MR February 2016

FEBRUARY 2016

WHITEOUT MR MOVERS: THE RISK TAKERS FAST FOOTWEAR OUTERWEAR: WEATHER OR NOT LONDON LEADS THE WAY

weatherproofvintage.com

© 2016 www.weatherproofvintage.com Showroom 212.695.7716

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MENSWEAR MOVERS OF2016

Celebrating the men and women who take risks and practice the art of reinvention.

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HOW ____ WORKS Raffi Shaya gives a glimpse into the daily life of the “King of Cashmere”

Brands took their best shot at Pitti Uomo in Florence, offering up cool, casual looks for fall/winter 2016.

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DON’T FORGET THE FASHION! As outerwear retailers

and vendors look back and think ahead, they’re focusing on the need for function and fashion.

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SOLE SEARCHING Footwear enters the fast lane.

Contents

On our cover: Belstaff COAT, This page: PITTI UOMO, 89TH EDITION 2

MR FEBRUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

16.

Also in this issue: 6 Editor’s Letter 8 Guest Editorial: 12 Ones to Watch 14 Scene 34: Fashion

Talliaorange.com 1.800.366.9363 Chicago Collective & Project LV

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ______________________________________________________________________________________________Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 710-7422 KARENA@MR-MAG.COM MANAGING EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________Brian Scott Lipton (212) 710-7459 BRIANL@MR-MAG.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Buckley (212) 710-7424 WILLIAMB@MR-MAG.COM WEB EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Stephen Garner (212) 710-7436 STEPHENG@MR-MAG.COM COPY EDITOR ______________________________________________________________________________________________________Jillian LaRochelle (212) 710-7442 JILLIANL@BUSJOUR.COM EDITOR-AT-LARGE _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Michael Macko MICHAELM@MR-MAG.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Kissel (805) 693-5838

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ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Joanne Kvaka DESIGNER __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE _______________________________________________________________________________1384 BROADWAY, 11TH FL., NEW YORK, NY 10018 (212) 686-4412 FAX: (212) 686-6821 BUSINESS OFFICE __________________________________________________________________________________________________50 DAY STREET, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 FAX: (203) 852-8175

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Wayne Drummond ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Doug Ewert_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________CEO, MEN’S WEARHOUSE Dan Farrington _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP David Fisher___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. CHAIRMAN & COO _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Mac Brighton PRESIDENT & CEO _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Britton Jones CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christine Sullivan VICE PRESIDENT, MENSWEAR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin

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MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years; Canada $63 one year, $95 two years (Canadian currency). Foreign $102, Air Mail. Single copies: U.S. $4.00; Foreign $4.00 plus postage. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). ©2016 Business Journals, Inc. Address correction requested. Postmaster send address changes to MR, P.O. Box 47370, Plymouth, MN 55447-0370. Printed in the USA.

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MR FEBRUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

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©2016 WEATHERPROOF® 212.695.7716

{ EDITORIAL }

INSPIRATION from ICONS “IT’S THE NEW GENERATION of fashion/retail execs who will ultimately create a brighter future,” declared YMA Retailer of the Year and Macy’s CMO Tim Baxter at the most recent YMA FSF Geoffrey Beene Scholarship Awards dinner. “They’re the ones who look at our business through an unfiltered lens.” He went on observe that established retailers today could use an attitude change: less “No, because…” and more “Wow! How?” Baxter expanded on this thought in a conversation we had the next day. “Retailers often say no to a new idea because it’s the easy answer. But we as an industry are in desperate need of innovation, and with innovation comes risk. Since risk is a necessary component of change, established retailers need to support new ideas, using our experience to ask the right questions. My team has heard me say it a million times: Wow! must be followed by How? “Case in point: Macy’s has been focused on activewear. In a meeting, a young exec suggested that we add Fitbits to the mix. My immediate reaction was no for numerous reasons: margin pressures, presentation requirements, past experience in electronics and other concerns. But we reconsidered and ultimately figured out how to make it work: we put Fitbits in numerous doors and they proved to be extraordinarily successful.”

Baxter believes the store of the future should be about experiences. “This could mean something as simple as adding Starbucks to more locations or featuring Nike Training Clubs where certified trainers host fitness programs, free to our shoppers. Or it could be a major event like the ‘Ugly Christmas Sweater’ dance party we hosted at Herald Square at 6:00 a.m.; the morning started with a yoga class and evolved into dancing.

Thousands of millennials were drawn to the store; you would have thought it was a nightclub.”

Also at the YMA dinner, Wholesaler of the Year honoree and Peerless USA president Ron Wurtzburger shared advice that he learned from his grandfather and mentor Ben Goldman, founder of Eagle Clothes. “He taught me basic principles for success in business: work hard, learn all aspects of the job, treasure your customers and be honest with them, make deals that are fair to both sides, support worthy charities with both money and time, and always help people when they’re down.” (Editor’s note: He also recommends a firm handshake.)

Wurtzburger then shared two anecdotes. “It was my first job working at my father’s store. A customer came in and requested a brown striped suit in a 44 long. I quickly checked the racks, didn’t see one, and told the customer we didn’t have it. Needless to say, my dad fired me… and that’s when I learned how not to sell!

“Some time later, I was working at my grandfather’s clothing factory and got a call from a retailer for a single black mohair suit. I lied and told him we just ran out, then called him back the next day and informed him I managed to find one. I did the same type of thing for the next four months; retailers would come to the factory asking to meet the wonderful kid who miraculously managed to find them the product they needed, even when it was out of stock.”

For more insights on creative selling, risk taking, and innovating in an era of disruption, check out our “Menswear Movers” feature on page 18. Wishing all of our readers an improved selling season based on creativity, risk-taking and innovation. We look forward to sharing ideas and inspiration in Vegas!

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY

What generations can learn from, and teach to, each other.

{ GUEST EDITORIAL }

A TECTONIC SHIFT Welcome to the new retail landscape.

BY DAVID J. KATZ

Overall, the fashion apparel/retail industry experienced a challenging first half, a tough third quarter... and then things got worse. It wasn’t the weather or the strength of the U.S. dollar. Nor was it product assortment or brand relevance or fear of terrorism, although these all contributed to the challenge.

2015 was the retail apparel industry’s most promotional year on record yet department and luxury stores continued to brim with too much inventory and too few shoppers. The word “disruption” is too moderate to describe what’s occurring. The retail landscape is in a state of upheaval and there will soon be a tectonic shift, after which, the new landscape will not resemble anything we’ve previously known.

The Internet’s influence on consumer spending is exceeding all expectations and the rate of that influence is increasing. Ubiquitous price transparency has escalated and allows, even encourages, consumers to be more discount- and value-oriented than ever before. Unbiased product reviews are available at the click of a button. Today, to paraphrase Sy Syms, educated consumers are no longer our best customers, they are our only customers. No longer can a brand, a vendor or a retailer exploit the ignorance of their customers; it’s now the other way around.

Not only have the path-to-purchase and products purchased changed, the planning and timing of these purchases are evolving too. “Buy now, wear now” is enabled by next-day, even same-day, availability. One can find a full assortment of seasonal brands and sizes on Amazon 365 days a year, with no advanced planning required.

Welcome to the “New Retail Landscape.” Retail and brand partners cannot successfully navigate tomorrow’s landscape with yesterday’s maps. Their strategies, tactics and infrastructure must be rebuilt.

All is not lost. Out of necessity, retailers are re-evaluating their door counts, store locations, web presences and how human, inventory and other resources are deployed to support all channels of shopping. “Stack it high, watch it fly,” resulting in stores that often resembled warehouses, will be replaced with integrated online and offline “experiences.” Stores will curate assortments with consumer-relevant points of view and new pay-and-carry models.

As for e-commerce, it is neither Savior nor Satan. Depending upon whom you believe, e-commerce is 10 to 20 percent of apparel purchases, leaving at least 80 percent of sales occurring in physical stores. The new landscape overwhelmingly includes smart devices to inform purchase decisions in new and evolving ways. Some interesting new service models are evolving. Deliv supplies same-day delivery service for retailers and merchants, while Curbside.com provides drive-thru pickup and return for any store in a mall. Increasingly, mobile devices are becoming our “go-to” source for product, brand and retailer experiences. Savvy retailers will weave the online world into real-time enhanced shopping experiences providing information on inventory, size and color assortment, features, benefits and delivery options.

New landscape retailers will offer in-store experiences that leverage technology to invisibly fulfill a customer’s desires, immediately and without friction. Expect big data, 3-D printing and artificial intelligence to enable personalization and mass customization on a dramatically increased scale and with improved customer engagement.

Add social media, smart phones, beacons, and other localized technology, and watch personalization become omnipresent (and possibly an invasion of privacy). Technology will also provide for better fit measurements, augmented and virtual reality to model clothing, and A.I. to design and select it.

The bottom line: successful new landscape retailers will offer great products, extraordinary value, remarkable experience, frictionless 24-hour shopping, immediate availability and outstanding customer service. Survival requires one or more of these attributes; industry leaders will deliver them all.

David J. Katz is EVP and chief marketing officer at Randa, a $700 million global apparel and accessories company. A graduate of the Harvard Business School, he is a public speaker and author.

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Special Advertorial Section

ITALY@

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} MADE IN STYLE ITALY

MR Magazine takes a look at the brands of Made In Italy at the MRket LV show scheduled for Monday, February 15 to Wednesday, February 17, 2016 at the The Sands Expo/Palazzo in Las Vegas.

ARALDI 1930 BOOTH 509

DI BELLO BY NIPAL

HOMAND BOOTH 409

Luxury leathergoods for men: bags,

HOMAND is the son of a new vision on menswear. A modern man, mature,

small leathergoods, and belts hand-

caught and crossing age, secure about values who naturally possesses.

made in Italy in crocodile skin and

Who wants to express its essence only through a style of dress that is ab-

other fine quality leather held to rig-

solutely contemporary without losing the essence of its roots, the good tra-

orious selection standard forming a

dition of luxury men’s tailoring as attention to details, the rules of good fitting

defined seal of quality, excellence

and above all attention to the essence of fabrics and raw materials.

and uniqueness.

BOOTH 510

The ultimate leather & shearling source.

Lambskin suede, Lambskin nappa, Goose down micro, Goose down nappa, Sheepskin jackets, we do it all.

ITALWEAR/ ANDREA BOSSI BOOTH 517

Shirts Sweaters and Shoes manufactured with high quality fabrics,yarns and materials with special emphasis on styling and details.

IMPULSO BOOTH 506

A sportive line with modern fit inspired by nautical colors: white, blue, red. A lot of details make this line of sweaters,

LUCIANO MORESCO

sweatshirts, polos, blazers, shirts, pants and windbrakers

BOOTH 407

the ideal wardrobe for leisure time and trips.

Luciano Moresco is an Italian brand based in New York City. Today Luciano Moresco dresses up the Contemporary Gentlemen with a bright and colorful total look, from the casual and fashionable jacket to the classy and elegant suit.

Special Advertorial Section

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} MADE IN STYLE ITALY

XACUS/ANDREA ZORI

MARCHESI DI COMO

BOOTH 415

BOOTH 504

The My Concept shirt can be customized. Each col-

Manufacturer of exquisite Italian neck

lar is different for height, shape and weight and it

wear,pocket squares, scarves and dress

becomes an exclusive and unique creation.

shirts MARCHESI DI COMO is a collection with great colors, blending American preppy with Italian timeless luxury.

