MR February 2017 by MR Magazine

LAS VEGAS SHOW PREVIEW CITY OF SECRETS

FEBRUARY 2017

ARE OUTLETS IN?

DENIM’S NEW DAY RETHINKING NECKWEAR

HEATING UP! Our Forecast for Fall ‘17

TOP TRENDS FOR 2017

FLEX COLLAR SHIRT . FLEX TIE . FLEX PANT . FLEX SUIT

VANHEUSEN.COM

REDEFINING NECKWEAR

After years of falling sales, industry experts are finding ways to get men to wear ties again.

INNOVATION SAVES THE SEASON Colder temperatures, cooler styles and excellent value are helping to boost outerwear sales.

34 36

CAVEAT EMPTOR? As department stores open more outlets, are off-price divisions cutting into the sales and profits of the parent store?

5 TOP TRENDS FOR 2017 From “Nowstalgia” to “Interconnectivity,” retailers need to keep their eyes on these watchwords.

Contents

Also in this issue: 6 Editor’s Letter 8 Ones to Watch 12 Scene 16 Case Study 18 Accessories 28 Clothing 32 Denim 38 Fashion 80 How Ari Hoffman Works ON OUR COVER: COAT VICTORINOX, HAT FJALLRAVEN. ON THIS PAGE: BLANKET PENDLETON, SUNGLASSES PORSCHE DESIGN. PRODUCED BY MICHAEL MACKO. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MENELIK PURYEAR

MR FEBRUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF _______________________________________________________________________________ Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 600-3201 KAREN.GROSSMAN@UBM.COM MANAGING EDITOR ______________________________________________________________________________________ Brian Scott Lipton (212) 600-3375 BRIAN.LIPTON@UBM.COM WEB EDITOR _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Stephen Garner (212) 600-3350 STEPHEN.GARNER@UBM.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Michael Macko MICHAEL.MACKO@UBM.COM

ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER _____________________________________________________________________________________ Stuart Nifoussi (212) 600-3382 STUART.NIFOUSSI@UBM.COM PUBLISHER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Lizette Chin (212) 600-3339 LIZETTE.CHIN@UBM.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER _______________________________________________________________________________ Michelle Brown (212) 600-3325 MICHELLE.BROWN@UBM.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR ___________________________________________________________________________ Donna Doyle (212) 212-600-3347 DONNA.DOYLE@UBM.COM

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE ____________________________________________________________________________ 2 PENN PLAZA, 15TH FL, NEW YORK, NY 10121 (212) 600-3000 BUSINESS OFFICE _________________________________________________________________________________ 535 CONNECTICUT AVENUE, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 523-7000

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Erick DeLeon ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ STORE MANAGER/BUYER, MARTINPATRICK3 Doug Ewert ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ CEO, TAILORED BRANDS Dan Farrington _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP Dan Leppo _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ EVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller_________________________________________________________________________________________________________ PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ SVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

UBM FASHION GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Michael Alic MICHAEL.ALIC@UBM.COM PRESIDENT MEN’S FASHION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Erik Ulin ERIK.ULIN@UBM.COM VICE-PRESIDENT MRKET ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Lizette Chin LIZETTE.CHIN@UBM.COM

EVENTS MAGIC/PROJECT LV/FN PLATFORM FEBRUARY 21-23, 2017 — MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER, LAS VEGAS, NV ALSO I N 2017 MRKET/PROJECT NY – JULY | MAGIC/PROJECT LV – AUGUST

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HALSEY44.COM| 213-746-5317 whjohnson@halsey44.com

{ EDITORIAL }

ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT We’ve all got problems; most are best solved with a bit of integrity, optimism and courage.

REFLECTING THE NEGATIVE MOOD OF THE COUNTRY after an acrimonious election, I’m sensing an insidious divisiveness in the menswear industry. It’s making me sad, and it’s making business tougher than it needs to be. A specialty retailer friend called me the other day to complain. (I welcome these calls: it’s how I learn what’s going on.) He’d had a run-in with his landlord, his lease is up, his rent is about to skyrocket to some ridiculous number, and his business is not doing well enough to cover it. Why is his business so off? Partly because several of his key vendors are now selling online to his specific customers at considerably lower prices! And partly because a new section is opening in the shopping center across the street from him featuring single brand stores, the same brands he launched in his city and nurtured for years. When he called the president of one of these brands to see if they might collaborate in the center, he was told they’re not opening there. He soon learned that they are in fact opening with one of his competitors! He called again; he’s still waiting to hear back. No one can blame vendors for selling direct or opening stores or choosing their partners; it’s the deception that’s problematic. “We need to put something together where integrity still matters,” my friend the idealist proposes. “Specialty stores need to figure out how to work with manufacturers instead of against them.” My next phone call was from a vendor friend, a truly lovely Italian guy who reps a few upscale lines out of Italy and has recently created his own collection. A fixture in the better menswear market with a solid reputation and a good track record, this friend had just returned from a selling trip to the West Coast and could not understand why retailers (both department and specialty stores) were barely giving his new collection a glance. “They were polite and respectful but showed no interest in looking at something new. I realize they’re busy and that most of their open to buy is tied up with the big brands, but we have a real problem going on at retail these days: where is the curiosity to examine something new, the courage to shake their reliance on name brands for their legitimacy?” Which brings me to a suggestion as we immerse ourselves in the fall ‘17 buying season: shop the trade shows with eyes wide open! (Why not bring a young sales associate along with you to view the market from a fresh perspective?) Never has there been more innovative and beautiful menswear out there, from modern tailored clothing to performance sportswear to sumptuous sweaters to pants with stretch that truly fit to non-silk ties that complement casual wardrobes to amazing outerwear that’s both lightweight and warm to dress shirts with stretch collars that are actually comfortable. Bring in a few new concepts, a few new brands, and play them up on your selling floors, on your websites, on social media. Let’s lift ourselves out of our negative mindsets and make menswear fun again! I hope to see many of you in Vegas and as always, I welcome your comments (and complaints)!

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MR FEBRUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

PH OTO BY KEIT H BARRACLO UG H PH OTOG RAPHY

“As we immerse ourselves in the fall ‘17 buying season: shop the trade shows with eyes wide open! (Why not bring a young sales associate along with you to view the market from a fresh perspective?)”

weatherproofgarment.com

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

“Our line doesn’t have to only be worn at the gym, as we aim to make better clothing that performs to the standards our customers demand.”

Stay Strong STRONGBODY APPAREL

Choose to be better. This is the guiding principle of Strongbody Apparel and influences everything it does -- from ethically manufacturing its garments in its hometown of Vancouver, Canada, to launching its “Buy One, Feed One” program which feeds a child in need for every Strongbody product sold. “All of our product is inspired by the West Coast lifestyle,” says Quincy Samycia, director of sales and operations at Strongbody Apparel. “We want everything that we sell to be versatile and be worn in various settings. Our line doesn’t have to only be worn at the gym, as we aim to make better clothing that performs to the standards our customers demand.” Highlights of the collection include the Pulse Elite tee, which retails for $72, and the performance short, which retails for $92 – both of which come in multiple colorways. Currently the collection can be found in upscale men’s boutiques across Canada and also at Montage hotels in Utah, Overboard Clothing in Hawaii and Sand Angels in the Cayman Islands. Expansion of its distribution is of the utmost priority for Samycia, who insists that the brand is looking to expand its presence in other markets outside of Canada. “We have a ton of opportunity for growth in Australia as well as the United States,” he adds. “If we could add a few department stores to our stockists, we would be in good shape for growth in 2017.” – SG

Greek Revival ARCADY

In 2015, brothers Billy and Christopher Hines, along with longtime friend Jack Hurley, sought to invoke in their brand a spirit of style and comfort found in the rustic paradise of the ancient Greek region of Arcadia. With this concept in mind, the team behind sportswear brand Arcady began to create timeless pieces that combine a classic aesthetic with modern reinterpretations. “Our clothes are developed and produced entirely in Los Angeles,” says Hurley. “We import fabric from around the world, mostly Japan, but to be able to produce in close proximity is extremely important to our brand.” The brand aims to provide designs that embody comfort and style, while being constructed of the highest quality materials from around the world. Its strongest category, according to Hurley, is its bomber jackets. “Both of our bomber jacket styles that we offer are our top sellers by far,” he says. “People seem to really connect with the quality of the jacket. Our design approach is always very detail-oriented, but the outerwear receives extra attention.” Prices for the collection sit in a better contemporary fashion range. Expect to find wovens that retail around $300, cashmere knits that hover around $700, and certain outerwear pieces that range between $2,000 and $3,000. Look for Arcady at the Tents in Las Vegas. – SG

“People seem to really connect with the quality and simplicity of the jacket.” 8

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{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Pulling the Cords THE CORDS & CO.

“We love corduroy and want to be the obvious alternative to denim, to take back what we feel is a forgotten fabric and own that segment.”

Making its debut this season at The Tents at Project in Las Vegas, Cords & Co. is a new corduroy brand from the creator of Happy Socks. And just like Happy Socks, this sure-tobe-successful brand was founded last year in Stockholm, Sweden. “We love corduroy and want to be the obvious alternative to denim, to take back what we feel is a forgotten fabric and own that segment,” says Oskar Odling, sales export manager for The Cords & Co. “We simply want to be the corduroy brand within the denim world.” Although the brand made its official debut at Pitti Uomo in January, this marks the first time it will be available stateside. Expect to find a wide variety of styles, fits, and colors with prices that retail around $150. So what can we expect from The Cords & Co. come this fall? “For our official consumer market debut in August, we will open six The Cords & Co. mono-brand retail stores in fashion locations in Stockholm, London, Paris, New York, Los Angeles and Tokyo, which will be in addition to whichever wholesale accounts we open for fall,” adds Odling. “Our founders are out to make a splash, so please stay tuned to see more from us later this year.” – SG

Alpine Assets AZTECH MOUNTAIN

Founded in 2013 by David Roth and Anthony Rutgers, Aztech Mountain is a performance sportswear company rooted in skiing. Inspired by a lifetime of pursuing alpine activities, the brand’s founders focused on refined cuts and effortless fits that provide advanced comfort and serve the wearer’s utilitarian needs. “Since both of us are constantly traveling between Manhattan and Aspen, we really wanted to develop a line that could serve us well in both distinct environments,” says Rutgers. “Our product is great for a typical New York City winter day or a ski day in Aspen, and retailers have really caught on. We have grown to over 30 points of sale for the fall 2016 season, and we’re looking to add more for this coming fall.” Highlights from the collection include the Nuke Suit, the brand’s original down-filled waterproof jacket ideal for skiing, and its Shadow Mountain Parka, a longer length down jacket that serves more of the brand’s metropolitan markets. Retail price points for the brand’s outerwear sit between $900 and $1,350, while a brushed cotton shirt retails for $250. Value aside, what keeps customers coming back is the brand’s attention to detail. “What sets us apart from our competitors is definitely our very strong level of details,” adds Rutgers. “Even little ones, like our bonded nylon pockets or the trims on our polos, are important to us. Both David and I believe that these details can create little moments of surprise that help to create an emotional connection between us and our customers, which is what any brand would want.” – SG

“Our product is great for a typical New York City winter day or a ski day in Aspen, and retailers have really caught on.”

