nagazasshi VOLUME 12, ISSUE 4
SPRING 2020 FREE!/無料
Unearthing Nagasaki and Beyond
nagazasshi As we finish up the third month of 2020, it’s clear the year has been anything but mundane. Politics, economics, and climate aside, we face the dual threats of the COVID-19 virus and of managing our own reactions to it. From our side at the Nagazasshi, we truly hope our prefecture will do well in dealing with the threat and any cases of the virus. In this season's issue, we hope to encourage you to keep some optimism for the months ahead. To quote an American doctor and YouTuber, “Alert, not anxious.” We want to continue to share the joy and excitement brought forth from the wonderful prefecture we find ourselves in. With spring vacation and Golden Week coming up, we asked you for your travel ideas. Turn to page 4 for these, as well as further information on (eco-friendly) domestic and international travel options, cake included. In the spirit of supporting local businesses we are delighted to feature Nagasaki Wellness on page 10, a new health and wellness platform established within Nagasaki City. Follow along with Abbie as she experiences their range of offerings. Straddling the Nagasaki-Saga prefectural border, you can find the towns of Arita, Hasami, and Mikawachi. With the proverbial pottery season upon us soon, we take some time to learn more about what can be seen and enjoyed at these aesthetic locations, starting from page 12. Regardless of where we may find ourselves in the coming months, let’s make the most of our circumstances and enjoy the fresh earth, plant, and pottery sensations of the season.
CONTENTS
VOLUME 12, ISSUE 4
SPRING 2020
4 GOLDEN WEEK
Exploring in and out
6 GO CAR, STAY CAR, SMART CAR, KEI CAR Eco Travel
7 A ROLLING COUNTRY KITCHEN Luxury on the Hanto
8 NAGASAKI AND BEYOND
Voyaging beyond our borders
10 NAGASAKI WELLNESS
A healthy option in the city
12 HASAMIYAKI
Practical Pottery
14 ARITA PORCELAIN PARK Checkered and Mate
16 MIKAWACHI POTTERY A league of its own
18 NIHONGO ON THE GO DIRECTOR: Emmanuel Feliciano PUBLISHING PARTNER: Dominic Balasuriya EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Flipi Poggenpoel EDITORS: Abbie Philpott, J.S. COPY EDITOR: Darsheka Ranchhod, Clara Altfeld DESIGNER: Charlotte Gautier SOCIAL MEDIA: Emmanuel Feliciano CONTRIBUTORS: Kane Pride, Amber Jones, Alice Mercep, Alice Trudel, Yeti Trudel, Aljohn Flores, Deidre Foley, Nagasaki Wellness, Masafumi Kanda FOUNDERS: Andrew Morris, Matthew Nelson
COVER ILLUSTRATION: Charlotte Gautier INSIDE-COVER PHOTO: Charlotte Gautier
Flipi Poggenpoel Editor-in-chief
@nagazasshi
Saving that precious paid leave for long holidays like Golden Week can sometimes be tricky, with all the options, or lack of them (depending on how early you planned and booked). Not to mention the influx of local tourists that usually drives the prices of flights and accommodations up. Fortunately, we have fellow Nagazasshi readers with tips and hacks on how to save on effort and money for Golden Week or other long holidays. Enjoy!
Best general advice from Amber Jones, an ALT in Sasebo: I know it’s a bit late now, but I recommend booking as far in advance as possible. Golden Week is prime vacation time, so hotels fill up fast on popular destinations. I always try to plan a year in advance when possible. I booked my hotel last year for this year’s Golden Week and I was able to get a really great rate. It’s never too early to start planning.
Alice Mercep, an ALT in Omura City shares the idea of exploring Kyushu rather than leaving the country: Why not explore my own backyard of Kyushu? Not only would I save myself from the hassle of airports and international travel but I would also get to discover more of the southern part of Japan that I call home. I’ve made it a goal to visit all the prefectures of Kyushu. I’ve already managed to tick off six of the seven with only Miyazaki being left. While my knowledge of Miyazaki is limited, I’m aware it’s known for its beautiful beaches. As surfing is on my bucket list, I decided to see if there were any surf schools in Miyazaki. Turns out there’s a ton with some even offering additional activities such as yoga and nature walks, which also happen to be personal interests of mine. As I continued my research, I found the city also has a popular bar run by a New Zealander - a great slice of home for a Kiwi-JET such as myself. All in all, my golden nugget of advice would be to not overlook traveling within Kyushu. As I’ve quickly come to realize, the island truly does have some hidden gems that are waiting to be explored. 4
Destination
Accommodatiom
Transport
• Use the Skyscanner ‘anywhere’ function to compare the prices of multiple destinations. • Think about your bucket list. See if you can cross anything off while in Japan. • Think about your hobbies. See if you can pursue them elsewhere in Japan (e.g yoga.)
