Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, April 2011

PETOSKEY’S NEXT

Their vision for downtown ENVIRO GODMOTHER Stephanie Mills, acclaimed author, conservationist

75TH TROUT FESTIVAL Trout king, trout idol, trout karaoke … so forth

A Place Beyond Beauty

Set high upon a bluff, this classic Shingle style home seamlessly blends modern convenience with the timeless sense of old-world craftsmanship. The open and spacious floor plan with more than 6,400 square feet of interior living space and 140 of waterfront, exudes intimacy and charm making it a tranquil haven for entertaining guests - and a most idyllic place to nest with family.

A rare opportunity presented at $4,995,000. Jaime Rae Turnbull 248-672-2020 eagleislandmi.com

Live it Up, North

Beaches, small towns, cabins in the woods and a parcel with original blueprints for a Frank Lloyd Wright cottage waiting to be built. Our annual

An angler examines the flavors and fantasia of the National Trout Festival, celebrating its 75th birthday this year.

44 Next Gen, Petoskey

They must evolve with a fast-changing marketplace, but hold tight to traditions that built the downtown. That’s the challenge facing a fresh class of Petoskey entrepreneurs.

52 The Future Ain’t What It Used To Be

As another Earth Day nears, nationally renowned environmentalist, author and Northern Michigander Stephanie Mills shares thoughts on what’s ahead for spaceship Earth.

Smart Spaces

NHC10 A Cottage Named Betty Lou

NHC20 Model of Efficiency

NHC28 Up North Infinity

NHC34 550 Stylish Square Feet

Northern Style: Cathleen Elkington Shops Suttons Bay

Treasures from the shore

Find the North you’re looking for.

If it’s April it’s time to go to MyNorth.com and plan your Up

vacation. Here’s where to start:

Lodging

Book early and score your dream cottage or hotel room. (Click Vacation and choose either Hotels & Motels or Rent a Cottage).

Restaurant

Dozens of possibilities for breakfast, lunch and dinner in Traverse City, Petoskey and all around the North. (Click Guides & Resources, then Restaurant Guide.)

Vacation

Click on Vacation and browse our articles—we regularly post some of the greatest escape deals under the Northern sun!

A MyNorth Media Publication

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Wyatt Fellows debwf@traversemagazine.com

VICE PRESIDENT EDITORIAL/EDITOR

Jeff Smith smith@traversemagazine.com

MANAGING EDITOR Elizabeth Edwards lissa@traversemagazine.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Kate Bassett

Emily Bingham

Bob Butz

Lisa Doublestein

Mary Ellen Geist

Tim Tebeau

ART DIRECTOR Bob Wilcox bob@traversemagazine.com

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Theresa Burau-Baehr theresa@traversemagazine.com

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Claire Stortz claire@traversemagazine.com

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Todd Zawistowski todd@traversemagazine.com

WEB DIRECTOR Michael Thompson michael@traversemagazine.com

VIDEOGRAPHER Kris Riley kriley@traversemagazine.com

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Jim Driver jdriver@traversemagazine.com

Ann Gatrell anng@traversemagazine.com

Lisa Gillespie lgillespie@traversemagazine.com

Jeff Hale jhale@traversemagazine.com

Jill Hayes jhayes@traversemagazine.com

Jonathan Campbell jcampbell@traversemagazine.com

Amy Artz Joslin amyj@traversemagazine.com

Cyndi Ludka ludka@traversemagazine.com

Candace Morse cmorse@traversemagazine.com

MARKETING DIRECTOR Rachel North rnorth@traversemagazine.com

CIRCULATION

FULFILLMENT MANAGER Jodi G. Simpson jsimpson@traversemagazine.com

OFFICE MANAGER/ EVENTS EDITOR Monterey Wheeler monterey@traversemagazine.com

CONTROLLER Kirstin Gorney kirstin@traversemagazine.com

2008 Silver Award— General Excellence (CRMA)

2007 Magazine of the Year (IRMA)

2007 Silver Award— General Excellence (CRMA)

2006 Bronze Award— Civic Journalism (CRMA)

2005 Silver Award— General Excellence (CRMA)

2003 Gold Award— General Excellence (CRMA)

Editorial & Advertising Offices

148 East Front Street Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231-941-8174

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Reprints

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Prism Publications Inc., 148 E. Front St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, P.O. Box 469053, Escondido, CA 92046. Advertising rates available upon request.

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in dazzling beads

sterling silver, 14k gold, Swarovski® crystal, colored stones, Italian Murano glass and our exclusive Disney Collection.

2007 IRMA Magazine of the Year

2008 CRMA General Excellence Silver

Rachel North, our marketing director, likes to tell the story about Henry Ford and recycling: Ford asked the companies that delivered parts to him in wooden crates to drill very specific holes in different sides of the crates. When the parts were delivered, Ford had his people break down the crates into four pieces of wood, each of which was used in his cars—the holes drilled in one side might have matched where the drive shaft came through the floor. He was a master recycler, not because he had a predisposition to protecting the environment, but because he was cheap! Recycling made good business sense.

Substitute working to protect and sustain Northern Michigan’s natural resources for those wooden boxes, and you have the simple reason that natural resource protection is key to the economy of this region. It’s just smart business.

The largest engines of our economy, agriculture and tourism, have an obvious relationship to the land, water and landscape. But it goes beyond the obvious. Studies show that the very people most likely to keep our small businesses afloat and ultimately thriving—the people who will choose independent, entrepreneurial shopping experiences over big box shopping— are the same people attracted to scenic landscapes, open space, outdoor recreation, clean and plentiful natural resources and intact communities. Destroy those things and we have destroyed the natural, profitable market for our business community.

In addition, protecting our natural resources supports the efforts of our biggest employers in health care and manufacturing who recruit top talent to our region. We have great health care, schools and cultural experiences but it is challenging to compete for top people against larger cities that also have research universities and a plethora of fascinating jobs. Why do professionals choose us? They want the balanced life we offer, combining professional challenge and success with living in a beautiful, accessible outdoor environment and livable communities.

I made these points as part of a panel of five business owners and professionals in Northern Michigan at a forum put on by the Natural Resources Network of the Grand Vision. Jim MacInnis, a panelist and CEO of Crystal Mountain Resort, acknowledged that clean, natural resources and scenic landscapes are key to his business. He went on to speak eloquently about resource protection, the finite nature of those resources and the potential damage to the planet.

Naturally Profitable

BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

Matt Myers, one of the founders of Broneah Kiteboarding and M22, the clothing and merchandise business that sports that logo, stressed that it isn’t complicated—without clean water, wind, landscapes and people seeking those things, he’s out of business. Matt and his brother, Keegan, represent young entrepreneurs who came home and are committed to working and living a life rooted in business success and the preservation of our natural environment.

Kim Pontius, executive director of TAAR, the organization for Realtors in the Grand Traverse region, said every TAAR Realtor asked for the key to their business success would point first to the bays, then the lakes, rivers and woods. But Kim doesn’t stop there. Under his leadership, 10 percent of his organization’s Realtors have passed the green build certification. In fact, his organization leads the country in the percentage of green build Realtors and is a benchmark for this initiative of the National Association of Realtors. Grand Traverse is on the map as a region whose Realtors understand that natural resource protection and green building initiatives are good for their businesses, good for the region’s economy and ultimately good for the community in which they live, work and raise their families.

Gene LaFave, a developer who renovates existing buildings as well as developing new projects, acknowledged the role natural resources play in attracting buyers. Gene also spoke to the challenges that regulations pose to his ability to succed.

At one point, I suggested that very few people come to Northern Michigan to get rich in the traditional sense—there are places where that path is much easier and more assured. Rather, for most of us “getting rich” means figuring out how to succeed in our businesses while also living a life surrounded by beauty, clean natural resources and livable communities. That path leading to success in our businesses, as well as our lives, is inextricably linked to natural resource protection.

Gene followed with a simple statement, “I did come here to get rich.” He went on to say that America is built on wealth and on a history where people seek wealth first and then donate a portion of that money back to make the world a better place.

Michael Porter would have agreed with Gene until recently. Porter is the director of the Institute for Strategy and Competitiveness at Harvard Business School and has advised huge corporations such as Caterpillar, Dupont, Shell and Proctor and Gamble for years. In the January/February 2011 issue of Harvard Business Review he

Protect the fruits of your labor.

he published “Creating Shared Value— How to Reinvent Capitalism and Unleash a Wave of Innovation and Growth.” In it, Porter acknowledges that the corporations he works with have followed the traditional approach of creating wealth without regard to the community, and then creating Social Responsibility divisions to donate some of the profits back to nonprofits working in health, the environment, etc.

Porter sees a shift beginning to occur in business, and it is, in essence, the story of Henry Ford and his wooden boxes. Companies are discovering that there is money to be made in doing things for business reasons that also help the community. It could be as simple as getting drivers to turn off their trucks while waiting at the loading dock (saving on gas for the company and on pollution for the community). But it can also be more complex, such as identifying an existing need for Americans to eat a healthier diet, then putting innovation and marketing genius behind a healthy snack as opposed to spending millions convincing us to eat Twinkies, only to donate a portion of that money back to nonprofit health organizations through Social Responsibility efforts. The company makes money (a built-in need in the market and no need for the Social Responsibility division), and the community benefits.

Porter’s theory about where business is heading may or may not come to fruition, but Northern Michigan is already ahead in this game. We understand that there is a true need for people to be able to live and vacation in an environment like ours. As such, decisions about the future of Northern Michigan’s resources should not be viewed through the lens of environmental protection alone, but through the lens of sustaining and growing a thriving business environment in Northern Michigan, as well as a lifestyle. By answering the need people have to engage in our region’s natural resources, we benefit our businesses as well as the health and well-being of the people of our region, our state and beyond.

I think they call that a win-win.

Arbor GrAnd rApids TrAverse CiTy

Deborah Wyatt Fellows, Editor in Chief DEBWF@TRAVERSEMAGAZINE.COM

You’ve worked hard to build a good life for your family. We work hard to ensure your family can continue to enjoy the fruits of your labor. The Best Lawyers in America named us “#1 in Traverse City in Trusts and Estates.” So call us for help with wills, trusts, powers of attorney, probate, Medicaid planning and more.

ENVIRONMENTAL LAW

Alton Davis, (ex-)Supreme Court Justice

Last fall, when State Supreme Court Justice Betty Weaver resigned, Governor Granholm chose Grayling-based judge Alton Davis to take Weaver’s place and serve until judges from the November election were sworn in. Alton lost his election race, but during the few months he served, he ended up writing a decision that environmentalists cheered as a hallmark because it restored the rights of any Michigan citizen to sue the state when its decisions impaired the environment. The original case challenged an environmental permit that allowed an oil company to pump contaminated groundwater through a treatment system and then discharge the water into a small tributary of the Au Sable River. Themes of the case were serendipitously tied to important themes in Judge Davis’s life. With trout opener this month, we checked in with the judge to get some backstory.

Like Traverse City?

Judge, distill for us the nut of the decision. Why was it important?

The most important part of that decision, from my point of view, is it put the law back to where it had been prior to decisions of the [Michigan] Supreme Court in the last couple of years, decisions that had changed the application of the law dramatically.

The court was ignoring requirements of the statute passed during the Milliken administration that recognized the importance of the environment in the state constitution and to the people of Michigan. The law made it clear that any person in the state perceiving environmental damage could file suit to alleviate it.

Just to be clear, the court did not say the statute was unconstitutional, they just ignored that key provision?

Correct, they just ignored the statute, which caused a great deal of problems.

You have some important connections to the Au Sable River and Northern waters. Tell us about that.

Discover the Many Benefits of Fractional Ownership

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For 20 years, my family lived on the East Branch of the Au Sable, then we moved to Lake Margrethe [nearby]. Being a Michigan person, and in particular a Northern Michigan person, I have a deep appreciation for the sanctity of the environment.

So how did this decision, so central to your experience and ideals, end up in your hands to write?

It was purely serendipitous. If you are one of the judges in the majority, they have an entirely random draw. It’s a strange system that I’m not at liberty to discuss. So I stood there and watched it happen, and it was just astonishing that it came to me.

We learned recently that the attorney general is trying to persuade the supreme court to re-open the decision, to reverse it. Were you surprised to hear that?

Well, the minority in the case was not happy somebody was going to correct the course. But they were in the minority. Now there are two new people on the court, but there is no point in speculating on whether the court will take up the case.

I am mildly surprised at the speed at which the attorney general found it necessary to pursue it. What accounts for that I don’t know.—J.S.

Lighten Up

Shave 10 grams off the weight of a golf driver, and you’ll increase drive distance about three yards, so say people who calculate such things. Taking the idea to extremes, lightweight golf club developer John Muir, of Cedar, engineered a driver-weight reduction of 65 grams—about 60 feet more drive distance when compared to average drivers. He targeted the innovation to women and seniors, who lose strength as they age. A Japanese firm makes the custom lightweight head, and Muir attaches it to a lightweight shaft. We like the club’s name: Traverse. (THE JAPANESE SYMBOL ON THE CLUB IS FOR CHERRY BLOSSOM.) $275–$350 Muir has run a build-your-own-golf-clubs website since 1996 and is a golf club DIY devotee himself. thedriverstudio.com.—J.S.

Hotel Magic

In November 2008 we wrote that Traverse City hotelier Alex Mowczan was leading the way with environmentally smart innovations in hotel management, both in daily operations (like less toxic cleaners) and in constructing

LOCAL FOOD

his newest property (super energy efficient), the Cambria Suites. Now he and his team are proving that doing right by the environment can do right for business too. At the end of 2010, Mowczan’s new hotel was rated the No. 1 hotel in the Cambria Suites chain based on customer satisfaction and was the No. 1 hotel in revenue generation.

Mowczan’s hotel magic is fast becoming legendary. His TC Comfort Inn is also ranked No. 1 in the chain (567 hotels) based on cus-

TheGood Seed

tomer satisfaction. And the TC Best Western, also run by Mowczan’s company, Summerside Properties, has won a Chairman’s Award for six years running, a feat that’s “almost unheard of,” says Ron Robinson, director of hotel operations for Summerside. “That’s one of the oldest properties in the chain. It doesn’t even have an elevator or other things hotels have today. It’s all about the service, making people feel welcome, making them feel at home.”—J.S.

Back in the day, a farming region naturally evolved a local seed stock tailored to the particulars of its growing conditions. Farmers kept seeds from their biggest and best produce. They traded seeds with other farmers at seed exchanges. Each year, produce improved.

But then, same ole tale … big companies took over, farmers bought seed from national suppliers, and the connection to specific regions vanished. Now Benzie farmer Craig Schaaf and his compadres in the local organic farming movement have set out to take the venerable seed exchange idea and go digital with it: a web-based seed exchange where farmers can buy and sell seeds from produce that grew grand and luscious right here in Northwest Michigan.

For consumers, especially local foods mavens like chef Myles Anton at Trattoria Stella, the seed exchange will mean steady progress in quality of produce. And for farmers, it could mean more income. “A butternut squash sells for about 75 cents,” Schaaf says, “but it has about $24 worth of seeds in it.” Check the exchange at MLUI.org.—J.S.

SUNDAY

EDITED BY MONTEREY WHEELER

TUESDAY

Save Yourself a Trip!

Find more information on these events at MyNorth.com, and call ahead to verify all times and dates.

Foodie alert: Chateau Chantal’s cooking class, Techniques of Italian Cooking, sends out an aromatic message, buon appetito! Traverse City, 800-969-4009, chateauchantal.com. AND MORE

ors American jazz 231-941-8082,

River North Chicago Dance Company honors American jazz composer Miles Davis. City Opera House, Traverse City, 231-941-8082, cityoperahouse.org.

DANCE

Saddle up with the Brown Bag Book Club to discuss Half Broke Horses at Traverse Area District Library. 231-932-8500, tadl.org.

LITERARY

Jump on Route 66 for a 1940’s musical revue at Interlochen. In the Mood takes you back to the big band sounds that inspired the nation during WWII. 800-681-5920, interlochen.org.

MUSIC

Springtime brings

Springtime brings romance and Chamber Music North delivers with Purely Romantic, selections by the great romantic composers. Milliken Auditorium, Traverse City, 800-836-0717, cham bermusicnorth.com.

MUSIC

Fill ‘em up for the Fresh Food Partnership could be the slogan at the Empty Bowls fundraising event. Traverse City, 231929-3696, freshfood partnership.org. AND MORE

Easter

Amical’s Cookbook Dinner Series revolutionizes some simple and delicious meals

Amical’s Cookbook Dinner Series revoluand delicious meals

à la Jamie Oliver’s Jamie’s Food Revolution Traverse City, 231-941-8888, amical.com.

AND MORE

“Streeters’ Got Talent” and you do too. Grab a mic and show your stuff tonight and every Thursday. Traverse City, 231-932-1300, groundzeroonline.com.

LOUNGE SCENE

20 Sleeping Bear Dunes comes alive in Reflections by the Bay’s presentation, “Historic Structures in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park.” Frankfort, 231-352-4671, benzieshoreslibrary.org. AND MORE

National Arbor Day is this month, the perfect time to pick out a seedling at Boardman River Nature Center’s annual sale. Traverse City, 231-941-0960, NatureisCalling.org.

NATURE

“Bodies

NATIONAL ARBOR DAY

Traverse City, 231-995-1055, dennosmuseum.org.

ART

The Second City:

Fair & Unbalanced is second to none when it comes to improv. Stumble onto their act at Milliken Auditorium in Traverse City, 231-995-1553, dennosmuseum.org.

THEATER

APRIL FOOLS' DAY, NO KIDDING!

From Michael Delp, to Bonnie Jo Campbell, to Michael Zadoorian, to Christopher Leland, the National Writers Series presents “Made in Michigan.” Traverse City, 231-941-8082, nationalwritersseries.org.

Human: Anatomy in Motion,” on exhibit at Dennos Museum offers a rare education without going to school.

PASSOVER BEGINS AT SUNDOWN

Events

Arts

Please findmore Art events at mynorth.com

Art Workshop at Solace Spa 2

This adult class, taught by noted local artist June Storm, uses a step-by-step paint along method which students of all levels find easy to follow. 12:30-3:30pm, $39/person, includes use of art supplies. No additional materials or art experience are required. Boyne Mountain, Boyne Falls, 231-549-7946, boyne.com.

