Technical file

Tech Pack Look 2 Jacket

Look 2 Jacket STYLE CODE: NKL2J

SEASON: Spring Summer 2016

STYLE NAME:

Cream jacket with peach 3D square beading

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 15th May 2015

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s Wear

Invisible open-ended cream zip Panels attached separately and hand tacked on to main body

Panel finished by its own facing and then hand tacked to reduce bulk Cream panel that is the facing of the peach embroidered area.

Panel finished by its own facing and then hand tacked to reduce bulk

3D beading on peach silk satin fused with cotton drill.

3D beading on peach silk satin fused with cotton drill.

Waist ban attached into the CF.

Panel folded and hand tacked to stay in place.

Front Cream panel that is the facing of the peach embroidered area.

Panel folded and blid hand stitched for the panel to stay in place.

Back Cream panel that is the facing folded to continue into become a waist band attach in center front

Look 2 Jacket STYLE CODE: NKL2J

SEASON: Spring Summer 2016

STYLE NAME:

Cream jacket with peach 3D embroidery

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 15th May 2015

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s Wear

Cream silk satin fused with cotton drill.

Peach pipe and small bead

Front Small cream beads

Back 3D beading on peach silk satin fused with cotton drill.

Look 2 Jacket

Order of assembly

STYLE CODE: NKL2J

SEASON: Spring Summer 2016

STYLE NAME:

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

Front

1 2 3 4

5 6

Cream jacket with peach 3D square beading

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 15th May 2015

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s Wear

Back

Order Of Assembly-

Seams

Machinery-

Stitch on the marked darts on the inner layer in cream silk satin as will as its facing.

Attche the side seams and shoulder seams for front and back bodices.

Repeat the same for the facing panel inside.

Attach from shoulder seam the raised shoulder panels. Front and back, do the same for its facing.

Regular Seam Allowance)

Lockstich Machine

Regular Seam ( 1cm Seam Allowance)

Lockstich Machine

Regular Seam ( 1cm Seam Allowance) Regular Seam ( 1cm Seam Allowance)

Lockstich Machine Lockstich Machine

Attach the facing to the shoulder panel lay- Regular Seam ( 1cm Seam Allowance) ers and bag it out.

Lockstich Machine

Attach the panes along the neckline togeth- Regular Seam ( 0.5 cm Seam Allowance) er front and back.

Lockstich Machine

Look 2 Jacket

Order of assembly

STYLE CODE: NKL2J

SEASON: Spring Summer 2016

STYLE NAME:

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

Front

7 8

9 10 11

Cream jacket with peach 3D square beading

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 15th May 2015

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s Wear

Back

Order Of Assembly-

Seams

Machinery-

Blind hand stitch these panels on to the jacket shell towards the CF. (Front) Attach the peach embroidered panels to its cream facing leaving only the side seam free.

Bag them out and stitch them while matching the notches on the neckline Hand stitch the marked center area on the main cream jacket shell on the front

Blind Stitch

Hand Stitch.

Regular Seam ( 1cm Seam Allowance)

Lockstich Machine

Regular Seam ( 0.5cm Seam Allowance)

Lockstich Machine

Blind Stitch

Hand stitch.

(Back) Attach the peach embroidered panel Regular Seam ( 1cm Seam Allowance) to its cream facing still the marked notched as seen in pattern.

Lockstich Machine

Look 2 Jacket

Order of assembly

STYLE CODE: NKL2J

SEASON: Spring Summer 2016

STYLE NAME:

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

Front

12 13 14

15 16

Cream jacket with peach 3D square beading

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 15th May 2015

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s Wear

Back

Order Of Assembly-

Seams

Machinery-

Attach both these back panels, leave a little space bag out then hand stitch gap.

Regular Seam ( 1 cm Seam Allowance)

Lockstich Machine

Bag them out and stitch them while making Regular Seam ( 0.5 cm Seam Allowance) the notches on the back Now stitch together the side seams of these Regular Seam ( 1 cm Seam Allowance) panels, stitch a small area to bag out and then had stitch the facing area.

Attach invisible open-ended zip at the Regular Seam ( 1 cm Seam Allowance) center front.

Blind stitch Hand tack the areas that are folded into position with blind hemming.

Lockstich Machine Lockstich Machine

Lockstich Machine Hand stitch

Look 2 Jacket

Order of assembly

STYLE CODE: NKL2J

SEASON: Spring Summer 2016

STYLE NAME:

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

Front

Cream jacket with peach 3D square beading

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 15th May 2015

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s Wear

Back

Order Of Assembly-

Seams

Machinery-

17

Stitch facing to the neckline, armholes, CF and waist line.

Regular Seam ( 1 cm Seam Allowance)

Lockstich Machine

18

Bag out and blind hand stitch to finish the garment.