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2017 MR

{ SCENE }

CITY OF

SECRETS

Menswear mavens share their Las Vegas favorites.

SHUTTERSTOCK/ BY PAUL BRADY PHOTO

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

It’s almost show time, a period of both anticipation and anxiety for fashion industry executives, be they relative newcomers or Vegas veterans. Here, we ask a few of our favorites where they like to eat, drink, sleep, and party in this infamous city of secrets. NICHOLAS RAGOSTA, Ring Jacket I’ve been going to Vegas for business for about two years. I usually stay at The Venetian or The Palazzo. The rooms are bigger than most NYC apartments, and the indoor replica of Venice (complete with chlorinated canals and gondola rides) is cheesy in a uniquely Vegas way. I love to eat at Sushi Kabuto. I was at first hesitant to eat sushi in the desert, but my Japanese colleague found a highly-rated sushi spot about 15 minutes off the strip and we decided to give it a try. It was one of the best and most authentic sushi meals I’ve had outside of Japan. For Italian, I like B&B Ristorante. It’s Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich’s spot. Their house prosecco is great, and my favorite dish is the “Two Minute Calamari” done ‘Sicilian Lifeguard Style’. I’ve yet to have a crazy party night in LV. By close of show, I like to grab drinks with clients or catch up with people from other brands before dinner. After that, I usually turn in. Vegas is always

MR FEBRUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

billed as a party town, but I actually prefer getting up early and getting to the gym before the shows start. I’m a lot more energized for the long days that way. What I’m most looking forward this time: catching up with friends you see only at the shows, and presenting our new collection.

ROBERT STOCK, Robert Graham I’ve been going to Vegas for trade shows since the first one after California in 1989. I find the Wynn Tower to be my Vegas home: quiet and very comfy. All the restaurants there are great. As far as advice for a young person coming to Vegas for the first time: enjoy the nightlife! Don’t miss David Copperfield or a Cirque du Soleil extravaganza. Also Tao is a great place to eat your first time there. And of course stay at the Cosmopolitan: it is always very entertaining for people watching.

ALLISON BASILE, Age of Wisdom: My forever favorite hotel is MGM in the Sky Lofts. I love to eat at a new restaurant called Beauty and Essex. (They also have one in New York.) It’s a “secret restaurant” that looks like a pawn shop from the outside. When entering the pawn shop you ask for the restaurant and they lead you to a back door. It opens to a beautiful bar and restaurant, very happening vibe.

{ SCENE } As for nightlife: I like going to a nice dinner with our crew and/or our buyers followed by some Texas Hold ‘Em. What I don’t like is really noisy clubs. I always look forward to showing the new collection. It’s always great when you hit the mark and give people something that’s new and exciting but I always worry about how the line will be perceived. Did I impress or not? Did I hit the “wow” factor? What I also look forward to is seeing all my stores and colleagues. A lot of these people we haven’t seen in six month so it is great to catch up. My advice to first timers coming to the show: Wear comfortable shoes!!!!!! And see as much as you can: there are lots of great lines out there showing some amazing trends.

FRED DERRING, DLS

JAMES CARTER, Clean Showroom This season makes 10 years for me in Vegas, starting when I was a 20 year old merchandising intern for LRG. It took some trial and error but I quickly learned that the best place to stay is as close to show site as possible. Because my showroom shows at PROJECT in Mandalay Bay, we typically lock in a room at The Delano so that we're able to maneuver quickly. As for food, I love seafood: lobster, crab, shrimp, oysters. I like to take clients to Lotus of Siam. It may not look like much from the outside but the food is amazing! After the show I'm the first person to my room sending out emails to potential and existing clients. Once I’ve completed that, I feel like I've earned a night of networking (partying) until 4am. I’m looking forward to launching a few new emerging International designers as well as a CLEAN Showroom Capsule collection, a passion project I’ve been working on in the background for some time now. As a showroom owner I'm always worried about the performance of my collections, making sure my team and I have done everything possible to guarantee a successful show. My most exciting Vegas experience so far was the first season I launched CLEAN Showroom. At the time I had only one small emerging designer whose product I truly believed in. Our first season we were able to get into both Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s and we also got recognized by GQ as one of the “top brands you should know about before they blow up.” That’s when I knew my concept for CLEAN was viable. The best advice I ever got about Vegas: Follow your dreams and have fun! The best advice I’d give a newcomer: Never get too drunk. There’s always someone who over-parties and can’t make it into the show the next day. You've got to know your limit. ●

THAT’S ENTERTAINMENT!

In addition to the opportunity to eat, drink, be merry, win money (and, of course, see fabulous fashions at PROJECT), visitors to Las Vegas during late February have the chance to see some of the greatest entertainment on the planet during their free time. Here are a few suggestions for those looking for a fun night out. The main attraction this month is the long-awaited return of the seemingly ageless Cher, who will be celebrating her more than 50-year career in show business with “Classic Cher,” a multimedia revue devoted to her greatest hits that will play the recently opened 5,200-seat Park Theater at Monte Carlo. Expect elaborate sets, dazzling costumes, and a slew of chart-topping tunes that will have you singing along – or at least smiling broadly. (February 18-19, 22, 24-25). What happens when you put together one of the queens of country music with one of its most popular male duos? Come find out at the Colosseum at Caesars Palace when twotime Grammy Award winner Reba McEntire teams up for a special evening with fellow Grammy winners, singer-songwriters Brooks & Dunn. As great as these artists are separately, we bet they’re even stronger together. (February 22-25). From her early appearances on TV’s “In Living Color” as an original “Fly Girl” to her ever-growing film and television career, Jennifer Lopez has continued to surprise us with the depth of her talent and her boundless energy. So it’s hardly surprising that her popular act at Planet Hollywood is aptly titled “All I Have.” This specially-created evening will have you dancing in the aisles and shaking in your seats. (February 18, 21, 24, 25). If you’ve lost some money at the tables, you can make your blues disappear by witnessing the rare combination of comedy and magic practiced by that dynamic duo, Penn & Teller. These veteran entertainers, who have been delighting audiences nightly at the Rio, know how to both amaze and amuse in equal measure. (February 18-23). — BSL

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2017 MR

PHOTO BY MCM MACHADO CICALA MORASSUT

I’ve been to every Vegas show since the beginning and still find it to be a magnificent resort city with splendid hotels, renowned restaurants (with celebrated chefs from around the world) and some of the best entertainment money can buy, available 24-7. My favorite is “LOVE,” a Cirque de Soleil show with Beatles music at the Mirage (which is across from my two favorite hotels: the Venetian and the Bellagio.) The food in these hotels leans Italian (think Mario Batali) but includes many other cuisines. A favorite is Otto, a lively upscale pizzeria located in the Venetian’s Plaza San Marco. Another favorite is The Giada inside the Cromwell: it’s Italian with refreshing Californian influences. One of the most popular nightclubs on the strip is Tao, an Asian bistro and nightclub in the Venetian, where you can unwind with cocktails at any of their 11 bars and lounges and celebrate life into the wee hours.

LV LAS VEGAS FEB 21â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 23, 2017

@projectshow

NY N E W YO R K

JUL 16â&#x20AC;&#x201C;18, 2017

@projectshow | @mrketshow

{ CASE STUDY}

THIRSTY FOR AN AMERICAN CRAFT BEER? The new opportunity for American luxury. BY JACOB LONG

WHEN I WAS INTRODUCED TO Jennifer Knight in 2013, I had already purchased the American Woolen Company trademark. A venerable name in the U.S. textile industry, American Woolen operated 51 wool mills in New England and employed over 40,000 people at the turn of the last century. It was the world's largest wool textile manufacturer, and I was enthralled by the history of this once powerful brand and determined to revive it. Jennifer was the first American I’d met under the age of 50 who had actually run textile companies. I proposed the idea of partnering together to acquire a mill and restart luxury textile manufacturing in the United States. Jennifer replied that I was crazy, but maybe my timing was right. She agreed to get involved. A few months later, we heard that Italian luxury goods company Loro Piana was closing Warren Mill in northeastern Connecticut. One of the oldest continuously running wool mills in the United States, Warren had been owned and operated by Loro Piana since 1988. Years of targeted investment had created a unique asset in the United States, and it was slated for closure. Raising money to purchase and reopen the mill was tough. If people had made money in textiles, they were thankful to be out. I am a newcomer to the textile industry, but I understand manufacturing. Having spent years working alongside European industrial concerns, I am familiar with the European approach to craft manufacturing. Mostly family-owned businesses, European craft manufacturers reinvest capital to upgrade equipment and create modern work environments. They focus on the production of quality product in smaller runs; flexibility and customization are prized. Be it ball bearings, machine tools, or fine worsted fabrics, the Europeans place effectiveness above efficiency. Get the product right, and the rest will follow. Rather than disparage outdated domestic textile manufacturing methods, we set out to create a new approach to wool textile manufacturing in America. Our approach would combine the best of European modern manufacturing practices with American ingenuity and spirit. For us, the success of American Woolen would be testimony to the return of craft manufacturing to American soil. In June 2014, we acquired the assets of Warren Mill with the support of a small group of friends and family. We rehired 25 former Warren technicians, cleaned and painted the mill and restarted machines. We engaged a design team to produce a collection of men’s suiting fabrics. We contacted potential customers to tell our story and to explain our intentions. We bore the weight of skeptics who thought we had slim chance of survival. It was a scary and exhilarating time, but every day we made progress. Two and half years later, I can recount a litany of mistakes and setbacks that hindered our efforts. At the same time, I can state definitely that we’ve done a lot of things right. We now have 50 employees, we’ve reopened our woolen spinning operation, and we’re producing fine worsteds and luxurious woolens for leading U.S. brands. I don’t need to tell this audience that the market is changing. In fact, I would argue it’s in complete upheaval. The 40-year trend in global sourcing is partially reversing itself. Major apparel brands are bringing some production closer to home. Direct-to-consumer apparel start-ups are undermining long-standing retailers and brands. It’s a bifurcated market with cheap fast-fashion dominating one end and luxury craftsmanship leading the other. Similarly, luxury itself is changing as millennials value transparency and provenance above flashy labels and fabricated brand stories. I continue to make the case that "Made in America" is one of the most undervalued taglines in the apparel industry. It’s not only about heritage brands or patriotism or bringing back manufacturing jobs. It’s about reviving and reinventing the concept of true American luxury. As a former investment banker, I can tell you with certainty that market upheaval equals market opportunity. The potential to position Made in America as an authentic luxury moniker depends on the ability of domestic retailers and manufacturers to work together to achieve this aim.

“Market upheaval equals market opportunity.”

MR FEBRUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

{ ACCESSORIES }

BECOMING A

BRAND BUILDER The co-founder of Hook & Albert shares his experiences on creating a successful company. BY ADAM SCHOENBERG

n 2009, I found myself in Sweden for my friend’s wedding. To enliven my formal outfit, I decided to slip on a pair of purple dress socks. As the pictures were being taken, I caught wind that my pal, Cory Rosenberg, was also wearing some swanky hosiery. By evening’s end, we had established a mutual passion for accessories, and also acknowledged there was a void in the market for a brand focused only on accessories. In the six years since we formally co-founded Hook & Albert, we’ve not only experienced great success, but we’ve learned some valuable lessons that we’d like to share with any company trying to create a profitable brand. (Editor’s note: the company was recently bought by Dallas-based holding company Detail Provisions Co.)

