Where London March 2017 by Morris Media Network

London

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

DRESS TO IMPRESS

SUPER WOMEN

Princess Diana’s iconic outfits are unveiled at Kensington Palace

, arena 2 O e Th rbit Climb own the O Shard e d abseil yoga at Th oy or enj

Meet the ladies behind London’s leading attractions

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ENTERTAINMENT

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Contents March

See more of London at wheretraveler.com/london

London

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RECOMMENDED BY YOUR CONCIERGE

DRESS TO IMPRESS

SUPER WOMEN

Princess Diana’s iconic outfits are unveiled at Kensington Palace

Meet the ladies behind London’s

leading attractions , arena The O2 Orbit the Climb Shard down abseil yoga at The or enjoy

ON THE COVER

Go on an adventure and experience the city in a new way. Cover image courtesy of Up at The O2

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ART POP PUBS IRISH ATRE THE PRE-MENUS

CULTURE

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SHOPPING

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The Guide 22 SIGHTSEEING Princess Diana’s most iconic dresses are unveiled in her former home, Kensington Palace.

38 ENTERTAINMENT An American in Paris, which has songs by the Gershwin brothers, arrives straight from Broadway with rave reviews – catch it at the Dominion Theatre.

Best of the month 6 WHERE NOW Discover unseen pictures of The Beatles, cheer on rowers in The Head of the River Race and see David Tennant star as Don Juan in the West End.

14 IT’S A WOMAN’S WORLD

As International Women’s Day takes place, meet the women running the capital.

18 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE It’s springtime! Take your pick of floral-inspired gifts, from artwork to fashion.

10 SEVEN WONDERS OF LONDON Give your trip a twist and visit one of the city’s most famous attractions, from The View from The Shard to the ArcelorMittal Orbit, in a new way.

CHINESE EDITION | SPRING 2017

PLAN

2016-2017

PLAN DE

LONDRES ÉDITION E FRANÇAIS

74 MY LONDON Debbie Moore OBE, the founder of Pineapple Dance Studios, shares her London hotspots.

TA L K I N G T O T H E W O R L D ’ S V I S I T O R S

LONDON

伦敦 | 中文版

奢华之都伦敦春季

奢侈品 | 时尚 | 美容 | 餐饮 | 文化 | 地图

48 SHOPPING We show you how easy it is to be green with our pick of ecofriendly stores that sell everything from stationery to shoes. 54 DINING Don’t panic if you need to eat supper in time for a show. We round up the best pre- and post-theatre menus in London.

IN LONDON CHINESE EDITION | 中文版 | SPRING 2017

AN AMERICAN IN PARIS © MATTHEW MURPHY; MACKEREL DISH COURTESY OF TEMPLE AND SONS; LADY DIANA BY LORD SNOWDON, 1981 © SNOWDON/BRITISH VOGUE 1981 © CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD; SLIDE COURTESY OF ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT; TED BAKER TIE COURTESY OF JOHN LEWIS

32 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES The British Museum presents work by artists including Andy Warhol, Jasper Jones and Julie Mehretu in The American Dream: Pop to the Present.

We are the world’s largest publisher of maps and magazines for visitors. Today, Where can be found on hotel concierges’ desks in more than 80 destinations around the globe.

In this city, we also produce IN London – a portfolio of luxury magazines in Arabic, Chinese and English – and London Planner, the official monthly guide to the capital from VisitBritain and the Mayor’s promotional company, London & Partners.

64 NIGHTLIFE Happy St Patrick’s Day! Enjoy a pint of Guinness or two at an authentic Irish pub. 68 SPAS & SALONS We look at the latest hair salons that are opening up across the capital, which offer treatments from haircuts to blow-dries. 70 ESSENTIALS William Thomson, head concierge at Macdonald Randolph Hotel, shares his tips on how to make the most of your trip.

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72 MAPS A useful map of central London. w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 3

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Where London 2-3pg 10-10-16_Layout 1 04/01/2017 17:49 Page 1 IN OVER 80 CITIES: INFLUENCING AND INSPIRING VISITORS SINCE 1936

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

London with a twist Anyone can take a lift to the top of an iconic building in the city and admire the view, but are you brave enough to abseil off one? I was. I abseiled down the ArcelorMittal Orbit, in the Olympic Park, and it was the most thrilling experience I’ve ever had in the capital. Whether it’s sleeping with lions or climbing The O2, we dare you to see London’s sights in a new and exciting way (p. 10). Few cities have so many women in charge. You don’t have to look too hard to find ladies leading London’s theatres, restaurants and museums – and, of course, we have a female Prime Minister, too – Britain’s second. Read our feature celebrating International Women’s Day (p. 14). When Princess Diana died, the capital mourned in a way that had never been seen before: Buckingham Palace was covered in flowers. This year is the 20th anniversary of her tragic passing – to mark the loss, Kensington Palace is displaying her glamorous outfits, from her beautiful engagement blouse to the dress she wore when she danced with John Travolta (p. 22). There’s a wave of American culture sweeping across the capital: The American Dream: Pop to the Present opens at The British Museum (p. 32), while Hollywood’s classic musical, An American in Paris, comes straight from Broadway to the West End (p. 38). Whatever you do, have a great trip!

KOHINOOR SAHOTA Group Editor Where London Twitter: @WhereLondon Facebook: Where London Instagram: Where London

Abseiling down the ArcelorMittal Orbit

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A river race, a Beatles exhibition and a film festival – these are just a few of the unmissable events in London this March

ULTIMATE FIGHTING CHAMPIONSHIP SATURDAY 18 MARCH

THE HEAD OF THE RIVER RACE SATURDAY 25 MARCH

Watch hundreds of eight-member crews from around the world race down the Thames for the annual Head of the River Race. The route starts at Mortlake and ends at Putney, so choose a spot along the way to watch the action, perhaps from Barnes or Hammersmith Bridge, or in a cosy riverside pub. www.horr.co.uk

If you like your sport full of drama, then the Ultimate Fighting Championship at The O2 is for you. The mixed martial arts sport combines karate, jiu-jitsu, kickboxing, boxing, wrestling and sumo. You’ll have to fight hard to get a ticket, though – last year’s event sold out in just 27 minutes. www.uk.ufc.com

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THE BEATLES AT PROUD GALLERIES CHELSEA FROM THURSDAY 16 MARCH

In 1963, when David Magnus was just 19, he was asked to photograph a relatively unknown band, which happened to be The Beatles. At Proud, you can see The Beatles Unseen: Photographs by David Magnus, which includes images that havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been previously displayed. Highlights include shots from the recording of All You Need is Love, the first live, international satellite television recording. www.proud.co.uk

BFI FLARE FESTIVAL

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The BFI Flare Festival celebrates films and documentaries made by and starring the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender community. As well as screenings, you can listen to talks by directors and take part in question and answer sessions. www.bfi.org.uk/flare

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ST PATRICK’S DAY CELEBRATIONS FRIDAY 17 MARCH-SUNDAY 19 MARCH

If you’re in London on St Patrick’s Day, then you are in for a treat as the capital turns green with revellers celebrating the patron saint of Ireland. On Sunday 19 March, a parade with marching bands, Irish dancers and elaborate floats makes its way down Piccadilly Circus to Trafalgar Square. Enjoy all things Irish, from drinks to ceilidhs, in Trafalgar Square, where there are free live performances and family-friendly activities. www.london.gov.uk

DON JUAN FROM FRIDAY 17 MARCH

David Tennant – most famous for playing the lead role in the BBC series Doctor Who – takes on another iconic part as Don Juan opens at Wyndham’s Theatre. Patrick Marber writes and directs the production, which is adapted from Molière’s play, and gives the story a contemporary twist. Tennant is no stranger to the West End – in 2009 he played a parka-wearing prince in Hamlet and received critical acclaim for his take on the title role. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk

COUNTRY TO COUNTRY FESTIVAL FRIDAY 10-SUNDAY 12 MARCH

Now in its fifth year, the Country to Country festival proves that country music isn’t just popular in the States. The extravaganza – which takes place at The O2 arena – is the largest of its kind in this country and showcases established as well as emerging talent from Nashville and afar. Headliners include Brad Paisley, the Zac Brown Band and Reba McEntire. Reba says: ‘I’m thrilled to be coming back to Europe. You have always been so hospitable to my group and me.’ www.c2c-countrytocountry.com

HOT DATES

MARCH CS the

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Griff Rhys Jones stars in The Miser, which starts tonight at the Garrick Theatre (p. 44) The political play Limehouse opens at the Donmar Warehouse Admire beautiful camellias at Chiswick House and Gardens today (p. 25) Enjoy the classic musical, An American in Paris, which opens in the West End (p. 38) Learn about Women Making Waves at the last surviving tea clipper, Cutty Sark (p. 25) Visit Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece, St Paul’s Cathedral (p. 27) The Women of the World festival takes over the Southbank Centre (p. 14) Celebrate girl power! Today is International Women’s Day (p. 14) You can see Andy Warhol’s work in The American Dream: Pop to the Present (p. 32) Are you a little bit country? The Country to Country music festival starts today

The Kite Runner, based on the novel by Khaled Hosseini, ends today (p. 42) It’s the last day of International Garden Photographer of the Year at Kew (p. 26) Visit Rileys Sports Bar, where you can enjoy sport screened live on big screens Discover unseen images of The Beatles at Proud Galleries Chelsea (p. 7) The National Gallery celebrates Michelangelo & Sebastiano (p. 37) Get out of your comfort zone and visit Pineapple Dance Studios (p. 74) It’s St Patrick’s Day! Grab a pint of Guinness at an authentic Irish pub (p. 64) The Ultimate Fighting Championship takes place today at The O2 (p. 6) Ripley’s Believe It or Not! has curiosities such as a mummified hand (p. 26) Sheena Easton takes the lead in 42nd Street, which opens tonight (p. 42) Visit Madame Tussauds for an experience inspired by the TV show, The Voice (p. 27) See puppets in Running Wild, which opens at the Hackney Empire

The Japanese House: Architecture and Life after 1945 opens at the Barbican (p. 36) BMW Tate Live begins today with talks, installations and screenings (p. 37) On your marks! Watch the annual Head of the River Race (p. 6) The iconic Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club celebrates blues music (p. 47) Climb up the tallest building in Western Europe, The View from The Shard (p. 27) Nina Raine’s play Consent opens today at the National Theatre The black comedy Executioner Number One begins at the Soho Theatre Olly Murs sings his heart out at The O2 arena tonight (p. 47)

Forbidden Forest opens at Warner Bros Studio Tour (p. 28)

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You might have heard of aerial yoga – where you hang in slings suspended from the ceiling – but the yoga class at The Shard takes the concept to new heights. Leo and Mandy from Yogasphere, which specialises in yoga in beautiful locations, lead vinyasa classes for up to 60 participants. The class takes place on the skyscraper’s open-air platform on level 72, or inside on level 69 on colder days. At 1,000ft (305m) high, you’ll be taking part in the world’s highest yoga class. Mats are provided and the price includes viewing time and a goody bag of healthy snacks. £45. www.viewfromtheshard.com

Children will love experiencing life as a 16th-century explorer aboard the Golden Hinde II, a reconstruction of the ship in which Sir Francis Drake sailed around the globe between 1577 and 1580. Actors will allocate crew roles and hand out costumes. You’ll then take part in navigational, gunners’ and barber surgeon workshops and a mock battle before bedding down dorm-style on the gun deck. A breakfast of bread, cheese, fruit and hot chocolate is included. £69; mailing list subscribers £42.95. www.goldenhinde.com

Upgrade your visit to ZSL London Zoo with a sleepover at Land of the Lions. You will spend the night in Gir Lion Lodge – named after the lions’ native Gir Forest in India. The price includes two days’ zoo entry, tours, a two-course dinner, chalet accommodation and breakfast. From £438 per lodge for two people. ww.zsl.org 10 W H E R E LO N D O N I M A R C H 2017

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WONDERS OF LONDON | WHERE NOW

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The O2 arena is famous as a performance venue, hosting stars such as Madonna and Paul McCartney. But it also offers you the chance to go Up at The O2. Wear a suit and harness for a 90-minute climb over a 350-metre walkway. Along the way you’ll have a pit stop at a viewing platform 52m above the ground, where you’ll enjoy 360-degree views across London – look out for Canary Wharf, the Emirates Air Line cable car, the River Thames and the ‘Gherkin’. On a clear day, you can see for 15 miles (24km). Book a sunset or twilight visit to see London sparkle. From £28. www.theo2.co.uk

Sarah Riches discovers how you can climb, abseil down and sleep over at the city’s best-loved attractions, from The O2 to the Tower of London

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Anyone can whizz up this 114.5-metre tower in a lift, but who has the guts to abseil down it? Where London editor Kohinoor Sahota, for one. If you have the nerve, from the top you’ll see for 20 miles (32km) and have a bird’s-eye view right inside Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Thrill-seekers might also want to try its new tunnel slide, created by Belgian artist Carsten Höller, which only opened last year. Running 178m long and 76m high, it’s the world’s longest and tallest slide. The descent takes 40 seconds at 15mph (24km/h), which feels faster than it sounds when you’re whizzing down it! Transparent sections mean you can actually appreciate the view – if you haven’t shut your eyes, that is. Apr-Sep. Abseil £85; slide £17. www.arcelormittalorbit.com

Tower Bridge is certainly London’s grandest bridge – it is 65m tall, has a drawbridge and once, in 1952, a double-decker bus jumped across it as it began to open. In these rare tours, you’ll get the chance to see the inner workings of the landmark. First you’ll watch a film to learn about the bridge’s history and construction before exploring its walkway with its glass floor above the Thames. Technical officer David Duffy guides you around areas that are usually off-limits to the public, such as the bridge control room and cavernous bascule chambers below the river. You’ll also visit the machinery room to see the hydraulics that lift the bridge and admire original features from when construction of the bridge was completed in 1894. Sat-Sun during March. £50, includes a guidebook. Booking essential. www.towerbridge.com The Tower of London is home to the Crown Jewels, but very few visitors know that they can also see the Ceremony of the Keys – a 35-minute ritual in which the gates are locked. It has taken place every night for 700 years, and a Chief Yeoman Warder, who is carrying the Queen’s keys, locks the outer gate and the Middle and Byward Towers. Free. Booking essential. www.hrp.org.uk

PREVIOUS PAGE: UP AT THE O2 COURTESY OF THE O2; YOGA UP THE SHARD © OLIVER DIXON/IMAGEWISE; YOGA © ISTOCK. RUBI, LIONESS © TONY BATES ZSL; GOLDEN HINDE II COURTESY OF GOLDEN HINDE II. THIS PAGE: ABSEILING COURTESY OF ARCELORMITTAL ORBIT; ENGINE ROOMS © CECELINA PHOTOGRAPHY; KEYS COURTESY OF THE TOWER OF LONDON/MARTIN USBORNE

WHERE NOW | WONDERS OF LONDON

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s the world unites to celebrate International Women’s Day (8 Mar), take the opportunity to recognise and enjoy the work of some of London’s leading ladies. From Florence Nightingale and the Suffragettes to Virginia Woolf and Dame Zaha Hadid, this city has been shaped by visionary and pioneering women. For 63 years we have been ruled by one of the most unflappable and charitable monarchs ever to take the throne: Queen Elizabeth II. And while some countries struggle to pave the way for one female leader, we’re on to our second (first Margaret Thatcher, now Prime Minister Theresa May), as women increasingly rise to the top in other sectors of the capital, too. But there’s still more work to be done. If the global events of 2016 taught us anything, it’s that the fight for women’s rights is far from over. Even in London, a city famed for its progressive outlook and equal opportunities, the gulf between men and women – politically, socially and economically – remains startlingly wide. In fact, the World Economic Forum estimates that women around the world won’t be paid the same as men for another 170 years – a projection that many, particularly in the capital, are determined to prove wrong. ‘Events of the past year have shown that, despite great strides by the feminist movement, the world still speaks a largely male language,’ says the Southbank Centre’s artistic director, Jude Kelly CBE, who founded this month’s Women of the World (WOW) festival (7-12 Mar) in 2010. ‘More than ever, we must keep up the fight for gender equality and look at the far-reaching implications of

the current political climate on our women and girls – from the localised to the global.’ Head to the WOW festival this month and hear from famous international artists, writers and activists including US author Angela Davis, co-founder of the Women’s Equality Party Catherine Mayer and actress Gillian Anderson. They will be joined by thousands of women and girls, politicians, business leaders and refugees from across the UK and around the globe, for 200 events across six days, including talks, debates, live music, comedy and workshops. Highlights include the debate What Does Brexit Mean for Women? (10 Mar), Chella Quint’s one-woman show Adventures in Menstruating (11 Mar), and sessions to empower women in the world of technology. Elsewhere in the city, you’ll be confronted with countless examples of what is possible

when women are given the freedom to go after their dreams and succeed. From dining and culture to science and entertainment, we urge you to experience what these extraordinary women in London have achieved. Women of the World festival, 7-12 Mar, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7960 4200. www.southbankcentre.co.uk.

