Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q4 2020

AFRICA

Quarter 4 2020 | Volume 5

www.pharmacos.co.za

Redefining African hair and skin care

HOME CARE

DISINFECTION DONE RIGHT!

PERSONAL CARE IN PURSUIT OF NATURAL PERFECTION

LABELLING

SIMPLIFY CODE READING AND INSPECTION

WITH NATURAL AND

SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS

2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise

P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry.

The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.

Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa.

• Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021.

review Pharmaceutical & & Cosmetic

All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.

Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021.

For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.

2

QUARTER 3 2020 // P&C AFRICA

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AFRICA Quarter 4 2020 | Volume 5 | 03

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PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS 6 NEWS

26 HOME CARE

Actizone – for disinfection that lasts

Symrise to acquire Sensient’s fragrances business unit

Home care fragrance trends

Iberchem to join the Croda family

Nigeria Society of Cosmetic Chemists becomes 50th IFSCC member

10 ETHNIC CARE

Silicones offer clean and safe beauty for all

BASF explores rebalancing of African skin

The beauty of natural cosmetic waxes

29 LABELLING

Omron simplifies code reading and inspection

Achieve more with NFC tags and RFID chips

31 P HARMA FOCUS: PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

New OSD customer centre for Syntegon

Zuplex Botanicals partners with the people of Dakeni

18 PERSONAL CARE

Achieve double the emollience with half the emollients

In pursuit of natural perfection

Hair protection with HydroxyShield polymer

he sustainability benefits of Merck’s T functional fillers

Kao launches eco-friendly formulation kits

28

DISINFECTION DONE RIGHT

10

THINK SILICONES,

THINK CLEAN AND SAFE BEAUTY FOR ALL Silicones are effective, inert and versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in numerous ways

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 3 2020

3

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Redefining our ‘why’

T

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Naresh Budraj Sub-editor: Katrien Smit Contributors: Helen Playdon, Karen Maier, Adam Owen, Jessica Busa, Jacques Strydom ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za

o say it’s been a challenging year is

orange wax and a stunning hair milk formulation

an understatement. COVID-19 has

to inspire new product development. Merck shares

devastated worldwide economies and

insights into the sustainability benefits

placed immense pressure on the world’s

of its RonaFlair Functional Fillers portfolio and

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za

healthcare systems. Fatality numbers keep on

how these fillers can be combined to form

rising – keeping people from their loved ones

effective substitutes for plastic-based or

INTERNATIONAL SALES

and employees working from home for extended

microplastic-type fillers in cosmetic formulations.

periods. And it continues to have devastating socio-

Look out for this and other sustainability-focused

economic costs.

articles in this edition.

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

Yet among the tragedy and devastation, we are

In line with the COVID-19 theme, Solvay’s

seeing immense bravery and sheer innovation as

Actizone disinfectant technology presents a real

businesses and individuals do all

breakthrough in the hygiene market. According to

they can to adapt their strategies during these

Solvay, this disinfectant cleaner not only provides

difficult times.

99.9% germ kill, but also continues to be active on

According to DeSantis Breindel, a B2B branding and marketing agency based in New York, during the pandemic, brand purpose has become more

surfaces for 24 hours, even after multiple events of erosion and recontamination of the surface.

With this unprecedented year finally coming to

important than ever. Brands have had to redefine

end – it’s only fitting to wish our advertisers and

their missions, craft uplifting messages, and

readers well for the festive season. Thank you, from

demonstrate how they make a positive difference in

the team and me, for your continued support. We

their communities. It’s critical that brands continue

hope you have a good holiday, prosperous New Year,

to embrace these values long after the pandemic is

and continue to stay safe.

over – because the bar has truly been raised.

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

At P&C Review Africa, we’ve also raised the bar by refreshing our brand, redesigning the magazine and redefining our purpose as the

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

Enjoy the read!

go-to trade publication for the personal care and pharmaceutical manufacturing industries in Africa.

We hope you love our new look as much as we do – let us know by sending an email with your feedback to abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za.

We’ve got lots of informative content in

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd. MANAGEMENT TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

store for you, in our last edition for 2020. IMCD,

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

in conjunction with Grant Industries, explores

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

silicones as ideal clean beauty ingredients in skin and hair care formulations. KahlWax, represented

by Savannah Fine Chemicals, introduces its new

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 www.newmedia.co.za

AECI Specialty Chemicals..............................23....................... www.aeciworld.com Botanichem .....................................................17........................ www.zuplex.co.za Chempack Industries......................................20....................... www.cpack.co.za CIM Chemicals ................................................25....................... www.cim.co.za CJP Chemicals.................................................5.......................... www.cjpchemicals.co.za IMCD SA ............................................................OFC.................... www.imcdgroup.com o6 Agencies SA................................................28....................... www.o6southafrica.com Omron Electronics............................................29....................... www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................15........................ www.savannah.co.za Siyakha Imperial Printing Co...........................30....................... www.labelprint.co.za The Care Co......................................................21........................ www.careco.co.za

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

Copyright: all rights reserved.

4

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

Unlocking potential, innovation and excellence on the African continent CJP Chemicals, established in 1986, is a leading stockist and distributor of both speciality and commodity raw chemicals to a variety of industries. With sales offices and warehouses in all four major business districts of South Africa, namely Johannesburg (HQ), Durban, Cape Town & Port Elizabeth, CJP Chemicals has the capacity to supply a diverse range of products. Together with our strong and long standing partnerships with both international and local producers, CJP Chemicals has the reach to source, procure and deliver commercial, technical and logistical solutions to all our customers.

Our Personal Care division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients that deliver ease-of-use technical performance and efficacy to our customers’ formulations.

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anti Ageing Agents Anti Bacteria Anti caking Anti Fungal Bulking Agent Butters Carbomers Carrier Oils Conditioning Agents Emolients Emulsifier Essential oils Excipents Exfoliating Agents Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols Fillers Fragrances Gelling Agents Glycols Humectants Matting Agents Moisturising Agents Peeling Granules Petrolatum Polymers Polysorbates Preservatives Sebum Regulator Silicones Skin Whiteners Soaps Solubilzer UV Filters Surfactants Thio-Compounds Vegetable Oils Waxes White Mineral Oils

Tel: 011-494-6700 Email: nataliem@cjpchemicals.co.za Web: www.cjpchemicals.co.za

NEWS

In-cosmetics Global 2021 show moved to October REED EXHIBITIONS, THE organiser of the leading

and key stakeholders, we recognise that in order

face-to-face event with combined virtual solutions

global event for the personal care industry, has

to hold an international event there needs to be

in October.”

announced the new dates for the 2021 event.

more time to allow for the reopening of borders

In-cosmetics Global will now take place in Fira

Reed Exhibitions current priority is keeping

and lifting of travel restrictions. It is clear that the

the industry connected during this time, fostering

Barcelona, from 5 to 7 October 2021, moving the

industry needs to meet in person later in 2021.

collaboration, promoting new innovative solutions

show from the original April dates.

Large-scale events are subject to ever-changing

and helping to nurture critical business contacts,

national and local guidelines and regulations. Our

so watch this space for an in-cosmetics virtual

priority is to deliver an engaging and COVID-secure

experience coming in April 2021. •

Roziani Zulkifli, exhibition director at Reed Exhibitions, said: “After consulting with exhibitors

Iberchem to join the Croda family

made possible by this acquisition. Iberchem will remain an independent entity with extensive support from Croda, continuing to serve its customers while collaborating with Croda teams on cross selling and other revenue synergy opportunities.

“We are pleased to join the Croda family and therefore strengthen our business offering,” says Ramón Fernández, CEO of Iberchem. “Not only are Croda and Iberchem’s activities complementary, but also both companies have grown and expanded their activities on a similar vision and core values. The preservation of the Iberchem identity, the reason why our customers place their trust in us on a daily basis, was of paramount importance for the management

The preservation of the Iberchem identity remains of paramount importance for the management team

team, and we are pleased how understanding Croda has been on this aspect. We are delighted to embark on this exciting new adventure.”

Steve Foots, CEO of Croda, comments: “We have known the Iberchem Group’s

CRODA INTERNATIONAL (CRODA), a speciality chemicals company, has agreed

senior team and their business for many years. This fabulous organisation

to acquire Iberchem, a leading global fragrances and flavours company which

stands out from its peers with its strong exposure to emerging markets,

is headquartered in Spain, for a total consideration of €820m on a debt-free,

extensive portfolio of F&F products well placed to adapt to sustainability

cash-free basis. Iberchem has been majority owned by French investment firm,

trends, strong R&D capability and its consistent track record of year-on-year

Eurazeo since 2017.

growth over the last decade. By bringing our businesses together, we are

The complementary operations of the two companies, combined with an

creating a new, full-service offering to our customers in consumer care markets

ambitious growth synergy programme, is set to create additional value for

and a compelling platform from which to grow the combined business in the

customers. Many customers require both ingredients and fragrances and can

years ahead. We look forward to welcoming our new colleagues to Croda and

expect to benefit from collaborative thinking and full formulation development

leveraging our respective networks and expertise.” •

Achieve luminous colour with Ronastar Yellow Allure MERCK, A LEADING science and technology

Ronastar Yellow Allure can be used for matching

cosmetics and personal care applications. It is ideal

company, recently introduced Ronastar Yellow

all kinds of skin tones. It also supports a healthy

for all skin tones and for cosmetics, face powders,

Allure. The pigment creates an elegant yellowish

and natural glow, meeting market needs,” says

natural eyeshadows, setting powders and more,

matte effect and luminous colour. With its superb

Dagmar Kleefeld, global marketing manager for

particularly for facial cosmetics that enable a

performance, it provides a light-weight texture and

effect solutions at Merck. “And as a single pigment,

luminous complexion. This pigment complements

a marvellous velvety skin feel – enabled by the use

with Ronastar Yellow Allure elegant natural colour

the Ronastar Allure portfolio, which consists of the

of a sophisticated patented coating technology.

tones with subtle radiance can be created.”

three mass tone pigments: Ronastar Black Allure;

“Together with the other Allure pigments,

Ronastar Yellow Allure can be used in all colour

Ronastar Red Allure and Ronastar White Allure. •

6

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

NEWS

Symrise to acquire Sensient’s fragrances business unit SYMRISE HAS SIGNED a purchase agreement with

investments in the manufacturing site in Granada

portfolio. We are convinced that we will once

Sensient Technologies Corporation (Milwaukee,

which will be acquired.

more fully deliver on our strategic priorities with

USA) to acquire its fragrance and aroma chemicals

“We constantly screen strategic opportunities

this acquisition. We drive growth while at the

activities, which consist of a wide range of aroma

in continuation of our ambitions in certain growth

same time strengthen our leadership position in

molecules and fragrances from natural and

segments and make bold steps in challenging

fragrance ingredients and green chemistry,” says

renewable sources.

times. With Sensient’s activities, Symrise is

Dr Heinz-Jürgen Bertram, CEO of Symrise.

