Where Magazine Venice Mar 2019

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

MARCH 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

SPOTLIGHT ON BEAUTY On the trail of illustrious Venetian women ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY Top events and places to be ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


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Venice March 2019 40

14

SIGHTSEEING

the guide

INSIDER TIPS

24 SHOPPING

The lifestyle department store T Fondaco by DFS offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE Bridge of Sighs

34 DINING

HOT DATES

Le Stanze del Vetro

Picture dinner at Arva, a restaurant located in a 17th century building overlooking the Grand Canal, where amongst frescoes by Tiepolo you can sample dishes created by Davide Oldani.

Parco San Giuliano

24

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stol

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CALLE

ti Apo San

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DON

CALLE

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE LE

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BAN DI CAL LE

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

TEST A E DE

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BAL OTE LE DE

DEL

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RC

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Salute FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

NI

Punta della Dogana

RE

AI

SA

LO

CATECUMENI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

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CALLE DEL NAVARO

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Moise

Palazzo Ducale

MO

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I

TER

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San

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O

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TREDIC

CALLE

A

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VALLAR

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

CALLE

CA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

RC

Museo Correr

CALLE

MENTA

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

MARCO

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SIONE

FONDA

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

E

LE CAL

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TRA GHE TO

DEL

C.

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CALL

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San Gio

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CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

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Palazz

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CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Rio Del

DEL

DEI CORTELL

ZUL IAN

C.DEI

CARRO

Rio

DEL TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CA TAS

San Giuliano

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

O

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

VAPOR

À

O SAT MUS

SAN

Bacino Orseolo

San Moisè

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

DEL

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CALLE

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CORTE BAROZZI

CALLE

C. LARGA

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DEL

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

IAPIE RA

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CALLE GOLDONI

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CASTEL

CAMPO

CAL LE

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DEL

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CALLE

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CALLE

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NA

A

CALLE

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CALL GABRI E

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PISCI

XXII MARZO

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Santa Maria del Giglio

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CO

LARGA

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A DE

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CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

SAN

lva

VERO

CALLE

AC

DA

Sa

LA

MINELL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

CALLE

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

SALVAD OR

ERI

E

CALLE

IZA

n

DE

RTA

Teatro la Fenice

Canal Grande

SAN

BOT

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

Sa

C.

CALLE

CAOTO

Santa Maria del Giglio

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

C.

ONA

CALLE

DEI

CAMPIELLO STELLA

N

WID

LE

X

Rio

I

GA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

S.Canciano

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

LE

C. DE LE COLONNE

CALLE

SSIN

ASSA TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

LAR

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

NDE LOCA

OLA MAND

A LUC SAN

CALLE

VER

CALLE

LE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

MAR ZARI A DEL

DEL

LE CAL

San Fantin

R

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

FONTEG

San Salvador

LA

LL

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

MARCO

ETIE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

SAL

BO BEM

SAN

RO TEAT LE CAL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO BON CAR

A

CA

RAMO

O

SALI ZZA DA

Rialto

CORTE DEL

DEL

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SIM

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TIM

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FRUTA

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CAL

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C. DEL

A

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na

SARTORI

TERÀ

CALLE

CAN

PO

SI

TOS

NE

HE BRIC FAB

DE

ZIO

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

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ETTI MOR

LE

LE

RE

CALL

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

San Giovanni Grisostomo

DE

ON

ORE

ANG

DEI

PAR

DI

E

ZEN

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

N

ttim a

ULI

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

RIO

ari

ENTA

CALL

A

STU

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CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

DAM

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DEL

TI OCA

MAN

DEL

CHIES

DEL FORNO

VE

RINA

SALIZAD

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Maurizio

CALLE

NO

REA

RUG

LE

E CALL

À

AVV

BOT EGH E

SALIZADA

VA

DEI

CAL

TEA TR O

CALL

LE

DELLA

UZZI

PRI

CAL LE

TER

CAL

CALLE

CAPP

ENT A

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

LE

GO

. S.AND

DAM

San Silvestro

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

E

NO

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

CATE

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

RIO

NT'A

FOND

Santa Sofia

DA

LE

DEL

E CALL

C.SA

NANI

RA

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TE

CALLE

TA

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FON

CAL

GALIZ

Ca

EN

ENTA

SAN

CAL

NO RAVA

DEL

DEI

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AM

CAL

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

ETA

de ran

SI

CAMPO PISANI

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

A

cin

ND

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

RUGH

Santo Stefano

San Vidal

ST

ZEL

LE

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STU A

DON

DEI LAVRANE

LA

MUT I

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DEL PISTOR

CALLE

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FISOLA

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C.

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

DEL

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

ZATTER

CHIESA

. NARI

Palazzo Loredan

MENTA

DELLA

DE

BOT A

SAN

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

CALLE

FONDA

CALLE

DE

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso

OL

ANI GRIM

OZZE CARR

AP

E CALL

LE

CHI TODES

E DE CALL

FOND

CRO SER A

S. Samuele

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

MI

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

IER

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

RA

Sant’Aponal

DE L

FAL

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

LA

FORNO

DA IZA SAL

C. DEI

LON

ND

DEL

CA’

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Ca' Rezzonico

TR

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

LE SAMUE

TE

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

RIN PEST

PON

TA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

SERA

E AL

CAR

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

A S. PISCIN

CAL LE RAMO

al G

SESTIERE

S. Toma' SX

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LE

Sant'Angelo

LE

LINI

' VE

ERA

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

DE

E DOL

Can

San Tomà

ENTA

EN

S.Silvestro

CAL

DAM

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

LE CAL

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CALLE BERNARDO

FON

AM

CAMPO APONAL

Ca' Rezzonico

I

ND

DON SAN PER

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SANT

TER

E DEL CALL

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TER

L’AG NEL LA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CALL

FOND

ZAT

DE

Accademia

DE OGNISAN

NTA

C.

CORTE DEL TEATRO

HETT

S. Basilio

DE INC INI

SCA

TRAG

ENTA

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CA’BCAL ONVLE

DEL LET

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

TI

AME

ZI

CAMPO SAN POLO

A

San Barnaba

DEI TIOZ

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

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O

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

LE

E DEL

O

IC

DE

Santa Fosca

SAN

C.