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opposite: noma dumezweni © Charlie Gray; Jude kelly CBE © Sara Shamsavari; tate modern turbine hall © Tate gallery; WOW festival © Belinda Lawley

As International Women’s Day takes place this month, meet the women running the capital, who include a West End star, restaurateur and astronaut, writes Sam Rogg

OPPOSITE: NOMA DUMEZWENI © CHARLIE GRAY; JUDE KELLY CBE © SARA SHAMSAVARI; TATE MODERN TURBINE HALL © TATE GALLERY; WOW FESTIVAL © BELINDA LAWLEY

OUR LEADING LADIES | WHERE NOW NOMA DUMEZWENI

DR HELEN SHARMAN, OBE

Olivier Award-winning actress When Sex and the City star Kim Cattrall had to pull out of the new play Linda at the Royal Court in 2015 due to ill health, it was Noma Dumezweni who stepped into her shoes, just seven days before it opened. Dumezweni, who was born in Swaziland and raised in England, has been loved by audiences and critics alike for her consistently engaging and enthralling performances. She has acted in world-renowned theatre companies, from the Royal Shakespeare Company to the National Theatre, and now she’s in the West End blockbuster, Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, in which she plays an adult Hermione Granger. After seeing JK Rowling’s stage play, actress Emma Watson (who played Hermione in the film franchise) said: ‘Meeting Noma was like meeting my older self and have her tell me everything was going to be all right, which as you can imagine was immensely comforting and emotional.’ Still, Dumezweni’s casting was not without a backlash, as some people took to social media to voice their anger that a black actor would play the role. JK Rowling responded swiftly by telling fans that Dumezweni was chosen because she was the best actress for the job and that Hermione can be a black woman with her ‘absolute blessing and enthusiasm’. Dumezweni once said: ‘I am so passionate about representation because growing up I didn’t see myself and now people can say: “I see myself, there.”’ What to see: Harry Potter and the Cursed Child (Parts One and Two) is at the Palace Theatre.

Scientist and former astronaut In 1989, Sheffield-born chemist Dr Sharman responded to a radio advert, ‘Astronauts wanted; no experience necessary’, beating 13,000 applicants to become the first Briton in space. On 18 May 1991, following 18 months of intensive training, she joined a Soviet Union crew for the eight-day mission, Project Juno, aged just 27. ‘You can’t imagine how deep the [blue] colour is,’ she told The Guardian last year on the 25th anniversary of her launch. ‘There was a window where I slept, and waking up to the world right outside... wonderful.’ In 2013, the UK Space Agency incorrectly described Major Tim Peake as the UK’s first official astronaut. ‘I asked them: “What happened to me?”’ she said. ‘I suspect someone thought that the title would get Tim more attention’. Last year, the Science Museum celebrated Dr Sharman’s ‘silver space anniversary’ with a special event that included tributes from astronauts such as Buzz Aldrin. These days, Dr Sharman still inspires the next generation of scientists, as the operations manager at Imperial College London’s chemistry department. She once said: ‘Fame was the downside of space. I’m a scientist, but I found myself in interviews being asked where I bought my clothes. Irrelevant.’ What to see: The Sokol space suit worn by Helen Sharman in 1991 is on display at the Science Museum.

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Clockwise from top left: Noma Dumezweni; Tate Modern Turbine Hall; Jude Kelly CBE; Women of the World festival

Q&A WITH JUDE KELLY, CBE

What’s the best thing about your job? The people I meet, from all persuasions, who are dedicated to making the world a better place for the many. Which achievements are you proud of? Aside from my children, I’m very proud of having helped found a number of artistic institutions in the UK. However, my most recent endeavour was founding the WOW – Women of the World festival seven years ago. I couldn’t have predicted the global impact it would have: international WOW festivals now reach one million people across five continents. What is the biggest obstacle to gender equality in your profession? Although the opportunities for creative women in Western Europe have grown throughout my career, the permanent obstacle is the feeling that the male artist will be more naturally talented. Men are never referred to as ‘male artists’ and that gives you a clue as to why discrimination is just embedded, due to what we judge as normal as opposed to exceptional. Which places in the city make you feel empowered as a woman? The parks of London. The woman who began the movement for parks and the preservation of open spaces was the National Trust founder Octavia Hill. What makes London special? London has the most languages spoken in the world, which makes it an exuberant and surprising city at almost every turn in terms of food, music, writing, journalism and street life – I think that directly relates to its progressive tolerant nature. What are your ambitions for 2017? I’ve just come back from doing a WOW festival in Kathmandu, and I’m planning the second WOW in Karachi. I’ve also confirmed the dates for Beijing and Sri Lanka. It’s an amazing thing!

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Where now | OUR LEADING LADIES

CAMELLIA PANJABI Restaurateur and author Widely credited with revolutionising the way Indian food is seen in Britain, Camellia Panjabi’s restaurants are not your average curry houses. As director of Masala World, she is the brainchild behind three fine-dining restaurants: Chutney Mary, Amaya and Veeraswamy – the latter was awarded its first Michelin star last year. She also presides over the sophisticated but informal Masala Zone chain, loved by Londoners for its gourmet take on authentic Indian street food. Born and raised in Mumbai, Panjabi went on to study economics at Cambridge University before returning to India to work with Taj Hotels. In 1982 she arrived in London and began her food revolution, opening the first of several regional Indian food restaurants. ‘London is always reinventing itself to be relevant for the times,’ says Panjabi, whose book 50 Great Curries of India has sold more than a million copies since 2004. ‘It’s the ideas capital of the world. It’s great to be a woman in London today – all doors are open to us.’

Clockwise from top left: Dr Helen Sharman at the Science Museum; Frances Morris; The Play That Goes Wrong; Camellia Panjabi; Masala Zone Inset: Nica Burns

She once said: ‘The best thing about my job is creating things which give pleasure to people. I try to give tantalising food in uplifting surroundings and bring moments of joy into otherwise pressurised lives.’ Where to go: Veeraswamy is the UK’s oldest Indian restaurant – try the roast duck vindaloo – or head to a Masala Zone in central London for a traditional thali (platter).

NICA BURNS, OBE Producer and owner of Nimax Theatres Hoping to catch a West End show while you’re in London? If so, there’s a good chance you’ll be sitting in one of Nica Burns’ theatres, which include the Lyric, Palace, Duchess and Vaudeville. A former actor and one-time artistic director of the Donmar Warehouse theatre, Burns is

renowned for her ability to cast Hollywood stars in her plays, whether it’s Christian Slater in One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest (2004) or James McAvoy in Three Days of Rain (2009). This year sees a new theatre opening on Charing Cross Road – the first new theatre to spring up in the West End for three decades. ‘[It] won’t compete with those already in London. It will be a different, very intimate space in a great location, where cutting-edge shows can be performed,’ Burns said in 2012. In December 2016, she also announced that she’s set to launch Classic Spring, a new theatre company with former Shakespeare’s Globe artistic director Dominic Dromgoole. She once said: ‘I love my work and my dream is to drop dead on stage in the middle of a speech at a very advanced age.’ What to see: Thriller Live, Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, The Play That Goes Wrong and Stepping Out are all showing at Nimax Theatres.

dr helen sharman © Thomas Angus/Imperial College London; camellia panjabi courtesy of masala world; masala zone interior courtesy of PETER KOCIHA Photography; the play that goes wrong © Helen Murray; frances morris courtesy of tate modern; nica burns courtesy of nimax theatres

FRANCES MORRIS Director of Tate Modern When you think of London’s world-class art offerings, it’s easy to focus on the artists but behind every incredible gallery there’s someone with an instinct for what to collect and how to present the exhibitions you see. For 30 years, Frances Morris has been that visionary at the Tate – first as a curator, then as head of displays when Tate Modern opened in 2000, then as director of international art and finally as director of the entire gallery in 2016. Her peers describe her as ‘a brilliant and imaginative curator’ with ‘fierce intelligence, and who stamps her own ideas on the gallery’. Remember the giant metal spider created by the artist Louise Bourgeois for Tate Modern’s iconic opening? Through subsequent exhibitions, Morris is credited with helping transform the artist from a little-known sculptor to the global phenomenon that she is today, while also expanding the gallery’s international reach and representation of women artists. She once said: ‘I encourage colleagues to dig a little more when they see interesting work by a woman artist they haven’t heard of before, or to be aware of where women have been overlooked.’ What to see: The first edition of the new BMW Tate Live Exhibition unveils new works by fog sculptor Fujiko Nakaya, and performance artist and DJ Isabel Lewis.

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PERFECT PRINTS You can choose the size of your print, too Henri Matisse’s Snow Flowers print, Tate Modern Shop, Bankside, SE1 9TG

PICTURE PERFECT Set in a Cotswolds village Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose Print by John Singer Sargent, £20, Tate Modern Shop, Bankside, SE1 9TG

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE This image: The Emanuel blouse worn by Diana for her engagement portrait Below: Diana, Princess of Wales

Pretty palaces

Fit for a princess Twenty years after her death, Diana, Princess of Wales, is being celebrated in a temporary exhibition in her former London home, says Sarah Riches charity responsible for Kensington Palace – rediscovered it at an auction. Curator Eleri Lynn says: ‘Diana, Princess of Wales, was one of the most photographed women in the world – every fashion choice she made was closely scrutinised. Our exhibition explores a young woman who had to quickly learn the rules of royal and diplomatic dressing and, in the process, put the spotlight on the British fashion industry. We see her growing in confidence throughout her life, increasingly taking control of how she was represented.’ The exhibition will also feature a temporary White Garden brimming with flowers inspired by the princess – so expect forget-me-nots, Cosmos daisies, Gaura and ornamental grasses. For full listing, turn to p. 25

ELTHAM PALACE Dating from 1086, this palace in Greenwich (www.english-heritage.org.uk ; above) was once home to the half-brother of William the Conqueror and King Edward II. In the 1930s, a millionaire couple, Stephen and Virginia Courtauld, took over the estate, which includes a moat and 19 acres of land. Don’t miss the new map room.

HAMPTON COURT PALACE Henry VIII’s former home (p. 30) sits on the banks of the River Thames in Richmond. Highlights include a chapel, a gallery with paintings by Rembrandt, van Dyck and Canaletto, and kitchens, which once catered for 600 people. Once you’ve explored the house, get lost in the iconic hedge maze.

TOWER OF LONDON Where else can you see an 800-year-old spoon? This magnificent medieval palace (p. 27) is known for housing the Queen’s crown, but a silver-gilt coronation spoon is part of the Crown Jewels’ collection, too. You can also get up close to armour in the White Tower and visit its basement – a former torture and interrogation room.

EMANUEL BLOUSE © SWNS.COM; LADY DIANA © LORD SNOWDON/BRITISH VOGUE 1981/CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS LTD; ELTHAM PALACE © JONATHAN BAILEY/ ENGLISH HERITAGE PHOTO LIBRARY

Diana: Her Fashion Story is a fitting tribute to the ‘people’s princess’, charting Diana’s remarkable life through fashion. The exhibition at Kensington Palace features original sketches by the princess’ favourite designers while tracing her style from the demure outfits she wore for her early public appearances to her glossy 1980s evening gowns and trend-setting 1990s Catherine Walker suits. Highlights include the pink Emanuel blouse she wore for her engagement portrait in 1981 and the blue velvet Victor Edelstein gown she dazzled in while dancing with John Travolta at the White House. Meanwhile, a blue tartan Emanuel suit, worn by Diana on an official visit to Venice in the 1980s, will go on display in public for the first time after Historic Royal Palaces – the 22 W H E R E LO N D O N I M A R C H 2017

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Top Pick

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling by baroque artist Peter Paul Rubens. Daily 10am-1pm, but check before visiting. Adult £6; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with keeper experiences, a play area and a petting farm with donkeys, chinchillas and goats. Daily 10am-4.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

The British Library

Rat race If you’re the type that likes to go for a jog while on holiday, then why not run past rodents, gorillas and the odd meerkat while you’re at it? This month you can give a galloping gazelle a run for its money at the ZSL London Zoo Stampede (26 Mar; p. 26) – a 5km or 10km fundraiser in which 1,000 participants walk, run or jog through the world’s oldest scientific zoo. If you’re too distracted during the run to give the penguins a high five, then you can say hello afterwards, as zoo entry is included in your registration fee.

The world’s largest library also boasts temporary exhibitions and a great permanent collection. Check for opening times. Admission free; charges for tours, some exhibitions and events. www.bl.uk. 96 Euston Rd, NW1 2DB. T: 0330-333 1144. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Buckingham Palace The London residence and principal workplace of the monarchy has 775 rooms. It’s closed to the public (except in summer). www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Sightseeing Coach Tours l Open Top Bus Tours Warner Bros. Studio Tour London l Attraction Tickets Groups l UK & Paris Rail Trips

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Changing the Guard At 11am every Mon, Wed, Fri and Sun, watch the Changing of the Queen’s Guard on the Palace’s forecourt. There is no ceremony in very wet weather. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria.

Chelsea Physic Garden London’s oldest botanic garden, founded in 1673 as the Apothecaries’ Garden beside the River Thames. Admire 5,000 species of plants. Free daily tours. Mon-Fri 11am-3pm. www.chelseaphysicgarden. co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

KidZania London Kids try careers such as radio presenting. Daily from 10am, call for closing times. Adult from £9.50; child from £11.50. www.london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the spooky past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Actors bring this spine-tingling scary attraction to life. Tickets also include admission to the London

Tombs, which are located under the bridge in a former plague pit. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-6pm. Adult £26.95; child £21.45. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The London Dungeon This uniquely thrilling attraction will whisk you back to the capital’s most perilous past. Not for small children or the faint-hearted! Check for times and prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

Chiswick House & Gardens Trust See Old Masters on display in this manor. From 3 Mar: Camellia Show 2017. Admire 33 varieties of camellias. Gardens daily 7am-dusk; house Sun-Wed 10am- 5pm; conservatory daily 10am-4pm. House adult £6.70; child £4. www.chgt. org.uk. Chiswick House & Gardens, W4 2RP. T: 020-8995 0508. Off map. Station: Chiswick Park.

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Cutty Sark This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. 4-5 Mar: Women Making Waves. See figureheads of trailblazing women. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 020-8312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Dr Johnson’s House Writer Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his first English dictionary, first published in 1755, in this period home. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple.

Handel & Hendrix in London The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

HMS Belfast Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament The site of British Parliament since 1265. Watch debates for free when the Houses are in session. Guided and audio tours every Sat. Audio tour adult £18.50; child £7.50 (first child free). Guided tour adult £25.50; child £11. www.parliament.uk/visit. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures. Check for prices and times. www.english-heritage. org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

Kensington Palace This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home (p. 22). Daily, check for times. Adult £17; child free. www.hrp. org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

TAKE AN INTERACTIVE JOURNEY THROUGH LONDON’S SPOOKY HISTORY

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SIGHTSEEING

Coca-Cola London Eye

Madame Tussauds

The O2

This icon is one of the world’s largest observation wheels. Interactive screens in each pod give an insight into the landmarks on view (p. 27). Daily 11am-6pm. Adult £24.95; child £19.95. www.london eye.com. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. F8. Station: Waterloo.

See life-sized waxworks, from the Queen to Adele (p. 27). Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Mon-Fri 10am-4pm; Sat-Sun 9am-5pm. Adult £35; child £30. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Star Wars Identities. See items from the film franchise. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm. Tickets £15-£25. www.theo2. co.uk. Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-8463 2000. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

ZSL London Zoo Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo. 26 Mar: ZSL London Zoo Stampede. A 5km or 10km fundraiser (p. 10 & p. 24). Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £27.04; child £20. www.zsl.org. London Zoo, Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

The Monument Climb this column for views. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. Adult £4; child £2. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument.org.uk. The Monument, Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 0207626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park Formerly the site of the London 2012 Olympics, this includes the ArcelorMittal Orbit (p. 12). Check website for sporting events. Park open 24 hours daily. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympic park.co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! This curiosity-filled museum with more than 700 artefacts is a global hit. Explore oddities from a shrunken head to the world’s tallest man. Daily 10am-midnight. Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleyslondon.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 020-3238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Better known as Kew Gardens, this World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe. To 2 Mar: Orchid Lates. On Tue and Thur, see orchids in the evening. To 12 Mar: International Garden Photographer of the Year. Gardens to 25 Mar daily 10am-5.30pm, from 26 Mar check. Adult £9; child £3.50; charges for special exhibitions. www. kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

Kew Palace This royal retreat in the grounds of Kew Gardens was home to King George III. Don’t miss the Royal Kitchens. Admission free with Kew Garden tickets. www.hrp.org.uk. Kew Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

The Royal Mews Built by John Nash in 1825, this beautiful part of Buckingham Palace houses the Queen’s vehicles and horses. To 25 Mar Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. From 26 Mar daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 0303-123 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Royal Observatory The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Daily planetarium shows that explore the moon, constellations, planets and space objects. Observatory and Meridian Line daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg.co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Sea Life London Aquarium One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life. Please check for times and prices. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! www.sealife.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871663 1678. F8. Station: Westminster/Waterloo.

Shrek’s Adventure! Ride the magical 4D ‘DreamWorks Tours’ bus to step into live actor fairytale-themed show based on the films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium available. Please check for times. Adult £27.50; child £22. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo. 26 W H E R E Lo n d o n I M A R C H 2017

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St James’s Palace

Tower Bridge Exhibition

One of London’s oldest palaces, constructed in the 14th century. Palace and house closed to the public. www.royal.gov.uk. Marlborough Rd, SW1A 1BS. E7. Station: St James’s Park.

This bridge (p. 12), designed in 1884, is one of London’s most famous landmarks (not to be confused with its much older neighbour, London Bridge). Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brass-rubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Holy Communion given daily and classical music performed weekly by candlelight. Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral

Tower of London This landmark is the home of the Crown Jewels. Book ahead online to attend the nightly Ceremony of the Keys (tickets are free; p. 12 & p. 22). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Check for prices. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral has stunning mosaics. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps to the Golden Gallery for a classic London panorama. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

The Vault

18 Stafford Terrace

Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe (p. 10). If you pre-book you can also do yoga on Saturdays (£45). It also hosts silent discos every Saturday 10pm. To 25 Mar Sun-Wed 10am-7pm; Thur-Sat 10am10pm. From 26 Mar daily 10am-10pm. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theviewfromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

This house gives an insight into the personal lives of Punch cartoonist Edward Linley Sambourne. A highlight is a costumed actor-led tour, on which you’ll meet Mrs Sambourne or her parlour maid Mrs Reffell. Wed, Sat-Sun 11am-12.15pm & 2pm-5.30pm. Adult from £7; child from £5. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This venue is home to rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia at the Hard Rock Cafe’s museum. Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The View from The Shard

Turning heads If you ever thought you were a good judge of talent, you can now assume your position at Madame Tussauds’ The Voice UK experience (p. 26). Guests are encouraged to sit in one of the red chairs, which usually seat Sir Tom Jones, Gavin Rossdale, Jennifer Hudson and will.i.am. While you are there, make sure you take a picture of yourself with the new will.i.am waxwork. Edward Fuller, general manager of Madame Tussauds London, says: ‘We’re delighted to feature a wax figure of one of the world’s most renowned musicians.’