1) Educate The Marketplace .One of the first things we did was to tell our prospective retail partners that by bringing in newness and taking a chance, they could build out new product revenue streams and look like superstars within their organizations. By saying yes to our products, established retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom got new customers into their doors. Indeed, with the struggling marketplace today, more buyers should be taking chances on newness rather than taking a conservative position on inventory and brands.

Become Experts In Everything – Quickly! While today we have a full design department, we were certainly not able to afford one when we launched the brand, so we used a sourcing agent. Without the full knowledge of how products were produced, we became hostages to what they told us, and were not able to effectively offer solutions to production issues that arose. We quickly realized that we needed to not only own the process, but comprehend it in its entirety.

3) Think Big Even While Starting Small New businesses often set themselves up for the size of the business they are on day one, rather than strategically thinking through what a scaled-up operation will look like. One of our smartest moves was that we immediately put ourselves in the mindset that EVERYTHING’S COMING UP ROSES: In 2011, Hook & Albert began by producing floral lapel pins. Today, the company’s line of accessories includes socks, bags and small leather goods such as sunglass cases.

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Adam Schoenberg and Cory Rosenberg

we were a 10 million dollar brand with broad-based wholesale distribution. This decision, although it was a risky one, paid off quickly when orders started coming in. Indeed, our ability to accept and deliver all orders in full made both us and our partners confident in our business, which led to continued growth.

4) Always Understand Your Priorities On our first day in business, we were overwhelmed and wondering what to do next from our growing to-do lists. Soon enough, we discovered the question we needed to be continually asking ourselves to keep us on track: “What is going to move the needle?” Once that was sorted out, we would divide tasks based on our individual skill sets and get the job done!

5) Prepare For the Unexpected Regardless of the industry you are operating in, things will go wrong. If you are a strategic thinker, you have the potential to see the unexpected sooner than everyone else. That’s the importance of what we call worst case scenario planning. Always think as broadly as you possibly can and construct multiple outcomes to prepare for the situations you can’t even “know” are coming.

6) Manage Your Own Expectations You are always going to be your own worst critic. And dealing with the sacrifices, the tears, the strain on relationships, the financial burdens (and so much else) can feel like more you than can handle. A great way to mitigate this challenge is by reading and/or speaking with fellow entrepreneurs. Let their stories inspire your journey. ●

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{ OUTERWEAR }

INNOVATION SAVES THE SEASON

Cold weather helped, but innovative product, lighter weights and value made for a successful season. A bit less price-cutting would improve the bottom line. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

hanks to a relatively cold winter, at least compared to 2015, outerwear business was healthy this past season. Most acknowledge, however, that while weather is a definite factor, plans for next winter should be based on product innovation (fashion and technology) and value rather than long-range weather projections. Says Morris Goldfarb of G-III Apparel (outerwear makers for Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Andrew Marc, Levi’s, and many other great brands): “Coat business ended strongly, with cooperation from the weather and appropriate inventory in the stores. Down and active styles performed best: I’d say about half of our shipments this past

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winter were down. Fortunately, sell-throughs at retail were good, leaving little end-season goods for the off-price stores. So we’re less worried about an overly promotional start to fall ‘17.” But promotions, as usual, tend to be the norm in a business where buyers bring in goods before the weather turns cold and resort to price-cutting to stimulate sales. Industry estimates are that no more than 15 percent of outerwear sales are transacted at the ticket price; although better specialty stores do more like 50 percent, they end up accelerating markdowns to compete with TOP PHOTO: Left: Coat, Fjallraven, Goggles, Scott; Middle: Coat, Victorinox, Hat, LL Bean; Right: Coat, Scarf and Hat, Barbour. BELOW CENTER: Rainforest’s new Heat System coats are controlled by USB panels.

W W W. R A I N F O R E S T. C O M

HEAT SYSTEM A NEW INNOVATION IN COLD WEATHER TECHNOLOGY

3 HEATED PANELS

3 TEMPERATURE SETTINGS

RECHARGABLE USB BATTERY

RAINFOREST INC 4 2 0 5 T H AV E 2 7 T H F L R N Y C CON TAC T D OU G L AS M I C H A E L | D O U G L A S M @ R A I N F O R E S T. C O M | 2 1 2 . 5 2 3 . 0 7 0 3 PROJ E C T L A S V E G A S | F E BRUA RY 2 1 , 2 2 , A N D 2 3

{ OUTERWEAR }

the department stores. “That race to the bottom no longer works,” Goldfarb acknowledges. “In an effort to drive traffic, stores markdown too early, thereby killing their margins without driving traffic, which this past season was off a good 20 percent.” Ron Finestone, also from G-III, puts it this way: “In general, stores that did best this past season were able to offer value at a price from coveted brands so their AURs were actually higher. The right items at the right price drive up AURs. With limited space on the selling floor, the goal is to maximize floor space with the right items. Most customers will buy one coat, but they want it to be the right coat.” The right coats, according to Finestone, include transitional layering pieces, lightweight packable downs, and authentic heritage pieces from Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s and GH Bass. Starting strong for third quarter, transitional weight layering pieces sold well through fourth quarter and should continue trending through fall/winter ‘17-‘18. Also booking well at G-III for next fall/winter: wool coats with fashion details (knit trim), technical fabrics, and down alternatives. For Jason Gallen at Jim Giddon, Rothmans Victorinox Swiss Army (a 130-year-old heritage brand with 80 stores globally), the right coats feature their unique modular liner system launched in 2015 and growing nicely. “Each component is a standalone piece that can be combined in various ways; retails range from $195 for a liner to $795 for a combination,” says Gallen. “It’s all explained in our video that can be shown on the selling floor for consumers or used as a training tool for sellers.” For Jack Wu at Rainforest, innovations include Thermaluxe (a luxury down alternative made in Italy) and their exciting new Heat System controlled by USB panels.

“Vests can be worn indoors or out, and look just as great in a hip restaurant as they do outdoors.”

MR FEBRUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

This page, from top: Outerwear from Victorinox Swiss Army, Weatherproof, Save the Duck, Tommy Hilfiger, GH Bass, and Hawke.

“You just place the power bank in a pocket of the jacket and the wearer is in control. It heats up in two minutes and shuts off automatically when the desired temperature is reached. A red button heats up to 120 degrees, white up to 110 degrees, and blue up to 100 degrees.” (The coats retail from $350 to $495.) Wu says the concept was a long time in development, in order to figure out which body parts should be heated (the upper back and chest), but that they’re already selling briskly, especially when a salesperson explains it. “I personally sold several coats at Mitchells in Westport on a Saturday before Christmas. One guy bought one for himself and one for his son. We started out offering just two models but we’re increasing to seven for fall ‘17.” From a retailer perspective, all this innovation is a blessing. At Bloomingdale’s, EVP Dan Leppo is delighted with outerwear business in his three major luxury brands: Canada Goose, Herno and Moncler (in fewer doors but growing on a comp basis.) With retails averaging $1,000-$1,200, these statusbrand coats were still selling at regular price in midJanuary. Other highlights of the season for Bloomingdale’s include Barbour (with a new soft shop in the flagship store), Andrew Marc leathers (Bloomingdales’ strongest opening price business) and select items from Theory and Boss. According to Leppo, both Burberry and Ralph Lauren made nice comebacks in December. As for growth opportunities for fall ‘17, Leppo believes in leathers, since they were underplayed this past season and are ontrend for next. He also likes technical takes on wool, and stand-alone lightweight vests and shirt jackets as alternatives to tailored clothing. At the independent store level, Fred Derring of DLS maintains that specialty stores need to be special. “A really great looking jacket from Peerless is the “Ladd”- a lined puffer in thermal tech wool.” His recommended resource list for brands that are not overly distributed includes: Canada Goose, Norwegian Wool, North Face, Barbour, Gimos, Peter Millar, Schneiders, Waterville, Remy, and (for great price/value) Gruppo Bravo. Jim Giddon at Rothmans agrees with the concept of special. “I’d love to see more stylish fashion pieces that are warm and functional, pieces that can be found only in

specialty stores, not in large department stores.” That said, his outerwear business has been flat to last year. “However, we were able to help our bottom line by making some impactful purchasing decisions.” Best performing items/brands for early in the season (that sold at regular price!) included lighter weight models from Barbour, Sanyo and the “Jack Reacher Coat” (named for the Tom Cruise movie) from Rodd & Gunn. “Oddly, we’ve been selling the Jack Reacher coat on our website to customers in Europe. Who knew Tom Cruise was still so big in Europe!” Later in the season, Rothmans did well with Gimos, Corneliani, and Save The Duck. “Gimos had cool, functional coats

They say outerwear is weather dependent but we sell Canada Goose in Hawaii.” Dan Leppo, Bloomingdale’s

with interesting textures and fabrics that customers loved. Corneliani stood out for their outstanding construction, quality, elegance and execution,” notes Giddon. “And Save the Duck performed all season: their well-priced, well styled lightweight models are right on target plus customers like the animal-friendly aspect (synthetic filler instead of feathered down). Asked what didn’t work, Giddon notes that basic ¾ length and longer coats continue to be sluggish. “Luckily, we’d projected this and had adjusted our buy accordingly.” For fall/winter ‘17, Giddon believes vests will continue strong based on their versatility. “Save the Duck, Barbour and Victorinox have been our best performers and will continue forward. As outerwear by itself, under a coat as a layering piece, or simply to look cool, vests can be worn indoors or out, and look just as great in a hip restaurant as they do outdoors.” What else can be done to improve outerwear sales? Giddon cites selling seminars and contests to inspire his sellers. “Vendor financial incentives, in particular, give the sales people instant motivation (and lunch money!) ●

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2017 MR

{ TIES }

REDEFINING NECKWEAR

An industry grapples with how to bring back tie business.

here’s no question that neckwear is downtrending. Most retailers have reduced floor space by 15-20 percent and sales are down at least that much. What’s more, by many industry estimates, men’s ties are about a $700 million business in the U.S., down from $1.8 billion at its peak in the 1980s, $1.2 billion in the 1990s. Not a pretty picture by any standards. Still, as Randa president Heath Golden puts it, “$700 million is a big number, plus it’s all incremental business, and relatively high margin.” How unfortunate, therefore, that so many retailers are still merchandising neckwear the same way they always have: spread out horizontally on tables, assorted by color or by brand, with tremendous duplication and no clear message. What’s just as unfortunate: the erroneous assumption that ties are best worn only with tailored clothing. It’s a new era, and to reach younger guys, step one is to create and market neckwear that works with sportswear. Golden shares his personal take on the power of neckwear. “Before I joined Randa, I stopped wearing ties for a while. When I started wearing them again, I felt this amazing power. Wearing a tie, you get the benefit of the doubt, a bonus 50 points of IQ. It’s like a superman cape, another weapon in one’s arsenal. The challenge for our industry is how to get more consumers to think differently about neckwear.” So Randa commissioned a study to determine how consumers feel about ties. They focused on a cross-section of 500 consumers

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PVH

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

(73% men and 27% women). Among the more interesting findings:

**81 **56 **71

**44 **18 **74 **48

percent of the sample wear ties for occasions, 58% for work, 37% wear ties every day. percent of men think neckwear is uncomfortable; 35% would wear ties more often if more comfortable. percent say ties make them feel more professional, 67% think they help make an impression, 63% say ties elevate their look and 62% make them feel good about their appearance. percent say color drives the sale, 33% say fabric, 32% say pattern and 31% say price. percent look for sales or discounts. percent of sample identify as casual dressers; 24% bought at least one tie within the past month. percent are not sure what to buy, 40% don’t follow trends, 47% find it hard to match ties with outfits.