ER

IA

FO

CAL

CALL

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TA

CALL

SER

EN

IS

C.

CRO

AM

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LE

TA

DE

CAL

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CA

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DEI PUTI

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NA

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE LA

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Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

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San Felice

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

TTO

CALL

FOMO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

SAN

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

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TOMÀ

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DD

SAN POLO

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Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

OCHE

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TRA

del

A ENT

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min

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Rio

DAM

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L

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ORE

R

FON

CALLE SAN BASILIO

BR

DE

E ZANE

DEL

TA

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TALO

FO

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

E RENIE

DEL

AM

do

ll'O

AM

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

AL

CAMPO SAN STIN

LE

EN

TERÀ

SAN

LE

D

S.Stae

CAL

NI

AM

RIO

CAL

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

C. DE

DIA

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

I

N

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALL

ND

Ma

C.

ESI

RIO TERA’

AR

DON

ND

E LE

CALL

CALL

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

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LAR

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C.

MEZ

E

San Rocco

Mu

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

LE

IA

CIM

N

le

PAN

SSA

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

DAR O

de

San Pantalon

RO

O

Angelo Raffaele

LA TT

N

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CAMPO SAN BOLDO

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C.VE

LA

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LE

TI

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CALLE

i

RE

OLO

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

TA

DE

TOR

BASEG

RIO

LE

TIN

DA

DE L’OGIO

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CALLE CASE NUOVE

CALLE

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TA

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MA

SA

L’ISOLA

CAL

A

CALL

CALLE

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CALLE CONTARINA

CA

AMEN

AMEN

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LAC

ete

RAG

FOND

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AM

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

I

DEI FONTEGH

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LA

gh

IZAD

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

RAMO

LE

CERER

DE

LA

LA

E C AN

La Maddalena

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CAL

I

DEI

LE

DE

O SAL

o de

LE CAL

NE

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI CALLE

L

TERA’

CALLE CAZZA

I

EO

MADON

LA

C.

ne

OTT

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE SAVIO

ZO

LE

DE

NA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RUGA BELA

CALLE DE LA LACA

ESI

Ma

CAL

A CALLE

CA

E

BAR

SIM

URATI

LA

TA PROC

E

RT

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE

À D E

S.Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

RZ

TER

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

A

O

ENT A MIN

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

San Marcuola

I

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

N

TA RIZZI

CAZZIO

AMEN

BAR

TA

GA

SA LUN

Rio

Del

en

MENTA

AMEN

LA

DE

RAM

DAM

gaz

FONDA

FOND

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DEI AMAI

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

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FOND

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CO

ND

VE

CAM

CALLE

IO

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

R

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DEL REMER

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CAMPIELLO

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Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries.

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www.whereitalia.com/venice Download all issues www.magzter.com Digital magazine store

Let’s take advantage of International Women’s Day to remember the women who made Venice famous, with a historic tour of the places that they loved.

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STAY IN TOUCH

14 VENICE.

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Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer.

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44 ESSENTIALS

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SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS

This month's round-up of shows, art exhibitions and events.

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8 HOT DATES

Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, Burano is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.

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ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE Our pick of the best seasonal trends

31 STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

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On the trail of illustrious Venetian women

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In addition to its irrefutable beauty, the Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s must-see landmarks. An iconic attraction steeped in legend and folklore.

ISOLA CAMPALTO

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Contents

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MARCH 2019

W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE

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VENICE CITY GUIDE

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40 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

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YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

WELCOME TO ITALY ON THE TRAIL OF LEONARDO Dear Visitor, welcome to Italy! 2019 is the year in which Italy will be overflowing with celebrations marking the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci, the man who more than any other, represents Italy throughout the world. Andrea Jarach Several cities including Milan, Florence and Rome Publisher ® will host a series of special events. The full program Where of Italian exhibitions and events honouring Leonardo throughout 2019 can be found on the pages of Where®. We invite you to discover the country that gave life to the person considered the world over as one of history’s greatest thinkers. While visiting Italy you’ll understand why only Italy could have given birth to this man whose creative mind shaped the intellectual, social, cultural, and political facets of European life from the fifteenth century onwards. Leonardo made an indelible contribution to philosophy, nature, medicine and art. All that now remains is for us to look for the traces left by the enigmatic Leonardo. You’ll find them in whatever part of Italy you’re visiting. If you happen to find them, please share your comments, with your photo, on our social media. By the end of the year, we’d like to collect a gallery of the friends of Italy. Happy hunting!

www.whereitalia.com/venice PROEDI MEDIA  WHERE

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Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi (daniele.misrachi@whereitalia.com) MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

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Don’t miss the museum dedicated to the Great Genius, lying adjacent the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Bottom: one of the six exhibition rooms of the Museo Leonardo da Vinci at the Scoletta di San Rocco. www.davincimuseum.it

Paola Grilli (paola.grilli@whereitalia.com) HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Maria Granata (maria.granata@whereitalia.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL  ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a


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MORE ON PAGE 41 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10 LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11 THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 14 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5


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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

All about the gondola

6 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019


Why are gondolas black? Between the 15th and 16th centuries, during the height of the Serenissima’s splendour, noblemen used to decorate their gondolas with lavish ornamentation. In an attempt to abolish the competition between noble families, the Senate passed a law decreeing that all gondolas must be standardized and painted black.

a gondola - oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back.

Gondolas have a flat bottom that allows them to navigate easily in shallow waters.

It’s not easy to become a professional gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam.

Traditionally, only men were allowed to be gondoliers. The first female gondolier – or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the 24 year old daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license.

Until just a few decades ago, a small cabin called a felze was mounted in the middle of the gondola. It had a sliding door and windows and was even equipped with a heater in winter. It was used to protect passengers from the cold and damp and… lovers from prying eyes. Gondolas are asymmetrical. The left side is 24cm longer than the right side. This asymmetry helps counterbalance the weight of the gondolier who stands at the back. It also compensates for the tendency of the boat to sway left as the gondolier continually rows on the right.

Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 metres wide and 0.65 metres high.

