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Contents

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October

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Woman in a Hat (Olga) by Pablo Picasso, 1935. Credit: Centre Pompidou, Paris. Musée National d’Art Moderne. Copyright: Succession Picasso/ DACS London, 2016. Photo: Centre Pompidou, MNAM-CCI, Dist. RMNGrand Palais/Rights reserved

The Guide

22 SIGHTSEEING Get spooked out at London’s scariest sights – be brave and go on cemetery tours, dungeon adventures and ghost hunts. 32 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES Paul Nash’s iconic war paintings come to Tate Britain. 38 ENTERTAINMENT Enjoy a starry night! Glenda Jackson, Celia Imrie and Jane Horrocks are just some of the celebrities starring in Shakespeare plays. 48 SHOPPING Head to Oxford Street for inventor James Dyson’s first store. Test products, from vacuums to hairdryers, and book yourself in for a complimentary blow dry.

Best of the month 14 A PORTRAIT OF THE ARTIST

6 WHERE NOW

The National Portrait Gallery celebrates the modernist master, Pablo Picasso.

This month’s biggest events include the immersive dining experience Dinner at the Twits, NFL on Regent Street and Diwali in Trafalgar Square.

20 FROM LONDON WITH LOVE Frieze, Moniker and PAD – take your pick of pieces from this month’s art fairs.

10 THE REAL GAME OF THRONES As the BFI Film Festival begins, we celebrate royal residences that have been used for movie locations.

74 MY LONDON 22

Dancing superstar Carlos Acosta shares his favourite spots in the city.

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THE WHERE PASS The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London hassle-free. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system and gain discounted entry into top attractions. www.wherepasslondon.com

54 DINING Enjoy your meal with a view that is as pretty as a picture at the Tate Modern’s wonderful new restaurant. 64 NIGHTLIFE Forget about going to Germany for Oktoberfest – we raise a glass to the city’s best breweries. 68 SPAS & SALONS As the nights draw in, we look at the rise in SAD treatments that recreate natural sunlight in order to stimulate your senses. 70 ESSENTIALS Theo Dubroy, head concierge at The Arch London, shares his tips on how to make the most of your visit. 72 MAPS A map of central London. w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 3

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WELCOME

Editor’s Letter

Paint the town red London is used to staging blockbuster exhibitions, but few are as momentous as Picasso Portraits at the National Portrait Gallery. We celebrate the innovative artist and give you a sneak peek of some of the images you will be able to see on display (p. 14). As London rolls out the red carpet for the BFI London Film Festival, we look at how the city has become a star in its own right. There has been a rise in the use of period locations, from the Tower of London to Windsor Castle, with the capital’s time-warp streets perfect for historical dramas as well as blockbusters. Read about how the capital has become the new Tinseltown (p. 10). London is home to innovators: this month we see directors shaking up Shakespeare with all-female shows, including Glenda Jackson in King Lear (p. 38), and James Dyson, creator of the bagless vacuum, launching his first UK shop on Oxford Street (p. 48). We always strive to bring you big-name interviews; this month we speak to dance superstar Carlos Acosta, who shares his top spots in London (p. 74). Also, over summer, Dame Barbara Windsor joined Team London Ambassadors – friendly faces on hand to answer questions from tourists – who welcomed visitors to the capital with our American Express GLA maps. Don’t forget to follow us on social media, too – we run regular giveaways!

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Above: Dame Barbara Windsor and the Team London Ambassadors w w w.where t r ave l e r. c o m 5

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NOW Raise a glass to London! Enjoy one of the city’s top events, including London Cocktail Week, Dinner at the Twits and the BFI London Film Festival

LONDON COCKTAIL WEEK MONDAY 3-SUNDAY 9 OCTOBER

Welcome to the biggest cocktail celebration in Europe, as 250 of the city’s best bars and restaurants throw open their doors to offer masterclasses, supper clubs and specially created concoctions for £5. The most famous part of the festival are the self-guided cocktail tours. To redeem the offers, buy a £10 wristband online or at any of the festival hubs. www.drinkup.london/cocktailweek

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LONDON COCKTAIL WEEK © DRINKUP.LONDON; LONDON LITERATURE FESTIVAL © ENIGMA/ALAMY; DIWALI © KOIS MIAH; DINNER AT THE TWITS © ADDIE CHINN; NFL ON REGENT STREET © DAVE SHOPLAND NFL UK

LONDON LITERATURE FESTIVAL WEDNESDAY 5-SUNDAY 16 OCTOBER

The London Literature Festival, which celebrates all forms of literature from poetry to comics, is returning to the Southbank Centre. Now in its 10th year, this year’s theme is Living in Future Times. Highlights include a reading of HG Wells’ The Time Machine (5 Oct; above) and Margaret Atwood discussing her latest novel Hag-Seed (6 Oct). www.southbankcentre.co.uk

DIWALI SUNDAY 16 OCTOBER

Join in the Diwali celebrations, which see Trafalgar Square transformed with colourful saris, drumming and classical dance. The festival of light, which marks the Hindu New Year, honours the goddess of wealth and prosperity. Hosted by Mayor of London Sadiq Khan, the festival marks a new beginning and is a time for reflection – and partying! www.diwaliinlondon.com

DINNER AT THE TWITS ALL OCTOBER

You are invited to ‘the worst dinner party in the world’, according to Dinner at the Twits – a theatrical dining experience at The Vaults in Waterloo. What better way to celebrate 100 years since the birth of Roald Dahl than with this gloriously gruesome gastronomic experience? www.twitsdinner.com

NFL ON REGENT STREET SATURDAY 1 OCTOBER

Stars and stripes come out during NFL on Regent Street (1 Oct), a family fun day from noon-6pm, which celebrates the kick-off of the 2016 season. Meet the stars from the Jaguars and Colts, plus enjoy cheerleading and Q&As with NFL legends. Matches are played at Wembley and Twickenham Stadiums. www.regentstreetonline.com www.wheretraveler.com 7

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ROYAL PARKS HALF MARATHON sunday 9 october

Around 16,000 runners will take part in the Royal Parks Half Marathon on a unique route through four central London parks: Hyde Park, Kensington Gardens, St James’s Park and Green Park. The 13.1-mile course starts and finishes in Hyde Park, and takes in iconic sights such as Buckingham Palace, Horse Guards Parade and the Royal Albert Hall. You can read our deputy editor’s experience of it at www.wheretraveler.com. www.royalparkshalf.com

london restaurant festival all October

Discover why the city is the dining capital of the world at the London Restaurant Festival. Attend chefhosted lunches, take part in restaurant-hopping tours and feast on special tasting menus. Look out for Festival Menus in more than 200 restaurants across the city, where meals are offered for as little as £10. www.londonrestaurantfestival.com

WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE YEAR from friday 21 OCTOBER

Now in its 52nd year, the Wildlife Photographer of the Year at the Natural History Museum is better than ever. The competition features a range of images – look out for a mother bear about to strike a bird (above), as captured by Mikhail Shatenev in the 15- to 17-year-old category. www.nhm.ac.uk 8 W H E R E Lo n d o n I O C TO B E R 2016

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Hot Dates

OCTOBER

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

The exhibition Punks opens today at the Museum of London (p. 34) It’s your last chance to go inside the gilded gates of Buckingham Palace (p. 24)

Out of Asia 2, celebrating dancers from the East, begins at Sadler’s Wells (p. 44) The Merchant of Venice, with Jonathan Pryce, starts a run at the Globe (p. 43) Lights, camera, action! The 60th BFI London Film Festival begins (p. 47) One Night in Miami..., which tells the story of Muhammad Ali, opens tonight (p. 43)

Feminist Avant-Garde of the 1970s is on at The Photographers’ Gallery (p. 37) Game Plan: Board Games Rediscovered is at the V&A Museum of Childhood (p. 35) Handmade at Kew presents arts and crafts from more than 200 designers (p. 18) Louis Theroux discusses his documentary on Scientology at the Royal Festival Hall Richard Dawkins talks about the selfish gene at the Royal Festival Hall today The Science Museum’s new gallery, Wonderlab, opens today (p. 35) Love bad taste? The Barbican’s The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined exhibition begins (p. 33) Photomonth, a festival of photography, is on at The Old Truman Brewery It’s the 15th anniversary of Harry Potter at the Warner Bros Studio Tour London (p. 29) The indoor festival Hackney Wonderland brings together indie music stars Children will love The Big Draw festival, taking place in museums across London Visit Fulham Palace, which was once the retreat of the Bishops of London (p. 26) Calling all bookworms! The Bloomsbury Festival begins today (p. 24) A display of Rodin’s sculptures opens at The Courtauld Gallery today (p. 36) Learn about sailors at Trafalgar Day at the National Maritime Museum (p. 35) Be spooked out by Halloween-themed activities at ZSL London Zoo (p. 27)

Objects in Focus at The Shard looks at items found by the River Thames (p. 29) Half Term Horrors for children begins at Eltham Palace and Gardens (p. 26) Glenda Jackson starts her run as King Lear at The Old Vic (p. 43) It’s your last opportunity to see Don Giovanni at the London Coliseum (p. 44) Make your own perfume at a special class at the Chelsea Physic Garden (p. 26) The newly opened David Bowie musical Lazarus is on at King’s Cross Theatre (p. 40)

Champagne Life with all-female artists ends at the Saatchi Gallery (p. 37) It’s the last day to see Heroes and Villains at The Cartoon Museum (p. 33) Go and see Bring Me the Horizon perform at the iconic O2 arena in Greenwich

royal parks half marathon © rb create 2015; london restaurant festival © www.alexmaguirephotography.com; wildlife photographer of the year © Mikhail Shatenev

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BRITAIN’S REAL

GAME OF THRONES From palaces to castles, these are the movie locations fit for a queen, says Dominic Wells

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Clockwise from main image: Buckingham Palace; The Royals TV series; Hampton Court Palace

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FILM LOCATIONS | Where now

BFI FILM FESTIVAL The BFI London Film Festival (5-16 Oct) is now in its 60th year and is packed with documentaries, short films, blockbusters and world cinema, as well as workshops, talks and Q&As. The festival kicks off with the European premiere of Amma Asante’s A United Kingdom. It’s the true story of Londoner Ruth Williams, who in 1947 married Seretse Khama, the king of what is now Botswana, against the wishes of their families and governments. The film stars Rosamund Pike and David Oyelowo, who will appear on the red carpet at Odeon Leicester Square (5 Oct). Clare Stewart, festival director, says: ‘We are proud to open the festival with a film of such contemporary relevance, one that celebrates the triumph of love and intelligence over intolerance and oppression.’ Other highlights also include the premiere of Queen of Katwe (9 Oct) at Odeon Leicester Square. www.bfi.org.uk

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LONDON’S TOP ROYAL ATTRACTIONS

know I have the body of a weak and feeble woman, but I have the heart and stomach of a king, and a king of England, too.’ Which actress would not give their ring finger for the Buckingham Palace chance to deliver this speech? Elizabeth I The office and official residence of the has been played by dozens of screen greats, Queen is open to the public from July from Bette Davis in 1939 through to Glenda to October. On a tour of the lavish State Jackson in 1971 and Cate Blanchett in 1998 and Rooms and garden, you can see the Old 2007 – plus Miranda Richardson’s hilariously Masters in the Royal Collection of art. childish Queenie in Blackadder. Helen Mirren Seen on screen: Countless appearances hasn’t just played Elizabeth I but Elizabeth II, of the exterior, but the interior is doubled too, winning an Oscar for The Queen. by other homes, including Cliveden House The Virgin Queen’s father, Henry VIII, and Englefield House in Berkshire, is equally attractive to actors: and Lancaster House and Osterley Charles Laughton, Richard Manor in London. In the “The Tudors Burton, Robert Shaw, Ray London 2012 Olympics was racy, Wolf Winstone, Jonathan Rhys Opening Ceremony, Danny Hall cerebral and Meyers and Damian Lewis Boyle filmed Daniel Craig as The Royals flatare just a few of those to have James Bond in Buckingham played the axe-happy antihero. Palace with the Queen. out bonkers” And the royal TV series just keep coming: The Tudors was racy, Wolf Kensington Palace Hall award-winningly cerebral and Liz Tour the magnificent King’s and Hurley’s E! series The Royals flat-out bonkers. Queen’s State Apartments in the former Channel 4 meanwhile recently launched its home of Queen Victoria and Diana, Princess sitcom, The Windsors. of Wales, and pay a visit to the Diana Because some of the castles and palaces Memorial Fountain which is nearby in are lived in by the royal family, they don’t all Hyde Park. The exhibition Fashion Rules welcome huge film crews, so other historic Restyled is on until 2017. buildings act as stand-ins. Here are Britain’s Seen on screen: In 2009’s The Young top royal attractions, as picked by Visit Britain, Victoria, Ham House in Richmond stood along with their ‘stunt doubles’. in for Kensington Palace. ww www.wheretraveler.com w.where w w w. w h e trer ave t r ave l el er.r.ccoom m 11

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BBC TOURS Ever wondered what it’s like being behind a microphone in front of a TV camera? Have you got what it takes to present the weather, read the news or act in a live radio play? Well, now you can find out on a behind-the-scenes tour of the BBC at MediaCityUK in Salford, Greater Manchester. As well as trying your chances as the next news reporter, you can walk in the footsteps of the nation’s biggest stars, see multimedia technology in action and visit the iconic set of Match of the Day. You’ll also get to see where the world’s longest-running children’s programme, Blue Peter, is made. You can also tour BBC Glasgow, Belfast, Bristol and more. www.bbc.co.uk

WINDSOR CASTLE

WESTMINSTER ABBEY

This is the Queen’s favourite residence, and the largest and oldest occupied castle in the world. Visit the sumptuous State Apartments, St George’s Chapel and Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House. If you see the royal standard flag flying, which is red, yellow and blue, it means the Queen is in residence. If you visit on a weekend then you might be in luck, as this is the Queen’s weekend home. The venue is currently hosting the exhibition Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from the Queen’s Wardrobe, which displays items of clothing worn by Her Majesty over the years. Seen on screen: My Week with Marilyn did shoot briefly outside the castle, as Marilyn Monroe visited it while she was filming The Prince and the Showgirl. But the visit by Michelle Williams and Eddie Redmayne to the library actually took place in Hatfield House in Hertfordshire.

This is where every monarch since 1066 has been crowned, and where the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (Prince William and Kate Middleton) were wed. It contains the graves of the country’s greatest minds, too, from Isaac Newton to Charles Dickens. Seen on screen: Feature films have to use stand-ins, such as Lincoln Cathedral in The Da Vinci Code and The Young Victoria, Ely Cathedral in Cambridgeshire in The King’s Speech and St Nicholas Church in Dunsany Castle in Braveheart.

HAMPTON COURT PALACE Tudor times are recreated by costumed characters in Henry VIII’s favourite residence; don’t miss the maze and the famously beautiful gardens by ‘Capability’ Brown. Seen on screen: In recent years Hampton Court has become one of Britain’s biggest film ‘stars’, appearing in The Young Victoria, Jack the Giant Slayer, Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides, The Theory of Everything, Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows and Terrence Malick’s The New World.

TOWER OF LONDON This 900-year-old guarded fortress on the north side of Tower Bridge is home to the magnificent Crown Jewels. Prisoners who have been locked away here include Sir Thomas More, King Henry VIII’s wife Anne Boleyn and Guy Fawkes. Expect to queue. Seen on screen: Tom Cruise filmed Mission Impossible: Rogue Nation here, though the café he eats at doesn’t exist in real life. But even Cruise’s star power was upstaged by the wedding of Kermit and Miss Piggy in Muppets: Most Wanted. Top: Tower of London Left: The Windsors TV series

PREVIOUS PAGES: BUCKINGHAM PALACE © BRITISH TOURIST AUTHORITY; THE ROYALS COURTESY OF E! NEWS UK; HAMPTON COURT PALACE © VISIT BRITAIN/HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES. THIS PAGE: TOWER OF LONDON © VISIT BRITAIN/ANDREW PICKETT; THE WINDSORS © CHANNEL 4 PICTURE PUBLICITY

WHERE NOW | FILM LOCATIONS

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OF THE ARTIST

Exhibitions rarely get bigger than this – Sam Rogg celebrates Pablo Picasso as his portraits come to the National Portrait Gallery

ablo Picasso’s career spanned almost 80 years, and over that time he created more than 20,000 works of art, including paintings, sculptures and ceramics. No artist before or after him has been more prolific or versatile. Time and time again, he redefined various art forms, shifting his style whenever he pleased. ‘Are we to paint what’s on the face, what’s inside the face, or what’s behind it?’ he asked when it came to portraiture. This month, the National Portrait Gallery reveals how masterfully he could do all three. More than 80 of the Spanish artist’s works will be on display in Picasso Portraits, ranging from familiar masterpieces to paintings that have never been shown in Britain. ‘This exhibition will confront one’s preconceived ideas of what a portrait should be and what a Picasso ought to look like,’ says Bernardo Laniado-Romero, director of Museu Picasso in Barcelona, who worked with the National Portrait Gallery to stage this landmark show.

Naturally, there are more than a few cubist portraits on display, executed in the style that Picasso himself invented. More unusual are the classic drawings, self-portraits and witty caricatures he created, inspired by artists such as Velázquez and Rembrandt. ‘I had quite strict criteria for what constituted a portrait,’ says curator Professor Elizabeth Cowling ahead of the show. ‘The works had to be of identified individuals and to be set up as portraits rather than, say, as nudes or genre scenes.’ Friends, lovers, wives, children – Picasso famously chose to depict people in his inner circle rather than work to commission like many of his peers. The result is an amazing kaleidoscope of characters and intimate moments that leap off the canvas like pages from a journal. But then, as Picasso always said, ‘painting is just another way of keeping a diary’. From 6 Oct. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7306 0055. www.npg.org.uk

Self-portrait, 1896 Painted when he was just 15 years old, this classic self-portrait proves what an accomplished artist Picasso was from an early age. ‘Here, he was painting in the realist mode that was practised by his father, who was his first teacher,’ says Cowling. ‘He was looking in the mirror and trying to record quite faithfully the image that he saw. That said, the lighting of the painting, the facial expression, and the treatment of the eyes – one looking out at the viewer, the other in shadow – all suggest an interest in communicating mood.’ It is around this time that Picasso began to meet a circle of writers and artists while living in Barcelona. ‘Every child is an artist,’ he later said. ‘The problem is how to remain an artist once he grows up.’

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picasso © csu-archives everett-collection; picasso self-portrait © Museu Picasso, Barcelona/Succession Picasso/DACS London, 2016; Daniel-Henry Kahnweiler, autumn 1910 © Art Institute of Chicago/Succession Picasso/ DACS London/Estate of Pablo Picasso/Artists Rights Society (ARS) New York; Woman in a Hat (Olga), 1935 © Centre Pompidou, Paris/Musée national d’art moderne Centre Pompidou, Paris/Succession Picasso/DACS London

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Pablo picasso | Where now

Daniel-Henry Kahnweiler, autumn 1910 Look closely at this abstract painting, which is rarely exhibited outside the US, and you’ll notice a surprisingly traditional portrait pose of a seated man, his hands clasped in his lap. The subject, Daniel-Henry Kahnweiler, was Picasso’s art dealer and a big believer in his burgeoning art movement, cubism, one of the most influential styles of the 20th century. ‘What would have become of us if Kahnweiler hadn’t had a business sense?’ wrote Picasso. It’s said that the German sat more than 30 times for this portrait, as Picasso sought to break down and recombine the shapes he saw, no longer constrained by the pursuit of a true depiction. In two years he would take cubism in a brighter, less austere direction, introducing collage to his artworks in yet another major innovation for the art world.

Woman in a Hat (Olga), 1935 Not just any woman in a hat, as this painting depicts Picasso’s first wife Olga, the Ukrainian ballet dancer he met in 1917 after designing the costumes for the Ballets Russes in Paris. By 1935, however, their marriage had deteriorated and Olga left Picasso after learning about his long-running affair with Marie-Thérèse Walter. ‘It was obviously done from memory, not from life,’ says Cowling. ‘It’s very poignant because the expression on the face is one of utter bewilderment – almost the face of a sad clown. I’m sure visitors to the exhibition will disagree about the nature and purpose of this painting. It’s far from easy to define. I find that I react to it differently on different occasions. Exhibitions are thrilling because we discover so much – not just works we’ve never seen before but discoveries about works we think we know extremely well.’ www.wheretraveler.com 15

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Where now | Pablo picasso

Portrait of Nusch Éluard, 1938 By now, Picasso was at the top of his game, having painted two of his most iconic works the year before – Guernica and The Weeping Woman. Nusch Éluard, meanwhile, was a performer and muse to the Surrealist movement, modelling for the likes of Man Ray, Miró, Magritte and, of course, Picasso, with whom she is said to have had an affair. There is no doubt that she played a crucial role in Surrealism but her beauty was more than skin deep. In a bid to combat depression, she created spectacular collages in the style of the men she inspired, and during the Nazi occupation of France during World War II, she risked her life working for the French Resistance. Her sudden death from a stroke in 1946 aged just 40 devastated many in the art world.

Self-portrait, 1972 Far from slowing down, Picasso’s output picked up when he hit his late eighties. In fact, he created more in the final four years of his life than in any other period in his career. Not since he was a teenager in Barcelona did he compulsively create at such speed. Here, aged 91, he could be seen to be staring death in the face. ‘I see the head of a giant (who certainly resembles Picasso) that is transforming into a skull. I see a head that is like a massive boulder,’ says Cowling. Why turn yourself into rock? ‘Bone and stone last; flesh doesn’t.’ Just one year later, Picasso – arguably the most important artist of the 20th century – passed away.

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Pick up a prized piece at one of this month’s art fairs – it might be priceless one day, says Sam Rogg

HANDMADE AT KEW (6-9 OCT) Set in London’s picturesque Royal Botanic Gardens, this four-day event organised by Handmade in Britain showcases exceptional and innovative contemporary craftsmanship from all corners of the globe. Explore the work of more than 150 designer-makers in a shopping experience unlike anywhere else in the capital. This year’s highlights include delicate porcelain vessels by Bridget Macklin; animal-inspired pieces by John Noble-Milner (above); contemporary jewellery by mother-and-daughter team Mamm + Myrgh and beautiful bold prints by Rosa Doyle. Housed in a pavilion next to the spectacular Kew Palace, this outdoor arts and crafts fair is a wonderful place to browse, buy and commission directly from the exhibiting makers while enjoying all that this UNESCO World Heritage Site has to offer. Tickets to the fair include access to the whole of Kew Gardens, so leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy permanent attractions such as the Henry Moore sculpture, 18th-century pagoda, treetop walkway and lake. Kew, Richmond, TW9 3AB. www.kew.org

FRIEZE ART FAIR (6-9 OCT) Now in its 14th year, the world’s leading contemporary art fair continues to attract exciting galleries from across the globe. The fair focuses on living artists who actively engage with visitors in a bespoke temporary structure in beautiful Regent’s Park. Expect to see some big names, with an equally dazzling Frieze Masters fair (20th-century and earlier works) taking place, too. Look out for celebrity buyers and talks from art-world figures each day. There are restaurants and cafés on site, so you can make a day of it. Regent’s Park, NW1 4NR. www.frieze.com

PAD ART FAIR (3-9 OCT) Discover an inspiring collection of art at the Pavilion of Art & Design London, also known as the PAD. A spin-off of the popular Parisian event, PAD London is the place for ‘blue chip names’ and prestigious dealers, and feels more like a series of exhibitions than a traditional art fair. Now in its 10th year, PAD attracts some of the finest galleries from North America, Asia and Europe, with an outstanding selection of museum-quality pieces – just the thing for creating exquisite interiors at home. Works range from ceramics to antiquities and photography to tribal art, and there is a stylish restaurant on-site. Mingle with international collectors, specialists, art consultants and experts in a setting that is almost as charming as the artworks. Berkeley Square, W1J 5AX. www.pad-fairs.com/london

AFFORDABLE ART FAIR (20-23 OCT) As its name suggests, this is the event to snap up contemporary pieces at fair prices, with many incredible works available for less than £500. What started in 1999 as a London fair to highlight relatively unknown artists has now grown into a global phenomenon, with multiple Affordable Art Fairs taking place in cities around the world. Visitors to the capital can experience the fair in its original south London home of Battersea Park this month, where more than 100 local and international galleries gather to offer art, advice, talks and workshops. There are also children’s activities and a free crèche on-site. Battersea Evolution, Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. www.affordableartfair.com

GECKO BY JOHN-NOBLE MILNER COURTESY OF HANDMADE AT KEW; FRIEZE ART FAIR © LYNDON DOUGLAS/FRIEZE; LOUISE DAVIES’ RED MEADOWS COURTESY OF AFFORDABLE ART FAIR; VESSELS BY ZAHA HADID AND GARETH NEAL COURTESY OF PAD ART FAIR

DISCOVER THE NEXT PICASSO…

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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

FRIEZE ART FAIR Philippe Parreno’s Fraught Times: For Eleven Months of the Year it’s an Artwork and in December it’s Christmas, POA 6-9 Oct, Regent’s Park, NW1 4NR

FROM LONDON As London art and antique fairs take over the city, we look at works by exciting artists

Top Pick WINTER ART FAIR Edward Wesson’s painting of Trafalgar Square looking towards The National Gallery (Mark Mitchell Gallery), POA 31 Oct-6 Nov, Olympia London, Hammersmith Rd, W14 8UX

HANDMADE AT KEW John Noble-Milner’s Common Frog in Bronze, £585 6-9 Oct, Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, TW9 3AB

1:54 CONTEMPORARY AFRICAN ART FAIR Emo de Medeiros’ Surtenture #09 (...because where the mind wanders is the conundrum of freedom), POA Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 1LA

THE OTHER ART FAIR Susana Lopez F’s Time Canary Wharf, £400 6-9 Oct, The Old Truman Brewery, Hanbury St, E1 6QR

PAD ART FAIR Christopher Thompson Royds’ Natura Morta Buttercup Necklace, POA 3-9 Oct, Berkeley Square, W1J 5AX

MONIKER ART FAIR Ben Eine’s The Last Days of Shoreditch 2016, £195 6-9 Oct, The Old Truman Brewery, 85 Brick Lane, E1 6QR

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF THE RETAILERS; WOMAN © ISTOCK

AFFORDABLE ART FAIR Louise Davies’ Midnight on the River, £250 20-23 Oct, Battersea Evolution, Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ

MADE LONDON Adriana Homewares’ Orange Cushion Stack, POA 20-23 Oct, 1 Marylebone Rd, NW1 4AQ

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SIGHTSEEING | THE GUIDE

The fear factor Have you got what it takes to survive London over Halloween? Visit the capital’s Victorian cemeteries, an ancient prison and dungeons or go on a ghost tour to find out, says Sarah Riches What with the plague, wars and the great fire, London has more than its fair share of tortured souls. The question is, where will you find them this Halloween? Start your hunt at one of the Magnificent Seven cemeteries – Kensal Green, West Norwood, Highgate, Abney Park, Nunhead, Brompton and Tower Hamlets – which were built between 1832 and 1841. See the grave of Karl Marx at Highgate, explore a derelict Gothic chapel in Abney Park or visit Kensal Green, an eerily beautiful resting place inspired by Paris’s Père Lachaise cemetery. Every Sunday you can take a guided tour of the 72-acre’s 130 listed tombs, memorials and mausoleums (Highgate Cemetery, Swain’s Lane, N6 6PJ; Abney Park Cemetery, Stoke Newington High St, N16 0L; Kensal Green Cemetery, Harrow Rd, W10 4RA). Alternatively, take a Haunted Happenings ghost hunt around The Ragged School Museum (29 Oct). Once the doors are locked and the lights go out, there’s no going back. Noted for its apparitions and poltergeist activity, some members of staff refuse to access parts

of the school alone. Tormented cries, laughter and bangs have been recorded on sound devices and you might also hear footsteps in empty rooms. Try out a ouija board, dowsing rods, glass divination and table tipping, ask spirits questions using a sensitive recorder in séances or brave a lone vigil in an upstairs cupboard or the basement – if you dare (The Ragged School Museum, 46-50 Copperfield Rd, E3 4RR). The London Dungeon (p. 27) will lure you into a witch-finder’s den that’s inspired by Matthew Hopkins, a witch-hunter in the 1600s. During the multi-sensory experience you’ll be subjected to tales of sorcery and witchcraft before ‘Hopkins’ demands a confession. You’ll also meet a coven of witches, watch witch shows and hear about history’s greatest rogues.

