AFRICA
Quarter 4 2020 | Volume 5
www.pharmacos.co.za
Redefining African hair and skin care
HOME CARE
DISINFECTION DONE RIGHT!
PERSONAL CARE IN PURSUIT OF NATURAL PERFECTION
LABELLING
SIMPLIFY CODE READING AND INSPECTION
WITH NATURAL AND
SUSTAINABLE INGREDIENTS
2020/21 P&C Review and Symrise
P&C Review and Symrise are unveiling a re-energised New Product Competition that is relevant to all players in the South African cosmetics industry. The 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition will now be judged according to the following market segments: • Mass/Masstige • Prestige • Privé Label The entries scoring the highest in each of the three segments will all be named winners of the 2020/21 P&C Review/Symrise New Product Competition.
Who is eligible to enter: • Local and international personal care, hair care, skin care, beauty and cosmetics brands, whose products are available in South Africa. • Brand owners, private label or house brands, manufacturers, retailers or distributors who have launched new products between 1 January 2019 and May 2021.
review Pharmaceutical & & Cosmetic
All entries will receive confidential reports with extensive feedback from our panel of expert judges, who collectively hold over 100 years’ experience in their respective fields. Each product/range entered into the 2020/21 New Product Competition will be judged on the following criteria: • Formulation design • Regulatory compliance • Packaging • Marketing incorporating social media and digital campaigns.
Entries are now open and will close on 1 June 2021. For more information or to enter, contact Abby Vorster, editor of P&C Review on 071 359 4519 or send an email to Abby.Vorster@newmedia.co.za.
2
QUARTER 3 2020 // P&C AFRICA
www.pharmacos.co.za
AFRICA Quarter 4 2020 | Volume 5 | 03
www.pharmacos.co.za
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
CONTENTS 6 NEWS
26 HOME CARE
Actizone – for disinfection that lasts
Symrise to acquire Sensient’s fragrances business unit
Home care fragrance trends
Iberchem to join the Croda family
Nigeria Society of Cosmetic Chemists becomes 50th IFSCC member
10 ETHNIC CARE
Silicones offer clean and safe beauty for all
BASF explores rebalancing of African skin
The beauty of natural cosmetic waxes
29 LABELLING
Omron simplifies code reading and inspection
Achieve more with NFC tags and RFID chips
31 P HARMA FOCUS: PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY
New OSD customer centre for Syntegon
Zuplex Botanicals partners with the people of Dakeni
18 PERSONAL CARE
Achieve double the emollience with half the emollients
In pursuit of natural perfection
Hair protection with HydroxyShield polymer
he sustainability benefits of Merck’s T functional fillers
Kao launches eco-friendly formulation kits
28
DISINFECTION DONE RIGHT
10
THINK SILICONES,
THINK CLEAN AND SAFE BEAUTY FOR ALL Silicones are effective, inert and versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in numerous ways
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 3 2020
3
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
FROM THE EDITOR
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Redefining our ‘why’
T
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Naresh Budraj Sub-editor: Katrien Smit Contributors: Helen Playdon, Karen Maier, Adam Owen, Jessica Busa, Jacques Strydom ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za
o say it’s been a challenging year is
orange wax and a stunning hair milk formulation
an understatement. COVID-19 has
to inspire new product development. Merck shares
devastated worldwide economies and
insights into the sustainability benefits
placed immense pressure on the world’s
of its RonaFlair Functional Fillers portfolio and
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za
healthcare systems. Fatality numbers keep on
how these fillers can be combined to form
rising – keeping people from their loved ones
effective substitutes for plastic-based or
INTERNATIONAL SALES
and employees working from home for extended
microplastic-type fillers in cosmetic formulations.
periods. And it continues to have devastating socio-
Look out for this and other sustainability-focused
economic costs.
articles in this edition.
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de
Yet among the tragedy and devastation, we are
In line with the COVID-19 theme, Solvay’s
seeing immense bravery and sheer innovation as
Actizone disinfectant technology presents a real
businesses and individuals do all
breakthrough in the hygiene market. According to
they can to adapt their strategies during these
Solvay, this disinfectant cleaner not only provides
difficult times.
99.9% germ kill, but also continues to be active on
According to DeSantis Breindel, a B2B branding and marketing agency based in New York, during the pandemic, brand purpose has become more
surfaces for 24 hours, even after multiple events of erosion and recontamination of the surface. With this unprecedented year finally coming to
important than ever. Brands have had to redefine
end – it’s only fitting to wish our advertisers and
their missions, craft uplifting messages, and
readers well for the festive season. Thank you, from
demonstrate how they make a positive difference in
the team and me, for your continued support. We
their communities. It’s critical that brands continue
hope you have a good holiday, prosperous New Year,
to embrace these values long after the pandemic is
and continue to stay safe.
over – because the bar has truly been raised.
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
At P&C Review Africa, we’ve also raised the bar by refreshing our brand, redesigning the magazine and redefining our purpose as the
Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
Enjoy the read!
go-to trade publication for the personal care and pharmaceutical manufacturing industries in Africa. We hope you love our new look as much as we do – let us know by sending an email with your feedback to abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za. We’ve got lots of informative content in
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd. MANAGEMENT TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb
store for you, in our last edition for 2020. IMCD,
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis
in conjunction with Grant Industries, explores
BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley
silicones as ideal clean beauty ingredients in skin and hair care formulations. KahlWax, represented by Savannah Fine Chemicals, introduces its new
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 www.newmedia.co.za
AECI Specialty Chemicals..............................23....................... www.aeciworld.com Botanichem .....................................................17........................ www.zuplex.co.za Chempack Industries......................................20....................... www.cpack.co.za CIM Chemicals ................................................25....................... www.cim.co.za CJP Chemicals.................................................5.......................... www.cjpchemicals.co.za IMCD SA ............................................................OFC.................... www.imcdgroup.com o6 Agencies SA................................................28....................... www.o6southafrica.com Omron Electronics............................................29....................... www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................15........................ www.savannah.co.za Siyakha Imperial Printing Co...........................30....................... www.labelprint.co.za The Care Co......................................................21........................ www.careco.co.za
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.
Copyright: all rights reserved.
4
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
Unlocking potential, innovation and excellence on the African continent CJP Chemicals, established in 1986, is a leading stockist and distributor of both speciality and commodity raw chemicals to a variety of industries. With sales offices and warehouses in all four major business districts of South Africa, namely Johannesburg (HQ), Durban, Cape Town & Port Elizabeth, CJP Chemicals has the capacity to supply a diverse range of products. Together with our strong and long standing partnerships with both international and local producers, CJP Chemicals has the reach to source, procure and deliver commercial, technical and logistical solutions to all our customers. Our Personal Care division offers a comprehensive range of innovative ingredients that deliver ease-of-use technical performance and efficacy to our customers’ formulations. • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Anti Ageing Agents Anti Bacteria Anti caking Anti Fungal Bulking Agent Butters Carbomers Carrier Oils Conditioning Agents Emolients Emulsifier Essential oils Excipents Exfoliating Agents Fatty Acids Fatty Alcohols Fillers Fragrances Gelling Agents Glycols Humectants Matting Agents Moisturising Agents Peeling Granules Petrolatum Polymers Polysorbates Preservatives Sebum Regulator Silicones Skin Whiteners Soaps Solubilzer UV Filters Surfactants Thio-Compounds Vegetable Oils Waxes White Mineral Oils
Tel: 011-494-6700 Email: nataliem@cjpchemicals.co.za Web: www.cjpchemicals.co.za
NEWS
In-cosmetics Global 2021 show moved to October REED EXHIBITIONS, THE organiser of the leading
and key stakeholders, we recognise that in order
face-to-face event with combined virtual solutions
global event for the personal care industry, has
to hold an international event there needs to be
in October.”
announced the new dates for the 2021 event.
more time to allow for the reopening of borders
In-cosmetics Global will now take place in Fira
Reed Exhibitions current priority is keeping
and lifting of travel restrictions. It is clear that the
the industry connected during this time, fostering
Barcelona, from 5 to 7 October 2021, moving the
industry needs to meet in person later in 2021.
collaboration, promoting new innovative solutions
show from the original April dates.
Large-scale events are subject to ever-changing
and helping to nurture critical business contacts,
national and local guidelines and regulations. Our
so watch this space for an in-cosmetics virtual
priority is to deliver an engaging and COVID-secure
experience coming in April 2021. •
Roziani Zulkifli, exhibition director at Reed Exhibitions, said: “After consulting with exhibitors
Iberchem to join the Croda family
made possible by this acquisition. Iberchem will remain an independent entity with extensive support from Croda, continuing to serve its customers while collaborating with Croda teams on cross selling and other revenue synergy opportunities. “We are pleased to join the Croda family and therefore strengthen our business offering,” says Ramón Fernández, CEO of Iberchem. “Not only are Croda and Iberchem’s activities complementary, but also both companies have grown and expanded their activities on a similar vision and core values. The preservation of the Iberchem identity, the reason why our customers place their trust in us on a daily basis, was of paramount importance for the management
The preservation of the Iberchem identity remains of paramount importance for the management team
team, and we are pleased how understanding Croda has been on this aspect. We are delighted to embark on this exciting new adventure.” Steve Foots, CEO of Croda, comments: “We have known the Iberchem Group’s
CRODA INTERNATIONAL (CRODA), a speciality chemicals company, has agreed
senior team and their business for many years. This fabulous organisation
to acquire Iberchem, a leading global fragrances and flavours company which
stands out from its peers with its strong exposure to emerging markets,
is headquartered in Spain, for a total consideration of €820m on a debt-free,
extensive portfolio of F&F products well placed to adapt to sustainability
cash-free basis. Iberchem has been majority owned by French investment firm,
trends, strong R&D capability and its consistent track record of year-on-year
Eurazeo since 2017.
growth over the last decade. By bringing our businesses together, we are
The complementary operations of the two companies, combined with an
creating a new, full-service offering to our customers in consumer care markets
ambitious growth synergy programme, is set to create additional value for
and a compelling platform from which to grow the combined business in the
customers. Many customers require both ingredients and fragrances and can
years ahead. We look forward to welcoming our new colleagues to Croda and
expect to benefit from collaborative thinking and full formulation development
leveraging our respective networks and expertise.” •
Achieve luminous colour with Ronastar Yellow Allure MERCK, A LEADING science and technology
Ronastar Yellow Allure can be used for matching
cosmetics and personal care applications. It is ideal
company, recently introduced Ronastar Yellow
all kinds of skin tones. It also supports a healthy
for all skin tones and for cosmetics, face powders,
Allure. The pigment creates an elegant yellowish
and natural glow, meeting market needs,” says
natural eyeshadows, setting powders and more,
matte effect and luminous colour. With its superb
Dagmar Kleefeld, global marketing manager for
particularly for facial cosmetics that enable a
performance, it provides a light-weight texture and
effect solutions at Merck. “And as a single pigment,
luminous complexion. This pigment complements
a marvellous velvety skin feel – enabled by the use
with Ronastar Yellow Allure elegant natural colour
the Ronastar Allure portfolio, which consists of the
of a sophisticated patented coating technology.
tones with subtle radiance can be created.”
three mass tone pigments: Ronastar Black Allure;
“Together with the other Allure pigments,
Ronastar Yellow Allure can be used in all colour
Ronastar Red Allure and Ronastar White Allure. •
6
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
NEWS
Symrise to acquire Sensient’s fragrances business unit SYMRISE HAS SIGNED a purchase agreement with
investments in the manufacturing site in Granada
portfolio. We are convinced that we will once
Sensient Technologies Corporation (Milwaukee,
which will be acquired.
more fully deliver on our strategic priorities with
USA) to acquire its fragrance and aroma chemicals
“We constantly screen strategic opportunities
this acquisition. We drive growth while at the
activities, which consist of a wide range of aroma
in continuation of our ambitions in certain growth
same time strengthen our leadership position in
molecules and fragrances from natural and
segments and make bold steps in challenging
fragrance ingredients and green chemistry,” says
renewable sources.
times. With Sensient’s activities, Symrise is
Dr Heinz-Jürgen Bertram, CEO of Symrise.