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Warner Bros Studio Tour London

Westminster Abbey

Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films. From 31 Mar: Forbidden Forest. Go deep into the forest. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

This abbey is the crowning and burial site of most English monarchs. Mon-Sat, please check for times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster/St James’s Park.

Wellington Arch Climb this magnificent arch for views over the Royal Parks. Joint tickets available with Apsley House. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Apsley Way, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7JZ. T: 020-7930 2726. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

River Trips Circular Cruise Westminster Circular Cruise Westminster operates a hop-on hop-off sightseeing service from Westminster Pier. Boats depart every 40 minutes for Embankment, Festival, Bankside and St Katharine’s Piers (for Tower

of London), returning non-stop to Westminster. Daily 11am-3pm. Adult single £10, return £14; child single £5, return £7. www.circularcruise.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7936 2033. F8. Station: Westminster.

City Cruises Daily guided sightseeing tours on the River Thames between Westminster, Waterloo, Tower and Greenwich piers. River Red Rover is an allday hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Thames Circular Cruise is a 50-minute sightseeing service from Tower Pier or Bankside Pier to Westminster and back. Please check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Departure points vary.

London Duck Tours Ideal if you’re keen for an amphibious adventure. See London’s best-loved sights on land before a thrilling splashdown on the River Thames. Adult £26; child £18. www.londonducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute sightseeing river cruise. From 19 Mar daily 10.45am-7.45pm. Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. Oyster cards valid. River Roamer hopon and off adult £16.30; child £8.15. www.thames clippers.com. Departs various points along the River Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thames River Services This hop-on, hop-off service with live commentary departs from Westminster Pier and St Katharine’s every 30 minutes 10am-4pm for Greenwich Piers and the Thames Barrier. Westminster to Greenwich adult single £12.50, return £16.50; child single £6.25, return £8.25 (35 per cent discount Mon-Fri). www.thamesriverservices.london. Westminster Pier, Victoria Embankment, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7930 4097. F8. Station: Westminster.

Thamesjet Try the most extreme ride on the river. Departs from Westminster Pier. Wed-Sun noon-4pm. Adult from £39; child from £28. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400.

Tours & Guided Walks Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips on open-top double-decker buses. Tickets are valid for 24 hours. A one-day orientation tour includes three walking tours. Adult £30; child £12.50. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.

Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from three guided tours: Royal London at 10.20am; Harry Potter at 1.30pm and Haunting Mysteries at 4.30pm. £5, or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross. 28 W H E R E Lo n d o n I M A R C H 2017

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Billingsgate Roman House & Baths

London Horror Tours

Original London Sightseeing Walk

Discover Roman history that’s survived 2,000 years. The bathhouse, discovered in 1848, is now open to the public. Adult £8; child £6. Please check for times. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 101 Lower Thames St, EC3R 6DL. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Be spooked by tales of Jack the Ripper, the Highgate Vampire and Sherlock Holmes on tours run by Dr Jack – an actor, entertainer and former guide and curator of the Sherlock Holmes Experience exhibition. Please call for times and prices. www.londonhorrortours.co.uk. Various departure points. T: 07722-247660.

Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill Station). Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

London Walks

With more than 60 years’ experience, these live and multilingual open-top guided bus tours take you to the city’s best attractions, allowing you to hop-on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Book a 24- or 48-hour tour before

Capital Taxi Tours A Blue Badge or City of London qualified guide drives you around in a taxi. Choose from London tours by day or night, themed tours and trips to outside the city. Prices vary and are per taxi. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. T: 020-8590 3621.

City of London Guides Walks

London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Walks take two hours and there’s no need to book. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

The Original Tour

Themed walks not offered by other companies, focusing on everything from Fleet Street – the home of journalism – to Smithfield Market and City gardens. Adult free-£12.50; child free-£8. www.city oflondonguides.com. Various departure points.

Evan Evans The oldest and largest sightseeing company in London has been accompanying visitors on city tours and out-of-town excursions since 1930. Visit everywhere from Warwick Castle and Stratfordupon-Avon to Stonehenge and Bath, as well as all the London sights. Please check for times and prices. www.evanevanstours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7950 1777.

Golden Tours From day and city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from the capital to locations such as Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. Please check for times and prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

Golden Tours Open-Top Bus Tours See the sights aboard an open-top bus. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours let you hop-on and hop-off. One-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets. Please check for prices. www.goldentours.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7630 2039.

GoToMidtown Tours More than 100 themed 45-minute free tours around Bloomsbury and Holborn. Most walks do not require pre-booking. 10am & 1pm walks start at the orange information kiosk outside Holborn Tube station (88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA). 11am, 2pm & 5.30pm walks start from the red sculpture in the courtyard of Central St Giles (1 Giles High St, WC2H 8AG). www.gotomidtown.co.uk. Holborn Tube station, 88-94 Kingsway, WC2B 6AA. T: 020-7078 7077. D7/8. Station: Holborn. 1 Giles High St, WC2H 8AG. T: 020-7078 7077. D8. Station: Holborn.

Jack the Ripper Tours Blue Badge Guide Richard Jones’ popular two-hour walks offer an intriguing look at Jack the Ripper. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East. £10. www.jack-theripper-tour.com. Aldgate East Underground station. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

The London Helicopter Tour Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter. Choose from the 12-minute Buzz, 18-minute Sights or 30-minute Max tour – or scare yourself with an 18-minute ‘open door’ ride (£300 per person). Prices start from £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. The POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 0207887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SIGHTSEEING

3 Mar and you’ll receive an extra 24 hours and a free Greenwich river cruise extension. Adult £30; child £15. www.theoriginaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

PlanetPass PlanetPass is an app that allows you to book a private guided tour for up to six people at any time or day. Choose from street art to Jack the Ripper. From £9 per person. www.planetpass.com. Various meeting points. T: 01865-922380.

Royal Albert Hall Tours Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year; please call for times. Adult £13; child £6. www.royalalberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Royal Opera House Home to the Royal Ballet. Tour behind the scenes. Most days 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm, but please check. Adult £12; child £8.50. www.royal operahouse.org. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the West End and City in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.seelondonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours)

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Tour this reconstruction of Shakespeare’s original Elizabethan Globe. Theatre tours Mon-Sun 9.30am-5pm. Exhibition Mon-Sun 9am-5pm. Exhibition and Globe theatre tour adult £16; child £9. www.shakespearesglobe. com. 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Queen’s official residence in Scotland stands at the end of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. To 25 Mar daily 9.30am-4.30pm. From 26 Mar daily 9.30am6pm. Adult £12.50; child £7.50. www.royal collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Wembley Tours

Stonehenge

Go behind the scenes at this football stadium The stone circle is more than 5,000 years old. and concert venue. The tour takes you Daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £15.50; child £9.30. inside the dressing rooms and through www.english-heritage.org.uk. Amesbury, the players’ tunnel. Daily from 10am. Wiltshire, SP4 7DE. T: 0870-333 1181. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Adult £20; child £12. www.wembley Salisbury, then bus or taxi. stadium.com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. The Royal Standard flag Watts Gallery T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. is flown at royal Station: Wembley Park. Artists’ Village residences when An Arts and Crafts gem with the Queen is Victorian paintings and sculptures. present Tue-Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9.50 (Tue £4.75); child free. Down Lane, Compton, Hampton Court Palace Surrey, GU3 1DQ. T: 01483-810235. Off map. Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace Station: Waterloo to Guildford, then bus or taxi. and maze is set in 60 acres of parkland (p. 22). 11-12 Mar: Dusk till Dawn. Sleepover. To 25 Mar Windsor Castle The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s palace, formal gardens and maze daily oldest inhabited castle. 3-25 Mar: Fearsome Knights 10am-4.30pm. From 26 Mar palace, formal and Fair Princesses. Dress up. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. gardens, magic garden and maze daily Adult £20.50; child £12. www.royalcollection.org.uk. 10am-6pm. Adult £18.40; child £9.20. www.hrp. Windsor Castle, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court. to Windsor & Eton Central.

Out Of Town

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

The family-friendly Taxi Tour Company “We meet as strangers and part as friends”

Enjoy a private London tour for 2 or 3 hours, half day or even a full day in an iconic London Taxi.

Departing daily from Green Park

See the sights before taking our ‘Hidden Treasures Tour’ to explore parts of London that tourists never normally get to see.

bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

Themed tours include Harry Potter, Doctor Who, Downton Abbey, James Bond, The Beatles, Ghost tour, Sinister London, ‘It’s only Rock n Roll’ and many more. Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor.

Call us on: 07970 911223 / 07398 200761 or 020 8590 3621 5 star service and reviews

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Cutty Sark Greenwich

â&#x20AC;&#x153;You must get on board this amazing historic ship. We were blown away!"

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Standard Station by Edward Ruscha; Vote McGovern by Andy Warhol; Jackie II by Andy Warhol Below: Flags I by Jasper Johns

The British Museum may be most famous for its treasures from Ancient Greece and Egypt, but this month it’s home to a modern art exhibition about America, which is well worth a visit, says Sam Rogg ‘The American Dream is dead,’ declared Donald Trump during his 2016 presidential campaign run, ‘but... I will bring it back, bigger and better and stronger than ever before.’ Whatever your feelings towards the new President of the United States, he is not the first to question America’s national ethos. For decades, the country’s most celebrated artists have used art to reflect and reject the American Dream, as a new exhibition at The British Museum reveals. Featuring more than 200 modern and contemporary American prints by 70 artists, The American Dream: Pop to the Present (from 9 Mar) traces the artistic momentum of a superpower over the past five decades, from the explosion of Pop Art in the 1960s to the rise of minimalism, conceptual art and photorealism in print artworks. The past 60 years have been some of the most dynamic and turbulent in US history, with explosive issues such as race, AIDS and feminism shaking the country – not to

mention JFK’s assassination, the first moon landing and the Vietnam War. Through it all, American artists have responded with prints to express the USA’s power and influence, from Andy Warhol’s Vote McGovern (1972) screenprint of Richard Nixon, two years before he resigned to avoid impeachment, to Jasper Johns’ iconic Flags I (1973), the most painterly and vivid of all his works. ‘To me, the flag turned out to be something I had never observed before,’ said Johns in

1978. ‘I knew it was a flag, and had used the word flag; yet I had never consciously seen it. I became interested in contemplating objects I had never before taken a really good look at. In my mind that is the significance of these objects.’ Sourced from The British Museum’s outstanding collection of modern and contemporary prints, as well as museums and private collections around the world, this exhibition is a rare and timely opportunity to ponder what the American Dream is and what it ever was. Highlights include works by Roy Lichtenstein, Kara Walker and Robert Rauschenberg, who all took inspiration from the world around them to create highly original and topical art. Free from the constraints of painting and sculpture, these printmakers reached mass audiences with their innovative artworks, revealing deep divisions in society that continue to resonate with us today. For full listing, turn to p. 33

Standard Station, 1966. The Museum of Modern Art, New York/Scala, Florence © Ed Ruscha; Vote McGovern and jackie II © 2016 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York and DACS, London; Flags I Collection of Johanna and Leslie Garfield © Jasper Johns/VAGA, New York/DACS, London 2016 © Tom Powel Imaging

Pop goes the easel

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Museums Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel and the Physio Room, or a Legends Tour led by ex-Arsenal players. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided: adult £20; child £10. Legends: adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only: adult £10; child £7. www.arsenal. com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day, and find lots of fun activities for children. To 28 Apr: Big Bang 30th Anniversary. Original documents from 1986 when electronic trading was introduced. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

The British Museum Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of permanent displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe and India. Regular talks, evening events and performances. From 9 Mar: The American Dream: Pop to the Present. Important exhibition tracing 60 years of a superpower (p. 32). Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

Sebastiano del Piombo’s The Raising of Lazarus © The National Gallery, London

Inc/Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York and DACS, London; Flags I Collection of Johanna and Leslie Garfield © Jasper Johns/VAGA, New York/DACS, London 2016 © Tom Powel Imaging

The Cartoon Museum Dedicated to British comic art from the 18th century to today. To 23 Apr: Future Shock! 40 Years of 2000 AD Features original artworks by Brian Bollard, Carlos Ezquerra and Dave Gibbons. Mon-Sat 10.30am5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Charles Dickens Museum Former home of novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Dickensian Walks on selected Weds & Suns 11.30am. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly tours with past stars of the game (from £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £21 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelseafc. com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871-984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Churchill War Rooms Fortified basement where Sir Winston Churchill worked during World War II. Discover what life was like for the prime minister in the Cabinet War Rooms during the war. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £17.25; child £8.60; under fives free. www.iwm. org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 020-7930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

The Foundling Museum

Imperial War Museum

Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. To 30 Apr: Child’s Play. Major new project by artist Mark Neville exploring childhood play. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundlingmuseum. org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 0207841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth. From 23 Mar: People Power: Fighting for Peace. The evolution of anti-war protests (p. 36). To 12 Mar: Visions of War Above and Below. Imaginative responses to conflict, from surreal depictions of aircraft as creatures, to abstract views of bombing raids and detailed drawings of life in submarines. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Geffrye Museum A museum recreating English interiors across the ages. Tue-Sun & bank holidays 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

The Guards Museum The history and heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguardsmuseum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon that of the adventuring Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman. To 29 Oct: The Robot Zoo. Animals are recreated in robot form. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

Household Cavalry Museum Explore the work of the Queen’s mounted guard, with touchscreen guides and a working stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am; Sun 10am; inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.householdcavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Jewish Museum Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. From 16 Mar: Amy Winehouse Street Art Trail and Installation. See Amy-themed street art throughout Camden by artists such as Captain Kris, Mr Cenz, Philth and Amara Por Dios. From 16 Mar: Amy Winehouse: A Family Portrait. Discover the woman behind the music in this intimate and moving exhibition (p. 34). Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 0207284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Frederic, Lord Leighton is now a museum of his life and work. Permanent collections include fine paintings, drawings and sculptures. To 2 Apr: Flaming June: The Making of an Icon. Leighton’s exquisite masterpiece returns to the ‘House Beautiful’ where it was painted. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £12; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 020-7602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

It takes two They could so easily have become rivals, but when Sebastiano del Piombo met fellow Renaissance master Michelangelo in 1511, the pair forged a friendship and embarked on an artistic relationship. At the time, Michelangelo was in Rome finishing the exquisite Sistine Chapel, but the two artists soon began working together on the Pietà for San Francesco in Viterbo and, later, The Raising of Lazarus, painted for the Cathedral of Narbonne. See both of these works in Michelangelo & Sebastiano at The National Gallery (from 15 Mar; p. 37), alongside pieces that precede their meeting. www.wheretraveler.com 33

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES London Film Museum

Museum of London

Museum of London Docklands

Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles from the films. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.london filmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The world’s largest urban history museum, covering London’s history from pre-Roman times to today. To 26 Mar: Working the Walbrook. A display of rare metal artefacts offering a unique glimpse into the working lives of Roman Londoners. To 14 Apr: Smithfield Walk. Explore scenes of executions, plague and bodysnatching. To 17 Apr: Fire! Fire! Discover London before, during and after the Great Fire of 1666 in an interactive exhibition marking the 350th anniversary of the disaster. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

The intriguing history of the meandering River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. To 4 Jun: The Royal African. Telling the story of the slave trade in the 17th and 18th centuries. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk/ docklands. No 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

London Transport Museum Explore London’s transport system: highlights include red buses, the world’s first Underground steam train and a train carriage dating back to the 1890s. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am-6pm; Fri 11am6pm. Adult £17.50; child free. www.ltmuseum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

National Maritime Museum Spread over several sites, which were originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes the Maritime Galleries and Nelson’s Trafalgar uniform. To 17 Apr: Emma Hamilton: Seduction and Celebrity. Discover the woman who captured the heart of Admiral Horatio Nelson, an extraordinary person in her own right. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Fascinating exhibits about nature’s many wonders with collections covering botany, entomology, mineralogy, zoology and palaeontology. Make sure you see the world-famous dinosaurs, the towering T. rex and a skull of a triceratops. To 10 Sep: Wildlife Photographer of the Year. Annual exhibition illustrating the abundance and vulnerability of life on our planet. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm. ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 020-7942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Discover a side to the late singer Amy Winehouse that few got to see in this intimate exhibition at the Jewish Museum, co-curated by her brother Alex and sister-in-law Riva. Amy Winehouse: A Family Portrait (from 16 Mar; p. 33) brings together many of her possessions, from photographs to clothes, to shine a light on the woman behind the tabloid headlines. The display details her Jewish background and love affair with Camden, while also tracing her musical influences.

amy winEhouse © the Winehouse Family

A London icon

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AMY WINEHOUSE © THE WINEHOUSE FAMILY

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Queen’s House

The Wallace Collection

This 17th-century house now displays a stunning fine art collection. 26 Mar: Sunday Walking Tour: Inigo Jones and the Building of Greenwich. Take a tour around the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site and discover its history (11am & 2pm; £15). Daily 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.rmg.co.uk/queens-house. Queen’s House, Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

The former Wallace family home displays its collection of Rococo art including works by Velázquez and Rubens. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. ww.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Royal Air Force Museum National aviation museum focusing on the Royal Air Force. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.rafmuseum.org.uk. Grahame Park Way, NW9 5LL. T: 020-8205 2266. Off map. Station: Colindale.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses more than 1,500 fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcomecollection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 020-7611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours The original trophies, art, fashions and donations from the current champions are on display. Many interactives and audio guides in 10 languages make this an enjoyable sporting visit for all. To 20 Mar: Reinventing the Racket. Ongoing fun-packed exhibition of the museum’s most iconic and unusual rackets. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum adult £13; child £8. Museum and tour adult £24; child £15. Family offer: one free child to every full-price adult. www.wimbledon.com/museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

Science Museum Enjoy changing exhibitions, an IMAX 3D cinema, a gallery devoted to maths and lots more. Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Ongoing display commemorating the centenary of the Battle of the Somme. To 3 Sep: Robots. Explore the 500-year story of humanoid robots. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.sciencemuseum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870-870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sir John Soane’s Museum The architect Soane’s former home, a Regency townhouse left to the nation in 1837, is a public museum. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Somerset House This Thameside neo-classical 18th-century building houses the famous Courtauld Gallery, Embankment Galleries, cafés and restaurants. To 12 Mar: Hair by Sam McKnight. Major exhibition celebrating the master hairstylist’s 40-year career. Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

Fall in love with Wimbledon

Twinings Museum The home of Twinings since 1706, where visitors can get a taste of its 300-year history at the company’s in-store museum. 26 Mar: Mother’s Day Afternoon Tea Masterclass. Enjoy a quintessentially British spread of treats. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm. Admission free. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

V&A Museum of Childhood National collection of childhood objects dating back to the 16th century. To 23 Apr: Game Plan: Board Games Rediscovered. See some of the world’s most famous board games. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.museumofchildhood.org.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Victoria and Albert Museum The V&A has a collection of fine and applied arts. To 12 Mar: Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. Garments and accessories for men and women, together with photographs and film, advertisements and packaging, reveal the changing concepts of the ideal body. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by

New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:00pm Nearest Underground: Southfields The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Top Pick

Galleries Barbican Art Gallery Multi-arts venue with regular talks and workshops. From 23 Mar: The Japanese House: Architecture and Life after 1945. Domestic architecture. Mon-Sat 9am-11pm; Sun noon-11pm; bank holidays noon11pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 4141. D10. Station: Barbican.