Richard Carroll from Randa puts in his two cents. “The industry has tunnel vision: most still connect neckwear to suits, to shiny satiny fabrics. I believe ties for young guys need to fit the rest of their wardrobe, which is casual. Seasonal fabrics are key: wool blends, cotton blends. And soft touch fabrics are important: brushed flannel, heathered yarns, Donegal wools, knits; why not

{ TIES } washed chambray ties to go with denim jackets?” A third voice from Randa, Seth Howard, points out that Gen Z is obsessed with heritage and nostalgia and that neckwear is key to creating this look. “Be it florals or deco designs, fashion is driving new purchasing from young customers. I believe the missing element is fun! Selling floors have been too safe.” Neckwear designer Barbara Blank agrees. “Make the neckwear floor exciting! I don’t think men want to see table upon table of ties: I think retailers should merchandise by concept, rather than by color. Then feature a fashion-right tie on a mannequin wearing cool casual clothes, and show similar ties on a display nearby.” Another major tie maker acknowledges that the pie is definitely shrinking. “It’s not just in North America but everywhere. In Italy, once the capital of the neckwear business, you rarely see men wear ties these days. However, individuality and self-expression are becoming more important to consumers so the opportunity is there to create neckwear that reflects different personalities.” (Editor’s note: Different personalities might suggest different tie widths, which seem to have settled between 2 ½ and 3 ¼.) “Neckwear is all about exuding style,” adds designer Ruth Graves. “Bringing back tie business is no easy feat, but who better than the better specialty shops to influence their audience. Men need not just a tie but a great tie! Specialty stores should showcase fabulous creations that are not mass produced. Right now it’s all about unique concepts featuring blends of the finest yarns. Not to sound self-serving but stores should Richard Carroll, Randa show original creative ideas from small brands that are not broadly distributed. Carry limited edition collections. Carry product that’s not available online. Made in the USA is another strong selling point these days that should be marketed as such.” Designer Luciano Moresco, who also reps Dolcepunta neckwear, notes: “There is no better accessory than a tie to send a message of authority, power, confidence, exclusivity and some formality, the degree of which is determined by the selection of the tie itself. The better the tie, the stronger the message.” Dolcepunta’s Massimo Scapellato projects: “My prediction is that men will start to tire of the open shirt and jacket look. (Like when we now comment on fashion from past decades and wonder how people could possibly have dressed like that?) As a tie maker, I’m hoping that men will soon feel an open collar look is too minimal, too empty, at least for those men who regularly wear ties.” “I think too many stores are preaching to the choir,” adds designer Margo Petitti. “They’re buying for older customers who wear ties but they’re not attracting the next generation. I think retailers need to bring in a younger more modern look (I make wool ties in a shape that tapers quickly to a 3 1/8 to 3 ¼ inch bottom but still ties a nice knot; I also use quality tipping). I understand retailers’ reluctance to risk something new with traffic down but they need to take some chances to introduce young guys to neckwear. They don’t want their fathers’ neckties and if we don’t give them something of their own, we lose them.” Bloomingdales’ EVP Dan Leppo concurs: “As a lover of neckwear, I believe we have to treat ties like they matter. There comes a time in every guy’s life when he might want to be taken seriously, and a great tie can accomplish that!” ● PVH

“The industry has tunnel vision: most still connect neckwear to suits, to shiny satiny fabrics. I believe ties for young guys need to fit the rest of their wardrobe, which is casual.

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2017 MR

{ CLOTHING }

Heading for

A SOLID FALL

With no major new trends driving the clothing market, retailers are expecting a decent but unexceptional season. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

o paraphrase Mark Twain, the death of tailored clothing may have been greatly exaggerated, but the industry could be on life support soon if the market doesn’t find a way to get men back in the stores on Overcoats and a more regular basis. suts in subtle “I see no evidence that plaids, as seen in suits are dying altogether,” this outfit by Luigi Bianchi says Dan Farrington, GMM at Mantova, will be Mitchells. “But I don’t believe new additions to the clothing market has premen’s wardrobes this fall. sented the great new trend that will shake up the business. That said, I do think it’s coming soon. And like most men, I’m definitely ready for the next big thing.” Until then, says Farrington, most men are simply filling whatever voids they find in their clothing wardrobe. “I think the reality is that this is just a more sober moment in time, which means men are not buying a lot of clothing or pieces that scream for attention. But they still want at least one great new suit or jacket.” Adds Ronny Wurtzburger, president of Peerless Clothing, USA: “I think retailers will have a decent fall. Younger men are definitely starting to buy more suits and jackets. I am feeling optimistic about the tailored clothing market.”

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Indeed, what will be selling well does appear to vary by market segment. For fall ‘17, Milan-based Pal Zileri showcased suits and jackets with strong patterns, such as houndstooth and chalk stripes, and employed such hues and dark greens, mustard and burnt orange, along with a wide selection of blues. At fellow Italian brand Luigi Bianchi Mantova and sister brand LBM 1911, CEO and style director Giovanni Bianchi notes: “The camel color will have a huge comeback and so will natural palettes. Subtle patterns will be key, as well, such as very light windowpanes that you will only be able to see up close.” Farrington, whose stores do particularly well with such brands as Canali, Zegna, and Brunello Cucinelli, expects to see his customers continue focusing on the status quo, especially when it comes to color and pattern. “We know we need to try to break them out of the blue market, so we’re trying to create some diversity,” he says. “We’ve had decent success with plaids, especially if they’re subtle, and we’re starting to get some call back again for stripes. And in jackets, we had some

{ CLOTHING } success recently with jewel tones, and we’re beginning to see some interest in fancy solids.” Wurtzburger, whose brands often cater to younger customers, also notes the continuing popularity of blue suits. “I think we have like eight different blues on the market. But gray is catching on and brown is beginning to pick up steam. And the younger guys still like having a black suit. Yes, some of our plaids are selling, but not at the same rate as our solids.” The soft jacket also continues to drive sales, says Farrington. “Men realize that they’re very useful when they travel, and look good with jeans or dress pants. It’s almost become like a sweater alternative. In fact, we are seeing more companies trying to innovate with fabrics and create something that travels well. “Men want things that really provide functionality and detail,” he says. Says Wurtzburger: “If you’re not selling tailored clothing that has stretch you might as well stay home. It is they key word retailers want to see.” That sentiment is echoed by Nelson Mui, men’s fashion director at Lord & Taylor. “The tailored market continues to loosen up with soft and unstructured jackets. The dominance of athleisure has impacted the tailored

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New advancements in technology and fabrications are coming through more frequently and now being offered at the mass level.” Nelson Mui, Lord & Taylor

world, so men are now looking for versatile, comfortable looks that are business appropriate, but have functional, sporty elements like hidden pockets and built-in bibs incorporated into them. And fabrications such as non-wrinkle and stretch are key upgrades.” Another item that men of all ages are considering adding to their wardrobe is the overcoat. “The overcoat is getting good play again, although the cut is shorter and slimmer than before,” says Wurtzburger. “The younger customer is wearing it on the weekend, even when he’s not wearing a suit jacket.” Bianchi concurs: “I think the tailored coat will be a must-have piece for fall, especially if it has technical properties like waterrepellent qualities.” Indeed, experts believe that technology will be key to get men really excited about tailored clothing, says Mui. “New advancements in technology and fabrications are coming through more frequently and are now being offered at the mass level,” he notes. Adds Peerless’ Wurtzburger: “We have to give customers reasons to buy. I believe we will start to see a lot of high-tech innovations in tailored clothing in the next 18 months. But we all need to work quickly to get these into the store.” ●

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{ DENIM }

A NEW DAY FOR DENIM

Comfort, color, and coolness are among the watchwords for this fall’s popular trends. BRIAN BY

BY BRIAN LIPTON

he denim market faced a great many challenges in 2016: competition from the athleisure sector (especially the rising popularity of the jogger); the lack of new and exciting styles that would stimulate consumer excitement; and the sad reality that many men are not only wearing the same blue jeans they bought five years ago, some guys still wear the same pair of jeans they wore in college. Fortunately, as denim manufacturers begin to step up their game, and men slowly but surely become more aware of the options in the denim world, the outlook for fall 2017 is looking a great deal brighter, say major retailers and vendors. “Denim is not only becoming more interesting, but men are becoming educated about what they want, whether it’s in terms of fit, style or color,” says Victor Lytvineko, co-founder of Raleigh Denim. In terms of fit, that means the end of the truly skinny jean, which is likely to bring older consumers back to the market. “We’re seeing a more tapered, tailored fit at the bottom, but I wouldn’t call it skinny or slim,” says Lytvineko. “There’s also a small group of people who want a looser, wider leg.” Adds Durand Guion, men’s fashion director at Macy’s, “We are at the very start of a return to looser, fuller silhouettes in denim. But teaching the consumer how to incorporate these styles into his wardrobe will make a difference in how quickly this trend is adopted.” “At the designer level, there’s a lot of creativity going with

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straight-leg cuts, and looser fits are sure to make a splash this year,” adds Nelson Mui, men’s fashion director at Lord & Taylor. Fit aside, more men of all ages are seeking comfort, which means adding stretch to traditional fabrics. A touch of elastane (aka spandex) can be found in the most popular fit sold by upscale brand 34 Heritage, notes Richard Binder, vice president of sales. “Men are really responding to stretch,” he notes. “People want to be comfortable and cozy if they’re at home, and especially if they’re traveling,” adds Lytvineko. “Even people who ask us for traditional raw denim usually buy at least one pair with stretch once they try it on. Sometimes, we just have to put a pair in the dressing room without telling them, since some men are afraid to ask about stretch. I’m not sure if they don’t know it exists or they just think it’s a female thing.” New performance fabrics are constantly being worked on as well. Teen retailer Hollister recently debuted its CoolMax All-Season fabric in partnership with Cordura, which moves moisture away from the body no matter the weather. Adds Cindy McNaull, global brand and marketing director for Cordura: “The future of denim is all about performance, whether it’s overt or covert. As consumers, we are pushing ourselves more and more and, as a result, our clothing needs to helps facilitate our diverse, performance-driven lifestyle.” The denim color palette is definitely expanding as well, with 34 Heritage adding colors like burgundy to their assortment, and Raleigh offering greens, lighter blues and other non-traditional shades. “Men everywhere already own the basic blue jean; they don’t need to buy five more pairs of the same pant,” says Lytvineko. “But they will spend on more specialized denim or editorial pieces. That’s why we have close to 50 SKUs for fall.” One can also expect to see a whole variety of washes and details across the market; even if, in some cases, what looks new really means “old.” Says Macy’s Guion: “Nothing ever really disappears. The repaired, distressed and ripped finishing on denim will continue into 2017. In addition, bleaching effects, sandblasting and overdyes will echo the 1990s vibe with new interpretations.” ● CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Companies as diverse as 34 Heritage, Cone Mills and Raleigh Denim are all finding that men want a bit of stretch in their jeans.