During fiscal year 2019, Sensient’s
expanding its range of fragrance ingredients and
The Sensient fragrances and aroma chemicals
fragrances business unit generated revenues of
will boost its competitiveness in the creation of
business unit has been part of Sensient’s Flavors
approximately €77 million.
fragrance compositions. In view of the increasing
& Extracts group. The unit holds longstanding
importance of natural and renewable raw
business relationships with local, regional and
its backward integration and broaden its
materials for the fragrance industry, the new
global customers from the consumer goods
leadership position as a supplier of fragrance
product range ideally complements our current
industry. It supplies out of manufacturing sites in
With the acquisition, Symrise will strengthen
ingredients which are
Spain and Mexico. The Sensient aroma
increasingly demanded
molecules and fragrance solutions are
for use, especially in
mainly derived from renewable raw
personal and home care
materials such as pine oil and citrus by-
products. Symrise will
products amongst others.
furthermore gain access
At the site in Granada, Symrise plans
to additional customers
to combine the R&D competencies and
and strengthen its
manufacturing capacities of Sensient’s
presence in EAME
fragrance and aroma chemicals activities
and Latin America
with parts of its own activities. Over
in particular. Going
a period of three years, targeted
forward, Symrise also
investments will be made to expand the
plans to strengthen its
Granada site and make it the second
manufacturing footprint
largest compounding facility in EAME for
in Spain with targeted
fragrance ingredients and compounds. •
Innovative AI-augmented laundry care fragrances
FIRMENICH HAS INTRODUCED the industry’s first laundry care fragrances that fuse AI with human creativity. Presented at a customer Sensorium in Hangzhou, China, during the China Cleaning Industry Association conference, the AI-augmented perfumer fragrances deliver breakthrough innovation for a wide range of laundry opportunities, including liquid detergents, fabric sprays and powder detergents.Ilaria Resta, president, global perfumery, comments: “Firmenich is reinventing fragrance design. Artificial intelligence, or AI, is now systematically empowering our perfumers to achieve their very best creations by identifying potential solutions across a complex combination of parameters, including olfaction, format, dosage, safety and sustainability.” Odile Pelissier, senior vice president, creation and development, global perfumery, adds: “Firmenich is using AI in augmented creation, prediction and optimisation to provide bespoke sensorial experiences faster and more efficiently than ever before.” A key milestone in the digital transformation of the global fragrance
and taste company, the laundry fragrances reveal a new paradigm for customers to create tailored fragrances. By using AI to generate exciting prototypes, perfumers interact with the technology, accelerate speed to market and create fragrances that suit the nuances of each category and market, to deliver an appropriate emotional experience for each consumer. The six AI-augmented perfumer fragrances for laundry care include: • Liquid detergent: A modern freshness inspired by body care fragrances with yuzu, a popular Chinese ingredient, and a second fruity and flowery feminine sensorial concept currently fashionable in China. • Fabric spray: A natural, sweet gourmand profile, proven popular in recent consumer research in China, as well as the same fruity and flowery liquid detergent scent adapted to a spray format. • Powder detergent: Technical freshness and performance with sparkling, zesty China citrus and a second citrus cologne scent concept. •
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
7
DIARY
DIARY
AFRICA
0
WHAT'S ON IN
2021
2021 SUBSCRIPTION FORM
January
To ensure you receive a copy of P&C Review Africa each quarter, please complete this coupon and return it, together with your payment to:
Cosme Tokyo
Circulation Department, NEW MEDIA, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
13 to 15 January Tokyo Big Sight, Japan www.cosmetokyo.jp/en
felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
Cannabinoid Derived Pharmaceuticals Summit
Full Name:........................................................................................... Designation: ........................................................................................
19 to 21 January London, UK / virtual event www.cdp-europe.com
Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:.................................
Aerosol & Dispensing Forum
Country: .............................................................................................. Tel: (
)....................................... Fax: (
) ..................................
20 to 21 January Paris Expo Porte de Versailles www.adfpcdparis.com
E-mail:................................................................................................. Main activity of company:................................................................... Approximate number of employees: ..................................................
February
VAT No: ............................................................................................... Signature:............................................................................................
Air Cargo Africa 2021
Method of payment:
❑
9 to 11 February Johannesburg, South Africa www.aircargoafrica.aero
Direct Deposit (Email this form together with a copy of your deposit slip to: felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za) Payee:
New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd
Acc No:
1069321540
Bank:
Biofach / Vivaness 2021
Nedbank Seapoint
17 to 19 February Nuremberg, Germany www.vivaness.de/en
Branch Code: 10-69-09-00
❑
March
Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: .............................................................................
Beauty Asia
Expiry Date: ................................................................................
1 to 3 March Singapore, Asia www.beautyasia.com.sg
Card Number: ............................................................................. CVC Number............................................................................... Date: ...........................................................................................
SAPHEX
Signature:....................................................................................
❑
24 to 25 March Johannesburg, South Africa www.saphex.co.za
TAX INVOICE REQUIRED
(Please tick) SOUTH AFRICA
FOREIGN
1 YEAR
R360.00 ❑
R443.00 ❑
2 YEAR
R587.00 ❑
N/A
(PRICES INCLUDE VAT @ 15%)
8
P C Africa | QUARTER 1 2020 | QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
PCHi China
24 to 26 March Shanghai, China www.pchi-china.com
11
NEWS
Nigeria Society of Cosmetic Chemists th becomes 50 IFSCC member THE INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION of
contributions of many, it is an honour
Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) is
to lead this pioneering effort as we work to
delighted to welcome the Society of Cosmetic
support the new burst of creativity and drive in
in charge when the newest society comes from
Scientists, Nigeria (NICOS) as its 50 th member
cosmetic science within Nigeria and the diaspora.”
Africa. It is a great sign of a positive globalisation
society. This follows the unanimous approval
NICOS is the third African Society to join
Cosmetic Chemists South Africa (Coschem). Piras adds: “I feel extremely proud of being
for our organisation. I truly hope to meet the
of an application by NICOS at the IFSCC 2020
IFSCC. The others are the Société Centre et Ouest
members of the Nigerian Society of Cosmetic
Council Meeting held virtually on
Africaine de Cosmetologie (SCOAC)/Society
Chemists next year at the IFSCC Conference in
20 October.
of Central and West Africa and the Society of
Cancun, Mexico.” •
“Please join me in welcoming NICOS to the IFSCC,” says (then) president of the IFSCC, Emanuele Piras. “This is the result of extraordinary work driven mainly by our friend and colleague, Grace Abamba, who has devoted all her energy to making this happen.” Inspired by the rapidly expanding Nigerian cosmetics market, founders Abamba (president, NICOS) and Olusola Ojo (vice president, NICOS) formally registered the society earlier this year. Abamba comments: "NICOS is proud to become the 50 th member of the IFSCC. This milestone has been achieved at a turbulent time for Nigeria, but it is important to celebrate this as we hope for a brighter future. Personal care and beauty are really important to Nigerians and this is reflected in the growing value of the market. With the
Members of NICOS with Grace Abamba (president) pictured fifth from the left and Olusola Ojo (vice president) third from left
Johnson & Johnson looks to Aspen to manufacture investigational COVID-19 vaccine candidate ASPEN IS PLEASED to announce that one of its wholly-owned South African subsidiaries, Pharmacare Limited (which trades as Aspen Pharmacare), has entered into a preliminary agreement with Janssen Pharmaceuticals and Janssen Pharmaceutica NV, two of the Janssen Pharmaceutical Companies of Johnson & Johnson, for the technical transfer and proposed commercial manufacture of their COVID-19 vaccine candidate, Ad26.COV2-S. The vaccine candidate is currently undergoing clinical trials. Aspen Pharmacare will perform formulation, filling and secondary packaging of the vaccine for supply to Johnson & Johnson. This agreement is still subject to the successful completion of the relevant technology transfer activities and finalisation of certain commercial manufacturing terms.
Aspen Pharmacare has agreed to provide the necessary capacity required for the manufacture of Johnson & Johnson’s COVID-19 vaccine candidate at its existing sterile facility in Port Elizabeth, South Africa. Aspen has invested in excess of R3 billion in the facility together with the high technology equipment and systems that will be used to manufacture state-of-the-art sterile drugs and vaccines, packaged into vials, ampoules and pre-filled syringes. The production area where it is intended that the vaccine candidates will be manufactured has capacity to produce more than 300 million doses per annum. The facility has accreditation from a range of international regulatory authorities and provides lifesaving medicines to both the domestic and international markets. It was part of the first flagship investments
announced at the president’s inaugural South African Investment conference. Stephen Saad, Aspen group chief executive, comments: “We have invested globally in our sterile capability and are determined to play a role in the manufacture of vaccines to add to our proud track record of making contributions to humanity in times of global pandemics. This has included, inter alia, being a leading global supplier for antiretrovirals for the treatment of HIV/AIDS, multi-drug-resistant-TB products and COVID-19-related treatments such as anaesthetics and dexamethasone. We have been selected as a vaccine partner by Johnson & Johnson and this project will receive priority focus. We are particularly pleased to be given the opportunity of providing assistance for patients in need across the world from our South African base.” •
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
9
ETHNIC CARE
Think silicones,
think clean and safe beauty for all There is growing consumer interest in clean beauty, and hair care is finally catching up to the trend. According to Grant Industries, silicones are ideal clean beauty ingredients. Along with their safety, enhanced performance of active ingredients, compatibility with other materials including naturals, and their unmatched sensory acceptance, silicones are extremely valuable and desired for cosmetic formulations.
