ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY
JANUARY 2018 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
Venice
www.where-venice.com
YOUR
C IT GUID Y E
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WELCOME You’re in the ‘capital’ of 2018 EU-China Tourism Year
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS
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®
Venice January 2018 10
the guide
ENTERTAINMENT
56
FOCUS
20 SHOPPING
Head to Pot-Pourrì, an original concept store that tempts shoppers into an unexpected dream-like world
BAGARON C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
40 DINING
Glam, the brand new sophisticated restaurant on the Grand Canal, was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017 50 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS
Parco San Giuliano
GIFT GUIDE
56 ENTERTAINMENT
Salvadori Diamond Atelier
The city's passion for antiques is embedded within its soul.
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Palazzo Genovese
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Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
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Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
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Canal Grande
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Palazzo Grimani
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Giudecca Hilton
LARGA
LE
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Palazzo Loredan
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FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
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Palazzo Fortuny
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IA
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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
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DE
Sant'Angelo
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
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Palazzo Giustinian Persico
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TA
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Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
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DO
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CAL
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CALL
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CALL
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Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
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CALLE DELL'OLIO
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TERA’
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DAM
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CAL
I
MADON
LA
NA
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
I
CH
CAL
PAZ CAM
LE CAL
LE
DE
A A MART SANT
CA
E
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FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL
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CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
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Rio
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AM
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The monumental Rialto Bridge and its surroundings.
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19 January 2018, Palazzo Ducale. Inaugural event of EU-China Tourism Year
32 TOP ANTIQUES
Look among the city’s innumerable literary sources for a special guide while visiting Venice.
BE
COVER
OF THE WRITTEN WORD
LE
w w w. w he re t rave le r. com I
Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer
DE
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS
10 VENICE, IN SEARCH
58 ESSENTIALS
E
You’re in the ‘capital’ of 2018 EU-China Tourism Year
A pick of large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries.
LL
WELCOME
30 ART GALLERIES
DELLE
’
LL
TA
This month's round-up of shows, PORTO MARGHERA art exhibitions, and music.
RO
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6 HOT DATES
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Contents
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AMEN
18
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The great heart of Venice, the Basilica di San Marco, welcomes worshippers and tourists alike
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On 8 January, Venice commemorates the anniversary of the death of Marco Polo, the famous Venetian explorer whose travels helped to develop trade relationships between China and Europe. Almost 747 years have passed since his first voyage to China. It is not surprising that Venice has been chosen (from 19 January and throughout 2018) as the European capital of Chinese tourism. The inaugural event of ‘EU-China Tourism Year’ is scheduled to be held at Palazzo Ducale (and streaming live from the Casinò at ecty2018.org) and will be marked by the arrival of 400 Chinese delegates who will participate in meetings with highranking European government officials. Events will continue to take place throughout 2018, ranging from cultural activities to business opportunities. The main theme of this initiative is to increase awareness about the massive impact that China has on tourism. China represents the largest and fastest growing international market for the tourist industry. In 2016, Europe’s 26 Schengen countries issued 2.1 million tourist visas to Chinese travelers who generated 21% of all revenues associated with tourism worldwide. If you’re one of these travelers, we’re glad you’re here! We hope you will feel welcome in this city that has held a deep admiration and respect for your culture for almost eight centuries. 1月8日星期一是马可•波罗的逝世纪念日，威尼斯整座城市都会纪念 这位杰出的公民——他不仅是一位伟大的探险家，同时也是中欧友谊之 父。在747年前他踏上了前往亚洲的征途，此种壮举在当时那个年代几 乎是难以想象的。得益于这样的传统，威尼斯被选为（从1月19日开始 至2018整个年度的）迎接中国游客的欧洲之都也就不足为奇了。在“中 欧旅游年”(ecty2018.org) 的开幕式上（开幕式于威尼斯总督宫举行， 并有来自威尼斯赌场的线上直播），将会有超过400名中国代表出席， 与欧洲各高层机构会见；不过，不管是文化活动还是商业契机，都会在 随后的2018一整年中继续下去。此次盛会亦是吸引了各界的关注，因为 不管从任何角度来讲，中国都代表了全球最大的旅游业市场，并且保持 着持续的增长。2016年，欧洲（申根国家）共给中国游客发放了210万 个旅游签证，而这些游客给全球旅游业贡献了21%的产值。如果你们是 这其中的一部分，那么请像在家中一样自在！在八个世纪来一直被中国 文化吸引的这样一座城市里，你们就是最受欢迎的客人！ w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3
[ SIGHTSEEING]
Top in town
Palazzo Ducale
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4
CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima.
PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can
4 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as
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Police T: 113 Ambulance T: 118 Fire brigade T: 115 Traffic Police T: 041 2747070 Lost and Found on Vaporetti T: 041 2722179 24-hour pharmacy: check the display at all pharmacies.
ESSENTIALS
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Tourist Information
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Getting around
APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia.it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711.
International Marco Polo di Tessera Airport (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Airports
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Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel.
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Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower
PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. Its interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4
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Hundertwasser' Garden
MORE AT PAGE 50 MAP PAGES 62-63 ISOLA LA GRAZIA
PHOTO © VELA
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
JANUARY
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
6 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
JANUARY
ENTERTAINMENT
27 13
CARNIVAL, THE HIGHLIGHT OF THE YEAR
From Saturday 27 January to Tuesday 13 February, Venice will come alive with parades, concerts, performances and grand balls. Carnival is an event involving months of preparation, which the locals consider a part of their identity… ultimately they manage to transform these into occasions of such importance that they attract visitors from all over the world. Prepare your masks and enjoy the party!
JANUARY
FEBRUARY
On Saturday 27 January, the annual Carnival of Venice kicks off in the district of Rio di Cannaregio with the "Festa Veneziana on the Water", a spectacular free water show which, each year, attracts thousands of spectators – repeat performances are held at 6pm and 8pm. This spectacular show, celebrating the carnival theme of ‘Beauty, the Sea and Vanity’, is performed on floating structures amidst an explosion of images and music. Festivities continue on Sunday 28 January at 11am with a water parade by Venice’s Rowing Association and food and wine tours featuring local Venetian specialties. www.carnevale.venezia.it w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES ART GLASS
8 15
GLASS BEADS – A PERFECT BLEND OF INNOVATION OF CREATIVITY
► Mosaic beads, blown beads, lampwork beads, beads with eyes, in spiral , flag, monochrome, feathered forms, with murrine inserts, with eyes, dotted, sinusoidal, comb, wrapped or figural… the world of glass beads is truly unique. Not only decorative objects but also valuable trading goods exported in large quantities during the 19th century to the colonies of West Africa, India and the Americas. An exhibition at the Glass Museum in Murano offers visitors insight into the multi-faceted world of these small, precious artefacts of rare beauty. Artefacts that have long been a part of Venice’s glassmaking history and still today represent a lively and important production.
DECEMBER 2017
APRIL 2018
The World in a Glass Bead. The Murano Glass Bead Collection 1820-1890. Murano, Museo del Vetro (Spazio Conterie). museovetro.visitmuve.it
TRADITION
14 28 JANUARY
JANUARY
STORIES OF WOMEN DURING THE SHOAH ► Each year, the Jewish Museum features a special exhibition to mark Memorial Day (27 January). This year the focus is on women in the Shoah. Conceived by the Yad Vashem institute in Jerusalem and curated by the ‘Figli della Shoah’ association, the exhibition probes the uniquely harrowing and heroic stories of Jewish women during the Shoah, highlighting aspects of their daily lives - love, motherhood, caretaking, resistance, femininity, friendship, struggle, food and art. The exhibition, titled ‘Spots of Lights’, is scheduled to run from 14 to 28 January: this is a really worthwhile opportunity to plan a return trip to the Ghetto of Venice which, two years ago, commemorated its 500th anniversary. Open Sun-Fri, 10am-5.30pm.
Spots of Lights. Women during the Shoah Jewish Museum of Venice. Campo di Ghetto Novo, 2902/b. www.museoebraico
OUT OF TOWN
27 25 OCTOBER 2017
MARCH 2018
ITALIAN ARTISTIC JEWELS The Museo del Gioiello (Jewelry Museum) in Vicenza is the first in Italy and one of the few in the world dedicated exclusively to jewellery. This unique 450 sq.m. space, designed by Patricia Urquiola, is housed inside Vicenza’s Basilica Palladiana, which recently inaugurated its second exhibition edition (2017-2018). An artistic project curated by 10 new international curators which highlights the culture of the area and aims to promote the fabric of jewelry production that has made Vicenza the ‘capital of jewelry’. The ‘Precious links’ exhibition (on show until 25 March) pays tribute to the chain, a common element both in ancient and contemporary jewellery and includes modern jewellery from leading Italian gold art companies and contemporary Italian designers. Precious links Vicenza, Basilica Palladiana. Piazza dei Signori, 44. www.museodelgioiello.it
Vhernier, Doppio Senso, 2009.
8 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
JANUARY SPORT
ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE
20 21
THE QUEEN OF SPEED
▼ During the third week of January, Cortina d’Ampezzo, the Queen of the Dolomites (just 2 hours from Venice), is set to host the Women’s Alpine Skiing World Cup, one of JANUARY JANUARY the most thrilling events on the international skiing events calendar. The competition will be held on the Olympia slope of the Tofane where the world’s top athletes will battle it out for a win during the fearsome Downhill (Saturday) and the Super G (Sunday). An action-packed weekend of high-octane sport and entertainment for ski enthusiasts of all ages.
Audi FIS Ski World Cup-Cortina 2018. www.cortinaclassic.com
JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert (1 January) > Myung-Whun Chung is to conduct the 15th edition of the New Year’s Concert. Regata delle Befane > 6 January FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice (27 January-13 February) > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. On Saturday 27, the “Festa Veneziana” (Carnival Grand Opening). APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark (25 April) > In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial (28 April) > Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale Architettura 2018 (26 May-25 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > The 16th International Architecture Exhibition is organized by La Biennale di Venezia and curated by Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara. Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 13 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony
EXHIBITION
4 28 NOVEMBER 2017
JANUARY 2018
ONE HUNDRED YEARS OF PORTO MARGHERA ► This exhibition, hosted at the Doge’s Palace, explores the crucial role played by Porto Marghera, Venice’s Harbour and one of the most important industrial and commercial sites in Europe. One hundred years after its foundation, this show marks the high point of the events organised by the city for the 100th anniversary of its port. A unique opportunity to visit the luxurious settings of the Doge’s Apartments and gain insight into Venice’s relationship with the sea, a bond that has shaped the city’s persona throughout history.
