August 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 8
www.pharmacos.co.za
HAIR CARE
Product tailoring, textured hair & scalp care
Innovative ingredients inspired by the diversity of hair types
COLOUR COSMETICS Trends shaping makeup palettes
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES Targets, achievements & new commitments
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
August 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 8
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
A showcase of the 2019 entries
8 NEWS
CanbiGold geared to transform the Cannabis industry
Orkila strengthens its partnership with Roquette
Dabur’s ORS brand celebrates Mandela Day
11 INDUSTRY TALK
Ensure your brand resonates with women
12 EVENTS
Clear your diary for the HPCI expo in September
16 HAIR CARE
Innovative ingredients from Savannah Fine Chemicals
Green beauty blends based on science
Beautiful hair starts at the scalp
How to prevent and treat dandruff
Silikes – a substitute for silicones
Croda’s new ISO data shows a commitment to sustainability
12
Creating a gateway to the growing African market
34 REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING
How to compile a PIF
36 SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
Alpla’s new objectives
The vinyl-dot quality mark from SAVA
Sheet masks with a reduced environmental footprint
39 PHARMA FOCUS: BIOSIMILARS
Automated gene therapeutics production project underway
Werum announces system updates to PAS-X MES
26 COLOUR COSMETICS
Merck’s 2019 spring/summer colour forecast
IMCD South Africa partners with Koel Colours
Quantum Colours celebrates its 16th anniversary
The evolution of colour with The Care Co.
28
Pigments and dyes to make an impact
39
Project to automate production of gene therapeutics 41 ASSOCIATION NEWS
Exciting highlights from Coschem lecture
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Anina van der Walt, Shani Vermeulen, Yaw Dwomoh
Clear your diary
O
pportunities to connect and
ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za
On page 26, we look at the beauty of
network face to face with
colour cosmetics. Interesting reads in this
brand owners, manufacturers
section include Merck’s newest colour
and industry professionals
forecast and how it’s shaping local makeup
are rare in today’s digital age. This is set to
palettes, IMCD’s new distribution partnership
change in September, when HPCI brings its
with Koel Colours and The Care Co.’s take
globally renowned exhibition concept to
on the evolution of colour. We also wish
South Africa.
Quantum Colours a sweet 16th anniversary.
The HPCI South Africa expo takes place
Alpla, Lessonia and SAVA are on our
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Daleen Filbey +27 (0)83 409 3119 daleen.filbey@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
in conjunction with Coschem’s annual
sustainability radar this month. Turn to
scientific conference. More than 20 exhibitors
page 36 now to read about how these
have confirmed their participation in the
organisations are pushing boundaries in
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
expo, which will showcase ingredients and
sustainable packaging and practices.
CIRCULATION
associated solutions for home and personal
We’re looking forward to catching up
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za
care applications. If you need more reasons
with our readers and advertisers at the HPCI
to head to Gallagher Convention Centre on
South Africa expo and Coschem scientific
4 and 5 September, take a look at our
conference. Keep an eye on our social
preview on the conference and HPCI
media pages and the Pharmacos website
exhibition in this edition of P C Review.
for regular updates in the lead up to these
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za
Turn to page 12 now to read about the
events. Visit www.pharmacos.co.za, like the
Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman
highlights of the conference programme,
@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview Facebook
Art Director: David Kyslinger
entertainment planned for the gala dinner
page and follow @SApharmacos on twitter
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
and get a sneak peek at what some
and @pharmacosreview on Instagram.
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
exhibitors will be showcasing. The South African hair care market is
Enjoy the read!
forecast to reach USD496.64 million in value
PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo
by 2024, registering a CAGR of 1.36 percent
Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd
between 2019 and 2024. With a population
MANAGEMENT TEAM
of around 56 million and a shifting
MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb
demographic profile, the SA hair care market
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis
presents brand owners and manufacturers
BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley
with vast potential for growth. This is evident
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone
in our bumper hair care section on page 16.
HEAD OF HR: Camillah West
It features an array of products, solutions and
CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson
technologies for scalp care, healthy hair and
HEAD OFFICE
the growing textured hair care market.
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
Introducing the 2019 entrants Local and international brands are going head to head in the 2019 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition. Entries closed at the end of June. We received 28 submissions from brand owners of various ranges and individual products, which were assessed on 25 July by our esteemed panel of judges.
T
he New Product Competition is now
brands, which are available on the South African
in its 12 th year. Since its inception,
market, an opportunity to showcase their unique,
P C Review and Symrise – the sponsor of
new products.
the competition – have been encouraging
Entries can also be products that have either
innovation in the cosmetics industry. The aim of
been reformulated or repackaged to improve the
the competition is to give local and international
original offering.
Save the date!
The P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition awards will take place on 10 October, in Sandton, Johannesburg. We hope to see all the entrants there!
BRANDS COMPETING FOR THE TITLE
Working with renowned local cosmetic scientists, medical doctors, women with darker skin tones and marketing and advertising experts, Dr Mothoa-Frendo developed her Uso skin care range. She has entered the Uso by African Dermal Science range and the Uso 05 Active Day Cream with SPF30 in the competition.
Specialist South African scars and stretch marks brand, Bio-Oil has entered its first innovation in 30 years – Bio-Oil Dry Skin Gel. Formulated without water, the oil based gel works harder and goes further than water based creams and lotions. Because substantially less product is needed to cover the same body area, Bio-Oil Dry Skin Gel is not just 100 percent effective, it’s also good value.
Collagen Tri Phase, three in one serum by Hey Gorgeous is everyone’s secret to a glowing complexion. This unique serum includes a blend of skin transforming acids, nourishing botanical extracts and clinically proven actives to firm, smooth, hydrate and brighten the skin.
Environ, a globally recognised skin care brand based on science, care and beauty, has entered the Focus Care Radiance+ Range for uneven skin tone and the anti-ageing serum with multifunctional benefits – Focus Care Youth+ Avance Elixir.
365 Skin Workout by Sorbet is the newest skin care offering from the salon franchise brand. Hailing from the skin galleries of Barcelona, 365 Skin Workout is a premiere, fitness first skin care brand inspired by global pharmacosmeceutical trends. The products are multifunctional and promise repaired skin in just eight weeks.
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
GR8 Skincare was founded by Dr Janine Ellenberger, a South African doctor who now lives in the USA. The products are biodegradable and FDA approved. GR8 Skincare has entered The Oil – an alternative cleansing oil – and Screen – a sunscreen formulated with physical UV filters – into the competition.
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
SoyLites has re launched its innovative and handy moisturising product, the aroma butter bar. This solid, dry lotion bar made with botanical oils is available in five variants. The range includes a Calm Life Aroma Butter Bar, Sweet Florals Aroma Butter Bar, Good Morning Aroma Butter Bar with real coffee beans, Spice Up Your Life Aroma Butter Bar and the Hemp Re-leaf Aroma Butter Bar.
The Placecol Excellence range has been scientifically developed following an in-depth investigation into the different cellular functions associated with unique skin concerns. The range includes Gravity Lift, Brighten, Pure and Scar solutions. All four products contain Sunflower Oil to calm reactive skin and control signs of premature ageing.
Cold Pressed Skin, a new range from The Skin Co, is seen as a staple source of all things good and green. Inspired by raw juicing, the range includes cleanser, serum, moisturiser, a body oil and face mist products formulated with superfood extracts, anti-oxidants and natural ingredients.
Natralogic’s all maternity skin care range is specially formulated for use during pregnancy. According to Lauren Lamont, owner and founder of the brand, the products are free of toxins and ingredients that could be considered harmful. Natralogic products contain safe and high quality certified organic and natural ingredients.
An innovative, globally recognised brand dedicated to the science of beautiful skin, Nimue has submitted a variety of entries. These include the Nimue Sun-C Environmental Shield SPF 50, the new and improved Fader Range formulated with patented Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Nimue’s range of Super Fluids, the new Thermal Detox Peel, and its safe Smart Resurfacer Treatment that promises visible results without the downtime.
Rain Africa creates luxury handmade bath and body products using natural ingredients with African botanical actives. The South African natural products brand has diversified into the premium skin care and male grooming categories with the Rain Skincare and Rain’s G-Range.
Smelling great has never been this easy! Playgirl and Playboy announced the addition of body lotions earlier this year to its two popular deodorant ranges. The Playgirl body lotions are available in Temptation, Love Is and Flirtatious. The Playboy body lotion fragrance variants include Amazon, Atlantis and London Knights.
The latest addition to the Lulu & Marula skin care collection is its Balancing Hydra Serum. This collagen boosting concentrate is formulated with powerful antioxidants and marine actives. All these ingredients work together to improve elasticity and firm the skin, leaving it feeling velvety soft.
Optiphi, the winner of the 2018 P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition, is defending its title this year with three entries. The South African professional skin care brand has entered the Delta Medical Skincare Range, and two individual entries: Body Curve Sculpting Repair and Body Curve Calm Balm. In a move set to invigorate the personal care market, well-known deodorant brand, Shower to Shower has introduced a range of body washes. The trio includes the Fresh Powder, Fresh Escape and Fresh Happiness variants. This range and the new Floral Fresh Powder in spray deodorant and roll-on antiperspirant formats have been entered into the competition.
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
7
NEWS
Cannabis Research Institute launches in SA THE CANNABIS RESEARCH Institute (CRI) is Africa’s foremost centre of excellence in the field of cannabis and cannabinoid therapy management and research. It incorporates the use of multidisciplinary approaches to advance cannabis medicinal, veterinary and complementary drug development. Through clinical research and data analytical trials, the CRI develops cuttingedge methodology and utilises state of the art equipment and technology. The institute is partnered with South African and international research organisations. It also works with universities, high tech innovative companies and industry aligned corporations to provide research based proven approaches to Cannabis and cannabinoid therapy management. It also plans to partner with government and local and international regulatory bodies to
develop and help implement policies pertaining to Good Agricultural and Cultivation Practice, Good Manufacturing Practice, Good Laboratory Practice and Good Clinical Practice. It has selected the Afriplex Cannabis Laboratory as its dedicated testing facility for cultivation, extraction and final packaged product testing. Lauren McMillan, CRI general manager, comments: ‘With an extensive basket of services focusing on developing medicinal Cannabis capability in South Africa, we are taking the lead in keeping the country at the forefront of innovation. Our partnership with leading international players allows acceleration of local R&D programmes, providing cannabis derived products for the treatment for a broad spectrum of acute and chronic conditions experienced at all stages of life.’
Looking Good LCN and ORS celebrate Mandela Day DABUR’S HAIR CARE brand, ORS and Looking Good LCN donated makeup and hair care products to the survivors of domestic violence at the Bethany Home, in celebration of Mandela Day 2019. This marks the first time the brands have collaborated to celebrate their 67 minutes. The brands visited the women’s shelter to present the gifts and discover how the shelter makes a difference in the lives of those affected by abuse. Because the issue of domestic violence is highly topical yet neglected and often ignored, the beauty brands chose to support this home. The shelter works hard to educate the victims and provide resources to families affected by abusive relationships. It also provides Mrs World 2016 emotional support, housing, Candice Abrahams
safety planning and local resources, such as legal advice and counselling. Chama Mulolo, a representative from Looking Good LCN, commented: ‘Women are the cornerstone of our society and their wellbeing is of paramount importance to everyone. The abuse of women is unacceptable; women need to bind together and build each other up by starting movements that can be amplified and sustainable.’ Dabur ORS brand manager, Cathrine Williams, added: ‘Victim shaming cannot solve the current issue we are facing with domestic abuse and violence. Before we blame the victim, let us challenge the perpetrator to change their ways. When you encounter abuse, one needs to condemn it because silence is consent and agreement. Once we start doing this, we will start developing sustainable way of dealing with violence.’ The two brands thanked the shelter and pledged their support to further projects.
Roquette and Orkila collaborate for MEA market growth A LEADING MULTINATIONAL distributor, Orkila has become the preferred distributor of Roquette’s complete product offering for pharma, food and industrial applications throughout the MEA region. This step is a natural evolution of the strong and long-standing collaboration between the two companies. It also reconfirms Orkila’s leading position in the region. The new agreement extends Orkila’s existing distribution partnership with Roquette throughout the Middle East and Africa, and now encompasses Algeria, East Africa, Egypt, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, Senegal,South Africa, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates and the Gulf states. Laurent Cousin, Roquette’s head of global distribution management, says: ‘We are committed to providing customers with high quality plant based ingredients as well as an excellent level of service. We have strong growth ambitions to better serve our customers worldwide. We already have a proven and successful partnership with Orkila in the region and are delighted to expand it. Orkila is well-known for its pharma, food and industrial expertise and we are confident its skilled local sales team will offer a best in class service to our customers.’ Christophe Sacy, Orkila’s chief operating officer, adds: ‘Leveraging our presence in the region and our extensive knowledge of Roquette’s highly innovative plant based range of ingredients, our teams are well positioned to achieve Roquette growth ambitions in the Middle East and Africa. We see this decision by Roquette as a recognition of Orkila’s technical and commercial expertise and are confident it will bring added value to our customers. I will also contribute to supporting the growing market demand for Roquette’s plant based ingredients.’