During fiscal year 2019, Sensient’s

expanding its range of fragrance ingredients and

The Sensient fragrances and aroma chemicals

fragrances business unit generated revenues of

will boost its competitiveness in the creation of

business unit has been part of Sensient’s Flavors

approximately €77 million.

fragrance compositions. In view of the increasing

& Extracts group. The unit holds longstanding

importance of natural and renewable raw

business relationships with local, regional and

its backward integration and broaden its

materials for the fragrance industry, the new

global customers from the consumer goods

leadership position as a supplier of fragrance

product range ideally complements our current

industry. It supplies out of manufacturing sites in

With the acquisition, Symrise will strengthen

ingredients which are

Spain and Mexico. The Sensient aroma

increasingly demanded

molecules and fragrance solutions are

for use, especially in

mainly derived from renewable raw

personal and home care

materials such as pine oil and citrus by-

products. Symrise will

products amongst others.

furthermore gain access

At the site in Granada, Symrise plans

to additional customers

to combine the R&D competencies and

and strengthen its

manufacturing capacities of Sensient’s

presence in EAME

fragrance and aroma chemicals activities

and Latin America

with parts of its own activities. Over

in particular. Going

a period of three years, targeted

forward, Symrise also

investments will be made to expand the

plans to strengthen its

Granada site and make it the second

manufacturing footprint

largest compounding facility in EAME for

in Spain with targeted

fragrance ingredients and compounds. •

Innovative AI-augmented laundry care fragrances

FIRMENICH HAS INTRODUCED the industry’s first laundry care fragrances that fuse AI with human creativity. Presented at a customer Sensorium in Hangzhou, China, during the China Cleaning Industry Association conference, the AI-augmented perfumer fragrances deliver breakthrough innovation for a wide range of laundry opportunities, including liquid detergents, fabric sprays and powder detergents.Ilaria Resta, president, global perfumery, comments: “Firmenich is reinventing fragrance design. Artificial intelligence, or AI, is now systematically empowering our perfumers to achieve their very best creations by identifying potential solutions across a complex combination of parameters, including olfaction, format, dosage, safety and sustainability.”

Odile Pelissier, senior vice president, creation and development, global perfumery, adds: “Firmenich is using AI in augmented creation, prediction and optimisation to provide bespoke sensorial experiences faster and more efficiently than ever before.”

A key milestone in the digital transformation of the global fragrance

and taste company, the laundry fragrances reveal a new paradigm for customers to create tailored fragrances. By using AI to generate exciting prototypes, perfumers interact with the technology, accelerate speed to market and create fragrances that suit the nuances of each category and market, to deliver an appropriate emotional experience for each consumer.

The six AI-augmented perfumer fragrances for laundry care include: • Liquid detergent: A modern freshness inspired by body care fragrances with yuzu, a popular Chinese ingredient, and a second fruity and flowery feminine sensorial concept currently fashionable in China.

• Fabric spray: A natural, sweet gourmand profile, proven popular in recent consumer research in China, as well as the same fruity and flowery liquid detergent scent adapted to a spray format.

• Powder detergent: Technical freshness and performance with sparkling, zesty China citrus and a second citrus cologne scent concept. •

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

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NEWS

Nigeria Society of Cosmetic Chemists th becomes 50 IFSCC member THE INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION of

contributions of many, it is an honour

Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) is

to lead this pioneering effort as we work to

delighted to welcome the Society of Cosmetic

support the new burst of creativity and drive in

in charge when the newest society comes from

Scientists, Nigeria (NICOS) as its 50 th member

cosmetic science within Nigeria and the diaspora.”

Africa. It is a great sign of a positive globalisation

society. This follows the unanimous approval

NICOS is the third African Society to join

Cosmetic Chemists South Africa (Coschem).

Piras adds: “I feel extremely proud of being

for our organisation. I truly hope to meet the

of an application by NICOS at the IFSCC 2020

IFSCC. The others are the Société Centre et Ouest

members of the Nigerian Society of Cosmetic

Council Meeting held virtually on

Africaine de Cosmetologie (SCOAC)/Society

Chemists next year at the IFSCC Conference in

20 October.

of Central and West Africa and the Society of

Cancun, Mexico.” •

“Please join me in welcoming NICOS to the IFSCC,” says (then) president of the IFSCC, Emanuele Piras. “This is the result of extraordinary work driven mainly by our friend and colleague, Grace Abamba, who has devoted all her energy to making this happen.”

Inspired by the rapidly expanding Nigerian cosmetics market, founders Abamba (president, NICOS) and Olusola Ojo (vice president, NICOS) formally registered the society earlier this year.

Abamba comments: "NICOS is proud to become the 50 th member of the IFSCC. This milestone has been achieved at a turbulent time for Nigeria, but it is important to celebrate this as we hope for a brighter future. Personal care and beauty are really important to Nigerians and this is reflected in the growing value of the market. With the

Members of NICOS with Grace Abamba (president) pictured fifth from the left and Olusola Ojo (vice president) third from left

Johnson & Johnson looks to Aspen to manufacture investigational COVID-19 vaccine candidate ASPEN IS PLEASED to announce that one of its wholly-owned South African subsidiaries, Pharmacare Limited (which trades as Aspen Pharmacare), has entered into a preliminary agreement with Janssen Pharmaceuticals and Janssen Pharmaceutica NV, two of the Janssen Pharmaceutical Companies of Johnson & Johnson, for the technical transfer and proposed commercial manufacture of their COVID-19 vaccine candidate, Ad26.COV2-S. The vaccine candidate is currently undergoing clinical trials.

Aspen Pharmacare will perform formulation, filling and secondary packaging of the vaccine for supply to Johnson & Johnson. This agreement is still subject to the successful completion of the relevant technology transfer activities and finalisation of certain commercial manufacturing terms.

Aspen Pharmacare has agreed to provide the necessary capacity required for the manufacture of Johnson & Johnson’s COVID-19 vaccine candidate at its existing sterile facility in Port Elizabeth, South Africa.

Aspen has invested in excess of R3 billion in the facility together with the high technology equipment and systems that will be used to manufacture state-of-the-art sterile drugs and vaccines, packaged into vials, ampoules and pre-filled syringes. The production area where it is intended that the vaccine candidates will be manufactured has capacity to produce more than 300 million doses per annum. The facility has accreditation from a range of international regulatory authorities and provides lifesaving medicines to both the domestic and international markets. It was part of the first flagship investments

announced at the president’s inaugural South African Investment conference.

Stephen Saad, Aspen group chief executive, comments: “We have invested globally in our sterile capability and are determined to play a role in the manufacture of vaccines to add to our proud track record of making contributions to humanity in times of global pandemics. This has included, inter alia, being a leading global supplier for antiretrovirals for the treatment of HIV/AIDS, multi-drug-resistant-TB products and COVID-19-related treatments such as anaesthetics and dexamethasone. We have been selected as a vaccine partner by Johnson & Johnson and this project will receive priority focus. We are particularly pleased to be given the opportunity of providing assistance for patients in need across the world from our South African base.” •

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

9

ETHNIC CARE

Think silicones,

think clean and safe beauty for all There is growing consumer interest in clean beauty, and hair care is finally catching up to the trend. According to Grant Industries, silicones are ideal clean beauty ingredients. Along with their safety, enhanced performance of active ingredients, compatibility with other materials including naturals, and their unmatched sensory acceptance, silicones are extremely valuable and desired for cosmetic formulations.

I

n the hair care category, shampoo bars and other waterless products are growing in popularity because they reduce the use of plastic packaging and are lighter to ship,

reducing their environmental impact. Progress is also being made to reduce sulphates, synthetic fragrances and other non-essential ingredients in hair care product formulations.

Besides the basic cosmetic products, silicones are used extensively in OTC, baby care, medical applications and products for sensitive skin due to their non-irritating characteristics. Silicones are also not animal-derived and therefore approved by vegans as cruelty-free materials. They are not related to palm and RSPO issues and are

Table 1: Coconut co-wash 2-in-1 solid shampoo

Phase Ingredient INCI

% w/w

A AminoSensyl HC Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicyl Valinate Esylate 4.00%

Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter 3.30%

GransenseTC 21X/C Triheptanoin & Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) 3.50%

Polyurethane-100 Vegarol 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol 30.00%

Virgin Coconut Oil Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Seed Oil 5.00% B Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.20%

ProCondition 22 Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine 2.00%

Elfan AT84 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 32.00%

Amisoft LS-11(F) Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 20.00% 100.00%

This minimalistic yet luxurious 2-in-1 solid shampoo gently cleanses and conditions the hair in one step with a non-stripping creamy foam. GransenseTC 21X/C leaves the hair silky and soft while improving the creaminess of the foam

certified as GMO-free. The types of silicones used in cosmetic products are supported by scientific

care products. These elastomers support a wide

Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and)

research and are considered extremely safe for

range of free-from demands when it comes to

Polyurethane-100) – are low-polar translucent

consumer use. Silicones are effective, inert and

formulation design, including water-free, quat-free,

gels, vegetable alkane and ester fluids available in

versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in

paraben-free, mineral oil-free, sulphate-free,

medium to non-volatile options.

numerous ways.

GMO-free, petrolatum-free, PEG-free, TEA-free,

Ecocert-COSMOS-approved, these clean,

phthalate-free, gluten-free, and fragrance-free.

sustainable, transparent, versatile and formulator-

CLEAN HAIR CARE

They are also 100% naturally-derived, 100% bio-

friendly elastomers are compatible with many hair

In line with the clean hair care trend, Grant

based and 100% bio-degradable ingredients.

care ingredients, such as natural oils; waxes; fatty

Industries – represented by IMCD throughout

The Gransense elastomers – GransenseTC

alcohols; quats; anionic, cationic and non-ionic

Southern Africa – has launched two new, next-

18X/C (INCI: Coco Caprylate/Caprate (and)

surfactants; and commonly used preservatives.

generation Gransense elastomers, which allow

Triehptanoin (and) C9-C12 Alkane (and)

They are also heat stable and can be used in hot or

formulators to design clean and sustainable hair

Polyurethane-100), and GransenseTC 21X/C (INCI:

cold processes and in different cosmetic formats,

10

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

ETHNIC CARE

Table 2: Love my curves hair perfector leave-on cream

Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Water Water (Aqua) 64.40%

ProCondition 22 Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine 2.00% Glycerin USP Glycerin 1.00% B Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter 1.00%

GransenseTC 21X/C Triheptanoin & Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) 5.00%

Polyurethane-100 Vegarol 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00%

Citric Acid USP Citric Acid

0.30%

Solagum Tara Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum 0.30%

Argan Oil Argan Oil Virgin 2.00%

Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 2.00%

Vegelight1214 LC Coconut Alkanes/Coco-Caprylate Caprate 6.00%

Lexgard Natural Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl 1.00% 100.00%

Did you know?