−The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized oarlock, is made of walnut. −Eight kinds of different wood are used to build

Emilio Ceccato, a historic shop founded in 1902 at the foot of the Rialto Bridge, is a reference point for the official clothing and accessories worn by Venetian gondoliers. emilioceccato.com

The logo on the gondolier’s uniform features St. Mark as the winged lion holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two traditional iron gondola prow ornaments.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES MARCH

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates. BY ELENA PEVERATA

8 W H E R E M I L A N I M A R C H 2019


MARCH EXHIBITION

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A CENTURY OF LIGHTS SHINES IN THE LAGOON

Canaletto and Giambattista Tiepolo are the stars of the blockbuster exhibition at Palazzo Ducale dedicated to the 18th century in Venice; a century renowned for its extraordinary and innovative artistic activity. The works of both masters will be showcased alongside those of other illustrious artists including Pietro Longhi, Francesco Guardi, Giambattista Piranesi, Giandomenico Tiepolo and Antonio Canova. The exhibition will also pay tribute to the best of 18th-century Venetian decorative arts with a display of beautiful glass art, ceramics and gold jewelry.

FEBRUARY

JUNE

Canaletto and Venice Palazzo Ducale, Appartamento del Doge. Piazza San Marco, 1 palazzoducale.visitmuve.it ANTONIO CANAL (CANALETTO), ”IL CANAL GRANDE DA PALAZZO BALBI A RIALTO“ CA’ REZZONICO, MUSEO DEL SETTECENTO VENEZIANO (VENICE)

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES GLASS DESIGN

EXHIBITION

25 28 MARCH

JULY

A TRIBUTE TO AN ARTISTGLASS MAKER ▼ This must-see exhibition is dedicated to Maurice Marinot, the renowned French artist who laid the foundations for contemporary glass design, based on original, experimental techniques. The exhibition features over 200 works on loan from prestigious museums: from his first creations in enamel, to the hand-blown pieces that he created and modeled with remarkable skill and creativity.

24 15 MARCH

DECEMBER

A COLLECTIVE EXHIBITION AT PUNTA DELLA DOGANA

Maurice Marinot. Glass, 1911-1934 Le Stanze del Vetro. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore www.lestanzedelvetro.org - www.cini.it

▲ ‘Luogo e Segni’ (‘Place and Signs’), takes its name from a painting by Carol Rama included in the exhibition, and brings together over 100 works by thirty artists who have established a particular relationship with their urban, social, political, historic and intellectual context. The artists’ works, presented for the first time at Punta della Dogana, interact with several works that were formerly hosted at important exhibitions at this Venetian venue. In addition the exhibit will include a rich program of events, performances and meetings open to the public.

OPERA

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A DRAMA OF JEALOUSY

► Giuseppe Verdi’s fondness for Shakespeare is apparent in Otello, one of MARCH APRIL his best-known works. In this particular rendition, Verdi, with Italian composer and librettist Arrigo Boito, left out the first act of the Shakespearian drama preferring a more concise interpretation. This dark tragedy is based on misunderstandings, betrayal and jealousy, and is set on the Island of Cyprus at the end of the 15th century. The opera is conducted by Maestro Myung-Whun Chung. Supertitles in Italian and English.

Giuseppe Verdi, Otello. Teatro La Fenice, San Marco 4387 www.teatrolafenice.it

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PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

Place and Signs. Punta della Dogana. Dorsoduro, 2. www.palazzograssi.it


MARCH

15 MARCH

NOTES IN THE LAGOON The “Squero” on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore, is an old workshop where boats were manufactured and repaired. It is now a modern auditorium dedicated to chamber music. The list of concerts scheduled on the venue’s March program include a collaboration with the Associazione Chamber Music, featuring Prague’s talented ‘Josef Suk Piano Quartet’, with music by Josef Suk and Robert Schumann. The concert starts at 6pm, the perfect time to admire the sunset from the venue’s panoramic window overlooking the Lagoon. Associazione Chamber Music - Josef Suk Piano Quartet Auditorium “Lo Squero”, Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore www.cini.it/en/auditorium-losquero

ART COLLECTION FROM

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FEBRUARY

20TH CENTURY ITALIAN MASTERPIECES ▼ An extraordinary nucleus of works originating from important collections is currently on show at the International Gallery of Modern Art. The exhibition features 32 works by several of Italy’s most illustrious 20th century artists including Massimo Campigli, Carlo Carrà, Giacomo Manzù, Ottone Rosai, Scipione and Mario Sironi. They are showcased alongside the museum’s rich permanent collection that is housed in the rooms of Ca’ Pesaro, a masterpiece of civil Baroque-Venetian architecture.

A collection of modern Italian art Ca’ Pesaro - Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna. Santa Croce, 2076 capesaro.visitmuve.it

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it

© MICHELE CROSERA

CLASSICAL MUSIC

OPERA 22, 26, 30 March and 4, 7 April OTELLO by Giuseppe Verdi English surtitles Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Francesco Micheli, director Edoardo Sanchi, sets Silvia Aymonino, costumes Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master 27, 28, 29, 31 March and 2, 3, 5, 6 April LA TRAVIATA by Giuseppe Verdi English surtitles Francesco Lanzillotta, Marco Paladin, conductors Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets & costumes Philippe Girardeau, coreography Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master CONCERTS 9, 10 March MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG CONDUCTOR Music by Gustav Mahler (Symphony No. 2 in C minor, ‘Resurrection’) Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Sara Mingardo, alto CHAMBER MUSIC - MUSIKÁMERA 12, 13 March at Sale Apollinee Music by Franz Schubert and Robert Schumann Andrea Lucchesini, piano The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES PHOTOGRAPHY

21 18 MARCH

AUGUST

THE MAFIA THROUGH A LENS ► This large retrospective dedicated to Letizia Battaglia, one of Italy’s most remarkable female photographers, traces her career with 200 images, some famous, others less well known. Her photographs offer an unflinching pictorial tapestry of the bloody years of Sicily’s Mafia wars, through black and white images loaded with contrasts. Divided by themes, the exhibition explores the life of the Island’s poor, revolts in the street, politics, life, death and love.

