Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review August 2019

August 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 8

www.pharmacos.co.za

HAIR CARE

Product tailoring, textured hair & scalp care

Innovative ingredients inspired by the diversity of hair types

COLOUR COSMETICS Trends shaping makeup palettes

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES Targets, achievements & new commitments

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

August 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 8

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

A showcase of the 2019 entries

8 NEWS

CanbiGold geared to transform the Cannabis industry

Orkila strengthens its partnership with Roquette

Dabur’s ORS brand celebrates Mandela Day

11 INDUSTRY TALK

Ensure your brand resonates with women

12 EVENTS

Clear your diary for the HPCI expo in September

16 HAIR CARE

Innovative ingredients from Savannah Fine Chemicals

Green beauty blends based on science

Beautiful hair starts at the scalp

How to prevent and treat dandruff

Silikes – a substitute for silicones

Croda’s new ISO data shows a commitment to sustainability

12

Creating a gateway to the growing African market

34 REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

How to compile a PIF

36 SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES

Alpla’s new objectives

The vinyl-dot quality mark from SAVA

Sheet masks with a reduced environmental footprint

39 PHARMA FOCUS: BIOSIMILARS

Automated gene therapeutics production project underway

Werum announces system updates to PAS-X MES

26 COLOUR COSMETICS

Merck’s 2019 spring/summer colour forecast

IMCD South Africa partners with Koel Colours

Quantum Colours celebrates its 16th anniversary

The evolution of colour with The Care Co.

28

Pigments and dyes to make an impact

39

Project to automate production of gene therapeutics 41 ASSOCIATION NEWS

Exciting highlights from Coschem lecture

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

3

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Anina van der Walt, Shani Vermeulen, Yaw Dwomoh

Clear your diary

O

pportunities to connect and

ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za

On page 26, we look at the beauty of

network face to face with

colour cosmetics. Interesting reads in this

brand owners, manufacturers

section include Merck’s newest colour

and industry professionals

forecast and how it’s shaping local makeup

are rare in today’s digital age. This is set to

palettes, IMCD’s new distribution partnership

change in September, when HPCI brings its

with Koel Colours and The Care Co.’s take

globally renowned exhibition concept to

on the evolution of colour. We also wish

South Africa.

Quantum Colours a sweet 16th anniversary.

The HPCI South Africa expo takes place

Alpla, Lessonia and SAVA are on our

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Daleen Filbey +27 (0)83 409 3119 daleen.filbey@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

in conjunction with Coschem’s annual

sustainability radar this month. Turn to

scientific conference. More than 20 exhibitors

page 36 now to read about how these

have confirmed their participation in the

organisations are pushing boundaries in

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

expo, which will showcase ingredients and

sustainable packaging and practices.

CIRCULATION

associated solutions for home and personal

We’re looking forward to catching up

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

care applications. If you need more reasons

with our readers and advertisers at the HPCI

to head to Gallagher Convention Centre on

South Africa expo and Coschem scientific

4 and 5 September, take a look at our

conference. Keep an eye on our social

preview on the conference and HPCI

media pages and the Pharmacos website

exhibition in this edition of P C Review.

for regular updates in the lead up to these

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za

Turn to page 12 now to read about the

events. Visit www.pharmacos.co.za, like the

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

highlights of the conference programme,

@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview Facebook

Art Director: David Kyslinger

entertainment planned for the gala dinner

page and follow @SApharmacos on twitter

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

and get a sneak peek at what some

and @pharmacosreview on Instagram.

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

exhibitors will be showcasing.

The South African hair care market is

Enjoy the read!

forecast to reach USD496.64 million in value

PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo

by 2024, registering a CAGR of 1.36 percent

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

between 2019 and 2024. With a population

MANAGEMENT TEAM

of around 56 million and a shifting

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

demographic profile, the SA hair care market

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

presents brand owners and manufacturers

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

with vast potential for growth. This is evident

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

in our bumper hair care section on page 16.

HEAD OF HR: Camillah West

It features an array of products, solutions and

CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

technologies for scalp care, healthy hair and

HEAD OFFICE

the growing textured hair care market.

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Introducing the 2019 entrants Local and international brands are going head to head in the 2019 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition. Entries closed at the end of June. We received 28 submissions from brand owners of various ranges and individual products, which were assessed on 25 July by our esteemed panel of judges.

T

he New Product Competition is now

brands, which are available on the South African

in its 12 th year. Since its inception,

market, an opportunity to showcase their unique,

P C Review and Symrise – the sponsor of

new products.

the competition – have been encouraging

Entries can also be products that have either

innovation in the cosmetics industry. The aim of

been reformulated or repackaged to improve the

the competition is to give local and international

original offering.