The chances of bumping into a tortured spirit at The London Bridge Experience & Tombs (22-31 Oct; p. 27) are high when you factor in that the attraction is built on a former plague pit. Over 16s can join in with Phobophobia and enter into the Nightmare of the Ventriloquist. The puppets want you to join in their games, but beware – they don’t have strings to hold them back. Sounds too scary? Then lower the fear factor at the Tower of London’s after-hours illustration class, Blood and Jewels (11 Oct; p. 28). As you hear legends, such as an attempted theft by Colonel Blood, you’ll sketch contemporary crowns made by the designer Hysteria Machine as well as costumed characters including Kika von Macabre and a catacomb saint dressed in gold and pearls. Spooky!

KENSAL GREEN CEMETERY © ADAM MORIARTY; TOWER OF LONDON © ISTOCK; WITCH AT THE LONDON DUNGEON © CHRIS GLOAG

Clockwise from this picture: Kensal Green Cemetery; Tower of London; a witch at The London Dungeon

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

The last word Pyrotechnic art and line dancing have little in common, but you can see both at the Bloomsbury Festival (19-23 Oct; p. 47). The annual festival’s 150 events can draw up to 50,000 people. This year’s theme is ‘language’, so expect creative works influenced by speech, non-verbal communication, Morse code and sign language – even computer code. Highlights include a children’s choir performing in Coram’s Fields (19 Oct), an immersive incantation at the British Museum (19-23 Oct) and world music at the School of Oriental and African Studies (22 Oct). On Store Street, learn Bollywood and B-Boy moves, as well as swing and line dancing. You can also see pyrotechnic art (21 Oct; left), which will leave you lost for words, and enjoy a street party with a twist.

Sightseeing Apsley House Visit the home of the Duke of Wellington to see its grand interiors and fine art. Please check for times. www.english-heritage.org.uk/apsleyhouse. 149 Piccadilly, Hyde Park Corner, W1J 7NT. T: 020-7499 5676. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Banqueting House This 17th-century building was designed by Inigo Jones for James I, with an exquisite painted ceiling. Mon-Sun 10am-1pm, but call before visiting. Adult £6; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Whitehall, SW1A 2ER. T: 020-3166 6000. E8. Station: Westminster.

Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Zoo with a petting farm and keeper experiences. Daily 10am-5.30pm. Adult £8.95; child £6.95. www.batterseaparkzoo.co.uk. Battersea Park, Chelsea Bridge Gate, SW11 4NJ. T: 020-7924 5826. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Buckingham Palace To 2 Oct: Opening of the State Rooms. Visit the London residence and workplace of the monarchy. Fashioning a Reign: 90 Years of Style from The Queen’s Wardrobe celebrates the Queen’s 90th birthday through fashion. Daily 9.15am-6.45pm. Adult £21.50; child £12.30. www.royalcollection. org.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

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SIGHTSEEING Changing the Guard

Eltham Palace and Gardens

Ham House and Gardens

At 11.30am every other day, watch the changing of the Queen’s Guard on Buckingham Palace’s forecourt. There is no ceremony in very wet weather. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 030-3123 7300. www.changing-the-guard. com. Changing the Life Guard Ceremony takes place Mon-Fri 11am; Sun 10am – check for last-minute changes. www.royal.gov.uk. Buckingham Palace, The Mall, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303123 7300. F6/F7. Station: Victoria/Green Park.

Experience the decade of decadence as you are transported back to the 1930s. 24-28 Oct: Half Term Horrors. Crafts, costumes and pumpkin carving. Please check for prices and times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/eltham. Court Yard, SE9 5QE. T: 020-8294 2548. Off map. Station: Eltham.

One of Europe’s greatest 17th-century houses with gardens that are said to be haunted. Please check for times. Adult £10.40; child £5.20. www.national trust.org.uk. Ham St, Surrey, TW10 7RS. T: 0208940 1950. Off map. Station: Richmond.

Fulham Palace

The former homes of Anglo-German composer George Frideric Handel and American guitarist Jimi Hendrix. Mon-Sat 11pm-6pm; Sun noon-6pm. Adult £10; child £5. www.handelhouse.org. 25 Brook St, W1K 4HB. T: 020-7495 1685. D6. Station: Bond Street.

In London’s oldest botanic garden you can admire 5,000 species of plants. Tue-Fri & Sun 11am-6pm. Adult £9.50; child £6.95. www.chelseaphysicgarden. co.uk. 66 Royal Hospital Rd, SW3 4HS. T: 020-7352 5646. Off map. Station: Sloane Square.

This attractive 15th-century building was the summer retreat of the Bishops of London and now has a museum, historic rooms and shop. 9 Oct: Apple Day Celebration. Tastings, storytelling, live music, food and drink stalls. 30-31 Oct: Ghost Tour (p. 22). Please check for times. Admission free, charges for special events. www.fulhampalace.org. Bishop’s Avenue, SW6 6EA. T: 020-7736 3233. Off map. Station: Putney Bridge.

Cutty Sark

Go Ape Battersea Park

This 19th-century ship is the world’s last surviving tea clipper. Explore interactive displays or family events. Please check for times. Adult £12.15; child £6.30. Joint tickets with Royal Observatory available. www.rmg.co.uk/cuttysark. Cutty Sark, King William Walk, SE10 9HT. T: 0208312 6608. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich.

Make like a monkey at this treetop adventure playground. Negotiate ladders, bridges and zip lines while attached to a harness. Daily from 9.30am. Adult £33; child £18-£25. www.goape.co.uk/ battersea-park. Battersea Park, SW11 4NJ. T: 0845643 9236. Off map. Station: Battersea Park.

Dr Johnson’s House

A full-size reconstruction of Sir Francis Drake’s 16th-century vessel, in which he circumnavigated the globe. Regular events include quiz nights and battle workshops. Daily 10am5.30pm. Guided tour adult £7; child £5. www.golden hinde.com. 1 Pickfords Wharf, Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0123. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Chelsea Physic Garden

The home where Dr Samuel Johnson compiled his English dictionary, which was first published in 1755. Mon-Sat 11am-5pm. Adult £6; child £2.50. www.drjohnsonshouse.org. 17 Gough Square, EC4A 3DE. T: 020-7353 3745. D9. Station: Temple/ Chancery Lane.

Golden Hinde II

Handel & Hendrix in London

HMS Belfast Permanently moored on the River Thames, this ship is Europe’s only surviving World War II cruiser. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £14.50; child £7.25. www.iwm. org.uk. The Queen’s Walk, off Tooley St, SE1 2JH. T: 020-7940 6300. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Houses of Parliament The site of British Parliament since 1265, the building was constructed in the 19th century. Guided and audio tours 4-7 Oct & every Sat. Guided tour adult £25.50; child £11. Audio tour adult £18.50; child £7.50 (first child free). www.parliament.uk/visiting. Palace of Westminster, Parliament Square, SW1A 0AA. T: 020-7219 4114. F8. Station: Westminster.

The Jewel Tower Built around 1365 to house Edward III’s treasures. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £4.70; child £2.80. www.english-heritage.org.uk. Abingdon St, SW1P 3JX. T: 020-7222 2219. F8. Station: Westminster.

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SIGHTSEEING Kensington Palace

Madame Tussauds

This royal residence sits in Kensington Gardens and was Princess Diana’s last home. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £16.30; child free. www.hrp.org.uk. Kensington Gardens, W8 4PX. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington/Queensway.

PASS PARTNER The celebrated home of life-sized wax figures depicting famous people from the worlds of politics, film, music and more. Joint tickets with the London Aquarium, London Dungeon, London Eye and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Check for times. Adult £35; child £29.50. www.madame tussauds.com/london. Marylebone Rd, NW1 5LR. T: 0871-894 3000. C6. Station: Baker Street.

Kenwood On the edge of Hampstead Heath, Kenwood house and its landscaped gardens is a hidden gem. Free admission. Please check for times. www.englishheritage.org.uk/kenwood. Hampstead Lane, NW3 7JR. T: 020-8348 1286. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Kew Palace PASS PARTNER To 2 Oct: This royal retreat in the grounds of Kew Gardens was home to King George III. Don’t miss the Royal Kitchens and its garden. 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free with Kew Gardens tickets. www.hrp.org.uk. Kew Gardens, Richmond, TW9 3AB. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

KidZania London Parents take a back seat here as children take charge, trying out careers from TV presenting to chocolate-making. Daily from 10am; call for closing times. Adult £18; child £31-£33.50. www.london.kidzania.com. Westfield London Shopping Centre, Ariel Way, W12 7GA. T: 0330-131 3333. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

The London Bridge Experience & Tombs An exciting history lesson on the past of the 1,700-year-old London Bridge site. Actors bring this attraction to life (p. 22). Tickets also include the London Tombs, under the bridge, which are in a former plague pit. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-6pm. Adult £26.95; child £21.45. www.the londonbridgeexperience.com. 2-4 Tooley St, SE1 2SY. T: 020-7403 6333. E10. Station: London Bridge. C

The London Dungeon

Adult £4; child £2. Joint tickets with the Tower Bridge Exhibition available. www.themonument. info. The Monument, Monument St, EC3R 6BD. T: 020-7626 2717. E10. Station: Monument.

Old Royal Naval College

This Baroque masterpiece, which is part of the Maritime Greenwich World Heritage Site, is the home of British naval training, with costumed characters and tours. Don’t miss the magnificent ceiling in the Painted Hall. Check for guided tours. Daily, please check for opening The Monument times. Admission free. www.ornc.org. King A stone column commemorating the devastating BBTLDTWhereLondon_190x118_050815 copy.pdf 1 05/08/2015 16:08 William Walk, SE10 9NN. T: 020-8269 4799. 1666 Great Fire of London. You can climb the 311 Off map. Station: Cutty Sark/Greenwich. steps to its observation gallery. Daily 9.30am-6pm.

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PASS PARTNER Spectacular sets, actors and special effects Y evoke ghoulish encounters from 1,000 years CM of Britain’s murky past in a grimly comedic style. Not for small children or the faint-hearted (p.MY22). Joint tickets with London Aquarium, London CY Eye, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. Please check for opening times and CMY prices. www.thedungeons.com. County Hall, K Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-423 2240. F8. Station: Waterloo/Embankment.

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ZSL London Zoo PASS PARTNER Immerse yourself in the animal kingdom at the world’s oldest scientific zoo, which has more than 750 species. 22-30 Oct: Boo and the Zoo. Animal demonstrations and Halloween-themed activities such as a pumpkin trail and creepy crafts. Charges for special events. To 21 Oct 10am-5.30pm; from 22 Oct 10am-5pm. Adult £25.50; child £18.50. www.zsl.org. London Zoo, Regent’s Park, NW1 4RY. T: 020-7722 3333. C6. Station: Camden Town.

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SIGHTSEEING Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park

Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

The Royal Observatory

Formerly the London 2012 Olympic Games site. Please check for regular events. Open 24 hours. Admission free. www.queenelizabetholympicpark. co.uk. Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, E20 2ST. T: 0800-072 2110. Off map. Station: Stratford.

PASS PARTNER Better known as Kew Gardens, this botanical research centre and World Heritage Site contains plants from across the globe. To 29 Oct 10am6pm; 30-31 Oct 10am-4.15pm. Adult £15; child £3.50. www.kew.org. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB. T: 020-8332 5655. Off map. Station: Kew Gardens.

PASS PARTNER The home of Greenwich Mean Time and London’s only planetarium. Observatory and Meridian Line daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.50; child £5. www.rmg. co.uk. Blackheath Avenue, SE10 8XJ. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich.

Ripley’s Believe It or Not! PASS PARTNER This curiosity-filled museum has more than 700 artefacts, from a shrunken head to an albino alligator and the world’s tallest man. Daily 10ammidnight. Adult £27.95; child £20.95. www.ripleys london.com. 1 Piccadilly Circus, W1J 0DA. T: 0203238 0022. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Royal Mews Built by John Nash, this houses the Queen’s vehicles. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9.30; child £5.50. www.royal collection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 1QH. T: 020-7766 7302. F6. Station: Victoria.

Sea Life London Aquarium PASS PARTNER One of Europe’s largest aquariums with 500 species of global marine life and walk-through tank tunnels. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat-Sun 9am-7pm (22-31 Oct also 9am-7pm). Adult £24.50; child £18.10. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Shrek’s Adventure! available. www.sea life.co.uk/london. County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-663 1678. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Shrek’s Adventure! PASS PARTNER Live actor shows based on the films. Joint tickets with London Eye, London Dungeon, Madame Tussauds and Sea Life London Aquarium available. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sun 10am-6pm; Thur 11am-6pm. Adult £27; child £21.85. www.shreksadventure.com. Riverside Building, County Hall, Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-221 2837. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Stafford Terrace The former home of Punch illustrator Edward Linley Sambourne is now a museum. Check for times and prices. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 18 Stafford Terrace, W8 7BH. T: 020-7602 3316 (Mon-Fri) & T: 020-7938 1295 (Sat-Sun). Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

St Katharine Docks The vibrant waterside destination is lined with regular markets, shops and galleries. www.sk docks.co.uk. 50 St Katharine’s Way, E1W 1LA. T: 020-7264 5287. Off map. Station: Tower Hill.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Landmark Palladian church with tours, a brassrubbing centre and live classical music (some free). Please check for opening times. Admission free; brass rubbing from £4.50. www.stmartin-in-thefields.org. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 0207766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

St Paul’s Cathedral PASS PARTNER Sir Christopher Wren’s 300-year-old cathedral. Climb up the dome to the Whispering Gallery and a further 271 steps for views of London. Free tours. Mon-Sat 8.30am-4.30pm. Adult £18; child £8. www.stpauls.co.uk. St Paul’s Churchyard, EC4M 8AD. T: 020-7246 8350. D9/10. Station: St Paul’s.

Tower Bridge Exhibition This bridge, designed in 1884, is one of London’s iconic landmarks. Joint tickets with The Monument available. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £3.90. www.towerbridge.org.uk. Tower Bridge Rd, SE1 2UP. T: 020-7403 3761. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

Tower of London This historic landmark includes the Bloody Tower, Traitors’ Gate and Crown Jewels (p. 22). Tue-Sat 9am-5.30pm; Sun-Mon 10am-5pm. Adult £22.50; child £10.50. www.hrp.org.uk/tower-oflondon. Tower Hill, EC3N 4AB. T: 0844-482 7799. E11. Station: Tower Hill.

The Vault Home to rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia. Daily 11.30am10.30pm. Admission free. www.hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe London, 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1QZ. T: 020-7514 1700. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner. 28 W H E R E LO N D O N I O C TO B E R 2016

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SIGHTSEEING The View from The Shard

Capital Taxi Tours

Golden Tours Open-top Bus Tours

Pass Partner Ascend the tallest building in Western Europe for great views of London. Daily 10am-10pm – check before visiting. Advance adult £25.95, child £19.95; on the day adult £30.95, child £24.95. www.theview fromtheshard.com. 32 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG. T: 0844-499 7111. E10. Station: London Bridge.

A Blue Badge or City of London-qualified guide drives you around in a licensed taxi for up to five people. Prices vary and are per taxi; please check for further details. www.capitaltaxitours.co.uk. T: 020-8590 3621.

See all the major sights aboard London’s newest fleet of open-top bus tours. Live guided (Essential Tour) or multilingual audio commentary (all routes) tours offer a chance to hop-on and hop-off at more than 60 stops across the city. The one-day, 24-hour and 48-hour tickets provide flexibility for visitors to London. Adult £25; child £11; family £65. T: 0207630 2039. www.goldentours.com. Station: Various.

Warner Bros Studio Tour London Pass Partner Explore behind the scenes of the Harry Potter films. From 15 Oct: 15th Anniversary Film Celebrations. Check for times. Adult £35; child £27. Booking essential. www.wbstudiotour.co.uk. Studio Tour Drive, Leavesden, Hertfordshire, WD25 7LS. T: 0845-084 0900. Off map. Station: Euston to Watford Junction, then shuttle bus.

Golden Tours From day excursions to overnight city breaks, the London experts offer quality tour experiences from London to popular locations around the country such as Bath, Stonehenge, Windsor Castle and Leeds Castle. The company offers an unrivalled range of tours and services. T: 020-7630 2039. www.goldentours.com. Station: Victoria.

Jack the Ripper Tours Two-hour walks. Booking essential. Daily 7pm from outside Exit 4 of Aldgate East Tube station. £10. www.jack-the-ripper-tour.com. T: 020-8530 8443. Off map. Station: Aldgate East.

Westminster Abbey This abbey is the burial site of English monarchs. Mon-Sat; check for times. Adult £20; child £9. www.westminster-abbey.org. 20 Dean’s Yard, SW1P 3PA. T: 020-7222 5152. F7. Station: Westminster.

River Trips City Cruises Pass Partner Daily guided sightseeing tours with a hop-on, hop-off sightseeing service. Check for times and prices. www.citycruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JH. T: 020-7740 0400. Departure points vary.

London Duck Tours See sights on land before experiencing a splashdown in the river. Adult £26; child £18. www.londonducktours.co.uk. 55 York Rd, SE1 7NJ. T: 020-7928 3132. F8. Station: Waterloo.

London Eye River Cruise Live commentary on a 40-minute cruise. Daily 11.45am-7.45pm (1-2 Oct from 10.45am). Adult £13.15; child £6.58. Discounted joint tickets with the London Eye available. www.londoneye.com. London Eye Pier, South Bank, SE1 7PB. T: 0871-781 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

MBNA Thames Clippers Pass Partner The fastest and most frequent fleet on the river, with departures from major London piers every 20 minutes. The boats set off from 20 piers across the capital. River Roamer hop on and off adult £17.35; child £8.65. www.thamesclippers.com. Various points along the Thames. T: 020-7001 2200.

Thamesjet Try this 50-minute adrenaline-fuelled experience. 10am-4pm Wed-Sun Oct-Mar. Adult from £39; child from £29. www.thamesjet.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7740 0400.

Tours & Guided Walks Big Bus Tours Daily sightseeing trips aboard a fleet of opentop double-decker buses. Adult £22; child £11. www.bigbustours.com. Various departure points. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Victoria.

Big Bus Walking Tours Choose from Royal London at 10.20am; Harry Potter at 2pm and London Rocks at 5pm. £5 or free with a Big Bus Tour. Daily. www.bigbustours.com. Depart from Big Bus stop 10, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7808 6753. Station: Charing Cross. www.wheretraveler.com 29

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SIGHTSEEING The London Helicopter Tour

Royal Albert Hall Tours

Discover the capital from the unique perspective of a helicopter. The new Doors Off Aerial Photography Flights offer an unparalleled experience, where you can glide in the helicopter with the doors open. Prices start at £150 per seat for a shared tour. www.thelondonhelicopter.com. POD Building, Bridges Court, SW11 2RE. T: 0207887 2626. Off map. Station: Clapham Junction.

Take a one-hour Grand Tour of this Victorian concert hall. Most days throughout the year, call for times. Adult £12.75; child £5.75. www.royal alberthall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7959 0558. F4. Station: South Kensington.

London Walks London’s oldest walking tour company offers more than 300 walks. Adult £10; child free when accompanied by an adult. www.walks.com. Departure points vary. T: 020-7624 3978.

Original London Sightseeing Walk Walks depart daily from the Original London Visitor Centre and include Changing the Guard (departing 10.30am); Rock ‘n’ Roll (1pm) and Jack the Ripper (3.30pm from Tower Hill station). Walking tours are free with Original London Sightseeing Tour. www.theoriginal tour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

The Original Tour Pass Partner Live multilingual and highly popular bus tours where you can hop on and off at more than 80 stops. Its original 24-hour tour includes three free walking tours and a Thames River cruise pass. Adult £30; child £15. www.the originaltour.com. 17-19 Cockspur St, Trafalgar Square, SW1Y 5BL. T: 020-8877 1722. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

See London by Night Tour Ride around the capital in the evening for a different view of the capital. Regular departures from outside The Ritz. Tours last 90 minutes. Daily 7.30pm & 9.20pm. Adult £18; child £10. www.see londonbynight.com. 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7183 4744. E6. Station: Green Park.

Shakespeare’s Globe (Tours) Tour this reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre. Globe tours Mon 9.30am-5pm; Tue-Sat 9.30am-12.30pm; Sun 9.30am-11.30am. Exhibition and Globe tour adult £15; child £9. www.shake spearesglobe.com. 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7902 1400. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

Out Of Town Blenheim Palace This Baroque palace was the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill. Palace and formal gardens daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Palace, park and gardens adult £24.90; child £13.90; park and gardens adult £14.90; child £6.90. www.blenheimpalace.com. Woodstock, Oxford, OX20 1PP. T: 01993-810 530. Off map. Paddington to Oxford, then bus S3.

Hampton Court Palace Once home to King Henry VIII, this Tudor palace includes a maze. To 29 Oct palace, maze and formal gardens daily 10am-6pm; from 30 Oct please check. Adult £19; child £9.50. www.hrp. org.uk. Hampton Court, East Molesey, Surrey, KT8 9AU. T: 0844-482 7777. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Hampton Court.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Enter your starting point and destination, and the site will work out a route map, distance, time, calorie burn and carbon saving. www.walkit.com.

The Queen’s residence in Scotland. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £12; child £7.20. www.royal collection.org.uk. Canongate, The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, EH8 8DX. T: 0303-123 7306. Off map. Station: Edinburgh Waverley, then a 15-minute walk.

Wembley Tours

Windsor Castle

Pass Partner Go behind the scenes at this football stadium and concert venue. The tour takes you in the dressing rooms and through the players’ tunnel. Daily from 10am. Adult £19; child £11. www.wembleystadium. com/wembley-tours. Wembley Stadium, HA9 0WS. T: 0800-169 9933. Off map. Station: Wembley Park.

The Queen’s weekend home and the world’s oldest inhabited castle. Daily 9.30am-5.30pm (semi-state rooms closed 14 Oct). Adult £20; child £11.70. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Windsor Castle, Windsor, Berkshire, SL4 1NJ. T: 0303-123 7304. Off map. Station: Waterloo to Windsor & Eton Central or Windsor & Eton Riverside.

Walkit

London looks amazing, beautifully lit up at night

See By Night

The family-friendly Taxi Tour Company “We meet as strangers and part as friends”

Enjoy a private London tour for 2 or 3 hours, half day or even a full day in an iconic London Taxi. See the sights before taking our ‘Hidden Treasures Tour’ to explore parts of London that tourists never normally get to see.

Departing daily from Green Park bus stop next to the Ritz Hotel

Themed tours include Harry Potter, Doctor Who, Downton Abbey, James Bond, The Beatles, Ghost tour, Sinister London, ‘It’s only Rock n Roll’ and many more. Countryside tours including Stonehenge, Oxford, Bath, Windsor.

