Where Venice June 2017 by Morris Media Network

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

JUNE 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

Venice

www.where-venice.com

YOUR

C IT GUID Y E

BLUE LAGOON A DAY CRUISE TO THE ISLANDS

GIFT IDEAS OUR PICK OF THE BEST SEASONAL TRENDS

VIVA ARTE VIVA ART BIENNALE 2017 13 MAY - 26 NOVEMBER

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Venice June 2017 the guide 20 SHOPPING

'Rosa Moceniga', a signature fragrance by The Merchant of Venice

BAGARON C A M PA LT O

34 DINING

MESTRE

An oasis of taste and relaxation, the exclusive Island of Roses is home to Michelin-starred restaurant Dopolavoro

FOCUS

44 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

SIGHTSEEING

The 'Torre dell'Orologio' and the complex mechanism of its astrological clock

Parco San Giuliano

ART GALLERIES

Liisa Hashimoto, Leaf Garden ring

HIA

ROS

CALLE

ERI

stol

CALLE

ti Apo San

dei Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

COR DEI LE

LLA

CAL

STE

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

LE STEL LA

CALL E

BAN DI CAL LE

TEST A E DE

CALL

DOSE E DEL CALL

NAVE

IOL

VOLT

TAR

ADI

DEL

FRU

PAR

DEL

CAL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

ZULIAN

DEL CAL LE

FOR DEL LE CAL

BALBI

APR II IA CER MER

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BAL OTE LE DE

SAN A CHI VEC

SALIZADA

EI BAS

ILE

BOM LE CAL

LOV O

CAL LE

CALLE

Palazzo Ducale

A N M

VONI SCHIA RIVA

DEGLI

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

Salute FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALUTE

Punta della Dogana

CATECUMENI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

SPIRIT

O SANTO

FONDAME

TE ZAT TA

San

BRAG

FOND

BILI

INCURA

CALLE

E ALLO

ETTO

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

AMEN

PISCINA

ZATTER

MENTA

FORNACE

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDA

SALON

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

E AI GESUA TI

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

Spirito Santo AM

BIA

Sant'Eufemia FO

'EU

FEM

ITE

FONDA

E COSM

ANDO A FERR

CALL

MENTA

PONTE

PICCOL

GIUDECCA FONDA

M E N TA

SAN GI ACOM

Redentore O

N CA

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

Giudecca Palanca EN

'OLIO

VERT

E DELL

E CON

ONDA

CALL

NGO

RETT

ANE

LAVR

OBIL

DE LE ERBE

PON

CALL

DE LA SACA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

Dol

Ca’

GA RU

Rio

APOSTO

PISTO

SANTI

DEL

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

ADA

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZ

EGIO

NAR

CAN

CALLE DEI FUSERI

PISCIN A SAN

BO A

DEL

ZELL

LLE

DON

C. NI

VAN GIO

L’ARC

SAN LE

CAL

E DE CALL RUG

LLE

CAL

CAT

SAN

ARINI

LUN

FOSC

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

ICO

Can ale

. MIS

HET A

RAC

ICE

LLE

FEL

SAN

NTA

ULI PRI

LLE

FOO RN O

DEL

VEL E LE

CA LLE

DE CAL LE

VER LLE

CA ’ D’O

SOF IA

TER BO DEI LLE CA

L’ANZ OLO

MAT

TIA

CALL E DE

DEL SABION CORTE

CANONI DE LA

VENIER PISCINA

FOND

ADIN

SAN TA

CAM PO

CAL

LA DE LE

CAL STU A

LA DE

FON DAM ENTA

DA PONTE DOGE DEL CALLE

TTI NTOFFE SANGIA

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

ORB I DEI

CAL LE

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A BEA TA CAL LE

INI CAR FOS RÀ TER RIO

RIO TERRÀ

TERRÀ

GNESE

RIO

SANT'A

Moise

MENTA

CALLE

MARCO

FONDA

I MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

NANI

ZZA

ESSO

TREDIC

CALLE

FOND

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

CAL

TRE VIS AN

CA LLE

DEL

A ROS DEL LE

IEL

CAL

PAN CAM LE

REG

DEL

INA

LI LIPO TA

DURO RE DORSO

TRA GHE TO

IO MEG E DEL CALL

STA

FOR

N SA

DEL

CAL

LIZ SA

UE GR LE

INA TI

LIZ

DO ON SEC

DEL CAL LE

TER RIO

O ROCC

ALBA E DEI CALL

CALL

FON

COLOM

FONTE

SALITA

GA LAR LE

A’

CALL

E DI

SESTIE FOSCARI CALLE

SAN

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Museo Correr

VALLAR

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

San Gio

DEL

CAMPO SAN ZUAN NOVO

LARGA

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE

EDIO REM LE CAL

CALLE DE

CALLE

I BALON

O PELL CAP

SAN

SIONE

EREMIT

FRUTARIOLI

CORTE

ASCEN

MENTA

LARGA

FONDA

CALLE

OTTI

Pa Q Sta

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL FORNO

C.DEI

Santa M Formo

BANDE

CORTE

DEI CORTELL

DE LE

CALLE

ZUL IAN

ETT

DEL TRAGHETTO

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

FONDAMENTA

VAPOR

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

DEL

CA TAS

Palazz

EOL

Rio

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

ETTI,

TI, ET RS

RÀ

RIO

BINA

CALLE

QUERIN

ZO MEZ

HIVIO

L’ARC E DRIO CALL

E SAN CALL

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

IA RER CE LA DE C.

CCA E SBIA CALL I SE GU RA A RG LA

LLE CA

CAL

NT A SA TA

TIM

RIT

PO NE ZIO RE DI

Rio Del

O SAT MUS

San Giuliano

GIO ROLO DELL’O

LE CAL

I HIER SPEC

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

SAN

E BIAN CALL

ALL CAV

ORS

SARTOR

CORTE BAROZZI

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

PIA

San Moisè

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

LIO

CORTE TORRETTA

CARRO

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

E’

DEI

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE

MOIS

LUCATE LLO

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

DEL

A ENT

DEL

DAM

CAP

BRI FAB

C. DEL

PISCI

XXII MARZO

LICINI

RIO LO GAL SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

FON

A DE PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

SAN

CORTE

OLINA GRAG LE COLONNE DE

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LE CAL

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

GIAZZO

RUBBI

MEZ O

IA DAR SPA

TER

CALLE

C. LARGA

CORTE

ARIA MARZ

STR

CAM SANTI GI E PAO

DEL

E DEI CALL

CASTEL

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

IAPIE RA

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

VERO

CALLE

Teatro la Fenice

CALLE

CAMPO

CAL LE

BALO TE

LE CAL

BRI FAB

DEL

ERIA SEL CAS

DEI

MINELL

RTA

IOL

ERIA

CALL GABRI E

G. GALLIN

LIO

LE CAL

LARGA

CALLE

SAN

lva

CAOTO

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG

C.DE

E C.

ERI

CALLE

Sa C.

FRUTAR

DEL

FREZZ

CORTE GRAGOLINA

AZZ

BOT

CORTE CORTESE

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

MAN

Santa Maria I MIRdei Miracoli

IZA

CALLE

GALIAZ ZO

C. DEL

SALVAD OR

C. DE LE COLONNE

NDE LOCA I

SALIZA

SAN

DEI

CAMPIELLO STELLA

WID

RIO

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

S.Canciano

ZEN MAGA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

SSIN

SAN

CALLE

ONA

LAR

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CAL C O RT E LE VAR B ATA G I A ISCO

Teatro Malibran

CORTE DEL

BON CAR

A LUC LE CAL

ASSA

Santa Maria del Giglio

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CANZIAN A SAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

PIO

MARZA RIA

MAR ZARI A DEL

DEL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

V O LT

Casa di Marco Polo

San Salvador

VER

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

FONTEG

Rio

DEL

RO TEAT LE CAL

San Fantin

CALLE

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

SAL

BO BEM

TEATRO

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

OLA MAND

SALI ZZA DA

MAZ ZINI

CORTE LE CAL

SAN

LARG A

RAMO

QUE

CIN

DOL

OPIA PISC

LLI CAVA

RIO

RIOL

COCCO

CAN

NER COR

PIC

SIM

SAN

ENT A

DAM

FON

TIM

RIT

FRUTA

CALLE

TOS

E CALL

E VENIE

CAL

BARBA

SAN SALVADOR

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

RNIN PATE

C. DEL

Rialto

E CALL

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Fontego dei Tedeschi

HE BRIC FAB

ORE

ANG

ZIO

CALL

SARTORI

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

DEI

PAR

ZEN

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Ponte di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CALLE DEL BASTION

DEL FORNO

ENTA

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

RIO

ULI

MARCO

ETIE

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

SALIZADA

DAM

CALL

STU

CAF

CHIES

UZZI

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

RINA

SALIZAD

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DEL

TI OCA

DEL

DELLA

CAPP

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

E CALL

CALL

CALLE

REA

RUG

TEA TR O

MAN

CAL

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

DEI

RAVA

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

GNES

PRI

CAL LE

AVV

NT'A

ENT A

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

Palazzo Grimani

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

C.SA

CAL

ari

CAL

DEL

TER

BOT EGH E

Accademia

. S.AND

DAM

Santa Sofia

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO PISANI

CATE

FOND.

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI

FOND

San Silvestro

de ran

Santo Stefano

San Vidal

CALLE

FON

CAL

DEL

ENTA

SAN

CAL

ETA

RUGH

RIO

DEI LAVRANE

E CALL

SACCA

. NARI

DAM

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

FISOLA

LARGA

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUT I

SAN

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CALLE

STU A

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

IER

ZATTER

CHIESA

FOND

CRO SER A

FAL

MENTA

DELLA

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E UEL SAM

FONDA

CALLE

DEL

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

CAL

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 1

Giudecca Hilton

BIAGIO

CA’

DE L

Palazzo Loredan

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SACCA

S. Samuele

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

SAN

BOT A

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

FON

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

GALIZ

LON

DEI

OZZE CARR

ZEL

CA’

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele LE

DON

PON

Sant’Aponal

CAL

E AL

TER

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

DA IZA SAL

E DE CALL

al G

SESTIERE

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

Ca' Rezzonico

ANI GRIM

ZAT

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

LINI

E CALL

BON

CAL LE DE

AMP ANE

FORNO

NTA

ENTA

CAR

DEL

CAL LE RAMO

San Trovaso

DAM

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

CALLE BERNARDO

FON

' VE

ERA

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Ca' Rezzonico

S.Silvestro

Can

San Tomà

CHI TODES

SANT

LE CAL

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

C. DEI

OGNI

CAL LE

CARAMPANE À

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

LE SAMUE

. DE

TER

RIN PEST

S. Basilio

100 m

FOND

CAMPO APONAL

San Barnaba

DON SAN PER

SERA

DE OGNISAN

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

A S. PISCIN

ENTA

AME

L’AG NEL LA

CAMPO SAN POLO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

E CRO

FONDAM

FOD

E DEL CALL

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

CORTE DEL TEATRO

LET

CALL

BESAG

SCA

TOMÀ

DEI PUTI

DA SAN

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DORSODURO

INI

Abazia Rdella Misericordia D

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CALLE

IAN

SALIZA

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

DE INC INI

DEL

HETT

SPORCAE CALLE PAZIENZ DE LE

AST

CALLE SAN BASILIO

TRAG

TIOZ

E DEL

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DEI

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

SAN

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

SEB

San Sebastiano

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAL

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CALL

E DE

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

nde Canal Gra

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZ

SAN

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

A ENT

DON

DAM

LAR

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAL

TTO

CALL

FOMO

Santa Fosca

E DOL

SER

E RENIE

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FON

CALL

CRO

MADONA

CAL

SAN POLO

GHE

Car

NT AR

San Felice

DE LA

CAL LE

RAMO

PRET

CALLE

E DEI

SAN

TTO

Santa Maria dei Carmini

OCHE

TRA

del

ORE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

min

Rio

E ZANE

DEL

IAT

TERÀ

ALE

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

Basilica dei Frari

TINT

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CAMPO SAN STIN

rto

S.Stae

CAL

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

a de

RIO

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

DEL

CAL

TALO

NUOVO

C. DE

DIA

Angelo Raffaele

E LE

CALL

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

ESI

RIO TERA’

RIELO

MEZ

San Rocco

tini

CALL

ll'O

LA TT

E TRON

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

OCH

C.VE

CALLE DELL'OLIO

CALLE ORSETTI

O NZAT

GO RTE OPO SOT

TOR

CIM

PAN

CANAL RIO TERA’

LLE

LORENZ

CALLE CASE NUOVE

SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CAL

TIN

DAR O

San Pantalon

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALL

L’ISOLA

DEL

A mixture of history and legend, D O R S O D U R O all the secrets of Venetian cuisine. NIC

MATTA DI CA’

DE LA VIDA

CAL

FON

RAM

CIM

A SAN

SSA

RAMO

BASEG

RIO

Casino di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CAL

ttim a

MENTA

TERA’

CALLE CAZZA

RUGA BELA

CALL

CALLE

LAC

E C AN

La Maddalena

CAMPO SAN ROCCO IZAD

CALLE

NTA

DE L’OGIO

C. SAN

’

ete

USE

CALLE

OLO

SAL

CALLE CONTARINA

A A MART SANT

L' ARZE

TA DE

AMEN

DEI FONTEGH

AMEN

FOND

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

Rio dei Tolen

FONDA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

ion

SIM

AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

BAR

URATI

DEI

oS taz

A OV

CERER

OTT

RAG

cin

LAR

DEI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

À D E

S.Marcuola

RUGA VECCHIA

CALLE DE LA LACA

ESI

lla

ETTI MOR

MENTA

FON

FONDA

ERI

CALLE

TER

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

CAL

ENT A MIN

San Marcuola

DEL REMER

MADON

BAR

LIS

CAL

PAZ CAM

Rio

Del

DIETRRIO TERÀ O LA CHIE

CAMPIELLO

FO de Serv N.D AN i IEL

RIO

San Leonardo

BIAS

E DEL PISTO

EONARDO

RAM

DAM

o de

LE CAL

LU CO

LUN

CAL

A CALLE

FOND

TA PROC

AMEN

SAN LEONARDO

San Simeone Profeta

TA RIZZI

CAZZIO

FOND

MENTA

AMEN

A RIVA

DEI AMAI

gaz

FONDA

42 IN SEARCH OF

E NUO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

RIO

Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

IERI

FOND

CAS

ENT

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

DAM

Soranzo Cappello

PENS

RTE

CAM

FON

CHI

DEI

TERÀ

C. LAVADOR

Rio Nuov

ACC

RIO

HIO

'ANDR

CALLE

TAB

TABAC

SANT

ICA

TERÀ

NUO

TA FABBR

RIO

AMEN

PIAZZALE ROMA

CAL

FOND

PAPADOPOLI

People Mover Venezia

TRONCHETTO

. LA

Giardino Papadopoli

Miser

icordi

Rio

CALL

nde l Gra Cana

Giardino di Palazzo

NTIN

TOLE

'AN

FONDAMENTA

Sant'Andrea

. DEI

FON

TER

Ponte della Costituzione

Several of the bestScity dining A N TA CROCE at top hotels in Venice. RIO

TÀ ER LIB

Ferrovia

E STRE

Ferrovia

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

P.le Roma

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DE Ponte degli Scalzi

People Mover Venezia

AG SP

O ITTI

San Geremia

CAT

Riva de Biaso

LLE

MER

NESI

ALZ

A ST

FON

EZIO

36 TOP HOTEL RESTAURANTS DIR

I CALLE ORSETT

della

CRI STO

LO EL RI E LL CA

RÀ

Rio

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

MIN CA L DE LLE CA

RO SA PE E LL CA

I SC

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

Madonna dell'Orto

'ORT

CAMPO FON DAM D E I M O R I ENT A DEI MOR I

ICO

MIS

Santa Maria di Nazareth

A DELL

VECCHIO

ONN

CALLE TRAGHETTO

LER

A E M

ER LE P

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

CAL

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

People Mover Venezia

MAD

» MAP PAGES 62-63 FO

RIO T ERÀ FA R S

CAL

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

ENTA

CAMPO SAFFA

DAM

CANNAREGIO CA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO ISO

OND

ROT

CAN

LAR

CAL

O ITEL CAP E DEL NS

MUN EGH E

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

San Giobbe

Loved by tourists, the island is famous for its colourful houses and its handcrafted lace.

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FON

CAL LE

DAM

CanaENTA CAN le di NAR Cann EGI O aregio

GIO

RTI

STIAN

FON

NVE

LL VE E CC GH HI ET O TO

INE

LLO

MASEN

G PIAV

LAR

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

San Girolamo TE

IAN

CALL

N G IR

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

Ponte dei Tre Archi

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

BURANO

B AT

ADIN

R SEBA

BRAG

VENIE

TTI

la Sen

AMEN

del

AMEN

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

ise

Rio O COLE

di Sa

nt'Alv

.A CARL

FOND

Rio

FOND

NUOVE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CALLE

ITEN

Like us on facebook.com/WhereVenice

Take advantage of your stay in Venice to enjoy this season’s latest offerings.

PEN

CASE

32 STROLLING THROUGH GA

18 GIFT GUIDE

LAR

issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines

I CASE

CAL

’

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

F O N D A M E N TA

DELLE

CALLE

OSS

Parco

MENTA

Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer

FONDA

Take a trip to discover the authentic side of Venice, whose islands gave birth to Venetian civilization.

TO THE ISLANDS

www.where-venice.com Download all issues www.magzter.com Digital magazine store

12 A DAY CRUISE

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

The monumental Rialto Bridge and its surroundings.

MUR

58 ESSENTIALS

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO

STAY IN TOUCH

10 DISCOVERING RIALTO

A pick of large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries. CA

Detail of the spiky blue "Comet Glass Star" sculpture. Created in Murano by master glass maker Simone Cenedese for Christmas 2007. © Dreamstime

30 ART GALLERIES

COVER

This month's round-up of shows, art exhibitions, and concerts.

6 HOT DATES

VIVA ARTE VIVA ART BIENNALE 2017 13 MAY - 26 NOVEMBER

GIFT IDEAS OUR PICK OF THE BEST SEASONAL TRENDS

A DAY CRUISE TO THE ISLANDS

BLUE LAGOON

Immerse yourself in a world of nature, art and wellness at several of the Veneto region’s most alluring destinations

Discover artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops.

’

Enjoy the city, starting from PORTO MARGHERA its main landmark attractions.

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Contents

YOUR

www.where-venice.com

Venice

'Viva Vivaldi', a must-see extravaganza, hosted just steps from St. Mark's Square, has arrived in the city!