Save the date!

The P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition awards will take place on 10 October, in Sandton, Johannesburg.

We hope to see all the entrants there!

BRANDS COMPETING FOR THE TITLE

Working with renowned local cosmetic scientists, medical doctors, women with darker skin tones and marketing and advertising experts, Dr Mothoa-Frendo developed her Uso skin care range. She has entered the Uso by African Dermal Science range and the Uso 05 Active Day Cream with SPF30 in the competition.

Specialist South African scars and stretch marks brand, Bio-Oil has entered its first innovation in 30 years – Bio-Oil Dry Skin Gel. Formulated without water, the oil based gel works harder and goes further than water based creams and lotions. Because substantially less product is needed to cover the same body area, Bio-Oil Dry Skin Gel is not just 100 percent effective, it’s also good value.

Collagen Tri Phase, three in one serum by Hey Gorgeous is everyone’s secret to a glowing complexion. This unique serum includes a blend of skin transforming acids, nourishing botanical extracts and clinically proven actives to firm, smooth, hydrate and brighten the skin.

Environ, a globally recognised skin care brand based on science, care and beauty, has entered the Focus Care Radiance+ Range for uneven skin tone and the anti-ageing serum with multifunctional benefits – Focus Care Youth+ Avance Elixir.

365 Skin Workout by Sorbet is the newest skin care offering from the salon franchise brand.

Hailing from the skin galleries of Barcelona, 365 Skin Workout is a premiere, fitness first skin care brand inspired by global pharmacosmeceutical trends. The products are multifunctional and promise repaired skin in just eight weeks.

6

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

GR8 Skincare was founded by Dr Janine Ellenberger, a South African doctor who now lives in the USA. The products are biodegradable and FDA approved. GR8 Skincare has entered The Oil – an alternative cleansing oil – and Screen – a sunscreen formulated with physical UV filters – into the competition.

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

SoyLites has re launched its innovative and handy moisturising product, the aroma butter bar. This solid, dry lotion bar made with botanical oils is available in five variants. The range includes a Calm Life Aroma Butter Bar, Sweet Florals Aroma Butter Bar, Good Morning Aroma Butter Bar with real coffee beans, Spice Up Your Life Aroma Butter Bar and the Hemp Re-leaf Aroma Butter Bar.

The Placecol Excellence range has been scientifically developed following an in-depth investigation into the different cellular functions associated with unique skin concerns. The range includes Gravity Lift, Brighten, Pure and Scar solutions. All four products contain Sunflower Oil to calm reactive skin and control signs of premature ageing.

Cold Pressed Skin, a new range from The Skin Co, is seen as a staple source of all things good and green. Inspired by raw juicing, the range includes cleanser, serum, moisturiser, a body oil and face mist products formulated with superfood extracts, anti-oxidants and natural ingredients.

Natralogic’s all maternity skin care range is specially formulated for use during pregnancy. According to Lauren Lamont, owner and founder of the brand, the products are free of toxins and ingredients that could be considered harmful.

Natralogic products contain safe and high quality certified organic and natural ingredients.

An innovative, globally recognised brand dedicated to the science of beautiful skin, Nimue has submitted a variety of entries. These include the Nimue Sun-C Environmental Shield SPF 50, the new and improved Fader Range formulated with patented Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Nimue’s range of Super Fluids, the new Thermal Detox Peel, and its safe Smart Resurfacer Treatment that promises visible results without the downtime.

Rain Africa creates luxury handmade bath and body products using natural ingredients with African botanical actives. The South African natural products brand has diversified into the premium skin care and male grooming categories with the Rain Skincare and Rain’s G-Range.

Smelling great has never been this easy! Playgirl and Playboy announced the addition of body lotions earlier this year to its two popular deodorant ranges.

The Playgirl body lotions are available in Temptation, Love Is and Flirtatious.

The Playboy body lotion fragrance variants include Amazon, Atlantis and London Knights.

The latest addition to the Lulu & Marula skin care collection is its Balancing Hydra Serum. This collagen boosting concentrate is formulated with powerful antioxidants and marine actives. All these ingredients work together to improve elasticity and firm the skin, leaving it feeling velvety soft.

Optiphi, the winner of the 2018 P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition, is defending its title this year with three entries. The South African professional skin care brand has entered the Delta Medical Skincare Range, and two individual entries: Body Curve Sculpting Repair and Body Curve Calm Balm.

In a move set to invigorate the personal care market, well-known deodorant brand, Shower to Shower has introduced a range of body washes. The trio includes the Fresh Powder, Fresh Escape and Fresh Happiness variants. This range and the new Floral Fresh Powder in spray deodorant and roll-on antiperspirant formats have been entered into the competition.