The organic portion of Gransense elastomers may migrate to the surface of plastic packaging, behaving as a plasticiser altering the shape of the packaging as well as finished product performance. To avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to use glass packaging or co-extruded thick wall polyester, polyethylene terephthalate or phenolic-type plastics where applicable.

clean beauty standards – of course, we’re talking about silicones.

In skin care formulations, silicones offer a variety of benefits. As the name suggests, a texturiser can improve the texture of a formulation

When tested on textured hair tresses, the hair perfector leave-on cream leaves the hair silky and soft. The control is pictured on the left and the TC21X/leave-on on the right

by reducing the stickiness or tackiness of formulas with high oil loading, particularly relevant with SPF

The yeast (Saccharomyces) has been around

formulas. It can also reduce tack from carbomer

since ancient times and is used in winemaking,

gels; improve matte and soft focus/blur effects;

baking, brewing and as a nutritional supplement.

impart a soft, velvety afterfeel; reduce drag or

Grant Industries also uses this yeast in a bioreactor

improve slip, and reduce drying time.

production facility for the fermentation of Granpowder BBP-700, using sugars (i.e. glucose), which clearly fits the sustainable supply chain

including liquids, emulsions, anhydrous, solids and dispersions.

Multiple effects are possible with the Gransense elastomers, such as moisturising and repairing sensations, a soft and smooth afterfeel, and matte or shine effects.

They also meet the increasing demand for natural formulations. See Tables 1 and 2 for inspiring formulation examples of both a solid

Silicones are effective, inert and versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in numerous ways

Polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) as an energy source, providing many of the benefits of Granpowder BBP700 along with its natural credentials.

The Lauroyl Lysine (amino acid derivative), which is produced from feedstock using a biobased process, is well-known to give excellent sensory properties. It can also improve the water resistance/long wear properties of formulations, and it has a flat, crystalline structure and limited

and cream format, which incorporate the Gransense elastomers.

model demanded by customers. The yeast creates

Granpowder BBP-700 (INCI: Saccharomyces

soft focus effects. Its spherical shape gives great

Ferment (and) Lauroyl Lysine), is a 100% naturally-

soft focus effects while it is classified outside of the

CLEAN SKIN CARE

derived, bio-based powder consisting of a fused

ECHA microplastic definition, and is bio-based and

Imagine there is an inert, non-reactive ingredient

fermentation and amino acid derivative composite.

bio-degradable.

to aid in the aesthetics of formulas by providing

It is GMO-free, COSMOS-approved, ECHA-

incredible sensorial aspects without irritating the

compliant and has proven biodegradability via

improvement to skin and body care products, colour

skin. This ingredient is also safe and complies with

ISO standards.

cosmetics and sun care formulations with a cost-

Granpowder BBP-700 provides sensory

effective low-use level between 1% and 5%. It has particle size average of 2um to 10um.

In sun care applications, Granpowder BBP-700 can remove the greasy feel from organic UV filters, and in anti-ageing products it offers soft focus properties. The powder complements naturallyderived Gransense elastomer technologies and it is suggested the two be used together in formulations for optimal performance. •

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com Grant Industries – www.grantinc.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

11

ETHNIC CARE

Rebalancing African skin Developing customised personal care products for African skin is part of BASF’s overall strategy to offer consumer-oriented solutions to the sub-Saharan African beauty industry. We spoke to Dr Torsten Clarius, business development active ingredients, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition, about Bix’Activ – a sebumregulating active ingredient proven effective on dark skin.

H

OW IS THE PERSONAL CARE MARKET

to their specific skin needs – and that they are

IN AFRICA DEVELOPING?

willing and able to pay for it.

Dr Clarius: While the global beauty and

Nevertheless, it is important to note that

care market is dynamic as a whole, this

black consumers around the world often feel

Dr Torsten Clarius says there is a demand for customised solutions for dark skin types

WHAT IS BASF’S SOLUTION?

is especially true of Africa. The demand for personal

underrepresented by cosmetic brands, leading to

Dr Clarius: BASF offers several active ingredients

care products is increasing rapidly in this part of

the demand for customised solutions for their

that target oily skin. However, we recently

the world. This development is driven by several

skin types.

developed an active ingredient called Bix’Activ,

factors, not least of which a growing middle class with access to higher disposable incomes.

It is essential that sebum-regulating actives do not impact the skin’s natural hydration balance

WHAT CONSTITUTES AFRICAN SKIN?

which demonstrates outstanding efficiency. In clinical studies on Asian volunteers, we could

Dr Clarius: By way of example, African consumers

prove that just 0.25% Bix’Activ reduced sebum

are generally much less susceptible to developing

secretion by 46% after four weeks. This effect was

wrinkles than Caucasians. This is likely due to the

more pronounced after eight weeks of application,

higher amount of melanin in the epidermis, which

leading to a 62% reduction. These results far

offers the dermal structures better protection

outperformed the placebo formulation – which did

against damage from UV rays. With this in mind,

not contain the active ingredient.

the anti-ageing segment of cosmetics is rather less lucrative among African consumers.

By contrast, African skin types tend to be

CAN YOU ENSURE BIX’ACTIV HAS THE SAME EFFECT ON BLACK SKIN?

less hydrated than others. In response, the skin

Dr Clarius: Even though we believe many actives will

seeks to compensate for this dryness through an

be effective independent of skin type, we wanted

overproduction of sebum, which leads to oiliness

to prove this hypothesis. So, we included cells from

and shininess. Common solutions on the market

black skin donors in our cell culture-based assays

to become home to some of the world’s fastest-

are often not suitable to counteract this concern,

for oily skin. These simplified systems help to shed

growing economies. Furthermore, as the world’s

and the regulation of sebum secretion tends to

more light on characteristic biological processes in

second most populous continent, Africa is projected

result in the skin becoming even drier. For African

the skin and to avoid failure when proceeding to the

to account for around 20% of the global population

skin types in particular, it is essential that sebum-

clinical study phase.

by 2025. This means that a huge number of people

regulating actives do not impact the skin’s natural

need effective personal care products customised

hydration balance.

Over the next few years, Africa is expected

12

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

The skin cells responsible for the production of sebum are known as sebocytes. The lipid droplets

ETHNIC CARE generated by these specialised cells can be

volunteers with a lipid index above 100µg/cm2

observed under a microscope. Both the number

were considered for the study.

and size of these droplets demonstrate their

During the four-week study, oiliness

role in the hyper-secretion of sebum. We

decreased by 44%, which is almost exactly

showed that Bix’Activ significantly reduces the

the same value achieved in the previously

number of lipid droplets in sebocytes of black

mentioned study involving Asian volunteers.

skin by 28%.

The reduction in sebum secretion also visibly mattified the skin. Gloss decreased by 11%, as

These are impressive results – but they

measured using a device called a Glossymeter.

were obtained on cell cultures. Were you also

The Glossymeter correlates directly reflected

able to prove the efficacy of Bix’Activ

light with gloss. Interestingly, hydration

on volunteers?

remained unchanged after the treatment period

Dr Clarius: Yes. The results encouraged

– so Bix’Activ kept skin dryness at bay.

us to conduct a placebo-controlled study

Bix’Activ was even able to reduce

THE

Buyer’sguide specifically on African skin. The study,

irregularities and imperfections. This is

which was performed in Mauritius in 2018,

clearly visible on digital photographs of the

consisted of 29 volunteers aged between

volunteers’ faces.

19 and 40. All volunteers had very dark skin,

The results confirm that Bix’Activ helps

corresponding to a phototype between V

reduce sebum production and improves the

and VI, with faces that appeared oily and

skin’s mattifying effect while preserving

shiny. This visual evaluation was confirmed

hydration – making it perfectly suited to the

by means of an objective measurement. Only

specific needs of African consumers.•

2017/2018

Illustrative pictures of skin shininess and oiliness before and after a fourweek treatment with 0.25% Bix’Activ.

Left: before treatment (D0). Right: after four weeks (D28)

BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com

THE

Buyer’sguide

2020/2021

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

13

ETHNIC CARE

The beauty of

natural cosmetic waxes More and more consumers are ditching chemicals in favour of a more natural approach to skin and hair care. Natural ingredients, such as waxes and butters, are growing in popularity as a result. In line with this trend, KahlWax has combined two fruits for its new product launch – orange wax. By Abby Vorster

Did you know?

Market research firm Euromonitor International estimates that $1.1bn worth of shampoos, relaxers and hair lotions are sold annually in South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon. The dry hair industry, which includes weaves, extensions and wigs, is also worth an estimated annual value of $6bn.

are among the most versatile multi-functional ingredients available. They improve the texture of a formulation, increase viscosity, add shine and improve the overall stability of a product.

Derived from orange peel, KahlWax 6698 Orange is a natural fruit wax for cosmetics

N

The company, which is a leading specialist in natural

atural is in; it’s what consumers want. A

NATURAL COSMETIC WAXES

waxes, is represented throughout Southern Africa

quick Google search reveals extensive

Natural beauty brands love using natural

by Savannah Fine Chemicals.

results featuring blogs and brand

cosmetic waxes in their formulations. Ask any

websites dedicated to natural hair and

formulator and they will say that natural waxes

skin care. If you take a look at Instagram, on this social media platform the hashtag #naturalhair has been used more than 27.9 million times.

While the natural hair care movement is more established than natural skin care, there is immense interest in both these types of products.

The natural beauty movement first started as a result of health concerns among consumers in terms of the use of chemical products. This saw a shift in product preferences in favour of natural hair and skin care products. The change has compelled many supply chains and hair and skin care product manufacturers to expand their product portfolios with natural offerings.

Marini Naturals, an African hair care brand, claims to be ‘the first quality natural hair care line of Kenya and Africa’. Launched in 2015, the brand offers moisture-rich products that make curls manageable and a wide range of hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair growth oils, curling butter, curling gels and moisturising mist sprays.

