EM - Profumeria Selettiva 4-22 by mte edizioni

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THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

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N. 4/2022 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via R. Gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a. Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - € 7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi - Contiene Supplemento.

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OASI

RE-START FROM NATURE

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COMPANY 4/5 6 8 16/17 28/29 30/31 40 On the cover: Oasi, a ‘must’ signed Nouba

N. 4 ANNO XLII june - juy 2022 BIMONTHLY giugno - luglio 2022 CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO

Nouba Luciano Soprani Kocca Anothian Lumson Rudy Profumi Coverpla

EVENTS 14 24/26 34/35

TFWA Cannes Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna BeautyIstanbul

INTERVIEW

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena

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report

Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Correspondent for France: Catherine du Villard Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom - Francesca Bonelli Roberto Cimarosa - Valérie Kaminov Rebecca Lazzari - Joan Rundo Simona Verga - Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

12/13

20 32

Astra: S. Settimi

Lovely and Darling Groupe GM

36/39 Are influencers the new bricks and mortar? Valérie Kaminov 42/43 m1nd-set 46/47

m1nd-set

Advertisers’ list 15 10-11 33 22 45 44 II 27 41 9 18/23 7 1 3 III Cover IV

Anothian Astra BeautyIstanbul Beautyworld Middle East CosmeTokyo Cosmobeauté Cosmoprof North America Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Coverpla Kocca HSA Luciano Soprani Lumson Mane MakeUp in... New York Nouba Xerjoff

PASSION, CREATIVITY, INNOVATION AND SUSTAINABILITY: MANE SUCCESSES KEEP ON EMOTIONING The latest creations by MANE perfumers transport you to a world of technology and exclusive ingredients. Julie Massé and Violaine Collas sign a new chapter in the exciting series that Trussardi Parfums is dedicating to the values of contemporary femininity. PURE JASMINE is a perfume dedicated to all women for whom being a feminist today means adhering to the values of individuality, sustainability and inclusiveness. The top notes open on the bright vivaciousness of Bergamot Essential Oil that meets unexpected facets of fresh salty Pistachio and elegant Neroli Essential Oil. The daring and unpredictable character of this creation blooms into an engaging Floral heart of Champaca E-Pure Jungle Essence™, Jasmine Absolute and Mugane™. The drydown discloses the secret of an enveloping persistence of Patchouli Essential Oil, Sandalwood and Vanilla. SHINE LIKE A NIGHT is one of the new episodes of Blumarine’s Les Eaux Exuberantes collection. An olfactory score created by Alex Lee about the exciting moment when a girl slips into her shiny new evening dress and prepares for a night of partying, dancing and fun with her friends. In her Very Peri jus, the iconic color of 2022, Alex Lee mixed the glamour of a sequin dress with the exciting and slightly peppery flavour of a cocktail from an exclusive bar tender. The creation opens with the unmistakable notes of Pink Pepper Pure Jungle Essence™ on a vitaminic ensemble of Bergamot and Yellow Mandarin Essential Oils. In the heart, the opulent sweetness of Frangipani plunges into the luminous vibrancy of Mugane™ Floral facet with a sweetly Spicy burst of Ginger Essential Oil. The drydown discloses a distinct facet of Tonka Bean that embellishes a fascinating Woody blend of Orcanox™ and Lorenox™. Between tradition and contemporaneity, Italian roots and international vision, Furla Fragrance Collection is enriched with INCANTEVOLE, a new creation by Véronique Nyberg. A luminous fragrance that opens with exuberant Citrusy touches of Bergamot, intriguing Marine nuances and a juicy accord of Watery Fruits. The Flowery bouquet in the heart reveals a multifaceted femininity: the refined elegance of Iris Absolute, the audacious and sensual accents of Ylang-Ylang Essential Oil, the blooming liveness of Mugane™. In the drydown, a warm and enveloping embrace of Lorenox™, Driftwood and Tonka Bean Absolute seals this daring creation. A delicate yet sophisticated fragrance, as enchanting as the woman who wears it. Following its debut in the world of fragrances back in 2018, Blauer USA is now presenting BLAUER BOSTON 1936 THE JOURNEY for him, a completely sustainable perfume by Véronique Nyberg, dedicated to travelers, to those who feed on emotions and are hungry for discovery. A vibrant mix of Hesperidate and Spicy notes intertwines with masculine and velvety nuances of Geranium Bourbon, enriched by Aromatic touches of White Thyme and Cypress Essential Oils. The Woody drydown, with Essential Oils of Patchouli and Vetiver Bourbon, is mysterious and intense and enhances the verticality of the composition, a symbol of strength and elegance. With MAGENTA TANZANITE by Armani/Privé Haute Couture Fragrances, Violaine Collas reinterprets the tanzanite stone in a magenta hue, to capture this moment of serenity suspended in time, against the backdrop of a wild, natural environment. The creation opens with fresh and Spicy top notes of Cardamom, Ginger and Bergamot. Then, the Tobacco Absolute and the Vanilla extract Bourbon Premium, sustainably sourced from the mountainous Loky Manambato region of Madagascar, create a voluptuous, honeyed, and Woody trail.

COMPANY

OASI Re-start from nature

For over 40 years, Nouba has led processes of innovation in the beauty world, respecting the high Italian standards of quality and excellence. The brand has always aimed at reaching ambitious objectives, which are translated into extremely performing products and in concrete and efficient communication. The key topic of 2022 and of the years to come will be sustainability. For Nouba, reaching an eco-sustainable approach is a natural evolution of the process of product research and development. “LA TERRA” launched by the brand at the origins of its story, was the first loose bronzing powder to make its debut on the cosmetics market, as well as being the most highly appreciated bronzing powder of the 1980s.

Contained in a special terracotta pot, LA TERRA released a luminous veil on the face which naturally recalled a golden summer tan. Its “pearly sun effect” was the most popular cosmetic result of that period! Forty years later, Nouba starts again from its origins and that iconic product, bringing OASI to the world. The concept of materiality which already belonged to LA TERRA is reproposed again today with OASI in a more innovative and contemporary way.

COMPANY

The new bronzing powder from Nouba is a totally eco-sustainable and innovative product, inspired by the iconic ‘Terra’ which made the brand famous in the 1980s Oasi is the new bronzing powder by Nouba with a delicate and matte finish that gives the complexion a natural and radiant look, bringing out the natural beauty of each one of us. The vegan formula, with 98% of ingredients of natural origin, has been enriched with a Soft Focus complex that optically minimizes imperfections and with the active ingredient Plankton Glass Flower which protects the skin from urban and digital pollution. The ultra-fine and silky texture melts on the skin without leaving marks and offers a buildable cover. The product comes in an innovative packaging that is plastic-free and with no waste, made from only sustainable raw materials. Natural paper and a 100% recyclable and reusable terracotta tile.

Oasi is a concept of evolution, as well as an emblem of the need for the brand to speak more and more about sustainability, a value that is already coherent with the brand’s policy that for many years has offered a wide variety of vegan products. A product like OASI aims to conquer the cosmetics scene for the intensity of meaning that it brings with it. For this reason it can only be the start of a much more ambitious path towards which Nouba is getting ready for; the creation of a community which, through OASI, can give life to a dream-like imagery in which to meet, look after oneself and one’s natural beauty. Sustainability will thus continue to be one of the guidelines in the design and development of Nouba products and 2022 is the year in which all this takes shape! For this reason, we recommend you carefully follow the evolution of the brand to continue to be surprised and to follow the next launches! #restartfromnature will only be the beginning!