MONTECHIARO BOOTH 506

Amazing color combinations for a traditional “Made in Italy” sweater line.

GRAN SASSO BOOTH 411

Luxury knitwear collection utilizing the finest merino, cashmere and blended yarns in solids and fancies for both men & women. Made in Italy.

DOLCEPUNTA BOOTH 405 Sartorial Ties !!!

LORENZONI BOOTH 506

High end and lightweight sweaters in fine

ITALO FERRETTI BOOTH 513

"An exceptional collection of high

gauges and fine yarns such as merino extrafine and soft cotton following the consolidated Italian tradition in the luxury niche.

end ties, bow ties and scarves in many styles and colors"

GIMO’S BOOTH 505

Gimo’s proposes a definitely young and edgy style image, shapes have been renewed in volumes, sizes and length proportions. Materials used are glove soft Nappa and superlight suedes The look is used yet sophisticated.

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

Cool for School HILLFLINT

Ivy League graduates John Shi (Dartmouth ’12) and Woody Hines (Princeton ’12) always had an issue with mainstream collegiate apparel available at the typical university bookstore. The run-of-the-mill T-shirts and hoodies offered there are often mass-produced with no real design effort put into them. With this in mind, Shi and Hines went to work on their new Ivyinspired sweater collection Hillflint.

“We wanted to make something that would really make us proud of our universities,” says Shi. “The merchandise at typical campus bookstores has no emotional connection to the heritage of the school, which really affects the fundamental purpose of this merchandise: to facilitate school pride.”

Shi figured he could create a product for his graduating class and sell it on Kickstarter for $85. He sold over 200 sweaters. So he reached out to Hines, who had previously run the style blog Men of Habit, to expand the line to Princeton. Hines hit similar numbers and today 30 percent of Dartmouth undergrads own a Hillflint product, according to the company. Now available at over 80 universities worldwide, Hillflint is giving fans and students a chance to wear something that shows true pride.

Even with this impressive growth, the duo isn’t done yet. “The goal is to find partners that authentically communicate the brand message,” says Shi. “We’re building shop-in-shops in a few department stores and looking for different ways to penetrate a market that doesn’t have many choices in terms of luxury collegiate merchandise.” –SG

Working it Out EYSOM

Exercise Your State of Mind. That’s the mission of Stan Cheung’s new active brand EYSOM, an acronym of the same meaning. In late 2014, when Cheung—who had spent 10 years working in the retail business—started to focus more on his physical and mental well-being, he couldn’t find gym clothes that fit him. So he started to tailor his own workout gear. “The idea came from a 45-minute session on the elliptical at the Greenwich Village branch of Equinox,” says Cheung. “I began to think: How can I make something for these guys that they would want to wear and feel great in?”

Now, he has collection of active and performance pieces that can be worn both casually and for intense workout sessions. (Retails from $65 to $155 for tops and $155 to $220 for bottoms.) “Every fabric used in the collection has the same level of performance as Lululemon and Nike,” Cheung says. “We just use more elevated fabrics for the quality of hand that I want to achieve and to set us apart from the pack.”

Using a minimal color palette of blacks, whites and grays, Cheung’s line resembles those found in his own closet. “I clean out my closet every six months. I take out the trendy items and keep the timeless things,” says Chueng. “That’s what inspired EYSOM: classic items that look great and feel great that a guy could wear 10 years from now.” –SG

“Classic-looking workout gear that looks great and feels great.”

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{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

New Vintage SANDAST

At age 14, Sandast founder Chris Pak packed his bags and traveled from his home in Seoul, South Korea to Los Angeles. After many years spent in the fashion industry, first in retail operations and then distribution, Pak’s long-standing interest in the leather craft, coupled with his own growing collection of bags from a local Army surplus store, spurred the creation of Sandast.

“I was collecting all of these bags from the 1930s and 1940s, and even though they looked so good, any bag that’s been sitting in a warehouse for 70 years will smell a certain way and feel a certain way,” he says. “I wanted to create the same aesthetic using new material.”

So he chose hardware from Italy and France, zippers from Switzerland and leather sourced from Horween in Chicago, one of the oldest tanneries in America. Moreover, each Sandast bag is stitched from individually distressed pieces of leather. “Every cut piece is antiqued by hand. We apply oil and wax, we burnish them and we add patina,” adds Pak. “Our leather craftsmen use these techniques to achieve what we call ‘a new American vintage.’”

Right now, 80 percent of Pak’s retail business is in Asia, but his focus now is on North America. “In Japan we’re sold at Isetan and Hankyu Hanshin. I want to make sure distribution in the U.S. is similarly well protected,” he notes. “Whoever I work with I want to support them. In the long run, I want to make sure they’re successful with the brand. That’s been my philosophy from day one.” —WB

“I wanted to create a [vintage] aesthetic using new material.”

Mason Line

THOMAS MASON ACCESSORIES

“We want to transform the obligation of wearing a tie into an irresistable pleasure.”

The best of English history, Italian fabrics and modern style come together to add flair to the 21st-century man’s wardrobe thanks to Thomas Mason Accessories.

This two-year-old division of the Albini Group may be named after the 18thcentury shirting company, but it produces gorgeous ties, bow ties, pocket squares, and scarves for the 21st-century consumer, all of which are handmade in Italy using the finest silks, linen, cotton and cashmere. (Prices begin at $85 retail).

“This collection is for the modern gentleman who appreciates the most precious raw materials,” says Tim Neckbroeck of the Albini Group.

Among the line’s many standouts are a capsule collection of ties featuring tartans, herringbones and knops, all drawing their inspiration from the world of jackets; yarn-dyed knitted denim ties; and bow ties in sophisticated colors with a delave effect, evoking the mood and spirit of the 1970s.

“Our idea is to offer accessories that could match a perfect, classic suit, but that could also look great with a more casual deconstructed jacket,” says Neckbroeck.

“In fact, we want to transform the obligation of wearing a tie into an irresistible pleasure.”

So far, Neckbroeck’s strategy appears to be working. Barneys, the first U.S. retailer to pick up the line, has ordered additional product for spring/summer.

“We keep evaluating the premium/luxury department store market to find the best environment for our products,” he notes. “We believe we are following a good path at the moment and we are sure to keep evolving.” —BSL

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2016 MR

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{ VEGAS SCENE }

CHOW DOWN

Whether it’s your first time in Las Vegas or your 40th, there’s always someplace new! For those jet-setting souls traveling to this season’s trade shows, here are a few salivating suggestions to enhance your latest trip.

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON 1. RIVEA/SKYFALL LOUNGE: Few names in the culinary world engender as much excitement as Alain Ducasse, the Michelinstarred chef who is overseeing these two recent additions to the Delano Las Vegas. The Mediterranean-inspired menu at Rivea, which boasts 180-degree views of the Strip, ranges from small plates such as a Provencal caponata flavored with capers and pine nuts or marinated seabream bursting with citrus to entrees such as the indulgent lobster with purple artichokes or braised duck breast with Biguarde sauce and nougat. At the adjacent Skyfall Lounge, you can select from a list of tantalizing signature cocktails including the effervescent Climbin’ High and the aptly-named Golden Hour (both made with Alain Ducasse Champagne) to one of over 1,200 wines. Drink it in!

1.

So, eat, drink, be merry.

Oh, and get lucky too!

2.

3.

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MR FEBRUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

2. HARVEST: The national farm-to-table craze hasn’t been overlooked in Sin City, thanks to local superstar chef Roy Ellamar’s newest eatery in the tony Bellagio Hotel Spa Tower. A locally sourced Farmer’s Salad pairs apple-smoked sunchokes and carrots with a sharp goat cheese vinaigrette, while naturally raised pork is featured in the Grilled Pork Cheek and there is plenty of 100-percent grass-fed natural beef to please even the most demanding carnivore. But Ellamar’s greatest creation might be his tableside “Snack Wagon,” which changes daily.

Waiters my be trotting around everything from a smoked salmon belly dip to hangar steak tartare, to Agedashi tofu enhanced with ham dashi and trout roe. One constant on the cart will be addictive naan (Indian bread) served with a broccoli raab pesto. Yum! 3. MR CHOW: A successful restaurateur and a highly regarded designer, Michael Chow is a man who cares about details, and the mastermind behind the famed Mr. Chow group of Chinese restaurants, the latest of which has just opened in high style at Caesar’s Palace.

After entering through a stunning ground-floor champagne lounge, you’ll be whisked by private elevator to the 1,600-square-foot space featuring a plexiglass-lined dining room, a 150-lily floral arrangement, spectacular terraces and a one-ofa-kind kinetic sculpture called “The Moon,” which is suspended from a 60-foot dome. And then there’s the food, which includes many beloved selections that fanciers of Mr. Chow have enjoyed for 40 years: roasted-to-order Beijing duck, green prawns, turnip puffs, Ma mignon and Mr. Chow Noodles. And leave room for fabulous desserts, such as Grand Marnier roasted oranges, all served from a custom-made Christofle trolley. Live it up!

ZANETTI Zanetti.com

{ 2016 MENSWEAR MOVERS }

Menswear MOVERS OF 2016 MR CELEBRATES THE ART OF REINVENTION

What we love most about the menswear business: the eclectic cast of characters, those talented execs who create new opportunities, large and small, despite the rapidly changing retail environment. In an era of unprecedented disruption, transformation and reinvention, we salute the Risk Takers, the Iconoclasts, the Visionaries, the Fighters in the Trenches, and all those with the wisdom and the courage to embrace change.

DAVID KATZ EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, RANDA

Industry Geek There are few if any private companies in our industry that generate more than $700 million in sales (with virtually no debt), and few corporate execs as smart as David Katz. Describing 2015 as a “transformative year,” Katz talks about some notable Randa initiatives: creating Ryan Seacrest Distinction, a move that “propelled us beyond third-party accessory brands into the wider world of apparel, brand management, retail architecture and social media;” investing in its infrastructure (“more in the past three years than in the preceding 103 years combined”); implementing leadership development programs and formal town hall meetings that create strong managers and generate great ideas at all levels; and combining operating divisions for a unified approach to order management, fulfillment, reporting, analysis, etc.

Although 2015 was a strong year for Randa, Katz confides that they didn’t get everything right: “We launched cold weather accessories for Levi’s, Dockers and Seacrest during the warmest winter on record.”

For 2016, Randa is building all-new platforms to accelerate the process of testing and implementing new ideas. “We need to speed it up: to test, analyze and roll-out more quickly. As a company, we can do this via our powerful service organization (4,000 merchandisers that service 10,000 stores). They’re doing consumer insight studies, making us three to six months faster than we were two years ago. As a company, we are hyper-analytical; there’s nothing we do that doesn’t get measured.”

Case in point: Katz (a self-proclaimed “geek”) demonstrates his computer-operated model “hand” (that he concocted in five minutes) that in-

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MR FEBRUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

dicates via vibration in the fingertips when a glove wearer receives a text or call from a cell phone in a coat pocket. “We can do the technology with no problem; the trick will be to test whether consumers find it valuable and how much more they’re willing to pay for it.” —KAG

TOM FORD DESIGNER

Man of the World Where in the world is Tom Ford?