PORTO MARGHERA 100 Palazzo Ducale. Piazza San Marco, 1. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 44th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. Feast of San Piero de Casteo (24 June-1 July) Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer (15 July) > One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (29 August-8 September) > The 75th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia. Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (2 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Jacopo Tintoretto Great Exhibition > (7 September 2018-6 January 2019) > To celebrate the 500th anniversary of the birth of Venetian artist Jacopo Tintoretto. The Venice Glass Week (9-16 September) OCTOBER Venice Fashion Week (20-27 October) Venicemarathon (21 October) NOVEMBER Teatro La Fenice - Concert Season Opening (2 November ) Festa della Salute (21 November) > A popular religious feast day. Teatro La Fenice - Opera and Ballet Season Opening (End of November) DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Long before movies, which continue to show the beauty and charm of the city, painters and writers lovingly represented Venice. It was a source of admiration and awe, and a stopover on the Grand Tour where young aristocrats discovered Italy. Numerous important writers set their works in Venice, while others attempted to describe it. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Venice, in search of the written word The famous Hotel Danieli, for centuries a favourite haunt of lovers. On the right, a page from ‘Lettere di una viaggiatrice’ (‘Letters of a Traveler’) where, in a series of literary references, Italian novelist Matilde Serao (1856-1927) describes the hotel as the place where the scandalous love story between French novelists George Sand (1804-1876) and Alfred de Musset (1810-1857) occurred.
10 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
PHOTO © SVIDA
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f you’re planning a trip to Venice, look among innumerable literary sources for a special guide that will help you discover its mysteries. And, if you wish to preserve the memory of its marvels on your return home, here is a small selection of must-reads to keep on your bedside table.
LOVE STORIES IN VENICE With its canals, graceful bridges and secluded squares, Venice is the perfect backdrop for love stories. You can peruse the tormented and intriguing comedies written by Venetian playwright Carlo Goldoni. And, when in Venice, it is impossible not to think about the amorous adventures of Giacomo Casanova (17251798), whose memoirs provide us with a wealth of details about Palazzo Ducale and its prisons where the adventurer was imprisoned on charges of magic and masonry. Those wishing to learn more about the atmosphere of the city should make sure to read his book titled ‘The Story of my Escape: from the prisons of the Republic of Venice otherwise known as “The Leads”’. Alternately, details of his innumerable amorous escapades can be found in ‘The Memoirs of Giacomo Casanova’. Our journey takes us from the 18th century to the 19th century, when Camillo Boito, the author of ‘Senso’, tells us about the love story between Venetian Contessa Livia and the handsome Austrian lieutenant Remigio (Luchino Visconti’s famous film is based on an adaptation of Boito’s novella). In his famous novel titled ‘Death in Venice’, Thomas Mann (1875-1955) tells the story of a middle-aged writer who falls
PHOTO MANDRIAPIX © SHUTTERSTOCK
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
obsessively in love with a young boy. This deeply moving story takes us to the Lido of Venice at the beginning of the 20th century. Count Gustav von Aschenbach’s passion for the adolescent Tazio unfolds amidst the sumptuous setting of the Hotel Des Bains (which is no more since quietly closing its doors in 2010), and the beaches of the Hotel Excelsior and the Alberoni. This is a unique opportunity to rediscover the lavish early 20th century Belle Epoque settings of Venice’s celebrated Lido. On the other hand, the Hotel Danieli was the place where the scandalous love affair between George Sand and Alfred De Musset occurred. Their letters are filled with rapturous references to the hotel and Venetian life, which totally captivated their hearts. When not locked in each others arms, they would spend their time looking out of the hotel’s windows at the bustling Riva degli Schiavoni below. VENETIAN LEGENDS AND STORIES With its centuries of history, Venice is inevitably the protagonist of legends and fantasy, a font of popular beliefs, topographical details and the life of entire ‘sestieri’ (districts). Alberto Toso Fei is a name which many people associate with anecdotes, ghost stories and legends about Venice. ‘Mysteries of Venice. Seven Nights of History and Myth. Legends, Ghosts, Enigmas and Curiosities’ enables readers to discover a mysterious, nocturnal Venice, a nighttime excursion without the uninterrupted daytime 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
Above: the Bridge of Sighs and the ‘Piombi’ prison where Giacomo Casanova, one of history’s most notorious playboys, was imprisoned. The details of his daring escape are documented in his book titled ‘The Story of my Escape’ (on the left, an illustration from the ancient edition). At the side, the statue of ‘Signor Rioba’ who, according to legend, was punished by being turned into stone. Historical anecdotes about Venice are featured in a book by 51 year-old Venetian novelist Alberto Toso Fei.
flow of tourists. Finally, this is the first book of its kind to feature QR codes (which may be scanned for access to additional multimedia content), making it possible to relive some of the stories on video, narrated on location by the author himself. Furthermore, his book ‘Venetian legends and ghost stories’ can be used as a guide while strolling through Venice’s ‘sestieri’ and following four itineraries amidst the city’s squares and labyrinthine ‘calli’. The author describes the places where crimes were committed, and where the ghosts of the murdered people are still believed to wander. Several Venetian tourist agencies offer tours following the itineraries outlined in these books. CRIME NOVELS The city’s mazelike ‘calli’ and ‘campielli’ serve as a perfect backdrop for thrillers and crime
novels set in Venice. Best known are the series of murder mysteries by Donna Leon. Her Commissario Guido Brunetti is the protagonist of novels set in Venice which, despite its reputation as a safe city, can be the scene of crimes and the discovery of bodies in its canals. Places often mentioned in her novels include the ‘Questura’ overlooking Rio San Lorenzo – the area’s neighbouring restaurants and bars are frequently visited by the ‘Commissario’ – and the ‘Ospedale Civile di Venezia ai Santi Giovanni e Paolo’ where the commissioner often goes to conduct his interrogations (we recommend a visit to the beautiful Scuola Grande di San Marco, the headquarters of the hospital). In addition to above, her novels also feature interesting references to other Venetian landmarks, and are an excellent means of boning up on the artistic history of the city.
Before being a film by Luchino Visconti, ‘Death in Venice’ is a novella by Thomas Mann. Originally published in 1912 (above), Mann drew inspiration for the book while holidaying in Venice. Most of the scenes described in his short story are set at the Hotel des Bains. Below: water colour illustrations of Venice by famous Japanese Manga artist Jirô Taniguchi who died in February 2017. Bottom: since 1992, Donna Leon has written detective stories set in Venice, where she now lives. At the author’s specific request, none of her thrillers are translated into Italian.
An interesting fact: none of Leon’s novels are translated in Italian. Rumour has it that Donna Leon is afraid of attracting too much attention in this city where she has lived for so many years. Another particularly noteworthy book is Patricia Highsmith’s ‘The Talented Mr. Ripley’. The multiple locations mentioned in the novel include Venice, which is a luxurious hideaway and the perfect place to bury secrets and hide identities. Many novels, like Jason Goodwin’s ‘The Bellini Card’, are set in the 19th century. The book, which references Italian painter Gentile Bellini, features an exciting meld of Venetian and oriental atmospheres because everything begins in Constantinople. Others, like Tiziano Scarpa’s ‘Stabat Mater’, takes us back to the era and music of Antonio Vivaldi.
VENICE IN PICTURES Did you know that in addition to books, Venice has also been portrayed in comic books? Among these, one of the most noteworthy is Hugo Pratt’s Corto Maltese, the hero of numerous stories and comics set in Venice. To discover the places mentioned in the stories of Corto Maltese, we recommend ‘The secret Venice of Corto Maltese. Fantastic and hidden itineraries’ by Vianello and Fuga. This is a real almanac of Venetian places seen through the eyes of the famous comic book character, such as the celebrated ‘Corte Sconta detta Arcana’. Another means of exploring Venice through images is offered by Jirô Taniguchi with his ‘Louis Vuitton Travel Book’. The famous Japanese Manga artist transforms his stay in Venice into the story of a man in search of his roots. It’s told through watercolour illustrations offering readers a w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13
WHERE NOW | FOCUS poignant and contemporary vision of the marvels of Venice. Autographed copies of the book can be purchased at the Vuitton boutique in St. Mark’s Square. Also available in graphic novel form is Shakespeare’s famous work, ‘The Merchant of Venice’. The idea of retelling Shakespeare’s compelling story in picture book form was conceived by John F. McDonald, the author of ‘The Merchant of Venice: The Graphic Novel’. Shakespeare’s spellbinding story, also featured in numerous films, is presented in the guise of a comic book infused with all the drama of the original play. Those wishing to experience the evocative atmospheres and places in which the masterpiece is set should definitely make a point of visiting the Jewish ghetto of Venice.
THE GENIUS OF GRAPHIC NOVELS Corto Maltese, a cult figure of Europe’s best-loved graphic novel, invented by Italian comic book writer Hugo Pratt in 1967, has always been enamoured of the Lagoon city. Many of the places described in his ‘Fable of Venice’ are easily recognizable and include the ‘Corte’, referred to as the ‘Arcana’, located just steps from the Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo (above).