• Use Tatami Timeshare or Couchsurfing to see if there are any hosts in the area you want to visit. Not only will you save on accommodation but you will also get to meet new people too.
• Although the shinkansen may reduce travel time, taking buses is far more cost-efficient. www.atbus-decom.e.jo.hp.transer.com
has routes all over Kyushu.
Alice and Yeti Trudel, a former ALT in Sasebo, share another transportation tip: rent a car. Of this, Yeti says: Even though people say that traffic is at a peak during Golden Week, I'd recommend renting one for just a day and hitting up those spots that you know are off the beaten path/less traveled. Sometimes it ends up being cheaper (and faster) than public transit.
A Nagazasshi reader outside of Kyushu also has a recommendation. Aljohn Flores, an ALT in Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture, recommends a less traveled but beautiful place: Mount Yashima in Takamatsu City, Kagawa Prefecture lets you experience the rich history of Japan and enjoy the breathtaking view of the Seto Inland Sea. Some of the things you will surely enjoy visiting on top of the mountain are a museum that displays artifacts showing Yashima’s history (entrance costs 500 yen); and the Yashima Temple, the 84th of the 88 temples of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The mountain rarely gets crowded even on weekends (at least from my experience), so if you’re the kind who is already tired of jam-packed tourist destinations, you will surely enjoy this place. Some restaurants serve udon on the mountain, but if you prefer to bring your own food, you may! Just find a bench, and enjoy the view of Takamatsu City while you eat. You may choose to hike the mountain or go by bus from Kotoden Yashima Station for only a 100 yen one way.
What’s the best thing about visiting Mount Yashima? Well, save the 500 yen for the museum and the 100 yen for the bus, going around Mount Yashima is FREE! 5
I drive three miles to and from work every day. I drive to my friends’ apartments. I drive to the grocery store, to the nearby cities, and to the konbini. I could theoretically walk the hour to school instead of driving the 10 minutes, although driving is certainly more convenient. But convenience comes with a cost. This may not be my home country, but I am now a part of the community here, and I have a responsibility to that community. To me, I want being a part of a community to mean treating the environment around me well.
THE PROBLEM Japan is the world’s fifth-largest producer of CO2 emissions. The transportation industry emits 17.1% of Japan’s CO2 emissions. Even though the more environmentally friendly Kei cars and hybrids are the majority of car sales in Japan, privately owned cars are still the main culprit in that 17%. Even beyond environmental sympathy, pollution from transportation has serious health effects. Cars are a large emitter of PM2.5, which is a carcinogen, and diesel vehicles also emit NOx, which causes respiratory disorders, smog, and acid rain.
TEXT: Clara Altfeld IMAGES: irasutoya
Owning a car isn’t the only way to contribute to transportation pollution. Package redeliveries alone produce 420,000 tons of CO2 per year, and 70% of redeliveries occur because people choose to be out even though they are aware that they will have a package delivered. Beyond that, the air route between Tokyo and Fukuoka, which many Nagasaki residents take to get to Kyushu before catching the bus to Nagasaki, is the 3rd busiest air route in Japan
WHAT ABOUT NAGASAKI? However, the news isn’t all bad. There are two special initiatives in Nagasaki Prefecture that are designed to improve and expand upon eco-friendly transport. One is the Saikai Junkan Initiative. Saikai is a small city on the west side of the prefecture, so the initiative focuses on utilizing Saikai’s long coastline by improving water-based transportation. The other is the Tsushima Model. Tsushima is an archipelago between Japan and Korea. The model focuses on using local resources as an energy source, with a particular emphasis on using hydrogen to reduce the use of carbon. There are better transportation alternatives, besides driving and flying. There are, of course, local buses around the prefecture, in addition to trains and ferries. Nagasaki City is also well known for a unique type of transportation: the tram. The tram lines first opened in 1915, and connect most of the city. There’s even a wooden tram over 100 years old that’s still in use. Another interesting feature of the Nagasaki City trams is that there’s even a Light Rail Transport app to inform users of the current location of trams, provide information about tourism, and help reserve rides for elderly or differently-abled passengers.