A representative from Roquette with Christophe Sacy, Orkila’s chief operating officer
and Chama Mulolo
Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series
• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines
Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za 8
fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_01.indd 1
| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
11-06-18 09:42
NEWS
A GOLD STANDARD IN CANNABIS PRODUCTS ALTHOUGH IT’S IN its infancy, the Cannabis
production of medicinal Cannabis and related
formulated with its CBD oil. The company also
industry continues to expand. With the rapid
products. The company manufactures 99 percent
intends on working with a water distiller to
progress of the market and widespread support for
pure CBD products in its Cape Town laboratory
produce a CBD infused energy drink and CBD
legalisation, Cannabis businesses are poised for
under pharmaceutical conditions.
infused mineral water. Canbigold also recently
unparalleled growth.
To address a range of health issues for
signed a partnership with a Cape Town based
CanbiGold is an innovative and dynamic
humans and animals alike, CanbiGold uses
manufacturer of women’s sanitary products. Using
player in the industry, established as result of a
different organic oils as carrier mediums in
modern technology, the sanitary products are
critical need for objective and creative solutions
various combinations and concentrations. It has
being infused with CBD oil.
in the vast and expanding international Cannabis
a wide range of finished products and others
market. Together with strategic partners and
in development for men, women and children,
ventures global, to Australia, New Zealand
alliances, CanbiGold offers a global solution to
including creams, sanitary products, chocolate,
and Uruguay.
current and potential growers of both recreational
energy drinks and more.
and medicinal grade Cannabis, through extraction of oils and isolates.
For dogs, cats and other animals, it offers CBD oil to mix with their food and treats. CanbiGold is
It is a private company registered in South Africa and specialises in the cultivation and
also collaborating with a chocolate manufacturer which has launched a range of Belgian chocolates
CVC and Bosch reach sale agreement BOSCH PLANS TO sell its packaging machinery business, based in Waiblingen, Germany, to a newly incorporated entity managed by CVC Capital Partners (CVC). The company and its pharma and food units will remain intact. The parties signed an agreement on 11 July for the transfer of the entire packaging technology business and its 6 100 associates in 15 countries. Completion of the sale, expected to close at the turn of the year, is subject to the approval of various bodies, including antitrust authorities. Bosch announced a year ago it was
The company is also in the process of taking its
looking for a buyer for its packaging technology business. The company is giving increasing attention to mobility and connectivity, focusing its existing resources on areas of future importance, such as shaping the transformation process and preparing for further digitalisation.
A Bosch Packaging Technology machine built on the basis of quality and innovation
Offer a softer whitening experience with Spherilex 145 WHITE TEETH AND a bright, perfect smile are among the biggest demands in the oral care category. Evonik’s silica business line has launched a speciality product for oral care applications – Spherilex 145 – as a new solution for toothpaste formulators. Thanks to the spheroidal shape of the ingredient, high cleaning levels can be achieved while providing lower abrasion to dentin, enamel, fillings and other oral hardware. The mildness of Spherilex 145 is not affected by other whitening formulation ingredients, such as phosphates and chelants. Kristina Boedtger, Evonik’s global marketing director for oral care silica, comments: ‘Spherilex 145 for everyday toothpastes provides
consumers with whiter smiles. Its Cosmos approval makes it ideally suited for natural products and a great addition to our diverse portfolio. Our Spherilex technology really enhances customers’ formulations.’ All silica oral care products are produced under the highest safety and quality standards. Spherilex 145 meets USP-NF dental type silica and EP silica, dental type monographs. It is listed as a ‘derived mineral ingredient’ in the Annex D of ISO 16128-1 with the INCI name Hydrated Silica. All oral care grades of spherilex conform to Cosmos as a non-organic raw material and are certified Pareve, Kosher, Kosher for Passover, and Halal.
COSMETICS INDUSTRY SUMMIT - 16 & 17 OCTOBER 2019 “Breaking Barriers in Africa” IDC, 19 Fredman Drive, Sandown, Sandton • • • • • •
Bringing together leaders from business and government Stimulating ‘harmonisation’ across the African continent Easing trade within the African continent Local & International presenters Regulatory framework in various African countries Global best practice in the cosmetic and personal care industry
www.ctfa.co.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
9
DIARY
2019
WHAT'S ON IN RE V IE W
ood f
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
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September Coschem Scientific Conference & HPCI Expo
4 to 5 September Gallagher Convention Centre, Gauteng www.hpci-events.com/south-africa
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AMA Golf Day
16 October Woodmead Country Club, Sandton, Joburg www.aerosol.co.za
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
4 to 6 www.
Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Paris, France
November sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
INDUSTRY TALK
vs Does your brand connect with today’s women? More than a mother, wife and home cleaning enthusiast – Yaw Dwomoh, MD of Idea Hive, explores how brand storytelling is missing the mark.
A
washing powder advert
Infertility alone affects more than
single mom’s helper or mother. Brands
caught my attention for its
48 million couples in the world. In
need to speak to all these consumers.
depiction of a stereotypical
South Africa, 20 percent of couples
African woman in a rural
are unable to have children, enough so that some are calling for it to be
area, bent over a skottel washing clothes. Her disproportionate cleaning properties’ was an old refrain. As a father to a strong daughter and leader to some exceptionally talented and capable young women, it got
considered a disability.
DID YOU KNOW?
excitement over its ‘superior
www.mediaupdate.co.za
fly in the face of inclusivity
Not all women cook and clean. If we are
Addressing women not
brutally honest – in the South African culture,
only as mothers but
many women are cleaning homes that
Marketers believe as leaders, mentors, 75 percent of budget spent spiritual mothers, sisters, on marketing to African women is wasted – including aunts and teachers, their own. These were the brands have an findings of a Kantar Added incredible opportunity Value thought leadership study. Source: to reach women without
me thinking. Brands that
All women love cooking and cleaning
alienating a significant part of their audience.
are not their own. For example, if we take washing powder, this puts a new spin on the disparity between the target market and buying power and whether the target market actually affects the purchase decision. There are women who arrive home from work between 18h00 and 19h00, and who then have homework, tests, projects and speeches to complete. Tell them about
by depicting a lazily formulaic narrative are losing out on telling truly
All women are married
quick, healthy meals they can serve their
phenomenal stories. Such as those
A Tinder survey of singles aged
family, without the guilt. Give them a product
of women who are emergency
between 18 and 25 revealed
that cleans today’s sports kit in time for the
workers, farmers, bankers, engineers
80 percent of respondents felt staying
next morning. Tell them about the material
or single mothers.
single was better for work, friendship,
their son’s school shirt is made of and how it
fitness and unique experiences. In
won’t need ironing if you hang it up tonight
women made up 50 percent of the
2014, statistics showed about
to be dry for tomorrow.
South African population. Considering
50.2 percent of American adults
this, there are three stereotypes brands
were single.
According to Stats SA, in 2017 young
would be well-advised to avoid, to
A growing number of men and
Women make up nearly 85 percent of the consumer market. Brands cannot afford to ignore even a small percentage of them,
women also choose single parenting
or to only focus on them during Women’s
for various reasons. Over 62 percent of
Month. This is sure to see them lose out on
All women are mothers
children born in South Africa have no
market share, brand loyalty, credibility, trust
Not all women are mothers or want to
father listed on their birth certificate.
and ultimately, profits.•
be mothers. If Millennials are said to
Avoiding following their mothers’ and
be having children later or not at all,
grandmothers’ paths, many women no
studies show that Generation Z women
longer feel pressurised to get married.
reach a whole new demographic.
will have even less mothers, which
That said, it’s not always a woman
should be okay. Infertility, careers,
who is using a brand’s washing
societal pressure, cost of living and the
powder. Your consumer could be
lure of single life have an impact on
a father who has his kids for the
when and if women have children.
weekend, or it may be a successful
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Yaw Dwomoh is an entrepreneur and heads up Idea Hive – a specialist brand storytelling agency, which helps brands like McDonald’s tell authentic stories.
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
11
EVENTS
Creating a gateway to the growing African market HPCI South Africa, an expo showcasing ingredients for home and personal care applications, will take place on 4 and 5 September at Gallagher Convention Centre. Coschem is hosting its annual scientific conference in conjunction with the HPCI exhibition.
T
he African continent is a
The Care Co., and Vantage
Fourchem branded deck chair – who
growing market for the
Specialty Chemicals.
says business shouldn’t be fun.
personal and home care
Have fun with Fourchem
Savannah creates brilliance
organised in emerging markets such
If you’re searching for a well-
Offering a value driven ingredients
as India, Istanbul, Poland and South
established, owner managed
package, Savannah Fine
Africa, present an ideal opportunity to
ingredients supplier, look no further
Chemicals seeks to improve
suppliers to showcase their products to
than Fourchem. The company has
the lives of its customers
prospective customers.
been operating in Africa for over 10
by being a constructive,
years and is highly regarded as a one
synergistic and well
and international suppliers, contract
stop shop for all raw material needs for
implemented business.
manufacturers, brand owners and
the cosmetics industry.
Established in 1990, Savannah retains its
industries. HPCI events,
Consultants, formulators, local
agents are expected to attend the show.
Fourchem brings products to Africa
start-up philosophy by staying true to
from some of the world’s most highly
its purpose:
regarded producers of ingredients. These
• ‘curious by nature’ keeps the
Ayanda African Oils, Brenntag South
ingredients are available from a single
company relevant
Africa, Carst & Walker SA, Chemgrit
point of contact and delivered to your
• ‘can do’ relates to its positivity and
Cosmetics, CJP Chemicals, Croda SA,
factory floor with no hassles.
Exhibitors include AMA Laboratories,
Cosmetic Ingredients co-located with
enthusiasm, which make Savannah
The company has extensive experience
Quantum Colours, the Department of
in full supply chain logistics from Cape
Trade and Industry, Dia-Stron, Evonik
to Cairo and is equipped to deliver on all
Industries, Fourchem, Kaza Natural
order sizes on the best possible lead times.
Oils, Millchem, Mireuxus, Orkila, Savannah Fine Chemicals, Symrise,
Visit the Fourchem stand at the HPCI expo and take a selfie in the giant
a responsive and effective business • ‘collaboration’, which shows the company is focused on connections that yield value for all. Savannah has built a reputation based on its quality suppliers and
CJP Chemicals invites you to visit our HPCI Exhibition STAND. 4 - 5 September 2019 at Stand 8 Gallagher Exhibition Centre We will be showcasing ingredients and concept solutions for the home and personal care industries.
Tel: +27 11 494 6700 • www.cjpchemicals.co.za
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
EVENTS
by providing the best ingredients at competitive prices. It utilises support systems that make sense to its customers’ businesses and it has a proven product development capability, which sets Savannah apart.
Proudly tested in Africa by Croda SA Reports show the amount of money being spent on African hair and skin care is rising. While relaxers still make up the majority of the African hair care category, a growing consumer led effort towards virgin hair has shifted industry economics.
Dine and dance the night away The Coschem annual gala dinner promises to be a memorable evening. Entertainers, the Belting Betties are sure to blow away the attendees with their dazzling tunes and moves. These three gorgeous and ridiculously talented female singer/dancers perform a mind-blowing show. The ticket price for the gala dinner is included in the conference registration fee. The dinner is also open to those not attending the conference; if you’re interested in joining everyone for the dinner, you are required to RSVP. Please send an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za.
equipped to analyse the performance of Croda’s active ingredients to meet consumer demand. Through its ‘Proudly Tested in Africa’ initiative, Croda SA continue to gain direct consumer feedback in order to offer a more comprehensive and targeted data package to customers. Visit the Croda team at the HPCI expo to find out more.
The Vantage promise Vantage has a fast growing portfolio of naturally derived ingredients, from farm to your formulations. Founded on a heritage of caring, curiosity and belief in the power of natural chemistry, an entrepreneurial spirit drives the company in its quest to always seek a better way.