{ RETAILING }

CAVEAT EMPTOR?

Department stores continue to expand into the off-price world by growing their outlet concepts. But it’s a slippery slope. Could this seemingly smart business move ultimately destroy their credibility? Or do desperate times call for discounted measures? BY CHRISTOPHER BLOMQUIST

o get a sense of just how much the off-price retail landscape and the consumer and industry-insider perception of this sector has changed in recent years, consider this anecdote that a longtime outlet buyer, who cannot be quoted on record due to confidentiality agreements with her previous and current employers, shared as I researched this story: “At the beginning of my career I was in Seattle for Preline [a former trade show that folded in 1992]. They used to get limousine shuttles to take us between the different offices. I got into the limousine with some buyers from a Midwest department store – I don’t even remember the name – and we were just casually chatting and they asked me where I worked. I told them [the name of a famous national discount chain] and you could have cut the air with a knife. They froze and became so rude. You could almost see them looking down their noses at me.” Chuckling aloud at that memory, she adds: “Today, that would

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never happen. Consumers shop across all channels and most are just looking for the best deals. So department stores really need to adapt to that.” And they have! Despite bleak overall financial reports and the forthcoming shuttering of many mainline branches, such as the 100 doors soon getting axed by Macy’s, there has been a proliferation of off-price spinoff expansion in the department store world. Majors from Nordstrom and Saks to Bloomingdale’s and Neiman Marcus all operate a web of seemingly very successful brick-andmortar – not to mention online – outlets. Nordstrom Rack stores, for instance, which were first launched by the Seattle-based retail giant in 1973 as a clearance center, now outnumber the full-line doors by 215 to 123 and Nordstrom says it plans to rapidly expand the number of Racks to 300 by 2020. Likewise, Hudson’s Bay Co.’s Saks Inc. is also in the midst of growing its Saks OFF 5TH concept, especially in Canada. “In

{ RETAILING }

I believe the trend to outlets will continue: existing stores will add more and new stores will jump in.” Walter Loeb, retail analyst

2016, we entered the country and opened nine stores. We’ve an- partment Store Meltdown? Or a Bumpy Transformation?” about nounced plans to open up to 25 stores across Canada in the com- this phenomenon and how it is a result of the ongoing imbalance ing years, which includes the nine we opened in 2016,” says of supply versus demand: “This [over-supply], of course, forces the Jonathan Greller, president of Outlets at Hudson’s Bay Co. “The counter-productive path of least resistance: price promoting and stores are located in malls and outlet shopping centers. In 2017, discounting of all types – including the opening of outlet and offwe will continue to open new locations across Canada, including price stores. The insane ‘race to the bottom’ not only adds to the over-supply, it accelerates price deflation and devaluation of the our first stores in Quebec.” And that’s not even mentioning the fact that Macy’s recently nameplate brands.” Lewis isn’t the only person in the retail world to approach added its Backstage discount concept inside its full-price locations and said in an otherwise depressing January 2017 press re- these off-price appendanges with some skepticism. “Of course a lease that it will insert 50 more to extant Macy’s branches. Or ‘poor man's’ Saks, Macy's or Nordstrom will attract bargain that Neiman Marcus now operates two off-price models: 29 Last hunters, but their purchases will be missing the added value ‘experience’ you should get at the Call stores, which carry mothership,” adds renowned “reoverstock from the mother tail futurist” Howard Saunders, shops, and 13 Last Call Stuwho pens the retail blog dios, which sell merchan22and5.com. dise that vendors make “Worse, most of us know specifically for these outthat an increasing number of lets. the products are ‘outlet only,’ in Walter F. Loeb, the head Jonathan Greller, president of outlets, Hudsons Bay Co. a sense displaying the ‘poor of retail management conman’ badge from day one, sulting firm Loeb Associates rather than the savvy ‘loophole’ Inc. and a frequent writer for magazines, prognosticates that this trend of department stores one,” he adds. “And with the transparency that social media brings to everything it touches, one has to ask how long this can diving into the discount pool will only increase. “I believe the trend to shop outlets will continue: existing last.” However, Greller of Hudson’s Bay disagrees with these views stores will expand and new stores will jump in,” he projects. “Many customers today are on a budget and value-oriented, particularly and says that Saks OFF 5th shoppers rarely overlap with Saks Fifth the millennial customer who doesn’t want to own very much and Avenue ones. “The Saks OFF 5TH customer is focused on the thrill who spends less money on clothing. This trend is causing the suc- of the deal. Our off-price shoppers are looking for designer brands at a great value. They come to Saks OFF 5TH to find the latest cess of these stores.” endors certainly share this assessment. For example, trends while looking for that special deal they will tell their friends Nathan Romano, co-owner of the swim, active and RTW about.” Loeb believes that coexistence between the two models is ultibrand Onia, which sells to both “regular” Nordstrom and Nordstrom Rack (it sells its higher-priced contemporary label mately symbiotic, which is one of the reasons why these off-price Onia to the former and supplies the latter with exclusive prints spinoffs are no longer limited to outlet malls. Indeed, they are now and designs from its mid-tier Trunks brand), agrees with Loeb’s more likely to appear within walking distance of a regular store, much like the Bloomingdale’s Outlet flagship that opened on Manprediction. “I definitely see a rise in the off-price department store world,” hattan’s Upper West Side (not far from the company’s world-fahe says. “They are creating innovative ways of marketing and spe- mous 59th Street flagship) in November 2015. “In the case of Macy’s, [Backstage] has added to the traffic in cial product to target younger shoppers. And they’re both developing their own product and buying designer product made their stores. In the case of the Rack, Nordstrom feels that even if specifically for their stores, all at value pricing. So it’s a win-win. it is close to their main store that the sales have been enhanced for both locations. If there is more foot traffic in the area, more They get the status brand and they get the great pricing.” But this rising tide still begs serious business questions about customers come and visit them,” says Loeb. Sandi Jaffe, a sales rep for the men’s sportswear brand Tokyo the fates of these retail giants. Are these burgeoning discount business models a practical, permanent salve that will ultimately ben- Laundry, notes that the appeal or shunning of outlets – whether efit the beloved yet often beleaguered matriarchs? Or are they a by end consumers or vendors – ultimately comes down to, like alkind of tourniquet that will stem the bleeding for now but ulti- most everything else in fashion and retail, perceived image. “Sometimes it’s a positioning thing,” she says. “It’s a lot better to be in a mately cut off circulation to the treasured “nameplate” stores? Robin Lewis, author of “The Robin Report,” suggests the latter Saks OFF 5th as opposed to Marshalls.” Perhaps. But try telling that to Wall Street! in an article he published in a January 2017 called “The Great De●

“Saks OFF 5th shoppers rarely overlap with Saks Fifth Avenue ones.”

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2017 MR

{ TRENDS }

WHAT’S NEXT?

Menswear creative director of Fashion Snoops, Michael Fisher, tells us the top five macrotrends that will affect business this year. BY STEPHEN GARNER

SERGEISIMONOV / SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.

ANGELINA DIMITROVA / SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.

There’s no doubt that the industry has changed drastically from this time last year. Following a year in which several large players made big strides on the web, traditional brick-and-mortar retailers didn’t fare as well. With store closures coming from Macy’s, Sears, and Kohl’s, the major department stores of yore are already having a tough start to 2017. Knowing this, we enlisted Michael Fisher, the menswear creative director at trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops, to find out the top five macrotrends that will affect business and retail in the year ahead. Here Fisher breaks down what we need to know about each.

New Luxury: The definition of luxury is changing. Lux- Nowstalgia: ury means more than logos and expensive cars. Today luxury is attainable to everyone in the form of clever design, intuitive products, quiet moments and simple clever spaces. Over the past five years we have seen a rise in sleek spaces, a boom in the fitness industry, and an increased demand for quality and sustainable design. Genuine quality is important in all of our goods — from supporting local designers to natural materials, the idea of a lasting product is more important than a good deal. We are in an era where stripping away the excess and focusing on ease and clever design is the luxury.

MR FEBRUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

This represents looking at the past through the lens of today. There's a whole generation of consumers who appreciate a simpler time and seek out brands that embrace everything about their glory days — all while finding novel ways to move the classics forward. At a moment when we are more innovative than ever, and everyone is constantly obsessed with the future, a grounded connection to the past gives us a feeling of familiarity and safety. Heritage brands remain important as pinnacle market shareholders, however, they need to continue to modernize their expression of their heritage story to stay relevant to younger generations. Nowstalgia has no problems with acknowledging that

{ TRENDS }

WILL RODRIGUES / SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.

some things may have actually been better before, and it finds ways to partner with present day icons of cool to connect seemingly different demographics. This is all accomplished with a wink of the eye, a sense of humor and an open adoration of yesterday.

entrepreneurship continues to rise, and start-ups are attracting many ambitious and bright minds to century-old institutions. Traditional job roles are also changing; there is a new leader in town, the new creative. Individuals with more diverse areas of study or a wide range of work experience across multiple industries are in high demand. Collaboration is at the forefront of business with industry walls falling to reveal unlikely partnerships. Urbanization is a factor of industry change. For the first time in history, more than half of the world's population resides in cities, and that number is expected to double by 2050.

SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.

new life into music, sport, fashion, travel and art. Today is about the "makers," a subculture of influencers, inventors, tech geeks, artists and designers who, when given the right tools and inspiration, have the potential to change the world. As boundaries lose their significance, opportunities open, especially true in travel. The more the world opens up, the more culture, history, and materials we have to make something new. New role models are emerging who are great examples of hyperculture. By mixing high-brow and low-brow culture in their artwork and music, the result is provocative perplexity. At the heart of Energize is the yearning for something new.

Industry Disrupt:

The old guard has fallen, and the new guard is ready to do things differently. The face of the workforce is changing. CEOs are in their late twenties and thirties,

SoWhat Now? Fisher on what this all means and how to adapt to the changing world.

What influences these trends? Literally everything affects these larger shifts in culture. Of course, the world's overall feeling post-election and postBrexit has had a big part in the pivoting of these trends. What changes can retailers and brands expect to see this year in the

buying habits of consumers? We as an agency are optimistic going into 2017. I know that sounds surprising given the alienation everyone has felt in the country since the election for President last November. However, studying similar times in history, we're forecasting a coming era of creativity like we've never seen before. People will be using technology to get their creative voices out into the universe, while others will be learning passed-down

FIO CRACHO / SHUTTERSTOCK, INC.

