Where Magazine Venice Sep 2018

Page 1

VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

SEPTEMBER 2018

VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

LIDO DI VENEZIA An island, a town and a jet setter’s paradise

THE VENICE GLASS WEEK

From 9 to 16 September, more than 180 events in Venice, Murano and Mestre

Hollywood Lagoon Welcome to the world capital of film

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS



Venice September 2018 6

HOT DATES

14

the guide

GIFT GUIDE Francis Model

16 SHOPPING

The Merchant of Venice offers a wide range of eau de parfums, contained in exclusive bottles celebrating the artistic tradition of Murano glassmaking.

BAGARON C A M PA LT O MESTRE

32 DINING

Chef Giovanni Ciresa returns to the Lagoon with a new menu and a new brigade to revitalize the Bauer Restaurant Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA D

38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

E

A

IAN

OND

ROT

CAN

LA

GA

DE

LAR

LE

LE

CAL

CAL

O ITEL CAP

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E DEL

G PIAV LAR

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HIA

ROS

CC

GA

VE

A MASEN LA

DE

CALLE

NA

ERI

stol

i

CALLE

ti Apo San

I

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE LE

STEL LA CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

NO

FOR DEL LE CAL

TEST A E DE

CALL

SALIZADA

DOSE E DEL CALL

O

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

LA

SO

TAR

ADI

DE

DEL

FRU

C.

PAR

LE

DEL

CAL

C.

LE

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

BALBI CALLE

ILE APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

DEL

EI BAS

DEL CAL LE

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

A N M

RC

O

SALUTE

NI

Punta della Dogana

RE

AI

SA

LO

CATECUMENI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

O SANTO

FONDAME

TE ZAT TA EN

San

AM

ND

FO

BRAG

TA

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

I

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

Zattere

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo AM

EN

TA

SA

N

BIA

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O

FO

Sant'Eufemia FO

SA

NT

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ITE

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CALL

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AM

EN

TA

CR

OC

ND

AM

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TE

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LL

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CA

MP

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O

CA

MP

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DI

MA

RT

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E

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CA

LL

LE

MA

SO

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FO

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N

D

AM

Le Zitelle

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Giudecca Palanca EN

'OLIO

E CON

AM

E DELL

CALL

ND

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ND

RI

RETT

ANE

I

LAVR

OBIL

TE

DE LE ERBE

FO

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CALL

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DE

CALLE

RI

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

I

ZZ

ce

PO

Dol

DO

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

LI

R

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

SAN A CHI VEC

A

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

CA

C. NI

O

VAN GIO

L’ARC

SAN LE

CAL

E DE CALL RUG

LA

LLE

CA

DI

CA

I

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION

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CORTE

CAL

CAT

TA

SAN

ARINI

MP

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GA

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lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

CA

de

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IA

Can ale

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ND

FO

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DE

ICE

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CA

SAN

NTA

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ULI PRI

LLE

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CA

DEL

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CA LLE

DE CAL LE

RO

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

C.

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE

O

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

A

ADIN

SAN TA

CAM PO

A ROS LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

A

DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

E

LE

RT

CAL

CO TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

DA

TRA GHE TO

DEL

C.

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

ORB I DEI

CAL LE

LE

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI CAR FOS RÀ TER

Moise

RIO

SA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

Salute

San Gregorio

RIO

GNESE

LO

DEGLI

I

Palazzo Genovese

CALLE DEL BASTION

FONDAMENTA

SANT'A

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

MENTA

Palazzo Ducale

MO

RIVA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

FONDA

O

VONI SCHIA

VALLAR

CALLE

NANI

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

RC

Museo Correr

CALLE

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DURO RE DORSO

DEL

GR LE

INA TI

DE

RM

TA

CA

EN

AD

AM

LIZ

ND

SA

FO

DO ON SEC A’

CRI STO DEL CAL LE

LI LIPO E STRE

CALL

CALL

FON

COLOM

IO MEG E DEL CALL

NO

E

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

A

LE

AD

CAL

LIZ SA

UE

GA LAR LE CAL

TER RIO

O ROCC

NESI ALBA E DEI

TA

MUN EGH E

CALL

E DI

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

CANONI DE LA

CA

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SIONE

FOND

ZZA

SAN

ASCEN

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

LARGA

E

PIA

CALLE

EREMIT

CALLE

MARCO

O

MENTA

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

SAN

o

O

FONDA

EDIO REM

San Gio

DEL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

ETT

OTTI

FRUTARIOLI

LE CAL

LARGA

Palazz

EOL

ALL CAV

ORS

DEI CORTELL

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

C.DEI

CA

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

Rio Del

DEL

A ENT

C.

DAM

DEL TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DE LE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

VAPOR

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

DEL FORNO

E BIAN CALL

Bacino Orseolo

CARRO

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

DEL

C.

CALL

ETTI,

ET RS

FA

TE

RIO

BINA

CALLE

GO

FONTE

SALITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

CALLE

QUERIN

,

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA

LLE CA

TI,

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

TE LE

LO EL RI E LL CA RO SA

A

CI

LU

TA

SA

NT A

LO

EN

CO

AM

De

e

al

an

C

O TIM RIT

MA

O

RT

PO

NE

ZIO

RE

DI

I

IN

ZUL IAN

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

CA TAS

San Giuliano

BRI FAB

FON

SARTOR

CALLE

À

O

SAN

GIO ROLO DELL’O

TER

O SAT MUS

I HIER SPEC

ZZ

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

LE CAL

IA DAR SPA

GA

LIO

O

DEI

RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

LUCATE LLO

C.

ARIA MARZ

STR

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CAP

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

DEI

DEL

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

E DEI CALL

LE

E C.

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

SAN

LICINI

ERIA SEL CAS

DEL

AZZ

CALLE

MOIS

SA

Sa

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

LI

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

DA

CORTE

MEZ O

LE CAL

C. DEL

NA

GIAZZO

RUBBI

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

NA

PISCI

XXII MARZO

A

CALLE

C. LARGA

CORTE

BALO TE

LE CAL

I

A DE

IOL

ERIA

PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CASTEL

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

DE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

C.DE

BRI FAB

VERO

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO

CAL LE

CALL GABRI E

G. GALLIN

CALLE

I

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

ERI

CO

LARGA

LIO

DEI

LA

MINELL

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

OL

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

SAN

r

LE CAL

do

DE

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

CALLE

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

BOT

E

CALLE

DA

lva

C.

CALLE

RTA

AC

CORTE GRAGOLINA

C.

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

DEI

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

Teatro Malibran

SALVAD OR

LE

ONA

CALLE

CAOTO

DE

IZA

SAN

MAR ZARI A DEL

Sa

I

GA

CAMPIELLO STELLA

N

WID

LE

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

n

MA

LAR

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

S.Canciano

X

Sa

NDE LOCA CALLE

SSIN

ASSA

Santa Maria del Giglio

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

LE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CORTE DEL

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

Rio

A LUC SAN

CALLE

VER

CALLE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

FONTEG

San Salvador

C. DE LE COLONNE

AI

RAMO

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE

DEL

LE CAL

San Fantin

R

I

R

RIOL

SAL

BO BEM

RO TEAT LE CAL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

TEATRO BON CAR

SAN

LARG A

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

DEL

ra

FRUTA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SALI ZZA DA

Rialto

LE CAL

RO

E VENIE

CAL

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

LA

ze

SARTORI

TERÀ

O

QUE

A

ET

CIN

E

RIO

DE

DI

A

C.

DOL

E

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

COCCO

CAN

OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

LL

TOS

NER COR

CA

CALL

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

MARCO

ETIE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

E

ZEN

CALLE

DE

E CALL

E CALL

en

PIC

ND

ON

FO

SIM SAN ENT A DAM FON

ra ze en

m

Sco

O

TIM

RIT

MA

O

ULI

C. DEL

N

om

LE

RT

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

RIO

CAF

Canal Grande

SALIZADA

SI

ON

STU

DEL

CHIES

UZZI

E CALL

CALL

LE

DELLA

CAPP

ENTA

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORE

DEL

CAL

CALLE

CALLE

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

DAM

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

San Maurizio

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

VE

CALL

San Giacomo di Rialto

ANG

LE

GNES

NO

REA

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DEI

TI OCA

Santo Stefano

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

E

GO

TEA TR O

MAN

NT'A

PRI

CAL LE

À

C.SA

VA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

NANI

ENT A

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

de ran

AVV

BOT EGH E

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia DEL PISTOR

DAM

San Silvestro

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

CAMPO PISANI

. S.AND

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

SI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CALLE

NO

CAL

NO RAVA

DEL

DEL

SAN

Palazzo Loredan San Vidal

FOND

Santa Sofia

DA

LE

ETA

RUGH

TER

Sc

TE

RINA

FON

DEI

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

LE

le

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

MUT I

RIO

. NARI

CATE

CAL

E CALL

LE

RA

ZI

na

EN

CALLE

TA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

GALIZ

DE

ST

PAR

PO

AM

ENTA

FON

CAL

NE

ND

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

S. Samuele

CALLE

STU A

CAL

ZIO

LA

DEI

RE

DEL

A

DI

CA’

CAL

FOND

CRO SER A

DAM

SAN

HE BRIC FAB

DE

BOT A

C.

E UEL SAM

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

ZEL

ttim a

N

DON

ari

MI

Sant’Aponal

DE L

IER

San Trovaso

IN

ANI GRIM

OZZE CARR

CHI TODES

LE

OL

E CALL

S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele E DE CALL

AP

LE

LA

FORNO

eM

RA

DEL

ion

ND

ERA

DA IZA SAL

Ca' Rezzonico

TR

DE

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

E DOL

CA’

C. DEI

Ca

TA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

LE SAMUE

DEI LAVRANE

CAR

RIN PEST

SACCA

FO

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

FISOLA

LARGA

LE

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

SERA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

DE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

A S. PISCIN

CAL LE

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

ZATTER

CHIESA

' VE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

S. Toma' SX

MENTA

DELLA

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

al G

SESTIERE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

TER

Sant'Angelo

FAL

LINI

EN

S.Silvestro

Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

E CRO

LON

RIO

LE CAL

San Tomà

FONDA

CALLE

L’AG NEL LA

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

ENTA

AM

CAMPO APONAL

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

DE

LE

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

C.

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAL

DAM

IA

ND

DON SAN PER

CALLE BERNARDO

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D

A

LET

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

RAMO

O

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Ca' Rezzonico

I

IC

DE

E DEL CALL

SANT

ER

RUG

SCA

O

TE

ZI

CAMPO SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BON

PON

TIOZ

DE INC INI

DEL

CALL

OGNI

IS

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

A

San Barnaba

FON

E AL

NT AR

San Felice

LE

HETT

O

M

FO

CAL

TRAG

L’ASE

TA

Santa Fosca

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

E DEL

E DE

EN

CALL

SER

AM

CA

CA’BCAL ONVLE

C.

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

OR

CALL

. DE

TER

NT

Accademia

FOND

ZAT

CO

C.

