws, designed to increase tourism in the city, were issued. These allowed young, beautiful courtesans to exercise
Elena Cornaro
their trade wherever they wished, while the older courtesans were obliged to remain in the Carampane. As a result, today, in colloquial Italian, the word ‘carampana’ is used to describe an old, slovenly woman.
INTELLECTUALS AND ARTISTS IN THE LAGOON A BIT OF HISTORY As mentioned above, Venetian women were often cultured and talented. However, not a single woman in the world held a university degree until the middle of the 1600s. The first woman to obtain a degree was Venetian-born Elena Cornaro. The daughter of a nobleman, who believed in encouraging education, she became an oblate in the Benedictine Order at the age of nineteen, and began to pursue her studies. When her father petitioned the University of Padua to grant his daughter a degree in theology, Cardinal Barbarigo refused to grant her a degree w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15
PHOTO © MATTEO DE FINA
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Fondazione Giorgio Cini
because she was a woman. In 1678, aged 32, she finally obtained a degree in philosophy but, because she was a woman, she was not allowed to teach this subject.
LANDMARKS If you happen to find yourself strolling through Calle Carboni, near the Rialto Bridge, you’ll notice a plaque dedicated to Elena Cornaro, set in the wall of Ca’ Farsetti, the current Municipality of Venice. The plaque can be found near a gondola station where you can embark on a ferry that will whisk you across the Grand Canal to San Silvestro on the other side, in just a few minutes.
A BIT OF HISTORY Another Venetian woman who was strongly encouraged by her family to pursue her vocation was Rosalba Carriera. Born in 1675, Rosalba was a portrait painter and musician, who was sought
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Veronica Franco
after by all the reigning houses of that time. She soon gained a reputation for the delicacy of her miniatures. She travelled widely and was welcomed at numerous courts throughout Europe, where she was held in high regard. She even received a commission from the King of France, Louis XV, to paint portraits.
LANDMARKS Today, Rosalba Carriera is best known for her self-portraits, which demonstrate her study of precise detailing, each created to show the nuances of her subject's personality. Several of her works are housed in the Museum of 18th century Venice, headquartered at the monumental Palazzo Rezzonico where, amidst precious furnishing and memorabilia of the era, you can also admire a selection of 18th century Venetian paintings, sculptures and frescoes created, among others, by Giambattista Tiepolo and Canaletto (carezzonico. visitmuve.it).
VENETIAN BY ADOPTION Though they weren’t born in Venice, two famous women, key figures respectively in the world of theatre and art, chose the Lagoon city as their elective domicile.
A BIT OF HISTORY Though born in Vigevano near Milan, Eleonora Duse, one of Italy’s most famous 19th century actresses, often said that she felt Venetian in spirit, a fact that was probably attributable to her father who was a native of Chioggia, a small town located just a few kilometers from the Serenissima. Her success was due, above all, to her on-stage naturalness and individuality, in stark contrast with the theatrical emotionalism of 19th century theatre.
PAST AND PRESENT ‘La Divina’, as she was nicknamed by her great love, poet Gabriele d'Annunzio, lived on the top floor of Palazzo Barbaro Wolkoff, on the Grand Canal. This tall, narrow building, initially built according to the canons of Veneto/ Byzantine architecture, was later restructured with the addition of Gothic elements during the 15th century. Unfortunately the building is not open to the public but if you want to follow in the footsteps of ‘La Divina’ just hop on vaporetto line 2 and disembark on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. In addition to housing treasures of inestimable artistic and architectural value, the monumental complex of the former Benedictine monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore has been the headquarters of the Giorgio Cini Foundation since 1951. The Foundation houses the Duse Archives, the largest collection of documents about
the life and art of the greatest actress in the world. In order to make the precious legacy housed in the Duse Archives accessible to the public, a new permanent space known as ‘Eleonora Duse’s Room’ has been set up inside the Foundation. This space is open to the public and features a rotational display of original materials from the archives. These are exhibited in a series of temporary exhibitions aimed at offering insight into one or more aspects of the actress’s life. The Room can be visited subject to reservation (www.cini.it). Although Eleonora Duse was buried in the Veneto city of Asolo, where she lived during the last years of her life, Gabriele d’Annunzio wrote the epitaph “The youngest daughter of San Marco” on her tombstone, as proof of the emotion that linked the actress to Venice.