30th Annual Traveling Print Show

10-May 6

A juried print exhibition features over 30 Michigan artists demonstrating a wide variety of printing techniques, from traditional to the more contemporary. Opening Sun. Apr. 10, 1-4pm. Jordan River Arts Center, East Jordan, 231-582-6399, jordanriverarts.com.

Talk About Art with Clifton Monteith 21

The Lake Ann artist shares his thoughts about “An Artist’s Work From & With Nature.” Monteith is an artist of national and international prominence. He began his professional life as an illustrator and graphic designer in New York City. For the last quarter century, he has focused almost entirely on making willow furniture. Free and open to the public. Glen Arbor Art Association, 231-334-6112, glenarborart.org.

Exposures 2011

2011 Easter Egg Hunts

April 23, 24

Benzonia

Memorial Park, Call for time, 231-882-5801

Boyne City

Veterans Memorial Park, Apr. 24, 2pm, 231-582-6222

Charlevoix East Park, 2pm, 231-547-2101

29-30

Support student creativity at a special exhibit of Leelanau County student work chosen for the publication of Exposures2011 magazine. Free event. Old Art Building, Leland, 231-256-2131, oldartbuilding.com.

From Women’s Hands

29-May 1

Over 150 female visual artists, authors, musicians and filmmakers show and sell their works at this all-female exhibition. The event connects art, community and service of the arts to an important cause: the Women’s Cancer Fund, Munson Healthcare Foundation. The fund receives 20% of all art sales and 100% of the proceeds from the art raffle and silent auction. Hagerty Center, Traverse City, 231-943-8073, fromwomenshands.com.

Dance

Please findmore Dance at mynorth.com

Free Line Dance Lessons 4, 11, 28, 25

“Just Country Kickin’ Line Dance Club” offers free line dance lessons. All ages and levels of dance expertise welcome. 7:30-9:30pm, St. Joseph Parish Center, Manistee, 231-233-8092, justcountrykickin.com.

Just Country Kickin’ Line Dance 5, 12, 19, 26

“Just Country Kickin’ Line Dance Club” invites you to dance with them every Tuesday. All ages and levels of dance expertise welcome. Dance to a wide variety of music from country to rap, and dance styles from cha-cha to waltz. 6:30-7pm Free lesson, 7-9pm Open dance. Manistee, 231-233-8092, justcountrykickin.com.

Northwoods International folk Dancing 6, 13, 20, 27

Every Wednesday, $3, at Fitness Center in Traverse City, 231-947-6675.

Up North Big Band Swing Dance 30

Experience the magic of the 30’s and 40’s big band sound and the dance styles popularized by the music. Lindy and jitterbug dance styles are taught as well as other ballroom styles. The Up North Big Band provides music with an 18-piece Big Band and all the high energy tunes from that era. Instruction begins at 6:45pm, dance at 7:30pm, beginners are welcome. $10 adult, $6 under 18 years and free under 5 years. Community Center, Petoskey, 231-675-4508, blissfest.org.

Fairs, Festivals &Holidays

75 Annual National Trout Festival 27-May 1

This year’s theme: “75 Years of Family, Fishing and Fun!” 2011

East Jordan High School/Easter Fun & Games, 10am, 231-536-2534 (Sign up at 9am)

Frankfort

Mineral Springs Park Pavilion, 10am 231-352-7251

Interlochen Cycle-Moore Grounds Noon, 231-276-9091

Ludington Ludington High School Gym, 1pm, 231-852-0861

Manistee

Jefferson Elementary School, 1pm, 231-398-3262

Pentwater Village Green. Noon 231-869-4150

Petoskey Young State Park, 11am 231-582-7523

Thompsonville

Crystal Mountain Resort 10am, 800-968-7686

Traverse City Civic Center, 11am 231-947-3220

Village @ Grand Traverse Commons Front Lawn, 11:30am 231-941-1900

King and Queen are Dave Wolfe and Elizabeth Dunham. Fun for everyone includes trout fishing contests, special breakfasts, family entertainment tent, queen coronation, Kalkaska Idol, children’s fishing contest, parades, special dinners, Taste of Trout, craft show, flea market and fireworks. Kalkaska, 231258-9103, nationaltroutfestival.com.

Kids

Please find Kids events at mynorth.com and/or subscribe free to Kids Up North at MyNorth.com/kids.

Kids Events at Interlochen Public Library 1-27 Apr. 1, 15 Baby Play Time, for babies under the age of 2, 10am. Apr. 6, 13, 20, 27 Preschool Story Hour. Two sessions: 10am and 1pm. Apr. 13, 27 Read to Katie the Therapy Dog, 4-6pm. Apr. 20 P.J. Story Time. Stories, a craft and snack, P.J.s optional, for families, 6:30pm. Interlochen, 231-276-6767, interlochenpubliclibrary.org.

Saturday Sampler 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 Saturday Sampler lasts 35-40 minutes and is recommended for a variety of ages, 11-11:45am. It is free and open to the public, families welcome. Traverse Area District Library, Traverse City, 231-932-8503, tadl.org.

Story Hour at Horizon Books 4, 11, 18, 25 Bring the kids to hear some stories, do some activities and make a craft. 10-11am, Traverse City, 231-946-7290, horizonbooks.com.

Celebration for Young Children 30 Downtown Traverse City hosts this Annual Celebration, with activities throughout the area. Events take place at the City Opera House (Hands-on Activity Tables and Performances), Horizon Books and many other shops Downtown. 231-922-2050, downtowntc.com.

Winter Blues Festival

Third week in February

Spring Open House

First Friday in June

Farmers Market

Friday Mornings throughout the Summer

Concerts in the Park Mid June through Mid August

Gallery Walk

Third Thursday in June

July 4th Celebration

Always on July 4th

Art in the Park

Third Saturday in July

Sidewalk Sales

Last Weekend in July

Festival on the Bay Third Weekend in August

Downtown Petoskey Shopping Scramble

First Saturday in October

Downtown Trick or Treat

Last Saturday in October

Stafford’s Downtown Petoskey Holiday Parade

Saturday after Thanksgiving

Holiday Open House

First Friday in December

Events

Book Discussion Groups 6, 13, 14, 21

Brown Bag Book Club

April 6, Noon, Half Broke Horses by Jeannette Walls, Traverse Area Dist. Library, 231-932-8500

Evening Book

Discussion April 6, 6:30pm, MyAntonia by Willa Cather, Interlochen Public Library, 231-276-6767

Books ‘n Brie Book Club

April 13, 3:30pm, Franklin and Winston by

Literary

Jon Meacham, Helena Township Library 231-331-431, Alden

Morning Book

Discussion April 14, 10am, Wolf Hall by Hilary Mantel, Interlochen Public Library, 231-276-6767

Kalkaska Library Book Club April 21, 7pm, TheWivesofHenry Oades by J. Moran, Kalkaska County Library, 231.258.9411

Please findmore Literary Events at mynorth.com

Events at Horizon Books

9, 23, 30

Apr. 9 Poetry Reading & Signing with Robert Fanning, author of AmericanProphet . Apr. 23 “Birds of Prey” presentation with Rebecca Lessard, 11am-noon. Apr. 30 Author signing with Tom Henderson, Blood in the Snow , 3-5pm. Traverse City, 231-946-7290, horizonbooks.com.

An Evening with Paula McLain

14

Paula McLain received an MFA in poetry from the University of Michigan and has been awarded fellowships from Yaddo, the MacDowell Colony and the National Endowment for the Arts. McLain’s highly anticipated second novel, The Paris Wife hit bookstores nationwide in February, 2011. Hosted by the Traverse City National Writers Series, 7pm, all tickets $15. A large portion of the proceeds provide scholarships for highschool students seeking careers in the cityoperahouse.org.

Lounge Scene

Please findLounge Scene at mynorth.com

Unplugged at Uncorked

2, 9, 16, 23, 30

Live music from local artists every Sat., 6-9pm. Get comfy in the Unwined Lounge, play card games, board games, sit and chat, enjoy a “made-in-Michigan” beverage. Cherry Stop/ Uncorked, 231-668-6929, uncorkedtc.com.

Live Music at Lil Bo 5-29

Apr. 5, 12, 29, 26 TC Celtic. Apr. 6, 13, 20, 27 The Bohemians. Apr. 7 Comedy Night. Apr. 8 Jazz North. Apr. 14 Bo Bossa.

Apr. 15 Zen Stew. Apr. 21, 28 Ron & Ronnie. Apr. 22 Willy & The Wanna Be. Apr. 29 Dawn Campbell. Traverse City, 231-946-6925, lilbo.com.

Streeters’ Got Talent Contest 7, 14, 21, 28

Streeters’ Got Talent and Karaoke Contest every Thurs. Doors open at 7pm; contest at 8pm; open karaoke at 10pm. 21 Years and older, no cover w/$5 purchase.18-20 Years $5 at the door. $10 to enter contest. Prizes every week and a chance to win $1,000 Grand prize. Traverse City, 231-932-1300, groundzeroonline.com.

Music

Please findmore Music at mynorth.com

Singer/Songwriter Jesse Winchester in Concert 9

Jesse Winchester has a special knack for capturing vivid small-town vignettes, heartfelt love and love-lost situa-

tions and good-time celebrations. 8pm, $25. City Opera House, Traverse City, 231-941-8082, cityoperahouse.org.

Traverse Symphony Orchestra 10 BrahmsRequiem . Kevin Rhodes conductor, Kimberley Dolanski soprano, Robin Buck baritone. In seven powerful movements, the combined forces of orchestra, chorus and soloists convey Johannes Brahms’ message of hope. 3pm, Corson Auditorium, Interlochen, 231-947-7120, traversesymphony.org.

On the Porch Concert Series: Michael Smith 17 Sleder’s Family Tavern “On the Porch” concert series features singer/songwriter Michael Smith. “One of the best songwriters in the English language ... an enchanting and riveting performer,”ChicagoMagazine . 7pm, $15-$20. Sleder’s Family Tavern, Traverse City, 231-947-9213, sleders.com.

Winter Folk Music Featuring Rick Potter 25 Winter Folk Concert Series celebrates Michigan folk artists. The featured performer is up first, followed by audience participation in an open mic session. 6:38-8:30pm, Charlevoix Public Library, 231-237-7340, charlevoixlibrary.org.

The Irish Rovers 12

The Irish Rovers, ambassadors of Irish music, have charmed and entertained people around the world, and continue to delight audiences with their exciting stage show. 7pm, $26$28. Kirtland Community College, Roscommon, 989-275-6777, kirtlandcenter.com.

Nature

Please findmore Nature at mynorth.com

Events at Raven Hill Discovery Center 9, 23 Apr. 9 2nd Saturday Science Series, a family affair with a study on “Sounds of Music,” free admission. Apr. 23 Earth Day Celebration with activities focusing on protecting Mother Earth. Both events noon-4pm. East Jordan, 231-536-3369, ravenhilldiscoverycenter.org.

5th Annual Earth Day Celebration

23

Join the naturalists for Grass River’s Earth Day celebration. Egg hunt “Grass River style.” Games and activities focus on how we can take care of our environment, 2-4pm. Grass River Natural Area, Bellaire, 231-533-8314, grassriver.org.

Sports

Please findSports at mynorth.com

Traverse Area Community Sailing 5-28

All high school students are welcome to participate in weekly practices. Qualified sailors travel to weekend regattas to compete against other Midwest high schools. Junior high school students are welcome to join the practices and compete in JV events. Prior sailing experience is not necessary. Tues., Wed., Thurs. 4-6:30pm, Cornwell Sailing Center on Boardman Lake. Traverse City, 231-590-5341, tacsailing.com.

Theater

Please findmore Theater at mynorth.com

Community Cinema Series at Dennos Museum 7 Bhutto.When the first woman to lead an Islamic nation, Benazir Bhutto, the former prime minister of Pakistan, was struck down by an assassin in December 2007, her untimely death sent shock waves throughout the world, transforming Bhutto from political messiah to a martyr in the hearts of her people. 7pm, free admission. Traverse City, 231-995-1055, dennosmuseum.org.

Off the Wall Film Series

The Man Who Sued God is a 2001 feature, with no rating. Comedian Billy Connolly plays Steve Myers, a lawyer turned fisherman whose life goes topsy-turvy when lightning destroys his boat. Soup and bread are served at 6pm, film starts at 7pm. Bring your own beverage. Register by calling the

premier properties of Northern Michigan Crystal Downs

Expansive views of Lake Michigan and Sleeping Bear Bay from the architecturally designed two story shingle home on the bluff. Located across from the sixteenth fairway of the famous classic MacKenzie golf course. The screened porch and patio overlook the lake, living room, dining room and kitchen with fireplace and bedrooms also have gorgeous views. Beautiful gardens, irrigation system, gas generator and A/C, security system, lower level steam bath, 3 car heated garage and many other wonderful features. Membership in Crystal Downs is not guaranteed with the purchase. (1723745) $2,495,000.

Suzanne J. Voltz, Associate Broker 408 Main St., Frankfort, MI 49635 231-352-7123

suzy.voltz@century21.com

www.C21SleepingBearRealty.com

Crystal Lake Views, Access

Darling 2BR/1BA summer cottage nestled in the hardwoods with beach privileges at Chimney Corners on Crystal Lake. Gorgeous stone fireplace, great views, screened porches, freestanding woodstove, full basement, this cottage sleeps 18 – the perfect place to settle in with family and friends for the summer. Can easily be converted to year-round living. $319,000.

Suzanne J. Voltz, Associate Broker 408 Main St., Frankfort, MI 49635 231-352-7123

suzy.voltz@century21.com

www.C21SleepingBearRealty.com

7

library, no reservation reservation required for movie only at 7pm. Donations accepted. Alden, 231-331-4318.

Moon Over Buffalo

Wine&Food

7-10

The comedy by Ken Ludwig tries to follow the contortions of a theater family as they deal with the ineptitude of stardom. Presented by Cadillac Footliters, directed by Richard Kraemer. Apr. 7, 8, 9, 10 Shows at 7:30pm Apr. 9 Shows at 2pm and 7:30pm. Ticket range: $8-$10. Cadillac High School Auditorium, 231-775-7336, cadillacfootliters.com.

And More

Please findmore And More at mynorth.com

Annual “Bowling on Main Street”

1

Harbor Springs Chamber sets up real bowling balls and pins—no automatic pinsetters in this game! This rite of spring is open to all ages, 3:15pm. 231-526-7999, harborspringschamber.com.

Solace Spa Meditation Course 3, 10, 17, May 1, 8, 15

Learn several types of meditation including breath awareness, simple mindfulness, mantra, candle gazing, japa and guided meditation, facilitated by Suzi Blanckaert. Registration required, 12:30-2pm, $50/members, $85/non-members. Boyne Mountain, Boyne Falls, 800-GO-BOYNE, boyne.com.

4th Annual France vs. Italy 14

Wine Dinner at Trattoria Stella

Two of Northern Michigan’s favorite chefs once again go dish for dish in their respective traditions. Representing France: Chef Guillaume Hazaël-Massieux of La Bécasse in Burdickville. Representing Italy: Chef Myles Anton of Trattoria Stella. Six courses, a base ingredient for each, and two dishes served side-by-side six times each paired with a French wine and an Italian wine. $100/person plus tax & gratuity. Trattoria Stella, Traverse City, 231-929-8989, StellaTC.com.

Annual Home & Business Expo 15-16

Vendors from Cheboygan and the surrounding area on hand to give you ideas for remodeling, decorating or just making your home or business more relaxing. Cheboygan Ice Pavilion, 231-627-7183, cheboygan.com.

Annual Titanic Dinner at Stafford’s Perry Hotel 16

An extraordinary evening of dining, entertainment and an historic presentation of the Titanicby expert historian David Kaplan. Costumed servers, authentic display pieces, period dress optional and a six course-dining event. $55 per guest, reservations recommended. Petoskey, 231-347-4000, staffords.com.

Wine Immersion Seminar 23

Your day includes a tour of the cellar with an explanation of the winemaking process, vineyard walk, short explanation of the art of tasting wine, peasant’s lunch, and six-course leisurely dinner with accompanying wines. Each course, from the appetizer to the dessert, is specially paired with Chateau Chantal wines. 11am-6:30pm, $135/person. Traverse City, 800-969-4009, chateauchantal.com.

4th Annual Chef’s Challenge 29-30

Chef teams from Northern and Southern Michigan present the state’s great agricultural diversity at its succulent finest, complemented by fine Michigan wines, spirits and microbrews.The weekend includes seminars for the public, culinary exhibits, great food and beverages and chef competitions. All proceeds go to help Challenge Mountain and 100% of all donated dollars go directly to Challenge Mountain programs. Boyne Mountain Resort, Boyne Falls, 800-GO-BOYNE, chefs-challenge.com.

Monterey Wheeler is calendar editor of Traverse. Enter your event information at community. mynorth.com/events two to three months prior to event date. Questions or more information email Monterey@traversemagazine.com.

Steak

April 4th-10th 2011

The rediscovery of simple & delicious meals for a new generation

By Jamie Oliver

Lunch and Dinner Service Daily Sunday Brunch 9am to 3pm 229 E. Front Street • Traverse City 231-941-8888 • www.amical.com

Reservations Accepted • Gift Certificates

Cookbook Dinner Series

Start living your dream today!

Tapawingo has had it’s doors closed since early 2009 and is just waiting for someone with talent, drive and enthusiasm for fine cuisine to come re-open them. The location of the restaurant alone is breath taking. Ellsworth, sits in the heart of Northern Michigan and offers four seasons of fun.

Tapawingo is calling your name, the kitchens are stocked with equipment and are ready to be returned to use! The dining rooms are just waiting to filled and tableware waiting to serve. The liquor license accompanies the sale of this property. The lake view, with 450’ of waterfront, is waiting for you to come and enjoy!

Now is the time to take advantage of turning your dreams in to reality. Call today to schedule your visit to Northern Michigan’s finest opportunity!

Mike Stark

231-357-2347 cell

231-536-7700 office

109 Mill St., East Jordan www.starkrealty.com

Spring Outside

Fish, mushrooms, turkeys … the great outdoors is calling you North.

BY LISA DOUBLESTEIN

Thank April’s showers for the mushroom bounty, for the spring scents that drive turkeys wild (and into season), and for the high, rushing waters of area rivers, open to trout fishing at the end of the month. Head outside to get your share.