Call us on: 07970 911223 / 07398 200761 or 020 8590 3621 5 star service and reviews

at 19:30 and 21:20 Spectacular live guided tours of London by night

Adult - £18 Child - £10

Private tours available for groups day or night

Tel: 0844 504 3285 +44 (0)20 7183 4744

www.seelondonbynight.com

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from left: Spring in the Trenches, Ridge Wood; The Shore; Totes Meer (Dead Sea); Tate Britain

Artist Paul Nash captured beauty amid devastation and destruction. Now a landmark exhibition at Tate Britain pays homage to the visionary genius, whose war and landscape paintings still have impact today, says Sam Rogg In 1917, a 27-year-old officer from London, Paul Nash, arrived on the Western Front of World War I. ‘The willows are orange, the poplars carmine with buds, the streams gleam brightest blue and flights of pigeons go wheeling about the field,’ he wrote from the battlefield. Where most people saw only destruction, Nash noticed the beauty of the natural world. He went on to become one of the most important landscape artists of the 20th century and a pivotal figure in the development of British modern art. This autumn, you can experience the largest exhibition of the artist’s work for a generation in Paul Nash at Tate Britain (from 26 Oct), which features a lifetime’s work, from his earliest drawings to his final visionary landscapes. See the symbolist watercolours he completed as an official war artist, including We are Making a New World (1918), one of the most iconic images of World War I. Like so many artists forced to fight, Nash struggled with the brutal irony that war was in fact

fuelling his imagination. Back in the UK, amid the ‘struggles of a war artist without a war’, he continued to reflect on his experiences, as seen in his portrayal of the bleak beauty of the Kent coast in The Shore (1923). By the 1930s, Nash was dabbling in surrealism and photography. He also set up Unit One, a group of modernist artists whose work toured the UK. Among them were Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore, whose

creations can be seen alongside Nash’s as part of this exhibition. Ponder the mysterious objects found within paintings such as Event on the Downs (1934). Later works, including Landscape from a Dream (1936-1938), blur the boundaries between what is real and imagined even more. But Nash’s finest contribution was yet to come. At the outbreak of World War II, he left London for Oxford where, despite increasingly bad health, he set up an Arts Bureau for War Service to unite artists, architects, musicians and writers. Once more an official war artist, he created the most celebrated work of his career, Totes Meer (Dead Sea) (1940-41), which shows a heap of twisted metal transformed into a sea of breaking waves. In 1948, two years after his death, Tate Britain (then called the Tate Gallery) staged a huge memorial exhibition for Nash, attended by Queen Elizabeth, later known as the Queen Mother. Almost 70 years on, his work is as nightmarish and dreamy as ever. For full listing, turn to p. 37

Spring in the Trenches, Ridge Wood; the shore and Totes Meer (Dead Sea) © tate; tate britain © istock

The art of war

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, railway and Docklands Light Railway. Please check for full listings and online discounts. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Museums Arsenal Stadium Tours & Museum Football fans can enjoy a self-guided audio tour for a sneak peek inside the players’ changing rooms and tunnel. Self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9.30am-6pm; Sun 10am-4pm; Legends Tour from 11am (check for dates). Museum open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm; check for match-related closures. Self-guided adult £20; child £10. Legends adult from £40; child from £20.75. Museum only adult £8; child £5. www.arsenal.com/tours. Emirates Stadium, Hornsey Rd, N5 1BU. T: 020-7619 5000. Off map. Station: Arsenal.

Bank of England Museum Explore the story of the Bank of England from its 1694 foundation to the present day. Mon-Fri 10am-5pm; closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum. Threadneedle St, EC2R 8AH. T: 020-7601 5545. D10. Station: Bank.

Benjamin Franklin House This charming 18th-century townhouse was the last home of America’s Founding Father. 25 Oct: Family Day: Hallowe’en. Kids can hear 18th-century scary stories. Architectural tours Mon noon; 1pm; 2pm; 3.15pm and 4.15pm; historical shows Wed-Sun noon; 1pm; 2pm; 3.15pm and 4.15pm. Tue advance booking required. Shows adult £7; under 16s free. Mon guided tours adult £3.50; under 16s free. www.benjaminfranklinhouse.org. 36 Craven St, WC2N 5NF. T: 020-7925 1405. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

The British Museum

Dior by John Galliano Haute Couture autumn/winter 1998-1999 © Guy Marineau

Spring in the Trenches, Ridge Wood; the shore and Totes Meer (Dead Sea) © tate; tate britain © istock

For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com

Unrivalled collection of antiquities, plus the Queen Elizabeth II Great Court. Huge number of permanent displays and treasures from the Roman Empire, Ancient Egypt, Medieval Europe and India. From 27 Oct: South Africa: The Art of a Nation. Old and new pieces are on display in this mesmerising display (p. 36). To 20 Nov: Courting to Contract: Love and Marriage in Iran. Small display celebrating the traditions associated with love in Iran and neighbouring regions. To 27 Nov: Sunken Cities: Egypt’s Lost Worlds. Major exhibition showcasing ancient objects from two lost underwater cities. Sat-Thur 10am-5.30pm; Fri 10am-8.30pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.britishmuseum.org. Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8299. D7/8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Russell Square.

The Cartoon Museum Museum dedicated to caricature and comic art. To 30 Oct: Heroes and Villains. Political cartoon strips and caricatures. Mon-Sat 10.30am5.30pm; Sun noon-5.30pm. Adult £7; under 18s free. www.cartoonmuseum.org. 35 Little Russell St, WC1A 2HH. T: 020-7580 8155. D8. Station: Holborn.

Charles Dickens Museum The former home of Victorian novelist Dickens, where he wrote classics including Oliver Twist. Decorated in early-Victorian style as it might have been when he lived here, it displays his personal possessions. 16 Oct: Housemaid’s Tour. Step back in time to 1839 (10am; 10.45am & 11.30am). To 20 Nov: The Other Dickens: Discovering Catherine Dickens. Explore the role Dickens’ wife played in his life. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Adult £9; child £4. www.dickensmuseum.com. 48 Doughty St, WC1N 2LX. T: 020-7405 2127. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Chelsea FC Stadium Museum & Tours

Fashion and Textile Museum

Interactive tour of Chelsea FC. Tours daily, every 30 minutes 10am-3pm; check for closures and monthly ‘Legends’ tours with past stars of the game (tickets £70). Museum open daily 9.30am-5pm. Adult £22 (museum only £11); child £15 (£9). www.chelsea fc.com/tours. Stamford Bridge, SW6 1HS. T: 0871984 1955. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Contemporary fashion, textiles and jewellery. To 15 Jan: 1920s Jazz Age: Fashion & Photographs. Glittering display of haute couture and ready-towear fashion from 1919 to 1929. Tue-Sat 11am-6pm; Thur until 8pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £9; child free. www.ftmlondon.org. 83 Bermondsey St, SE1 3XF. T: 020-7407 8664. F11. Station: London Bridge.

Churchill War Rooms

Florence Nightingale Museum

The fortified basement where Winston Churchill worked during World War II. You can explore the underground bunker and discover what life was like for the prime minister in the Cabinet War Rooms during the war. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Adult £18; child £9; under fives free. www.iwm.org.uk. Clive Steps, King Charles St, SW1A 2AQ. T: 0207930 6961. F7. Station: Westminster.

Clink Prison Museum A former prison dating back to 1144, it houses an exhibition about London’s penal past and instruments of torture. It’s said to be haunted by the ghosts of former occupants. Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Adult £7.50; child £5.50. www.clink.co.uk. 1 Clink St, SE1 9DG. T: 020-7403 0900. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Fan Museum Unusual museum dedicated to the art of the fan with examples from the 12th century up to the present day. To 31 Dec: Town & Country. Display of fans which depict buildings including stately houses, architectural landmarks and grand hotels. Tue-Sat 11am-5pm; Sun noon-5pm. Adult £4; child £3; under sevens free. www.the fanmuseum.org.uk. 12 Crooms Hill, SE10 8ER. T: 020-8305 1441. Off map. Station: Cutty Sark.

Museum about the work of this pioneering 19th-century British nurse and health reformer, widely known as ‘The Lady with the Lamp’. It also tells the story of Jamaican-born nurse Mary Seacole. To 30 Oct: Take Me to Neverland: Peter Pan from Play to Book and Beyond. Early editions with classic illustrations of the story including works by Mabel Lucie Atwell and Arthur Rackham, and Peter Pan’s Postbag, a collection of children’s letters sent to Peter Pan between 1906 and 1914. Daily 10am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.80. www.florence-nightingale.co.uk. 2 Lambeth Palace Rd, SE1 7EW. T: 020-7620 0374. F8. Station: Waterloo/Westminster.

The Foundling Museum Britain’s original home for abandoned children, founded in 1739 by Thomas Coram, William Hogarth and George Frideric Handel. To 8 Jan: Feeding the 400. Explore a fundamental yet little-examined aspect of life at the Foundling Hospital: food. To 30 Oct: Handel’s Performers. Portraits and documents that bring together the celebrities of the day. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £8.25; child free. www.foundling museum.org.uk. 40 Brunswick Square, WC1N 1AZ. T: 020-7841 3600. C8. Station: Russell Square.

Bad taste Bohemian, goth, glamorous, preppy. When it comes to fashion, it’s all a question of taste. What’s beautiful to one person can seem shocking to another. But just because something is not to your taste, is it bad taste? Is it vulgar? And what is vulgarity, anyway? Visit the Barbican‘s The Vulgar: Fashion Redefined (from 13 Oct; p. 36), an exhibition that questions taste through the ages. On display are historical costumes, couture and ready-to-wear looks by Prada, Louis Vuitton and John Galliano (left), which demonstrate how fashion regularly breaks with and revises taste to create new styles, often celebrating so-called vulgarity and the pleasures it can bring.

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

The Geffrye Museum

House of Illustration

Jewish Museum

Historic 18th-century almshouses with rooms recreating English interiors from 1600 to the present day. 1, 5, 11, 19 & 25 Oct: Restored Almshouse Tours. Get a rare glimpse into the lives of London’s poor and elderly in former times (11am; noon; 1pm; 2pm; 3pm & 4pm). Tour adult £4; child free. Tue-Sun & bank holidays 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.geffrye-museum.org.uk. 136 Kingsland Rd, E2 8EA. T: 020-7739 9893. Off map. Station: Hoxton.

The UK’s only public gallery dedicated solely to illustration was founded by Sir Quentin Blake. To 2 Oct: The BFG in Pictures. Display of never-before-seen Quentin Blake illustrations. Adult £7; child £4. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. www.houseof illustration.org.uk. 2 Granary Square, N1C 4BH. T: 0203696 2020. Off map. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Documenting Jewish history and culture in the UK from 1066 to today, including a lifelike representation of the Jewish East End immigrant quarter. The Holocaust Gallery provides a harrowing collection of photographs and accounts. To 16 Oct: Jukebox, Jewkbox! A Century on Shellac and Vinyl. Go on a musical journey of discovery through popular culture, featuring records that changed lives and the technology that made it happen. To 12 Feb: Scots Jews: Identity, Belonging and the Future. Explore Scotland’s diverse Jewish community through photographer Judah Passow. Sat-Thur 10am-5pm; Fri 10am-2pm. Adult £7.50; child £3.50. www.jewishmuseum.org.uk. Raymond Burton House, 129-131 Albert St, NW1 7NB. T: 020-7284 7384. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

The history, stories and regimental heritage of the five regiments of the Foot Guards: Grenadier, Coldstream, Scots, Irish and Welsh Guards, which today watch over the Royal Palaces. Daily 10am-4pm. Adult £6; child free. www.theguards museum.com. Wellington Barracks, Birdcage Walk, SW1E 6HQ. T: 020-7414 3271. D5. Station: St James’s Park/Westminster.

Horniman Museum & Gardens Collection based upon that of the adventuring Victorian tea trader Frederick John Horniman. To 9 Oct: Avian Forms. Artist Jane Edden creates beautiful and intriguing works that inhabit a space between avian and human. To 30 Oct: Dinosaurs: Monster Families. Interactive family-friendly exhibition exploring the fascinating world of dinosaurs and their babies. Daily 10.30am-5.30pm. Admission free; charges for aquarium and special exhibitions. www.horniman.ac.uk. 100 London Rd, SE23 3PQ. T: 020-8699 1872. Off map. Station: Forest Hill.

Explore the work of the Queen’s mounted guard and look around a working stables. Changing the Queen’s Life Guard daily on Horse Guards Parade at 11am; Sun 10am; plus inspection at 4pm. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £7; child £5. www.household cavalrymuseum.co.uk. Horse Guards, Whitehall, SW1A 2AX. T: 020-7930 3070. E7/8. Station: Westminster/Embankment.

Imperial War Museum Huge displays of conflicts, particularly those that involve Britain and the Commonwealth. To 13 Nov: Fighting Extremes: From Ebola to ISIS. Display showing how Britain’s armed forces deal with very different aspects of global security. To 8 Jan: Real to Reel: A Century of War Movies. Go behind the scenes of some classic war films including Saving Private Ryan and Casablanca and discover stories associated with them. To 28 Aug: Edmund Clark: War of Terror. Explore the measures taken by states to protect their citizens and how those methods of control affect the world. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for some special exhibitions. www.iwm. org.uk. Lambeth Rd, SE1 6HZ. T: 020-7416 5000. E5. Station: Lambeth North/Waterloo.

Top Pick

Leighton House Museum The restored former home of Lord Frederic Leighton is now a museum of his life and work. You can see his paintings, drawings and sculptures. To 2 Oct: Seven Halts on the Somme. Coinciding with the centenary of the Battle of the Somme, this exhibition explores and reveals the ways in which remembrance and consciousness evolve. Wed-Mon 10am-5.30pm. Adult £7; child free. www.rbkc.gov.uk. 12 Holland Park, W14 8LZ. T: 0207602 3316. Off map. Station: Kensington Olympia.

London Film Museum Bond in Motion is the official exhibition of James Bond vehicles that feature in the renowned film series. It is the largest display of its kind staged in London. It also has Cars of Spectre, the first UK exhibition of items from the film. Mon-Fri & Sun 10am-6pm; Sat 10am-7pm. Adult £14.50; child £9.50. www.londonfilmmuseum.com. 45 Wellington St, WC2E 7BN. T: 020-7202 7042. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London Transport Museum Exploring the city’s transport network. The new permanent gallery London by Design reveals how London has become a world leader in transport design. Find out how design is encountered in our everyday journeys. Mon-Thur & Sat-Sun 10am6pm; Fri 11am-6pm. Adult £17; child free. www.lt museum.co.uk. Covent Garden Piazza, WC2E 7BB. T: 020-7379 6344. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Museum of Brands, Packaging & Advertising Fascinating insight into how everyday lives have changed over the past 200 years through the evolution of consumer brands. Exhibits include magazines, newspapers, fashion and design. The revamped Time Tunnel transports visitors through the arrival of cinema, radio and TV and the rise of branding. Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm. Adult £7.50; child £3. www.museumofbrands.com. 111-117 Lancaster Rd, W11 1QT. T: 020-7243 9611. Off map. Station: Ladbroke Grove.

Blessed with talent ‘Four centuries on, Caravaggio’s art still retains the power to inspire, awe and surprise,’ says Dr Gabriele Finaldi, director of The National Gallery, ahead of Beyond Caravaggio (from 12 Oct; p. 36). For the show, which is the first major exhibition in the UK to explore the 17th-century artist’s influence on his contemporaries, the gallery is bringing together more than 45 paintings from museums, stately homes, castles and churches, to reveal how the artist inspired a generation of painters, including Gentileschi, Valentin and Honthorst. Look out for The Taking of Christ (above), painted at the height of his fame. The man with the lantern is said to be Caravaggio’s portrayal of himself – a passive spectator in a divine tragedy.

Museum of London The world’s largest urban history museum, covering London’s history from pre-Roman times to today. From 1 Oct: Punks. Personal collections of DIY fashion, posters, photography and accessories from those who experienced punk first-hand. To 17 Apr: Fire! Fire! Discover London before, during and after the Great Fire of 1666 in an interactive exhibition marking the 350th anniversary of the disaster. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.museumoflondon.org.uk. 150 London Wall, EC2Y 5HN. T: 020-7001 9844. D10. Station: Barbican.

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ, 1602, On indefinite loan to the National Gallery of Ireland from the Jesuit Community, Leeson Street, Dublin who acknowledge the kind generosity of the late Dr Marie Lea-Wilson, 1992 © The National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin

The Guards Museum

Household Cavalry Museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES V&A Museum of Childhood

Museum of London Docklands

Somerset House

The intriguing history of the meandering River Thames, from its time as a Roman thoroughfare to the regeneration of the Docklands. Displays including London, Sugar & Slavery, charting the history of the transatlantic slave trade and its links to the city. The Many East Ends gallery explores the culture and history of the area through the eyes of its inhabitants. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free, charges for special exhibitions. www.museumof london.org.uk/docklands. No. 1 Warehouse, West India Quay, E14 4AL. T: 020-7001 9844. Off map. Station: Canary Wharf/West India Quay.

See art in this neo-classical 18th-century building. To 23 Oct: Björk Digital. An immersive virtual reality exhibition from the Icelandic icon. Galleries daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.somersethouse.org.uk. Strand, WC2R 1LA. T: 020-7845 4600. E8. Temple.

National Maritime Museum

Twinings Museum See vintage teapots and caddies alongside nostalgic photographs of the Twining family. Mon-Fri 9.30am-7.30pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 10.30am-4.30pm. Admission free. www.twinings. co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

National collection of childhood objects, including old games, dating back to the 16th century. From 8 Oct: Game Plan: Board Games Rediscovered. Some of the world’s best-known board games are on display. To 9 Oct: Clangers, Bagpuss & Co. Discover the world of Smallfilms, with original puppets, sets and filming equipment. To 8 Jan: Tales. Twelve images by photographer Sonya Hurtado exploring the imaginary world of childhood. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free. www.museumofchildhood.org.uk. Cambridge Heath Rd, E2 9PA. T: 020-8983 5200. Off map. Station: Bethnal Green.

Spread over several sites, which were originally part of a 19th-century school for seafarers’ children. Includes the Maritime Galleries, housing Captain Cook’s ship Endeavour, Nelson’s Navy with his Trafalgar uniform, plus The Great Map, a huge interactive world map revealing stories from maritime history. The £35m Sammy Ofer Wing holds special exhibitions. 21 Oct: Trafalgar Day. Learn about the experience of ordinary sailors and the representation of the battle in art through short talks and tours around the Museum (noon-4pm). 29 Oct: Museums at Night: Mystery at the Museum Late. Grab a tot of rum to steady your nerves as you help to solve a mystery. Mon-Sun 10am-5pm. Admission free; charges for events and exhibitions. www.rmg.co.uk. Romney Rd, SE10 9NF. T: 020-8858 4422. Off map. Station: Greenwich/Cutty Sark.

Natural History Museum Exhibits about nature’s many wonders. To 6 Nov: Colour and Vision. How the entwined histories of colour and vision have filled the natural world with the hues we see today. Daily 10am-5.50pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nhm.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 5BD. T: 0207942 5000. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Fall in love with Wimbledon

Science Museum Enjoy changing exhibitions, an IMAX 3D cinema and more. You can also see rare exhibits including the BBC’s first radio transmitter 2LO. From 12 Oct: Wonderlab: The Statoil Gallery. New interactive gallery exploring the beauty and wonder in science and mathematics. To 15 Jan: Wounded: Conflict, Casualties and Care. Display commemorating the centenary of the Battle of the Somme and the huge medical and human impact of wounding during and beyond World War I. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.science museum.org.uk. Exhibition Rd, SW7 2DD. T: 0870870 4868. F4. Station: South Kensington.

Sir John Soane’s Museum The architect Soane’s former home, a Regency townhouse left to the nation in 1837 as a public museum, now houses a gem of a collection including Hogarth paintings, his own architectural drawings and antiquities from around the world. To 8 Oct: ‘The Cloud-Capped Towers’: Shakespeare in Soane’s Architectural Imagination. Unique display to mark the 400th anniversary of Shakespeare’s death examines the influence the playwright had on the life and work of Soane. To 4 Mar: Below Stairs. Four contemporary designers display works inside the newly restored Regency kitchens. Museum tours daily; times vary. Tue-Sat 10am-5pm. Closed bank holidays. Admission free. www.soane.org. 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields, WC2A 3BP. T: 020-7405 2107. D8. Station: Holborn.

Want to feel the weight of the Championships trophies? Interested in watching an interactive ghost of John McEnroe? Keen to cast your eyes over Andy Murray’s title-winning whites? Then step inside the multi-dimensional journey that is Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum. With complimentary audio guides in 10 languages, learn about the history of the sport, see the Championship trophies, and the amazing new Virtual Reality experience. You may also take the behind the scenes tour of the grounds and explore the home of tennis, including Centre Court, for a truly inspirational visit. Supported by

New Virtual Reality experience Open Daily: 10:00am until 5:30pm Nearest Underground: Southﬁelds The Museum Building, The All England Lawn Tennis & Croquet Club, Church Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 5AE

T: 020 8946 6131 wimbledon.com/museum

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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Victoria and Albert Museum

Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum & Tours

The Courtauld Gallery

Commonly called the V&A, this museum houses a collection of fine and applied arts. To 6 Nov: Engineering the World: Ove Arup and the Philosophy of Total Design. Part of the museum’s excellent Engineering Season, this exhibition explores the work of one of the 20th century’s most influential engineers, Ove Arup. To 26 Feb: You Say You Want a Revolution: Records & Rebels 1966-1970. Explore the significance of the late 1960s through music, fashion, film, design and political activism. To 12 Mar: Undressed: A Brief History of Underwear. Photographs, film, advertisements and packaging revealing the changing concepts of the ideal body. Daily 10am-5.45pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.vam.ac.uk. Cromwell Rd, SW7 2RL. T: 020-7942 2000. F4/5. Station: South Kensington.

The original trophies, art, fashions and donations from the current champions are on display. Audio guides in 10 languages make this enjoyable for all. Look out for the ghost of John McEnroe and the new virtual reality experience taking you to the action on Centre Court. Award-winning behind-the-scenes tours of the grounds reveal many of the secrets of the tournament. To 20 Mar: Reinventing the Racket. Iconic and unusual rackets, featuring the old, the new and the entirely unique. Daily 10am-5pm. Museum £13, child £8; museum and tour £24, child £15. www.wimbledon.com/ museum. All England Lawn Tennis Club, Church Rd, SW19 5AE. T: 020-8946 6131. Off map. Station: Southfields then bus 493 or a 12-minute walk.

Important European art collection. From 20 Oct: Rodin & Dance: The Essence of Movement. Explore Rodin’s fascination with dance and acrobatic poses. Daily 10am-6pm. Adult £9; child free. www.courtauld.ac.uk. Somerset House, Strand, WC2R 0RN. T: 020-7848 2526. E8. Station: Embankment.

The former Wallace family home displays its collection of Rococo art. The Great Gallery houses some of the greatest masterpieces of painting, including works by Velázquez and Rubens. To 27 Nov: The Middle – Tom Ellis. The British artist’s enigmatic figurative paintings are paired with self-made furniture. Daily 10am-5pm. Admission free. www.wallacecollection.org. Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1U 3BN. T: 020-7563 9500. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Wellcome Collection Wellcome Trust’s public venue houses more than 1,500 fascinating artefacts relating to health and the body, including permanent exhibits Medicine Now and Medicine Man. Regular talks and tours. To 16 Oct: States of Mind: Tracing the Edges of Consciousness. Explore our understanding of the conscious experience from different perspectives. To 15 Jan: Bedlam: The Asylum and Beyond. Uncover diverse and often contradictory ideas surrounding mental illness. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-10pm; Sun 11am-6pm. Admission free. www.wellcome collection.org. 183 Euston Rd, NW1 2BE. T: 0207611 2222. C7. Station: Euston.

Culture clash

England’s first public art gallery, founded in 1811, holds one of the finest collections of Old Masters. The building was designed by Sir John Soane. From 12 Oct: Adriaen van de Velde: Dutch Master of Landscape. The first exhibition devoted to the Dutch painter and draughtsman. To 5 Mar: Dutch and Flemish Masterpieces. Delve into van Dyck, Dou, Rubens and Rembrandt. Tue-Fri 10am-5pm; Sat-Sun 11amThere are over 850 art 5pm; closed bank holidays. Adult galleries in London that offer free Barbican Art Gallery £7; child free; charges for special admission Arts venue with galleries and cinemas. exhibitions. www.dulwichpicture From 13 Oct: The Vulgar: Fashion gallery.org.uk. Gallery Rd, SE21 7AD. Redefined. Explores the idea of taste in T: 020-8693 5354. Off map. Station: West Dulwich/North Dulwich. fashion, from the Renaissance to today (p. 33). To 16 Oct: Designing for a Living City. Guildhall Art Gallery Exhibition tracing the controversial design of a residential development. To 8 Jan: Bedwyr Williams: Art from 1670 to the present day. At the new The Gulch. Explore a succession of surreal and Heritage Gallery, you can see Shakespeare’s theatrically staged scenes on a journey conjured First Folio. To 20 Nov: Visscher Redrawn: 1616-2016. See Visscher’s famous image of medieval London by an exciting and innovative artist. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. Mon-Sat alongside Robin Reynolds’ modern version. To 22 Jan: Victorians Decoded: Art and Telegraphy. 9am-11pm; Sun noon-11pm. www.barbican.org.uk. Discover the impact of telegraphy on the Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 artistic imagination in the 19th century. Mon4141. D10. Station: Barbican. Sat 10am-5pm; Sun noon-4pm. Admission free; Ben Uri Gallery charges for special exhibitions. www.cityoflondon. The London Jewish Museum of Art houses more than gov.uk. Guildhall Yard, off Gresham St, EC2V 5AE. 1,000 works. To 16 Dec: Yalta 1945. Works by Vitaly T: 020-7332 3700. D10. Station: St Paul’s. Komar and Alexander Melamid. Mon 1pm-5.30pm; ICA (Institute of Contemporary Arts) Tue-Fri 10am-5.30pm; Sat & Sun 11am-5pm. Admission free. www.benuri.org.uk. 108a Boundary Galleries, a book shop, a bar and cinemas. To 13 Nov: James Richards: Requests and Antisongs. Rd, off Abbey Rd, NW8 0RH. T: 020-7604 3991. Explores collages, installations and sound work. Off map. Station: Kilburn High Road. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Adult £1; child free. www.ica.org.uk. The Mall, SW1Y 5AH. T: 020-7930 3647. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Galleries

See some of the world’s oldest art side by side with striking contemporary pieces in South Africa: The Art of a Nation (from 27 Oct; p. 33) at The British Museum. Tracing 100,000 years of history, this remarkable exhibition explores the beginnings of artistic thought and early sculpture and displays fascinating examples of colonial art from the 17th century onwards. Discover how artists responded to segregation and apartheid in the 20th century, and investigate how the post-apartheid era has impacted the nation’s creative community.