Ben Uri Gallery The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than 1,000 works. Mon 1pm-5.30pm; Tue-Fri 10am5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road.

The Courtauld Gallery

Fight for your rights

Guildhall Art Gallery Art from 1670 to the present day – you can see treasures including Shakespeare’s First Folio. From 31 Mar: Echoes across the Century. Stories of those who fought in World War I. Mon-Sat 10am5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon.gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. T: 0207332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s/Bank.

anti-conscription march 1939 photo © IWM

Explore the evolution of anti-war protests from World War I to the present day in People Power: Fighting for Peace at the Imperial War Museum (from 23 Mar; p. 33). This major exhibition reveals stories of passionate individuals spanning 100 years, with fascinating insights into the struggles they endured for the anti-war cause. Featuring a mix of artworks, banners, posters, audio and film, this powerful presentation traces how the peace movement has changed and developed over the past century. While you’re there, visit the display Edmund Clark: War of Terror (to 28 Aug) – a thought-provoking exhibition about the hidden experiences of state control during the ongoing ‘Global War on Terror’.

European art collection housed in Somerset House. To 29 May: Reading Drawings. Inscriptions that can be found on drawings, such as artists’ signatures. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child free. www.courtauld. ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 0207848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

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ANTI-CONSCRIPTION MARCH 1939 PHOTO © IWM

Visit London and see the world! Discover the treasures of world cultures, from Egyptian mummies and ancient Greek sculpture to African art and Chinese porcelain.

The National Gallery One of the world’s greatest galleries, with works by masters from Monet to Leonardo da Vinci. From 15 Mar: Michelangelo & Sebastiano. Discover the extraordinary artistic relationship between two great Renaissance masters (p. 33). To 21 May: Cagnacci’s Repentant Magdalene. Witness Cagnacci’s masterpiece, which is on view in the UK for the first time in more than 30 years. Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery British history told through portraiture. From 9 Mar: Gillian Wearing and Claude Cahun: Behind the Mask, Another Mask. Works by the French Surrealist artist and the British contemporary artist. From 23 Mar: Howard Hodgkin: Absent Friends. Exhibition of portraits by one of Britain’s leading artists. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Museum’s audio guide helps you make the most of your visit. Find out more about the Museum’s most popular objects or take a themed tour – it’s up to you. The audio guide is available in 10 languages. britishmuseum.org

The Queen’s Gallery Treasures from the Royal Collection. To 17 Apr: Portrait of the Artist. The first exhibition to focus on images of artists from within the Royal Collection. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Sponsored by

Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media, including architecture. To 17 Apr: Revolution: Russian Art 1917-1932. Powerful exhibition exploring one of the most momentous periods in modern world history. Fri 10am-10pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 0207300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art in a renovated Georgian building. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchigallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 020-7811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art. To 5 Mar: Paul Nash. A lifetime’s work by the famous artist, including his earliest drawings and World War II paintings. To 29 May: David Hockney. One of the most influential British artists of the 20th century returns to Tate Britain for his most comprehensive exhibition yet. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Explore London’s history. Discover the story of the capital from prehistoric times to the present day through eight world-class galleries.

Tate Modern International modern art in the transformed Bankside Power Station, plus regular performances and installations. To 7 May: The Radical Eye: Modernist Photography from the Sir Elton John Collection. See one of the world’s greatest private collections of photos. From 24 Mar: BMW Tate Live Exhibition. Ten days of performance, film, music and dance in The Tanks. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

FREE ENTRY museumoflondon.org.uk 020 7001 9844 150 London Wall, London EC2Y 5HN Barbican, St Paul’s, Moorgate

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

The city of love Escape to the city of romance for a night with An American in Paris, a new musical opening at the Dominion Theatre (from 4 Mar). It was originally a jazz number written in 1928 by American composer George Gershwin, inspired by his time spent in Paris. The tune spawned an Oscar-winning film of the same name in 1951, which starred Gene Kelly, as well as a Broadway musical which in 2015 won a host of awards, including four Tony Awards. Leanne Cope, who was formerly with The Royal Ballet, takes the female lead alongside Robert Fairchild, a principal dancer with the New York City Ballet. Both made their musical theatre debuts with the show in Paris at its world premiere, before starring in New York. Now they’re set to make their West End debuts together. Cope says: ‘Performing the world premiere of An American in Paris – in Paris – was a dream come true as far as being in the city where our show is set; just walking the streets was research. Performing on Broadway came with

huge expectations and luckily every expectation was fulfilled, from the opening night to the Tony Awards.’ Fairchild plays Jerry, an American World War II veteran who falls for Lise (Cope) after meeting her in a bar in 1940s Paris. But Jerry is just a painter and Lise, who craves security, agrees to marry his friend Henri and move to the States with him. Can Jerry change her mind before it’s too late? Cope adds: ‘My favourite scene has to be the cabaret scene in act two, where Henri starts singing very nervously in a small club in Montmartre, and we see into his imagination. The stage transforms into a sparkling vision of New York, with the arches of the Chrysler Building, men in top hats and showgirls, with Henri giving the performance of a lifetime.’

But if Cope was Lise, would she choose Henri for his security or Jerry for his charm? ‘Jerry,’ she says, ‘as they have a connection that people can only dream of finding.’ Directed and choreographed by Christopher Wheeldon – artistic associate of The Royal Ballet – the musical features some of Gershwin’s most iconic songs, including I Got Rhythm, ‘S Wonderful and They Can’t Take That Away from Me. Expect a romantic ballet and a masked ball scene as well as fast footwork and high kicks during the jazzy numbers. The team behind War Horse and the London 2012 Olympics Opening Ceremony, 59 Productions, leads the way with projections including a backdrop of the Eiffel Tower – and it doesn’t get much more romantic than that. For full listing, turn to p. 40

AN AMERICAN IN PARIS PHOTOS © MATTHEW MURPHY

Romance is in the air, says Sarah Riches, as the hit Broadway musical An American in Paris comes to London

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‘A DAZZLING SHOW IT’S A PERFORMANCE THAT’S AT ALL TIMES EXHILARATING’ EVENING STANDARD

GUARDIAN

BROADWAY WORLD

THE DAILY TELEGR APH

‘CASEY NICHOLAW’S VERSION IS THE SOLID-GOLD REAL DEAL’ BA Z BAMIGBOYE, DAILY MAIL

TOM EYEN MUSIC BY HENRY KRIEGER ORIGINAL BROADWAY PRODUCTION DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL BENNETT DIRECTED AND CHOREOGRAPHED BY CASEY NICHOLAW BOOK AND LYRICS BY

DAY SEATS AVAILABLE £20 DAY SEATS AVAILABLE FROM 10AM AT THE BOX OFFICE

SAVOY THEATRE | Strand, London, WC2R 0ET | DreamgirlsWestEnd.com

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT WHERETRAVELER.COM

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73. Check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £39.75-£141.25. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844-482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

An American in Paris From 4 Mar: Originally a jazz number written in 1928 by the American composer George Gershwin and then an Oscar-winning film of the same name in 1951, An American in Paris follows an American World War II veteran who falls for a woman in a bar in 1940s Paris (p. 38). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2pm 29 Mar 2pm & 7.30pm). Tickets £17.50-£115. www.anamericaninparisthe musical.co.uk. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter. Mon & WedSat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Book of Mormon

Half a Sixpence

This controversial satire follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.50-£200. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Cameron Mackintosh’s musical theatre version of HG Wells’s novel, Kipps: The Story of a Simple Soul, follows an orphan who unexpectedly inherits a fortune. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £49.75-£127.25. www.halfasixpence.co.uk. Noël Coward Theatre, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4AU. T: 0844-482 5140. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Dreamgirls

Jersey Boys

Musical about the tumultuous journey of a young female singing trio from Chicago. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £20-£145. www.savoytheatre.org. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

42nd Street From 20 Mar: Romantic

To 25 Mar: Hit story of US pop sensations Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. Check for days and times. Tickets £24.50-£149. www.jerseyboys london.com. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844The Phantom of the 871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Opera’s make-up takes two hours to apply and 30 minutes to remove

comedy about a musical extravaganza staged during the Great Depression (p. 42). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£115. www.42ndstreetmusical.co.uk. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844-858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Girls Take That star Gary Barlow has teamed up with Tim Firth – the writer of the film Calendar Girls – to create this musical, which, like the film, is inspired by a true story. It follows a group of women who stripped for a charity calendar. Mon-Sat 7.30pm. Tickets £29.50£69.50. www.phoenixtheatrelondon.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843316 1082. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Kinky Boots

A shoe factory reinvigorates its business after its new owner produces knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthe musical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844-579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-Revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £27.90-£139.40. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King Great adaptation of the Disney film with ingenious costumes and puppetry. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £25-£142.20. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Mamma Mia! A tribute to the music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. Mon-Sat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£72.50. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £25-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Here come the girls Ladies, this one’s for you: Stepping Out sweeps its way to the Vaudeville Theatre (from 1 Mar; p. 44). Choreographed by Tim Jackson and directed by Olivier Award-winner Maria Friedman, the play stars Britain’s Got Talent judge Amanda Holden alongside ex- EastEnders star Tamzin Outhwaite and Holby City favourites Angela Griffin and Nicola Stephenson. The Darling Buds of May writer Richard Harris wrote the original play after being inspired by his wife’s dance class in a north London church hall. After its 1984 West End premiere, it transferred to Broadway before becoming a musical, and then a film starring Julie Walters and Liza Minnelli. Funny and heart-warming, it follows a group of women as they learn to tap dance their way into a charity gala.

Brilliant feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records. By the end of the night you’ll be Dancing in the Street. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£145. www.shaftesbury theatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn.

The Phantom of the Opera Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £23-£128.50. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STEPPING OUT © SIMON TURTLE

Motown the Musical

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ENTERTAINMENT

School of Rock: The Musical Andrew Lloyd Webber’s musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway and is a smash here, too. Mon, Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £15-£129.50. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Stomp An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon.co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Thriller Live Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £30-£90.50. www.thriller live.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Wedding Reception 3, 11, 17-18, 25 & 31 Mar: Will and Kate dreamed

of having an intimate wedding reception – but their family had other ideas. As a guest, you’ll enjoy a three-course dinner and an improvised show. 7.30pm-10pm. Tickets £38-£43. www.interactive theatre.com. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. T: 0845-154 4145. D8. Station: Holborn.

Wicked the Musical The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.wickedthemusical.co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

Plays

The Glass Menagerie

The Comedy about a Bank Robbery A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£49.50. www.thecomedyaboutabankrobbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time

Following a Tony Award-nominated run on Broadway, the award-winning director John Tiffany revives Tennessee Williams’ classic about a family struggling to survive on hopes and dreams. Mon-Sat 7.30pm, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19-£105. www.duke ofyorkstheatre.co.uk. Duke of York’s Theatre, 104 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4BG. T: 0844-871 7627. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

The Goat, or Who is Sylvia?

From 24 Mar: A middle-aged man confides in his friend that he has fallen in love with a goat. A boy with learning difficulties investigates This dark comedy explores the limits a mystery in this award-winning play. a liberal society can be pushed to. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £18-£92.50. www.curious Tickets £15-£95. www.trh.co.uk. onstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, Stomp has used over Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. 30,000 brooms, 20,000 Station: Piccadilly Circus. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: bins, 10,000 drumsticks Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

Death Takes a Holiday

and 50,000 boxes of matches

To 4 Mar: In Italy shortly after World War I, Death disguises himself as a handsome prince in a bid to understand why life is so cherished and death so dreaded. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed 2.30pm; Sat 3pm. Tickets £17.50-£39.50. Charing Cross Theatre, The Arches, Villiers St, WC2N 6NL. T: 0844-493 0650. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. Tickets £59-£69. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.

Top Pick

Hamlet

Andrew Scott makes his Almeida debut in the title role of this William Shakespeare classic, alongside Juliet Stevenson as Gertrude. Mon-Sat 7pm; Wed & Sat 1.30pm. Tickets £10-£60. www.almeida.co.uk. Almeida Theatre, Almeida St, N1 1TA. T: 020-7359 4404. Off map. Station: Highbury & Islington.

The Kite Runner To 11 Mar: Based on Khaled Hosseini’s best-selling novel, this new play is set in Kabul, Afghanistan, during a kite competition just as the country is on the verge of war. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £14.75-£91.75. www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844-482 5120. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

A Midsummer Night’s Dream Dark fantasies and nightmarish visions unfold in this bold take on Shakespeare’s tale of love, betrayal and desire. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£36. www.youngvic.org. Young Vic, 66 The Cut, SE1 8LZ. T: 020-7922 2922. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The Miser From 1 Mar: Molière’s farcical comedy stars Griff Rhys Jones (p. 44). Check for times. Tickets £18.80-£102. www.garricktheatre.org. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7/8. Station: Leicester Square.

A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £17.50-£67.50. www.the-mousetrap. co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844-499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Dancing up a storm

Othello

When a novel becomes a Hollywood film and an award-winning Broadway and West End musical, you know you’re on to something – so the new production of 42nd Street at Theatre Royal, Drury Lane (from 20 Mar; p. 40) is not to be missed. Directed by Mark Bramble, the romantic comedy follows an authoritarian director as he stages a musical extravaganza during the Great Depression. Grammy Awardwinning Sheena Easton stars as Dorothy Brock, a Broadway star who gets injured on opening night. Bramble says, ‘The original production had the look of a Warner Brothers black and white film. This time we’re doing an MGM Technicolor version, with additional songs and dances.’ With hit song and dance numbers such as We’re in the Money and Shuffle off to Buffalo, let’s just hope nobody does break a leg!

The Play That Goes Wrong

The theme of jealousy runs through William Shakespeare’s tragedy about a man envious of his commander’s success and power. Check for times. Tickets £10-£62. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £22-£67.50. www.theplay thatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844-482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

42nd street courtesy of theatre royal, drury lane

The Mousetrap

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ENTERTAINMENT

Roundelay

Ugly Lies the Bone To 18 Mar: Visible, a new company

for older performers, performs this circus-slash-danceslash-music show, which is inspired by the scandalous play La Ronde/Reigen. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm. Tickets £12-£20. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

Stepping Out From 1 Mar: Nicola Stephenson and Angela Griffin are among the TV stars in this heart-warming comedy following a group of dancers entering a charity gala (p. 40). Check for times. Tickets £24-£102. www.vaudeville-theatre.co.uk. Vaudeville Theatre, 404 Strand, WC2R 0NH. T: 0330-333 4814. E8. Station: Charing Cross/Covent Garden.

Travesties Following a sell-out run at the Menier Chocolate Factory, this revival of Tom Stoppard’s war-time comedy transfers to the West End. It follows a diplomat living in Zurich during World War I. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £24.25-£102. www.apollotheatrelondon.co.uk. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EZ. T: 0844-871 3001. Off map. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hard-hitting play about the trauma of fighting on the frontline (p. 46). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.15pm. Tickets £15-£50. www.nationaltheatre.org.uk. Lyttelton Theatre, National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

The White Devil Annie Ryan’s dystopian reimagining of John Webster’s Jacobean tale. Check for times. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Festivals & Events St Patrick’s Day 17-19 Mar: An annual festival celebrating the patron

saint of Ireland. There will be celebrations across the city, including a parade in central London and a party in Trafalgar Square. Free. www.london.gov.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7983 4750. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

Opera

Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?