Take your Grouper to

Fishtown

Itching to do some fishing? Head to Leland’s Fishtown, where the 145-year-old fishing village embraces the freshwater existence. Drop your bags at the Falling Waters Lodge, with view of Lake Michigan, Fishtown and the water tumbling over the small dam on the Leland River (FROM $65, 231-256-9832, FALLINGWATERSLODGE.COM)

(Turkey)-strut through Town

Showers: optional. Turkey call: required (during spring turkey season, anyway). Stay at the Chain O’ Lakes Campground in Bellaire, where cabins are warm and rustic, dogs are welcome, and restrooms are “nearby” (from $40, 231-533-8432, chainolakescamp.com).

Sustenance: smoked meat from The Bellaire Smokehouse, where owners live on the premises and have been voted Best Specialty Shop in the county (231-533-5069, bellairesmokehouse.com). Beer: 20 on tap at Short’s Brewing Company, downtown Bellaire. Try the Smoked Apple Ale, with equal parts smoke and sweetness (231-533-6622, shortsbrewing.com).

Pack your lunch with fresh smoked fish, fish sausage and jerky from legendary Carlson’s of Fishtown (231-256-9801, CARLSONS@FISHTOWN.INFO). Then board Captain Ben’s boat for a charter trip over the bountiful fresh waters (FROM $325, AND THEY FILLET YOUR CATCH AT THE END OF THE TRIP; 231-218-5176; FISH DAYDREAMER.COM).

All the Fungis and Gals

With an experienced guide, comb the forest floor near Petoskey to find asparagus and mushrooms, then scour localsource and gourmet food stops. In two hands-on cooking classes, work with chef Ken Willoughby to create an organic, savory supper of your foraged foods ($225, 866-240-1650, LEARN GREATFOODS.COM). Still hungry? Brush the dirt off your knees and set your sights on the H.O. Rose Dining Room at Stafford’s Perry Hotel, where on April 16 they’ll feature their annual Titanic Dinner. Asian bulgogi beef wraps, roasted loin of lamb en croute, potato seared ahi tuna and seared filet of beef are delicacies on the six-course menu ($55, 231-347-4000, STAFFORDS. COM). Return to nature to sleep near the shore at Camp Pet-OSe-Ga in Alanson, where warm cabins offer views of Pickerel Lake, and the backyard is acres of forestland (FROM $35, 231-3476536, EMMETCOUNTY.ORG/PARKSANDREC).

TRAVEL EDITOR LISA DOUBLESTEIN WRITES FROM PETOSKEY. TRAVEL@TRAVERSEMAGAZINE.COM

Fishtown, Leland

FABULOUS 28 ACRE ESTATE OVERLOOKING THOUSANDS OF ACRES AND MILES OF COASTLINE

This beautiful property just minutes north of Leland has unparalleled vistas to Lake Michigan and North Lake Leelanau plus an inviting 7050 square foot main home with a casual elegance and warmth. Interior features include a comfortable great room overlooking the panoramic view with gourmet kitchen and stone fireplace, a stunning custom cherry library, large master suite, both indoor exercise pool and outdoor swimming pool, sauna, greenhouse, sun room, office and more. Beyond the main house there is a 3-bedroom, 2 1/2 bath guest house, bunk house, tennis court, 3 accessory buildings plus a stable, pastures and much more.

$2,600,000 - MLS# 1721242

Beautifully remodeled Peninsula 4 Bedroom/ 3 Bath home with fantastic westerly views over West Bay & 150’ of Private frontage on 1.37 acres. Sit on the beach, have a fire and watch the sunset.

Washing Off Winter

BY MARY ELLEN GEIST

It’s time for that yearly springtime ritual performed by cottage owners across the globe: washing off what’s sometimes months of dust, the kind of grime that accumulates only in a home that hasn’t been inhabited for several months. Scrubbing off the residue left by snow on sidings. Removing sticky cobwebs. Wiping the winter film off windows. Peeling the dried leaves of several seasons from the screens. Moving the summer furniture back onto the porch. Taking off the storm doors. Plucking the water skis, sailboats, kayaks and canoes out of storage and placing them on the shore.

My grandfather bought this cottage on Walloon Lake in the 1950’s, but it was built in the late 1800’s. In its original state, it was something close to a lean-to. Over the course of a century, owners added oddly

shaped rooms in helter-skelter fashion to what began as a one-room structure. The walls were not plumb, the floors not level.

Though we had electricity, the first summer I can remember at the cottage we pumped water from the ground by hand from a well we shared with the neighbors. We even had a dark green outhouse with a half-moon carved out above the door. We didn’t acquire a real toilet and sinks with faucets until I was five years old. In the winter, when the place was boarded up, snow came in through the screens. In the summer, when the storms moved across Walloon Lake, we ran to get pails to push under the windows where water rushed in.

One year when we came Up North to get the cottage ready for the season, we found a pillowcase full of beechnuts— probably gathered by a hungry squirrel— in the upstairs bedroom. Assortments of seeds always showed up in drawers, cupboards and bedsheets. One spring, we found tiny teeth marks on a bar of soap someone had accidentally left in the bathroom: a mouse, we presumed, or some other rodent desperate for food. Dried up tangles of daddy long legs corpses dangled from the ceilings in spider webs. And, of course, there were mouse droppings galore.

Sometimes, after we thought we had scoured almost everything, and placed

fresh linens on all the beds, we’d hear a strange flapping sound above us. We’d look up in the eaves, and a tiny bat would be staring down at us as if we were the intruders, not him.

Every spring, it seemed, there were icky things. One year, a bird got in, but apparently couldn’t get out. We discovered its fragile skeleton and a few gray feathers splayed near the fireplace—a nuthatch, I believe.

Chipmunks, mice, squirrels, birds, an assortment of insects and spiders, they took our places each year after we left at summer’s end. They moved in, perhaps, in October, and stayed until spring, when we arrived with our arsenal of brooms and vacuums to drive them out.

I always had such mixed feelings about the presence of these creatures in our lives. They were trespassers and invaders. They created hours of tedious work. But I was strangely happy the chipmunks used my pillowcases to store their food; that the mice had a place to sleep when the cold made their own homes uninhabitable.

Now that I live at Walloon full time, and even though the cottage is now enlarged and winterized—no squirrels or mice run amok—I still participate in the ritual of washing off winter. I have my own springcleaning dance, which usually begins at the

“In the depth of winter I finally learned that there was in me an invincible summer.” -Albert Camus

MARY ELLEN GEIST

Up in Michigan

Washing Off WInter

end of March or early April. It involves vacuums, pails of water filled with Spic and Span, scrub brushes, Oxi Clean and dusters. I reach into places I usually don’t go to remove the residue, to get rid of the evidence of the cold and white.

Last year, washing off winter took on new meaning.

When I came back Up North last spring after a few days away, the lake was still frozen but in the process of thawing. The ice heaved and sighed, the way my father did as he died on March 17th. The sound haunted me and kept me awake at night. I will never forget that time in my life. It’s strange how sorrow makes you acutely aware and so alive. The memory of an experience sticks in ways it might not otherwise.

I remember that—almost from the moment I arrived at the cottage—a huge

I put a black and white photo of my father there along with his pitch pipe and his favorite Frisbee. Then I cleaned some more.

One day while I was scrubbing, I found the silver Alzheimer’s identification bracelet my father wore as a precaution in the event he became lost. The funeral director handed it to us along with the box of my father’s ashes: “I AM WOODY” was etched along with his phone number and address on a small oblong medallion next to the purple medic alert insignia. I held it in my hand. I wanted to feel it against my skin the way he felt it against his. I remember thinking, This silver chain still contains his DNA. I placed it next to his photo. And began cleaning again.

By the time the first hepatica bloomed in the woods, it was as if the image of the man my father became at the end of his life—the man with Alzheimer’s—began

The neighbors and I kayaked along the shore, all the way down to what we affectionately call “the foot”—Walloon Lake Village—bought ice cream, and kayaked the several miles back. My grief went away for a few of those sunny days. It felt like a gift my father had sent.

warm wind began to roar. It blew waves over the ice, melting most of it in just one day. The next day, within what seemed like a matter of hours, tiny bulbs of hyacinths appeared. The leaves of ramps shot up like green flames out of the soil. The stems of trilliums reached out of the earth, grasping for spring. A strange heat wave arrived. It was 79 degrees on a day in late March. The neighbors and I kayaked along the shore, all the way down to what we affectionately call “the foot”—Walloon Lake Village—bought ice cream, and kayaked the several miles back. My grief went away for a few of those sunny days. It felt like a gift my father had sent.

Then, just as suddenly, a blizzard hit, scaring off the peepers and covering up the bulbs. I made a fire, wrapped myself in a blanket on the couch, and let myself go back to grief again, sobbing. It always seemed worse in the morning, when I realized he was gone.

I made a little memorial on the surface of my grandmother’s marble-topped table.

melting away along with the spring snow. For the first time in a very long while, I could visualize him as president of his company, sitting behind his oak desk. I remembered him leading discussions at the dining room table and telling us stories about his life. I could see him performing with his beloved a capella singing group. I was able to recall him whole, all of a piece, before Alzheimer’s began to take him from us.

I went back to washing the windows. I rubbed the glass until all the streaks and fingerprints were gone. The glass shone and let the light in. I thought about how we come back inside our cottages to let the living move back in where the dead have been. The cottage was ready for summer, and ready to be inhabited again—ready for lives that will go on without my father.

Mary Ellen Geist is author of Measure of the Heart: a Father’s Alzheimer’s, a Daughter’s Return. (Hachette, 2008) She is a freelance writer, radio journalist, and singer, and lives on Walloon Lake. megpie123@earthlink.net

Living It Up It Up(North)

Beaches, small towns, cabins in the woods and a Frank Lloyd Wright cottage waiting to be built. Our smart and dreamy real estate guide to finding your slice of Northern Michigan.

TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

Harbor Springs

Legacy Properties Business, Entertaining Cabin Country

A Home by Any Other Name

Next Cool Place (Again): Harbor

Springs

If you know Harbor Springs you understand that cool—as in moneyed, chi-chi, and green-and-pink polos—is the village pedigree. But here’s a scoop on this most fashionable of Lake Michigan towns: Harbor is looking to reinvent itself. Yup, Harbor wants young families, as in folks who earn money the old fashioned way. Community leaders are jamming ideas to attract new businesses into their downtown. Though investment enticements have yet to be formalized, Harbor already has plenty to offer families—miles of Lake Michigan beaches, natural areas galore, two ski resorts in its backyard, a beloved kids sailing program and a school system that counts within its tiny graduating classes a high percentage of kids bound for the best Michigan colleges and universities and even the Ivy League. Then

there’s that it-takes-a-village spirit that all but lights up Main Street. Case in point: when 11-year-old Harbor Springs’ resident Noah Bassett broke his leg recently, the local café made a surprise hot chocolate home delivery. Here’s a live/work combo to get a young family scheming to move the brood:

118 S. Main

The plan: one parent works remotely, another runs the art gallery (antique shop? boutique?) you’ve both fantasized about for years from this 815-square-foot downtown retail shop. When school lets out the kids walk home to the Summit Street address we’ve paired this with, or stop in at the store on Main Street. Sweet!

$119,000. Graham Real Estate, 231.526.6251, grahamre.com.

510 W. Summit Street

Five bedrooms, 2.5 baths, two-car garage, a block away from Harbor Springs’ schools and a downhill saunter to Main Street.

$325,000. Graham Real Estate, 231.526.6251, grahamre.com.

4 S. Lakeshore Dr., Lake Michigan

As if 200 feet of buildable, duneswept Lake Michigan frontage near Ludington for $750,000 isn’t good enough to get you speed dialing. Also in the deal: the blueprint of a cottage specifically designed for the site by Frank Lloyd Wright (yes, we said Frank Lloyd Wright), commissioned in 1955 by a former owner of the property. The 1,560-square-foot Wright-signature Usonian home has yet to be built. Feeling up to making architectural history?

Contact Don Bradley, Lighthouse Realty, 231-845-7500, golighthouserealty.com.

Legacy Properties

What’s selling these days? Petoskey area Realtor Wally Kidd (Kidd & Leavy Real Estate) says it’s all about distinctive properties. We’d call this trilogy a standout by any measure.

Point of View, Lake Charlevoix 

Lovely, tasteful, outfitted with a bounty of Up North amenities, Point of View rolls from its 3,000 sandy feet of Lake Charlevoix shoreline into 70 acres of forest. Betwixt? A hand scribed log home, guesthouse, stables and that serenity you’ve been searching for.

$10,995,000. Wally Kidd, 231.838.2700, wallykidd.com

Funk’s Lodge, Lake Gogebic

Where some folks see miles of trees in the Upper Peninsula, real estate agent Dick Huey unearths properties that make you want to play Gatsby. His latest is Funk’s Lodge, a Craftsman-style palace on Lake Gogebic, the U.P.’s largest inland lake. We’d wax poetic but more enjoyable: pop some corn and click on the video about it on Huey’s website.

$10,500,000. Huey Real Estate. 906.228.8889, upwaterfront.com.

WRIGHT GREAT DEAL 

TOP LEFT: LESTER MORALES. OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY OF REALTORS AND DEVELOPERS

LEGACY PROPERTY: MI CASA 

South Bar Lake and Lake Michigan

Made for the person who can’t choose between the warmth of an inland lake and the expanse of a big lake—and won’t settle for anything but tasteful architecture. It takes two trams to get up to this home perched on a dune between South Bar Lake and Lake Michigan in Empire—then again, if you’re in the market for this home, you already know your way to the top.

Make it Su Casa for $1,950,000. Mark Fisher, Coldwell Banker, 231.633.5041, cbgreatlakes.com/mark.fisher.

Business & Entertaining

Is it a job or a lifestyle? Up North it can be one and the same. Presenting three ways to make a living from your dream lifestyle:

Northland Outfitters, Germfask

Work (and play) on the Upper Peninsula’s Fox River five months a year, then maybe, what, head for Tahiti? Your call. To help make it happen, know that this livery/campground/camp store is an established business that comes with 1,400 feet of river frontage, more than 14 acres, a two-bedroom home, and $65,000 of inventory. Folks come from all over the world to paddle and fish the Fox— Hemingway did, too.

$495,000 Rita Rathburn, Coldwell Banker, 231.409.3035, realtythatsells.com.

Willow Vineyard, Suttons Bay

You, traipsing round trellised vines bare of feet and dirndl-clad (or whatever).

Cabin Country

Wear what you like. It’s your winery. But know that winemaking at Willow Vineyard is serious business. These 11-plus acres bosomed in the heart of Leelanau Peninsula wine country produce award-winning pinot gris, pinot noir and chardonnay. When the winemaking day is done, relax on the deck of your European-esque villa and drink in one of the most stunning views in any wine country, anywhere. While sipping a glass of your own wine, of course.

$2 million. Shelly Brunette, Real Estate One. 231.642.6436, shelly@shellysells.com.

The Grand Victorian, Bellaire 

This stunning circa 1890’s Queen Annestyle B & B has appeared on calendars,

magazine covers and cereal and cracker boxes all over the country. It’s also garnered a slew of accolades as a B & B since 1989, including American Historic Inns Nationwide 2006 “Top 10 Romantic Inn.” Now the innkeepers are ready to retire, and the Grand Victorian is ready for a new era.

Turnkey price: $675, 000. Bob Brick, ReMax Bayshore Properties, 231.941.5600 x 203, bobbrick.com.

Deals to make you pull on the buffalo plaid.

Peaceful on the Platte

Tether ol’ Pokey to the split rail fence while you have a set on the porch, then maybe mosey down to your 350 feet on the Platte River for some fishing. Pokey feeling frisky? Run him on 20 acres of meadows and woods. Sweet home à la Honor.

$339, 900. Christine Stapleton, Stapleton Realty, 231.326.4000, cdstapleton.com

Sweet on the Betsie

A sleepy 400 feet on the Betsie River tucked on the backside of Crystal Mountain Ski Resort and Spa. The property alone is enough to call this a deal. Throw in cathedral ceilings, skylights and other nicely appointed touches, and this is an Up North property a person can cozy into.

$275,000. Bill Hollenbeck, Sleeping Bear Realty.231.499.9003, c21sleeping bearrealty.com.

Old Timey on Lake Leelanau

Certainly the real value here is in the 100 feet of Lake Leelanau sandy beach. But Honest Abe, you gotta’ love the cabin that comes with. It even has a new roof.

$349,000. Judy Levin, Coldwell Banker, 888.568.2258, leelanaurealestate.com.

Movin’ On Up!

Average and median selling prices are on the rise in Northern Michigan between 2008 and 2011. Here are the numbers:

AVERAGE SELLING PRICE, January 2008: $136,027

AVERAGE SELLING PRICE, January 2011: $175,166

MEDIAN SELLING PRICE, January 2009: $90,000

MEDIAN SELLING PRICE, January 2011: $141,500

Source: Traverse Area Association of Realtors

A Home by Any Other Name

So who says your Up North getaway has to have four walls and a roof? Out of the box living begins here.

Boat Slips at Walstrom Marine, Harbor Springs

Doesn’t matter much what type of vessel you pull into these posh slips—it transforms into a houseboat within the handsome Doug fir post-and-beam Harbor Springs Boathouse at Walstrom Marine. Boats (from 25 to 100 feet) and boaters are luxuriously accommodated with amenities that include a sophisticated reception center, Beachside Grill, Captain’s Lounge, waterside deck and reserved parking.

Average price for a club membership (includes slip) $235,000. Ward Walstrom, 231.526.0800, boathousehs.com.

Hearthside Grove Luxury Motorcoach Resort, Petoskey 

You could call it a simply beautiful place to park your motorcoach. But add a gourmet kitchen, Craftsman-inspired bungalow, hot tub and fireplace and you’ve just outfitted yourself your own private resort—smack in the midst of some of the North’s most splendid resort country.

Sites range from $100,000 to $300,000. Craig Rose, 231-347-0905, HearthsideGrove.com.

Indigo Bluffs, Empire

Motor on up to your lot at Indigo Bluffs and know that the Sleeping Bear Dunes are just minutes down the road. Considering the beaucoup amenities (spa!) at this highend RV destination, there may be days when you’ll be more than willing to let a sleeping bear, you know.

Sites from $76,500 to $151,000. Gary Becker, 800.224.4488, indigobluffs.com.

Real Estate

Whether you are looking to buy or sell real estate(or just looking), call Pat O’Brien & Associates. Our team of professionals is working hard, and keeping your best interest at heart.