The National Gallery One of the world’s great galleries, with works by masters from Monet to Leonardo da Vinci. From 12 Oct: Beyond Caravaggio. Explore the influence of one of art’s most revolutionary figures (p. 34). Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri 10am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.nationalgallery.org.uk. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. T: 020-7747 2885. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

National Portrait Gallery British history told through portraiture. To 23 Oct: William Eggleston Portraits. Works by the American photographer from the 1960s. Sat-Wed 10am-6pm; Thur & Fri 10am-9pm (regular Late Shift special events). Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.npg.org.uk. St Martin’s Place, WC2H 0HE. T: 020-7312 2463. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Newport Street Gallery Damien Hirst’s huge new extensive gallery. To 16 Oct: Now. Works by Jeff Koons spanning 35 years. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.newportstreetgallery.com. Newport St, SE11 6AJ. T: 020- 3141 9320. G8. Station: Vauxhall/Lambeth North.

Esther Mahlangu’s bmw art car bonnet © Esther Mahlangu/BMW Group Archives

The Wallace Collection

Dulwich Picture Gallery

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ESTHER MAHLANGU’S BMW ART CAR BONNET © ESTHER MAHLANGU/BMW GROUP ARCHIVES

The Photographers’ Gallery London’s largest gallery devoted to photography. From 7 Oct: Feminist Avant-Garde of the 1970s. See 150 works that explore the issue of gender inequality. Mon-Wed & Fri-Sat 10am-6pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. Admission free before noon, then £3. www.thephotographers gallery.org.uk. 16-18 Ramillies St, W1F 7LW. T: 020-7087 9300. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Queen’s Gallery Treasures from the Royal Collection. To 9 Oct: Maria Merian’s Butterflies. Beautiful works by the artist and entomologist more than 300 years after they were made. To 9 Oct: Scottish Artists 1750-1900: From Caledonia to the Continent. More than 80 artworks collected by monarchs since George III. Daily 10am-5.30pm (closed 10 Oct-3 Nov). Adult £10.30; child £5.30. www.royalcollection.org.uk. Buckingham Palace, SW1A 1AA. T: 0303-123 7301. F7. Station: Green Park/Hyde Park Corner.

Royal Academy of Arts Eighteenth-century apartments with RA Collection works in all media, including architecture. To 2 Jan: Abstract Expressionism. Look at an unparalleled period in American art. Fri 10am-10pm; Sat-Thur 10am-6pm; check for regular special events and free lunchtime concerts. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.royalacademy.org.uk. 6 Burlington Gardens, Piccadilly, W1J 0BD. T: 0207300 8000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Green Park.

Saatchi Gallery Groundbreaking contemporary art in a Georgian building. 1-29 Oct: Champagne Life. A look at gender disparity. Daily 10am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.saatchi-gallery.co.uk. Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Rd, SW3 4RY. T: 0207811 3070. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Serpentine Gallery A respected arts space in Kensington Gardens. To 9 Oct: Serpentine Pavilion and Summer Houses. This year’s temporary structure is designed by Bjarke Ingels Group. Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Admission free. www.serpentine galleries.org. Kensington Gardens, W2 3XA. T: 020-7402 6075. E4. Station: South Kensington.

Tate Britain Traditional and contemporary British art. From 26 Oct: Paul Nash. A lifetime’s work by the famous artist, including his war work (p. 32). Daily 9.45am-6pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Millbank, SW1P 4RG. T: 020-7887 8888. G8. Station: Pimlico.

Tate Modern Modern art in the transformed Power Station. To 30 Oct: Georgia O’Keeffe. This exhibition includes the most expensive painting by a female artist sold at auction. Sun-Thur 10am-6pm; Fri & Sat 10am-10pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.tate.org.uk. Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7887 8888. E9. Station: Southwark.

Whitechapel Gallery Influential East End gallery housing modern art. Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun 11am-6pm; Thur 11am-9pm. Admission free; charges for special exhibitions. www.whitechapel.org. 77-82 Whitechapel High St, E1 7QX. T: 020-7522 7888. Off map. Station: Aldgate East. www.wheretraveler.com 37

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ENTERTAINMENT | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this picture: The Merchant of Venice; Julius Caesar; The Merchant of Venice Inset: The Merchant of Venice

Shaking up Shakespeare Fans of Shakespeare are in for a treat this month as his plays are performed at major venues across London. In the 16th century, the Bard’s plays were bought to life by The Lord Chamberlain’s Men, and the acting group was all just that – men. Today, directors are turning the roles on their head and having women play traditionally male parts, which is fitting in a country that has just welcomed Theresa May as its second female prime minister. King Lear comes to The Old Vic (from 25 Oct; p. 43) – it is directed by the award-winning Deborah Warner and stars Glenda Jackson as Lear. The former BAFTA, Golden Globe and Academy Award-winning actress, who became a Labour politician in 1992, is returning to the stage, alongside Celia Imrie and Jane Horrocks as the daughters who must prove their love for Lear. If you can cope with another tragedy, catch the Donmar Warehouse’s Julius Caesar (from 27 Oct; p. 43) in its new 420-seat theatre, Donmar at King’s Cross Theatre. You have the Donmar’s artistic director Josie Rourke

to thank in part for ensuring this production is played by an all-female cast. The casting is down to the director, Phyllida Lloyd, who also chose an all-female cast for her 2012 version of the play. Lloyd says: ‘These plays work best with a single gender. It allows you to see Shakespeare’s purpose – how social structures squeeze men and women into various patterns of behaviour that have little to do with who they actually are as people. It allows us to go beyond gender and explore our common humanity.’ The play is part of a Shakespeare trilogy, which includes The Tempest last month and Henry IV in November. On certain days you can watch all three (19, 22 & 26 Nov and 3, 10 & 17 Dec). While Shakespeare’s Globe recently put on all-male performances of Twelfth Night and

Richard III, this month’s The Merchant of Venice (4-15 Oct; p. 43) is not all-female – but the venue has recently appointed its first female artistic director, Emma Rice. Talking about her new role in an interview with The Guardian, Rice said: ‘If anyone bended gender, it was William Shakespeare. As someone who has got custody of this canon for a while, I think it is quite interesting to say, yes, it is a target. How can we get the female voices through? How can we change the mould? I am aiming to get a much greater proportion of women on the stage, but you can’t make it happen in a heartbeat.’ The play is a revival of the Globe’s 2015 version, and the comedy has since been on a national and international tour. Now it’s back, tickets are selling fast – so snap them up before you’re too late.

the merchant of venice images courtesy of shakespeare’s globe; julius caesar © Helen Maybanks

As the UK welcomes a new female prime minister, women are taking the lead on stage, too, with a season of Shakespeare plays that is coming to London, says Sarah Riches

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ENTERTAINMENT T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73. Please check for complete listings. TKTS booth has discounted tickets for West End shows (Leicester Square Gardens, WC2H 0AP)

A Tony Award-winning musical about young love, set on the mean streets of Washington Heights in New York. Mon-Tue & Thur-Fri 8pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 8.30pm; Sun 6pm. Tickets £22.50£59.50. www.intheheightslondon.com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, King’s Cross, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

The Book of Mormon

The hit Olivier Award-winning story of Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons dramatises the formation, success and eventual break-up of the 1960s rock ‘n’ roll group. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Tue & Sat 3pm; Sun 5pm. Tickets £24.50-£114. www.jerseyboyslondon.com. Piccadilly Theatre, 16 Denman St, W1D 7DY. T: 0844-871 7630. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

This controversial satire, from the writers of television’s South Park, follows the exploits of two hapless missionaries from the Church of Latter Day Saints. Winner of four Olivier Awards, including best new musical. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (also 2.30pm 28 Oct). Tickets £27.50-£200. www.bookofmormonlondon.com. Prince of Wales Theatre, Coventry St, W1D 6AS. T: 0844-482 5110. E7. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.

Charlie and the Chocolate Factory

Fighting fit

The legendary boxer Muhammad Ali died in June, so it seems an apt time to remember ‘The Greatest’. One Night in Miami... at the Donmar Warehouse (from 6 Oct; p. 43) examines his early career. The play is a fictional account of the night in 1964 when 22-year-old Ali – then known as Cassius Clay – won the world heavyweight title in Miami. He celebrates his win in his hotel room with friends – footballer Jim Brown, singer Sam Cooke and activist Malcolm X – as the Civil Rights movement stirs outside.

MUSICALS & PERFORMANCES Aladdin This Broadway and West End hit has a stellar cast led by director and choreographer Casey Nicholaw (The Book of Mormon). Expect tunes such as A Whole New World and Friend Like Me with lyrics by Tim Rice and a real magic carpet. Just how do they do that (p. 42)? Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.25-£99.75. www.aladdinthemusical.co.uk. Prince Edward Theatre, Old Compton St, W1D 4HS. T: 0844482 5151. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Beautiful – The Carole King Musical Musical about the early life and career of the award-winning singer-songwriter, who wrote a string of hits for Aretha Franklin, The Monkees, The Drifters and The Shirelles among others. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Tue, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£127.50. www.beautifulmusical.co.uk. Aldwych Theatre, 49 Aldwych, WC2B 4DF. T: 0845-200 7981. E8. Station: Covent Garden/ Holborn/Charing Cross.

In the Heights

Soul singer Beverley Knight wows from start to finish as she sings all of Whitney Houston’s hits in this musical about a singer who falls in love with her bodyguard. You’ll be dancing in your seat by the end of it! Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £27.50-£95. www.dominiontheatre.com. Dominion Theatre, 268-269 Tottenham Court Rd, W1T 7AQ. T: 0845-200 7982. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

A musical version of Roald Dahl’s children’s tale about an ordinary boy and an extraordinary confectioner. A chocolate garden, an army of squirrels and the curiously peculiar OompaLoompas must be seen to be believed. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£94. www.charlieandthechocolatefactory.com. Theatre Royal Drury Lane, Catherine St, WC2B 5JF. T: 0844858 8877. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Funny Girl To 8 Oct: When a true story spawns a book, Broadway musical, film and West End show, you know it’s going to be good. The show tells the true story about Fanny, a music hall singer who finds fame on Broadway before falling in love with gambler Nicky. The show features well-known songs such as Don’t Rain on My Parade.. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £30.75-£125. www.funnygirlthemusical. co.uk. Savoy Theatre, Strand, WC2R 0ET. T: 0844871 7687. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Go-Between To 15 Oct: Michael Crawford Phantom of the Opera, The Wizard of Oz) (Phantom stars in this musical based on LP Hartley’s 1953 novel about an elderly man who unintentionally delves into his past. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£87.50. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Apollo Theatre, 31 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0330-333 4809. E7. Piccadilly Circus.

Guys and Dolls Fifties musical about a gambler and his nightclub-singer fiancée, with well-known numbers including Sit Down You’re Rocking the Boat and My Time of Day. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17-£97. www.phoenixtheatre london.co.uk. Phoenix Theatre, 110 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0JP. T: 0843-316 1082. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Jersey Boys

Kinky Boots Fun musical about a shoe factory which reinvigorates its business after its new owner decides to produce knee-high boots for drag queens. With music by Cyndi Lauper. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £19.50-£125. www.kinkybootsthemusical.co.uk. Adelphi Theatre, 409-412 Strand, WC2R 0NS. T: 0844579 0094. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Lazarus From 25 Oct: This David Bowie musical is a sequel to the 1976 film The Man Who Fell to Earth, in which David Bowie starred as Thomas Newton. Previously off-Broadway, it features Bowie hits along with three new songs performed by a live seven-piece band on stage. Please check for times and prices. www.kingscrosstheatre.com. King’s Cross Theatre, Corner of King’s Boulevard and Goods Way, N1C 4UR. T: 0844-871 7604. Off map. Station: King’s Cross.

Les Misérables The world’s longest-running musical, adapted from Victor Hugo’s classic novel, is set in post-revolutionary France. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £12.50-£127.25. www.lesmis.com. Queen’s Theatre, 51 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6BA. T: 0844-482 5160. D8. Station: Leicester Square/ Piccadilly Circus.

Disney’s The Lion King Wonderful adaptation of the popular Disney film with ingenious costumes and inventive puppetry (p. 44). Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30pm. Tickets £40.20-£127.70. www.thelionking. co.uk. Lyceum Theatre, 21 Wellington St, WC2E 7RQ. T: 0844-871 3000. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Fall under the spell of Wicked the Musical (p. 42)

ONE NIGHT IN MIAMI... COURTESY OF DONMAR WAREHOUSE; WITCH COURTESY OF WICKED

The Bodyguard

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ENTERTAINMENT Mamma Mia! A tribute to the popular music of ABBA, with a feel-good story set on a Greek island. MonSat 7.45pm; Thur & Sat 3pm (also 3pm 25 Oct). Tickets £15-£97.50. www.mamma-mia.com. Novello, Aldwych, WC2B 4LD. T: 0844-482 5115. E8. Station: Covent Garden/Temple.

Matilda the Musical Fantastic show based on Roald Dahl’s children’s book about a girl with magic powers. Tue 7pm; Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm; Sun 3pm. Tickets £20-£122.50. www.matildathemusical.com. Cambridge Theatre, 32-34 Earlham St, WC2 9HU. T: 0844-412 4652. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Motown the Musical Feel-good musical based on the story of Motown Records, which launched the careers of Diana Ross and the Supremes, Michael Jackson, Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder and The Temptations. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Tickets £19.50-£145. www.shaftesburytheatre.com. Shaftesbury Theatre, 210 Shaftesbury Avenue, WC2H 8DP. T: 020-7379 5399. D8. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Holborn. Long-running Gothic drama in which a mysterious masked man haunts the Paris Opera House. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £21.50-£95. www.thephantomoftheopera.com. Her Majesty’s Theatre, 57 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QL. T: 0844-412 2707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

School of Rock: The Musical From 24 Oct: Andrew Lloyd Webber’s latest musical, based on the film of the same name, was a hit on Broadway. Mon-Sat 7.30pm & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£85. www.schoolofrockthemusical.com. New London Theatre, 166 Drury Lane, WC2B 5PF. T: 020-7452 3000. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Stomp

Moving London Dance Umbrella (7-22 Oct; p. 47) is a festival that brings together international choreographers to create original performances. Artistic director Emma Gladstone says: ‘British dance is changing and Dance Umbrella is leading the change with performances led by ideas and the body rather than text and narrative. What was once seen as less accessible than theatre now speaks to a wider audience.’ The event attracts names such as Dimitris Papaioannou, the man behind the 2004 Athens Olympics opening ceremony. Highlights include Unknown Pleasures at Sadler’s Wells (7-8 Oct) where choreographers remain anonymous, liberating audiences from expectations. Use My Body While It’s Still Young at The Place (19-20 Oct) features older performers to challenge ideas about ageing.

Thriller Live

Breakfast at Tiffany’s

An award-winning fusion of theatre, dance, comedy and rhythmic percussion. Mon & Thur-Sat 8pm; Thur & Sat-Sun 3pm; Sun 6pm; occasional Weds. Tickets £26-£57.50. www.stomplondon. co.uk. Ambassadors Theatre, West St, WC2H 9ND. T: 020-7395 5405. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Non-stop songs and dance celebrate Michael Jackson’s career. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 4pm & 8pm; Sun 3.30pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £29.50-£90.50. www.thrillerlive.com. Lyric, 29 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7ES. T: 0844-482 9674. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Sunny Afternoon

Wicked the Musical

The Comedy about a Bank Robbery

The brilliant back story of the witches of Oz with the hit tunes Defying Gravity and Popular. It tells the untold story of the friendship between two girls who first meet as sorcery students at Shiz University: the blonde and very popular Glinda and a misunderstood green girl named Elphaba (p. 40). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £17.50-£125. www.wickedthemusical. co.uk. Apollo Victoria Theatre, 17 Wilton Rd, SW1V 1LG. T: 0844-871 3001. F7. Station: Victoria.

A hilarious play about six incompetent crooks desperate to get hold of a diamond, from the team behind The Play That Goes Wrong. Tue-Fri 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£49.50. www.thecomedyaboutabank robbery.com. The Criterion Theatre, 218-223 Piccadilly, W1V 9LB. T: 0844-815 6131. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Musical about the rise to stardom of The Kinks. Mon & Wed-Sat 7.30pm; Wed, Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£92.50. www.sunnyafternoonthe musical.com. Harold Pinter Theatre, Panton St, SW1Y 4DN. T: 0844-871 7622. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Three Penny Opera To 1 Oct: Musical set

at the time of the Queen’s coronation. Check for times. Tickets £15-£50. www.national theatre.org.uk. National Theatre, South Bank, SE1 9PX. T: 020-7452 3000. E8. Station: Waterloo.

Have an Arabian night with the popular musical Aladdin (p. 40)

PLAYS The Alchemist To 1 Oct: A master leaves his house in the hands of his capable butler, but is his butler as trustworthy as he thinks? This fast-paced farce was first performed in 1610. Times vary. Tickets £10-£55. www.barbican. org.uk. Barbican Centre, Silk St, EC2Y 8DS. T: 020-7638 8891. C10. Station: Barbican.

Truman Capote’s classic tale of Holly Golightly becomes a stage play with music, starring the singer Pixie Lott as Holly. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 3pm. Tickets £15-£98. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time Adaptation of Mark Haddon’s novel about a boy with learning difficulties who uncovers more than expected when investigating a mystery. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £18-£92.50. www.curiousonstage.com. Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6AR. T: 0844-482 5130. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus/Leicester Square.

The Entertainer Drama about a disillusioned middle-aged man starring Kenneth Branagh as Archie Rice, a failing music hall performer, who is discontented with his bickering family, weak marriage and his daughter’s broken engagement. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£95. www.nimaxtheatres.com. Garrick Theatre, 2 Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0HH. T: 0844-482 9673. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

JÉRÔME BEL © JOSEFINA TOMMASI; ALADDIN IMAGE COURTESY OF ALADDIN

The Phantom of the Opera

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ENTERTAINMENT Faulty Towers: The Dining Experience

No Man’s Land

The Play That Goes Wrong

Seventies-style dining and interactive comedy combine in this theatrical experience based on the cult TV comedy. Thur-Sat 7pm; Sat 1pm; Sun 1pm & 6pm. To 2 Oct tickets £55-£64; from 6 Oct tickets £59-£69. www.faultytowers-uk.com. The Torquay Suite Theatre, Amba Hotel Charing Cross, Strand, WC2N 5HX. T: 0845-154 4145. E8. Station: Charing Cross. Kingsway Hall Hotel, 66 Great Queen St, WC2B 5BX. D8. Station: Holborn.

Ian McKellen and Patrick Stewart reunite in this slow-moving comical drama about a distinguished poet in his sixties who invites a poet into his home. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £10-£150. www.wyndhamstheatre.co.uk. Wyndham’s Theatre, Charing Cross Rd, WC2H 0DA. T: 0844482 5120. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Slapstick comedy about a drama society staging a murder mystery. Tue-Sat 7.30pm; Sat 2.30pm & 7.30pm; Sun 3pm & 7pm. Tickets £20-£67.50. www.theplaythatgoeswrong.com. Duchess Theatre, 3-5 Catherine St, WC2B 5LA. T: 0844482 9672. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

One Night in Miami...

From 21 Oct: A Broadway hit based on a true story about conjoined twins (p. 46). 3pm & 7.30pm. Tickets £14-£25. www.southwarkplayhouse.co.uk. Southwark Playhouse, 77-85 Newington Causeway, SE1 6BD. T: 020-7407 0234. Off map. Station: Elephant and Castle.

From 6 Oct: A play about boxer Muhammad

Girls To 29 Oct: Inspired by Boko

Haram’s violent uprising, Theresa Ikoko wrote this play to give a voice to girls abducted in Nigeria and around the world in conflict zones. When three best friends are kidnapped from home their world is turned upside down. MonSat 7.15pm; Thur & Sat 3pm. Please check for prices. www.sohotheatre.com. Soho Theatre, 21 Dean St, W1D 3NE. T: 020-7478 0100. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Ali’s early career (p. 40). Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. £7.50-£40. www.donmarwarehouse.com. Donmar Warehouse, 41 Earlham St, WC2H 9LX. T: 0844-871 7624. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Side Show

Good Canary To 15 Oct: Oscar-nominee John Malkovich makes his London theatre directing debut in this play about an author on the cusp of a multi-million-dollar publishing deal which threatens his wife’s mental health. Please check for times. Tickets £8-£40. www.rosetheatre kingston.org. 24-26 High St, Kingston, KT1 1HL. T: 020-8174 0090. Off map. Station: Kingston.

King Lear From 25 Oct: William Shakespeare’s classic tragedy about a regretful king, who is played here by Glenda Jackson, a former UK politician turned BAFTA, Golden Globe and Academy Award-winning actress (p. 38). MonSat 7.30pm; Wed & Sat 2.30pm (no matinee 26 & 29 Oct). Tickets £12 £65. www.oldvic theatre.com. The Old Vic, The Cut, SE1 8NB. T: 0844-871 7628. F9. Station: Waterloo.

The Libertine Dominic Cooper plays the notorious Earl of Rochester, a charismatic poet and playwright with a legendary appetite for excess. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Thur & Sat 2.30pm. Tickets £15-£97.50. www.trh.co.uk. Theatre Royal Haymarket, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HT. T: 020-7930 8800. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Julius Caesar From 27 Oct: William Shakespeare’s tragedy, played by an all-female cast and directed by Phyllida Lloyd (p. 38). Check for times and prices. www.donmaratkingscross.com. Donmar at King’s Cross, King’s Boulevard, N1C 4BU. T: 0844871 7624. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Merchant of Venice 4-15 Oct: A comedy about a merchant who lends

cash to his friend Bassanio so he can propose to the wealthy Portia. But to do so, he takes out a loan from Shylock (p. 38). Tickets £5-£45. Please check for times. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Mousetrap A murderer strikes at a party in Agatha Christie’s long-running whodunnit. The play is known for the twist at the end, which the audience is asked not to reveal. Mon-Sat 7.30pm; Tue 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £18.50-£67.50. www.the-mousetrap.co.uk. St Martin’s Theatre, West St, WC2H 9NZ. T: 0844499 1515. D7. Station: Leicester Square. www.wheretraveler.com 43

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ENTERTAINMENT

Top Pick

A high score Disney’s Broadway Hits will grace the stage of the Royal Albert Hall for one night only (23 Oct; p. 45). The night will feature songs from The Lion King, Aladdin, Mary Poppins and Beauty and the Beast as well as Tarzan, The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Aida. The tunes will be performed by Broadway singers and West End stars with the BBC Concert Orchestra, conducted by Keith Lockhart. Lucy Noble, the hall’s events director, says: ‘For the first time in Europe, audiences can enjoy all of Disney’s Broadway hits in one incredible concert, in the company of a world-class symphony orchestra and a galaxy of stars, led by the legendary composer Alan Menken.’

To 1 Oct: Love wasn’t easy,

even back in William Shakespeare’s time. This fun production, which is set in the 21st century, follows an elopement. 2.30pm & 8pm. Tickets £10-£62. www.shakespearesglobe.com. Sam Wanamaker Theatre, Shakespeare’s Globe, 21 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DT. T: 020-7401 9919. E10. Station: Blackfriars.

The Woman in Black A spooky story (prepare to scream) adapted from Susan Hill’s novel, about a lawyer who visits a remote house to settle affairs after a woman’s death. Tue-Sat 8pm; Tue & Thur 3pm; Sat 4pm. Tickets £19.50-£60. www.thewomaninblack.com. Fortune Theatre, Russell St, WC2B 5HH. T: 0844871 7626. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

DANCE Sadler’s Wells From 3 Oct: Out of Asia 2. A range of inspiring works by five dance companies from China and Taiwan and four independent choreographers from China, Japan, Indonesia and India. Including the TAO Dance Theatre’s minimalist new work 8, Chinese dancer and choreographer Yang Liping’s new work based on the classical story Farewell My Concubine, and Cloud Gate 2 performing a triple bill showcasing the next generation of dance makers from Taiwan. Please check for times and prices. www.sadlerswells.com. Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Rosebery Avenue, EC1R 4TN. T: 020-7863 8000. Off map. Station: Angel.

OPERA London Coliseum Home to the English National Opera. To 26 Oct: Don Giovanni. Opera combining comedy and tragedy, following Giovanni’s final 24 hours as he lusts his way towards his dramatic demise. Filled with Mozart’s music, it includes the famous Catalogue aria detailing Giovanni’s long list of lovers. 7pm. Tickets £85-£105. www.eno.org. 33 St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4ES. T: 020-7845 9300. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

CONCERTS: CLASSICAL Cadogan Hall Classical events hall. 2 Oct: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra.. See the American author, storyteller and radio personality Garrison Keillor in concert. 7pm. Tickets £15-£40. 9 Oct: Orion Orchestra.. Ukrainian pianist Natacha Kudritskaya performs in Rachmaninov’s Piano Concerto No. 2, followed by Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony. 21 Oct: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra and City of London Choir. www.cadogan hall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. G6. Station: Sloane Square.