WHAT CAN YOU DO? If, like me, you may be inspired to use public transportation more often, but aren’t about to get rid of your car, don’t worry. There’s still plenty to do that can help the car’s environmental impact. The Eco Drive Diffusion Network came up with tips to help lower the emissions of your vehicle. These include to softly press the accelerator and brake, release the accelerator early, and reduce idling (which yes, includes avoiding traffic). Also make sure to use the air conditioner and heater moderately, to frequently check the tire pressure and make sure the vehicle is properly maintained, and not to carry around unnecessary items that weigh down your car. When done correctly, eco-driving can reduce fuel consumption by up to 15%, and the care it takes also makes the roads a safer place. And for the particularly brave: Mobility Week is September 16th to 22nd, during which you are encouraged to walk, bike, or use public transportation instead of private vehicles. For both car owners and non-car owners alike, try to ease back on that tempting two-day shipping button, and time your online purchases so that they’ll be delivered when you’re at home. And if friends or family come to visit, encourage them to check out the public transportation or the Kyushu Rail Pass. Foreign tourists using rental cars jumped from 17.9 to 70.5 million between 2011 and 2015, which is, of course, bad for the environment, therefore, we should encourage the use of Japan’s efficient public transport.
ENVIRONMENTALLY FOCUSED TOURISM If you’re raring for an opportunity to explore your local public transportation options, here are some interesting ones. If you want to leave Nagasaki, check out Kitakyushu’s Environmental and Waste Management tour, and discover how Kitakyushu went from a “town of pollution” to environmentally centered. And if you want to explore more of Nagasaki, look into (or look into going again, with an eye to the environment) Huis Ten Bosch. It was built on the site of an old landfill, and one-third of its initial budget went to making it environmentally friendly. All of Huis Ten Bosch’s garbage becomes energy and compost, and there’s a huge diversity of trees, flowers, birds, and insects. They’ll even give you a tour of their environmental facilities. Even without a radical lifestyle change, there are always small things to constantly orient ourselves toward environmental consciousness. Environmental consciousness has to start with self-consciousness, whether that’s choosing to take the bus once in a while, driving without the AC, or keeping waste and pollution in mind as, not just a burden on, but a part of our tourism.
TEXT: Kane Pride A yellow train car glides across the coastline, cheered along by yellow flags rustling in the Ariake sea breeze. You sip some black tea and enjoy a bite of roll cake as the hushed sounds of waves on the shore wash over your ears. Through the window to your left: sunlight scatters across the ocean expanse, stretching far into the horizon. Turning inland, Mt. Fugen-dake looms in the green distance. A layer of mist wreathes her peak. A lunch of stewed pork and cream soup is served while the subdued rumbling of the train car continues on, meandering towards the castletown of Shimabara. The Shimabara Peninsula, or hanto, is one of Kyushu’s most under-appreciated gems, located about an hour and a half outside of Nagasaki City. The hanto is home to three main areas: Unzen, Shimabara, and Minami-Shimabara. Each location offers tourists something special. Visitors can hike through the Unzen-Amakusa National Park and spend the night in a forest cabin. In MinamtiShimabara, guests can sunbathe on Maehama Beach and unwind at the Masago hotspring. In Shimabara, sightseers can tour Shimabara Castle and stroll along the “Samurai Street.” The Shimatetsu Café Train is a unique way to tour the natural beauty of the Shimabara Peninsula from the comfort of a passenger car. On board the peninsula’s sole traveling café, you can enjoy savory local cuisine and mouthwatering desserts. A dedicated train attendant will act as your guide, providing facts about local landmarks and introducing the names and ingredients of each dish served.
PHOTOS: Shimatetsu Railway Co.