Completely unique and fabulous offering on Mowry Point. Located on one of the most coveted areas of Lake Charlevoix, this 10 acre parcel spans 600’ of glorious lake frontage. Directly across from Round Lake and the entrance to Lake Michigan – this is a prime location for avid boaters and sunset enthusiasts. Property features include: private paved road, mixed trees, deep water mooring, permanent dockage, westerly facing for spectacular sunsets, Army Corps approved for sand beach, fabulous building site opportunities – groomed and ready for your epic build. Property can be split. $2,995,000.

Pat O’Brien & Associates Real Estate

Your best resource for buying or selling northern Michigan property.

Raspberry Bay, Lake Charlevoix - 10 Acres and 600’ of Frontage

An angler examines the flavors and fantasia of the National Trout Festival, celebrating its 75th birthday this year.

{TEXT BY TIM TEBEAU » PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI }

The ice is gone from nearby Guernsey and Starvation Lakes, the Boardman, Manistee, Au Sable and Rapid Rivers are stabilizing after spring runoff, and everywhere fishermen have waxed their fly rod ferrules, patched their waders and poured over maps in anticipation of Saturday’s trout opener. Mimicking the ephemeral mayflies themselves, devoted anglers stir from seven months of cold dormancy to stalk trout on the local lakes and streams while Kalkaska celebrates its 75th National Trout Festival.

Conceived in 1934 as a fishing holiday in which all Kalkaska businesses would close, the National Trout Festival can be celebrated as both a hokey circus of bygone Americana and a testament to the essential character of life Up North. Armed with a notepad and baited by the acerbic echo of Jim Harrison, whose snarky 1971 Sports Illustrated essay

‘A Plaster Trout in Worm Heaven,’ will forever earn him a free black eye in any of Kalkaska’s taverns, I set out to eat trout with the locals, cheer on the grocery cart races, practice my roll cast and catch some meaning from this goofy and enduring rite of spring.

The National Trout Festival’s opening ceremonies exude an infectious vintage optimism. Trout Queen and former Miss Kalkaska Elizabeth Dunham—rosecheeked and goose-pimpled, her glittering strapless gown defying the damp 45-degree day—bows to Trout King Dave Wolfe and both receive their festive trouty crowns. Festival Chair Diana Needham gives the official commencement and obligatory thanks, members of the Kalkaska high school jazz band blow trumpets and saxophones into the rising April wind, and the gathered crowd storms the chamber of commerce for the Taste of Trout cook-off. Let the feasting begin.

With the rise of catch-and-release trout culture (i.e., release the trout you catch so their populations may flourish), many anglers like myself have contracted a deep, imagined allergy to trout meat. You are unlikely to stumble across two fly-fishermen exchanging recipes or dialogue about the beneficial fatty acids derived from a diet of wild brookies. Trout Unlimited, the Sierra Club and thousands of regional watershed councils wage endless war against deep injection wells, dams, and golf course developers to protect native trout and their environs.

The thought of slipping a blade through the belly of a glimmering spotted brook trout and sitting down to feast on its sweet orange flesh is rumored to cause anaphylaxis of the soul. Walking into the Taste of Trout cook-off, however, I let appetite trump ideology and gladly risk my soul for a good meal.

The flavors at the Taste of Trout are a microcosm of the festival at large: earnest and absurd, delectable and, at times, downright bizarre as local restaurants compete for the double glory of ‘best trout recipe’ and ‘most creative use of trout.’ Traverse magazine staff photographer Todd Zawistowski and I preside as willing judges, weaving through the packed crowd to sample trout quesadillas, trout pizza, and the Charlie Brown’s Trout Town Café’s trout gyros with mint tzatziki (undisputed winner of the most creative use of trout).

The runner-up designation for best trout recipe goes to an inspired amateur chef whose foraged feast is centered on fillets of wild steelhead taken the previous night at the mouth of the Bear River in Petoskey. Seasoned and lightly smoked over chunks of hardwood, the fish rests on wild rice studded with fresh ramps and last year’s morels and chanterelles picked from local hillsides by the cook herself. Kevin Paveglio, executive chef of TraVino, in Williamsburg, claims Best Trout Recipe with smoked trout in an herb crepe with fig, pistachio, mascarpone and balsamic syrup. Back on the street and buzzing with omega threes, we

Left: Decked out with homemade trout, the next generation of anglers marches in the Children’s Parade. Local restaurants compete for flavor and creativity in The Taste of Trout. Pictured here: locally caught steelhead over wild mushroom pilaf. Right Bottom: After a day of trout fishing on local waters, families converge for the tastes and thrills of an old-fashioned carnival.

riving into Kalkaska on a wet April afternoon, I am struck by the omnipresence of trout. Trout iconography hangs in the windows of brick and clapboard banks, bars and bait shops all along U.S. 31, Kalkaska’s main artery. At the center of town, beside the squat chamber of commerce leaps a 20-foot brook trout sculpted from metal and glazed with the glorious blue/red halos and white-tipped fins of Michigan’s legendary native trout.

The Tas Te of Trou T

While trout are sanctified as beautiful and wily angling adversaries, they are also undeniably delicious as evidenced by the creative trout cuisine at The National Trout Festival’s Taste of Trout. Local restaurants and a few amateur chefs are invited to put their best on the celebrated sweet-fleshed fish and gather at the Kalkaska Chamber of Commerce to showcase their creations to culinary judges and hundreds of hungry locals. Trout gyros with mint tzatziki, trout pizza, and smoked trout crepes with fig, pistachio and mascarpone represent some of the avant-garde alternatives to delicious conventional interpretations of poached, roasted or fried trout.

Tas Te of Trou T

Wednesday, a pr il 21s T, 6:30 p.m., Kal Kas Ka Chamber of Commer Ce.

go in search of angling in progress, the real impetus for all this trout madness.

Each year during the National Trout Festival, C&C Well Drilling, on the south end of Kalkaska, converts its ornamental pond into a kiddy fishing Valhalla for the Children’s Fishing Contest. The crew releases hundreds of rainbow trout into the pond and hundreds of children line its perimeter with bait casting rods, bobbers and wriggling leaf worms. Young laughter ricochets off the tall pines as voracious trout boil at every bait, and small hands toss them thrashing into buckets. There is textbook wholesomeness in these visions of easy grins and floppingtrophies. “Watching these families catch trout together really captures the spirit of the festival,” says Ken Waichunas, a Trout Festival coordinator.

While the naïve and suicidal hatchery trout make great prey for the

younger set, more serious trout chasing can be found on every river bend and drop-off as seasoned anglers, local and visiting, troll willow spoons, cast spinners and swing streamer fliesfor a fat, speckled denizen to tip the scales at Jack’s Sport Shop in the Native Trout Fishing Contest, which begins at 12:01 a.m. on opening morning. While this may abrade and even horrify the catchand-release proponents among us, the pervading attitude is not swaggering and mercenary, as the competing anglers, some still dressed in dripping waders, scramble to make the three o’clock weigh-in.

Out at Ranch Rudolph, Master Casting Instructor Dave Leonhard, owner of Traverse City’s Streamside Orvis, presides over a free fly fishing school where aspiring anglers learn the mechanics of casting a flyline and watch in rapt attention as bits of exotic rooster feather

Children’s Fishing Contest

Opening day, the pond at C&C Well Drilling south of Kalkaska is filled with hundreds of fat, hatchery-reared rainbow trout for the Children’s Fishing Contest. Free to all, junior anglers ages 1 to 15 line the pond, lob hook and worm into the hungry vortex of trout and hang on for the first tug that is intended to begin a lifetime of fishing addiction. The festival’s ‘Sponsor a Smile’ program invites local businesses to underwrite a number of twoto-three-pound tagged trophy trout, which earn their lucky captors prizes and bragging rights.

s aturday, a pr il 24, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., C&C Well d ri lling, 377 m -66 se , Kal Kas Ka.

Below: An enduring symbol of the town and the Trout Festival, Kalkaska’s giant brook trout statue serves as a meeting place for festival-goers awaiting the opening ceremonies. Three young anglers proudly display their stringer of trophies caught at the Children’s Fishing Contest.

and kinky synthetic fibersare tied to imitate the trout’s gossamer prey, the mayfly. “This is a great opportunity for people to satisfy their curiosity about flyfishingand experience the sport for the first time,” says Leonhard, stressing that providing a friendly environment for kids will help continue the area’s legacy of great trout fishing

Off the stream and back on Kalkaska’s bustling streets, it’s evident that the Trout Festival, as much as it celebrates our legacy of outdoor recreation, leaves plenty of room for peripheral chintz. I dart across U.S. 31 just in time to see grocery carts race by to cheers and applause. A man in a giant cow costume from the venerated Shetler’s Dairy dances awkwardly and hands out ice cream cones as octogenarian vets in full military dress amble by in the Grand Royale Parade, followed by a clattering band, a trout-inspired Bible floatand several seemingly unaffiliated people

on horseback. Two blocks down is the traveling carnival with glittery, gyrating rides, brightly painted food stalls hocking elephant ears and cheese steaks and the intrinsically tandem aromas of popcorn and the thickly sweet scent of cotton candy.

Over at the Kaliseum, Kalkaska’s indoor sports complex, microphones are cued up for the elimination round of Kalkaska Idol, where warblers young and old compete in four age divisions for idol status and $275 in cash. I can feel a little of Harrison’s cynicism creep in as a young mother with a neck tattoo pushes past with a stroller, her sullen partner trailing behind smoking. What does any of this have to do with trout? Why isn’t the fishingas good as it was 50 or even 15 years ago? Or wait, is it actually better? As I consider the question, I realize I don’t actually know.

Looking at the faces of Northern Michigan populating the National

Trout Festival, almost all of them smiling because they caught a trout or ate a trout or laughed at a trout floator didn’t barf on an inversely spinning carnival ride after gorging on caramel corn, I’ll contend that there is nothing wrong with a little absurdity and nostalgia. By celebrating trout, in various forms, we also celebrate the pristine habitats that support them, the cold, clean waters and vibrant woodlands that drive our tourism industry and bring thousands of people and millions of dollars to Kalkaska and our other communities. We live in or travel to Northern Michigan because of its isolated beauty and pace of life and every April we dig out our optimism and our waders and take to the streets and streams of Kalkaska to celebrate trout.

Tim Tebeau, Traverse Magazine food editor, writes from Petoskey. dining@traverse magazine.com

Native t rout Co Nte st

Veteran anglers stalk local lakes and streams for an elusive lunker to bring them glory in the 75th annual Native Trout contest sponsored by Jack’s Sport Shop. The epicenter of two of Michigan’s best blue-ribbon watersheds, the Boardman and Manistee Rivers, Kalkaska is also home to a number of deep glacial lakes and ponds with wild trout populations. To sweeten the pot, Jack’s plants tagged trout, with one carrying a $1,000 cash bounty, in several local lakes.

Co Ntest begi Ns at 12:01 a.m., s at urday, a pr il 24 a Nd e Nds at 3 p.m., s u Nda y, a pr il 25. Ja Ck’s s po rt s ho p, 212 s ou th Cedar s tr eet, k al kaska, 231.258.8892.

david marvin Vice-PresideNt, s ta fford’s Perry Hotel, Weat Her Va Ne r es taura Nt, Bay VieW iNN, Pier r es taura Nt

Next Ge N , Petoskey

evolve with a fast-changing marketplace, but don’t lose traditions that built the downtown. t hat’s the challenge facing a fresh class of entrepreneurs taking the reins in Petoskey. We check in with 12 business owners to hear their ideas for the future of one of the Midwest’s standout small-town downtowns.

Tex T by Lisa Doub Les tein Pho Tog ra Phs by t o DD Zawistowski Chris Ja Con ette

Matt & Jessilynn n or cross Owners, McLean & eak in BOOks eLLer s

He never thought he’d own the family store, but between undergrad and grad school, Matt Norcross was home working with books at the shop, and he hit it off with Jessilynn, a teacher who had moved to Petoskey to work at her favorite book nook. The two were “blindsided by the fact that we loved the store,” Jessilynn says.

The Norcrosses, both 34, cite modern business principles and a sense of giving as keys to catering to an everevolving clientele. “We want our downtown available to people when people are available for downtown,” Matt says. So McLean & Eakin stays open seven days a week, with evening hours. Since 1996 the store has given over $100,000 to Petoskey schools, and gives readers face time with favorite authors. This summer’s lineup of book signings is already packed with lit celebs.

Proof they’re on the right track: Winning major industry awards for bookselling and customer events and a praisefilled column in the New York Times by author Ann Patchett last May.

“In the same way that there’s been a return to local and organic foods, the appreciation of a downtown is coming back,” Jessilynn says. “There’s a fierce sense of independence that’s coming with it, and everybody is breaking the

nO ah Marsha LL - r as hid

Brand Manager, a Mer ican s POOn f OOds

Given his inquisitive spirit, it’s only natural that this Petoskey native ventured away from his hometown. The son of local notables (Dad is the founder of American Spoon Foods, and Mom was Petoskey mayor), Noah Marshall-Rashid, 31, attended the James Madison College at Michigan State University, then moved on to Chicago and Los Angeles. But he didn’t stay away.

“For me, this is home,” he says. “In a lot of ways it’s Old World, and right now it’s really affordable. The big city and suburban experiences have worn thin. This is a unique alternative.”

Anchor merchant stores go back generations and ground the city’s Gaslight District, and Spoon Foods took root here. “We began making preserves in the basement of Kilwin’s. When we think about doing new things, like gelato, like the cafe and beyond, we think about doing them in Petoskey.”

Noah is inspired by the good turnout at gallery walks and open houses, and anticipates more events like movies in the park for making the district a true pedestrian destination. “I’d love to close off the streets on Friday nights like Traverse City does, keeping shops open later and creating a really fun environment,” he says.

As a member of the planning commission, zoning board and YMCA Board of Directors, Noah says he’s learned that the shops and restaurants downtown share an important element. “We’re lucky to have some really smart people here. It’s an easy detail to forget in a small town. This isn’t just luck— it’s smart people who really work hard to create this sort of atmosphere.”

mold. That means that the people who spend time downtown know they’re going to have an experience that they can’t get anywhere else.

c hris Jaconette

Owner, Threads in Bay h ar BOr a nd PeTOsk ey & r 3 cLOThing exc hange

A good window display can make headlines all by itself, and Chris Jaconette knows it, so she hires the talent to make

it happen. She’s inspired by the creative storefronts in downtown Petoskey, and her own window arrangements have people gathered in front of Threads boutique each time the window art changes. Chris, 40, is known for her store’s knockout displays that draw people in without using a single sellable item—like a ball gown made of red plastic cups. “The presentation of the businesses downtown really shows the creativity and entrepreneurial spirit here,” she says.

Ma TT & jessi Lyn n n Orc r Oss

chris jac OneTTe

Becky Phi Li PP-k ranig

noah

marshall-rashid brand manager, american spoon foods

“We’re lucky to have some really smart people here. It’s an easy detail to forget in a small town. This isn’t just luck—it’s smart people who really work hard to create this sort of atmosphere.”

dave & debra carlson owners, toad hall

dave & de B ra Car lson

owners, toad hall

Formerly the home of Saks Fifth Avenue, the Toad Hall building has stood as an anchor in downtown Petoskey for generations. Now Dave Carlson, 37, a Marine with degrees in political economics, English and 20th Century American poetry, and Debra Carlson, a practicing optometrist, are continuing the tradition of offering specialty gifts to Gaslight District shoppers—but combining that with a forward-thinking market sensibility. “Our most frequent customer is from the Chicago area,” says Dave. “We need to be on the leading edge of trends.”

A member of the Downtown Management Board and the Economic Enhancement Committee, Dave says the city is planning for families, with a recent push to include more outdoor art and green spaces downtown, and with the children’s concert series. “The downtown events have been a big hit. People are getting ice cream and coming into the stores. They’re spending the day here.”

“Next to Traverse City,” Dave says, “downtown Petoskey is the center of economic and entertainment activity in Northern Michigan. It’s small enough to offer the historic feeling of a pedestrian downtown, but large enough to accommodate new ideas and activity.”

He’d like to see a children’s museum, extended business hours, more restaurants and entertainment venues, and the continued development of the waterfront and downtown. Other points on the wish list: a swim area, improved green spaces, development of the railway corridor, better public restrooms and more welcoming entry points.

“We want this to remain a community in which we love to be as a family,” Debra says. “What we do at Toad Hall is reflective of that.

She finds inspiration for innovation in the surge of young people she sees downtown and the fresh infusion of style from longtime resorter families: “I love having two or three generations purchasing items from the same boutique.”

Becky Phili PP-k ra nig

Co-o

wner, Bear Cu B o ut fitters

It’s the Norman Rockwell experience that charms both visitors and residents in downtown Petoskey, says Becky PhilippKranig, 38, and that experience is what also convinces people to put down roots here long before retirement.

“This atmosphere makes you feel part of something,” she says. “It’s cozy and fun every day, no matter the season. This is really evident to us when we host nighttime events and over 300 people come out. The people here like to be part of their community, like to get out and do things. They’re looking for stores that provide more than just shopping; something fun with a small-town flair to it. Businesses downtown really recognize that, and that makes it fun for younger generations to be involved, because that’s what we want to do, too.”

Julie a dams

Co-o

wner & Chef, Julienne t om atoes

Passionate praise for a sandwich—it’s not uncommon to hear at Julienne Tomatoes, and it’s a phenomenon that humbles owners Julie Adams and Tom Sheffler. “Success is something we can never take for granted, says Julie, 41. “On a daily basis we must continue to keep our customers engaged with quality products and superior service.” She says the leadership and community make downtown Petoskey thrive—a reason she and Tom opened the cafe in 2003. “It’s obvious when you come into our town that we take pride in it. The park, the gaslights, the grassy medians, the wayfinder signs—they’re all cool.”

She says she’s looking forward to growth in the Gaslight District, and her wish list includes a butcher, baker and brewery. “Services abound that focus on the development of new businesses. The leadership seems keenly aware of what we have here and takes action to ensure our continued success.”

tom sheffler and Jul ie adams

jennifer shorter owner, grandpa shorter’s gifts

“The people who own shops and homes here, they’ve made a conscious decision to be here. So everyone’s working for success. I want to succeed because I want my daughter to succeed here, just as my family has done for generations.”

Davi D Marvin Vice-President, s ta fford’s Perry Hotel, Weat Her Van e r es taurant, Bay VieW i nn , Pier r es taurant

“My dad’s the president of the company, so what that meant for me growing up was that I was going to go into anything but hospitality,” says David Marvin, 35. At Albion College he studied economics and business management, but when he took an internship with Stafford’s, his destiny became clear. “People asked me questions and I just knew the answers,” he says.