14

According to KahlWax, natural cosmetic waxes are ‘beauty’ and ‘care’ provided by Mother Nature.

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

KahlWax’s newest speciality is a natural fruit wax derived from orange peel. A rather unexpected

Table 1: Orange creamsicle hair milk (HC-LEN-003-11)

Phase Ingredient INCI % A Water Aqua ad 100

Lexquat C-PF Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride 5.00 Varisoft EQ 100 Quaternium-98 1.00 B Arlacel 165 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate 3.00 Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 4.00

KahlWax 6698 Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Cera, 3.00

Orange Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera

Emulium Kappa 2 Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl- 1.00

3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol,

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Apricot Kernel Oil Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil 2.00 (refined)

Miglyol 8810 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 2.00 C Unicert Orange Aqua, CI 15510 0.60

K7011-J (0.10 %) Orange Ginger Parfum 0.30 NaTrue Preservative q.s.

Featuring KahlWax 6698 Orange, this conditioner with vitalising citrus scent protects and nourishes hair and scalp. The rinse-off formula detangles and softens strands for beautiful, shiny, healthylooking hair

ETHNIC CARE

Natural waxes are among the most versatile multi-functional ingredients available

protects and adds shine. Hair milks are designed with oils, butters or waxes and other moisturising extracts, combined into a lightweight, milkytextured formula.

Using KahlWax 6698 Orange as the star ingredient, KahlWax designed an orange creamsicle hair milk that nourishes the scalp while detangling and softening hair strands for beautiful, shiny, healthy-looking hair. See Table 1 for the formulation guide.

The effect of KahlWax 6698 Orange on hair gloss was determined in a half-side comparison

utilisation of one of the world’s most popular citrus

Rhus verniciflua tree. Due to its unique structure,

fruits, the raw material is paired with berry wax

study against a placebo, using a rinse-off

it is able to reinforce crystal structures, increasing

– another natural fruit wax – to create a product

conditioner formulated with 3% of 6698. After a

the texture and hardness of KahlWax 6698 Orange

that combines skin-caring benefits with texture-

10-minute application time, hair was washed and

to ease its useability. Berry wax also improves

enhancing and stabilising properties.

air-dried. Gloss was determined at the hair roots

sensorial attributes and works as a refatting agent.

and lengths using a glossymeter. The study showed

KahlWax 6698 Orange is a versatile cosmetic

that KahlWax 6698 Orange was able to enhance the

raw material with a distinctive citrus scent. It is

CARING NATURAL HAIR MILK

suitable for hair and skin care products, where it

Textured hair goes hand in hand with the

provides smoothness, combability and shine. In

natural beauty movement as consumers who

colour cosmetics applications, it improves gloss and

quality, vegan and meets the requirements of

wear their curly or coily hair naturally use an array

colour brilliance.

current natural cosmetic standards.•

of natural hair care products to care for and

The semi-solid orange peel wax surrounds the fruit, protecting it against environmental influences

hair’s overall shine.

KahlWax 6698 Orange is of certified halal

manage their curls.

Hair milks are among these in-demand products

such as high temperatures and insects. Berry wax is

and are a cross between a leave-in conditioner and

a soft, pale wax derived from berry fruit peels of the

a lightweight rinse-off treatment, which detangles,

KahlWax – www.kahlwax.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

®

THE VERSATILITY OF THE ORANGE Our new KahlWax 6698 Orange combines the emollient character of orange peel wax with the texture enhancing and stabilizing properties of berry wax, which makes it very versatile. It is perfectly suited for hair and skin care products, as it conditions, provides smoothness and shine. 6698 is also recommended for color cosmetic formulations, where it enhances pay-off, gloss, and color brilliance. www.kahlwax.com

info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za

2020-11 Ad_Savannah_Q4_KahlWax.indd 1

17.11.20 10:43

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

15

ETHNIC CARE

A PARTNERSHIP MADE IN AFRICA

In the heart of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, a unique partnership between the rural community of Dakeni and Zuplex Botanicals exists. It ticks all the boxes of environmental sustainability and efficacy as well as community involvement and development.

Z

uplex Botanicals (Zuplex) is a

“Accessing and harnessing this wealth of plant

manufacturer of clinically tested active

life has led to the creation of a unique relationship

ingredients extracted from African

between the Dakeni village people and Zuplex,”

botanicals. It is primarily engaged in the

Whittington Banda explains.

cultivation of botanicals, product research and

The rural village of about 300 inhabitants is

development and the manufacturing of extracts,

found at the heart of KwaZulu-Natal. Most of the

although it also does research and product

residents still reside in traditional huts alongside

development in the nutrition and flavour sectors.

the uThukela River. The village has no piped water

It is well-known that the African continent has

and it only received electricity for the first time in

a rich biodiversity of plants. South Africa alone is

2018. There are also limited job opportunities and

home to almost 25% of the world’s plant species,

access to education.

many of which have unique qualities and chemical profiles. According to Zuplex CEO, Gill Whittington Banda, it is this biodiversity which lies at the heart of Zuplex Botanicals’ business. However, she says the way these species are harvested and the impact on the environment as well as community involvement are key to the company’s business model.

It is well-known that the African continent has a rich biodiversity of plants

AFRICAN BOTANICAL EXTRACTS FROM ZUPLEX

• Kigafirm: A Kigelia africana fruit extract that targets skin firmness and elasticity.

• Atriclear: An extract of Athrixia phylicoides with a clinically proven impact on skin smoothness and the enhancement of skin firmness and elasticity.

• Miramor: A Moringa oleifera leaf extract with a direct effect on skin barrier repair. It also minimises dry and scaly skin cells and protects against blue light pollution.

• Myravive: An extract of Myrothanmus flabellifolius, also known as the resurrection plant, aimed at rapid skin hydration.

• Rosacalm: An extract of Devil’s Claw (Harpagophytum procumbens) for inflammation, redness and promoting skin calming.

• Bao-Active C: Derived from the pulp of baobab fruit, this extract has pronounced anti-oxidant properties while the complex set of additional nutrients promotes rapid and sustained cell regeneration.

• Green Rooibos: An extract of Aspalathus linearis (redbush), aimed at adding smoothness and brilliance to hair.

• Cannavive: An extract of the Cannabis sativa, aimed at combating acne, reducing skin inflammation and with anti-ageing benefits.

USING AFRICAN BOTANICALS TO ALLEVIATE POVERTY Recognising an opportunity to harness the power of

the priority of the project team has been to uplift

African botanicals whilst uplifting the community,

the community through the payment of wages to

the Edakeni Muthi Futhi Trust was founded in 2008

the site team.

by the late Isaac Banda.

“The term ‘muthi futhi’ comes from the

Long term, as the project grows and moves from self-sustaining to being more profitable,

Zulu language, meaning ‘more medicine’. It is a

the plan is to invest and upgrade the current

community-owned social enterprise established

infrastructure and operations, ultimately having an

with the dual objective of cultivating and processing

even greater impact on the lives of the community

indigenous medicinal plants and of creating jobs

of Dakeni.

for the women of Dakeni to alleviate poverty and improve skills,” explains Whittington Banda.

The village of Dakeni

16

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

Muthi Futhi currently employs 12 women who work part time on the 17ha site. Since its inception,

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE PARTNERSHIP On its own, the Edakeni Muthi Futhi Trust has limited power as a primary producer, which limits

ETHNIC CARE

All its cosmetic extracts are COSMOS-approved

including sourcing, manufacture, packaging and

and halaal-certified. Furthermore, it operates

transportation. This includes reducing energy

a fully-certified FSSC22000 production facility,

consumption while minimising and managing

providing customers with a high level of

waste responsibly.

quality assurance.

Zuplex works to ensure that all botanical material, whether cultivated or harvested, is fully traceable, and that the supply of each species is managed to ensure sustainability. It has a Biotrade and Bioprospecting permit issued by the South

Muthi Futhi site team working in the nursery

African Department of Environmental Affairs, covering around 80 indigenous plant species.

future development. Through its partnership

The company also recently signed agreements

with the biotech company Zuplex – which has

with the San and Khoisan Councils of Indigenous

the ability to research, develop and manufacture

Knowledge Holders, associated with the

botanical extracts for the African and international

following plants:

cosmetics industries – there is opportunity for

• Aspalathus linearis

growth and expansion both commercially and for

• Hoodia gordonii

the community.

• Agathosma betulina/Agathosma crenulate

Muthi Futhi is a founding shareholder in

• Sceletium tortuosum

Zuplex, and currently holds a 32% shareholding

• Myrothamnus flabellifolius

in the company. It benefits both from sales

• Harpagophytum procumbens/

of botanical material to Zuplex, and (in the future) from dividends that can be reinvested in other development initiatives in Dakeni, such

Harpagophytum zeyherii.

Myrothamnus flabellifolius, which is currently being propagated by Zuplex

Royalties are paid to the councils on all the sales of products incorporating these species.

as equipment and infrastructure to increase

“Zuplex fits in perfectly with Botanichem’s focus on plant-derived ingredients which support

productivity and contribute to other community

SECURING THE FUTURE

sustainable products, fair-trade and the global

initiatives. These include clean drinking water, food

Zuplex is currently trialling the cultivation of certain

trend towards organic and safe products,” says

gardens, schools and crèches.

species including Myrothamnus flabellifolius

Botanichem’s Robyn Brown.

and Mondia whitei, which are rare, threatened or

“Aside from their selection of quality African

WORKING WITH NATURE

endangered and under threat from overharvesting

botanical extracts, the company’s community

Zuplex believes that a sustainable global economy

in the wild.

involvement through Muthi Futhi underpins

must combine long-term profitability with environmental care.

“Sustainability and impact on the environment

Together with the Durban Botanical Gardens in South Africa, Zuplex is looking at advanced tissue

a shared belief in environmental and social sustainability,” says Brown.

culture micro-propagation of targeted species such

Zuplex is represented locally by Botanichem. For

are key drivers of the Zuplex business,” says

as Mondia whitei and Siphonochilus aethiopicus, to

more information contact Robyn Brown, by sending

Whittington Banda, pointing out that the

counteract overharvesting in the wild.

an email to info@botanichem.co.za. •

company complies with national and international

Both Zuplex and Muthi Futhi follow the

bioprospecting regulations under the framework

principles of sustainable agriculture by not using

of the Nagoya Protocol. The company also ensures

any herbicides or pesticides. They also strive to

that all its own suppliers are compliant.

manage environmental effects across all processes,

Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Zuplex Botanicals – www.zuplex.co.za

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

17

PERSONAL CARE

Did you know?