COMPANY

LUCIANO SOPRANI PRESENTS JOLIE PRINCESSE

The new Luciano Soprani fragrance, Jolie Princess, represents the contemporary woman dressed by Luciano Soprani. Both elusive and self-confident, romantic and daring, she lives each moment of her life. Jolie Princess is her signature of elegance and femininity to be worn all over the world. It shows a young but determined, feminine personality. The liveliness of bergamot blends with the freshness of clementine while flirting with pink pepper. The heart reveals its elegance and romanticism with a floral bouquet that discloses every nuance of rose and iris, ending with a sweet scent of plums. The base is a dreamy touch of warm powdery notes, structured by patchouli and vetiver, ending on a sensual hint of musk.

Luciano Soprani

A signature of elegance

Born in Reggiolo (Reggio Emilia) in 1946, he started working as a designer at Max Mara in 1967. Less than three years later he was responsible for almost all the collections In 1978 he moved to Milan. Soon his talent and originality were sought after by all the emerging brands: he designed collections for Basile, GFT, Nazareno Gabrielli, and Gucci. He presented his first LUCIANO SOPRANI collection in 1981. Over the following two decades his elegant and modern style established itself in Italy, the USA and Japan. He opened a flagship store in Milan, in Via della Spiga, one in Rodeo Drive, Los Angeles, and 30 more single brand stores in Japan, thanks to the joint venture with the Onward Kashiyama Group. LUCIANO SOPRANI dressed actors of international acclaim and had the most famous Top Models working for him. In 1999, he died prematurely at the age of 53. The LUCIANO SOPRANI company has continued developing the brand’s heritage, taking care in respecting its core values and endorsing its fame with great investments in communication.

j o plr iinec e s s E a u D e Pa r f u m

COMPANY

KOCCA

EUROCOSMESI ACQUIRES THE INTERNATIONAL FRAGRANCE LICENCE

Discover the different personalities of this brand Kocca, the new entry into the licences of the Eurocosmesi family, is ready today to present the first line of its fragrances to the great enthusiasm of the two companies: “With the two Kocca fragrances, we wanted to present the brand in a new dress, more casual but still of value, with the objective of reaching that part of the clientele that does not know the contemporary and dynamic character of the brand,” said the company’s spokesperson. “We are delighted to have undertaken this collaboration with the Kocca brand, a young and strongly expanding Italian label throughout the country. We are convinced that the launch of the two Kocca fragrances can fully join the international assortment of Eurocosmesi and embrace an increasingly younger, variegated and trendy target like Kocca’s,” added Andrea Gualandi, Managing Director of the Coswell group to which Eurocomesi belongs. Inspired by the bold and sparkling character of the Kocca fashion collections, the two fragrances are

tailored for two kinds of unique women: a strong woman who is not afraid to dare, and an elegant woman stands out with her flawless air. Pure Verve envelops its wearer with the sparkling citrus notes of orange and the piquancy of pink pepper, developing into the sweetness of lavender flowers and ylang ylang, before discovering the intense notes of cedar and ambergris. True Charme is a seductive fragrance which starts with sweet notes of pear and fresh bergamot, the juiciness of peach nectar and sambac jasmine, inebriated with the aromas of patchouli and mellow woods. The bottle is elegant yet unassuming, transparent glass in a sensuous rounded silhouette with a heavy glass base to give solidity. True Charme is a delicate pink in colour while Pure Verve is a cool light blue. Both have golden-coloured caps to seal these precious fragrances. The box for Pure Verve has a sinuous rainbow effect, while the True Charme box has a delicate pink marbled effect.

parfums

DRE S S Y OU R S OU L

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

ASTRA CREATES ITS FIRST LINE OF HEMA-FREE SEMI-PERMANENT NAIL POLISHES DESIGNED TO BRING A PERFECT PROFESSIONAL MANICURE INTO EVERYONE’S HOME: ASTRA PROFESSIONAL.

#BECURIOUS

AN EXTENSIVE RANGE OF NAIL GEL POLISHES IN 48 DIFFERENT SHADES AND A SPECIAL STARTER KIT, IDEAL FOR THOSE WHO ARE NEW TO THE WORLD OF SEMI-PERMANENT NAIL VARNISHES AND NEED ALL THE ESSENTIAL PRODUCTS FOR FULL APPLICATION. SHINY AND LONG-LASTING NAILS! THIS IS THE MISSION STATEMENT OF ASTRA PROFESSIONAL, THE NEW LINE OF HEMA-FREE SEMI-PERMANENT NAIL POLISHES OF THE FINEST QUALITY, WITH HIGHLY PROFESSIONAL RESULTS AND ACCESSIBLE TO EVERYONE.

INTERVIEW

ASTRA make-up PRESENTS THE NEW LINE: ASTRA PROFESSIONAL

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Astra has now created its first line of semi-permanent nail varnishes created to bring a perfect professional manicure to everyone’s homes: Astra Professional. What does this major new line include? SIMONE SETTIMI: On the strength of the experience of the brand in the world of make-up and skincare, Astra now also enters the world of semi-permanent nail lacquering for the first time with Astra Professional. It is a new line wholly dedicated to the world of semipermanent nail colour, complete with all the essential products for a do-it-yourself professional manicure. Astra Professional offers a wide range of Hema-Free nail varnishes in no fewer than 48 colours, a set of preparers and primers that are indispensable for correct application, the solvents and solutions necessary for removal of residue and the semi-permanent nail varnish and, lastly, all the accessories required to obtain a perfect professional result.

Interview with SIMONE SETTIMI, GENERAL MANAGER of astra make-up

INTERVIEW

EM: Astra Professional is a completely Hema-Free line of semi-permanent nail varnishes. How come you made this choice? SS: For some time now, Astra has embarked on a virtuous path on the topic of raw materials, represented in particular by two recent launches like the Pure Beauty collection formulated with more than 90% of ingredients of natural origin, and Astra Skin, the first skincare line by Astra. The brand could not stop here. With Astra Professional, we have in the first place wanted to focus on a high technology formula completely Hema Free. Not everyone knows that Hema is a film-forming agent that can produce a film on the nails which helps the adhesion of the semi-permanent nail varnish, damaging and weakening the nails. In Europe, the use of products with Hema is regulated and limited exclusively to trade professionals and it can cause allergic reactions. All the products in the Astra Professional line are made with a highly innovative and revolutionary formula

with 0% of Hema, a guarantee to reduce to a minimum the risk of allergic reactions and thus ensure everyone can safely enjoy the world of professional semi-permanent nail varnish. EM: Is it suitable for those who are approaching the world of semi-permanent nail varnish for the first time? SS: Astra Professional is also presenting a functional and elegant starter kit, ideal for anyone who decides to approach the world of semi-permanent lacquer for the first time, requiring all the indispensable products for complete application. In addition to all the products and accessories necessary to prepare the nails and for the final removal, the starter kit also includes 2 colours with universal appeal: number 07 Ballet, a pinkish nude with a neutral-cool undertone, and number 24 Chili Pepper, a flaming red with a cool undertone. Claudia Stagno

EVENTS

GREAT EXPECTATIONS FOR

TFWA CANNES A CAN’T MISS EVENT

One of the most prestigious events in the duty free and travel retail calendar, TFWA World Exhibition & Conference, will return to Cannes from 2nd to 6th October 2022, and a number of leading brands have already confirmed their intention to exhibit. The square-metres of floor space reserved by exhibitors for the 2022 TFWA World Exhibition & Conference is already well ahead of the amount that exhibited at last year’s event, and is approaching 80% of pre-Covid figures, giving much reason to be confident of a successful 2022 edition as plans continue to progress.

TFWA WILL RETURN TO CANNES FROM 2nd to 6th October 2022 To name just a few, the following major brands have confirmed their attendance at the Cannes event: beauty brands L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, Shiseido and Coty, fashion experts Zegna, Longchamp, Lacoste and Luxottica, confectionery businesses Nestlé, Lindt, Mondelez and Storck, major wine and spirits brands Pernod Ricard, Bacardi, and William Grant & Sons and tobacco companies Japan Tobacco International (JTI), Imperial Brands and Davidoff.