Croda SA has commissioned and supported a number of focus
challenges and inspired Croda SA
groups with African women to better
to invest in new analytical and
has emerged as one of the fastest
understand their hair care regime
testing equipment.
growing and most reliable suppliers
and the challenges they face in
The company’s Centre of Excellence
Over the past 10 years, Vantage
of personal care ingredients. With a
maintaining healthy hair and skin.
in South Africa now uses bespoke and
global presence and 13 laboratories
This has given the company’s R&D
unique hair and skin testing methods
around the world, the company
team new insight into their hair care
for the African market. The R&D team is
provides regional support to customers
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
13
EVENTS and delivers essential ingredients for fast innovation. Back integrated into natural oils and oleo chemistry, Vantage uses science to transform naturally derived products by bringing technology from the lab into the global marketplace. Every day, its people are focused on implementing new ways in science and technology to help solve some of the world’s pressing challenges. Vantage’s R&D team does this by applying specialised chemistry and formulations to each specific issue. Visit the Vantage Specialty Chemicals stand at the HPCI expo to learn about its natural innovations and revolutionary products for the African market.
agents, actives, oils and butters, fragrances and preservatives. It also offers technical assistance
Conference programme highlights ‘The conference theme is “Innovating
with formulations and applications to
the Possibility” and the programme
customers using its products.
focusses on the dissemination of
Specialist solutions from Carst & Walker
in South Africa in 1934. Over the
class scientists and professionals to the
The company offers a wide range of
years, it has expanded to become a
African continent,’ comments Wayne van
synthetic and natural speciality raw
substantial importer and distributor
Wyk, chair of the scientific committee
materials for personal and home
of chemical raw materials which find
of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
care products. Carst & Walker South
application in the personal care,
(Coschem). ‘Local and international
Africa’s portfolio includes thickeners,
pharma, adhesive, coatings, food,
presenters have been invited to present
emulsifiers, emollients, texturing
paper, plastics and rubber industries.
posters and papers outlining new research
The company was established
scientific information, bringing world
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
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2017/03/02 11:50 AM
EVENTS and innovative materials that can be brought to market. The scientific conference is central to the ongoing development of the African cosmetics industry and a key platform for knowledge sharing.’ The key note address will be presented by Prof. Dr Dr-Ing Juergen Lademann, head of the Centre of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology from the CharitéUniversitaetsmedizin Berlin, Germany. Lademann is also the current IFSCC president. He will report on Recent Developments of Sunscreens: UV or Light Protection. The programme also features high ranking international and local speakers, who will address burning issues and present
NATURAL BEAUTY: WE MAKE IT SCIENCE
solutions to current challenges in the cosmetics industry. Janusz Luterek of Hahn & Hahn will speak on Intellectual Property, Indigenous Knowledge, and the Biodiversity Act Effect on Cosmetic Product Development. Hugh Fraser of Paragon Architects will present Stop Motion: Languages of City Life: Architectural Fabric and Facets of Human Existence. Karen Swanepoel of the South African Essential Oil Producers Association will discuss the Importance of Essential Oils Standards in South Africa for the Cosmetics Industry. Part of the IFSCC international speaker programme, Tony O’Lenick of Siltech in the USA will discuss Innovating with Minimally Disruptive Formulations and packaging technology will come under the spotlight in a presentation by Sean Kirkham of Teqal, called A Jar is Born. Poonam Sewraj of L’Oréal South Africa will present the results of a Kinetic Study on Scalp Sensitivity Symptoms that occur on the Scalp of African Women. Data sources for safety assessors of cosmetics products will be discussed by Andrea Weber, Dr. Babor’s head of R&D in Germany.
Safety assessment seminar
Mild Anionic Surfactants Amisoft® and Amilite®, formulated from Glutamic Acid, Glycine and Alanine. They impart a smooth & rich foaming to your formulations, without irritation or even a trace of toxicity.
Cosmetics product safety assessments are of utmost importance, because all manufacturers and brand owners are responsible for offering safe products to consumers.
Humectants
The particulars of a safety assessment and the qualification of the safety sssessor are legally defined in some regions, including the European Union. However, a person who meets the qualification also requires the experience and constant training to remain updated on global requirements. For this purpose, 20 years ago, the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent
Ajidew® and Prodew® are all delicately balanced amino acid based moisturizers that are naturally refilling the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor.
Emolients Eldew® is an emollient that adds an elegant sophisticated feel to everything from lipstick and eye make-up to creams, lotions and powders.
Association (IKW) and the German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK) developed a unique training concept. Through individual training segments, they offer the opportunity to achieve a DGK Safety Assessor certificate.
Functional Powder Amihope® LL is a multi-functional powder created from L-Lysine and Lauric Acid. Integrated into powders, creams or lotions, Amihope® LL yields silky richness and a luxurious feel.
At the same time, seminars are hosted with local associations, where safety assessors and interested individuals are given an opportunity to learn about innovations while gaining hands on experience in workshops with peers.
Oil Gelling Agents
During the Coschem scientific conference and HPCI expo,
EB-21 & GP-1, allowing you to obtain clear sticks as well as o/w emulsions with a surprizing, delicate texture.
all interested industry specialists will be able to gain more information on safety assessments. This will be the first IKW designed seminar to be held in South Africa in collaboration with the CTFA. The cost to participate in the safety assessment seminar is included in the Coschem conference registration fee. There is a cost of R800 to attend seminar for anyone not attending the full conference. • Entrance to the HPCI South Africa expo is free for trade
Represented in South Africa by Maccallum Pty Ltd T : +27 11 234 8470 | E : rdt@maccallum.co.za
visitors. Visit www.hpci-events.com to pre-register online.
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
AJINOMOTO COMMERCIAL SOUTH AFRICA_88.5x262mm.indd 1
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HAIR CARE
Inspired by diversity With a population of around 56 million and a shifting demographic profile, the South African hair care market presents brand owners and manufacturers with vast potential for growth. Savannah Fine Chemicals offers a wide range of ingredients and formulation technologies for hair care applications.
T
he South African hair care market is forecast to reach USD496.64 million in value by 2024, registering a CAGR
of 1.36 percent between 2019 and 2024. According to the growth and trends forecast by Mordor Intelligence, women in the country prefer more variety from their hair care products, going from braids and weaves to
OPTIONS TO CONSIDER WHEN FORMULATING SKIMPING ON SILICONES in a hair care formulation isn’t necessarily a good thing. These ingredients play an important role in hair health, its texture and manageability. If you’re looking to include the real
chemical treatments and other drastic
thing in your formulation, Momentive’s Silsoft CLX-E
style changes.
conditioning agent protects hair from sunlight,
The dry climate and rising pollution
pollution, chemical treatments and excessive heat.
levels can affect the quality of South
It can even restore damaged hair to a healthy,
African’s hair. Environmental factors
more youthful state. Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent
such as UV exposure and pollution are known to have damaging effects on the hair and scalp. Keracyn from Provital is an active obtained from artichoke leaves, which are rich in hydroxycinnamic derivatives with antioxidant properties. These
has the ability to form a durable, crosslinked network on hair. This provides improved manageability along with a soft, radiant appearance without weighing down hair or leaving behind residue. The versatile benefits of Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent can also include excellent straightening with virtually no frizz when combined with heat. If your formulation demands an effective,
derivatives prevent the opening of
botanical alternative, Floramac 10 is a non-
hair cuticles and preserve the integrity
volatile substitute for low viscosity silicones. This
and health of the fibre. Ex vivo test
moisturising mixture of macadamia esters can be
results show Keracyn protects and
gelled to mimic the properties of medium viscosity
repairs hair from the damage caused by environmental factors to keep it beautiful and healthy. Provital’s Pronalen Bio-protect is a standardised water soluble plant complex of ginseng, apple, peach,
silicones or it can be used in combination with silicones. Floramac 10 reduces hair breakage and comb force, increases hair shine and provides heat protection. Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent and Floramac 10 can be sourced in South Africa from Savannah.
wheat and barley. The complex has a
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
proven repellent effect,
a single application of Pronalen Bio-
protecting hair from
protect at three percent significantly
pollution. Ex vivo
decreases the amount of pollution
test results show
(PM2.5), adhering to the hair fibre.
HAIR CARE Aprinnova's high quality, natural emollient Neossance Squalane has been proven to outperform argan oil for its conditioning attributes. Neossance Squalane is one of
Oxisense S 0440 was developed in
the best natural emollients on the
Brazil over a two year period and is
global market. When tested in a
backed by external analysis carried
rinse-off conditioner, it provides
out by specialised institutes. The most
better combability than argan oil,
challenging aspect of the research was
is more effective in improving hair’s
to achieve a balanced molecule effective
manageability and body and it
in different shampoo and conditioner
offers 23 percent more frizz control
formulations currently on the market.
than argan oil. When used in a silicone free
Distributed by Savannah, this conditioning agent is compatible with all
conditioner, Neossance Squalane
surfactant classes and can be used in
improved the wet and dry
shampoos, conditioners, treatment masks,
combing, volume and shine of
combing creams, two in one shampoos
the hair tresses tested. This novel
and other leave-on products.
Both Keracyn and Pronalen Bio-
emollient, available locally from
protect are distributed locally
Savannah, offers new options
Combating hair loss
by Savannah.
to formulators to deliver better
The problem of hair loss affects both men
performance in clean label hair
and women and is as a result of various
care products.
reasons. Despite the different aetiologies,
Natural ingredients In the textured hair care category,
there is a common link between all
a large portion of consumers are
New conditioning agent
moving away from harsh chemical
Oxisense S 0440 from Oxiteno is a
cells become latent and hair growth
relaxers in favour of less invasive
new conditioning agent suitable
processes stop.
products to manage their curls.
for price sensitive markets like
Oils, complex treatments and nourishing hair foods are more in demand than ever before.
South Africa. It could potentially
DID YOU KNOW?
be used as a replacement for Polyquaternium 10,
causes of hair loss – the dermal papilla
Vytrus Biotech’s ingredient Capilia Longa PPF, made from Curcuma longa (turmeric) callus culture, offers a solution for hair loss. It achieves
Cationic Guar and
Redken’s new Nature + Behentrimonium Science range is housed in from a variety of the recyclable packaging and features Chloride. three of the brand’s best-selling Cannabis plant, is According cleansing conditioning duos. known to naturally to Oxiteno, the Each addresses specific needs, calm inflammation such as damage repair, product was colour protection and softening of the scalp and inspired by the hair strands. They are also to condition the diversity of global formulated with 100 percent strands, promoting fibre natural fragrances. hair types. It can be
hair growth
Hemp oil derived
rejuvenation, improved
added to a shampoo or
reactivation through a biological approach because it’s rich in signalling peptides specially designed to create the optimal micro-environment to re-activate growth. Available in South Africa from Savannah, Capilia LongaPPF produces an epigenetic
appearance and a softer
reset of the hair bulb, re-activating the
hair texture.
activity within the dermal papilla cells while
Stearic Acid is one of the main
simultaneously nourishing the hair follicle
constituents of hemp seed oil. This
with a nutritive blend.
constituent contributes to its ability
A full panel of in vitro and in vivo tests
to condition and protect hair from
have been done to demonstrate the
damage without diminishing lustre
efficacy of Capilia LongaPPF. It boosts
or weighing it down. Savannah
hair growth density and quality, delays
distributes refined and virgin hemp
hair loss, strengthens the hair, activates
seed oil from Olvea Vegetable Oils
hair follicle regeneration, stimulates bulb
which are ideal for use in hair and
micro-circulation and nutrition and resets
skin care applications.
the hair cycle, extending the Anagen
The inclusion of natural
phase while delaying the start of the
ingredients with moisturising
inactive phases, both in men and women
properties is also very popular
with any kind of alopecia. •
due to their conditioning benefits.
conditioner formulation to promote
Shea butter and olive, argan and
frizz control and support damage
monoi oils are some of the natural
prevention. It also promises to
ingredients in high demand.
leave hair smoother and softer.
Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
17
HAIR CARE
Science based green beauty blends This year, sustainability and biodegradability are at the forefront of hair care developments. Vantage’s latest sustainable innovation is a combination of moisturising jojoba oil and plant based ethoxylation chemistry to create a water soluble humectant.
J
ojoba Aqua Bio-120 (INCI:
non-ionic surfactant or
Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters)
formulation solubiliser.
is a naturally derived water
The emollient wax is designed
soluble jojoba wax ester. It’s
on the basis of ‘from the farms
sustainable, naturally sourced and free
of Vantage Specialty Ingredients
of petroleum derived materials. The
to your formulations’ to bring the
bio ethylene oxide (EO) is derived from
moisturisation of DW Jojoba Oil in
non-GMO corn. This is combined
a water soluble form. It provides
with jojoba oil to create a new high performance, ecofriendly ingredient. Positioned as a
the hair softening and
DID YOU KNOW?
conditioning properties associated with DW
Jojoba Oil in an easy to DW Jojoba Oil is sourced use water-soluble form. from plants grown on Vantage’s ingredient, Jojoba farms in the Sonoran Desert, North America and Aqua Bio-120 provides Natural and easy in Patagonian emolliency to the skin and to use Desert, Argentina. hair. It also acts as a mild Jojoba oil is a liquid multifunctional
wax ester unlike all other naturally occurring oils, including vegetable oils, which are triglycerides. As a result, jojoba oil is non-occlusive and has superior
water or surfactant based formulations
performance and properties like
and aids in fragrance oil solubilisation in
non-greasy emolliency and high
aqueous solutions.
oxida¬tive stability.