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

7

NEWS

Cannabis Research Institute launches in SA THE CANNABIS RESEARCH Institute (CRI) is Africa’s foremost centre of excellence in the field of cannabis and cannabinoid therapy management and research. It incorporates the use of multidisciplinary approaches to advance cannabis medicinal, veterinary and complementary drug development.

Through clinical research and data analytical trials, the CRI develops cuttingedge methodology and utilises state of the art equipment and technology.

The institute is partnered with South African and international research organisations. It also works with universities, high tech innovative companies and industry aligned corporations to provide research based proven approaches to Cannabis and cannabinoid therapy management.

It also plans to partner with government and local and international regulatory bodies to

develop and help implement policies pertaining to Good Agricultural and Cultivation Practice, Good Manufacturing Practice, Good Laboratory Practice and Good Clinical Practice.

It has selected the Afriplex Cannabis Laboratory as its dedicated testing facility for cultivation, extraction and final packaged product testing.

Lauren McMillan, CRI general manager, comments: ‘With an extensive basket of services focusing on developing medicinal Cannabis capability in South Africa, we are taking the lead in keeping the country at the forefront of innovation.

Our partnership with leading international players allows acceleration of local R&D programmes, providing cannabis derived products for the treatment for a broad spectrum of acute and chronic conditions experienced at all stages of life.’

Looking Good LCN and ORS celebrate Mandela Day DABUR’S HAIR CARE brand, ORS and Looking Good LCN donated makeup and hair care products to the survivors of domestic violence at the Bethany Home, in celebration of Mandela Day 2019.

This marks the first time the brands have collaborated to celebrate their 67 minutes. The brands visited the women’s shelter to present the gifts and discover how the shelter makes a difference in the lives of those affected by abuse.

Because the issue of domestic violence is highly topical yet neglected and often ignored, the beauty brands chose to support this home.

The shelter works hard to educate the victims and provide resources to families affected by abusive relationships. It also provides Mrs World 2016 emotional support, housing, Candice Abrahams

safety planning and local resources, such as legal advice and counselling.

Chama Mulolo, a representative from Looking Good LCN, commented: ‘Women are the cornerstone of our society and their wellbeing is of paramount importance to everyone.

The abuse of women is unacceptable; women need to bind together and build each other up by starting movements that can be amplified and sustainable.’

Dabur ORS brand manager, Cathrine Williams, added: ‘Victim shaming cannot solve the current issue we are facing with domestic abuse and violence. Before we blame the victim, let us challenge the perpetrator to change their ways. When you encounter abuse, one needs to condemn it because silence is consent and agreement. Once we start doing this, we will start developing sustainable way of dealing with violence.’

The two brands thanked the shelter and pledged their support to further projects.

Roquette and Orkila collaborate for MEA market growth A LEADING MULTINATIONAL distributor, Orkila has become the preferred distributor of Roquette’s complete product offering for pharma, food and industrial applications throughout the MEA region. This step is a natural evolution of the strong and long-standing collaboration between the two companies. It also reconfirms Orkila’s leading position in the region.

The new agreement extends Orkila’s existing distribution partnership with Roquette throughout the Middle East and Africa, and now encompasses Algeria, East Africa, Egypt, Ghana, Ivory Coast, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, Senegal,South Africa, Tunisia, United Arab Emirates and the Gulf states.

Laurent Cousin, Roquette’s head of global distribution management, says: ‘We are committed to providing customers with high quality plant based ingredients as well as an excellent level of service. We have strong growth ambitions to better serve our customers worldwide. We already have a proven and successful partnership with Orkila in the region and are delighted to expand it. Orkila is well-known for its pharma, food and industrial expertise and we are confident its skilled local sales team will offer a best in class service to our customers.’

Christophe Sacy, Orkila’s chief operating officer, adds: ‘Leveraging our presence in the region and our extensive knowledge of Roquette’s highly innovative plant based range of ingredients, our teams are well positioned to achieve Roquette growth ambitions in the Middle East and Africa.

We see this decision by Roquette as a recognition of Orkila’s technical and commercial expertise and are confident it will bring added value to our customers. I will also contribute to supporting the growing market demand for Roquette’s plant based ingredients.’

A representative from Roquette with Christophe Sacy, Orkila’s chief operating officer

and Chama Mulolo

Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series

• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines

Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za 8

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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

11-06-18 09:42

NEWS

A GOLD STANDARD IN CANNABIS PRODUCTS ALTHOUGH IT’S IN its infancy, the Cannabis

production of medicinal Cannabis and related

formulated with its CBD oil. The company also

industry continues to expand. With the rapid

products. The company manufactures 99 percent

intends on working with a water distiller to

progress of the market and widespread support for

pure CBD products in its Cape Town laboratory

produce a CBD infused energy drink and CBD

legalisation, Cannabis businesses are poised for

under pharmaceutical conditions.

infused mineral water. Canbigold also recently

unparalleled growth.