A BIT OF HISTORY Famous art collector Peggy Guggenheim was also captivated by the allure of the Serenissima. At the end of World War II, after purchasing Palazzo Venier dei Leoni in 1949, she settled permanently in the Lagoon city. Located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro, overlooking the Grand Canal, it houses the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, one of the most important Italian museums dedicated to early 20th century European and American art (www.guggenheim-venice.it). Born in New York in 1898 to a very affluent family, Peggy began frequenting important salons from a
The womanlike mask Among Venice’s famous women, it is impossible to forget Colombina, one of the most notable female figures of the Commedia dell’Arte and virtually the only version of a female Venetian mask. Colombina personifies the typical pretty maidservant, mischievous and seductive. Although there are numerous variations of her costume, she does not usually wear a mask, but a tight bodice and a flared skirt with blue ruffles and an apron. Her head is covered with a ‘crestina’, a typical maidservant’s cap.
young age. It was here that she met numerous intellectuals of the era including Laurence Vail who became her husband. In 1921, Peggy and Laurence travelled to Europe, where they joined the American expatriate bohemian set in Paris, becoming acquainted with many of the leading figures of the avant-garde movement including Constantin Brancusi, Marcel Duchamp and Samuel Beckett. In 1938, Peggy opened an art gallery in London, which marked the beginning of a career that would influence the course of post-war art significantly. In July of 1941, she left Nazi-occupied France for New York with her children and ex-husband. She returned to Europe in 1948 when her collection was exhibited for the first time at the Venice Art Biennale.
and modernity to post-war Venice. Enraptured by the Bourgeois Venetian world of the era, she charmed everyone she met with her eccentricity and the parties that she held at Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, which were attended by gallerists, artists, politicians and VIPs of the time. During the 30 years that she lived in the Lagoon, Peggy continued to collect and support artists and was awarded honorary citizenship by the city of Venice in 1962. On her death in 1972, her ashes were buried in a corner of the garden of the villa – now the Peggy Guggenheim Collection – where Peggy had buried her numerous, dearly loved dogs (www.guggenheim-venice.it).
LANDMARKS Peggy never left the city, bringing a breath of fresh air, non-conformity
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni - Peggy Guggenheim Collection PHOTO © SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.
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GIFT
NARDI
It’s impossible to leave Venice without a souvenir! Indulge your inner diva with a luxury keepsake like a piece of jewelry from Nardi, a family-run business renowned for its signature high-class jewelry. Crafted in white and rose gold with diamonds, this stunning ‘Veneziani’ necklace is the perfect way to take a slice of Venice home with you. www.nardi-venezia.com
GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
TESSITURA BEVILACQUA
Handcrafted in Italy by the historic weaver, whose origins date back to 1499, this cushion with zipper closure is lined and covered with a sophisticated velvet called ‘Fresie’. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com
®
► THE MERCHANT OF VENICE The new skincare line by The Merchant of Venice contains pure 24 carat micronized gold and comprises a day cream, night cream, eye cream and serum, all designed to erase the signs of ageing and keep the skin beautiful. www.themerchantofvenice.com ALBERTO SARRIA MASKS
Free your inner butterfly with ‘Silver Butterfly’, a handcrafted Venetian mask made from papier-mâché, stucco, silver leaf and beeswax. Thanks to its elegant black ribbon it can be easily fastened without either pulling your hair or spoiling your hairdo. www.masksvenice.com GUCCI
SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER
Shaped like boats with the wind in their sails, these yellow gold cufflinks are set with 102 diamonds for a total of over 0.70 carats. A part of the ‘Vela’ collection, they are inspired by the sea and the white, sandy beaches of Sardinia. www.salvadori-venezia.com 18 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
Crafted in white leather, this shoulder bag features brass hardware and the iconic Gucci logo in a vintage 80s version. Ideal for all occasions, this model, boasting an urban streetwear feel, is inspired by the bags carried by mailmen. www.gucci.com
A perfect mix of traditional and digital communication for tourists. MILAN CITY MAP
2019
Milano & leonardo By Welcome to Italia
AUDIOGUIDA
MILANO & LEONARDO
ITALIANO INGLESE SPAGNOLO FRANCESE RUSSO CINESE
MAP
www.m-app.it
MULTILINGUAL APP
info@m-app.it
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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.
Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,
which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.
A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).
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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s
Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico
Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels, the Teatro Olimpico is included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Piazza delle Erbe in Verona was the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Verona, Piazza delle Erbe
University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.
TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com
Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in
December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 23
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The luxury heart of Venice
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panning 7,000 square meters, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the very first DFS retail space in Europe, features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, food and wines, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1222, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department
store, renovated by the renowned architect Rem Koolhaas, offers a world of fashion, luxury and craftsmanship and hosts a rich program of cultural events and art exhibitions. The ground floor is dedicated to the Venetian and national excellences and the courtyard is home to the café/restaurant AMO by Alajmo, embodying the real soul of Venice. And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking!
PHOTOS © MATTEO DE FINA @ DFS
The lifestyle department store T Fondaco by DFS offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining.
Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, this is ‘the’ go-to address for a one-stop shopping experience.
24 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
>> T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
The
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAXFREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.
Francis Model
Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickknacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; TuesSat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).
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CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Unique glass factory Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art: lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custom-made items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations. Fondamenta Navagero, 76. Murano. T: 041 739922- 5275284. info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4
DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5
Minimalist lines, precious quilted nappa with an enamelled logo and fashion-forward details make this GIORGIO ARMANI shopper a statement accessory.
PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5
BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3
FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4
ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5
BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4
GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4
ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4
BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5
GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5
SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5
www.bulgari.com. San Marco, BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com. Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5
SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5
MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5
TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5
MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5
VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
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Surrounding a Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, B ATA G I A AR VA IS Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti customer service, wheelchair accessible, free central courtyard, the store offers the best in made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra CORTE NOVA leading Italian and international fashion brands, 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Santi charge), dogsApostoli admitted to the outlet village accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI (admission in stores depending LE OZ G A B F4 DELLA CASON on the store Cà d'Oro spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich line 2 (Rialto stop). Map R IE ZI LI policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily Damiani N curated cultural program on the 4th floor and SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M LE Luterana ID S C UO 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco W A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, LE E the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In LL CA Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and CAMPO partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will S.MARIA NOVA CAMPO DELLA CAL T: 0421 5741. Off Map innovative L E technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette San alsoCassiano offer an instant detax at the cash desk when LAR PESCARIA GA N ZI A N G. G N CA A L L designed to highlight the brilliance d’illusione’ setting DA SA the payment is made by credit card, the first IN A S A LI ZA Santa Maria Palmanova Outlet Village RIO CAMPO of its stones. www.damiani.com. Basilica San Marco, 1320 DE of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. dei SAN CASSAN dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA Just one hour from Venice, PalmanovaI MOutlet IR (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041Santi 2770661.Giovanni Vaporetto line 2e(San BECARIE San offers Giovanni Paolo AC www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei CA C A LL O Village 90 stores with the trendiest brands LL E LI CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED Marco-Vallaresso FO R stop). Map F4 Grisostomo CA E C Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ L E ED discounted by up to 70% and open all year MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ CAS EL TEL TI LI DELLA A BO line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3 BELLA VIENNA TA around: Adidas-Reebok,Teatro Aldo Bruè,Malibran Baldinini, Nardi Venezia E PAOLO CAMPO CA LL E DE SAN GIACOMETO LE ER Chiesa Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, BE A combination of a love of precious stones and a dell’Ospe C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and CARAMPANE SA L passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s NS LO BA RB AR ON di Rialtomany others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In IA DE LE DE I TO LE jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, CA di Outlet Village RA addition to shopping,Casa Palmanova MP Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet O CAMPO the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO makes you discover a land full of history and With DEL more restaurants, SOL than 150 stores, cafés andNUOVO Fontego daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. dei the Tedeschi taste: picturesque hills of the Collio region, visitors can find their O favourite labels with price Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line AN V A CA C. D LR L L Sant’Aponal E the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, ED EL F reductions ofETup to 70%, all year round, and C .M EL AD 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5 ONT A RT P IO EGO MB GH IN E Ponte O N RU GO the historical sites further discounts at the annual summer and winter close to the Karst plateau with D. P SA CAL N G FO LE G ALL SA CAMPO di Rialto CORTE E IA CAMPO N IOVNDA Z CORTE ZO AN ME DO sales. 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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass andLA GRAZIA ISOLA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4
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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade,ISOLA printed or recycled SANfabrics CLEMENTE shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
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San Francesco di Paola
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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
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San Martino
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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
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San Giovanni Battista in Bragora S C H I AV
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, andAcharacters from the GIU D Eelves CC ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, Santissimo Redentore the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santa Croce among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Hundertwasser' Garden Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3
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San Giorgio dei Greci
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SCO
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CALLE SAN LORENZO
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Spirito Santo
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San Lorenzo
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Rio San Lorenzo
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San Giovanni Novo
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CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
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Accademia
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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
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San Moisè
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Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques San Vidal Palazzo Corner DURO and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offersCa' Giustinian della Ca’Granda Ponte Pisani an array ofdell'Accademia 'unique' locationsPalazzo where you ssanti Gritti Gallerie Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo can indulge in an authentic Genovese Collezione Peggy shopping San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Gregorio Santa Maria della Salute and accessories that you'll be hard put to Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese find elsewhere. While strolling through its Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latterSpirito endows this city with Santo its characteristic vibrancy… CAL
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Santo Stefano
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CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O
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San Salvador
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Teatro Carlo Goldoni
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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
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Norma's
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CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
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Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
San Beneto San Luca
C.
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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
CA C ALLL LE E
Palazzo Fortuny
SESTIERE
RAMO
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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
Palazzo Grimani
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San Giovanni Grisostomo
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
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Sant'Angelo
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Palazzo Giustinian Persico
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Palazzo Querini-Dubois
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CAMPO SAN PANTALON
Sant’Aponal
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO DEI FRARI
L
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NE NE
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CAMPO SAN POLO
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San Pantalon
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LL
CALL
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Alberto Sarrias Masks
L’A AG GN NE ELL LA
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DE
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I
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R
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CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
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Basilica dei Frari
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San Cassiano
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Santa Sofia
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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
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ADVERTORIAL
Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5 Nicolao Atelier An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that
comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Only Sat 3-10 February and Sun 4-11 February open 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. www.nicolao.com. Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051. Map E2 Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268 Map E4
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). www.themerchantofvenice.com. T: 041 2960559. Map F4
OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim.