In surfactant systems, Jojoba Aqua
Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 is easy
Bio-120 contributes to foam thickening,
to incorporate into a variety of
increasing its creaminess and aiding
surfactant based products. It may
the perception of a pleasant film residue
be used in both hot process and
even after rinse off.
cold process applications and does not have a negative impact on foam generation in rinse off applications. It is also a clarifying agent for all
Shampoo evaluation The sensorial benefits of three percent Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 were evaluated
Straight, Curly or Styled –
We supply raw materials for making Haircare Products PG USP Lime Caustic all types Thioglycolates Surfactants Preservatives Emollients
Emulsifiers Potassium Hydroxide Glycerine PEG’s Alcohols Claims
Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 | Cape Town (021) 534 3140 | Durban (031) 902 5324 | Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
HAIR CARE Table 1: Clean and gentle shampoo
COCONUT-AVOCADO HAIR MILK
Phase Ingredient
INCI
A
Deionised Water
Water
A
Glycerin
Glycerin
DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR hair care applications,
B
Carbopol Aqua SF-1
Acrylates Copolymer
10.00
Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk is a stable, water thin, oil in water
C
Hamposyl L-30K
Water (and) Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate
10.00
emulsion. It is prepared by ultrasonic cavitation utilising oils
C
Metaupon KMT 30
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
4.00
with known benefits for hair and a plant based, biomimetic
C
Natriumisethionat Fest
Sodium Isethionate
6.00
phospholipid, resulting in the formation of micro-droplets.
C
Jojoba Aqua Bio 120
Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters
3.00
D
Deionised Water
Water
1.00
has a natural affinity for hair because nearly half of its fatty
D
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
0.20
acid profile made up of Lauric Acid. Hair protein easily binds
E
Phenoxyethanol
Phenoxyethanol
1.00
E
Sensiva SC50
Ethylhexylglycerin
0.10
F
Sodium Hydroxide 20% solution
Water (and) Sodium Hydroxide
1.80
The milk easily penetrates and nourishes hair. Coconut oil
with Lauric Acid, gradually leading to the strengthening of hair strands and reducing breakage. Avocado oil, rich in fatty acids and vitamins essential for healthy hair and skin, imparts an overall luxurious and creamy feel. Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk is stable, versatile and easy to use. It is suitable even for sprayable and cold process formulations. The recommended use level is up to 20 percent in a variety of hair care applications, including shampoos, conditioners, masks, treatments and styling products. It can also be promoted to consumers as a 100 percent booster to be mixed their existing beauty products. When formulating, Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk should be added post emulsification, post neutralisation or as a final step at temperatures below 35°C.
% 59.90 3.00
A mild sulphate free shampoo with a creamy texture which is gentle on the hair and scalp
using a Mannequin head. The test
and improved conditioning,
method involved a half head with a
especially at the hair ends,
control formulation while a Jojoba
versus the placebo.
Aqua Bio-120 based shampoo was
It also significantly
used on the other half. Only shampoo
increased the
was used for the evaluation.
sensorial feel
The results revealed Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 improved wet and dry
during and after application. •
combability due to the formation of a film when compared to the placebo. Without conditioner, Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 modified the texture of hair
Vantage Specialty Ingredients – kim@lipo.co.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
19
HAIR CARE
Beautiful hair starts at the scalp Consumers’ lifestyle and diet as well as the environment and pollution impact the health of their skin and scalp. Lubrizol strongly believes the scalp is the soil of the hair. If cared for, nurtured and protected, the scalp will contribute to hair’s health and appearance.
L
DID YOU KNOW?
ubrizol’s experts have developed a range
Even after deep rinsing, particles in traditional scrubs
may stick to the scalp or The newest product launched hair, leaving behind an in the Tela Life Force Probiotic Haircare Collection is the unpleasant sensation. to clean, sooth and probiotic scalp scrub. The scrub Sugar used in scrubs nourish the scalp. is formulated with more than 35 eliminates this issue as Named A Good Start, certified organics, superfruits and sugar esters to support the the particles fully dissolve this concept includes hair and scalp and designed while rinsing with water. two pre-shampoos, two to be used as a preCompletely anhydrous, shampoos and one leaveshampoo treatment. this polyols based gel on formulation. of five innovative formulations
creates moisturisation, enhances
The combination of olive and argan oils contributes to nourishing the scalp Gentle antidandruff shampoo This type of shampoo is the most popular product in the scalp care segment. Yet the stabilisation of anti-dandruff actives such as zinc pyrithione remains a challenge. Besides the poor visuals, the default of
Stimulating sugar scrub
spreading on scalp and avoids the
stabilisation can also affect the deposition
With only eight ingredients, this
dissolution of sugar in the formula.
of the active on the scalp.
affordable. The mechanical action
Sebum control mask
has specifically developed this shampoo
of the sugar particles promotes
When the scalp overproduces sebum,
to maximise formulation stability and
exfoliation of the scalp, removing
it feels greasy and appears shiny.
deposition of the anti-dandruff agent on
formulation is very simple and
In response to these challenges, Lubrizol
Consumers who experience this
dead cells and stimulating
should apply the sebum control mask
blood circulation.
the scalp. The addition of two conditioning
for five to 10 minutes before rinsing
polymers helps to detangle and enhance
and shampooing.
the wet and dry feel of the hair.
This formulation consists of 10 percent clay and will absorb excess
Oil pearls scalp elixir
sebum. It will also contribute to
An oil based and silicone free serum is
hydrating the scalp and relieving
ideal for damaged hair and a sensitive
itchiness together with the presence
scalp. The combination of olive and argan
of humectant and eucalyptus oil. The
oils contributes to nourishing the scalp,
mousse texture is pleasant and easy to
making the hair smoother and shinier
apply thanks to the use of an efficient
while preventing a greasy feel. Pemulen
conditioning polymer.
EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier gives this scalp elixir a unique fresh sensory and stunning
Detox and exfoliating shampoo
appearance by suspending oil droplets
This two in one shampoo is designed
of the formulation guarantees optimal
for consumers looking for a simple,
spreading over the hair and scalp. •
into the aqueous gel. The low viscosity
convenient and high performing scalp care routine. It will clean the hair and gently eliminate dirt and dead skin cells on the scalp thanks to the natural
Lubrizol – www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care
apricot shell particles.
“Manufacturers of self adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, folding cartons, sachets & wrappers.” Email quotes@clomark.com
ISO 9001: 2015
20
Telephone 011-314 5444
LEVEL 1 B-BBEE
| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
Website www.clomark.com
ISO 14001: 2015
HAIR CARE
Sustainable, next level ingredients Hair is not only a unique personal characteristic; it also creates a perception of one’s health and beauty. With sustainability, traceability and product efficacy driving fundamental changes in the hair care industry, Givaudan Active Beauty presents a range of innovative solutions for on-trend hair care products.
C
onsumers are mindful about their product preference and interested in
integrating health and wellness into their lives. As a result, they expect brands to fully incorporate health, beauty and sustainability in their
DID YOU KNOW?
plant sources of Givaudan Active Beauty experts love to go further. The bisabolol to offer company will be unveiling an innovative and a new sustainable hair care active ingredient renewable solution. during September. This helps brands Watch this space for more information. develop new, fully
product offerings.
natural formulations
Givaudan Active Beauty understands
hair care. Knowing that after clinical trials, 96 percent of consumers would continue using a product formulated ResistHyal, is the best reward the company could expect.
A leave-on option Beauty brands and their ingredients
expected by consumers.
suppliers are also encouraging consumers
these new needs by integrating them into
to save water. This is key to sustainability
its active ingredients. Represented locally
Natural beauty enhancer
by The Care Co., it embraces sustainability
Givaudan Active Beauty likes to innovate in
its active ingredient Darkenyl has been
and hair care health in many ways.
all areas and sustainability is one of them.
developed to be suitable for leave-on
The company recently launched
Biorefinery is at the core of its production
formulations. Sustainability, like ageing
Bisabolife. This active ingredient is a
plant while raw materials such as wheat
hair, is a global concern.
sustainable molecule produced using an
and sugar beets are sourced from farmers
exclusive fermentation process. Fully
in France, where the company is based.
bio-sourced, it takes care of sensitive
at Givaudan Active Beauty and a reason
Givaudan’s skin experts have designed Darkenyl to counteract the hair whitening
With a naturality index of over 98
biological process, by combining two
skin and scalp by fortifying, soothing
percent, ResistHyal is the very first bio-active
synergistic molecules, the taxifolin
and restoring comfort. Bisabolife also
ingredient based on the natural properties
glucoside, a unique stabilised plant
reduces skin redness and in a post shaving
of hyaluronic acid – a major polymer of
polyphenol and N-acetyl Tyrosine, a
application it offers an instant soothing
the human body. This multifunctional
soluble precursor of melanin synthesis.
benefit (-81 percent versus a placebo in a
active delivers several benefits, including
clinical test).
hydration, natural volume, frizz control,
use in a hair colour recovery spray leave-
increased shine, improved softness and
on formulation. •
Bisabolife is strictly identical to the plant active isomer of (-)-α-bisabolol,
This active ingredient is suitable for
better hair resistance.
known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-
Thanks to Active Beauty’s expertise in
oxidant, mildly astringent and healing
hyaluronic acid, the open platform of
properties. Givaudan Active Beauty has
ResistHyal allows brands to create new
looked beyond the existing chemical or
innovative end products and rituals for
Givaudan Active Beauty – www.givaudan.com The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za
ingredient suppliers skin care, hair care, body care, masks, active, functional, visual, vectorised ingredients, oils, butters, scrubs, clays, plant extracts, rheologicals, emulsifiers, esters, nail polish, nail treatments, polish removers, pigments, colour cosmetics, hair bleach, dyes, specialised packaging, jars, bottles, tubes, plastic, halal tel: +27112685555 • email: info@careco.co.za • www.careco.co.za • unit 15, 1 melrose boulevard, melrose arch, johannesburg • unit 207a, soho building, 2 rose street, cape town, south africa
68. Care Co Sticker - P&C Advert 2019 (176x65mm)®®.indd 1
2019/07/23 10:02 AM
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
21
HAIR CARE
Scalp wellness is always in style The healthier the scalp, the healthier the hair – this idea has been the springboard for the latest product launches in the global hair care industry. Shani Vermeulen of Cosmetic Ingredients shares insight into the attributes of beautiful hair, of which scalp care is paramount.
I
n a world where overall wellness is a key
Associated with
concept, consumers are homing in on
dandruff, Malassezia
scalp care because the scalp is not just
helps maintain the
any skin tissue. It is highly specialised
acid balance on the
because of the various functions it
scalp by breaking down the
performs, such as being a physical barrier,
triglycerides in sebum, with oleic acid as
an immunological protector, a thermal
one of a few by-products.
regulator and a sebum producer. It contains a high number of blood vessels,
The causes of dandruff
sebaceous glands and sweat glands to
When the microflora balance is
perform these functions. The sebaceous
disturbed by external factors, such
glands lubricate and waterproof the scalp
as chemicals, UV exposure,
and hair and the sweat glands regulate
sunburn, or mechanical stress,
the body temperature by perspiring.
it affects the condition of
We all have lipophilic microflora,
the scalp or traumatises the
including Malassezia species, on
hair follicle. The result is an
the surface of our scalps which live
increase in internal factors,
symbiotically with their human hosts.
including sebum production,
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
HAIR CARE
Blurred lines between hair and skin care The latest line up of scalp specific products has been designed with the ‘crossover’ trend in mind. Their benefits go beyond that of a regular dandruff shampoo with lotions, masks and spot treatments reimagined for hair and scalp care. Innovative examples include Oribe Scalp Soothing Leave-On Treatment, Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub With Sea Salt, and R+Co Acid Wash ACV Cleansing Rinse. Source: www.thecut.com
stems, leaves or fruits, but still produces much more oxygen than it requires. The marine plant releases the excess oxygen to the environment and is widely recognised for its therapeutic, regenerating and toning properties. Seaweed also contains high concentrations of proteins, vitamins and mineral salts. These benefits are harnessed in Assessa, which helps protect the scalp against irritation caused by chemical hair straighteners and dyes. It is also often used in combination with traditional antidandruff agents since it assists in balancing oil levels on the scalp and in this way, potentiates anti-dandruff action.