I
n the hair care category, shampoo bars and other waterless products are growing in popularity because they reduce the use of plastic packaging and are lighter to ship,
reducing their environmental impact. Progress is also being made to reduce sulphates, synthetic fragrances and other non-essential ingredients in hair care product formulations. Besides the basic cosmetic products, silicones are used extensively in OTC, baby care, medical applications and products for sensitive skin due to their non-irritating characteristics. Silicones are also not animal-derived and therefore approved by vegans as cruelty-free materials. They are not related to palm and RSPO issues and are
Table 1: Coconut co-wash 2-in-1 solid shampoo
Phase Ingredient INCI
% w/w
A AminoSensyl HC Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicyl Valinate Esylate 4.00% Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter 3.30% GransenseTC 21X/C Triheptanoin & Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) 3.50% Polyurethane-100 Vegarol 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol 30.00% Virgin Coconut Oil Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Seed Oil 5.00% B Citric Acid Citric Acid 0.20% ProCondition 22 Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine 2.00% Elfan AT84 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate 32.00% Amisoft LS-11(F) Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate 20.00% 100.00%
This minimalistic yet luxurious 2-in-1 solid shampoo gently cleanses and conditions the hair in one step with a non-stripping creamy foam. GransenseTC 21X/C leaves the hair silky and soft while improving the creaminess of the foam
certified as GMO-free. The types of silicones used in cosmetic products are supported by scientific
care products. These elastomers support a wide
Triheptanoin (and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and)
research and are considered extremely safe for
range of free-from demands when it comes to
Polyurethane-100) – are low-polar translucent
consumer use. Silicones are effective, inert and
formulation design, including water-free, quat-free,
gels, vegetable alkane and ester fluids available in
versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in
paraben-free, mineral oil-free, sulphate-free,
medium to non-volatile options.
numerous ways.
GMO-free, petrolatum-free, PEG-free, TEA-free,
Ecocert-COSMOS-approved, these clean,
phthalate-free, gluten-free, and fragrance-free.
sustainable, transparent, versatile and formulator-
CLEAN HAIR CARE
They are also 100% naturally-derived, 100% bio-
friendly elastomers are compatible with many hair
In line with the clean hair care trend, Grant
based and 100% bio-degradable ingredients.
care ingredients, such as natural oils; waxes; fatty
Industries – represented by IMCD throughout
The Gransense elastomers – GransenseTC
alcohols; quats; anionic, cationic and non-ionic
Southern Africa – has launched two new, next-
18X/C (INCI: Coco Caprylate/Caprate (and)
surfactants; and commonly used preservatives.
generation Gransense elastomers, which allow
Triehptanoin (and) C9-C12 Alkane (and)
They are also heat stable and can be used in hot or
formulators to design clean and sustainable hair
Polyurethane-100), and GransenseTC 21X/C (INCI:
cold processes and in different cosmetic formats,
10
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
ETHNIC CARE
Table 2: Love my curves hair perfector leave-on cream
Phase Ingredient INCI % w/w A Water Water (Aqua) 64.40% ProCondition 22 Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine 2.00% Glycerin USP Glycerin 1.00% B Shea Butter Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) butter 1.00% GransenseTC 21X/C Triheptanoin & Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) 5.00% Polyurethane-100 Vegarol 1618 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00% Citric Acid USP Citric Acid 0.30% Solagum Tara Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum 0.30% Argan Oil Argan Oil Virgin 2.00% Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 2.00% Vegelight1214 LC Coconut Alkanes/Coco-Caprylate Caprate 6.00% Lexgard Natural Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl 1.00% 100.00%
Did you know? The organic portion of Gransense elastomers may migrate to the surface of plastic packaging, behaving as a plasticiser altering the shape of the packaging as well as finished product performance. To avoid this phenomenon, it is recommended to use glass packaging or co-extruded thick wall polyester, polyethylene terephthalate or phenolic-type plastics where applicable.
clean beauty standards – of course, we’re talking about silicones. In skin care formulations, silicones offer a variety of benefits. As the name suggests, a texturiser can improve the texture of a formulation
When tested on textured hair tresses, the hair perfector leave-on cream leaves the hair silky and soft. The control is pictured on the left and the TC21X/leave-on on the right
by reducing the stickiness or tackiness of formulas with high oil loading, particularly relevant with SPF
The yeast (Saccharomyces) has been around
formulas. It can also reduce tack from carbomer
since ancient times and is used in winemaking,
gels; improve matte and soft focus/blur effects;
baking, brewing and as a nutritional supplement.
impart a soft, velvety afterfeel; reduce drag or
Grant Industries also uses this yeast in a bioreactor
improve slip, and reduce drying time.
production facility for the fermentation of Granpowder BBP-700, using sugars (i.e. glucose), which clearly fits the sustainable supply chain
including liquids, emulsions, anhydrous, solids and dispersions. Multiple effects are possible with the Gransense elastomers, such as moisturising and repairing sensations, a soft and smooth afterfeel, and matte or shine effects. They also meet the increasing demand for natural formulations. See Tables 1 and 2 for inspiring formulation examples of both a solid
Silicones are effective, inert and versatile ingredients that benefit skin and hair in numerous ways
Polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) as an energy source, providing many of the benefits of Granpowder BBP700 along with its natural credentials. The Lauroyl Lysine (amino acid derivative), which is produced from feedstock using a biobased process, is well-known to give excellent sensory properties. It can also improve the water resistance/long wear properties of formulations, and it has a flat, crystalline structure and limited
and cream format, which incorporate the Gransense elastomers.
model demanded by customers. The yeast creates
Granpowder BBP-700 (INCI: Saccharomyces
soft focus effects. Its spherical shape gives great
Ferment (and) Lauroyl Lysine), is a 100% naturally-
soft focus effects while it is classified outside of the
CLEAN SKIN CARE
derived, bio-based powder consisting of a fused
ECHA microplastic definition, and is bio-based and
Imagine there is an inert, non-reactive ingredient
fermentation and amino acid derivative composite.
bio-degradable.
to aid in the aesthetics of formulas by providing
It is GMO-free, COSMOS-approved, ECHA-
incredible sensorial aspects without irritating the
compliant and has proven biodegradability via
improvement to skin and body care products, colour
skin. This ingredient is also safe and complies with
ISO standards.
cosmetics and sun care formulations with a cost-
Granpowder BBP-700 provides sensory
effective low-use level between 1% and 5%. It has particle size average of 2um to 10um. In sun care applications, Granpowder BBP-700 can remove the greasy feel from organic UV filters, and in anti-ageing products it offers soft focus properties. The powder complements naturallyderived Gransense elastomer technologies and it is suggested the two be used together in formulations for optimal performance. •
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com Grant Industries – www.grantinc.com
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
11
ETHNIC CARE
Rebalancing African skin Developing customised personal care products for African skin is part of BASF’s overall strategy to offer consumer-oriented solutions to the sub-Saharan African beauty industry. We spoke to Dr Torsten Clarius, business development active ingredients, BASF Personal Care and Nutrition, about Bix’Activ – a sebumregulating active ingredient proven effective on dark skin.
H
OW IS THE PERSONAL CARE MARKET
to their specific skin needs – and that they are
IN AFRICA DEVELOPING?
willing and able to pay for it.
Dr Clarius: While the global beauty and
Nevertheless, it is important to note that
care market is dynamic as a whole, this
black consumers around the world often feel
Dr Torsten Clarius says there is a demand for customised solutions for dark skin types
WHAT IS BASF’S SOLUTION?
is especially true of Africa. The demand for personal
underrepresented by cosmetic brands, leading to
Dr Clarius: BASF offers several active ingredients
care products is increasing rapidly in this part of
the demand for customised solutions for their
that target oily skin. However, we recently
the world. This development is driven by several
skin types.
developed an active ingredient called Bix’Activ,
factors, not least of which a growing middle class with access to higher disposable incomes.
It is essential that sebum-regulating actives do not impact the skin’s natural hydration balance
WHAT CONSTITUTES AFRICAN SKIN?
which demonstrates outstanding efficiency. In clinical studies on Asian volunteers, we could
Dr Clarius: By way of example, African consumers
prove that just 0.25% Bix’Activ reduced sebum
are generally much less susceptible to developing
secretion by 46% after four weeks. This effect was
wrinkles than Caucasians. This is likely due to the
more pronounced after eight weeks of application,
higher amount of melanin in the epidermis, which
leading to a 62% reduction. These results far
offers the dermal structures better protection
outperformed the placebo formulation – which did
against damage from UV rays. With this in mind,
not contain the active ingredient.
the anti-ageing segment of cosmetics is rather less lucrative among African consumers. By contrast, African skin types tend to be
CAN YOU ENSURE BIX’ACTIV HAS THE SAME EFFECT ON BLACK SKIN?
less hydrated than others. In response, the skin
Dr Clarius: Even though we believe many actives will
seeks to compensate for this dryness through an
be effective independent of skin type, we wanted
overproduction of sebum, which leads to oiliness
to prove this hypothesis. So, we included cells from
and shininess. Common solutions on the market
black skin donors in our cell culture-based assays
to become home to some of the world’s fastest-
are often not suitable to counteract this concern,
for oily skin. These simplified systems help to shed
growing economies. Furthermore, as the world’s
and the regulation of sebum secretion tends to
more light on characteristic biological processes in
second most populous continent, Africa is projected
result in the skin becoming even drier. For African
the skin and to avoid failure when proceeding to the
to account for around 20% of the global population
skin types in particular, it is essential that sebum-
clinical study phase.
by 2025. This means that a huge number of people
regulating actives do not impact the skin’s natural
need effective personal care products customised
hydration balance.
Over the next few years, Africa is expected
12
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
The skin cells responsible for the production of sebum are known as sebocytes. The lipid droplets
ETHNIC CARE generated by these specialised cells can be
volunteers with a lipid index above 100µg/cm2
observed under a microscope. Both the number
were considered for the study.
and size of these droplets demonstrate their
During the four-week study, oiliness
role in the hyper-secretion of sebum. We
decreased by 44%, which is almost exactly
showed that Bix’Activ significantly reduces the
the same value achieved in the previously
number of lipid droplets in sebocytes of black
mentioned study involving Asian volunteers.
skin by 28%.
The reduction in sebum secretion also visibly mattified the skin. Gloss decreased by 11%, as
These are impressive results – but they
measured using a device called a Glossymeter.
were obtained on cell cultures. Were you also
The Glossymeter correlates directly reflected
able to prove the efficacy of Bix’Activ
light with gloss. Interestingly, hydration
on volunteers?
remained unchanged after the treatment period
Dr Clarius: Yes. The results encouraged
– so Bix’Activ kept skin dryness at bay.
us to conduct a placebo-controlled study
Bix’Activ was even able to reduce
THE
Buyer’sguide specifically on African skin. The study,
irregularities and imperfections. This is
which was performed in Mauritius in 2018,
clearly visible on digital photographs of the
consisted of 29 volunteers aged between
volunteers’ faces.