Energize: The younger consumers of today are bringing

Inter-connectivity:

The on-demand economy of today and the businesses within it are empowering a consumer revolution. Our lives are inter-connected and in a constant stream. To be part of these movements, businesses need to seamlessly place themselves in the flow of the consumers' daily lives — easy access is everything. We are a spoiled society, with all our wants and needs available at the click of a button and it’s impossible to go back. Communication methods are also in overload in this digital age. The average person has at least a dozen apps on their phone that allow them to stay connected with people. We find ourselves in never-ending conversations. At the root of these companies is innovation, from new energy sources to hyper-personal digital experiences, the market is saturated with companies focusing on making our lives more convenient. Inter-Connectivity on all fronts is the future; A.I. continues to advance, technology is increasingly integrated in everyday products, and electronics have become covetable design objects. Brace yourself: the digital age has barely begun. ●

trades from the modern version of the "village elder.” Plus, a renewed focus on products made-in-the-USA are on all of our radars. Consumers will react to the greater mood of the country, and there will be a positive reaction. How can companies and brands adapt to these changes? More than anything, companies and brands must be humble in their approach to business. We think

transparency is he most important element of doing business in 2017. Who's behind the company and its decisions? How do they do business, and what is their philosophy? What will they do to make the world a better place, no matter how big or small? These are the questions savvy consumers demand to know. Social media is a big part of that; it's how they can keep the dialogue going with their customers and keep them loyal to the mission statement.

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2017 MR

BY MICHAEL MACKO. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MENELIK PURYEAR

OUTERWEAR 2017:

Fall 2017 outerwear is ruggedly handsome, deceivingly technical and is rich in texture, color and pattern. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been warmed.

OPPOSITE PAGE: COAT BURTON BIB PANTS FJALLRAVEN GOGGLES ANON THIS PAGE: BLAZER AND SWEATSHIRT BROWN ALLAN PANTS AND HAT FAHERTY BLANKET PENDLETON X LL BEAN GLOVES OLIVER SPENCER SUNGLASSES PORSCHE DESIGN BOOTS NATIVE SHOES

SWEATER NEVE BIB PANTS FJALLRAVEN GLOVES AND BACKPACK BARBOUR HAT AND PILLOW LL BEAN

ON LEFT: JACKET SCOTCH & SODA PANTS MAX â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;N CHESTER HAT FAHERTY ON RIGHT: JACKET NOBIS SHIRT SCOTCH & SODA PANTS NANTUCKET CASTAWAY HAT LL BEAN SUNGLASSES PORSCHE DESIGN

COAT BERETTA PANTS LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING SHIRT MAX ‘N CHESTER BLANKET PENDLETON HAT OLIVER SPENCER GLOVES HESTRA

LEFT: JACKET AETHER APPAREL, PAJAMA PANTS STRATTON MOUNTAIN CLOTHING STORE, BLANKET PENDLETON. MIDDLE: BATHING SUITS VILEBREQUIN, BLANKET AND HAT ON LEFT PENDLETON, BOOTS HUNTER, HAT ON RIGHT FJALLRAVEN. RIGHT: COAT BERETTA, SWEATSHIRT SCOTCH & SODA, JEANS OVADIA & SONS, NECK WARMER PENDLETON. ON MIDDLE: SWEATER & PANTS FAHERTY, SHIRT BERETTA, HAT PENDLETON. ON RIGHT: COAT RAINFOREST, JEANS LEVIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S, HENLEY AND HAT BROWN ALLAN.

ON LEFT: JACKET 32 DEGREES SKI PANTS BURTON BOOTS UGG HAT STRATTON MOUNTAIN CLOTHING STORE ON RIGHT: JACKET HAWKE & CO BIB PANTS FJALLRAVEN HAT PENDLETON GOGGLES SMITH

ON LEFT: COAT SAILORS & BRIDES PANTS SCOTCH & SODA BOOTS NATIVE SHOES HAT LL BEAN ON RIGHT: ANORAK HAWKE & CO WITH BURKMAN BROS PANTS LEVIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAT AND HEADBAND (AROUND NECK) LL BEAN

PRODUCED AND STYLED BY MICHAEL MACKO; PHOTOGRAPHED BY MENELIK PURYEAR; MODELS: CARLTON RUTH/SOUL ARTIST MANAGEMENT; LOUIS MAYHEW/DNA MODEL MANAGEMENTMIKES; FRANK/NEW YORK MODEL; GROOMING: MICHAEL JOHNSON/FACTORY DOWNTOWN; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: KYLE LIEBERMAN; VIDEOGRAPHY: CHANTZ MARCUS; CASTING: ROGER INNISS, BOOM PRODUCTIONS INC.

LEFT: JACKET HAWKE & CO WITH BURKMAN BROS, HAT HOWLIN BY MORRISON, PANTS AETHER APPAREL, SUNGLASSES PORSCHE DESIGN. MIDDLE: ON LEFT: JACKET SCOTCH & SODA, PANTS MAX ‘N CHESTER, POUCH DEN & DELVE; ON RIGHT: JACKET NOBIS, SHIRT SCOTCH & SODA, PANTS NANTUCKET CAWAY, BAG BARBOUR; RIGHT: COAT NOBIS X BLACK, SNOW PANTS BURTON, VEST NANTUCKET CASTAWAY, SHIRT SLEEPY JONES, HAT LL BEAN, BOOTS UGG.

COAT WEATHERPROOF® VINTAGE HAT FJALLRAVEN PANTS AETHER APPAREL SHIRT MAX ‘N CHESTER BANDANA BARBOUR Thank you to Stratton Mountain Resort for generously hosting us on this photo shoot. A very special thanks to Cassandra Russo for coordinating everything and taking care of us. Visit them at: www.stratton.com

FEB 21–23, 2017

UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

WELCOME TO LAS VEGAS! FEBRUARY 2123, 2017

Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday Mandalay Bay & Las Vegas Convention Centers, Las Vegas We’re a big show, we know that, but just as Las Vegas and New York are big cities, the way you navigate through them is by neighborhoods. So, we’ve broken down a big show into smaller shows, sections and, yes, neighborhoods. You want outerwear, we have a section for that! Need to know what’s happening in performance, we’ve got you! We even have the latest technology that is making fashion faster and smarter. Enjoy exploring! With ﬁve men’s-focused market covering everything from luxury to lifestyle brands, fast fashion to high fashion, and children’s to menswear collections, MAGIC’s men’s shows cover every price point and fashion audience. MAGIC Men’s shows are merchandised with today’s retailer in mind. Not only are they designed to shop, but also to experience each unique and dynamic fashion community. PROJECT inﬂuences the market with its renowned collection of contemporary apparel and footwear, while THE COLLECTIVE houses mass-market leaders with men’s and young men’s branded and licensed apparel. If it’s up-and-coming designers or unconventional collections you’re after, look no further than POOLTRADESHOW, fashion’s top breeding ground for art-inspired fashion and accessories. Or, immerse yourself in luxury at The TENTS, a juried platform for elevated and contemporary men’s designers. FN PLATFORM, the global showcase for branded footwear, rounds out the incredible apparel selection with every category of men’s shoes from athletic to formal.

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

KNOW WHERE TO GO MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER MAP:

LVCC

LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER MAP:

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

COMPLIMENTARY SHUTTLE SERVICE RT

BOARDING LOCATION

ARIA Resort & Casino

Tour Bus Loading Area

Bellagio

Tour Bus Loading Area

Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas

Tour Bus Loading Area

Courtyard Marriott – LVCC

Walking Distance to LVCC

Delano Las Vegas

Walking Distance to MBCC

Embassy Suites LVCC

Walking Distance to LVCC

Encore at Wynn Las Vegas

At Wynn Las Vegas

HOTEL SHUTTLES | ROUTES 1-7

HOTEL NAME

Service between ofﬁcial MAGIC hotels and the Las Vegas Convention Center (LVCC) and the Mandalay Bay Convention Center (MBCC). SERVICE TO LVCC & MBCC MONDAY* TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY

8:30 AM  12:30 PM 7:30 AM  11:00 AM 7:30 AM  11:00 AM 7:30 AM  11:00 AM

RETURN TO HOTELS FROM LVCC 3:30 PM  6:30 PM 3:30 PM  7:15 PM 3:30 PM  7:00 PM 3:00 PM  7:00 PM

RETURN TO HOTELS FROM MBCC  3:30 PM  7:00 PM 3:30 PM  7:00 PM 3:00 PM  6:00 PM

Four Seasons Las Vegas

Walking Distance to MBCC

*Service is provided to/from the LVCC North Hall only.

Hilton Grand Vacations LVCC

Curbside on Karen Ave. (LVCC only)

MBCC/LVCC EXPRESS | ROUTE 8

Las Vegas Marriott

Walking Distance to LVCC

Express service between the MBCC & LVCC.

Luxor Las Vegas

Walking Distance to MBCC

MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY

Mandalay Bay

Walking Distance to MBCC

EVERY 5 MINUTES

BOARDING LOCATIONS

Mandarin Oriental

Aria Tour Bus Loading Area

8:30 AM  6:30 PM 8:00 AM  7:15 PM 8:00 AM  7:00 PM 8:00 AM  7:00 PM

MBCC: Shark Reef Entrance LVCC: Grand Plaza & South Hall 2

MGM Grand

Grand Garden Entrance

Mirage

North Entrance

Monte Carlo

Tour Bus Loading Area

New York New York

Valet Entrance

Renaissance Las Vegas

Walking Distance to LVCC

Residence Inn – LVCC

Walking Distance to LVCC

Signature at MGM Grand

Grand Garden Entrance

SLS Las Vegas

Tour Bus Loading Area (LVCC only)

Treasure Island

Tour Bus Loading Area

Tropicana Las Vegas

North Entrance

Trump Hotel Las Vegas

Curbside on Fashion Show Dr.

Vdara Hotel & Spa

Tour Bus Loading Area

W Hotel

SLS Las Vegas Tour Bus Loading Area (LVCC only)

Westgate Las Vegas

Walking Distance to LVCC

Wynn Las Vegas

South Gate Bus Area

THE LOOP AT THE LVCC | ROUTE 9 Service to ﬁve (5) key locations around the LVCC campus.

MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY

EVERY 5 MINUTES

BOARDING LOCATIONS AT LVCC

11:30 AM  6:30 PM 8:00 AM  7:00 PM 8:00 AM  7:00 PM 8:00 AM  7:00 PM

Stop 1: South Hall 1 Bus Area Stop 2: Grand Plaza Entrance Stop 3: North Road Stop 4: Central Hall 5 Entrance Stop 5: South Hall 2 Entrance

LVCC GOLF CART SERVICE Convenient service between South Halls 1 & 2 and Central Halls. Carts will be operational on Tuesday and Wednesday from 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM and Thursday from 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM.

COMPLIMENTARY AIRPORT SHUTTLE SERVICE Airport service will be provided from the LVCC and MBCC on Thursday from 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM, hourly on the hour. Shuttle depart the South Hall 1 and Grand Plaza Entrances of the LVCC, and the Shark Reef Entrance of the MBCC.

For hotel shuttle or special needs information, please call 877.899.0986. The shuttle ofﬁce is open 30 minutes prior to and after the daily shuttle schedule.

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

MACEOO

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

DOCKERS

PROJECT is the premier contemporary fashion event exhibiting men’s advanced contemporary, premium denim, and designer collections. This expertly merchandised men’s fashion experience allows retailers to accessorize their menswear collections in one place, at one time.

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

TOMMY BAHAMA

NAUTICA

HAPPY SOCKS

An exciting assortment of brands that embody the relaxed, effortless and adventurous spirit of coastal living. GOORIN BROS.