What’s the best souvenir to remind you of your trip to Venice? Purchasing a book from the Acqua Alta bookstore will heighten your experience. Acqua Alta is one of the most unique bookstores in the world. The first sight that greets visitors is a gondola, filled to the brim with books! This amazing bookstore is located in the Sestiere Castello, in a narrow alleyway just steps from Campo Santa Maria Formosa, where you’re likely to encounter more Venetians than tourists. Apart from its matchless ambiance, the venue stocks an impressive selection of books including numerous volumes about Venice and its art and its history, as well as hundreds of new and used tomes that are really difficult to find elsewhere. Other highlights include posters, postcards and numerous other Venetian-themed objects. It’s nearly always open and ready to welcome visitors - you can browse its fabulous selection of books at leisure and even take photos because no-one will disturb you as you wander dreamily amidst its piles of printed paper. To complete the mysterious atmosphere, the store has become home to a number of stray cats who hang out on top of the stacks of books just waiting for you to take a photograph that will be posted worldwide. Libreria Acqua Alta. Castello, 5176/b (Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2960841. Map F4
14 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
© SHUTTERSTOCK
Libreria Acqua Alta: a magical place
www.potpourri.it San Marco, Venezia Palazzo Regina Vittoria Fashion Ramo dei Fuseri 1810 Tel. +39 041 5221332 Home Frezzeria 1820/m Tel. +39 041 5201996
FASHION · HOME · MAN · LIFESTYLE
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Winter flavours Visiting Venice in winter, out of the main tourist season, can be wonderful! The crowds are fewer, the lines are shorter and the more ‘authentic’ side of Venice tends to be much easier to find. While strolling along its ‘calli’ (streets) you can drive out the damp and take refuge at one of the city’s many locales infused with a truly Venetian atmosphere. B Y R O M E N A B R U G N E R O T T O
In addition to a plethora of museums and exhibitions, Venice is packed with boutiques and small artisan shops showcasing a variety of unique products. Between visiting one attraction and another you can take refuge from the cold and indulge in a relaxing break at one of the city’s delightful locales. For those in search of a different experience, here is a pick of our favourite addresses. The tea ritual If you’re looking for somewhere special to have tea, a go-to place between October and March is the Oriental Bar at the Hotel Metropole on the Riva degli Schiavoni (www.hotelmetropole.com). This bar boasts a warm, welcoming atmosphere, a great selection of blends, including the exceptional Himalaya Shangri-La white tea from Nepal, and charming, professional luxury 5-star service. A visit to the Metropole is also a great opportunity to view the owner’s magnificent collection of antique objet d’art: you’ll be totally spellbound! If you’re loathe to leave the hotel’s warm, cozy atmosphere, you can linger longer and end your visit on a high note by dining at the property’s Michelinstarred Met Restaurant. Have a hot chocolate If you’re a lover of hot chocolate, a mustvisit address is Castello 5988. Located just around the corner from the Rialto bridge, this charming district is home to VizioVirtù (www.viziovirtu.com). Established in 2005, this artisanal chocolatier promises to satisfy even the most discerning palates. Its windows are always beautifully decorated with chocolate sculptures and its owners offer a chocolate making class at which would-be pastry chefs can learn how to make tantalizing mousses and truffles. If that sounds like too much work, you can indulge in a chocolate tasting event, learn about the history of chocolate 16 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
or even sample VizioVirtù’s Goldoni hot chocolate that uses water instead of milk as per the playwright’s original recipe from the 1750s. Since numbers are limited, we suggest that you make a reservation at info@viziovirtu.com. This is also a great place to purchase a mouth watering souvenir to bring back home as a gift for family or friends. The kingdom of artisanal pastries A good choice for those wishing to indulge in a pleasant break while visiting St. Mark’s Square is Caffè Lavena (www.lavena.it). This delightful venue, whose atmosphere is reminiscent of a Viennese Kaffeehaus,
is renowned for its extensive selection of teas, coffees and artisanal pastries. Said to be the favourite hangout of Richard Wagner, who composed numerous scores while sitting at its tables, this old-world café, decorated with exquisite antique furnishings and Murano glass mirrors and chandeliers, is currently a member of the Historic Venues of Italy. The café boasts an unrivalled view over the square, dominated by the imposing Basilica of San Marco with its breathtaking mosaics. Luxury gourmet Opened just over a year ago in the atrium of the recently remodeled T Fondaco dei
Tedeschi, the luxury department store owned by the DFS Group, AMO has become a reference point for discerning Venetians in search of welcoming place to meet for business or pleasure (www.alajmo.it). AMO is the fruit of collaboration between the Alajmo brothers and Philippe Starck: its well-spaced banquettes, designed to ensure the utmost privacy, invite guests to relax and converse freely. In addition to a fabulous selection of coffee blends and organic teas, AMO offers an astute selection of pastries, bite-sized cakes and macarons, as well as an interesting assortment of savoury delicacies that will not disappoint.
PHOTO © LESINKA372 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
SWEET VENETIAN ATMOSPHERES Opening page: considered by many to be the oldest cafés in Europe, the classic neo-baroque Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. This page. Top, the evocative atmosphere of the Oriental Bar at the Hotel Metropole; below, Venice offers some of the world’s best coffee and pastry shops, from the Viennese-style setting of Caffè Lavena to the more contemporary ambience of AMO (right), housed in the atrium of luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi.
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when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, its soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side.
Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097 when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades,
which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a lavish, highend department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.
A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Right, the Rialto Market, a one-of-akind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. Below, the Erbaria market selling fruit and vegetables, and the Pescaria (fish market).
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE This month, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
► SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER This pendant in white gold with 406 diamonds, totaling a weight of 5.7 carats, is part of the ‘Ducale’ collection: a line that draws inspiration from the fretwork of the quadrilobed arches of the loggia of the Ducal Palace and the architectural motif of its entrance door. The diamonds chosen for each creation are distinguished by their unparalleled cut, colour, clarity and carat. www.salvadori-venezia.eu
◄ POT-POURRÌ Master shoemaker Alberto Fasciani created these stunning bespoke boots exclusively for Pot-Pourrì using only the finest, most soughtafter skins. In addition to being characterized by meticulous attention to detail and finishes, all of the items stocked at this high-end Venetian boutique are highlighted by their unique, contemporary design. www.potpourri.it
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▲ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE A part of the ‘Murano Exclusive’ line, ‘Fenicia’, an Eau de Parfum Concentrée, is a mysterious fragrance featuring a blend of the fresh top notes of lemon from Calabria with the warm, spicy heart of nutmeg, softened by a touch of rose. An ideal combination of the highest Venetian craftsmanship with the most sought-after fragrances selected by expert perfumers. www.themerchantofvenice.com
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▼ BOTTEGA VENETA A unique style designed for Lauren Hutton in the movie 'American Gigolò', this exclusive clutch is reworked in the exact same shape and Cobalt Blue as the original piece. Named ‘The Lauren 1980’ in honour of the actress, it's crafted from signature Intrecciato Nappa with a seamless pouch and rigid rim. The top is fastened with a magnet button flap and inside it's fitted with a zipped pocket. www.bottegaveneta.com ▲ CA' MACANA A unique creation from one of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice which specializes in masks for Carnival, theatre, film productions and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each mask is unique. www.camacana.com
► ETRO Etro’s men’s ‘Paisley’ collection for fall/winter 2017/2018 includes lace-up shoes, monk straps and sneakers. The perfect accessory for trendy, fashion-conscious men, the model shown here features a mix of paisley details on a velvet base, finished with a leather toe-cap and a rubber sole. An ideal edit to add a touch of originality and style to a casual, contemporary look. www.etro.com
▲ NARDI VENEZIA This gold necklace with turquoises and diamonds is a part of the innovative ‘Wearable Contemporary Art’ collection by Nardi. Since its inception, this time-honored jeweler has been the go-to destination for lovers of ‘haute joaillerie’ in Venice. www.nardi-venezia.com
►CHANEL Behind its original design is a practical, purse-sized accessory that, unlike a tube, maintains its shape. Chanel’s ‘La Crème Main’ absorbs quickly, leaving skin with a velvety finish, and you’ll be tempted to use it constantly. Boasting an ultra-light texture, this irresistible, delicately perfumed hand cream is infused with May Rose Wax and Iris Palladia extract. www.chanel.com
► VENINI A perfect blend of timeless art and contemporary design, each Venini product is a work of art. One such example is this vase from the limited edition ‘Black Belt’ collection, designed by renowned New York architect Peter Marino in collaboration with Venini’s master glass makers: seemingly simple geometries are intertwined in a play of linear contrasts, amidst subtle nuances of colour and black bands, created by pulling and layering them hot on top of the glass. www.venini.com
► IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN The iconic Big Pilot's Watch is now also available with a midnight blue dial and special engraving on the case back as a tribute to the famous story of the little prince. The 46-millimetre ‘Le Petit Prince’ Edition features the IWC-manufactured 51111-calibre movement, which has a 7-day power reserve, and a date display at ‘6 o’clock’. www.iwc.com
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Pot-Pourrì, life in colour An original concept store, where the window displays resemble 3D paintings and the brightly-coloured clothing and sophisticated accessories come to life in striking installations. By Simona P.K Daviddi
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hen you stroll amidst ‘calli’ and ‘campielli’, and cross a picturesque bridge in Ramo dei Fuseri, your eyes will not be drawn to the gondolas gliding along the canal beneath you, but to a charming platform overlooking the water, decorated with period furniture and elegantly dressed mannequins. Other mannequins, posing in realistic, everyday settings, greet customers from the windows. We’ve reached Pot-Pourrì, a concept store that allows those crossing its threshold to immerse themselves in an unexpected, dream-like world. Here, brightly-coloured, original garments, set against the backdrop of real installations associated with everyday living, change according to the style whims of its owner, Marina, and the seasons. You’ll find clothing designed for 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
a day at the beach surrounded by pebbles, shells and fishermen’s nets, the perfect ensemble for a countrified look scented with wood shavings, or stylish tableware settings designed to enhance your dining experience. A shop cum installation which pays tribute to the infinite colour of everyday life, a concept store where you come simply to browse, and then leave wearing a totally new, stylish and inimitable look. Housed in the historic Palazzo Regina Vittoria, formerly Goethe’s first residence in Venice, and later home to a luxury hotel just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Pot-Pourrì is divided into three sections: a women’s ‘salon’, a more discreet men’s shop, and a boutique dedicated to lifestyle and homeware. >>www.potpourri.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
The
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.
Anatema
Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Artistic glass in Murano
Declare Although the goods sold by this small independent brand are targeted at an international clientele, its owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after, butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041 8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Samuele stop). Map D3
Fanny Gloves
Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2
Francis Model
Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).
Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws and all the glass workshops were moved to Murano. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. During the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal and their works are true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano today has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini).
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Giovanna Zanella
For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giuliana Longo
A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo).T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23
[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES
A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques.
T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI—Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIOR—www.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3
Crafted in white, yellow and rose gold set with diamonds and gemstones, this ‘Rose des Vents’ sautoir by DIOR reinterprets a motif that was deeply loved by Monsieur Dior. 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
CHOPARD—www.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5
DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLA—www.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5
MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5
MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5
MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5 PRADA—www. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO’s new work bag is at once contemporary, sleek and practical.
RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4
ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER— www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4 SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4 TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5 TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5 VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
This season, MISSONI dedicated its catwalk looks to Monte Rosa (the second highest mountain in the Alps), a symbol of strength and contemporary femininity: colourful checks create new geometries in red, yellow, pink, white and turquoise.
Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12
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SHOPPING La Parigina
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
26 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina
Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
René Caovilla
In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am7pm. www.renecaovilla.com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
SV Lab
As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5
CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta
Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer
its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta. com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boggi Milano
An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Marina Rinaldi
ARenowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. Merceria Orologio. T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Pot-Pourrì
Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Madein-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knickknacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4
DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior
Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor).
SHOPPING
JAEGER-LECOULTRE See page 28.
Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi
The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet
With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and highstreet favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
AL DUCA D'AOSTA
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN
See page 26.