The jet-setting fashion designer knows how to keep us guessing; not many of us realized that not only would he be in Los Angeles on January 10, but that he’d be on the red carpet of The Golden Globes with date Julianne Moore, and then again on the Globes stage co-presenting with Lady Gaga (who starred in his recent fashion video).

And as good as those ladies looked (especially Moore, who was wearing one of his most glorious creations), Ford looked even better in a tuxedo that fit him like a glove.

Equally important to the fashionable set is that one can never be sure where Ford will be when it’s time to present a new menswear collection. This season, he rather suddenly switched from London to New York, where he’s doing select presentations instead of a major runway show on February 18.

While Ford certainly understands the importance of the press, he wants to make sure they really see and feel every detail of his clothes.

Most of all, he’s spoken of how important it is that the consumer get the message behind his clothes, and not worry so much about the medium in which they receive it. —BSL

{ 2016 MENSWEAR MOVERS }

BOB MITCHELL CO-CEO, MITCHELLS STORES

Marathon Mode Although some were shocked when Mitchells bought Mario’s in 2015, merging two of the most well respected specialty stores in the country and creating a $150 million specialty apparel powerhouse, others were hardly surprised.

“In a slow growth environment, the only way to expand is through acquisitions,” Mitchell asserts. “We’re not done yet, but at the moment, we’re focused on our existing businesses, on our 400-plus associates, and on gradually integrating Mario’s.”

The challenge of blending two disparate cultures is a bit daunting, even for experts. “The success of Mario’s is its local orientation. The Pacific Northwest has its own nuance—in assortments and in attitudes.

We don’t want to lose this, even while incorporating certain components into our model. Our ultimate Mitchells goal: to create the finest collection of independent local specialty stores in the world.”

His secrets to family harmony: “A high level of communication, clearly defined job descriptions and definite accountability. Consultants call it ‘governance’—clear career paths and reporting lines for both family and non-family executives.”

Moreover, Mitchell acknowledges that their “cash is king” strategy allows the family to make some bold moves when it needs to. That said, he maintains “today’s game is much more complex and challenging than it used to be: we have a millennial generation that shops very differently plus we’re competing with our own luxury brands. For those who don’t truly love it, this could be a good time to get out.”—KAG

DURAND GUION FASHION DIRECTOR, MACY’S

Perfecting Partnerships As the longtime men’s fashion director of Macy’s, Durand Guion defines his biggest challenge as “finding newness that is relevant for our consumer in a market environment that is currently lacking in true product/trend innovation.

Sometimes putting a new spin on the classics is the best answer.”

One way Guion did that in 2015 was by collaborating with one of the entertainment world’s most recognizable names. “I think my finest achievement last year was working with the entire team on the launch

of Ryan Seacrest Distinction,” says Guion. “Ryan is such a dynamic and inspiring force and it has been exciting to be a part of his brand personality extension. “ While Macy’s has certainly struggled financially in the past few months, the fact that men know the department store is one place they can find so many of their favorite lines under one roof is one reason most experts believe the store will end up just fine. “The continued partnership with our men's merchants to identify the key must-haves and trends of the season and bringing those to life for our menswear consumers is one of the things I’m proudest of professionally,” he says. “I never stop being a student of this business. I never stop learning. Staying engaged 24/7 has been my guiding lens.”

Doing that means Guion will be working harder than ever in 2016.

“My biggest goals this year are to keep our mens\millennial consumer interested in an elevated level of trend and fashion, to keep making sure we continue to demystify the concept of looking your best, and making sure our guidance is accessible and digestible.” -”—BSL

GEORGE ZIMMER FOUNDER, GENERATION TUX/ZTAILORS

Digital Debutant Whoever coined the phrase “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks” has clearly never met George Zimmer. The 67-year-old founder of retail behemoth Men’s Wearhouse could have easily spent the rest of his life lolling on the beach after leaving that company in 2013. Or at the very least, he could have simply reentered the familiar world of brick and mortar.

But the ever-surprising Zimmer chose instead to launch not one, but two, online businesses in 2015: Generation Tux, which provides suits and formalwear to men with a click or two of the mouse, and zTailors.com, which allows men to find one of 600 accomplished tailors around the country with just a tap on their smartphone.

“Moving into digital was a whole new ballgame for me,” admits Zimmer. “The way it used to go when someone wanted to start a business is a little seed money to start, followed by expansion that reflected profits. That’s what I did with Men’s Wearhouse. When I launched Generation Tux and zTailors, I had to do things differently, and when I decided to launch zTailors, I needed to learn how to run a business based entirely on technology, which I didn’t know anything about.”

While cynics might think Zimmer was looking just for a way to increase his bank account, he says the almighty dollar is never his prime motivation. “Desire is the engine of life; you have to be passionate about what you do,” says Zimmer.

“I am also committed to building businesses based on the stakeholder, not the shareholder. Since the day I started Men’s Wearhouse to

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{ 2016 MENSWEAR MOVERS } the moment when I launched zTailors and Generation Tux, I have always made my workforce and my customers an absolute priority.”

Of course, as anyone who’s met Zimmer knows, his next step could be forward or backward. (He’s offered to run the failing Men’s Wearhouse once again.) But he’s not planning to let his new babies walk without him watching. In fact, he expects them to be running quickly. “In 2016, we’re going to take Generation Tux to the next level: my goal is to exceed all expectations for the brand, making it the premiere online suit and tuxedo rental service out there.” —BSL

RON WURTZBURGER PRESIDENT, PEERLESS CLOTHING USA

The Art of the Sale One doesn’t become the world’s largest maker of tailored clothing by accident, nor does it happen by luck. Ron Wurtzburger, surely our industry’s quintessential salesman, exudes a rare combination of integrity, street smarts, and charm. “It’s about putting our customers first, helping them out in good times and bad, even sending them to competitors if we don’t make what they need. Once you build trust, it’s not about selling.”

With a vast stable of designer and celebrity brands (Ralph, Calvin, Donna, Varvatos, Kors, Sean John, Izod, Van Heusen, Todd Snyder, HSM, Shaq, Ryan Seacrest, Chaps, Andrew Fezza, Andrew Marc, Tallia Orange, and most recently Michael Strahan), Peerless owns such a dominant share of the suit market that one would think Wurtzberger could finally relax a bit. “We’re working on securing more names,” he assures us. “If we stand still, they’ll catch us.”

(Although this ominous “they” remains a mystery: most clothing competitors are long gone.)

Other Wurtzburger success secrets: “We pay careful attention to every aspect of the business, we’re bringing in young people with a talent for technology, and we’re constantly seeking advice.” He especially credits his team of loyal employees. “Many (still in their 40s) have been here for 15 to20 years. They’re here at 7:30 a.m. and they’re here at 8:00 p.m. I don’t have to tell them: they do what’s needed.”

New Peerless initiatives for 2016 include the launch of a luxury

clothing collection geared to better specialty stores, “offering them extra margin on the finest fabrics in the world” and new offerings in formalwear separates.

But Wurtzberger’s legacy, he hopes, will be not the number of suits sold (“anyone can sell a suit”) but rather the number of people in need who have benefited from his philanthropy. (With Macy’s Tim Baxter, he recently shattered the fundraising record at YMA’s January dinner with over $4 million in donations.) “I’m lucky to participate in every industry event. For me personally, I’m channeling my grandfather, who was highly recognized for his philanthropy. If I can encourage industry colleagues to dig a little deeper, I’ve done what matters.” —KAG

LARRY ROSEN CHAIRMAN AND CEO, HARRY ROSEN

Dominating a Market There’s no way Larry Rosen was going to lie down and take any punches just because a barrage of U.S.-based stores (including Saks and Nordstrom) suddenly decided to invade Canada. Instead, he took an offensive stance, investing $100 million in store renovations for the country’s beloved Harry Rosen chain.

The result: a powerhouse group of 17 luxury menswear stores across Canada , a strong web business and 700-plus employees.

“We did a record number of projects in 2015, including renovating 100,000 square feet of space in four stores,” he says. “Our goal was to target a younger fashion customer as well as a classically elegant shopper. Our foundation is luxury brands like Tom Ford, Zegna, Cucinelli, Varvatos, Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani Black Label: brands that require particular environments to reflect their unique sensibilities.”

Looking ahead, Rosen will continue to renovate (“although we’re running out of stores to re-do”) and is looking at adding locations.

Most importantly, he’s pioneering a new online concept that integrates highly trained sales associates into an omni-channel role.

“We’re launching this in all stores: every regular customer will have access to a fully trained sales associate online in real time. This will revolutionize the business.” —KAG

We’re working on securing more names. If we stand still, they’ll catch us.”

– Ron Wurtzberger, Peerless Clothing USA 20

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IMRAD AMED FOUNDER, BUSINESS OF FASHION

Nose for News Just his website’s very name, Business of Fashion, lets you know that Imran Amed was interested in more than just showing pretty pictures when he first conceived of his website back in 2007. And in the intervening eight years, BOF’s editor-in-chief has created a highly respected media platform for informing the fashion community about its latest developments, as well as analyzing it from both the creative and commercial sides of view. His interest in the business aspect of the industry is hardly surprising, given that he has an MBA from Harvard Business School and is a former management consultant at McKinsey & Co. (He was also smart enough in 2013 to corral an impressive group of minority investors, including LVMH, to help him move BOF to the next level). But he certainly knows the difference between IBM and YSL, and he has sat on international fashion juries at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Belgium, the Festival d’Hyeres in France, and Pitti Uomo in Italy (where he was on the panel for the recently announced Menswear International Woolmark Prize). —BSL

MORRIS GOLDFARB CHAIRMAN, CEO, G-III APPAREL GROUP

The Art of the Deal From his father Aron Goldfarb, a Holocaust survivor who founded a little coat company when he immigrated to NYC in 1956, Morris Goldfarb inherited his work ethic, his chutzpah and his generous spirit.

Joining his dad in the business in 1972, he ultimately learned the value of cash, and the art of risk-taking.

“We didn’t have money to buy a brand so we licensed one. Eventually, when we had enough money to buy, we did. Today, with virtually no debt, the rules have changed: we can make a billion-dollar acquisition tomorrow if we choose to.”

With a business model that incorporates multiple categories, multiple designers, wholesale and retail, men’s and women’s, Goldfarb observes that “our model is so complicated that few can duplicate it.”

Asked how he decides what to acquire, he explains that it’s based on

intuition, experience and sound business sense. “When we bought Vilebrequin, we knew Wall Street would hate it. What do we know about luxury swimwear, they asked (which they also asked about dresses, shoes and everything else we’ve acquired). But we knew it was the right move for us: we paid a premium and the stock went up 20 percent that day. “ And, says Goldfarb, even with no acquisitions in 2015, G-III’s organic growth this past year “was greater than our total volume seven or eight years ago.”

A strong believer in cultivating talent, Goldfarb maintains that this asset is highly undervalued in today’s marketplace. “We have access to the world’s best talent, right at our doorstep, every minute of every day.

Unfortunately, our industry is over-populated with private equity firms: rather than nurture talent for the future, they prefer to leverage and get out fast. Our goal is to buy lifestyle brands, find the right leadership for each, and help them grow.” —KAG

FERN MALLIS CONSULTANT

From Council to Counsel In 1993, Fern Mallis created what we now know as New York Fashion Week. She served as executive director of The Council of Fashion Designers of America for 10 years, was a founding board member of Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS (DIFFA), has served on the board of the Partnership for the Homeless, is on the board of directors for Robert Graham in New York and Tara Jewels in Mumbai, India. She also helped create The Heart Truth’s Red Dress Initiative for Women’s Heart Disease and is a consultant to Charleston Fashion Week and Seoul Fashion Week.