OCCHIALI D’AUTORE
www.otticamantovani.it San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427.
ALBERTO SARRIA MASKS Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.
NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality Made in Italy materials. www.teodamar.com San Marco, 2995-2996 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 345 0133552. More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29
SHOPPING Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri
Glass art in Murano Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request. Fondamenta Navagero, 50. Murano. T: 041 739329. info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com
30 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3
Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the
Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4
Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com
STROLLING THROUGH BURANO In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.
With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive
for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187).
GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.
LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.
Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO
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Teatro Malibran
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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.
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home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.
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As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp
FONDAMENTA
Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.
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FUN, FOOD AND DESIGNER LABELS FOR UP TO 70% LESS. . . IT CAN ONLY BE NOVENTA DI PIAVE DESIGNER OUTLET
shop, eat, recharge, repeat Shop until you drop in the beautiful surroundings of Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet. Inspired by Venetian palazzos, this is shopping in style. Here you’ll find everything from must-have trend essentials to key designer pieces for spring, always for up to 70% less.
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At Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet you’ll find hundreds of incredible designer labels. From classic coats to statement shoes, browse soughtafter designer brands like Armani, Coach and Versace for less. With new collections arriving all the time, we’ve got styles for everyone.
recharge
Relaxing is easy at Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet. Stay connected and share your purchases thanks to free wi-fi. Smartphone run out of battery? No problem, get back up to speed at one of our complimentary charging points, and if you’ve got the kids with you they can let off steam in our play area.
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The centre is home to much more than fashion brands: discover irresistible jewellery, accessories and beauty from brands like L’Occitane en Provence, Samsonite and Swarovski.
tax free shopping Non-EU residents can enjoy a tax refund on items purchased in our centre. Visit our onsite tax refund office for more information.
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fashion passport Present this page at Guest Services and claim your Fashion Passport giving you an additional 10% off outlet prices. getting here We’re just 40 minutes from Venice. Take advantage of our convenient daily shuttle bus services from Venice, Mestre and Marghera. We also have free parking. Go online to plan your journey.
mcarthurglen.it/noventadipiave
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ABOVE RIGHT: 1. GUESS, 2. IXOS, 3. FENDI (OUTLY) LEFT: 4. REBEL QUEEN BY LIU•JO, 5. COCCINELLE, 6. JOSEPH (CORSO ROMA)
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Pull up a chair at one of our many cafés or restaurants. Start the day with a pastry and your favourite coffee, enjoy a light bite or indulge in a three course meal. From pasta to burgers, there’s always something tempting on the menu.
DINING
Dining in history Picture dinner at Arva, a restaurant located in a 17th century building overlooking the Grand Canal, where amongst frescoes by Tiepolo you can sample dishes created by Davide Oldani. By Chiara Zaccarelli
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or lovers of gossip, this is the place where the Clooneys spent their wedding night, for stat enthusiasts, it’s one of Italy’s two seven star hotels and one of six in the world, and for art lovers it’s the ‘palazzo’ where Tiepolo lived and a place where, if you’re lucky, you can sleep in a suite with ceiling paintings by the artist. The Aman hotel is all this and more. Located inside the historic Palazzo Papadopoli, a masterpiece of neo-Renaissance style, it is an emblem of true luxury, more understated than ostentatious. In spite of being located on the Grand Canal, just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the palazzo, whose hallmark feature is discretion, was conceived as a (luxurious) private home. The creative consultant at the hotel’s Arva restaurant is none other than starred chef Davide Oldani who, together with 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
executive chef Dario Ossola and sous chef Dario Boschetti, pursues a culinary philosophy inspired by tradition and developed with creativity, exalting raw materials and returning authenticity to flavours, using raw materials that are of the highest quality, and are sourced from local farmers, fishermen and breeders. In fact, Arva means ‘cultivated land’ in Latin. On the menu, depending on the season, Davide Oldani’s creations are marked by a special symbol and include Saffron risotto, Monkfish, braised fennel and ‘Salmoriglio’ sauce, Slow cooked suckling pig, apple kombucha and ginger spinach. >> Aman Venice San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo) T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of
Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s
TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.