ISO

JUNE 2017 THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO

ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

ISOLA D

52 ENTERTAINMENT

AMEN

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Venice ®

WELCOME TO VENICE

M A G A Z I N E

www.where-venice.com WHERE ITALIA SRL

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

Andrea Jarach (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) EDITORIAL (PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL) MANAGING DIRECTOR

Daniele Misrachi

EDITORIAL COORDINATION

Alessandra Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz, Elena Binda, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici,

Joy Lacanlale

WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime,

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CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban File - www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy") PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR Paola Grilli ADMINISTRATION Katia

Greto

LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria

Granata (maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina

Senatore

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG

The one thing that everyone loves about Venice, is the fact that in spite of having been an international crossroads since the dawn of time, it’s the country’s most tradition-bound city. Venice has its own way of naming streets, maneuvering boats, working glass and cooking fish. It has its own culture, which have not been influenced by centuries of trade with Arab merchants and Northern European poets, age-old associations with the Far East and or even Hollywood invasions. Venice is not global. Venice is Venice, and June is the perfect month to discover this. For starters, the first Sunday of the month is dedicated to the ‘Vogalonga’, a 30-kilometer regatta that is held annually in the Lagoon to raise awareness about its ecosystem and preserve the tradition of the ‘voga veneta’, in other words, the traditional Venetian rowing style used by gondoliers, which is one of the city’s distinctive features. The season’s most social event takes place on 12 June with an aperitivo ‘chez Peggy’ (read Guggenheim), a happy hour at the Guggenheim Museum featuring DJ sets and works of art. A typically cosmopolitan event? Yes, in spite of the fact that the official aperitivo is a Spritz, the typical cocktail drunk by young Venetians. On 21 June, the city comes alive with Museum Night and don't miss ‘Viva Vivaldi’, a lavish multisensory experience, featuring large HD images, special olfactory effects and, naturally, music. A unique experience designed to offer visitors an opportunity to gain insight into the life and works of Vivaldi, the composer of the Four Seasons. For more information regarding these initiatives, see pages 6-9. Other highlights include the Art Biennale and Damien Hirst’s amazing exhibition devised specifically by the artist for Venice. Use your copy of Where to find out what’s on in the city. And then… relax and lose yourself amidst its ‘calli’ (squares). You’re in Venice, it’s summertime in Italy; who could ask for more? Elena Binda, Editor

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue.

IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl

EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris

IV Manning

Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

Published in association with

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Morris Visitor Publications

Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

© svida_WhereItalia Visitors can enjoy a 360-degree view over the rooftops of Venice from the small terrace of the Contarini del Bovolo staircase. Combining Venetian Gothic, Byzantine and Renaissance elements, this jewel of architecture owes its charm to its unparalleled beauty and a small mystery associated with its origins and the unknown architect who built it. Iconic, beautiful and… imperfect!

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[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in town

Palazzo Ducale

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000; inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. Map F4 

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. 

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that once connected Palazzo Ducale to the prisons. The Bridge of Sighs is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. It can be accessed when visiting Palazzo Ducale. Map F4 

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can

4 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Map E4  TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. Map E5  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built

MORE AT PAGE 45 MAP PAGES 62-63

as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plaguestricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures. Map D4 

PHOTO © DANIMISRA

PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it is superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. Map F4 

Canal Grande

Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower

Ponte dei Sospiri

EDITOR'S TIP

11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. It is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History. Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

Punta della Dogana

A breathtaking view from the Tower of Punta della Dogana with the golden Skull of a Unicorn by Damien Hirst in the foreground. © svida_WhereItalia

JUNE

HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.

6 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

JUNE ART

9 3 APRIL

DECEMBER

DAMIEN HIRST UNVEILS SUNKEN TREASURES A complex, ambitious project, billed as “10 years in the making.” Damien Hirst’s mythological extravaganza tells visitors about the findings of an archaeological excavation that salvaged the precious cargo of an ancient ship called the ‘Unbelievable’. Discovered in 2008, the ship carried an immense collection of sculptures, jewels and coins, amassed by Aulus Calidus Amotan, a freed slave turned wealthy man from Antioch. True or false? Visitors are greeted by a bizarre, ambiguous world, huge sculptures and collections of precious artifacts, dredged up from the depths of the ocean to generate questions and create disbelief. This vast exhibition is displayed across 5,000 square meters of museum space at Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, the two Venetian venues of the Pinault Collection, both dedicated for the first time ever to the works of a single artist. A unique experience: Damien Hirst’s first major solo exhibition in Italy is at once sensational, overwhelming and bizarre. Treasures from the Wreck of the Unbelievable Palazzo Grassi, Campo San Samuele 3231 / Punta della Dogana, Dorsoduro 2 Open 10am-7pm (closed on Tuesdays) www.palazzograssi.it

Palazzo Grassi

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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES TRADITION

ROWING VENETIANSTYLE

▼ Established in 1974, and based on an idea by a group of non-professional Venetian oarsmen, Vogalonga is a 30 km rowing marathon open to both professionals and amateurs. JUNE The 30km course runs from the northern lagoon past the islands of Sant'Erasmo, Burano and Mazzorbo, and through the centre of Murano before returning to Venice via the Canale di Cannaregio, proceeding down the Grand Canal to the finish line. The competition is open to all members of the rowing community and involves the participation of craft of all shapes and sizes. A carnival procession and a sporting event; the Vogalona Regatta is a colourful, enjoyable event for participants and spectators.

43rd Vogalonga of Venice www.vogalonga.com

CULTURE

A MAGICAL ART NIGHT

▲ Hundreds of cultural hubs, including museums, foundations, galleries, bookstores and cinemas, stay open JUNE until 1am to offer visitors guided tours of exhibitions and churches, concerts and meetings, workshops for children and film screenings. For the seventh consecutive year, from 6pm onwards, Venice comes alive with a lavish program of events dedicated to culture and the discovery of the treasures of the Lagoon. The Grand Opening of the event will be held at the main headquarters of the Ca’ Foscari University, the spectacular palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal. >> NEW This year, on Sunday 18 June, the event will be extended to include the exclusive ‘in blu’ happening on the island of San Servolo (by reservation only). Scheduled from 9am to 1pm, it will feature a picnic lunch, kids activities, discovering the island’s vegetation and a meeting with chef Simone Rugiati.

Art Night Venezia Università Ca’ Foscari, Dorsoduro, 3246. www.artnightvenezia.it

ENTERTAINMENT

12 JUNE

CHEZ PEGGY ◄ Spend an unusual evening with friends admiring the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and listening to DJs Daniele Baldelli and Nan Kolè spinning exhilarating cosmic house tracks in the Nasher Sculpture Garden. During the Happyspritz@ Guggenheim event, guests will have chance to admire the rich collection of works at the Guggenheim, a museum created by Peggy Guggenhein on the Grand Canal, while enjoying an aperitivo. Tickets cost €13 and include two drinks (the event’s official aperitivo is a Spritz) and a special after-hours tour of the museum (from 7pm onwards).

HappySpritz@Guggenheim c/o Peggy Guggenheim Collection Dorsoduro 701. T: 041 2405411 www.guggenheim-venice.it/happyspritz

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JUNE ART BIENNALE

13 26 MAY

NOVEMBER

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE ► 2017 ◄ JUNE/JULY Vogalonga (4 June) > 43rd edition of the 30 km rowing marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano, Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal. The competition is open to the public. Biennale of Dance > (23 June-1 July) Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event is the Island of San Pietro di Castello.

JULY/AUGUST Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer > (16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks. Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August)

VIVA ARTE VIVA ▼ The 57th Art Biennale is an event that attracts the world’s best contemporary artists and offers visitors an amazing selection of works, installations, live performances, and multiple opportunities to reflect on the present. Human beings, their creative ability and their need for interaction take centre stage at this edition chaired by Paolo Baratta and curated by Parisian-born Christine Macel, Chief Curator at the Musée d’Art Moderne at the Pompidou Centre.

The theme of this edition is ‘Viva Arte Viva’, an exclamation, a passionate appeal for art and the state of the artist which, according to Christine Macel ,“celebrates mankind’s ability, through art, to avoid being dominated by world affairs. The artistic act is simultaneously an act of resistance, liberation and generosity.” Out of the 120 artists who have been invited to the exhibition, 103 are participating for the first time. The exhibition is hosted at two venues - the Arsenale and the Giardini - and features 87 national pavilions, each with its own curator and project, as well as an international exhibition organized by the Biennale di Venezia. To highlight the theme of this 57th edition, a cornucopia of live performances will be staged during the six months of the exhibition. The majority of these performances will be held at Central Pavilion, designed as a trans-national pavilion. TEN DAYS OF DANCE  Organized from June 23 to 1 July, the 11th International Festival of Contemporary Dance, directed by Marie Chouinard (see photo) and titled “First Chapter”, will include a 9-day schedule of events featuring up to 5 performances daily; there will be 26 choreographic works, 9 of which will be Italian première performances and 1 European première, in addition to 3 short original creations. For more information visit the website www.labiennale.org.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art > (30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th consecutive year, the exhibition is organized by the Biennale of Venice. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) > One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October) Venice Marathon (22 October) NOVEMBER Festa della Salute > 21 November A popular religious feast day. DECEMBER Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica ► 2018 ◄

JANUARY New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic selections at La Fenice Opera House. FEBRUARY Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. APRIL Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark > (25 April) In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day. Venice Night Trial > (28 April) Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice. MAY Biennale Architettura 2018 (26 May-25 November, Arsenale and Giardini) > 16th International Architecture Exhibition Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 10 May) > A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ (Marriage of the Sea) ceremony w w w.wh e ret r ave l e r. com 9

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A magnificent aerial view of Veniceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northern Lagoon, interspersed with narrow strips of land. Pictured top left is the beautiful Island of Torcello, illuminated by the sun. Formerly home to monasteries, hospitals and armories, many of the islands that were abandoned over the centuries are now the focus of major redevelopment projects. 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017 ISOLA CARBONERA

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FONDAM

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CAVALLI

CALLE MASSA C. DE LE MOSCHET E

CALLE

San Lorenzo

PIETA’

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

O ANO

DEL TE DEUM

MURAZZO

DEL CAFETIER

CAPPELL

FOND GIOV AMEN ANNI TA LATER

RAMO

SAN

C. DE LA MADONETA

DOSE E DEL

TARI

CALLE

DELLA

DE LE TOLE

CALLE DEL FO

BRESSA

VENIERA

CALLE

BARBARIA

CALLE

CALL

Santa Maria del Pianto

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ADI

E DEL

VOLT

NAVE

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALL

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

MEN

DEL

CALL E

BAN DI

CAL LE

FOR

DEL

CAL

FORNO

DE LE ERBE

CALLE

SALIZADA

EI BOM

CAL

APOSTO

SANTI

C.SAN T’ANT ONIO

RIO TERRÀ

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

VAN

L’ARC

GIO SAN

E DE

CHI

CALL

VEC A

RUG

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINENG O O D. PALLE

GIAZZO

CAMPO SAN LIO

FON

dei

Rio

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAGAZEN

DON

CALLE

COR

SOF IA

SAN TA

EGIO

CAM PO

NAR

CAN

CALLE

CAMPO

BAS

CALLE

TIA

L’ANZ OLO

CAL

DON

ZELL

DEL

DEI

CAL

TER

STU A

E DE

RINI

FOSCA

lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia

SAN

LUN

ale

CAL

ICO

ICE

CAL

ULI

Dol

FOO RNO

Ca’

DEL

Rio

VEL E

CAL LE

PISTO

DEL

VER

ADA

LLE

D’O

CA’

ROS

DEL

IEL

CAL

PAN

CAM

INA

DEL

REG

SALIZ

DEL

FON DAM ENTA

Can

. MIS

RAC

HET A

FEL

SAN

ENT A

DAM

FON

PRI

CAL

CAL LE

TRA GHE TO

DRIO

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

CALLE VERRO DEL CCHIO

LAR

CAL

TRE VIS AN

CAL LE

RÀ

OND

SEC

HIVIO

L’ARC

ETTI,

TI,

FA R S

RIO T ERÀ

MEG

E DEL

CALL

FOR

DEL

CAL

LIZ

A’

O MEZZ E DI CALL

CALLE

CASTEL

ORBI

F. CONDULMER

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

DEI

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

LAR

NT A

PIC

SAN

ENT A

DAM

FON

De e

MAG NO

CAL LE

Nuo

enta

dam

e Fon

dell

ale

Can

CALLE DEI

ENAL

A STRETA

Rio de San Gerolamo

CAG NOL ETO

L’ARS

SALIZAD

PESCAR IA

DEL

CALL E

CALLE

CALL E

FORN I

DEI

AMEN

FOND

CALLE

CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

LEONARD O

C. CORONA

LA SACRESTIA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CALLE DEL DOSE

DELL A CORO

FRU

PAR

DEL

CALL

SAN T’AN TON IO

CAL LE

BALBI

ZULIAN

LLE

RE EMB E IV NOV

Japan Pavilion

NT E

C. D EL

SAN GIACOMO

FONDAMENTA

RIO CROCE

DE LE ERBE

LUNGO

PONTE

ngo

FIANCO

ENTA

e Lu

FONDAM

CALLE

ANDO FERR

CALLE

Pont

LA EL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

Parco delle Rimembranze VI

VIAL

E SAN

T'EL

ENA

SANT’E

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

ERBE

TTO

INO

E DE

del

ERA

HANS

CALL

GEN

Teatro Verde

JUNG

Rio

ENA

CAL

ENA

DELLA

Santa Croce

SANT'EL

CALLE

CROCE

CAR

ENTA SANT'EL

O MP

Redentore

Santissimo Redentore

FONDAM

SAN GI ACOM

CALLE MORE

CALLE ALBERO

VIALE PIAVE

MAGGIORE

M E N TA

FONDA

SCUOLA

Le Zitelle

SAN GIORGIO

PICCOL

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

U I P

VIALE

VIAL

United States Pavilion

Russia Pavilion

ISOLA DI

Rio d el Giardini

S. Giorgio

CALLE DELA CREA

Spirito Santo

NTA ZATTERE

CALLE MONTELLO SAN ELE NA

DEL

CAL LE

CAL

CALLE RIMPETTO

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI

CALLE DEL

STAGNE RI

C. DEI

BALO

PISCIN A SAN

ILE

APR

CAL

CER

MER

LOV O

CAL LE

TER ZAT TA EN AM

DEL SABION

CORTE

O ISEP ONIO SAN 'ANT TERÀ SANT DO E PALU CALL DO E PALU CALL

Giardini

CALLE ZUCCHERO

San Giuseppe di Castello RIO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

STIAN

ADIN

VENIER

R SEBA

BRAG

VENIE

PISCINA

AMEN

FOND

NESE

ADIN

SANT'AG

BRAG

PISCINA

AMEN

FOND

BILI INCURA CALLE

CALLE DEL FORNO

DA PONTE

DOGE

CALLE

DEL

INI

CAR

À FOS

TERR

CALLE DEI FUSERI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

ORB I

DEI

CAL LE

GIU STIN IAN

EUF EMI A

BEA TA

CAL LE

TTI

NTOFFE

SANGIA

ENTA

FONDAM

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DURO

E DORSO

SESTIER

FOSCARI

CALLE

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

RIO

TTA

E STRE

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

CALL

NANI

CENET

O E PIETRA CORT LIESIN DA

AMEN

IST

FOND

R L C

'OLIO

ION

ENTA

ALDI

FONDAM

CALLE

E DELL

C A L L E C ATA PA N

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

LLO

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

CALL

LLE

AVA INT

LLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

F O N D A M E N TA

CALLE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

POLAC

CALLE

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

BALD

COPPO

I S E

ROSA

SALAMO

CALLE

CROSE

CALLE FRIZIER

GARI

EPPE

San Francesco di Paola

SCHIAVONA

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

C. LOREDANA

IUS VIA G

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello

CALLE

STE

FONDAME

CALLE

ILI

ini

LA TANA

CALLE

NALE

COLTRERA

NOB

TA A R SE

CALLE

DELFINA

100 m

LIPOL

E STRE

MUN EGH E

CALLE

ROCC

NESI

E SAN

ALBA

CALL

E DEI

CALL

E SBIA

CALL

LAR

LLE

Verg

RAMO DE

GRIMANI

DEI

AMEN

TANA

CALLE

E GRAN

FOND

DE LA

CALLE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

de le

CALLE TERCO

CAMPO

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

Arsenale

TRO

DEI FORNI

ENA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ARS

PIE

VIDA

NUOVA

MIA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

ADE

CALLE

E N TA

OSPIZ

E CORT

MOR OSIN

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

SALUTE

E ACC

DEI

SAN

ONI

FON

FONDAMENTA

ARSENALOTTI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

DEGLI

CALL

S C H I AV

San Martino

CALLE

CALL

R I VA D EGLI

CAL LE

CATECUMENI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

TI GRIT

DEI PRETI

TTI

E CALL

CRO SER A

CALLE

DEI CORTELLO

E DE CALL

CAL LE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

RUGA VECCHIA

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

C. VOLTO

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN PEST

CALLE

Moi

CALLE

ER PIGNAT

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

VONI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

SAN

DEL PIOVAN

MARTIR

San

RIDOTTO

ROTON

TIN MAR

INA PISC

L’ARCO

FONDAMENTA

RIVA

ESSO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

MENTA

VONI SCHIA

VALLAR

CALLE

FONDA

CALLE

DA SALIZA

CALLE TERAZZERA

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

SCHIA

ANTONIN

TION BAS

SAN

DEL

I I SCUD DEGL

DEGLI

L’AN ZOL O

E CALL

San Zaccaria

DON A

CALLE

CALL

ERI

CER

GATE

DRASI

CALLE

LE A DE SALIZAD

SIONE

CAM

CALLE

R I VA

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

SALIZADA

CALLE BOSELLO

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

ASCEN

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

Punta della Dogana

PONTE

FONDAMENT A PALLADA

CORTE SACCA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

eaching the Lagoon’s major islands is easy if you have access to GaI Uprivate D E C C A water taxi which offers visitors greater freedom of movement. However, the islands can also be accessed by the city’s public vaporetti (in this case, we suggest that you purchase a 24-hour ticket which allows for unlimited travel throughout the day). ENTA

SCUOL

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

LARGA

DEI PRETI

DE L’OSMARIN

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

CALLE

NTA FONDAME

TTO

Palazz

EOL

ALLE CAV

ORS

Palazzo Ducale

N SA

A ZORZI SALIZAD

C. PIANTO

Museo Correr

Ca' Giustinian

FONDAMENTA

FONDAM

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

CALLE ERIZZO

A GIUFF

MARCO

CANONIC DE LA

Basilica di San Marco

O SEVER

SAN

CALLE

O MEZ

RUGA

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

RC MA

SAN

ZZA

CORTE

NUOVA

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Rio Del

DEL

A ENT

DAM

BRI FAB

FON

ELLO CAPP

E DE CALL

SAN

IO ROLOG DELL’O

DEI

E BIAN CALL

PIA

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

EDIO REM

San Giovanni Novo

DEL

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

I BALON

CORTE TORRETTA

Bacino Orseolo

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

BANDE

CORTE

LE CAL

I HIER SPEC

IA DAR SPA

ARIA MARZ

LE CAL

C. DE LE COLONNE

C.DEI

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

E DEI CALL

IVO RED

CALLE GOLDONI

LE CAL

TERÀ

SAN E CALL CAMPO SAN GALLO

CALLE

DEL FORNO

RIO

O GALL

A TASC

SATO MUS

CORTE

TA AMEN FOND

ZULI AN

GRAG LE COLONNE DE

LE CAL

San Giuliano

SAN

SANTA GIUSTINA

CORTE NOVA

Rio San Lorenzo

RI FABB

MAR ZAR IA

PIGN OLI

RIA SELE CAS

LUCATE LLO

DEI

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LICINI

MEZ O

LIO

DEI

E COSM

LE CAL

FEM

vad

'EU

CORTE

RUBBI

Zitelle

CALL

Sal

San

RIO TERRÀ

FORNACE

CORTE

CAL LE

CAPI

CARRO

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

SALONI

ERTIT

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

APIE RA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

Spirito Santo

Giudecca Palanca

STRA

DELL

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

SALIZADA

Salute

TERRÀ

E CONV

C. DEL

BALO TE

San Moisè

CORTE BAROZZI

LIO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

IOL

DEL

SAN

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARGA

CAMPO

SALVAD OR

PRIMO INA RAMOCONTAR CORTE

RIO

FREZZ

GALIAZ ZO

MAR ZARI A DEL

ERIA

E’

TELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAGI

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Palazzo Genovese

FONDAMENTA

FONDAME

GIO

Sant'Eufemia

O SANTO

SAN

C.DE

CALLE

MOIS

DEL TRAGHETTO

BIA

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

MARZA RIA

ZZE

XXII MARZO

San Gregorio

DEL FORNO

C. DEL

SABION

Rio

CCA

al an

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CALLE

CORTE DEL

CALLE

BON CAR

DEL

ETTO

CALLE GABRIE LI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

SPIRIT

CALLE

LARGA

CALLE DEL BASTION

SALIZADA

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

E ALLO

A DE

PISCI

SARTOR

ZATTER

CORTE

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE DEL NAVARO

MENTA

C. DEL

VAPOR

VENEZIA

DIS

G. GALLIN

ACO

Teatro Malibran

OLINA

FRUTAR

DEL

LARGA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

SAN BORTOLOMIO

PISCIN

LA CHIESA

DRIO

MICHIEL

CALLE

FONDA

VERO

E AI GESUA TI

Zattere

CALLE

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIES

ZZI

RTA

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPU

San Fantin

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

ETIE

CALLE

MINELL

NANI

CALLE

LON

NDE LOCA

CALLE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIR

LEN

REMER

TIM

DEI

SAN

RIT

RIO

BER

SAN CANZIAN

LLE

CORTE NOVA

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL

MAN

IZA

WID

ERI

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

SAL

BOT

VAR ISCO

S.Canciano

EN MAGAZ

DEL

ONA

SAN

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

ASSA

DEL

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

ESE

A LUC

LE CAL

VER

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

BONL

INI

PON

BO BEM

DEI

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

FONTEG

PIO

Casa di Marco Polo

San Salvador

DEL

SSINI

CAOTO

Canal Grande

C.SAN

T'AGN

RO TEAT

E CALL

CALLE

OLA

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

LE CAL

CAL LE

C O RT E B ATA G I A

SALIZA

MAZ ZINI

R ND

CAMPO PISANI

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

CALLE

E CALL

LAR

LLO

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

O DEL

CINQ

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

CORTE

TEATRO

TERÀ

RIO

San Trovaso

NIN PATER

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

San Vidal

SAN

LARG A

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CAMPO MANIN

San Maurizio

FAL

AMEN

ERE

Santo Stefano

FOND

ZATT

BOT EGH E

CAL

ANTI

NTA

CAF

IER

OGNIS

. DE

DOL

FOND

E CALL

MAND

CAL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

DE OGNISAN

AME

OPIA PISC

ENTA

TEA TRO

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Palazzo Loredan

DEI PUTI

FONDAM

CRO SER A

Accademia

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

E UEL SAM

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

CALLE

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

. NARI

TI OCA

OZZE CARR

FOND

MAN

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

E DE CALL

Palazzo Fortuny

DE L

DI SAN MARCO

S. Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

IAN

BESAGI

CHI TODES

SCOAZZERA DE LA

San Barnaba

DA IZA SAL

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE BERNARDO

Ca' Rezzonico

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

CA’

VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE

C. DEI

Car

Santa Maria dei Carmini

CAL LE

RAMO

LLI CAVA

CAL

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

STE

C. DEL

SALI ZZAD A

SAN SALVADOR

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

LE SAMUE

del

S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

RIN PEST

Rio

CALL E

E CALL

RAMO

DEI

Ponte di Rialto Rialto

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

NER COR

IOL

COCCO

CAN

RAVA

San Beneto San Luca

AVV

FRUTAR

CALLE

TOS

DEL

TER

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

San Silvestro

de ran

E VENIE

CAL

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

RIO

CALL

SARTORI

CORTE DEL REMER

RIO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

ETA

RUGH

CAL

ULI

SALIZADA

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Sant’Aponal DEL

CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE

ERA

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

min

ATI

L’ASE

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

al G

SESTIERE

A S. PISCIN

CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I

CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

Sant'Angelo

E CROS

BECARIE

MUT I

E DEL CALL

CALLE

FOMO

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

CA’

BOTA

DEL

Can

San Tomà

CALL

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E VOLT

SIM

ra ze en m Sco

O TIM

CALL

RIT

AMP ANE

E CALL

ZEN

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RION

DIR

STI

CAR

S.Silvestro

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

HETT

CATEN

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

AMEN

REA

PESCARIA

STU

SER

TRAG

RINA

LE CAL

E DEL

PRI

CATE

ORE

CAL

ENT A

FOND.

DAM

ANG

S.AND

FON

DEL

FOND.

Santa Sofia DA

CRO

CALL

CAMPO DELLA

ANI GRIM

nde Canal Gra

CAL

E CALL

CAL

RENIE

LE PAZIENZE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

CAL

DIR

CAL

CALLE

SANT

DEI

ttim

FOND

E RICH

CALL E DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

E DOLE

ari

NTA

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STU A

PAR

RIO

AME

FABB

L’AG NELL A

CALL

PRETI

TTO

DEI

GHE

ion

FOND

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

TRA

taz

DEL

CAMPO APONAL

CAMPO DEI FRARI

TTO

CALL

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

DON SAN PER

ORE

CALLE

AST

GALIZ

TALO

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

ANER

DEI

PAN

San Pantalon

SEB

LAVR

CAMPO DE LA

MADONA

A SAN

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

CALL E DE

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

IZAD

CALLE

SAN

DE LA SACA

Abazia della Misericordia D

LET

DE LA

TINT

ete

SAL

NUOVO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

A SAN

tini

A ENT

CALLE

I PON

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAL

BASEG

RIO

DAM

DEI LAVRANER

RUG

SCA

CAMPO SAN POLO

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

OTT

CALLE

ENTA

FON

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

San Cassiano

CAMPO

SAN POLO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

CAMPO SAN STIN

ZATTER

CHIESA

TIOZ

DE INCI NI

DEL

TOMÀ

MENTA

DELLA

DEI

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

FONDA

CALLE

Giudecca Hilton

San Gerardo

CA’BCAL ONVLE

BOL

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

BIAGIO

CAL

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

FORNO

MIN

FOD

SACCA

E ZANE

RAMO

ENTA

S. Basilio

SAN

San Felice

SAN

DEL

Del

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

Giudecca Hilton

' VE

CAL LE

CALLE

DAM

Rio dei Tolen

FONDAM

C. DE

DIA

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

SALIZAD

FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

SAN

ZEL

TERÀ

DON

RIO

FON

ESIN

RIN

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

CAL

cin

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CIM

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

Santa Fosca

SAN CASSAN

CAL

NTA

rto

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

CALLE DELL'OLIO

NO LA ISO

CALLE

CALL

OCHE

LAT

TOR

DAR O

SAN BOLDO

TIN

OCH

C.VE

a de

RTEG OPO SOT

CALLE ORSETTI

NZAT

DEL

RAM

RIO TERA’

BRI

DAM

San Sebastiano

100 m

LAC

CANAL RIO TERA’

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

DORSODURO

MEZ

ll'O

E TRON

CAMPO

Rio

gaz

LLE

ONI

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

CAL

PAZ CAM

CIM

Rio

E LARD

CALLE SAN BASILIO

CALLE DE LA LACA

SSA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

ESIN

Angelo Raffaele

BAR

CAL

CALL

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GLASS WORKSHOPS IN MURANO The Island of Murano, your first stopover of the day, can easily be reached from the centre of the city or Fondamenta Nuova. The island is famous throughout the world for its production of artistic glass. Although glass was originally produced in all areas of Venice, a decision was made at the end of the 13th century to move the glass factories to the city’s furthest island, to prevent the outbreak of fires caused by the furnaces. Murano thus became a glassmaking centre of excellence and, if the master glassblowers, who were in great demand in Europe, decided to leave the island to ply their trade abroad, they were forbidden to return to the city. This edict was because L intact I D Oits D I VENEZIA they used secret techniques and Venice wanted to be sure to keep monopoly of fine glass craftsmanship. While strolling through Murano, you will be struck by the vast array of glass works on display. However, don’t be fooled. If you want to make a purchase, make sure that the item has actually been created on the island. Authentic Murano glass products are protected by the Vetro Artistico Murano trademark. The trademark includes a sticker attached to the product on sale. Many glassblowing factories and exhibition spaces offer visitors a behind-the-scenes look at the masters sculpting and blowing delicate, colourful glass works of art, accompanied by explanations regarding time-honored glassblowing techniques. If you’re looking for something truly unique, head to Seguso and ask (ahead of time) to take part in a Seguso Experience, voted the best experience of the year in Italy in 2016 (www.seguso.com/experience). A family, which has been producing glass in Murano for the past 600 years will personally welcome you, and an expert guide, with a total passion for his job, will enlighten you about all the secrets of this technique. This is a unique opportunity to admire several of the best glass products in the world. ISOLA LA GRAZIA

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WHERE NOW | FOCUS Other glass factories worth visiting include Gambaro and Tagliapietra as well as Marina and Susanna Sent for the production of glass jewelry. The Church dedicated to Maria and Donato also deserves a visit. The exterior of the church, featuring a beautifully decorated apse, exemplifies the magnificence that awaits you inside. When visiting its richly decorated interior, make sure to admire its lovely marble and mosaic floor featuring eye-catching geometric patterns and the mosaic dome of its apse dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Before leaving the island, you can relax and drink a cup of coffee on the terrace of the Hotel LaGare, an intimate, laid-back space overlooking Murano’s Grand Canal. The Hotel is located only steps from the Glass Museum, which tells the story of this exclusive artistic technique with a stunning display of unique pieces (www.museovetro.visitmuve.it). Over the next few months, during the Art Biennale, the exhibition titled ‘Gaetano Pesce. Five Glassmaking Techniques’ (until 17 September) will offer visitors a chance to discover several works created by the renowned Italian architect, sculptor and designer, whose works incorporate either new glassmaking techniques or fresh variations on ancient ones. TORCELLO, A JEWEL OF THE LAGOON It’s now time to leave the island and head to Torcello. Inhabited by only 20 permanent residents, this gem of an island is definitely worth a visit. The history of Venice began in Torcello, which was first settled after the fall of the Roman Empire, as barbarian invasions (including those led by Attila the Hun) on the mainland led many to flee and seek new shelter in the Venetian lagoon. In ancient times, the island looked completely different, and the

Off the beaten track For those who are already familiar with the main islands of Venice but would like to discover new ones, here are a few suggestions. Just a short boat ride from Burano, you’ll find the picturesque, aptly named island of San Francesco del Deserto. There's no public transport to the island, so you'll need to catch a water taxi, or book a shuttle by contacting www.lagunafla.it. It pays to phone ahead to ensure there's a friar available. Francescan friars offer free tours of their secluded island home, which, according to legend was visited by St. Francis on his return from the East. The island was owned by a Venetian nobleman and, on his arrival, St. Francis was so impressed

14 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

by the peacefulness of his surroundings that he decided to use it as a retreat to pray and meditate. Today, the beautiful monastery and picturesque church still convey echoes of its storied past, and you will probably also be overcome with a desire to linger a little longer amidst its art, history and nature. The ideal place for those wishing to sojourn in the middle of the lagoon is the Island of Santa Cristina: an annex of Venice’s luxury Aman Hotel. In addition to its meticulous service, this island retreat is enhanced by fisheries, orchards, vineyards and a large villa with a swimming pool. A place where you can relax for a few days, discover peace and enjoy the magnificent view from its panoramic altana (sundeck). If you’re determined to discover the most

authentic side of Venice, we suggest having lunch on the Island of Vignole. Forget luxury, and, after strolling amidst its green spaces and orchards, enjoy the simple yet delectable cuisine offered by Trattoria alle Vignole. Although you’re unlikely to find many tourists here, the island is frequented by numerous Venetians, who have probably taken an opportunity to enjoy a boat ride. Although fish dishes take centre stage, you can also try several dishes made with locally grown vegetables, which therefore have a particularly appealing taste. A great place to sample authentic Venetian gelato is the nearby Island of Certosa, a beautiful Marine Resort and the city’s public park, where amidst boats small and large, you will encounter goats and hares.

BURANO, THE CAPITAL OF HANDMADE LACE After lunch, get ready to head to your last destination of the day: the Island of Burano. Loved by tourists, Burano is famous for its colourful houses and handcrafted lace. Why are there so many different colours? Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount

Basilica, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, serves as a reminder of its former splendour. On entering its richly decorated interior, visitors will lose themselves in the narrative of its imposing mosaics located both on its apse and on the church’s counter- façade. When visiting this cathedral, you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped back through the centuries, so enjoy this unique experience! While in Torcello, make sure to capture its essence with your camera. Look for Attila’s Throne and the Devil’s Bridge and celebrate your experiences in these ancient places. Given the time, you’re probably feeling a bit peckish. Apart from the Cathedral, the other main draw is the island’s celebrated Locanda Cipriani. This restaurant is renowned for its legendary cuisine but also for having hosted the author Ernest Hemingway in 1948 and numerous other celebrities. Its garden serves as the perfect setting to relax while waiting to embark on your next adventure. Standout dishes at this unique restaurant include its raw meat ‘carpaccio and its ‘alla Carlina’ sampietro fish dish. End your meal on a high note with one of the venue’s delicious homemade desserts (www.locandacipriani.com).

At the side: a view of the Island of Murano and, below, a group of visitors participating in the multi-sensory ‘Seguso Experience’ On this page: several close-up views of the colourful Island of Burano and its time-honoured lace-making tradition. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 15

WHERE NOW | FOCUS A PEACEFUL STAY Connected to Burano by a pedestrian bridge, the Island of Mazzorbo (pictured at the side) abounds in gardens and orchards. The island is home to the walled vineyard of ‘Venissa’, a starred Michelin restaurant and fabulous wine resort (www.venissa.it). Below, left, the Locanda Cipriani restaurant in Torcello, a romantic hideaway where diners can sample traditional Venetian cuisine upgraded with a contemporary twist. At the side, the old church of Santa Fosca in Torcello (11th century) renowned for its charming portico and picturesque Byzantine interior.

of liqueur consumed to keep them warm), devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily after a long day’s fishing. If you’re interested in learning about the art of lace making, don’t miss a visit to Dalla Lidia (it’s advisable to book ahead to make sure that you’ll be welcomed in style), and discover the ins and outs of this magnificent craft. Those wishing to bring an original souvenir home will be spoilt for choice. While in Burano, an absolute must-visit is the luxury home linen atelier owned by Martina Vidal. The heir to a family of four generations of lace makers, this atelier stocks some of the world’s most beautiful linen which can also be made-to-order (www.martinavidal.com). The inimitable beauty of the age-old craft of lace making can also be admired at the La Perla Gallery. Owned by the Buranese Bon family, it stocks a breathtaking array of lace clothing, lingerie and home decor items. 16 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

After visiting the Church of San Martino, renowned for its bell tower, which is as crooked as the leaning Tower of Pisa, head to Carmelina Palmisano to purchase one of its legendary Venetian sweet treats. Although there’s a huge variety, its most famous specialties include its ‘Bussola’ and ‘Esse’ biscuits which can be savoured at the end of a meal, accompanied by a glass of sweet wine. If, prior to departing, you’ve decided to end your visit of the islands here, we suggest that you dine at the Trattoria Da Romano. Named a Historic Venue of Italy, and renowned for its typical island cuisine, it is one of the Lagoon’s most charming artistic restaurants, boasting more than 100 years of history (www.daromano.it). TASTING EXPERIENCE AT VENISSA If, on the other hand, you want to end your day with a last stopover, head to the nearby

island of Mazzorbo. There’s no need to take a boat, you can simply access this island by crossing a bridge. Here you will find Venissa, another enchanted venue (www.venissa.it). This is a walled Vineyard that was recently restored by a Venetian entrepreneur. Venissa is renowned for the cultivation of the ‘Dorona’ grape, which is used to produce one of the Lagoon’s few wines. It was here that Gianluca Bisol, an enlightened entrepreneur, decided to create a winery, a tavern and a restaurant. Headed by chef Francesco Brutto, the winner of numerous awards, this unique venue is the proud recipient of a Michelin star. Its kitchen brigade was recently joined by Anna Cardin, the winner of the best sommelier of Italy award. You can either stay for dinner or enjoy an aperitivo on the ‘Fondamenta’ in front of the tavern whilst admiring a breathtaking Venetian sunset that you won’t forget in a hurry.

boggi.com

MADE IN

Venezia | San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo) | Tel. +39 041 296.03.21 | c/o Stazione Santa Lucia - Fondamenta Santa Lucia n. 20 | Tel. +39 041 524.64.45

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE With the arrival of summer, spending a little time in search of a new accessory, a jewel or a special gift, becomes even more pleasurable. Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque ‘calli’ of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

► MICHAEL KORS This year, one-piece swimsuits once again took centre stage on the spring/summer 2017 catwalks. This standout piece from the swimwear line of the Michael Kors Collection adds a touch of trendy, ultra-feminine chic to your beach look. www.michaelkors.it

FOR HER

◄ DODO This new line for the summer captures the joyous, carefree spirit of the season. Unconventional, ironic and original creations are inspired by the boho chic of Coachella, the annual Californiabased festival dedicated to art and music. www.dodo.com

18 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

◄ DOLCE&GABBANA A perfect example of Mediterranean style enhanced with a touch of modern classicism, this bucket bag in tumbled calf leather featuring a brightly-coloured floral and majolica print is a part of the brand’s pre-fall/winter 2017-2018 collection. www.dolcegabbana.com

▼ FRATELLI ROSSETTI Crafted in soft nabuck calfskin with a 10mm platform and leather sole, this vibrant yellow sandal has an ankle strap for added comfort. www.fratellirossetti.com

▼ GIORGIO ARMANI The lines of these sunglasses from the ‘Frames of Life’ Collection reflect ‘King Giorgio’s’ minimalist, natural style. Featuring thin plastic and metal temples, this model, characterized by the brand’s iconic bridge, features an exquisitely sophisticated and intellectual aesthetic. www.armani.com

▲ BOTTEGA VENETA Designed for comfort and ease, these slip-on dodger sneakers in dark navy feature the iconic ‘intrecciato’ motif on the upper, and a discreet signature butterfly on the heel. The contrast of the sheer nappa leather and durable rubber sole adds a dash of urban sophistication. www.bottegaveneta.com

FOR HIM

► OMEGA Amongst the special editions of the professional Seamaster, Railmaster and Speedmaster timepieces released by Omega to celebrate its 60th anniversary, this limited edition ‘Speedmaster 60th anniversary’ stays true to the original design with a replication of the original ‘Broad Arrow 1957’ tachymeter. It is powered by the 1861 calibre. www.omegawatches.com

▲ REHASH High-quality denim fabrics, sophisticated styles, and attention to detail are the hallmark features of this Italian brand. These blue, stretch cotton shorts with four pockets and a button and concealed zip closure lend an instant dose of cool to your off-duty attire. www.rehash.it – www.alducadaosta.com w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 19

SHOPPING R

.C E T R R A V E L E

The most beautiful It’s called “Rosa Moceniga” and it’s the ultra-feminine fragrance created by the historic brand The Merchant of Venice for connoisseurs of Haute Perfumerie. By Stefania Vida

“R

osa Moceniga” is an ambitious project that The Merchant of Venice decided to develop to pay tribute to a sophisticated flower. A flower whose history has ancient origins that can be traced back to Venice’s perfume-making tradition, sublime craftsmanship, and its age-old trade with the Far East. A rare, precious floral native of China, its name derives from the Mocenigo family, owners of a rose garden in Alvisopoli for the past 200 years. A fragrance that embodies the true essence of this mysterious rose, distinguished by its silvery pink petals whose colour changes according to the season when it blooms. An intense, fruity perfume, this lavishly feminine fragrance is the perfect expression of a rose in its natural habitat. An olfactory composition

20 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

specifically created by a master perfumer using natural raw materials, to recreate the sensuality of the Rosa Moceniga perfume. Finally, for lovers of signature essences, the Museum of Textiles and Costumes with the new itinerary dedicated to perfume is a mustvisit stopover (www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it). The magnificent Palazzo Mocenigo (Santa Croce,1992), a beautifully restored private villa, houses vestiges of a bygone era and other treasures. This is a unique experience dedicated to ‘olden-day’ Venice that is suitable for people of all ages, offering a comprehensive overview of the art of perfume-making, a fascinating mixture of alchemy, science and experimentation! >> www.themerchantofvenice.com

- Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin) - Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio 2233 Strada Nova, Santa Fosca - Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

The

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 62-63. TRANSPORTReferences to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING Shopping hours are generally from

10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

Anatema

Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Fanny Gloves Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin. Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run this family-owned business, established by his father-in-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà San Leonardo. Open daily

9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.fannygloves. it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D2

Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3

G. Pagan The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags and accessories are made from prized materials: crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-

TAXFREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com

UnionPay is a global payment network originated from China, responsible for the inter-bank payment via UnionPay system worldwide. By March 2017, over 450,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 35,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, telephone numbers, opening hours, works displayed and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year, restorations, loans or changes in management. Ask your concierge.