Royal Albert Hall London’s premiere music hall and home to the annual BBC Proms. 1 Oct: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra. A celebration of the film composer John Williams. 7.30pm. Tickets £20 (standing). 29 Oct: Raymond Gubbay Presents Carmina Burana. Hear 400 voices in harmony. www.royalalbert hall.com. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. G4. South Kensington.

St James’s Piccadilly This 1676 church has free recitals every Mon, Wed & Fri at 1.10pm and concerts from 7.30pm. 8 Oct: Central Band of the Royal British Legion. Listen to the band, which was formed 71 years ago. www.sjp. org.uk. St James’s Piccadilly, 197 Piccadilly, W1J 9LL. T: 020-7381 0441. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

St Martin-in-the-Fields Programme of lunchtime and evening concerts and recitals at this landmark church. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-the-Fields Church, Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1100. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Have a wild night out at the award-winning The Lion King (p. 40)

ROYAL ALBERT HALL © PAUL SANDERS; THE LION KING © DISNEY

The Two Gentlemen of Verona

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ROYAL ALBERT HALL © PAUL SANDERS; THE LION KING © DISNEY

CONCERTS: POP, JAZZ & WORLD Cadogan Hall

SEEN BY OVER 7 MILLION THEATREGOERS WORLDWIDE

THE ORIGINAL. LIVE ON STAGE.

31 Oct: The Sensational 60’s Experience. Featuring

Herman’s Hermits, Chris Farlowe, New Amen Corner, The Swinging Blue Jeans, The Fortunes and The Ivy League. 7.30pm. Tickets £29.50. www.cadoganhall.com. 5 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9DQ. T: 020-7730 4500. F6. Station: Sloane Square.

The Jazz Café This live music and club specialises in jazz and funk. 8 Oct: Tribute to Otis Redding. Soul. 7pm. Tickets £12. www.thejazzcafelondon.com. 5 Parkway, NW1 7PG. T: 0844-847 2514. Off map. Station: Camden Town.

‘THE MOST BRILLIANTLY EFFECTIVE

SPINE-CHILLER

YOU WILL EVER ENCOUNTER’ DAILY TELEGRAPH

The O2 arena Enormous venue for live music. 7 Oct: Jean-Michel Jarre. The godfather of electronic music performs a live show for the first time in six years. 6.30pm. 11, 12, 14 & 15 Oct: Justin Bieber. The Canadian pop legend sings on his Purpose World tour. Check for prices. www.theo2.co.uk. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0AX. T: 0844-856 0202. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club London’s most famous jazz venue. 10-11 Oct: Sarah Jane Morris and Antonio Forcione Quintet. 16 Oct: Natalie Williams Soul Family. Hear some of the UK’s best R&B, soul and jazz musicians. 17-19 Oct: Dee Dee Bridgewater in Concert. One of today’s leading female jazz vocal stars, Bridgewater has worked with all the great instrumentalists, counting Sonny Rollins, Dizzy Gillespie, Dexter Gordon, Max Roach and Roland Kirk among her list of past collaborators. 26 Oct: Georgie Fame with the Guy Barker Big Band. Swinging soul-jazz and classic R&B. www.ronniescotts.co.uk. Ronnie Scott’s Jazz Club, 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Royal Albert Hall 2 Oct: Live Music Brunch – The Hot Club of Jupiter. Gypsy swing and hot jazz. 8 Oct: National Brass Band Championships. 8 Oct: Wam Bam Club. Cabaret. 18 Oct: Best of Broadway. Featuring

favourite show tunes and music from some of the finest shows on Broadway and in the West End. 23 Oct: Disney’s Broadway Hits. Live in concert (p. 44). Please check for times and prices. www.royalalbert hall.com. Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. F4. Station: South Kensington.

SUSAN HILL’S

CHILDREN & FAMILIES Brain Waves: Shake, Rattle and Roll To 2 Oct: Scientists from Birkbeck University’s Baby Lab have teamed up with the children’s theatre director Sarah Argent to create a lively show inspired by their latest research. Times vary. Tickets £9. www.polkatheatre.com. Polka Theatre, 240 The Broadway, SW19 1SB. T: 020-8543 4888. Off map. Station: Wimbledon.

Emily Rising One morning Emily wakes up to realise her feet can’t touch the ground. Imagine a life where you sleep upside down on the ceiling and fly above the playground! But this is just the start of Emily’s adventures. For age seven and above. Adult £12; child £10. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

ADAPTED BY

STEPHEN MALLATRATT

FORTUNE THEATRE

0844 871 7626

thewomaninblack.com

Calls cost 7p per minute, plus your phone company’s access charge

Covent Garden

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ENTERTAINMENT Jason and the Argonauts To 21 Oct: A boy banished as a baby is now back to claim his rightful throne. Along the way he faces some fearsome challenges – but can he overcome them? Times vary. Tickets £10. www.unicorntheatre.com. Unicorn Theatre, 147 Tooley St, SE1 2HZ. T: 020-7645 0560. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Let’s Fly A girl who knows how to fly has some fun with her secret power. Suitable for two to six year olds. Adult £10; child £8. Please check for times. www.littleangeltheatre.com. Little Angel Theatre, 14 Dagmar Passage, N1 2DN. T: 020-7226 1787. Off map. Station: Angel.

Not many musicals have plots that are as strong as the songs but the UK premiere of Side Show the Musical at the Southwark Playhouse (from 21 Oct; p. 43) manages to pull off both. It is based on a true story about conjoined twins who shoot to fame after appearing in a seedy 1920s side show. One relishes her fame while the other yearns for a quiet life – can they both fulfil their dreams? Expect great things – when the musical opened on Broadway in 1997, it was nominated for four Tony Awards.

Festivals & Events Africa on the Square 15 Oct: Get a taste of African culture in Trafalgar Square at this annual family-friendly event. Catch live music, DJs, dance performances and a fashion show on the main stage. Browse the market stalls and experience African cuisine at the food stands. Plus there are many free cultural activities for all the family. The procession on the square with African drumming and dancing takes place at 1.15pm. The event is part of Black History Month. Free. Noon-6pm. www.visitlondon.com. Trafalgar Square, WC2N 5DN. E7. Station: Charing Cross.

side show the musical courtesy of side show the musical

Two sides

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SIDE SHOW THE MUSICAL COURTESY OF SIDE SHOW THE MUSICAL

Bloomsbury Festival

YOU’LL FEEL THE EARTH MOVE!

19-23 Oct: Performances and live music celebrating Bloomsbury’s heritage. This year’s theme is ‘language’, explored through computer code and Morse code to the language of food, music and dance. Among the events taking place are a street party with a twist, breakfast talks, classical concerts, sound and visual art installations plus artistic, scientific and literary collaborations (p. 24). www.bloomsburyfestival.org.uk. Various locations. T: 07964-272219. E7. Station: Tottenham Court Road/Goodge Street.

London Bridge City Summer Festival To 31 Oct: Make the most of the last dregs of summer with theatre and live music in Hays Galleria every Wednesday and weekends, DJ sets on Fridays and Saturdays and live Brazilian bands outdoors every Sunday. The London Riviera serves summer cocktails, street food and craft beer. Daily 10am-10pm. Free. www.lbcsummer festival.com. Potters Fields Park between Tower Bridge and London Bridge and around The Scoop, SE1 2DB. E11. Station: London Bridge.

Dance Umbrella 7-22 Oct: International choreographers create

original performances in a packed programme of world, European and UK premieres (p. 42). Please check for times and prices. www.danceumbrella. co.uk. Various locations. T: 020-7257 9380.

FILM

Visit BeautifulinLondon.co.uk Call 0845 200 7981

BFI Southbank 1 Oct: Magical Girl. A jobless man treads a path

of crime to fulfil his daughter’s last wish, encountering some troubled characters along the way. 1 Oct: Dr Strangelove or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb. Peter Sellers plays three roles in Kubrick’s nightmarishly funny film. 1 Oct: The Shining. Stanley Kubrick’s adaptation of Stephen King’s novel is one of Jack Nicholson’s best roles. 2 Oct: La Belle et la Bête. Jean Cocteau brings his poetic flair and creative vision to the classic fairy tale. 2 Oct: A Clockwork Orange. Delinquent droogs go on a rampage of crime and violence in Stanley Kubrick’s cult classic. 2 Oct: Eyes Wide Shut. Stanley Kubrick’s final film stars Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman as a couple exploring other temptations. 2 Oct: Posse. Kirk Douglas directs and stars in this western. 3 Oct: The Bridge on the River Kwai. David Lean casts Alec Guinness as a British colonel in a Japanese prisonerof-war camp. 3 Oct: The Heroes of Telemark. War film following a resistance leader and his team as they attempt to sabotage the Nazis. 4 Oct: Seven Days in May. Burt Lancaster, Kirk Douglas and Ava Gardner star in this political conspiracy thriller. 4 Oct: Two Weeks in Another Town. This story of a struggling actor desperate for a comeback has a superb cast including Kirk Douglas, Edward G Robinson and Cyd Charisse. 29 Oct: Rocky Horror Picture Show/Shock Treatment. Live performers will shadow the on-screen action at a special showing of the cult musicals. www.org.uk. BFI Southbank, Belvedere Rd, SE1 8XT. T: 0207928 3232. E8. Station: Waterloo.

‘THE BEST WEST END MUSICAL FOR YEARS’ BBC RADIO 2

The Lounge at ODEON Whiteleys Watch films sitting on comfortable leather seats in the intimate screening rooms, while dining on an exclusive menu from chef Rowley Leigh. The food is served at your seat. Please check programme for films. www.odeon.co.uk/thelounge. Whiteleys of Bayswater, Queensway, W2 4YL. T: 0871-2244 007. Off map. Station: Queensway.

THE STORY OF FRANKIE VALLI & THE FOUR SEASONS 0844 871 7630

Piccadilly Theatre

ALSO PLAYING SUNDAYS

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shopping | THE GUIDE

The revolution starts now Hoovers, hand dryers and now hair dryers. These are the products that Dyson has revolutionised over the past few years, making Dyson a byword for innovation. It is hard to believe that the brand, which is a household name, does not have a store already. The company opened its first shop in Tokyo last year, and only recently launched the first UK one on the busiest shopping street in Europe: Oxford Street. James Dyson CBE is one of Britain’s greatest inventors, and his story is one of sheer determination. Back in 1978 he was frustrated by his vacuum’s diminishing performance, and found that the bag was causing the suction to drop. After 15 years and 5,127 prototypes, he finally created the G-Force, a bagless vacuum. But no one wanted to distribute the product, as it would mean that the replacement dust bag industry would be affected. So, after setting up his manufacturing company, Dyson was able to ‘hoover’ up the competition and become the market leader.

Most recently, the company launched its Dyson Supersonic hair dryer. Coming in at £299, it is a hard sell for a hair dryer; to encourage customers, the first 300 buyers will receive a leather storage case. You can book online a complimentary wet or dry blow dry and have your hair styled, and there are also drop-in appointments available. Jake Dyson, son of the inventor, says: ‘It is by picking up and experiencing Dyson products

that you are able to understand why and how we use new technology to improve performance. The Dyson Demos encourage people to be hands-on.’ Interacting with the products and quizzing the experts, much like in the fellow innovator Apple’s stores, is what the Dyson experience is all about. Test out the Dyson 360 Eye robot – the machine navigates space using its 360-degree vision system. Dyson also boasts the cleanest air on Oxford Street. Outside you are on one of the city’s most polluted streets, but inside you can see smoke-box demonstrations to help you visualise the power of the pollution-filter machine. With its spacious layout including prototypes and displays showing engineering components inside products, the space feels more like a gallery celebrating the inventor than it does a shop. So, if you know little about Dyson’s creations, this is a good place to start. 447 Oxford St, W1C 2PR. T: 020-7499 0999. www.dyson.co.uk

images © Mark Astle @ Proper Agency Ltd

As the great British brand Dyson opens its first store in the country, you can test out some of the most innovative products on the market, from super-powered hairdryers to robot vacuums, says Kohinoor Sahota

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T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. Most shops are open 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, Sun 11am-4pm, and some open late on Thur evening. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

MAJOR STORES Fenwick

Jewellery & Watches Links of London

Designer names and regular events. Mon-Wed; Fri & Sat 10am-7pm; Thur 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fenwick.co.uk. 63 New Bond St, W1S 1RQ. T: 020-7629 9161. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Jewellery and watches with high-quality designs. www.linksoflondon.com. 491 Oxford St, W1A 2LR. T: 020-7491 2371. D5. Station: Bond Street.

Fortnum & Mason

Jewellery, including charm bracelets that you can build. www.pandora.net. 257-259 Oxford St, W1C 2DD. T: 020-7407 2007. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

This British institution is famed for its food hall. Mon-Sat 10am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.fortnum andmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 0845300 1707. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Hamleys One of the world’s biggest toy shops. Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.hamleys.com. 188-196 Regent St, W1B 5BT. T: 0871-704 1977. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Harrods Edwardian food halls and luxury men and women’s fashion. Mon-Fri 10am-9pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.harrods.com. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Liberty The epitome of heritage combined with cuttingedge design. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.liberty.co.uk. Great Marlborough St, W1B 5AH. T: 020-7734 1234. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

House of Fraser Fashion, beauty, homeware and electrical goods. Mon-Fri 9.30am-10pm; Sun noon-6.30pm. www.houseoffraser.com. 318 Oxford St, W1C 1HF. T: 0844-800 3752. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

John Lewis Covetable fashion labels, homeware and electrical goods at this trusted department store. Mon-Wed; Fri 9.30am-8pm; Thur 9.30am-9pm; Sun noon-6pm. www.johnlewis.com. 300 Oxford St, W1A 1EX. T: 020-7629 7711. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Pandora

Wempe Big selection of luxury jewellery and watches. www.wempe.com. 43-44 New Bond St, W1S 2SA. T: 020-7493 2299. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Kid’s stores Nickelodeon Products inspired by the TV channel’s shows, including London-inspired toys such as stuffed toy guards. Mon-Fri 10am-10pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun noon-6pm. 1 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Specialist Stores Buckingham Palace Shop

Royal souvenirs, including a jewellery line created by Alex Monroe. Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm. www.royal collectionshop.co.uk. 7 Buckingham Palace Rd, SW1W 0PP. T: 020-7839 1377. E6. Station: Victoria.

John Bell & Croyden The ‘Queen’s chemist’ also has a walk-in clinic for vaccinations. www.johnbellcroyden.co.uk. Check for opening times. 50-54 Wigmore St, W1U 2AU. T: 020-7935 5555. D6. Station: Bond Street.

London Glassblowing Dazzling glass art plus workshops where you can create your own glass pieces. www.londonglass blowing.co.uk. 62-66 Bermondsey St, SE1 3UD. T: 020-7403 2800. F11. Station: London Bridge.

M&M’s World Pass Partner Sweet treats, including a giant M&M’s World and London-inspired chocolate souvenirs. Mon-Sat 10am-midnight; Sun noon-6pm. www.mmsworld.com. 1 Swiss Court, W1D 6AP. T: 020-7025 7171. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Prestat One of London’s oldest chocolate shops sells hot chocolate, truffles and more. Please check for times. www.prestat.co.uk. 14 Princes Arcade, SW1Y 6DS. T: 020-8961 8555. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Twinings This is one of the capital’s oldest shops – it has been trading from 1706 – and is full of a variety of teas and infusions. Why not enjoy a free Tea Tasting session? Mon-Fri 9.30am-8pm; Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.twinings.co.uk. 216 Strand, WC2R 1AP. T: 020-7353 3511. D9. Station: Temple.

We Built This City Quirky souvenir shop that offers prints and other products created by British-based designers. www.webuiltthiscity.co.uk. 56-57 Carnaby St, W1F 9QF. E7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Exchange Specialist retailer of fine whiskies and spirits. www.thewhiskyexchange.com. 2 Bedford St, WC2E 9HH. T: 020-7403 8688. E8. Station: Charing Cross.

Selfridges The finest products in beauty and fashion. Mon-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun 11.30am-6pm. www.selfridges.com. 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 0800-123 400. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Malls & Factory Outlets Bicester Village

selfridges © Richard Chambury/richfoto.com

images © Mark Astle @ Proper Agency Ltd

For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com

Pass Partner Discount designer clothes at this relaxed haven in Oxfordshire. Mon-Wed & Fri 9am-9pm; Thur & Sat 9am-10pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.bicestervillage.com. Bicester Village, Bicester, Oxfordshire, OX26 6WD. T: 01869-323 200. Off map. Station: Bicester Village, from London Marylebone. There is also a bus pick-up service from major hotels.

Westfield London Pass Partner This mall is home to more than 300 shops. www.westfield.com/london. Ariel Way, W12 7GF. T: 020-3371 2300. Off map. Station: Shepherd’s Bush.

Westfield Stratford City Pass Partner Europe’s largest shopping centre with 270 shops, 70 places to dine and a 24-hour casino. www.west field.com/stratfordcity. 2 Stratford Place, E20 1EJ. T: 020-8221 7300. Off map. Station: Stratford.

Design for life The new Designer Studio at Selfridges is part of a £300 million regeneration project. Taking over 20,000 square feet of the third floor, this is the first time that high street and luxury labels have been displayed together. International names include 3.1 Phillip Lim and Kenzo, while new brands exclusive to the store include Richard Malone and Puma x Fenti. You will also find The T Shirt Shop, The Gallery – where you can buy art – and The Book Shop, which stocks fashion books and collectible magazines. ‘We want the experience to surprise and make sense simultaneously. It addresses both the creativity and practicality of shopping for fashion,’ says buying and merchandising director Sebastian Manes. www.wheretraveler.com 49

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ORCHAR

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River Pandora Island Watches of Swarovski Switzerland Russell & Hour Passion W Bromley EIGHH O

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Phase Eight The Disney Store Beige Debenhams (W1G 8TR) Gap The Toy Store

GT TITCHF

ST R AT FO RD

Selfridges O XFrench F O R Connection

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Tissot O X F O R DHouse of FraserJohn Lewis The Body G R E AT C A S T L E S T R E E T Gianmarco Lorenzi STR Shop EASTCASTLE ST U S EBosideng All Saints ST EET Massimo Clarks H&M Nike Town Browns Dutti Duke Street Zara MARKET PLA Hobbs CE Pronovias Swatch River Island Topshop Butler & Wilson Emporium Pandora Ernest Jones Ted Baker OXFO Ermenegildo Boudi RD S United Colors of Benetton Zegna Gap Mephisto TREE Tezenis T PRINCES Thomas Sabo ST OXFORD T.M.Lewin Mango River Island Ted Baker CIRCUS Penhaligon’s Russell & Bromley Omega Karen Millen Tru Diamonds M&S B Links R O OofKLondon Apple Store STREE Dune Halcyon Days RAMILLIES PL Lacoste T Pomellato Armani Exchange Longchamp L.K.Bennett HANOVER S All Saints T Fenwick Victoria’s Secret Molton Brown H&M B R O O K Anya Hindmarch ’S MEW 7 For All Mankind Banana Republic SMontblanc D&G Michael Kors GROSVE Z Zegna Boss NOR SQ Emporio Armani COS Liberty Agent Provocateur Pal Zileri Hobbs Mulberry T GROSVE Desigual Canali NOR STR X STumi O F.Pinet EET D D Camper Gap M AD D OX S T Kipling MA Breitling Bally Clarks Vivienne The East India Belstaff MOUNT Jaeger R O W Westwood Wempe Company G R O S V EIWC N O RSchaffhausen Juicy Couture HILL Coach Vivienne Church's T Zilli Hamleys Smythson Westwood E E T EE R T Fendi MAN T R Hackett N S Links of London Watch Store MOUNT B O U R D OPolo Ralph Lauren S Hublot ST T Gant Boss UI E & Bromley Russell Jimmy Choo Kate Spade New York PLAC INGTON PLACE ND TON LaliqueNEW BURL Bose BRU CO BROADWICK ST Levi’s Tory Burch Vivienne Westwood Lucie Reiss Temperley London Miu Miu Campbell Michael Kors Calvin Klein ET T TON ST STRE Hermès Burberry NEW BURLING REE Guess O R DTateossian N S T Kors CLIFF OMichael T & U H Anthropologie J. Crew COAC S BR ET HORSE Massimo Dutti CHANEL Watches of STRE YARD BEAK Louis Vuitton Kenzo Paul Smith Switzerland T RD S Dior Brooks Brothers CLIFFO Karl Lagerfeld Boucheron G O L DE N Ice Bar Tommy Hilfiger Patek Philippe Swarovski TON ST Mappin & Webb Georg Jensen G R A FAsprey Bulgari Adler For a VIP shopping experience, visit PL Chopard REGENT Harry Winston T.M.Lewin S Q U A R E River Island’s complimentary personal Bregeut Penhaligon’s Folli Follie Van Cleef & Arpels Burberry NEW C A V Eand styling service for men women. Cartier NDISH ST Zara Graff LL I EET H Boodles Y Mikimoto H&A Co & Hawkes Mango STR The Style Studio is located in selected ER Ralph LaurenG D N SGieves VIGO ST W E HAM YARD VILLAGE David Morris GTON Viyella B R Reiss Salvatore stores, including the Marble Arch B U R L I N Ferragamo GL Dover St Tiffany&Co Brummells AS BURLINGTON ARCADE SH Austin Reed CHANEL flagship. Whether it’s a wardrobe Market of London Chatila O Superdry Charles UTyrwhitt QUEEN ANNE STREET SE DKNY ROYAL ARCADE ST Jo Malone Max Mara overhaul or seasonal update, the DENMAN Calleija ST Moss Bros. UGG Australia RE Prada Hollister R E Rolex ET Coach service takes 30 minutes, an hour or ET Penhaligon’s Gap Leviev Hunter Omega two experience comes Saint Laurent W I Ghours. Wolford M O R EThe STREET Daks Barbour Gucci The Highlands with complimentary bubbles, too! La Perla Whittard of Chelsea Marina Rinaldi Dolce & Gabbana Kiehls 473 Oxford St, W1C 2AU. PICCADILLY Vertu Alexander McQueen CIRCUS GREEN PARK Barbour T: 0344-334 0506. Cartier Tod’s (100yards) International Y L L De Beers Mappin & Webb www.riverisland.com/stylestudio PICCADI H E N R I E T TA P Fortnum LACE Tumi & Mason Osprey London Hawes Cath Kidston Bates Hatters & Curtis Alfred EET Links of RLondon Dunhill J E R M Y N S T Emmett Jones Bootmaker Paxton & Visit Beige, for London’s finest collection of Whitfield T.M.Lewin stylish clothes for curvy women. It specialises Church’s Hackett Longmire in sizes 16 to 28 for occasion wear, weekends Thomas Pink BOND STREET

LO W ER ST JA ME S

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Longmire

T REGENT STREE

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Beige

and more. Expect one-to-one service from knowledgeable stylists while sipping a glass of wine. The West End store is open seven days a week, while the City branch (near Holborn) has great clothes for busy professionals. West End Branch: 44 New Cavendish St, W1G 8TR. T: 020-7935 3999. www.beigeplus.com

G T P U LT E N E Y S T

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River Island

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SPECIALISTS IN LARGE S I Z E S 1 6 - 2 8 Beautiful clothes - casual, cocktail, special occasion and business

M A RY L E B O N E

HOLBORN

44 New Cavendish Street

33 Southampton Row

London W1G 8TR

London WC1B 5HJ

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK

CLOSED SUNDAYS

LONDON’S NO.1 SIGHTSEEING TOUR ON THE THAMES

beigeplus.com

kids gofree with a FAMILY RIVER PASS

Big Ben, The London Eye, Tower Bridge and more. See the best views in London with our River Thames sightseeing cruise, with City Cruises’ boats departing every 30 minutes and tickets starting at £10.00.

Ticket types We offer a range of ticket types, from single & return journeys to hop-on, hop-off 24 and 72 hour River Passes. Cruises depart Every 30 minutes from our piers at Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich.