“It’s very pleasing to see both the commitment to attend of major business partners and the calibre of brands who have already committed to exhibiting in Cannes. TFWA World Exhibition & Conference continues to prove to be a can’t miss event for the industry and we are very much looking forward to welcoming delegates to Cannes once again. We will be sharing more details on a number of exciting new features in the weeks and months to come.” Erik Juul-Mortensen, TFWA President

ANOTHIAN

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COMPANY

ANOTHIAN born from ALPS USA’s medical expertise a “Private Label” skincare line Made in USA From research in the health sector to innovation in the beauty sector. Since 1989, ALPS has been a renowned US manufacturer of medical devices serving people with permanent limb injuries. Their constant research into the protection and care of those most sensitive areas of the skin, which come into contact with artificial limbs has led the company to become a market leader, thanks to its use of technology and its development of innovative formulations with proven effectiveness. The extraordinary benefits obtained from their gelbased medical devices were the starting point and the inspiration for the research and development of innovative products. ALPS decided to use its thirty years’ experience to develop an effective daily treatment for one of the most sensitive and delicate parts of our bodies: the face. Thus was born the ANOTHIAN skincare line, designed and produced by ALPS’ R&D laboratories in the USA, which offers cutting-edge formulations for companies looking for innovative and extraordinarily efficient products to add to their brand’s facial beauty lines.

Private Label customized full service

ALPS’s R&D center is available to individual customers to facilitate “tailor-made” changes to the formulations, making the treatment unique and even more exclusive. Using the “White Label” option, ALPS offers customers the opportunity to purchase existing ANOTHIAN formulations, customizing the packaging with their company’s own brand.

www.anothian.com

ANOTHIAN SKINCARE LINE Inspired by nature empowered by technology OCEAN BOOST - EYE PATCHES The latest product in the ANOTHIAN line is “OCEAN BOOST,” an advanced biomolecular gel. A 100% natural, transparent, and highly purified gel, with a formula based on oceanic algae and capable of delivering the active ingredients it contains more uniformly and to a greater depth. “OCEAN BOOST” is gelatin free, meaning it’s a vegan pioneering biocompatible release system that, thanks to its micropores, allows the ingredients to reach deeper layers of the skin faster and more efficiently and to provide more effective skin nutrition. Ocean Boost gel is easy to apply because it adheres with extreme precision to the face, is hypoallergenic, and is suitable for all skin types. The first product from ALPS laboratories made with Ocean Boost technology is a specific treatment for the eye area that helps prevent fine wrinkles and eliminate signs of fatigue. Two light “eye patches” use biomolecular gel technology to prevent aging wrinkles by counteracting the imperfections of dark circles and swelling around the eye. A highly moisturizing treatment based on hyaluronic acid and niacinamide that delivers its active ingredients deeply and uniformly, toning the areas around the eyes. The pleasant sensation of freshness it confers can be enhanced by placing the gel petals in the refrigerator for a few minutes before use.

ANTIOXIDANT CREAM ANOTHIAN’s antioxidant cream is extremely rich and full-bodied, and even from the first applications helps to renew the elasticity and radiance of the skin.

company

An example of a tailored formulation with “OCEAN BOOST” resulted from a collaboration with DSM Personal Care to include the QUALI®Triple-B Complex, which utilizes three types of premium grade Vitamins B. The QUALI®B-Vitamin B12 is a non-GMO biotech solution with a Natural origin index of 67,8% that provides a pleasant pink color to the formulation. It also calms irritated skin and helps maintain a healthy looking skin for a more vibrant appearance. The QUALI®B-D-Panthenol provides skin softness and elasticity. The QUALI®B-Vitamin B3 stimulates barrier function to reduce oxidative stress and blemishes; -Vitamin B3 helps brighten and balance uneven skin tone, improves elasticity, and decreases the appearance of fine wrinkles while it helps to protect from UV and Blue light damage. QUALI® Triple-B Complex is globally approved.

smooth texture, ensuring maximum skin hydration, while vitamin E oil reduces signs of stressed skin and neutralizing free radicals. The effect is immediate: it significantly reduces imperfections, improves elasticity, and stimulates skin regeneration.

REPAIR CREAM The repair cream has a full-bodied texture, and is rich in antioxidants and salicylic acid in its formulation. Thanks to its active ingredients, it helps repair cell damage and rehydrates the skin barrier, reducing the discoloration of scars and lesions caused by acne. It also reduces skin imperfections, making the face radiant again. The delicate composition of the cream has been specially designed to provide a calming treatment and stimulate skin regeneration after each use. It is an ideal cream for all skins, and its fragrance, light and neutral, evokes the ocean breeze.

REPAIR MASK

Its composition, with a high concentration of antioxidants and formulated to counteract the effects of free radicals, stimulates skin regeneration. It has a soothing effect on irritated skin and helps reduce imperfections. Applied daily, it gives the skin natural elasticity and hydration and helps prevent premature skin aging. Its composition is also ideal for more mature skin. The fragrance of the antioxidant cream is pleasantly fresh, with notes of cucumber and melon.

This targeted treatment to help fight skin imperfections is particularly effective when combined with ANOTHIAN’s Repair Cream. The mask is soft and comfortable thanks to the natural cotton and bamboo fabric, whose formulation, rich in effective active ingredients, gives the skin an immediate moisturizing and soothing effect. It contains a high concentration of salicylic acid and antioxidants which penetrate deep into the skin. The treatment fights free radicals to minimize imperfections, improves elasticity by stimulating skin regeneration, and visibly reduces different types of skin damage.

ANTIOXIDANT MASK The antioxidant mask offers a moment of relaxation, at the same time providing a deep treatment with an intense repairing effect. The ANOTHIAN mask in natural cotton and bamboo fabric is rich in active antioxidant ingredients: avocado butter offers a

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LAUNCH

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LOVELY DARLING best-selling celebrity scents by Sara Jessica Parker and Kylie Minogue on Rwandair Two fragrances distributed by the fast-expanding Lovely Distribution Company portfolio have been listed inflight by Rwandair for its Spring/Summer offer. The best-selling celebrity scents Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker and Darling by Kylie Minogue have joined the women’s fragrance line-up on board and online thanks to the new partnership between Lovely Distribution Company and leading inflight concessionaire 3Sixty Duty Free. The two fragrances are each offered in two sizes: Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker in 100 ml and 50 edp sizes and Kylie Minogue Darling in 75ml and 30ml edp sizes.

Darling was first launched with great success in 2006 and relaunched in October 2021 to selected retailers in the UK and Spain while the wider UK, European and travel retail launch kicked off in January 2022.

The new shimmery pink, sleek bottle with a lacetextured cap holds a floral fragrance with luscious top notes of passionfruit, freesia and lychee, a floral heart of lily and boronia flower and a warm lingering dry down on sandalwood, amber wood and vanilla. Created b perfumer Ilias Fremendis, Kylie Minogue Darling retains the original scent architecture but in a modern vegan formula.

Sex & The City star Sarah Jessica Parker released her first fragrance, Lovely, in 2005. It is still a top selling global brand with its fruity interpretation of modern glamour. Uplifting and feminine, Lovely is a silky white amber fragrance with top notes of mandarin that immediately awaken the senses. The simple yet bold design is adorned with SJ’s signature grosgrain ribbon.

Do you stand out?