BRANDS: 7 Diamonds Age of Wisdom Calvin Klein Cutter & Buck Fossil Group Goorin Bros. Happy Socks Indian Motorcycle 1901 JACHS NY Johnnie-O Kennington Mizzen + Main

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

Nautica Original Paperbacks Perry Ellis Southern Tide The Park Showroom Toes on the Nose Tommy Bahama Vestige Brand Vineyard Vines Von Dutch + more!

DENIM PROJECT’s Denim category houses the industry’s leading brands in not only denim, but everything that accompanies it including tops, accessories, and footwear.

BRANDS: 34 Heritage 7 For All Mankind AG Adriano Goldschmeid Blank NYC DL1961 Driftwood Dockers Hudson Jeans IVI Vision Joe’s Jeans Kenton Michael MAVI

34 HERITAGE

Level 7 Levi’s Lucky Brand Jeans Mavi PAIGE Robert Graham Robin’s Jean Rock Revival Silver Jeans Slate Denim William Rast + more!

OUTERWEAR Whether you’re hitting the slopes or just trying to stay warm and remain stylish, our Outerwear section at PROJECT presents an assembly of brands that can keep you covered up all year-round.

BRANDS:

FJALLRAVEN

Artextyl Barbour Canadian Sweater No Excess Fjallraven Free Country Geographical Norway Hawke & Co. HFX JOTT Kanata Hand Knits Kuhl

Moose Knuckles Nobis Noize Orobos Pajar Outerwear Pendleton Rainforest Save the Duck Superdry Weatherproof Outerwear Woolrich White + more!

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

MOVE highlight’s not only activewear brands, but those that use performance as the core of their missions statements.

BRANDS: Strongbody Apparel Sweat Tailor TASC Performance + more!

STRONGBODY APPAREL

ACTIVEWEAR A compilation of brands meant for the man focused on keeping active, staying in shape, and maintaining a healthy lifestyle.

BRANDS: 2(x)ist Alternative Beach Body Saxx + more!

MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

PRINCE & BOND

MARIO LATORRE

HOMMARD

Vanguards Gallery is a curated selection of new and emerging brands who are soon to be the next big thing in menswear.

BRANDS: Antonio Manuel De Sousa Cockpit USA Harrington Hommard Jay Stephan Mario Latorre Mellow People Meyer-MMX

Mission Merchantile Prince & Bond Q by Flynt Res Ipsa Ted Baker London Wood Underwear + more!

WOOD UNDERWEAR

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

DANIEL WELLINGTON

FRENCH CONNECTION

LINDA FARROW

TED BAKER LONDON

CONTEMPORARY

An unrivaled collection of the top trend-setters and innovators who are continually evolving with the fashion industry.

BRANDS: MACKAGE

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

Bugatchi Uomo Daniel Hechter Sportswear Daniel Wellington Fidelity French Connection Japan Leather Industries Association Jeremiah Linda Farrow Mackage

Mauritius Nifty Genius Psycho Bunny Robert Barakett Rodd & Gunn Slate & Stone Spinnaker Tailor Vintage Ted Baker London + more!

SPORTSWEAR From casual and comfortable, to clean-cut and buttoned-up, and everything in between. Find the apparel and accessories that keeps the modern man looking sharp.

BRANDS:

CALVIN KLEIN

A Fish Named Fred Andrew Fezza Blujacket Brax Feel Good Bruun & Stengade Bugatti Calvin Klein Tailored DKNY James Tattersall Lambretta Maceoo

Nick Graham Peerless Clothing Randa Accessories Regency by LaMarque Rich Friday Roffe Accessories St. Croix Tallia Orange Thomas Dean + more!

BRUUN & STENGADE

LOUNGEWEAR Our Loungewear area showcases the best in basics, swimwear and casual lifestyle apparel. After all, it’s the root of every wardrobe.

BRANDS: 2EROS 2UNDR Calvin Klein Underwear Cocksox Danny Miami Gregg Homme Isaco Jack Adams 2EROS

Junk Underjeans Kingston Lounge Now MyPakage Papi Perry Ellis Supawear Tribe Australia + more!

CALVIN KLEIN

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

Featuring the ﬁnest brands that Italy has to offer, Made in Italy showcases the craftsmanship that borders on art when it comes to making apparel and accessories.

BRANDS:

LORENZONI

20 Grammi/Venti Grammi Andrea Bossi - Ital Wear Autocratic Vogue Italy Di Bello by Nipal Fly3 G. Manzoni Gimo’s Impulso

Italo Ferretti Lorenzoni Marchesi di Como Montechiaro OOO - Out of Order Paolo Albizzati Zenobi + more!

A brand new show ﬂoor area dedicated to techbased solutions in design, product development, merchandising, and selling.

COMPANIES: Fashwire Netsuite Spin My Planet Yotpo + more!

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

REMY LEATHER

HOGARTH

TORRAS

PANTHERELLA

TAILORED & FURNISHINGS

PROJECT’s Tailored and Furnishings section presents an exclusive assortment of classic and updated tailored suits, shirts and accessories.

BRANDS: Baroni Canaletto Christopher Lena Daniel Hechter Edward Armah Enro Enzone Hogarth Ibiza Ike Behar

International Laundry Jack Victor Lanier Clothes Pantherella PVH Remy Leather Stetson Outdoor Hats Tiglio Torras + more!

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

DANIEL WON COLLECTION

LIFE AFTER DENIM

JAGVI

BRANDS:

Presented in an elevated environment, THE TENTS serves as a focused platform for the top luxury and designer, contemporary men’s and dual-gender labels to convene for the most inspiring shopping experience in market. By bringing together the most prominent brands, retailers and press, THE TENTS creates an unmatched vision of the high-end contemporary marketplace.

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

Arcady CLOSED Colmar Originals CP Company Daniel Won Collection Derek Rose Drake’s London Engineered for Motion Haspel Hook & Albert life/after/denim Max ’N Chester Michael Bastian Onia Paraboot Parajumpers Raleigh Denim Ring Jacket Robert Comstock Quartz Co. Soia & Kyo Tateossian Vince. W. Kleinberg W.R.K + more!

MNKR

SLOW LORIS

NO & YO

BRANDS: POOLTRADESHOW has been the top breeding ground for emerging fashion brands seeking retail customers for 15 years. Taking place twice a year at MAGIC Las Vegas, it’s where buyers scout fresh new items made speciﬁcally for the boutique market. This juried, carefully merchandised show features everything from unique men’s and women’s apparel, to accessories, apothecary and stationary.

Cali Good Life Choke Shirt Co. Civil Standard CRSHR Curbside Encore Apparel The Fiftees Foldies Goodie Two Sleeves Gumball Poodle Headline Shirts Hips and Hair In God We Must Local Boogeyman MNKR Next Level Apparel NO&YO Olan Rogers Supply OppoSuits The Poster List Social Decay Sock it to Me These Are Things Tote + Able Viper Room + more!

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

NORTH 56 °

THE COLLECTIVE showcases everything from classic collections to lifestyle-driven and licensed apparel for men and young men. As a uniﬁed men’s fashion platform, THE COLLECTIVE gives buyers unparalleled access to the rapidly growing men’s and young men’s market.

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

RIPPLE JUNCTION

BIOWORLD MERCHANDISING

LICENSING

A one-of-a-kind shopping experience that houses apparel and accessory companies whose products feature licenses from television, music, movies, entertainment, pop culture and more. HYP HOISERY B.B DESIGNS

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

BRANDS: B.B. Designs Bioworld Merchandising Buckle-down C-Life Group Changes Dorfman-Paciﬁc Fifth Sun Forever Collectibles Freeze Hyp Hosiery Isaac Morris

Laid-Back Lee Schneider & Associates Liquid Blue Live Nation Merchandise Mad Engine Mighty Fine Proﬁle Ent. Ripple Junction Surreal Entertainment + more!

YOUNG MEN’S

A group of trend-driven lifestyle apparel, accessory and footwear brands that feed the burgeoning young men’s market.

BRANDS: Allsize Company Aquarius Beautiful Giant Bella + Canvas BODY X Distortion ECKO Unltd. Jordan Outdoor Ent. Mizumi Collection Money Ruins Everything Ocean Current PIPELINE

MIZUMI COLLECTION

PONY PSD Underwear Replika Jeans Rise as One Rocawear Rothco Royal Blue Apparel STRGHT Umbro Zoo York + more!

TRADITIONAL MEN’S Inspired by tradition, our selection of classic menswear brands exemplify the sharp, professional look your customer wants at a manageable price point.

BRANDS:

LONDON FOG

JMP BY BOHIO

Belvedere Diversiﬁed Apparel Giovanni Testi Gruppo Bravo Hook & Tackle Imani Uomo JMP by Bohio London Fog Renoir Silversilk Sorento

Spazio Statement Clothing Status Men’s Steven Land Suits America Vannucci Verse 9 Neckwear Weekender Zota + more!

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

JERUSALEM SANDALS

HUNTER

CREATIVE

JOHNSTON & MURPHY

OLUKAI

CONHPOL

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

This international showcase is the pillar of branded footwear featuring men’s, women’s, juniors’ and children’s footwear brands from more than 20 countries. Offering six merchandised environments from luxury to lifestyle, FN PLATFORM provides buyers with a convenient and efﬁcient way to shop the most comprehensive selection of international footwear.

BRANDS: Aquatalia Birkenstock Camper Chippewa Clarks Originals Cole Haan Creative Rec Eastland Hudson J Shoes Keds Johnston & Murphy Kenneth Cole

PARC CITY BOOTS

Mezlan Paladium Pintta Shoe Passion Sperry Steve Madden Swims Ten Points Timberland Trask Vlado + more!

NEIGHBORHOODS:

LUXURY FOOTWEAR COLLECTIONS

FLORSHEIM

CASUAL LIFESTYLE AND ADVANCED CONTEMPORARY FOOTWEAR

BESPOKE FOOTWEAR FOR THE MODERN MAN

Footwear at PROJECT: Footwear brands are dispersed throughout the show ﬂoor in like-minded neighborhoods allowing full head-to-toe styling and efﬁcient shopping.

BRANDS: Bed|Stu Frye Hunter Boots Old Gringo OluKai

Parc City Boot Res Ipsa Sorel TOMS + more!

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

TH E 2 4 / 7 on line fa shio n tr a de s ho w

We bring the Biggest names in fashion to you

Shop the brands of magic at your convenience, at home or on the road. Speak to a ShopTheFloor specialist or visit s h o p t h efloo r . co m t o g e t s ta r t e d .

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

THE 24/7 ONLINE FASHION TRADESHOW ShopTheFloor is UBM Fashion Group’s online fashion marketplace, featuring over 300 of the top menswear brands in the market today. Retailers can discover and engage with exciting new Men’s brands with a click of a button. ShopTheFloor’s seasonal trend reports also help to ensure buyers are in tune with the latest trends. This season, we are excited to be partnering with top menswear retailers ULAH, AB FITS, Need Supply, Lizard Lounge and SprezzaBox to curate head-to-toe looks for Autumn/Winter 2017. Visit ShopTheFloor before, during and after the show to view these looks and to help streamline your wholesale shopping experience.