Mallis has also started her own international fashion and design consultancy, and hosts a popular conversation series at the 92nd Street Y entitled “Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis”, where she has interviewed fashion heavyweights such as Bill Cunningham, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford, Michael Kors, and Marc Jacobs. This past April, she put those interviews together in a book entitled Fashion Lives: Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis.

When asked about her second act and how she enjoys it, Mallis responds: “I couldn’t be happier with this phase of my life and career. My ‘Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis’ series continues in its fifth year and the book got extraordinary reviews and is now in its second printing. The Wall Street Journal selected it as one of the four best fashion books of 2015.”

When asked if she ever misses running Fashion Week, she replies: “I had a blast this past year traveling all over the country doing book signings and talks and this continues through 2016. I do not miss running Fashion Week, although I still enjoy going to the shows and support all my pals every season.” —MM

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OLIVIA KIM

STEPHEN KOLB

VICE PRESIDENT OF CREATIVE PROJECTS NORDSTROM

PRESIDENT, CFDA

Man with a Mission

Pop-In Star Hiring Olivia Kim wasn’t business as usual for Nordstrom, the century-old Seattle-based department store with more than 100 locations across the country.

In 2013, she was brought on to be vice president of creative projects fresh from downtowncool retailer Opening Ceremony and quickly created PopIn@Nordstrom, an ongoing series of monthly themed pop-up shops meant to showcase worthy designers and expose consumers to something new and embrace Nordstrom’s exploratory heritage.

“I love these branded Pop-In shops because we can present the world of that brand in a way that our customer may not have seen before,” says Kim. “With our multi-branded themed shops we curate the best brands and share that through our own lens.”

Kim has worked with many notable brands for her Pop-Ins, including Nike, Warby Parker, Opening Ceremony and even the Italian Trade Commission. Now, with 2016 in full swing, she is taking a dive into exploring menswear with the launch of a dedicated Pop-In for menswear brands. “Heartbreakers II launches on February 12th and I’m super excited about this one,” says Kim. “Its part two of a shop we launched two years ago, which was timed along with Valentine’s Day. We’re excited to bring it back and introduce new brands for men, including Outerknown, Long Journey, Patrik Ervell, Tim Coppens, Cottweiler, Stutterheim and so many others.”

Kim doesn’t take all of the credit. “It’s no secret, but I have a really amazing team,” she adds. “When you’re a small team it’s easier to be nimble and change directions quickly, and to get everyone on board on the same page. Their dedication is unmatchable. I’m super-grateful for all of them daily.”

And Nordstrom is equally grateful to have someone like Kim on its side, since she is bringing in a new costumer base. “She brings a skill set, a level of experiences and taste level that was not necessarily what we had here,” Pete Nordstrom, the store’s co-president, told The New York Times. —SG

As CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Stephen Kolb is a man with a mission and that mission is menswear. Last season he started NYFW: Men’s, which this month will have its sophomore season. While Kolb said that the idea of a standalone men’s fashion week had been around for a while, he made it a reality. “When I started [10 years ago], I had many conversations with menswear designers, including John Varvatos, who would always say, ‘Why isn’t there a men’s fashion week?’ There was always the question and the interest, but there was never really a groundswell to drive it and make it happen.”

Two years ago, the topic came up again and Kolb pulled together some industry heavyweights and brainstormed the advantages of creating a fashion week for men. “It really was the industry—the designers, the editors, the buyers—who asked for it,” he says. —MM

KELLY SLATER FOUNDER, OUTERKNOWN

Surfing to Success Kelly Slater, an 11-time World Surf League champion, two-time XGame gold medalist and a veteran professional surfer, is a hard man to pin down. Just last year, Slater chose not to renew his sponsorship contract with Quiksilver, after over two decades as the face of the troubled surfwear giant. Instead, he enlisted designer John Moore (the brains behind multi-million dollar brand Hollister) to help launch his own brand, Outerknown, as creative director.

With our multi-branded themed shops we curate the best brands and share that through our own lens.” – Olivia Kim, Nordstrom 22

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{ 2016 MENSWEAR MOVERS } This West Coast-based menswear brand has an understated approach to design with a huge emphasis on sustainability. The concept aims to blend style, function and sustainability with the intent to protect the Earth’s natural resources and inspire change within the men’s fashion and apparel industry. This business philosophy proved so appealing, it led to an investment in Outerknown by Kering, a Paris-based company that also invested in Gucci, Brioni and Bottega Veneta.

“I created Outerknown to smash the formula, to lift the lid on the traditional supply chain, and prove that you can actually produce great looking menswear in a sustainable way,” said Slater, when the brand launched. “The last two years have been a huge eye-opener for me. It’s clear now just how challenging it is for any brand to put sustainability at the forefront of their business and I’m proud that we’re one of the few taking the lead.” —SG

STEFAN LARSSON CEO, RALPH LAUREN CORP.

Business Builder Back in September, Ralph Lauren shook the fashion world with his announcement that he was stepping down as CEO of his eponymous company. Lauren’s replacement, Stefan Larsson, took over in November as company CEO. While we haven’t heard much from the new leader since he assumed his position, the choice of Larsson, a former global president of Old Navy and a veteran of Swedish retailer Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), should make for an interesting year ahead.

In a September New York Times feature, Larsson was mentioned as having made his name in budget-conscious mass-retailing, adding that “though even at those mass brands, Larsson’s success has been built on fostering a level of attention to design that sellers of low-end, familyoriented apparel had previously not put into their wares.”

Under his leadership, Old Navy enjoyed three consecutive years of profitable growth, adding $1 billion in sales. Previously, in 15 years at H&M, Larsson was part of the team that grew sales from $3 billion to $17 billion and expanded the company’s operations to 44 countries.

According to a recent feature in Forbes, Larsson’s track record at H&M and success in powering growth at Old Navy were the result of supply chain skills and expertise in how the fast-fashion process works.

He was able to apply a hybrid version at Old Navy, increasing speed to market, thus turning out new lines with great efficiency.

“He’s unique as a man, a man who’s capable of building businesses and growing companies,” Ralph Lauren told the Times referring to Larsson. “But at the same time he’s sensitive to people’s feelings.” —SG

ROBERT STOCK FOUNDER, ROBERT GRAHAM

Master of Reinvention Robert Stock has had quite a run.

From founding Country Britches in 1966 to launching Chaps with Ralph Lauren to creating Country Roads to launching Robert Stock designs (ultimately a $100 million business in washed silk shirts) to creating Robert Graham sportswear in 2001, no one has reinvented himself as often, or as well, as Stock. And in all his incarnations, he’s shown remarkable staying power.

While his eclectic Robert Graham collection is still going strong, this Coty award-winning designer, encouraged by vice president of sales Sean Hieter, even recently added a luxury collection called R for upscale stores. “I’ve always used Italian fabrics but never manufactured in Italy,” says Stock. “This is sophisticated luxury product, handcrafted with just a bit of whimsy. Whereas Robert Graham is a shout, R is a whisper.”

Asked what sustains his successful track record, Stock is thoughtful.

“My work is like a hobby to me. I wake up every morning challenging myself. I’m lucky I have history and experience behind me: I’ve seen the good, the bad and the ugly, which really helps.” —KAG

GILDO ZEGNA CEO, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Defining a Dynasty Nearly 20 years ago, Gildo Zegna took the reins of his family-run business (started over a century ago by his great-grandfather) and transformed it into the largest men’s clothing maker in the market. But it isn’t just its luxurious clothes that makes this Italian brand so special.

Whether or not your customer’s clothing has Zegna labels stitched into them, there is still a good chance that they’re wearing Zegna fabrics, some of the most innovative ones known to man. “Our dedication to fabric innovation and our pioneering spirt is the key to our success,” he told MR. And it’s not just in the world of fashion where Gildo practices thinking outside the box: Zegna is known for its artistic endeavors under their

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{ 2016 MENSWEAR MOVERS } ZegnArt entity, environmental activities under Oasi Zegna, and other philanthropic projects under Fondazione Zegna. Most of all, there’s Gildo’s devotion to his family, past, present and future. “I am constantly driven by the legacy I received from my father and the vision I would like to transmit to the next generation of the Zegna family.” —WB

MAXWELL OSBORNE & DAO-YI CHOW

But when Bailey joined forces with CEO Angela Ahrendts, the journey back and beyond began. While innovative marketing and brand management have played a big part in the brand’s exit from the ashes, Bailey’s consistently exciting collections that manage to perpetually push the envelope while keeping a solid foot in the brand’s heritage are the proof in the pudding. Burberry is now one of the most aspirational brands in the world, and Bailey is one of the biggest influences on modern menswear. —WB

DESIGNERS, PUBLIC SCHOOL

JOHN BARTLETT

Winning Team

DESIGNER

Animal Activist How do you follow up winning the design trifecta of the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award, the International Woolmark Prize and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund? You create the biggest trend happening in menswear right now. Whether you call it “Streetwear” or “Tailored Casual” it’s the influx of sport and technical fabrics and details into modern sportswear that has become their signature. The designers are quite on a roll, not only with their upscale Public School line, but as creative directors of DKNY (although their first collection was strictly women’s). Who knows who esle might snatch them up? As Cathy Horyn of New York Magazine’s “The Cut” famously said: “Erstwhile rapper-designers could learn a lot from Chow and Osbourne.” Truer words were never written. —MM

CHRISTOPHER BAILEY CEO, CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER, BURBERRY

Back from the Brink Christopher Bailey can be credited as one of a handful of designers who have reinvented heritage fashion houses and turned them into global empires for the 21st century.

Like Alber Elbaz at Lanvin before him, and Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino more recently, Bailey joined Burberry 10 years ago when the brand was in a very bad place. As their signature plaid was pirated across the world and fakes flooded the market, there was a moment when the damage that had been done seemed irreparable. Even Burberry itself endorsed cheap products in the form of poorly considered licenses, and the brand became synonymous with downmarket posers.

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When John Bartlett started his eponymous collection in 1991 after graduating both Harvard and The Fashion Institute of Technology, little did he know that he was paving the way for spectacles of overt hypermasculinity where the viewer didn't have to wonder "Is he or isn't he?"

He absolutely was.

Bartlett was once famously quoted in The Washington Post saying "People will say, 'Oh, your clothes are too gay.' but I've never seen two shirts cruising each other." Prior to John Bartlett we had not seen the objectification of the male form on the runway, done in elaborately staged theatrical productions. Bartlett drew upon Jean Genet, Tom of Finland and The Deer Hunter as just some of his inspiration. Who can forget his "Voo-Doo" collection in which he used all black models and had a live chicken strutting down the runway? Without John Bartlett there would be no Tom Ford or Thom Browne.

But after more than a decade of mega-success, Bartlett, whose signature style of rugged American authenticity earned him two Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) awards, went on a sabbatical in 2003 to Southeast Asia and returned as a practicing Buddhist. It was the first step in a new chapter for the designer, who soon became a vegan, stopped wearing leather, and began to practice what he preached in his own collections.