Among the varied food options are: stewed Unzen pork, “tea-infused” carbonara, chestnut Mont Blanc, fresh-made caramel, ginger pudding, strawberry frozen yogurt, camembert roll cake, and more. The café menu changes depending on the season, allowing for different dining experiences throughout the year. As the journey lasts two hours (one way) starting from Isahaya Station and ending at Shimabara Station, customers can enjoy dining at a leisurely pace. While approaching Omisaki Station (the only stop to be made during the trip), the tracks run closer to the sea than most other lines in Japan. Around the station, locals will tie yellow flags to ropes and pray for happiness. It is believed that the yellow flags will bring luck to those who write their wishes upon them. The golden-yellow cloth fluttering by the sea provides a great photo opportunity while you take in the hanto’s splendor. The cost of a one-way ticket is 5,500 yen for adults, 3,500 for children (ages 7-12), and 1,000 for children 6 and under. When purchasing a ticket at Isahaya Station, you can choose between the lunch course or the tea sweets only course. Every ticket allows for a free tour of Shimabara Castle and Shimeisho Spring Water Garden. After getting off at the last stop, you can easily access these sites (and they are definitely worth a visit). So, if the Ariake breeze is calling your name and you’d like to escape the city life for a taste of the countryside, then the Shimatetsu Café Train is your ticket to foodie paradise.
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SOUTH KOREA
TEXT: Emmanuel Feliciano
DISCLAIMER: As of this writing, several flights to and from some of these destinations have been suspended due to factors such as coronavirus prevention measures. You may check the websites of the featured airports for the latest updates. For those who want to escape the local tourism rush in Japan during Golden Week, why not explore nearby countries! Sounds too grand? It’s easy and you’ll probably spend the same amount of money as in Japan, trust me. One of the advantages of being in the southern part of Japan is that Nagasaki is closer to other countries in Asia. These destinations are accessible through Nagasaki Airport and other nearby airports. Let’s take a look at some of these international destinations. 8
With the new tourism tagline ‘Imagine your Korea,’ South Korea diversifies its tourism offerings and brands itself as more than just the land of beauty and K-pop. Nagasaki Airport has flights to and from Seoul. A cheaper option is nearby Saga airport, which has flights to both Seoul and Busan. Fukuoka International Airport also has flights to these two destinations, carried by both full service and low-cost airlines.
CHINA Enjoy both traditional and modern experiences in China’s biggest city and one of the world’s major financial hubs. There are flights to Shanghai via Nagasaki Airport. Saga Airport has flights carried by Spring Airlines which fly every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. Shanghai, as well as Beijing, and the provincial port city Dalian, can also be accessed through Fukuoka International Airport.
HONG KONG Want to head to one of the most visited cities in the world? Hong Kong Express has recently made it possible to fly direct from Nagasaki Airport to Hong Kong, and it only takes three hours and fifty minutes. Not bad right? There are flights every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. You can also fly to Hong Kong via Fukuoka International Airport.
Though Nagasaki Airport has flights to only three international destinations, Fukuoka Airport, which is only around two hours away from Nagasaki City and less than two hours away from Sasebo, has direct flights to other nearby countries. Check out these destinations where you can fly in less than five hours.
TAIWAN Next to South Korea, Taiwan is among the nearest international destinations from Kyushu. It is hailed as one of the world’s best food destinations. And don’t forget milk tea! You can fly to Taipei or Kaohsiung in less than three hours.
U.S.A (GUAM) PHILLIPPINES Just south of Taiwan is the Philippines, a tropical destination all year round. If you want to go to some of the best beaches and resorts in the world, then this is a must-visit destination. There are daily flights to Metro Manila (it takes only three hours and forty minutes), and from there you can connect to the local airports nearest your chosen beach.
Surprisingly to some, flying to Guam takes just about the same time as flying to other Asian countries. Jeju Air and United Airlines code sharing with ANA flies direct from Fukuoka Airport. It only takes an average of three hours and forty-five minutes.
Other destinations that take more than five hours but have direct flights from Fukuoka Airport include: Vietnam – 5 hours and 5 minutes (via Hanoi, with Vietnam Airlines) Singapore – 6 hours and 35 minutes (with Singapore Airlines) Malaysia – 6 hours and 35 minutes (via Kuala Lumpur, with Air Asia)
Whether you are going around Japan or flying to nearby countries, this Golden Week or whenever, remember to prepare, pack well, 9 and pack wisely. And always take care!