CRO

TA

LA

LE

EN

DE

CAL

ND

NA

SAN

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISAN

NTA

TA

a de

rto

MADONA

S. Basilio

TE

DO

nde Canal Gra

ENTA

EN

nn

CAL LE

DE LA

I

ALE

RAMO

PRET

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

TI

AME

L

BOL

TTO

FONDAM

FOD

AM

do

ll'O

AM

GO RTE OPO SOT

C.

CAMPO DEI FRARI

TTO

E DEI

DD

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

GHE

CALL

FOMO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DE

TOMÀ

ORE

N

FO

CALLE

TALO

D

E TRON

ER

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

N

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

AL

SAN POLO

DEI PUTI

IO

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

BESAG

ND

Ma

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

E ZANE

CALLE

IAN

DA SAN

TERÀ

SAN

LE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

AST

DORSODURO

OCHE

E

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALL

TRA

E

SEB

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

SAN

CALLE SAN BASILIO

RIO

CAL

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

N

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

A ENT CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

FO

lla

C.

ESI

LA

CAMPO SAN STIN

DEL

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

C.

MEZ

LE

del

E LE

CALL

DE

E

E RENIE

DEL

o de

S.Stae

CAL

min

I

Rio

DAM

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

I

LA TT

À D E

SA

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

LA

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

IAT

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

DE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

BR

LE

TOR

TA

CAL

TIN

EN

FON

DON

TI

TER

E C AN

La Maddalena

L’ISOLA

DEL

NI

AM

TA

R

C. DE

DIA

ND

OT

EN

San Rocco

Mu

RIO TERA’

AR

LAR

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

DE

DE LA VIDA

LE

GU

LE

IA

CIM

N

le

PAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

DAR O

de

SSA

O

Angelo Raffaele

RAMO

A

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

R

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CAL

I

oS taz

NE CALL

RO

RIELO

LORENZ

AM

TERA’

CALLE CAZZA

FON

RAM

CIM

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

I

NTA

FO

C. SAN

LE

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

RUGA BELA

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALLE

i

RE

OLO

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

LAC

San Pantalon

USE

ME

DE L’OGIO

L' ARZE

A A MART SANT

NIC

CALLE CASE NUOVE

CALLE

TA DE

TA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

I

EO

DA

cin

SIM

CAL

NUOVO

CALLE CONTARINA

CA

AMEN

AMEN

MATTA DI CA’

LA

tini

RAG

FOND

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

L

BAR

N

I

a

S.Marcuola

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

SA

CERER

DEI FONTEGH

icordi

FO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

O

Miser

ETTI MOR

GA

A OV

DEI

NA

DE

LA

CALL

BASEG

RIO

della

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

RUGA VECCHIA

RZ

E DEL PISTO

San Marcuola

I

LAR

NU

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

LE

DE

ete

CALLE

MENTA

O

LE CAL

A

MADON

LA

C.

LE

DE

CA

E

IO

CALLE DE LA LACA

A SAN

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

Rio

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

DEL REMER

ZO

gh

IZAD

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

IA

RIO

CAMPIELLO

BIAS

DI

BAR

TA

LIS

ND

O SAL

RD

Rio

CALL

San Leonardo

RIO

FO

ne

OTT

CAL

A

CALLE

RT

CAL

PAZ CAM

LE

ESI

Ma

ICO

EONARDO

A

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Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

An island, a town and a nature reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise.

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Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer

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The Film Festival marks the arrival of international Hollywood stars attending this major extravaganza in the lagoon. In the photo, Susan Sarandon arriving at the Hotel Excelsior (2017). Photo © Shutterstock.

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YEARS OF MOVIE STARS

From 29 August to 8 September, the lagoon city is transformed into the world capital of cinema.

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This month's round-up of shows, PORTO MARGHERA art exhibitions and events.

From 9 to 16 September, more than 180 events in Venice, Murano and Mestre

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6 HOT DATES THE VENICE GLASS WEEK

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If you are reading this magazine, you are very likely to be a “High-Quality Traveler”. This is because you are using quality tourist information to guide you on your stay in Venice.

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@whereitalia.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI MEDIA GROUP) MANAGING DIRECTOR

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Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Amal Angelotti, Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, www.rominvenice.com), Simona P.K. Daviddi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida, Chiara Zaccarelli ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici DESIGNERS Floriana di Maio, Joy Lacanlale WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara

Fonzi (redazione@ whereitalia.com), Fabio Lancini (art direction) ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2018 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.or Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (advertising@whereitalia.com) ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto (amministrazione@whereitalia.com) PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

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That’s why friends are needed in every location. To replace or back up a reliable source of tourist information. Where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, what shows and exhibitions are on, what museums to see in the short time available, and what you can find close to the city to enable you to understand Italy better. Where® was created for this very purpose (no less than 82 years ago!); still today, further enhanced by its digital editions, it remains the complete and reliable information source preferred by High-Quality Travelers. In Italy we are talking about approximately 12 million travelers each year, around 20% of the total. Some of these High-Quality Travelers spend more than €1,000 a day in this country, a huge market for those who are able to interpret their tastes and requirements. We have been doing this for almost a century now. Rely on us. For a high-quality Italian experience.

REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC NO. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

Top in town

Ponte dei Sospiri

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as


MORE AT PAGE 38 MAP PAGES 46-47

Canal Grande

Palazzo Ducale

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4

PHOTO LUIGI FARDELLA © SHUTTERSTOCK

a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4

Teatro La Fenice

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site.

Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.

Doge's Palace

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES SEPTEMBER

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

6 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018


SEPTEMBER EVENTS

9 16 SEPTEMBER

SEPTEMBER

GLASS EXTRAVAGANZA Featuring more than 180 events, including exhibitions, guided tours, workshops and performances, The Glass Week (2nd edition) pays tribute to glass art, one of the highlights of the lagoon. This event will include the participation of important foundations, art galleries and museums but also glass factories, furnaces, companies, artists and collectors. The initiatives – spread across the archipelago from Mestre to Murano – include several unique events, such as guided tours to furnaces, generally off-limits to the public, themed aperitivi and dinners, and the 2018 edition of La Bocca del Fuoco, a night run (or walk) through the ‘calli’ and over the bridges of Murano along a candle-lit route that traverses six fully operational furnaces (15 September).The Glass Week will kick off with the exhibition ‘Mario Bellini per Murano’ at the Murano Glass Museum. This will be followed with the inauguration of the exhibition titled ‘M.V.M. Cappellin Glassworks and the Young Carlo Scarpa 1925-1931’ at the Giorgio Cini Foundation’s Le Stanze del Vetro. 9-16 September 2018 The Venice Glass Week (2nd edition) Several locations in Venice, Mestre and Murano www.theveniceglassweek.com 9 September-2 December 2018 Mario Bellini per Murano Museo del Vetro di Murano museovetro.visitmuve.it 9 September 2018-6 January 2019 The M.V.M. Cappellin Glassworks and the Young Carlo Scarpa 1925-1931 Le Stanze del Vetro (Fondazione Giorgio Cini, Island of San Giorgio Maggiore) www.lestanzedelvetro.org

The M.V.M. Cappellin Glassworks and the Young Carlo Scarpa 1925-1931 Vase in red glass paste and cup in yellow and red glass paste, 1930 ca. Photo: Enrico Fiorese w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7


WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ART

SEPTEMBER CRAFTSMANSHIP

7 6

TINTORETTO, THE SUPERSTAR OF THE LAGOON

MANMADE

He is the most Venetian of all Renaissance artists, commissioned by doges and aristocrats to decorate the city’s palaces and churches: Jacopo Robusti, better known as ‘Il Tintoretto’, was capable of astonishing his peers, astounding El Greco, Rubens and Velasquez, and anticipating the sensitivity of contemporary artists. Now, 500 years after his birth, Venice is set to pay tribute to the great Renaissance master with the ‘Tintoretto 500’ project. Two concurrent events: the exhibition at Palazzo Ducale tells the story of Tintoretto’s later career with a magnificent monographic exhibition, while Venice’s Galleria dell’Accademia hosts a section of masterpieces concentrating on the first ten years of the artist’s working life and the context in which his training took place.

◄ Homo Faber is the first major exhibition dedicated to the finest European craftsmanship, an international cultural event to showcase the contemporary and traditional creations of master artisans and their link to the world of design. This project, developed by a team of world-class architects, designers and SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER creators, includes a series of exhibits that allow the public to experience fine craftsmanship in a new way thanks to live demonstrations and state-of-the art virtual reality technology. From jewelry to bespoke bicycles, from the rarest trades to the most highly specialized, a celebration of the creative flair of manual workmanship.

TINTORETTO 500: “Tintoretto 1519-1594”, Palazzo Ducale “Il giovane Tintoretto”, Gallerie dell’Accademia di Venezia. www.mostratintoretto.it

Homo Faber. Crafting a More Human Future Fondazione Giorgio Cini – Island of San Giorgio Maggiore. www.homofaberevent.com

SEPTEMBER 2018

JANUARY 2019

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www.potpourri.it

San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810-1811/m Tel. +39 041 5221332

FASHION · HOME · MAN · LIFESTYLE

8 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996



WHERE NOW | FOCUS

From 29 August to 8 September, the lagoon city is transformed into a Mecca of international cinema. A truly glamorous extravaganza that enlivens the Lido with exclusive premieres, auteur films, Hollywood stars, gossip and paparazzi. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

Venice. Seventy Five Years of MOVIE STARS Chiara Zaccarelli Travel Editor Where ÂŽ Italia 10 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018


T

he Lido is a small island that stretches for 12 km between the lagoon of Venice and the Adriatic sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. In addition to being one of the few islands of the lagoon that has real streets – so you can get around by car, the Lido also has a small tourist airport. This is an airport that over the years has witnessed the landing of VIPs and celebrities, en-route to the famous Venice Film Festival, held annually on the Lido between the last week of August and the first week of September. The first edition of the festival was held at the Excelsior hotel in 1932. However, as the festival’s reputation grew, it became necessary to build a separate, equally prestigious building. As a result, the Palazzo del Cinema, which is the location still used as the main headquarters of the event, was built between 1937 and 1938. Over the years, thousands of international actors and celebrities have sat on its armchairs and graced its red carpet located outside the building.