Palmanova Outlet Village
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical
See page 28.
sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet
A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces,
In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.
www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148
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SHOPPING art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
IWC Schaffhausen
Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Jaeger-LeCoultre
PHOTO ©DFS
A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www. jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
The luxury heart of Venice Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, luxury department store T Fondaco dei Tedeschi offers the best of shopping, food and authentic Venetian craftsmanship. All under one roof. Spanning 7,000 square meters, the very first DFS retail space in Europe features an exceptional array of Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewelry and watches, wines and spirits, fragrances and beauty products. An authentic shopping experience in an emblematic historic building. Built in 1228, for almost 800 years it was a hub of culture and trade. This lavish four-storey department store is used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium is home to AMO, the exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building overlooking the Grand Canal is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit: the view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking! T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) www.tfondaco.com made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Boncompagni Venezia
This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open MonSat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www. boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Cartier
In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 28 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
Damiani
A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Dodo
The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Gems of Venice
For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable
Nardi Venezia
A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Omega
Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Pomellato
Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www. pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
Rocca 1794
The boutique’s sweeping window display, overlooking the famous St. Mark’s Square, host the collections of prestigious brands including Damiani and Salvini, but also the iconic models of some of the world’s most coveted high-end watchmakers including A. Lange & Söhne, piaget, Hublot, Zenith and Longines. Also particularly worthy of note are the splendid creations in glass handcrafted by Venini, unique artifacts that add a definite touch of allure to the space. Expert collectors or those who are new to the game can count on a service of excellence which entails full pre- and post-sale assistance. Other services include a full maintenance service with check ups and providing international certificates. www.rocca1794.com. Open daily 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 02 5201014.
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CAMPO
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STELLA from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the CORTE NOVA highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat Santi Apostoli CAMPIELLO Jewellery has always drawn inspiration from WIDMANN CAMPIELLO 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadoriCAL TI OZ GAB LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro Ca’ Macana R IE ZI L I 18 kt gold, wood the natural world: this venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San One of the oldest and finest mask making S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique CAMPIELLO ChiesaRolex: Evangelica ‘Albero’C brooch by NARDI is set with N S A N C A N C I A N O D R IO A L L workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film AN E M LE Luterana Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori ID S C Usapphires and diamonds. emeralds, W O L E E production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic LL CA Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 CAMPO handmade masks in the same way that Venetian S.MARIA NOVA 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso CAMPO DELLA CAL LE San Cassiano artisans did 800 years ago, never LAR A N repeating a PESCARIA GA C A N ZI G. G stop). Map F5 The Merchant ofA LVenice is not only a line of products A SAN L IN ZA D decoration in order to ensure that each mask is A S A LI Santa Maria R IO CAMPO but a wider project which includes a concept store D Basilica dei unique. Thanks to their expertise, theyEIalso hold SAN CASSAN Tag Heuer dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA MI in Murano, the Palazzo Santi Mocenigo Museum in Santa RA BECARIE San Giovanni Giovanni e Paolo conferences and courses on the history of Venetian Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones CO CA C A LL E LL LI CAMPO CAMPO DEL ED FO R shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI masks and traditional mask-making techniques. C A L L E C Croce, the Spice Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker LL Ain ’M ED SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A U S EL T E Land the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo TI LI DELLA A Their masks were featured in important film BO to master luxury sports chronographs with an Teatro Malibran E PAOLO BELLA VIENNA TA CAMPO Airport. CA LL E www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant SAN GIACOMETO DE LE Chiesa dell’Ospe ER BE Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo CA CORTE SECONDA M Kubrick and in operas including those staged by quest forDELinnovation, excellence, performance and P San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE SA IEL L San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San BA RB SO O daily 10am-7.30pm. prestige is Nreflected in its partnerships withdi theRialtothe Vienna Opera House. AR IA DE NI DE CasaOpen di Marco Polo Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 LE TO LE CA www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. O EG RT PO TO SO
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VENETIANS
PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA
Eredi Jovon
Eredi Jovon's cameo
La Bottega dei Mascareri
Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3
Tessitura Bevilacqua La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked
30 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di
Piedàterre
Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5
ADVERTORIAL
OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.
NICOLAO ATELIER An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetian-style period costumes for movies, plays, commercials and Carnival parties. More than 10,000 sets of underwear, accessories, headgear and capes, all exhibited in an elegant premises in the centre of Venice that comprise a workshop, a showroom and the entire costume collection. Map E2
www.nicolao.com Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.
OTTICA MANUELA Located in the district of San Marco, this high-end optician resembles an atelier rather than a shop. Renowned for its professionalism and attentive service, it offers creations that are real works of art. Its frames for prescription lenses or sunglasses make Ottica Manuela’s iconic eyewear real statement pieces that add a unique touch to every face. Map E4 San Marco, 3145 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 041 5210268
OFFICINA BERNARDI The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Map F5
www.officinabernardi.com Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
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Discovering Venice’s art galleries
Galleria Contini
PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI
Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto
Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com).
Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.
32 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
Newcomers? Located in Venezia-Mestre, the D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery is a new, important exhibition space featuring a prestigious collection of 20th century masters including Vedova, Treccani, Licata, Guidi, Mirò and DalÍ. The gallery also hosts works by contemporary Venetian and international artists like Alexander Kanevsky whose imposing work titled ‘God’s Kingdom’ is one of the space’s major attractions. Ever-aware of the region’s cultural life and its artists, the gallery’s charismatic owner Elena Mangu offers a rich program of multi-cultural events and ambitious projects in the world of art dealerships (Venice-Mestre, via Dante Alighieri 8. www.demveniceartgallery.com).
Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.
SHOPPING
The new, 300 sq.m. space of Galerie Alberta Pane creates an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery encourages artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations (Dorsoduro 2403/h. www.galeriealbertapane.com). Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com).
The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com).
Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net).
It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www. berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com).
Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com).
Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).
Galleria L'Occhio. Tobia Ravà, 948 vortice di pace.
Bugno Art Gallery
Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.
OhMyBlue. Liisa Hashimoto, Leaf Garden ring.
D’E.M. Venice Art Gallery. Alexander Kanevsky, God’s Kingdom.
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SHOPPING
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Top antiques
Tessitura Bevilacqua
Venice is infused with so many historical and artistic artefacts that the city’s passion for antiques is literally embedded within its soul. There are so many large and small workshops that it is almost impossible to list them all. Our city reporter Stefano Traine has selected the most important. Alessandro Zoppi A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the most passionate and authoritative collectors and art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for more than a decade, of the highly prestigious Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum features a number of pieces from his impressive collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through 20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005. email: winglets13@gmail.com. Antichi Splendori Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
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Antichità San Samuele An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes in religious antiques, with a particular focus on sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4 Antichità Zanutto Continuing a longstanding family tradition, in the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San Marco to open his workshop specializing in antique paintings, with a particular focus on Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Antichità San Samuele
Ca’ Nova Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca' Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www. canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a (Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 Franco Dell’Orto This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs, European tapestries and large-scale decorative pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto. com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Alessandro Zoppi
SHOPPING
Le Zoie Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere, including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie. com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3 Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily on preservation and authentic bookbinding methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d (Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio
Studio Arga The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a must-visit reference point. Open by appointment. www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line 2 (San Marco stop). Map E4
Venetia Studium
Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigibevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map D3 Venetia Studium The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell “modern object that speak an ancient language”. Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics, handbags and other accessories inspired by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai continues a family tradition established at the end of the 19th century by her great grandfather Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames, antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art. PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm. www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606 (Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Ca' Nova
Franco Dell'Orto
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VENETIANS
ADVERTORIAL
BUGNO ART GALLERY Since it first opened in 1991, in addition to supporting Venetian artistic movements, the gallery has also co-operated with well-known international contemporary artists. It currently collaborates with the Archives of Armando Pizzinato and Mario Deluigi. In 2004, besides art, it also began to focus on photography with renowned Italian photographers. In 2016, it enlarged its spaces and in 2017 it opened a new showroom at the JW Marriott in Venice. Map E4 www.bugnoartgallery.com San Marco, 1996/d. T: 041 5231305
ELISABETTA ZANUTTO Raised in a family of antique dealers but also artists and sculptors, Elisabetta Zanutto’s passion for art was instilled at an early age. After honing her skills as a restorer, she took her passion for Venetian art (from its lagoon to male and female figures) to new heights, in an ongoing search for visionary, ephemeral subjects. Map E5
www.elisabettazanutto.it San Marco, 3287 (Salizada San Samuele). T: 369 4276226
D'E.M. ART GALLERY This vast, visually striking exhibition space was recently opened by its charismatic owner Elena Mangu. The gallery showcases works by 20th century masters and contemporary artists in suggestive settings characterized by the colour of its rooms and works. It is a constantlyevolving, multi-cultural, international gallery which also organizes collective and personal exhibitions. Off Map www.demveniceartgallery.com Via Dante Alighieri, 8 (Venezia-Mestre) T.: 041 981820 - Mob. +39 327 5803670
ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265. More info: www.where-venice.com 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
VENETIANS
ADVERTORIAL
BAC ART STUDIO After experimenting in different artistic works at different locations, the studio recently relocated to Calle delle Botteghe where, in addition to displaying valuable collector’s items in glass, ceramics and porcelain, it also features contemporary paintings and sculptures. Other offshoots include a graphics ‘workshop’, the production of numbered photographs, an art gallery and an ‘editorial’ section. Map E4 www.bacart.com San Marco, 3451 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2412898
LA SALIZADA GALLERIA Specializing in historic photography, and opened in 2011 by Alberto De Giulio, it hosts works originating from several of Italy’s most important historical archives, including the Florence-based Fratelli Alinari Archives of Photographic Works. A heritage dating from 1852 to the present, interwoven with contemporary photographic exhibitions, works by established and emerging international artists as well as the sale of original period photographs and reproductions. Map E4 www.lasalizada.it San Marco, 3448 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 2410723
EG ARTE With its offer of contemporary art, Eros Gasparini, the owner of EG Arte, aims to preserve the authenticity of art. In addition to showcasing paintings, sculptures and photography, the space also doubles as an artisanal workshop for the creation of jewelry but also glass and ceramic pieces. Works of art and unique pieces referencing the timeless symbols of the Serenissima. Map E4 San Marco, 1894 (Campo San Fantin). T: 345 7070284
GALLERIA D’ARTE L’OCCHIO Located in the historic centre of Venice, just steps from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, this gallery was established at the beginning of the 1990s to promote the work of young, emerging artists. The gallery recently increased its presence in Venice with the opening of a second exhibition space which hosts solo exhibitions. Map E4 www.gallerialocchio.net Dorsoduro, 181-185. T: 041 5226550 Antichità Zanutto More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37
STROLLING THROUGH BURANO
VENETIANS
In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. BY STEFANO TRAINE
With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.
HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.
ADVERTORIAL
MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.
www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523.
TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chef’s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.
www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.
LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and children’s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.
Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39
DINING
All the Glam(our) of Venice Glam, the brand new sophisticated restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Enrico Bartolini, is located inside the stunning Palazzo Venart Luxury Hotel. By Simona P.K. Daviddi
J
ust one year after it opened, this prestigious restaurant, located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. Set within a tranquil, secluded corner of Venice, far removed from the hustle and bustle of St. Mark’s Square, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart, the Serenissima’s latest luxury hotel. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, the only Italian chef boasting four starred restaurants for a grand total of five Michelin stars (also in Milan, Bergamo and Castiglione della Pescaia). He has also just opened a promising new restaurant in Bologna. During the day, the restaurant’s intimate, conservatoire-style dining room which overlooks a courtyard, is lit by a large glassfronted window offering breathtaking views 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
over the Grand Canal and several of the city’s most stunning palaces. At night, the restaurant is bathed in a more romantic ambiance, enhanced by suffused lighting and the details of the venue’s minimalist, chic décor. The restaurant, helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Richly imaginative, the cuisine focuses on a careful selection of fresh, seasonal market produce. The whole is complemented by an extensive wine list that in addition, to featuring the best vintages from the Veneto region, boasts an impressive selection of the best French and Italian labels. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar
>> Glam Restaurant c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676.
Enrico Bartolini
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto
Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta
Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta
One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE
liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Al Mercà
A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3
Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna
Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera
Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess
Antiche Carampane
Antico Martini
Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
Antico Pignolo
The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-
A Beccafico Arte
It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
A la Vecia Cavana
Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3
Acqua Pazza
Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo
A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Giardinetto da Severino
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style
L’Alcova's magical atmosphere Diners can enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine at the L’Alcova Restaurant with its splendid view overlooking the Grand Canal. The menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list featuring vintages from various Italian regions. The young and talented chef Damiano Bassano combines traditional Italian flavours with unique touches. Its exquisite interiors look onto Venice’s scenic waterfront and the Rialto Market. This magical location has inspired the chef who sources fresh ingredients from land and sea, offering diners dishes that are infused with his talented creativity. The ‘L’Incontro’ Bar is an ideal place to sample aperitivi and pre-and post-prandial drinks. Don’t miss the ‘Rooftop terrace’, a perfect location for cocktails and signature drinks at aperitivo time. This exclusive bar offers a variety of drinks, including traditional Spritzes, Bellinis and fruit cocktails (sourced from the nearby Rialto Market), an innovative idea based on the chef’s philosophy of natural, healthy cuisine. L’Alcova Restaurant c/o Ca’ Sagredo. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida
Terrazza Danieli Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Giorgio Schifferegger. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XIIcentury church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6
Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
DINING
Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5
La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6
Pisanino
Do Leoni
Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. www.palazzettopisani.com Located in the noble floor of Palazzetto Pisani, facing the Grand Canal, here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Moreover, try out the Balcony experience, a romantic and unique experience just for two persons on a private balcony facing the Grand Canal, simply enjoy an aperitivo in Venetian style, an exclusive dinner or even a continental breakfast. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Accademia stop). Map E5 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Quadri
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map
contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3
Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676 www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, the Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. Just one year after it opened, it was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2017. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with
Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149. T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4
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Il Ridotto
Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4
Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath
Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3 Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map
Glam
Osteria da Fiore
Met
Dopolavoro
Oro
Venissa
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DINING
Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.
stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Conca d’Oro
Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Da Fiore
A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 46 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,
transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Gran Canal
Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal.
1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).
San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Harry’s Bar
Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon
Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical
DINING
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida
décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
La Calcina
Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Calcina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
La Porta d’Acqua
Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
Lineadombra
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. This restaurant is part of the new "L'Chaim!" Tour. venicebeyondtheghetto.com Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.
Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Locanda Cipriani
For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic
restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map
Taverna al Remer
Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).
Map F3
Trattoria Do Forni
The owner Eligio Paties has managed to make this restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
Wildner
Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT The haute cuisine of this signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of Italian specialties and traditional Venetian dishes. www.kempinski.com/it/venice
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SWEET TREATS… BUT NOT TOO MANY ONI Venetian biscuits come in all shapes and sizes and are made with a variety of different flours. The most common Arsenale Storico Navale di Venezia include dry baicoli, zaeti,Museo cookies made from cornflour, with raisins and lemon R PE GA peel, bussolai (prepared by the wives of IUSEP VIA G fishermen to sustain their husbands while at sea), pinsa, a simple biscuit made from stale bread, raisins, cocoa powder and RI VA DE I S candied fruit, and fugassa venessiana, ET TE M leavened dough sprinkled with grains of AR TI RI sugar: Venice’s traditional sweet treats have the irresistible aroma of simple, homemade biscuits prepared with only the most basic ingredients. A perfect end to a delicious meal, they can also be enjoyed as a midmorning snack. They can be accompanied by either a strong cup of coffee, or a rich, mouth watering zabaione.
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ADVERTORIAL
TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.
Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089
LA FAVORITA Situated in the heart of the Lido of Venice, since 1950, this historic family-run trattoria has paid tribute to Venetian cuisine. Its menu, comprised mainly of fish dishes, is inspired by locally-sourced ingredients with a focus on distinct, easily recognizable flavours. Standouts include fish tartare or bigoli with shrimp and artichokes which, during warmer months can be savoured in the garden accompanied by a rich selection of wines and great live music. See page 40 Via Francesco Duodo, 33. Lido di Venezia. T: 041 5261626.
TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.
ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 49
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice Not only the most famous picture postcard of the city, and the great heart of Venice, St. Mark's is a heady mix of history, art and contradictions. The meeting with this unique city starts here... By Elena Binda
T
he great heart of Venice, the Basilica of San Marco is one of Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable (and photographed) landmarks and the city’s most important church. Its dazzling polychrome façade with its marbles and mosaics, spires and domes, and famous winged lion, the symbol of the city for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory. The interior, featuring an abundance of exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a not-tobe-missed highlight. While in the area, make sure to ascend to the top of its bell tower, which offers superb views over the city. The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic church that welcomes worshippers and tourists alike. 50 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
This is a place of worship and on entering visitors are asked to respect the rules: appropriate clothing must be worn, taking photographs is forbidden and visitors are asked to lower their voices at all times. The church is open daily for prayer and at certain times or on certain days it is entirely given over to religious ceremonies and visits are suspended. For reasons of safety, heavy luggage must be left outside (luggage can be deposited in Ateneo San Basso, in Piazzetta dei Leoncini, in front of the Porta dei Fiori, north facade). >> Basilica di San Marco San Marco, 328 T: 041 2708311 www.basilicasanmarco.it
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco
This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)
This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal)
Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto
This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm5pm. www.madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with FOR UPDATES VISIT numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.
contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it
scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Ghetto di Venezia
Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 51
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it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)
This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)
Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)
The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco,
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)
San Giorgio Maggiore
Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health)
Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The
EDITOR'S TIP
11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892. 52 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
Museo Correr
church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to
A bust of Maria Luisa of Austria by Luigi Pizzi is preserved in the ‘imperial’ rooms of the Royal Palace at the CORRER MUSEUM which were decorated during the Habsburg period. two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Santi Giovanni e Paolo
One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
Scala Contarini del Bovolo
Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects,
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
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FREE ADMISSION TO STATE MUSEUMS
Scuola Grande dei Carmini
Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini. it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5
Teatro La Fenice
Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands
Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art
Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Ca' d'Oro Every first Sunday of the month, more than 450 museums and archaeological sites across Italy open their doors to the public free of charge. Venice, like many other cities in the country, has joined this initiative promoted by the Ministry of Cultural Heritage by offering free admission to the museums listed below on Sunday 7 January. Gallerie dell’Accademia www.gallerieaccademia.org Dorsoduro, 1050 (Campo della Carità) Open Mon 8.15-2pm and Tues-Sun 8.15-7.15pm.
Museo di Palazzo Grimani www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858. Open daily 10am-5pm. Museo Nazionale di Villa Pisani (National Museum Villa Pisani) www.villapisani.beniculturali.it Via Doge Pisani 7, Stra (20 minutes from Venice) Open Tues-Sun 9am-5pm.
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro (Giorgio Franchetti Gallery at Ca’ d’Oro). www.cadoro.org Cannaregio, 3932. Open Mon 8.15am-6.45pm and Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Museo d’Arte Orientale (Oriental Art Museum). www.arteorientale.org Santa Croce, 2076. Open Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Venezia (National Archaeological Museum of Venice) www.polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it Piazzetta San Marco, 17/52. Open daily 10am-5pm.
Palazzo Grimani, Chamber of Apollo
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collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro PHOTO ALBERTO MASNOVO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO Iconic, beautiful and… imperfect: this is the characteristic that makes the Scala Contarini del Bovolo, just steps from Campo Manin, a rare gem of Venetian architecture featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com
Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art
The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico. visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo Correr
The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic
Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum)
Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 (Burano stop). Off Map
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)
Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco
The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www. museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
(Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San MarcuolaGhetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle GuglieGhetto stop). Map D2
Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare
The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399. Padiglione delle Navi. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5
1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Fortuny
Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from
| SIGHTSEEING
the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi. it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Palazzo Cini-La Galleria
PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.palazzocini. it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5
Palazzo Ducale
A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco,
The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'
Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter. For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content. Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.