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Book your space now! Join us for the region’s largest international trade fair for the beauty industry in the Middle East. Make the most of a unique opportunity to meet thousands of visitors from the industry on the show floor, and get genuine leads. Tel: +971 4 389 45 00 beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com www.beautyworldME.com

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EVENTS

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna

POSITIVE RESULTS

FOR THE 53RD EDITION The main area of origin was Europe, but attendance from Asia and the Americas went well beyond expectations. The African and Middle Eastern markets follow with very interesting percentages in view of future prospects. “It was very exciting to see the aisles of the fair come alive with operators from all over the world, concluding orders and discussing new projects,” said Giuseppe Calzolari, President of BolognaFiere. The Cosmotalks sessions, held from the Thursday to the Saturday, also proved to be particular popular, with visitors discussing the new trends that will revolutionize the industry. Professional operators appreciated presentations and live demonstrations on the Beauty & Spa sector, the World Massage Meeting and Masterclass. There was also great enthusiasm in Pavilion 37 with the On Hair shows that finally brought together hairstylists and their staff in the hair sector.

A truly international event Visitors came to Bologna from over 140 different countries to discover the new products and innovations of more than 2,700 exhibitors from 7 different countries, thanks to the investments of the Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs and International Cooperation and the ITA – Italian Trade Agency as part of projects for the promotion of the Italian beauty industry in the world’s main markets. Exhibitors expressed satisfaction at the impressive professional quality of the visitors and the high number of international operators.

Bologna was once again the capital of the world of beauty from 28 April to 2 May with the 53rd edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna

EVENTS

Enrico Zannini General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof, also expressed his satisfaction with the show: “This edition of Cosmoprof was extremely positive Our exhibitors have finally met buyers and distributors from all over the world in person. We are aware that many companies had to give up their presence due to the restrictions related to the pandemic and the war between Russia and Ukraine. For this reason, our match-making system, Cosmoprof My Match, will main available to our operators in the next few days as well. We want to guarantee the visibility and quality of Cosmoprof business opportunities even beyond the days fo the fair. Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna has strengthened its role as a business partner for professionals and our goal is to guarantee a continuous and performing networking platform.”

2023 DATES: COSMOPROF BOLOGNA WORLDWIDE WILL TAKE PLACE FROM 16 TO 20 MARCH Following the comments collected through a survey, the organizers took the decision to choose the date of March for next edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, considering it the most suitable period for launches on the main markets, with no overlapping with international holidays and celebrations. The areas dedicated to the supply chain and the retail channel of Cosmopack and Cosmo/Perfumery & Cosmetics will be active from Thursday 16 to Saturday 18 March 2023 to concentrate the attendance of operators from abroad on weekdays. The pavilions of Cosmo/Hair & Nail & Beauty Salon dedicated to the professional channel will open from Friday 17 to Monday 20 March, 2023, to welcome both international distributors and operators of hair salons and beauty centres on their days off. Specific initiatives will be organized by BolognaFiere Cosmoprof to approach the 54th edition, to keep a constant dialogue with operators.

EVENTS

The Cosmoprof and Cosmopack Awards, the project curated by the renowned international beauty agency BEAUTYSTREAMS are a highly prestigious recognition in the sector, as well as a fundamental element of the international events of the Cosmoprof network. Exhibitors at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2022 presented 602 products and services, and BEAUTYSTREAMS selected the most innovative ones as finalists. A jury with international experts and prestigious platers from all over the world decided the 2022 winners, inspired by their knowledge and experience of the latest trends and consumer habits. The categories were Hair Products, Skincare, Salon & Spa, Make Up & Nail, and Natural & Organic and the winners,

respectively were Gama Srl with iQ2; Réduit Boost by Wellfully SA; Lumisenses LED Eyelash Extension System by Glamlac LLC; Prinker M by Prinker Korea Inc, and Deodorizing Roll-on Coconut WoW Tablet by Beesline. Innovations in the supply chain are the protagonist of the Cosmopack Awards, in five categories: Skincare & Hair Formula, Make-Up & Nail Formula, Make-Up & Nail Packaging Technology, Skincare & Hair Packaging Technology and Packaging Design. The respective winners were: Smart Rolling Sun Oil by Pink Frogs Srl; Refill me! Mascara by MYC Packaging Innovation; Delicate Leaf by Ancorotti Cosmetics SpA; Essential Push Button Tottle by Asquan Group, and XPaper – airless paper packaging by Lumson.

THE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD TO DARIO FERRARI, PRESIDENT OF INTERCOS GROUP The Lifetime Achievement Award, dedicated to enlightened professionals and entrepreneurs who have distinguished themselves for talent and tenacity, providing an essential contribution to the evolution of the cosmetics industry, went to Dario Gianandrea Ferrari, Founder and President of Intercos Group: a gesture of gratitude for what Ferrari has done for the growth of the sector in the world. Left, Enrico Zannini, General Manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof, Renato Ancorotti, Cosmetica Italia President, congratulate with Dario Ferrari, Intercos Group President

THE MOST IMPORTANT BEAUTY TRADE SHOW IN THE WORLD, DEDICATED TO ALL SECTORS OF THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY COSMOPROF.COM BOLOGNA, ITALY FAIR DISTRICT 16 – 18 MARCH 2023

17 – 20 MARCH 2023

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COMPANY

LUMSON presents the last frontier of airless system in a jar

After the success obtained with Envers, which gave a new twist to the “classic” concept of a jar, Lumson introduces a new chapter in the Touchless® (airless with pouch) story launching Envers Glas, the new 50ml glass jar airless system.

THE AIRLESS MARKET Over the last few years, the market has seen immense growth in requests for airless systems, a technological and highquality packaging that offers various advantages: it helps prevent oxidation, increases product shelf life, protects against contamination from external agents, and guarantees precise dosing. Driving the demand is the cosmetic sector which encompasses almost 90& of the market, followed by the pharmaceutical and food industries. There are multiple reasons behind the boom of this type of packaging. On one end are skincare brands wanting to offer consumers maximum safety and to protect formulas from contamination risk and on the other, new indie brands with a ‘green’ approach looking for packaging made with sustainable and/or separable materials. Research&Markets has estimated that the airless market, today worth around 3.2 billion euros, will exceed 7 by 2027 with an average annual growth of +5,7%. Requesting airless systems above all is the skincare world, due to the need to protect formulations but also as a result of cosmetic legislation which is increasingly more restrictive in terms of preservatives. How is it possible to guarantee the same product duration or even increase it without adding more preservatives and, at the same time, ensure maximum formula integrity? By choosing an airless!

ENVERS GLAS: THE SAFETY OF AIRLESS, THE EXQUISITE QUALITY OF GLASS In 2022, a new chapter unfolds in the story of Lumson’s airless with pouch systems with the launch of ENVERS GLAS, which combines all the characteristics of the ‘classic’ Envers with the exquisite quality of glass. The sophisticated and contemporary design is enhanced by the use of glass, a prestigious and noble material. The minimalistic, clean silhouette of Envers Glas is a declaration of intent: the result of a precise approach to cosmetic packaging which is luxurious and aesthetically-pleasing. Thanks to the perfect fusion of technology, elegance, functionality, and safety, Envers Glas represents packaging that is one-of-a-kind with unmistakable style. Catering perfectly to the consumer needs of women who prefer products in jars for their beauty routines, Envers Glas is practical to use, guarantees formula integrity and high product restitution, can be customized with an ample variety of effects and decorations (screen printing, hot stamping, metallization, internal coating…), but most importantly, it’s the first airless with pouch in a jar that unites plastic and glass. An emblem of positive luxury, Envers Glas, like all Lumson’s airless systems, was designed with an ecoconscious approach: once the product is finished, the glass and plastic components can be separated and disposed of using the appropriate recycling method. A choice that is the perfect answer to the market trends. In the face skincare segment, the most used format is in fact, 50ml, and glass jars represent around 50% of the jar market. In 2019, the number of units manufactured exceeded 226 million. A business destined to grow in the coming years with an expected trend of +13%.