Shopping, food and culture by the Rialto Bridge Just steps from the Rialto Bridge, T Fondaco dei Tedeschi is the address for luxury shopping in Venice. Spread out over a surface area of 7,000 square metres, the Fondaco was first constructed in 1228 and has been a part of the city of Venice for as many as eight centuries. In addition to hosting the collections of the most coveted Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, cosmetics and fragrances, this lavish four-story department store will not only be used as a space for events, exhibitions and cultural initiatives but also as a venue designed to promote authentic Venetian craftsmanship. The ground floor atrium of this luxury department store is home to AMO, the new exclusive Venetian café/restaurant run by the Alajmo brothers offering a gastronomic experience embodying the real soul of Venice, with its symbols and mysteries (www.alajmo.it/amo). And, to top it all, this stunning historic building, overlooking the Grand Canal, is also a gem of architecture which, per se, is worth a visit! The view from the rooftop terrace is breathtaking. T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). www.tfondaco.com. Map F3

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Luxury Top Brands A new addition every day! The world of designer boutiques in Venice is making waves, and the majority of big-name brands are located around St. Mark’s Square, the great heart of Venice. By heading towards the Accademia from St. Mark’s Square, you will find yourself in Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the widest street in the city, lined with the window displays of the most coveted international brands. A system of ‘calli’ (the word for street in Venetian dialect) known as the ‘Mercerie’ leads from the Clock Tower in St. Mark’s Square to the Rialto, where Venice’s old ‘botteghe’ (workshops) have now been replaced by luxury boutiques. DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHITfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3 COIN EXCELSIORwww.coinexcelsior.com Cannaregio, 5787 (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 5203581. Map F3

BALENCIAGAwww.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5

ETROwww.etro.com San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5

BALLYwww.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4

FENDIwww.fendi.com San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4

BOGGI MILANOwww.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3

FRATELLI ROSSETTIwww.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5

BORSALINOwww.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4

FURLAwww.furla.com San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4

BOTTEGA VENETAwww.bottegaveneta.com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARIwww.bulgari.com San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRYit.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIERwww.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1495 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CHANEL www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHOPARDwww.chopard.com Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Map F4

GIORGIO ARMANIwww.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCIwww.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈSitaly.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSSwww.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 LORO PIANAwww.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5 LOUIS VUITTONwww.louisvuitton.com San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

CHURCH’Swww.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 DAMIANI www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 DOLCE&GABBANAwww.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 223/226 (corner of Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5209991. Map F4

This FURLA timepiece, featuring a mustard-coloured calfskin strap, is part of the elegant ‘Giada’ collection. 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAwww.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4

A perfect blend of high-quality materials and attention to detail, this 100% cotton men’s ‘Lightime Holdall’ weekender bag epitomizes the HUGO BOSS aesthetics.

Elegantly subversive, the new ‘Tiffany City HardWear’ collection by TIFFANY & CO. embodies the energy of New York. MAX MARAit.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Mercerie). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

SWAROVSKIwww.swarovski.com San Marco, 256 (Mercerie dell’Orologio). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

TOD’Swww.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

SWATCHwww.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

VERSACEwww.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

TIFFANY & CO.www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

MICHAEL KORSwww.michaelkors.comwww.michaelkors.it San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 2960312. Map F5

Sizing

MISSONI www. missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5 MIU MIUwww.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5 MONCLERwww.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 MONTBLANCwww.montblanc.com San Marco, 2380 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413747. Map F5 PRADAwww. prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 RENÉ CAOVILLA www.renecaovilla.com San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Map F4

ROBERTO CAVALLI www.robertocavalli.com San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794 www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENTwww.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER www.salvadori-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO www.ferragamo.com. San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5

IT 36 38 40 42 44 46 48

Women clothes EUR US 32 1 34 2 36 4 38 6 40 8 42 10 44 12

UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16

IT 36 37 38 39 40 41

Women shoes EUR US 36 6 37 6.5 38 7.5 39 8.5 40 9 41 9.5

UK 3 4 5 6 7 8

IT 50 52 54 56 58 60

Men clothes EUR US 46 36 48 38 50 40 52 42 54 44 56 46

UK 36 38 40 42 44 46

IT 40 41 42 43 44 45 46

Men shoes EUR US 40 7.5 41 8 42 8.5 43 9 44 10.5 45 11.5 46 12

UK 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Pastel colours, defined by 60s-inspired prints and a playful summer mood, triumphed on this season’s MIU MIU’s catwalks. w w w.wh e re t r ave l e r. com 23

SHOPPING

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.agenziadoganemonopoli.gov.it/ portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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7.30pm. San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).

Map F5

Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute couture creations” because they are often enhanced by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www. giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century,

Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hatcupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo. com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

La Parigina An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also stocks a wide selection of international brands including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers. La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto

The Rialto Market

Rialto Market A trip to Venice is not complete without a visit to the Rialto Market, possibly one of the city’s most authentic and traditional experiences. This is one of Venice’s most ancient markets, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians, shopkeepers and tourists eager to shop. It is located near the Rialto Bridge, on the San Polo side, extending across the Canal Grande, between Campo San Giacomo and Campo della Pescaria. Campo San Giacomo is a beautiful square surrounded by a portico called Sottoportego del Bancogiro, an ancient bank where merchants would gather to negotiate. If you’d like to try the famous 'cicchetti', accompanied by a glass of wine or a spritz, a number of 'bacari', Venice’s traditional ‘osterie’, can also be found in the area. Several of these bars face

onto the opposite side of the building, on a magnificent plaza crowded with tables, and from here, if you walk along the river, you’ll reach a large food market, and finally, the Pescaria, the famous Fish Market. From early morning, on any day of the week (except Sunday) this vibrant place is frequented by Venetian locals, who regularly shop here, browsing its colourful stalls that are located under a loggia near the Grand Canal. Inscriptions about fish-related regulatory measures, proclaimed by the Republic of Venice, can still be found on the walls! >> Fish Market: Open Tues-Sat 7.30amnoon. Food Market: Mon-Sat 7.30am1.30pm. San Polo 330-338 (Campo della Pescaria). Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato) or traghetto from Campo Santa Sofia (€2).

SHOPPING ADVERTORIAL

line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily 9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido stop). Off Map

Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4• • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.

Michele De Fina Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

René Caovilla In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker. PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla. com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

SV Lab As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV Lab is a creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes to describe as “his parallel world”. Not just a shop selling shoes and accessories - a place where you can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but also an open space where it is not unusual to find artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San Marco, 2663 (Campo San Maurizio). T: 041 5220595. Vaporetto line 1 (Giglio stop). Map E5

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4

GEMS OF VENICE In the heart of Venice near the Rialto Bridge, this is a unique boutique and workshop where precious stones are cut and transformed into genuine, wearable works of art. For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced several of the world's most precious stones including jade, diamonds and gems… taking us back to the fascinating voyages of Venetian merchant Marco Polo.

Boggi Milano An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for those who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers garments aimed at a contemporary, modern and cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta Santa Lucia, 20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www. boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

DEPARTMENT STORES Coin Excelsior Located in Cannaregio, just a few steps from the Rialto Bridge, this luxury department store store extends over four floors surrounding the original indoor courtyard where designer Felice Limosani’s lighting installation is showcased. The store provides a selection of both Italian and International fashion brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor), cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor). Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com. Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

T Fondaco dei Tedeschi The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food

www.gemsofvenice.it San Polo, 1044 (Ruga Rialto-Rughetta Ravano) T: 041 5225148

and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice, Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the region, it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map

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SHOPPING

Artistic glass in Murano

its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm. www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology, enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. www.cartier.it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Chopard Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm. www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Damiani Glassmaking had already become an integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D. its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws: the furnaces used to create the molten glass were a constant fire hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As a consequence, all the glass workshops were moved to Murano where they are still located today. It was here that eyeglasses were invented in the 13th century and here that, in 1369, mirrors began to be produced. It was also here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Glass was a rare commodity throughout the Renaissance: it was only in 1827 that production on an industrial level began. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for artistic purposes, achieving its height of splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany

Palmanova Outlet Village Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway 26 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

sought out the glassblowers of Murano to produce their famous works. As a result of this experience, during the mid-20th century, real masters of the art began to emerge in Murano including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors’ items which are often displayed at museums. Murano has numerous glass factories, several of which boast an age-old history (i.e. Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini). Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and does not come cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take your custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. Finally, the island’s glass factories are equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world… ask your concierge!

Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map

JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Boncompagni Venezia This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering

A reference point in the world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Dodo The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Gems of Venice For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has sourced the most precious stones, which are then processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

IWC Schaffhausen Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all the allure of highend watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com. Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Jaeger-LeCoultre A meeting place for collectors and haute horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers will have the pleasure of discovering the latest creations and exquisite timepieces designed by this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

SHOPPING

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

Unique in Venice

PHOTO © DE LUNA_WHEREITALIA

Eredi Jovon

Eredi Jovon's cameo

La Bottega dei Mascareri

Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny jewel-like boutiques and vintage shops, this 'unique' city offers an array of 'unique' locations where you can indulge in an authentic shopping experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics and accessories that you'll be hard put to find elsewhere. While strolling through its ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with its characteristic vibrancy… La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www. mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà stop). Map E3 Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos,

set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP Eredi Jovon daily crafts fully handmade cameos, created upon request based on a picture. All creations can be ordered online and shipped all around the world, thanks to an efficient e-commerce service. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). Map F4 Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre

Piedàterre

treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato). Map E3 Tessitura Bevilacqua Artisanal weavers specializing in the production of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and curtains. A unique place! Since 1875, the company has practiced the art of weaving on original looms that once belonged to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map E5

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SHOPPING Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5

highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Salvadori

Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking. Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence of these precious creations thanks to its extensive collection of luxurious timepieces for men and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041 5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadorivenezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Pomellato

Tag Heuer

Omega

Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates

Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker to master luxury sports chronographs with an

unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant quest for innovation, excellence, performance and prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlycoloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

PASSION SHOPPING Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago, never repeating a decoration in order to ensure that each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on the history of Venetian masks and traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

The Merchant of Venice

The perfect shopping for him Style is not a question of fashion, style is a way of being, it is the ability to know how to choose what suits you best. The beauty of menswear is the continuous evolution of classical themes and ADVERTORIAL materials that are renewed and revamped to guarantee maximum functionalism and comfort. The ‘Classics Reloaded’ line by Boggi Milano, a brand that has dressed men for generations, is synonymous with innovation and uniqueness; it’s an almost vintage look re-engineered in a contemporary key. The maximum expression of this coupling is the brand’s jacket in a boucléeffect fabric with a micro-geometric print, giving it a sought-after, classical and modern allure. When paired with a linen or cotton shirt with a Korean collar, a pair of 5-pocket white jeans, a Denim slip-on and a navy belt, it makes for an ideal spring/summer look. www.boggi.com San Marco 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia 20). T: 041 5246445. Open daily 8am-9pm

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The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4

Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini. com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops).

PASSION SHOPPING

ADVERTORIAL

OTTICA MANTOVANI Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Map F4 www.xxxxxx.org Viale xxxxx, 6 www.otticamantovani.it T:San 02 xxxxx Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). More www.wheremilan.com T: 041info: 5223427.

ANTICHI SPLENDORI Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian landscapes. Map F4 Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio). T: 041 5239265.

ROMA 1947 ‘Roma 1947’, the jewelry brand inspired by ‘La Dolce Vita’ and Italian style, recently launched its first standalone store just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Crafted in silver and bronze, and reinterpreted in a contemporary key, the brand’s rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings reference the voluptuous shapes of Roman domes and the colours of the Eternal City’s stunning sunset views. Map F4 roma1947.it San Marco, 231.

OFFICINA BERNARDI The Bernardi brothers, Francesco and Carlo, recently opened their first monobrand store in the city. Authentic Italian style, exquisite designs and meticulous craftsmanship characterize the precious gold and silver collections of this brand who have made Italian creativity their signature feature. Map F5

www.officinabernardi.com Piazza San Marco, 110. T: 041 5287906 More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

SHOPPING

Discovering Venice’s art galleries

Galleria Contini.

PHOTO © COURTESY THE ARTIST AND VICTORIA MIRO, LONDON © CHRIS OFILI

Is Venice really a place to buy objet d’art? Definitely! There are so many large and small 20th century and contemporary art galleries in the city that it’s almost impossible to list them all. Where® has selected a pick, renowned for their quality, tradition, or originality. By Romena Brugnerotto Galleria Contini is a must-visit address for modern and contemporary art. Boasting more than 40 years in the business (it’s the oldest gallery in Venice), it exhibits works by important Italian and international artists including Mitoraj, Botero and Giuseppe Veneziano (San Marco 2288, www.continiarte.com). Other galleries, such as Luce Arte Moderna, are renowned for their display of works associated with the city (San Marco 1922, www.gallerialuce.com). The smallest gallery in the city is Giorgio Mastinu Fine Art. Its rich catalogue of works is the result of the multiple passions of its owners and is well worth a visit (San Marco 3126, www.giorgiomastinufineart.it).

Victoria Miro Gallery. Chris Ofili, Poolside Magic 8.

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Newcomers? Coinciding with the launch of the Biennale, Venice’s gallery scene has been further enriched by the opening of a new branch of Galerie Alberta Pane. The new, 300-square-meter space, a former carpentry shop turned art gallery, will create an artistic link between Paris and Venice. In keeping with the space’s history as a workshop, the gallery will allow artists to give life to ambitious projects such as large scale installations and will offer artist workshops and talks on contemporary art as part of its programs (Dorsoduro 2403/h, www.galeriealbertapane.com).

Galerie Alberta Pane. Christian Fogarolli, Project of Phantom Model of Prof. Chr. Aeby.

SHOPPING

Among the new openings, the Victoria Miro Gallery has arrived directly from London to take up residence in the former space of Venice’s historic “Il Capricorno” gallery. The London dealer has brought several of the important artists represented by her to the heart of the city (San Marco 1994, www.victoria-miro.com). Located in the so-called Art Mile, in the sestiere of Dorsoduro which is teeming with museums and galleries, another must-visit venue is Galleria L’Occhio which, until 7 June, will host the works of Tobia Ravà, a Venetian artist renowned for researching the mystic currents of Judaism (San Marco 1994, www.gallerialocchio.net). Must-visit addresses for lovers of photography? The Ikona Photo Gallery housed in the picturesque spaces of the Ghetto Novo. Since 1979, thanks to its association with the Ikona International School of Photography, it has brought the best-known names in international photography to Venice (www.ikonavenezia.com). The ghetto is also home to Melori & Rosenberg, a historic gallery renowned for exhibiting the works of hyperrealist painter Luigi Rocca (Cannaregio 2919, www.melori-rosenberg.com). Fans of photography should also plan a visit to

the Bugno Art Gallery that exhibits the works of well-known Italian photographers including Campigotto, Morucchio and Galimberti (San Marco 1996/d, www.bugnoartgallery.com). It goes without saying that Venice is one of the best places to purchase glass objects. Due to its in-depth knowledge of artistic glass, Berengo Studio 1989 has invited several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists to experiment with this material and create unique pieces (Fondamenta dei Vetrai 109/a, www.berengostudio1989.com). Other go-to spaces in the city include Caterina Tognon who represents the most important artists of Studio Glass (San Marco 2158, www.caterinatognon.com), and the Marina Barovier Gallery which exhibits the most famous works of 20th-century and contemporary artists (San Marco 2158, www.barovier.it).

Galleria L'Occhio. Tobia Ravà, 948 vortice di pace.

Collectors of wearable art should head to OhMyBlue. This unique venue sells contemporary artistic jewelry, bags, accessories, everyday items, glass items, ceramics and porcelain, all carefully selected from the best international offerings available on the market (San Polo 2865, www.ohmyblue.com).

Giorgio Mastinu

OhMyBlue. Liisa Hashimoto, Leaf Garden ring.

Berengo Studio 1989. Aldo Mondino, Jongleur.

Luce Arte Moderna. Riccardo Licata, Untitled.

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STROLLING THROUGH BURANO

BY STEFANO TRAINE

In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace.

With a population of only three thousand inhabitants, the island’s row of houses, whose facades boast all the colours of the rainbow, are truly spectacular and make it one of the most picturesque places on earth! However, the origin of this tradition of painting the houses in bright colours was not only for aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its fishermen, often confused by frequent banks of fog, devised a chromatic code that would help them identify their own landing piers more easily. Each colour corresponded to a family, to their house and to their address. BURANO LACE. The island is also the capital of handmade lace, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from sea. The work is extremely exacting, with each woman specializing in a single stitch. Since there are seven stitches in total, each piece is passed from woman to woman to finish. Groups of women work diligently for days to produce items, whether large or small, of matchless beauty: trims for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves, umbrellas and masks, all made from this delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking attention to detail that has lasted for centuries. While on the island, make sure to visit the Museum of Lace-Making to understand 32 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

why something so exquisite should not become extinct (Piazza Galuppi, 187). GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring or S-shaped) are famous on the island and you will be offered them wherever you go. However, this is not the only specialty that you’ll find. The island has a long-standing gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to fresh fish.