PHOTO © ASAC

A LITTLE BACKGROUND HISTORY As previously mentioned, the Venice Film Festival was established in the 1930s. Following a period of upheaval, including the outbreak of the Second World War, it was finally acknowledged as an event of international scope due to its winning formula – a combination of superior artistic talent and the undisputed glamour that has characterized the event since its inception. Many of those who were destined to become the icons of the new international film scene made their debut at the Lido. In 1954, the star of the show was Marlon Brando, followed four years later, in 1958, by the supremely sexy Brigitte Bardot who captivated the public’s attention. Other rising stars of that era included Sophia Loren, Alberto Sordi and Vittorio Gassman. The social and political unrest of the ‘60s and 70’s impacted the festival negatively, and as a result, the competition was abolished and no prizes were awarded. However, this period saw the rise of important Italian and international stars and directors including Claudia Cardinale, Macello Mastroianni and Stanley Kubrick. In 1980, the event once again became competitive. Not only was its image finally restored and improved but, for the first time, emerging directors, including Emir Kusturica and Peter Greenaway, who later went on to achieve international fame, were given visibility. During these years, Venice hosted numerous major motion pictures– which either did not win awards or were simply featured in the ‘out-of-competition’ section. These included Woody Allen’s ‘Zelig’, Ridley Scott’s ‘Blade Runner’ and Sergio Leone’s masterpiece, ‘Once Upon a Time in America’. In the ’90s, the Asian film industry received numerous awards, confirming its role as a real powerhouse on the international market. Other directors including Robert Altman, Krzysztof Kieślowski, Abel Ferrara, Kathryn Bigelow and Jane Campion also triumphed at the Venice festival. The key event, at the end of the nineties, was the premiere of ‘Eyes Wide Shut’, a posthumous work by Stanley Kubrick, which brought the golden couple of that time, Nicole Kidman and Tom Cruise, to the shores of the Lido. In 2000, the line-up of films once again opened a window onto the international film scene with a particular focus on the culture of the Mediterranean Sea, a place of meeting and cultural exchange for millennia. In 2017, the movie world flocked to the lagoon to honour two of Hollywood’s greatest actors, Jane Fonda and Robert Redford who were awarded the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement. THE 75TH EDITION This year, the dates to mark in your diary are 29 August-8 September 2018. According to tradition the event kicks off on Wednesday with the opening ceremony, and ends on Saturday with the prize-giving ceremony where the Golden Lion and other prizes will be awarded.

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Vanessa Redgrave

This year, the Venice Film Festival is structured as follows: the Official Selection features the Venezia 75 section which includes a maximum of 20 feature films, presented as world premieres, competing for the Golden Lion. The Out-of-Competition section features works by established directors who have already participated at past editions, documentaries or films in which the spectacular dimension is accompanied by forms of expressive or narrative originality, and the Orizzonti section, dedicated to films representing the latest aesthetic and expressive trends in international cinema, with a particular emphasis on emerging directors or new talent. The Venice Classics will host world premiere screenings of the best restorations of classic films executed over the past year. Sconfini is a noncompetitive section that includes a selection of works of different genres, length and targets, while Venice Virtual Reality presents a maximum of 30 in or out-of-competition VR works, of any length or duration. Lastly, the independent, parallel sections, include the International Critics Week, featuring a maximum of eight debut works independently organized by a committee appointed by the National Syndicate of Italian Film Critics (SNCCI) in accordance with its own regulations, and the Giornate degli Autori, a series of 12 films, independently promoted by the Italian filmmakers

12 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

David Cronenberg

association. Additionally, numerous fringeevents, including retrospectives and tributes to famous people, are held during the event. The most important prizes are those related to the Venezia 75 section, including first and foremost the Golden Lion, awarded for the best film. Other noteworthy awards include the Silver Lion-Grand Jury Prize, the Silver Lion-Best Director Award, the Volpi Cup for the best actress or actor, the Best Screenplay Award, the Special Jury Prize, the Marcello Mastroianni award for the best emerging actor or actress and the Golden Lion Lifetime Achievement Award. Although at the time of going to press the list of films admitted has not yet been unveiled, the organizers have already announced that the Golden Lions for Lifetime Achievement will go to director David Cronenberg and actress Vanessa Redgrave. The Canadian horror auteur, known for a wide range of edgy films such as ‘The Fly’ and ‘Nude Lunch’, was praised for venturing beyond the constraints of the horror genre which marked his early career and for showing “that he wants to take his audiences well beyond the cinema of exploitation”. The British actress declared: “Last summer I was filming in Venice in ‘The Aspern Papers’. Many many years ago I filmed ‘La vacanza’ in the marshes of the Veneto. My character spoke every word in the Venetian dialect. I bet I am the only non-Italian actress

to act an entire role in Venetian dialect! Thank you a million dear Festival!”. This year’s director of the Festival is Biellaborn Alberto Barbera, who helmed the festival from 1998 to April 2002, and who, to-date, is the longest-serving director in the event’s history. The patron of this year’s festival is Pugliese actor Michele Riondino. In 2017, the festival saw an unusual role reversal with the appointment of a man rather than a woman as the host of the opening and closing events. Riondino took to the stage of Palazzo del Cinema’s Sala Grande on Wednesday evening, 29 August, during the inaugural ceremony and will host the closing ceremony on 8 September, when the Golden Lion and other official festival awards will be announced. The international Jury of the 75th Venice Film Festival will be headed by Mexican director Guillermo Del Toro, who won last year’s award for ‘The Shape of Water’, and two Golden Globes in 2018 as best director and best film. On the occasion of the 75th edition of the Festival, the Biennale asked Hotel Des Bains, a historic structure on the Lido, to host an exhibition on the history of the Film Festival, featuring materials from the Biennale’s Historic Archives, including photos, films, documents and mostly original, unpublished materials on the history of the International Festival of Cinematographic Art. (www.labiennale.org/en/cinema/2018)

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

WHERE NOW | FOCUS


REAL AND IMAGINARY LOCATIONS PALAZZO DEL CINEMA

THE CASINÒ

The monumental Palazzo del Casinò was built in 1938 and designed in Italian rationalist style, typical of the Fascist era. In stark contrast to its austere travertine stone façade, its spacious interiors were decorated with marble, mosaics and artistic Murano glass, and were used for gaming and entertainment. Its entrance, for those arriving from Venice, consisted of a long corridor decorated with mirrors and curtains connected to a monumental staircase and elevators. The Casinò was closed at the end of the 1990s, and, since that time, its spaces have mainly been used for festival-related press services, including press conferences and screenings for the public and industry members.

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

Famous Italian film director Federico Fellini once commented that “Entering Venice’s Palazzo del Cinema is like passing a final exam.” This imposing modernist building, opened in August 1937, was renovated several times over the years to adapt to the requirements of the increasing need for space. Today, the only remaining elements of the original building are its two rounded sides and lateral facades. Designed to accommodate up to 1,032 people, the Sala Grande – where the main screenings and award ceremonies of the Festival are held – underwent a series of transformations. The final phase, completed in 2011, involved a radical restoration of its interiors.

HOTEL EXCELSIOR

Overlooking the beach of Venice’s Lido, this 5-star resort, built in Moorish style, opened its doors to the public in July 1908 with a legendary opening party, attended by more than 30,000 Venetians and more than 3,000 international guests. Designed with the idea of recreating a luxury Venetian palace, the hotel soon became the destination of choice for the beau monde and Middle-European high society. Over the years, its roster of famous guests has included Winston Churchill, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman and the Aga Khan. The first edition of the Venice Film Festival was held on its terrace in 1932 and, today, with its 197 rooms and suites and exclusive private beaches, it continues to be ‘the place to be’ during the Film Festival. An interesting fact related to the theme of celluloid. One of the cult scenes of ‘Once Upon a Time in America’, where the two starring actors dine in a luxurious restaurant reserved exclusively for them, was shot in the Excelsior’s sumptuous Sala degli Stucchi. (www.hotelexcelsiorvenezia.com)

HOTEL DES BAINS

Another hotel which, at the beginning of the 20th century, irrevocably changed the face of the Lido, becoming an integral part of that aura of glamour with which Venice’s Film Festival is associated. Built in 1900, in Italian Liberty style, and despite being closed several times due to a series of unfortunate circumstances, the Des Bains was chosen as a set for a number of famous films including Anthony Minghella’s ‘English Patient’ and Luchino Visconti’s ‘Death in Venice’, a film adaption of the melancholy novel by Thomas Mann, who was also an aficionado of the hotel. In the last scene of the film, we see the lead actor slumped on a deck chair, silhouetted in the background by the luxurious white and blue beach huts that made this stretch of beach famous. Although the hotel is now closed, its communal rooms decorated in deco style, its art nouveau furniture and its long beach, reminiscent of the melancholy atmosphere of the 1930s, inevitably transport us to that period of intellectual vibrancy and exclusive luxury which have now been lost. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13


WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE Giulia Minero Lifestyle & News Editor Where ® Italia

FREYWILLE

Named for the beauty and grace of Greek goddess Aphrodite, this manchette bracelet from the ‘Passionate Russia’ collection features decorative enamel designs inspired by Russia’s vibrant folklore and cultural diversity. Sensual and feminine, the bangle’s harmonious shape is designed to wrap effortlessly around your wrist. www.freywille.com

◄ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE

The original ‘Mystic Incense’ fragrance, a sophisticated interpretation of incense, comes in an exquisite bottle featuring a green and brown design that references the age-old tradition of Murano glassmaking in a contemporary key. www.themerchantofvenice.com

OTTICA MANTOVANI

The brand’s exclusive eyewear collection with titanium and acetate frames has made it a household name worldwide. This unisex, ‘Lagoon-coloured’ ‘Rosi’ model is a part of the establishment’s own-name line of prescription eyewear and sunglasses. www.otticamantovani.it

◄ FRANCIS MODEL A one-of-a-kind item, this ‘Contarini’ bag is entirely handcrafted by Francis Model, a charming artisanal workshop located just steps from Rialto. Made from premium-quality calfskin, with a central partition, it is one of the accessories featured in the brand’s casual line. www.francismodel.it

14 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

RENÉ CAOVILLA

'Audrie' flat mule in blue velvet with contoured edges, a tapered design and a toe adorned with tiny tonal crystals. Dream-like shoes from the Venetian brand, handcrafted according to traditional, time-honoured Made in Italy techniques. www.renecaovilla.com


R O S A

M O C E N I G A

VENEZIA • VERONA • MILANO FIRENZE • ROMA • DUBAI THEMERCHANTOFVENICE.COM

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In the footsteps of Venetian merchants The navigators who made Venice famous were businessmen and explorers. They brought raw materials and innovative working techniques to Europe, also introducing the art of perfume-making. By Elena Binda

Y

ou say ‘The Merchant of Venice’ and you think of Shakespeare. You think of the legendary figure of adventurous traveler Marco Polo, an explorer and trader, who travelled the world for 24 years, returning to Venice with the riches and treasures that he had gathered along the way. And, since 2013, you think of a sophisticated brand of artistic perfumery, inspired by the city of Venice and its age-old trade with the East. The Merchant of Venice – a brand with a unique philosophy – offers a wide range of Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes, for the body and homecare, contained in exquisite bottles that, in turn, celebrate the artistic tradition of Murano glassmaking. The origin of its concept draws continuous inspiration from the rich

16 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

history of Venice. Between the 13th and 16th centuries, the lagoon city became the leading power in Europe thanks to the development of its trade routes which enabled it to import goods from the Far East which were then re-exported to Europe, and vice-versa. The Merchant of Venice’s ‘Murano Collection’ is inspired by the trade routes traversed by merchants to and from Byzantium, China, Africa or Spain. Each fragrance in the line pays tribute to one of the routes opened by Venetian merchants, evoking their spirit and fragrances. Highlights include ‘Flower Fusion’ infused with Damask Rose and Provence violet; ‘Sauve Petal’ with peach blossom and patchouli; ‘Byzantium Saffron’ with spicy notes of saffron; ‘Asian

Inspiration’ with white woody cedar; ‘Mandarin Carnival’ with citrusy notes; ‘Noble Potion’ which celebrates Mediterranean beauty and ‘Rosa Moceniga’ which references a rare species of rose imported from China. New entries include ‘Andalusian Soul’ infused with hints of Mediterranean herbs and Malaga wine, and ‘Mystic Incense’ which evokes the atmosphere of ancient Syria.