With a sense of history at the heart of his company, David must constantly balance modern conveniences with old-time charm. “There used to be [party]line telephones,” he says. “Now, we try to be a good example of what’s fresh.” Stafford’s was one of the first environmentally savvy lodging groups in the state, and the hotels rely on a “tremendous recycling program; one that we started long before it was a trend,” David says.

That desire to stay out front extends to the downtown district. “If there’s something going on in downtown Petoskey, our job is to be a part of it,” he says. “If there’s nothing going on in downtown Petoskey, it’s our job to create it.” It’s a great slogan, but it’s also key to making bank for the hospitality company. “We don’t make widgets here, we make memories. As long as we make memories, people are going to come back.”

With three kids, David says he recognizes that catering to families is a big business boon. “Local people know, for example, that Santa is always at the Perry Hotel. So a little boy sees Santa for his very first time here, and decades later he knows he can bring his kids and his grandkids to

Jennifer sH or ter

see Santa here, too. It’s a really neat thing to make that connection.”

Julie Sy Mon S oWner, B. JeWel ed

With a freshly minted law degree and a new husband from her hometown on her arm, Julie Symons chose family togetherness over far-off fortunes. At 31, she has followed in her father’s retail footsteps, tending fine clothing and accessories in her hip downtown boutique. Her memories are becoming the memories of her two small boys, on the slopes, the beaches and in the woods. And she expects her boys to enjoy growing up on her home turf: “I hear more and more each year about how desirable our area is for young travelers,” she says. “I strongly believe that the Gaslight District has a lot to do with that.” Its strength, she

says, comes from merchants who recognize the power of a resort town. “Its quaintness is its best attribute.”

Chan Dler Sy Mon S

oPerator, c a Va Waterfront d in ing, cHan dler’s r es taurant, Pierson’s g rille & sPir its, s ym ons g en eral s to re

His parents found success in Petoskey, and for Chandler Symons, 40, the future was simple: “How could I be anywhere else? I love my parents and I love the company they started, and I believe in it. Why wouldn’t I take that opportunity?”

Recent beautification projects and extended business hours make downtown Petoskey progressive, he says. What’s lacking is “our front yard.” He’s referring to the entrance to downtown Petoskey, an excavated city block that went into foreclosure in 2010. Purchased in December by an undisclosed buyer, the block’s fate is still unknown.

“We absolutely have to fill that obnoxious hole,” Chandler says.

Also on Chandler’s wish list for downtown: “Public transportation, for the environmental impact it could offer and the ease on the parking burden, and to help in the reduction of drunk driving. Downtown is very happening ... and we all know what happens when the sun goes down.”

With a business degree from the University of Michigan, Jennifer Shorter, 36, is moving her family’s store into its 65th year by holding tight to traditional philosophies while modernizing behind the scenes. She’s a member of the Downtown Management Board, the parking committee, the finance committee and is chair of the marketing committee. “When you’re involved you understand more of what’s happening around you as a whole, and you understand how your part is so important. The people who own shops and homes here, they’ve made a conscious decision to be here. So everyone’s working for success. I want to succeed because I want my daughter to succeed here, just as my family has done for generations.”

He digs the cyclical nature of the tradition-packed place. “Petoskey has a really great history. As kids, people came here, and now they come back and bring their own kids. That’s just cool.” He notes that the presence of young families isn’t necessarily a dramatic departure. “Petoskey isn’t changing—the faces are. Petoskey has always had a younger crowd. But now I see so many young people making opportunities for themselves here.” Just as Chandler realized for himself, young entrepreneurs are recognizing that they can have it all, where they want it. “It’s easy to say I could live and work anywhere. But it’s not easy to say I could do that and be happy.”

Lisa Doublestein is travel editor for Traverse She writes from Petoskey. travel@traverse magazine.com

oWner, g ra nd Pa sHor ter’s g if ts

da Vid mar Vin

TEXT AND INTERVIEW BY AARON BROOKS PORTRAITS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

t he FUt Ure

Ain’t Wh At i t Used t o Be

it was 1969, Mills College in California, and for Stephanie Mills, everything was about to change. She stepped up on stage, cleared her throat, and delivered a college commencement speech that catapulted her into the national spotlight. Paul Ehrlich’s bestseller, The Population Bomb, had come out the year before, and young Stephanie Mills had been galvanized by its message that we humans were up against it, that we were staring into a future of calamitous strife, war, and famine, victims of our own reproductive success, and our overuse of Earth’s finite resources.

There she was, a nice, studious young woman from a nice, middle-class family, telling her generation that the most responsible, the most moral thing to do with their lives would be to have no children. It was such a controversial, even revolutionary idea, that it gave rise to a whirlwind period of speeches and media interviews. Everyone, it seemed, wanted an explanation, and the pace—and the pressure—took a personal toll. After the furor died down, Mills caught her breath and settled into the world of environmental activism in California’s Bay Area. For more than a decade, she worked with some of the great luminaries of the environmental movement, like Stewart Brand, founder of Whole Earth Catalog and the Sierra Club’s David Brower. Activism was satisfying, and they had an unmistakable impact.

But by the mid-80’s, the situation had changed. The political winds had shifted, the environmental movement had become more Washington-centric, and work was getting hard to come by. Mills had become increasingly interested in an emerging concept called bioregionalism. She had begun to dream of living a simpler, quieter, more localized life, a life amid the splendors of nature.

As another Earth Day nears, nationally renowned environmentalist, author and Northern Michigander Stephanie Mills shares thoughts on where we’re headed here on spaceship Earth and why local economies should fuel the journey.

Then she went to the first North American Bioregional Congress, and she met a man there from Northern Michigan. She came to his home for a visit. It was July, summer in the Northwoods was in its full glory, and she fell in love—with the man, and the place. Shortly thereafter, Mills moved to Northern Michigan, she and her man got married, and they built a small home with their own hands in the woods outside Traverse City.

Now, more than 25 years and seven books later, Mills still lives in those woods (though the marriage didn’t last, she stayed in the house, and she and her ex remain friends). And while her life has changed a great deal since those heady days in California, she is still worried about our future. She’s worried that human beings have already overpopulated the planet, exceeded Earth’s carrying capacity.

To her way of thinking, things are going to go one of two ways. We can either pretend that everything is fine, maintain the status quo, and march blindly toward the end of civilization as we know it, or we can choose to change our ways now—to consume less, much less, reproduce less, live lives of voluntary simplicity—and perhaps save civil society for the coming generations. Either way, things are not going to be easy. But if we take the second path, and choose to shape our own future, at least we won’t be blindsided by the civil strife and economic depression (and maybe worse!) that will result from inaction.

But she’s not just worried about the future of human civilization. The rest of the biosphere is equally important, and imperiled, and she spends her days in her tiny one-room writing studio in the woods, trying to figure out how to get people to give a damn.

I sat down with Mills at Horizon Books in Traverse City on two separate occasions not long after she was back in the national media, featured in the PBS documentary, Earth Days, about pioneers of the modern environmental movement.

If our situation is so dire, why aren’t more people paying attention?

The thing that we have difficulty understanding, here in the early 21st century, is that our society has emerged in a period that’s just totally unprecedented in human history. So our idea of normal is a sample of a totally distorted situation, and clearly unsustainable. A problem we have as human beings is that we didn’t evolve to pay attention to trends. There’s not a whole lot of survival value in it … There has not been, hitherto. But now there is.

All this end-of-the-world talk can get pretty bleak. But hope dies last, right? How can we stay hopeful, even optimistic, and at the same time recognize that we need to make fundamental changes to our way of life?

Involving people in a constructive process to plan a way from impending disaster can be very empowering and uplifting. So getting folks directly involved with activities that are taking us in the direction of survival, regardless of what their ideologies are, is a great … you know, that’s worth doing. I also think that a lot of folks are more intelligent, and have more horse sense than they’re given credit for, and I think an awful lot of the policies that we see flout the common wisdom. So that’s where hope lies: hope lies in the resilience and beauty of nature and in the inborn wit and good will of human beings.

When you frame this issue in terms of survival, are you saying that humans could actually go extinct due to our own overpopulation, overuse of resources, and so on? Or are we talking about the demise, or death, of civilization?

Human beings are an incredibly resilient species. I’m not enough of a scientist to really have an authoritative answer to that, but it seems unlikely that we would go extinct. It seems pretty likely that our numbers will be diminished one way or another, either voluntarily or by the normal biological constraints on population eruptions. Civilizations are wont to collapse; it’s what civilizations do more often than they endure,

because they have this unfortunate habit of overextending themselves. But, you know, there are ways that a devolution could lead to better lives, more interesting lives, than the technological totalitarianism that we’re confronted with now. The extinctions that worry me more is the rest of the biosphere. There comes a point at which the fabric of the planetary ecosystem is so shredded that the whole thing folds, and we’re all dining on jellyfish.

Do you think technology has a role to play in solving ecological problems?

That’s a complex subject. My offhand remark is that faith in technology is the world’s great religion right now. I think it’s a misplaced optimism. There are important things to be done in the realm of technology, but I think they tend to be stepped back from the macro scale towards what we, in the 70’s, talked about as appropriate and intermediate technologies. The thing to bear in mind about these technological proposals is that materials and energy are involved in the production of technology. So while I do think that more canny design, more frugal design, of absolutely necessary technologies, can be very important fields of endeavor, it doesn’t appear to me that there are any technologies that are going to get us off the hook of having to reproduce less and consume less.

Do you ever wonder if it might in fact be possible that technology could trump the need for a healthy ecological system? In other words, what if we don’t need a healthy ecological system? We may think it’s an uglier world, or a less interesting world, but what if we don’t actually need it to survive. You ever get disturbed by that possibility?

I just think that’s, I don’t think it’s a possibility. It might be a possibility for a tiny elite. But we’re heading for 9 billion people on the planet, and the materials and energy intensity of those kinds of techno-fixes would preclude them being widely available. So I don’t spend a lot of time thinking about those things. However,

what you say about the quality of such a world is an important point. We’ve spent a lot more time evolving in wilderness than we’ve been doing anything else on the planet, and I don’t think it’s going to be possible to overcome—and why would we want to?—the constraints imposed by the natural world.

Your latest book is a biography of a man named Bob Swann. What made this an interesting project for you?

I wanted to get inside Bob’s economics—that’s what his big contributions were in—what I’m now terming sort of a folk economics, in the sense that he understood economics very well, but from an untutored point of view. He was really interested in empowering individuals in communities to just build useful local economies, you know, not to overturn the system at the macro level, but to really do some evolutionary work right in the locales where energized people were confronting specific problems. Access to land, finding ways to structure land ownership so that land wouldn’t be vulnerable

to speculation, mechanisms like micro credits, small loans, local currencies—those kinds of things were among the challenges that Bob’s wonderfully inventive intelligence rose to.

In this day and age, community economics sounds like a bit of a throwback. What’s the point?

The thing about local economic mechanisms is that they’re operating on such a scale that local values can influence them. Who knows what’s going to become of the U.S. economy and the dollar, and all of that—it’s just too large a system to manage intelligently and for the common good, whereas at the local level the feedback loops are shorter. And it doesn’t mean that local economies can be completely self-contained or isolated. That’s just not going to happen, because of the degree of globalization and the fact that, human beings, even before the mercantile era, have always traded. We like to trade. So there need to be ways that these systems can interact. But it’s in our own best interest to build local resilience and to learn to meet basic needs locally to the greatest extent possible.

Bob Swann was instrumental in creating a successful local currency out East, and you are involved in our own local currency, right here in the Grand Traverse region. A lot of people have probably never heard of Bay Bucks. Why is this an important aspect of relocalization going forward?

A local currency can be an element in a more functional, more self-reinforcing local economy. It’s an element, as would be local investment mechanisms, and the reason for that is to avoid being totally subject to the whims of the national and international economies, which are big enough to fail catastrophically. Local resilience in all these aspects of life is increasingly crucial, so we need locally owned and interested banks that are investing in local enterprises, and that apply ethical and ecological criteria to their lending. If we got a deflationary depression, and suddenly cash was extremely scarce, there would still be people with skills, people producing goods, and what they would lack is a medium of exchange, and a local currency provides that. And that’s why there were hundreds of local currencies in the U.S. during the Depression, because it was a deflationary depression. So that’s one practical reason for local currencies. Another reason is that they can be very empowering, and educational—it gets people thinking about the notional quality of money, and that’s quite illuminating.

You are often called a “bioregionalist.” What is bioregionalism?

Bioregionalism is a spirit, or a philosophy, or a tendency within ecological activism, and, I’d say that one of its most important aspects is looking at the natural history of places, as the basis for character, and local identity, and local culture. And this is just what it’s been for human beings right up until the industrial revolution, you know, when we began uncoupling ourselves from solar economies and distinct cultures of place. Part of what appealed to me about bioregionalism was that it pointed away from nation-state government, and towards a devolution of government and economy, and production.

A lot of ecological activists are talking these days about relocalization and reinhabitation. Will you explain these concepts to us?

And, um, reinhabitation is a part of that, because human occupancy has really wrought havoc with the biodiversity of the planet, and you don’t have to take my word for that—ask the United Nations—so reinhabiting means, really, addressing the natural habitat, and for human beings to understand that we don’t just need to meet our basic needs, but we need to restore and revive the biodiversity of our home places, because we need the whole system if we’re going to thrive, and, and plus it’s more interesting and beautiful if nature around us does not consist of two tree species and three birds . . . and knapweed. And, so I think that reinhabitation’s got a little bit more of a concern with botany and wild nature than relocalization, strictly.

Relocalization to me—and this could just be idiosyncratic— sounds a little bit more socioeconomic, and that’s good. And I do think it’s the direction we need to be going in, because globalization has been underwritten by cheap fossil fuels, and we’re at peak production of those. And so, one way or another, we’re going to be relocalizing a lot of our endeavors. And the upside of it can be that we will be better citizens and neighbors, and have a lot more direct engagement in our ways and means. We won’t be using proxies for everything. And that’ll be good.

Local food has been getting quite a bit of attention in recent years. Do you see that as a cause for celebration?

Learn More About Stephanie Mills

PBS Documentary Film pbs.org/wgbh/americanexperience/films/earthdays

Stephanie Mills’s website smillswriter.com

Bay Bucks baybucks.org

Stephanie Mills, Post Carbon Institute postcarbon.org/person/36221-stephanie-mills

Stephanie Mills Books: Whatever Happened to Ecology? In Praise of Nature In Service of the Wild Turning Away from Technology Tough Little Beauties On Gandhi’s Path Epicurean Simplicity

I think that is one of the bright spots. And, and not just here, but all across the land actually. Because it’s so fundamental, you know, it’s so fundamental. It gets you to the root of all kinds of problems, and it requires you to look at some things that need systemic change. I love that the farmers market is so popular that we’re getting multiple farmers markets, and that there’s a culture of local food developing around here. And we need way more of it, way more of it.

The question of localism vs. globalism is a sticky one. There’s the old slogan “Think globally, act locally.” How do we strike that balance? How do you view activism outside of one’s watershed or bioregion? Should I be working on trying to preserve Alaska, or should I just be working on the place where I live?

Maybe it doesn’t have to be either/or. Maybe you figure out what proportion of your time and treasure you want to devote to those things. And some of it’s intuitive—it’s kind of what presents itself. I’ve been involved with our local currency for a while, and before that I was involved with the natural foods co-op, and partly I chose them, partly they chose me. So I think it’s to people to discover that balance out of their own gifts and proclivities. Just dive in and follow your heart. However, I think that being well informed about ecological concerns is sort of primary. It does seem to be the way that the planet has been setting its priorities for 4 billion years.

Aaron Brooks writes from Elk Rapids. aaronsbrooks@gmail.com

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VERANDA COLLECTION

PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Wyatt Fellows

EDITOR/ VICE PRESIDENT EDITORIAL Jeff Smith

MANAGING EDITOR Elizabeth Edwards

ART DIRECTOR Bob Wilcox

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Theresa Burau-Baehr

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Claire Stortz

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Todd Zawistowski

WEB DIRECTOR Michael Thompson

VIDEOGRAPHER Kris Riley

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Jonathan Campbell

Jim Driver

Ann Gatrell

Lisa Gillespie

Jeff Hale

Jill Hayes

Amy Artz Joslin

Cyndi Ludka

Candace Morse

MARKETING DIRECTOR Rachel North

CIRCULATION FULFILLMENT MGR. Jodi G. Simpson

OFFICE MANAGER/EVENTS EDITOR Monterey Wheeler

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Nano-sized Living

The other night my mom considered throwing away the Nano she bought my son for Christmas. It wasn’t because she was angry at him (nope, that grandson-grandmother bond is airtight) it was because she didn’t know what the Nano was. She’d given me the money and the okay to order him one, and I’m not sure she’d even glanced at it on Christmas morning when he opened it and said, ““ ank you Mimi!”

So two months later, when she found it on the couch she thought it might be a gum package, or maybe one of those irritating advertising magnets that never stays on the refrigerator. Gratefully, she asked before she tossed. When all was explained, she stood a moment looking at it with the musical scenes from her long and rich life playing through her mind—Victrolas, turntables, stereos, the huge classical record collection she and my dad owned—and said: “Wow.”

Small is hip, small is eƒ cient and genius. Very often, small is smarter and better than big. I used to have to organize all those records as a child. And let’s talk all those dusty books in the library in my parents’ house; suƒ ce it to say, my mom is loving her Kindle.

And so I present our small home issue: ingenious dwellings as diminutive as 550 square feet. Spaces so cleverly designed that the folks who live or vacation in them have everything they need. Homes with footprints that barely disturb the landscape, leaving more room for Northern Michigan to breathe.

Whether or not you’re ready to Nano-size your life, read on. I think you’ll enjoy a Wow moment or two.

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage.

BY elizabeth edwards

photos BY t odd zawistowski

Cathleen

Elkington Styles.

We asked Cathleen Elkington, interior designer for Edward’s Home Furnishings in Suttons Bay, to do what she often does for clients: Begin a room design with a piece from Edward’s and then accessorize from the boutiques and shops around her store. So Cathleen went shopping—looks to us like she found spring.