HOW TO REACH BURANO Vaporetto line number 12 runs from the Venice-Fondamente Nove stop to Burano (1 hour). If you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians recommend taking line 14 from San Zaccaria (Pietà stop). Take a look at the venue where the Film Festival is held, and admire the MOSE flood barrier, the huge hydraulic engineering project designed to protect the lagoon.

ADVERTORIAL

LA PERLA GALLERY The Bon family in Burano offers an assortment of only the finest handmade items including antique lace, high quality made-to-order tablecloths, furnishing accessories, household linens, refined silk for lingerie and clothing, christening gowns and childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing (up to age 10), exclusive scarves in silk and cashmere and Venetian masks.

Via Galuppi, 287-376. T: 041 730009

TRATTORIA DA ROMANO Run by the Barbaro family for four generations, this picturesque eatery has retained all of its timeless appeal. Recognized for more than fifty years as one of the few prestigious art restaurants in Venice, Romano manages the trattoria with the help of his wife, Siora Gigia. Standouts include ancient Burano specialties, and the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature mixed grill cooked over wood.

www.daromano.it Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.

MARTINA VIDAL The Vidal family has been making Burano lace for over four generations. Today, Martina Vidal is a luxury home linen atelier where passion, tradition, quality, and craftsmanship are combined to create unique, inimitable items made from only the finest quality fabrics.

www.martinavidal.com Via San Mauro, 309. T: 041 735523. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 33

DINING

An island of taste We’re not referring to Stevenson’s Treasure Island or Peter Pan’s Neverland but the Island of Roses, an oasis of taste, and home to starred restaurant Dopolavoro. By Stefania Vida

he name ‘Dopolavoro’, meaning‘after work’ in Italian, says it all. After a day exploring Venice’s labyrinthine streets and treasures, it’s time to relax and indulge in some gourmet fare on an exclusive island only 16 hectares in length. Dopolavoro is an oasis of taste located on the magnificent Island of Roses, the ‘youngest’ island in the Venetian lagoon (founded in 1870), where Chef Giancarlo Perbellini skillfully combines tradition with creativity and originality, making him the star of the kitchen. Thanks to its position, midway between the lagoon and the sea, and to the marine currents that generate a particularly mild and cool microclimate, the island boasts a wealth of vegetation unmatched elsewhere in Venice. 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

This includes an olive grove from whose hundreds of trees the island’s olive oil is produced. The first thing that strikes guests arriving at this enchanted venue is the building’s original, picturesque façade, which dates back to 1936. Today it is the kingdom of one of Italy’s most acclaimed chefs, ‘an artisan cook’ as he likes to describe himself, who combines a mastery of tradition with virtuosity and the expertise to upgrade Italy’s famous cuisine. Only 6 months after its official opening, the Dopolavoro restaurant was awarded a Michelin star by Italy’s Michelin Guide. Guest amenities include a free shuttle launch that connects the island to the private docking station in St. Mark’s Square (in front of the Giardinetti Reali). Open seasonally from 7 April to October 2017. Closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

>> Ristorante Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, San Marco Lagoon www.jwvenice.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE

liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www. anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Mercà

A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3

Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess

Antiche Carampane

Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5

Antico Pignolo The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a well-

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

A la Vecia Cavana Set within the picturesque environment of an old restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www. marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS. Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map F3

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetian-style

L’Alcova's magical atmosphere Diners can enjoy traditional Venetian cuisine at the L’Alcova Restaurant with its splendid view overlooking the Grand Canal. The menu is accompanied by an extensive wine list featuring vintages from various Italian regions. The young and talented chef Damiano Bassano combines traditional Italian flavours with unique touches. Its exquisite interiors look onto Venice’s scenic waterfront and the Rialto Market. This magical location has inspired the chef who sources fresh ingredients from land and sea, offering diners dishes that are infused with his talented creativity. The ‘L’Incontro’ Bar is an ideal place to sample aperitivi and pre-and post-prandial drinks. Don’t miss the ‘Rooftop terrace’, a perfect location for cocktails and signature drinks at aperitivo time. This exclusive bar offers a variety of drinks, including traditional Spritzes, Bellinis and fruit cocktails (sourced from the nearby Rialto Market), an innovative idea based on the chef’s philosophy of natural, healthy cuisine. L’Alcova Restaurant c/o Ca’ Sagredo. Cannaregio 4198/99 (Campo Santa Sofia). T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants La Cupola

Acquerello c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. www.kempinski.com The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking as its food: situated next to the XII-century church of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large terrace, is located next to one of the island’s private landing stages. Open for dinner: 6.30 pm10.30 pm. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine, offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes, created using only the freshest ingredients based on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known international gastronomic association “Chaine des Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6

Aman Venice Restaurant c/o Hotel Aman Venice. Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. www.aman.com The exclusive restaurant offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by starred Milanese chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’. PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. www.baglionihotels.com Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a wine list offering a wide selection of national and international labels. Vaporetto line 1 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5

Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. www.sinahotels.com Fronting the Grand Canal, this is the ideal place for a romantic dinner, boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft, evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

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Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. www.clubdeldoge.com The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. From April to October (weather permitting), guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace. Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily (formal) 7pm- 10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice. By Stefania Vida

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. www.bauervenezia.com For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. www.londrapalace.com The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. www.palazzovenart.com Headed by twice-Michelin starred chef Enrico Bartolini and located in a historic palazzo on the Grand Canal it offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine. Bartolini focuses on his experience and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients and re-imagined with an innovative twist. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

DINING

Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists, actors and writers, it looks out directly over the Grand Canal. Both lively and intimate, its terrace combines the pleasures of the palate with an evocative view over the lagoon. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the on the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables, expressed with maximum taste and harmony. Map F5 Il Giardino Segreto c/o Boscolo Venezia. Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. www.venezia.boscolohotels.com Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and accompanied by a wide selection of wines and champagnes. In the springtime and summer the blooming garden offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your very romantic dinner. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2 (Orto stop). Map E1

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. www.casagredohotel.com Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings of an ancient Venetian vessel. In summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque, internal Venetian courtyard. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5

La Cupola c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal Santa Croce, 578. T: 041 2752200. www.carltongrandcanal.com A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere. The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian, Italian and international cuisine with genuine ingredients but with an innovative and original touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3 La Cusina c/o The Westin Europa & Regina San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001. www.lacusina.it For a regenerating lunch break between visiting one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of the city’s historic architecture, while savouring the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands of the lagoon. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. www.starhotels.com Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, it is set against the backdrop of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian courtyard. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes Le Maschere one of the most unique and original restaurants in Venice. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Terrazza Danieli

Do Leoni

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F6 Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. www.terrazzadanieli.com A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Vaporetto line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Quadri

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! By Stefania Vida Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco T: 041 8521300 www.jwvenice.com Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini is behind this new restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the Venetian lagoon. After a day of business meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious gourmet recipes with an individual flavour and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great chef. Off Map Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509 T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,

38 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Met Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 T: 041 5240034 www.hotelmetropole.com Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted at promoting the Italian region. Its menu features recipes based on traditional Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4

Il Ridotto

DINING

Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani Giudecca, 10 T: 041 240801 www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Veniceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top taste sensation at this enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202 T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121 T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;palazziâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in the city. Its menu features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4

Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281 www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. Off Map

Osteria da Fiore

Met

Dopolavoro

Oro

Venissa

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DINING

Top coffee and pastry shops Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041 5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).

Caffè Florian

Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive 19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29 December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it was mainly frequented by an international clientele.

stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Conca d’Oro Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this Venetian institution has been turning out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www. concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

Dal Mas Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas. com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square, with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café. People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner, Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,

transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

Da Mario alla Fava Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing atmosphere far removed from the crowds of tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the true Venetian style of cooking which he does with panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041 5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Vallaresso stop). Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant, offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges. cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca). T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop). Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the high quality of its products, its atmosphere and eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable ‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041 5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San Silvestro stop).

Gran Canal Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity to combine the pleasures of the palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a

DINING

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida

perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Il Nuovo Galeon

Locanda Cipriani

Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

La Piscina Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes paired with wines selected from amongst the best Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. €€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6

La Porta d’Acqua

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin. Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.

Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant is housed in a 15th century building and decorated with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4

Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect

For those who want to be close to Venice, yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it has been renovated with great charm, exuding an understated elegance with beautiful country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then take the 9 line). Off Map

Taverna al Remer Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Although the menu features simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).

Map F3

Wildner Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

SUSHI MIRAI In the attractive setting of this top Japanese restaurant, along the Grand Canal since 2013, a creative sushi experience is combined with a rich variety of cocktails and a prestigious selection of teas. www.miraivenice.com

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SWEET TREATS… BUT NOT TOO MANY ONI Venetian biscuits come in all shapes and sizes and are made with a variety of different flours. The most common Arsenale Storico Navale di Venezia include dry baicoli, zaeti,Museo cookies made from cornflour, with raisins and lemon R PE GA peel, bussolai (prepared by the wives of IUSEP VIA G fishermen to sustain their husbands while at sea), pinsa, a simple biscuit made from stale bread, raisins, cocoa powder and RI VA DE I S candied fruit, and fugassa venessiana, ET TE M leavened dough sprinkled with grains of AR TI RI sugar: Venice’s traditional sweet treats have the irresistible aroma of simple, homemade biscuits prepared with only the most basic ingredients. A perfect end to a delicious meal, they can also be enjoyed as a midmorning snack. They can be accompanied by either a strong cup of coffee, or a rich, mouth watering zabaione.

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S. Marco (Vallaresso) vessels. This dish consists of fried fresh The dishes of Venetian gastronomic Ca' Giustinian sardine fillets, marinated in gently cooked tradition tell the story of sea voyages and white onions, usually with vinegar, raisins Palazzo far-off lands, when La Serenissima was a Pisani and pine nuts. Rice is a mainstay on Venetian teeming crossroads of cultures, spices and nta MariaGritti el Giglio Salute menus, and arrived on the scene thanks to Palazzoflavours. A time when, in addition to the y Genovese the Byzantine merchants. While risi e bisi, inevitable ‘ombra dePunta vin’ (a glass of wine), della Dogana a unique combination of soup and thick Venetian ‘osterie’ also served dishes based on Basilica di San Gregorio Santa Maria risotto made of fresh peas, is one of the what the and the small patches of its dellasea, Salute most famous and ancient regional specialties cultivated land, were able to offer. Whether of Venice, risoto de gò, prepared with goby, you happen to find yourself in a ‘bacaro’, Chiesa di Sanlagoon Giorgio fish, Maggiore a type of is the most typical. On an osteria or an elegant restaurant, Venice’s S. Giorgio most notable dish is baccalà mantecato, salt the other hand, pasta e fazioi, pasta and cod cooked in milk and served with polenta. beans, is a hot favourite with locals. According to legend, a Venetian merchant, nto ISOLA DI FISH OR MEAT? who had been shipwrecked on the Lofoten SAN G I O NECTAR R G I O OF BACCHUS Typical local standouts include polenta con Islands, off the coast of Norway, discovered THE le schie, delicious fried baby shrimp usuallyM A GWhile stockfish, which he brought with him when G I O the R E Veneto is one of Italy’s most sautéed with garlic and served over polenta he returned to the Lagoon. famous wine regions, few people know (see photo, Trattoria Do Forni), or moeche, a Another must-try are sarde in saor. Possibly that Venice also boasts its own winemaking the most ancient of all Venetian recipes, Zitelle tradition. For centuries, a Le ZitelleVenetian delicacy. 'Moeche' are young crabs E Teatro that are caught shortly after they haveVerde shed this dish L L originated vineyard located on the Island of TE I Z TA EN their baby shells and have yet to grow their on fishing Mazzorbo has defied the lagoon’s AM D N FO adult ones. They are are usually served after high tides to produce the Dorona, E a flour batter and boiling oil. being fried in OC a rare indigenous varietal known R C A NT e Other delicacies include seppioline alla ME at the time of the Doges as DA N FO veneziana cuttlefish cooked with their own veneziana, the ‘golden’ grape due to its black ink and served on a bed of polenta dentore deep golden-green colour. and bisato su l’aria, pieces of stone-cooked The resulting wine is called Santa Croce eel. On the other hand, an absolute ‘must’ Venissa. An interesting for carnivores is fegato di vitello alla fact: the Murano-made veneziana (Venetian-style calf liver) cooked bottles of handcrafted glass with oil and white onions. According to display rich decorations of Hundertwasser' Garden legend, the Romans invented the original hand-beaten gold foil thus recipe. Those who enjoy richer, more intense honoring two traditional flavours should try castradina veneziana, Venetian crafts. CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

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a 17th century mutton and cabbage stew that serves as a reminder of the time when Arsenaleduring di Venezia Venice was under quarantine the CAMPO plague and was supplied with this type of BANDIERA San Martino E MORO meat by the Dalmatae.

SALIZ ADA SAN ANTO NIN

FONDAMENTA

TI A

S ES

O VE

FO N

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

EN U

dell eF

TIN AR M

CA LL E

C AS

M AG NO

CA LL E

PIETA’

DEL LA

CAL LE

CA PP

CA LLE

CALLE DEL FO

CAL LE

EL LO CA PP RA MO

CALLE DEI GRECI

C. DE LL AC OR ON A

CALLE DE LE RASSE

C. CO RONA LEON ARDO

LA SACR ESTIA

CALLE RIMP ETTO

CALLE DEL ALBANESI

DEL TE DEU M

ZZ O E MU RA CA LL

CALL E CAVA LLI

E VE NIE CA LL

C. DE LA MADONETA

O IS AD PA R

L LE

CA LL E MA SS A C. DE LE MO SC HE TE

SA NA CA LL

DO NA

PIOVAN

A N M

VONI

CA LL E

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CA LL E

DEL FONDAMENTA

CENS

DEGLI

N IO ST BA

A AS

OT E RID

ARES

CALL

LL E VA RIVA

VO HIA

R I VA

GIO DE L’O CALLE

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

MO DEG

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

Palazzo Ducale

Museo Correr

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

CORTE DELLE GATE

ARIN L’OSM

C EL

DE IF OR NI

E D E

C A LL

E LD OS DE LL E CA

NA VE

UT AR

CA LL E PISC INA SAN ZULI Z AN CALL E BA B LB I

CA LL ED EL EB AL OT E

E BR ES

O RN FO L DE E

LL CA

E R IL AP II IA ER

DE L

di Malta

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

azzo el Pal Rio D

TA DE AMEN FOND

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE SACCA

CALLE C CA LLE LION

D EL

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

N CALLE DEL MAGAZE

C. PI AN TO N

I PRETI

L DE

LA E DE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

C AL

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE BOSELLO

CA LL

CA NII CA ON NO CA CAN

I LE DE L LLE AL CA C

E LL CA

E LA LE LL AL CA C

RZII RZ A ZO DA AD A ZA LIZ SALI SA

NU OV

R AM

I UD SC GLI DE LLE CA

CALLE DEL FIGHER

MA RC

CE SC

GATE

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SA N RG A

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

IO ED EM LR DE

FR AN

ASI DR

NUOVA

E LL CA

Basilica di San Marco

MA SAN

ZZA

CORTE

TA CA SE

O SA SE C O GR AD N D O O

CORTE NOVA

O EZ EM ED LL CA

AM EN

LE CAL

CORTE

E SA N

SALIZADA SANTA GIUS TINA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

O ER EV NS SA

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

FFA GIU GA RU

IA ER EL SS CA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

NDE LE BA

CA LL

DE LE ADA SALIZ

E DE CALL

CAL LE

nzo Rio San Lorenzo

A SC TA

CAMPO CA LLE SANTA DEL CA FET IER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

ENZO FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SA N G FO IOVNDA AN ME NI NTA LA TE RA NO

TA EN AM ND FO

C. DE I ST AGNE RI

IA DE LE TOL E

FO ND

CALLE ERIZZO

CA VE RRLL E DE O CC L HI O

SALIZADA

EI AS MB BO E LL

LO VO

D EI

L IO

CA LL E

LL E

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

TO SA US M

I IER HIE EC SP EI ED LL CA

CALLE DEI FUSERI

BAR BAR

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

A mixture of history and legend, Venetian cuisine uses simple San Francesco della Vigna ingredients sourced from land and sea that are transformed San Lorenzo into delectable dishes telling the story of the Serenissima’s glorious past. Enjoy your meal! San Giovanni

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

FRUTARIOLI

CALL

I MA

San

EDIC

Rio

E TR

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

E LA

San Moisè

I BR AB IF DE

PIA

CALL

RZ XX II MA

E LL CA

O A IN PRIM NTAR RAMO E CO CORT

E’

DE LE ERB E

CORTE

OIS

CAMPO O SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

E DE L FO RN

BY STEFANO TRAINE

Santa Maria del Pianto

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

DEL FORNO

O LL PE AP AC NC BIA

Bacino Orseolo

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

IN CALLE DEL PESTR

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

DEL

LLE

CALL

CA LLE

A LA RG

E LL CA

CORTE TORRETTA

L VA CA

RTOR L SA C. DE

MICHIEL

CIN

LICINI

NI LO EI BA C.D

E LL CA

CORTE

PIS

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

eatro la Fenice

O HERI

INA

LIN

INEL

PISC

IES LA CH

A G. GA LL IN

Trattoria Do Forni Trattoria da Remigio San Giuliano ● ● San Giovanni Novo ● San Giorgio dei Greci Antico Pignolo

LE COLONNE

TE RIO O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

DRIO

RI EZZE

LI O

IA AR AD SP

RÀ

SA N

GIO LO RO L’’O ELL DEL

IO UTAR

ZA DA

IA RIA RZA MAR

D. PA LL E

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

CA LL ED EM EZ O

DE LC AP ITE LL O CORTE

E LA RG

or E

A TR

M BO

ad LL

CALL

CALLE

nta Maria el Giglio

L FR

PI O

lv DE

DE L

CAMPO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

San Fantin

E DE

N EN

LUCA C.D TRAMONTIN TE TEL LL EL LO O TA M GIA AR C.D PIE ZA EL C. RA RIA EB DE SA AL IP IG OT N NO ZU E LI LIA N

O DIV RE

CALL

ARTI

Sa C.

C AL

C. DE LE COLONNE

INI

GOLD LLE GOLDONI CALLE CA

E ND CA LO LLE CA

MARCO

TIE

EL LI

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

SABION

G C.