Letizia Battaglia. Photography as a Life Choice. Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 - Giudecca, Venezia www.treoci.org

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE APRIL Venice Night Trail (13 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. MAY Biennale Arte 2019 (11 May-24 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 58th International Art Exhibition, titled ‘May You Live In Interesting Times’ is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Ralph Rugoff, currently the director of the Hayward Gallery in London. JUNE Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity (1-2 June) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony Vogalonga (9 June) > 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

Feast of San Piero de Casteo (26-30 June) JULY Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (20-21 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks.

NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice Concert Season Opening (beginning of November) Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November)

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER Biennale Cinema 2019 - International Film Festival (28 August-7 September) > 76th Venice Film Festival organized by La Biennale di Venezia.

Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day with a temporary bridge crossing over the Grand Canal set up. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica (16-17 December) > The event is organized by Teatro La Fenice with the Cappella Marciana Soloists.

SEPTEMBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (1 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions.

JANUARY 2020 New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January 2020) >17th edition of the traditional New Year’s Concert.

The Venice Glass Week (7-15 September) An international festival dedicated to the art of glass-making, with a focus on creations made in Murano. OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (17-26 October)

Regata delle Befane (6 January 2020) > A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro, the oldest rowing company in Venice.

Venice Marathon (27 October)

FEBRUARY 2020 Carnival of Venice (15-25 February2020) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.


SAN MARCO, VENEZIA Pal a zzo Regina Vittoria WOMAN R amo dei Fuseri 1810 Tel. +39 041 2410990 MAN R amo dei Fuseri 1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332 HOME Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996 FA SHION | HOME | LIFEST YLE

www.potpourri.it


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Venice Half woman, half fish “

Venice, half woman, half fish, is a siren dissolving into a marsh of the Adriatic

– Jean Cocteau –

We’ve decided to take advantage of the anniversary of 8 March to remember all the women – either Venetian by birth or adoption – who made the Serenissima famous, with a tour of the places that they loved. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

14 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

‘I

nternational Women’s Day’ is celebrated worldwide on 8 March. The custom of acknowledging the ‘fairer sex’ dates back to 1909, when the Socialist Party of America designated the day in honour of the garment workers’ strike in New York, where women protested against the appalling working conditions. A year later, meetings and rallies were organized in various European countries to ask for equality in the workplace and the right to vote. The official consecration of 8 March as a national holiday was due to a protest by Russian women who organized a rally on 8 March 1917 to protest against World War I and the Czar’s government. However, until


IN LOVE WITH ART One of the most important collectors of 20th-century contemporary art, Peggy Guggenheim was so enamoured with Venice that she decided to live and showcase her collection at Palazzo Venier dei Leoni on the Grand Canal, where she created the world’s most unique house museum.

A BIT OF HISTORY We begin our tour and follow in the footsteps of high-class courtesan Veronica Franco who lived in Venice during the second half of the 16th century. Veronica became a famous courtesan thanks to important friendships with men of wealth and stature. She even had a relationship with King Henry III of France and became a member of an important cultural circle.

© SIMEONN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

LANDMARKS

the beginning of the Seventies, ‘Women’s Day’ was celebrated exclusively in countries of the former Soviet Union and in China. In 1975, the United Nations officially designated 8 March as ‘International Women’s Day’, inviting other countries throughout the world to ‘celebrate’ the event. Let’s take advantage of this anniversary to remember the women who made Venice famous, with a historic tour of the places that they loved.

THE COURTESANS OF THE SERENISSIMA More than in any other cities, the role played by women in Venetian culture was key. In fact, whether rich or poor, Venetian women always managed to pursue their objectives, and capitalize on their intellectual abilities.

Jacopo Tintoretto painted a beautiful portrait of her (currently hosted in the Prado Museum in Madrid). Around 1580, together with several other Venetian women, Franco founded a shelter for ‘fallen women’ who wanted to change their lives. This shelter, which now houses the Faculty of Architecture, was located in the vicinity of the Church of Nicolò da Tolentino, in the sestiere of Santa Croce, not far from Piazzale Roma.

DID YOU KNOW? At the time of the Republic, prostitutes lived in various areas scattered across the city. However, during the 15th century they began living in a restricted area known as the ‘Carampane’ in the sestiere of San Polo. This name derives from the Ca’ Rampani, the houses owned by the Rampani family where the courtesans used to stay. The area became a red light district, governed by specific rules and regulations. The area is home to the Ponte de le Tette (Bridge of Tits), a bridge whose unusual name has always been greeted with curiosity, and made people laugh. The reason for its name comes from the prostitutes, who often leaned out of the windows to display their ‘merchandise’. In the 18th century, new laws, designed to increase tourism in the city, were issued. These allowed young, beautiful courtesans to exercise

Elena Cornaro

their trade wherever they wished, while the older courtesans were obliged to remain in the Carampane. As a result, today, in colloquial Italian, the word ‘carampana’ is used to describe an old, slovenly woman.

INTELLECTUALS AND ARTISTS IN THE LAGOON A BIT OF HISTORY As mentioned above, Venetian women were often cultured and talented. However, not a single woman in the world held a university degree until the middle of the 1600s. The first woman to obtain a degree was Venetian-born Elena Cornaro. The daughter of a nobleman, who believed in encouraging education, she became an oblate in the Benedictine Order at the age of nineteen, and began to pursue her studies. When her father petitioned the University of Padua to grant his daughter a degree in theology, Cardinal Barbarigo refused to grant her a degree w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15


PHOTO © MATTEO DE FINA

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Fondazione Giorgio Cini

because she was a woman. In 1678, aged 32, she finally obtained a degree in philosophy but, because she was a woman, she was not allowed to teach this subject.

LANDMARKS If you happen to find yourself strolling through Calle Carboni, near the Rialto Bridge, you’ll notice a plaque dedicated to Elena Cornaro, set in the wall of Ca’ Farsetti, the current Municipality of Venice. The plaque can be found near a gondola station where you can embark on a ferry that will whisk you across the Grand Canal to San Silvestro on the other side, in just a few minutes.

A BIT OF HISTORY Another Venetian woman who was strongly encouraged by her family to pursue her vocation was Rosalba Carriera. Born in 1675, Rosalba was a portrait painter and musician, who was sought

16 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

Veronica Franco

after by all the reigning houses of that time. She soon gained a reputation for the delicacy of her miniatures. She travelled widely and was welcomed at numerous courts throughout Europe, where she was held in high regard. She even received a commission from the King of France, Louis XV, to paint portraits.