TEXT: Abbie
Philpott IMAGES: Nagasaki Wellness
Have you ever wanted to try Reiki healing, Shiatsu massage, or Kampo? Now you can with the help of Nagasaki Wellness, founded in 2019 by Dr Yoko as a Wellness tourism group that hopes to encourage more tourists to take advantage of the many health and beauty services offered in Nagasaki city. I got to chat with Dr Yoko, the director, who is also a qualified nurse and medical researcher. She very enthusiastically explained that while working in palliative care, in both Japan and Australia, she discovered that looking after a patient’s psychological, social, and spiritual needs was just as vital to a patient’s overall health, as looking after their physical needs. She wants more people to be able to access other types of care, in addition to usual medical care to fulfil all their wellness needs. Dr Yoko’s specialty is Reiki healing (靈氣), a type of energy healing that originated in Japan from Buddhist teachings, thousands of years ago. She first explained what to expect, then asked me a couple of questions so that she knew what areas to focus on. After letting me choose aroma oils and making sure I was comfortable, Dr Yoko got to work. She used her hands to help energy flow around my body, corrected any imbalances, and removed blockage. The Reiki healing treatment was very relaxing and was followed by an hour-long massage. There are three options; a whole-body Swedish or dry massage, both include a Reflexology massage with aroma oils, and a soft lymphatic drainage massage. Next, I got to experience a Shiatsu massage by Naoko Katayama, a chiropractor specializing in sports chiropractic and Shiatsu massage. Shiatsu (指圧), which means “finger pressure,” originated from traditional Chinese medicine and has since developed in Japan starting from the 14th century. Naoko-san’s treatments are very popular and her clientele includes V-Varen soccer players and foreign representatives. 10
Naoko-san used massage, assisted stretching, and joint mobilization to relax and realign my body. The Shiatsu was gentle, yet effective. After Naoko-san had finished one arm and shoulder, I could immediately feel the difference. The treated arm felt a lot lighter and more flexible than my other arm. After my Shiatsu massage, Naoko-san then gave me a unique Japanese foot massage, called Ashi Tsubo. Feeling fully relaxed and limber I then walked a short 10 minutes to KINKAN Kenkokan café, a Kampo pharmacy and café in one, where I would experience one more service offered by Nagasaki Wellness; sampling Kampo cuisine. Kampo is a type of herbal medicine developed in Japan 1500 years ago from traditional Chinese medicine. The café is owned by Dr Yamashita, a pharmacology researcher and Kampo pharmacist who has worked for Nagasaki University for over 20 years. Dr Yamashita marries her medical knowledge with Kampo principles to offer complementary medicine through food. She gave a simple and clear explanation of Kampo and then quickly started on her evaluation of my potential needs. She recommended which food and supplements would help me and which to avoid. After my consultation, Dr Yamashita then made a delicious lunch based on Kampo principles. She brought out a beautiful arrangement of local and organic seasonal ingredients that had been tailored to my personal needs. I ate delicious brown rice porridge, pickled vegetables, slowly simmered kabocha, and biwa tea jelly, washed down with homemade raw amazake. Everything was yummy and I enjoyed it guilt-free knowing it was good for me. I really enjoyed my experiences with Nagasaki Wellness. They were deeply relaxing, fun, and I learned a lot of new things about Japan and complementary medicine. Dr Yoko is passionate about creating a people-conscious service, so she carries out vigorous checks on the service providers wishing to join her group, including basic English ability. It instantly put me at ease to see how knowledgeable the therapists are, and they were always willing to answer my queries. As well as the services described above, Nagasaki Wellness also offers others, such as shochu tasting and tour packages for those with medical needs. Check out their website nagasaki-wellness.com for more information. I highly recommend it! 11
Away from the hustle and bustle of city life, nestled between mountains, lies the small town of Hasami. Residents enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of Nagasaki’s only landlocked town. Tourists are drawn to the cute cafes, relaxing onsen, and most of all, the prominent and historic pottery industry. The pottery produced in Hasami is called Hasamiyaki (波佐見焼), or Hasami ware. Items from here are known for their high quality, practical nature, and reasonable prices. This reputation dates back to the beginnings of Hasamiyaki, about 400 years ago, when production was focused on making items for the average citizen’s daily use. Many of these pieces were sold at affordable prices compared to porcelain pottery from neighbouring towns. In other words, it was pottery for the people. Even today, the Hasami junior high and elementary schools use Hasamiyaki bowls and plates for their school lunch! Hasamiyaki doesn’t have one uniform look, though it is always unified in its material: porcelain. The porcelain is white, whereas clay is often a terracotta brown or gray. Many also say that porcelain is more difficult to work with than other clays. The material is common to other pottery styles from nearby towns, such as Imari or Arita (both in the neighboring Saga Prefecture). There are some popular traits in Hasamiyaki, although they by no means define the style overall: stackable items (especially mugs) and paintings drawn in indigo. Historically, Hasamiyaki was produced in several climbing kilns (登り窯) around town. These kilns were made by digging a hole into the hillside, and the kiln “climbs” up the hill. Although they are no longer in use today, a few remain standing