1. Cathleen calls the Stressless Dream recliner “The last chair you’ll ever buy.” Constructed to heirloom standards, the chair is custom-fit to your body shape, both in terms of size and padding (Edward’s employees take classes on how to fit chairs to customers). Its timeless style is worth designing a room around. Shown here in spring green leather. Recliners start at $1,1295. Edward’s Hom E F urnis H in gs, s ut tons Bay. 231.271.6600, E dw ards F ur nis H in gs.com.

2. A designer arrangement of purple larkspur, yellow tulips, and craspedia and leucadendron sets a lovely spring palette. $69.95. Forg Et-mE-n ot Florist, s ut tons Bay, 231.271.1977, suttons Bay Flo rist.com.

3. Carol Bawden weaves these custom artisan rugs on a loom that has been in her family for 140 years. Washable and colorfast, the panels come as long as 25 feet and as wide as 42 inches—but panels can be sewn together for wider rugs. Shown here: 24- B y-48 inc HE s. $96. Paint E d Bird g al l E ry , s ut tons Bay. 231.271.3050, P ai nt E d- B ir d.com.

4. Jesse Hickman’s folk art decoys hang out in some fine places: the American Folk Art Museum in New York City, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago, the Smart Museum of Art at the University of Chicago, to name just a few. And your living room perhaps? Hickman calls the funky fish shown here “It’s a Bumpy Ride.” $625. m ic H ig an a rt ists g al l E ry , s ut tons Bay. 231.271.4922, mic H ig an artistsgall E ry .com.

5. Mixed-media artist Philip Lichtenhan describes the home decor sculptures he creates— high-fired clay eggs in found-wire nests—as meaphors for life. Lovely. $600. m ic H ig an a rt ists g al l E ry , s ut tons Bay. 231.271.4922, mic H ig an artistsgall E ry .com.

6. Traverse City mosaic artists Jane Whiting and Steven Bath of Piece By Piece take broken dishes, china, tiles and glass and put them together again—an ancient art that transforms a design accent into a focal piece. Mirror shown here, $379. Paint E d Bird g al l E ry , s ut tons Bay. 231.271.3050, P ai nt E d- B ir d.com.

A Cottage Named Betty Lou

A husband and wife DIY team charms the uglies from their postwar Spider Lake getaway.

TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOGRAPHS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

She was born just after World War II but didn’t come of age until last year. Call her Plain Jane until then. A boxy 550 square feet of drab—with the exception of a redeeming view of tree-ringed Spider Lake and its verdant Public Island. Homely, though, is in the past since Eric and Samantha Olsen took ownership of the bland little structure tucked into Traverse City’s cottage country. Most folks would have taken the property for its sandy beach and razed the structure. But as Samantha says: “We’re different that way.

Different, certainly, if you figure that most couples don’t have the skills of an HGTV crew between them. Consider their heritage: Eric’s father was a shop teacher, Samantha’s an engineer; his mother was an interior decorator, hers an interior designer. Together they own Blue Sky Building and Design— although Samantha is also a teacher. Among the couple’s favorite pastimes is combing flea markets, resale shops and home improvement stores for cool deals, then turning them into objet d’home.

When the Spider Lake cottage became theirs, the Olsens ripped into it with their signature gusto

and skills: peeling fiber board and ancient insulation flew, the tiled drop-ceiling came down to reveal a peaked roof, the nasty brown indoor/outdoor carpet gave way to the original pine floor—a thorough sanding obliterated old glue marks and rendered the pine boards to their original honeyhue. The cottage needed shoring from underneath, so Eric and crew crawled under while Samantha stood in the living room and called out A little higher on the right …

Then the fun began. Samantha chose fresh but vintage-feeling pale blue walls and red window trim

to transform what had been a blah tan exterior. Eric rocked the original roof by covering it with industrial-hip corrugated tin. A Craftsman-style door leftover from a Blue Sky job grounded the home in its bungalow-era nativity. And what to do with the shedlike add-on that housed the bathroom? Peak the flat roof, cover the sides in cedar shingles and turn a sorry afterthought into a sweet detail. Further embellishments: a cupola that the couple picked up at a yard sale, the Craftsman-esque portico that welcomes at the front door and windows trimmed out in little wooden awnings that Eric built in a spurt of creativity.

The interior dazzles with whitewashed pine walls bathed in natural light courtesy of expansive windows that look out on Spider Lake and a generous skylight that Eric picked up at Odom Re-use in Traverse City for $200. The kitchen includes a 1960’s perfect-condition apartment-sized stove, fresh from a Traverse senior center apartment

Opening page: The tiny great room feels expansive with its white walls and flood of natural light. Samantha found the table and chairs at a yard sale for $50 and painted them. The ladder leads to the loft. Below: The master bedroom is outfitted with family antiques—but the pennant collection was buried in the wall. a nother view of the great room—the closed door opens to the bathroom. Opposite: The Olsens replaced the old thick-slatted deck railing with goat fencing from Tractor Supply Company in Traverse City for a better view of the lake.

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Betty Lou welcomes from her whimsical new portico and classy Craftsman-style door.

and purchased at B&T Appliances in Traverse City. A 1950’s refrigerator that a friend refurbished chills from its place against the wall— equipped with a still-purring Frigidaire engine and T-Bird era graphics that all but say, Whip me up a casserole baby. The kitchen cabinets are Odom’s salvages, refaced with beadboard and trimmed in finger polish-red pulls from Ikea. Meet Betty Lou, Eric’s nickname for the cottage, in all her postwar flirty, homespun glam.

Diminutive as she is, Betty Lou sleeps 10. Count two (or more if you’re talking the Olsens’ teenaged daughters, Sierra and Cecily, and their friends) in the loft that Eric fit under the gables. Bunk beds Eric built into a tiny bedroom can fit two more (usually son Brenn and friend). Add Samantha and Eric in the master bedroom—the room where Samantha has framed and hung the complete set of midcentury baseball pennants she found buried

in the wall. And, if need be, another duo can bed down on the plush red sleeper sofa in the living room.

Last summer was the first the Olsens spent with Betty Lou. Though the family lives on Old Mission Peninsula, only a half-hour drive from Spider Lake, they all but moved into the cottage for the summer. There they hung out on the (almost) as big-as-the-house deck, and boated Spider Lake in a new pontoon and an aluminum boat as old as Betty Lou. All in all, a deservedly sunny payoff for a DIY job well done. As Samantha sums up their labor of love: “Stripping it, cleaning it and making it fun."

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com. FIND RESOURCES FOR THIS HOME ON PAGE 19.

Further embellishments: a cupola that the couple picked up at a yard sale, the Craftsmanesque portico that welcomes at the front door and windows trimmed out in little wooden awnings that Eric built in a spurt of creativity.

The beach shed embellished with Betty Lou–era water skis. Samantha found a small (enough for her tiny bathroom) vanity at Reclectia resale shop in Traverse City, then fashioned the sink out of a bucket. The antique shutter (reflected in the mirror) serves as a door to the utility closet

Northern Home & Cottage resources

A Cottage Named Betty Lou

Creative

The Next Generation Kohler Premier Showroom

49629

Kitchen and Bath Design

CONTRACTOR

Blue Sky Builders, Old Mission, 231.632.0759, blueskybd.com

ELECTRIC

Buhr Electric, Suttons Bay, 231.632.2847

PLUMBING

Gourley Plumbing, Traverse City INTERIOR

Doors, hardware. Kitchen

cabinets, loft ladder, skylight Odom Re-Use, Grawn, 231.276.6330, odomreuse.com

BATHROOM VANITY Reclectia, Traverse City, 231.929.0022

DECK RAILING Goat fencing, Tractor Supply Co., 231.943.4062, tractor supply.com

The Next Generation Kohler Premier Showroom

Wittock Kitchen and Bath

Model of Efficiency

A Northern Michigan builder and entrepreneur redeÿ nes the word modular with his Modernist, very green, small home concept. And did we mention he can put one up for you between sunrise and sunset?

TEXT BY DIANE KOLAK PHOTOGRAPHS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

Builder Drew Craven calls the small homes he builds "little gems." And certainly his carefully crafted concept homes shine with distinctive qualities. The model home that he built (and rents out) on the outskirts of Traverse City looks as though it popped off the pages of the hip home magazine Dwell, what with its organic Modernist design. The streamlined structure utilizes simple materials like plywood and corrugated metal, and has a slanted roof and plenty of windows to connect the home to its landscape. Look closer and you’ll discover surprising details, like an outdoor shower and sliding barn doors that seal the home's windows and glass entry for privacy and weather protection—while giving a nod to the surrounding rural Northern Michigan buildings.

All of this style, in yes, a modular (read factorybuilt) home. But Craven’s homes are hardly your garden-variety factory-built versions. Imagine manufactured homes, the next generation. Craven’s Traverse City–based company, Cottage in a Day, is part of an international trend toward modular architecture, a movement propelled by the need for sustainable, affordable and energy efficient building and design.

Craven’s cutting-edge process begins with modules, built in his small factory, made from

über energy-efficient and strong Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs). Before being transported to the building site, the modules are shrinkwrapped to protect them from moisture. Once they’re onsite, Craven assembles the modules on a pre-poured concrete column foundation: a feat that can be accomplished within a day. Moreover, the land is barely disturbed during this process, making the houses ideal for difficult or environmentally sensitive building sites. Utilities and interior finishing are the final step.

“Other companies ship kits, but nobody else is doing this,” Craven explains.

Speed translates into construction cost savings. And since the construction meets or exceeds Energy Star and LEED residential criteria, energy bills in the homes are blessedly low.

While all of that sounds conceptually smart, what is it like living in the homes? Adam and Alicia Spinniken, who recently rented the 725-square-foot Traverse City model, use words like open, airy, efficient, and aesthetically pleasing to describe the cottage. Indeed, Craven cleverly coaxed every available inch of living and storage space out of his blueprint. The open kitchen/living area flows outside to the adjacent deck to expand living space in warm weather. Storage and utilities tuck under easy-access panels in the floor or in slide-out drawers accessible from both inside and outside the house. A sleeping loft lies under the peak of the slanted roof, creating a quasi-second bedroom. And

OPENING PAGES AND BELOW: The architecture of a Cottage in a Day is inspired by the simple structure of a lifeguard shack. Executed with classic materials, it evokes the look of Northern Michigan cottages and barns—with a decidedly modern twist. Underneath, modules are sealed with metal to keep cottage critters out.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: An outdoor shower is a handy summer accessory when everybody needs a quick rinse after the beach. The three-quarter bathroom has a smart angled floor plan to comfortably fit a stackable washer and dryer. The bilevel kitchen island follows the same angle, creating a wid galley layout. Custom plywood cabinetry is sleek and solid.

that outdoor shower comes in handy during summer houseguest season when everybody needs a quick rinse after the beach.

Natural materials including bamboo flooring and unfinished wood beams combine with loads of natural light to create a relaxed, welcoming living space.

While the 725-square-foot model is Craven’s prototype, clients can expand and customize the space using modules based on a 14-by-14-foot standardized unit. In his office, Craven shows prospective clients various configurations using scale models—a basic living room/bathroom module starts at $54,500. But no matter how large they decide to make a new cottage, owners can be sure that Craven made efficient use of resources—time, money and materials. They’ll be reminded of that each time they pull out their house key dangling from a Cottage-in-a-Day–shaped keychain—a gift from Craven that he punched out of metal leftover from construction waste.

Diane Kolak writes from Lake Ann, where she operates Dwelement Home Design, dwelement.com.

FIND RESOURCES FOR THIS HOME ON PAGE 27.

ABOVE: The kitchen, sleeping loft and open living area are bathed in light from plentiful Kolbe & Kolbe casement windows. A pocket door on the bathroom saves space. BELOW: The bedroom module is spacious, with hints of the cottage's exterior on the inside. The under-floor storage and utility space is accessible from above in the living area, or from the side by doors with distinctive hinges.

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Constru Ction Craven Construction, Inc., Traverse City, 231.946.7741, cottageinaday.com

Plumbing Brezina Plumbing, Inc., Traverse City, 231.409.9540

meChaniCal Senior's Heating and Cooling, Traverse City, 231.941.8830

Drywall Haselton Drywall, Inc., Traverse City, 231.947.9282

eleCtriCal Boardman Valley Electric, Traverse City, 231.342.6032, bvelec.com

s ite work Gray's Excavating, Inc., Lake Ann, 231.275.5313, graysexcavating.com

s tru Ctural ins ulateD Panels Porter SIPs, Holland, 616.738.0995, portersips.com

Plumbing an D l ight fixtures Ferguson's, Traverse City, 231.946.1490, ferguson.com

Constru Ction materials Brown Lumber, Traverse City, 231.947.1400, brownlumber.net

aPPlian Ces Max's Service, Traverse City, 231.947.6830, maxsservice.com

w in Dows Kolbe & Kolbe from Old Mission Windows, Traverse City, 231.947.2120, oldmissionwindows.com

w ell Drilling Kropp Well Drilling, Traverse City, 231.947.1694

Up North Infinity

AFTER THE FRENETIC SEASON, A PROFESSIONAL HOCKEY PLAYER AND HIS FAMILY TAKE TO THE WATER AND RECONNECT.

TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

Total Commitment to Quality

other hours by appointment 231-941-1241

Hunter Douglas Gallery Marks “10 Years of Excellence” Milestone

hunter douglas, the leading manufacturer and marketer of custom window coverings in north america, is proud to announce the 10 year anniversary of its national network of Gallery stores. trend Window & design is in this elite group of storefront dealers who are committed to providing consumers with a thoroughly satisfying shopping experience.

“We are proud”, said trend Window & design, “to offer customers optimum solutions for their window covering needs in addition to an exceptional retail experience, along with a spectacular in-store display ambiance that shows products in a most favorable light”.

the hunter douglas Gallery captures the energy and elegance of the entire hunter douglas line in a colorful, user-friendly format. customers are able to view and operate the full range of products available and easily select the treatments that best complement their homes, all while seated comfortably in a well-lit environment.

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817 Bay st. traverse city, mi

From s eptember through May, the r olstons’ life feels a world away from their Lake Michigan summer home in Traverse City. That’s when d ad, Brian, is the star left wing for the n ew Jersey d evils hockey team. a nd it’s when Mom, Jennifer, is left with most of the parenting of the couple's three sons, r yder, 9, Brody, 7, and s tone, 6, while Brian focuses on the grueling game schedule. a t season’s end, however, the family loads up the car and drives to n orthern Michigan. “We really need the time together—the downtime, the time to regroup,” Jennifer says.

Brian was raised in Michigan and attended Lake s uperior s tate

Opening spread

The Rolstons’ infinity pool was designed to visually marry their newly renovated Craftsman-style home to the Lake Michigan shoreline—while maximizing the family’s outdoor experience (note: the outdoor pizza oven in the far right corner). The terrace is Cowboy Coffee quartzite and the raised pool edge is black porcelain tile. This page: Like the pool, the perimeter-edge overflow spa is lined with porcelain tile and lit with an LED light system that offers a palette of light choices. A shallow-water sun shelf wraps around three sides of the spa—perfect for adults to lounge in low beach chairs or, in the Rolstons’ case, for small boys and dogs to splash off excess energy.

College in s ault s te. Marie, so vacationing in n orthern Michigan was a natural, and by 1996 he’d purchased property on Lake Michigan’s e ast Bay in Traverse City, where he built a summer home. The first time he brought Jennifer to visit—fresh from n ew York City where she was living and working—she fell in love with the area. a wedding and three kids later, it was time to renovate the house that Brian had built (“i t was a bachelor pad—you know, with no closets,” Jennifer says with a laugh).

a s a part of the spectacular Craftsmanesque renovation (courtesy of petoskey’s g lennwood Custom Builders and designer Jill r owley),

the couple decided to build a pool: “We always had the idea of a pool in the back of our minds,” Jennifer explains. “I grew up with pools. We wanted the kids to swim, but when we got up here in May the lake was cold and it seemed like it was just warming up when we left in August.”

It turned out to be no ordinary pool. ‘ e pool that the Rolstons asked Bob Drost, of Drost Landscaping in Petoskey, to build for them is a 52-by-22-foot four-sided inÿ nity (sometimes called negative edge) pool that presents a Zen-like waterscape, a liquid transition from the home’s terrace to the Lake Michigan shoreline. “‘ ere is just a beautiful marriage between the house, the outdoor patio, the pool and the shoreline,” says Drost—who also cites how exacting the pool’s engineering had to be to ensure that the water poured evenly over all four sides. “If we were o” so much as a ½ an inch we’d have a bare spot on the sides where the water didn’t ™ ow over,” he explains.

Su ce it to say, that everything from the hydraulics (700 gallons of water a minute cycle over the perimeter-edge) to the smart system that allows the Rolstons to begin heating the in-pool spa from their car, even before they reach Traverse City, is perfect. When the Devils’ season ended in June, the Rolstons packed up the family car and drove to Traverse City from New Jersey to see the completed renovation for the ÿ rst time. “It was just breathtaking—we couldn’t believe it,” Jennifer says. “‘ at feeling carried through the whole summer.”

North Infinity

LANDSCAPE CONTRACTOR

Drost Landscape of Northern Michigan, Petoskey, 231.348.2624, drostland scape.com

HOME RENOVATION CONTRACTOR

Glennwood Custom Builders, Petoskey, 231.439.9103,

glennwoodcustombuilders.com

HOME DESIGNER Jill Rowley, Boyne City, 231.675.0072

SHOTCRETE

Acme Pool Construction, Inc. Grand Rapids, 616.677.7665

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagaazine.com.

550 Stylish Square Feet

A cottage deep in the Benzie County woods proves that small is smart.

TEXT BY DIANE KOLAK PHOTOGRAPHS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

Jim g ibson has spent a lot of time hanging out around—and far above—Lake Michigan. He’s a hang glider pilot and for decades has swirled amid the air currents high off the bluffs of Benzie County. Originally from Muskegon, g ibson decided to build a simple weekend cabin Up n orth. When he climbed a tree on a forested 5-acre lot in g ilmore Township and saw Betsie Bay peeking through the bare branches, he knew he had found the spot for his humble garage-with-loft design.

