4 HOURS IN... PARIS

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PARIS

The Latin Quarter

WORDS HANNAH BRANDLER

Soak up the culture of Paris in its oldest and most scenic quarter, from an English bookshop to gardens fit for a queen

1 SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY is independent English-language bookshop at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie is a perfect introduction to the city’s Le Bank area, known for its literary heritage. Founded by the American George Whitman in 1951 in homage to the original shop owned by Sylvia Beach, it has become a haunt for literary expats and “tumbleweeds” – the nickname given to the 30,000 writers and artists who have stayed here overnight at no cost in exchange for reading a book a day, helping at the shop and writing a one-page autobiography. It’s a charming maze, with old wooden shelves stacked aplenty, quotes drawn from their pages plastered on the walls, and nooks and crannies for peaceful reading. Head upstairs to check out the serene reading library, a piano (where Aggie the cat occasionally plays some keys), and a ‘Mirror of Love’ clad with messages from visiting bibliophiles. Plus, the shop holds free author talks, with previous guests including Zadie Smith and Michael Morpurgo. Purchase a book here, have it stamped by the bookshop as memorabilia, and begin your literary adventure at its adjoining café. A er a di cult year of lockdowns, the shop launched a ‘Friends of Shakespeare and Company’ oneyear membership – nd out more at shakespeareandcompany.com

2 LA SORBONNE Turn le and head down Rue SaintJacques until you reach Rue des Ecoles. You’re now in the heart of the Latin Quarter, which draws its name from the use of the Latin language by students in the university district during the Middle Ages. e grand edi ce facing you on the right is one of the majestic buildings of the prestigious Sorbonne university. e institution is the heir to the former University of Paris, a group of colleges set up in the 13th century which was dissolved a er the events of May 1968. Two years later, 13 universities were created, including the Sorbonne (otherwise known as Paris IV). Turn le into Rue de la Sorbonne, until you reach the plaza named a er the university. Here you’ll nd the 17th century domed Chapelle Sainte-Ursule de la Sorbonne or Sorbonne Chapel, a marvellous feat of architecture designed by Jacques Lemercier which houses the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu at its centre – the director of Sorbonne College from 1622. Ensure you view the chapel from the inner courtyard. Guided tours of the university cost €15 ($17) via visites.sorbonne@ac-paris.

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3 THE PANTHÉON Continue along Rue Saint-Jacques and Rue Victor Cousin, then turn le into Rue Sou ot and walk to the 18th century Panthéon, a striking colonnaded temple. It’s the resting place of Victor Hugo, Marie Curie, philosophers Rousseau and Voltaire, among others. Designed by architect Jacques-Germain Sou ot (hence the road name), the temple was inspired by its namesake edi ce in Rome. It is dedicated to Saint Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. A permanent exhibition details the illustrious gures buried in the crypt. On November 30, legendary artist and entertainer Josephine Baker became the rst black woman (and h woman) to be interred here. A health pass/vaccine passport is required to access the monument. Open 10001800 daily; tickets from €11.50 ($13). paris-pantheon.

4 JARDIN DE LUXEMBOURG At the other end of Rue Sou ot you’ll nd Le Jardin du Luxembourg, the beautiful oasis of the Le Bank, built in 1612 for Queen of France Marie de' Medici as a backdrop to the Palais du Luxembourg – now home to the Senate of the French Parliament. e design for the perfectly maintained and manicured 23 hectares was inspired by the Boboli Gardens in Florence, with features including orchards, a geometric-style forest, an orangerie, and more than 100 statues of famous gures dotted around. At the centre lies a large octagonal pond (the grand bassin), teeming with wooden sailboats and surrounded by locals lounging on the city’s signature green metal chairs. ere are kiosks selling snacks, drinks and ice-cream, as well as the occasional live music performance at the tree-shaded bandstand.

5 DINING IN SAINT GERMAIN Your brain may need some fuel a er so much cultural education, so head towards Saint Germain for lunch. Exit the gardens from the palace and walk up Rue de Tournon, taking a right into Rue des Quatre Vents and an immediate le down Rue Grégoire de Tours. Tucked away on this quiet street is the family-owned rustic trattoria Casa Bini, which serves authentically Italian dishes, such as carpaccio and fresh pasta (the langoustine and clam linguine is exquisite) on delicate plates with the restaurant’s name in cursive. For something French with a twist, head to Franco-Japanese Breizh Café on nearby Rue de l’Odéon for crêpes and Breton-style buckwheat galettes paired with cider; there are six other locations across Paris. casabini. ; breizhcafe.com

PARIS TOURIST OFFICE; JACQUES LEBAR; DANIEL THIERRY; STUDIO TTG; SARAH SERGENT; ROMAIN BUISSON