19 and 40. All volunteers had very dark skin,
The results confirm that Bix’Activ helps
corresponding to a phototype between V
reduce sebum production and improves the
and VI, with faces that appeared oily and
skin’s mattifying effect while preserving
shiny. This visual evaluation was confirmed
hydration – making it perfectly suited to the
by means of an objective measurement. Only
specific needs of African consumers.•
2017/2018
Illustrative pictures of skin shininess and oiliness before and after a fourweek treatment with 0.25% Bix’Activ. Left: before treatment (D0). Right: after four weeks (D28)
BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com
THE
Buyer’sguide
2020/2021
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1
2018/05/07 3:09 PM
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
13
ETHNIC CARE
The beauty of
natural cosmetic waxes More and more consumers are ditching chemicals in favour of a more natural approach to skin and hair care. Natural ingredients, such as waxes and butters, are growing in popularity as a result. In line with this trend, KahlWax has combined two fruits for its new product launch – orange wax. By Abby Vorster
Did you know? Market research firm Euromonitor International estimates that $1.1bn worth of shampoos, relaxers and hair lotions are sold annually in South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon. The dry hair industry, which includes weaves, extensions and wigs, is also worth an estimated annual value of $6bn.
are among the most versatile multi-functional ingredients available. They improve the texture of a formulation, increase viscosity, add shine and improve the overall stability of a product.
Derived from orange peel, KahlWax 6698 Orange is a natural fruit wax for cosmetics
N
The company, which is a leading specialist in natural
atural is in; it’s what consumers want. A
NATURAL COSMETIC WAXES
waxes, is represented throughout Southern Africa
quick Google search reveals extensive
Natural beauty brands love using natural
by Savannah Fine Chemicals.
results featuring blogs and brand
cosmetic waxes in their formulations. Ask any
websites dedicated to natural hair and
formulator and they will say that natural waxes
skin care. If you take a look at Instagram, on this social media platform the hashtag #naturalhair has been used more than 27.9 million times. While the natural hair care movement is more established than natural skin care, there is immense interest in both these types of products. The natural beauty movement first started as a result of health concerns among consumers in terms of the use of chemical products. This saw a shift in product preferences in favour of natural hair and skin care products. The change has compelled many supply chains and hair and skin care product manufacturers to expand their product portfolios with natural offerings. Marini Naturals, an African hair care brand, claims to be ‘the first quality natural hair care line of Kenya and Africa’. Launched in 2015, the brand offers moisture-rich products that make curls manageable and a wide range of hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, hair growth oils, curling butter, curling gels and moisturising mist sprays.
14
According to KahlWax, natural cosmetic waxes are ‘beauty’ and ‘care’ provided by Mother Nature.
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
KahlWax’s newest speciality is a natural fruit wax derived from orange peel. A rather unexpected
Table 1: Orange creamsicle hair milk (HC-LEN-003-11)
Phase Ingredient INCI % A Water Aqua ad 100 Lexquat C-PF Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride 5.00 Varisoft EQ 100 Quaternium-98 1.00 B Arlacel 165 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate 3.00 Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 4.00 KahlWax 6698 Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Cera, 3.00 Orange Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera Emulium Kappa 2 Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl- 1.00 3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Apricot Kernel Oil Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil 2.00 (refined) Miglyol 8810 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 2.00 C Unicert Orange Aqua, CI 15510 0.60 K7011-J (0.10 %) Orange Ginger Parfum 0.30 NaTrue Preservative q.s. Featuring KahlWax 6698 Orange, this conditioner with vitalising citrus scent protects and nourishes hair and scalp. The rinse-off formula detangles and softens strands for beautiful, shiny, healthylooking hair
ETHNIC CARE
Natural waxes are among the most versatile multi-functional ingredients available
protects and adds shine. Hair milks are designed with oils, butters or waxes and other moisturising extracts, combined into a lightweight, milkytextured formula. Using KahlWax 6698 Orange as the star ingredient, KahlWax designed an orange creamsicle hair milk that nourishes the scalp while detangling and softening hair strands for beautiful, shiny, healthy-looking hair. See Table 1 for the formulation guide. The effect of KahlWax 6698 Orange on hair gloss was determined in a half-side comparison
utilisation of one of the world’s most popular citrus
Rhus verniciflua tree. Due to its unique structure,
fruits, the raw material is paired with berry wax
study against a placebo, using a rinse-off
it is able to reinforce crystal structures, increasing
– another natural fruit wax – to create a product
conditioner formulated with 3% of 6698. After a
the texture and hardness of KahlWax 6698 Orange
that combines skin-caring benefits with texture-
10-minute application time, hair was washed and
to ease its useability. Berry wax also improves
enhancing and stabilising properties.
air-dried. Gloss was determined at the hair roots
sensorial attributes and works as a refatting agent.
and lengths using a glossymeter. The study showed
KahlWax 6698 Orange is a versatile cosmetic
that KahlWax 6698 Orange was able to enhance the
raw material with a distinctive citrus scent. It is
CARING NATURAL HAIR MILK
suitable for hair and skin care products, where it
Textured hair goes hand in hand with the
provides smoothness, combability and shine. In
natural beauty movement as consumers who
colour cosmetics applications, it improves gloss and
quality, vegan and meets the requirements of
wear their curly or coily hair naturally use an array
colour brilliance.
current natural cosmetic standards.•
of natural hair care products to care for and
The semi-solid orange peel wax surrounds the fruit, protecting it against environmental influences
hair’s overall shine. KahlWax 6698 Orange is of certified halal
manage their curls. Hair milks are among these in-demand products
such as high temperatures and insects. Berry wax is
and are a cross between a leave-in conditioner and
a soft, pale wax derived from berry fruit peels of the
a lightweight rinse-off treatment, which detangles,
KahlWax – www.kahlwax.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
®
THE VERSATILITY OF THE ORANGE Our new KahlWax 6698 Orange combines the emollient character of orange peel wax with the texture enhancing and stabilizing properties of berry wax, which makes it very versatile. It is perfectly suited for hair and skin care products, as it conditions, provides smoothness and shine. 6698 is also recommended for color cosmetic formulations, where it enhances pay-off, gloss, and color brilliance. www.kahlwax.com
info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za
2020-11 Ad_Savannah_Q4_KahlWax.indd 1
17.11.20 10:43
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
15
ETHNIC CARE
A PARTNERSHIP MADE IN AFRICA
In the heart of KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, a unique partnership between the rural community of Dakeni and Zuplex Botanicals exists. It ticks all the boxes of environmental sustainability and efficacy as well as community involvement and development.
Z
uplex Botanicals (Zuplex) is a
“Accessing and harnessing this wealth of plant
manufacturer of clinically tested active
life has led to the creation of a unique relationship
ingredients extracted from African
between the Dakeni village people and Zuplex,”
botanicals. It is primarily engaged in the
Whittington Banda explains.
cultivation of botanicals, product research and
The rural village of about 300 inhabitants is
development and the manufacturing of extracts,
found at the heart of KwaZulu-Natal. Most of the
although it also does research and product
residents still reside in traditional huts alongside
development in the nutrition and flavour sectors.
the uThukela River. The village has no piped water
It is well-known that the African continent has
and it only received electricity for the first time in
a rich biodiversity of plants. South Africa alone is
2018. There are also limited job opportunities and
home to almost 25% of the world’s plant species,
access to education.
many of which have unique qualities and chemical profiles. According to Zuplex CEO, Gill Whittington Banda, it is this biodiversity which lies at the heart of Zuplex Botanicals’ business. However, she says the way these species are harvested and the impact on the environment as well as community involvement are key to the company’s business model.
It is well-known that the African continent has a rich biodiversity of plants
AFRICAN BOTANICAL EXTRACTS FROM ZUPLEX
• Kigafirm: A Kigelia africana fruit extract that targets skin firmness and elasticity. • Atriclear: An extract of Athrixia phylicoides with a clinically proven impact on skin smoothness and the enhancement of skin firmness and elasticity. • Miramor: A Moringa oleifera leaf extract with a direct effect on skin barrier repair. It also minimises dry and scaly skin cells and protects against blue light pollution. • Myravive: An extract of Myrothanmus flabellifolius, also known as the resurrection plant, aimed at rapid skin hydration. • Rosacalm: An extract of Devil’s Claw (Harpagophytum procumbens) for inflammation, redness and promoting skin calming. • Bao-Active C: Derived from the pulp of baobab fruit, this extract has pronounced anti-oxidant properties while the complex set of additional nutrients promotes rapid and sustained cell regeneration. • Green Rooibos: An extract of Aspalathus linearis (redbush), aimed at adding smoothness and brilliance to hair. • Cannavive: An extract of the Cannabis sativa, aimed at combating acne, reducing skin inflammation and with anti-ageing benefits.
USING AFRICAN BOTANICALS TO ALLEVIATE POVERTY Recognising an opportunity to harness the power of
the priority of the project team has been to uplift
African botanicals whilst uplifting the community,
the community through the payment of wages to
the Edakeni Muthi Futhi Trust was founded in 2008
the site team.
by the late Isaac Banda. “The term ‘muthi futhi’ comes from the
Long term, as the project grows and moves from self-sustaining to being more profitable,
Zulu language, meaning ‘more medicine’. It is a
the plan is to invest and upgrade the current
community-owned social enterprise established
infrastructure and operations, ultimately having an
with the dual objective of cultivating and processing
even greater impact on the lives of the community
indigenous medicinal plants and of creating jobs
of Dakeni.
for the women of Dakeni to alleviate poverty and improve skills,” explains Whittington Banda.
The village of Dakeni
16
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
Muthi Futhi currently employs 12 women who work part time on the 17ha site. Since its inception,
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE PARTNERSHIP On its own, the Edakeni Muthi Futhi Trust has limited power as a primary producer, which limits
ETHNIC CARE
All its cosmetic extracts are COSMOS-approved
including sourcing, manufacture, packaging and
and halaal-certified. Furthermore, it operates
transportation. This includes reducing energy
a fully-certified FSSC22000 production facility,
consumption while minimising and managing
providing customers with a high level of
waste responsibly.
quality assurance. Zuplex works to ensure that all botanical material, whether cultivated or harvested, is fully traceable, and that the supply of each species is managed to ensure sustainability. It has a Biotrade and Bioprospecting permit issued by the South
Muthi Futhi site team working in the nursery
African Department of Environmental Affairs, covering around 80 indigenous plant species.
future development. Through its partnership
The company also recently signed agreements
with the biotech company Zuplex – which has
with the San and Khoisan Councils of Indigenous
the ability to research, develop and manufacture
Knowledge Holders, associated with the
botanical extracts for the African and international
following plants:
cosmetics industries – there is opportunity for
• Aspalathus linearis
growth and expansion both commercially and for
• Hoodia gordonii
the community.
• Agathosma betulina/Agathosma crenulate
Muthi Futhi is a founding shareholder in
• Sceletium tortuosum
Zuplex, and currently holds a 32% shareholding
• Myrothamnus flabellifolius
in the company. It benefits both from sales
• Harpagophytum procumbens/
of botanical material to Zuplex, and (in the future) from dividends that can be reinvested in other development initiatives in Dakeni, such
Harpagophytum zeyherii.