Combat hair loss
DID YOU KNOW?
any of these for lengthy periods create
The continuous traumatisation and
a warm and humid microclimate on the
microinflammation of the hair follicle
scalp. This also happens to be the ideal environment for microbes to flourish.
results in hair loss. This is evident in the receding hairlines of women whose scalps have been regularly exposed to hair
The main fatty acid of the hair fibre’s lipid composition is known as 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid or 18-MEA.
Actives for a healthy scalp
straighteners. Traction alopecia is the result
It has been shown dandruff control
of hair having been pulled too tightly when
eventually results in normalisation
applying braids and extensions.
of the stratum corneum. Cosmetic Ingredients’ anhydrous blend
Bioex Capillar CP4G is a complex of plant extracts traditionally used in preventing
aMaloCoat AD enables formulators
and combating hair loss. The complex
to incorporate the anti-dandruff agent Zinc
is enriched with Acetyl Methionine, an
immune response and sweat, leading to
Pyrithione into hair food and hair
amino acid essential for the formation
excessive production of oleic acid, which is
oil products.
and development of healthier, strong hair.
very irritating to skin. If the over-production
Aqia’s Tribocontrol CO is a rebalancing
Bioex Capillar CP4G is suggested for the
and irritation are not addressed, dandruff
plant complex, which consists of essential
treatment and prevention of excessive hair
eventually develops. Even without flaking,
oils, flavonoids, glucosides, terpenes,
loss, due to its proven action of hair growth
stratum corneum abnormalities occur
coumarins, mucilage, tannins and
and hair bulb restoration. •
throughout the scalp of dandruff sufferers.
Rosmarinic Acid. It promotes hair and scalp
These range from hyperproliferation and
cleansing from the root, by controlling
lipid droplets within corneocytes to fewer
excessive oil. It restores the balance of oily
desmosomes and excessively disorganised
hair without drying and helps to prevent
intercellular lipids.
dryness, itching and irritation of the scalp.
Helmets, hats and weaves all have the potential to cause scalp problems – wearing
Ormagel XPU from Assessa is a natural algae extract. Seaweed has no roots,
Johannesburg Johannesburg Head Head Office Office Sevens WarehouseComplex Complex Seven Warehouse 33 Bernie Street, Unit Kya Sands Sands Bernie Street, Unit 3, 3, Kya Tel. Tel. No.: No.: +27 +27 (0) (0) 11 11 708-0007 708-0007 www.braganchemicals.co.za Musa Sibanda +27 (0) 66 485 4622 musa@braganchemicals.co.za
Aqia –www.aqia.net/en Assessa – www.assessa.com.br/en Cosmetic Ingredients – www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za
DurbanOffice Office Durban Tel.No.: No.:+27 +27(0) (0)8383252 3034826 7320 Tel. Cape Town Office Cape Town Office Tel. No.: +27 (0) 78 780 9976 Tel. No.: +27 (0) 78 780 9976 Port Elizabeth Office Port Tel. Elizabeth No.: +27 Office (0) 71 213 9288 Tel. No.: +27 (0) 71 213 9288 www.braganchemicals.co.za
WE IT TAKES TAKES WEDO DOWHAT WHAT IT P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
23
HAIR CARE
Silikes – a substitute for silicones
Maian, a new principal of Millchem, has developed a complete line of natural silicone substitutes. Silikes offer a one to one natural replacement for a wide variety of silicones, providing a game changer for hair care formulations.
I
t is essential that companies adapt to
silicones. They are developed and
the accumulation of residues. Another
consumers’ requirements in terms of
produced in Brazil, where Maian is based
remarkable property of Silikes is their sensorial
sustainability, transparency and
and which is home to one of the largest
similarity to silicones, which provides an
choice of ingredients. Consumers
hair care markets worldwide.
extremely pleasant feel on hair.
want clean products based on simple
Silikes are available in the most varied
Silikes have the same film forming
formulations and often value those with
viscosities and some options are more
properties as silicones and impart softness
natural ingredients.
volatile than others. This provides a wide
and silkiness. Because both compounds
variety of alternatives for skin and hair
are so similar, Silikes can be used in a
care applications.
formulation to accomplish the same
Silikes have the same film forming properties as silicones As a result, Maian has developed
purpose as a silicone. They are suitable
Like for like
for use in conditioners, combing creams,
If you’re looking to replace traditional
anti-frizz serums and other leave on hair
silicones in hair care products, Silikes offer a
care products. •
good alternative. These volatile compounds
Silikes – a range of natural silicone
do not seal the hair strands in a way that
substitutes. These ingredients maintain
would leave them impermeable.
the performance and physico-chemical and sensorial characteristics of traditional
They also contribute to the pleasant effect of emollience without build up or
INNOVATION BY NATURE Millchem is proud to introduce our new agency MAIAN from Brazil, providing clean beauty with a natural replacement for silicones, lanolin, mineral oil, and vaseline. A complete line of natural silicone substitutes, SILIKES, is now available. Email giulio@millchem.co.za for further information. JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
Maian – www.maian.com.br/en Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
HAIR CARE
Committed to sustainability with new ISO data
Croda has been working hard to create an extensive list of products, which according to ISO 16128 guidelines, are natural, organic or mineral cosmetics ingredients. The company recently launched this new ISO 16128 data.
U
ntil now, there has been no industry
50 percent when calculated using one
a list of products in line with the ISO 16128
wide definition for ‘natural’, so the
of the methods stated in the ISO 16128
guideline is just one example of how the
rise in popularity of the ISO 16128
standard. It is important to note this is not
company is doing this.
data is not surprising. According
a certification but a guide to calculating
Sederma, Croda and Crodarom have
to Mintel, from 2012 to 2018 there was a 50
and categorising personal care ingredients.
an extensive list of products that meet
percent increase in personal care products
This is to aid ingredients selection when
the definitions outlined in the ISO 16128
claiming to be ‘all natural’.
formulating, to meet consumers’ growing
standard. These have been embedded in
Clean beauty, DIY beauty and vegan beauty have all contributed to the significant growth in demand for natural ingredients and formulations
demand for natural cosmetics.
its online product finder, making it quick
Trends such as clean beauty, DIY beauty
and easy to locate them when searching
Natural chemistry heritage Chris Sayner, Croda’s vice president
innovating with more natural and
‘Given our company’s long established
sustainable ingredients whilst growing
and industry leading heritage in natural
its list of personal care technologies with
chemistry, more than 60 percent of our raw
natural certifications or compliance. •
materials come from bio-based sources.
the significant growth in demand for natural
We are pleased to offer a wide range of
ingredients and formulations.
ingredients meeting the ISO16128 standard.’
mineral’, products must be greater than
The global company is constantly
of corporate sustainability, comments:
and vegan beauty have all contributed to
To be defined ‘natural, organic or
for products with natural credentials.
Croda is passionate about helping
Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com
customers meet market demands. Creating
CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS
MATTE & SHINE
If the runways of the leading fashion designers are anything to go by, the trends in make-up and styling are dominated by two looks: matte and shine. The fresh, young shine look is achieved with a radiant make-up complemented by healthy glossy hair. The “undone” appearance of matte, on the other hand, is created by nude-make-up and faded gloss in beach waves. Whether for hair care, skin care or makeup – achieve the perfect matte or shine look with BELSIL ® silicones and HDK ® silicas from WACKER.
Your official distributor in South Africa
www.wacker.com/personalcare
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
25
COLOUR COSMETICS
Artistic, bright, bold and beautiful
Every year, fashion trends shift the beauty world to a new place of innovation. They inspire agencies and ingredient suppliers to collaborate on colour forecasts, which help brand owners and manufacturers create colour cosmetics consumers will love. By Abby Vorster
M
erck’s colour forecasts
The first look, Solar Celebration
Experimental woman is fascinated
have been shaping
is based on a makeup palette that
by the vital force of plants and the
makeup palettes for
gives skin a sun kissed look and
development of microorganisms. In her
decades. According to
warm radiance. On the eyes, shades
personal style, she pushes biomimicry
the Beauty Business Journal, creating
of red earth and clayey browns
to self-metamorphoses and dares to
the right colour palette is an important
are combined with the colours of a
wear the craziest contrasts.
element of a product’s success.
canyon’s fiery sky. The deep, dense
Colour forecasting also provides
pigments of Neo Folk – the second look
a reliable gauge of next season’s
– plunge into twilight spirituality. Sticky,
popular colours.
oily textures are crushed and spread
For its 2019 spring/summer colour forecast, Merck has focused heavily
like fruit directly applied onto the skin. Its textures like these which inspired
Solar Celebration is based on a makeup palette that gives skin a sun kissed look and warm radiance
on fusions of the natural and artificial,
Merck’s glossy lip finish formulation
bringing interesting contradictions into
(see Table 1). Hot and almost molten in
play. Developed in collaboration with
texture, this innovative lip care product
NellyRodi, a renowned international
is based on the deep red of Merck’s
forecasting agency, the Captivation
Ronastar Flaming Lights and Ronastar
variety of bright, fresh shades. There
forecast presents four key themes.
Red Allure with Colorona Red Brown,
are two looks, one for the daytime
protected by RonaCare AP.
and another bolder evening look.
Solar Shaman
Green is present in this theme in a
Green Lab is based on laboratory
Karen Maier, Merck’s head of
Organic Experimental
romanticism, with pastels and
performance materials in South Africa,
Consumers want beauty brands to be
variations of pink in the palette. In
says the Solar Shaman theme is a
ethical. Mintel’s trends and innovation
Micro Organism the colours become
good look for the local market. It is
consultant, Marta Panasiuk says
deep and intense, with dense reds
natural; Ethnic; full of sunshine, light
consumers judge beauty brands by
spread over midnight blues and
and earthy tones; primitive and it
the way they treat their employees,
heavy greens – a perfect palette for
celebrates life.
suppliers and the communities within
the evening.
‘The main colour range resonates
the regions in which they operate.
with South African skin tones and is
‘Sustainability is also important, but
Magnetic Vestal
complementary to local consumers’
companies have to be totally credible
Ethereal, sophisticated, digital and
needs,’ she explains.
and transparent,’ Panasiuk comments.
evanescent, the Magnetic Vestal
Solar Shaman celebrates life to
Sustainable, green innovations are
woman is radiant and captivated by
the rhythm of the sun and earth.
the starting point for Merck’s Organic
Influenced by tribal cults and primitive
Experimental theme, which has a
rituals, this woman envisages the
strong multifunctional focus on ‘care
and glow are key characteristics of this
world from a mystical point of view. Her
and colour’ or ‘colour and protect’
theme,’ comments Maier. ‘Both the
inspirations are the fruit of the cultural
concepts. It speaks to the curious,
Luminescence Fantasy and Floating
melting pot assembled in a joyous
ingenious consumer who believes
Cloud looks of Magnetic Vestal
tumult of psychedelic chaos.
in the power of nature. The Organic
require metallics in order for the trend
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
the sun’s magnetic glow. ‘Strobing, radiance, luminescence
COLOUR COSMETICS
Table 1: Glossy lip finish
Phase Ingredients
A
B
INCI
the Sassy Candid
%
woman aims for
Colorona Red Brown
Mica, CI 77491, CI 77891
5.00
Ronastar Flaming Lights
Synthetic Sapphire, CI 77491
3.30
Ronastar Red Allure
CI 77491, CI 77891, Silica, Mica
1.70
RonaCare AP
Bis-ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate
0.50
lifestyle manifesto.
Fragrance Rose Fruitee FEMA
Parfum
0.20
Both the Cute Couture
Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate
Proplyparaben
0.10
and Abstract Gaming are suitable for
Rheopearl KL2
Dextrin Palmitate
1.00
the South African market.
Rheopearl ISL2
Stearoyl Inulin
9.00
Versagel ME 500
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylene/ Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/ Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, BHT
79.20
good taste and declares couture her new
Cute Couture features touches of pink applied generously to the cheeks, while eyes and nails play on whimsical asymmetric patterns. Colours
to be effective. Eyeliners are used in
The face plays to the rhythm of the
unconventional ways, from interesting
vibrant colours of virtual light and
effects to geometric shapes.’
the techno rainbows of pastel tones
Floating Cloud consists of a natural
showcase an array of satiny pastels and patinated crepe like textures, highlighted by golds and bronzes.
evident in the Luminescence Fantasy
palette imagined like astral nudes with
look. Skin is shiny, iridescent and
gradations of greys, beiges and gold,
radiant; cheeks and eyes are revealed
which enhance the skin. Touches of
through irregular haloes.