FROM THE FIRST ENVERS TO THE NEW ENVERS GLAS Lumson is one of the key players in the airless market on an international level. Thanks to its ability to combine technology, design, and innovation, the company has been able to establish itself on the market and win over brands worldwide. The first Envers, launched in 2018, is the perfect example of its philosophy. Elegant and functional, it gave the ‘classic’ concept of a jar a new meaning. The “on-off” system opened the doors to a new cosmetic application technique while the exclusive aesthetic, 28 provided by the pairing of the jar to the dispensing system, melded perfectly with the airless system technology (Touchless) and with the pouch enclosed within the jar ensuring product purity. This explains why Envers has become an iconic packaging.

LUMSON’s XPAPER WINS AT COSMOPACK AWARDS 2022 The Cosmoprof & Cosmopack Awards are a highly coveted recognition in the sector and are also a fundamental element of Cosmoprof network’s international events. Today, they are the only competition that involves all areas of the cosmetics industry and that acknowledges the power of packaging, technology, and formulation in the world of beauty. The exhibitors in the 2022 edition at Cosmoprof Worldwide submitted 602 products and services, and from among these, BEAUTYSTREAMS selected the proposals that were most in line with the evolution of the market. An international jury made up of industry experts, trend agencies, opinion leaders, journalists and international influencers were called upon to choose the packaging that best satisfied the criteria of innovation, sustainability, functionality, and creativity. Lumson’s paper airless option wasn’t only judged to be one of the most innovative packaging solutions but also emerged as “the perfect combination of smart design, safety, and advanced functionality with a sustainable touch”. The possibility of separating the plastic components from the paper ones once the product inside is used up makes the packaging easily recyclable and consistent with circular economy principles: reduction, reuse, and recovery. XPaper’s innovativeness is found, first off, in the material that the bottle is made of: paper, the most sustainable material conceptually and intuitively. With an additional bonus: thanks to new printing technologies, paper is transformed from a “poor” material into a premium one, capable of elevating the content and the container all while fully respecting the environment. XPaper, currently patent pending, combines sustainability with safety, another key issue for cosmetic packaging. In fact, the new paper airless dispenser is part of the large Touchless family, airless packaging with pouches equipped with a hermetic sealing system patented by Lumson.

company

Another important accolade for XPaper, Lumson’s paper airless dispenser, arrived at Cosmopack 2022. Already a winner of the 2021 ADI Design Index Award for Innovation and in the running for the Compasso d’Oro 2022, Lumson’s innovative airless packaging won in the Skincare & Haircare Packaging Technology category at Cosmopack Awards 2022.

LUMSON ’ S XPAPER : ORIGINAL, SUSTAINABLE, FUNCTIONAL Within the competition every year since 2008, three awards are handed out to projects, products, and services that stand out for their innovation in processes, materials, technology, changes of individual and social behaviors, criticism and applied research. This year, Lumson’s XPaper won one of the three awards. Onstage to accept the award was Matteo Moretti, President of Lumson and the creator of XPaper. “I’m very proud of this award. Not only because airless packaging represents the flagship product of cosmetic packaging developed and produced by Lumson but also because XPaper’s recognition at Cosmopack Awards is a testament to the importance of sustainable innovation in the cosmetics industry – declared Matteo Moretti after the awards ceremony-. The innovation that XPaper brings is even more significant, because it places environmental awareness and eco-design in the spotlight, combining them with safety and functionality – key elements in today and tomorrow’s beauty sector. Once the product has run out, you can separate the dispenser from the bottle in paper and send it down the right recycling chain. And then there’s its safety and creativity. Like all of our airless dispensers with pouch, it protects the product from the risk of contamination with air or other outside agents and can be customized with various printing technologies, becoming a unique product that reflects a brand’s aesthetic and philosophy”.

COMPANY

RUDY PROFUMI A CENTURY OF EXCELLENCE WHERE TRADITION AND INNOVATION MEET

The story of Rudy Profumi began in 1920 in Milan with Spiridione Calabrese, a far-sighted perfumer whose adventure started in his small barber’s shop with the creation of hair dyes and then inventing the first formula in Italy to melt and solidify pressed powder to colour lips, creating the lipstick as we know it today. Today it is the fourth generation that continues this heritage with the same passion and professionalism, innovating with great respect for tradition and showing the constant evolution aimed at presenting products with an original formula, attentive to research and respectful of the environment.

New markets Rudy Profumi is conquering new markets and closed 2021 with an increase in turnover of +30%. With a stable presence in over 30 counties with more than 300 points of sale and extensive distribution not only in perfumeries but with 4,000 new doors in pharmacies, health and beauty stress and herbalists, Rudy Profumi has been able to establish its presence abroad but above all in Italy.

Thanks to the new pharmacy channel, the company which in the past ten years achieved 80% of its turnover abroad, has today reversed the division on the Italian market of its turnover, thanks to the greater distribution visibility and the wde range of products available. In recent years the company has made its debut in markets such as northern Europe and Russia and consolidated its presence by an increase of 20% in Japan, Taiwan, Spain and the United Kingdom. This strategy of territorial expansion reflects the whole evolution of the brand which closed 2021 with a growth in turnover of 30% compared to the previous year.

company

The new collection of fragrances for laundry Delicate and elegant olfactory notes are the main characteristics of the new “1.6” line by Rudy Profumi, developed for those who love their home and want to personalize their washing with unique and elegant fragrances. They are drops of liquid perfume to be added directly in the washing machine for the final rinse or diluted in water for washing by hand. Thanks to the special formula, the perfume lasts in tine and remains in drawers and wardrobes, completely eliminating any odour of humidity or stuffiness, giving sheets, towels and clothes e a sensation of freshness and lightness and the scent of freshly washed laundry.

The range consists of five fragrances to evoke positive sensations with floral, fruity and aromatic tones. Named after precious stones, they have different olfactory pyramids. Giada (Jade) has all the freshness of spring thanks to the notes of Lemon and Peach; Quarzo (Quartz) is characterized by a seductive floral bouquet; Zaffiro (Sapphire) has green and floral notes of Neroli and White Flowers; Ametista (Amethyst) is a floral and sparkling fragrance and Turchese (Turquoise) is a floral and delicate composition.

Now in the hands of the fourth generation, the company is expanding without sacrificing its attention to design and delicate formulas The delicate and performing formulas characterize pleasant and evocative fragrances which range from the floral to the exotic and the sweetness of fruity notes. Sophisticated scents and design packaging are the peculiarity of the masstige products by Rudy Profumi, which like real objects for the décor of the home, ft perfectly into everyday lifestyles. This combination is particularly true in the Majolica collection; a line created thinking of the appeal of Italy characterized by fragrances inspired by typical Italian perfumes and dedicated to the cities that represent its history. The citrus fruit of Sicily, the Mediterranean

aromatic herbs, the roses of Positano and of Amalfi are only some of the perfumes contained in and exalted by the elegant and unique packaging, The name fo the collection derives from the famous Italian ceramics, an inspiration which is repeated in the exclusive designs made by hand and reproduced on the packaging, which give elegance and refinement to the product, transforming it into design for the home. The Rudy Profumi range of products comprises bath foams, body creams and liquid soaps, as well as the iconic eau de colognes and a line for home fragrances and the new launch of fragrances for laundry.