London Coliseum

Version of the Broadway hit starring Conleth Hill and Imelda Staunton. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£90. www.whosafraidofvirginia woolf.co.uk. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Home to the English National Opera. All productions are sung in English. To 14 Mar: The Winter’s Tale. This new work, directed by the Olivier Award-winning actor Rory Kinnear, includes three international singers whose careers were nurtured by the English National Opera: Iain Paterson, Sophie Bevan and Leigh Melrose. Check for times and prices. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The Woman in Black Spooky story about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£49.50. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844-871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Dance Barbican 2-4 Mar: Ballet Black. A triple bill by international dancers of black and Asian descent, set to a Shostakovich string quartet. 7.45pm. Tickets £16-£30. www.barbican.org.uk. Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

London Coliseum 15-24 Mar: Partenope. Rosmira still loves the man

who jilted her, Arsace. But he is in love with the beautiful Partenope. 7pm. Tickets £30-£125. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Royal Opera House The Royal Ballet Company’s home base. To 14 Mar: The Sleeping Beauty. Celebrate 70 years of The Royal Ballet’s landmark production of Petipa’s classic ballet, with music by Tchaikovsky. Check for times and prices. www.roh. org.uk. Bow St, WC2E 9DD. T: 020-7304 4000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sadler’s Wells Company Wayne McGregor and Paris Opera Ballet perform in a dance that was a hit at the Manchester International Festival in 2015. Check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

Concerts: Classical

A run for their money A revival of the classic French play The Miser takes to the stage at the Garrick Theatre (from 1 Mar; p. 42). Fast-moving and farcical, it was written by Molière and first performed in 1668 in Paris. This new adaptation by Sean Foley and Phil Porter sees Griff Rhys Jones take the lead role as Harpagon, a stingy widower who is more concerned with money than he is with his children. Rhys Jones first gained prominence in the BBC’s hit comedy series Not the 9 O’Clock News, and is joined by fellow comedian Lee Mack, who is making his West End debut.

Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 4 Mar: Imperial College Symphony Orchestra. The university orchestra performs Sibelius’ Violin Concerto, Ravel’s Daphnis and Chloe Suite No 2, Bernstein’s Symphonic Dances from West Side Story, plus more. 10 Mar: Giovanni Allevi. A piano solo. 14 Mar: RPO Preludes. Katherine Lacy on clarinet performs alongside the RPO string section as they perform Mozart’s Clarinet Quintet. Check for prices. www.cadogan hall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

the miser photo courtesy of garrick theatre

4-11 Mar: Tree of Codes. Fifteen dancers from

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LONDON’S NO.1 SIGHTSEEING TOUR ON THE THAMES

kids gofree with a FAMILY RIVER PASS

Big Ben, The London Eye, Tower Bridge and more. See the best views in London with our River Thames sightseeing cruise, with City Cruises’ boats departing every 30 minutes and tickets starting at £10.00.

BUY TICKETS ONLINE

citycruises.com OR CALL

+44 (0)20 77 400 400

THE MISER PHOTO COURTESY OF GARRICK THEATRE

Ticket types We offer a range of ticket types, from single & return journeys to hop-on, hop-off 24 and 72 hour River Passes. Cruises depart Every 30 minutes from our piers at Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich.

www.wheretraveler.com 45

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ENTERTAINMENT

Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall, home to the annual BBC Proms. 6 Mar: Classical Music on Film. With a screening of The Trout. 8 Mar: Catrin Finch. On the harp, as part of the Love Classical Festival. Check for times and prices. www.royalalberthall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.

Royal Festival Hall 5 Mar: The Philharmonia Orchestra performs Tchaikovsky’s Sixth Symphony. 13 Mar: Barts Choir Presents The Sea and the Sky. London’s largest professionally rehearsed choir presents four British masterpieces. Check for times and prices. www.southbankcentre.co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Southbank Centre, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 0844-545 8252. E8. Station: Waterloo.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Church

A tasty slice of history in Trafalgar Square Discover the award-winning Café in the Crypt underneath St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Open daily with special offers including traditional English breakfast, afternoon tea and pre-concert and pre-theatre lunch and dinner. Concerts and services run throughout the week in the church upstairs including free lunchtime concerts on Monday, Tuesday and Friday at 1.00pm

Read our reviews on

www.smitf.org

Brave new world Hard-hitting and topical, Ugly Lies the Bone (to 1 Apr; p. 44) at the National Theatre follows Jess, who is suffering from trauma after fighting on the frontline in Afghanistan. Women are at the helm here; the director is Indhu Rubasingham, the artistic director of north London’s Tricycle Theatre, while Lindsey Ferrentino has written the script. Kate Fleetwood plays the soldier, who we see returning to her home in Florida, only to realise that things have changed even more than she has. Using virtualreality video-game therapy, she creates a new world to escape her pain.

ugly lies the bone image courtesy of national theatre

Extensive programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals in this landmark church. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

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UGLY LIES THE BONE IMAGE COURTESY OF NATIONAL THEATRE

Wigmore Hall Famous concert hall for regular recitals.2 & 4 Mar: Paul Lewis on piano plays Bach, Beethoven, Chopin and Weber. 8 Mar: The Endellion String Quartet plays Haydn, Mendelssohn and Sibelius. 12 Mar: Simone Lamsma on violin and Robert Kulek on piano play Schubert, Arvo Pärt and Strauss. Check for times and prices. www.wigmore-hall.org.uk. 36 Wigmore St, W1U 2BP. T: 020-7935 2141. D6. Station: Bond Street.

‘I DARE YOU NOT TO GET UP AND DANCE!’ SALLY BOAZMAN, BBC RADIO 2

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall 9 Mar: Seth Lakeman. Folk ballads from the singer/

songwriter. Please check for times and prices. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 11-12 Mar: Black Voices Quintet Present: Nina Simone. 21 Mar: Ronnie Scott’s Presents: Brooklyn Funk Essentials. Please check for times and prices. www.thejazzcafe london.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The O2 Enormous venue for live music. 1 Mar: Kaiser Chiefs. Indie rock. 7-8 Mar: The Weeknd. Alternative R&B band. 25-26 Mar: Craig David. Part of the star’s My Intuition tour. 30 Mar-1Apr: Olly Murs. Pop. Check for times and prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 7-10 Mar: Kenny Garrett Quintet. The saxophonist and his band will get you dancing to their traditional jazz tunes. 26 Mar: Ronnie Scott’s Blues Explosion! Please check for times and prices. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

CHILDREN & FAMILIES The Curious Adventures of Pinocchio From 29 Mar: One of the best-loved classics for

children comes to life, literally. Crickets, cats, foxes and the world-famous puppet will spring out of a collection of dusty old magic books. Suitable for children aged five to 11. Adult £10; child £8. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

The Magic Lamp 22-26 Mar: The story of the lamp-dwelling genie is told using music, paper, water and oil in a shadow puppet show. Suitable for five to 11 year olds. Check for times and prices. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

FILM The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films in the intimate screening rooms while dining on food that’s served directly to your seat. Check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/the lounge. Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway. www.wheretraveler.com 47

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SHOPPING | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: Tortoise, Community Clothing and Deadwood, all available at Selfridges’ Material World

Sustainable style While most people agree with ethical fashion – making garments in fair working conditions, while protecting animals and the environment – it can be hard to find places where you can shop with a clear conscience. We have helped make that search easier by finding stores where you can buy clothes that are not only ethical, but stylish and affordable, too. Step forward Selfridges. The department store (p. 51) is known for being forward-thinking: last year it opened a theatre in the store, and collaborated with singer Beth Ditto on a plus-size collection. This year, Material World (to 31 Mar) sees the shop launch a campaign with the motto ‘buying better, inspiring change’. Linda Hewson, creative director of Selfridges, says: ‘Material World will examine sustainable textile development, with a focus on social, local and global production stories. The project will explore current problems and their impact as well as presenting solutions and ideas, with honesty and humour, in a retail environment.

Through Material World, we want to invite consumers and the industry to refashion the way we think about our clothes, and how we talk about sustainability.’ Eight young designers – who use materials such as plastic, leather and cotton in surprising ways – are being championed by the store, because of their sustainable outlook. Dutch brand Dick Moby uses Bio Acetate and 97 per cent recycled plastic to make its frames, while menswear brand Tengri uses Fairtrade Mongolian yak hair in its knits. You don’t have to look too far to find ethical independent shops in the capital, too. When Kate Richards no longer enjoyed her job, she decided to set up her own shop. ‘Frustrated by the poor quality of most things in my wardrobe, and uninspired by high-street shops, I began to seek out clothes that had a story behind them,’ she explains. Established in 2012, The Keep in Brixton sells men’s and women’s wear and stocks brands including Ace & Jig, People Tree

and Desmond & Dempsey (Granville Arcade, 32 Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8PR ). Anyone for vegan shoes? Couple Angela and James set up The Third Estate in Camden, which also stocks ethical clothing and accessories for men and women. ‘It’s so important to have the chance to see an item, ask questions about it and make sure it’s just right,’ they say (27 Brecknock Rd, N7 0BT ). If you love sleek aesthetics, visit Family Tree in Clerkenwell, London’s design quarter. Opened by Takaka Copeland, a Central Saint Martins graduate, and Jo Waterhouse, an artist, designer and antique dealer, the shop sells stationery, jewellery and homeware made by local craftspeople (53 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL). Meanwhile, next month, Fashion Revolution Week (24-30 Apr) takes place in countries as far flung as Zimbabwe and Paraguay. Raising awareness about the cost of fashion, London venues ranging from Somerset House to the House of Commons will play host to catwalks and talks (www.fashionrevolution.org).

TORTOISE © LYDIA LYNN MURTY; COMMUNITY CLOTHING AND DEADWOOD COURTESY OF SELFRIDGES

As Selfridges’ Material World promotes eco-friendly fashion, and Fashion Revolution Week takes place, Kohinoor Sahota looks at the shops championing sustainable clothing and shoes across the capital

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of WhereÂŽ in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

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which is a landmark in its own right. The leading department store contains men’s and women’s wear, as well as world-famous prints that you can find in its haberdashery department, on its scarves and adorning the stationery. Regent St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. www.libertylondon.com

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

MAJOR STORES

Westfield London

Specialist Stores

Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

This mall has more than 300 shops, from high-street names to high-end fashion labels, as well as KidZania, where kids can try out different careers such as radio presenting and fire fighting. www.westfield. com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Map inset. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Fortnum & Mason

Westfield Stratford City

This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

John Bell & Croyden

Europe’s largest shopping centre. www.westfield. com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Map inset. Station: Stratford.

Hamleys

jewellery & watches

The ‘Queen’s chemist’ also has a walk-in clinic for vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Fenwick

One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon6pm.www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food and meat halls, men’s, women’s and children’s fashion departments, cosmetics, spa, accessories and bars and restaurants. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis Find fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed & Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Links of London Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Pandora Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Kids’ stores Nickelodeon Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Buckingham Palace Shop Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

London Glassblowing Dazzling glass art plus workshops where you can create your own glass pieces. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

M&M’s World Sweet treats, including a giant M&M’s World and London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Twinings Trading since 1706, this shop is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Enjoy a free Tea Tasting session. Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop with items created by British designers. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Marks & Spencer Reliable source for lingerie and food, as well as many fashion collections (multiple locations around London). Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.marksandspencer.com. 458 Oxford St, W1C 1AP. T: 020-7935 7954. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Selfridges

image courtesy of ideal home show

The finest products in beauty and fashion, including exclusive and limited-edition products. Includes a large denim studio and new Body Studio with lingerie, nightwear and sportswear (p. 48). Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Malls & Factory Outlets Bicester Village Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicester village.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major London hotels.

Home sweet home Home is where the heart is, they say. The Ideal Home Show (24 Mar-9 Apr), which is taking place at Olympia London, isn’t just for people who want to make dramatic changes to their home. There are exhibitors promoting everything from garden accessories to the latest gadgets, and guest speakers including the celebrity interior designer Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen. DIY enthusiasts should visit the Home Improvements Theatre, while the Interior Styling Stage offers advice on upcycling and storage solutions. Olympia London, Hammersmith Rd, W14 8UX. T: 0844-858 6793. www.idealhomeshow.co.uk. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia www.wheretraveler.com 51

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Ditch the ‘I love London’ OT-shirts N D and C visit We Built this City for a stylish souvenir. London’s top designers, such T R EasEKristjana T S Williams, Cecily Vessey S N O T BRUT ORD STREE C L I F Fcreated and Will Clarke, have items COACH & H O R S E Snecklaces including artwork, mugs, YARD and cushions. Look out for eccentric RD ST CLIFFO ones, from London’s rainwater to a brick vase (above), or take part in one GRAFTON ST of the instore craft workshops. 56B Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. www.webuilt-thiscity.com H AY H I L L

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Murdock London is home to a traditional barbershop with grooming services for men, from beard trims to wet shaves. It also includes a shop that sells high-end styling products, including skincare goods, cologne and shaving kits. 18 Monmouth St, WC2H 9HB. T: 020-3393 7946. www.murdocklondon.com

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ET ER STRE 14/02/2017 13:26

SHOPPING

Shopping Essentials

SHIPPING COMPANIES If you are buying items that you don’t wish to carry home, here is a selection of central London companies that can assist in delivering your goods. Please check the websites below for your most convenient branch. DHL: Ryman, 227 Kensington High St, W8 6SA. T: 020-7937 1107 Ryman, 64 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3LQ. T: 020-7581 0858 Homebase, 195 Warwick Rd, W14 8PU. T: 020-7602 5125. www.dhl.co.uk

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female shopper courtesy of westField; shop exterior courtesy of selfridges; carnaby street © iStock

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Mail Boxes etc: 72 Great Titchfield St, W1W 7QW. T: 020-7580 9111

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28 Old Brompton Rd, SW7 3SS. T: 020-7581 2825 95 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1BZ. T: 020-7630 8123. www.mbe.co.uk Pack & Send: 124 N End Rd, W14 9PP. T: 020-7381 9000 417 Upper Richmond Rd, SW14 7PJ. T: 020-

8392 6990. www. packsend.co.uk UPS: Food & Wine, 20 Wellington St, WC2E 7DD. T: 0845-687 7877 Great Portland Street News, Great Portland St, W1W 5PS. T: 0845-687 7877 Londis, 77-79 Union St, SE1 1SG. T: 0845-687 7877. www.ups.com Post Office: The Plaza Oxford St, W1D 1LT 54-56 Great Portland St, W1W 7NE 111 Baker St, W1U 6SG 32a Grosvenor St, W1K 4PA 9 Russell Square, WC1B 5EQ All branches: T: 0845-611 2970. www.postoffice. co.uk

OPENING TIMES Opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 11am4pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

Tax-Free Shopping Value Added Tax (VAT) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books, and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask in-store for more information about tax-free shopping. www.wheretraveler.com 53

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: Brasserie Zédel; Sophie’s Steakhouse; Cafe Murano Below: Brasserie Zédel

Showstopping suppers There’s less than 90 minutes before the curtain rises on your West End show and you’re in central London, desperately trying to find somewhere nearby to dine. This is no time for indecision. Take it from us and make a beeline for one of these excellent restaurants where the pre/post-theatre menus are sensational and the service is sympathetically swift. Located in Covent Garden, this second branch of the famed Café Murano from acclaimed chef Angela Hartnett (the original Murano in Mayfair is Michelin-starred) is a relaxed yet elegant spot for a hearty bite of northern Italian cuisine. On the theatre menu (from £16.50; Mon-Sat midday-7pm; 10pm-11pm), expect simple rustic delights such as salt cod with polenta and green olives followed by trout with beetroot and apple salad. The counter is excellent for solo dining, too (34-36 Tavistock St, WC2E 7PB). With its vast dining room, buzzing atmosphere and an army of incredible chefs

capable of turning out two or three courses in rapid succession, Sophie’s Steakhouse (p. 56) is one of Theatreland’s best-value restaurants. Enjoy its delicious offerings at a pre/postshow feast (from £15; daily noon-7pm; 10pmclose). Begin with fried calamari, followed by a classic hamburger or steak frites, then finish with a satisfyingly traditional cheesecake. When you choose the theatre menu, £1 will be donated to a children’s charity, so you can feel good about indulging here.

Bringing a slice of Parisian glamour to Piccadilly Circus, the glorious art deco basement at Brasserie Zédel (p. 58) is a sight to behold. Its sheer size means you rarely have to wait long for a table and there are two set menus to choose from all day: a simple but filling ‘Prix Fixe’ (from £9.75) with an excellent tarte aux fruits, or a ‘Formule’ (three courses and wine for £19.75) featuring the restaurant’s much-loved bœuf Bourguignon. For something different, try the celebrated Hungarian restaurant Gay Hussar in Soho, which has wowed diners for more than 50 years. Inside, dark wood panelling and shelves of political biographies set the tone for authentic dishes of Wiener schnitzel and veal goulash. The pre-theatre menu is particularly popular (three courses £19.95; Mon-Sat 5.30pm-7pm; 2 Greek St, W1D 4NB ). One final tip: advise staff of the precise time you need to leave by, then sit back and relax while they work their magic to ensure you’re fed and out on time.

brasserie zÉdel photos © brasserie zÉdel; meat room © sophie’s steakhouse; cafe murano © murano restaurant london

If you fancy a meal before you watch a West End show, there are plenty of places that will give you time to find your seat before the curtain rises. Sam Rogg rounds up the theatre menus that are worth an encore

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to map coordinates (p. 72-73)

AmericaS (NORTH & SOUTH) Avenue Contemporary American dishes and wines in a Manhattan-style setting. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat brunch & D; Sun brunch only. www.avenuerestaurant.co.uk. 7-9 St James’s St, SW1A 1EE. T: 020-7321 2111. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chiltern Firehouse This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chiltern firehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Colony Grill Room Wood-panelled dining room inside The Beaumont evokes 1920s America with olde-world US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrillroom.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 020-7499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Gaucho Great place for succulent Argentine steaks. Wine bar, wine boutique for tastings, supper lounge and entertainment available. ££££. Daily L & D (branches throughout London). www.gauchorestaurants.co.uk. 25 Swallow St, W1B 4QR. T: 020-7734 4040. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Goodman This premium New York steak house now has a loyal following in London. Quality US and British grain-fed beef come in a choice of T-bone, rib-eye, sirloin and fillet. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.goodman restaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 0207499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Oblix

Butlers Restaurant

Rise up to the 32nd floor of London landmark The Shard for ultra-sophisticated New York-style rotisserie/grill cuisine and amazing views. An ‘interactive sommelier station’ allows you to get involved in your wine choice. £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Enjoy top English cuisine in a homely Mayfair restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.chesterfield mayfair.com. 35 Charles St, W1J 5EB. T: 020-7491 2622. E6. Station: Green Park.