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throughout the town. The most well-known may be the remains of the Nakao Climbing Kiln (中尾上登窯跡), which is the world’s second-largest climbing kiln. It is 160-meters long and overlooks the historic pottery district of Nakaoyama. A little more centrally-located is Hasami Ceramics Park, or Yakimono Park (やき もの公園). Akin to an open-air museum, it features recreations of 12 kilns from around the world. Nearby is the Hasami Tourist Exchange Center, which houses a small exhibition about the history of pottery, as well as a sizable shop of Hasamiyaki from myriad local artists and companies. Another great chance to pick up some Hasamiyaki is at the 62nd annual Hasami Ceramics Festival (波佐見陶器まつり), which is quickly approaching during Golden Week (April 29 to May 5). The festival is mainly held at Yakimono Park, with a smaller setup at the Hasami-Arita Interchange. In total, over 100 vendors come together and sell their work, often marked down as much as 30% to 40% from the original price. Such steep discounts attract people from around the region, with attendance exceeding 300,000 visitors for the past two years. Although Hasami is accessible by bus, it’s easiest to get to by car. There is limited parking at the event so it is best to carpool and arrive early. TEXT: Deidre Foley IMAGES: Hasami Town Tourist Info
Yakimono Park (やきもの公園): 2255-2 Isekigo, Hasami, Higashisonogi District, Nagasaki 859-3711
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It’s quiet in the hall
while soft light streams in through the ceiling-high windows. Periodically I can hear a cough, someone mumbling to themselves, or the deep clink of ceramics. In front of me is a gorgeous collection of 32 pieces on a black and white checkered board. I’m playing in my first chess tournament, the 2nd Annual Arita Porcelain Park Chess Taikai. My opponent picks up a marble white pawn and puts it down two squares up the board.
E4! The game is on. 14
TEXT + IMAGES:
Flipi Poggenpoel Coming back from South Africa in January 2019, my luggage contained a large, heavy, wooden chess set which my aunt and uncle brought back from Tanzania many years ago. I had always found the game slightly alluring, but only upon setting up the board in my Omura City apartment did the time and place combine to let my interest bloom. In January 2020 I finally had the chance to attend an over-theboard competition in Japan. There were many surprises in store for me that day, not the least of which was a new appreciation for good ceramic craftsmanship. The tournament was hosted in Arita, inside the somewhat out of place Zwinger Palace. Built in a European style, the palace towers over the back end of the Arita Porcelain Park. It’s hard to miss, and likely all visitors walk across its moat, through the entry arch and out into the gardens and field behind. I had done this very same walk myself, but previously I had no real idea what was taking place inside the building. As it turned out, the Zwinger Palace is an art gallery that most frequently displays pieces of ceramic craftsmanship from the local artisans and continues the legacy of a strong export brand from just over our prefecture’s border. Arita porcelain was well-known in earlier days, exported as a highly sought-after product by Europeans
and other customers with the money to buy it. Over the years it has seeped into many overseas markets, as a good friend of mine found while visiting Taiwan recently. Sitting in a cafe, her drink was served in a vessel with smooth lines, consistent texture, and a warm, unassuming color. To her delight, she found that the piece was, in fact, an Arita export. As a former ALT from Arita, this seems to have been a fated reunion for her. As I sit and write this, I unconsciously eye my own cup. I may not know much about the making of Arita Touki (pottery) yet, but I can fully appreciate how a great set of ceramic ware, my personal preferences being mugs, can add warmth to any moment of the day. On the day of our tournament, we had 9 boards, with 18 uniquely inspired designs. For those interested in the Arita Porcelain Park, I highly recommend a visit. There is a shop with other local produce as well, from sake to snacks, and a buffet lunch restaurant that I plan to go eat at again really soon. More information can be found at their official website (www. arita-touki.com). The ceramic chess sets we played with were the work of Chess Jewel (チェジェル) which you can look up at chejewel.com. If you’re interested in playing chess yourself, then I’d recommend reaching out to the Nagasaki or Imari chess clubs: imari-chess.jimdofree.com higashiyamate-chikyukan.com 15
Hasami. Arita. Places in Nagasaki and Saga that are synonymous to pottery. But there is another place in Nagasaki that is home to a unique pottery tradition. It might be less popular, but there’s a good reason as to why.