www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35
TOP COFFEE AND PASTRY SHOPS most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. By Stefania Vida
Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Caffè Florian Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www. caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele. www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www. rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
DINING
Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3
Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1
La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Oro
Quadri
Met
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,
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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4
Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6
Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Glam
Dopolavoro
Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
Venissa
Il Ridotto
Osteria da Fiore
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
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SIGHTSEEING |
Beyond the legend In addition to its irrefutable beauty, the Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s must-see landmarks. An iconic attraction steeped in folklore. By Giulia Minero
A
fter leaving St. Mark’s Square and continuing onwards in the direction of the Doge’s Palace, stopping for a photo on the ancient Ponte della Paglia is an absolute must. From here you can see the Bridge of Sighs, one of the corners of Venice most widely photographed by tourists. These days, it is considered the bridge of love par excellence. It is said that if a couple in a gondola kisses as they pass under the bridge at sunset as the bells of St. Mark's toll, their love will last forever, but in fact, its history is anything but romantic. Its origins date back to 1589, the year in which Doge Marino
Grimani commissioned the building of a new structure on the opposite side of the canal hosting the Doge’s Palace to be used as a prison. The prime objective of the new complex was to safeguard the palace from the onerous duty of hosting prisoners within its walls. This elegant Baroque bridge in white Istrian stone was designed by Antonio Contin and his son Bernardo, and served a very practical purpose. It was used to connect the Doge’s Palace to the building of the New Prisons. As a result, in the centuries that followed it became known as the ‘Bridge of Sighs’, a name coined in the 19th century by Romantic poet Lord Byron who, in turn
The Bridge of Sighs is one of the most romantic corners in Venice
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was inspired by another legend. In fact, it is said that prisoners who crossed the bridge on the way to their prison cells or the execution chamber would sigh as they caught their last glimpses of Venice through the bridge’s tiny windows. An inescapable fate because, under the rule of the Doges, imprisonment lasted until death. Today, the tour of the interiors of the bridge is included in the “Secret Itineraries” of the Doge’s Palace tour. This guided tour, only available through booking, also offers visitors a chance to admire the interiors of the palace and the prisons, including the horrendous Torture Chamber and the deeply feared Interrogation Room. >> palazzoducale.visitmuve.it/en
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www.canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant
When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect?
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the
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EDITOR'S TIP
top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini. it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).
Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951
by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important
11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.
Museo Correr 42 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various
| SIGHTSEEING
aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
FREE ADMISSION TO STATE MUSEUMS
Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, setdesign, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-
Ca' d'Oro Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Venice, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 3 March. Gallerie dell’Accademia www.gallerieaccademia.org Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità) Open Mon 8.15-2pm and Tues-Sun 8.15-7.15pm. Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro (Giorgio Franchetti Gallery at Ca’ d’Oro). www.cadoro.org Cannaregio, 3932. Open Mon 8.15am-6.45pm and Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm.
Museo d’Arte Orientale (Oriental Art Museum). www.arteorientale.org Santa Croce, 2076. Open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Venezia (National Archaeological Museum of Venice) www.polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it Piazzetta San Marco, 17/52. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo di Palazzo Grimani www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo Nazionale di Villa Pisani (National Museum Villa Pisani) www.villapisani.beniculturali.it Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra (20 minutes from Venice) Open Tues-Sun 9am-5pm.
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PHOTO © JAN S. / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ESSENTIALS
Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi
I
talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.
Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates
(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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SANTA
della
FOSCARINI
LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
MISERICORDIA FOND.
RACHETA LA DE
FELICE
CALLE
I ZZ PO
Dolce
PRIULI
DO
FOORNO
Ca’
GA
DEL
RU
Rio
VELE DE
LE
CALLE
APOSTOLI
CALLE
PISTOR
SANTI
DEL
VERDI
CALLE
C.SANT’ANTONIO
RIO TERRÀ
SALIZADA
SOFIA
SANTA
CAMPO
CANNAREGIO
BOMBASEI
APRILE II
CALLE
MERCERIA
STAGNERI
C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
SALIZADA
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
NUOVE
FOSCARI CALLE
CALLE DEI FUSERI
SALONI
E
LL
RIO CROCE
STRETTA
SAN
AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA
DELLE
I CASE
CASE
CAPITELO
FONDAMENTA
DEL
PIAVE
CALLE
LARG
CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE
C.
ROSA
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
LARGA
CALLE
ETTI,
VECCHIA
LA
CALLE
TI, RÀ
DE
FA R S
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CALLE
CORTE
RS FA
RIO T ERÀ
TE
CALLE
DEL
RIELLO
CALLE
CALLE
TREVISAN
CAMIN
RIO
COLOMBINA CALLE
PESARO
QUERIN,
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
SAN FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TRAGHETO
FONTEGO
MEGIO
DEL
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
DEL
SALITA
CALLE
C.
STAE
FORNO DEL
SAN
D’ORO
CA’
LUCIA
C.
CALLE
LARGA
SALIZADA
ROSA
SANTA
CALLE
GRUE
DEL
LE DE
CALLE
CARMINATI
CAMPANIEL DEL
REGINA
SALIZADA
LA
PICCOLO
FONDAMENTA
SIMON
DE
CALLE
BOTERI
DEI CALLE
L’ANZOLO
STUA LA
DE
DE
CALLE
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’
DEL
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
DRIO
DORSODURO SESTIERE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CALLE
ROCCO SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI
CALLE
LE DE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE
DEL
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
SANGIANTOFFETTI
EREMITE
FONDAMENTA
DEI CORTELLOTTI
FONDAMENTA NANI
FOSCARINI
FONDAMENTA
VENIER
CALLE
CALLE
LL
CA
FONDAMENTA
ROTONDA
MP
CA
O
CA
SANT'ELENA
LL
GE
Rio
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NO
SA
I
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SANT'ELENA
TA
TI
EN
C
AM
BO
D
LI
N
SA
LL
BB
TE
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TA
NT
EN
Parco delle Rimembranze
MP
Santa Croce
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AM
CA
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E
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LL
M
DEI
US
TERÀ
PALUDO
ND
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CA
IN
OC
C.