Planet Hollywood Huge London outlet of the international chain. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planet hollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforestcafe. co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 0207434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London Dine in the ME London hotel’s steak house on British and American prime steaks. There is a raw bar, too. ££££. Daily D (from 5pm). www.stkhouse.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

british (Modern) Aqua Shard Contemporary British cuisine and fantastic views. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.aquashard.co.uk. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-3011 1256. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Cheneston’s Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

City Social This award-winning restaurant and bar from Jason Atherton boasts beautiful views across the city. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

The Clove Club Set in the elegant Shoreditch Town Hall, this Michelinstarred restaurant focuses on British dishes made from seasonal produce. £££. Tue-Sat L; Mon-Sat D. www.thecloveclub.com. Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St, EC1V 9LT. T: 020-7729 6496. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Experience the first London restaurant from this multi-award-winning superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerby heston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Looe Bay mackerel grilled with soy, miso and fennel jam courtesy of temple and sons

cafe murano © murano restaurant london

Hard Rock Cafe London’s original burger joint is now more than 40 years old. It has an impressive collection of rock memorabilia, funky décor and a fun atmosphere. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock. com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Heliot Steak House Steak house at the Hippodrome Casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Jackson + Rye American diner-style dishes. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.jacksonrye.com. 56 Wardour St, W1D 4JG (and branches). T: 020-7437 8338. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

JW Steakhouse Top-quality steak house offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse.co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Lima Michelin-starred contemporary Peruvian cuisine. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.limalondon.com. 31 Rathbone Place, W1T 1JH. T: 020-3002 2640. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

A British gem Inspired by traditional British grocery stores, Temple and Sons is a new restaurant in the City from acclaimed chef Jason Atherton. Choose from two spaces: a sleek grill restaurant or the all-day deli and bar serving small plates. To start, try a glass of British bubbles and the pork haslet (similar to meatloaf) and Maldon oysters Rockefeller with confit lemon salad, followed by Looe Bay mackerel grilled with soy, miso and fennel jam. Dessert options are just as British; try the sticky toffee pudding or a Victoria sponge. Perfect for a business lunch or intimate dinner – bravo, Mr Atherton, you’ve done it again. 22 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7710. www.templeandsons.co.uk. D10. Station: Liverpool Street/Bank www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING

Fera at Claridge’s

Rex Whistler Restaurant

The Ritz Restaurant

At this art deco restaurant, chef Simon Rogan serves great food made with organic ingredients. Intimate six-seater dining room Aulis allows guests to get up close to the chefs. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Check out the mural in this Tate Britain restaurant. ££. Daily L. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8825. G8. Station: Pimlico.

One of London’s prettiest dining rooms serves classic British dishes. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Garfunkel’s A range of popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and a salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels.co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU (and branches). T: 0207930 8087. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the iconic Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 0207323 8990. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Holborn Dining Room Smart brasserie adjoining the Rosewood hotel serving classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborndiningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

Indigo Restaurant Informal all-day restaurant inside hotel One Aldwych, which is gluten-free. ££-£££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.onealdwych.com. 1 Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Rabbit Three brothers use locally sourced ingredients. £££. Mon D; Tue-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.rabbitrestaurant.com. 172 King’s Rd, SW3 4UP. T: 0203750 0172. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

St Pancras Grand Brasserie located in St Pancras Station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St. Pancras.

Rules

British (Traditional)

Solidly British, long-established restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate. Hearty appetites are needed! ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Covent Garden.

Café in the Crypt

Serpentine Bar & Kitchen

Underneath a landmark church, this café serves great English food at reasonable prices. £. Mon-Sat B; daily L. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

The restaurant’s terrace beside the lake is the perfect place to relax. Enjoy British classics such as fish and chips. £. Daily B & L. www.benugo. com/restaurants/serpentine-bar-kitchen. Serpentine Rd, Hyde Park, W2 2UH. T: 020-7706 8114. E5. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Mews of Mayfair Stunning four-floored venue includes a brasserie and a cocktail bar. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsof mayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Old Masters Carvery and Grill Room Dine under chandeliers in this buffet-style carvery.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Relaxed bar-restaurant in Theatreland. Try the Aberdeen Angus roast beef (p. 54). £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

££££. Daily B & D; Mon-Fri L. www.rubenshotel.com.

The Wolseley

The Rubens at the Palace, 39 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PS. T: 020-7834 6600. F6. Station: Victoria.

The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie. Its breakfast is legendary. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

Park Terrace Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London, this restaurant overlooks Kensington Gardens. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk. 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

Chinese Bright Courtyard Club Wonderful, top-notch Cantonese and Shanghai dishes in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chai Wu Located on the fifth floor of world-famous department store Harrods, this modern restaurant serves dishes made with luxury ingredients. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hakkasan Multi-award-winning restaurant and bar with modern Chinese cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Min Jiang

It’s rare that a vegetarian restaurant pleases carnivores, vegetarians and vegans alike, but The Gate, which opened recently in Marylebone, is proving to be a huge success. Its white brick walls are the perfect backdrop, as they let you focus all your attention on the flavours. This place ticks all the boxes: efficient, friendly staff, generous portions and an excellent chef. Try the miso-glazed aubergine and three-onion tart, followed by a tofu and avocado salad and a wild mushroom risotto in a pool of creamy sauce. If you have room, finish off with a banoffee pie and you’ll still be full the next morning. 22-24 Seymour Place, W1H 7NL. T: 020-7724 6656. www.thegaterestaurants.com. D5. Station: Marble Arch

Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is especially popular for its dim sum. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchina group.co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Yauatcha Sleek, award-winning dim sum restaurant from Alan Yau, set in the heart of Soho. £££. Daily L & D. www.yauatcha.com. 15-17 Broadwick St, W1F 0DL. T: 020-7494 8888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

grilled halloumi chickpeas © Uyen Luu

Vegging out

Take in glorious views across Hyde Park while enjoying superb Sichuan cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

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grilled halloumi chickpeas © Uyen Luu

LONDON’S BEST RESTAURANT CRUISE Travel through the heart of the city and enjoy the striking sights, live entertainment and delicious food on board our ‘f loating restaurant’.

LUNCH AFTERNOON TEA DINNER

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The Society of the Golden Keys of Great Britain (Les Clefs d’Or) Welcomes you to London. Please visit the concierge desk during your stay - nobody knows the UK like Les Clefs d’Or.

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www.wheretraveler.com 57

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DINING

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

Traditional fish and chip shop decorated with 1950s memorabilia. £. Daily L & D. www.poppiesfish andchips.co.uk. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

1 Lombard Street Gutsy, modern cooking under a glass dome. Brasserie £££; Restaurant ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay Situated in Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by central Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvinat windows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy One of London’s great restaurants and a favourite with celebrities. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Maze VICTORIA and ALBERT MUSEUM Together with renowned food historian Natasha Marks, the V&A has recreated Queen Victoria’s afternoon tea (above). Served in the Morris Room (the first museum café in the world), the menu includes sweet and savoury delicacies from the Victorian period such as Mrs Beeton’s cucumber sandwiches, Indian ham sandwiches, asparagus and Parmesan tart, iced orange cake and fruit sconelets, served with a tea of your choice, plus an optional glass of Prosecco. Available Sun only. Booking essential. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7924 2000. www.vam.ac.uk

InterContinental Park Lane With a view of London’s Wellington Arch from every seat, the five-star hotel’s Wellington Lounge is a spectacular setting for a Royal Afternoon Tea. Dainty English classics such as Speyside smoked salmon sandwiches and warm buttermilk scones are followed by delicate desserts, including Her Majesty’s rumoured favourite: coffee mousse and walnut torte. Excellent service and awardwinning teas complete the package, which will leave you feeling like royalty. Park Lane, W1J 7QY. T: 020-7409 3131. http://parklane.intercontinental.com

Ichi Sushi & sashimi Bar If you’ve been overdoing it with sandwiches lately, why not try a healthy sushi afternoon tea? Located on the South Bank, with views of Big Ben, this intimate bar serves sushi and sashimi in its tea package, followed by cakes, such as green tea and chocolate Japanese savarin – a ring-shaped, liqueur-soaked sponge – and a coconut, passion fruit and strawberry ‘temptation’. Ask to sit at the bar so you can see the skilled chefs at work. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7373. www.ichisushi.co.uk

Modern European dishes are given an Asian twist at Gordon Ramsay’s award-winning restaurant. £££. Daily L & D. www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/ maze. 10-13 Grosvenor Square, W1K 6JP. T: 020-7495 2211. E6. Station: Bond Street.

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food and a setting to dress up for from this Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. You must book. www.alainducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Aubaine A wonderful combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine. co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.

Blanchette Classic bistro serving simple, classic and inventive French food. Excellent charcuterie plates, homemade terrines and cheese. ££. Daily L & D. www.blanchettesoho.co.uk. 9 D’Arblay St, W1F 8DR. T: 020-7439 8100. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Brasserie Joël This French brasserie serves classics such as tuna tartare and tournedos Rossini. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; Daily D. www.brasseriejoel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie and bar with glorious décor (p. 54). £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasserie zedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

OXO Tower Elegant, popular riverside restaurant which is great for special occasions. ££££. Brasserie L & pre-theatre menu. £££. Daily L & D. www.harvey nichols.com. Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House St, SE1 9PH. T: 020-7803 3888. E9. Station: Waterloo.

Traditional East End favourites are pie and mash, and jellied eels with parsley liquor

Skylon Glamorous dining with panoramic river views. Try the roasted monkfish tail and white beans. ££££. Daily L & D. www.skylon-restaurant. co.uk. Royal Festival Hall, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XX. T: 020-7654 7800. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence. The views are amazing. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Fish and Seafood J. Sheekey

Clos Maggiore Exquisite dining room with one of the best wine lists in London. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.clos maggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Club Gascon Michelin-starred French cuisine and an awardwinning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Mon-Sat D. www.clubgascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe The highly regarded Galvin brothers’ classic Parisian-style bistro has a dark wood dining room and wonderful food. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvin restaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Les 110 de Taillevent

Chic fish restaurant, which is popular with celebrities. Sit at the horseshoe-shaped bar and watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey.co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 020-7240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Contemporary French dining by the same team as the famous Taillevent restaurant in Paris. More than 100 varieties of wine are offered by the glass. £££. Daily L & D. www.les-110-taillevent-london.com. 16 Cavendish Square, W1G 9DD. T: 020-3141 6016. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Mr Fish

L’Escargot

Enjoy traditional British fish and chips, or try the halibut in breadcrumbs. £. Daily L & D. www.mrfishuk.com. 51 Salusbury Rd, NW6 6NJ. T: 020-7624 8181. Off map. Station: Queen’s Park.

This is one of London’s oldest French restaurants – it was established in 1927. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.lescargotrestaurant.co.uk. 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF. T: 020-7439 7474. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

afternoon tea courtesy of victoria and albert museum

Time for tea

Poppie’s

Contemporary European

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Saturday Brunch with live jazz music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING

Le Pont de la Tour

Gaylord

Memories of India

Riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes in a former tea warehouse. £££. Daily L & D. www.lepont delatour.co.uk. 36d Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 0207403 8403. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

Legendary Indian restaurant famed for its awardwinning tandoori and Mughlai cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Taste authentic flavours from north India. Specialities include fish curry. ££. Daily L & D. www.memories ofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 0207589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Gastropubs

Gymkhana

Mint Leaf

The Eagle Popular gastropub. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeaglefarringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Fox & Anchor An authentic British pub with cosy corners and a great seasonal menu. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D. www.foxandanchor.com. 115 Charterhouse Square, EC1M 6AA. T: 020-7250 1300. D9. Station: Barbican.

The Grazing Goat

Michelin-starred restaurant designed in the style of the old colonial Indian gymkhana clubs. £££. Daily L & D. www.gymkhanalondon.com. 42 Albemarle St, W1S 4JH. T: 020-3011 5900. E6. Station: Green Park.

Contemporary Indian dishes are the trademark of this stylish restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Khan’s of Kensington

Tamarind

This popular restaurant serves a great range of fish and vegetarian dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansof kensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 0207584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.

La Porte des Indes

Fresh local produce is the trademark of this delightful venue. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.the grazinggoat.co.uk. 6 New Quebec St, W1H 7RQ. T: 020-7724 7243. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

The Thomas Cubitt

Little India

Classic dining room and bar serving British produce. Try the beef sirloin Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomascubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

The Wells This bright and airy pub boasts top-quality British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead. co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Indian

This cosy establishment near the Royal Albert Hall specialises in dishes from Bengal including fish bhuna. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Masala Zone Enjoy informal dining in these vibrant good-value restaurants. Start with chaat (street snacks), then tuck into a delicious grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Michelin-starred contemporary take on Mughal and North West Frontier cuisine. £££. Mon-Fri, Sun L; daily D. www.tamarindrestaurant.com. 20 Queen St, W1J 5PR. T: 020-7629 3561. E6. Station: Green Park.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant has a Michelin star. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

International Bbar Enjoy top-quality meat at this relaxed restaurant and bar, close to Buckingham Palace. ££. Daily L & D. www.bbarlondon.com. 43 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7958 7000. F6. Station: Victoria.

The Cavendish Fish, meats and salads are prepared while you watch. ££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 020-7487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

Amaya Exotic Indian grills. The Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Baluchi at The Lalit London Elegant pan-Indian restaurant which is part of a new five-star boutique hotel. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.thelalit.com. 181 Tooley St, SW1 2JR. T: 0203765 0000. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Benares Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar creates wonderful modern Indian cuisine. Private dining is available. ££££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.benaresrestaurant.com. 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, W1J 6BS. T: 020-7629 8886. E6. Station: Green Park.

Bombay Place

Chor Bizarre This popular restaurant specialises in cuisine from north India. £££. Mon-Sat L; daily D. www.chor bizarre.com. 16 Albermarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary Expect a gourmet tour of seven Indian regions at this superior restaurant. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

A tour of India Situated within The Lalit London, the first overseas property from the award-winning Indian hotel group, Baluchi is a new pan-Indian restaurant offering exotic dishes from Kashmir, Bengal, Kerala, Goa, Rajasthan and Delhi. Take a seat in the restaurant, which is set inside the Victorian Great Hall, then choose from a wide selection of authentic fare – we highly recommend the Keralan-style lobster bisque with coconut and cognac, with bread from the ‘Naanery’ bar, followed by a salted chilli chocolate marquise and cardamom brûlée. If the weather is nice, head to the terrace where you’ll find Indian stone sculptures and dramatic topiary creations. The wine list is excellent, and you can pair your food with tea from the famous Tea Lounge at The Lalit Great Eastern Kolkata.

dining room courtesy of the lalit

The cuisine at this well-established restaurant is a cut above the rest. Start with king prawns with garlic sauce. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.bombaypalace.co.uk. 50 Connaught St, W2 2AA. T: 0207723 8855. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

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dining room courtesy of the lalit

ENJOY THE THALI AT Fifteen Jamie Oliver’s busy not-for-profit trattoria is run as a training scheme for unemployed youngsters. Daily L & D. ££. www.fifteen.net. 15 Westland Place, N1 7LP. T: 020-3375 1515. C10. Station: Old Street.

Italian

REAL INDIAN FOOD

Bella Italia Excellent for traditional dishes, such as Roma pizzas, meaty lasagne and creamy carbonara. Choose from multiple branches citywide including Bayswater, Soho and Covent Garden. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.bella italia.co.uk. 100 Baker St, W1U 6WG. T: 020-3058 3458. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Cicchetti Outstanding small plates and a buzzy atmosphere. The menu is like a tour of Italy’s many dishes, from antipasti and pizza through to meat, fish and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7240 6339. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Cucina Asellina In this outpost of New York’s Asellina, enjoy artisanal Italian dishes such as strozzapreti pasta with prawns. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.asellina.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 2445. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gigi’s Classic dishes are given a stylish twist in this Mayfair restaurant. Mains include black tagliatelle with cuttlefish and mussels. £££. Mon-Sat L& D. www.gigismayfair.com. 22 Woodstock St, W1C 2AR. T: 020-7499 8743. D6. Station: Bond Street.

BAYSWATER, 75 BISHOPS BRIDGE RD COVENT GARDEN, 48 FLORAL ST SELFRIDGES 4TH FL, 400 OXFORD ST EARLS COURT, 147 EARLS COURT ROAD

CAMDEN, 25 PARKWAY ISLINGTON, 80 UPPER ST SOHO, 9 MARSHALL ST

M ASA L A ZO N E .CO M

Mayfair Pizza Co. Bright and airy restaurant where you can watch excellent chefs at work in an open-plan kitchen with a rustic pizza oven. ££. Daily L & D. www.mayfair pizzaco.com. 4 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7629 2889. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Quattro Passi Acclaimed chef Antonio Mellino’s fine-dining venue serves dishes inspired by Italy’s south coast. Try the grilled red prawns, langoustine and fillet of wild sea bass. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.quattropassi.co.uk. 34 Dover St, W1S 4NG. T: 020-3096 1444. E6. Station: Green Park.