Myrothamnus flabellifolius, which is currently being propagated by Zuplex
Royalties are paid to the councils on all the sales of products incorporating these species.
as equipment and infrastructure to increase
“Zuplex fits in perfectly with Botanichem’s focus on plant-derived ingredients which support
productivity and contribute to other community
SECURING THE FUTURE
sustainable products, fair-trade and the global
initiatives. These include clean drinking water, food
Zuplex is currently trialling the cultivation of certain
trend towards organic and safe products,” says
gardens, schools and crèches.
species including Myrothamnus flabellifolius
Botanichem’s Robyn Brown.
and Mondia whitei, which are rare, threatened or
“Aside from their selection of quality African
WORKING WITH NATURE
endangered and under threat from overharvesting
botanical extracts, the company’s community
Zuplex believes that a sustainable global economy
in the wild.
involvement through Muthi Futhi underpins
must combine long-term profitability with environmental care. “Sustainability and impact on the environment
Together with the Durban Botanical Gardens in South Africa, Zuplex is looking at advanced tissue
a shared belief in environmental and social sustainability,” says Brown.
culture micro-propagation of targeted species such
Zuplex is represented locally by Botanichem. For
are key drivers of the Zuplex business,” says
as Mondia whitei and Siphonochilus aethiopicus, to
more information contact Robyn Brown, by sending
Whittington Banda, pointing out that the
counteract overharvesting in the wild.
an email to info@botanichem.co.za. •
company complies with national and international
Both Zuplex and Muthi Futhi follow the
bioprospecting regulations under the framework
principles of sustainable agriculture by not using
of the Nagoya Protocol. The company also ensures
any herbicides or pesticides. They also strive to
that all its own suppliers are compliant.
manage environmental effects across all processes,
Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Zuplex Botanicals – www.zuplex.co.za
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
17
PERSONAL CARE
Did you know?
Achieve double the emollience with half the emollients
Oils are an integral part of all cosmetic formulations. The oily phase in cream plays an essential role in the perceived moisturised sensation on skin. Emollients can act as occlusive agents, preventing TEWL, as well as influence the perceived comfort sensation by maintaining a soft and smooth skin feel. However, several of these oils are classified as persistent and can accumulate in the environment. The refining process in oil production can also generate significant waste.
F
or a more sustainable approach, there is a
The key ingredients in this concept are Easynov
need to reduce the amount of oils whilst
(Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xyloside and
giving the same perception of emollience.
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) and a thickening/
This is where Seppic’s innovative Geltrap
stabilising polymer Sepiplus 400 (Polyacrylate-13
technology is interesting. It not only reduces the
and Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20) or
need for oil, but also is a cold process technology
Sepinov EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium
bringing significant savings in energy and
Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer).
processing time. Geltrap produces gel-in-oil emulsions
Unlike regular emulsions that require high shear, Geltrap can be formulated with low or high shear.
composed of a high internal gelled water
Emulsification can be done with planetary or rotator
phase thickened by a polymer, and a low external
stator agitation or by combining the two. This
oil phase stabilised by a liquid xylolipidic
flexibility gives formulators a choice based on their
emulsifying system. The emulsion is produced
needs in terms of texture and available equipment.
by mixing the gelled and oil phases containing
The low-shear process creates a relatively fluid
the emulsifier. Gel droplets, fragmented during
texture, while high shear creates a relatively thick
mechanical agitation, are stabilised in the
texture. The emulsions obtained from either of the
oil phase.
processes are stable.
Figure 1: Energy consumption for manufacturing 5kg of different types of emulsions with a pilot TRIMIX (VMI)
18
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
Geltrap is formulated using a cold process. The production of 5kg of Geltrap with low shear can save up to 98% energy and 78% production time. This is equivalent to a reduction of 4.6kg of CO2 emission*. The environmental impact reduction is also effective when compared to a coldmanufactured w/o emulsion. Geltrap saves up to 74% and 64% of production time (see Figures 1 and 2).
TAILORED GELTRAP INNOVATIONS FOR AFRICA Here are some ideas specific to the African market utilising this unique technology. These and several others can be explored on Seppic website. For prototypes, samples or customising to your needs, please approach CJP Chemicals.
• EU07529A hair conditioning Geltrap – the fresh, light and cushioned Geltrap texture makes this conditioner easy to apply. It also detangles and nourishes hair without weighing it down. The conditioning effect of the technology is patented; the texture helps to detangle hair from the roots to the tips, while the detangling force is homogeneous along the hair strand. • EU07068B sub-zero Geltrap body care – this thirst-quenching body care formulation offers a very fresh texture and is easily absorbed without leaving a sticky effect, even with 14% of glycerine. • EU07536 innovative caring perfume – this formulation renews the perfuming ritual. Hydrating and formulated without ethanol, the fragranced cream is intended for a local application and avoids skin dryness. Geltrap technology allows the obtention of a stable highly-fragranced cream without scent denaturation. Studies show that it is more long lasting in comparison to ethanolic eau de toilette or an hydroalcoholic gel when tested on a panel of 27 experts in a co-development project with Expressions Parfumées. • EU07417 Geltrap makeup remover – a super effective makeup remover cream, the product is formulated with Emogreen L19, which enables makeup removal with delicacy and provides a soft and comfortable finish. In this Geltrap formula, Emogreen L19 shows better makeup removal efficacy than isododecane with proven efficacy in lipstick, foundation and kohl removal.
PERSONAL CARE
KEY PROPERTIES Because of its continuous oil phase, Geltrap systematically achieves water-resistant formulas. The water resistance was evaluated on several Geltrap formulations using an in vitro method developed by Seppic. It measures the weight loss of the emulsion film after two 20-minute immersions in a water bath, separated by 20 minutes drying time. The greater the weight loss after two immersions, the less water-resistant the product. All formulas showed <50% weight loss qualifying as water-resistant formulas. A comparison was done between different types of emulsions with similar compositions (gel-cream, classic o/w emulsion and classic w/o emulsion). The capacity of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) reduction was evaluated using an in vitro method developed by Seppic. The result shows that Geltrap containing 10% oil achieves the same TEWL reduction capability as a cream-gel or a classic o/w or w/o emulsion containing 20% oil (see Figure 3).
Figure 4: Sensorial analysis on the perceived emollient sensation of different types of emulsions The study was concluded with a sensory
Geltrap strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier
analysis on the perceived sensation of emolliency.
and leaves the same feeling of emolliency on
Indeed, there is a correlation between the TEWL
skin as conventional emulsions, yet with half the
and skin emolliency (i.e. softness and suppleness).
oil consumption. This is an optimised ecological
Reduced TEWL promotes the feeling of emolliency.
concept that uses the minimum amount of oil for
This time, four emulsions from the previous test
optimal results and maximum respect for
were evaluated by 12 panellists trained according
the environment.
to a classification protocol. The emulsions were classified from the lowest emolliency to the
CONCLUSION
highest, without ratings. Once again, the results
Available in Southern Africa from CJP Chemicals,
showed that Geltrap with 10% oil content provides
Geltrap is a unique ecological emulsion concept that
a perceived emolliency equivalent to conventional
meets a number of criteria sought by formulators
emulsions containing double the oil phase
and consumers. It is easily distinguished from other
(see Figure 4).
o/w and w/o emulsions and offers an exceptional skin feel contrasted between freshness and a cushion effect. This is thanks to the softness of the emulsifier Easynov and the cushioning effect of the polymer Sepinov EMT 10 or Sepiplus 400. Geltrap retains all the benefits of continuous oil phase emulsions, including water resistance and TEWL reduction. Compared to other types of emulsions, it strengthens the skin’s lipid barrier and offers a perceptible sensation of emollience by using half the oil phase. The technology is formulated using a cold process that works well with low or high shear. This simple and flexible process is highly respectful of the environment, saving considerable energy and manufacturing time. It easily adapts to all situations and conditions of industrial production.
Figure 2: Time consumption for manufacturing 5kg of different types of emulsions with a pilot TRIMIX (VMI) Ethical sourcing of Helichrysum in Bosnia and Herzegovina
With this innovative emulsion technology. CJP Chemicals and its international principal, Seppic are bringing sustainability to formulators. Seppic has a Gold rating from EcoVadis, which provides holistic sustainability ratings service for companies, delivered via a global cloud-based SaaS platform. •
*Average of the 27 European Union countries (339g CO2/kWh), according to Chiffres clés du climat France et Monde édition 2013 published by www.statistiques.developpement-durable. gouv.fr. 4.6kg CO2 is equivalent to driving 20km to 25km with a small gasoline car.
Figure 3: In vitro study on TEWL of different types of emulsions
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Seppic – www.seppic.com/en
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
19
HAIR CARE PERSONAL CARE
IN PURSUIT OF NATURAL PERFECTION African beauty consumers are looking for more natural, safe and trustworthy products than those made with synthetic ingredients. Helen Playdon of The Care Co. explores the trends that are challenging the composition of personal care products and the origin of ingredients.
I
n Africa, women scan product composition to look for hero ingredients while strong attention is also being paid to customised products. In addition, the sales of beauty care products are likely to be stimulated by the young population, as 60% of Africans are under the age of 25 years.
Product tailoring is key to winning the African battle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; provided the products remain affordable.1 COLOUR COSMETICS Natural colour for lips coming from a vegan, cruelty-free, high-performance red pigment offering presents a sustainable alternative to synthetic red pigments. Sustainably-sourced and crafted from the Chinese red radish
Raphanus sativus L., whose roots are naturally rich in coloured anthocyanin metabolites, the high content of natural-origin ingredients does not compromise the performance of the pigment on shade, intensity and stability. It delivers a better coverage in comparison to a synthetic benchmark red pigment in products designed for lips, and together with its antioxidant properties, the pigment protects the fragile lip skin from free radicals. Natural nail polish is becoming very popular due to claims of 75% to 85% naturality, sustainability and safety. Latest technical innovations provide intense colour and a glossy finish while being longer-lasting than previous prototypes. SKIN AND HAIR CARE The clean beauty label is a consumer-driven movement, demanding safe and transparent ingredients. With such a young population demographic in Africa, one observes that
Personal and Home Care Polymer Manufactures Opacifiers Conditioners Sensory modifiers Rheology modifiers Emulsifiers
preserving the planet is important to this demographic because it makes sense that people work with nature, and not destroy it. They equate value in a product with environmentally-friendly credentials.2 Their buying habits are well-informed and highly selective with purchasing decisions. Natural, green, alternative and reflected transparency in brand offerings are key. Healthy, natural-looking skin is of prime importance across all generations in Africa. A total of 93% of consumers think that science should be inspired by nature.3 Obtained by green fractionation technology from the natural essential oil of the wintergreen plant, natural and pure salicylic acid provides benefits in dermo-purification for skin, and anti-dandruff for hair care. It is a safe and effective peeling agent for exfoliation, and it has anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial benefits, making it an effective active for acne-prone skin and a synergistic active for the treatment of dandruff. Designed as a multi-ingredient clean beauty cocktail of salicylic acid
Chempack Industries | Contact: Linda Thieme 083 600 0167 / 064 610 2736 | Email: linda@cpack.co.za Website: www.cpack.co.za
20
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
with powdered hyaluronic acid, this biodegradable exfoliator with retinol is a water-free formulation that is mild enough for sensitive skin. By adding a few drops of water, the cocktail turns into a foaming milk cleanser that brightens the complexion.