CR
CROCE
VIALE PIAVE
TA
RD
GRANDE
GI
N
RIO
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CALLE
SA
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
G
PONTE
EN
E
CALLE
AM
ND
AL
CORTE
FO
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
Giardini
S. Giorgio
VI
FIANCO
CENETTE
PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA
CALLE
ALDI
EP
O
SAN GIACOMO
A
IST
LL
ACCADEMIA
CE
R L C
IB PE GAR
NA
RI
DE
MA
ION
Lungo
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
C.
EN
ROSA
SALAMON
CALLE
BB
IAN
RE
RI
CO
SA
SE
C.
GIUSEP
SARES
O E ANC
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
VIALE
CALL
TI
CALLE
COPPO
SCHIAVONA
AR
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
SANT'ANNA
CALLE CORERA
CALLE
M
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
CALLE TERCO
F O N D A M E N TA
C A L L E C ATA PA N
CALLE
TE
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
FONDAMENTA
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
I
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
COLTRERA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
de le
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
San Francesco di Paola BALD
OSPIZIO
CALLE
LE
CALLE FRIZIER
GARI
EPPE
C. LOREDANA
I S ET
AN
CALLE
ENA
CALLE
DE
EL
FONDAMENTA
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
VA
CH
Ponte
E N TA
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CROSERA
AM
DELLA
MI
ERBE
RAMO DE
CALLE
ND
CALLE
E
LE
AMEN
TANA
CALLE
FO
CALLE ALBERO
LL
JUNGHANS
DE
FOND
DE LA
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
FO
Redentore O
Santissimo Redentore
CALLE MORE
del
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
CASTELLO
SAN GI ACOM
CA
CAMPO
CALLE
VIDA
DI
M E N TA
LA
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
PIETRO
PICCOLO
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
SAN
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
Punta della Dogana
IA
CALLE
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
FORNACE
SALONI
FEM
DE CALLE
CROSERA
C. VOLTO
TERRÀ
'EU
PISCINA
PIGNATER
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
CATECUMENI
RIO
NT
SCUOLA
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
ONI
DEL PIOVAN
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
SA
CALLE
DE
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
TA
CALLE
S C H I AV
CALLE DELA CREA
Giudecca Palanca EN
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
BASTION
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
AM
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
SCUDI
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
ND
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
DEL
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
FO
COSMO
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SAN ANTONIN
DE
Spirito Santo
FO
Sant'Eufemia
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
DEGLI
VERONA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
San Gregorio
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
BIAGIO
CALLE
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SAN
R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
DEI FORNI
SAN
CONVERTITE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
VONI
Arsenale
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
SALIZADA
SALIZADA
CALLE BOSELLO
LA
MINELLI
TERRÀ
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
100 m
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
DE
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
Rio Del
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
RIO
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
DEGLI
O
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
RI
CALLE DEL BASTION
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CALLE
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
DEI
DEL
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
FONDAMENTA
ra Scomenze De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA DE C.
PORTO
a
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
CALLE
DEI PRETI
GATE
CALLE
DRASI
ZORZI SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DE LE
DEI
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
PISCINA
VERONA
RC
CALLE
CALLE
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
LA
CALLE
DE
A N M
SALIZADA
SEVERO
DIREZIONE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SAN
FABBRI
Marittim
LATERANO
CORTE NOVA
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
DEI
LARGA
P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
MEZO
RUGA
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
SA
Rio San Lorenzo
DE CALLE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
DEL
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San
CORTE NUOVA
San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
SAN
CALLE
RC
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
CALLE
Rio
RIO
CALLE
CALLE
BARBARIA
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO DEL CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
SCHIAVONI RIVA
LE VIGNOLE
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
ORBI
BEMBO
DE LE
DEI
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
C.