In 2011, Bartlett was chosen as a winner of the CFDA/Lexus Eco Fashion Award. Soon after, the designer debuted the first eco-luxe, 100 percent cruelty-free menswear collection at New York Fashion Week in February of 2012. “The fashion industry has a blind spot when it comes to animals used for clothing and I hope that I can help to raise awareness and help promote compassion and alternatives to traditional animal-based fabrications,” says Bartlett.

Currently, Bartlett is in partnership with The Bon-Ton Stores, where he designs John Bartlett Consensus and John Bartlett Statements, two collections which offer all components of a man’s wardrobe, including sportswear, tailored clothing, underwear, loungewear and accessories.

The collaboration with Bon-Ton also includes John Bartlett Pet; a percentage of its sales goes towards helping homeless shelter dogs through The Tiny Tim Rescue Fund”, named after his beloved dog. —MM

Contemporary Menswear Classic Fits

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TODD SNYDER

NISH DE GRUITER

DESIGNER

VICE PRESIDENT, SUITSUPPLY

Brand Builder

Going Vertical

Todd Snyder is having a very good year! His successful international business was sold to American Eagle for $11 million, he’s launching a women’s collection with Champion to match his successful menswear collaboration; and he will officially be closing NYFW: Men’s on February 4. Still, Snyder believes he has a lot to look forward to in 2016 “I want to continue building my brand and opening more stores, incluing a Todd Snyder store in Yokaham, Japan, a New York Flagship for Todd Snyder and possibly another Tailgate store.” And like many successful entrepreneurs, Snyder knows he’s more than a one-man band, no matter how loud the applause gets. “I have the best team in the industry,” —MM

Suitsupply’s vice president, 31-yearold Nish de Gruiter, has quickly become one of the major players in the tailored clothing world. He was instrumental in bringing this innovative Dutch vertical retailer to the U.S., with the opening of its flagship store in New York City’s SoHo neighborhood in June 2011. Since then, Suitsupply’s winning formula of utilizing fine Italian fabrics, European styling, great in-store customer service and an attainable price has changed the game of men’s tailored clothing.

Five years after the company’s U.S. debut, Suitsupply has 17 stores across the country, as well as shops at Stanley Korshak and Bloomingdale’s. In 2016, the company plans to open up to 10 more new locations, including Greenwich, Connecticut, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Tampa, Florida. Meanwhile, the company’s online business is still a major component to its success, making up about 25 percent of the company’s revenue.

“The secret to our business growth is that we focus and try to excel at one thing,” says de Gruiter. “We spend time and energy making a very nice product so people will come to us, instead of us having to be in the high street. The concept works.” —SG

DESIGNER

A Lesson in Athluxury Italian designer Brunello Cucinelli is a true pioneer of what is commonly called athleisure, but his line can more accurately described as “athluxury”. Cucinelli’s approach to effortless luxury has established that style of sportswear in the most upscale and tasteful way, using exquisite Italian fabrics and merchandised so precisely that the “Cucinelli look” has suffused throughout the market and is now distilled into countless other less upscale brands. But a mere flip through his seasonal look books or a trip to one of his showrooms is evidence enough that this brand always does it better than the rest. Before Cucinelli, denim jackets were passe; but since Cucinelli championed the item, people layer denim jackets under their sportcoats as if they’re afraid the look is going out of style. And it isn’t. That perfect equilibrium between denim jacket or chambray shirt under a cashmere/silk blend blazer has opened up the idea of wearing tailored clothing to the broadest audience. As Brunello says, “no one wants to wear their father’s suit” and what better way to turn a suit into a cool, contemporary statement than mixing it with something unexpected. —WB

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CAROL LIM AND HUMBERTO LEON FOUNDERS, OPENING CEREMONY

The Art of the Concept Shop In 2002, when Carol Lim and Humberto Leon decided to leave their jobs at Bally and Burberry respectively, they cobbled together $10,000 each and secured an equal line of credit for their first store. That shop, on a forgotten corner near New York City’s Chinatown, was filled with a high/low edit of merchandise from the U.S. and Hong Kong, the first country they chose in an ongoing Olympics-inspired methodology of choosing merchandise. Now, not only do customers still flock to their innovative concept shops in such locations as NYC’s iconic Ace Hotel, Los Angeles and Tokyo, but Opening Ceremony’s GETTY 1

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KEN DUANE CEO, HERITAGE BRANDS, PVH

Turnaround Specialist Most would say implementing change at a huge multi-national corporation is like turning a big ship: a painfully slow process. But PVH’s Ken Duane is a master. “Our most recent accomplishment is the turnaround of the underwear group (internally known as TUG, which includes Calvin, Tommy, Kors, Olga) for which I totally credit Cheryl Abel-Hodges, division president. We had to virtually close distribution in Europe, start over, and totally clean it up here. We invested in the brands and business for this group is healthier now than ever.”

Also doing well: the dress shirt division under David Sirkin, thanks in part to the successful launch of flex collar technology and other initiatives in stretch, fit, color and pattern. “The trick here was controlling inventories: by decreasing supply, we’ve seen a major turnaround, bringing us back to historical rates of profit.”

After starting his career at Burberry, Hugo Boss and Nautica, Duane was personally recruited to PVH by then-chairman Bruce Klatsky. “The company had just bought Izod, its first sportswear business. PVH has always been open to opportunities and we’ve got our eye on a few things.

Whether they’ll be transformational acquisitions like Calvin and Tommy or bolt-ons like Superba, we’ll let the economic turmoil settle a bit and then go for it.” —KAG

ILARIA URBANATI STYLIST

Hollywood’s Crown Jewel Bradley Cooper, Ryan Reynolds, Chris Evans, James Marsden, Armie Hammer — the list goes on. What sounds like the starring cast for one of the most amazing movies of 2016 is actually just a partial client list of stylist Ilaria Urbanati. Who started the trend of men wearing jewel-colored suits?

She did, by putting Cooper, Hammer and Marsden in a whole crayola box of sartorial splendor on the red carpets.

So the next time a customer (or his wife) comes in to your store with a celebrity swipe and says “I want this,” you know who you have to credit. —MM ERIC RAY DAVIDSON

collections of men’s and women’s wear are wholesaled to over 400 retailers including some of the world’s most upscale department stores, such as Bergdorf Goodman and Barneys. (The pair is also now creative directors of luxury brand Kenzo.)

With Lim and Leon’s keen eye for detail and their dedication to creativity, it’s no wonder that Opening Ceremony is always a hot ticket when presented at fashion weeks, has become a go-to brand for the cool kids, and continually partners with an ever-expanding list of innovative collaborators such as Topshop, Maison Martin Margiela and Fossil. Not every brand can remain as fresh and as exciting as it’s ever been, but Opening Ceremony is the exception to the rule. —WB

RICHARD BAKER GOVERNOR, EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN, HBC

Department Store Superpower Department store companies seem to end up in the news on a daily basis lately, but no chain dominated the headlines – or trumpeted such good news – for the past few months as Canada’s Hudson’s Bay Company, led by 50-year-old American Richard Baker.

Indeed, one only needs to look at HBC’s holding to see the absolute truth of that statement. Under Baker’s guidance, HBC now owns 480 stores throughout the world (a total that will grow by over 100 in 2016) including Canada’s Hudson’s Bay, Saks Fifth Avenue and its offprice counterpart OFF 5th, Lord & Taylor and its recently-launched off-

By decreasing supply, we’ve seen a major turnaround, bringing us back to historical rates of profit.” – Ken Duane, PVH

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price Find@Lord & Taylor, GALERIA Kaufhof and SportArena in Germany and Galeria INNO in Belgium.

And that doesn’t count its most recent purchase, etailer Gilt Groupe (for which it paid $250 million), a favorite of the fashionista set.

“2015 was a transformational year for HBC,” says Baker. “Our acquisition of Kaufhouf moved us into the European marketplace and established HBC as an international retailer. We now have a significant European platform from which we can explore additional growth opportunities.”

Baker learned about the art of buying early in his life from his grandfather, Loomis Grossman, and father Robert, who were in the business of purchasing real estate, particularly shopping centers. He was also a young entrepreneur himself; as a teen, he ran his own business, called Party Perfect, which focused on catering dinner parties and other special events. And he later studied cooking in Paris.

But he eventually joined the family business, National Realty and Development Corp, and later formed a private equity firm targeting retailers, before moving over to HBC, which NRDC bought in 2007. And his interest in real estate hasn’t subsided in the slightest as HBC is part of two successful real estate joint ventures.

Still, HBC has become best known for the attention it gives its stores, and its customers.

Asked for his longtime success secret, Baker responds: “Staying relevant, enabling teams, adapting to our customer, and driving an exceptional all-channel experience.”

While there will be a great deal of emphasis on Saks in the coming years—including dividing its huge Hudson’s Bay flagship in Toronto in a very unusual way, placing Saks virtually inside it, and a three-year renovation of the New York flagship that will completely freshen up the men’s department as well as add new restaurants along with other men’s amenities —Baker doesn’t play favorites among his retail “children.”

“We remain focused on driving growth and performance across all banners at HBC. The acquisition of Gilt Groupe is consistent with our strategy to rapidly advance our all-channel model, as well as continue to grow our off-price business.” —BSL

Contributions by Karen Alberg Grossman, Brian Scott Lipton William Buckley Stephen Garner and Michael Macko

PLEASE VISIT US AT MAGIC BOOTHES #32068 - #32084 SHIRTS & TIES LND 800-555-4009 • SUITS STITCHED 213-892-8100 • SWEATERS LAVANE 516-887-8350 • SHOES ISLAND FOOTWEAR 800-331-3390 • SOCKS GARMENT GROUP 888-4676257 • WATCHES RKI CORP 212-738-9330 • BELTS UNIFIED, INC 646-370-4650 • SUNGLASES DJ HALPERINS 800-555-4009 • NEW UNDERWEAR PREVIEW TEXTISS 310-909-6062 FOR NEW OPPORTUNITIES CALL MARK 800-555-4009 EXT: 106 MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2016 MR

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{ OUTERWEAR }

DON’T FORGET FASHION!

After a tough coat season with record-breaking warm weather, the industry is banking on transitional goods for 2016. Just don’t forget the fashion!

BY KAREN ALBERG AND BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

Qiasmi

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

T

o sum up the fall ’15 outerwear season in a word, we might choose “disastrous.” Jacqui Arqueta, president and creative director of Weatherproof, selected something more diplomatic. “We’d say ‘sluggish.’ Our classics continued to sell through: microfiber, soft shell, lightweights. After holiday, down- and poly-filled picked up considerably.”

According to most retailers and vendors, outerwear business was down in both sales and price points thanks to the unseasonable weather. “The weather killed it this year,” says Ken Duane of PVH. “So especially at the discount and off-price tiers, some stores will pack away excess inventory, which will impact buys and production for next year.”

Still, a few retailers and vendors report some decent selling periods in 2015. As chairman of the largest coat company in America, Morris Goldfarb of G-III has learned that despite precarious weather conditions, fashion will always sell early in the season.

This past winter was no exception: early (through mid-October) sales were very strong in fashion wools, novelties and coats with texture and color. “We timed our core basics to come in later and it worked in our favor,” he says.

He goes on to explain that in 2014, wool trended down due to an industry-wide lack of creativity. “When a category becomes tired, the business is driven by price. So for 2015, we became very aggressive with our fashion wools, as well as transitional products like soft shells and rainwear. The result: although it wasn’t cold

Barbour

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{ OUTERWEAR }

enough and stores didn’t sell enough, we still had a record year.”