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PHOTO © BEPSY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ENTERTAINMENT
Gambling in Venice If you feel like gambling in town, there are two great options for you: Ca’ Vendramin Calergi, Venice’s oldest Casinò, and Ca’ Noghera, Italy’s first American style-casino. By Elena Brunello
L
ocated in the sestiere of Cannaregio, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is Venice’s most historic casino. This majestic palace, built between the 15th and the 16th centuries, faces the Grand Canal and is remembered as the place where composer Richard Wagner died. Today, the palace is home to the Venice Casino and to the Wagner Museum. Once the residence of the doges, it quickly established itself as a sophisticated setting for the most classic games, and beating heart of the city’s gambling scene. Roulette, traditional card games, and spectacular slot machines make this place the perfect spot for a thrilling night in Venice, after shopping in the Cannaregio area. Gourmet Italian delicatessen and fish 56 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
specialties are a must at the Ca’ Vendramin restaurant, dedicated to the great composer who used to live here. The Wagner Restaurant offers the exclusive pleasure of refined dining for 150 people, in rooms that have been splendidly decorated by Palma il Giovane with Gian Battista Crosato frescoes. A new Grill Bar has opened in the Lounge Bar area on the second floor. Games available: French Roulette, Fair Roulette, Chemin de Fer, Black Jack, Caribbean Poker, Punto Banco and Slot Machines. Ca’ Noghera, a more modern alternative to the city’s classic, charming Ca’ Vendramin, is Italy’s first American-style casino. Opened in 1999, it is located close to the Marco Polo
Airport with a free shuttle from Mestre to Ca’ Noghera. This unique locale offers more than 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a brand new poker room for Texas Hold’em tournaments. Other highlights include over 600 next generation slot machines, an Entertainment Arena hosting concerts, fashion shows and performances, as well as three restaurants. Games available: Fair Roulette, French Roulette, Chemin de Fer, Black Jack, Caribbean Poker, Texas Hold’em Poker, Punto Banco and Slot Machines. >> www.casinovenezia.it T: 041 5297111. info@casiniovenezia.it
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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
GAMBLING & CASINOS Casinò di Venezia
Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino,
opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
VENETO HOT VENUES
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it
Arena di Verona
The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map
WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia
Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a one-of-akind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2
San Clemente Palace Kempinski
Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
■ OPERA 3, 4, 5, 7, 9, 10 January LA TRAVIATA Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Enrico Calesso/Marco Paladin, conductors Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets and costumes Philippe Giraudeau, coreography 19, 21, 23, 25, 27 January at Malibran Theatre GABRIELE SPONTINI, LE METAMORFOSI DI PASQUALE La Fenice Opera House new production Gianluca Capuano, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia, sets and costumes ■ CONCERTS 13, 14 January DANIELE RUSTIONI CONDUCTOR Music by: Ermanno Wolf-Ferrari (Violin Concert in D Major, Op. 26) and Franz Schubert (Symphony No 8 in C Major D 944 The Great) Daniele Rustioni, conductor Francesca Dego, violin ■ MUSIKAMERA 30, 31 January at Sale Apollinee BENEDETTO LUPO IN RECITAL, excerpts from di Claude Debussy Benedetto Lupo, piano
I MUSICI VENEZIANI Music, performances and spectacular 18th-century masks and costumes, reminiscent of the splendour of the Serenissima, combine to bring the past into the present. www.imusiciveneziani.com
The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!
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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains
“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE
FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:
Tourist Information
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
San Polo Dorsoduro
Castello
San Marco
Giudecca
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.
San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).
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GALEONE VENEZIANO This is a unique way to visit Venice’s lagoon while CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE savouring its aristocratic beauty and historical HOP ON-HOP OFF legacy. Built in 2001 to bring ship owner Andrea Exclusive view on the city of Venice. Longo’s longtime dream to life, the “Galeone www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it Veneziano”is a vessel inspired by the ancient • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 galleons, used in bygone days, by the Serenissima. years) 10€. • Services: designed to merge history with a • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children contemporary twist, the galleon offers all the (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board services of a modern ship. This one-of-a-kind at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing venue is perfect for parties and a great way to Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing amaze your travel companions; it can be rented Experience" free App, on www.venezia.cityfor private events such as weddings and business sightseeing.it. meetings, offering guests a special tour, with or • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) without lunch or dinner, while sailing around the • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, islands. The galleon can be decorated with flags Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for and banners. Apple and Android smartphones) with the • Events: every Wednesday and Friday evening, City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you can book a table for a “Galleon Dinner Cruise in Venice” (by reservation only, just 30 you, walking tour available in 5 different seats): a charming candle-lit dinner that allows languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor ratelli ebenef geloguests to take in the sights while sailing in front Center. ale Fat Arcan OspedRaffaele San of Saint Mark’s square and moving on towards • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Parcoggia" Gro "Villa Murano, Burano, Mazzorbo. Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise terocalze as n o S M itane lvise el • Aboutl'Othe Galeone Veneziano: It can sail all Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Sant'A Carm Rio di Sa rto nt'Alvise del onna Madyear long as it has a rigid covering and heating Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV during the winter; in summer, in case of bad – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace weather it has a protective covering. The Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Galleon is equipped with a wired audio system Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia o irolam with microphones and is accessible to the Compartimentale Santa Lucia.Penitenti San G le el d ia esuiti MarVenice differently-abled. There are two galleons • New CitySightseeing Visitor ei Gthe din Rio della Santa Miserico Chiesa rdia o ic fleet, each one with a maximum capacity of 146 Center (inside the main train station Venezia o Ebra ia rdia Abaz Muse ico hi Miser e Arc passengers Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": della for private events, and 84 seats for dei Tr Ponte table service. any kind of information on the service and onCana le di Cann aregio the city, maps and exchange vouchers. i zo Nan bbe Palaz an Gio S +39 0421 380006. Open daily (from April to November): osca a • Information: dalen Santa F La Mad info@jollyroger.it - www.galeoneveneziano.it 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628. ardo ON
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LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
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WHERE VENICE MAPS - Copyright Where Italia srl. © 2018. Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org. Cover Map:Matthaeus Merian (1650). All rights reserved. Editore: Where Italia srl. Supplemento di Where Venice - Reg. Trib. Milano No. 453, 19 July 2010 - Where Italia Srl, iscritto al ROC n. 20182 del 14 settembre 2010 - Direttore Responsabile: Andrea Jarach. info@wheremilan.com - www.wheremilan.com. Printed by Graphicscalve, località Ponte Formello - 24020 Vilminore di Scalve (Bergamo). WHERE® magazine and WHERE® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.
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An expert in the field of local Venetian art, Alessandro offers the best of his research with a particular focus on glass jewelry which he personally selects and appraises.
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Alessandro, now in Campo San Maurizio, boasts to his international clientele a collection of objects created by early 20th-century master glass artists including Venini, Barovier, Seguso, Zecchini.
Alessandro è fine cultore dell’arte veneziana popolare. Propone il meglio delle sue ricerche con particolare attenzione alle creazioni di gioielli di vetro, che cura personalmente.
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point for collectors of modern and contemporary art. to hosting events and awards, it focuses on coaching, and showcasing the works of emerging artists.
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erimento per collezionisti di arte moderna e anea. Fondata nel 2007, vanta un intenso programma art coaching e ospita manifestazioni e premi.
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GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.
Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!
Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .
Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.
PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected. com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits.
A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few. Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custom-made according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin').
Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com
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62 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
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CIPRIANO SAN CALLE
CAVALLINO TREPORTI
NTI
RE
Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato
GIUSEPPE
CALLE
SA
US
GN
LP
COLORATA
BR
MA
C
GIA LLE
CAMPO SAN BERNARDO
BAROVIER CALLE
VIVARINI
A.
SACCA
LIO
LL
L'A CA
E C E
CA
DEL
SAN
CAL
LE
SALVADOR
FO
TERA’
Santa Maria degli Angeli
PARMENSE
LL
E V O
RTI
STRADA
CA
RADI
CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE
NO
MURANO
TA’
AN
IA
ER
PORTO MARGHERA
E
A
B
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
LI
CRISTOFORO
LORENZO
GIANMARIA
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENTA
LA
RIO
CALLE
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
EL
FONDAMENTA
ORTES CALLE
D
M
LE
LL
NV
CA
Cimitero Nuovo
A
TO
COLORATA
VI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO
VIA
MASENA
ROTONDA
CANOSSIANE
CALLE
DE
LARGA
LA DE
a
CALLE
Apostoli Santi dei Rio
DE LA PIETA’
DE L MAGAZEN
CALLE
CALLE
CORDONI DEI STELLA
CALLE CALLE
STELLA
SQUERO
CALLE
DEL
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
TESTA LA
Rio
Dei
BANDI
MENDICANTI
FONDAMENTAMendicanti
DE CALLE
CASTELLO
GIUSTINA
CAPPUCCINE CALLE
SANTA
DEGLI
ORTI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHETE
CALLE CAVALLI
MURAZZO
PIETA’
CALLE
DEL TE DEUM
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAPPELLO
CALLE
CALLE
RAMO
CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI
FONDAMENTA DEL CRISTO
MAGNO
Nuove Fondamenta delle
GRECI
CALLE DEI
Canale
STRETA SALIZADA
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Rio de San Gerolamo
CALLE DEL DOSE
CAGNOLETO
PESCARIA
DEL
CALLE
CALLE
DEI
FORNI
L’ARSENAL
DOSE DEL
CALLE
DE FONDAMENTA
NAVE
VOLTO
LA DE
DEL
FRUTARIOL
PARADISO DEL
DEL
CALLE
C.
PE
ISEPO
SANT'ANTONIO
COLONNE CALLE
C. D EL
LE
CAR
XXIV M AGG
IO
CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O
SO
GEN
ERA
CH
LE
INO
TTO
C.
ZU
SS
CAL
PA
A
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
Sant'Elena
LL
E
CA
RN
AR
SANT'ELENA
VIALE O
Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido
ER
CA
LL
SA
CA
E
Teatro Verde
N
F.
GN
LÒ
Japan Pavilion
CO
MAGGIORE
NI
EMB
RE
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
VIALE
E IV NOV
United States Pavilion
VIAL
PALUDO CALLE
Rio d el Giardini
CALLE
SAN GIORGIO
I
N
A
N
LA
VA
EL
IO
AR
G
Le Zitelle
E
MA
DI
GR
MO
RT
VI
E
AN
CA
LL
E
MA
SO
AL
E
N
VI
TT
OR
IO
VI
VE
AL
NE
RI
VI O
RA
E
IV
NO
VE
Lido S. Nicolo' M
BR
SANT’ELENA
E
Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
TO
R E
RO
G
UE
N
SQ
IA
K
LO
LI
E
LL
E
DE
LL
A
FO
ND
IA
V
ER
Ò
CA
OL
DELL'OLIO
FERRANDO
CALLE
DE LE ERBE
NOBILI
LUNGO
STRETTA
CALLE DEL FORNO
BRESSANA
CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL
VENIERA
CALLE
CALLE
FORNO
BO DONZELLA C.
DEL
CALLE
BALBI
C. DE LA MADONETA
C.
CALLE
SANT’ANTONIO
LOVO DEL CALLE
CALLE
CORONA
DELLA
C.
LEONARDO
LA SACRESTIA
C. CORONA
CALLE RIMPETTO
ALBANESI
CALLE DE LE RASSE
CALLE DEL
DE
CATERINA
L’ABAZIA Misericordi
CAMPO
SANTA
della
FOSCARINI
LUNGA
CALLE
CALLE
Canale
MISERICORDIA FOND.