The Abstract Gaming look flaunts an assortment of daring, playful colours. Reds and fuchsias merge while classic red is twisted by fluoro tones. Lips are striking and eyes dazzle
silver illuminate the neck, creating a
with self-assurance. •
gentle floating impression. Lips are
Sassy Candid
enriched with warm gold and light shine
This young and cheeky theme is pretty,
while chrome like tones accentuate
sophisticated, refined and humorous.
the eyes.
Ultra-femininity takes centre stage as
Merck – www.merckgroup.com
Advantages at a glance • White matte effect pigment with subtle luminosity • Outstanding velvety skin feeling • Perfect for skin tone adjustment offering natural glow
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
27
COLOUR COSMETICS
Pigments and dyes to make an impact IMCD South Africa has developed an excellent reputation among customers for its one stop shop solution. The company recently welcomed a new managing director and has just been awarded a new distribution agreement from Koel Colours, bringing its broad range of high quality, competitive pigments and dyes to the local market.
T
o support its role as a
customers with colours they can feel
Harrison has taken over from Otto
leading speciality chemicals
and which resonate with consumers
Brinkmann, who has retired. Brinkmann
and food ingredients
on a deeper level.
joined the company in May 1982, which
distributor, IMCD operates
45 laboratories in over 20 countries. The company’s focused laboratory technical teams are at the heart of its technical operations, building, maintaining and expanding relationships with suppliers and customers to create growth opportunities and
At the HPCI India exhibition in
DID YOU KNOW?
March, the company received the Innovation Award in the category Best
The KoelOR portfolio of Ingredients for Altered lake colours from Koel is more stable than water soluble colours Black. This unique and widely used in the cosmetics, innovation boasts pharma and food industries. These regulated, high purity synthetic and a ground-breaking natural colourants confirm to the US technology that and EC colour specifications and meet Directive 95/45/EC. They have provides non-nano, extremely high colour value water dispersible and and an extremely fine particle size with a high degree dust-free carbon black of consistency. for cosmetics and personal
deliver value. IMCD newest supplier is Koel
care applications. This award
was then Chemimpo SA and which IMCD acquired in 2013. He started as a sales representative and moved through the ranks to eventually become MD. During Brinkmann’s time with the company it has grown consistently at a rate of between 20 and 30 percent per annum. He attributes this success to the strong supplier focus of IMCD. Harrison holds a BSC honours degree in chemistry and applied chemistry; he served as MD of Chemfit for the last 10 years. His experience spans coatings, surfactants and animal health and
from SOFW Journal’s HPCI Events
nutrition. In Harrison’s new role, he will
Colours after the distribution
recognises Koel’s endeavours to excel
drive the development and execution
agreement was made official in June.
in the industry, by developing unique
of IMCD’s strategy and expand the
Based in India, Koel has emerged
technologies that
company’s range of applications and
as a leading supplier of superior
aim to empower
expertise in all segments of the South
quality colours and pigments for
the formulators to
African and Kenyan markets.
the personal care and pharma
produce improved
industries. As a leading supplier of
innovations.
wide range of colourants, Koel has
Koel specialises
IMCD’s personal care laboratories, including the Ethnic Hair Care Centre of Excellence in Johannesburg,
extensive market coverage in both the
in organic
South Africa, are used as supportive
cosmetics and pharma industries.
and inorganic
facilities to develop synergies within
pigments as well
the portfolios of its suppliers. These labs
as oil and water-
also develop formulation prototypes
soluble colours
that answer new trends, carrying out
for cosmetics
projects designed by the technical
The company is home to a fully integrated, state of the art manufacturing facility, which is approved by the Indian FDA for manufacturing all kinds of colours,
Ryan Harrison
and personal care
team and they develop knowledge on
iron oxides and titanium oxides.
applications. It also manufactures
ingredients and formulation concepts,
It provides technical support to
colour solutions for nail care, colour
for future interaction with the sales team
all its customers in the form of
mud for lip care applications and a
and IMCD’s customers. •
an application laboratory and
special grade of carbon black.
formulation expertise. Koel is in the field of colours, utilising
Local operation welcomes new MD
technology, innovation and its
On 1 April, Ryan Harrison joined IMCD
expertise to consistently provide
South Africa as managing director.
dedicated to pursuing excellence
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za Koel Colours – www.koelcolours.com
Exclusive agent in the RSA
COLOUR COSMETICS
A grand vision for growth at 16! Quantum Colours is celebrating its 16th anniversary. This significant milestone coincides with the launch of its new multi-million Rand manufacturing and R&D facility at its premises in Samrand, Gauteng.
The Quantum Colours’ team celebrating 16 years in business
facilitate ease of cleaning.
DID YOU KNOW?
The floors are vinyl coated, giving our
Quantum Colours is an environmentally friendly company. It has upgraded the packaging of its products to a custom made, branded and more sustainable solution.
of Geotech International in South Africa, to market and sell its effect pigments to manufacturers in the cosmetics, coatings
facility a seamless
and plastics industries. Geotech, based
look and feel. The floor
in Haarlem, The Netherlands
areas are also sloped
manufactures and distributes
to aid drainage. The
pearlescent pigments, aluminium
reverse osmosis water
pigments and glitter, which all are
plant has also been upgraded to facilitate the heightened demand for good quality water.’
REACH compliant. The distribution agreement has also seen Quantum Colours adding a range of international quality cosmetics
Quantum Colours has also divided its
pigments to its already wide range of
laboratory area into a quality control lab,
products. These specialised products
stablished in 2003 by Lonsdale
instrument room and an innovation and
include FDA certified calcium, aluminium
O’Donovan, Quantum Colours
R&D facility with ample space for new
and barium lakes.
has expanded internationally with
product development. These three
representation in Germany and
areas have all been constructed under
PET free glittering effects
positive airflow.
After a period of high demand for
E
Canada. The company manufactures, markets and distributes under licence
‘I would like to take this opportunity to
matte and soft tone effects, according
from Spectratec, a Canadian business.
thank our agents and customers, who
to Geotech, the trend towards
Quantum Colours’ products are also
have been part of Quantum Colours’
glittering effects, preferably PET free,
available in Australia, Ireland and the UK
journey over the past 16 years.
is growing.
through its agent, Carst & Walker.
Thank you for your continued and loyal
PET free is crucial and plays a major
support. We hope to continue to be of
role in the global industry’s efforts to
dedicated dispensing and manufacturing
assistance to you by adding life to colour,
prevent the build-up of microplastics in
cubicles with positive air pressure and
into the future,’ he adds.
the environment. Water quality, animal
‘Our manufacturing facility now includes
filtered air,’ explains O’Donovan, Quantum
and human health concerns are some of
Colours’ managing director. ‘The walls
New distribution agreement
the drivers of the initiatives to stop
and ceilings are panelled with ISO walling
In March, Quantum Colours was
using microplastics. The demand for
and have coved corners throughout to
appointed the exclusive distributor
environment friendly glitter started
30
| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
COLOUR COSMETICS GEARING UP FOR GLOBAL GROWTH QUANTUM COLOURS WILL be exhibiting at CPhI Worldwide in Frankfurt, Germany, taking place from 5 to 7 November. The company hopes to market its highly successful Pharmaspec HPPV, FCPV, FCHP, FC (Protect) and FCEN (A, B and C) branded tablet coating range. Quantum Colours will also use the exhibition as a platform to find a strategic business partner for the US and Brazilian markets.
Guests of Quantum Colours and employees at the company’s 16th anniversary celebration
last year and is anticipated to grow as the nature of ingredients in consumer products becomes more important. Although PET glitter contributes only a small amount to water pollution worldwide, it’s relatively easy to avoid and there are environmentally friendly alternatives available on the market. Because of consumers’ concerns about microplastics, the industry is looking for alternatives to traditional polyester based flakes, or Polyethylene Terephthalate. While biodegradable glitter tends to have limitations mainly due to stability issues, coarse pearlescent pigments based on glass flakes (Calcium Sodium Borosilicate) and synthetic mica (Synthetic Fluorphlogopite) don’t have any shortcomings. Coarse pearlescent pigments, particularly those with a narrow particle size distribution, represent the next generation of products to create glittering effects in consumer products. To meet market demands, Geotech has compiled a presentation on PET free glittering effects using alternative raw materials, which provide an outstanding sparkling reflection of light. This selection of Geopearl and Geodiamond special effect pigments offer sophisticated glittering effects without the negative impact on the environment. The products are approved for use in cosmetics without restrictions and are said to be even more stable than traditional PET based glitter. Flakes with particle sizes up to 1 000μm are included in the portfolio.•
Makina Chengetai of Quantum Colours pictured alongside the company’s new ribbon blender with built-in refiner
Geotech – www.geotech.nl/en Quantum Colours – www.quantumcolours.com
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
31
COLOUR COSMETICS
A journey through colour The Care Co. takes care of all your colour requirements from start to finish.
Iron oxides are naturally occurring mineral deposits. When used in cosmetics, the deposits are synthetically
IN THE BEGINNING
enhanced to remove any impurities.
Pigments were originally derived from the earth and animals.
Mica is a shiny silicate mineral, found in granite and other rocks in minute amounts.
EVOLUTION TO SYNTHETIC COLOUR
Glitter is an aluminium foil, which creates a bright shimmering reflective light.
Fluorescents contain substances that respond to UV, creating a bright and glowing effect by reflecting and absorbing light.
Biodegradable glitter is produced from wood pulp, making it a natural and renewable resource. It is vegan, PET and heavy metal free, does not contain any allergens and isn’t tested on animals.
TODAY'S WORLD OF COLOUR COSMETICS
Natural colours are in high demand with the trend towards transparency and the greater sustainability movement. These pigments are environmentally friendly, sustainable, animal
evolution in fluorescents.
friendly, hypo-allogenic and
32
Fluorphlogopite and lake colours are the result of an These intense chroma
they offer the promise of
colours offer bold effects in
reduced toxicity.
colour cosmetics.
| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
COLOUR COSMETICS
Inorganic pigments are compounds obtained from inorganic metallic compounds
Organic pigments are
and salts, such as chromate
made up of carbon rings and
sulphate and metallic oxides.
chains and differ in particle
They are often used in foundation products to create different shades.
size, brightness and colour. Chemical compounds such as lakes are often used to stabilise organic pigments in lipsticks and
Pearlescent pigments or effect
eyeshadow formulations.
pigments are titanium dioxide and mica based powders that create eye catching effects, from a subtle shimmer to a sparkling diamond effect, in makeup products. Spectraflex is a titanium dioxide coated alumina that diminishes the look of fine lines and imperfections using light
Bulk nail polish is created using a wide pallet of pigment based colouring solutions consisting of organic and inorganic pigments.
diffusing technology. Intenza pigments are A dispersion process
fierce and vivid colours with a luminescent
converts a raw pigment into a ready
pearl effect and excellent light and colour
to use form. This process consists of
stability. These pigments have a high purity
wetting, grinding and stabilisation.
content and are free of additives
Using dispersions alleviates the need
and preservatives.
for grinding, resulting in reduced handling and a more stable and consistent pigment. Different types of dispersions include castor oil and synthetic and natural waxes. A dye is a chemical that shows colour when dissolved. It is easy
Treated pigments are
to disperse and often used in liquid
used to achieve various
soaps. Dyes can be both oil and
desired characteristics, by
water soluble. Hair dyes include
uplifting the functional and
permanent, semi-permanent,
physical appearance of an
temporary and thermo colours
end product. Alumina and silane are examples of surface treated pigments, which deliver an anti-caking effect.
Makeup applications such as lipstick, highlighters,
created using a blend of natural
gel eyeliner and bb creams are
and synthetic pigments to achieve
created using a broad
desired shades.
range of organic, inorganic and effect pigments.
The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
33
REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING
How to compile a Product Information File In accordance with Regulation 6(1), a PIF should be compiled for each cosmetics product manufactured. The PIF must include all of the necessary particulars relating to the identity, quality, safety to human health and the effects claimed for the product. By Anina van der Walt of
T
Lumen Regulatory Solutions he cosmetics industry is well aware of the draft regulations of the South African Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants Act,
1972 (Act no. 54 of 1972), relating to the Labelling, Advertising, and Composition of Cosmetics, R. 1469. The draft regulations were published in August 2016 and again redrafted for industry comment in December 2017.
The process to compile a PIF should not cause trepidation, although it currently does
3. The Product Composition (and Manufacturing Method) section should include qualitative and quantitative formulation information. This includes the trade name, INCI name, function and percentage of the ingredients used. This is also a relevant section to indicate the ingredients included in the product comply with legislative requirements
Regulation 6(1) states ‘…The Responsible
PIF structure explained
where restrictions or permitted use
Person, prior to placing a cosmetic
For illustrative purposes, a PIF should
apply. The manufacturing method of the
product on the South African market and
contain the following sections and data.
product and process description should
for control purposes, must keep a Product
1. It is advised the section on
Information File (PIF) for each cosmetic…’. Since local cosmetics legislative
4. For packaging (specifications)
contain all the relevant basic
and labelling it is important to note
promulgation did not occur and
company information, such as a
enforcement rules are not yet
contact person, physical address and
recognised, product owners are either
also be noted.
administrative information should
contact details, including:
the following: • packaging type identification (pump, spray, tube or jar etc.)
cautiously starting to collect information,
• product owner
• pack size specification
or they’re unsure of where to start.