What began in g ibson’s mind as a casual crash pad is now a full-time home he shares with Marzena Fryc and their sweet dog, Kleeya. The barnlike structure was inspired by the property’s former function as an orchard,

Opening page

Jim Gibson's tiny house is a cross between a barn and a lighthouse, fitting for its old-orchard site about a mile from Lake Michigan. BELOW: A paneled nook near the entry contains a hobby space, open to the living area yet out of the way.

remnants of which remain in view from the second-floor living space. The 550 stylish square feet embrace an island kitchen, flexible living/sleeping area, two work spaces, enclosed bathroom and, in the attic, a sleeping space with skylights. a “silo” outside the main structure encloses a spiral staircase and an airy, light-drenched office at the top. Some say the house has as much nautical inspiration as agricultural, because the tower looks like a lighthouse with its crown of windows, surrounding deck and marine-cable railing. e ither way you see it, the design fits well on this grown-over farmland one mile from the shore. g ibson is a mechanical engineer and approached the project as he would any product design, although he typically applies his skills to medical devices.

To save space in the kitchen, Gibson designed and built an island with long overhangs, then "hacked" two Ikea rolling carts by fitting them with induction cooktops. With the addition of a small brick oven (behind island) no range is required. Three reclaimed pendant fixtures from a gas station light the space with industrial style.

“Design is design. The principles are the same,” he says.

Space-saving features make the tiny house livable and smart. Custom-built beds hide rolling storage drawers beneath. The kitchen has plenty of counter space due to an inventive cooking solution. Two rolling carts, each outfitted with a single-burner electric induction cooktop, roll out from the ends of the custom-built island at dinnertime. Laundry takes up half the usual space with a combination washer-dryer unit by LG that dries clothes by extraction and requires no venting.

Both spatial and mechanical efficiency were important, so Gibson outfitted the house with electric in-floor radiant heat under cement fiberboard and travertine tile. The floor’s high thermal mass paired with good insulation and an aluminum building envelope conserve energy without sacrificing comfort. Everything is

electric, and soon Jim hopes to install a residential wind turbine to generate most of the energy.

The aesthetic is as simple as the plan, with whitewashed cedar paneling, a natural wood ceiling, and many classic mullioned windows, even in the ceiling where attic skylights spill light into the living space.

Gibson’s favorite feature of the house is his tower office where he can see for miles and monitor conditions for hang gliding. Even when work keeps him grounded, the windows envelop him with light and breezes, and his tiny home feels as vast as the sky over the Big Lake.

Diane Kolak writes from Lake Ann, where she also operates Dwelement Home Design. dwelement.com

40.

ABOVE: In true studio fashion, the living space is also the sleeping space. Gibson is still working on the bed units, which feature storage drawers that roll from beneath. BELOW: Gibson designed inventive cut-outs for the bathroom vanity, so hardware is not needed and the look is sleek and clean.

ROOFING

Nate Roper, Metal Roofing Specialties, Honor, 231-325-92726 metalroofspecs.com

MASONRY

Ken Link. Honor, 231-882-7052

PLUMBING Gil Frantz, Frankfort, 231-352-9413

ELECTRICAL

Randy Olsen, Olsen Electric, Inc., Frankfort, 231-352-4201, olsenelectricinc.com

EXCAVATION & SEPTIC INSTALLATION

Bradley Sand & Gravel, Inc., Honor, 231-325-5583

Words for sharing the sweet memories of Up Nor th of North

WELL DRILLING

Bob's Well Drilling, Inc., Interlochen, 231-275-7539

WOOD FLOORING Lumber Liquidators, Traverse City, 231-668-9207, lumberliquidators.com

PRE-STAINED CEDAR SIDING Cedar Shingles Direct, Wyoming, Michigan, 800-641-9663, cedarshinglesdirect.com

RAW CEDAR DECKING Frankfort Building Supply, Frankfort, 800-262-5278, honorbuildingsupply.com

CONCRETE Cornillie Concrete, Bear Lake, 800-570-4567, us-concrete.com

“Word “Word Crystal Crate

“ Word Bowls” and fun

“ Word Pillows”: Only at C r ys t al C r ate & Cargo in Beulah!

Word Bowl artist Sean Sterzer creates decorative bowls that are adorned with phrases of all things Up North, like a journal of favorite vacations. The beech hardwood is Michigan grown and milled, and hand-lettered here. Her new silk screened pillows are adorned with more words and phrases for dreamy Up North memories, perfect for the boat, cottage or RV. Both are available only at Crystal Crate & Cargo in Beulah!

Phone: 1-800-SUPREMO · 231-882-5294

Mail: PO Box 321, Beulah, MI 49617

Web: www.crystalcrate.com

Hours: Mon.–Sat. 10–5:30; Sun. 11–4

Compression molded composite decking featuring an incredibly true-to-life, deep lasting grain. Designed for those who love the natural look of real wood with low maintenance. EverGrain decking requires no staining or painting and is available in nine beautiful colors to perfectly complement any home. EverGrain decking features even deeper colors and enhanced weathering characteristics, making it a more attractive choice than ever.

Easy Installation • Low Maintenance No need for painting or staining

25-year limited warranty against rotting, splintering, splitting and termite damage

Three Layers Make The Difference

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Impact resistant • Lightweight, yet stiff Weather resistant and low maintenance Cuts easily and installs quickly

25-year limited warranty, including a 5-year Full Start Period

Dining

Mushroom, Leek and Cashew Risotto

RESTAURANT GUIDE & LOCAL FOODIE

Bay Leaf

120 S. PARK STREET, TRAVERSE CITY 231.421.5912

BY TIM TEBEAU

Polished brown-black maple floors and deep sage walls play space to a delectable orbit of pork belly and persimmon salads and crispy duck confit over beluga lentils; this is the universe of The Bay Leaf and the center of gravity is 28- year-old chef Adam McMarlin, TC’s hottest new culinary talent. Bay Leaf harnesses contemporary American bistro fever in all the right ways. A creative but unpretentious menu showcases local ingredients, heritage hogs, housemade charcuterie and classic French technique. You’ll find rustic comfort food like braised pork cheeks with crispy duck-fat-poached potatoes and tomato saffron jam and be able to wash it down with a great glass of red from the Rhône Valley. Bay Leaf has an extensive modern wine program with over 40 offerings by the glass and casual diners can go gastro-pub style in the bar area, enjoying a wine flight and a couple of appetizers for less than 30 bucks. Join us this month as we explore how the great American pork revival has inspired the kitchens of the North.

On the Town

Snout to tail, the noble pig makes for tasty April table fare.

BY TIM TEBEAU

La Bécasse 9009 SOUTH DUNNS FARM ROAD, BURDICKVILLE 231-334-3944

Cassoulet for Two: Take your lover and your appetite to the back roads of Burdickville for the official dish of Gascony. Duck, Toulouse sausage and, yes, lots of rich pork are slow-cooked with white beans, tomato and herbs.

Trattoria Stella 1200 WEST ELEVENTH STREET, TRAVERSE CITY 231-929-8989

Pig’s Foot: Slow cooked, focaccia dusted, fried and served up with hot peppers, lemon and thyme, it doesn’t really get any better.

Lulu’s Bistro 213 NORTH BRIDGE STREET, BELLAIRE 231-533-5252

Smoked Pork Sliders: Lulu’s provides midday ecstasy in the form of smoked, hand-pulled pork butt served on a crusty roll with barbeque caramelized onions and truffle oil slaw.

Chandler’s 215 ½ HOWARD STREET, PETOSKEY 231-347-2981

Bangers and Mash: Chef Tommy Kaszubowski reinvents this old school English pub favorite with housemade pork sausage, creamy mashed potatoes and spicy mustard. Have two pints and take the rest of the day off.

Adam McMarlin

EXECUTIVE

CHEF, THE BAY LEAF, TRAVERSE CITY

With humble beginnings as a self-described ‘produce rat’ at Vince & Joe’s on Detroit’s east side, Adam McMarlin felt the pull of the kitchen through his college years and got a hands-on education at San Diego’s Farmhouse Café before returning to Michigan and opening Traverse City’s Bay Leaf with Dan Kelly and Denny Fitzpatrick last fall. We catch Adam in his kitchen to eat pork and talk simple food.

This is my first time eating pork cheeks; what makes them so good?

The cheek or jowl is a very tough muscle because it’s used constantly but it is flavorful for that very reason. I slowly braise it in beer with star anise, fennel seeds, cardamom, coriander and cinnamon stick and then sear it before serving.

Since this month is all about the pigs, what should our readers know?

If you’re going to get serious about pork, the quality of the pig is most important. Locally raised heritage breeds like Berkshire or Mangalitsa are highly marbled and therefore better. I encourage everyone to order or cook with the more flavorful cuts like shoulder, belly and rib chops.

Food editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com

FOODIE FILE

Trattoria Stella

Restaurant Guide

BLD: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner BAR: Alcohol served $: Entrées under $10 $$: $10–20 $$$: Above $20 Water view

Bay Harbor

Arthur’s 27 Steak house in a casual environment. BLD •

$$ 27 BAY HARBOR GOLF CLUB, BAY HARBOR, 439-4085

Cava A sleek modern lounge with huge view and small plates like wood-fired pizza with housemade chorizo, homemade meatballs, caterpillar sushi rolls. Dinner is seared diver scallops with sweet corn risotto or barbecue braised short ribs. LD • BAR • $-$$ 795 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 439-2282

Galley Gourmet Sparkling Balducci’s-style deli and market offers portable meals, wine, fresh baked goods, gift baskets and a counter from which to inhale it all. BL • $-$$ 4181 MAIN ST., BAY HARBOR, 439-2665

Knot, Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 439-2770

Original Pancake House Flapjacks and breakfast. BL • $ MAIN ST., BAY HARBOR, 439-9989

The Inn at Bay Harbor Sagamore’s Dining Room— Nouveau Victorian inn with glorious Lake Michigan views and sophisticated gourmet fare. Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. Live music on weekends. South American Grille and Wine Bar—Enjoy casual fare, a game of chess or a cocktail in this intimate leather-and-mahogany lounge. Live music on weekends. BLD • BAR • $$-$$$ THE INN AT BAY HARBOR, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 439-4000

Harbor Springs

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room— Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Slopeside Lounge— Casual pub food featuring local craft beers and live entertainment. Sushi night every Wednesday. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 526-3000

The Coop Café Fresh-from-the-farm gyros and sandwiches with homegrown veggies, pickles and preserves. Dine in the market barn at the picturesque Pond Hill Farm. L $ 5699 S. LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 526-3276

Mary Ellen’s Place Old fashioned soda fountain and newsstand. Omelets, homemade soup, stuffed hash browns, phosphates and malts. BL • $ 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 526-5591

New York Restaurant Culinary Institute of America–trained Matt Bugera’s eclectic restaurant in a former 1904 hotel looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven (try the shrimp Judy with spicy red Thai curry or roasted pork tenderloin with sauteed rice cakes). D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY, HARBOR SPRINGS, 526-1904

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—Fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 526-6201

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV. D • BAR • $$ 50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 526-7805

Turkey’s Cafe and Pizzeria Special omelets, bagels, French toast, burgers, pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches—served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building. BLD $ 250 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 526-6041

Petoskey

American Spoon Gelato Café Gleaming black-and-white fullservice cafe serving scrumptious panini, soup, salad, gourmet pizzas and Northern Michigan–flavored gelato. BLD $ 413 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 347-7004

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN ST., PETOSKEY, 347-5583

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 ⁄2 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 347-2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Pastas, regional specialties and live entertainment Wed.–Sat. are the draws at this popular haunt. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 347-0101

Jesperson’s The city’s oldest continually operating restaurant offers homestyle soups, sandwiches and homemade pies. L $ 312 HOWARD, PETOSKEY, 347-3601

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231-348-3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 439-9250

La Señorita Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. LD • BAR • $ 1285 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 247-7750

Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with homemade falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. LD • $-$$ 1823 U.S. 31 NORTH, PETOSKEY, 348-9994

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231-347-1801

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-$$$$ Waas-no-dé Buffet—Generous spread including “live-action food stations,” a rotisserie and a wood-burning pizza oven, beer and wine. BLD • $-$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877-442-6464

NEW Palette Bistro Mediterranean-inspired upscale bistro. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 348-3321

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 347-9291

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 347-2771

Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 347-4000

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY, 347-2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and composed salads. LD $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST., 231-487-9900

Tokyo Japanese Restaurant Spare, unassuming spot offers authentic sushi, California rolls and Japanese noodle and rice dishes. LD • $-$$ 307 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 439-3268

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 347-1440

Whitecaps Fresh seafood, a summer raw bar, woodfired pizzas, theater-style kitchen and an amazing bay view. LD • BAR $$-$$$ 215 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 348-7092

Bellaire

Lulu’s Swank, spare bistro highlights Chef Michael Peterson’s artful cuisine. LD • BAR $-$$ 213 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 533-5252

Moka A fireplace in, a rustic-modern patio out, plus Italian coffees, irresistible sandwiches and baked creations that dance with chef Cathy Peterson’s mood. BL

• $ 102 SOUTH BRIDGE LANE, BELLAIRE, 231-533-6262.

Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview Restaurant—Executive Chef Andrew Reh balances regional ingredients and fine dining with panoramic views of postcard sunsets over Lake Bellaire.

BLD • BAR • SF • $$-$$$ Ivan’s Mountainside Grill—Pub fare and

après-ski entertainment on the slopes of Schuss Mtn.—BLD • BAR • SF $-$$ 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. BELLAIRE, 800-678-4111

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD • BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 533-6622

Boyne Area

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge— Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. LD • BAR • $-$$ 549-7959. Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and a menu with Austrian and German touches. LD • BAR 549-6059. Open May–Sept. 1. BLD • BAR • $$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS, 549-6000

Café Santé Open air dining beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$. 1 WATER ST.. BOYNE CITY, 231-582-8800

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 582-0049

Walloon Lake Inn Chef David Beier’s exceptional culinary skills play out in a century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. Find inspirational cuisine from France, Asia and the Mediterranean. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 535-2999

Water Street Café Savor simple dishes with gourmet graces (muffaletta with fresh basil, burgers with balsamic onions) under the sparking chandeliers. Don’t skip the legendary House Cappuchocolate. Weekend supper club. BL • $ 113 WATER ST., 231-582-9929

Central Lake/Ellsworth/East Jordan

The Blue Pelican A vintage 1924 inn home to a genteel front porch, Carolina-style pulled pork, steaks, seafood and a blend of down South and Up North hospitality. D • BAR • $$ 2535 M-88, CENTRAL LAKE, 544-2583

The Front Porch Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fellowship and affordable home-cooked food. BL • $ 9235 MAIN ST., ELLSWORTH, 588-2000

Jordan Inn Impeccably renovated Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and crepe-style pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. Picnic baskets for takeout to nearby hiking spots. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 288 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231-536-9906

Murray’s Bar & Grill Sports bar with crab cakes, pierogies, bacon-stuffed burgers and a deck overlooking Lake Charlevoix. LD • BAR • $-$$ 115 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 536-3395

Rowe Inn In a rustic 1947 cottage, find French country specialties such as morel and leek pierogi, rainbow trout Provençal, herb and garlic-crusted rack of lamb and one of Michigan’s largest wine lists. D • BAR $$$ 6303 E. JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 588-7351

Charlevoix

Argonne Supper Club All-you-can-eat shrimp have been the hallmark of this bustling family fave for more than 75 years. D • BAR • $$ 11929 BOYNE CITY RD., CHARLEVOIX, 547-9331

Café Esperance Gourmands will adore dishes like spring pea soup with mint froth, empanadas with chimichurri and sirloin with bacon gastrique, all prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. LD • $-$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 237-9300

Edgewater Bistro Intimate lakeside venue near the drawbridge with chops and steaks, gourmet scrambles and homemade hash for breakfast, breads baked in-house. BLD • BAR • $$ 100 MICHIGAN AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 547-1700

Great Lakes Whitefish & Chips Deep-fried whitefish. LD • BAR • $$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 547-4374

Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate Victorian across from the harbor. Culinary Institute of America graduates Darren and Kelly Anderson Romano offer a seasonal menu and lavish desserts. LD • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE, CHARLEVOIX, 547-9261

Juilleret’s Classic diner with housemade soups, sandwiches, whitefish and famous cinnamon French toast. Outside dining in season. BL • $ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 547-9212

Dining

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

LD • BAR $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 547-2960

Sadie and Jake’s Zingerman’s coffee cake, bagel sandwiches, pretzel-bread panini and salads in a fresh, glowing gallery setting. BLD • $ 327 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 547-2097

Scovie’s Gourmet Deli & Bake Shop Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food: pepper-crusted steak, barbecue pork chops, liver and onions. BLD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 237-7827

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD • BAR

• $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 547-4311

Terry’s Place Chef Paul Bradley, a Culinary Institute of America grad, makes positively sublime sauces in this small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D • BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 547-2799

Villager Pub Terry Left’s downstairs digs feature a ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 547-6925

Whitney’s New England-style oyster bar with a Cheers feel, seafood, fish, chicken, steaks, sandwiches. Deck with entertainment Wed.–Sun. LD • BAR • $$ 305 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 547-0818

Elk Rapids

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD $ 147 RIVER ST., ELk RAPIDS, 264-8901

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively sounds of Zydeco, jazz and blues. LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES, ELk RAPIDS, 264-0530

Siren Hall Minimalist, industrial-chic bistro (with street-front patio seating in season) run by Lulu’s chef-owner Michael Peterson. Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELk RAPIDS, 264-6062

Leelanau County

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 271-2233

Art’s Tavern Legendary watering hole serves up local color alongside burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round. BLD • BAR • $ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 334-3754

blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D

• BAR • $$-$$$ LAk E ST., GLEN ARBOR, 334-2530

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 256-9081

Boone Dock’s Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks and great summer people-watching opps. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU, GLEN ARBOR, 334-6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly waitstaff.

LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 271-6688

Cedar Rustic Inn Cozy roadhouse setting with fresh-made comfort food like pot roast, perch, tamales and Southern-fried buttermilk chicken. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S. GOOD HARBOR TRAIL, CEDAR, 228-2282

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie. LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 386-9923

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. Good entertainment, a few outdoor tables, seasonal hours. D • BAR • $$ 4566 MACFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICk VILLE, 334-3900

Gusto Classic family-style Italian, featuring scratch-made pasta dishes, hand-tossed pizzas, steak, seafood and ribs. Dine by candlelight or with the kids. LD • BAR • 111 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 271-6222

Hang-On Express Thai and Chinese classics. LD • $ 316 ST JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 271-0202

The Homestead Cavanaugh’s—Deli and general store, specialty coffees, sandwiches, salads and ready-to-cook takeout meals. BLD $ Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 334-5000

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR • $$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 326-5506

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 386-7393

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICk VILLE, 334-3944 The Manor on Glen Lake Fine family dining in a renovated lakeside inn. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7345 W. GLENMERE ROAD, GLEN LAk E AT THE NARROWS, 334-0150.