>> www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

The

Guidelines

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, a group of Muranese glass companies, in collaboration with the Regione Veneto, has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Promovetro Murano Consortium, which boasts a membership of fifty companies. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com www.promovetro.com

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Coin Excelsior, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.

Life’s like a film Pot-Pourrì is an original concept store that sells its own artisanal collection of clothing alongside a selection of Made in Italy and international brands skillfully mixed in keeping with the taste for which the brand is renowned. Its window displays, inspired by everyday living, change regularly according to the seasons or the style whims of its owners. In September, as a tribute to the International Film Festival, Pot-Pourrì will ‘dress’ for the occasion and present a collection featuring dresses and accessories inspired by movie stars, timeless icons of style like Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren. Housed in the historic Palazzo Regina Vittoria, formerly Goethe’s first residence in Venice, and later home to a luxury hotel just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Pot-Pourrì is divided into three sections: a women’s boutique, a more discreet men’s shop and a space dedicated to lifestyle and home design. www.potpourri.it Womenswear San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri), T: 041 2410990. Menswear San Marco, 1811 M (Ramo dei Fuseri), T: 041 5221332. Homeware San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria), T: 041 5201996.

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHITfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIORwww.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTIwww.albertaferretti. com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5

CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). Map F3 T: 041 5229946. DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

PRADAwww. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5

ETROwww.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

RENÉ CAOVILLA www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

FENDIwww.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4

CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4

GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOOwww.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON www.louisvuitton.com. San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

The embroidered carpet-stitch work details on these leather ETRO sneakers for him are reminiscent of a precious tapestry.

18 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5

FURLAwww.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

CHOPARDwww.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

BULGARIwww.bulgari.com. www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4

CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

MISSONI www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5


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A FR RAMO U TA cutting of the leather to the end creation. Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella. DEL M R IO L CORTE DEL ORA POZETO Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: CAMPIELLO DE ORO FO traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).DE LA MADONNA Anatema Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www. Map F4 RA Rossana Righini delights customers with her alleria Internazionale VALMARANA DEL PESTRIN DA CA L C O RT E LE micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle San Lazzaro scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, N O bags, d'Arte Moderna V B ATA G I A AR VA IS D’Oro CO CORTE Giuliana Longo dei line Mendicanti della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto hats and silk,Ca’ handmade ties. Her windows and CORTESE CAMPIELLO A milliner boasting a longstanding family 1 or STELLA 2 (San Marco stop CORTE or San display cases express the owner’s philosophy: NOVA Zaccaria stop). Santi Apostoli tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Map F4 “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. CAMPIELLO WIDMANN CAMPIELLO CAL Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond TI PASSION TIP AnatemaCà also stocks small L OZ DELLA CASON d'Oro ZI René Caovilla GABRIEELI the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10amS.Canciano Ospedale In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started SS. Giovann CA I E L L O dream Chiesa Evangelica Venetian aesthetic. Her shop isM Pthe 2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. N SAN CANCIANO D R IO C A L L AN E M working at family’s footwear factory, L E his Luterana ID S C hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst UO W T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà LE E LL revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. CA old-world furnishings, original panama hats stop). Map D4 CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA BasedC in Venice, he has collaborated with CAMPO DELLA and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The ALL San Cassiano E L ARG AN PESCARIA fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, A G C A N ZIcan find authentic Nyou . GA A only shop in town where S Francis Model A D L L IN A S A LI ZA Santa Maria Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning RI CAMPO O gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl IR www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo A CO CA C A LL Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers Lagerfeld. LL E CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED I del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 Lor 2 diktats of FO R Grisostomo CA E C has always remained faithful to the NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ L E ED who adore his creations include MU SANTI GIOVANNI Gwen Stefani, GIÀ CAS EL TEL (Rialto stop). Map F4 TI Made in Italy craftsmanship. LocatedDELLA just steps LI A BO Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica CAMPO from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes CA LL DE LE SAN GIACOMETO Macrì ER BE TIP His pumps inChiesa Venetian dell’Ospe Parker. E PASSION himself DtoCAMhis craft with pride and passion. CORTE SECONDA EL P San Giacomo This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other DEL MILION lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. CARAMPANE SA IEL LO Open daily www.francismodel.it. NS 10am-7.30pm. ON di Rialtobranch is located in Frezzeria - has been a DE I www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 BA RB AR IA DE LE TO LE San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. CA Casa di RA reference point for discerning Venetians since the 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoMP O CAMPO AN Vaporetto Map E3 CAMPIELLOline 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). E Marco Polo RIALTO 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, Vallaresso stop). Map F4 DEL SOL Fontego NUOVO classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by dei Tedeschi O Giovanna Zanella AN V CA RA C. D LLE their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open dailyC10amSant’Aponal EL E F DEL A D years, Venetian designer-cobbler .M A ONT For the pastGHten ET P IO EGO R MB Ponte7.30pm. LSan EN O RU Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041TIN522 GO D. P SA C A LLE Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive N G FO ALL SA G IA CAMPO di Rialto CORTE E CAMPO N IOVNDA Z CORTE LIZVaporetto line 1 (San Marco Z Ostop) Map F4• AN ME 9956. DO TREVISAN ZA CAMPO R SAN APONAL DEL NI NT E SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LA A lines of shoes for men and women at her LP DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIO E RA D CAMPO Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, NO X E L L workshop located just a stone’s throw fromRialto the Al Duca d'Aosta SAN LIO CA 1583. T: 041 522 8997. CAMPIELLO PIELLO San Silvestro CAMPO Each SANTA MARIA Rialto Bridge. pair is endowed with its own, SAL Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca DEI IZ A DE FORMOSA DA FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G L IO unrepeatable personality because they are oftenC PRETI boasts stores in six cities across the d’AostaDEInow ALIA Michele De Fina ZZO AL CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO LE Fontego Santa Maria L enhanced by a surprise element like touches region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, LARG select leather shoes, itsC.owner oversees A A CORTE DEL Santa Maria Triveneto DolfinOpen ManinARGHighly MA Formosa Palazzo BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO ZZ of nylon, cobra Palazzo heads, pistils or fringes. CORTE SABION CAMPO Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey IN eachI stage of the working process from the DEL MONDO della Fava

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SHOPPING Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.boggi.com. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Advertorial

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi. com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San

Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco. com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price

Art, luxury and elegance

For more than 30 years, FREYWILLE has been setting new standards in jewellery design, enameling processes and internationalization. The heart of every jewellery piece is the distinctive and artistically designed fire enamel that is applied in many layers and then fired. Up to 100 manual steps are necessary to produce a delicate and colour-intense fire enamel plate, shining with a stunning brilliance. All FREYWILLE Venezia jewellery pieces are hand-made in Vienna by masters of the genre, who guard the secret process: as passionate and experienced artists, they guarantee that the unique jewellery is of the highest quality. FREYWILLE has a long history of paying tribute to Venice’s heritage, incorporating quintessential Italian symbols, colours, and other elements in its products. The opulent and elegant jewellery collection “Hommage à Venice” highlights Venice’s architectural beauty and history. With the winged Lion as the centerpiece of the design, each magical piece of jewellery captures the story behind this special symbol and hallmark of the city as well as that of St Mark, one of Venice’s patron saints. 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

FREYWILLE Venezia Piazza San Marco, 53 T: 041 5200807 www.freywille.com


Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker


SHOPPING reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for NonEU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta FerrettiMoschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A

purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Damiani A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani. com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop).

Map E4

Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

Pomellato

An exclusive perfume collection from The Merchant of Venice Amidst canals and palaces, the history of Venice is displayed in all of its glory. And the history of Venice can also be smelt, inhaled and worn on the skin. The Merchant of Venice is the artistic perfumery brand inspired by the City of Venice. Established in 2013, it now comprises a wide range of Eau de Parfums and Eau de Toilettes, for the body and homecare, designed to evoke the allure of a glorious past when trade between Venice and Byzantium gave birth to the art of perfume-making in the western world. The brand’s exquisite bottles recall the age-old techniques of Murano glassmaking, and its sales points are never just simple shops but ancient apothecaries and modern concept stores. Places of art and culture that are distinguished by the elegance and refinement of their interiors. www.themerchantofvenice.com Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600. Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114 (Murano). T: 041 5274297.

22 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Rocca 1794 The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4


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When visiting Venice for the first or umpteenth time, we hope to find something truly Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto original for an authentic shopping experience. San Francesco An object, created by skilled craftsmen della Vigna S A N P O L O Sant’Aponal that captures the essence of the place or represents a special souvenir, to be kept as a memento or a gift for familySanand friends back home. San Silvestro Lorenzo Ottica Fontego Santa Maria Basilica San Rocco Chiesa Rettoriale Santa Maria the centuries, Dolfin Manin Formosa Palazzo as with all historic cities throughout the world, Venice has cultivated Over Palazzo dei Frari di S. Polo della Fava Grimani Mantovani Rava o della Consolazione ● Palazzo that have given life Teatro San Giovanni artisanal skills to emblematic artifacts, C A Sranging T E Lfrom L Oartistic glass Querini Carlo Goldoni San Salvador di Malta Palazzo Stampalia Querini-Dubois Palazzo La Biennale di Venezia de n a Grimani Educational to paper objects, accessories, fabrics and jewelry. In today’s world, where everything is Arsenale Gr Arsenale di Venezia l a San Giuliano San Tomà Can San Giovanni Novo San Beneto San Luca La Biennale di Venezia an Pantalon manufactured and can be bought – either at shops in the city or online Teatro – those alle Tese items, Palazzo Palazzo Giustinian Nervi San Giorgio Persico Scattolin Palazzo Fortuny dei Greci based on manual work and ancient techniques that have been handed down Arsenale di Venezia Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo from generation to generation, still hold a unique value. San Zaccaria San Martino Basilica di San Marco Santa Maria San Giovanni Battista della Pietà Remember that purchasing a souvenir authentic workshops or -from S A N MSanAFantinR C O in at Bragora La Biennale di Venezia Arsenale artisans Palazzo Palazzo Ducale GrassiNorma's Santo Stefano helps Venice preserve its traditional artisanal skills and hand them down to Museo San Samuele Correr Ca' Rezzonico ● Teatro la Fenice future generations. San Moisè San Barnaba San Maurizio Palazzo Loredan CO

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Alberto Sarrias Masks ●

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro ST Santa Sofia RA Galleria Internazionale D d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro A N O V A

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Since 1980, this family-run business has created papier-mâché mask for the theatre, Carnival parties and as decorative items for the home. Over the years, its owner Alberto Sarria has explored different techniques and materials to create unique pieces. Today, the store has extended its range to include leather goods, crafted according to traditional Venetian artisanal techniques. ISOLA LA GRAZIA

S. Servolo

SAN SERVO

www.masksvenice.com San Polo, 777. T: 041 5207278.