CBE London At Barbour, general manager Tom Hooven also reports a good year, describing the company’s greatest challenge as “maintaining an inventory of temperatureappropriate products in order to fulfill quick-response orders. Our seasonal reorders were equal to 2014 levels.” specially at the ups c a l e level, strong fashion offerings sold well and could have bolstered margins had retailers not resorted to steep markdowns so early in the season. Says Ken Giddon at Rothmans in NYC, “We had great stuff from Corneliani, G-Lab, Save the Duck. We did well with not-too-heavy quilted styles from Victorinox. Barbour did very well, as did multitextured looks from a German brand called Handstich. Their outerwear was different; people really liked it. It sold early and we actually had to reorder. The biggest problem is that department stores panicked early. January through March will be cold. If they hadn’t lowered prices so dramatically so soon, we

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could be selling at only 20 percent off in January and February.”

At Larrimor’s in Pittsburgh, owner Tom Michael says his best-selling outerwear was topcoats. “But that’s because we ran a promotion in July: 100% cashmere topcoats that were normally $1,995, we sold for $1,475. Customers could order in July and take possession in October. After that, Barbour was our best-selling collection in units and dollars, followed by Canada Goose.”

At Save the Duck, Alex Abiton reports that anything novelty in fabric and design (pattern) sold well, especially prints! Wally Naymon, owner of Kilgore Trout in Cleveland, confirms the importance of fashion offerings. “What did best for us were transitional weights and vests.

Also, leather was a surprise, and cool shearlings.”

Another hot category in several upscale stores was wearable tech. Darien Sport Shop EVP/DMM Tom Whitney singles out jackets from Gyde Supply Co. that feature hidden heating elements.

As Gyde’s Tom Nolan elaborates, “The technology has been around for a while but in unappealing models. We made them aesthetically beautiful. We feature heating elements in chest, back and neck; a portable battery (that comes with battery charger) lasts eight hours and can be controlled from a phone or Bluetooth. We own all the patents.

We thought the customer would be

“I still think there’s plenty of trend in outerwear for fall ‘16 —the focus has to be on lighter weights.”

Durand Guion, VP/ Fashion Director, Macy’s Inc

European silhouette but understandable to the North American market. We’re introducing better fabrics at affordable prices and launching high performance fabrics (“Pro-Tech”) at slightly higher retails.”

The story is similar at Weatherproof. “Going forward, we’ll continue to play off a rugged feel, but with more of technical edge,” says Arqueta.

“Things are definitely getting sportier.” And from Daniel Montelongo at Hawke & Co, “We’re adding several new updates to our packable down and we’re expanding our Hawke Extreme line which, at the same price points ($175 ticket), is more technical. The consumer has also asked for more branding, more reversibles and more waterproof options, so we’re giving them what they want.”

Not a bad idea.

ADOLFO

hunters and fishermen but it’s actually soccer moms and dads.” (Suggested retails are $299 for vests, $349 for jackets. Soft shells are $249 and fleece is $279.)

Retailers and vendors preparing for fall ’16 are optimistic. “I still think there’s plenty of trend in outerwear for fall ‘16,” says Macy’s Inc. VP and fashion director Durand Guion. “However, the focus has to be on lighter weights and a more transitional point of view, especially through Q3.”

Says Abiton, “We’re updating our fit to a slim

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DUNHILL

LONDON COLLECTIONS PHOTOGRAPHY

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

MEN

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

TOPMAN DESIGN

DUNHILL

GIEVES & HAWKE

From brands with a base in great British tailoring like Duchamp, Dunhill and Savile Row's Gieves & Hawke, to famous fashion houses like Alexander McQueen, Moschino and Burberry, London Collections: Men is the first fashion week of the season, leading the way for fall/winter 2016 in more ways than one.

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{ FOOTWEAR }

SOLE SEARCHING Casual and comfortable remain the watchwords for the men’s footwear market.

BY STEPHEN GARNER

M

en’s footwear is having a moment. According to an April 2015 report by the National Shoe Retailers Association, men’s athletic shoes accounted for 20 percent of all footwear sales (men’s and women’s) during 2014, while men’s casual and dress shoes accounted for 9 and 6 percent, respectively.

“Men are becoming comfortable owning multiple pairs of shoes,” says Macy’s fashion director Durand Guion. “Sneakers have allowed luxury brands to access a broader consumer base. Men have had an overwhelming response to these elevated athleisure offerings as they are easier to work into an ever-changing lifestyle way of getting dressed. No longer are dress shoes the defining rule for weekdays and sneakers for weekends.”

Of course, the idea of men wearing sneakers for non-athletic purposes isn’t exactly new. “Find a picture of the back cover of the Ameri-

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can country rock band New Riders of the Purple Sage’s first album from 1971, and look at what they are wearing: Adidas white tennis shoes and jeans,” says Glen Taylor, president of Taylor Richards & Conger, a specialty store in Charlotte, North Carolina. “While it was a counterculture concept then, it has become mainstream today. The modern look, as is seen in most fashion spreads, follows this lead and features sneakers as the shoe du jour. That said, comfort and practicality seem to resonate with a very large audience.”

Indeed, over the past couple of years, active influences have infiltrated all sectors of the men’s footwear market. There is a greater emphasis on sportiness and comfort, with new technologies being applied TOP TO BOTTOM: Adidas x Raf Simons, courtesy of East Dane; APL, courtesy of East Dane; Noah Waxman shoe, courtesy of Noah Waxman

2016 FALL SLIPPER COLLECTION

142 West 46th Street • 17th floor • New York, NY 10018 • 800-969-9016

WWW.THESGCOMPANIES.COM

{ FOOTWEAR }

“Sneakers will continue to grow and become a more significant portion of our designer assortments.”

– Eric Jennings, fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue

to shoe construction, specifically in the footbeds. Shoes of all sorts now have more support and also feature more active detailing.

“Trend and iconic designer motifs are driving the growth in fashion shoes whether it’s sneakers, boots or leather shoes. Think Fendi’s monster motif, Valentino’s camo print or Givenchy’s star,” says Saks’ vice president and fashion director Eric Jennings. “Sneakers will continue to grow and become a more significant portion of our designer assortments.”

And not just in the brick-and-mortar world. Online retailer East Dane has recently seen great success with well-known athletic brands.

“Over the last few seasons we have seen a strong return to athletic heritage brands such as Adidas, Puma and APL as opposed to high-end luxury designer sneakers,” says East Dane men’s fashion director Wayne Gross. “New mid-tier brands such as Want Les Essentiels, Vince, Zespa, ETQ and Filling Pieces are also impacting the category, providing great styling at a competitive price.”

This growing demand puts a certain pressure on designers and manufacturers who might have otherwise eschewed this category. “With technology removing the barriers between retailer and consumer, retailers know more than ever what their consumer wants,” says Emily Fine, accessories trend editor at trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops.

Noah Waxman, known for his handmade leather dress shoes, recently started producing sneakers due to growing retail demand. “I did start to make sneakers because stores were asking for them,” says Wax-

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TOP TO BOTTOM: Want les Essentiels, Zespa, and Puma; all courtesy of East Dane

man in his midtown Manhattan studio. “But I do them in a way that would remain true to the brand. Adding a sneaker allowed us to go to a lower opening price point, which is an easier place to do that rather than our leather dress shoes.” ndeed, athleisure details are already making their way into all types of shoe styles for fall ‘16. Take Nike’s sneaker-boot for example. Part sneaker, part ankle boot, these sneaker boots are made of waxed leathers for weather resistance, and feature a sneaker-type midsole with a boot upper. For the guy who is not yet ready to give up the comfort of his sneaker, this new hybrid shoe features a more traditional leather upper on a rubber or crepe sole.

Even swimwear company Onia has branched out into hybrid footwear. Co-founders Carl Cunow and Nathan Romano merged the classic flip-flop rubber sole with Onia swim fabric, eyelets and draw cords to create a water-resistant, easy-to-wear shoe.

“The market has gotten so diverse,” says Jason Faustino, co-founder and creative director of NYC sneaker mecca Extra Butter. “Blogs and social media have helped brands understand what the consumer wants, and for the past two years, most of the major brands have been feeding the market exactly that. We’re at a fun time now.”

I

LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 | SANDS EXPO, THE VENETIAN | M&T:9AM-6PM, W:9AM-4PM WWW.LIBERTYFAIRS.COM | FOLLOW US @LIBERTYFAIRS #LIBERTYFAIRS #BRANDTOGETHER NAM

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#INTHEMRKET

A GUIDE TO THE INDUSTRY’S LEADING MENSWEAR SHOW

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MON 8-6:30 TUES 8-6 WED 9-4 PALAZZO/SANDS EXPO, LAS VEGAS

B E S T

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BEST IN SHOW JACKPOT!

Welcome to the February 2016 edition of MRket, the industry’s premier menswear trade show. This recently revamped event boasts numerous changes and additions–including this re-designed show preview, #InTheMRket (which also happens to be our chosen hashtag for social media so be sure to use it when posting and searching). With more than 300 exhibitors this season, and with each a true leader in its area of specialty, MRket Las Vegas offers the most winning mix of menswear of any show in town.

AGE OF WISDOM ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR ALBERTO * ALEX CANNON AMERICAN LIFESTYLES ANDREW FEZZA ANDREW FEZZA SHIRTS & NECKWEAR ANDREW MARC CLOTHING ANDREW-J SHIRTS ANGELINO ARALDI 1930 ARISTO 18 SPORTSWEAR ASTON LEATHER AUSTIN REED BARBOUR CLASSIC BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL BASIC OPTIONS BEN SHERMAN BH2° BILLY LONDON THE BIRD DOG GROUP BLUE BLUE LION APPAREL BLUJACKET BORGO 28 * BOSTON HARBOUR VINTAGE BR4SS BRACKISH * BRANDOLINI BRANDOLINI BOYS BREUER SAS THE BRITISH APPAREL COLLECTION LTD. BRUNO MAGLI BRUNO MARCHESI BRUNO PIATELLI BRYANT PARK NEW YORK BURMA BIBAS C89 * CABANO NEW CANADIAN CALVIN KLEIN CLOTHING CAMPIA CARIBBEAN JOE CARL GROSS OF GERMANY CARLOS CORDOBA CARNOUSTIE SPORTSWEAR CERVO-BARBISIO CHELSEY IMPORTS CHIARI CITY SPORT * COCKPIT USA * COCONUT GROVE CODICE *

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CODIS MAYA LTD COLLECTION LAMARQUE COMPONENTS BY JOHN MCCOY COOPER + STEWART COOPER JONES SUPPLY * COOPER KNITTING/TOSANI/ BRAGA/SAM REMO CORGI COTTON BROTHERS COTTON REEL CUFFLINKS, INC. CUTTER & BUCK D’RUGGIERO DAMON DANIEL HECHTER DANIEL WON * DAVID SMITH AUSTRALIA DENTS HERITAGE COLLECTION DI BELLO BY NIPAL DIELMAR * DIMENSIONS DION DIRTY VELVET DKNY DOBB’S HATS & CAPS DOCKERS DOLCEPUNTA DUBARRY OF IRELAND DUCK HEAD/CRITTENDEN/GYDE DYLAN DEVELOPED BY TRUE GRIT ECCO EDWARD ARMAH EISENBERG INTERNATIONAL ELIE TAHARI/TAHARI EMANUEL UNGARO OUTERWEAR EMPIRE CLOTHING ENGLISH UTOPIA ENRO ENZONE FASHIONS EURO FASHIONS EUROPEAN FASHION GROUP FABER-CASTELL DESIGN FHP ORIGINAL KHAKIS FIORIMA, S.A. FLORSHEIM FLY BELT FORSYTH OF CANADA FRANCO DOMANI FREDRICK MARTIN G.H. BASS GARDEUR GARMENT GROUP INC.