LAUNCH

“Mémoires d’Eté” is a specially tailored amenity range by Ane Sémonin

Groupe GM presents a new amenity line

Groupe GM, a leading international amenity provider, is presenting a new hotel line with the renowned Anne Sémonin brand. Celebrating their active collaboration since 2010, this specially tailored amenity range will be made available worldwide thanks to Groupe GM’s extensive distribution network. Called “Mémoires d’été”, the new hotel line is eco-designed to be fully in line with Groupe GM’s Care About Earth programme, thus helping to reduce its environmental footprint. The vegan cosmetic products are made in France from ingredients of natural origin. Inspired by the fresh, salty sea air and the aromatic, sun-drenched scents of citrus groves along the coast, the “Mémoires d’Été” amenity line evokes memories of summers past. Designed

to be sophisticated and timeless, it is the result of a precious combination of essential oils, trace elements, natural ingredients and innovative biotechnical active ingredients selected for their effectiveness.The new collection features a wide range of amenities with new cosmetic products and accessories, including shower gel, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion available in 40ml and 80 ml bottles made of recycled plastic. The line is rounded off with 30g and 50g soaps made with certified sustainable palm oil, and bath salts. The range also offers the 300ml Ecopump dispenser made from recycled plastic, for hand wash, shower gel and hair & body wash. The shampoos and conditioners are also available in the 300ml Ecopump dispenser. These dispensers minimise

wastage of the range’s exceptional formulas. The entire range is packed in eco-friendly materials. The cardboard packaging (for the shower cap, shoe cleaning mitt, sewing kit, cotton buds, cotton pads, comb, dental kit, shaving kit, bath sponge and manicure set) is FSC certified, ensuring that it is sourced from responsibly managed forests. The shower cap is made of corn starch, and the comb, razor and toothbrush are made of bamboo. The line also includes a sewing kit. Laurent Marchand, CEO of Groupe GM commented: “We are delighted to continue our collaboration with Anne Sémonin. This new line is in keeping with our Care About Earth programme and is a further demonstration of how Groupe GM and the cosmetics industry are tackling environmental challenges.”

3rd International Exhibition for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients

October 13 - 14 - 15, 2022

ICC - Istanbul Congress Center & ICEC - Istanbul Lutfi Kirdar / Taksim, Istanbul

Now in Tel: +90 212 2229060

2 Venues

+90 533 4843030

info@beauty-istanbul.com

International

3rd International Exhibition For Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair Home Care, Private Label, Packaging and Ingredients

October 13 - 14 - 15, 2022 ICEC - Istanbul Lutfi Kirdar & ICC - Istanbul Congress Center Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey

www.beauty-istanbul.com

New BEAUTYISTANBUL Online Platform and Mobile App are Live!

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Check out the New Online Platform! BEAUTYISTANBUL Online Platform is renewed with state-of-the-art software and presents lucrative business opportunities! Being active since 01.01.2019, it enables exhibitors to access 15,000 buyers from 187 countries with a click. Showcase your products, access the full list of buyers and contact directly 24/7 with messaging and live video meetings or set up meetings for the exhibition.

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New Mobile App for BEAUTYISTANBUL Online Platform enhances the exhibition experience! The app enables visitors and exhibitors to connect and interact through messaging and online meetings starting from now! Badge scanning feature allows participants to capture leads at the exhibition and follow-up through their profile on the Online Platform. Available on

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3rd edition is expanding by 2 NEW HALLS reaching 500 exhibitors from 50 countries Confirmed Country Pavilions and National Participations: Italy (110 Exhibitors with ITA and Italian Pavilion), Brazil (20 Exhibitors), South Africa (20 Exhibitors with CECOSA), Morocco (20 Exhibitors with AMDIE), Israel, Poland, Indonesia, South Korea, Algeria, Pakistan and more. 2022 edition features 10.000+ international trade visitors from 160+ countries including buyers, importers, distributors, wholesalers, cosmetics chain stores, retailers, pharmacy chains, supermarkets, online stores, brands and manufacturers interested in personal care, make-up, hair care, perfumery, skin care, dermocosmetics, home care, OTC products, natural & organic products, baby care, beauty accessories, professional beauty, private label, ingredients, raw materials, packaging and machinery categories, making BEAUTYISTANBUL the most international event in the Cosmetics industry.

www.beauty-istanbul.com Tel: +90 212 2229060

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+90 533 4843030

info@beauty-istanbul.com

ARE INFLUENCERS THE NEW BRICKS AND MORTAR? VALÉRIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Valérie Kaminov is Founder and Managing Director of the highly successful International Luxury Brand Consultancy. For over 25 years Valérie has been at the forefront of the global cosmetics industry and has worked with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances. With her extensive expertise, commercial acumen and practical experience IL Brand Consultancy has become one of the most sought after management and distribution agencies specialising in global beauty. Recognised for the breadth of business sectors and extensive distribution channels it works with, ILBC’s international client portfolio spans both well-established names and newly-emerging brands in hair care, make-up, skincare, fragrance, devices and top-to-toe brands. Valérie’s wealth of knowledge in international growth strategies and business development is combined with an inspirational and forward-thinking approach. Through her exceptional insight and understanding of the industry Valérie has helped brands amplify their market reach, elevate their brand presence, improve their business performance and achieve commercial success globally. A further aspect of her business is her skill in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth which has led Valérie to regularly advise Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors. This capability in combination with her advanced qualifications and proficiency in corporate governance have made her a much-desired Board Advisor and Non-Executive Director. From her CEW mentoring, organisation of the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) and guest lecture programmes, Valérie is a passionate and dynamic advocate of the global beauty industry. Valérie splits her time between her London HQ and36 her central Paris office as well as managing a satellite network in Russia & China.

Social shopping is the fastest growing retailer. With more than 400 million monthly active users, Instagram has allowed for a highly-engaged sense of community. Consider 80 million pieces of content are posted on average every day, resulting in 3.5 billion likes daily. And within this community, influencer partnerships are emerging as a best-in-class strategy for many beauty brands. A recent survey (by Celebrity Intelligence) reported that 80 percent of survey respondents stated that influencers play a significant factor in their consumer habits. Influencers shape perceptions and lead consumers to their final purchasing decision. The report also touched on the ROI influencer marketing campaigns can have. The average return for every $1.30 brands spent on beauty influencers was claimed at $11.80. Given the number of followers and the engagement levels (across countries and across beauty industry segments) per social media platform, it is no surprise that the influencer economy is booming.

The influencer marketing industry is set to grow to approximately $16.4 Billion in 2022. Influencer marketing focused platforms raised more than $800M in funding in 2021 alone. The global number of influencer marketing related service offerings grew by 26% in 2021, to reach a staggering 18,900 firms. More than 75% of brand marketers intend to dedicate a budget to influencer marketing in 2022. 54% of the firms working with influencers operate eCommerce stores. And Instagram was used by nearly 80% of the brands that engage in influencer marketing. The value of social commerce sales in 2022 is estimated to be $958 billion. Creator economy market size is estimated to reach $104 billion in 2022.

Furthermore, over 50 million people globally consider themselves content creators.

GLOBAL TOP TREND: MICROINFLUENCERS Here’s a top-trend, all brands need to be aware of: micro -inf luencers. Traackr’s report, 2022 Engagement Rate Benchmark for Branded Influencer Content, analyzes data from over 1000 beauty brands in the US, UK and France across for major categories: (cosmetics, skincare, fragrance, and hair care). On Instagram, nano-influencers had the highest average engagement rate of all categories (US, UK, FR). On TIKTOK, micro influencers had the highest average engagement rate in France, while nano influencers had the

highest average engagement rate in the US and UK. The report makes clear that brand partnerships (brand case studies include: Morphe, Milani, Framar, e.l.f., Makeup Revolution, Olaplex, Beauty Bay, Tarte Cosmetics, and Garnier) with micro or nano influencers, whether paid or organic, reap results. Today, 80% of influencers

in Asia are also micro-influencers. And 82% of social media users say they are ‘highly likely’ to follow a recommendation made by a micro-influencer. But how did this come about? The impact of the last two years has taken an emotional and physical toll on consumers; what they value, and don’t, has shifted, supply chains have been interrupted and there’s been unprecedented inflation, as a result shopping habits have changed enormously.