NORMA'S Textile accessories for the home and personal use. From beach towels, bags and furlane (the typical velvet slippers with rubber soles worn by gondoliers) to furnishing accessories such as lamps, lampshades, decorative paintings, authentic Murano glass objet d’art, silverware and cameos. All items are crafted according to traditional artisanal techniques using high-quality ISOLA MadeSAN in Italy materials. CLEMENTE

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEG

www. teodamar.com Calle de le Botteghe 2995-2996. T: 345 0133552. More info: venice.whereitalia.com

LIDO DI V w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23


ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

VENETIANS

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SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

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Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

FABBRI

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

ZULIAN

ORBI

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

Salvador

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

CORNER

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

TODESCHI

CALLE

G. GALLINA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

BEMBO

C. DEI

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

E

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

BOTERI

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

REMER

DOLERA

CAFETIER

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

SAN

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SABION

C.

C.

O DEL

CALLE DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

COCCO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MORETTI

DE

DONZELA

LUCA SAN CALLE

MARCO

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio

Canal Grande

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SALIZADA

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

PONTE

SACCA SAN

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

SPIRITO

RAMO

CALLE

LA

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

DE

LE

FALIER CALLE

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

C.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

FONDAMENT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORESI

nde Canal Gra

CROSERA

S. SAMUELE

SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CARROZZE

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CALLE

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

VOLTI

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

LE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FOND.

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

S. SALIZADA

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

S.ANDREA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

S.Silvestro

DEL TEATRO

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

Cana

LA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Palazzo Grimani

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

FOND.

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

nde

NARISI FOND.

VECCHIA

CORTE LEZZE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

E

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

TRAPOLIN

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

TRAGHETTO

CA’ RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

DEL

C. DE

DE

PONTE

LA

CARAMPANE

CALLE

DI SAN MARCO

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

LE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

CALLE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

AL

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPO SAN APONAL

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

A

PERDON

DEL

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DEL

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

O

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

del

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE SAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

IC

San Felice

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

ER

CALLE

DEI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

IS

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Angelo Raffaele

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

CA'

FORNO

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

TA

TA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

FONDAMEN

DEL

TABACCHI

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

NA

RUGA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

FABBRICHE

CALLE DE L’OGIO

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE

NIE

DD

LE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

DEI

FO

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

TINTOR

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

DEI

IA

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

I CALLE ORSETT

C.

NUOVA

FONDAMENTA

RD

R

STRADA

BIASIO

DI

BARI

LARGA

PONTE RIZZI

PROCURATIE

FONDAMEN

Soranzo Cappello

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta C.

DEI

FONDAMENTA

ICO

VECCHIO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

RIO

LA

MIS

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

RIO

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

LUNGA

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

CALLE

CROCE

CALLE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

CALL

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

AM

I

NA

RDIA

TRONCHET

LER

SE

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

NS

DELL'ORTO

ER LE P

A E M

SPAGNA

LISTA TERÀ

TI

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SE

ND

Museo Ebraico CAL

LL

MISERICO

DI

CAVALLET

Santa Maria di Nazareth

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Rio

LA

AI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

EN

FO

DE

PRIULI

TO

AM

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CA

CALLE

TRONCHET

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

CALLE

ZZ

SAVORGNAN

San Geremia

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PU

San Girolamo

A

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

SALONI

CA

C.

FO

LE

O

AI

DE

AM

ZATTERE

TA

OL

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT

FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

EN

LLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

AM

N G IR

DEL

ND

SA

CAPITELO

CASE

TA

CALLE

FO EN

TE

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

CALLE

TA

QUERIN,

BECCARIE

EN

CALLE

LE

AM

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

SEBASTIANO

FORNER

FO

Canale

CAMPO SAFFA

CALLE

BRAGADIN

DEL

People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

ND

FONDAMENTA

SAN

GIOBBE

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

della

CARLO

FO

A

San Giobbe

VENIER FONDAMENTA

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENT

DEL SABION

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

FONDAMENT

A

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

DEL

CORTE

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

NOVA

FONTEGO

ER

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

B

ISOLA

LA

Parco

LI

SALITA

LA

NANI

EL

CANOSSIANE

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

FOSCARINI

LE

FONDAMENTA

A

TERRÀ

VI

LE

ER

DE

B

TO

COLORATA

Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENT

LI

O

MURANO CALLE

LA

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

EL

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

D

del

LE

CALLE

A

Rio

VI

PORTO MARGHERA

CALLE

The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

ISOLA DEI LAGHI

FONDAME

home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

DI

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

C

ES

C

O

D

U

O

D

O

FAUSTA


ADVERTORIAL

VETRERIA DUCALE Located in the heart of Murano, an island famed throughout the world, Vetreria Ducale offers a wide selection of glass works created by the best 20th century masters as well as premium-quality contemporary objet d’art. Lighting, mirrors, sculptures, tableware and custommade items to suit individual styles and requirements. In addition to restorations, Vetreria Ducale also reproduces individual parts of antique objects. Worldwide delivery. Guided multi-lingual tours to the furnaces with glassmaking demonstrations.

Fondamenta Navagero, 76 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739922 | +39 041 5275284 fax +39 041 5276049 info@ducalemurano.com www.ducalemurano.com

VETRERIA ESTEVAN ROSSETTO 1950 Vetreria Estevan Rossetto 1950 offers a wide range of glass works and distinctive product lines. Created ad hoc, they blend to perfection with both modern and classic design elements. Chandeliers, mirrors and tableware: exclusive pieces skillfully handcrafted by master glass blowers from Murano, each item is made to order and customized according to individual tastes or designs. A team of expert multilingual staff is available to assist customers in their search for the perfect object and guided tours to the furnace can be booked on request.

Fondamenta Navagero, 50 MURANO Tel: +39 041 739329 fax +39 041 5274367 info@rossettomurano.com www.rossettomuranoglass.com More info: venice.whereitalia.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25


SHOPPING VENETIANS

Art galleries Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto

Galleria Contini

Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com). The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop,

the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting

D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670

26 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com). Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).


SHOPPING Salvadori

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3

Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www. camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4

Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www. otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4

Ottica Manuela Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268. Map E4

Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their

creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice. com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Map E5

The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 w w w.wh e re t rave le r.c o m 27


LIDO DI VENEZIA Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. BY ELENA BINDA

TORCELLO

Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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APRILE

CALLE

C.

II

CALLE

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

LOVO DEL

SANT’ANTONIO

CALLE

CALLE

ZULIAN

LE DE

BALBI

BALOTE

SAN

RUGA

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

F O N D A M E N TA

SARES

CALLE ZUCCHERO

CALLE

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

CALLE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

O E ANC

TI

CALLE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

AR

VIALE

M

CALL

E

CALLE

COPPO

DEL

LE

San Francesco di Paola

SCHIAVONA

TT

CALLE CORERA

VENIER

ENA

BALD

CALLE

I S E

C A L L E C ATA PA N

PISCINA

GARI

EPPE

CALLE

DE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

VA

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

SANT'AGNESE

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

COLTRERA

BRAGADIN

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CALLE

PISCINA

RAMO DE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

AMEN

TANA

CALLE FRIZIER

INCURABILI

FOND

DE LA

C. LOREDANA

CALLE

PISCINA

ETTI,

TI,

FA R S

ET RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

MEGIO DEL

STAE

FORNO

SAN

DEL CALLE

SALIZADA GRUE LE

CARMINATI

FONDAMENTA

DE

CALLE

STUA LA DE

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

TERA’

CRISTO

SECONDO

FOSCARI CALLE

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

VIDA

CROSERA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

LA

CALLE

'EU

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CASTELLO

NT

COSMO

ACCADEMIA

CALLE

DEI FORNI

ROSA

DI

FORNACE

SALONI

SA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DEI

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

LARGA

PIETRO

TERRÀ

TA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

Arsenale

100 m

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

SAN

ONI

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

RUGA VECCHIA

S C H I AV

de le

C. VOLTO

CALLE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora R I VA D EGLI

FON

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

CATECUMENI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

Salute

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

ASCENSIONE

RIO TERRÀ

RIO

VAPORETTO

DE CALLE

CROSERA

RI

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PISCINA

PIGNATER

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

DEL PIOVAN

MUNEGHE

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA

LARGA CALLE

SANTA NTA

PICCOLO

FONDAME

SIMON SAN FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA

ROCCO

DE C.

SAN

ALBANESI

LIPOLI

DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI LARGA CALLE

SESTIERE

nzera Scome De Canale I

DORSODURO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

a

AI

o Stazio

DIETRO

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

enzer

CALLE

DE

VONI

BASTION

SCUDI

SCHIA

DEL

CALLE

L’ANZOLO

DEGLI

DEGLI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

NUOVE

CASTELLO

DE

CALLE

Bacin

CELESTIA

DONA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI CALLE

R I VA

O

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

GATE

LARGA

RC

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

SCHIAVONI RIVA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

SAN

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

Palazzo

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

AM

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

DRASI

FABBRI

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

DEI PUTI

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE DELA CREA

FO

FO

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

Sant'Eufemia

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Zaccaria

CASTELLO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SESTIERE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEL

A N M

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

CALLE

SA

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

VERONA

LO

DEI PRETI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

LA

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

MO

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

O

Museo Correr

ZORZI SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE

DE

RC

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

C.

CALLE

ORSEOLO

Scom

Santa Maria del Pianto

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

DEL

le

NOVE

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

CALLE

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

FONDAMEN TA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

ENTA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

C.

VERONA

MA

SAN

ZZA

DE CALLE

SAN

LA

PIA

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CORTE NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

CALLE ERIZZO

LIO

DE

FONDAMENTA

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

CALLE

Bacino Orseolo

CARRO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CALLE

SAN

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAM

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

DEL

SAN

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

Rio San Lorenzo

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

DEL

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE

CAPPELLO BIANCA

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CORTE TORRETTA

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

NOVE

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

FABBRI

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

ZULIAN

ORBI

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

Salvador

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

CORNER

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

TODESCHI

CALLE

G. GALLINA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

BEMBO

C. DEI

CALLE

CORTE MICHIEL

LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

San Fantin

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

LICINI

MEZO

C.

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

E

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

BOTERI

VARISCO

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

SAN GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

REMER

DOLERA

CAFETIER

Santa Maria del Giglio

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

DEL FORNO

SAN

DELLE

SAN

Teatro la Fenice

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

SABION

C.

C.