GEOFF NICHOLSON GEOFFREY BEENE GIANNI MARCELO GIMO’S GIONFRIDDO GITMAN BROS GLOBAL MINT GLOVERALL * GRAF VON FABER-CASTELL GRAN SASSO HAGGAR CLOTHING COMPANY HAGGAR NECKWEAR HALLMARK NECKWEAR HALSEY * HAPPY TIES HARBOUR INTERNATIONAL LLC HARLEY OF SCOTLAND HAUPT SHIRTS OF GERMANY HILTL HOLLIS BAHRINGER HOMAND HOMMARD * HOOK + ALBERT * HORN LEGEND I. MILLER I.C. RICHARD CHOI * IBIZA iDESIGN IKE BEHAR IKE BEHAR TAILORED IMPULSO INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS * INOX JEWLERY INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY IRELAND’S EYE ISAAC MIZRAHI ISAAC MIZRAHI LEATHER GOODS ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSION ITALO FERRETTI ITALUOMO ITALWEAR/A. BOSSI ITOCHU PROMINENT J&M EST 1850 J.M. DICKENS J.S. BLANK & CO/BARBARA BLANK JACK VICTOR JAMES CAMPBELL SOCKS JAMES TATTERSALL JARED JIMMY SALES NECKWEAR/ BRUNO PIATTELLI NECKWEAR JOHN PETER LONDON JOHNNIE O JOHNSTON & MURPHY JONES NEW YORK KAHALA SPORTSWEAR KAPRAUN * KEEPERS INTERNATIONAL KENNETH COLE CLOTHING KENNETH COLE COATS & RAINWEAR KIFF KIFF * KINROSS CASHMERE KROON KUEHNERT INC. LANCIA LANIER CLOTHES LAUREN RALPH LAUREN LEFT COAST TEE LEJON LEO CHEVALIER LOFT 604/CESARANI *

MRKET LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016

TAXI REIMBURSEMENT Your ride is on us, retailers! Present the receipt (up to a $10 fare) from your cab to the Sands Expo/Palazzo at the registration counter and we’ll pay you right back.

S H O W

* Vanguards Gallery Exhibitors

ACTIVATIONS

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RUCKFIELD RYAN MICHAEL S. COHEN INC. SANYO NEW YORK SAVILE ROW THE SAVILLE ROW CO. SCHUYLER 4 SCOJO NEW YORK SCOTT & CHARTERS SCOTT NICHOL SCULLY/HIDESIGN SEAN JOHN SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION SERICA SERICA ELITE SETA ZONE SHAQUILLE O’NEAL SIGNUM SHIRTS SIMPLY SOUTHERN SMATHERS AND BRANSON SOUTHERN PROPER ST. CROIX COLLECTIONS AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX STACY ADAMS STENSTROMS SWEDEN STETSON HATS STEVE HARVEY NECKWEAR STEVE HARVEY SPORTSWEAR COLLECTION STEVEN LAND STUDIO BY INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY SUSAN G. KOMEN SWELL FELLOW TAGIO TAHARI ELEMENTS TAILORBYRD TAILORBYRD SPORT TALLIA ORANGE HOSIERY TAMPA FUEGO TATEOSSIAN LTD. TED BAKER LONDON * THADDEUS THOMAS HANCOCK VA THOMPSON TIGER MOUNTAIN TOMMY HILFIGER TORI RICHARD, LTD. TORINO TORRAS TRUE GRIT TRUEFITT & HILL * UP TO BE * VANNUCCI VINCE CAMUTO TAILORED VINEYARD VINES VINTAGE ITALIA VISCONTI BLACK VIV SHIRTS/VIV TIES VIYELLA WD LONDON WIGENS WOOD UNDERWEAR * XACUS - ANDREA ZORI THE ZB SAVOY CO. *

B E S T

LONDON DRY LONE PINE LEATHERS LORDS OF HARLECH * LORENZONI LUCHIANO VISCONTI LUCHIANO VISCONTI BOYS LUCIANO BARDELLI LUCIANO MORESCO LV BLACK MAC OF GERMANY MADDA FELLA MADISON CREEK OUTFITTERS MAKER AND COMPANY MARCELLO SPORT MARCHESI DI COMO MARCO VALENTINO MARCRAFT MATT TOTILLO * MATTARAZI UOMO, INC. MAYSER HEADWEAR MEYER * MICHAEL & DAVID MICHAEL KORS MICHAEL ZECHBAUER MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI MMG MMX * MONTECHIARO NATURAL BLUE * NEWPORT HARBOR NEWPORT ISLE NICK GRAHAM TAILORED NIGEL KNOX NIFTY SOCKS THE NORTH POLE ONE MORE THEN WE’LL GO * OVERTON PACIFIC SILK PAISLEY & GRAY * PALM BEACH PANTHERELLA PARK WEST PAUL BETENLY CLOTHING PEACOCK APPAREL PEERLESS BOYS PEERLESS CLOTHING USA, INC. PENGUIN TAILORED PER-PEDES PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL PERRY ELLIS TAILORED PETE HUNTINGTON PETER BARTON/THE DUNLAP WEAVERS PETROCELLI POLIFRONI MILANO PROSSIMO JACK VICTOR * PUNTO SOCKS QUIETI RAFFI REGENCY BY LAMARQUE REMO TULLIANI REMY RES IPSA * RICHARD JAMES RIVIERA RED RIZZI ROBERT GRAHAM DRESS SHIRTS ROBERT GRAHAM HOSIERY ROBERT GRAHAM NECKWEAR ROBERT GRAHAM TAILORED CLOTHING ROMA INDUSTRIES ROOSTER NECKWEAR ROSS GRAISON

FOOD TRUCKS Because they were so popular during the August 2015 show, we’ve rolled an assortment of specialty food trucks back into the café area. Their mobile menus include a wide range of delish dishes so be sure to park yourself over there come mealtime. Each day they’ll serve breakfast from 8am to 10am and lunch from 12pm to 2pm. MRket Las Vegas is the only show to offer complimentary, expertly prepared meals for our valued attendees.

MRket is pleased to continue it’s alliance with five unique trade shows under one roof (named MODERN ASSEMBLY) here at The Sands/Palazzo that attracts more than 15,000 attendees and 2,250+ exhibitors. We wish our fellow Modern Assembly members Agenda, Capsule, Liberty, Accessories The Show and Stitch all the best this season.

VG PLATINUM

# INTHEMRKET

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FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

NEW& NOW MRket surges forward with a fresh new look, fantastic first-time exhibitors, the Las Vegas debut of a exclusive platform devoted to luxurious, elegant and modern menswear and the arrival of special guests who will report live from the show floor each day.

Plus, there’s now more time for buyers to shop the show.

A N E L E V A T E D E NVIRO NM ENT The MRket show floor was completely made over this season. Our new booth design reflects the best of contemporary visual display with its clean, streamlined aesthetic that’s created from raw industrial steel, natural pale wood grain, crisp white fabric walls and a chic and masculine charcoal flooring. Meant to showcase product in the best possible light without ever upstaging it, the new booths were designed by a first-class firm located in Italy, the epicenter of innovative visual presentation. Functional and beautiful, these new display spaces truly epitomize effective, modern merchandising.

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MRKET LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016

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Las Vegas gets richer this season with the arrival of Platinum, an alluring area within Vanguards Gallery where luxury labels shine. You’ll find treasures such as Brackish, Daniel Won, Dielmar, Hommard, Kapraun, Kiff Kiff, Res Ipsa and Truefitt & Hill in this select, sophisticated section.

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&

PLATINUM GUEST STARS BRO TH ERS & C RAFT

Esteemed new media and creative agency Brothers & Craft will be #InTheMRket and live blogging from the show. Founded in Charleston, S.C. four years ago by a pair of brothers and two of their friends, B&C “engages culture in stylish ways” via styling, photography, promotion and social media.

EARLIER HOURS

M O VING TH E CLO CK Time is on your side this season. To satisfy the requests of early bird exhibitors and visitors, MRket has expanded its hours and will start one hour earlier than usual on Monday and Tuesday. The new hours are: February 15

8am to 6:30pm

February 16

8am to 6pm

February 17

9am to 4pm

# INTHEMRKET

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FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

PREMIERES Be sure to visit the following 30+ exhibitors that are making their MRket Las Vegas debut this season.

AMERICAN LIFESTYLES AUSTIN REED BH2° BLUJACKET BRACKISH * BRUNO MAGLI CITY SPORT * COCKPIT USA * DANIEL WON * DUBARRY OF IRELAND DUCK HEAD/CRITTENDEN/GYDE FHP ORIGINAL KHAKIS G.H. BASS GLOVERALL * GRAF VON FABER-CASTELL HOMAND HOMMARD * INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS * ITOCHU PROMINENT J&M EST 1850 JARED LONDON DRY LORDS OF HARLECH * MADDA FELLA PENGUIN TAILORED PERRY ELLIS TAILORED PETE HUNTINGTON RUCKFIELD SETA ZONE SHAQUILLE O'NEAL SIMPLY SOUTHERN STEVE HARVEY SPORTSWEAR COLLECTION SWELL FELLOW TAHARI ELEMENTS TAILORBYRD SPORT THE NORTH POLE TRUEFITT & HILL * UP TO BE * VINCE CAMUTO TAILORED VINEYARD VINES

* Vanguards Gallery

FHP ORIGINAL KHAKIS European Fashion Group is launching this brand new contemporary, heritage-inspired bottoms collection this season. The pants, in three fits, are garment dyed, garment washed and have just the right amount of stretch and attitude.

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# INTHEMRKET

DUBARRY OF IRELAND Established near Galway nearly 80 years ago, Dubarry began as a manufacturer of fine leather shoes. Its offerings later expanded to include sailing and country boots and a full collection of apparel and accessories for the country, sailing and urban life. Key looks include tweed blazers, waterproof jackets and practical knitwear, all created to effortlessly transition from the manor to the metropolis.

MRKET LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016

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GYDE SUPPLY CO

& N O W

A leader in heating technology in the outerwear sector for more than 40 years, Gyde Supply Co creates jackets, shells, pant liners and accessories made with advanced and cutting-edge materials, including some extremely modern models that utilize battery packs and Bluetooth technology to generate warmth. Get plugged in to its latest advancements this season.

GRAF VON FABER-CASTELL The maker of the world’s finest pens and other writing instruments for more than 250 years, this esteemed European luxury brand also has a small leather accessories and jewelry collection with pieces that are as impressive and beautifully crafted as the brand’s pens. From wallets to cufflinks, the top-quality of these items is writ large from the first glance.