E CA ST

CAL LE

C. LAR GA

C. DE L CALIC DE LA FAVA E MAR ZARI A SA N SA CORTE LVAD OR RUBBI

E LL CA

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

E GI AZ

SA LI

C. DE L GA LIAZZ O

CORTE DEL

La Terrazza ●

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

CA LL

CAMPO

I BR AB IF DE

CA LL

MA RZ AR IA

E LL CA

CA LU

N SA

CA LL

SAN LIO

PIA CO PIS

E LL CA

C .M

SAN BORTOLOMIO

R io

E LL CA

EG O

San Salvador

O TR EA LT DE

L IZ

MA ZZ IN I CORTE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

BO M BE

TEATRO

N BO AR LC DE

E LL CA

RIO

DR IO CA LL E LE SC UO

Casa di Marco Polo

AZEN AG A LM DEL E DE ALL CA C

OLA

RE ME

RÀ

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO PIO

IAN

RIO

LLE

DE L OO

E LL CA

LA RG A

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

IN RN TE N PA SA

ER RN CO

I LL VA CA

I AN IM GR

TE AT RO

CA LL GA BR E IE LI

CC E CO

E LL CA E LL CA

DE L

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

CA LL

ZI E LL CA

LL E

SA LIZ ZA DA

SAN SALVADOR

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

SA NT ’A NT ON IO

VA G IO N SA

CC VE GA

LI Z

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

neto San Luca

S.G. GRIS OSTOMO

I NN

RC ED E

L’ A

A IG

CA LL E

S.Silvestro

C. DE L FO NT

Rialto

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

BA N DI

BO L

AT T

CA LLE DE L’A NZO LO

I DE

H IA

Ponte di Rialto

San Silvestro

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Fontego dei Tedeschi

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

alazzo Grimani

CORTE NOVA

C AL LE

CA MP O

L IE N PA AM C L

San Giacomo di Rialto A

A O

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

G R PA

N VA RA EL

NZ N CA AD A SA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

HE RIC BB FA LE DE

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

NZ D

O EG RT PO TO SO

SA LIZ

DO E TA

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

PESCARIA

H UG

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO DELLA

EL SOL

DEL PESTRIN

VA RIS CO

TI ET OR EM LL CA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

MPIELLO

Aponal

CA LL E

C O RT E B ATA G I A

IN SEARCH OF AUTHENTIC FLAVOURS

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

C DE AM L PIE SA L NS LO ON I

C.S AN T’

À S

S A LI

SA NT A

SO FIA

CA ’D

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

Cassiano

VALMARANA

RI O TE RR

A D ZAD

VE E

RA ’O

zionale erna Ca’ D’Oro

ADVERTORIAL

TRATTORIA DA REMIGIO Owned by Fabio Bianchi, Da Remigio is located in sestiere Castello, just behind St. Mark’s square. This historical venue is a favourite with Venetian foodies, but is also mentioned in international guides. It offers diners a classical menu of seasonal seafood dishes accompanied by a well-stocked wine list. The venue’s friendly, attentive service makes for an even more enjoyable dining experience.

Castello, 3416 (Salizada dei Greci). T: 041 52300089

LA TERRAZZA Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Restaurant La Terrazza is set against an evocative backdrop with a view over the picturesque Bacino Orseolo gondola station (‘stazio’). Its culinary offer includes traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. In the evening, La Terrazza offers its guests the unforgettable atmosphere of a traditional restaurant in Venice for a candle-lit dinner, in the romantic heart of the city. www.laterrazzavenezia.com c/o Hotel Bonvecchiati. San Marco 4488 (Calle Goldoni). T: 041 5285017

TRATTORIA DO FORNI Its owner Eligio Paties considers cooking “a culture, rather than a vocation”. He has managed to make his restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished by its wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history of Venice. www.doforni.it San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148.

ANTICO PIGNOLO The “Antico Pignolo” Restaurant opened in 1930. Its site, however, actually dates back to 1200 when it was used as a blacksmith’s forge which looked after the Doge’s horses. Boasting an elegant ambience and impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties with particular attention to typical Venetian and international cuisine. Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish specialties and www.xxxxxx.org a well-stocked wine cellar. Viale xxxxx, 6 T:www.anticopignolo.com. 02 xxxxx San Marco, 451 More www.wheremilan.com (Calleinfo: dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. More info: www.where-venice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Venice’s famous Clock Tower For centuries, the Venetians’ days have been marked by the chimes of its famous clock tower, a glorious masterpiece of engineering, offering a 360-degree view over the city. By Stefania Vida

ave you been standing in line for hours waiting to visit the terraces of St. Mark’s Basilica? Does the idea of climbing to the top of the Bell Tower to get a bird’s eye view of the city make you feel dizzy? Well, you can always visit the Clock Tower, where the chiming of the bells marks history! Here are a few tips before beginning your tour. Choose a clear day, carry as few bags as possible (the stairway leading to the top is rather narrow) and, finally, since the meeting point for your guided tour (by reservation only) is the ticket office of the Correr Museum, purchase a combined ticket which offers also access to the Correr Museum, the Archaeological Museum, the Monumental Rooms of the Marciana Library and, if you feel like it, the Ducal Palace.

44 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

The tour starts from what was originally the home of the keeper of the Clock Tower, where you can admire its complicated mechanism close-up. The tower was built in 1497 and the clock mechanism still keeps perfect time. On the roof are two large bronze figures, known as ‘Moors’. In addition to the hours and the days, the Clock Tower’s blue and gold face is engraved with zodiac signs and lunar phases. When the tower was first built, and the Moors struck the hour, wooden statues of the three Magi, led by an Angel, emerged from a door of the loggia on the second floor. Following an in-depth renovation, the device that drove the procession of the Magi was restored and, today, the statues emerge from side panels annually on Epiphany and the Feast of the Ascension. torreorologio.visitmuve.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto

Ghetto di Venezia

This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San

Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

VIVA ARTE VIVA

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions

The 57th International Art Exhibition will be open to the public from Saturday 13 May to Sunday 26 November 2017 at the Giardini and Arsenale venues. Opening times: 10am-6pm; 10am-8pm at the Arsenale venue only on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed on Mondays. The 57th International Art Exhibition will also include 87 National Participations in the historic pavilions at the Giardini, the Arsenale, and in the city of Venice. Over 120 artists will participate with their artworks, installations and performances, 103 are participating for the first time. Selected fringe events will be presented by international organizations. www.labiennale.org FOR UPDATES VISIT www.where-venice.com | www.labiennale.org/en/art Official hashtag: #BiennaleArte2017 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am-

7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5

Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious

celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary monuments of numerous famous people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Santi Giovanni e Paolo One of the city’s most important examples of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with numerous other notable personages. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note: this site might be marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3

Scala Contarini del Bovolo Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pm6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map C5 PHOTO © ANTON NOSSIK

Teatro La Fenice

SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI Located just a 20-minute vaporetto ride from St. Mark’s Square (San Zaccaria stop, line 20), this tiny island, an oasis of peace, hosts the monastery of the Armenian Mekhitarist Fathers. The convent houses a collection of esoteric treasures from the Far East and one of the most important libraries in the western world, including 4,500 rare manuscripts.

46 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.

| SIGHTSEEING

The “Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana”

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www. capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth Century Venetian Art The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings, sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de' Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T: 041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D5

Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art Gallery and Historic Garden The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries, glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an 11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by herons and flamingoes from March to September, Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen. www.museoandrich.com. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347 2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map

Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San

If you stand with your back to Palazzo Ducale you can admire the magnificent Palazzo della Libreria Sansovina, the seat of the Biblioteca Marciana (Marciana National Library), a symbol of Venetian culture. This library boasts a heritage collection of more than one million books preserved alongside the works of great masters including Titian and Tintoretto. Its headquarters, located in the former Mint of Venice and, more specifically, in Piazzetta San Marco, include the adjacent building of the Public Library of St. Mark, with its ancient Reading Room and Vestibule. Some interesting facts for book lovers: its impressive heritage collection includes approximately 1,000,000 books, 13,117 bound manuscripts and 4,639 unbound manuscripts, 2,887 incunabula (documents printed before 1501) and 24,060 ‘cinquecentine’ (16th-century editions). Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.

A visit to the Monumental Rooms of the Library is an absolute ‘must’ (opening hours: 10am-7pm). Featuring an extraordinary Staircase of Honour, a Vestibule, which was later transformed into a Public Statuary, and an ornately decorated Library Room, it is of significant artistic and historical interest and well worth a visit. You can access the Monumental Rooms through the entrance of the Correr Museum (St. Mark’s Square, Napoleonic Wing) using the single ticket for all the Museums in St. Mark’s Square, valid for the Doge’s Palace and the combined itinerary of the Museo Correr, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and the Monumental Rooms of the Marciana National Library (http://correr.visitmuve.it/ it/pianifica-la-tua-visita/biglietti/). Please Note: free guided tours of the Library are organized every second Sunday of the month, booking required. http://marciana.venezia.sbn.it (Stefania Vida) www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 47

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia. it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician dwelling, hosts the art collections that were donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti. These include period furnishing, tapestries, paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current collection features a mixture of Renaissance works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian. An interesting collection of ceramic relics from the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo, the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org. Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3

Museo Archeologico Nazionale Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www. polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5

Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www. correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro The museum, located on the top floor of the Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro family. Here, you will find one of the most important collections in the world of Japanese art from the Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate 48 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain. Other highlights include extensive sections dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket (integrated with the International Gallery of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles the evolution of the art of On the occasion of the Art Biennale, PALAZZO BEMBO is lace-making in Venice from the 16th hosting several unpublished works by New York artist Sam to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25 Havadtoy: the focal point of the exhibition are three busts of December and 1 January. Full price Stalin that progressively metamorphose into Pinocchio. ticket €5. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum €12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2, from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico.org/museo. 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line 12 Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T: 041 5226581. (Burano stop). Off Map Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19, 20 (San Zaccaria stop).Map G4

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)

Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

Museo di San Marco The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of the museum takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo delle Icone The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It houses approximately 80 Byzantine and post-Byzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value. Open daily

Museo di Storia Naturale Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary layout is divided into three sections each of which is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its collection includes more than two million pieces: zoological and paleontological collections, ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban architectural museum complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am-7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm (from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to 4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1 June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

Museo Querini Stampalia The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features several unusual architectural elements designed by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario Botta. Works displayed include paintings by Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the complex also has a library and a space dedicated to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www. querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Storico Navale della Marina Militare The Historic Naval Museum, the most important of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In addition to the main building, whose exhibition spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the ‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it has housed an impressive collection of historical vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s headquarters. > Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148, Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum, is open for public viewing, > Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31 October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs 8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission 4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm. Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello 2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5

palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041 2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop), lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5

Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

| SIGHTSEEING

Palazzo Fortuny Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949) transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his own personal atelier for photography, set-design, textile creations and paintings. The museum’s collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces and materials commissioned for important projects: paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments. The building is now used to host art exhibitions. The museum is open only during temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on the exhibition being shown. www. fortuny.visitmuve.it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041 5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San Samuele stop). Map E4

Palazzo Grassi Museo Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important

Museo Vedova-Magazzini del Sale The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational activities, conventions, study grants and awards). Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to showcase works by the latter, also host temporary exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the Magazzini del Sale 266 – based on a project by Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzini del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro 50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop). Map E6

Palazzo Cini-La Galleria Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca, Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura), period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics. Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.

A fairytale city Two massive hands, 9 metres high, rise from the Grand Canal and support the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. These are the weeks when Venice, more than any other time of the year, resembles something out of a fairytale. Titled ‘Support’, this monumental sculpture by renowned artist Lorenzo Quinn was built for the 2017 Venice Art Biennale. The artist’s aim is to focus on the ADVERTORIAL image of hands as a means of either support or destruction. His artwork conveys a desire to support this Venetian building, while simultaneously supporting Venice and the world; all of which are subjected to powerful climate changes and the destruction wrought by mankind. The artist based the hands on those of his son Anthony, and, by doing so, Lorenzo’s aim was to convey a message of hope. For him the hands represent an appeal to future generations to respond to the need to make significant changes in the world. This work was warmly received by Venetians and tourists alike and also, as noted by Lorenzo Quinn during its inauguration, by the Lagoon’s gondoliers, who are notoriously critical about any form of innovation in the city. The best way to admire this sculpture is from a boat on the Grand Canal or on the opposite bank, in the Rialto market area. (R.B.)

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca Marciana The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana Library, is a museum space that is used to host exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room embellished with 16th century decorations. Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the reading rooms and offices are located, it is still a part of the monumental headquarters of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition to rare books also hosts priceless, antique manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia. sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr, San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F5

Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista

PALAZZO FORTUNY

One of the most spectacular house museums in Venice boasting an extensive collection of paintings, lighting systems, photography and ornate garments, is now used to host temporary exhibitions. www.fortuny.visitmuve.it

collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Grimani Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of its architecture, history and cultural and artistic offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum hosting a few select works, typifying the style of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am7.15pm. Closed 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces

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explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and oldenday accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the “Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100 euro per participant, including Kit and perfume). Reservation is necessary: mocenigo.visitmuve.it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8. www. mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

Peggy Guggenheim Collection Palazzo Venier dei Leoni The museum, boasting one of the most important collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts the personal collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side home showcases her collection of Cubist, Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist art, with works by almost 200 artists, including Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2 (Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or Salute stop). Map E5

Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a complex featuring several different architectural styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art like its superb double staircase (1498) right up to the final major architectural changes made in the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare. It contains numerous artistic masterpieces, including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious space used to host congresses, art exhibitions and concerts. Tours are suspended during congresses. Visit the website to check the days on which the museum is open to the public. Open daily, 9.30am5pm. Full price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo, 2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

A rare collection of perfume bottles from the Storp Collection is on display at the Museum of PALAZZO MOCENIGO until 1 October (www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it).

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ENTERTAINMENT

Vivaldi, an emotional experience Your list of things to do in Venice this summer has just gotten longer! ‘Viva Vivaldi’, a must-see extravaganza, hosted just steps from St. Mark’s Square, has arrived in the city. By Romena Brugnerotto

t’s difficult to describe this event. The best explanation is that the music of Venetian composer Antonio Vivaldi (1678-1741) – known in Venice as the ‘Red Priest’ and universally recognized as the creator of the ‘Four Seasons’(the most widely performed work in the world), is interwoven with his life in a unique narrative. This presentation offers visitors an opportunity to gain insight into the revered composer’s life and works. It is not just a listening experience dedicated to the most important musician and violin virtuoso of the late baroque period, but a multi-sensory experience, enhanced by olfactory effects, to introduce audiences

to a totally unique, interactive format. Three rooms at the Museo Diocesano, 15-20 excerpts of Vivaldi’s compositions, 35 minutes of listening, immersive HD images and cutting-edge technological solutions, volume mappings and videos and light all interact with architectural elements to create a breathtaking performance of shapes, colours, music and emotions. Based on an interpretation by poet and art director Davide Rondoni, with technical production by Jean-François Touillaud, highly skilled artists and technicians have taken this performance to a whole new level to offer audiences a unique sensorial experience.

A unique performance of sounds, images and music!

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>> “Viva Vivaldi – The Four Seasons Mystery” c/o Museo Diocesano (Castello, 4312), close to St. Mark’s Square and the Bridge of Sighs. Vaporetto lines 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria/San Marco stops). Open 10am-10pm (closed on Monday). www.vivavivaldivenezia.com

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www. teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Teatro La Fenice

UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions, featuring world premieres by Igor Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5

Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46 performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’, ‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena. it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map

Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map

WELLNESS Boscolo Venezia Elegance, style and design blend to create a regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a oneof-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich program of wellness and body treatments. c/o Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise stop). Map E2

Centro Benessere Casanova

GAMBLING & CASINOS

An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens where Casanova was known to court his lovers. The Center offers a wide range of treatments and massages with a particular emphasis on facials and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4

Casinò di Venezia

San Clemente Palace Kempinski

Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia. it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2

VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars.

Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and authentic journey based on the restorative powers of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice. The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue - combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map

JW Marriott Venice Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map

Eforea Spa The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6

LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE www.teatrolafenice.it ■ OPERA 1, 3, June and 11, 12, 13, 14, 16 LA TRAVIATA Music by: Giuseppe Verdi Diego Matheuz and Francesco Ivan Ciampa, conductors Robert Carsen, director Patrick Kinmonth, sets and costumes Philippe Girardeau, coreography 4, 6 June IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA (English surtitles) Music by: Gioachino Rossini Alessandro De Marchi, conductor Bepi Morassi, director 450TH ANNIVERSARY OF CLAUDIO MONTEVERDI’S BIRTH 16, 19 June L’ORFEO 17, 20 June IL RITORNO D’ULISSE IN PATRIA 18, 21 June L’INCORONAZIONE DI POPPEA Music by: Claudio Monteverdi Sir John Eliot Gardiner, conductor Elsa Rooke and Sir John Eliot Gardiner, directors 30 June and 2, 4, 6, 8 July LA SONNAMBULA Music by: Vincenzo Bellini Fabrizio Maria Carminati, conductor Bepi Morassi, director Carlos Tieppo, costumes ■ CHAMBER MUSIC 5 June MARIO VENZAGO & L’ORCHESTRA FILARMONICA DELLA FENICE Music by: Ludwig van Beethoven Mario Venzago, director Laura Aikin, soprano ■ CONCERTS 2 June (5pm) CONCERT FOR THE 71TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE ITALIAN REPUBLIC Music by: Georg Friedrich Handel, Franz Liszt, Fryderyk Chopin, Edvard Grieg Elena Nefedova, piano 10, 11 June (Malibran Theatre) JOHN AXELROD CONCERT Jeffrey Tate, conductor 17, 18 June (Malibran Theatre) GIUSEPPE GRAZIOLI CONCERT Music by: Silvia Colasanti, Nino Rota, Gino Marinuzzi Giuseppe Grazioli, conductor

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OUT OF TOWN

Veneto, all the allure of the region Several charming destinations, a perfect way to spend a relaxing day while having fun. By Simona P.K. Daviddii

some of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the perfect place to fall in love. www.tourism.verona.it DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km

VILLAS OF BRENTA The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas,

VERONA Located just over a hundred kilometers from Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning medieval historical center, encircling the Roman Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events in summer. Although the Arena attracts music lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular. Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting an intense cultural life. You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous balcony, while strolling through the streets of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes, aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing crenellated walls, is located just a little further on. The Adige river is located just steps away, and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its historical bridges allows visitors to absorb 54 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

Villa Pisani, Stra

Arena di Verona

set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were built on the banks of different waterways. There are approximately thirty villas, and the best way to admire them is from the water, embarking either in Padua or Venice for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient 18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen. Among the gems that embellish the shores, the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a

must see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widmann, a spectacular 18th century complex. The last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple and friend of Galileo Galilei. www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com

CENTURIES OF HISTORY On the previous page, the Arena di Verona and Villa Pisani in Stra, one of the most famous Veneto Villas. On the right, the Prato della Valle square in Padua. Below, a breathtaking view of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart of the Dolomites. Padua

PADUA Padua lays claim to three thousand years of history, all of which are visible in its urban fabric, where spacious squares (the scenic Prato della Valle is the single largest square in Italy) alternate with paved alleyways, medieval houses and small aristocratic palaces. Not only the birthplace of Saint Anthony, to whom a large basilica is dedicated, but also the town housing Giotto’s magnificent frescoes in the Scrovegni Chapel. No trip to Padua is complete without taking a break at one of its historic cafés (the Pedrocchi is the most famous), either drinking a cup of coffee, or sipping a 'Spritz'. cocktail.