Achieve double the emollience with half the emollients

Oils are an integral part of all cosmetic formulations. The oily phase in cream plays an essential role in the perceived moisturised sensation on skin. Emollients can act as occlusive agents, preventing TEWL, as well as influence the perceived comfort sensation by maintaining a soft and smooth skin feel.

However, several of these oils are classified as persistent and can accumulate in the environment. The refining process in oil production can also generate significant waste.

F

or a more sustainable approach, there is a

The key ingredients in this concept are Easynov

need to reduce the amount of oils whilst

(Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xyloside and

giving the same perception of emollience.

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) and a thickening/

This is where Seppic’s innovative Geltrap

stabilising polymer Sepiplus 400 (Polyacrylate-13

technology is interesting. It not only reduces the

and Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20) or

need for oil, but also is a cold process technology

Sepinov EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium

bringing significant savings in energy and

Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer).

processing time.

Geltrap produces gel-in-oil emulsions

Unlike regular emulsions that require high shear, Geltrap can be formulated with low or high shear.

composed of a high internal gelled water

Emulsification can be done with planetary or rotator

phase thickened by a polymer, and a low external

stator agitation or by combining the two. This

oil phase stabilised by a liquid xylolipidic

flexibility gives formulators a choice based on their

emulsifying system. The emulsion is produced

needs in terms of texture and available equipment.

by mixing the gelled and oil phases containing

The low-shear process creates a relatively fluid

the emulsifier. Gel droplets, fragmented during

texture, while high shear creates a relatively thick

mechanical agitation, are stabilised in the

texture. The emulsions obtained from either of the

oil phase.

processes are stable.

Figure 1: Energy consumption for manufacturing 5kg of different types of emulsions with a pilot TRIMIX (VMI)

18

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

Geltrap is formulated using a cold process.

The production of 5kg of Geltrap with low shear can save up to 98% energy and 78% production time. This is equivalent to a reduction of 4.6kg of CO2 emission*.

The environmental impact reduction is also effective when compared to a coldmanufactured w/o emulsion. Geltrap saves up to 74% and 64% of production time (see Figures 1 and 2).

TAILORED GELTRAP INNOVATIONS FOR AFRICA Here are some ideas specific to the African market utilising this unique technology.

These and several others can be explored on Seppic website. For prototypes, samples or customising to your needs, please approach CJP Chemicals.

• EU07529A hair conditioning Geltrap – the fresh, light and cushioned Geltrap texture makes this conditioner easy to apply. It also detangles and nourishes hair without weighing it down. The conditioning effect of the technology is patented; the texture helps to detangle hair from the roots to the tips, while the detangling force is homogeneous along the hair strand.

• EU07068B sub-zero Geltrap body care – this thirst-quenching body care formulation offers a very fresh texture and is easily absorbed without leaving a sticky effect, even with 14% of glycerine.

• EU07536 innovative caring perfume – this formulation renews the perfuming ritual. Hydrating and formulated without ethanol, the fragranced cream is intended for a local application and avoids skin dryness. Geltrap technology allows the obtention of a stable highly-fragranced cream without scent denaturation.

Studies show that it is more long lasting in comparison to ethanolic eau de toilette or an hydroalcoholic gel when tested on a panel of 27 experts in a co-development project with Expressions Parfumées.

• EU07417 Geltrap makeup remover – a super effective makeup remover cream, the product is formulated with Emogreen L19, which enables makeup removal with delicacy and provides a soft and comfortable finish. In this Geltrap formula, Emogreen L19 shows better makeup removal efficacy than isododecane with proven efficacy in lipstick, foundation and kohl removal.

PERSONAL CARE

KEY PROPERTIES Because of its continuous oil phase, Geltrap systematically achieves water-resistant formulas.

The water resistance was evaluated on several Geltrap formulations using an in vitro method developed by Seppic. It measures the weight loss of the emulsion film after two 20-minute immersions in a water bath, separated by 20 minutes drying time. The greater the weight loss after two immersions, the less water-resistant the product.

All formulas showed <50% weight loss qualifying as water-resistant formulas.

A comparison was done between different types of emulsions with similar compositions (gel-cream, classic o/w emulsion and classic w/o emulsion). The capacity of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) reduction was evaluated using an in vitro method developed by Seppic. The result shows that Geltrap containing 10% oil achieves the same TEWL reduction capability as a cream-gel or a classic o/w or w/o emulsion containing 20% oil (see Figure 3).

Figure 4: Sensorial analysis on the perceived emollient sensation of different types of emulsions The study was concluded with a sensory

Geltrap strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier

analysis on the perceived sensation of emolliency.

and leaves the same feeling of emolliency on

Indeed, there is a correlation between the TEWL

skin as conventional emulsions, yet with half the

and skin emolliency (i.e. softness and suppleness).

oil consumption. This is an optimised ecological

Reduced TEWL promotes the feeling of emolliency.

concept that uses the minimum amount of oil for

This time, four emulsions from the previous test

optimal results and maximum respect for

were evaluated by 12 panellists trained according

the environment.

to a classification protocol. The emulsions were classified from the lowest emolliency to the

CONCLUSION

highest, without ratings. Once again, the results

Available in Southern Africa from CJP Chemicals,

showed that Geltrap with 10% oil content provides

Geltrap is a unique ecological emulsion concept that

a perceived emolliency equivalent to conventional

meets a number of criteria sought by formulators

emulsions containing double the oil phase

and consumers. It is easily distinguished from other

(see Figure 4).

o/w and w/o emulsions and offers an exceptional skin feel contrasted between freshness and a cushion effect. This is thanks to the softness of the emulsifier Easynov and the cushioning effect of the polymer Sepinov EMT 10 or Sepiplus 400.

Geltrap retains all the benefits of continuous oil phase emulsions, including water resistance and TEWL reduction. Compared to other types of emulsions, it strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier and offers a perceptible sensation of emollience by using half the oil phase.

The technology is formulated using a cold process that works well with low or high shear. This simple and flexible process is highly respectful of the environment, saving considerable energy and manufacturing time. It easily adapts to all situations and conditions of industrial production.

Figure 2: Time consumption for manufacturing 5kg of different types of emulsions with a pilot TRIMIX (VMI) Ethical sourcing of Helichrysum in Bosnia and Herzegovina

With this innovative emulsion technology. CJP Chemicals and its international principal, Seppic are bringing sustainability to formulators. Seppic has a Gold rating from EcoVadis, which provides holistic sustainability ratings service for companies, delivered via a global cloud-based SaaS platform. •

*Average of the 27 European Union countries (339g CO2/kWh), according to Chiffres clés du climat France et Monde édition 2013 published by www.statistiques.developpement-durable. gouv.fr. 4.6kg CO2 is equivalent to driving 20km to 25km with a small gasoline car.

Figure 3: In vitro study on TEWL of different types of emulsions

CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com/en

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

19

HAIR CARE PERSONAL CARE

IN PURSUIT OF NATURAL PERFECTION African beauty consumers are looking for more natural, safe and trustworthy products than those made with synthetic ingredients. Helen Playdon of The Care Co. explores the trends that are challenging the composition of personal care products and the origin of ingredients.

I

n Africa, women scan product composition to look for hero ingredients while strong attention is also being paid to customised products. In addition, the sales of beauty care products are likely to be stimulated by the young population, as 60% of Africans are under the age of 25 years.

Product tailoring is key to winning the African battle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; provided the products remain affordable.1 COLOUR COSMETICS Natural colour for lips coming from a vegan, cruelty-free, high-performance red pigment offering presents a sustainable alternative to synthetic red pigments. Sustainably-sourced and crafted from the Chinese red radish

Raphanus sativus L., whose roots are naturally rich in coloured anthocyanin metabolites, the high content of natural-origin ingredients does not compromise the performance of the pigment on shade, intensity and stability.

It delivers a better coverage in comparison to a synthetic benchmark red pigment in products designed for lips, and together with its antioxidant properties, the pigment protects the fragile lip skin from free radicals.

Natural nail polish is becoming very popular due to claims of 75% to 85% naturality, sustainability and safety. Latest technical innovations provide intense colour and a glossy finish while being longer-lasting than previous prototypes.

SKIN AND HAIR CARE The clean beauty label is a consumer-driven movement, demanding safe and transparent ingredients. With such a young population demographic in Africa, one observes that

Personal and Home Care Polymer Manufactures Opacifiers Conditioners Sensory modifiers Rheology modifiers Emulsifiers

preserving the planet is important to this demographic because it makes sense that people work with nature, and not destroy it. They equate value in a product with environmentally-friendly credentials.2 Their buying habits are well-informed and highly selective with purchasing decisions. Natural, green, alternative and reflected transparency in brand offerings are key.

Healthy, natural-looking skin is of prime importance across all generations in Africa. A total of 93% of consumers think that science should be inspired by nature.3 Obtained by green fractionation technology from the natural essential oil of the wintergreen plant, natural and pure salicylic acid provides benefits in dermo-purification for skin, and anti-dandruff for hair care. It is a safe and effective peeling agent for exfoliation, and it has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial benefits, making it an effective active for acne-prone skin and a synergistic active for the treatment of dandruff.

Designed as a multi-ingredient clean beauty cocktail of salicylic acid

Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za Website: www.cpack.co.za

20

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

with powdered hyaluronic acid, this biodegradable exfoliator with retinol is a water-free formulation that is mild enough for sensitive skin. By adding a few drops of water, the cocktail turns into a foaming milk cleanser that brightens the complexion.

PERSONAL CARE

HAIR CARE AND HAIR GROWTH A high percentage of women are looking for natural alternatives to care for their hair.5 Wheat peptides are a clean and sustainable alternative to cationic guar, which is a key detangling ingredient for hair care. The peptides act as a conditioner to smooth and detangle the hair, significantly improving the combing of wet hair and smoothness versus cationic guar. They can be formulated in a leave-in conditioning spray with hyaluronic acid, buruti and moringa oils, and saffron flower and guarana extract to strengthen and repair hair.

Hair loss is a common affliction for many.

Research has shown the deregulation of two major hair follicle cell types are involved in androgenic alopecia, namely human fibroblast dermal papilla SCALP CARE

cells and outer root sheath cells. An active blend

Living in urban areas, the scalp is weakened and

containing dihydroquercetin glucoside and

more fragile due to all sorts of external aggressors,

epigallocatechin glucoside has been shown to

such as pollution and intense heat. An itchy or

stimulate human fibroblast dermal papilla cells and

irritated scalp is a growing concern for consumers.

outer root sheath cells to reverse hair loss.