MAGAZZINI
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
Museo Correr
SALUTE
ZATTERE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
LARGA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
ZZA
REMER
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
PIA
O DEL
CINQUE
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
AI
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
COCCO
TOSCANA
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
NOVE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
SAN
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
BERLENDIS
VARISCO
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
GIAZZO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
BOTERI
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
MIRACOLI
CALLE
DE
CALLE
Stazione
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
Salute
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
RIO
Teatro Malibran
SALIZADA
SAN
DELLE
SAN
DEL CALLE
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CORTE BAROZZI
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
CASTELLO
CALLE
MADONA
zera
ORESI
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
RUGA
CALLE
DOLERA
DIETRO
FABBRICHE
CALLE
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
VAPORETTO
LE
GALIZZI
STURION
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
CALLE
Palazzo Genovese
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
RAMO
S.Canciano CALLE
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
DE PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
X
SAN LIO
MAZZINI CORTE
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI
San Fantin
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
CHIESA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
FONTEGO
PIO
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
DELLA
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE
SANTO
DEL
VOLTI
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
CALLE
SAN CALLE CALLE
Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN
TEATRO
MARCO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
ALLO
CALLE CALLE
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
ZEN
RIO
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
San Silvestro
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
DEL
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
DEI
DEL
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
CATERINA
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
DEL
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
TRAGHETTO
CALLE
ZATTERE
Zattere
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
DEL
RUGHETA
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
CAMPO PISANI
CATENE
SANTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL SOL
SAN BOTEGHE
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CALLE
LA
CAMPO DE LA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
LE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
FONDAMENTA
NOVE
CALLE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
DEL
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal DEL
CALLE
NARISI FOND.
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
San Trovaso FONDAMENTA
LA
CARAMPANE
de r an
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
FALIER
BONLINI
LE
Palazzo Fortuny
DI SAN MARCO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan CALLE
OGNISANTI
DEL
San Felice
DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
al G
SESTIERE
S. SALIZADA
CARROZZE
CALLE
S. Samuele
LONGO
FONDAMENTE
FONDAMENTA
VENDRAMIN
CALLE
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
PERDON
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DE
TRAPOLIN
CA'
CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
Can Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE
LE
IA
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
C.
Rio Nuovo
FOND.
O
DE
Santa Fosca
TIOZZI
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE RAMO
PONTE
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
DEI
C.
SCALETER
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
ER
NA
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE
DEL
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
Accademia
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
IS
FONDAMENTA
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
TA
TRON
SAN
C.
EN
MORETTI
C.
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE
CROSERA
Ca' Rezzonico
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
D
CALLE
TABACCHI
CALLE
C.
DE
SAN BOLDO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
San Barnaba
N
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
NUOVA
PRETI
L’ASEO
Madonna
MORI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
NA
DONZELA
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
CA
LA
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
LE
ALE
DE
PAPADOPOLI
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
DE OGNISANTI
NIE
DD
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
RIO
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
DEI
M .DA
MA
La Maddalena
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
LA
DE
LA
CALLE DE LA LACA
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
À D E
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
Rio
SALIZADA
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
FO de Servi N
TER
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
Bacino
DE
DE LA VIDA
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Misericordia
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della
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DEI
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SIMEONE LUNA
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Magazen
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Rio
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San Sebastiano SAN
CALLE CAZZA
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LA
DEI AMAI
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Del
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CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RUGA BELA
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SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
CALLE SAVIO
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Angelo Raffaele
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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
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IA
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Scomen
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FONDAMENTA
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San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
Rio
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DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
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CALLE
ICO
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SANT'ANDREA
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della
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San Marcuola
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nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
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Giardino di Palazzo
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LA
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Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
TA
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LA
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CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
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Ferrovia
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Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
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San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
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AM
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San Leonardo
San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO
SCALZI
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
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San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
ND
I
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SAN LEONARDO
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
CAVALLETTI
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
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Madonna dell'Orto
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A
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People Mover Venezia
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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
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SE
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Museo Ebraico CAL
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EN
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LL
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San Girolamo
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Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
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INE
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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
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TA
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AM
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di Cannaregio
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Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
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Canale
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People Mover Venezia
della
CARLO
FO
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SAN
San Giobbe
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Rio
Rio
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Ponte dei Tre Archi
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DEL SABION
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FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
CALLE
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
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Parco
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NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia
VIA
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S. Servolo
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
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A
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Hundertwasser' Garden
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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
VI
A
VIA
CA
ND
IA
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LU
NG
OM
AR
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PO
VI
VIA
VIA
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DOM
CO
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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
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TR
VIA
SANDRO
ISOLA
GALLO
DI LEMNO
LU
Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
A
M
O
RO
SI
N
I
N
I
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Hotel Excelsior Venice
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S. Antonio Di Padova
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CA
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ve
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TA A R SE
FONDAME
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O
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TA
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PP
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San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA
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AL E
Russia Pavilion
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CH
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IA
SS PA
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A
Sant'Elena
F. LL
LL
CA
Parco delle Rimembranze VI
AL
E
VI
TT
OR
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VI
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6 PONTE DI RIALTO
11 LIDO DI VENEZIA
2 PALAZZO DUCALE
7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA
12 THE GHETTO
3 CANAL GRANDE
8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO
13 MURANO
4 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI
9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE
14 BURANO
G
CA
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Teatro Verde
5 TEATRO LA FENICE
F
C.