BUY TICKETS ONLINE

citycruises.com OR CALL

+44 (0)20 77 400 400

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SHOPPING HYDE PARK CORNER (0.3miles)

Rolex By The Watch Gallery UGG Mari Vanna GE R I DHarvey Nichols B Burberry T S KNIGHTSBRIDGE Karen Millen H Boodles G Boss Liu Jo Salvatore Ferragamo L.K.Bennett Alberta Ferretti Tom Ford Lacoste Dolce & Gabbana Ermanno Scervino Shanghai Tang Watches of Switzerland Swarovski Moncler Tommy Hilfiger Graff Escada Porsche Design Massimo Dutti Louis Vuitton Russell & Bromley Ted Baker Gucci Miu Miu Bonhams KNIGHTSBRIDGE Versace Roberto Cavalli Fendi D Rochester Big & Tall Clothing A Space NK Michael Kors Hermes Dior O Basha R Aaron Bulgari at Harrods Godiva Jimmy Choo N Kuoni in Harrods Dolce & Gabbana Bottega Veneta Harrods TO Aromatherapy Associates Valentino R ESCENT P Gap Saint Laurent M Escada ST O Pinko at Harrods B M Pucci Tods Nespresso R CO B Reiss OT CHANEL M Caroline Castigliano Christian I N S T Arije Giorgio Armani LK Louboutin Mulberry HA B La Perla W Loro Piana E Coccinelle A CADOGAN PLACE Prada U Lauren B C D H Emporio Armani Herve Leger A A John Boyd O M R P Stewart Parvin Caroline Charles P N Agent Bruce Oldfield L Amrapali HANS ST A Provocateur TO Suzanne Neville C P E Haute Couture T OM T STREE

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Emilia Wickstead Atelier

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Hackett Zadig & Voltaire Smythson G O D Kate Spade J.Crew LTiffany CA S OANE Peter Jones SLOANE SQUARE CE ARE LA Boggi Milano STed Q UBaker S P DN T G T T.M.Lewin D Boss OR CO LF Massimo Dutti AY Links of London CU R D Russell & Bromley D BCBG Max Azria E C O A Eric Bompard LA P Calvin Klein R Michael Kors ST AY S Whistles R N B O Hobbs G’ L.K.Bennett LS N U K I Jigsaw Banana Republic CO Sarah Pacini Kurt Geiger Catimini Reiss Elliot Rhodes Thomas Sabo

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Chocolatier Godiva is located inside Harrods, the world-famous department store. The Gold Collection, which was launched to mark the Queen’s 90th birthday, contains the brand’s iconic chocolates as well as the new fragrant rose and raspberry-flavoured one (18 pieces £28; nine pieces £15). Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7730 1234. www.godivachocolates.co.uk

SLOANE STREET

SIL

Godiva

Sloane Street & Knightsbridge

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Anthropologie

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L.K.Bennett

E ST LOWER SLOAN

Famous for its scented candles, the British brand Jo Malone has launched a rare tea collection with six unique scents ranging from Darjeeling to Oolong tea, which you can find in its Chelsea shop. ‘Through an infusion process we used actual rare teas in each of the fragrances, a first in perfumery,’ says Serge Majoullier, Master Perfumer, on Rare Teas. 150 Sloane Terrace, SW1X 9BX. T: 037-0192 5121. www.jomalone.co.uk

Jo Malone

ne Sloa T & EE STR BRIDGE HTS I N K G xur y stores lu r r Fo esigne and d ion fash

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SHOPPING

SHOPPING ESSENTIALS SIZING GUIDE UK

Euro

WOMEN’S CLOTHES XS S M L

6 8 10 12 14 16

2 4 6 8 10 12

34 36 38 40 42 44

TAX-FREE SHOPPING Value Added Tax (VAT ) is a 20% sales tax added on all goods except food, books and children’s clothing. Overseas visitors from outside the EU can shop tax-free in the UK, recouping some of the cost of the item. Don’t forget to ask instore for more information about tax-free shopping.

MEN’S CLOTHES (CHEST) S M L

34 36 38 40 42 44

44 46 48 50 52 54

CHILDREN’S CLOTHES 4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

4-5yrs 6-7 8-9 10 12 13

NICKELODEON STORE LONDON

110cm 116-122 128-134 140-146 152-158 164-170

Normal opening times for most shops are Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm unless stated otherwise. Some shops may stay open until 9pm on Thursdays for late-night shopping.

@NickStoreLondon #NICKSTORELONDON

FEMALE SHOPPER COURTESY OF WESTFIELD; CARNABY STREET © ISTOCK

Visit us in-store at Leicester Square OR on-line at www.nickelodeonSTORE.co.uk

purchases over £25. Valid until 31st October 2016. purcha To redeem, brbring this coupon into the store or use promo code ode on-line:GIFT on-line: GIFTFTF

Limit one per person, per visit. Cannot be combined with other coupons or discounts. May not be redeemed any other retail ret tail locations. © 2016 Viacom International Inc. All Rights Reserved. SpongeBob SquarePants created by Stephen Hillenburg. TEENAGE MU MUTANT NINJA TURTLES © Viacom Overseas Holdings C.V. © 2016 Spin Master. All Rights Reserved.

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DINING | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from this image: chalk-stream trout; inside the restaurant; senior head chef Stanley Jacobs; Victoria sponge with mango compote

The art of food No trip to London would be complete without a visit to the Tate Modern, one of the world’s biggest museums of modern art. Since opening in 2000, the former power station has attracted more than 40 million people with its permanent collection and spectacular exhibitions. In June this year, it unveiled a new £260m building called the Switch House, which twists up 10 storeys like a pyramid next to the iconic 1950s landmark. Now visitors can enjoy 60 per cent more display space, plus new areas to meet, eat, drink and relax in, including a sky-high restaurant wrapped around the ninth floor. Designed by the museum’s original architects Herzog & de Meuron, the Switch House’s simply named Tate Modern Restaurant is so minimal in its décor that it is almost like a blank canvas itself. With its smooth concrete pillars, exposed light bulbs and raw oak surfaces, it is not unlike the art gallery beneath it. But don’t expect to see a Tracey Emin or Damien Hirst hanging from

its walls anytime soon. The real masterpieces here are the food and panoramic views. Begin your meal with an aperitif of white port and tonic at the bar, if you can, where tall stools provide the best spot to take in the sights below. Those without a head for heights will be relieved to know that once they’re seated at the dining tables, the view is largely obscured by the high-backed banquettes, allowing all attention to be directed towards the food. Simple starters of pork and black pudding croquettes and chalk-stream trout were

intricately presented. The croquettes were elegantly seasoned and the fish was succulent and cleverly paired with roasted onion, white asparagus and British favourite pea purée, otherwise known as mushy peas. For mains, we were impressed by the tenderness of the lamb rump, flanked by a rainbow of heritage vegetables, and the freshness of the lemon sole in burnt lemon butter. For dessert, it had to be the chocolate and hazelnut delice with passion fruit sorbet – an Instagrammer’s delight. As you’d expect from a restaurant located inside an art gallery, the food here is as pretty as a picture but it also happens to taste very good, too. Like the best paintings, the art of the Tate Modern Restaurant is in the details, from the bespoke earthenware to the wonderful organic wines – oh, and that amazing view (albeit only when you stand up)! Tate Modern, Bankside, SE1 9TG. T: 020-7401 5283. www.tate.org.uk/visit/tate-modern/restaurant

this page: tate modern restaurant images © info@jamesmunson.me. Opposite page: afternoon tea courtesy of the waldorf hilton

Tate Modern got bigger and better this summer with an impressive £260m extension and a new sky-high restaurant. Sam Rogg pays a visit and discovers the food is as outstanding as the gallery’s artworks

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For more information on the where pass london, visit wherepasslondon.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. B (breakfast), L (lunch) D (dinner). Prices per person for three courses: £: up to £25; ££: £25-£40; £££: £40-80; ££££: £80 +. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 72-73

AmericaS (NORTH & SOUTH)

british (Modern)

Chiltern Firehouse

Intimate restaurant serving tasty dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.milestonehotel.com. The Milestone Hotel, 1 Kensington Court, W8 5DL. T: 020-7917 1000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

This hip hotel restaurant in an old fire station serves US-style dishes. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.chiltern firehouse.com. 1 Chiltern St, W1U 7PA. T: 020-7073 7676. D6. Station: Baker Street.

The Colony Grill Room Wood-panelled dining room inside The Beaumont evokes 1920s America with old-world US grill fare. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.colonygrillroom.com. The Beaumont, 8 Balderton St, W1K 6TN. T: 0207499 9499. D6. Station: Bond Street.

Goodman

Cheneston’s

City Social This award-winning restaurant and bar from Jason Atherton boasts beautiful views across the city. £££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.citysocial london.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Dinner by Heston Bluemnthal

Premium New York steakhouse with a loyal following. Grain-fed beef comes in T-bone, rib-eye, sirloin and fillet. £££. Mon-Sat L & D. www. goodmanrestaurants.com. 26 Maddox St, W1S 1QH. T: 020-7499 3776. E6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Experience the first London restaurant from this superchef, with a menu influenced by historic British gastronomy. ££££. Daily L & D; booking essential. www.dinnerbyheston.com. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7201 3833. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Hard Rock Cafe

Fera at Claridge’s

London’s original burger joint is more than 40 years old and stuffed full of rock memorabilia. ££. Daily L & D. www.hardrock.com. 150 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7514 1700. E8. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Chef Simon Rogan serves food made with organic ingredients. Aulis dining room allows guests to get close to the chef. ££££. Daily L & D. www.claridges. co.uk/fera. Claridge’s Hotel, Brook St, W1K 4HR. T: 020-7107 8888. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Heliot Steak House

Garfunkel’s

Steak house at the Hippodrome Casino. £££. Daily L & D. www.hippodromecasino.com. Hippodrome Leicester Square, 42-43 Cranbourn St, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

A range of popular British dishes, plus pizzas, pasta, wraps and a salad bar. Many West End and central locations. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.garfunkels.co.uk. 19 Irving St, WC2H 7AU (and branches). T: 0207930 8087. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

JW Steakhouse

Great Court Restaurant Enjoy lunch or afternoon tea above the Reading Room. ££. Daily L; Fri D. www.britishmuseum.org. British Museum, Great Russell St, WC1B 3DG. T: 020-7323 8990. D7. Station: Russell Square.

Holborn Dining Room Smart brasserie serving classic British dishes with a twist. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.holborn diningroom.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8633. D8. Station: Holborn.

St Pancras Grand Brasserie located in St Pancras Station. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.searcys.co.uk. Upper Concourse, St. Pancras Station, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St. Pancras.

British (Traditional) Café in the Crypt Underneath a landmark church, this café serves great English food at reasonable prices. £. MonSat B; daily L. www.smitf.org. St Martin-in-theFields, corner of Trafalgar Square, WC2N 4JJ. T: 020-7766 1158. D7. Station: Charing Cross.

Mews of Mayfair Stunning four-floored venue includes a British brasserie, a private dining room, a lounge and cocktail bar, an art gallery and a courtyard with al fresco tables. Excellent Sunday roast lunch. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.mewsofmayfair.com. 10 Lancashire Court, New Bond St, W1S 1EY. T: 020-7518 9388. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Top-quality steakhouse offering dry-aged American USDA prime beef with a variety of sides, starters and toppings. £££. Daily B, L & D. www.jwsteakhouse. co.uk. Grosvenor House Hotel, 86 Park Lane, W1K 7TL. T: 020-7399 8460. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Oblix Rise up to the 32nd floor of London landmark The Shard for ultra-sophisticated New York-style grill cuisine and amazing views (p. 60). £££. Daily L & D. www.oblixrestaurant.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9RY. T: 020-7268 6700. E10. Station: London Bridge.

Opposite page: afternoon tea courtesy of the waldorf hilton

Planet Hollywood Huge London outlet of the international chain. ££. Daily L & D (bar to 1am). www.planet hollywoodlondon.com. 57-60 Haymarket, SW1Y 4QX. T: 020-7287 1000. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rainforest Cafe Busy all-day dining in a mock rainforest setting. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.therainforest cafe.co.uk. 20 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 7EU. T: 020-7434 3111. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Rileys Sports Bar This sports bar serves steak, burgers and an all-day breakfast. There are 34 screens, table football, ping pong and darts. £. Mon-Sun B, L & D. www.rileys sportsbars.co.uk. 80 Haymarket, SW1Y 4TE. T: 0207930 0393. E3. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

STK London Dine in the ME London hotel’s steakhouse on British and American prime steaks. ££££. Daily D (from 5pm). www.stkhouse.com. ME Hotel, 336 Strand, WC2R 1HA. T: 020-7395 3450. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Our cup of tea Afternoon tea is always a grand occasion, especially when you enjoy it at The Waldorf Hilton’s fine-dining restaurant, Homage. Inspired by Europe’s grand cafés, it features chandeliers, pillars and a harpist. There are 13 loose-leaf teas to sniff before you choose, including an exclusive Waldorf tribute blend. Savouries include oak-smoked salmon and chive cream cheese on pumpernickel bread, alongside scones and pastries. The meal is served on a stand made from Royal Crown Derby fine bone china – a supplier to the Royal Household. If it’s good enough for the Queen, then it’s good enough for us! Aldwych, WC2B 4DD. T: 020-7836 2400. www3.hilton.com. D8. Station: Covent Garden www.wheretraveler.com 55

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DINING

Located in the Royal Garden Hotel London, the restaurant overlooks Kensington Gardens. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.parkterracerestaurant.co.uk. 2-24 Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7937 8000. Off map. Station: High Street Kensington.

The Ritz Restaurant

Chinese

Fish and Seafood

Bright Courtyard Club

J Sheekey

Wonderful, quality Cantonese and Shanghai dishes in a sophisticated setting. £££. Daily L & D. www.brightcourtyard.co.uk. 43-45 Baker St, W1U 8EW. T: 020-7486 6998. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Chic fish restaurant. Dishes include oysters, crab and spicy prawns. ££££. Daily L & D. www.j-sheekey. co.uk. 28-35 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL. T: 0207240 2565. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Chai Wu

Mr Fish

One of London’s prettiest dining rooms serves classic British dishes. Men should wear a jacket and tie. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.theritzlondon.com. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR. T: 020-7300 2370. E6/7. Station: Green Park.

Located in Harrods, feast on luxury food like Wagyu beef and Chilean sea bass. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.chaiwu.co.uk. 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Enjoy traditional British fish and chips, or try halibut or sea bass fried in breadcrumbs. £. Daily L & D. www.mrfishuk.com. 51 Salusbury Rd, NW6 6NJ. T: 020-7624 8181. Off map. Station: Queen’s Park.

Rules

Hakkasan

Poppies

Multi-award-winning restaurant with modern Chinese cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D; Thur-Sat last orders 12.30am. www.hakkasan.com. 8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HF (and Mayfair branch). T: 020-7927 7000. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Try fish dishes, including a seafood platter, plaice fillets and homemade fish cakes. £. Daily L & D. www.poppies.com. 55 Old Compton St, W1D 6HW. T: 020-7734 4845. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

Min Jiang

Stick with classic fish and chips, or try dishes such as lemon sole goujons. ££. Mon-Sat L & D. www.sea shellrestaurant.co.uk. 49-51 Lisson Grove, NW1 6UH. T: 020-7224 9000. C5. Station: Marylebone.

Long-established restaurant where the likes of Charles Dickens ate. ££££. Daily L & D. www.rules.co.uk. 35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB. T: 020-7836 5314. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

Sophie’s Steakhouse & Bar Relaxed bar-restaurant in Theatreland. Try the Aberdeen Angus roast beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.sophiessteakhouse.co.uk. 29-31 Wellington St, WC2E 7DB (and Chelsea branch). T: 020-7836 8836. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Wolseley The magnificent dining room sets the scene for this famous brasserie. Daily B, L & D. £££. www.thewolseley.com. 160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB. T: 020-7499 6996. E7. Station: Green Park.

Take in glorious views across Hyde Park while enjoying superb Sichuan cuisine. ££££. Daily L & D. www.minjiang.co.uk. Royal Garden Hotel, Kensington High St, W8 4PT. T: 020-7361 1988. F3. Station: High Street Kensington.

Royal China Club This huge Cantonese restaurant is popular for its dim sum. ££. Daily L & D. www.royalchinagroup. co.uk. 24-26 Baker St, W1U 3BZ (and branches). T: 020-7487 4688. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Contemporary European 1 Lombard Street Mouthwatering selection of gutsy, modern cooking in the brasserie. Brasserie: £££; Restaurant: ££££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L. www.1lombardstreet.com. 1 Lombard St, EC3V 9AA. T: 020-7929 6611. D10. Station: Bank.

The Delaunay Situated in the heart of Theatreland, this venue’s interior and menu are inspired by Europe’s grand cafés. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.thedelaunay.com. 55 Aldwych, WC2B 4BB. T: 020-7499 8558. E8. Station: Temple.

Galvin at Windows

A British gem Ormer Mayfair has become the hottest ticket in town. Housed within Flemings Mayfair and part of a £14m refurbishment at the boutique hotel, this restaurant from Michelin-starred chef Shaun Rankin serves authentic British food. Freshly foraged herbs, English wines and seasonal produce from land and sea punctuate the menu, which takes inspiration from the restaurant of the same name in Jersey. The dining room shimmers with 1930s glamour, and there are private rooms for special occasions. Flemings Mayfair, 7-12 Half Moon St, W1J 7BH. T: 020-7499 0000. www.ormermayfair.com. E6. Station: Green Park

Michelin-starred restaurant serving modern haute cuisine. Booking essential; smart dress. £££. Mon-Fri & Sun L; Mon-Sat D. www.galvin atwindows.com. Hilton on Park Lane, W1K 1BE. T: 020-7208 4021. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

The Ivy One of London’s great restaurants and a favourite with celebrities. Good for a pre- or post-theatre dinner. £££-££££. Daily L & D. Last orders at midnight. www.the-ivy.co.uk. 1-5 West St, WC2H 9NQ. T: 020-7836 4751. D7. Station: Leicester Square.

SixtyOne This sophisticated restaurant serves great food with big, bold flavours inspired by chef patron Arnaud Stevens. £££. Tue-Sat L & D. www.sixtyone restaurant.co.uk. 61 Upper Berkeley St, W1H 7PP. T: 020-7958 3222. D5. Station: Marble Arch.

Ting Located on level 35 of The Shard, this restaurant serves European dishes with an Asian influence. ££££. Daily B, L & D. www.shangri-la.com/london. Shangri-La, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

The Sea Shell

FRENCH Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester Exquisite food and a setting to dress up for from this three Michelin-starred chef. ££££. Tue-Fri L & D; Sat D. Advance booking essential. www.alain ducasse-dorchester.com. The Dorchester, Park Lane, W1K 1QA. T: 020-7629 8866. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Aubaine A combination of a Parisian salon and a Provençal bistro. Make sure you try the mussels. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.aubaine.co.uk. 260-262 Brompton Rd, SW3 2AS (and branches). T: 020-7052 0100. F5. Station: South Kensington.

Bel Canto Waiters perform opera while you dine. Enjoy their arias as you dine on dishes such as pan-fried beef fillet. £££. Wed-Sat D. www.belcantolondon.co.uk. Corus Hotel Hyde Park, 1 Lancaster Gate, W2 3LG. T: 020-7262 1678. E4. Station: Lancaster Gate.

Boundary Terence Conran’s modern French restaurant. £££. Tue-Sat D. www.theboundary.co.uk. 2-4 Boundary St, E2 7DD. T: 020-7729 1051. Off map. Station: Shoreditch High Street.

Brasserie Joël Restaurant serving classics such as tuna tartare. ££. Mon-Fri & Sun L & D; daily D. www.brasserie joel.co.uk. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7272. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Brasserie Zédel Bustling French brasserie and bar. £-££. Daily L & D. www.brasseriezedel.com. 20 Sherwood St, W1F 7ED. T: 020-7734 4888. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Celeste Dazzling French-inspired cuisine in an elegant dining room at The Lanesborough hotel. £££-££££. Daily B, L & D. www.lanesborough.com. The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, SW1X 7TA. T: 020-7259 5599. F6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Clos Maggiore Romantic dining room with a great wine list, featuring more than 2,300 bins. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.closmaggiore.com. 333 King St, WC2 8JD. T: 020-7379 9696. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

ormer mayfair © Studio M

Park Terrace

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DINING Club Gascon

Little India

Imaginative Michelin-starred French cuisine from Gascony and an award-winning wine list. £££-££££. Tue-Fri L; Mon-Sat D. www.clubgascon.com. 57 West Smithfield, EC1A 9DS. T: 020-7600 6144. D9. Station: Farringdon.

This cosy establishment specialises in dishes from Bengal. ££. Daily L & D. www.littleindialondon.com. 32 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7584 3476. F4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Galvin Bistrot de Luxe

A relaxed space offering grills, seafood, street food and curries. ££. Daily L & D; Sun L & D. www.masala grill.co. 535 King’s Rd, SW10 0SZ. T: 020-7351 3113. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

Le Pont de la Tour Riverside restaurant serves classic French dishes in a 19th-century warehouse. £££. Daily L & D. www.le pontdelatour.co.uk. 36d Shad Thames, SE1 2YE. T: 020-7403 8403. Off map. Station: London Bridge.

Gastropubs The Eagle One of London’s first gastropubs; it is still very popular. ££. Mon-Sat L & D; Sun L. www.theeagle farringdon.co.uk. 159 Farringdon Rd, EC1R 3AL. T: 020-7837 1353. D9. Station: Farringdon.

The Thomas Cubitt Classic dining room with an adjacent bar, serving top-quality British produce. Try the beef sirloin Sunday roast. £££. Daily L & D. www.thethomas cubitt.co.uk. 44 Elizabeth St, SW1W 9PA. T: 020-7730 6060. G6. Station: Victoria.

The Wells This bright and airy pub boasts top-quality British cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.thewellshampstead. co.uk. 30 Well Walk, NW3 1BX. T: 020-7794 3785. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

Indian Amaya Karunesh Khanna’s Michelin-starred food is cooked in the dramatic show kitchen. £££. Daily L & D. www.amaya.biz. 19 Motcomb St, SW1X 8JT. T: 020-7823 1166. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Chor Bizarre This popular restaurant specialises in cuisine from North India. £££. Mon-Sat L; daily D. www.chorbizarre.com. 16 Albermarle St, W1S 4HW. T: 020-7629 9802. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chutney Mary

Masala Zone Informal dining in this good-value restaurant. Tuck into a grand thali. £. Daily L & D (and branches). www.masalazone.com. 9 Marshall St, W1F 7ER. T: 020-7287 9966. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Memories of India Authentic flavours from North India. Specialities include spiced lamb. ££. Daily L & D. www.memories ofindia.com. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450. G4. Station: Gloucester Road.

Mint Leaf Contemporary dishes are the trademark of this stylish venue. £££. Mon-Fri L; daily D. www.mint leafgroup.com. Suffolk Place, Haymarket, SW1Y 4HX. T: 020-7930 9020. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Veeraswamy The UK’s oldest Indian restaurant marries an opulent interior with stylish cuisine. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.veeraswamy.com. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 99 Regent St, W1B 4RS. T: 020-7734 1401. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

International The Cavendish Fish, meats and salads are prepared while you watch. ££. Daily L & D. 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TR. www.35newcavendish.co.uk. T: 0207487 3030. C5. Station: Baker Street.

SushiSamba Fusion of Japanese and Brazilian food, with rooftop terrace. £££. Daily L & D. www.sushi samba.com. 38th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY. T: 020-3640 7330. D11. Station: Liverpool Street.

Italian Bella Italia

Expect a gourmet tour of seven different Indian regions at this restaurant. Also serves Indianinspired breakfasts. £££. Mon-Fri B, L & D; Sat L & D. www.chutneymary.com. 73 St James’s St, SW1 1PH. T: 020-7629 6688. E7. Station: Green Park.

Traditional dishes, such as Roma pizzas, lasagne and carbonara. ££. Daily B, L & D (and branches). www.bellaitalia.co.uk. 100 Baker St, W1U 6WG. T: 020-3058 3458. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Gaylord

The menu is like a tour of Italy with pizzas as well as outstanding small plates of meat, fish and pasta. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.sancarlocicchetti.co.uk. 30 Wellington St, WC2E 7BD (and Piccadilly branch). T: 020-7240 6339. E8. Station: Covent Garden.

London’s second-oldest Indian restaurant is famed for its award-winning tandoori and Mughlai-based cuisine. ££. Daily L & D. www.gaylordlondon.com. 79-81 Mortimer St, W1W 7SJ. T: 020-7580 3615. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

Khan’s of Kensington

For the quintessential English experience, stop for an afternoon tea with a twist

Cicchetti

Gigi’s

This restaurant serves a great range of vegetarian and fish dishes. ££. Daily L & D. www.khansof kensington.co.uk. 3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. G4. Station: South Kensington.

Classic dishes are given a stylish twist. Mains include black tagliatelle with cuttlefish and mussels. £££. Mon-Sat L& D. www.gigismayfair.com. 22 Woodstock St, W1C 2AR. T: 020-7499 8743. D6. Station: Bond Street.

La Porte des Indes

Rossopomodoro

Indian cuisine with a Gallic twist, inspired by the Pondicherry region. £££. Daily L & D. www.la portedesindes.com. 32 Bryanston St, W1H 7EG. T: 020-7224 0055. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Authentic Neapolitan pizza and pasta. £. Daily L & D. www.rossopomodoro.co.uk. John Lewis, 300 Oxford St, W1C 1DX. T: 020-7629 7711. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

SANDERSON LONDON Celebrate the 150th anniversary of Alice in Wonderland with a Mad Hatter’s afternoon tea at the quirky boutique hotel Sanderson London (above). Start by browsing the menu, which is hidden inside a vintage book. The tea is served in teapots decorated with kings and queens while the treats are served on plates painted with birdcages and carousels. Once you’ve nibbled on sandwiches and scones, you’ll delight in chocolate pastries in the shape of a three of hearts card, coffee-flavoured pocket-watch macarons and desserts that come with ‘Drink me’ labels. 50 Berners St, W1T 3NG. T: 020-7300 1400. www.morganshotelgroup.com

K WEST HOTEL & Spa Now the Central line is running 24/7, there’s nothing stopping you from enjoying K West Hotel & Spa’s new Rock ‘n’ Cocktails Midnight Tea, which, as the name suggests, runs until midnight. In honour of the hotel’s music heritage, the midnight feast begins at 10pm with sliders and roasted peppers and sundried tomatoes on focaccia, served on vintage record covers. You’ll also enjoy blueberry ‘rolling scones’, summer berry panna cotta, white chocolate truffle lollies and chocolate cherry apples. Wash it all down with a tea-infused cocktail served in electric blue or pink teacups. A resident DJ spins tracks into the early hours. Richmond Way, W14 0AX. T: 020-8008 6600. www.k-west.co.uk

ONE ALDWYCH Celebrate the 100th anniversary of Roald Dahl’s birth with a tea dedicated to one of the author’s best-selling books, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. Like the book and the musical around the corner, the tea features treats from miniature caramel chocolate milkshakes and golden eggs to cake pops, blueberry brioche and pink candyfloss – but can you guess the flavour? As well as a variety of tea including a chocolate-flavoured one, you can upgrade your experience by adding a glass of Champagne or a Charlie cocktail. 1 Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 1000. www.onealdwych.com

sanderson london afternoon tea © RED-PHOTOGRAPHIC.COM

The highly regarded Galvin brothers’ classic Parisian-style bistro. ££££. Daily L & D. www.galvinrestaurants.com. 66 Baker St, W1U 7DJ. T: 020-7935 4007. D6. Station: Baker Street.