MIKAWACHI POTTERY: a League of its own Welcome to Mikawachi. Mikawachi prides itself on producing exquisite handmade and hand painted porcelain ware, which means that each piece is unique. Pottery artists create skillful detail and shading using a cobalt blue pigment called gosu. The result is a very artistic yet naturalistic image. Mikawachi is also famous for openwork carving, an intricate technique where parts of the surface are carved to create a pattern. Hand-forming is also used to create nature motifs like dragons, animals, and plants. Moreover, for a long time, Mikawachi potters have used hamazen, a porcelain base that secures the ware, preventing it from being distorted during baking. A hamazen is used only once, only for one product, and is discarded during a ritual at a ‘pottery shrine,’ or Toso Jinja. The craftsmanship and the exclusivity make Mikawachi pottery special — and more expensive. You can be sure you will own a piece that does not look like any other and was made to be distinct. According to Mr. Mitsuo Tanaka, chairperson of Saru No Ashiato, a 16
pottery gallery in Mikawachi, this distinction dates back as far as the Edo Period. It was during this time when the technique and tradition was passed down by Hirado potters to those in Mikawachi, in an effort to create a more geographically convenient center for trading these products. Since then, Mikawachi pottery has been a symbol of elegance and distinction as it was also used as a gift to lords, generals, and other high ranking people in and out of Japan. This prompted potters to compete for quality so that their creations could be chosen as gifts. The result of this pursuit for quality is a long standing tradition that Mikawachi keeps to this day. Annually, Mikawachi holds the Hamazen Festival, where there is a sale and exhibit of these exquisite pottery, but you can visit the kilns anytime of the year. What’s more unique about the experience is that you can talk with the kiln owners and also find pottery that matches your personality.
Mikawachi pottery is indeed in a league of its own.
TEXT: Masafumi Kanda ADDITIONAL TEXT: Emmanuel Felicianot
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TEXT: Will Morgan, Dan Cohen
Spring, the season of change in Japan, is here. Known for new beginnings, cherry blossoms, and Golden Week, this is a great time to travel and see the sights. This year, however, the hearts and minds of everyone in Japan (and around the world) are gripped by something even more novel. From news programs to water cooler convos, 新型コロナウイルス (shingata korona uirusu - Coronavirus / COVID-t19) is the only thing people are talking about. Let us help you stay in the conversation.
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First, here are some words you may see or hear regarding the spread of the virus. 感染者 (kansensha) - a person diagnosed with any virus. Add 数 (sū - the kanji for number) to the end to get the word for the number of infected people. 感染状況 (kansen jōkyō) - the situation regarding the spread of the virus. 拡大 (kakudai) - to grow or spread, often used to refer to the spread of the virus. 検査 (kensa) - exam or test. In this context, it means testing for the virus. クラスター (kurasutā) - cluster. A newly popular loanword referring to groups of people with the virus.
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Closures are becoming more common by the day. In Japanese, the word “closure” can depend on the noun to which it’s referring. Heisa (閉鎖) is the generic term for “closure,” but you’re much more likely to see these formations: 休校 (kyūkō) - school closure. 休園 (kyūen) - park closure, like Disneyland or kindergarten (幼稚園 yōchien) 休業 (kyūgyō) - business closure. 休館 (kyūkan) - museum, library, or embassy closure. Did you notice the pattern? 休 (kyū), meaning “to rest” is followed by the defining character of what’s closing. 校 is the crux of school, 園 for park, and so on.
We hope these words will be useful to you in conversations and watching the news. Until this global crisis passes, be prepared for repeated 延期 (enki - delays), 中止 (chūshi cancellations), and possibly even テレワーク (terewāku - telework). Remember to 手を洗って (te wo aratte - wash your hands), and 顔を触るな！(kao wo sawaru na! Don’touch your face!)