LANDMARKS Today, Rosalba Carriera is best known for her self-portraits, which demonstrate her study of precise detailing, each created to show the nuances of her subject's personality. Several of her works are housed in the Museum of 18th century Venice, headquartered at the monumental Palazzo Rezzonico where, amidst precious furnishing and memorabilia of the era, you can also admire a selection of 18th century Venetian paintings, sculptures and frescoes created, among others, by Giambattista Tiepolo and Canaletto (carezzonico. visitmuve.it).

VENETIAN BY ADOPTION Though they weren’t born in Venice, two famous women, key figures respectively in the world of theatre and art, chose the Lagoon city as their elective domicile.

A BIT OF HISTORY Though born in Vigevano near Milan, Eleonora Duse, one of Italy’s most famous 19th century actresses, often said that she felt Venetian in spirit, a fact that was probably attributable to her father who was a native of Chioggia, a small town located just a few kilometers from the Serenissima. Her success was due, above all, to her on-stage naturalness and individuality, in stark contrast with the theatrical emotionalism of 19th century theatre.

PAST AND PRESENT ‘La Divina’, as she was nicknamed by her great love, poet Gabriele d'Annunzio, lived on the top floor of Palazzo Barbaro Wolkoff, on the Grand Canal. This tall, narrow building, initially built according to the canons of Veneto/ Byzantine architecture, was later restructured with the addition of Gothic elements during the 15th century. Unfortunately the building is not open to the public but if you want to follow in the footsteps of ‘La Divina’ just hop on vaporetto line 2 and disembark on the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. In addition to housing treasures of inestimable artistic and architectural value, the monumental complex of the former Benedictine monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore has been the headquarters of the Giorgio Cini Foundation since 1951. The Foundation houses the Duse Archives, the largest collection of documents about


the life and art of the greatest actress in the world. In order to make the precious legacy housed in the Duse Archives accessible to the public, a new permanent space known as ‘Eleonora Duse’s Room’ has been set up inside the Foundation. This space is open to the public and features a rotational display of original materials from the archives. These are exhibited in a series of temporary exhibitions aimed at offering insight into one or more aspects of the actress’s life. The Room can be visited subject to reservation (www.cini.it). Although Eleonora Duse was buried in the Veneto city of Asolo, where she lived during the last years of her life, Gabriele d’Annunzio wrote the epitaph “The youngest daughter of San Marco” on her tombstone, as proof of the emotion that linked the actress to Venice.

A BIT OF HISTORY Famous art collector Peggy Guggenheim was also captivated by the allure of the Serenissima. At the end of World War II, after purchasing Palazzo Venier dei Leoni in 1949, she settled permanently in the Lagoon city. Located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro, overlooking the Grand Canal, it houses the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, one of the most important Italian museums dedicated to early 20th century European and American art (www.guggenheim-venice.it). Born in New York in 1898 to a very affluent family, Peggy began frequenting important salons from a

The womanlike mask Among Venice’s famous women, it is impossible to forget Colombina, one of the most notable female figures of the Commedia dell’Arte and virtually the only version of a female Venetian mask. Colombina personifies the typical pretty maidservant, mischievous and seductive. Although there are numerous variations of her costume, she does not usually wear a mask, but a tight bodice and a flared skirt with blue ruffles and an apron. Her head is covered with a ‘crestina’, a typical maidservant’s cap.

young age. It was here that she met numerous intellectuals of the era including Laurence Vail who became her husband. In 1921, Peggy and Laurence travelled to Europe, where they joined the American expatriate bohemian set in Paris, becoming acquainted with many of the leading figures of the avant-garde movement including Constantin Brancusi, Marcel Duchamp and Samuel Beckett. In 1938, Peggy opened an art gallery in London, which marked the beginning of a career that would influence the course of post-war art significantly. In July of 1941, she left Nazi-occupied France for New York with her children and ex-husband. She returned to Europe in 1948 when her collection was exhibited for the first time at the Venice Art Biennale.

and modernity to post-war Venice. Enraptured by the Bourgeois Venetian world of the era, she charmed everyone she met with her eccentricity and the parties that she held at Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, which were attended by gallerists, artists, politicians and VIPs of the time. During the 30 years that she lived in the Lagoon, Peggy continued to collect and support artists and was awarded honorary citizenship by the city of Venice in 1962. On her death in 1972, her ashes were buried in a corner of the garden of the villa – now the Peggy Guggenheim Collection – where Peggy had buried her numerous, dearly loved dogs (www.guggenheim-venice.it).

LANDMARKS Peggy never left the city, bringing a breath of fresh air, non-conformity

Palazzo Venier dei Leoni - Peggy Guggenheim Collection PHOTO © SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

NARDI

It’s impossible to leave Venice without a souvenir! Indulge your inner diva with a luxury keepsake like a piece of jewelry from Nardi, a family-run business renowned for its signature high-class jewelry. Crafted in white and rose gold with diamonds, this stunning ‘Veneziani’ necklace is the perfect way to take a slice of Venice home with you. www.nardi-venezia.com

GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

TESSITURA BEVILACQUA

Handcrafted in Italy by the historic weaver, whose origins date back to 1499, this cushion with zipper closure is lined and covered with a sophisticated velvet called ‘Fresie’. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com

®

► THE MERCHANT OF VENICE The new skincare line by The Merchant of Venice contains pure 24 carat micronized gold and comprises a day cream, night cream, eye cream and serum, all designed to erase the signs of ageing and keep the skin beautiful. www.themerchantofvenice.com ALBERTO SARRIA MASKS

Free your inner butterfly with ‘Silver Butterfly’, a handcrafted Venetian mask made from papier-mâché, stucco, silver leaf and beeswax. Thanks to its elegant black ribbon it can be easily fastened without either pulling your hair or spoiling your hairdo. www.masksvenice.com GUCCI

SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER

Shaped like boats with the wind in their sails, these yellow gold cufflinks are set with 102 diamonds for a total of over 0.70 carats. A part of the ‘Vela’ collection, they are inspired by the sea and the white, sandy beaches of Sardinia. www.salvadori-venezia.com 18 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

Crafted in white leather, this shoulder bag features brass hardware and the iconic Gucci logo in a vintage 80s version. Ideal for all occasions, this model, boasting an urban streetwear feel, is inspired by the bags carried by mailmen. www.gucci.com


A perfect mix of traditional and digital communication for tourists. MILAN CITY MAP

2019

Milano & leonardo By Welcome to Italia

AUDIOGUIDA

MILANO & LEONARDO

ITALIANO INGLESE SPAGNOLO FRANCESE RUSSO CINESE

MAP

www.m-app.it

MULTILINGUAL APP

info@m-app.it


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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.

Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,

which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.

A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).

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WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

All the allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, just a stone’s throw from the station, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s

Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico

Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels, the Teatro Olimpico is included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Piazza delle Erbe in Verona was the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. Right, the beautiful castle of Miramare (10 km from Trieste) offers a charming panoramic view.

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Verona, Piazza delle Erbe


University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. A new area dedicated to bio-diversity was also recently added, opening up new prospects for the future. In terms of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant in Via Riviera Tiso, 11. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence. One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: if you’re a fan of Renaissance architecture, take a train and head to Vicenza. Its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

TOWARDS VIENNA WITH THE NEW “SPIRIT OF VENICE” While air travel to North America has increased (in May 2017 American Airlines inaugurated a direct route from Venice to Chicago), rail travel to Europe has also grown. One of the best ways to enjoy spectacular panoramic Alpine views is by train. For the past few months it’s been possible to travel from Venice to Austria by train with two daily connections, thanks to OBB, an Austrian railway company. The new Railjet “The Spirit of Venice” connects Venice to the Austrian cities of Villach, Klagenfurt and Vienna safely and comfortably. Amenities include on board Wi-Fi, and there's a top notch dining car for first class passengers. The trip to Vienna lasts eight hours and you can enjoy the changing scenery from the Italian plains to the Austrian Alps. www.obb-italia.com

Trieste, Castle of Miramare Verona: Founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. The city is also famous for its centuries-old production of handcrafted ceramics that you can purchase at one of the town’s many shops. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in

December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: just a two-hour train ride from Venice, the city of Trieste is a must-visit destination. The port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' (as it’s known in the local dialect) climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. This is a unique opportunity to take some wonderful photos. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re tr ave l e r. com 23


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panning 7,000 square meters, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the very first DFS retail space in Europe, features an exceptional array of luxury products. Here, discerning visitors to Venice will find the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, food and wines, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1222, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department

store, renovated by the renowned architect Rem Koolhaas, offers a world of fashion, luxury and craftsmanship and hosts a rich program of cultural events and art exhibitions. The ground floor is dedicated to the Venetian and national excellences and the courtyard is home to the café/restaurant AMO by Alajmo, embodying the real soul of Venice. And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking!

PHOTOS © MATTEO DE FINA @ DFS

The lifestyle department store T Fondaco by DFS offers the most iconic fashion brands, authentic craftsmanship and fine dining.

Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, this is ‘the’ go-to address for a one-stop shopping experience.

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>> T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

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TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Francis Model

Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickknacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; TuesSat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).

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CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Unique glass factory Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art: lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custom-made items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations. Fondamenta Navagero, 76. Murano. T: 041 739922- 5275284. info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

Minimalist lines, precious quilted nappa with an enamelled logo and fashion-forward details make this GIORGIO ARMANI shopper a statement accessory.

PRADAwww.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5

BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5

SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5

www.bulgari.com. San Marco, BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINEwww.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com. Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

SALVADORIwww.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5


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LE and Marghera), it offers ND T E R endless entertainment, V O LT À BA IS O RBA FRU RAMO from the children’s adventure play area to TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer DE ORO T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS Audemars Piguet CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, The recently renovated 16th century building A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, alleria Internazionale that extends over 7000 sqm isRaA Dluxury shopping, A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN CA A L C O RT E LE free parking, store map and guides, multilingual San Lazzaro NO d'Arte Moderna V food and cultural destination. Surrounding a Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, B ATA G I A AR VA IS Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti customer service, wheelchair accessible, free central courtyard, the store offers the best in made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat CORTESE CAMPIELLO STELLA Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra CORTE NOVA leading Italian and international fashion brands, 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Santi charge), dogsApostoli admitted to the outlet village accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL TI (admission in stores depending LE OZ G A B F4 DELLA CASON on the store Cà d'Oro spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich line 2 (Rialto stop). Map R IE ZI LI policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann CAMPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily Damiani N curated cultural program on the 4th floor and SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M LE Luterana ID S C UO 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco W A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, LE E the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In LL CA Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and CAMPO partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will S.MARIA NOVA CAMPO DELLA CAL T: 0421 5741. Off Map innovative L E technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette San alsoCassiano offer an instant detax at the cash desk when LAR PESCARIA GA N ZI A N G. G N CA A L L designed to highlight the brilliance d’illusione’ setting DA SA the payment is made by credit card, the first IN A S A LI ZA Santa Maria Palmanova Outlet Village RIO CAMPO of its stones. www.damiani.com. Basilica San Marco, 1320 DE of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. dei SAN CASSAN dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA Just one hour from Venice, PalmanovaI MOutlet IR (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041Santi 2770661.Giovanni Vaporetto line 2e(San BECARIE San offers Giovanni Paolo AC www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei CA C A LL O Village 90 stores with the trendiest brands LL E LI CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED Marco-Vallaresso FO R stop). Map F4 Grisostomo CA E C Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ L E ED discounted by up to 70% and open all year MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ CAS EL TEL TI LI DELLA A BO line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3 BELLA VIENNA TA around: Adidas-Reebok,Teatro Aldo Bruè,Malibran Baldinini, Nardi Venezia E PAOLO CAMPO CA LL E DE SAN GIACOMETO LE ER Chiesa Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, BE A combination of a love of precious stones and a dell’Ospe C CORTE SECONDA DE AM L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and CARAMPANE SA L passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s NS LO BA RB AR ON di Rialtomany others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In IA DE LE DE I TO LE jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, CA di Outlet Village RA addition to shopping,Casa Palmanova MP Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet O CAMPO the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open AN CAMPIELLO E Marco Polo RIALTO makes you discover a land full of history and With DEL more restaurants, SOL than 150 stores, cafés andNUOVO Fontego daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. dei the Tedeschi taste: picturesque hills of the Collio region, visitors can find their O favourite labels with price Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line AN V A CA C. D LR L L Sant’Aponal E the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, ED EL F reductions ofETup to 70%, all year round, and C .M EL AD 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5 ONT A RT P IO EGO MB GH IN E Ponte O N RU GO the historical sites further discounts at the annual summer and winter close to the Karst plateau with D. P SA CAL N G FO LE G ALL SA CAMPO di Rialto CORTE E IA CAMPO N IOVNDA Z CORTE ZO AN ME DO sales. 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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass andLA GRAZIA ISOLA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade,ISOLA printed or recycled SANfabrics CLEMENTE shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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San Francesco di Paola