An extract of plant stem cells derived from

Cicatricial alopecia results from hair follicle

camellia phyto-placenta cell culture is designed to

damage complicated by various pathological

address dry scalp and dandruff, whilst containing a

changes of the surrounding skin. Non-cicatricial

phyto-peptide that reduces skin sebum production

alopecia is caused either by functional or structural

and rebalances an itchy and flaky scalp. This unique

disorders of the hair follicle itself.

Androgenic alopecia hair follicle growth studies

product will also increase the scalp moisture content, resulting in a reduced number of dry flakes

showed a significant marked growth after seven

and significantly soothing the scalp.

days of treatment, showing the role of EGCG in

A fully biosourced bisabolol, obtained by

the stimulation of proliferation of dermal papilla

fermentation from plant sugars, offers the

fibroblasts and the promotion of human hair

possibility to take care of sensitive skin by fortifying

follicle growth.

A vegetal-like hyaluronic acid brings unique melting, velvety-smooth and moisturising effects to skin. It is combined with a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to prevent skin dehydration.

To meet consumers’ needs, a new generation of multi-beneficial products are being developed to deliver healthy and glowing skin with sustainable skin care benefits and novel sensory experiences.

Crafted by marine biotechnology from Himanthalia elongata, a brown macro-algae from France, addresses hyperpigmentation disorders in a preventive and curative way. On a daily basis, environmental stress such as UV exposure and pollution as well as chronological ageing generate a loss of control in the pigmentation process, which ends up in the appearance of brown and dark spots on the surface of the skin. This the communication between fibroblasts and

comfort. Scalp tests were performed on

HEALTHY SKIN

volunteers having an itchy scalp (pruritus) in

Oily skin leading to acne is a frustrating

a double-blind, inter-individual and placebo-

condition for both men and women. New phyto-

controlled clinical evaluation versus plant or

peptide technology (combining a peptide with a

chemical sources of bisabolol. The results

natural phytochemical molecule), offers a full

demonstrate great consumer benefits for those

set of antioxidant and anti-ageing activities

needing a sensitive scalp treatment.

that reduce facial sebum production with impressive efficacy.

hyaluronic acid for hair produced a soothing

balances and activates the skin microbiome.

sustainable macro-algae extract re-establishes

and soothing the skin and scalp while restoring

A dedicated formula with bisabolol and a

obtained by a skin complexion bioptimiser which

A formulated transforming gel, which is

shampoo with the powerful benefits of nature to

microbiome-friendly, instantly illuminates the

benefit the scalp and moisturise the hair.

skin and acts on sebum. One of the actives is

melanocytes, thereby reverting pigmentation by reactivating the expression of SDF-1, a key target in this skin condition, resulting in a significant decline of melanin content in the hyperpigmented spots (-327% in two months) on African skin. • References: 1. Roland Berger 2016 2. GFK 3. WGSN S/S 17 4. Mintel GNPD Global launches of hair products, % by leading claims, 2016 5. Mintel: The future of hair care 2017.

obtained from upcycled vetiver roots and exhibits

With the popularity of natural and botanical ingredients, hair care brands are finding success by

anti-ageing properties that put back volume

making use of recognisable ingredients with proven

in an ageing face. Instant whitening effects that

health benefits.4

visually brighten complexion and skin tone, are

The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za

ingredient suppliers • skin, hair, health, body care ingredients • masks • active, functional, visual, vectorised ingredients • fragrances • oils • butters • scrubs • plant extracts • rheologicals • emulsifiers • esters • pigments • nail polish • colour cosmetics • hair bleach • dyes • specialised packaging: jars, bottles, tubes, plastic, halal tel: +27 11 268 5555 80.Careco Ad_Nov 2020.indd 2

email: info@careco.co.za

website: www.careco.co.za 2020/11/27 12:39 PM

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

21

HAIR CARE PERSONAL CARE

Hair protection with

HydroxyShield polymer

When it comes to moisturisation, or perceived moisturisation, the skin is the first thing that comes to mind, but we forget that this concept is equally important in healthy looking hair. Jacques Strydom, technical manager of AECI Specialty Chemicals, explains the multifunctional benefits of this specialised amino silicone polymer and why it should form part of any performance orientated hair care range.

W

hen the hair is dry and damaged, it

perceived moisturisation, which makes hair look

biodegradable, which is in line with AECI Specialty

appears dull and is often prone to

naturally healthy and full of life.

Chemical’s sustainability goals. This novel

further damage. The only way to

technology can create next generation formulations SUSTAINABLE AND MULTIFUNCTIONAL

to meet consumers’ cleansing and conditioning

repair and protect the hair with the help of specially

HydroxyShield polymer is 90% active in 10%

needs. Over and above the repair aspect, the

formulated hair care products.

butyloctanol – and the butyloctanol is readily

polymer also offers multifunctional shielding

address this problem is to rescue,

The polymer also offers multifunctional shielding benefits for hair, including heat, colour and damage protection A product that addresses this all-encompassing dilemma is HydroxyShield polymer, available from AECI Specialty Chemicals. Due to the polymer terminating in hydroxyl aminosiloxane groups, which bond with the hair, various beneficial effects can be expected.

The siloxane provides softness and silky sensorial properties to the hair, while the amino group is responsible for anchoring the polymer to the hair. While these two groups provide structural benefits to the hair, the hydroxyl groups bring

22

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

Table 1: View from above foam conditioner

Phase Ingredient INCI A Water Aqua

EcoSense 3000 Surfactant Decyl Glucoside

HydroxySHIELD Polymer Bis-Diisopropanolamino-PG-Propyl

Disiloxane/Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone Copolymer

MaizeCare Style Polymer Hydrolysed Corn Starch

Lactic Acid, 90% Lactic Acid B EcoSense 3000 Surfactant Decyl Glucoside

Empigen BS/FA Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Peppermint Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint)

Leaf Extract

Sunflower Extract Glycerin, Water, Helianthus Annuus

(sunflower) petals extract

Horse Chestnut Extract Glycerin, Water, Aesculus hippocastanum

(Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract

PE 91.

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

Blue Lotus Tea Fragrance

Wt% 91.47 1.00 1.00

2.00 0.03 0.50 2.50 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.50 0.25

This foaming conditioner features Ecosense 3000, a decyl glucoside that offers mild cleansing and foaming properties. Due to the synergy between HydroxyShield and MaizeCare Style Polymer, this product offers superior anti-frizz and anti-fly-away benefits. MaizeCare typically functions as a standalone hair fixative for styling, but when paired with the Hydroxyshield in this type of formulation, synergistic conditioning benefits are attained

PERSONAL CARE

Table 2: Built for this leave-in conditioner cream

Phase Ingredient INCI A Water Aqua

HydroxyShield Polymer Bis-Diisopropanolamino-PG-Propyl

Sunflower Seed Oil Disiloxane/Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone Copolymer

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Baobab Oil Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil B Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Dimethicone

Fluid 2 cSt

Dowsil FZ-3196 Fluid Caprylyl Methicone

Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol

Emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate

PE 91 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Fragrance Parfum C Aculyn Siltouch Rheology Sodium Acrylate / Sodium

Modifier Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

(and) Dimethicone (and) Trideceth-6

(and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Wt% 84.31 2.00

2.00 1.50 1.50 0.99 0.50 2.00

benefits for hair, including heat, colour and

rescues, repairs and protects from hair breakage

damage protection.

day after day. Due to the multifunctional benefits,

to design a hair cleansing and conditioning line that

it also allows the brand owner to make consumer differentiating claims, such as:

appearance’ claim • reduces hair breakage for a ‘hair protection’ claim • enhances sensory for a ‘smooth feeling’ claim • supports convenience claims of ‘fast drying’ and

0.10 0.10 5.00

HydroxyShield Polymer might be the star of this formulation, offering unmatched conditioning benefits, but it is not the only specialized material in the product. Aculyn Siltouch Rheology modifier is a cold process, polymeric emulsifier that instantaneously emulsifies and thickens O/W systems, and thus perfectly fitting to form the structural basis of this conditioner cream. Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt is the perfect low viscosity, high volatility silicone to deliver manageability, shine and sensory excellence to the hair

Ultimately, HydroxyShield Polymer allows you

• improved hair alignment for a ‘healthy

‘easy styling’ • delays colour fade for a ‘colour protection’ claim • reduces breakage from heat appliances for a ‘heat protection’ claim.

A LEADER IN ITS FIELD In terms of comparative or benchmark testing, HydroxyShield outperforms most amino silicones in its league when it comes to a reduction of wet and dry combing friction, dry sensory benefits, reduced breakage, drying speed, hair alignment, colour protection and heat protection. It is not difficult to perceive how this all-rounder ingredient could form the centrepiece of any new hair care line. For inspiration, the formulations showcased in Tables 1 and 2 can be considered. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@ aeciworld.com or karen.meyer@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

23

PERSONAL CARE

BALANCE FORM, FUNCTION AND ENVIRONMENTAL NEEDS WITH FUNCTIONAL FILLERS Pollution, sustainability, veganism, social responsibility, wellness and, of course, COVID-19 all play a role in consumers’ purchasing decisions when it comes to personal care products. The natural assumption currently is that people choose brands with the most aggressive cleansing claims, though a general sense of wellbeing or a feeling of being pampered is just as important.

By Karen Maier

The RonaFlair products provided equal and … superior performance compared to their microplastic equivalents

B

ath and shower products continue to

and powdered face masks which do not require

combining RonaFlair Satin, RonaFlair LDP White or

evolve. Long gone are the days of a

extensive packaging, preserve water resources and

Flawless and RonaFlair Soft Sphere, using different

plain bar of soap or simple shower gel

are easy to transport and store.

combinations and various ratios, one can achieve

that smelled nice for the sole purpose

all the benefits of Nylon 12 or PMMA without the

of cleansing. These products have become

PLASTIC POLLUTION

increasingly sophisticated and already feature a

Reducing the consumption of plastic because of

Merck conducted various studies to verify

host of claims. However, the evolution is far

its destructive impact on the environment is on

the performance of the RonaFlair products as

from complete.

everyone’s lips. Whether it’s plastic packaging

substitutes for the plastic-based fillers, in

material or the microplastics within formulations,

terms of sensory aspects (softness and powdery

the cosmetics industry needs to offer safe, natural

skin feel, for example), and parameters such

alternatives that do not compromise on quality and

as wrinkle reduction and disguising small

sensory aspects.

imperfections, or soft-focus effects. It was found

Did you know?