RACHETA LA DE
FELICE
CALLE
I ZZ PO
Dolce
PRIULI
DO
FOORNO
Ca’
GA
DEL
RU
Rio
VELE DE
LE
CALLE
APOSTOLI
CALLE
PISTOR
SANTI
DEL
VERDI
CALLE
C.SANT’ANTONIO
RIO TERRÀ
SALIZADA
SOFIA
SANTA
CAMPO
CANNAREGIO
SALIZADA
BOMBASEI
APRILE II
CALLE
MERCERIA
STAGNERI
C. DEI
GIOVANNI
S.G. GRISOSTOMO
CALLE
ZULIAN SAN
BALOTE
CALLE
LE DE
PISCINA
CALLE
NUOVE
FOSCARI CALLE
CALLE DEI FUSERI
SALONI
E
LL
RIO CROCE
ROTONDA
SAN
AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA
DELLE
I CASE
CASE
CAPITELO
FONDAMENTA
DEL
PIAVE
CALLE
LARG
CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE
C.
ROSA
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
LARGA
CALLE
ETTI,
VECCHIA
LA
CALLE
TI, RÀ
DE
FA R S
ET
CALLE
CORTE
RS FA
RIO T ERÀ
TE
CALLE
DEL
RIELLO
CALLE
CALLE
TREVISAN
CAMIN
RIO
COLOMBINA CALLE
PESARO
QUERIN,
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
SAN FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TRAGHETO
FONTEGO
MEGIO
DEL
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
DEL
SALITA
CALLE
C.
STAE
FORNO DEL
SAN
D’ORO
CA’
LUCIA
C.
CALLE
LARGA
SALIZADA
ROSA
SANTA
CALLE
GRUE
DEL
LE DE
CALLE
CARMINATI
CAMPANIEL DEL
REGINA
SALIZADA
LA
PICCOLO
FONDAMENTA
SIMON
DE
CALLE
BOTERI
DEI CALLE
L’ANZOLO
STUA LA
DE
DE
CALLE
SECONDO
CRISTO
TERA’
DEL
RIO
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
DRIO
DORSODURO SESTIERE
CALLE
SAN
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CALLE
ROCCO SAN
ALBANESI DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI
LIPOLI
ORBI DEI
CALLE
LE DE
GIUSTINIAN
EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE
DEL
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
SANGIANTOFFETTI
EREMITE
FONDAMENTA
DEI CORTELLOTTI
FONDAMENTA NANI
FOSCARINI
VENIER
CALLE
CALLE
LL
CA
FONDAMENTA
DEI
MP
CA
O
CA
SANT'ELENA
LL
GE
Rio
N
NO
SA
I
IE
SANT'ELENA
TA
TI
EN
C
AM
BO
D
LI
N
SA
LL
BB
TE
E
ZI
TA
NT
EN
Parco delle Rimembranze
MP
Santa Croce
FONDAMENTA
AM
CA
O
E
U I P
LL
M
GRANDE
US
TERÀ
PALUDO
ND
E
CA
IN
OC
C.
CR
CROCE
VIALE PIAVE
TA
RD
CALLE
GI
N
RIO
IA
PONTE
SA
TA
San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
G
CALLE
EN
E
CORTE
AM
ND
AL
FIANCO
FO
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
Giardini
S. Giorgio
VI
SAN GIACOMO
CENETTE
PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA
CALLE
ALDI
EP
O
ACCADEMIA
A
IST
LL
Lungo
CE
R L C
IB PE GAR
NA
RI
DE
MA
ION
FONDAMENTA
C.
CALLE
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
QUINTAVALLE CALLE
POLACCA
CALLE
BB
IAN
RE
EN
ROSA
SALAMON
CALLE
SA
RI
CO
C.
GIUSEP
SARES
O E ANC
DOMENICO CALLE SAN
VIALE
CALL
TI
CALLE
COPPO
SCHIAVONA
AR
CALLE CORERA
CALLE
M
LARGA
MARAFONI
CALLE
SANT'ANNA
SE
C A L L E C ATA PA N
CALLE
TE
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
CALLE TERCO
F O N D A M E N TA
OSPIZIO
CALLE
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN
I
AN
CALLE
de le
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
EL
FONDAMENTA
LE
San Francesco di Paola BALD
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
I S ET
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
CALLE
NUOVA
DEI PRETI
DE
CH
Ponte
ENA
COLTRERA
CALLE
CALLE
GARI
EPPE
CALLE FRIZIER
VA
C. LOREDANA
AM
DELLA
MI
ERBE
ARS
NALE
FONDAME
IUS VIA G
CALLE
ND
CALLE
E
LE
E N TA
TA A R SE
LA TANA
CALLE
FO
CALLE ALBERO
LL
JUNGHANS
DE
RAMO DE
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
FO
Redentore O
Santissimo Redentore
CALLE MORE
del
AMEN
TANA
CROSERA
SAN GI ACOM
CA
CAMPO
CALLE
FOND
DE LA
CALLE
M E N TA
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
VIDA
CASTELLO
PICCOLO
LA
DI
PONTE
PALLADA
SCUOLA
DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
Punta della Dogana
Zitelle
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
CALLE DELA CREA
IA
CALLE
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
FONDAMENTA
PIETRO
FEM
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
SAN
'EU
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
NT
SCUOLA
DE CALLE
CROSERA
C. VOLTO
FORNACE
SALONI
SA
CALLE
PISCINA
PIGNATER
CALLE
ONI
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
TERRÀ
TA
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
L’ARCO
DE
Spirito Santo
Giudecca Palanca EN
DE
SALIZADA
DEL PIOVAN
CATECUMENI
RIO
AM
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
MARTIN SAN
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
RIO TERRÀ
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
ND
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
BASTION
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
FO
COSMO
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SCUDI
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
DEI PUTI
San Gregorio
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
FO
Sant'Eufemia
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
ANTONIN
S C H I AV
DEI FORNI
BIAGIO
CALLE
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
Arsenale
SAN
CONVERTITE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
R I VA D EGLI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
100 m
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN
SALIZADA
DEL
LARGA
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
DEGLI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
DEGLI
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TERRÀ
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
O
SCHIAVONI RIVA
CALLE
VERONA
DEGLI
CALLE BOSELLO
LA
MINELLI
RIO
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
DE
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
FONDAMENTA
ra Scomenze De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO
FONDAMENTA
F. CONDULMER
DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO
CERERIA LA
PORTO
DE C.
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA
C.
Rio Del
FABBRI
FONDAMENTA
DEL
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CALLE
DEI PRETI
CALLE
CALLE
GATE
ZORZI SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
DRASI
a
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
DE LE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
DEI
PISCINA
VERONA
RC
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
C. DE LE COLONNE
DELL’OROLOGIO
LA
CALLE
DE
A N M
SALIZADA
DIREZIONE
LATERANO
SEVERO
CALLE
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
Marittim
Santa Maria del Pianto
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
SAN
FABBRI
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
SA
MEZO
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
DEI
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
Palazzo Ducale
LO
Rio San Lorenzo
DE CALLE
RUGA
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
LARGA
BARBARIA
SAN
CORTE NUOVA
San Giovanni Novo
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
MO
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
DEL
CALLE
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO DEL
SAN
CALLE
RC
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San
RIO
CALLE
MAGAZZINI
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
SAN
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
DE LE
ORBI
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
DEI
CALLE
Rio
C.
AI
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
CALLE
BEMBO
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
ZZA
REMER
CALLE
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
Stazione
LARGA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
O DEL
CINQUE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
zera
DEI
LIO
COCCO
TOSCANA
CALLE
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
Museo Correr
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
PIA
FONDAMENTA
ZATTERE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
NOVE
BERLENDIS
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
Salute
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
BOTERI
VARISCO
CALLE
SAN
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
MIRACOLI
GIAZZO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
Ca' Giustinian
RI
Palazzo Genovese
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
DEI
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CALLE
DE
SAN
DELLE
SAN
DEL CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CASTELLO
CALLE
MADONA
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
FREZZERIA
MOISE’
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
SESTIERE
ORESI
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
DIETRO
RAMO
S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
DEI
PARANGON
CALLE
DOLERA
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAL
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CALLE
CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
VENIER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
DE
X
SALIZADA
MAZZINI CORTE
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
FONTEGO
SAN LIO
LARGA
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO
CALLE
CORTE DEL REMER
RUGA
CALLE
CALLE
VOLTI
GALIZZI
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
VAPORETTO
CALLE
STURION
DEL
ALLO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
C. DEL
SALIZZADA PIO
CALLE
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
San Fantin
Maria del Giglio
Casa di Marco Polo
Fontego dei Tedeschi
Ponte di Rialto Rialto
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice
DELLA
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
SANTO
DEL
CATERINA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
MARCO
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
SANTA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
Giudecca Hilton
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
SAN BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CATENE
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
FABBRICHE
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
TRAGHETTO
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL SOL
DEL
DEL
CALLE
ZATTERE
CALLE
LA
CAMPO DE LA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
LE
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
LE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal DEL
DE
LA
CARAMPANE
de r an
NARISI FOND.
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
San Trovaso CAMPO SAN TROVASO
DEL
San Felice
LE
Palazzo Fortuny
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
FALIER
BONLINI
TRAPOLIN
VENDRAMIN
CALLE
DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
DI SAN MARCO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
CA'
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
PERDON
CARROZZE
al G
SESTIERE
S. SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
Can Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE
FONDAMENTA
O
DE
Santa Fosca
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
CALLE
S. Samuele
CALLE
OGNISANTI
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
TIOZZI
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DE
ER
C.
Rio Nuovo
FOND.
IS
NA
DEI
C.
SCALETER
CALLE RAMO
PONTE
M
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
DE
DEL
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
TA
S.Stae
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
C.
EN
TRON
SAN
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
Accademia
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
MORETTI
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
D
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE
CROSERA
Ca' Rezzonico
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
N
CALLE
TABACCHI
Bacino
C.
DE
SAN BOLDO
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
Madonna
MORI
FONDAMENTA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
San Barnaba
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CALLE
NUOVA
PRETI
L’ASEO
NA
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
CA
DONZELA
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
DE OGNISANTI
LE
ALE
LA
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
NIE
DD
DE
PAPADOPOLI
TERÀ
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
.DA
MA
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
RIO
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
LA
La Maddalena
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
À D E
SOTOPORTEGO
LA
CALLE DE LA LACA
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
FO de Servi N
TER
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
Canale
DE
DE LA VIDA
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
Rio
SALIZADA
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
100 m
TERA’
RAMO
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
TINTOR
BESAGIO
Misericordia
FO
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
DEL
SALIZADA
della
Rio
San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE LUNA
MINOTTO
Magazen
CALLE
Rio
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano SAN
CALLE CAZZA
FONDAMENTA
CANAL
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RUGA BELA
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO
DEI
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
Rio
CALLE
C.