O DEL

CALLE DEL

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DELLA

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

COCCO

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

MAZZINI CORTE

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MORETTI

DE

DONZELA

LUCA SAN CALLE

MARCO

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San Maurizio

Canal Grande

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

SALIZADA

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

PONTE

SACCA SAN

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

SPIRITO

RAMO

CALLE

LA

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

DE

LE

FALIER CALLE

San Vidal

FONDAMENTA

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

C.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

VENIER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

FONDAMENT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

ORESI

nde Canal Gra

CROSERA

S. SAMUELE

SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CARROZZE

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CALLE

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SAN

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

VOLTI

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

RAVANO

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CALLE

CALLE

DEL

LE

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FOND.

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEI

PISCINA

CROSERA

S. SALIZADA

DE

CALLE

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

ZEN

S.ANDREA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

PARANGON

DEL

RUGHETA

S.Silvestro

DEL TEATRO

CATENE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CALLE

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

Cana

LA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Palazzo Grimani

NOVE

CALLE

CATERINA

FOND.

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

nde

NARISI FOND.

VECCHIA

CORTE LEZZE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONLINI

E

FONDAMENTA

SANTA

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

FONDAMENTA

LONGO

TRAPOLIN

San Beneto San Luca

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

TRAGHETTO

CA’ RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Ca' Rezzonico San Barnaba

San Trovaso

OGNISANTI

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

DEL

C. DE

DE

PONTE

LA

CARAMPANE

CALLE

DI SAN MARCO

Accademia

FOND.

ZATTERE

LE

Gra

Palazzo Fortuny

SESTIERE

CALLE

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

AL

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

FODAMENTA

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPO SAN APONAL

TRAGHETTO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

Abazia della Misericordia D I

R

A

PERDON

DEL

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

DEL

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico

S. Toma' SX

DORSODURO

BESAGIO

O

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE

del

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

CALLE SAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

Rio

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

San Sebastiano

IC

San Felice

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

MADONA

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ROSSA

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

ER

CALLE

DEI

C.

SCALETER

San Tomà

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

IS

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

DE LA

CAZZIOLA

Angelo Raffaele

SALIZADA

CALLE CHIESA

M

FONDAMEN

VENDRAMIN

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

CROSERA

FONDAMENT

VENEZIA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

CA'

FORNO

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

DE

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

RAMO

Rio Nuovo

BRIATI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

S. Basilio

DELLA

D

TA

TA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

N

FONDAMEN

DEL

TABACCHI

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

NA

Santa Fosca

CALLE

NUOVA

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

NA

RUGA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

FABBRICHE

CALLE DE L’OGIO

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CALLE

NIE

DD

LE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PAPADOPOLI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

C.

DE

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

CALLE

CALLE DE LA LACA

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

.DA

MA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

SAN

BASEGO

RIO

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DELL'OLIO

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

DE

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

CALLE

DEI

FO

À D E

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE

MINOTTO

Magazen

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

TINTOR

FON.

CALLE

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

DE

DE LA VIDA

DEL

SCHI

NICOLO’ SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE ORSETTI

TA

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA BELA

TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN

CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMA

SIMEONE

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

Rio

La Maddalena

NOVA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

DEI

DEI

IA

RIO

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

I CALLE ORSETT

C.

NUOVA

FONDAMENTA

RD

R

STRADA

BIASIO

DI

BARI

LARGA

PONTE RIZZI

PROCURATIE

FONDAMEN

Soranzo Cappello

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Rio

PENSIERI

FONDAMENTA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta C.

DEI

FONDAMENTA

ICO

VECCHIO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

CALLE TRAGHETTO

TO

NA

Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Giardino di Palazzo

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

FONDAMENTA

RIO

LA

MIS

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

RIO

CASE CORTE

CALLE

SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

NUOVE

CROCE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

LUNGA

LA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

CALLE

CROCE

CALLE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

EN

CALL

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

DEI

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

AM

I

SE

TRONCHET

LER

A E M

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

SCALZI

Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

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SPECIAL EVENTS - For many years the Lido has been the playground of celebrities and crowned heads. It all begans in the second half of the 19th century when the international jet-set discovered its long sandy beaches. It is therefore not surprising that in August 1932 the terrace of the Hotel Excelsior hosted the first film festival. Then, a special location, the Palazzo del Cinema, was assigned to the most glamorous event of the year. At the end of summer, the festival turns the sleepy Lido into a mini Hollywood, attracting rising stars of the screen, eager to be photographed, plus hordes of fans, film buffs and onlookers.

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ISOLA DI TESSERA

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WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence.

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WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club (18 holes) set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered that there was nowhere else where he could play golf.

You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.

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The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200m in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.

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ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA FAVORITA Located in the heart of the Lido of Venice, since 1950, this historic family-run trattoria has paid tribute to Venetian cuisine. Its menu, comprised mainly of fish dishes, is inspired by locally-sourced ingredients with a focus on distinct, easily recognizable flavours. Standouts include fish tartare or bigoli with shrimp and artichokes which, during warmer months can be savoured in the garden accompanied by a rich selection of wines and great live music. Via Francesco Duodo, 33 – Lido. T: 041 5261626.

Situated in an early 20th-century villa and only a few metres from the vaporetto stop and the docking stations of private boats, the Essentiale Restaurant Lounge has a magnificent veranda featuring typical Venetian-style furnishings and a garden terrace where you can linger until late in the evening and admire St. Marks under the moonlight. Loved by guests on account of its convenient position and designed to accommodate up to 60 diners, it offers traditional Venetian cuisine as well as international dishes, and an excellent selection of wines to toast the beauty spread out in front of you.

c/o Hotel Villa Laguna Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – Lido. T: 041 5261316.

More info: venice.whereitalia.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

PHOTO © MORENO GALLO

ESSENTIALE


LIDO DI VENEZIA | Meet your friends

ROXYBAR RESTAURANT

BUDDHA SOUL & RESTÒ

Run by Cinò family since the '50s. Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, 49/G. T: 041 5261250. www.ristoranteroxybar.it

BLUE MOON

Indian and Mediterranean food. Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta 28/B. T: 041 770618. Mob: 366 7554455. buddhasoulresto.net

BAR, LOUNGE & RESTAURANT Pizza, snacks and music on the beach. Piazzale Bucintoro, 1 (at the end of the Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta).

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DIADEMA

BEAUTY CENTER Via Lepanto, 25/A. Mob: 328 9233617 giadachiocchetti1990@hotmail.com

PACHUKA BEACH

RESTAURANT, PIZZERIA & MUSIC Dog-friendly Beach at the Lido. Via Klinger (San Nicolò). T: 041 770147. www.pachuka.com

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BAR & LOUNGE ON THE BEACH Pizza and Venetian cuisine. Lungomare Marconi, 61. T: 041 5260709. www.pizzeriamiramare.it

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SEAFRONT KIOSK Premium quality food and drink. Lungomare Marconi, 29 (front “4 Fountaine Beach”)


ADVERTORIAL

TERRAZZA DE BORTOLI

O DEGLI ARMENI

TRATTORIA FAVORITA

UNIQUE SEAFRONT TERRACE Restaurant, pizza, drink and relax. Lungomare Marconi, 22 (near Consorzio Beach). T: 041 5201209

RISTORANTE DEL BUON RICORDO A temple of authentic Venetian cuisine. Via F. Duodo, 33. T: 041 5261626. trattoriafavorita@libero.it

Essentiale

Vaporetto lines: 1, 2, 14, 51, 52 Ticket: € 7,50 20 minutes from Piazza S. Marco 35 minutes from Piazzale Roma

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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VILLA MABAPA

STARRED & GOURMET RESTAURANT Magnificent view over St. Mark’s Basin. Riviera S. Nicolò, 16. T: 041 5260590. www.villamabapa.com

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido VIA DELL'O SPIZ

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BAR, LOUNGE & RESTAURANT All you want, all day long. Gran Viale S.M. Elisabetta, 43/47. T: 041 2428133

CHIOSCO BAHIANO

SEAFRONT KIOSK Aperitivi, spritz and snacks. Piazza Pola (Lungomare D’Annunzio). Mob: 349 0557406.

Pachuka Beach

PARADISE BEACH

RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA Salsa & Merengue and Italian dancing. Via Klinger (San Nicolò). T: 041 5261560

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PHOTO SIMON WATSON

DINING

The Bauer Restaurant gets a makeover Chef Giovanni Ciresa returns to the Lagoon with a new menu and a new brigade to revitalize a restaurant renowned for its enviable location. By Elena Binda

T

he new menu at the Bauer Restaurant features Venetian ‘cicchetti’, a symbol of local cuisine, timeless regional dishes, including ‘risi e bisi’ and a new entry – pizza, in its most authentic, noble guise. “The era of complicated preparations is over, we want to return to the simplicity and authenticity of tradition, where quality embodies the essence of a dish”, explains Giovanni Ciresa, who boasts a starred career which began at the Enoteca Pinchiorri and continued with stints at establishments in Tokyo, Singapore, France and Italy. His resume also includes a decade-long tenure – between 2002 and 2012 – as head chef at the prestigious ‘De Pisis’ restaurant. 2017 thus marked his comeback in a completely new role. Francesca Bortolotto Possati, the CEO of Venice’s 32 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Bauer Hotel Group, called Ciresa back to Venice not as a chef, but as a coordinator and consultant, to study and develop an innovative gastronomic concept. Ciresa, a lecturer at several of Italy’s most prestigious cookery schools and a top talent scout, was entrusted with the task of choosing a new brigade, helmed by executive chef Martino Longo. The young Trentino-born chef will enhance the menu with several dishes from his native region including Wiener Schnitzel with roast potatoes. In addition to its food, there is nothing more romantic than the restaurant’s setting which includes a beautiful terrace with breathtaking views over the Grand Canal. >> www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1459. T: 041 5207022


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto. it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

Antiche Carampane

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www. antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www. anticomartini.com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).

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A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

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Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style liver,

Villa Mabapa, harmony and taste Renowned for the superior quality of its food, the menu at the Villa Mabapa restaurant features traditional Venetian fare, plus delights from the family’s recipe book with an emphasis on fresh, locally sourced, seasonal products. In addition to tourists, Villa Mabapa is patronized by discerning Venetians who appreciate the originality of its cuisine and its charming atmosphere. On summer evenings, dinner is served in the garden accompanied by the soft, flickering light of candles and a view over the lagoon. A unique culinary experience that will delight all your senses: from the fragrance of a glass of wine chosen especially for the locale’s clientele to the aroma of freshly-caught fish from the Adriatic or tender seasonal vegetables sourced from the vegetable gardens of the estuary accompanied by the soothing notes of a piano, a perfect combination of harmony and taste. Ristorante Villa Mabapa Lido di Venezia. Riviera San Nicolò, 16. T: 041 5260590. www.villamabapa.com/it/il-ristorante

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3

Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes. Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

34 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chef Enrico Bartolini offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina. www.lacusina.it San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. The ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4


DINING Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellstocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle

Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Calcina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com.

c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Locanda Cipriani For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 35


MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS

DINING Trattoria Do Forni

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida

The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Wildner

Osteria da Fiore Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has recently reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo). T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

COFFEE & PASTRY SHOPS Caffè Florian One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).Map F5

Dal Mas Cioccolateria Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3

Gran Caffè Quadri Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Harry’s Dolci Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Map D6


PHOTO MIRCO TOFFOLO

Venetian cuisine, tradition and creativity

At Bistrò da Cici, a venue located amidst the ‘calli’ surrounding the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and the Basilica della Salute, the culinary experience of la Serenissima lives on thanks to a menu that focuses on traditional dishes

Bistrò da Cici c/o Hotel Salute Palace Dorsoduro 222/a. T: 041 5235404 www.salutepalace.com

upgraded with a traditional twist, seasonal products and local specialties. Formerly a meeting place for Venice’s cultural elite in the ‘60s and a reference point for artists collaborating with Peggy Guggenheim, the restaurant’s brigade is helmed by chef Stefano Bison, a Venetian with a cosmopolitan calling. After working at several of Europe’s most prestigious restaurants, Stefano decided to return to the cuisine (and region) of his origin. “Tradition is an essential part of my philosophy. Our mothers and grandmothers always cooked traditional dishes, using seasonal ingredients. My aim is to do exactly the same thing”, explains Bison. “I manage to combine tradition with innovation by using fresh, high-quality ingredients. Rather than altering them, I try to enhance them by using modern culinary techniques and tools.”