Rossopomodoro Dine on authentic Neapolitan pizza and pasta in this department store restaurant. £. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Located opposite Buckingham Palace Open daily for lunch, dinner and evening cocktails

Verdi Casual dining and authentic flavours of Italy. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

japanese & korean Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table. Try the Wagyu beef and prawn, sushi and sashimi. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana.co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 0207494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Private Events for up to 300 guests Call 020 7958 7000 43 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0PP www.bbarlondon.com

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Engawa Choose from three, five and eight-course tasting menus at this small but excellent sushi spot. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Inamo Covent Garden Funky Asian-fusion restaurant, serving boldly flavoured dishes. Try the spicy miso salmon and rice. ££. Daily L & D. www.inamo-restaurant.com. 11-14 Hanover Place, WC2E 9JP. T: 020-7484 0500. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Nobu

HOLLYWOOD INSPIRED DINING IN THE HEART OF LONDON

Top-quality sashimi, sushi and tempura. Bento box L £33; set lunch £29. Booking essential. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Roka Mayfair This stylish space with a centrepiece robata grill serves Japanese ’robatayaki’ cuisine (and branches). £££-££££. Daily L & D. www.rokarestaurant.com. 30 North Audley St, W1K 6ZF. T: 020-7305 5644. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

MIDDLE EASTERN, GREEK & TURKISH APPETISERS • STEAKS • RIBS FA J I TA S • B U R G E R S • F I S H PA S TA S • P I Z Z A S • A S I A N SALADS•SANDWICHES D E S S E R T S • C O C K TA I L S

Nopi Middle Eastern-inspired food. Check out the brunch menu. ££. Daily B & L; Mon-Sat D. www.nopi-restaurant.com. 21-22 Warwick St, W1B 5NE (and branches). T: 020-7494 9584. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Yasmeen Authentic dishes influenced by Lebanon and Syria. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

RIVERSIDE Bateaux London

RESTAURANT OPEN ‘TIL MIDNIGHT (11PM SUN) BAR OPEN ‘TIL 1AM (MIDNIGHT SUN)

20% OFF

FOOD/SOFT DRINKS/MERCHANDISE Not valid in conjunction with any other offer. Payment by cash or debit/credit card only. Discount applies to a la carte menu (excluding kids’ menu). Valid daily (except 5pm to 9pm Saturday) until 31/3/17. Subject to availability. 1 voucher per table maximum 8 persons. Code WHERE. Please show this advert to your server before ordering.

TO BOOK PLEASE CALL

020 7287 1000 planethollywoodlondon.com

57-60 HAYMARKET LONDON SW1Y 4QX

TUBE: PICCADILLY CIRCUS OR LEICESTER SQ

See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Nightly evening cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

London Showboat Drift down the Thames past London’s landmarks while enjoying a four-course dinner. Nightly £80 per person; booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

RS Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving modern European cuisine. Try the rib-eye steak with triple-cooked chips. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

SOUTH EAST ASIAN Chi Kitchen Enjoy exotic dishes influenced by Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean food. It opens at 7.30am. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chi kitchen.co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional Vietnamese cuisine. Try the Wagyu short rib hot and cold pho. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.houseofho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Mango Tree This elegant restaurant near Buckingham Palace serves classic Thai dishes. Try the sea bass wrapped in banana leaf, the green papaya salad with peanuts and spicy prawn curry, or opt for the five-course ‘taste’ menu. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Rosa’s Thai Café Expect modern cuisine in a relaxed setting. Try the spicy fish with mixed herbs, or the papaya salad. Daily L & D. ££. www.rosasthaicafe.com. 6 Theberton St, N1 0QX (and branches). T: 0203393 2482. Off map. Station: Angel.

Thai Pot This popular spot has stylish décor and truly fantastic food. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

SPANISH El Pirata This busy tapas bar-restaurant in the heart of Mayfair serves excellent hot and cold dishes, including cured meats and fresh seafood. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 020-7491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Iberica Victoria Traditional dishes get a modern twist on a menu created by award-winning chef Nacho Manzano. Don’t leave without trying the jamon Iberico. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.ibericarestaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant in quirky Exmouth Market. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

VEGETARIAN Amico Bio Good-value Italian eatery that uses organic ingredients from the owner’s farm in Italy. £-££. Daily L & D. www.amicobio.co.uk. 44 Cloth Fair, EC1A 7JQ. T: 020-7600 7778. D9. Station: Barbican.

Tibits Enjoy dozens of delicious dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed veggie restaurant-bar. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 020-7758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India. Enjoy delicious dishes such as cashew pakoras and Mysore masala dosa. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

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W H E R E

L O N D O N

P R O M O T I O N

best of london dining Chai Wu Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the fifth floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The fantastic menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak. Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders are taken at 8.30pm); Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm).

El Pirata

5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and, above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Harden’s), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal ). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm; Sat 6pm-11.30pm; closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ. T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315. www.elpirata.co.uk. Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south-east Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen. Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm); Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).

Mango Tree

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal. Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria

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nightlife | THE GUIDE Clockwise from this image: St Patrick’s Day celebrations; The Porterhouse; a pint of Guinness Below: Irish whiskey

Irish charmers If you’re in London on St Patrick’s Day (17 Mar) then you’re in for a treat as the city turns green with revellers eager to celebrate the patron saint of Ireland. Expect Irish dancing, traditional songs and a spectacular parade in Trafalgar Square. But celebrating all things Irish needn’t be restricted to one day of the year in London because in this city you’re never far from an authentic Irish pub, famed for friendly staff, hearty food and perfectly poured pints of Guinness. The first bar to serve ‘the black stuff’ (Guinness) outside of Ireland was The Tipperary in Fleet Street. The Grade II-listed building is London’s oldest Irish pub, built around 1605 with stones from a monastery which enabled it to survive the Great Fire of London in 1666. In addition to the iconic stout, you’ll find more than a dozen Irish whiskies to choose from. It’s small but quaint, the food is tasty and affordable – and the music isn’t too loud (66 Fleet St, EC4Y 1HT ).

Get lost inside The Porterhouse, which is a veritable maze of a pub in the heart of Covent Garden. Spanning 12 levels, it boasts everything a good Irish pub should have: live music, affordable, hearty Sunday roasts and a huge selection of Irish beers. The stout is handcrafted in Ireland and shipped over, so expect an authentic taste of the Emerald Isle. This is Irish pubbing at its most restrained – no shamrocks or novelty leprechauns here! (21-22 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7NA).

It might not look like much from the outside, but The Toucan off Soho Square is a cosy pub that manages to be traditionally Irish and quintessentially London at the same time. Head here for a well-poured pint surrounded by Guinness-themed décor, accompanied by a packet of Taytos (Irish crisps). It can get very busy, particularly on a Friday night, but the outside area is usually heated, so you can stay warm under the stars if there’s no room inside. Legend has it that rock icon Jimi Hendrix once performed in the basement (19 Carlisle St, W1D 3BY). The award for the most upmarket Irish pub must surely go to The Cow in Notting Hill, where you can order Guinness with a side of rock oysters. This used to be a popular and inexpensive combination in 19th-century Ireland; now it’s a bit more decadent. Try the beef and Guinness pie with spring greens and mash potato, and if you can resist a pint of the black nectar, there are worthwhile wines to try (89 Westbourne Park Rd, W2 5QH).

the porterhouse photo courtesy of the porterhouse; st patrick’s day celebrations, guinness and whiskey photos © Istock

A Guinness or whiskey, anyone? As the patron saint of Ireland is celebrated on St Patrick’s Day this month, Sam Rogg enjoys a drink in some of London’s most authentic Irish pubs

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Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Traditional Pubs

Bars & Clubs

The Blackfriar

68 & Boston

This Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

Sophisticated Soho venue with separate cocktail and wine bars. The ground-floor wine bar boasts many lesser-known regions, including Uruguay, and all bottles are just £20. Nightly food menu. www.68andboston.com. 5 Greek St, W1D 4DD. T: 020-7287 3713. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Cittie of Yorke The dark nooks and crannies, rafted roof and chimney-less fire in this Grade II-listed building take you back to 1430. Enjoy a pint in this traditional pub for a real taste of historic London. 22 High Holborn, WC1 6BN. T: 020-7242 7670. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Byron and Shelley as past patrons and is allegedly haunted! www.the flaskhighgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The French House No music, TV or mobile phones makes this famous Soho pub a real gem. www.frenchhousesoho.com. 49 Dean St, W1D 5BG. T: 020-7437 2477. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Rd.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Bar at Bellamy’s Cocktails and wines served in a chic setting, which is decorated with vintage ski posters. www.bellamysrestaurant.co.uk. 18/18a Bruton Place, W1J 6LY. T: 020-7491 2727. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Baranis A taste of Provence in London, this chic bar has a grand vaulted cellar full of fine French wines and pastis, plus the UK’s only indoor pétanque court. www.baranis.co.uk. 115 Chancery Lane, WC2 1PP. T: 020-7242 8373. D9. Station: Chancery Lane.

Booking Office Bar

BYOC At ‘Bring Your Own Cocktail’ pay £25, bring a spirit of your choice and the mixologist will create a drink. You’re advised to book in advance. www.byoc.co.uk. 9-11 Basement, Camden High St, NW1 7JE. T: 0203441 2424. Off map. Station: Mornington Crescent.

Cartizze Bar Timeless luxury Bellini and cocktail destination with art deco surroundings and excellent service. www.cartizzebar.com. 4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. E6. Station: Bond Street.

City Social Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. The adjoining restaurant is one of the most talked-about in town, and the bar is also impressive, with its amazing art deco interior and Prohibition-inspired cocktail list. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

C.O.L.D Bar (The City of London Distillery)

The ground floor of the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel has a 29m-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

A wonderful well-stocked, retro-styled cocktail bar that overlooks the striking copper stills of the distillery. Tastings, classes and tours – including an Evolution of Gin tour – are available. www.cityof londondistillery.com. 22-24 Bride Lane, EC4Y 8DT. T: 020-7936 3446. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Brooklyn Bowl

Dirty Martini

This fun music venue at The O2 boasts a 12-lane bowling alley, three bars and a restaurant serving US favourites. www.brooklynbowl.com. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-7412 8778. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

With deluxe banquettes and a quirky layout, this cocktail bar is a hit with its endless list of martinis. Mon-Sat 4pm-late. Multiple branches. www.dirty martini.uk.com. 10c Hanover Square, W1S 1JH. T: 020-7632 2087. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Top Pick

The Guinea Site of an inn since 1423, this was where wealthy Mayfair’s stable hands and servants used to drink. www.theguinea.co.uk. 30 Bruton Place, W1J 6NL. T: 020-7409 1728. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Magpie & Stump This pub, opposite the Old Bailey, dates back to the 1500s, and once doubled up as a public viewing spot for hangings at Newgate Prison. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Punchbowl This popular Mayfair-based pub-cum-restaurant was once owned by film director Guy Ritchie. Enjoy a variety of ales in the unique, classy surroundings. www.punchbowllondon.com. 41 Farm St, W1J 5RP. T: 0207-493 6841. E6. Station: Green Park.

The Spaniards Inn six storeys courtesy of six storeys

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Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including highwayman Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens, at this historic pub, which is one of the oldest in London. www.thespaniardshampstead. co.uk. Spaniards Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese This landmark pub has wood-panelled walls and vaults that are thought to date back to a 13th-century Carmelite monastery which once stood here. 145 Fleet St, EC4A 2BU. T: 020-7353 6170. D9. Station: Blackfriars.

Tall tales You could be forgiven for feeling that you’d slipped back into the age of the Prohibition, such is the air of bohemian decadence in this impressive Soho townhouse. Six Storeys is a newly opened bar with six levels – rows of bell jars adorn the rooms, and there are creative cocktail infusions dreamt up by the resident mixologists. Try their unique take on an Old Fashioned, containing Jamaican rum infused with butter and peanuts, or the Steve Strange Brew with plum-infused gin, rosehip and their own vermouth. 11 Soho Square, W1D 3QE. T: 020-3504 0653. www.sixstoreys.com. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road www.wheretraveler.com 65

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NIGHTLIFE The Dolls House

The Met Bar

This stylish cocktail bar and private members’ club offers mixed drinks in The Parlour on the ground floor and is tastefully furnished. The drinks menu is varied and there is also a first-rate food menu. www.thedeaddollsclub.com. 181 Upper St, N1 1RQ. T: 020-7288 1470. D7. Station: Highbury & Islington.

With a sauve Mayfair setting, it’s a fresh, stylish look for this famous bar in the Metropolitan Hotel. Extensive wine list, vintage Champagne by the glass and cocktails, plus a British food menu. www.met bar.co.uk. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 1000. Off map. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Draft House

Mews of Mayfair

Fabulous draft beers come from around the world at this friendly bar. Measures come in one-third pint glasses (and larger), perfect for discovering your favourite. www.drafthouse.co.uk. 206-208 Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP T: 020-7378 9995. E11. Station: London Bridge/Tower Hill.

Deep leather sofas and an 18th-century chandelier set the tone for exquisite wines, fresh fruit cocktails and light dishes. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Drakes Tabanco

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails at this basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

A Spanish-style bar that serves rare sherries which have been aged in ancient oak barrels. There are also craft beers, a range of natural wines and tapas. www.drakestabanco.com. 3 Windmill St, W1T 2HY. T: 020-7637 9388. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

The Drift All aboard this chic, relaxing oasis in the heart of the City. Its industrial-style décor has oceaninspired touches, while the bar serves punch bowls and cocktails. There are sharing platters and nibbles to ward off hunger pangs. www.thedrift bar.co.uk. Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 0845-468 0103. D10. Station: Barbican.

Freedom This gay-friendly venue attracts a trendy crowd to its stylish cocktail bar and nightclub. www.freedom barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 0207734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is the highest Champagne bar in London and the ideal place for sunset cocktails and late-night drinks. The bar also has an infinity pool. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Good Godfreys Old-style glamour and classic cocktails are served with a hint of history at this suave establishment. Try signature cocktails including the Astor Hip Flask, named after the New York Wardorf Astoria’s owner. www.waldorfhilton.co.uk. The Waldorf Hilton, Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Gordon’s Wine Bar

©THINKSTOCK

London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles from around the world since 1890 in its stone-walled basement. Hugely popular, so a seat is a real bonus. Well-priced pub food, including cheese plates. www.gordonswine bar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 020-7930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment/Charing Cross.

where

Old Bengal Bar This place is converted from a former warehouse located in a quiet back street, with original brick walls and leather sofas. Enjoy classic cocktails. www.oldbengalbar.com. 16a New St, EC2M 4TR. T: 020-3503 0780. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Opium Cocktail Bar This stylish upstairs bar tucked away in Chinatown serves innovative Chinese-inspired cocktails. www.opiumchinatown.com. 15 Gerrard St, W1D 6JE. T: 020-7734 7276. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Oriole Spacious cocktail bar hidden beneath Smithfield Market, with live swing, jazz and blues music most nights. Beautiful interiors and incredible drinks inspired by the Old World, New World and the Orient. www.oriolebar.com. Smithfield Markets, East Poultry Avenue, EC1A 9LH. T: 0203457 8099. D9. Station: Farringdon.

Primo Bar Enjoy free live music every night. Try the Asianinspired concoctions. www.primobar.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7282. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Reverend J W Simpson This cocktail bar is a real slice of ‘shabby chic’ – and is the genuine ex-abode of the good Reverend, proved by the blue plaque outside. Scruffy sofas and a laid-back vibe are its hallmark. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar Part of the luxury hotel Rosewood London, this bar is named after Gerald Scarfe, the cartoonist famous for his satirical illustrations. Enjoy Indian-inspired snacks. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. D8. Station: Holborn.

Hixter Bankside

Searcys Champagne Bar

Restaurateur Mark Hix’s bar shows his trademark interest in modern art – see an installation by Helen Chadwick that replicates a London Tube carriage. www.hixrestaurants.co.uk. 16 Great Guildford St, SE1 0HS. T: 020-7921 9508. E9. Station: Southwark.

Europe’s longest Champagne bar, in the upstairs forecourt of the glorious train station, serves seafood platters. www.searcyschampagnebars. co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Mahiki

Recommended by youR concieRge

The Nightjar

This popular tiki haunt is a real draw for celebs in the entertainment world – and occasionally Prince Harry and pals. The Polynesian-themed club offers classic and fresh fruit cocktails and special creations to share, including Treasure Chest and Honolulu Honey. www.mahiki.com. 1 Dover St, W1S 4LD. T: 020-7493 9529. E7. Station: Green Park.

Trader Vic’s Tiki-style basement bar and restaurant, which is more than 50 years old. The menu has rum-laced cocktails − try the Mai Tai cocktail in this exotic setting. www.tradervicslondon.com. London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4113. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

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NIGHTLIFE

Casinos Aspers Casino Endless gaming offerings and great views of the Olympic Stadium from the Sky Bar at this 24-hour venue. www.aspersstratford.co.uk. Westfield Stratford City, Montifichet Rd, Olympic Park, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8536 5630. Off map. Station: Stratford.

The Casino at the Empire There is a dedicated poker room and the latest table and electronic games at this spectacular venue, housing a contemporary Asian restaurant and several bars. www.thecasinolsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 020-3733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The 100 Club

Stringfellows Gentleman’s Club

Famous live music venue with rock and blues bands. www.the100club.co.uk. 100 Oxford St, W1D 1LL. T: 020-7636 0933. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Enjoy entertainment by more than 80 ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables at Peter Stringfellow’s Gentlemen’s Club and restaurant. Free entry when dining. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Ronnie Scott’s The world-famous jazz venue has hosted Prince, Ella Fitzgerald and Miles Davis. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

SERVICES

606 Club

Icebreaker

A relaxed’ jazz cellar and restaurant, specialising in British-based artists, playing blues, r’n’b and soul. www.606club.co.uk. 90 Lots Rd, SW10 0QD. T: 0207352 5953. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Download this free app that enables you to meet interesting people in exclusive venues. There is a small charge to see profiles and message other users. www.icebreakerapp.info.