• responsible person (RP)
• type of packaging, primary packaging
The latter is a ‘buried head in the
• manufacturer and the manufacturer
sand approach’ in the hope a PIF will
statement of relevant GMP compliance
neither be required nor requested by a
• market distributor (where applicable)
regulatory authority.
• importer (where applicable). 2. Even though some of the product
material specification and composition, including technical substances • identification of technically unavoidable impurities • information about the packaging
Don't fear the PIF
information included in the Product
The process to compile a PIF should not
General Information section may
• for primary packaging, it is beneficial
cause trepidation, although it currently
seem obvious to the brand owner,
to provide a ‘Food or Pharma Grade’
does. A review of the legislative aspects
the PIF should also be structurally
followed in various other countries reveals
set out to assist with either a product
or applicable.
the process to compile a PIF should be
evaluation or the safety assessment,
5. The physico-chemical and
clearly structured and planned.
as required. The following information
microbiological specifications of
may be included:
raw materials are important. The
The idea is not to reproduce another technical document using all and
• target population (healthy women,
sometimes irrelevant information. PIF
men, adults, children, shaving adults,
objectives are to identify the cosmetics
middle aged woman etc.)
product, determine the quality, establish
• intended use and general purpose
material (SDS, TDS and COA)
statement where available
information in the raw material or ingredient specification section should typically include: • identification of nano materials
safety to human health and the effects
(body lotion, face cream, or
where applicable
claimed for it to create a dossier
shampoo etc.)
• physico-chemical
applicable to a specific product and formulation type. The PIF should contain data and information in a format that is practical to maintain throughout the product lifecycle (and after). It should be compiled in such a way that it’s easily reviewed by an evaluator.
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
• main action (e.g. cleansing, antiwrinkle, or depilating) • formulation type (an emulsion, cream, butter or oil etc.) • the type of exposure (Leave-on or rinse-off) • foreseeable application area (body, face, or hands etc.).
ingredient specifications • supplier information including the Safety Data Sheet (SDS), Certificate of Analysis (COA) and IFRA certificate (where applicable) • microbiological specification of the raw materials supplied by the manufacturer of the raws
REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING
• carcinogenic, mutagenic and Reprotoxic (CMR) information
• impurities and trace information about the packaging material
• identification of raw material impurities.
• intended use of the product
6. Finished product specifications are dependent
• exposure to the cosmetics product
on product type and may include colour, odour,
• exposure to the substances
appearance, pH, water content, viscosity and density/SG
• toxicological profile of the substances
etc. The following information should be included in
• undesirable and serious undesirable effects
this section: 6.1 Finished product stability based on stability testing
• other information such as label claims, warnings and instructions for use
procedures representative of the transport and storage
• assessment conclusion
conditions to which final products will be subjected after
• the assessor’s credentials and approval.
manufacturing, during distribution and storage and
10.Undesirable effects on human health as per Regulation 4 (4)
when purchased and used by the consumer. Stability test
Safety Cosmetic Product Safety Report, the Undesirable Effects
protocol design depends on product type, ingredient/
(UE) and Serious Undesirable Effects (SUE) should be recorded in
final product properties and packaging material. Product
the section on post marketing surveillance. Standard Operating
stability must include the physico-chemical parameter
Procedures are recommended for a Complaint Management
assessments (accelerated, normal conditions and cyclic
System and data collection, data analysis and reporting.
temperature stress tests), packaging compatibility and
When sections one to 10 are set out and maintained, a well-
microbial assessments. Stability assessments should
planned R&D project will ensure the appropriate and relevant
include calculations and/or an estimation of period after
product information required to complete the PIF will be obtained.
opening (PAO) or date of minimum durability (DOMD)
Thorough coordination and proper planning are necessary to
and expiry date. Experimental and/or theoretical values
ensure the time and funding required from initial concept to
are applicable. It is also suggested the stability test report
finished product are neither increased nor delayed. •
should conclude to indicate optimal storage conditions. 6.2 Packaging compatibility applies to the primary packaging. If no ‘food grade statement’ is available, a packaging compatibility test should be performed as well
Lumen Regulatory Solutions – anina@lumen.co.za
as a migration test on the finished product in its primary packaging, which will be used by the consumer. Possible interactions between the product and packaging material need to be verified. A package leak test and a visual inspection should be performed to determine possible packaging damage or product contamination. 6.3 Test results and the methods used for microbial quality assessments should be included. Microbial testing using the relevant approved ISO or SANS standard methods should include as a minimum and where applicable: • a preservative efficacy test to ensure system efficacy • total microbial count to determine possible contamination • assessment and identification of moulds and yeast or bacterial organisms – various guidance documents are available for this. 7. Data and information on any animal testing performed either on the final product or the ingredients used in the formulation. 8. The evaluation and testing of a cosmetic formulation's intended purpose is to validate cosmetic label claims. This information should serve as substantiation of claims and the efficacy testing should be performed on the finished product. Include reports of clinical testing and if adverse effects were reported during clinical testing. 9. According to draft legislation, Regulation 4, the Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment and Report (CPSR) must be performed by appropriately trained person, such as a cosmetics product safety assessor. As a minimum, the CPSR should contain the following: • the qualitative and quantitative composition of the physical and chemical characteristics as well as the stability of the product • microbiological quality
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
35
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
‘Our planet is not recyclable, but the right packaging is’ The third sustainability report released by Alpla provides detailed insights into the company’s development strategy. The report describes the progress of sustainable development from 2016 to 2018, used as a basis for formulating its ambitious objectives for 2019 to 2022. targets can only be achieved with efforts by all regions.’ Alpla has 178 plants in 46 countries. Of these plants, 72 are in house, meaning they are directly part of a customer’s operations.
manufacture 100 percent
This approach reduces
recyclable products by 2025
transport routes and
and will invest €50 million in
carbon emissions. Many implemented their own sustainability projects. The company’s sustainability
A
examples of such projects in
packaging solutions,
India, Brazil and Portugal.
Alpla has had a positive
past three years. Energy consumption
Ambitious objectives
in relation to production volumes has
As an innovation
been reduced by 6.6 percent and
leader, Alpla can
consumption of fresh water regarding
also point to several
material usage, has been cut by
flagship initiatives in
40 percent. The company even
the area of product
sustainability record for the
Chr is toph Hof fman n
of processed post consumer recycled materials should rise to this time.
DID YOU KNOW?
Recycling completes the circuit that starts with
Alpla believes in recycling. In October 2018, the company signed the New Plastics Economy’s Global Commitment and pledged to achieve ambitious targets. The global commitment is an initiative led by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation together with the United Nations Environment Programme.
exceeded its target for using
development: from bottles
recycled materials.
made entirely of recyclate
‘Demand has risen
and the home compostable coffee
sharply in the reporting
capsule to the Simple One – this is a
period. Alpla has more
HDPE bottle that is up to 60 percent
than 25 years’ experience
lighter than standard bottles.
in recycling, both in the
activities. The volume
25 percent of total material usage by
report outlines successful global specialist in
the expansion of recycling
Linda Mauksch
plants have planned and
As of 2022, the company wants to
manufacture of recyclates
bring at least three innovations to
and processing. That’s
the market each year. It also aims to
why we’re able to offer
reduce its carbon footprint absolutely
our customers functioning solutions
by 10 percent, even with its projected
on both sides,’ emphasises Christoph
annual growth of three percent.
Hoffmann, director of corporate strategy,
‘design for recycling’. This is the key to sustainable packaging solutions, according to Alpla’s executive board.
First online report The full version of
Alpla’s sustainability report is available online for the first time, with printed abridged versions in German, English and Spanish. The report has been prepared in accordance with sustainability reporting standards and the Global Reporting Initiative. Alpla’s stakeholders – the owner family along with selected employees, customers and suppliers – chose the 10 subject areas covered in the report. These areas range from innovation
Circular economy a success factor
leadership and safety in the workplace
footprint, albeit not as much as planned.
In 2018, another partnership in Wolfen,
Linda Mauksch, sustainability officer at Alpla
Germany joined the three PET recycling
The company prepared the report with
since 2012, gives an explanation for why
plants in Mexico, Austria and Poland.
the carbon footprint objective could not be
The four sites deliver 70 000t of food
achieved: ‘We experienced more growth
grade PET recyclate per year.
sustainability and circular economy. The company also reduced its carbon
than expected in countries with carbon intensive electricity production. Global
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
With its new plastics economy global commitment, Alpla is promising to
to the reduction of carbon emissions. the help of c7-consult, a consultancy firm specialising in sustainability.•
Alpla – www.alpla.com/en
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
New mark identifies safe, responsible & recyclable PVC Just launched by SAVA, vinyl-dot assures consumers which PVC products ate sustainable, safe and responsible.
V
inyl-dot guarantees the PVC products carrying a quality mark adhere to the Southern African Vinyls Association
(SAVA’s) Product Stewardship Commitment (PSC). The PSC ensures the products are lead free, recyclable and only use additives approved for high human contact applications. ‘Vinyl is an incredibly versatile product and is used in a wide variety of industries and products, ranging from school shoes, gum boots, raincoats and umbrellas to healthcare products that save lives including IV bags, blood bags, tubing, oxygen masks, bed covers, flooring,
DID YOU KNOW?
Vinyl-dot is an important differentiator between SAVA members and non-members or so-called ‘free riders’. Because SAVA is a Producer Responsibility Organisation, its members automatically subscribe to the Industry Waste Management Plan.
blister packs and inflatable splints. Yet PVC is frequently criticised for
‘Although the vinyl-dot is awarded free of charge, it has
have already been granted the rights to display the logo on their products,
posing potential health risks and
to be renewed annually. It is only issued
websites and other marketing material.
being a difficult to recycle plastic,’
once the SAVA executive has confirmed
These include raw material suppliers,
says Adri Spangenberg, SAVA’s chief
the member specifies sustainable
converters and importers of vinyl
executive officer.
manufacturing, uses additives
products sold on the local market.
responsibly and sustainably, subscribes
‘We hope this mark will be used as a
A localised solution
to a closed loop management system
highly visual and instantly recognisable
To counter these attacks, SAVA’s vinyl-
and is committed to recycling and
sign of excellence, which proves vinyl
dot has been developed specifically for
sustainability awareness in line with our
products can be safe, responsible
the South African market. This quality
PSC,’ explains Spangenberg.
and sustainable. We encourage the
guarantee is awarded exclusively to
public to buy PVC wisely. Buy vinyl,’
members who are able to prove their
A sign of excellence
products meet international safety and
Since launching the vinyl-dot at its AGM
quality standards.
in April, more than 21 SAVA members
she concludes. For more information about SAVA and the vinyl-dot, visit www.savinyls.co.za. •
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
37
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
Sustainable sheet masks With consumers looking for more transparency from the beauty industry and ethical products, Lessonia has improved its sheet masks and packaging to answer to these needs. The result is a new sheet mask with a low environmental footprint.
an alternative, the private label sheet mask manufacturer offers a sachet without aluminium foil. This halves the carbon footprint of the materials needed to manufacture sachets. Lessonia saves 50t of CO 2 equivalent when producing 10 million masks. It also guarantees efficiency to protect product while reducing environmental impact.
Natural materials for sheet masks Lessonia has taken its sustainable innovation to the next level removing the polypropylene support
A
used to facilitate the lthough sheet masks are
unfolding of sheet
an exceptionally popular
masks. This saves 15t
pampering treat, they are
of polypropylene for
probably one of the least
every 10 million
sustainable elements a beauty routine. Perceptive of their environmental
masks produced. The company also
impact, Lessonia has harnessed its
proposes specific
technical expertise to reduce the
natural materials,
ecological footprint of sheet masks.
such as a bio non-woven to reduce the
Lessonia saves 50t of CO2 equivalent when producing 10 million masks
environmental impact of sheet masks. In line with this, Lessonia’s Happy Mask range is certified OEKO-TEX level 1. The natural serum portfolio for its Happy Mask’s includes bio cosmos organic lotions, which are 100 percent natural and either aqueous or creamy in texture. This is a good way for the
The company has re-engineered
company to propose sustainable and
its packaging and removed the
natural solutions for the different steps
polypropylene support.
of sheet mask development. •
In the sheet masks category, brands
footprint owing to how it’s produced. As
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
IN JUST THREE easy steps, you could launch a line of sheet masks to complement your skin care brand. Lessonia can customise sheet masks according to the customer’s specifications and project requirements. The company’s Happy Mask factory is located at its head office in Brittany, France. The two storey factory is 16 000m2 in size. The second floor is dedicated entirely to the impregnation of masks. Lessonia handles all serum development and manufacturing in house, in its certified ISO 22716 factory. It is also equipped to cut masks before serum impregnation, which takes place in its cleanroom. After impregnation, the masks are filled into sachets or blister packaging using automated machinery and packed into box or displays for shipping. Go to this website, to see Lessonia’s Happy Mask factory in action:
usually use aluminium foil sachet packaging, which has a high ecological
THE HAPPY MASK FACTORY
Lessonia – www.lessonia.com
https://bit.ly/2Of0chi.