Stefano Bison, a 37 year-old native of Treviso, started his career at some of Europe’s most prestigious starred restaurants and hotels. When asked to choose a signature dish that best represents his style of cooking, Bistrò da Cici’s Executive Chef said that he would choose a fish dish... from the lagoon naturally!

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

PHOTO FRANCESCO ALLEGRETTO

EXHIBITION VIEW OF “MACHINES À PENSER” - FONDAZIONE PRADA, VENICE PHOTO MATTIA BALSAMINI - COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA

SIGHTSEEING |

The reemergence of the ‘80’s During the 16th Architecture Biennale, the Berengo Foundation will host an exhibition at Palazzo Franchetti dedicated to the bizarre and unforgettable works of Memphis Design. By Elena Peverata

I

n the 1980s, the founders of the collective of artists and designers known as Memphis reacted to the austerity of modernism with a distinctive, irreverent movement inspired by pop art, featuring loud colours and zany patterns that enabled Ettore Sottsass and other members of the group to make a lasting impact on the global design world. In the exhibition dedicated to this extraordinary post-modern movement, Palazzo Franchetti, one of the city’s most beautiful and historic buildings, will act as a contrasting backdrop to the furniture and items designed by Memphis, highlighted by an interesting

undergrowth of black potted plants designed to fade out the palazzo’s gaudy colours and focus visitors’ attention on a selection of contemporary productions of the group’s original designs produced between 1981 and 1987. The items displayed include works by Sottsass, Zanini, De Lucchi, Zanuso Jr, Bley, Bedin, Mendini, Mariscal, Kuramata, Cibic, Graves, Iosa Ghini, Thun, Taylor, Umeda, Sowden, Sanchez, Shire, Branzi and Du Pasquier. One room is dedicated exclusively to Memphis’s bizarre, brightly coloured glass works, a tribute to the Berengo Foundations’ commitment to promoting Murano glass art. In addition to Memphis -

Memphis at Palazzo Franchetti… an interesting play of contrasts

38 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Plastic Field, visitors will have a chance to admire The Gilded Cage, an installation by Chinese artist-activist Ai Weiwei in the courtyard of Palazzo Franchetti overlooking the Grand Canal. This installation, featured last autumn in Central Park, New York as part of a series of public works titled Good Fences make Good Neighbors, was originally used to highlight an awareness campaign on the theme of the global refugee crisis >> Memphis - Plastic Field Ai Weiwei - The Gilded Cage Fondazione Berengo - Palazzo Franchetti, San Marco 2847 24 May – 25 November Open daily 10am-6.30pm www.fondazioneberengo.org


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia. org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am- 7pm. www. palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widelyphotographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica

Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

San Giorgio Maggiore

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www. scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to

PALAZZO GRASSI Renovated by Japanese architect Tadao Ando (also responsible (for the restoration of Punta della Dogana), it showcases the extraordinary Pinault Collection and features personal and collective exhibitions. www.palazzograssi.it

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www. basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a halfday cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de’ Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve. it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto. visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map

The ‘Canneti’ glass vases and other creations designed by Mario Bellini for Venini enhance the offering at the GLASS MUSEUM during The Venice Glass Week.


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

| SIGHTSEEING

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini. it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale. visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949)

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and welltended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of

transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces,

contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions.

offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi. it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41


ENTERTAINMENT

"La fiaba di Amore e Psiche"

Exploring the world of Canova A unique exhibition dedicated to the creative process of the famous Venetian sculptor awaits visitors at the Scuola Grande della Misericordia. By Elena Peverata

F

eaturing a blend of technology, entertainment and state-of-the art research, this unmissable exhibition is the second installment of an artistic trilogy; in 2017, it was titled ‘Magister Giotto’ and dedicated to Giotto, while, in 2019, its protagonist will be Raphael. More than a traditional exhibit, ‘Magister Canova’ is a spectacular multimedia experience that allows visitors to explore the life and works of sculptor, artist and architect Antonio Canova (Possagno 1757-Venezia 1822), one of the greatest masters of Neoclassic sculpture who created masterpieces for some of the century’s most illustrious personages including Napoleon Bonaparte. The aim of this exhibition/installation is to allow visitors to gain a deeper understanding of the complexity of his work and personality

42 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

through a narrative that ranges from the detail of the butterfly of Cupid and Psyche to the drama of Hercules and Lichas. Guests are welcomed on the ground floor by a monumental head of Canova. The exhibition continues on the first floor of the Scuola Grande della Misericordia, where “The Marble Mine” is displayed: a majestic place inspired by the white marble Quarries of Carrara, fashioned out of textile architecture. Voice-over narration accompanies visitors on their exploration of the six thematic rooms. The original soundtrack is entrusted to composer and cellist Giovanni Sollima. >> Magister Canova. 16 June-22 November Scuola Grande della Misericordia, 3599. Cannaregio www.magister.art

"Ercole uccide Lica"


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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ON SHOW Don’t miss the “Arlecchino Furioso” perfomance, an original comedy written in the classical canon of the ‘Commedia dell’Arte” - an art form whose colours and masks have conveyed the vitality of popular tradition for more than four centuries. Supertitles in French and English. Until 21 October. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www. teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

WELLNESS Grand Hotel dei Dogi Spa Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa Suite. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it OPERA GALA 2 September Excerpts from Rossini, Verdi, Mozart, Donizetti, Offenbach Sesto Quatrini, conductor Lisette Oropesa, soprano Stefan Pop, tenor Markus Werba, baritone OPERA 6, 9, 11, 20, 22, 29 September MADAMA BUTTERFLY by Giacomo Puccini Renato Balsadonna, conductor Alex Rigola, director Mariko Mori, sets and costumes Albert Faura, light designer CHAMBER MUSIC - MUSIKÁMERA 8 and 10 September at Sale Apollinee Excerpts from Bach Laura Pontecorvo, flute Rinaldo Alessandrini, harpsichord

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-

Villa Pisani

In praise of slowness In bygone days, aristocratic Venetian families built country estates where they could spend the summer amidst lush green surroundings and spaces, to enjoy rural recreation. Nowadays, a leisurely boat tour of the Brenta Riviera (1 hour from Venice) is a delightful experience that allows participants to admire these masterpieces of architecture that were designed centuries ago, and which continue to astonish those visiting the area. Unmissable stopovers include Villa Foscari, also known as ‘la Malcontenta’, a stunning mansion built by Andrea Palladio in 1559 and now a UNESCO world heritage site; the magnificent 18th century Villa Pisani which, in addition to housing a magnificent fresco by Giovan Battista Tiepolo, was so large that it was used as meeting place for numerous heads of state until the Pisani family sold it to Napoleon in 1807, and, finally, Villa Widmann which combines the tradition of Veneto villas with French Rococò architecture and is now the headquarters of the Venetian tourist board. Day cruises are available from both Venice and Padua. Several tour companies also offer romantic evening cruises. www.veneziaunica.it - www.welcomepadova.it

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK

ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

disposable ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre. Venice also has its own network of

public...and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These engine-powered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45


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Chiesa di Santa Caterina

C A M PA LT O

OC C. B

FO

MALLEO CALLE

CAO

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

C.CALZEVERDE

A LO DESTR

RA LO SINIST

EI S Q

RCE

DI

LLO

CO

RT

AR

FONDAMENTA

MAZZORBO

BAGARON

M E N TA

INEL N TA P O N T

SC

INEL N TA P O N T

VIA

FONDA

FONDAME

SA

FONDAME

11 VIA

CIMITERO DEL STRADA

RI

H

UE

G

F

100 m

MESTRE

TORCELLO

BURANO

ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

Parco San Giuliano

ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

MURANO 10

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

TREPORTI

1

ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA

LO

ZA

NI

OL

EN

GE

A AS C

L C O

LA EL

E D E

.D AL

NO

G

LL

I

LE

CA

O

FO

ND

ND

AM

E N TA S E

AME

N TA

SA

CAMPIELLO SAN GIUSEPPE

BA

N

ST

SAN

L O

SA

Chiesa S. Erasmo

NZ O

FO

CRISTO DEL

RO

CAMPO S A N D O N AT O

O M LE E D A VI

E

N

TA

CALL

M

SANT’ERASMO

FO

N

Ponte Lungo

DELLA MULA

MURANO

DA

D

A

FONDAMENTA

TT

E

MIST

IA N TI S G O

ER

C

NI

E AN GE

VE

IU

TA

LO D AL

EN

N

AM

R

ND

CALLE

CALLE

SERENELLA

MULA

DA

ANTON

N TA

I

O

E FONDA M

RAMO

QUIRIZIO

F O N D A M E N TA D E I V E T R A I

DEI

ZANETTI

CAMPIELLO

CI

DELLA DELLA

NI

PRË

UC

PESCHERIA

A M

IN

CAMPIELLO P. B I G A G L I A

AN

R

M

O B

BERTOLINI

E

EN

N

C LE

D

EL

L’

O

LI

O

AL

LE

BR

ES

SA

G

M

IO

FON

LE

TR

LE

IO

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M

DA

VIA

DE

LE

MO

TT

C A’ S AV I O

E

M

Faro di Murano

AL

VE

AL

C

AI

IO

LLA F O N D A M E N TA S E R E N E

FO

N

D

AM

I

AL

ENT

LI

C

TI

TO

TA

R

C

O

PESCHERIA

CALLE

AN

DEL

I

RD

HI O MASG

ORT

C. LARGA

NA

A SAN GIOV

LI RO G

CALLE

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IET LE D OLO

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LLE

TONI E N TA A N

CAL

FOSC

O E UG

LLEONI

CALL

BERTOLINI

TI

FO

N

D

AM

EN

TA

D

CALLE

FONDAM

CO

CALLE

Chiesa di San Pietro Martire

CA

CIPRIANO SAN CALLE

CAVALLINO TREPORTI

NTI

RE

Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato

GIUSEPPE

CALLE

SA

US

GN

LP

COLORATA

BR

MA

C

GIA LLE

CAMPO SAN BERNARDO

BAROVIER CALLE

VIVARINI

A.