Grosvenor Gloucester Casino A vibrant and friendly casino offering a wide choice of gaming facilities, plus a late-night bar and relaxed restaurant. Dress code is smart/ casual and membership is free. Open 24 hours. www.grosvenorcasinos.com. 4-18 Harrington Gardens, SW7 4LJ. T: 020-7373 7134. G4. Station: Gloucester Rd.

Hippodrome Casino This landmark venue has fabulous gaming on three floors, plus the 150-seat Heliot Steak House. There is The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. Enjoy the poker lounge, sports bar, informal dining and elegant restaurant. www.thesportsman casino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 0203051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Live Entertainment The Blues Kitchen This busy music venue stages blues, soul and jazz music most nights, plus a DJ at weekends. There are more than 80 varieties of bourbon and rye, plus Cajun comfort food on offer. www.theblueskitchen.com. 111 Camden High St, NW1 7JN. T: 020-7387 5277. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The Comedy Store One of the country’s best and most famous venues for stand-up and improvised comedy. More than 3,500 people pass through its doors every week. The club launched the careers of many famous comedians, including Rik Mayall, Ben Elton, Adrian Edmondson and Jo Brand. www.thecomedystore. co.uk. 1a Oxendon St, SW1Y 4EE. T: 0844-847 1728. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Forge This bijou acoustic venue behind the Foundry restaurant enjoys a variety of live music most nights, ranging from classical and folk to traditional Indian and jazz. www.forgevenue.org. 3-7 Delancey St, NW1 7NL. T: 020-7383 7808. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

London Cabaret Club Cabaret gets a modern twist with the show ‘Best of British Pop’, which has hits from the 1960s to the present day. Dinner and VIP tickets available. A DJ plays until 3am. www.thelondoncabaretclub.com. Victoria House, Bloomsbury Square, WC1B 4DA. T: 020-7242 0002. D8. Station: Holborn. www.wheretraveler.com 67

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SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from main: Matthew Curtis salon; haircut in the salon; Rosewood hotel Below: Aer Blowdry Bar

A cut above the rest In 1964 Vidal Sassoon picked up a pair of scissors and cut a sharp, never-before-seen style for fashion designer Mary Quant: the bob. The hairstyle, which became the defining look of the Swinging Sixties, was born right here in London. As the capital’s salons have been creating stylish looks, from Victoria Beckham’s updated bob, nicknamed the pob, to the Duchess of Cambridge’s curls, you know you are in a safe pair of hands. The Rosewood London, on High Holborn, is all about glamour. When the hotel opened, it hosted Harvey Weinstein, Brad Pitt and Amy Adams for a post-award show party, while Scarfes Bar – named after political cartoonist Gerald Scarfe, whose work is on the walls – is often visited by the man himself and his wife, Jane Asher. So it comes as no surprise to hear that the hotel has opened the Matthew Curtis hair salon, which is inspired by the charm of the Orient-Express trains. Matthew Curtis says: ‘The new boutique hair salon at Rosewood London is about unifying

hair with the spa experience. From our standout salon design and experienced stylists with a wealth of catwalk, editorial and technical abilities to the unique in-room styling concept, clients will receive the ultimate hair treatment.’ Services include cutting, colouring and blow-drying. For the ultimate privacy, and for those in a rush, you can also have a treatment in your room. A hairstylist will visit you with a portable station, which means you can be groomed while you are in your pyjamas (252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN).

This month, The Hair Spa launches in South Kensington’s Aer Blowdry Bar. The salon, which specialises in blow-dries, has a new spa treating damaged locks. ‘The Hair Spa treatment menu eradicates the damage that can be caused by the weather, colouring and over-styling, so they can continue to blow-dry their hair without concern,’ says Anushka Lakhani, the founder. The Hair Spa’s menu has a range of treatments: Masque Architect rebuilds and strengthens brittle hair fibres so locks are shiny and smooth, while the Masque Therapy helps thick hair that has been over-coloured and styled to regain elasticity. Each treatment includes a blow-dry, so you can leave with anything from bouncy curls to super-sleek tresses (£50 for the treatment; 172 Old Brompton Rd, SW5 0BA ). Proving that London is a place where you should expect the unexpected, the new DKUK in up-and-coming Peckham has replaced its mirrors with artworks. Instead of looking at yourself, you can gaze at a work of art instead (20 Holdrons Arcade, 135a Rye Lane, SE15 4ST ).

matthew curtis salon images © Karen Hatch Photography; rosewood london exterior images © Durston Saylor; aer blowdry bar © Paul Craig

Stylish new hair salons are springing up across the capital. Whether you want a blow-dry, colour, cut or a luxurious treatment, Kohinoor Sahota finds there’s somewhere for any type of hair

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AVENA MASSAGE

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on map (p. 72-73)

Spas Aveda Institute This three-storey salon offers cuts, colour, blow-dries and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. The Express Beauty Bar has treatments lasting 15 and 30 minutes. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa Loved by celebrities, treatments have a holistic approach to wellbeing, and are made with botanical products. There is also a rooftop pool and secret garden. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa This exclusive members’ only spa offers day passes for £25. Swim in a 56ft pool, use the fitness equipment or visit the Figaro Hair Salon. There are treatment rooms for disabled customers. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Elemis Day Spa This spa specialises in facials that tackle ageing, pigmentation and blemishes. In The Penthouse, a private suite, you can share the experience with a guest while sipping Champagne. The Speed Spa offers treatments in 30 minutes. www.elemis.com/ dayspa. 2 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jurlique Founded by Dr Jürgen Klein, a biochemist, and his wife Ulrike, a botanist, this spa uses their natural skin care range. Treatments include an anti-stress facial, which eases tension to your face, neck and shoulders. www.jurlique.co.uk. 489 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. T: 0800-040 7685. D8. Station: Bond St. This spa has an Asian touch. Décor includes a bamboo forest, Modrian paintings and Japanese Shoji screens. Try the warm bamboo massage – it uses bamboo stalks on your body. www.mandara spa.com. Park Plaza, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Mandarin Oriental A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. Facilities include a 55ft pool and gym. Book a session with trainer Ruben Tabares – sessions can be held in Hyde Park. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 0207235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

One Aldwych This spa offers a range of treatments including massages, manicures and waxing, and brands used are Natura Bissé and Oskia. The health club is excellent, while the pool is chlorine-free and has underwater music. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden. This men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional shave to sports massage. If you want to master a wet shave, you can book a Principles of Shaving lesson. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage.

An oasis of calm in the West End that boasts a 24-hour gym and luxury treatments including a gold age-defying facial and carat diamond face and body rituals. There are also treatments for two. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury. Signature massages include the Moroccan Majorelle and Arabian Ceremony. Treatments can be combined with a hammam. There is also a menu for hen parties. www.dolphinsquare.co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Recently voted the best day spa in London by Condé Nast, this spa’s menu includes facials, massages and options for men. Anti-ageing treatments include anti-wrinkle injections and skin peels. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods This is one of the few places that offers paraffin wax baths. Special services include extensions, weaves, wig creation and cutting in the Wig Boudoir. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Late appointments available

Ushvani This plush venue was voted the best day spa by Tatler in 2012. The philosophy is based on ancient Asian culture and takes a holistic approach to pampering. Treatments include a Malay massage and Balinese massage, which incorporate herbs and spices. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

De-stress, re-energising

MASSAGE

By qualified female masseuse.

DISCREET QUALITY SERVICE, OPEN LATE

Salons

Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or home. Alternatively, we welcome customers at our Mayfair Studio.

Gentlemen’s Tonic This is a stylish men-only grooming establishment with barbershop, body and hair treatments and a full range of products. www.gentlemenstonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 020-7297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Geo F Trumper This traditional barbershop in Mayfair offers wet shaves, manicures and hair cuts for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Tel: 07827 301 930

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will create it in 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

InspIrIng London’s VIsItors

Windle & Moodie This award-winning hair salon specialises in upfront catwalk looks. The 20-minute Speed Styling service includes updos and braids. www.windleand moodie.com. 41-45 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

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Jo Hansford This hair-colour salon, which is home to top stylists, is renowned for its colour correction work. The salon also has an in-house chef. www.jo hansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

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THE OFFICIAL MONTHLY GUIDE • SEPTEMBER 2016

PLANNER

WEST END WONDERS

LONDON CELEBRATING 25 YEARS EXCLUSIVE PRESTIGE BEAUTY SUPPLEMENT INSIDE

Fall under the spell of London’s longest-running shows, including Wicked as it celebrates 10 years

PLUS

LITERARY LOCATIONS FASHION WEEK RIVER FESTIVALS

Go to a galaxy far, far away in the new Star Wars exhibition

BASK IN THE LAZY DAYS OF SUMMER

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ART

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Hot chocolate, comfort food and pubs with fireplaces

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2016-2017

THE OFFICIAL LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE

White local guides worldwide

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■ SIMON CALDER ON THE SEASON ■ ■ ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES ■ ■ ART & MISSONI ■

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DAVID BOWIE

A celebration of the singer’s golden years in the capital

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ENTERTAINMENT

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SIGHTS • ARTS • SHOPPING • EATING • ENTERTAINMENT • MAPS

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The Refinery

Rocco Forte at Brown’s Hotel

IN LONDON 2016 VOLUM VOLUME THIRTEEN ISSUE THREE ■ SPIRITED ■ SOPHISTICATED ■ SMART

Mandara Spa

by qualiﬁed female masseuse.

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

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TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See www.tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. An Oyster card also gives you a 25 per cent discount on London’s cable car, the Emirates Air Line, and a 10 per cent discount on single journeys on most MBNA Thames Clippers river buses. For more info, visit www.visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website. www.tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube)

AT YOUR SERVICE Where London is used by concierges and their teams in 275 top hotels William Thomson, head concierge at Macdonald Randolph Hotel, Oxford, shares his tips What are your guests’ most popular requests in Oxford? A visit to Christ Church college – it was in the Harry Potter films as Hogwarts’ Dining Hall. It has produced 13 British Prime Ministers. Sit in the cathedral for a choir recital from 6pm. Any strange requests? I arranged for a celebrity to go incognito to a local pub so he could watch an American football game on TV without being recognised! Tell us about your hotel... The Randolph is Oxford’s most iconic building and known as the ‘Grand Old Lady’ of Oxford. It is the city’s only five-star hotel – US Presidents Bill Clinton and Jimmy Carter stayed here.

market is definitely my favourite market – it’s off the beaten track in east London. What do you recommend for visitors with children? London Zoo is a good way to keep children entertained. Get a fast-track ticket through your concierge, so you can avoid the queues. What should you do if you have only a day in London? Start by seeing Changing the Guard, then stroll along the Thames to the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and Westminster Abbey, followed by a visit to the Churchill War Rooms. Have dinner at The Ivy and see a West End show.

Share a romantic tip... Buy a hamper from Harrods and watch the world go by in Kyoto Garden, Holland Park.

What do you recommend for repeat visitors? Columbia Road flower

Clockwise from top left: Randolph Hotel; flower market; fish and chips; Changing the Guard Inset: William Thomson

A quintessential English experience we must try... Fish and chips – try them for £5.50 at The Golden Chippy, a no-frills café in Greenwich.

www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs on Fri-Sat on the Victoria, Jubilee, Central, Northern (via Embankment) and Piccadilly line. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard or a UK-issued contactless payment card. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground www.tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground Map opposite). Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight; Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half minutes to 10 minutes. Mon-Sat 5.30am12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit www.nationalrail. co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Go to www.eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

COLUMBIA ROAD FLOWER MARKET; FISH AND CHIPS AND CHANGING THE GUARD © ISTOCK; RANDOLPH HOTEL AND WILLIAM THOMSON COURTESY OF MACDONALD RANDOLPH HOTEL, OXFORD

GETTING AROUND

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ESSENTIALS

Accessible London

Emirates Air Line cable car

Mailbox

Get information for deaf and disabled travellers, including step-free journeys on the Tube, bus and river service at www.visitlondon.com/ access and www.openbritain.net.

London’s only cable car runs across the River Thames between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). You can board from either the North Greenwich or Royal Victoria sides of the river (return flights are available). You can buy a combined ticket with MBNA Thames Clippers and London Transport Museum. www.tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Worldwide parcel delivery, courier and postal services. There are 1,600 stores worldwide and more than 150 stores in the UK and Ireland. Mailbox are also trained certified packers. T: 01608-649230. www.mbe.co.uk/london.

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. For more information, visit www.tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. www.hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. www.kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. www.enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. www.cclondon.com.

River services

Columbia Road Flower market; fish and chips and changing the guard © istock; randolph hotel and william thomson courtesy of macdonald randolph hoteL, oxford

Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.

www.tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. www.thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on adult single fare with an Oyster, Visitor Oyster or contactless card. River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. www.tfl.gov.uk/ legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bikes for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. From £2 for 30 minutes; the first 30 minutes are free. There’s no need to book, but you need a debit or credit card to hire a bike. Visit www.tfl.gov.uk/ santandercycles or call T: 0343-222 6666.

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, a central hub which offers travel to destinations around the UK and some parts of Europe. SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. www.tfl. gov.uk/coaches Victoria. Map D4.

DELIVERY AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. www.portr.com.

24-hour Tube lines Run Fridays & Saturdays on the following lines. More are due to open soon. • Jubilee Line: Across the entire line. • Victoria Line: Across the entire line. • Northern Line: Between Morden and Camden Town and between Camden Town to High Barnet/Edgware. Night Tube will not stop at Charing Cross until July. • Piccadilly Line: Between Cockfosters and Heathrow Terminal 5. • Central Line: Between White City and Leytonstone; between Ealing Broadway and White City; and between Leytonstone and Loughton/Hainault. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay Is Just a Touch Away Put the power of Where® in the palm of your hand. Our Where Traveler City Guide app gives you instant access to thousands of hand-picked recommendations for things to do and places to go in destinations all over the world. Download it today for iPhone and Android.

Where to Eat, Shop, Play and Stay

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Where NOW | DEBBIE MOORE, obe

DEBBIE MOORE, OBE founder of pineapple dance studios Born in Manchester, Moore started her career as a model. In 1979 she created Pineapple Dance Studios in Covent Garden. She is a speaker at Seven Dials’ International Women’s Day event on 8 March in Radisson Blu Edwardian Mercer Street Hotel What green spaces do you like? When I first came to London, I lived near Hampstead Heath. The one most familiar to me, however, is Hyde Park – it’s central and has the Serpentine lake and Serpentine Gallery. What is your favourite building? My favourite building is Buckingham Palace. While you’re there, visit the shop – you can buy slippers that say ‘Buckingham Palace’. I visited it when I was awarded an OBE by the Queen. She oozes prettiness and kindness. Where holds a special memory for you? The London Stock Exchange – in 1982 I was the first woman to float her company. I wanted money to open a studio in New York. Where do you like to go shopping? Oxford Street is fabulous. Debenhams stocks our Pineapple childrenswear, and Selfridges has the best designer floor. How do you prefer to travel around? I’d hail a black cab. Let’s all applaud the cab drivers and save them – they are vital! They are great for tourists. I love chatting to them and hearing their views on current affairs. What places inspire you? I love the Royal Opera House. When I opened Pineapple Studios, I used to go there nearly every night and watch ballets from the wings. The stress of starting my business – the builders and bank managers – would all disappear.

What are your favourite galleries? The National Portrait Gallery, which is close to Trafalgar Square. After working as a model, I’m interested in photography. Paul Wolfgang Webster had to photograph people for his Made in the North series; he chose a picture of me for the gallery’s permanent collection. Where do you like to have lunch? If I’m popping out, I’ll have something nutritious at the Wild Food Café in Neal’s Yard. If I’m having a business lunch, I go to The Ivy. When it opened, I was one of the first people in as they’re our neighbours. One day it was full – restaurant critic Fay Maschler had reviewed it – but [owners] Corbin and King told me: ‘You’ll always get a table in our restaurant!’ Would you do anything extravagant? I have been there and done that. My life is one continuous extravagance – Zandra Rhodes has just invited me to her fashion show! Where would you stop for tea? It’s divine to have tea at The Ritz. In Covent Garden there are so many fantastic coffee shops: Monmouth Coffee is wonderful and Hotel Chocolat does a good hot chocolate. What is your perfect entertainment? There are so many great shows on at the moment, such as The Lion King and Matilda. I love going to rock concerts at the Royal Albert Hall. I have seen Bob Dylan and Eric Clapton.

Where do you love to dine? At the wine bar and restaurant, Dalla Terra, in Covent Garden. I love Chinatown, too. What makes London stand out? There’s nothing like landing at Heathrow and thinking ‘I’m home’. Even if you don’t go to a museum, you can wander around and be like a sponge. Why is International Women’s Day important to you? I’m not a stereotypical businesswoman. I had only been open a year and I was invited to Downing Street. I talked to Margaret Thatcher about women’s groups and young people. Why should our readers visit Pineapple? You can fly in from Tokyo, take the Piccadilly line to Covent Garden, walk through the door and say: ‘I want to do a class now!’ There’ll be up to 12 classes on. We do different styles and levels. A cabbie told me that he was 65 years old, fancied a tap class and came! We’ve had Selena Gomez, Justin Bieber and Madonna’s kids, but also the girl in the coffee shop. Where would you spend the night? The Covent Garden Hotel – it has a lovely bar. Pineapple Dance Studios, Langley St, WC2H 9JA. www.pineapple.uk.com. T: 020-7836 4004 Clockwise from top left: Covent Garden Piazza; Debbie Moore, OBE; Hyde Park; The Ritz; Debbie being awarded an OBE by the Queen

covent garden piazza © istock; debbie moore courtesy of pineapple dance studios; hyde park © Phil Russell; the ritz © Antonio Busiello; debbie moore with the queen courtesy of debbie moore

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