PERSONAL CARE
HAIR CARE AND HAIR GROWTH A high percentage of women are looking for natural alternatives to care for their hair.5 Wheat peptides are a clean and sustainable alternative to cationic guar, which is a key detangling ingredient for hair care. The peptides act as a conditioner to smooth and detangle the hair, significantly improving the combing of wet hair and smoothness versus cationic guar. They can be formulated in a leave-in conditioning spray with hyaluronic acid, buruti and moringa oils, and saffron flower and guarana extract to strengthen and repair hair. Hair loss is a common affliction for many. Research has shown the deregulation of two major hair follicle cell types are involved in androgenic alopecia, namely human fibroblast dermal papilla SCALP CARE
cells and outer root sheath cells. An active blend
Living in urban areas, the scalp is weakened and
containing dihydroquercetin glucoside and
more fragile due to all sorts of external aggressors,
epigallocatechin glucoside has been shown to
such as pollution and intense heat. An itchy or
stimulate human fibroblast dermal papilla cells and
irritated scalp is a growing concern for consumers.
outer root sheath cells to reverse hair loss.
An extract of plant stem cells derived from
Cicatricial alopecia results from hair follicle
camellia phyto-placenta cell culture is designed to
damage complicated by various pathological
address dry scalp and dandruff, whilst containing a
changes of the surrounding skin. Non-cicatricial
phyto-peptide that reduces skin sebum production
alopecia is caused either by functional or structural
and rebalances an itchy and flaky scalp. This unique
disorders of the hair follicle itself. Androgenic alopecia hair follicle growth studies
product will also increase the scalp moisture content, resulting in a reduced number of dry flakes
showed a significant marked growth after seven
and significantly soothing the scalp.
days of treatment, showing the role of EGCG in
A fully biosourced bisabolol, obtained by
the stimulation of proliferation of dermal papilla
fermentation from plant sugars, offers the
fibroblasts and the promotion of human hair
possibility to take care of sensitive skin by fortifying
follicle growth.
A vegetal-like hyaluronic acid brings unique melting, velvety-smooth and moisturising effects to skin. It is combined with a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to prevent skin dehydration. To meet consumers’ needs, a new generation of multi-beneficial products are being developed to deliver healthy and glowing skin with sustainable skin care benefits and novel sensory experiences. Crafted by marine biotechnology from Himanthalia elongata, a brown macro-algae from France, addresses hyperpigmentation disorders in a preventive and curative way. On a daily basis, environmental stress such as UV exposure and pollution as well as chronological ageing generate a loss of control in the pigmentation process, which ends up in the appearance of brown and dark spots on the surface of the skin. This the communication between fibroblasts and
comfort. Scalp tests were performed on
HEALTHY SKIN
volunteers having an itchy scalp (pruritus) in
Oily skin leading to acne is a frustrating
a double-blind, inter-individual and placebo-
condition for both men and women. New phyto-
controlled clinical evaluation versus plant or
peptide technology (combining a peptide with a
chemical sources of bisabolol. The results
natural phytochemical molecule), offers a full
demonstrate great consumer benefits for those
set of antioxidant and anti-ageing activities
needing a sensitive scalp treatment.
that reduce facial sebum production with impressive efficacy.
hyaluronic acid for hair produced a soothing
balances and activates the skin microbiome.
sustainable macro-algae extract re-establishes
and soothing the skin and scalp while restoring
A dedicated formula with bisabolol and a
obtained by a skin complexion bioptimiser which
A formulated transforming gel, which is
shampoo with the powerful benefits of nature to
microbiome-friendly, instantly illuminates the
benefit the scalp and moisturise the hair.
skin and acts on sebum. One of the actives is
melanocytes, thereby reverting pigmentation by reactivating the expression of SDF-1, a key target in this skin condition, resulting in a significant decline of melanin content in the hyperpigmented spots (-327% in two months) on African skin. • References: 1. Roland Berger 2016 2. GFK 3. WGSN S/S 17 4. Mintel GNPD Global launches of hair products, % by leading claims, 2016 5. Mintel: The future of hair care 2017.
obtained from upcycled vetiver roots and exhibits
With the popularity of natural and botanical ingredients, hair care brands are finding success by
anti-ageing properties that put back volume
making use of recognisable ingredients with proven
in an ageing face. Instant whitening effects that
health benefits.4
visually brighten complexion and skin tone, are
The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za
ingredient suppliers • skin, hair, health, body care ingredients • masks • active, functional, visual, vectorised ingredients • fragrances • oils • butters • scrubs • plant extracts • rheologicals • emulsifiers • esters • pigments • nail polish • colour cosmetics • hair bleach • dyes • specialised packaging: jars, bottles, tubes, plastic, halal tel: +27 11 268 5555 80.Careco Ad_Nov 2020.indd 2
email: info@careco.co.za
website: www.careco.co.za 2020/11/27 12:39 PM
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
21
HAIR CARE PERSONAL CARE
Hair protection with
HydroxyShield polymer
When it comes to moisturisation, or perceived moisturisation, the skin is the first thing that comes to mind, but we forget that this concept is equally important in healthy looking hair. Jacques Strydom, technical manager of AECI Specialty Chemicals, explains the multifunctional benefits of this specialised amino silicone polymer and why it should form part of any performance orientated hair care range.
W
hen the hair is dry and damaged, it
perceived moisturisation, which makes hair look
biodegradable, which is in line with AECI Specialty
appears dull and is often prone to
naturally healthy and full of life.
Chemical’s sustainability goals. This novel
further damage. The only way to
technology can create next generation formulations SUSTAINABLE AND MULTIFUNCTIONAL
to meet consumers’ cleansing and conditioning
repair and protect the hair with the help of specially
HydroxyShield polymer is 90% active in 10%
needs. Over and above the repair aspect, the
formulated hair care products.
butyloctanol – and the butyloctanol is readily
polymer also offers multifunctional shielding
address this problem is to rescue,
The polymer also offers multifunctional shielding benefits for hair, including heat, colour and damage protection A product that addresses this all-encompassing dilemma is HydroxyShield polymer, available from AECI Specialty Chemicals. Due to the polymer terminating in hydroxyl aminosiloxane groups, which bond with the hair, various beneficial effects can be expected. The siloxane provides softness and silky sensorial properties to the hair, while the amino group is responsible for anchoring the polymer to the hair. While these two groups provide structural benefits to the hair, the hydroxyl groups bring
22
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
Table 1: View from above foam conditioner
Phase Ingredient INCI A Water Aqua EcoSense 3000 Surfactant Decyl Glucoside HydroxySHIELD Polymer Bis-Diisopropanolamino-PG-Propyl Disiloxane/Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone Copolymer MaizeCare Style Polymer Hydrolysed Corn Starch Lactic Acid, 90% Lactic Acid B EcoSense 3000 Surfactant Decyl Glucoside Empigen BS/FA Cocamidopropyl Betaine Peppermint Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract Sunflower Extract Glycerin, Water, Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) petals extract Horse Chestnut Extract Glycerin, Water, Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract PE 91. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Blue Lotus Tea Fragrance
Wt% 91.47 1.00 1.00
2.00 0.03 0.50 2.50 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.50 0.25
This foaming conditioner features Ecosense 3000, a decyl glucoside that offers mild cleansing and foaming properties. Due to the synergy between HydroxyShield and MaizeCare Style Polymer, this product offers superior anti-frizz and anti-fly-away benefits. MaizeCare typically functions as a standalone hair fixative for styling, but when paired with the Hydroxyshield in this type of formulation, synergistic conditioning benefits are attained
PERSONAL CARE
Table 2: Built for this leave-in conditioner cream
Phase Ingredient INCI A Water Aqua HydroxyShield Polymer Bis-Diisopropanolamino-PG-Propyl Sunflower Seed Oil Disiloxane/Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone Copolymer Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Baobab Oil Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil B Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Dimethicone Fluid 2 cSt Dowsil FZ-3196 Fluid Caprylyl Methicone Cetearyl Alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol Emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate PE 91 Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin Fragrance Parfum C Aculyn Siltouch Rheology Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Modifier Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Dimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
Wt% 84.31 2.00
2.00 1.50 1.50 0.99 0.50 2.00
benefits for hair, including heat, colour and
rescues, repairs and protects from hair breakage
damage protection.
day after day. Due to the multifunctional benefits,
to design a hair cleansing and conditioning line that
it also allows the brand owner to make consumer differentiating claims, such as:
appearance’ claim • reduces hair breakage for a ‘hair protection’ claim • enhances sensory for a ‘smooth feeling’ claim • supports convenience claims of ‘fast drying’ and
0.10 0.10 5.00
HydroxyShield Polymer might be the star of this formulation, offering unmatched conditioning benefits, but it is not the only specialized material in the product. Aculyn Siltouch Rheology modifier is a cold process, polymeric emulsifier that instantaneously emulsifies and thickens O/W systems, and thus perfectly fitting to form the structural basis of this conditioner cream. Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 2 cSt is the perfect low viscosity, high volatility silicone to deliver manageability, shine and sensory excellence to the hair
Ultimately, HydroxyShield Polymer allows you
• improved hair alignment for a ‘healthy
‘easy styling’ • delays colour fade for a ‘colour protection’ claim • reduces breakage from heat appliances for a ‘heat protection’ claim. A LEADER IN ITS FIELD In terms of comparative or benchmark testing, HydroxyShield outperforms most amino silicones in its league when it comes to a reduction of wet and dry combing friction, dry sensory benefits, reduced breakage, drying speed, hair alignment, colour protection and heat protection. It is not difficult to perceive how this all-rounder ingredient could form the centrepiece of any new hair care line. For inspiration, the formulations showcased in Tables 1 and 2 can be considered. •
AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@ aeciworld.com or karen.meyer@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
23
PERSONAL CARE
BALANCE FORM, FUNCTION AND ENVIRONMENTAL NEEDS WITH FUNCTIONAL FILLERS Pollution, sustainability, veganism, social responsibility, wellness and, of course, COVID-19 all play a role in consumers’ purchasing decisions when it comes to personal care products. The natural assumption currently is that people choose brands with the most aggressive cleansing claims, though a general sense of wellbeing or a feeling of being pampered is just as important. By Karen Maier
The RonaFlair products provided equal and … superior performance compared to their microplastic equivalents
B
ath and shower products continue to
and powdered face masks which do not require
combining RonaFlair Satin, RonaFlair LDP White or
evolve. Long gone are the days of a
extensive packaging, preserve water resources and
Flawless and RonaFlair Soft Sphere, using different
plain bar of soap or simple shower gel
are easy to transport and store.
combinations and various ratios, one can achieve
that smelled nice for the sole purpose
all the benefits of Nylon 12 or PMMA without the
of cleansing. These products have become
PLASTIC POLLUTION
increasingly sophisticated and already feature a
Reducing the consumption of plastic because of
Merck conducted various studies to verify
host of claims. However, the evolution is far
its destructive impact on the environment is on
the performance of the RonaFlair products as
from complete.
everyone’s lips. Whether it’s plastic packaging
substitutes for the plastic-based fillers, in
material or the microplastics within formulations,
terms of sensory aspects (softness and powdery
the cosmetics industry needs to offer safe, natural
skin feel, for example), and parameters such
alternatives that do not compromise on quality and
as wrinkle reduction and disguising small
sensory aspects.
imperfections, or soft-focus effects. It was found
Did you know? Functional fillers play a crucial role in the look, feel and quality of cosmetic products by ensuring great skin feel, spreadability and transparency. A successful combination of functional fillers includes platelets and spheres, which glide and roll onto the skin, imparting a silky luxurious feel, positively impacting the performance of the final product.