SACCA

LIO

LL

L'A CA

E C E

CA

DEL

SAN

CAL

LE

SALVADOR

FO

TERA’

Santa Maria degli Angeli

PARMENSE

LL

E V O

RTI

STRADA

CA

RADI

CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE

NO

MURANO

TA’

AN

IA

ER

PORTO MARGHERA

E

A

B

CALLE DEL CIMITERO

LI

CRISTOFORO

LORENZO

GIANMARIA

VENINI

PAOLO

FONDAMENTA

LA

RIO

CALLE

NICOLO’ CALLE SAN

EL

FONDAMENTA

ORTES CALLE

D

M

LE

LL

NV

CA

Cimitero Nuovo

A

TO

COLORATA

VI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

VIA

MASENA

ROTONDA

CANOSSIANE

CALLE

DE

LARGA

LA DE

a

CALLE

Apostoli Santi

DEI

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

CALLE

CALLE

CORDONI DEI STELLA

CALLE CALLE

STELLA

SQUERO

CALLE

DEL CALLE

TESTA DE

LA

Rio

Dei

BANDI

MENDICANTI

FONDAMENTAMendicanti

CALLE

CALLE

CASTELLO

GIUSTINA

CAPPUCCINE CALLE

SANTA

DEGLI

ORTI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE

CALLE CAVALLI

MURAZZO

PIETA’

CALLE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAPPELLO

CALLE

CALLE

RAMO

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO

MAGNO

Nuove Fondamenta delle

GRECI

CALLE DEI

Canale

STRETA SALIZADA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

CALLE

DE

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA CALLE

CALLE

DOSE DEL

PE

ISEPO

SANT'ANTONIO

COLONNE CALLE

FONDAMENTA

C. D EL

LE

CAR

XXIV M AGG

IO

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

SO

GEN

ERA

CH

LE

INO

TTO

C.

ZU

SS

CAL

PA

A

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

LL

E

CA

RN

AR

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

ER

CA

LL

SA

CA

E

Teatro Verde

N

F.

GN

Japan Pavilion

CO

MAGGIORE

NI

EMB

RE

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

I

N

A

N

LA

VA

EL

IO

AR

G

E

MA

DI

GR

MO

RT

VI

E

AN

CA

LL

E

MA

SO

AL

E

N

VI

TT

OR

IO

VI

VE

AL

NE

RI

VI O

RA

E

IV

NO

VE

Lido S. Nicolo' M

BR

SANT’ELENA

E

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

TO

R E

RO

G

UE

N

SQ

IA

K

LO

LI

E

LL

E

DE

LL

A

FO

ND

IA

V

ER

Ò

CA

OL

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

CALLE DEL FORNO

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

C.

PARADISO

DEL

CALLE

DEL

CALLE

C.

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

FORNO

BO

DEL

DONZELLA C.

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

C.

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

CALLE DE LE RASSE

DE

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

DO

FOORNO

Ca’

GA

DEL

RU

Rio

VELE DE

LE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

SALIZADA

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

E

LL

RIO CROCE

STRETTA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

C.

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

LA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

DE

FA R S

ET

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

TE

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

C.

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

C.

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

LA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

DE

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

DE

DE

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CALLE

CALLE

LL

CA

FONDAMENTA

ROTONDA

MP

CA

O

CA

SANT'ELENA

LL

GE

Rio

N

NO

SA

I

IE

SANT'ELENA

TA

TI

EN

C

AM

BO

D

LI

N

SA

LL

BB

TE

E

ZI

TA

NT

EN

Parco delle Rimembranze

MP

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

AM

CA

O

E

U I P

LL

M

DEI

US

TERÀ

PALUDO

ND

E

CA

IN

OC

C.

CR

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

TA

RD

GRANDE

GI

N

RIO

IA

CALLE

SA

TA

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

G

PONTE

EN

E

CALLE

AM

ND

AL

CORTE

FO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Giardini

S. Giorgio

VI

FIANCO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

EP

O

SAN GIACOMO

A

IST

LL

ACCADEMIA

CE

R L C

IB PE GAR

NA

RI

DE

MA

ION

Lungo

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

C.

EN

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

BB

IAN

RE

RI

CO

SA

SE

C.

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

TI

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

AR

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

M

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

TE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

FONDAMENTA

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

I

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

COLTRERA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OSPIZIO

CALLE

LE

CALLE FRIZIER

GARI

EPPE

C. LOREDANA

I S ET

AN

CALLE

ENA

CALLE

DE

EL

FONDAMENTA

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

VA

CH

Ponte

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

AM

DELLA

MI

ERBE

RAMO DE

CALLE

ND

CALLE

E

LE

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

FO

CALLE ALBERO

LL

JUNGHANS

DE

FOND

DE LA

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

FO

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

SAN GI ACOM

CA

CAMPO

CALLE

VIDA

DI

M E N TA

LA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

DEI

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PICCOLO

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

SAN

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

IA

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

FEM

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

'EU

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

NT

SCUOLA

MARTIN

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

SA

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

TA

CALLE

S C H I AV

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

BASTION

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

AM

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

SCUDI

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

ND

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

DEL

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

FO

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

SAN ANTONIN

DE

Spirito Santo

FO

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

DEGLI

VERONA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEI FORNI

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Arsenale

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

CALLE BOSELLO

LA

MINELLI

TERRÀ

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

100 m

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

DE

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

C.

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

RIO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

DEGLI

O

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

RI

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

DEL

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

a

DEL CAFETIER

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

PISCINA

VERONA

RC

CALLE

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LA

CALLE

DE

A N M

SALIZADA

SEVERO

DIREZIONE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SAN

FABBRI

Marittim

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

LARGA

P U N TA S A B B I O N I Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

Palazzo Ducale

LO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

MO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

CALLE

RC

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

RIO

CALLE

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SCHIAVONI RIVA

LE VIGNOLE

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO

SAN

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

BEMBO

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

C.

MAGAZZINI

G. GALLINA

DEL

DE LE ERBE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

BIANCA CALLE

Museo Correr

SALUTE

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

LARGA

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

REMER

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

PIA

O DEL

CINQUE

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

AI

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

CORNER

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

COCCO

TOSCANA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

DE

CORTE GRAGOLINA

Bacino Orseolo

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

NOVE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GALLO

BERLENDIS

VARISCO

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

LE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BOTERI

CALLE

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

MIRACOLI

CALLE

DE

CALLE

Stazione

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

Salute

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

RIO

Teatro Malibran

SALIZADA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

C.

C.

FRUTARIOL

DEL

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

CASTELLO

CALLE

MADONA

zera

ORESI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

RUGA

CALLE

DOLERA

DIETRO

FABBRICHE

CALLE

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

DE

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

VAPORETTO

LE

GALIZZI

STURION

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

Palazzo Genovese

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

RAMO

S.Canciano CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

X

SAN LIO

MAZZINI CORTE

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE

SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

CALLE

SAN CALLE CALLE

Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ALLO

CALLE CALLE

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

ZEN

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Silvestro

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

S.Silvestro

DEL

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

PRIULI

NOVA

PESCARIA

DEI

DEL

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

CATERINA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

DEL

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

LA

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

LE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

DEL

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal DEL

CALLE

NARISI FOND.

DE

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

LA

CARAMPANE

de r an

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

LE

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan CALLE

OGNISANTI

DEL

San Felice

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

PERDON

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DE

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

LE

IA

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

DE

Abazia della Misericordia D

R

C.

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

O

DE

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

IC

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

C.

SCALETER

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

ER

NA

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DE

DEL

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

IS

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

TA

TRON

SAN

C.

EN

MORETTI

C.

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

AM

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

D

CALLE

TABACCHI

CALLE

C.

DE

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

N

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

L

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

DE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

NA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

CA

LA

SAN

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

LE

ALE

DE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

DD

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

le

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

MA

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

de

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

LA

DE

LA

CALLE DE LA LACA

LA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

DE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

FO de Servi N

TER

C.

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

Bacino

DE

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

LA

CALLE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

DE

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

FO

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

LA

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

C.

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

IA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

DI

BARI

C.

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

RD

R

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

ER

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

LA

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

DE

TA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

LA

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

EN

STRADA

DE

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

AM

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

ND

I

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

A

Rio

LER

NA

AI

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

NS

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

SE

FO

ER LE P

SE

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

TA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

EN

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

LL

NOVA

AM

San Girolamo

CA

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ND

INE

DEL

ZZ

CALLE

PU

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

CA

PISCINA

LE

FO

LE

O

SAN

DE

AM

L’ARCO

TA

OL

CALLE

EN

DE

AM

N G IR

SAN

ND

SA

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

TA

LLO

RUGA

FO

EN

TE

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

AM

B AT

DOGE

ND

TA

CALLE

FORNER

EN

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

AM

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

FO

ND

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

ER

SANT'AGNESE

B

LA

Parco

LI

BRAGADIN

LA

PISCINA

EL

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

D

FONDAMENTA

LE

INCURABILI

A

CALLE ZUCCHERO

VI

C A

FR

AN

VI

A

C

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S. Servolo

VI

A

SA

N

N TA

MA

P

O

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AB

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FO

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VI

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PA

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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

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DE

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Hundertwasser' Garden

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IA

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NA

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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VI

A

VIA

CA

ND

IA

SANDRO

LU

NG

OM

AR

O SE LV

PO

VI

VIA

VIA

ENIC

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CO

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

TR

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

A

M

O

RO

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Hotel Excelsior Venice

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DI CA

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AM

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San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

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Russia Pavilion

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NT E SA BO

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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

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I

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FO

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Parco delle Rimembranze VI

see pages 4-5

PIZ

GE

CA

L DE

C. D EL

OS

RO

AN

UE

EL

SQ

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

Teatro Verde

CH

E

GR

MI

LL

MO

E

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CA

RA

E

LL

CA

LE

AN

LL

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CA

ON

Japan Pavilion

CAL

Top in Town

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S MA

MAGGIORE

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RT

SAN GIORGIO

BB

MA

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U I P

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IN

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PO

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RD

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United States Pavilion

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EN TA AM

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A

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VI

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EN

EN

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CC A

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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

CA

ce

CALL

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AR

IAN

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Punta della Dogana

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I S E

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DE

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PO E COP

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CALL

CALL

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N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI F O N D A M E N TA

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San Francesco di Paola

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CALL

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

PRET E DEI

ESSO

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oise

IUS VIA G

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100 m

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CALLE

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Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

SAL

LE

V TA

CA

E

DEI FORNI

CAL

IN

DI

ION

RAMO DE

FONI

O

TAN A

MARA

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DE LA

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DE

DAM

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w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47

L


[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Venice Magazine

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

© egiudici_WhereItalia

5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Hotel Danieli – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4

Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map

Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3

BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4

OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)

MORE ON VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM 48 W H E R E V E N I C E I S E P T E M B E R 2018

CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map


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