Martha’s Leelanau Table Made from scratch bistro fare. Wed.-Sun. BLD 413 N. ST. JOSEPH S ST SUTTONS BAY 271-2344

North Centennial Inn Refined cuisine in a beautifully renovated, century-old farmhouse on Little Traverse Lake.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E. HARBOR HWY., M-22, MAPLE CITY, 228-5060

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD • BAR 420 ST. JOSEPH S SUTTONS BAY 271-5000

Riverside Inn Come by boat or land to dine on creative dishes made with seasonal local ingredients in this handsome 100-year-old spot with a relaxing river vista. Award-winning Sun. brunch. D • BAR $$-$$$ 302 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 256-9971

Sisson’s Main Street Specialties Fresh pastries, salads and soups. L • $ 203 N. MAIN ST., LELAND, 256-9201 Stone House Café Artisan bread fans can commune and savor fine edibles between the slices. BL • $ 407 S. MAIN, LELAND, 256-2577

Silvertree Deli and Gourmet Market 60-seat eatery offers quiche, baguettes, salads, subs, and ethnic dinner entrees, plus one of the largest wine selections in the North. LD $ 119 N. ST. JOSEPH SUTTONS BAY, 271-2271

Stubb’s Sweetwater Grill Innovative regional American cuisine with a few Asian accents in a colorful, modern setting. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 115 WAUk AZOO, NORTHPORT, 386-7611 The Village Inn Northwoods tavern plus smoke-free restaurant with hearty breakfasts, fresh salads, Black Angus burgers, steaks, seafood and authentic Mexican. BLD • BAR

• $–$$ 201 ST. JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 271-3300

Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 334-3362

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 276-6979

Old Mission Peninsula

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with nautical-rustic decor, fireplace, fabulous view and great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 223-4030

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on-site. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 13512

OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 223-4333

Mission Table Fine regional cuisine in a romantic, woodpaneled former lumber baron’s bayfront mansion with an extensive wine list, herb garden and wine-producing vineyards. D • BAR • $$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 223-4222

Old Mission Tavern More than fine dining—prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials— this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner

Verna Bartnick’s studio. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 223-7280

Peninsula Grill Roadhouse with cozy fireplace, wings, burgs, and regional Northern fare. LD • BAR • $$ 14091 CENTER RD. TRAVERSE CITY, 231-223-7200

Traverse City—Downtown

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Don’t miss the raspberry crème brûlée. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 941-8888

Bay Bread Company Bakery Bread, sandwiches, soups and salads. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH TRAVERSE CITY. 992-8022

new The Bay Leaf Handcrafted bistro cuisine. D • $-$$ 120 S. PARk ST TRAVERSE CITY 231-421-5912.

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-scratch farmer food: meatloaf, hot turkey sandwiches, Monterey mac with smoked chicken. Be sure to check out The Shed next door. The comfy burger bar boasts a list of over 25 Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922-9515

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads, tacos. BLD • BAR • $ 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY. 995-0570

Chez Peres and Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAk E AVE., TRAVERSE CITY 922-9645

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-8700

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties, Cobb salad, raspberry lemonade and more in a fresh corner cafe. BLD $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 941-7821

CW’s Bluewater Bistro Flavorful American entrees such as almond encrusted walleye with cherry butter, and old-fashioned carrot cake. BLD • BAR $$ Wingers Sports Bar—views of the bay and 11 TVs. LD • BAR • $-$$ HOLIDAY INN WEST BAY RESORT, 615 EAST FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 800-888-8020

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD $ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 932-2233

EuroStop A hotspot by the railroad tracks for local hot dogs on warm baguettes, fried eggplant sandwiches and Reubens. LD $ 620 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 421-1076

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. LD • BAR • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 932-1310

Double Eagle Restaurant Native American decor in a high-ceilinged dining room with wings, wraps, burgers, steaks, ribs. Buffets Tues. and Sun. brunch. BLD

• BAR •

$-$$ LEELANAU SANDS CASINO, 2521 N. WEST BAYSHORE DR., SUTTONS BAY, 271-4104

Eat Spot Inventive salads and sandwiches in an eclectic cafe with a courtyard. LD • $ 25 MILL ST., 386-7536

Interlochen/Lake Ann

Giovanni’s Roadhouse A fresh face on an old haunt, with knockout pizzas like pesto with roasted corn, bell peppers, bleu and brie cheeses, plus prime rib, angel hair aglio olio and great wines. LD • BAR $-$$ 9205 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231-276-6244

Folgarelli’s Market Throngs flock to this former train station for Italian and imported foods, deli sandwiches, entrees, home-baked goods, wine and fresh roasted coffee. BL • $ 424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 941-7651

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. LD • $ 619 RANDOLPH STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 944-1228

An amazing organization is sprouting in the Benzie County soil. It’s called Grow Benzie, and the group defines itself as a community farmstead—a place where you can tend a plot in a community garden or take classes in all things local foodie, from gardening to cooking. The organization’s newly released cookbook, Seasonal Harvest Recipes, is geared to make us want to plant a garden or hit the nearest farm market. Or, in the case of the recipe below, trek into the Benzie County forests in spring to gather morels and leeks.—E.E

To order the cookbook and find out more about Grow Benzie: growbenzie.org.

Mushroom, Leek and Cashew Risotto

1 K cup brown rice

3 ¾ cup vegetable stock of a mixture of stock and dry white wine in the ratio of 5:1

1 tablespoon walnut or hazelnut oil

2 leeks, sliced

2 cups mixed wild mushrooms (such as morels), trimmed and sliced

½ cup cashew nuts

Grated rind of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped

¼ cup pumpkin seeds

Salt and ground black pepper

Fresh thyme leaves and lemon wedges for garnish

Place the brown rice in a large saucepan, pour in the vegetable stock (or stock and

wine), and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and cook gently for about 30 minutes, until all the stock has been absorbed and the rice grains are tender. About 6 minutes before the rice is cooked, heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the leeks and mushrooms and fry over a gentle heat for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the cashews, lemon rind and chopped thyme to the leeks and mushrooms, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper. Drain off any excess stock from the cooked rice and stir in the mushroom-leek mixture. Turn into a serving dish. Scatter pumpkin seeds over the top and garnish with fresh thyme sprigs and lemon wedges. Serve immediately.

LOCAL FOODIE

Dining

The Green House Café Wally Green’s long list of fresh sandwiches, inventive soups and salads plus a friendly staff add up to packed premises at lunchtime—and the short wait’s worth it. BL • $ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 929-7687

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL • $ 525 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922-7437

Hanna Bustling bistro is T.C.’s mecca of class and cuisine. Fresh fish, smooth service, smart wine list. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ 118 CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-8207

House of Doggs Retro hot dog counter is a hit with families by day and bar crowd by night. LD • $ 120 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922-1348

Latté-DAH Sandwiches, soups and pastries, some direct from France. The topsy-turvy floor, a Slabtown original, adds to the charm. BL • $ 720 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922-8722

Lil Bo Legendary Front Street spot offers excellent olive burgers, homemade comfort food and Italian. LD BAR • $-$$ 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-6925

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933-1100

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 947-9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Loud and lively former candy factory with high ceilings, wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 941-7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BL • $ 124 CASS AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-0912 AND 946-0590

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths puts pizza pie on a pedestal. LD $ 447 E FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 941-5740

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Patio seating and cozy booths for sharing pies made with golden crusts and a world of inventive toppings (beets, chorizo, cilantro, prosciutto, pecans …) LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-9800

Phil’s on Front Mosaic-tiled chocolate bar/lounge and bistro. D • BAR $-$$ 236 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 929-1710

Poppycock’s Beautiful plates with focus on locally grown produce, seafood and fresh ethnic offerings. Pastry case with chocolate truffle cake, LD • BAR $-$$ 128 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 941-7632

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh-sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 944-1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips A new location for ultra fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD $ 303 E. STATE ST., 933-8700

Stone House Café Gourmet sandwiches on artisanal, fresh salads, baked goods. BL • $ 202 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 421-8282

Soul Hole Po’ boys, ribs, catfish, shrimp and grits and other eclectic Southern comfort food. Dine in or take out. LD $•$$ 408 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 929-7238

NEW Union Cantina Great Mexican right downtown. BLD • BAR • $•$$ 127 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 421-1663

Zakey Dining room and takeout counter offers Middle Eastern cuisine such as hommous, babaganouge and fatoush. LD • $ 149 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 421-5472

Traverse City–East

Agave Mexican Grill Authentic, freshly made Mex. LD • BAR • $-$$ 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 929-4408

Don’s Drive-In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $ 2030 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 938-1860

Golden Chopsticks Attractive full-service Asian eatery with Chinese and Thai specialties, sushi. LD $-$$ 1752 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 938-1960

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16TH-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD $$ The Clubhouse Grille—open seasonally, with steaks, chops and fish. D • BAR • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME 534-6000

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. LD • BAR • $ 1245 S. GARFIELD AND 2455 N. U.S. 31 S., TRAVERSE CITY, 947-8820

Mabel’s Family restaurant with bakery, comfort food and breakfast anytime. BLD • $$ 472 MUNSON, TRAVERSE CITY, 947-0252

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544 U.S. 31, TRAVERSE CITY, 938-2773

Schelde’s Grille & Spirits Casual family dining, bar area. Find mesquite-grilled steaks, seafood, soups and salads, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$ 714 MUNSON, TRAVERSE CITY, 946-0981

Steven’s Place Casual and classy nightclub with uber-healthy gourmet cuisine, cocktails and dancing. LD • BAR • $$ 738 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 929-8945

TraVino Wine & Grille Lively Mediterranean-style restaurant overlooking the Grand Traverse Resort’s golf course. Wide array of tapas-style appetizers, pasta, fish, steak, pizza, sandwiches and a large wine bar. LD • BAR • $$ 4341 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 938-9496

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—The saucier at this chic spot makes its namesake sing in pork chops, Kobe beef, blueberry bread pudding and more. Also seafood and prime rib. D • BAR • $$-$$$ The Deli—24-hour hangout with highstacked sandwiches, pizza and coneys. BLD • BAR • $ Level 3 Lounge—Nightclub with creative mixologist. Seasons Buffet—A glorious spread from homey to high-end. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231-534-8888

Traverse City–South

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Big portions play a starring role in this rambling log cabin. Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-3991 Centre Street Cafe Fine and flavorful sammies and salads. L • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 946-5872

Hunan David Lin presides over this authentic Chinese eatery that’s hidden behind a Taco Bell. Seek it out for everything from General Tso’s to Thai to hand-rolled sushi. LD • $-$$ 1425 S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 947-1388

Opa! Classic Detroit-style coney and grill with mouthwatering Greek treats like crunchy falafel, rich spanakopita, gyros and lemon soup. BLD $-$$ 1752 S. GARFIELD AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 947-6721

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Counter and table seating. BL • $ 1315 WEST S. AIRPORT ROAD, TRAVERSE CITY, 421-5506

Traverse City–West

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 947-7079

Scott’s Harbor Grill Modern, casual restaurant above the Harbor West Yacht Club with fresh Mex, seafood, nightly specials and indoor and outdoor seating. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 922-2114

The Silver Swan Chef Yola Pepellashi and family turn out terrific ethnic fare and killer desserts in this small cafe with attached gift boutique. LD • $ 13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 932-0203

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$ 717

RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 947-9213

Trattoria Stella Exposed brick alcoves and a communal bar in this restored Building 50 spot make a cozy setting for an intimate Italian dinner or after-work aperitif. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 929-8989

Tuscan Bistro Great patio, marina delivery and Mickey Cannon’s fresh bistro eats with Cajun and Italian influences. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12930 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231-922-7795

Benzonia/Beulah/Honor/Thompsonville

The Cherry Hut Jerry the Pie-Faced Boy has presided over this kitschy former fruit stand since 1922. Homemade cherry pies, jams, jellies, red-and-white-clad servers and American-style food. B (FRI.–SUN.), LD $ 216 N. MICHIGAN AVE. (U.S. 31), BEULAH, 882-4431

Crystal Cafe Casual Dining American-style food. Fri. & Sat. night fish fry. BLD • $. 1675 BENZIE HWY, BENZONIA, 882-9565

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$. Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ Little Betsie Bistro—Handmade pizza, wings, salads. LD • BAR • $ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 946-3585 OR 378-2000

Hungry Tummy Restaurant Breakfast all day, daily specials, broasted chicken & pizza. BLD • $-$$. S BENZIE BLVD, BEULAH, 882-5103

Phoenix Cafe A renovated 1937 service station with fabulous ginger scones, breakfast sandwiches on homemade herb focaccia, tuna melts with fresh dill and parsley. BL • $ 245 S. BENZIE BLVD. BEULAH, 882-2005

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere, hip entertainment and patio dining. LD • BAR $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE. (U.S. 31), BENZONIA, 882-9631

Frankfort/Elberta

NEW Bayview Grille Burgers, steak, mussels, beignets, buffalo wings-—an eclectic menu served with a view of Betsie Bay. BLD • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 352-8050

Betsie Bay Inn Gorgeous renovated Victorian inn with delectable breakfasts, pub fare, elegant dinners and wine cellar. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 352-8090

The Cabbage Shed A rambling produce warehouse from the late 1800’s is home to serene views, great suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D • $-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 352-9843

Coho Café Contemporary cuisine—hand-rolled shrimp spring rolls, sesame-crusted yellow fin tuna, citrus-glazed salmon—with a focus on fresh seafood. Spacious patio overlooking Betsie Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 320 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 352-6053

Crescent Bakery A cool lunch counter looks ’50s, but the baked goods and sandwiches are pure 21st century, in the best way. Find artisanal breads, pies, cheesecakes, and hand decorated cookies. BL • $ 404 MAIN ST., 352-4611

Dinghy’s This ship-themed landmark serves up meaty ribs, turkey legs, chicken and pulled pork from the smoker. Great burgs and fresh soups. Come early for the Friday fish fry. LD • BAR • $$ 417 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 352-4702

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 352-4114

L’chayim Delicatessen NY style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $ 274 S BENZIE BLVD, BEULAH, 882-5221

Mayfair Tavern At the crook of Betsie Bay, find a classic fisherman’s bar with herbed, pan-fried perch and walleye, wet burritos, liver and onions, 8 rotating taps. LD • BAR • $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 352-9136

Tali Bistro Linger over Italian, French, and Spanish dishes such as chicken Napoleon with Calvados beurre blanc, tilapia on polenta and duck l’orange in a serene spot with a glass mezzanine facing the street. D • BAR $-$$ 411 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 352-5252

Villa Marine Friday fish special. Saturday prime rib. American cooking. LD • $-$$ 228 MAIN ST FRANKFORT, 352-5450

Arcadia/Onekama

Blue Slipper Bistro Crowds flock to this cedar-paneled, beamceilinged, 100-plus-year-old spot with the big oak bar for elegant pastas, rainbow trout and beef tenderloin. LD • BAR • $$ 8058 1ST ST., ONEKAMA, 889-4045

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts. Open for dinner at 5 p.m. D • BAR • $–$$ 4604 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 889-3734

Craft Pale Ales

BY TIM TEBEAU

Dubbed the perfect session beer for its smooth equilibrium of lightly roasted malt and subtle hop nuance, the pale ale, or bitter beer, is one of the most widely guzzled in contemporary craft brew culture. Typically sporting a light copper color, pale ale flashes floral, citrus and herbal aromas, smooth medium-weight mouthfeel and a faint residual bitterness. Pale ale, happy to fly solo, is also the definitive pal of new and old school pub fare as its lightly bitter edge complements all things fried, cured, smoked or salted. Read on as we drain the bitter glass Up North style.

North Peak Pale Ale

400 1/2 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231-941-7325, NORTHPEAK.NET

The runaway favorite of North Peak patrons, Dave Hale’s rich American-style pale ale, shows a solid malt backbone with mild caramel and citrus notes.

Short’s Pandemonium Pale Ale

121 N. BRIDGE STREET, BELLAIRE, 231-533-6622, SHORTSBREWING.COM

Short’s brings the ‘bitter hysteria’ with their cultish and hopdriven take on pale ale. Sweet caramel on the initial attack gives way to bright fruit and floral aromas finishing with a trace of earthy, bitter hops.

Right Brain Brewery Will Power Pale Ale

221 GARLAND ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231-944-1239, RIGHTBRAINBREWERY.COM

Smooth with the signature citrus undertones of Cascade hops, Right Brain’s pale ale has a bitter, enduring finish that pairs brilliantly with lake perch and remoulade.

Dave Hale

Mackinaw Brewing Company Peninsula Pale Ale

161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231-933-1100, MACKINAWBREWING.COM

Mackinaw Brewing’s Peninsula pale ale has assertive hop and floral aromas that give way to a light caramel sweetness to complement barbecue pork.

Leelanau Brewing Company Petoskey Pale LEELANAUBEER.COM

Brewed and barrel-aged at Jolly Pumpkin, Petoskey pale shows apricot and bright citrusy hop notes somewhat reminiscent of the Franco-Belgian farmhouse style. Yum!

BREWER, NORTH PEAK BREWING, TRAVERSE CITY

A refugee from the Detroit suburbs, North Peak’s new brewer Dave Hale caught the craft beer fever in the taproom at Bell’s during his college years and followed the foam to beer school in Davis, California. After apprenticeships in the West, Hale returned to Michigan to brew at Bell’s and Arcadia before joining North Peak last May. We grab Dave for a pint and a few words on pale ale.

Pale Ale is definitely North Peak’s signature. What defines your approach?

As a brewer, I’m very style-driven, I want pale ale that tastes like pale ale. That means a beer that is very drinkable and has some bitter character that’s set off by light to medium caramel sweetness. We go for a less aggressive hop presence in our pale ale and focus on balance.

What do you recommend for soaking up a few pints of pale ale?

Pale ale and fish and chips are the proverbial peanut butter and jelly of beer and food pairings, which goes back to the beer’s English roots. Because pales don’t have huge, dominating flavors themselves they can pair with a wide range of foods. I also think of them as the quintessential burger beer.

Food editor Tim Tebeau writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com

Into the North

Spring Awaits Charlevoix

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBYN ALEXANDER

Congratulations to Robyn Alexander, whose image from the MyNorth.com Photo Gallery is featured in this month’s Into the North. To see all images or to post your own, go to MyNorth.com, click Photo Gallery.