ENA
ER
TTO
LA
LE
EL
ERA
AR
GEN
ENA
ND
SAN T'EL
NO
LE
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
T'EL ENTA SAN
TI
CAL
FON DAM
NT
FO
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M
LO
LL
LA
IO
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IO
GE
CA
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PIZ
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EL
SQ
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CH
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GR
MI
LL
MO
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L
CA
RA
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LL
CA
LE
AN
LL
ON LL E
CA
S MA
Japan Pavilion
Top in Town
E
XXIV M AGG
CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O
C
RT
MAGGIORE
LI
MA
SAN GIORGIO
BB
LO
DI
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PO
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United States Pavilion
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LL
AM
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CA
CA
ND
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AM
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Le Zitelle
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SA
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S. Giorgio
TA
Q
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NA
RI
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DE
CO
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CAMPO SAN ISEPO
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
LE
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CALL
ALDI
RI
AL
SANT'ANNA
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IB PE GAR
TI
IAN
AR
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SARES
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CALLE
TT
DOME NICO CALLE SAN
Punta della Dogana
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NA
PO E COP
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DE
F O N D A M E N TA
I
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VA
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San Francesco di Paola
RERA
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GRIMANI CALLE
VA E NUO
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CALL
ESSO
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CALL
VAL
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CALL
CALLE
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100 m
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LE
ST
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FO ND
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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
CAL
V TA
CA
RAMO DE
IN
DI
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TR
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CALLE TERCO
NALE
P IE
VID A
EN TA
LA
A RO SA
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
FOND
E LA RG
RE
LE
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL
EMB
ENA
SAL IZAD
ARS
A STR ETA
mo
DE I FO RN I
DE
E N TA
CALL
ION
DEI FORNI
Arsenale
ini
N
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DAM
Rio de San Gerola
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NI
FON
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AL
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Verg
SA
ONI
CAL LE
S C H I AV
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CALLE DEL DOSE
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San Martino
CALLE DEL FORNO
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E IV NOV
delle ale Can
de le
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RIN ST PE
L’A
CA LL E
E DE LL CA
DE
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
NATER PIG
4
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
VIAL
am Fond
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RI
NDAM ENTA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Rio d el Giardini
Nuo
L’AN ZO LO
enta
CALLE ZORZI
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DO NA
M AG NO CAL LE
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CALLE
CALLE
CALLE DEL FO
PEL LO O CAP
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DE
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
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CAL
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C.
LEONAR DO
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CALLE DE LE RASSE
ALBANESI CALLE DEL
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LL
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LL
AP II
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LL
SE
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CA
AS
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
TA
IA
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San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
VONI
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EN
LE ST
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CAL
CAL
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DE
DE ADA SALIZ
CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA
CE
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
LARG
MO GL A DE RIV
A N M
DEGLI
LE CAL
N TI AR M
DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA
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an Moisè
SA LO
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VE
N IO ST BA
CA
Museo Correr
San Zaccaria
ANT ONIN
LL A
AM
L DE
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Palazzo Ducale
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
TT
zo
LE
OLO
2 4
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CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
SALIZAD A SAN
DE
CAL LE
CAL LE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE DEI FURLANI
San Giorgio dei Greci
LL E
ND
E LL CA
SE
AL CAV
OR
RC
ENTA FONDAM
CA
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
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TA
l Palaz
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EN
MA
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CALLE LION
IN MAR DE L’OS
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
RI BB FA
AM
ZZA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
C. PIA NTON
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
DEI
ND
Rio De
LE CAL
FO
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SE ST
FO
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CORTE DELLE GATE
CALLE BOSELLO
IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA
O DIV RE O
ONI CA
CORTE DEL MORION
SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A
E GAT
I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA
LE CAL
Basilica di San Marco
E DEI CALL
ENT A CAS
MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O
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CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO
DAM
RA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
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San Francesco della Vigna
SCO
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or
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CO
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ad
Bacino Orseolo
CALLE DEL FIGHER
LE LAR
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San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
San Lorenzo
FRA
IZADA SAL
lv
CA AN E BI LL CA
LO EL PP CA
ZON
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
RO VE N SE SA
Sa
CAL
NI LO EI BA C.D
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LE CAL
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
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FA GIUF
n
AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
CORTE
FRUTARIOLI
LE SAN
CALLE ERIZZO
LE DE CAL
FON
CAL
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
Rio San Lorenzo
A SC TA
CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
O
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CALL
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LE CAL
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Sa
INA
ST
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BI
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San Giuliano
PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE
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L IO
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O
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CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
N
CORTE
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OL
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DE
A
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LL
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
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S
CORTE
C. DE
DE
LL E
LIO
DE LA FAVA
A
CALICE
DE LE TOLE
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CORTE TREVISAN
CA
SA N
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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARG A
CAMPO
C. DEL
San Salvador
AZEN
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D
SAN
O
A
MA RZA RIA
MB
L IZ
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A
SABION
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DE L GO
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BARB ARIA
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ZZO
CAMPO SAN LIO
X
CORTE DEL
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
RE
GIA
EN
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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5
Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4
Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC Villa Barbarich – Via Molino E CITY GUIDE Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)
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