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 40 km CORTINA D'AMPEZZO Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts, a charming town exclusively positioned in the heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol of style, fashion and the Italian way of life, the spectacular scenery and full range of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered by this bustling mountain town attract nature lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons. First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive shopping and a great choice of events and entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a world-class winter destination. Winter offers an array of outdoor activities including excursions on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites from dawn to dusk. cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com

DISTANCE FROM VENICE 420 km

Cortina d'Ampezzo Photo: Snowdog

Cortina d'Ampezzo

Marostica ?

LUGANO MENDRISIO

Vicenza BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona

NOVARA

MILANO Mantua

Abano Montegrotto ?

Padua

Palmanova

? ? Noventa di Piave

?Venice

TRIESTE

? Chioggia

ALESSANDRIA TORINO

Treviso

FERRARA PIACENZA GENOVA

BOLOGNA

RIMINI

MAR LIGURE VENTIMIGLIA

MAR ADRIATICO

PISA

LIVORNO

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ANCONA

OUT OF TOWN | EUGANEAN HILLS

Euganei Hills

A blend of art and nature The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989, and is located southwest of Padua. It offers visitors a unique blend of breathtaking landscapes, history and artistic attractions. While travelling across the plains of the Veneto region, visitors will be astonished by the unexpected sight of the Euganean Hills. Standing in total isolation southwest of Padua, their conical shapes testifies to their volcanic past, though they are never higher than 600 metres. The Regional Park of the Euganean Hills was established in 1989 to protect this area of the volcanic hills that were formed 35 million years ago.

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Offering views of rare beauty, they abound in beech and chestnut woods, enhanced by vast expanses of lush meadows and vineyards, interrupted only by picturesque, historic towns, isolated castles and aristocratic dwellings of a bygone era. Veneto’s Euganean Hills are the perfect place to indulge in leisurely excursions on foot, horseback or mountain bikes. Criss-crossed by a vast network of trails and footpaths, the area’s most scenic itineraries include the trail that leads to the Schivanoia waterfall in Teolo, and the path to the Costa Lake. Fed by hot water originating from thermal springs, the lake is the main ‘supplier’ of the therapeutic mud used by the Euganee Spa complex and it is situated just a short distance from Arquà Petrarca, one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. Other attractions worth visiting in the Regional Park include two walled cities. These are Este, encircled by a curtain wall featuring twelve towers, separated by curtain walls with Guelph crenellations and two imposing keeps, whose original plan dates back to 1050, and Monselice, where an ancient medieval castle vies for attention with elegant patrician

dwellings, like Villa Nani-Moncenigo, and the 16th century Villa Emi Capodilista. The imposing remains of a Frederician tower dominate the latter. As far as villas are concerned, the area encompassing the Euganean Hills boasts several noble dwellings. These are renowned for their sophisticated architecture and are set within beautifully tended grounds. The most impressive of these is the 17th century Villa Barbarigo in Galzignano Terme. Its magnificent Baroque garden has 16 fountains, 70 statues, three water features and an ancient boxwood labyrinth. The Colli area is also noted for its picturesque Strada del Vino (Wine Road) which allows visitors to discover one of the area’s most unique Docg wines, ‘Fior d’Arancio’ (‘orange blossom’), a white wine that can be sampled in three different versions: dry, spumante and a sweet ‘passito’ (or dessert wine). From wine to water, part of the Euganean Hills can also be visited aboard a motorboat river cruise. The tour starts from Battaglia Terme and ends in Bassanello on the outskirts of Padua. En-route, visitors can admire the Catajo Castle (1570) and the monumental Villa Molin.

Magical water

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

One of the largest and most important spa centres in Europe, the thermal baths in Abano and Montegrotto have been renowned for the therapeutic properties of their water and mud since ancient Roman times. Before gushing to the surface with an average temperature of 75° centigrade, the waters of the Terme Euganee take 25 years to travel 80 kilometres underground at a depth of 3,000 metres. Their journey takes them through calcareous rocks where they are enriched by precious mineral salts that make them the most effective salt-bromine-iodine therapeutic waters of all time. Their extraordinary therapeutic properties were recognized in Roman times (the acronym spa derives from the Latin word salus per aquam, health through water) and were widely enjoyed more than 2,000 years ago by the ancient populations, who settled and succeeded one another in the area. An interesting fact: the ancient Venetians venerated Aponus, the god of thermal waters and curative treatments, hence the name Abano. Although the first thermal facilities were only established in the 18th century, the area of Abano, Montegrotto, Galzignano, Battaglia and Teolo now boasts 130 facilities equipped with spas (and more than 220 swimming pools) offering balneotherapy, the immersion in thermal baths to alleviate muscular and joint pain, and improve skin conditions. Other treatments include hydrokinetic therapy, an ideal therapy for post-traumatic rehabilitation, as well as inhalation therapy and mud therapy. In addition to the curative waters of the Terme Euganee, the local vegetal-mineral mud, obtained from the mineralization of earth and clay and the formation of special microscopic algae, also contains important thermal properties. The Terme Euganee are not only effective for healing. The water and mud are also used for wellness and beauty treatments, including detoxification and relaxing programs, anticellulite and weight-loss massages and anti-

ageing masks to combat the loss of skin tone and restore elasticity. And that’s not all! Once you have completed your treatment regimen, you can take home the exclusive cosmetic of "Venetian Thermal Water", made with local thermal water of the Euganean Hills (www. aquaehotels.it). Between treatments, those wishing to explore the surrounding areas should head to the picturesque town of Battaglia Terme, a romantic location overlooking a series of canals. Other must-visit sites while in the area include the numerous Renaissance villas surrounding Galzignano Terme and the ancient archaeological excavations of Montegrotto Terme, including the three Roman baths decorated with mosaics and

marble flooring. Finally, don’t miss the Casa delle Farfalle (the House of Butterflies) in Montegrotto). This magical place is ‘inhabited’ by live species of butterflies from all over the world. The House of Butterflies is connected to the Bosco delle Fate (the Fairies Wood), an enchanted place, where each tree is associated with a fairytale or legend.

SPA HOTELS

ONLY 45 MINUTES FROM VENICE

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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the Floating City Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi Italians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 58 W H E R E V E N I C E I J U N E 2017

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some © PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA rather unpleasant surprises!

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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT VCE  Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www. alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains

“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE

FERROVIE DELLO STATO  Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity:

Tourist Information

Santa Croce

Isola di San Michele

Cannaregio

San Polo Dorsoduro

Castello

San Marco

Giudecca

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA  The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and most densely populated district of Venice. Its name probably derives from the expanse of reeds found in the swamps on which it was built. Castello takes its name from the castle of which traces still remain today. It extends around the Arsenale and includes the Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli Schiavoni. Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along which the long promenade known as the Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.

San Marco takes its name from the Basilica. This is the city’s main sestiere because it houses the palaces that once constituted the government of Venice until its fall. San Polo, which takes its name from the church of San Polo, is the geographic centre of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the Rialto fish and vegetable market is held. Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient church of the same name which unfortunately was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It includes the Stazione Marittima and the piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).

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ESSENTIALS Special Tours CITYSIGHTSEEING VENICE HOP ONHOP OFF Exclusive view on the city of Venice. www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it • Tickets 24h: adults 20€, children (5-15 years) 10€. • Tickets 48h: adults 27€, children (5-15years) 13€. Tickets available: on board at any boat stop, at the CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center, on the "Sightseeing Experience" free App, on www.venezia.city-sightseeing.it. • Duration: 150 minutes (every 60 minutes) • Services: wheelchair welcome, free Wi-Fi, Free "Sightseeing Experience" App (for Apple and Android smartphones) with the City Sightseeing Tour Map always with you, walking tour available in 5 different languages, CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center. • Eight Stops: Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – San Marco, in front of Giardinetti Reali – Lido S.M. Elisabetta, pontile ACTV – Murano, Yalos Murano Pontile Fornace Ferro – Zattere Incurabili – Stazione Marittima (Cruise Terminal) – Ferrovia Compartimentale Santa Lucia. • New CitySightseeing Venice Visitor Center (inside the main train station Venezia Santa Lucia,next to "Freccia Club Trenitalia": any kind of information on the service and on the city, maps and exchange vouchers. Open daily (from April to November): 8.30am-5.30pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.

experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www. gondolavenezia.it

Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) .

Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice.

Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to

Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport.

PHOTO © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!

A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have withstood the test of time? The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’, ‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.

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Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height. Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons. Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy, the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice (Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it). An interesting feature that you are bound to notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its most recent version was created by the Style Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio Ceccato. The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin'). Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where? At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17 (T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885). www.emilioceccato.com

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THE LIDO OF VENICE

Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much more. An island, a town with its own history and a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema.

The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon and the open sea, only connected to the city and dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats. The clear difference between the Lido and Venice is that the Lido has real streets, which means you get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s, Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on foot or by bicycle.

WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160 hectares of land, including two kilometers of golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.

LIKE A SCENE FROM A MOVIE One of the most memorable scenes from ‘Death in Venice’ (1971), the cinematographic masterpiece directed by Luchino Visconti, shot on the beach of the Lido in Venice. Photo © Mario Tursi, Archivio Storico del Cinema.

Among other attractions, the area is home to an exclusive golf club set against a stunning backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder of the famous automotive house and an avid fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the course in 1926, when he discovered to his disappointment that there was nowhere else where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced in America, but not in Italy at that time.

WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient town that offers visitors a mini experience of Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a more northerly direction, is the settlement of San Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in the 11th century. WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the remains of ancient fortresses which are now used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to be there at the right time, you will be treated to a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching for clams. One of the island’s rituals, that you should not miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale, the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds in fabulous small restaurants.

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Rio de San Gerolamo

CALLE DEL DOSE

CAGNOLETO

PESCARIA

DEL

CALLE

DEI

FORNI

L’ARSENAL

DOSE DEL

CALLE

DE FONDAMENTA

NAVE

VOLTO

LA DE

DEL

FRUTARIOL

PARADISO DEL

DEL

CALLE

ISEPO

SANT'ANTONIO

COLONNE CALLE

C. D EL

CAR

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

GEN

ERA

INO

TTO

CAL

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

Sant'Elena

SANT'ELENA

VIALE O

Aeroporto Nicelli Venezia Lido

Teatro Verde

LÒ

Japan Pavilion

MAGGIORE

EMB

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

VIALE

E IV NOV

United States Pavilion

VIAL

PALUDO CALLE

Rio d el Giardini

CALLE

SAN GIORGIO

Le Zitelle

VI O

Lido S. Nicolo' M

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

R E

DELL'OLIO

FERRANDO

CALLE

DE LE ERBE

NOBILI

LUNGO

STRETTA

CALLE DEL FORNO

BRESSANA

CALLE VERROCCHIO DEL

VENIERA

CALLE

FORNO

BO DONZELLA C.

DEL

CALLE

BALBI

C. DE LA MADONETA

CALLE

SANT’ANTONIO

LOVO DEL CALLE

CALLE

CORONA

DELLA

LEONARDO

LA SACRESTIA

C. CORONA

CALLE RIMPETTO

ALBANESI

CALLE DE LE RASSE

CALLE DEL

CATERINA

L’ABAZIA Misericordi

CAMPO

SANTA

della

FOSCARINI

LUNGA

CALLE

Canale

MISERICORDIA FOND.

RACHETA LA DE

FELICE

CALLE

I ZZ PO

Dolce

PRIULI

FOORNO

Ca’

DEL

Rio

VELE DE

CALLE

APOSTOLI

CALLE

PISTOR

SANTI

DEL

VERDI

CALLE

C.SANT’ANTONIO

RIO TERRÀ

SALIZADA

SOFIA

SANTA

CAMPO

CANNAREGIO

SALIZADA

BOMBASEI

APRILE II

CALLE

MERCERIA

STAGNERI

C. DEI

GIOVANNI

S.G. GRISOSTOMO

CALLE

ZULIAN SAN

BALOTE

CALLE

LE DE

PISCINA

CALLE

NUOVE

FOSCARI CALLE

CALLE DEI FUSERI

SALONI

RIO CROCE

ROTONDA

SAN

AI ZATTERE FONDAMENTA

DELLE

I CASE

CASE

CAPITELO

FONDAMENTA

DEL

PIAVE

CALLE

LARG

CALLE BECCARIE DE CALLE

ROSA

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

LARGA

CALLE

ETTI,

VECCHIA

CALLE

TI, RÀ

FA R S

CALLE

CORTE

RS FA

RIO T ERÀ

CALLE

DEL

RIELLO

CALLE

TREVISAN

CAMIN

RIO

COLOMBINA CALLE

PESARO

QUERIN,

CALLE

SAN FONDAMENTA

CALLE

TRAGHETO

FONTEGO

MEGIO

DEL

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

DEL

SALITA

CALLE

STAE

FORNO DEL

SAN

D’ORO

CA’

LUCIA

CALLE

LARGA

SALIZADA

ROSA

SANTA

CALLE

GRUE

DEL

LE DE

CALLE

CARMINATI

CAMPANIEL DEL

REGINA

SALIZADA

PICCOLO

FONDAMENTA

SIMON

CALLE

BOTERI

DEI CALLE

L’ANZOLO

STUA LA

CALLE

SECONDO

CRISTO

TERA’

DEL

RIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DRIO

DORSODURO SESTIERE

CALLE

SAN

MEZZO CALLE

L’ARCHIVIO

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CALLE

ROCCO SAN

ALBANESI DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

RAGUSEI

LIPOLI

ORBI DEI

CALLE

LE DE

GIUSTINIAN

EUFEMIA BEATA CALLE

DEL

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

SANGIANTOFFETTI

EREMITE

FONDAMENTA

DEI CORTELLOTTI

FONDAMENTA NANI

FOSCARINI

FONDAMENTA

TERRÀ

VENIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

DEI

SANT'ELENA

Rio

SANT'ELENA

Parco delle Rimembranze

Santa Croce

FONDAMENTA

U I P

GRANDE

TERÀ

PALUDO

CROCE

VIALE PIAVE

CALLE

RIO

PONTE

San Giuseppe di Castello

Russia Pavilion

CALLE

CORTE

Giardini

S. Giorgio

FIANCO

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

SAN GIACOMO

CENETTE

PIETRO CORTELIESINA DA

CALLE

ALDI

ACCADEMIA

IST

Lungo

R L C

IB PE GAR

ION

FONDAMENTA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

QUINTAVALLE CALLE

POLACCA

CALLE

ROSA

SALAMON

CALLE

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

O E ANC

DOMENICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

CALL

CALLE

COPPO

SCHIAVONA

LARGA

MARAFONI

CALLE

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

CALLE

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CALLE TERCO

F O N D A M E N TA

C A L L E C ATA PA N

CALLE

CALLE DELL’ANGELO

DELFINA

GRIMANI

CALLE

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

FOND. SAN GIOACCHIN

OSPIZIO

CALLE

de le

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA

CALLE

San Francesco di Paola BALD

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALLE

NUOVA

DEI PRETI

I S ET

FONDAMENTA

ENA

COLTRERA

CALLE

GARI

EPPE

CALLE FRIZIER

C. LOREDANA

Ponte

ARS

NALE

FONDAME

IUS VIA G

CALLE

DELLA

ERBE

E N TA

TA A R SE

LA TANA

CROSERA

CALLE

RAMO DE

CALLE

CALLE ALBERO

JUNGHANS

AMEN

TANA

Punta della Dogana

Redentore O

Santissimo Redentore

CALLE MORE

del

FOND

DE LA

CALLE

SAN GI ACOM

CAMPO

CALLE

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CAMPO

CASTELLO

M E N TA

VIDA

ISOLA DI

GIUDECCA FONDA

PICCOLO

DEI

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

PIETRO

PONTE

PALLADA

SCUOLA

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

CALLE DELA CREA

Zitelle

FONDAMENTA

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Spirito Santo

CALLE

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

FEM

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

FORNACE

SALONI

'EU

DE CALLE

CROSERA

Arsenale di Venezia

PIGNATER

C. VOLTO

TERRÀ

SCUOLA

PISCINA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CATECUMENI

RIO

CALLE

L’ARCO

CALLE

ONI

DEL PIOVAN

RIO TERRÀ

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

MARTIN SAN

SALIZADA

FONDAMENTA

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

San Gregorio

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

Giudecca Palanca EN

NUOVE

CASTELLO

BASTION

SCUDI

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

DEI PUTI

CELESTIA

DONA

L’ANZOLO

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DE

DEGLI

CALLE

SAN

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

COSMO

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Sant'Eufemia

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

ANTONIN

S C H I AV

Arsenale

BIAGIO

CALLE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

SAN

R I VA D EGLI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

100 m

SAN

CONVERTITE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

DEGLI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

SAN

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CALLE

VERONA

RIO

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

MINELLI

DEGLI

SCHIAVONI RIVA

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

SALUTE

LAVRANERI

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

CALLE DEL BASTION

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CALLE

TRONCHETTO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

FONDAMENTA

ra Scomenze De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO

FONDAMENTA

F. CONDULMER

DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO

CERERIA LA DE C.

PORTO

DIREZIONE

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

DEI PRETI

GATE

CALLE

DRASI

ZORZI SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

DE LE

Marittim

DEL CAFETIER

CORTE NOVA

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

FABBRI

FONDAMENTA

DEL

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

DEI

PISCINA

VERONA

RIELO

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

A N M

SALIZADA

DEI

CALLE

C. DE LE COLONNE

DELL’OROLOGIO

LARGA

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

SEVERO

CALLE

MARZARIA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

LATERANO

SAN

FABBRI

MAGAZZINI

Santa Maria del Pianto

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

C. DE

RIO TERA’

L' ARZERE

GUARDIANI

TODESCHI

CALLE

CANAL RIO TERA’

C. DEI

Rio San Lorenzo

DE CALLE

RUGA

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CARBON

Salvador

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

Palazzo Ducale

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

LIO

DEL

CORTE NUOVA

San Giovanni Novo

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San

RIO

CALLE

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO DEL

SAN

CALLE

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

SAN

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CALLE ERIZZO

SALIZADA

CALLE

Rio

Stazione

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

ORBI

DE LE

DEI

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

BEMBO

GRIMANI

CAVALLI

zera

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE DEL FORNO

C.DEI

REMER

CALLE

O MUSSATO CALLE

ZULIAN

CORTE TORRETTA

ZZA

O DEL

CINQUE

CALLE

CORNER

DIETRO

DEI

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

COCCO

TOSCANA

LIO

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

Museo Correr

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAMENTA

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

MADONA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

PIA

FONDAMENTA

ZATTERE

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

NOVE

BERLENDIS

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

MEZO

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

Salute

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

CORTE

RUBBI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

GALLO

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

SAN

C. LARGA

CORTE

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Ca' Giustinian

Palazzo Genovese

PONTE

SACCA SAN

DEI

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

GIAZZO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

DEL

TAGIAPIERA

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO CALLE

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

CASTELLO

CALLE

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

ROSSA

nde Canal Gra

FONDAMENTA

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

CROSERA

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

VAPORETTO

ORESI

CALLE

DOLERA

SAN

DELLE

SAN

DEL CALLE

CORTE BAROZZI

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO

C. DEL

SABION

FRUTARIOL

DEL

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

SESTIERE

DEI

PARANGON

CALLE

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

FREZZERIA

MOISE’

SA PISCINA

XXII MARZO

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

RUGA

GALIZZI

STURION

DEL

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CALLE

SAN CANZIAN

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

MAGAZEN

DEL

CALLE

SALIZADA

MAZZINI CORTE

LUCA SAN CALLE

CALLE

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

FONTEGO

SAN LIO

LARGA

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CORTE

MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

DEL

VOLTI

C. DEL

SALIZZADA PIO

CALLE

TEATRO

CALLE ASSASSINI

San Fantin

Maria del Giglio

Casa di Marco Polo

Fontego dei Tedeschi

Ponte di Rialto Rialto

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

TERÀ

RIO

Teatro la Fenice

DELLA

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

CAMPO MANIN SAN CALLE CALLE

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Rialto (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

MARCO

DEL

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

San MaurizioSanta

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

Fontego Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin

S.Silvestro

DEL

CALLE

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

Santo Stefano

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CATERINA

PRIULI

NOVA

CAMPO DELLA

RAVANO

DEI

CALLE

CAZZIOLA

TRAGHETTO

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

Zattere

Giudecca Hilton

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

Santa Sofia

STRADA

FABBRICHE

DEL

RUGHETA

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

Palazzo Grimani

San Beneto San Luca

SAN BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CATENE

SANTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

STUA

BECARIE

DEL SOL

DEL

CALLE

ZATTERE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA

NOVE

CALLE

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

MUTI

CAMPO SAN APONAL

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON DEL

CARAMPANE

de r an

NARISI FOND.