NUOVA
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
LARGA
PONTE PROCURATIE
DEI
CALLE
IA
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
BIASIO
DI
BARI
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
Scomen
CALLE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
DE L’OGIO
RD
R
VECCHIO
RIVA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
Rio
PENSIERI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ICO
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
SANT'ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
MADONA
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
TABACCHI
RIO
LA
MIS
RIO
NUOVE
CROCE
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
TA
E DEL PISTO
MUNEGHE
LA
CROCE
CALLE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
EN
STRADA
DE
SPAGNA
FONDAMENTA
Ferrovia
CORTE
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NICOLO’ SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
AM
CALL
San Leonardo
San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO
SCALZI
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
LA FO.
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
ND
I
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
CAVALLETTI
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
Rio
LER
NA
AI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
NS
DELL'ORTO
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
SE
FO
ER LE P
SE
TRONCHETTO
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Museo Ebraico CAL
A E M
CALLE
DEL
EN
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
LL
NOVA
AM
San Girolamo
CA
ISOLA
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
DEL
ZZ
CALLE
PU
SAVORGNAN
MATTIA
CA
PISCINA
LE
FO
LE
O
SAN
DE
AM
L’ARCO
TA
OL
CALLE
EN
DE
AM
N G IR
SAN
ND
SA
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA
VECCHIA
TA
LLO
RUGA
FO
EN
TE
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
TA
CALLE
FORNER
EN
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
DEL
AM
SEBASTIANO
CALLE
FO
ND
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
CAMPO SAFFA
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
Canale
GIOBBE
People Mover Venezia
della
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
BRAGADIN
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
VENIER FONDAMENTA
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
DEL SABION
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
CALLE
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
FONDAMENTA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
SANT'AGNESE
B
LA
Parco
LI
BRAGADIN
LA
PISCINA
EL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
INCURABILI
A
CALLE ZUCCHERO
VI
C A
FR
AN
VI
A
C
ES
S. Servolo
VI
A
SA
N
N TA
MA
P
O
N
M
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EL
AB
ET
TA
VI
A
IS
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GL
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VIA
VI
A
FA
SA
MA
ND
RO
GE
AQU
TA
VIA
ER
VI
GR
DO
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RI
Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia
VIA
GO
SAN MICHELE
SAN SERVOLO
LU
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
IO
VI
IP
R
O
VI
A
DE
LL
'O
SP
IZ
IO
M
AR
IN
O
RIV
RO
IER
CIP
A S A
Hundertwasser' Garden
VIA
N N IC
CALLE ORTI
IA
NI
A
IS
NA
A
D
A
LM
A
ZI
A
AR
M
M
ZO
AR
C
O
N
EL
LM
RE
CO
NI
VI
LO
LO
IE
A
GL
VI
GU
O
E
VIA CAN DIA
Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
VI
A
VIA
CA
ND
IA
SANDRO
LU
NG
OM
AR
O SE LV
PO
VI
VIA
VIA
ENIC
GALLO
DOM
CO
GALLIPOLI
VIA
JA
VIA
Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m
TR
VIA
SANDRO
ISOLA
GALLO
DI LEMNO
LU
Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
A
M
O
RO
SI
N
I
N
I
ISOLA DELLE ROSE
M O M EL
MB
ER
TI
Hotel Excelsior Venice
AN
LU
A
DR
EA
CA
LM
O
DI
CO
RI
NT
O
VI
N
G
O
M
AR
VI
TI
A
LA
LI
O
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NI
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TO
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AN
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E
VIA
ND
BU
D.
AR
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O
RO
TR
GA
PIE
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S. Antonio Di Padova
A
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VA
VI
A
J.
DI
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A
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IN
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SA
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SAN
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ON
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A
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DE
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TA
VIA M
GIOVANNI ON
DI
NI
PIVIDOR
I
A VI CO OC AM AL M
CC O AM AL M A VI
A RIN CA TE
CA LLE
AR INI
NTA
CATE NE
O
PIAZZA DELLE ERBE
ERÀ RIO T
O NI
RO UE SQ L DE
n ti
DI CA
ic a
nd
IM EN
DE TA
i M e
NT
I
E
FO
ND
AM
EN
De
R io
ELLO CAST
GIUSTINA SANTA
TI I OR GL DE LL E
CA
PIETA’
E CA ST
EL LO
ve
AMEN
TA A R SE
FONDAME
SA
A STR ETA
TA
N
GI
PP
E
San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA
TERÀ RIO
E N N LO O C LE AL C
E G
Russia Pavilion
IA
SAN T'EL
LE
CH
INO
TTO
LA
ERA
ENA
GEN
C.
SS PA
A
Sant'Elena
F. LL
E
CA
LL
CA
1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
7 PALAZZO DUCALE
2 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI
8 THE GHETTO
AL
E
VI
TT
OR
IO
VI
VE
AL
NE
E
TO
E
IV
CA
RN
NO
AR
VE
VI A
LE
SAN
T' EL
EN A
6
O
M
BR
SANT’ELENA
E
Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
9
PONTE DI RIALTO
10 MURANO
4 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO 5
H
7
TEATRO LA FENICE 6 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO
G
GN
ENA
ZU
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
T'EL ENTA SAN
NO
LE
FON DAM
E VIAL E PIAV
TI
see pages 4-5
3 CANAL GRANDE
F
BO
E
SA
ND
E
FO
NT
A
O
LL
M
DE
SO
I
IO
E
CAR
C VI
LO
LL
RIA
IO
C.
LI
PIZ
GE
CA
C. D EL
Parco delle Rimembranze
OS
RO
AN
UE
XXIV M AGG
CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O
Teatro Verde
EL
SQ
Japan Pavilion
CAL
CH
E
GR
MI
LL
MO
AN
E
L
CA
RA
E
LL
CA
LE
LL
ON LL E
CA
MAGGIORE
Top in Town
E
S MA
SAN GIORGIO
BB
RT
U I P
MA
I
IN
LO
DI
N
RD
EL
PO
N
United States Pavilion
VIALE
EL
EN TA AM
I
N
LO
5 A
EN
AL
PI
M CA
EN
VA
CC A
LL
AM
VI
E
M CA
EN
CA
LL
AM
E
CA
CA
ND
T
AM
IO
LA E PO
CE
TT E
FO
ZI
TA
D
Le Zitelle
Zitelle
L EL
N
G
LE
ION
NE
FO
N
AL
BB O
CE
O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA
LL E
ND
Giardini
ISOLA DI
SA
U
SA IST
CA
FO
E US
S. Giorgio
TA
Q
C.
NA
RI
R L C
MA
DE
CO
C.
RE
O
EL CA LL
ERA
O E ANC
SE
CAMPO SAN ISEPO
Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
LE
C A L L E C ATA PA N
CALL
RI
AL
SANT'ANNA
CALLE CORERA
ALDI
TI
IB PE GAR
AR
IAN
M
GIUSEP
E
SARES
Punta della Dogana
TT
CALLE
I S E
DOME NICO CALLE SAN
DE
VIALE
NA
PO E COP
IAVO E SCH
CALL
CALL
VA
SALUT E
F O N D A M E N TA
I
C
N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
BALD
GELO CALLE DELL’AN
GARI
AM ON
OS E CR
I
EPPE
A C. LOREDAN
San Francesco di Paola
RERA
VA E NUO
CALLE FRIZIER
CALL
DELFINA CALLE
GRIMANI CALLE
PRET E DEI
ESSO
E COLT
LAR
oise
IUS VIA G
CALL
VAL
RTIRI
O
I MA
100 m
N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA
CALL
CALLE
FO ND
LA TANA
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
SAL
LE
ST
E
DEI FORNI
CAL
V TA
CA
ION
RAMO DE
IN
DI
TAN A
O
DE LA
FONI
TR
CAM PO
MARA
CALL E
P IE
VID A
SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO
CALLE TERCO
NALE
AR
LA
A RO SA
CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA
FOND
E LA RG
RE
LE
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL
EMB
ENA
E IV NOV
ARS
SAL IZAD
E N TA
VIAL
DE I FO RN I
DE
DAM
N
CA LL E
CA LLE
FONDAMENTA
Arsenale
ini
mo DEI
ARSENALOTTI
M OR OSI NA
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
NI
FON
FONDAMENTA
Rio de San Gerola
DE L CA GN OL ET O
CAL LE
Verg
SA
ONI
CAL LE
S C H I AV
CA LL E
R I VA D EGLI
PES CAR IA
CALLE DEL DOSE
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
VONI
San Martino
CALLE DEL FORNO
I ITT GR
AL
E LL CA
CR OSE RA
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
RI
NDAM ENTA
de le
Arsenale di Venezia
RIN ST PE
L’A
CA LL E
E DE LL CA
RS EN
NATER PIG
DE
CALLE DE LA PIETA’
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
4
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
Rio d el Giardini
Nuo am Fond
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
Can
N SA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
ale
A IN SC PI
CO L’AR
L’AN ZO LO
enta
DE
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
IER
E
CASTELLO
DO NA
M AG NO CAL LE
DEL TE DEUM
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI
GRECI
CALLE DEI
OV
delle
E CAPP
FONDAMENTA
CALL
CAL PEL LO O CAP
NU
FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO
UCC INE
LE MUR
CALLE CAVALL I
CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE
AN A
IERA
DE LL A CO RO NA
C.
LEONAR DO
C. COR ONA
CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA
CALLE DE LE RASSE
ALBANESI CALLE DEL
SA NT ’A NT ONI O
CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I
RAM
DE LL E CA O
E
C.
ALL
C
C. DE LA MADONETA
L DO
SE
DE
DEL
L
PA
FR
RA
DIS
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L VO
IO
L
LT
O
NA VE
CA
LL
C.
E DE
DE
LA
STA GNERI
C. DEI
BA LO TE LE
BR ESS
SALIZADA
I SE M BA
LE
BO E
RI
LL
AP II
CA
A RI CE M ER
LO VO
CA LL E DE
SE
O
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Where Venice Magazine
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5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Danieli – Castello, 4196 • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – Campo Santa Maria del Giglio • E5 The Westin Europa & Regina –San Marco, 2159 • E5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Casanova – San Marco, 1284 • F4 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4
Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Cavalieri – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Ai Reali – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3
MORE ON WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM/DISTRIBUTION 64 W H E R E V E N I C E I J A N UA R Y 2018
Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) THERMAL HOTELS 5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro d’Abano, 1 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro d’Abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR DELUXE (L) & 4 STAR Garden Terme (S) – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd)
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