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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

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La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

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San Giovanni Battista in Bragora S C H I AV

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, andAcharacters from the GIU D Eelves CC ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, Santissimo Redentore the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santa Croce among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Hundertwasser' Garden Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

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Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

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LAR

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

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Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques San Vidal Palazzo Corner DURO and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offersCa' Giustinian della Ca’Granda Ponte Pisani an array ofdell'Accademia 'unique' locationsPalazzo where you ssanti Gritti Gallerie Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo can indulge in an authentic Genovese Collezione Peggy shopping San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Gregorio Santa Maria della Salute and accessories that you'll be hard put to Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese find elsewhere. While strolling through its Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latterSpirito endows this city with Santo its characteristic vibrancy… CAL

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Teatro la Fenice

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Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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MA RZ AR IA

VE

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CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

Sa

INI

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CAMPIELLO STELLA

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CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

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San Salvador

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Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

San Beneto San Luca

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Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

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Palazzo Fortuny

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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

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CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

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Sant’Aponal

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

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ADVERTORIAL

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5 Nicolao Atelier An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that

comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. Only Sat 3-10 February and Sun 4-11 February open 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm. www.nicolao.com. Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051. Map E2 Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268 Map E4

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). www.themerchantofvenice.com. T: 041 2960559. Map F4

OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim.

OCCHIALI D’AUTORE

www.otticamantovani.it San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427.

ALBERTO SARRIA MASKS Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.

NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality Made in Italy materials. www.teodamar.com San Marco, 2995-2996 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 345 0133552. More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29


SHOPPING Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www. salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri

Glass art in Murano Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request. Fondamenta Navagero, 50. Murano. T: 041 739329. info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com

30 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the

Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com


STROLLING THROUGH BURANO In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive

for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187).

GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you'll be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish. HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.whereitalia.com/venice w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31


PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

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home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

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As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

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FUN, FOOD AND DESIGNER LABELS FOR UP TO 70% LESS. . . IT CAN ONLY BE NOVENTA DI PIAVE DESIGNER OUTLET

shop, eat, recharge, repeat Shop until you drop in the beautiful surroundings of Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet. Inspired by Venetian palazzos, this is shopping in style. Here you’ll find everything from must-have trend essentials to key designer pieces for spring, always for up to 70% less.

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At Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet you’ll find hundreds of incredible designer labels. From classic coats to statement shoes, browse soughtafter designer brands like Armani, Coach and Versace for less. With new collections arriving all the time, we’ve got styles for everyone.

recharge

Relaxing is easy at Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet. Stay connected and share your purchases thanks to free wi-fi. Smartphone run out of battery? No problem, get back up to speed at one of our complimentary charging points, and if you’ve got the kids with you they can let off steam in our play area.

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The centre is home to much more than fashion brands: discover irresistible jewellery, accessories and beauty from brands like L’Occitane en Provence, Samsonite and Swarovski.

tax free shopping Non-EU residents can enjoy a tax refund on items purchased in our centre. Visit our onsite tax refund office for more information.

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fashion passport Present this page at Guest Services and claim your Fashion Passport giving you an additional 10% off outlet prices. getting here We’re just 40 minutes from Venice. Take advantage of our convenient daily shuttle bus services from Venice, Mestre and Marghera. We also have free parking. Go online to plan your journey.

mcarthurglen.it/noventadipiave

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ABOVE RIGHT: 1. GUESS, 2. IXOS, 3. FENDI (OUTLY) LEFT: 4. REBEL QUEEN BY LIU•JO, 5. COCCINELLE, 6. JOSEPH (CORSO ROMA)

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Pull up a chair at one of our many cafés or restaurants. Start the day with a pastry and your favourite coffee, enjoy a light bite or indulge in a three course meal. From pasta to burgers, there’s always something tempting on the menu.


DINING

Dining in history Picture dinner at Arva, a restaurant located in a 17th century building overlooking the Grand Canal, where amongst frescoes by Tiepolo you can sample dishes created by Davide Oldani. By Chiara Zaccarelli

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or lovers of gossip, this is the place where the Clooneys spent their wedding night, for stat enthusiasts, it’s one of Italy’s two seven star hotels and one of six in the world, and for art lovers it’s the ‘palazzo’ where Tiepolo lived and a place where, if you’re lucky, you can sleep in a suite with ceiling paintings by the artist. The Aman hotel is all this and more. Located inside the historic Palazzo Papadopoli, a masterpiece of neo-Renaissance style, it is an emblem of true luxury, more understated than ostentatious. In spite of being located on the Grand Canal, just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the palazzo, whose hallmark feature is discretion, was conceived as a (luxurious) private home. The creative consultant at the hotel’s Arva restaurant is none other than starred chef Davide Oldani who, together with 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

executive chef Dario Ossola and sous chef Dario Boschetti, pursues a culinary philosophy inspired by tradition and developed with creativity, exalting raw materials and returning authenticity to flavours, using raw materials that are of the highest quality, and are sourced from local farmers, fishermen and breeders. In fact, Arva means ‘cultivated land’ in Latin. On the menu, depending on the season, Davide Oldani’s creations are marked by a special symbol and include Saffron risotto, Monkfish, braised fennel and ‘Salmoriglio’ sauce, Slow cooked suckling pig, apple kombucha and ginger spinach. >> Aman Venice San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo) T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of

Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35


TOP COFFEE AND PASTRY SHOPS most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. By Stefania Vida