ITOCHU PROMINENT The U.S. division of the Tokyo-based giant Itochu Corporation, Itochu Prominent is a well-connected manufacturer who is the licensee for Perry Ellis dress shirts and Original Penguin dress shirts and tailored clothing, among others.

ONE MORE THEN WE’LL GO “A lifestyle brand for those who are ready to stop making appointments and start making moves.” One More Then We’ll Go serves up a collection of casual clothes–especially graphicdriven tops–and accessories that celebrate such pastimes as beer drinking, fishing, golfing and surfing. The assortment spans from long and short sleeve T’s to shades, caps and beanies.

# INTHEMRKET

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S E E S

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

M U S T

MRKET MUST-SEES Once again, these three special show sections return and are not to be missed. Whether you’re seeking Italian excellence and craftsmanship, clothes that are ideal for life by the waterside or cutting-edge and modern design (or all three), this trio of thematic zones will satisfy all your buying needs.

ARALDI 1930 DI BELLO BY NIPAL DOLCEPUNTA GIMO’S

MADE IN ITALY We’ve again brought together some of the best brands from “il bel paese” and placed them in an environment that spotlights their collective excellence, craftsmanship and superior quality. Be sure to say “Ciao” to the following Made in Italy brands:

GRAN SASSO HOMAND IMPULSO ITALO FERRETTI ITALWEAR/A.BOSSI LORENZONI LUCIANO MORESCO MARCHESI DI COMO MONTECHIARO XACUS – ANDREA ZORI

LAGO

CARBONE

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# INTHEMRKET

PHOTO BY DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN

And, after you’ve finished shopping the section, why not continue to dream that you’re in Italia by visiting one of the excellent Italian restaurants in Las Vegas such as Lavo here at The Venetian, Carbone at Aria or Lago at The Bellagio? Buono buying–and appetito!

MRKET LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016

M U S T S E E S

As relaxed as a sunbather on the ямБfth straight day of a picture-perfect beach holiday and as effortless as putting on your favorite tee, this unique grouping of casual brands truly embodies the paradoxically super-chill yet adventurous outdoor lifestyle. So dive into Coast Life and discover its refreshing assortment of comfortable, easy-to-wear apparel and accessories with an easy-going appeal that will never ebb.

CARNOUSTIE SPORTSWEAR COTTON BROTHERS CUTTER & BUCK DUCK HEAD/CRITTENDEN/GYDE JAMES TATTERSALL JOHNNIE O KAHALA SPORTSWEAR LEFT COAST TEE MADDA FELLA MADISON CREEK OUTFITTERS NEWPORT ISLE OVERTON PARK WEST PETE HUNTINGTON SIMPLY SOUTHERN SMATHERS AND BRANSON SOUTHERN PROPER TIGER MOUNTAIN TORI RICHARD, LTD. TRUE GRIT VINEYARD VINES

# INTHEMRKET

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V A N G U A R D S

G A L L E R Y

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

COCKPIT USA

vanguard: the group of people who are the leaders of an action or movement in society, politics, art, etc.

Merriam-Webster Dictionary HOMMARD

A few years ago, Vanguards Gallery debuted as a space to feature burgeoning brands but like MRket itself, it has since evolved into a stronger, somewhat different animal.

That said, it is still aptly named.

Curated by MRket’s resident menswear maven Michael Macko, Vanguards Gallery now features unexpected up-and-comers alongside more established collections that are propelling menswear into its next (and thus far best-ever) incarnation. Visit

BRACKISH

Vanguards Gallery to get a glimpse of tomorrow… today. And strike gold at Platinum, Vanguards Gallery’s luxury-

ALBERTO

focused subsection that makes its Las Vegas debut this season.

KAPRAUN

CODICE MATT TOTILLO

RES IPSA

WOOD UNDERWEAR

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MRKET LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016

V A N G U A R D S

TRUEFITT & HILL

COOPER JONES SUPPLY

MEYER

DANIEL WON

G A L L E R Y

LOFT 604/CESARANI

CITY SPORT

DIELMAR

C89

NATURAL BLUE

HALSEY

HOOK+ALBERT

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51

P H O T O

S H O P

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

P SHOP O T O

Whether you’re looking for trends or specific items, the following picture-driven pages will help you fine-tune your buying.

ANDREW FEZZA

XACUS

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MICHAEL KORS

CALVIN KLEIN CLOTHING

DANIEL HECHTER

MRKET LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016

Young go-getters won’t remain on the corporate ladder’s lower rungs long in these sharp, modern suiting options.

S H O P

AUSTIN REED

DKNY

JONES NEW YORK

P H O T O

STARTER SUIT

PEERLESS BOYS

LAUREN RALPH LAUREN

S.COHEN KENNETH COLE COATS & RAINWEAR

HAGGAR NECKWEAR TOMMY HILFIGER

KROON

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53

SERICA ELITE

WEEKEND GETAWAY

Whether they are packed for a jaunt to a country cabin or a stay at a seaside B&B, these relaxed casual looks are truly a breath of fresh air.

P H O T O

S H O P

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

BH2Ëš

DI BELLO

BY NIPAL

FREDRICK MARTIN

RIVIERA RED

G.H. BASS

MICHAEL ZECHBAUER

RAFFI SOUTHERN PROPER

JAMES TATTERSALL HILTL

GITMAN BROS.

JOHN PETER LONDON

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P H O T O

GARDEUR

CAMPIA JARED

S H O P

THOMAS HANCOCK

FHP ORIGINAL

POLIFRONI MILANO LEO CHEVALIER IMPULSO

PAUL BETENLY CLOTHING

HAUPT SHIRTS OF GERMANY

ASTON LEATHER

KEUHNERT INC

TORI RICHARD, LTD VINTAGE ITALIA

KAHALA SPORTSWEAR MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI

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ROSS GRAISON

ROCK & ROLL

West Coast and retro vibes are the dominant notes in this band of musician-appropriate clothes and accessories exhibitors.

P H O T O

S H O P

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

RYAN MICHAEL

LEJON

ITALWEAR/A.BOSSI ANGELINO

BOSTON HARBOUR VINTAGE

CERVO-BARBISIO BEN SHERMAN

MARCO VALENTINO J&M EST 1850

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DOLCEPUNTA

P H O T O

STETSON HATS

REGENCY

BY LAMARQUE

S H O P

LORENZONI

MAYSER HEADWEAR

THE BRITISH APPAREL COLLECTION

BURMA BIBAS

DAVID SMITH AUSTRALIA

SWELL FELLOW

DOBBS HATS & CAPS

EDWARD ARMAH

LONE PINE LEATHERS

PER PEDES

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NORTH SEA

Rugged, chill-stopping outerwear and traditional knits with a European feel will keep the cold weather at bay next fall.

P H O T O

S H O P

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

GIMOS

CUTTER & BUCK

BARBOUR CLASSIC

CARL GROSS OF GERMANY

GRAN SASSO ST. CROIX COLLECTIONS AND HERITAGE

BY ST. CROIX

KINROSS

CHELSEY IMPORTS

SCOTT NICHOL

ALEX CANNON

SCOTT & CHARTERS

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EMANUEL UNGARO

P H O T O

HARLEY OF SCOTLAND

S H O P

WIGENS

ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR DENTS HERITAGE COLLECTION

BREUER SAS

IRELANDS EYE

TORRAS

J.M. DICKENS

ENGLISH UTOPIA

VIYELLA

BR4SS

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EXECUTIVE OFFICE

GRAF VON FABER-CASTELL

Who’s the boss? Your customers will be with powerful apparel and related accessories that are perfectly suited for corner offices.

P H O T O

S H O P

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

JACK VICTOR

STEVE HARVEY NECKWEAR

ROBERT GRAHAM DRESS SHIRTS

SEAN JOHN ITALO FERRETTI LANIER

FORSYTH OF CANADA

SHAQUILLE O’NEAL

PANTHERELLA

BEY-BERK INT’L

MATTARAZI UOMO, INC

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MRKET LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016

SERICA

IDESIGN

P H O T O

BLUE LION APPAREL

S H O P

ANDREW-J SHIRTS

SANYO NEW YORK

ANDREW MARC CLOTHING

ISAAC MIZRAHI

LUCHIANO VISCONTI

BRUNO PIATELLI

IBIZA

FABER-CASTELL SUSAN G. KOMEN

ARALDI 1930

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P H O T O

S H O P

FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 MRKET LAS VEGAS

GRAPHIC NOVEL(TY)

CODIS MAYA

Eye-catching patterns, colors and textures add some welcome whimsy and oomph to menswear.

CORGI STEVE HARVEY SPORTSWEAR

AMERICAN LIFESTYLES

WD LONDON

HAPPY TIES HALLMARK NECKWEAR VISCONTI BLACK NIGEL KNOX NIFTY SOCKS

ROBERT GRAHAM TAILORED CLOTHING

GEOFF NICHOLSON MMG

BRANDOLINI KEEPERS INTERNATIONAL

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P H O T O

LUCHIANO VISCONTI BOYS PUNTO SOCKS

S H O P

QUIETI GLOBAL MINT

FLORSHEIM

ROOSTER NECKWEAR

TORINO

ROBERT GRAHAM PACIFIC SILK

HOSIERY

LV BLACK

BLUE BRANDOLINI BOYS

MONTECHIARO

MARCHESI DI COMO

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63

BY MICHAEL MACKO

HOW___________WORKS

Raffi Shaya has often been called the "King of Cashmere,” but I prefer to think of him as the Godfather. He started Raffi Cashmere, one of the most innovative brands with the luxury fiber, in 1998. There is always something new, whether it's garment washing or tie-dying or a version you can throw in the washing machine (in the works now). I recently visited his Port Washington complex/warehouse to see how Raffi works.

THE GLASSES Raffi would hardly be recognizable without his signature boldly colored eyeglasses. He keeps them in a clear glass vase on his desk and changes them daily to match his look of the day. He also confesses that what’s in the vase is only part of his collection and there are an equal number of pairs at home and in the car. In all, he owns about 30 pairs, enough for him to have a wholesale account with Eyebobs, who makes them all.

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MR FEBRUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

THE COLORS A master of color, Raffi comes up with a new palette every season. Not surprisingly all shades of gray and blue are the company’s best sellers.

The color he is most excited about for F/W ‘16 is Peacock, a beautiful shade of blue-green that you can see right above Raffi's left thumb.

THE FAMILY Raffi Cashmere is truly a family business. His wife and three daughters all work alongside him in design, sales and on his women's line. His six grandchildren also love to come visit and help inspire him, and when they're not there physically, their images and artwork are seen throughout his office.

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

THE TROPHIES Raffi began playing golf in 2002 and immediately became hooked, as is evident by the number of trophies scattered throughout his office.

While he likes both the exercise and challenge of the game, Raffi also likes taking buyers to Engineers Country Club in nearby Roslyn Harbor. I asked if he ever lets the buyers win, for fear there might otherwise be a smaller open-to-buy when they got back to the office. "Never" he tells me.

THE GOATS As ubiquitous as Raffi cashmere sweaters themselves, the goats first made their appearance in 2004/2005 when Raffi made his preliminary trip to Mongolia to check out their raw goods. He saw one there and ordered 500 to hand out to retailers, buyers and friends. Raffi has re-ordered the item so many times the goat now has its own hashtag: #goatknows.

MR February 2016

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE / MENSWEAR MOVERS

A BUSINESS J OURNALS PUBLICATION

Vol. 27 No. 2