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PARIS The Latin Quarter WORDS HANNAH BRANDLER Soak up the culture of Paris in its oldest and most scenic quarter, from an English bookshop to gardens fit for a queen
MARCH 2022
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SHAKESPEARE AND COMPANY
This independent English-language bookshop at 37 Rue de la Bûcherie is a perfect introduction to the city’s Left Bank area, known for its literary heritage. Founded by the American George Whitman in 1951 in homage to the original shop owned by Sylvia Beach, it has become a haunt for literary expats and “tumbleweeds” – the nickname given to the 30,000 writers and artists who have stayed here overnight at no cost in exchange for reading a book a day, helping at the shop and writing a one-page autobiography. It’s a charming maze, with old wooden shelves stacked aplenty, quotes drawn from their pages plastered on the walls, and nooks and crannies for peaceful reading. Head upstairs to check out the serene reading library, a piano (where Aggie the cat occasionally
plays some keys), and a ‘Mirror of Love’ clad with messages from visiting bibliophiles. Plus, the shop holds free author talks, with previous guests including Zadie Smith and Michael Morpurgo. Purchase a book here, have it stamped by the bookshop as memorabilia, and begin your literary adventure at its adjoining café. After a difficult year of lockdowns, the shop launched a ‘Friends of Shakespeare and Company’ oneyear membership – find out more at shakespeareandcompany.com
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LA SORBONNE
Turn left and head down Rue SaintJacques until you reach Rue des Ecoles. You’re now in the heart of the Latin Quarter, which draws its name from the use of the Latin language by students in the university district during the Middle Ages. The grand
edifice facing you on the right is one of the majestic buildings of the prestigious Sorbonne university. The institution is the heir to the former University of Paris, a group of colleges set up in the 13th century which was dissolved after the events of May 1968. Two years later, 13 universities were created, including the Sorbonne (otherwise known as Paris IV). Turn left into Rue de la Sorbonne, until you reach the plaza named after the university. Here you’ll find the 17th century domed Chapelle Sainte-Ursule de la Sorbonne or Sorbonne Chapel, a marvellous feat of architecture designed by Jacques Lemercier which houses the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu at its centre – the director of Sorbonne College from 1622. Ensure you view the chapel from the inner courtyard. Guided tours of the university cost €15 ($17) via visites.sorbonne@ac-paris.fr