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

There’s no better place to experience a fashion event that’s larger than life than MAGIC, and in true Vegas fashion, MAGIC is more than just fashion—it’s entertainment. Attendees get access to a full schedule of parties, concerts, seminars, and even celebrity appearances. Head to ubmfashion.com for full details and schedules.

PANELS & SEMINARS The MAGIC Seminar Series brings you the most accomplished and successful thought leaders in fashion. Whether you’re looking to build your digital presence, master e-mail marketing, or forecast next season’s bestselling trends, MAGIC has the fashion class for you at either venue.

LIVE MODEL PRESENTATIONS POOL PARTY

Start your week off the right way at the POOLTRADESHOW Opening Night Party on Tuesday, February 21 from 6 to 8 PM at the Foundation Room. Known to be one of the more eclectic parties, there’s music bumping from 90’s R&B to the chart topping hits of the 2000’s, an out of this world view of the Las Vegas strip, not to mention it’s always a good time to meet, chat over drinks, and celebrate the season.

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

Get the IRL perspective of brands from PROJECT at our live model presentations. Produced and styled by industry experts and renowned menswear stylists, this season’s on-site 45-minute fashion presentations will take place in the center of the show ﬂoor.

PROJECT PARTY

Celebrate with us at the party of the season - The Ofﬁcial PROJECT Party will be at LIGHT Night Club in Mandalay Bay featuring Metro Boomin. With the reputation of being one of MAGIC’s biggest parties, this one never disappoints, especially with its killer tunes and epic headliners. Bring your badge for admittance, the earlier the better, and dress to impress: no hats, t-shirts or sneakers. Doors open at 10:30 PM.

HAPPY HOUR

THE EDIT

P1VOT

Join us for the happiest of hours for complimentary cocktails and conversation at various show ﬂoor bars throughout MAGIC. You never know who you might meet!

Stay one step ahead of the market. THE EDIT showcases the trends of the season with styled vignettes on mannequins using product from the brands at the show.

From panels and workshops, to fashion tech innovators and disruptors, P1V0T can help propel the industry forward with its array of associated learning opportunities surrounding the platform.

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

#BLOGGERPROJECT

Since 2011, PROJECT and Marcus Troy have been providing brands and digital editors with a unique opportunity to meet and engage, to shoot and share content, to create and explore, to build new relationships. Over the past six years, we have worked with countless digital editors, providing a platform for their growth, while supporting our brands with a special opportunity to cultivate one on one relationships.

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 21ď&#x161;ş23, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

DON’T MISS THESE BLOGGERS IN VEGAS:

MARCUS TROY

Marcustroy.com @marcustroy

FRANCIS KENNETH

Franciskenneth.com @franciskenneth

THE POSHMAN

Theposhman.ca @theposhman

TALUN ZEITOUN

Talunzeitoun.com @talunzeitoun

DENNY 623

Dennybalmaceda.com @denny623

NASKADEMINI

Naskademini.com @naskademini

RULE OF THUMBS

Theruleofthumbs.com @rule_of_thumbs

TY SEVERE

Tysevere.com @tysevere

EVERYDAY DREW

Everydaydrew.com @everydaydrew

NOVELTY REPORT

Noveltyreport.com @xxjmitch

SAM WHITE OUT

Samwhiteout.com @samwhiteout

WE ARE NOMADS

Weare-nomads.com @wearenomads_

LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

BRANDSTAGRAMABLE /brand - sta - gram - ābəl / (adjective) A brand that is totally “Instagramable”

SOUTHPOLE

STETSON

@southpolebrand 88 posts 10k followers 2,265 following

@stetsonusa 1,038 posts 42.3k followers 540 following

Find them at: THE COLLECTIVE

Find them at: PROJECT

STRONG BODY

@strongbodyapparel 230 posts 7,009 followers 1,522 following Find them at: MOVE

ZOO YORK

DANIEL WELLINGTON

@zooyorkofﬁcial 2,235 posts 97.1k followers 81 following

@danielwellington 4,061 posts 2.8m followers 150 following

Find them at: THE COLLECTIVE

Find them at: PROJECT

UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

HUDSON JEANS

BIG BUD PRESS

@hudsonjeans 428 posts 78.1k followers 305 following

@bigbudpress 1,165 posts 97.7k followers 262 following

Find them at: PROJECT

Find them at: POOLTRADESHOW

LINDA FARROW

@lindafarrow 4,418 posts 109k followers 20 following Find them at: PROJECT

FRENCH CONNECTION

RING JACKET

EFM

@frenchconnection_us 1,340 posts 24.1k followers 725 following

@efmmenswear 530 posts 3,442 followers 1,391 following

Find them at: PROJECT

Find them at: THE TENTS

CAT FOOTWEAR

PRINCE AND BOND

@ringjacketusa 263 posts 5,188 followers 82 following

@catfootwear 1,404 posts 27.5k followers 252 following

@princeandbond 119 posts 2,908 followers 12 following

Find them at: THE TENTS

Find them at: FN Platform

Find them at: VANGUARDS GALLERY LAS VEGAS | FEBRUARY 21ï&#x161;º23, 2017 | UBMFASHION.COM

ARE YOU AN INSIDER?

Take the quiz below to see if YOU’RE a Las Vegas insider! Record your answers, add up your points and ﬁnd out if you’re a total newbie, if you’re doing ok or if you’re an absolute pro! Good luck!

3. YOUR BOSS TELLS YOU THAT YOU’RE WORKING THE SHOW ALONE THIS SEASON. WHAT DO YOU DO? 1. IF A CLIENT OFFERS TO TAKE

YOU TO THE “SPEARMINT RHINO,” YOU ARE GOING TO...

A. A strip club B. Siegreid & Roy’s Private Zoo C. An exotic game restaurant

A. Have a catheter put in before you ﬂy out. B. Make friends with the booths next to you for food and bathroom breaks. C. Leave a sign that says: “Be back in 5 Minutes! Just leave your order!”

8. THE “NEON GRAVEYARD” IS WHICH ONE OF THE FOLLOWING THINGS?

2. OOPS! YOU FORGOT TO PRINT

A. An outdoor museum where all the old Las Vegas signage lives B. The best after hours goth club in the city C. Nickname of the Las Vegas dump

ENOUGH LINE SHEETS. WHAT DO YOU DO?

A. Stop at FedEx before the show opens, how long can the line be? B. Go to the business center in the hotel next door, where there are no trade shows happening. C. Just tell people you’ll email it to them, no one needs a hard copy line sheet anymore.

4. THE “HIGH ROLLER LAS VEGAS” IS... A. A medical marijuana store B. The local women’s roller derby team C. The world’s tallest ferris wheel

5. YOUR FOOD PER DIEM IS ONLY $25.

WHAT’S YOUR PLAN? A. Eat every other day B. Go off the strip for dinner. C. Learn where the nearest Qdoba and Panda Express are.

6. YOUR POCKET CASH STRATEGY IS... A. “I’ll take it out in the casino.” B. Get on the plane with no less than $300 in hand. C. I’ll use my credit/debit card for everything, how much can the extra fees really be?

LET’S SEE HOW YA DID!

9. YOUR “HOLY GRAIL” RETAILER IS IN THE BOOTH ACROSS FROM YOU. QUICK! WHAT SHOULD YOU DO?

A. Use your mental powers to will them over to you. B. Run over and say “Sorry to interrupt, but come and look at some good product!” C. Stealthily stalk them and the second they leave the booth...pounce!

7. WHAT’S ON TOP OF THE

10. YOUR STRATEGY FOR GETTING

A. Bungee jump B. Glass bottom pool C. Roller coaster

A. Catch & Release: Stand outside your booth and drag them in as they walk by. B. Field of Dreams: If you show it, they will come. C. Gentle Persistence: Start emailing retailers as soon as you get your booth number.

STRATOSPHERE, THE TALLEST FREESTANDING OBSERVATION TOWER IN THE U.S.

RETAILERS INTO YOUR BOOTH IS...

0-3 CORRECT ANSWERS

4-7 CORRECT ANSWERS

8-10 CORRECT ANSWERS

TOTAL NEWBIE

YOU’RE DOING OK!

ABSOLUTE PRO

Welcome to Las Vegas! Don’t worry, you’ll get the hang of it after a few seasons under your belt.

Obviously you’ve done this a few times, but could still learn a few tricks to make the trip easier!

You’ve got this. Go get those orders!

ANSWER KEY: 1. A; 2. B; 3. B; 4. C; 5. B; 6. B; 7. C; 8. A; 9. C; 10. C UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 2123, 2017 | LAS VEGAS

SPRING 2017 VIEW THE ENTIRE STEVEN LAND COLLECTION AT T H E U P C O M M I N G M AG I C S H OW S H I R T S & T I E S : L N D N E C K W E A R • S U I T S : S T I T C H E D H O L D I N G S • S H O E S / B E LT S : G LO B E F O OT W E A R • S O C K S : GA R M E N T G R O U P • WAT C H E S : R K I C O R P • U N D E R W E A R : T E X T I S S • H AT S : B R U N O CA P E LO S T E V E N L A N D. C O M • 8 0 0 - 5 5 5 - 4 0 0 9

BY MICHAEL MACKO

HOW___________WORKS ARI HOFFMAN

Ari Hoffman has been the U.S. head of several international companies, including YSL and Gant. For the past two and a half years, he’s been the CEO of the United States at the Amsterdam-based sportswear brand Scotch & Soda, where he is currently growing the retail presence of the brand as well as expanding its wholesale distribution. I recently had lunch in the company’s new Flatiron offices to see how Ari Hoffman works.

THE NOTEPAD Like many of us, Hoffman straddles the line between using old-school tools and current technology. While all of his work is done on a laptop that he travels with, he's also a consummate note taker and list maker, which is all done by hand.

THE PAPERWEIGHT Hoffman was born in the Ukraine. A very close friend, who taught him English, presented him with this paperweight on the day he became a U.S. citizen in 1983. Besides the flag, it also has the Great Seal of the United States, the Constitution, “The Star Spangled Banner” and Emma Lazarus' famous poem "The New Colossus," which is inscribed on the base of the Statue of Liberty. THE BIBLE When Hoffman became the CEO of U.S. for Scotch & Soda, he had to sign for this book called "The Blueprint." On the outside, it says "To be Viewed by Scotch & Soda Employees Only,” which is why Hoffman was not able to show its contents to me. He did tell me that it contains the DNA of the brand and its history. If he were to leave the company, it would get passed on to his successor.

MR FEBRUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

SCOTCH & SODA AW/17 Hoffman is wearing a double-breasted blazer from the upcoming collection. Tailored clothing is becoming a stronger focus for the brand with jackets at $395, trousers at $175, and suits for under $600.

WALL OF CURIOSITIES This is a take on the 17th-century Dutch tradition of having a cabinet of curiosities, which showed treasures from trips abroad – which was sort of the Instagram of its day!

American Luxury. Recrafted.

The Finest Worsted and Woolen Fabrics. Made in Connecticut. Mill: 8 Furnace Avenue, Stafford Springs, CT - Tel. 860.684.2766 Showroom: Creare Group, 237 West 37th Street, Ste. 1200, New York - By appointment only: 212.575.1838

americanwoolen.com

MR FEBRUARY 2017

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MAGAZINE / LAS VEGAS PREVIEW

A UBM PUBLICATION

Vol. 28 No 2.