A study by Blackhawk Engagement Solutions reveals that the smartphone is the primary way millennials connect to the internet, and that fifty-five percent of them rely on social media as their primary source for shopping news and information. While Google and Amazon are the preferred method of comparison while shopping on a smartphone, Sixtynine percent of millennials belong to a retail loyalty program and 76 percent prefer to receive program information via e-mail. Today’s consumer expects more from their retailer, and indeed the very essence of what a retailer looks like has changed. Consumers no longer just shop at physical or online stores, they can buy directly from a brand’s Instagram page or indeed from the modern retailer, the influencer. Brands are leveraging individuals’ followings and turning them into shoppers, evolving the co-creation narrative that’s sprung up over recent years. The rise of social

commerce began with tele-shopping and is now being led by Tik Tok and Instagram where consumers are increasingly moving to shop from individuals that they value and trust. “Less than two years ago, very few consumers could have envisioned themselves shopping online or on their smartphones,” says Natalia Ferrara, a presenter on TJC The Beauty Channel, “mobile commerce sales have grown phenomenally over the past ten years, from less than $25 billion in 2012 to an estimated $208 billion in 2018,” she adds. This has led to m-commerce, or mobile shopping doubling its share of retail sales by 2025, according to eMarketer.

TIKTOK In 2021, TIKTOK overtook Google as the world’s most popular site with one billion monthly users. As well as being the most downloaded app, changing the way people make content and consume entertainment, TIKTOK has also changed the way we shop. 74% of TIKTOK users say that the app helps them with buying decisions while 67% say that is helps them discover more about a brand or a product. 83% of Tik Tok users say they use the platform for product reviews.

Natalia Ferrara – Teleshopping Presenter

TIKTOK is becoming a shopping destination. A new generation of virtual shoppers turn to the app before traditional shopping methods as a way of discovering and purchasing products. The #TIKTOK MadeMeBuyIt phenomenon has over 8 billion views and can help turn a brand or a product into a viral sensation overnight. “Brands and companies are realising that these content creators and influencers are actually valuable marketing assets, as they’re able to offer something that traditional ads can’t—the trust that they’ve built with their network of followers,” says Rachel Khoo, a Malaysian content creator who has worked with global brands including MakeUp Forever, Beauty Blender and Naming Cosmetics.

Retailers must have a mobile-first strategy in order to be relevant. Companies must integrate digital media with a traditional advertising strategy, or consider replacing it. Brand loyalty programs should foster community around that brand carried through via all channels, especially social media.

However, for brands looking to sell products via TIKTOK they need to be savvy about how they get them in front of users’ eyes. Social shoppers want honesty and integrity not pushy product placement, they “look to micro-influencers and creators for inspiration,” notes WGSN. Millennials and Gen Z are changing the face of shopping for beauty. Ferrara says, “They are not focusing on the latest trend but more on individuality

Rachel Khoo – TikTok & Social Media Content Creator – 2.7 million Views

and diversity. Gone are the days when they would look to a magazine to see who’s trendy, beautiful and cool, they look to real people, real bloggers and influencers and form their own opinion of beauty. Mental health and self-care known as “holistic beauty” is taking precedence over physical beauty and the quest for perfection.” This means that brands need to be smart when choosing who to partner with on digital content. Khoo warns that millions of followers don’t necessarily translate into sales; “[the] number of followers isn’t the most important thing when choosing a content creator or influencers to work with. It’s about finding the ones that have created a reliable community based on being their genuine selves and being truthful when promoting a product. It’s also important for brands to be clear about what they want and provide creators with clear and reasonable guidelines, as well as giving content creators enough time and budget to create the best possible content.”

price and ensure your brand story and passion as well as the ‘wow’ factor features, and benefits are communicated naturally and demoed effortlessly,” advises Ferrara.

INFLUENCER MARKETING IN ASIA’S BEAUTY INDUSTRY According to Affable, East and Southeast Asia regions have over 1.5 billion active social media users. Southeast Asians primarily use mobile devices to access information. This can be seen from statistics which state that smartphone penetration in Asia surpasses 90% and Hootsuite’s We are Social report. The report shows that 55% of the population in Southeast Asia are social media users. Furthermore, research from PayPal which states that 80% of Asian merchants use social media to sell online. Thailand recorded the highest percentage of merchants using social commerce (commerce using social media) at 95%, followed by 87% of Philippines merchants, and 80% of Indonesian merchants.

MOVE OVER TV SHOPPING, LIVE-STREAM SHOPPING IS THE NEXT BIG BANG

Natalia Ferrara and Ukrainian Model Diana Ony

It’s not just about partnering with the right creators though, playing the TIKTOK game right is a careful balancing act of strategy and creativity. Think about the story before the sales. Fenty Beauty has created a playful online persona, replying to comments with video and joining in community conservations. While Nike used the viral #MagicBoots challenge as a way of promoting its trainers. Smart. Natalia Ferrara has helped Revitalash Cosmetics sell over £4million a year of product on QVC. Whilst selling beauty products via teleshopping channels may seem a different ball game to creating content on TIKTOK, there are actually some selling strategies which can be applied to both channels. “Research your competition, understand your USP’s, product bundle

It started in China and was accelerated by the pandemic, livestream shopping is one of the fastest growing segments of ecommerce. Livestream shopping is the uncontested and natural result of the marriage of HSN/QVC, Amazon and social media. Livestream shopping offers the perfect stage for influencers to deliver a fun, interactive and entertaining shopping experience online. During a livestream shopping event, customers watch a live testimonial or product demonstration, can ask questions and make purchases during the livestream. Conversion rates are needless to say higher than static social media posts. China has excelled at leveraging the power of influencers; their most successful livestream shopping events often feature celebrities, In 2019, livestream shopping accounted for nearly $70 billion of China’s retail sales, and it is expected to account for close to a half a trillion dollars by 2023!

BOTTOM LINE Social media is a channel for which brands need to be devising selling strategies. According to WGSN, there are currently 4.62 billion global social media users, that’s means 60% of the population is on social platforms. Brands need to leverage the fact that there are one million new social media users joining platforms daily, that’s one million potential new customers every single day.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you expand your brand, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

COMPANY

Coverpl a

the wizard of a personalized standard offer Nice-based Coverpla designs, manufactures and develops customized cosmetics and fragrance packaging solutions. Its full-service offer is based on a collection of bottles, caps and pumps, all available in stock, driven by an uncompromising focus on quality coupled with cost-effectiveness and short lead times. For short production runs or major launches, Coverpla offers standard solutions that make personalization simple, offering its customers a service that goes much further than just the product.

The magic of personalization Starting with its range of bottles, caps and spray pumps, all of which are available from stock, the client brand builds its pack from scratch by mixing and matching standard components, to which it gives an initial visual identity simply through the combination of the various elements. Then comes the decoration stage (with lacquering, metallization, screen-printing, pad printing or hot stamping, for example) and potentially the choice of an accessory. The Coverpla team accompanies brands in their creative choices, turning a standard bottle into a fully branded concept, a tool for differentiation, communicating a brand’s universe and its codes.

Coverpla’s green attitude As part of its CSR strategy, Coverpla is working in a range of different areas including energy, waste, transport and sourcing. When it comes to products, in line with demand from both brands and consumers, the company is studying an array of potential solutions in line with the 3R principle: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. Several years ago, Coverpla designed the Verdi bottle, part of the ecoLine collection in lightweight glass made by its partner Bormioli Luigi. With screw necks, the bottles are now available as refillable versions. Specific fittings make them compatible with all the caps in the Coverpla catalog. Then came the Tess design, a 15ml travel-size bottle, and Vertigo, both refillable solutions. The pace of development for eco-designed solutions is accelerating. Caps, for example, are now available as injected versions made from recycled surlyn without inserts (Saxon, Gator), in wood with cork inserts (Toodoo, Torrid), or crafted with 100% biodegradable, biosourced PHA (Lord). With its partners, Coverpla is anticipating growing demand for new-generation materials (whether recycled, biosourced or biodegradable). The green train is in motion.