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

San Trovaso FONDAMENTA

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

CROSERA

FALIER

BONLINI

DEL

San Felice

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

SAMUELE

Palazzo Loredan

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

LONGO

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

VENDRAMIN

CALLE

DE DE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

al G

SESTIERE

S. SALIZADA

CARROZZE

CALLE

S. Samuele

CALLE

OGNISANTI

TRAPOLIN

CA'

CALLE CALLE

RIO

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

Can Sant'Angelo

VECCHIA

LEZZE

San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN

L’AGNELLA

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

CA’ CORTE

Abazia della Misericordia D

Santa Fosca

TIOZZI

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Rio Nuovo

FOND.

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

DEI

SCALETER

CALLE RAMO

PONTE

CALLE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

DEL

Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

S.Stae

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

BOLDO

San Tomà

Ca' Rezzonico

Accademia

ZATTERE AL

CALLE CHIESA

TRON

SAN

MORETTI

CONTARINI

dell'Orto

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

CALLE

DEL

TENTOR

MEZO

CAMPO

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI CALLE BERNARDO

FODAMENTA

S. Basilio

DELLA

CALLE

TABACCHI

Bacino

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

CROSERA

Ca' Rezzonico

Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

SAN POLO

CAMPO DEI FRARI

CALLE

San Barnaba

Madonna

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CALLE

NUOVA

PRETI

L’ASEO

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CAMPO SAN ROCCO

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

DONZELA

CALLE

TINTORETTO

DEI

CALLE

FOMO

ALE

SAN

CALLE

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

RENIER

DEL

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

DE OGNISANTI

NIE

PAPADOPOLI

TERÀ

Basilica dei Frari

San Rocco

Muneghete

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

Chiesa di Ognissanti

FONDAMENTA

DEI

M .DA

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

La Maddalena

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

OCHE

LATTE

LACA

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

BASEGO

RIO

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

À D E

SOTOPORTEGO

CALLE DE LA LACA

RAMO

CIMESIN

SAN

CALLE

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

FO de Servi N

TER

TOLENTINI

FONDAMENTA

DEI

CALLE DELL'OLIO

FON.

Canale

DE LA VIDA

C.VENZATO

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

Rio

SALIZADA

del

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

100 m

TERA’

RAMO

CALLE ORSETTI

TINTOR

BESAGIO

Misericordia

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

DEL

SALIZADA

della

Rio

San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE

DEI

LIBERTÀ

VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI

SIMEONE LUNA

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE

Rio

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano SAN

CALLE CAZZA

FONDAMENTA

CANAL

DEI AMAI

RAMO

Del

Rio dei Tolentini

FONDAMENTA

CALLE CONTARINA

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

RUGA BELA

BARI

DELLA

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO

DEI

Angelo Raffaele

DORSODURO

Rio

CALLE

NUOVA

CERERI

FONDAMENTA

LARDONI

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO

LARGA

PONTE PROCURATIE

DEI

CALLE

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

BIASIO

BARI

CALLE

LUNGA

Scomen

CALLE

RIZZI FONDAMENTA

FONDAMENTA

DE L’OGIO

VECCHIO

RIVA

LISTA

San Simeone Profeta

Soranzo Cappello

DE CAMPO

San Nicola da Tolentino

Rio

PENSIERI

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

DEI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ICO

NOVA

MISERICORDIA

SANT'ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

MADONA

SAN MICHELE

FONDAMENTA

della

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI

Giardino di Palazzo

CASE CORTE

CALLE

C. LAVADORI TERÀ

TABACCHI

RIO

MIS

RIO

NUOVE

CROCE

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FABBRICA FONDAMENTA

E DEL PISTO

MUNEGHE

CROCE

CALLE

CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

STRADA

SPAGNA

FONDAMENTA

Ferrovia

CORTE

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

NICOLO’ SAN

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

CALL

San Leonardo

San Geremia DI LISTA TERÀ RIO

SCALZI

DEI Ponte degli Scalzi

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

LA FO.

TERÀ

MARTA

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE SAN BASILIO

EONARDO

SAN LEONARDO

CALLE TRAGHETTO

CALLE

CAVALLETTI

Santa Maria di Nazareth

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione

RIO

People Mover Venezia

SANTA FONDAMENTA

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

Rio

LER

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

DELL'ORTO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE

ER LE P

TRONCHETTO

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

Museo Ebraico CAL

A E M

CALLE

DEL

CANNAREGIO

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

NOVA

San Girolamo

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

INE

DEL

CALLE

SAVORGNAN

MATTIA

PISCINA

SAN

L’ARCO

CALLE

N G IR

SAN

Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA

VECCHIA

LLO

RUGA

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DA PONTE

B AT

DOGE

CALLE

FORNER

CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO

DEL

SEBASTIANO

CALLE

CANNAREGIO

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

VENEZIA

di Sant'Alvise

Sensa

COLETTI

Canale

GIOBBE

People Mover Venezia

della

CARLO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

San Giobbe

BRAGADIN

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

VENIER FONDAMENTA

PENITENTI

CANNAREGIO

DEL SABION

LARGA

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

CALLE

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI

CALLE

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

FONDAMENTA

F O N D A M E N TA

TA’

CORTE

SANT'AGNESE

Parco

BRAGADIN

PISCINA

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

INCURABILI

CALLE ZUCCHERO

C A

S. Servolo

N TA

ILEI

VI SC

VIC

AN D'

ZAR

VIA

RIA

ISA

VIA

S TA

T TA

HIE

O LL GA

MIC

VIA

DOL

O E NR

ICO

V I A L E PA N T O

VIA

DAN

MOCENIGO

ZIO

E C I PA

O PA RT

ORS

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI ARMENI

VIA

VIA VETTOR PISANI

VIA

AQU

VIA

Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia

VIA

SAN MICHELE

SAN SERVOLO

ISOLA LA GRAZIA

RIV

IER

CIP

A S A

Hundertwasser' Garden

VIA

N N IC

CALLE ORTI

VIA CAN DIA

Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

VIA

SANDRO

O SE LV

VIA

ENIC

GALLO

DOM

GALLIPOLI

VIA

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m

VIA

SANDRO

ISOLA

GALLO

DI LEMNO

Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE

LAZZARETTO VECCHIO

Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI

ISOLA DELLE ROSE

M O M EL

Hotel Excelsior Venice

R AT

PIZZAMANO

VIA

O LL

PIE

VIA

S. Antonio Di Padova

I VI

MA O LM IE NG

CRISTOFORO

VIA

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO

COLOMBO

VIA

SAN

SAN PIGAFETTA

PIGAFETTA

LIDO

I S E

O LL GA

A VI

O VA

I E

VIA

VIA FRANCESCO

PEZZANA

I R E

Z AT

VIA M

GIOVANNI ON

PIVIDOR

A VI CO OC AM AL M

CC O AM AL M A VI

A RIN CA TE

CA LLE

AR INI

NTA

CATE NE

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

O NI

RO UE SQ L DE

n ti

DI CA

ic a

IM EN

DE TA

i M e

R io

ELLO CAST

GIUSTINA SANTA

TI I OR GL DE LL E

PIETA’

E CA ST

EL LO

ve VID A

A STR ETA

TAN A LA TANA

E N N LO O C LE AL C

San Giuseppe di Castello O EP IO N IS ON SA 'ANT NT SA DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA

TERÀ RIO

AL E

Russia Pavilion

G IA

SAN T'EL

TTO

Sant'Elena

ENA

see pages 4-5

S. Servolo

INO

ERA

GEN

ENA

Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

T'EL ENTA SAN

Top in Town

CAL

FON DAM

E VIAL E PIAV

CAR

C. D EL

PIZ

XXIV M AGG

CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O

Japan Pavilion

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO  PONTE DEI SOSPIRI  CANAL GRANDE  SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO  TEATRO LA FENICE  CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO  PALAZZO DUCALE  THE GHETTO  PONTE DI RIALTO  THE ISLANDS 

LL E

S MA

Teatro Verde

MAGGIORE

SAN GIORGIO

U I P

United States Pavilion

VIALE

M CA

CC A

M CA

LA E PO

TT E

Le Zitelle

Zitelle

L EL

ION

BB O

O TR A E PIE SIN RT LIE CO DA

LL E

Giardini

ISOLA DI

SA IST

E US

S. Giorgio

R L C

EL CA LL

ERA

O E ANC

CAMPO SAN ISEPO

Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

C A L L E C ATA PA N

OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P

CALL

SANT'ANNA

CALLE CORERA

ALDI

IB PE GAR

IAN

GIUSEP

SARES

CALLE

Punta della Dogana

I S E

DOME NICO CALLE SAN

VIALE

PO E COP

IAVO E SCH

CALL

SALUT E

N FOND. SAN GIOACCHI F O N D A M E N TA

I GELO CALLE DELL’AN

BALD

AM ON

OS E CR

GARI

A C. LOREDAN

San Francesco di Paola

RERA

VA E NUO

DELFINA CALLE

GRIMANI CALLE

oise

EPPE

N TA R I O D E L L A TA NA CALLE FRIZIER

CALL

ESSO

PRET E DEI

LAR

E COLT

CALL

VAL

RTIRI

IUS VIA G

SAL

V TA

FONDAME

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CAL

RAMO DE

FONI

DE LA

CALL

CALLE

FO ND

CAM PO

MARA

CALL E

EN TA

SAN PIETRO DI CASTELLO

CALLE TERCO

NALE

CALLE MONTELLO SAN EL ENA

TA A R SE

A RO SA

AMEN

E LA RG

EMB

FOND

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CA LL

SAL IZAD

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

I MA

100 m

ENA

DEI FORNI

Arsenale

ARS

E IV NOV

DE I FO RN I

E N TA

P IE

CA LL E

CA LLE

DAM

ION

FONDAMENTA

ini

mo DEI

ARSENALOTTI

M OR OSI NA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

FON

FONDAMENTA

Rio de San Gerola

DE L CA GN OL ET O

CAL LE

Verg

ONI

CAL LE

S C H I AV

CA LL E

R I VA D EGLI

PES CAR IA

CALLE DEL DOSE

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

San Martino

CALLE DEL FORNO

I ITT GR

E LL CA

CR OSE RA

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

NDAM ENTA

de le

Arsenale di Venezia

RIN ST PE

L’A

CA LL E

E DE LL CA

RS EN

NATER PIG

CALLE DE LA PIETA’

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

VIAL

am Fond

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Can

N SA

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Rio d el Giardini

Nuo

L’AN ZO LO

enta

ale

A IN SC PI

CO L’AR

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

IER

CASTELLO

DO NA

M AG NO CAL LE

DEL TE DEUM

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE DEL FO CALLE ZORZI

GRECI

CALLE DEI

delle

E CAPP

FONDAMENTA

CALL

CAL PEL LO O CAP

FO DE ND AM L CR EN TA IS TO

UCC INE

LE MUR

CALLE CAVALL I

CAL LE MAS SA C. DE LE MOS CHE TE

AN A

IERA

DE LL A CO RO NA

LEONAR DO

C. COR ONA

CALLE RIMPET TO LA SACRES TIA

CALLE DE LE RASSE

ALBANESI CALLE DEL

SA NT ’A NT ONI O

CA LL E PIS CIN A SA N ZU LIA N CALLE BALB I

RAM

DE LL E CA O

ALL

C. DE LA MADONETA

L DO

DEL

DIS

UT AR

L VO

NA VE

E DE

STA GNERI

C. DEI

BA LO TE LE

BR ESS

SALIZADA

I SE M BA

BO E

AP II

A RI CE M ER

LO VO

CA LL E DE

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CALL

CENS

VO HIA

HIA RUGA VECC

A AS

DIC

OTT LE RID

LE TRE

CAL

I SC

LE ST

O C. VOLT

LARG

MO GL A DE RIV

A N M

DE ADA SALIZ

CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà SCHIA

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

LLE

an Moisè

SA LO

DEGLI

LE CAL

N TI AR M

DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA

Museo Correr

R I VA

N IO ST BA

Palazzo Ducale

San Zaccaria

VIN CALLE DEL

OLO

7 2

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

ANT ONIN

LL A

L DE

AL CAV

SALIZAD A SAN

E LL CA

DEL

l Palaz

SAN

ZZA

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

RI BB FA

PIA

ENTA FONDAM

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

DEI

Rio De

LE CAL

Basilica di San Marco

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

C. PIA NTON

CAL LE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DEI FURLANI

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

IN MAR DE L’OS

LL E

CAL LE

CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE BOSELLO

IA AR AD SP IO OG OL LL’OR IA DE AR RZ MA

O DIV RE O

ONI CA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE LION

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

I UD I SC GL DE LLE CA

I ER HI EC I SP E DE LL CA

LE CAL

MAR

LA CAN LE DE

I PRET

E NUO

SE ST

O DE L’OGI CALLE

E GAT

RI BB I FA DE

GA SAN

CAL

CORTE DEL MORION

SALIZADA SANTA GIUSTIN A

ASI DR

E LL

LE LAR

E DEI CALL

ENT A CAS

MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO

DAM

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

DE LE

Bacino Orseolo

CALLE DEL FIGHER CO

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

San Francesco della Vigna

SCO

LLE CA

CA AN E BI LL CA

LO EL PP CA

RO VE N SE SA

CAL

NI LO EI BA C.D

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

IO ED M L RE DE

DEL FORNO

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

LE CAL

CORTE

E DE LL CA

O EZ M

FA GIUF

IA ER EL SS CA

AG GR E C. LE COLONNE ZZ DE RA RÀ TE O RI O LL GA N SA E LL CA CAMPO SAN GALLO

CORTE NUOVA

San Giuliano

INA

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

CORTE

FRUTARIOLI

NCE

IZADA SAL

LE DE CAL

San Lorenzo

FRA

CALLE ERIZZO

A SC TA

ZON

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

Rio San Lorenzo

LE SAN

CORTE NOVA

GA RU

O AT USS M

CALLE

FON

CAL

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

TA EN AM ND FO

L IO

LE CAL

CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

LICINI

E DEL CAFE

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

DE LE BAN

CALL

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

CORTE

RUBBI

LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GIA AR PI ZA ER C. LE RI A DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I

E’

DE LE TOLE

SA N GIFO OVNDAM AN EN NI LA TA TE RA NO

CORTE TREVISAN

I OR

SAL VAD OR

PRIMO RINA AMOCONTA TE

BARB ARIA

CORTE

Santa Maria del Pianto

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

LL E

CALICE

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

L IZ

DE LE ERBE

LIO

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO NO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

SA N

FOR

REM

AD A

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione C. LARG A

DE LA FAVA

D. PA LLE

CAMPO

C. DEL

CA LL E DE MAR ZA M EZ RIA O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE

R io

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

SA LIZ C. DE L GA LIAZZO

PIO

DE L GO

ZZO

CORTE GRAGOLINA

IOL

LLE

ARTIN

CAMPO SAN LIO

GIA

C. DE

G. GA LLI

LE DEL

CALL E

CA LLE

CORTE DEL

AZEN

TEL

DEL CO O

C.M

SAN

LE CAS

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

LE VEN

CAL

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

San Salvador

RD DE

CAL

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

MA RZA RIA

CA LLE

LL CA

CORTE

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

CAL

O RN FO L DE

SABION

ST UO

LAR

VENEZIA

D IS

S.G. GRISOS TOMO

RIO

DR IO CA LLE LE SC

CA LLE

TE ST A

E DE

CA LL

CA LLE GA BR IEL

CA VE RRLLE DE L OC CH IO

CORTE NOVA

C ALL E

CAN ZIAN

LE COC

PIO

TEG

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

MAZ ZINI

AN SALVADOR

DEL

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN VA RI SC O

CAL

SA LIZZ AD A

FON

CAL LE

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

S.Canciano

C. DEL

I B O

Casa di Marco Polo

9deiFontego Tedeschi

omo to

METO

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

A SAN

RIO TER RÀ

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

AR NN

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

TI ET OR EM LL CA

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

SAL IZAD

ST EL LA

SAN TI

RAMO

TAR IOL

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CA LL E

APO STO

A FRU

CAL

À BA RB

San Giovanni Grisostomo

te alto

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

AZZ O

I CO

lc e

TER

PIS TO

E VO LT

E VE NI

C AL

i Ap os

CA LL

SART ORI

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

i ia e

to li ZE

Sa nt

de i

’D o

GA RU

R io

RIO

DE L

CORTE DEL REMER

AD A

CA LL

SA LIZ

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

RI NA

AZE N

R io

DE LA PIETA’

DE L MAG

ND RE

BA N DI

. S.A

CAL LE

C.S AN T’A NT ON IO

angelica ana

CA LL

Santi Apostoli

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

E FO SC

SA A NG LU E LL AM

FERRUCCIO PARRI

Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

FOND .

LA RG A

ALVISOPOLI

VIA

CA LLE

se A ric or dia

VIA

MALAMOCCO

CA ND

FO ND

ISOLA POVEGLIA

R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O

SE NA

Parco delle Rimembranze VI

VI A

SAN

T' EL

EN A

SANT’ELENA

Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 63

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Venice Magazine

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4

Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS A Tribute to Music – Castello, 4127 • F4 Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta De Losmarin) • G5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 • D4

Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 Villa Ines – Via Lazzaro Mocenigo, 10 (Lido) • Off Map OUT OF TOWN 4 STAR & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) THERMAL HOTELS 5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd) Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro D’Abano, 1 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro D’abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd) Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) 4 STAR DELUXE (L) & 4 STAR Garden Terme (S) – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd) La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano Terme (Pd) Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd) Tritone– Via A. Volta, 31 – Abano Terme (Pd) ALL CAN YOU IN TH DO E CIT

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