Masala Grill

Time for tea

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THREE OF THE VERY BEST INDIAN RESTAUR ANTS This award winning sophisticated Indian Grill offers intense flavours with an innovative twist, in a theatrical open kitchen setting. Michelin star. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Halkin Arcade, Motcomb Street Knightsbridge, London SW1X 8JT T: 020 7823 1166 E: amaya@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 14

The rich setting, interesting art and romantic candle lighting are secondary details in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven of great Indian contemporary food. Open for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday. Saturday Brunch with live jazz music. 73 St Jamesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Street, London SW1A 1PH T: 020 7629 6688 E: chutneymary@realindianfood.com Two private dining rooms seat 30 and 16

Classical dishes, lovingly prepared and beautifully served in sumptuous surroundings overlooking Regent Street. The oldest Indian restaurant in the world. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week. Mezzanine Floor, Victory House, 1st floor 99 Regent Street, London W1B 4RS T: 020 7734 1401 E: veeraswamy@realindianfood.com Private dining room seats 24

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DINING Verdi Casual dining and authentic flavours of Italy. ££. Daily L & D. www.verdiitalian.com. Door 12, Royal Albert Hall, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7070 4401. F4. Station: South Kensington.

japanese & korean Benihana Chefs create griddle-cooked dishes at your table. Try the Wagyu beef. £££. Daily L & D. www.benihana. co.uk. 37 Sackville St, W1S 3EH (and branches). T: 020-7494 2525. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Engawa Choose from three, five and eight-course tasting menus at this small but excellent sushi spot. £££. Daily L & D. www.engawa.uk. 2 Ham Yard, W1D 7DT. T: 020-7287 5724. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Matsuri

Nobu Top-quality sashimi, sushi and tempura. Bento box L £33; set lunch £29. Booking essential. ££££. Daily L & D. www.noburestaurants.com. 19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. T: 020-7447 4747. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Middle Eastern, Greek & Turkish Yasmeen Authentic dishes influenced by Lebanon and Syria. ££. Daily L & D. www.yasmeenrestaurant.com. 1 Blenheim Terrace, NW8 0EH. T: 020-7624 2921. Off map. Station: St John’s Wood.

riverside Bateaux London

See London’s sights on a river cruise while dining on modern British cuisine. £££. Daily L & D cruises; Sun jazz with three-course L. Nightly evening cruises. www.bateauxlondon.com. Embankment Pier, WC2N 6NU. T: 020-7695 1800. E8. Station: Embankment.

London Showboat Drift down the Thames past London’s icons and have a four-course dinner. Nightly £80 per person; booking essential. Departs Westminster Pier 7.30pm. www.city cruises.com. Westminster Pier, SW1A 2JR. T: 020-7740 0400. F8. Station: Westminster.

R.S. Hispaniola Delightful moored restaurant boat on the River Thames serving delicious modern European cuisine. £££. Daily L & D. www.hispaniola.co.uk. Victoria Embankment/Hungerford Bridge, WC2N 5DJ. T: 020-7839 3011. E8. Station: Embankment.

The high life Don’t be surprised if your ears pop on your way up to Oblix (p. 55), the New York-inspired restaurant on the 32nd floor of Western Europe’s tallest building, The Shard. Founded by Rainer Becker, the man behind celebrity favourites Roka and Zuma, this sophisticated and contemporary restaurant boasts views of London’s famous landmarks, including Tower Bridge and the ‘Gherkin’. Start with the soft fried octopus and crispy squid with chilli and lime. Mains hail either from the grill, Josper oven or rotisserie. We couldn’t resist the allure of the single enormous grilled tiger prawn with roasted artichokes, and the black cod with coriander salsa. An ‘interactive sommelier station’ lets you get involved in your wine choice – perfect for a tasting or masterclass before dinner, if you wish.

Chi Kitchen

Iberica Victoria

Excellent pan-Asian cuisine on the ground floor of department store Debenhams. Enjoy exotic contemporary dishes influenced by Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean food. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.chikitchen. co.uk. 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Traditional dishes are given a modern twist on a menu created by award-winning chef Nacho Manzano. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.iberica restaurants.com. 5-6 Zig Zag Building, 68 Victoria St, SW1E 6SQ. T: 020-3327 0200. F7. Station: Victoria.

House of Ho Four-storey townhouse serving exceptional Vietnamese cuisine. Try the Wagyu short rib hot and cold pho. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.houseof ho.co.uk. 1 Percy St, W1T 1DB. T: 020-7323 9130. D7. Station: Goodge Street.

Mango Tree

Traditional East End favourites are pie and mash, and jellied eels with parsley liquor

south East Asian Blue Elephant

Savour a Royal Thai menu at this wonderful riverside restaurant filled with antiques. £££. Tue-Sun D; Sun L. www.blueelephant.com. The Boulevard, Imperial Wharf, Townsmead Rd, SW6 2UB. T: 020-7751 3111. Off map. Station: Fulham Broadway.

This elegant restaurant serves classic Thai dishes. Try the sea bass wrapped in banana leaf. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.mangotree.org.uk. 46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ. T: 020-7823 1888. F6. Station: Victoria.

Thai Pot

This popular spot has stylish décor and truly fantastic food. £. Mon-Sat L & D. www.thaipot.biz. 1 Bedfordbury, WC2N 4BP. T: 020-7379 4580. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Spanish El Pirata This busy tapas bar-restaurant in the heart of Mayfair serves hot and cold dishes, including cured meats and fresh seafood. ££-£££. Mon-Fri L & D; Sat D. www.elpirata.co.uk. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AG. T: 0207491 3810. E6. Station: Hyde Park Corner.

Moro North Africa meets Spain in this highly regarded Moorish restaurant serving dishes such as duck fattee with chickpea pilaf. £££. Daily L; Mon-Sat D. www.moro.co.uk. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE. T: 020-7833 8336. Off map. Station: Farringdon.

Vegetarian Amico Bio Good-value Italian eatery that uses organic ingredients from the owner’s farm in Italy. Try the tagliolini pasta with tofu, tomato and aubergines. £-££. Daily L & D. www.amicobio.co.uk. 44 Cloth Fair, EC1A 7JQ. T: 020-7600 7778. D9. Station: Barbican.

Tibits Enjoy dozens of delicious dishes, buffet-style, at this relaxed veggie restaurant-bar. Choose from crunchy fresh salads, hot dishes and healthy puddings. ££. Daily B, L & D. www.tibits.co.uk. 12-14 Heddon St, off Regent St, W1B 4DA. T: 0207758 4110. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Woodlands Well-flavoured cuisine from throughout India. Enjoy delicious dishes such as cashew pakoras and Mysore masala dosa. ££-£££. Daily L & D. www.woodlandsrestaurant.co.uk. 77 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PS (and branches). T: 020-7486 3862. D6. Station: Bond Street.

oblix © Richard Southall

Elegant innovative dining, specialising in sushi and teppanyaki cooked at the table. £££. Daily L & D. www.matsuri-restaurant.com. 15 Bury St, SW1Y 6AL. T: 020-7839 1101. E7. Station: Green Park.

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OBLIX © RICHARD SOUTHALL

ENJOY THE THALI AT

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S AVOUR THE AU THENTIC FL AVOURS OF INDIA

Experience Indian food as it’s meant to be at Masala Grill. With our expertly cooked regional dishes and richly decorated restaurant, a visit to Masala Grill (in the former home of Chutney Mary) is a feast for all the senses. We’re open every evening for dinner and on Sundays for our famous buffet lunch. Rediscover your passion for Indian food at Masala Grill. 535 KINGS ROAD LONDON SW10 0SZ 020 7351 7788 | MASALAGRILL.CO | RESERVATIONS@MASALAGRILL.CO

TO BOOK PLEASE CALL

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best of london dining Chi Kitchen Contemporary pan-Asian restaurant Chi Kitchen opened last year on the ground floor of Debenhams on Oxford Street. The word ‘chi’, in Chinese, means energy, and the restaurant strives to offer good energy, as well as great food, to hungry shoppers. The open-plan restaurant lets you watch the chefs prepare Thai, Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese, Vietnamese and Korean cuisine. Chi Kitchen will take you on a unique culinary journey through south east Asia. Mention ‘Where London’ when you book to enjoy a complimentary glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal at Chi Kitchen. Mon-Sat 7.30am-11pm (last orders 10.15pm), Sun 11.30am-10pm (last orders 9.15pm).

Chai Wu

Ground Floor Debenhams (Henrietta Place entrance), 334-348 Oxford St, W1C 1JG. T: 020-3841 6888. www.chikitchen.co.uk. Station: Oxford Circus

Chai Wu is a contemporary Chinese restaurant, located on the Fifth Floor of the iconic department store, Harrods, in Knightsbridge. The restaurant design incorporates the five elements of Chinese philosophy: wood, metal, water, earth and fire, creating an elegant, opulent and welcoming dining setting. The tasty, exotic and colourful dishes reflect the finest of modern Chinese cuisine. The menu consists of small dishes such as black truffle sour soup and Chilean sea bass dumpling with gold leaf, as well as luxurious dishes including Beijing duck and wagyu steak. Mon-Sat noon-9pm (last orders 8.30pm), Sun noon-6pm (last orders 5.15pm) 5th Floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-3819 8888. www.chaiwu.co.uk. Station: Knightsbridge

Khans of Kensington Visit Khans of Kensington for delicious, genuine Indian cuisine which a core of devotees have been enjoying for many years. The restaurant prides itself on its modern take on traditional North Indian cuisine, with mouthwatering dishes such as its famous fish koliwada and lamb chop in honey sauce. The expansive menu covers many dishes, but if you don’t see your personal favourite on the menu, just ask the team of expert chefs and they will be more than happy to set that right. The restaurant is just a minute’s walk from South Kensington tube station. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm.

Memories of India

3 Harrington Rd, SW7 3ES. T: 020-7584 4114. www.khansofkensington.co.uk. Station: South Kensington

At Memories of India you can explore and experience the many varied tastes of India, with traditional and creative Indian dishes with a twist of ingenuity. Relax and let the team of award-winning chefs take your taste buds on an exotic trip and an unforgettable dining experience. The dishes here contain the finest ingredients in order to create the uncompromising flavours of India. We have a private room for parties and corporate functions. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm. 18 Gloucester Rd, SW7 4RB. T: 020-7589 6450/020-7581 3734. www.memoriesofindia.com. Station: Gloucester Road.

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best of london dining Little India One of the few Indian restaurants owned and managed by a lady. Why not come and try our signature dish ‘Naga Chicken’ – cooked in spices and a naga chilli and tossed dry, as well as this we pride ourselves in traditional home style cooking. Come and enjoy a truly unique and memorable dining experience whilst indulging yourself in the real taste of fine Indian cuisine. Open 7 days a week – Monday to Saturday, noon till 11.30pm and Sunday noon till 11pm. Dinner reservations are strongly recommended as Little India is really little! Perfectly located near The Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Kensington Palace and The Natural History Museum.

El Pirata

32 Gloucester Road, London SW7 4RB Tel: 020 7584 3476/020 7589 9315 www.littleindialondon.com Station: Gloucester Road

For more than 20 years, El Pirata has hit the spot as London’s top restaurant for traditional Spanish tapas. Located in the heart of Mayfair, it’s the perfect place for a true taste of the Mediterranean in a chic yet friendly setting. Informal, inexpensive and above all, authentic – the restaurant uses the finest Spanish produce, including jamón ibérico, to create its classic dishes. Celebrity fans include Brian May and Johnny Depp, and food critics are unanimous in their praise, describing it as a ‘Spanish gem’ (Zagat) with ‘surprisingly good prices’ (Hardens), and ‘a favourite with Mayfair’s Spanish community and converts to the new Iberian cause’ (Square Meal). Mon-Fri noon-11.30pm, Sat 6pm-11.30pm, closed Sun. 5-6 Down St, W1J 7AQ T: 020-7491 3810/7409 1315 www.elpirata.co.uk Station: Hyde Park Corner/Green Park

Mango Tree Mango Tree, situated in the heart of Belgravia, offers exquisite Thai cuisine and world-renowned hospitality in a modern and stylish environment. Its innovative yet classic cuisine is made from the finest ingredients. Enjoy genuine Thai dishes from the four main culinary regions: rich and mild dishes from the north, spicy food from the east, mild, Chinese-style dishes from the central region, and hot and spicy food from the south. Mention ‘Where London’ when booking, and enjoy a free glass of Champagne when you buy any main meal. Monday-Wed noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm; Sat noon-2.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm; Sun noon-10.30pm.

Chor Bizarre

46 Grosvenor Place, SW1X 7EQ (also in Harrods: 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL). T: 020-7823 1888. www.mangotree.org.uk. Station: Victoria

Much-feted Chor Bizarre on Albemarle Street in Mayfair offers a distinctive ambience. Its fabulous interior has been given a makeover, with gorgeous furnishings sourced from bazaars in India. It’s not surprising that Chor Bizarre, the London branch of New Delhi’s eternal favourite, has been judged ‘One of the 50 most romantic places in the world’ and included ‘among the Top 10 Restaurants in London for Fun and Atmosphere’ by The Independent newspaper, as well as ‘The best North Indian Restaurant in the UK’ by The Cobra Good Curry Guide. Mon-Sat noon-11.30pm, Sun noon-11pm. 16 Albemarle St, W1S 4HW T: 020-7629 9802 www.chorbizarre.com Station: Green Park

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nightlife | THE GUIDE

Oktoberfest

For the love of beer Hop on over to one of the capital’s craft breweries, where you can sip a pint or two of the best beers around, says Sam Rogg studios in Europe, but two of the capital’s best breweries: Crate (7, The White Building, Queen’s Yard, E9 5EN ) and Howling Hops (Unit 9a Queen’s Yard, White Post Lane, E9 5EN; above). Inside Crate, you can enjoy stone-baked pizzas with an IPA or pint of pale, while looking out over herb gardens and a canal. At Howling Hops, you can sip from the UK’s first dedicated tank bar, featuring 10 tanks with different beers. South of the river, near London Bridge, you’ll find a delicious concentration of microbreweries in Bermondsey, or ‘Beermondsey’ as it’s come to be known, including Anspach & Hobday (118 Druid St, SE1 2HH ). This is the perfect place to sink a pint after lunch at nearby Maltby Street food market on a weekend. If you’re in Bermondsey on a Saturday between 9am-2pm, pop into The Kernel (Arch 11, Dockley Rd Industrial Estate, SE16 3SF ), the area’s original brewery and still regarded as the best. Due to overwhelming demand, you can no longer drink on site but you can buy bottles to take away – a tasty London souvenir. Opening hours vary, so please check before visiting breweries.

London Oktoberfest This extraordinarily popular event sees Millwall Park in Canary Wharf transformed into a small but loud slice of Bavaria. Expect a huge tent with long tables filled with authentic German beer and food, plus live music and full Oktoberfest decoration, including staff dressed in dirndl and lederhosen. Beers in giant glasses made especially for Oktoberfest are the order of the day. It won’t be long before you’re standing on benches and wailing along to tunes you’ve never heard before. Opt for the VIP Package (£50-£60) and you’ll enjoy priority entrance, a guaranteed reserved seat, two Mass (1.5 pint) of FestBeer, a glass of Schlumberger Sekt and a special meal. Tables can be booked for groups and there are corporate packages for those looking to invite clients or entertain colleagues. 1-2 & 6-9 Oct. www.london-oktoberfest.co.uk

howling hops © Eugino Grosso; oktoberfest © istock

You don’t need to travel to Germany’s Oktoberfest to experience the best brews. Thanks to the recent craft beer movement, the capital is home to more independent breweries, tap rooms and beer events than you can shake an empty pint glass at. From the refreshingly crisp finish of a Camden Hells, to the black velvety allure of a Crate Stout, this city produces some amazing beers. You’ll spot many of them on bar menus, but for the ultimate experience, head straight to the source. With so many complex beers to choose from, people often overlook a simple lager, but at Camden Town Brewery (55-59 Wilkin St Mews, NW5 3NN ), the much-maligned drink gets a lot of love. Full flavoured, well balanced and elegantly moreish, Camden Hells is the king of lager. Head here to see how it’s made, eat some malt and smell some hops. There’s street food Thur-Sat nights. Pre-book a tour or just drop in at noon on Saturdays, and think of a brewery like you would a factory: wear trousers and closed-toe shoes for a tour. Hackney Wick in east London is not only home to the highest concentration of art 64 W H E R E Lo n d o n I O C TO B E R 2016

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FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

Most bars are open 11am-11pm, most nightclubs are open 10pm-3am. The UK’s legal drinking age is 18. ID may be required. T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘) stations, Railway and Docklands Light Railway. References near end of listings (A1 etc.) refer to coordinates on the map on p. 72-73

Traditional Pubs The Blackfriar This splendid Grade II-listed Art Nouveau pub, which opened more than 100 years ago, offers traditional cask ales. www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk. 174 Queen Victoria St, EC4V 4EG. T: 020-7236 5474. E9. Station: Blackfriars.

The Dog and Duck A real-ale pub with regularly changing cask beers as well as pub food and bar snacks. www.nicholsons pubs.co.uk. 18 Bateman St, W1D 3AJ. T: 020-7494 0697. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

The Flask This 17th-century pub boasts Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley as past patrons. www.theflask highgate.com. 77 Highgate West Hill, N6 6BU. T: 020-8348 7346. Off map. Station: Highgate.

The George Inn This historic pub was established during the Medieval period and still retains its original coaching houses. www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ george-inn. 75-77 Borough High St, SE1 1NH. T: 020-7407 2056. E10. Station: London Bridge.

The Magpie & Stump This pub was once a viewing spot for hangings. www.magpieandstump.com. 18 Old Bailey, EC4M 7EP. T: 020-7248 5085. B8. Station: St Paul’s.

The Spaniards Inn Follow in the footsteps of past regulars, including Dick Turpin and novelist Charles Dickens. www.the spaniardshampstead.co.uk. Spaniard’s Rd, NW3 7JJ. T: 020-8731 8406. Off map. Station: Hampstead.

The Nightjar

Hippodrome Casino

Enjoy Prohibition-era cocktails in this basement bar in Shoreditch, with live music most nights. www.barnightjar.com. 129 City Rd, EC1V 1JB. T: 020-7253 4101. C10. Station: Old Street.

This landmark venue has gaming on three floors, plus the Heliot Steak House. It also hosts live music, such as The Late Jazz Jam (every Thur from 11pm). www.hippodromecasino.com. Cranbourn St, Leicester Square, WC2H 7JH. T: 020-7769 8888. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

Reverend JW Simpson This cocktail bar is the genuine ex-abode of the good reverend, proved by the Blue Plaque outside. www.revjwsimpson.com. 32 Goodge St, W1T 2QJ. T: 020-3174 1155. E7. Station: Goodge Street.

Scarfes Bar Elegant bar named after Gerald Scarfe, famous for his satirical illustrations, which are around the room. www.scarfesbar.com. 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN. T: 020-3747 8611. E7. Station: Holborn.

The Sportsman Casino Traditional and electronic gaming, including three-card poker and American roulette. www.the sportsmancasino.com. Old Quebec St, W1H 7AF. T: 020-3051 4616. D6. Station: Marble Arch.

Live Entertainment Angels Gentlemen’s Club Soho

Europe’s longest Champagne bar. www.searcys champagnebars.co.uk. St Pancras International, Euston Rd, N1C 4QL. T: 020-7870 9900. C8. Station: King’s Cross St Pancras.

Six show and cocktail stages plus Red Rooms, VIP booths and the Leopard Room where Peter Stringfellow’s ‘Angels’ dance at your table. The venue includes the Angel Bar and restaurant. www.stringfellows.co.uk. 201 Wardour St, W1F 8ZH. T: 020-7758 0670. D7. Station: Oxford Circus.

The Whisky Bar

Ronnie Scott’s

Searcys Champagne Bar

This specialist bar, at the beautiful Athenaeum hotel in Mayfair, has 270 different types of whisky. www.athenaeumhotel.com. 116 Piccadilly, W1J 7BJ. T: 020-7640 3333. E6. Station: Green Park.

Casinos The Casino at the Empire Casino with a dedicated poker room and a contemporary Asian restaurant. www.thecasino lsq.com. 5-6 Leicester Square, WC2H 7NA. T: 0203733 1315. E7. Station: Leicester Square.

The world-famous jazz venue has hosted top musicians including Prince and Ella Fitzgerald. There are acts every night. www.ronniescotts. co.uk. 47 Frith St, W1D 4HT. T: 020-7439 0747. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Stringfellows Celebrities as well as the public have enjoyed ‘Angels’ dancing at their tables. Entry is free to Stringfellows if you are dining. www.stringfellows. co.uk. 16-19 Upper St Martin’s Lane, WC2H 9EF. T: 020-7240 5534. E8. Station: Leicester Square.

Bars & Clubs Booking Office Bar A 95ft-long bar surrounded by cavernous arched ceilings and stone walls dating back to 1873. www.bookingofficebar.com. Euston Rd, NW1 2AR. T: 020-7841 3566. C7. Station: King’s Cross.

Brooklyn Bowl This music venue at The O2 arena boasts a 12-lane bowling alley. www.brooklynbowl.com. The O2, Peninsula Square, SE10 0DX. T: 020-7412 8778. Off map. Station: North Greenwich.

City Social Jason Atherton offers spectacular food and drink surrounded by breathtaking views of London. www.citysociallondon.com. Tower 42, 25 Old Broad St, EC2N 1HQ. T: 020-7877 7703. D11. Station: Liverpool Street. This gay-friendly spot attracts a trendy crowd. www.barsoho.com. 60-66 Wardour St, W1F 0TA. T: 020-7734 0071. D7. Station: Tottenham Court Road.

Gong Located in The Shard, Gong is one of the highest Champagne bars in London. www.shangri-la.com. 31 St Thomas St, SE1 9QU. T: 020-7234 8000. F10. Station: London Bridge.

Gordon’s Wine Bar London’s oldest wine bar has been uncorking bottles since 1890. www.gordons winebar.com. 47 Villiers St, WC2N 6NE. T: 0207930 1408. E8. Station: Embankment.

A novel idea With its quaint garden squares and distinctly village feel, it’s hard to believe that Bloomsbury is in central London. In The Bloomsbury Club Bar, a magical new drinking spot split into two areas, you’ll find a stylish low-lit bar, while outside there’s a heated terrace full of lights and cushioned nooks and crannies. Inspired by the area’s former residents – the ‘Bloomsbury Set’ – the menu reads like a who’s who of the 1920s and 30s, and includes cocktails named after painter Vanessa Bell and writer Virginia Woolf. 16-22 Great Russell St, WC1B 3NN. T: 020-7347 1222. www.doylecollection.com. C8. Station: Russell Square

the bloomsbury club bar © Simon Brown

Freedom

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19/09/2016 10:50

SPAS & SALONS | THE GUIDE

Clockwise from top left: K West Spa treatment room; K West Spa Sun Meadow room; relax in one of the spa’s cabins Inset: K West Wet Spa

Let there be light Let’s be honest, London is not the sunniest place in the world. And with one in three people suffering from SAD (seasonal affective disorder), which is also known as ‘winter depression’, the last thing you want is for your trip to be a gloomy experience. SAD symptoms start in the autumn and get more severe during December, January and February. The lack of sunlight stops a part of the brain (hypothalamus) from working properly, affecting the production of melatonin and serotonin. This affects the body’s internal clock, so if you are suffering from jetlag, the problem becomes more acute. Due to the shorter days, you can become increasingly lethargic and find it harder to get up in the morning. One of the best treatments is light therapy, where a light box is used to simulate exposure to sunlight. In Scandinavia there are light cafés, and now light rooms are opening in London too. Research has shown that light therapy is more effective when the treatment takes place in the morning.

K West Spa, near Shepherd’s Bush, has created a Sun Meadow Treatment Room, which mimics natural daylight. De-stressing beams of light are dispensed from the ceiling. The low-intensity ultraviolet light safely stimulates the skin’s melanin levels, encouraging the production of vitamin D and releasing serotonin. The lights help those suffering from eczema, psoriasis and arthritis. Plus, the sunken bed makes this a sleep-inducing space. While you are at the spa, you can also make use of its other facilities: Jacuzzi, steam rooms

and, most impressively, the Snow Paradise room where the temperature is -15 degrees Celsius. Alternate between the steam and ice to help stimulate circulation. Ajala Spa, which specialises in Oriental and Hawaiian techniques, has branches across the City. The branch near St Paul’s Cathedral stands out, however, as it has a Zen Sun Therapy Lounge. The lounge safely replicates natural sunlight using infra-red heat, so there is no risk of skin damage from UV rays. There are different settings in the spa for the sun room, mimicking different places around the world – Miami at midday or Bali at sunset? The room can be booked for half an hour or one hour, and has proved popular with nearby City workers. Look out for offers that combine use of the room with a massage. Here definitely comes the sun... K West Spa, Richmond Way, W14 0AX. T: 020-8008 6600. www.k-west.co.uk. Ajala Spa St Paul’s, 10 Godliman St, EC4V 5AJ. T: 020-7074 1030. www.ajalaspa.com

all images courtesy of k west spa

What London lacks in sunshine, it makes up for with its culture. Now, thanks to sun rooms that provide treatment for SAD sufferers by mimicking the sun’s rays, you can top up your vitamin D, says Kohinoor Sahota

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all images courtesy of k west spa

FOR MORE LISTINGS, VISIT wheretraveler.com

T: Telephone number. Station: including Underground (’Tube‘), railway and Docklands Light Railway. References at the end of listings (A1; B5 etc.) refer to coordinates on map on p. 72-73

Spas Aveda Institute Full-service salon offering cuts, colour, blow-drying and botanical treatments using Aveda’s plant-based products. Beauty and spa treatments available, and there’s a special barber and grooming service for men. www.avedainstitute.co.uk. 174 High Holborn, WC1V 7AA. T: 020-7759 7355. D8. Station: Holborn.