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Caffè Florian Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www. caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele. www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www. rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Trattoria Do Forni The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4


DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3

Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Quadri

Met

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal,

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the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4

Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6


Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Glam

Dopolavoro

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Venissa

Il Ridotto

Osteria da Fiore

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

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SIGHTSEEING |

Beyond the legend In addition to its irrefutable beauty, the Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s must-see landmarks. An iconic attraction steeped in folklore. By Giulia Minero

A

fter leaving St. Mark’s Square and continuing onwards in the direction of the Doge’s Palace, stopping for a photo on the ancient Ponte della Paglia is an absolute must. From here you can see the Bridge of Sighs, one of the corners of Venice most widely photographed by tourists. These days, it is considered the bridge of love par excellence. It is said that if a couple in a gondola kisses as they pass under the bridge at sunset as the bells of St. Mark's toll, their love will last forever, but in fact, its history is anything but romantic. Its origins date back to 1589, the year in which Doge Marino

Grimani commissioned the building of a new structure on the opposite side of the canal hosting the Doge’s Palace to be used as a prison. The prime objective of the new complex was to safeguard the palace from the onerous duty of hosting prisoners within its walls. This elegant Baroque bridge in white Istrian stone was designed by Antonio Contin and his son Bernardo, and served a very practical purpose. It was used to connect the Doge’s Palace to the building of the New Prisons. As a result, in the centuries that followed it became known as the ‘Bridge of Sighs’, a name coined in the 19th century by Romantic poet Lord Byron who, in turn

The Bridge of Sighs is one of the most romantic corners in Venice

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was inspired by another legend. In fact, it is said that prisoners who crossed the bridge on the way to their prison cells or the execution chamber would sigh as they caught their last glimpses of Venice through the bridge’s tiny windows. An inescapable fate because, under the rule of the Doges, imprisonment lasted until death. Today, the tour of the interiors of the bridge is included in the “Secret Itineraries” of the Doge’s Palace tour. This guided tour, only available through booking, also offers visitors a chance to admire the interiors of the palace and the prisons, including the horrendous Torture Chamber and the deeply feared Interrogation Room. >> palazzoducale.visitmuve.it/en


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE

Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www.canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant

When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect?

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the

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EDITOR'S TIP

top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini. it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951

by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Museo Correr 42 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various

| SIGHTSEEING

aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

FREE ADMISSION TO STATE MUSEUMS

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, setdesign, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-

Ca' d'Oro Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Venice, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 3 March. Gallerie dell’Accademia www.gallerieaccademia.org Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità) Open Mon 8.15-2pm and Tues-Sun 8.15-7.15pm. Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro (Giorgio Franchetti Gallery at Ca’ d’Oro). www.cadoro.org Cannaregio, 3932. Open Mon 8.15am-6.45pm and Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm.

Museo d’Arte Orientale (Oriental Art Museum). www.arteorientale.org Santa Croce, 2076. Open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Venezia (National Archaeological Museum of Venice) www.polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it Piazzetta San Marco, 17/52. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo di Palazzo Grimani www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo Nazionale di Villa Pisani (National Museum Villa Pisani) www.villapisani.beniculturali.it Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra (20 minutes from Venice) Open Tues-Sun 9am-5pm.

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PHOTO © JAN S. / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2019

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45


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Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

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Palazzo Fortuny

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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

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San Cassiano

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Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

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HI

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Soranzo Cappello

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TA

LA

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

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People Mover Venezia

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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

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NO

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LL

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OL

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A

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15

AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

TORCELLO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAMENTA

ISOLA CATERINA SANTA

SANTA

DI

DI CATERINA

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100 m

MESTRE

TORCELLO

BURANO

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 13

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

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ZA

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RO

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Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

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Nuove Fondamenta delle

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Japan Pavilion

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United States Pavilion

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FELICE

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GA

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Rio

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LE

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VERDI

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RIO TERRÀ

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SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

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MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

E

LL

RIO CROCE

STRETTA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

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LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

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ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

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VECCHIA

LA

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DE

FA R S

ET

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TE

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DEL

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COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

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SAN FONDAMENTA

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TRAGHETO

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DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

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C.

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

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CALLE

LARGA

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SANTA

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GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

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LA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

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DE

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DEI CALLE

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DE

DE

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CRISTO

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DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

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SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

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LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

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FONDAMENTA

VENIER

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CALLE

LL

CA

FONDAMENTA

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CA

O

CA

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GE

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NO

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IE

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TI

EN

C

AM

BO

D

LI

N

SA

LL

BB

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TA

NT

EN

Parco delle Rimembranze

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Santa Croce

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CA

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M

DEI

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TERÀ

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CA

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OC

C.

CR

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RD

GRANDE

GI

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RIO

IA

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SA

TA

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

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PONTE

EN

E

CALLE

AM

ND

AL

CORTE

FO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Giardini

S. Giorgio

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FIANCO

CENETTE

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CALLE

ALDI

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SAN GIACOMO

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IST

LL

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CE

R L C

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NA

RI

DE

MA

ION

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QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

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EN

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

BB

IAN

RE

RI

CO

SA

SE

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

LARGA

MARAFONI

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SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

FONDAMENTA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

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OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LE

CALLE FRIZIER

GARI

EPPE

C. LOREDANA

I S ET

AN

CALLE

ENA

CALLE

DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

RAMO DE

CALLE

ND

CALLE

E

LE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

DI

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

SAN

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

IA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

'EU

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

TA

CALLE

S C H I AV

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

DE

Spirito Santo

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

DEGLI

VERONA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEI FORNI

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Arsenale

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

100 m

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

RI

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

a

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

LARGA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

BEMBO

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

Museo Correr

SALUTE

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

AI

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

CALLE

DE

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

CALLE

DOLERA

DIETRO

FABBRICHE

CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

VAPORETTO

LE

GALIZZI

STURION

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

X

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ALLO

CALLE CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

ZEN

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

DEI

DEL

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

CATERINA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEL

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

CALLE

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan CALLE

OGNISANTI

DEL

San Felice

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

LE

IA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

O

DE

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

C.

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

ER

NA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

IS

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

MORETTI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

D

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

N

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

MA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5

Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4

Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC Villa Barbarich – Via Molino E CITY GUIDE Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)

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