Functional fillers play a crucial role in the look, feel and quality of cosmetic products by ensuring great skin feel, spreadability and transparency. A successful combination of functional fillers includes platelets and spheres, which glide and roll onto the skin, imparting a silky luxurious feel, positively impacting the performance of the final product.

One may ask why there is such an outcry

environmental damage.

that, depending on the product combination, the

against the use of microplastics in cosmetics?

RonaFlair products provided equal and, in some

Environmental researchers have found

instances, superior performance compared to

microplastics present across the world, deep within

their microplastic equivalents.

the oceans, in the snow high up in the Alps and

Formulating for the personal care industry

even in polar sediment. Once microplastics enter

has become a fine art, choosing ingredients that

the natural environment, they are impossible to

speak to the needs of not only the person using

remove, and they are resistant to biodegradability.

them but to the needs of our natural environment,

Microplastics are even entering the food chain

too. Getting it wrong in the time of social media,

a much higher priority for consumers – and

from oceans, nature and even farms, and while the

especially when it comes to the aspects around the

formulators should take notice of this need when

impact on human health is not yet fully understood,

environment and preserving our planet, can result

developing new products.

it is already obvious it will not be positive.

in a far-reaching backlash for a brand owner. But,

Maintaining the skin microbiome has become

Market research tells us that sustainability

get it right and you and your brand will reap the

is another major concern, sparking the need for

INNOVATIVE ALTERNATIVES

products that require the least packaging materials,

The technical teams at Merck have been working on

contain fewer ingredients and offer multiple

safe, environmentally-friendly alternatives to Nylon

benefits. For example, solid, waterless formulations

12 and PMMA and have come up with solutions

based of effective, multi-functional natural

from the RonaFlair Functional Fillers portfolio.

ingredients are particularly on trend – think solid shampoos and body balms, or cleansing powders

24

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

There is no single solution to substitute microplastics like-for-like. Yet, by cleverly

rewards for years to come. •

Merck – www.merckgroup.com

PERSONAL CARE

New sustainable formulation kits for hair and body care With less environmental impact and reduced water content, Kao’s new formula kits represent a more caring approach to personal care. Available in Southern Africa from CIM Chemicals, both kits synergise eco-consciousness, water reduction, ease of use and reduced packaging for the innovation and sustainable development of personal care products.

A

ccording to Mintel, water is set to

creamy foam, is eco-friendly and cold processed.

hair styling; and Danox HC-30, a one-step

become a precious commodity as

The smooth solid conditioner is also eco-friendly.

2-in-1 conditioning agent, which facilitates the

consumption outstrips supply. The more

This water free product leaves hair smooth

formulation process and gives hair what it needs

consumers become aware of this, the

and conditioned. The body moisturiser is highly

to keep it healthy with excellent detangling results,

more beauty brands will need to change how they

moisturising, fast absorbing and packaging free.

making it easier to comb while fly-away can easily

manufacture and formulate products to limit their

All three of the waterless kit formulations are

be controlled.

dependence on water.

perfumed with Kao’s range of exclusive scents.

Kao’s commitment to the environment and

For body care, thanks to its emulsifying properties and good skin compatibility, Danox

the sustainable growth of society and industry

DILUTABLE KIT

HC-30 is a product highly recommended for

is evident in these new formula kits. They

There are two formulations in the dilutable kit – a

the preparation of solid formats and skin care

also represent the company’s drive to create

conditioner and hair and body cleanser. These are

emulsions. Likewise, thanks to the combination

environmentally-friendly solutions and to respond

both concentrated formulas, which require dilution

of an emollient, Exceparl LM-LC, and the active

to the needs of its customers when developing

before use. The dilution of the hair conditioner is

ingredient, Exceparl IS-CE-A – a biomimetic skin

innovative products in accordance with new trends.

20:100 and 30:100 for the hair and body cleanser.

lipid that recovers stratum corneum and improves

This amount of water is minimal and the kits use

skin's water-retaining ability – a sustainable

less packaging.

body moisturiser with a natural character can

Kao’s commitment to the environment … is evident in these new formula kits

The concentrated formulas mean that no water

be achieved. •

is shipped and a 30mℓ concentrated product equals 100mℓ. Formulated with mild surfactants, the conditioner and hair and body cleanser are also easy to prepare.

INGREDIENTS IN ACTION In these kits, Kao has incorporated select hair

SOLID WATERLESS KIT

solutions such as Akypo Foam LM 25, an ultra-soft

The solid waterless kit comprises three formulation

cleaning agent that provides a consistent, stable

options: a creamy shampoo; hair conditioner;

foam with a creamy texture; Kao Sofcare GP-1,

and body moisturiser. The easy-to-use creamy

a fortifying and repairing conditioning agent that

shampoo offers conditioning properties, a high and

maintains volume, gives shine and facilitates

CIM Chemicals – www.cim.co.za Kao Chemicals Europe – www.kaochemicals-eu.com

Choose AKYPO FOAM LM 25 anionic surfactant for ultra-mild cleansing and sulphate-free formulations!

The benefits are endless: • Ultra-mild surfactant • Readily biodegradable • High concentration • Soft & creamy foam texture • Micro-bubble size • Clear formulations • Easy to thicken • Vegetable derived fatty alcohols • Excellent compatibility with all kinds of surfactants, polymers & conditioning agents

Brad: 060 583 5324 www.cim.co.za

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

25

HOME CARE

Disinfection that lasts

As soon as a surface is touched again, it is recontaminated. Yet, when using Actizone in surface cleaning applications, you have patented technology that provides a continuous protection of surfaces

When using typical disinfection cleaners at home, many consumers believe that the surfaces stay protected for several hours. They also believe that efficient disinfection is not required at least until the next day. In reality, disinfectants kill bacteria and viruses, but take time to take effect and do not provide long-lasting protection. Actizone from Solvay presents a game changer in this regard in the hygiene and disinfection market.

A

s soon as a surface is touched again, it

an integral part of the everyday cleaning chore,

is recontaminated. Even a single missed

while consumers have become more demanding in

bacterium will produce over 16 million

terms of the performance of products they use.

copies in only eight hours.

Actizone presents a real breakthrough in

KEEPING THE ENTIRE FAMILY SAFE

the hygiene market. According to Solvay, this

Common disinfectant cleaners on the market

disinfectant cleaner not only provides 99.9% germ

make use of antibacterial active technologies, such

kill, but also continues to be active on surfaces

as quaternary ammonium ingredients, alcohol

for 24 hours, even after multiple events of

or bleach, which are effective in killing germs on

erosion and recontamination of the surface by

contact. Once deactivated, surfaces return to

multiple contacts.

their initial state, which means that they can be recontaminated.

A SUDDEN AND RISING NEED FOR HYGIENE

Subsequent to four years of research and

Consumers spend significant time on interior

development, Solvay launched Actizone, a

cleaning tasks, and as we are constantly

unique blend that combines Solvay technologies

interacting with surfaces, keeping them protected

and know-how for a truly long-lasting defence

against bacteria and viruses has become an

mechanism against harmful microorganisms and

absolute priority.

with proven efficacy under regulated tests.

Furthermore, the global coronavirus pandemic

Multipurpose disinfectant cleaners with Actizone

has not only pushed every single consumer to

technology combine

place hygiene at the heart of their existence, but

three benefits:

also at the centre of their cleaning routines. As a

1. optimal cleaning performance

result, antibacterial claims for hard surface cleaners

2. fast kill of more than 99.9% of germs

launched in Europe have grown over 140% between

3. 24-hour antimicrobial protection against

January and September 2020.

Another spinoff of the crisis was the sudden rise

ACTIZONE HIGHLIGHTS

• fast kill (< five minutes) of 99.9% of the germs and broad-spectrum efficacy • long-lasting disinfecting action, up to 24-hour antibacterial effect even when the surface is eroded and contaminated by multiple contacts • no compromise on cleaning aesthetics with residue-free cleaning • enhances productivity and reduces risks of recontamination • supplied as a ready-to-dilute formulation • suitable for disinfectant spray cleaners.

Actizone-based products are formulated to enhance consumer cleaning experiences from start

recontamination, including when eroded by

to finish. Most importantly, Actizone is designed

multiple contacts.

to work on a variety of commonly used surfaces,

in hygiene awareness for consumers worldwide.

including laminates, polycarbonate, glass and

Surface care industry leaders have witnessed

OPTIMAL CLEANING PERFORMANCE

steel. The technology offers unmatched aesthetic

an increased demand for products with proven

An enjoyable and effective cleaning experience

benefits and excellent cleaning performance over a

efficacy, detailed on the labels and often backed by

is the expectation of today’s home care products

range of soils. Consumers are able to preserve the

trusted technical data rather than simply trusting

from modern consumers with busy lifestyles – and

natural shine of a surface by ensuring a residue-

marketing. In simpler words, hygiene has become

antibacterial solutions are no exception.

free clean.

26

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

HOME CARE

Germs present on the surface after several cycles of abrasion and bacteria recontamination

FAST, BROAD-SPECTRUM PROTECTION Disinfectant cleaners formulated with Actizone provide consumers with the expected fast germ kill of bacteria, yeast and viruses. Once applied, the technology rapidly destroys 99.9% of microorganisms, with proven efficacy against the human coronavirus, making it an effective COVID-19 disinfection solution, which needs to work quickly and reliably.

Actizone also provides a strong efficacy over a broad spectrum. It rapidly kills (< five minutes) gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria, as well as enveloped and non-enveloped viruses, including H1N1, influenza and the human coronavirus. The efficacy of Actizone technology is proven through rigorous independent laboratory tests.

24-HOUR ANTIMICROBIAL DEFENCE

Actizone offers formulators the benefit of Solvay’s unmatched experience in the home care and cleaning market to launch a truly efficient antibacterial cleaner with a breakthrough 24-hour protection claim

Actizone is a patented technology that provides a continuous protection of surfaces. Since surfaces

Self Sanitising Test and BSI PAS 2424 Residual

by COVID-19, Solvay introduces its Actizone

are routinely touched and contaminated, it is a

Antimicrobial Efficacy Test.

technology as a ready-to-dilute solution, known

desired technology to truly ensure full protection throughout the day.