PHARMA FOCUS//Biosimilars
Project to automate production of gene therapeutics Optima Pharma has established a partnership with Charité and the Berlin Institute of Health. The objective is to develop an automatic manufacturing process for cell and gene therapeutics.
I
n a pilot project, Optima Pharma and
Yescarta in the European Union
Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin – are
is evidence.
developing a production platform for the
cell and gene therapeutics. A new type of
Experts collaborate to automate
medication, gene therapy paves the way for
The increasing demand for personalised
personalised medicine and is considered
cell and gene therapeutics requires the
promising in the treatment of hereditary and
automation of the manufacturing process.
metabolic diseases, neurodegenerative
The individual manufacturing process is too
disorders and cancer.
time consuming, costly and the quality of
automatic manufacturing and filling of
Cell and gene therapeutics depend on
Although the processing of cells is handled manually at Charité, it will soon be automated with the Optima Pharma production machinery
the cell and gene therapeutics suffers. This is
the patient’s cells. Based on their unique
set to change with process knowledge from
and gene therapeutics, to fast track
nature, these drugs are produced manually,
Charité, technical expertise from Optima
the application procedure and ensure
Pharma and BIH’s financing.
its successful outcome. After internal
The individual manufacturing process is too time consuming, costly and the quality of the cell and gene therapeutics suffers which is very expensive. In an
Optima Pharma is working with Charité
development and construction activities
to develop a production platform based
at Charité, a machine will be installed
on isolator technology. This will allow
and validated, and the corresponding
the manufacturing of biosimilars in an
production permit requested.
automated process, in line with pharma GMP. The production platform offers the
Improved processes safety
prospect of mapping the processes required
According to Optima Pharma, this is the
to manufacture different cell and gene
best set-up to develop an automatic,
therapy products.
modular and closed manufacturing
attempt to discover automated
‘While Charité has extensive
platform based on isolator technology.
and more cost-effective
knowledge in producing therapeutic
Process safety is increased and the risk of
production processes for
medicines, Optima Pharma contributes
loss of the patient’s individual product is
biosimilars, the Berlin Institute
expertise in process technology and
significantly minimised. These outcomes
of Health (BIH) has funded this
automation,’ comments Dr
are guaranteed by the automatic
innovative project.
Andrea Traube, director
decontamination of all work areas. All
of market development
process steps are documented during
pharma at Optima Pharma.
the entire manufacturing process.
‘A new era is dawning in the
Profes sor Dr Lar s Bu llinger
treatment of dread diseases and gene defects,’ says Professor Dr
In addition to the funding from
Lars Bullinger, director of the Medical Clinic
BIH, the project is supported by
at the campus Virchow-Clinic of Charité. Dr
Berlin Health Innovations – a joint
Lars specialises in haematology, oncology
technology transfer of BIH
and tumour immunology. He is convinced
and Charité.
cell and gene therapy will provide important contributions for the treatment of incurable diseases. The registration of new gene therapy medications Kymriah and
Human interference is also limited to a minimum to protect the product and Dr Andrea Tra ube
The objective of this project is to speed up the process of clinical projects in cell
minimise the risk to the patient. Besides Charité, this machine solution would be relevant to large clinics, research institutes, pharma contract manufacturers, laboratories, start-ups and large multinationals. ‘There is tremendous demand for automated production platforms for cell and gene therapeutics,’ Dr Traube concludes. •
A first rendering shows how the Optima production machine for cell and gene therapeutics might look
Optima Pharma – www.optima-packaging.com/en
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
39
PHARMA FOCUS//Biosimilars
Werum’s new system updates and mobile interface PAS-X innovations facilitate easier, more secure and efficient production processes in pharma and biotech factories. Werum has just introduced new features for its PAS-X MES system, including biometric authentication, detailed scheduling and mobile execution.
The improved usability allows for increased performance, stable operation and safety Easier mobile operation PAS-X is increasingly being used on mobile terminals on the factory floor. For this reason, Werum has optimised the use of its MES software on hand-held scanners and tablets. For instance, this allows tablet users to benefit from an
ser based Weru m’s PAS-X MES new brow desig ned for ly ifical spec is face inter user inals operation on hand -held term
W
erum IT Solutions has added various innovations to its leading PAS-X manufacturing execution
improved touch operation. PAS-X now has a new browser based user interface specifically designed for
A high quality pharma solution
operation on hand-held terminals, which supports current hardware and software platforms. In industrial environments, the improved usability
Werum IT Solutions is a leading global
system (MES) for the pharma and biotech
supplier of MES and manufacturing
industries, providing advanced user
IT solutions for the pharma and
options and better performance. The
biopharmaceutical industries. Its
innovations include biometric alternatives
PAS-X software product is utilised by the
to the usual authentication process,
majority of the world’s top 30 pharma
an integrated solution for detailed
and biotech companies as well as by
scheduling and optimised operation on
many mid-sized manufacturers. The
mobile terminals.
company has more than 1 000 PAS-X
allows for increased performance, stable operation and safety. ‘We are continually enhancing PAS-X. On the one hand, we aim to address new production processes, regulations and customer requirements in an optimal way. On the other, it is our goal to stimulate innovation and quickly pave the way for the pharma industry’s digital factory
MES installations around the globe.
of the future,’ says Robert Welter, senior
Biometric authentication
head of PAS-X product management,
The current process requires entering a username and password, pin code or ID, which is time-consuming. With K.Me-
Werum IT Solutions.
New scheduling solution
PAS-X is strictly developed
By integrating a detailed
according to legal requirements
In, Werum now offers a fresh biometric
scheduling solution based on
such as FDA 21 CFR Part 211
authentication product to simplify login
sedApta’s Factory Scheduler,
and Part 11, EU GMP and GAMP
and signing in processes. In the future,
Werum has further enhanced the
5 guidelines. By implementing
various user-specific biometric parameters
functionality of the system.
Werum’s MES software product
such as fingerprint, iris, face recognition or a combination of those will be used. PAS-X logs off the user automatically
Through PAS-X, this scheduling solution can directly access all
Robert Welter
necessary data, such as master
in manufacturing processes, pharma companies benefit from high quality and significant cost
when they leave the application,
data, MBRs or order data for the
savings. In most cases, Werum believes
which is an important aspect to ensure
shop floor.
the return on investment is realised within
data integrity. Werum’s new biometric
PAS-X provides the data in real time
authentication product also allows
and with a higher quality than any other
quicker authentication for users on the
ERP on the market. As a result, there is no
shop floor so they can concentrate on
more need for an interface between the
their main tasks at hand.
scheduling solution and the ERP.
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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
two or three years. •
Werum IT Solutions – www.werum.com/en
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Half truths demystified on silicones, parabens and mineral oil At the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) Afternoon Lecture on 9 May, Jacques Strydom of ChemSystems set the record straight on misinformation by bloggers, on silicones, parabens and mineral oil. The lecture was hosted at Evonik South Africa, based in Midrand, Gauteng.
T
he rise of the internet and social media has made it possible for consumers to have a wealth of information and opinion
available at their fingertips. This, like most technological advancements, has its pros and cons. We can communicate ideas faster and on a much larger scale, but this also means misinformation and fearmongering can spread at a rate.
Coschem vice presid ent, Kim MacCall um (Vantag e Speciality Ing red ients); Coschem presid ent, Rene Spad a (Evon ik South Afr ica) and Ja cq ues Str ydom (C he mS ystem s)
This allows for cyber groupthink, where like-minded individuals reiterate misinformation, changing consumer perception and forcing manufacturers and brand owners to redesign accordingly, often ignoring scientific fact.
Chemicals under siege
environments, especially in South Africa
systemically toxic. Yet studies have
and the rest of sub-Saharan Africa.
confirmed refined pharma grades of
Silicones, mineral oil and parabens
mineral oil used in personal care do
in the personal care industry are
The science of silicones
not pose a risk to human health, as the
three examples of ingredients that
In the personal care industry, silicones
molecules cannot penetrate far enough
have perhaps fallen victim to this
are among the most misunderstood
into the skin to become systemically
phenomenon. With the natural and
ingredients, most likely due to their
available. It has also been concluded
organic trend, anything synthetically
affiliation with other types of silicones
that mineral oil is not comedogenic to
produced, petro-chemically related or
used in industrial applications, for
most skin types.
really any ingredient that sounds like a
instance silicone sealants.
chemical, is treated with irrational fear and avoided at all cost.
Studies have confirmed refined pharma grades of mineral oil used in personal care do not pose a risk to human health
Bloggers refer to these ingredients as
Parabens on the other hand only became a topic of concern after a
‘rubbery’ and ‘plasticky’, leading their
single questionable study connected
audiences to believe silicones cover
these ingredients to breast cancer. The
the skin in an occlusive, comedogenic,
study was flawed and heavily securitised
allergenic layer, which promotes
by the scientific community until finally
bacterial growth and irritation.
20 parabens were cleared for use in
In reality, silicones are one of the most researched chemistries, with over 1 000 studies carried out by producers
personal care products at recommended dosages by the CIR panel of experts. After more than 100 years of safe use,
to assess the safety of silicones for their
parabens are still some of the safest
workers, consumers, the environment
and most effective preservatives,
and manufacturing processes. All of
but the damage has been done
attention to what they buy and what
the abovementioned claims by beauty
and it will be hard to convince the
goes into their personal care products,
bloggers have been proven false in these
consumer otherwise. •
but at the same time it poses the danger
studies, with only a handful of silicones
for consumer opinion to prevail over
still under scientific scrutiny.
It’s great to see consumers are paying
scientific fact. A safe preservation system, such as a blend of parabens, gets
Mineral oil and parabens
replaced by a fragile cocktail of natural
Because of its petrochemical origin,
ingredients that isn’t robust enough for
mineral oil is frowned upon and
most formulations and manufacturing
considered comedogenic and
Coschem regularly hosts networking, social and educational events. Send an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za for more information.
P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |
41
Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN
Mini Crossword
Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
Daleen Filbey Sales executive
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
+27 (0)83 409 3119
06 Agencies SA........................................22.........www.o6southafrica.com Bragan Chemicals...................................23.........www.braganchemicals.co.za CJP Chemicals........................................ 12.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Clomark...................................................20.........www.clomark.com CLR Chemisches Laboratorium .............. IFC.........www.clr-berlin.com Courage + Khazaka electronic ................35.........www.courage-khazaka.de Crest Chemicals ..................................... 18.........www.crestchem.co.za CTFA..........................................................9.........www.ctfa.co.za Extrupet.....................................................5.........www.hur.com IMCD SA .................................................29.........www.koelcolours.com ISW Shrink...............................................38.........www.iswshrink.co.za
42
| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review
ACROSS 1. Omen 5. Fall apart 6. Rising air current 7. Delete DOWN 1. Image 2. Gather livestock together 3. Make plain and comprehensible 4. Supporting tower
Maccallum .............................................. 15.........www.maccallum.co.za Merck......................................................27.........www.merck.co.za Millchem .................................................24.........www.millchem.co.za Omron Electronics ....................................8.........www.industrial.omron.co.za Quantum Colours SA ...............................31.........www.quantumcolours.com Savannah Fine Chemicals................OFC, 13.........www.savannah.co.za Sensetek ................................................. 14.........www.sensetek.co.za South African Vinyls Association..............37.........www.savinyls.co.za The Care Co....................................... 21, 33.........www.careco.co.za Vantage Speciality Chemicals ................. 19.........www.vantagegrp.com Wacker Chemicals...................................25.........www.wacker.com/personalcare
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the
Tel: 010 595 9690
cosmetics and toiletries industries.
Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY
DALGEN
M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of
Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,
analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,
plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.
Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
FORMPAK
BRB SILICONES
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
The largest independent producer in the world of
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
www.brb-international.com
H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations. If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.
QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications. Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our
113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa
trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com
www.quantumcolours.com