One may ask why there is such an outcry
environmental damage.
that, depending on the product combination, the
against the use of microplastics in cosmetics?
RonaFlair products provided equal and, in some
Environmental researchers have found
instances, superior performance compared to
microplastics present across the world, deep within
their microplastic equivalents.
the oceans, in the snow high up in the Alps and
Formulating for the personal care industry
even in polar sediment. Once microplastics enter
has become a fine art, choosing ingredients that
the natural environment, they are impossible to
speak to the needs of not only the person using
remove, and they are resistant to biodegradability.
them but to the needs of our natural environment,
Microplastics are even entering the food chain
too. Getting it wrong in the time of social media,
a much higher priority for consumers – and
from oceans, nature and even farms, and while the
especially when it comes to the aspects around the
formulators should take notice of this need when
impact on human health is not yet fully understood,
environment and preserving our planet, can result
developing new products.
it is already obvious it will not be positive.
in a far-reaching backlash for a brand owner. But,
Maintaining the skin microbiome has become
Market research tells us that sustainability
get it right and you and your brand will reap the
is another major concern, sparking the need for
INNOVATIVE ALTERNATIVES
products that require the least packaging materials,
The technical teams at Merck have been working on
contain fewer ingredients and offer multiple
safe, environmentally-friendly alternatives to Nylon
benefits. For example, solid, waterless formulations
12 and PMMA and have come up with solutions
based of effective, multi-functional natural
from the RonaFlair Functional Fillers portfolio.
ingredients are particularly on trend – think solid shampoos and body balms, or cleansing powders
24
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
There is no single solution to substitute microplastics like-for-like. Yet, by cleverly
rewards for years to come. •
Merck – www.merckgroup.com
PERSONAL CARE
New sustainable formulation kits for hair and body care With less environmental impact and reduced water content, Kao’s new formula kits represent a more caring approach to personal care. Available in Southern Africa from CIM Chemicals, both kits synergise eco-consciousness, water reduction, ease of use and reduced packaging for the innovation and sustainable development of personal care products.
A
ccording to Mintel, water is set to
creamy foam, is eco-friendly and cold processed.
hair styling; and Danox HC-30, a one-step
become a precious commodity as
The smooth solid conditioner is also eco-friendly.
2-in-1 conditioning agent, which facilitates the
consumption outstrips supply. The more
This water free product leaves hair smooth
formulation process and gives hair what it needs
consumers become aware of this, the
and conditioned. The body moisturiser is highly
to keep it healthy with excellent detangling results,
more beauty brands will need to change how they
moisturising, fast absorbing and packaging free.
making it easier to comb while fly-away can easily
manufacture and formulate products to limit their
All three of the waterless kit formulations are
be controlled.
dependence on water.
perfumed with Kao’s range of exclusive scents.
Kao’s commitment to the environment and
For body care, thanks to its emulsifying properties and good skin compatibility, Danox
the sustainable growth of society and industry
DILUTABLE KIT
HC-30 is a product highly recommended for
is evident in these new formula kits. They
There are two formulations in the dilutable kit – a
the preparation of solid formats and skin care
also represent the company’s drive to create
conditioner and hair and body cleanser. These are
emulsions. Likewise, thanks to the combination
environmentally-friendly solutions and to respond
both concentrated formulas, which require dilution
of an emollient, Exceparl LM-LC, and the active
to the needs of its customers when developing
before use. The dilution of the hair conditioner is
ingredient, Exceparl IS-CE-A – a biomimetic skin
innovative products in accordance with new trends.
20:100 and 30:100 for the hair and body cleanser.
lipid that recovers stratum corneum and improves
This amount of water is minimal and the kits use
skin's water-retaining ability – a sustainable
less packaging.
body moisturiser with a natural character can
Kao’s commitment to the environment … is evident in these new formula kits
The concentrated formulas mean that no water
be achieved. •
is shipped and a 30mℓ concentrated product equals 100mℓ. Formulated with mild surfactants, the conditioner and hair and body cleanser are also easy to prepare. INGREDIENTS IN ACTION In these kits, Kao has incorporated select hair
SOLID WATERLESS KIT
solutions such as Akypo Foam LM 25, an ultra-soft
The solid waterless kit comprises three formulation
cleaning agent that provides a consistent, stable
options: a creamy shampoo; hair conditioner;
foam with a creamy texture; Kao Sofcare GP-1,
and body moisturiser. The easy-to-use creamy
a fortifying and repairing conditioning agent that
shampoo offers conditioning properties, a high and
maintains volume, gives shine and facilitates
CIM Chemicals – www.cim.co.za Kao Chemicals Europe – www.kaochemicals-eu.com
Choose AKYPO FOAM LM 25 anionic surfactant for ultra-mild cleansing and sulphate-free formulations! The benefits are endless: • Ultra-mild surfactant • Readily biodegradable • High concentration • Soft & creamy foam texture • Micro-bubble size • Clear formulations • Easy to thicken • Vegetable derived fatty alcohols • Excellent compatibility with all kinds of surfactants, polymers & conditioning agents
Brad: 060 583 5324 www.cim.co.za
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
25
HOME CARE
Disinfection that lasts
As soon as a surface is touched again, it is recontaminated. Yet, when using Actizone in surface cleaning applications, you have patented technology that provides a continuous protection of surfaces
When using typical disinfection cleaners at home, many consumers believe that the surfaces stay protected for several hours. They also believe that efficient disinfection is not required at least until the next day. In reality, disinfectants kill bacteria and viruses, but take time to take effect and do not provide long-lasting protection. Actizone from Solvay presents a game changer in this regard in the hygiene and disinfection market.
A
s soon as a surface is touched again, it
an integral part of the everyday cleaning chore,
is recontaminated. Even a single missed
while consumers have become more demanding in
bacterium will produce over 16 million
terms of the performance of products they use.
copies in only eight hours.
Actizone presents a real breakthrough in
KEEPING THE ENTIRE FAMILY SAFE
the hygiene market. According to Solvay, this
Common disinfectant cleaners on the market
disinfectant cleaner not only provides 99.9% germ
make use of antibacterial active technologies, such
kill, but also continues to be active on surfaces
as quaternary ammonium ingredients, alcohol
for 24 hours, even after multiple events of
or bleach, which are effective in killing germs on
erosion and recontamination of the surface by
contact. Once deactivated, surfaces return to
multiple contacts.
their initial state, which means that they can be recontaminated.
A SUDDEN AND RISING NEED FOR HYGIENE
Subsequent to four years of research and
Consumers spend significant time on interior
development, Solvay launched Actizone, a
cleaning tasks, and as we are constantly
unique blend that combines Solvay technologies
interacting with surfaces, keeping them protected
and know-how for a truly long-lasting defence
against bacteria and viruses has become an
mechanism against harmful microorganisms and
absolute priority.
with proven efficacy under regulated tests.
Furthermore, the global coronavirus pandemic
Multipurpose disinfectant cleaners with Actizone
has not only pushed every single consumer to
technology combine
place hygiene at the heart of their existence, but
three benefits:
also at the centre of their cleaning routines. As a
1. optimal cleaning performance
result, antibacterial claims for hard surface cleaners
2. fast kill of more than 99.9% of germs
launched in Europe have grown over 140% between
3. 24-hour antimicrobial protection against
January and September 2020. Another spinoff of the crisis was the sudden rise
ACTIZONE HIGHLIGHTS
• fast kill (< five minutes) of 99.9% of the germs and broad-spectrum efficacy • long-lasting disinfecting action, up to 24-hour antibacterial effect even when the surface is eroded and contaminated by multiple contacts • no compromise on cleaning aesthetics with residue-free cleaning • enhances productivity and reduces risks of recontamination • supplied as a ready-to-dilute formulation • suitable for disinfectant spray cleaners.
Actizone-based products are formulated to enhance consumer cleaning experiences from start
recontamination, including when eroded by
to finish. Most importantly, Actizone is designed
multiple contacts.
to work on a variety of commonly used surfaces,
in hygiene awareness for consumers worldwide.
including laminates, polycarbonate, glass and
Surface care industry leaders have witnessed
OPTIMAL CLEANING PERFORMANCE
steel. The technology offers unmatched aesthetic
an increased demand for products with proven
An enjoyable and effective cleaning experience
benefits and excellent cleaning performance over a
efficacy, detailed on the labels and often backed by
is the expectation of today’s home care products
range of soils. Consumers are able to preserve the
trusted technical data rather than simply trusting
from modern consumers with busy lifestyles – and
natural shine of a surface by ensuring a residue-
marketing. In simpler words, hygiene has become
antibacterial solutions are no exception.
free clean.
26
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
HOME CARE
Germs present on the surface after several cycles of abrasion and bacteria recontamination
FAST, BROAD-SPECTRUM PROTECTION Disinfectant cleaners formulated with Actizone provide consumers with the expected fast germ kill of bacteria, yeast and viruses. Once applied, the technology rapidly destroys 99.9% of microorganisms, with proven efficacy against the human coronavirus, making it an effective COVID-19 disinfection solution, which needs to work quickly and reliably. Actizone also provides a strong efficacy over a broad spectrum. It rapidly kills (< five minutes) gram-negative and gram-positive bacteria, as well as enveloped and non-enveloped viruses, including H1N1, influenza and the human coronavirus. The efficacy of Actizone technology is proven through rigorous independent laboratory tests. 24-HOUR ANTIMICROBIAL DEFENCE
Actizone offers formulators the benefit of Solvay’s unmatched experience in the home care and cleaning market to launch a truly efficient antibacterial cleaner with a breakthrough 24-hour protection claim
Actizone is a patented technology that provides a continuous protection of surfaces. Since surfaces
Self Sanitising Test and BSI PAS 2424 Residual
by COVID-19, Solvay introduces its Actizone
are routinely touched and contaminated, it is a
Antimicrobial Efficacy Test.
technology as a ready-to-dilute solution, known
desired technology to truly ensure full protection throughout the day.