The efficacy of Actizone technology is proven through rigorous independent laboratory tests

as Actizone F5 conc. It contains antibacterial IMPROVED SUSTAINABILITY

quaternary ammonium compounds as actives to

This product from Solvay is a desired way of

rapidly kill germs, an optimised surfactant blend

formulating sustainable multipurpose disinfection

to achieve best-in-class cleaning aesthetics with

cleaners. With once-daily application, it enhances

residue-free benefits and a proprietary polymer

productivity and sustainability as it allows

that will provide 24-hour durable protection.

consumers and businesses to use disinfectant

This product offers formulators the benefit of

products less frequently. Once sprayed onto

Solvay’s unmatched experience in the home care

surfaces, the patented Actizone technology

and cleaning market, as well as immense flexibility

provides an all-day bacterial defence, even after

to companies to launch a truly efficient and brand-

repeated touches, without sacrificing the cleaning

new antibacterial cleaner in record time, with a

The product traps antimicrobial actives to

experience. It also helps to reimagine public health

breakthrough 24-hour protection claim backed by

form an invisible protective film that won’t erode

and wellbeing by providing continuous protection in

data generated by Solvay in multiple world-class

after repeated touch. It protects surfaces against

public spaces.

independent labs. •

recontamination for 24 hours as the actives within the technology remain continuously available.

A READY-TO-USE PRODUCT

Actizone is compliant with the most stringent

To answer immediate needs in the market for

testing standards, including US-EPA RSS Residual

efficient disinfecting cleaners in a world constrained

Solvay – www.solvay.co.za

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

27

HOME CARE

Disinfection done right!

Although the main focus of a disinfectant is the functional benefit, it can also delight the senses with an atmospheric scent. Bacteria and germs are common in our everyday life on many devices and objects. Our hands are potential carriers and transmitters of these germs, so the most important factors are proper hygiene and the correct application of a disinfectant. By Adam Owen

W

ith the global COVID-19 pandemic putting heightened

we have focused on blending herbal elements, clean vanilla, oakmoss,

focus on cleaning, disinfecting and personal sanitising

cedarwood, gourmand tones such as caramel and candy floss with traditional

products, we are constantly and increasingly washing and

apple, citrus and lavender fragrances, with which the market is familiar.

sanitising our hands, works spaces and personal items

that are used on a daily basis.

NEW OFFICE TO STREAMLINE LOGISTICS

o6 Agencies understands that being able to offer fragrances that can be

To better manage market demands and supply chain into the COMESA region,

used to scent multiple home care cleaning applications, as well as air sanitising

o6 Agencies has expanded its operation with the opening of a Mauritian office,

foggers and purifiers and now personal sanitising products, is pinnacle to

which will be fully functional early in 2021. Not only will this better streamline

ensuring customer satisfaction.

our logistical reach into Southern and Eastern Africa, allowing us to adapt faster

The company also realises the need to assist manufactures with limiting the number of fragrance variants they are required to hold for each application.

and easier to ever changing obstacles, but will also give us deeper insight into local and regional tastes, trends and product needs. â&#x20AC;˘

HOME CARE FRAGRANCE TRENDS Floral and fruity notes are always popular for home cleaning and disinfectant products. To give these products a more unique and sophisticated scent,

28

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

o6 Agencies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; o6southafrica.com

LABELLING

SIMPLIFY CODE READING AND INSPECTION

There is a new solution on the market for manufacturers who are concerned that their product inspections are becoming too complex. The V/F400 and V/F300 series smart cameras are the latest additions to Omron’s popular MicroHawk line, which offers code reading and vision inspection capabilities.

T

he powerful yet compact MicroHawk V/ F400 and V/F300 series smart cameras simplify applications by offering the possibility to combine code reading

and vision inspection into a single, highlycompact device.

These smart cameras are suitable for the pharmaceutical, food and beverage industries as well as commodities where serialisation with

IN SUPPORT OF MANUFACTURING INNOVATION Omron Electronics is the South African subsidiary of Omron Corporation, a global leader in the field of automation based on its core technology of ‘Sensing & Control + Think’. Established in 1933, Omron has about 36 000 employees worldwide, working to provide products and services in more than 110 countries and regions. The company's business fields cover a broad spectrum, ranging from industrial automation and electronic components to automotive electronics, social infrastructure systems, healthcare and environmental solutions.

a combination of track and trace are of utmost importance.

REDUCED COSTS AND GREATER FLEXIBILITY Bundling multiple capabilities in one, the V/F400 and V/F300 series lower hardware costs and minimise the work required for commissioning and maintenance. Powerful technologies such as liquid lens autofocus options and a high-resolution five-megapixel colour camera ensure exceptional precision while promoting greater flexibility in

The powerful yet compact MicroHawk camera can inspect pharmaceutical packaging at high speeds algorithms allows reading of any code on damaged,

on small robots. Their wide variety of supported

shiny, curved or otherwise textured materials,

communication interfaces include Ethernet/IP and

RELIABLE INSPECTION TECHNOLOGY

minimizing downtime and keeping production

Profinet for added flexibility. •

The cutting-edge autofocus technology ensures

moving smoothly.

production line layouts.

that the camera can reliably inspect products that

The compact size of the V/F400 and V/F300

vary in size, shape, colour or desired inspection

series makes it easy to embed them within

type. In addition, Omron’s advanced X-Mode

space-constrained equipment or mount them

Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za

Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series

• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines

Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info_sa@omron.com industrial.omron.co.za fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_02_d01.indd 1

09-06-20 10:22

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

29

HAIR CARE LABELLING

Achieve more

with NFC tags and RFID chips Near field communication (NFC) tags and radio frequency identification (RFID) chips help blur the lines between the physical and digital world, exceeding expectations with better product availability, revolutionising checkouts and increasing access to information. Jessica Busa of Siyakha Imperial Printing reveals how.

individual needs are better met. When included in

HOW IT ALL WORKS

the labelling of individual products, NFC enables

NFC and RFID systems work with radio waves

consumers to get more information about the

– picked up after scanning a small electronic tag

products they want to purchase. Possibilities such

inserted into an item’s label or packaging – using

as linking to a video on how to use an item or a

mobile or stationary readers. The tag can be

recipe can all be realised with NFC.

encoded with a unique identifier. RFID allows tagged items to be identified without direct

NFC and RFID costs … are starting to become more accessible

proximity, as is needed with a barcode.

NFC and RFID costs, which have traditionally been too expensive for consumer applications, are starting to become more accessible and their potential in retail applications is growing as the technology evolves.

Siyakha Imperial Printing is a committed partner to its customers, helping them increase efficiencies

Using NFC, a link to a video can be embedded in a product’s label, providing consumers with detailed info on how to use an item

C

30

AUTOMATION AND CONSUMER EXPERIENCE

with better item-level accuracy throughout their

The benefits of RFID in accurate inventory

global supply chain. In doing this, we also help

management include avoiding consumer

customers achieve their sustainability goals by

disappointment with out-of-stock items and

reducing waste and their overall environmental

increase response time with product location.

impact. We work with longstanding partners and

Ultimately, this leads to savings and improved

industry leaders to provide the best collaborative

consumer experience.

solutions for the future. •

RFID can also considerably reduce the time

onsumers desire personalisation, a

consumers waste in queues. Retailers that have

connection with products and immediate

introduced automatic RFID-powered checkouts

access to information. In today’s retail

have eradicated the tedious task of scanning

landscape, consumers will go where their

individual barcodes.

QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA

Siyakha Imperial Printing – www.labelprint.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS: PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

SYNTEGON ESTABLISHES A THIRD CUSTOMER CENTRE FOR OSD PHARMACEUTICALS

Located in Waiblingen, Germany, Syntegon Technology’s new OSD customer centre includes everything customers need for the formulation, development and production of OSD pharmaceutical products.

Syntegon’s GKF 720 HiProTect

From the development of active ingredients or formulations to process optimisation and machine operator training – we bridge the gap between all these disciplines

O

n 16 November, after a 12-month

parameters on production equipment,

construction period, Syntegon

the centre also offers them the process

Technology inaugurated its new oral

analysis of active ingredients and

solid dosage (OSD) customer centre.

formulations, as well as the diagnosis

The 600m2 building houses from cleanrooms and assembly areas to offices, meeting and training rooms.

“With this infrastructure and our team of experts, we offer our customers the innovative

of existing processes.

“Especially for powders, we can now offer more comprehensive services,” he explains.

To develop optimum parameters,

power they expect from a reliable and future-

Syntegon uses the newly-developed

oriented partner,” says Dr Thomas Brinz, head of

automated process development (APD)

the new OSD customer centre.

tool, which is also suited for active

In the new premises, Syntegon’s clients will meet with experts who take care of problem solving, as well as optimising and developing their processes and providing seminars and training.

Syntegon has increased sixfold the cleanroom

ingredients or formulations that have not yet been approved.

“Manual evaluations of process parameters can take days or even weeks,” says Dr Brinz. “The APD tool

capacity at its site in Waiblingen. Everything

achieves not only faster, but also more

from laboratory equipment to production scale

precise results.”

machines, TPR tablet presses for mono- and bilayer

By determining the interactions between

tablets as well as GKF capsule filling machines are

material, quality and process-critical parameters,

available for all formats and products in different

the tool ensures an improved understanding of the

cleanroom classes – up to the highest containment

process, which in turn has positive effects on the

level OEB5.

quality of the end product.

BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN R&D

WORLDWIDE LABORATORY COMPETENCE

AND PRODUCTION

The OSD customer centre provides customers

The new OSD customer centre offers

with a 10-strong core team of pharmacists,

pharmaceutical developers and manufacturers an

chemists, process specialists, engineers, trainers

ideal location to test future formulations or existing

and service technicians.

products on real machines.

“From the development of active ingredients or

“Depending on the customer project, we can

addition, we are also able to expand our range of training courses and seminars.”

The centre complements the range of specialised laboratories and other customer centres of Syntegon. Waiblingen is the third facility for OSD forms, alongside Schopfheim in Germany and Hangzhou in China. In addition, five partner laboratories provide optimum advice to pharmaceutical developers and manufacturers around the world.

“The new customer centre is the logical next step towards even stronger customer orientation and flexible services,” adds Dr Brinz.•

flexibly call in additional specialists from different

formulations to process optimisation and machine

areas,” he comments. “This way, we help our

operator training – we bridge the gap between all

customers to design their capsule filling and tablet

these disciplines,” says Dr Brinz. Since Syntegon’s

pressing processes much more efficiently, and

customers don’t just want to test their filling

to increase their overall plant effectiveness. In

Syntegon Technology – www.syntegon.com

P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020

31

From one

brave team to anotherâ&#x20AC;Ś Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV shutdown.

ID-19 the

You are the unsung heroes!

Our #PurplePeople salute you!

32

AFRICA

QUARTER 3 2020 // P&C AFRICA

South African journal for food and beverage manufacturers

FOOD Manufacturing Africa Journal for food and beverage manufacturers

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