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REPORT

Travel Retail shopping behavioural analysis m1nd-set has revealed a series of upgrades and refinements to the agency’s bespoke travel retail datamining tool: Business 1ntelligence Service, widely known as “B1S” The leading industry research agency, based in Vevey Switzerland, said that the B1S datamining tool, which was launched in 2016, has collated a sample of more than 150,000 face-to-face interviews over the past 5+ years, making it the industry’s largest and most comprehensive database. According to m1nd-set the B1S datamining tool has undergone a series of recent developments enabling companies across the global travel retail sector to understand even more precise shopper segment behaviour. In addition to airport shopping behaviour, m1nd-set expanded the sample recruitment locations to include cruise and ferry travellers, domestic air travellers, as well as downtown shoppers. B1S now enables subscribers to access research across all sectors, including inflight as well as downtown shopping in Hainan, one of the world’s most sought-after shopping destinations in terms of shopper data.

Several other recent enhancements to the tool’s datamining capacity include more detailed information on the duty free shopping behaviour on the last trip, namely the time spent inside the shops and the satisfaction with the in-store experience. Drivers to purchase in the duty free shops compared to other channels such as domestic or online is another new feature of the last-trip data as is the initial purpose of purchase among shop visitors who do not make any purchases. A focus on online pre-ordering services in duty free shops is also now categorized in B1S, showing details of awareness, usage, categories purchased and drivers for using these services. Detailed information about the actual purchase can also be sought via a broader sub-category range. The reasons among shoppers for changing their mind instore among those who purchase something different than planned and information about first-time purchases of brands in duty free shops are further enhancements. More specific category-level data has also been included in the B1S tool specific to all the core categories. In the Wines and Spirits category for example, sub-categories now covered include type of spirits – Gin, Vodka, Tequila, Rum, etc. and even by type of whiskey. The Tobacco category analysis includes behaviour when purchasing heated tobacco products and the Confectionery category now shows specific data for biscuits. Other categories also now have specific sub-categories. Fine Foods is a completely new category included in B1S, as is Travel accessories.

REPORT

According to m1nd-set, there is also more detailed data on the impact of touch points by category, behavioural information on Daigou shopping missions among Chinese travellers, preferred shopping destinations and sustainability as a consideration when shopping in duty free. In addition to its travel retail shopping behavioural analysis capabilities, thanks to m1nd-set’s unique partnership with IATA, B1S also provides the industry’s most accurate traffic and traffic forecasting data, making it a source of unique and highly specific behavioural and location specific data. Anna Marchesini, Head of Business Development at m1nd-set commented: “The unique nature of B1S and our partnership with IATA means B1S combines the industry’s most comprehensive air traffic data and forecasts with the industry’s most complete shopper behavioural analysis. This enables marketers not only to view current shopper trends, but also map potential growth curves in specific regions, markets, even down to airport level. This has proved to be vital to decision makers across GTR who have been able to make informed decisions based on the powerful combined data sets of actual shopper behaviour across detailed segments and locations with the current and highly accurate traffic forecast data.” Peter Mohn, m1ndset CEO and Owner, added: “Recency of the data is paramount to relevance, particularly in the current fast-changing environment where shopper mindsets and behaviour have been so clearly impacted by external events, such as the global pandemic, and will continue to be, as war ranges in Ukraine. The data is uploaded on a monthly basis following monthly fieldwork across the airport network and traffic

data and forecasts are refreshed every month.” “However, just as recency is important for relevance in the current environment, so too is historical context” Mohn continued. “Tracking shopper behaviour and the evolution of certain trends over the past five years has proved incredibly pertinent to all B1S subscribers. The spikes and troughs recorded in recent months and years are not only informative for understanding the historical trends; they are also vital for understanding how behaviour may evolve in months and years to come.”

43 More information on the research can be obtained from m1nd-set by writing to info@m1nd-set.com.

REPORT

Travel Retail

High potential for the wellness sector The latest shopper insights research from m1nd-set, published in May, has put the spotlight on the growth of the wellness sector, revealing significant opportunities for the global travel retail sector The research by the leading industry insights agency, based in Vevey Switzerland, tracks the growth of the wellness sector across key markets over the past 2 years and underlines the context for the travel retail industry with insights on the global consumer mindset on both physical and mental health while travelling internationally. The global wellness sector, valued at more than US$4 billion, is set to grow by circa 10% of the next two to three years. Some subcategories are set to see even stronger growth. The wellness APP sector is reported to see 13% growth between 2022 and 2026, while the wellness tourism sector will see 20% year on year growth over the next two to three years.

m1nd-set reports that personal health products and services is the leading sub-category in the wellness sector, followed by physical appearance such as beauty and skincare products and fitness products and services. In terms of markets, Asia Pacific is the leading region for the wellness industry, representing over a third of global spend on wellness. North America represents around 30% of the global market and Europe just over one quarter. On a per capita basis however, North Americans spend more than any other world region and nearly three times more than Europeans, who rank second. More details of the breakdown by country across each region can be obtained from m1nd-set upon request.

Travellers are increasingly conscious of the importance of their mental well-being while travelling

of travellers claim to feel stressed at least at one point while travelling already before COVID

of travellers consider more important the own mental wellbeing when travelling vs pre-pandemic

of travellers are more worried about the physical wellbeing while travelling vs pre-pandemic

REPORT

Relaxation, safety and outdoor / nature are considered the most important travel features in 2021 OVERALL TRAVELLERS PREFERENCES FOR DIFFERENT ACTIVITIES Relaxation / Meditation

36%

Travel to safe destinations

33% 27%

Outdoor activities / nature

20%

Dining / eating out

18%

Trips to all-inclusive hotels

16%

Local cultural trips

15%

Family / friends Shopping

13%

Arts and history

13% 12%

Trips including package deal

Sport / adventure

Group tours / activities Activities close to home

According to m1nd-set, the tendency among global travellers and their concern about their physical and mental health and wellbeing is in line with the global trend and the growth of the sector in travel retail particularly mirrors that of the domestic wellness sector. The research reveals that a significant majority of travellers are more concerned than they were prior to the pandemic about both their mental health (73%) and physical wellbeing (87%). Anna Marchesini, Head of Business Development at m1nd-set commented: “Over one third of international travellers say they feel stressed at some point during the journey which suggests that the appropriate marketing at the right time and place, could trigger incremental spend for the health and wellness category. The traveller is certainly open to opportunities” Marchesini adds. The research also points to the desire among travelling consumers to see these wellness opportunities within the travel retail environment. 43% of travellers say they would like to see more initiatives that cater to and prioritize their mental and physical wellbeing throughout the trip. One fifth of travellers say they would be prepared to pay for meditation areas and just less than one fifth would pay for spa services and sleeping pods. “We are seeing that the focus on physical and mental wellness is a clear priority for travellers when travelling

internationally, Marchesini continued. “Relaxation and meditation activities are the number one preferred activity, expressed by 36% of travellers.” Peter Mohn, m1nd-set CEO and Owner, added: “With consumers planning to spend more on their personal health and wellness across all sectors of the industry in the coming years, we can safely say that outlook for the health and wellness industry is indeed healthy. Beauty supplements, anti-ageing products, nutrition products and meditation products and services are all areas which will see particularly strong growth.” “Digital tracking devices which monitor physical activities, heart condition and overall fitness, such as health wearables and smart watches, Mohn continued, “will inevitably experience strong growth also. We can expect both the Watches and Electronics categories to see an evolution in the product portfolio in travel retail, as retailers adapt to this trend and harness the opportunities” Mohn concluded. The opportunities are equally significant among tourists travelling specifically for health and wellness purposes, m1nd-set reports. The spend per trip among this traveller profile is considerably higher – around 35% more – than the average international traveller. Among domestic travellers, the difference is even greater with wellness tourists spending 177% more than the average domestic tourist, according to m1nd-set.

47 More information on the research can be obtained from m1nd-set by writing to info@m1nd-set.com.

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