The efficacy of Actizone technology is proven through rigorous independent laboratory tests
as Actizone F5 conc. It contains antibacterial IMPROVED SUSTAINABILITY
quaternary ammonium compounds as actives to
This product from Solvay is a desired way of
rapidly kill germs, an optimised surfactant blend
formulating sustainable multipurpose disinfection
to achieve best-in-class cleaning aesthetics with
cleaners. With once-daily application, it enhances
residue-free benefits and a proprietary polymer
productivity and sustainability as it allows
that will provide 24-hour durable protection.
consumers and businesses to use disinfectant
This product offers formulators the benefit of
products less frequently. Once sprayed onto
Solvay’s unmatched experience in the home care
surfaces, the patented Actizone technology
and cleaning market, as well as immense flexibility
provides an all-day bacterial defence, even after
to companies to launch a truly efficient and brand-
repeated touches, without sacrificing the cleaning
new antibacterial cleaner in record time, with a
The product traps antimicrobial actives to
experience. It also helps to reimagine public health
breakthrough 24-hour protection claim backed by
form an invisible protective film that won’t erode
and wellbeing by providing continuous protection in
data generated by Solvay in multiple world-class
after repeated touch. It protects surfaces against
public spaces.
independent labs. •
recontamination for 24 hours as the actives within the technology remain continuously available.
A READY-TO-USE PRODUCT
Actizone is compliant with the most stringent
To answer immediate needs in the market for
testing standards, including US-EPA RSS Residual
efficient disinfecting cleaners in a world constrained
Solvay – www.solvay.co.za
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
27
HOME CARE
Disinfection done right! Although the main focus of a disinfectant is the functional benefit, it can also delight the senses with an atmospheric scent. Bacteria and germs are common in our everyday life on many devices and objects. Our hands are potential carriers and transmitters of these germs, so the most important factors are proper hygiene and the correct application of a disinfectant. By Adam Owen
W
ith the global COVID-19 pandemic putting heightened
we have focused on blending herbal elements, clean vanilla, oakmoss,
focus on cleaning, disinfecting and personal sanitising
cedarwood, gourmand tones such as caramel and candy floss with traditional
products, we are constantly and increasingly washing and
apple, citrus and lavender fragrances, with which the market is familiar.
sanitising our hands, works spaces and personal items
that are used on a daily basis.
NEW OFFICE TO STREAMLINE LOGISTICS
o6 Agencies understands that being able to offer fragrances that can be
To better manage market demands and supply chain into the COMESA region,
used to scent multiple home care cleaning applications, as well as air sanitising
o6 Agencies has expanded its operation with the opening of a Mauritian office,
foggers and purifiers and now personal sanitising products, is pinnacle to
which will be fully functional early in 2021. Not only will this better streamline
ensuring customer satisfaction.
our logistical reach into Southern and Eastern Africa, allowing us to adapt faster
The company also realises the need to assist manufactures with limiting the number of fragrance variants they are required to hold for each application.
and easier to ever changing obstacles, but will also give us deeper insight into local and regional tastes, trends and product needs. â&#x20AC;˘
HOME CARE FRAGRANCE TRENDS Floral and fruity notes are always popular for home cleaning and disinfectant products. To give these products a more unique and sophisticated scent,
28
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
o6 Agencies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; o6southafrica.com
LABELLING
SIMPLIFY CODE READING AND INSPECTION
There is a new solution on the market for manufacturers who are concerned that their product inspections are becoming too complex. The V/F400 and V/F300 series smart cameras are the latest additions to Omron’s popular MicroHawk line, which offers code reading and vision inspection capabilities.
T
he powerful yet compact MicroHawk V/ F400 and V/F300 series smart cameras simplify applications by offering the possibility to combine code reading
and vision inspection into a single, highlycompact device. These smart cameras are suitable for the pharmaceutical, food and beverage industries as well as commodities where serialisation with
IN SUPPORT OF MANUFACTURING INNOVATION Omron Electronics is the South African subsidiary of Omron Corporation, a global leader in the field of automation based on its core technology of ‘Sensing & Control + Think’. Established in 1933, Omron has about 36 000 employees worldwide, working to provide products and services in more than 110 countries and regions. The company's business fields cover a broad spectrum, ranging from industrial automation and electronic components to automotive electronics, social infrastructure systems, healthcare and environmental solutions.
a combination of track and trace are of utmost importance. REDUCED COSTS AND GREATER FLEXIBILITY Bundling multiple capabilities in one, the V/F400 and V/F300 series lower hardware costs and minimise the work required for commissioning and maintenance. Powerful technologies such as liquid lens autofocus options and a high-resolution five-megapixel colour camera ensure exceptional precision while promoting greater flexibility in
The powerful yet compact MicroHawk camera can inspect pharmaceutical packaging at high speeds algorithms allows reading of any code on damaged,
on small robots. Their wide variety of supported
shiny, curved or otherwise textured materials,
communication interfaces include Ethernet/IP and
RELIABLE INSPECTION TECHNOLOGY
minimizing downtime and keeping production
Profinet for added flexibility. •
The cutting-edge autofocus technology ensures
moving smoothly.
production line layouts.
that the camera can reliably inspect products that
The compact size of the V/F400 and V/F300
vary in size, shape, colour or desired inspection
series makes it easy to embed them within
type. In addition, Omron’s advanced X-Mode
space-constrained equipment or mount them
Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za
Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series
• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines
Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info_sa@omron.com industrial.omron.co.za fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_02_d01.indd 1
09-06-20 10:22
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
29
HAIR CARE LABELLING
Achieve more
with NFC tags and RFID chips Near field communication (NFC) tags and radio frequency identification (RFID) chips help blur the lines between the physical and digital world, exceeding expectations with better product availability, revolutionising checkouts and increasing access to information. Jessica Busa of Siyakha Imperial Printing reveals how.
individual needs are better met. When included in
HOW IT ALL WORKS
the labelling of individual products, NFC enables
NFC and RFID systems work with radio waves
consumers to get more information about the
– picked up after scanning a small electronic tag
products they want to purchase. Possibilities such
inserted into an item’s label or packaging – using
as linking to a video on how to use an item or a
mobile or stationary readers. The tag can be
recipe can all be realised with NFC.
encoded with a unique identifier. RFID allows tagged items to be identified without direct
NFC and RFID costs … are starting to become more accessible
proximity, as is needed with a barcode. NFC and RFID costs, which have traditionally been too expensive for consumer applications, are starting to become more accessible and their potential in retail applications is growing as the technology evolves. Siyakha Imperial Printing is a committed partner to its customers, helping them increase efficiencies
Using NFC, a link to a video can be embedded in a product’s label, providing consumers with detailed info on how to use an item
C
30
AUTOMATION AND CONSUMER EXPERIENCE
with better item-level accuracy throughout their
The benefits of RFID in accurate inventory
global supply chain. In doing this, we also help
management include avoiding consumer
customers achieve their sustainability goals by
disappointment with out-of-stock items and
reducing waste and their overall environmental
increase response time with product location.
impact. We work with longstanding partners and
Ultimately, this leads to savings and improved
industry leaders to provide the best collaborative
consumer experience.
solutions for the future. •
RFID can also considerably reduce the time
onsumers desire personalisation, a
consumers waste in queues. Retailers that have
connection with products and immediate
introduced automatic RFID-powered checkouts
access to information. In today’s retail
have eradicated the tedious task of scanning
landscape, consumers will go where their
individual barcodes.
QUARTER 4 2020 // P&C AFRICA
Siyakha Imperial Printing – www.labelprint.co.za
PHARMA FOCUS: PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY
SYNTEGON ESTABLISHES A THIRD CUSTOMER CENTRE FOR OSD PHARMACEUTICALS
Located in Waiblingen, Germany, Syntegon Technology’s new OSD customer centre includes everything customers need for the formulation, development and production of OSD pharmaceutical products. Syntegon’s GKF 720 HiProTect
From the development of active ingredients or formulations to process optimisation and machine operator training – we bridge the gap between all these disciplines
O
n 16 November, after a 12-month
parameters on production equipment,
construction period, Syntegon
the centre also offers them the process
Technology inaugurated its new oral
analysis of active ingredients and
solid dosage (OSD) customer centre.
formulations, as well as the diagnosis
The 600m2 building houses from cleanrooms and assembly areas to offices, meeting and training rooms. “With this infrastructure and our team of experts, we offer our customers the innovative
of existing processes. “Especially for powders, we can now offer more comprehensive services,” he explains. To develop optimum parameters,
power they expect from a reliable and future-
Syntegon uses the newly-developed
oriented partner,” says Dr Thomas Brinz, head of
automated process development (APD)
the new OSD customer centre.
tool, which is also suited for active
In the new premises, Syntegon’s clients will meet with experts who take care of problem solving, as well as optimising and developing their processes and providing seminars and training. Syntegon has increased sixfold the cleanroom
ingredients or formulations that have not yet been approved. “Manual evaluations of process parameters can take days or even weeks,” says Dr Brinz. “The APD tool
capacity at its site in Waiblingen. Everything
achieves not only faster, but also more
from laboratory equipment to production scale
precise results.”
machines, TPR tablet presses for mono- and bilayer
By determining the interactions between
tablets as well as GKF capsule filling machines are
material, quality and process-critical parameters,
available for all formats and products in different
the tool ensures an improved understanding of the
cleanroom classes – up to the highest containment
process, which in turn has positive effects on the
level OEB5.
quality of the end product.
BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN R&D
WORLDWIDE LABORATORY COMPETENCE
AND PRODUCTION
The OSD customer centre provides customers
The new OSD customer centre offers
with a 10-strong core team of pharmacists,
pharmaceutical developers and manufacturers an
chemists, process specialists, engineers, trainers
ideal location to test future formulations or existing
and service technicians.
products on real machines. “From the development of active ingredients or
“Depending on the customer project, we can
addition, we are also able to expand our range of training courses and seminars.” The centre complements the range of specialised laboratories and other customer centres of Syntegon. Waiblingen is the third facility for OSD forms, alongside Schopfheim in Germany and Hangzhou in China. In addition, five partner laboratories provide optimum advice to pharmaceutical developers and manufacturers around the world. “The new customer centre is the logical next step towards even stronger customer orientation and flexible services,” adds Dr Brinz.•
flexibly call in additional specialists from different
formulations to process optimisation and machine
areas,” he comments. “This way, we help our
operator training – we bridge the gap between all
customers to design their capsule filling and tablet
these disciplines,” says Dr Brinz. Since Syntegon’s
pressing processes much more efficiently, and
customers don’t just want to test their filling
to increase their overall plant effectiveness. In
Syntegon Technology – www.syntegon.com
P&C AFRICA // QUARTER 4 2020
31
From one
brave team to anotherâ&#x20AC;Ś Thank Thankyo you u to everyone in everyone in manufacturing and manufacturing and essential ices essential serv services for keeping keeping tthe for he machines machines run running ning and shelves shelves sto stocked, and cked, during the COVID-19 COV shutdown. ID-19 the
You are the unsung heroes!
Our #PurplePeople salute you!
32
AFRICA
QUARTER 3 2020 // P&C AFRICA
South African journal for food and beverage manufacturers
FOOD Manufacturing Africa Journal for food and beverage manufacturers
New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd.