Blind stitch

Hand stitch

Look 2 Jacket

Production sheet

STYLE CODE: NKLDNY1

SEASON: Pre- Fall 2015

STYLE NAME: Denim chiffon waist cutout dress

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 12th June 2014

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s

FABRIC SWATCHES:

FABRIC INFORMATION:

TRIMS/ FINISHINGS:

FABRIC A: Cream Silk Satin Quality code: Fibre Composition: Silk Colour Shade: SAT122W Width: 140 cm Weight: Heavy Weight Supplier: Henry Bertrand

Threads: Interlining: Fastenings:

FABRIC B: Quality code: Fibre Composition: Colour Shade: Width: Weight: Supplier:

Peach Silk Satin Silk Stone 140cm Light weight Henry Bertrand

Trims/Other: Size Label: Back neck label: Trimming Samples

Cream- 180 , Peach- 180 Fused with light cotton drill YKK coil invisible Zip open-ended Cream coil and tape Peach pipe beads & small peach Beads 12 NK

Look 2 Jacket

Size Specification Sheet

STYLE CODE: NKLDNY1

SEASON: Pre- Fall 2015

STYLE NAME: Denim chiffon waist cut-out dress

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 12th June 2014

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s

SIZE SPECIFICATION Q

P W

T

R

N

L’

U

V

K’

R

M’ N’

I’

U’

J’ V’

W’

O L

M D

E J

F A

S

C

H’

F’

G’

E’

I K

B

A’

C’

MEASUREMENT POSITION GUIDE A to B= 36cm B to C= 18cm S to C= 7cm K to B= 7cm A to F= 7cm B to I= 7cm F to J= 18cm J to I= 18cm J to C= 5cm N to C= 30cm

N to P= 14.5cm N to O= 14cm N to T= 6.5cm P to W= 13.5cm P to R= 12cm T to L= 29cm L to E= 8cm O to U= 31cm I’ to J’= 6cm A’ to B’ = 36cm

A’ to C’= 14cm D’ to B’= 14cm H’ to G’= 8cm L’ to K’= 13.5cm K’ to V’= 18cm L’ to I’= 10cm M’ to N’= 13.5cm M’ to U= 12cm V’ to W’= 26cm F’ to E’= 8cm

D’

B’

Look 2 Jacket

Costing Sheet))))

STYLE CODE: NKLDNY1

SEASON: Pre- Fall 2015

STYLE NAME: Denim chiffon waist cut-out dress

PATTERN CUTTER: Nayana

DATE: 12th June 2014

SAMPLE ENCLOSED: Yes

FACTORY:

SAMPLE SIZE: 12

SIZE RANGE: 6, 8, 10, 12, 14

MEN’S/WOMEN’S WEAR: Women’s

COSTING SHEET ITEM

QUANTITY

1) Cream Silk Satin (Price per Meter- £ 30)

1 meter

30

2) Peach Silk Satin (Price per Meter- £ 15)

1 meter

15

3) Cotton drill (Price per Meter- £ 7)

2 meters

14

4) Bonderweb( Price per meter £3)

2 meters

6

5) Thread (cream and peach per reel cost- £ 2)

2

4

6) Beads Cost per 2O0grams - £ 7

400 grams

7) Embroidery cost 8) Production Tolal Production Cost Selling Price (Production Cost X 3) Final Price

COST (£)

14 100 100 £283 £283X3 £849

Outsourcing Management Document Look 2 Jacket

In person Conversation with Mrs Preeti Kodesia(Managing director of Shades) and Maksood ( head artisan) Date: 8th April 2015 Nayana: For the look 2 Jacket I want for it to be one of my statement pieces thus I want for it to be highly embellished. I want to incorporate the beading in the folded panel for it to enhance the 3D element beading aspect. I was thinking of using the square 3D sample for it. The panel is going to be in peach and the rest of the jacket is in cream. Which beads do you recommend that we use on this garment?

Nayana: Yes I agree, I will mark the area that needs to be embroidered on the ‘Khakha’. The front is almost full and we have it in the middle section of the back. Since the beading comes under the arm would it be possible for the beading to be flatter in those areas?

Preeti: Since it has to be pipes I fell we should go with the peach pipes itself with the small peach bead. The tone on tone effect should look nice.

Nayana: What if we keep a loose thread throughout so that the squares are not rigid and upright. The loose thread will make them flexible and not hurt the wearer’s skin.

Preeti: It could be difficult to make it flat from 3D.

Preeti: Yes that is a good idea we can surely do that.

.

Product Evaluation- The jacket is meant to be a statement piece of my collection. It is highly embellished on peach panel in the front as well as back. The bulking of the fused satin fabric was a prominent problem while constructing this jacket and It made me constantly change my self to find a solution for it. I really the multiple lays of different panels were to be all attached to the jackets neck like and Center Front. These panels were to be then finished my bagging out the facing of the entire jacket.

During the process of construction it was realised that the layers add up to being as much as 6 thick as layers which would have not given a clean finish when bagged. Thus I decided to finish the shoulder panels by facing the while panel by itself and applying blind hand stitch to hold the panels in place.

The significantly reduced the bulk and allowed me to finish the other layers by the original facing. This also allowed be to apply my invisible zip with ease . Overall even though the finish if not perfect an d I was not able to resolve the bulking completely the garment fits well on the body and has a luxurious feel to it.