Bamford Haybarn Spa This relaxing day spa has a holistic approach to wellbeing, using botanical products including Oskia facials. www.the-berkeley.co.uk. The Berkeley hotel, Wilton Place, SW1X 7RL. T: 020-7201 1699. F6. Station: Knightsbridge.

Beauty Rooms at Fortnum & Mason Offers waxing, Sisley and Environ facials and nail treatments. Special packages include the Flagging Shopper, a foot and back massage. www.fortnumandmason.com. 181 Piccadilly, W1A 1ER. T: 020-7973 4094. E7. Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Blue Harbour Health Club & Spa Swim in the 56ft pool, unwind in the sauna, steam room and relaxation suite or get a hair treatment. There is a choice of massages available. www.blueharbourspa.co.uk. Chelsea Harbour Drive, SW10 0XG. T: 020-7300 5011. Off map. Station: Imperial Wharf.

Brown’s Hotel An oasis of calm in the West End, boasting a premium selection of treatments, facials and massages for men, women and children. Products used include Carita and Spiezia Organics. www.brownshotel.com. Albemarle St, W1S 4BP. T: 020-7518 4009. E7. Station: Green Park.

Chuan Spa Step inside this luxury spa, which uses the principles of Chinese medicine to rebalance your mind, body and spirit. www.chuanspa.com. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent St, W1B 1JA. T: 020-7973 7550. D6. Station: Oxford Circus.

Elemis Day Spa Situated in the heart of Mayfair, this spa has been designed to stimulate all the senses, with treatments ranging from anti-ageing facials to hands-on body therapies and detox programmes. www.elemis. com/dayspa. 2-3 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EX. T: 020-7499 4995. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Gentlemen’s Tonic Stylish gentlemen-only grooming establishment with barber shop, body, skin and lifestyle treatments and a full range of products. Also available at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel. www.gentlemens tonic.com. 31a Bruton Place, W1J 6NN. T: 0207297 4343. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Mandarin Oriental

One Aldwych This spa offers more than 50 personalised treatments, ranging from massages to beauty treats from brands such as Natura Bissé. Excellent health club and pool. www.onealdwych.com. One Aldwych, WC2B 4BZ. T: 020-7300 0600. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

The Refinery London’s first men-only spa has treatments ranging from a traditional Hair of the Dog shave to full-blown luxury facials and deep-tissue massage. Also available at Harrods. www.the-refinery.com. 60 Brook St, W1K 5DU. T: 020-7409 2001. E6. Station: Bond Street.

The Spa at Dolphin Square Moroccan-inspired luxury from a team of spa mentors, offering a treatment menu including massage and traditional hammam exfoliation with a Kessa glove and black soap. www.dolphinsquare. co.uk/spa. Chichester St, SW1V 3LX. T: 020-7798 6767. Off map. Station: Pimlico.

AVENA MASSAGE by qualiﬁed female masseuse.

Total relaxation, revitalising massage. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel, home or our studio on:

07879 697478

Spa Illuminata Enjoy the aromatherapy expertise of Carita, Decléor and Environ in this holistic skin and body-care haven. www.spailluminata.com. 63 South Audley St, W1K 2QS. T: 020-7499 7777. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Urban Retreat at Harrods Enjoy myriad beauty treatments including massages, paraffin wax treatments and haircare, using top products. www.urbanretreat.co.uk. Fifth floor, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd, SW1X 7XL. T: 020-7893 8333. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

Ushvani This plush, highly regarded day spa for massages and facials is an oasis of tranquility in Chelsea. Couples should book the Asmara Suite, which is decorated with Malaysian furnishings and intricate carvings. www.ushvani.com. 1 Cadogan Gardens, SW3 2RJ. T: 020-7730 2888. G5. Station: Sloane Square.

Late appointments available

De-stress, re-energising

MASSAGE

By qualified female masseuse.

DISCREET QUALITY SERVICE, OPEN LATE Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or home. Alternatively, we welcome customers at our Mayfair Studio.

Salons Geo F Trumper This traditional barber shop in the heart of Mayfair offers wet shaves, toiletries and accessories for an elegant result. www.trumpers.com. 9 Curzon St, W1J 5HQ. T: 020-7499 1850. E6. Station: Green Park.

Hershesons Blow Dry Bar At this trendy hairdresser to the stars, you can ask for your favourite fashion-forward look from a menu and a stylist will recreate it in under 30 minutes. www.hershesons.com. Selfridges, 400 Oxford St, W1A 1AB. T: 020-7493 1600. E6. Station: Bond Street.

Tel: 07827 301 930 M T as ha sa i ge

Jo Hansford

A luxury spa inspired by Chinese massage methods. There is also a menu designed specifically for men and a well-equipped fitness centre. www.mandarin oriental.com. 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA. T: 020-7235 2000. F5. Station: Knightsbridge.

This hair colour salon is home to top stylists, and renowned also for its colour correction work. The spa also offers manicure and pedicure treatments as well as massages and reflexology. www.johansford.com. 48 South Audley St, W1K 2QB. T: 020-7495 7774. E6. Station: Marble Arch.

Mandara Spa

Windle & Moodie

Spa with a contemporary edge and a luxurious Asian touch. It has eight treatment rooms plus manicure and pedicure stations. www.mandaraspa.com. Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, 200 Westminster Bridge Rd, SE1 7UT. T: 020-7620 7300. F8. Station: Waterloo.

Award-winning full-service hair salon specialising in catwalk looks for the everyday woman. It uses Bumble & Bumble products. www.windleand moodie.com. 41 Shorts Gardens, WC2H 9AP. T: 020-7497 2393. D8. Station: Covent Garden.

Exhausted, Stressed, Jet-Lagged? Then why not relax with a traditional therapeutic Thai massage? Jade is a licensed and qualiﬁed Thai masseuse whose personalised, high-quality treatment is sure to bring your mind and body back into balance. Please call to book an appointment at your hotel or at her Chelsea studio.

Tel: 07894 700669 www.wheretraveler.com 69

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ESSENTIALS | THE GUIDE

Delivered to you by

TICKET INFORMATION Oyster cards & Travelcards The Where Pass is a contactless payment debit card, which you can use to hop on and off the transport system. See wherepasslondon.com. An Oyster card is a pre-paid travel smart card. It’s a cheap way to pay for single journeys by bus, Tube, tram, DLR, London Overground and most National Rail train services in London. You can buy a Visitor Oyster card before you leave home for a £3 fee and pre-load it with credit at visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk. The system has nine zones. Zone 1 is in central London. Visitors can buy Oyster cards and Day Travelcards from stations, Visitor Centres and any Oyster Ticket Shop. UK visitors can also pay for their travel with a UK-issued contactless payment card. See tfl.gov.uk/visitinglondon. Oyster cards offer a discount on Emirates Air Line and most river buses. See visitorshop.tfl.gov.uk.

! GES e CIER CON ut for th o f Look er issue o wint oncierge the c sletter E new SERVIC UR v O o Y AT om 4 N fr

For 24-hour travel information, visit the Transport for London (TfL) website tfl.gov.uk/ visitinglondon or call T: 0343-222 1234.

London Underground (The Tube)

AT YOUR SERVICE Where London is used by head concierges and their teams at 275 top hotels in the capital Tips from Theo Dubroy, head concierge at The Arch London What is London’s most romantic spot? Kensington Palace Gardens; the lovers’ arch and the flowerbeds by the palace.

Why is your hotel special? We have some bespoke British artwork in our 24-hour Martini Library. What is the strangest request you have received? Most guests ask for theatre tickets and restaurant bookings, but once a male guest requested women’s shoes in a size 14! What do you suggest visitors do if they have just one day in London? Start with a hop-on, hop-off bus tour or a private guide. If it’s rainy, visit The British Museum, then catch a musical such as Kinky Boots. If the weather is good then cycle west along the Thames and have lunch in Richmond. For a quintessential English experience, try traditional fish and chips at The Golden Hind on Marylebone Lane.

Any tips for repeat visitors? Walk along Regent’s Canal and visit the London Canal Museum to learn about the city’s waterways. What if you have children? Kids will love Hamleys toy shop, seeing the swans on The Serpentine lake and visiting the Natural History Museum. Harry Potter fans should tour Warner Bros Studio Tour London, while teens will love the shows In the Heights and Stomp.

What do you recommend beyond zone one? Travel by boat along the River Thames to Greenwich, which has a great market and is home to many museums, the Cutty Sark and the Royal Observatory. Share a hidden gem The Geffrye Museum in Hoxton – it looks into British living rooms, gardens and home life from 1600 to the present day. The Arch London, 50 Great Cumberland Place, W1H 7FD Clockwise from top left: Cutty Sark; Hamleys toy shop; Martini Library at The Arch London Inset: Theo Dubroy, head concierge at The Arch London

tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map (opposite). Services run Mon-Sat 5am-12.30am and Sun 7.30am-11.30pm on most routes. The night Tube service runs all night Fri-Sat on the Victoria and the Central lines. Fares vary; a Zone 1 adult fare costs £4.80 (£2.30 with an Oyster card).

London Buses London buses run 5am-12.30am. Night buses (midnight-4.30am) operate on main routes (several services are 24-hour). You can’t pay for a London bus fare with cash, so use a Visitor Oyster card, Oyster card, Travelcard, UK-issued contactless payment card or the Where Pass. Visit tfl.gov.uk/buses. Single fare is £1.50 with an Oyster card or UK-issued contactless payment card.

London Overground tfl.gov.uk. See London Underground map opposite. Trains run Mon-Sat 5am-midnight and Sun 7am-11.30pm on most routes.

Docklands Light Railway Trains run approximately every three-anda-half mins to 10 mins. Mon-Sat 5.30am-12.30am; Sun 7am-11pm. T: 020-7363 9700.

Trains Paddington serves the West Country, Wales and the South Midlands. Liverpool Street and Fenchurch Street serve East Anglia and Essex. Euston King’s Cross St Pancras Marylebone and St Pancras International (connects to King’s Cross St Pancras) serve north and central Britain, and southeast England. Charing Cross London Bridge Waterloo and Victoria serve southern England. For times and tickets, visit nationalrail.co.uk or call T: 0845-748 4950. Eurostar uses St Pancras International. Go to eurostar.com for more information, times and ticket prices. Call T: 0344-822 4777 (or if you’re outside the UK, call T: 01233-617 575).

CUTTY SARK © VISIT GREENWICH; HAMLEYS © CHLOE CAMPBELL; MARTINI LIBRARY AT THE ARCH LONDON COURTESY OF THE ARCH LONDON; THEO DUBROY COURTESY OF THE ARCH LONDON

GETTING AROUND

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CUTTY SARK © VISIT GREENWICH; HAMLEYS © CHLOE CAMPBELL; MARTINI LIBRARY AT THE ARCH LONDON COURTESY OF THE ARCH LONDON; THEO DUBROY COURTESY OF THE ARCH LONDON

ESSENTIALS

Same day luggage delivery between London’s airports and London locations. Visit portr.com and quote ‘ESSENTIALS’ for 10% discount.

Chesham

Chalfont & Latimer

Watford Junction

Chorleywood Rickmansworth

Headstone Lane

Northwood Hills

Ruislip

Hillingdon

Ruislip Manor Ickenham

Kenton

Harrowon-the-Hill

Preston Road

Brent Cross Golders Green

South Kenton

South Harrow

Neasden

Wembley Park

North Wembley

South Ruislip Sudbury Hill

Harlesden

Kensal Rise

Queen’s Park

Kilburn Park Maida Vale

Perivale

Brondesbury

North Ealing East Acton

6 5 4 3

North Acton

Shepherd’s Bush Market

South Acton

Goldhawk Road

Acton Town

Northfields Chiswick Park Boston Manor

Hounslow East

Kew Gardens

Hounslow West

Heathrow Terminal 5

West Kensington

Earl’s Court

South Kensington

District Hammersmith & City Jubilee Metropolitan Northern Piccadilly

Monument

Embankment

Westminster

London Bridge

Pimlico

Parsons Green

Southwark

Imperial Wharf

All Saints

Borough Lambeth North

East Putney

Kennington

Wandsworth Road

Clapham Junction

Oval Stockwell

Victoria Waterloo & City DLR Emirates Air Line cable car (Special fares apply) London Overground TfL Rail London Trams District open at weekends and on some public holidays

Denmark Hill

Step-free access from street to platform

National Rail Tooting Bec

Riverboat services Airport

Tooting Broadway

Merton Park

Colliers Wood

Victoria Coach Station

London Overground

South Tottenham to Barking No service from early June 2016 until February 2017. Gospel Oak to Barking No weekend service until February 2017. No weekday service from late September 2016 until February 2017.

Morden

Morden Road

Phipps Bridge

Belgrave Walk

Mitcham

Mitcham Junction

Beddington Lane

Therapia Lane

Ampere Way

Waddon Marsh

Wandle Park

Royal Victoria

Custom House for ExCeL

Emirates Royal Docks

Prince Regent Royal Albert Beckton Park

Emirates Greenwich Peninsula

Pontoon Dock

Cyprus

London City Airport

Gallions Reach Beckton

King George V

Mudchute

Greenwich

New Cross

Deptford Bridge Elverson Road

Penge West

Norwood Junction

Avenue Road

Wellesley Road George Street

Beckenham Junction

Harrington Road Elmers End Arena

Special fares apply

Woodside

West Croydon

Church Street

Beckenham Road

Birkbeck

Sydenham

Centrale

Woolwich Arsenal

Lewisham

Forest Hill

Reeves Corner

Canning Town

Island Gardens

Crystal Palace

South Wimbledon

Emirates Air Line cable car

Star Lane

Crossharbour

Anerley

Balham

West Ham

East India

North Greenwich

Brockley

Brixton

Clapham South

East Ham Upton Park Plaistow

West Silvertown

Honor Oak Park

Clapham Common

Dundonald Road

Step-free access from street to train

Barking

South Quay

Peckham Rye

Clapham North

Interchange stations

Becontree Upney

Abbey Road

Bromleyby-Bow

Blackwall

Heron Quays

New Cross Gate

Elephant & Castle

Wimbledon Park

Pudding Mill Lane

Cutty Sark for Maritime Greenwich

Queens Road Peckham

Vauxhall

Southfields

Stratford

Poplar

Surrey Quays

Dagenham East

Canary Wharf

Canada Water

Bermondsey

Elm Park

Woodgrange Park

Forest Gate

West India Quay

Rotherhithe

Upminster Bridge Hornchurch

Maryland

2/3

Langdon Park

Wapping

Upminster

Seven Kings Ilford

Manor Park

Stratford High Street

Bow Church

Devons Road

River Thames

West Brompton

Fulham Broadway

Tower Gateway

Goodmayes

Wanstead Park

Bow Road

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Shadwell

Tower Hill

Fenchurch Street

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Stepney Green

Emerson Park

Chadwell Heath

Newbury Park

Gants Hill

Leytonstone

Hackney Wick

Mile End

Limehouse

Temple

Clapham High Street

Circle

Cannon Street

Aldgate

Waterloo

Wimbledon

Central

Bank St. Paul’s

Mansion House

Charing Cross

Bethnal Green

Whitechapel

Wanstead

Leyton

Putney Bridge

Heathrow Terminal 4

Bakerloo

Chancery Lane

Leicester Square

Aldgate East

Liverpool Street

Romford

Barkingside

Redbridge

Leytonstone High Road

Gidea Park

Hainault Fairlop

Snaresbrook

Dagenham Heathway

Cambridge Heath

Bethnal Green

Brentwood

Harold Wood

South Woodford

Stratford International

Homerton

Shoreditch High Street

Barbican

Holborn

St. James’s Park

Sloane Square

Hoxton Old Street

Russell Square Goodge Street

St. James Street

Clapton

Hackney Central

Canonbury

Farringdon

Piccadilly Circus

Victoria

Rectory Road

4 3

Walthamstow Central

Leyton Midland Road

London Fields

Moorgate

Knightsbridge Gloucester Road

Dalston Kingsland

Haggerston

Covent Garden

High Street Kensington

Blackhorse Road

Hackney Downs

Caledonian Road & Barnsbury

Angel

Green Park

Tottenham Hale

Dalston Junction

Tottenham Court Road

Lancaster Gate

Highbury & Islington

Wood Street

Stamford Hill Walthamstow Queen’s Road Stoke Newington

Finsbury Park

King’s Cross St. Pancras

Euston Square

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Hyde Park Corner

Kensington (Olympia)

Richmond

Hatton Cross

Queensway

Barons Court

Turnham Stamford Ravenscourt Brook Park Green

Hounslow Central

Notting Hill Gate

Holland Park

Mornington Crescent

Regent’s Park

Bond Street

Marble Arch

Shepherd’s Bush

Hammersmith

Gunnersbury

Osterley

Heathrow Terminals 2 & 3

White City

Wood Lane

Acton Central

Ealing Common South Ealing

Bayswater

Camden Town

Warren Street

Westbourne Park

Latimer Road

Camden Road

Baker Great Portland Euston Street Street

Edgware Road

Ladbroke Grove

Arsenal

Kentish Town

Chalk Farm

St. John’s Wood

Warwick Avenue

Park Royal

Swiss Cottage

Marylebone

Edgware Road

Royal Oak

West Acton

Upper Holloway

Grange Hill

Shenfield

Chigwell Woodford

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Seven Sisters

Holloway Road

Caledonian Road

Finchley Road

South Hampstead

Harringay Green Lanes

Manor House

Tufnell Park Kentish Town West

Roding Valley Highams Park

White Hart Lane

Wood Green

Buckhurst Hill

Edmonton Green

Turnpike Lane

Archway

Belsize Park

West Hampstead

Kilburn High Road Paddington

Hanger Lane

Ealing Broadway

Finchley Road & Frognal

Kilburn Brondesbury Park

Kensal Green Alperton Greenford

Highgate

Loughton Chingford

Silver Street

Crouch Hill

Gospel Oak

Hampstead Heath

Hampstead

Willesden Green

Stonebridge Park

Willesden Junction

Sudbury Town

Finchley Central East Finchley

Dollis Hill

Wembley Central

Northolt

Hendon Central

Kingsbury

Southgate Arnos Grove

West Finchley

Bounds Green

Colindale

Queensbury

Northwick Park

West Harrow

Mill Hill East

Burnt Oak

Canons Park

North Harrow

Rayners Lane

Ruislip Gardens

Stanmore

Harrow & Wealdstone

Pinner

Eastcote

Edgware

Turkey Street Southbury

Special fares apply

Epping Theydon Bois Debden

Oakwood

Woodside Park

Hatch End

Northwood

Theobalds Grove

Bush Hill Park

Cockfosters

Totteridge & Whetstone

Carpenders Park Moor Park

8 7

Cheshunt Enfield Town

High Barnet Bushey

Croxley

West Ruislip

Uxbridge

Watford High Street

Watford

Amersham

8 7 6

Special fares apply

Blackhorse Lane Addiscombe

Lebanon Road East Croydon

Sandilands

Lloyd Park Coombe Lane

Gravel Hill

Addington Village

Fieldway

King Henry’s Drive

New Addington

Services for these stations are subject to variation. Please search ‘TfL stations’ for full details.

*Service and network charges may apply. See tfl.gov.uk/terms for details.

Improvement works may affect your journey, please check before you travel

Taxis You can hail a black cab (taxi) in the street. Fares increase after 8pm. You cannot hail private-hire or minicabs, which you must book. We strongly advise against you using any vehicle that approaches you in the street, except for licensed black cabs. For more information, visit tfl.gov.uk.

Car hire Make sure your driving licence is valid for the UK and see ‘Congestion Charge’ below. Hertz: T: 0870-844 8844. hertz.co.uk. Kendall Cars Ltd: T: 020-8542 0403. kendallcars.com. Enterprise Rent-A-Car: T: 0800-800 227. enterprise.co.uk.

Congestion Charge There is a congestion charge to drive into central London, Mon-Fri 7am-6pm. Payable in advance or on the day of travel (£11.50), or the day after (£14). UK: T: 034-3222 2222. International: T: +44 20-7649 9122. cclondon.com.

On foot It’s often quicker to get around London by walking. Look out for blue and yellow Legible London street maps. tfl.gov.uk/legiblelondon.

Santander Cycles There are 11,500 bicycles for hire from 750 docking stations throughout central London. For details, visit tfl.gov.uk/santandercycles or call T: 034-3222 6666.

Version J1 TfL 06.2016

Correct at time of going to print

Coaches London’s main coach services use Victoria Coach Station, SW1W 9TP. T: 0843-222 1234. Victoria. tfl.gov.uk/coaches

River services tfl.gov.uk/river MBNA Thames Clippers: T: 020-7001 2200. thamesclippers.com. Catamarans leave major piers every 20 mins. Services run between Waterloo Pier and The O2 (North Greenwich Pier) and on to Royal Arsenal Woolwich Pier, stopping at 20 main piers. Discounts on adult single fare with an Oyster, Visitor Oyster or contactless card. River Roamer day pass gives unlimited hop-on, hop-off travel from £17.35.

Emirates Air Line cable car London’s only cable car runs between Greenwich Peninsula (The O2) and the Royal Docks (ExCel London). tfl.gov.uk/emiratesairline.

Accessible London Deaf and disabled travellers should visit DisabledGo at visitlondon.com/access and openbritain.net.

AirPortr (Luggage delivery service) PASS PARTNER Same-day luggage transfer between London’s airports and hotels – travel bag-free and make the most of your time here. Prices start at £15 for one bag plus £10 for each additional item (any size or weight). T: 020-3384 6677. portr.com.

Where Pass

The city of London is a magnificent place, bursting with things to see and do. The all-new Where Pass makes experiencing London convenient and hassle-free for travellers. Incorporating the latest in contactless debit card technology, users of the Where Pass are able to travel around using the public transport system, enjoy shopping and dining throughout the city, and gain discounted access into top attractions. Immerse yourself in everything London has to offer with the Where Pass – visit www.wherepasslondon.com for details. www.wheretraveler.com 71

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Where NOW | Carlos Acosta

My London

DANCER & CHOREOGRAPHER Carlos Acosta is a former Royal Ballet Principal Guest Artist. Famed for his Cuban flair, he has danced the biggest roles with the greatest names. This month, he prepares to retire from classical ballet with a farewell performance. He lives in Somerset but is often in London Where would you go for breakfast? I really like The Breakfast Club on Camden Passage in Angel. What buildings do you like? There are just so many. I’m very fond of St Pancras International station – it’s a really imposing, wonderful building. And I love the Royal Opera House, of course. What are your favourite galleries? I like the Tate Modern, as the spaces are very generous – the gallery’s so big and there’s a lot going on there. Also, the Serpentine Gallery is always showing cool stuff. Where do you go shopping? I really like London’s little local shops. I don’t enjoy shopping that much, but once in a while, when I have to, I prefer to go to small stores. Do you have a favourite green space? It has to be Regent’s Park. Where do you like to have lunch? Definitely Frederick’s in Islington – I’d choose the Dover sole, it’s amazing. How do you relax and reflect? One of the spots that I used to go to a lot is Bar Italia in Soho. I would have a cappuccino and watch the world go by. There’s an eclectic crowd in that area, which I love. Also, the Royal Festival Hall is wonderful – on a sunny day, it’s great to walk along the South Bank.

Is there a place that holds a special memory for you? In Angel there was a Cuban bar that I used to frequent when I first arrived in London in 1998. It was an iconic bar, and it served amazing Cuban food. I used to meet up with my friends there – it was kind of a home away from home. I was very young, so I have many memories of it. It’s closed now, sadly, but it was my first real introduction to the city. I danced so much, especially after a few mojitos, which were served in jars.

How do you prefer to travel around the city? I usually like travelling by Tube, but if you want to experience real London transport, it’s got to be a black cab. They’re iconic and the cab drivers are very wise.

Where would you go for afternoon tea? I’d make it a picnic afternoon tea on the grass – somewhere around Hampstead Heath.

Do you have a favourite hotel? I’d love to stay in The Dorchester hotel on Park Lane – it seems like such a great place.

Where do you stop to have a drink in the evening? The private members’ club, The Groucho Club – there’s a great crowd there. I know people from my industry who’ve been going there for a long time. These days, I’m trying not to overdo it but occasionally I like to pop in there and just see how everyone is doing.

What makes London stand out from the rest of the world? There is a very harmonious co-existence between all races and people from different backgrounds in London. The people are very sympathetic about everything, regardless of where you come from. People are cultured, which is really wonderful and essential for an artist. At some point the best are gonna pass through here – the best of the best in every field. It’s a key place to be. Carlos Acosta: The Classical Farewell. 3-7 Oct. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington Gore, SW7 2AP. T: 020-7589 8212. www.royalalberthall.com

If you could take anyone from history out to dinner, who would it be and where? My father and mother passed away about five years ago, so it would be really cool to take them to this place called the Walled Garden. It’s not in London, as it is near my house in Somerset, but it’s a magical place, and they could meet my daughter. That would make me very happy.

Would you do anything extravagant? I’d love to fly over London in my own plane or helicopter and maybe land on the river like James Bond, but in ballet tights – that would be wonderful!

Clockwise from top left: St Pancras International station; Carlos Acosta; The Dorchester; Bar Italia; The Groucho Club

st pancras international station © istock; carlos acosta © Andrej Uspenski; the dorchester © Niall Clutton; bar italia © istock; the groucho club © richard@lewisohn.co.uk

Carlos Acosta

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