To address a range of health issues for

signed a partnership with a Cape Town based

CanbiGold is an innovative and dynamic

humans and animals alike, CanbiGold uses

manufacturer of women’s sanitary products. Using

player in the industry, established as result of a

different organic oils as carrier mediums in

modern technology, the sanitary products are

critical need for objective and creative solutions

various combinations and concentrations. It has

being infused with CBD oil.

in the vast and expanding international Cannabis

a wide range of finished products and others

market. Together with strategic partners and

in development for men, women and children,

ventures global, to Australia, New Zealand

alliances, CanbiGold offers a global solution to

including creams, sanitary products, chocolate,

and Uruguay.

current and potential growers of both recreational

energy drinks and more.

and medicinal grade Cannabis, through extraction of oils and isolates.

For dogs, cats and other animals, it offers CBD oil to mix with their food and treats. CanbiGold is

It is a private company registered in South Africa and specialises in the cultivation and

also collaborating with a chocolate manufacturer which has launched a range of Belgian chocolates

CVC and Bosch reach sale agreement BOSCH PLANS TO sell its packaging machinery business, based in Waiblingen, Germany, to a newly incorporated entity managed by CVC Capital Partners (CVC). The company and its pharma and food units will remain intact.

The parties signed an agreement on 11 July for the transfer of the entire packaging technology business and its 6 100 associates in 15 countries. Completion of the sale, expected to close at the turn of the year, is subject to the approval of various bodies, including antitrust authorities.

Bosch announced a year ago it was

The company is also in the process of taking its

looking for a buyer for its packaging technology business. The company is giving increasing attention to mobility and connectivity, focusing its existing resources on areas of future importance, such as shaping the transformation process and preparing for further digitalisation.

A Bosch Packaging Technology machine built on the basis of quality and innovation

Offer a softer whitening experience with Spherilex 145 WHITE TEETH AND a bright, perfect smile are among the biggest demands in the oral care category. Evonik’s silica business line has launched a speciality product for oral care applications – Spherilex 145 – as a new solution for toothpaste formulators.

Thanks to the spheroidal shape of the ingredient, high cleaning levels can be achieved while providing lower abrasion to dentin, enamel, fillings and other oral hardware. The mildness of Spherilex 145 is not affected by other whitening formulation ingredients, such as phosphates and chelants.

Kristina Boedtger, Evonik’s global marketing director for oral care silica, comments: ‘Spherilex 145 for everyday toothpastes provides

consumers with whiter smiles. Its Cosmos approval makes it ideally suited for natural products and a great addition to our diverse portfolio. Our Spherilex technology really enhances customers’ formulations.’

All silica oral care products are produced under the highest safety and quality standards. Spherilex 145 meets USP-NF dental type silica and EP silica, dental type monographs. It is listed as a ‘derived mineral ingredient’ in the Annex D of ISO 16128-1 with the INCI name Hydrated Silica. All oral care grades of spherilex conform to Cosmos as a non-organic raw material and are certified Pareve, Kosher, Kosher for Passover, and Halal.

COSMETICS INDUSTRY SUMMIT - 16 & 17 OCTOBER 2019 “Breaking Barriers in Africa” IDC, 19 Fredman Drive, Sandown, Sandton • • • • • •

Bringing together leaders from business and government Stimulating ‘harmonisation’ across the African continent Easing trade within the African continent Local & International presenters Regulatory framework in various African countries Global best practice in the cosmetic and personal care industry

www.ctfa.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

9

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ood f

SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

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September Coschem Scientific Conference & HPCI Expo

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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

4 to 6 www.

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Paris, France

November sustainablecosmeticssummit.com

INDUSTRY TALK

vs Does your brand connect with today’s women?

More than a mother, wife and home cleaning enthusiast – Yaw Dwomoh, MD of Idea Hive, explores how brand storytelling is missing the mark.

A

washing powder advert

Infertility alone affects more than

single mom’s helper or mother. Brands

caught my attention for its

48 million couples in the world. In

need to speak to all these consumers.

depiction of a stereotypical

South Africa, 20 percent of couples

African woman in a rural

are unable to have children, enough so that some are calling for it to be

area, bent over a skottel washing clothes. Her disproportionate cleaning properties’ was an old refrain.

As a father to a strong daughter and leader to some exceptionally talented and capable young women, it got

considered a disability.

DID YOU KNOW?

excitement over its ‘superior

www.mediaupdate.co.za

fly in the face of inclusivity

Not all women cook and clean. If we are

Addressing women not

brutally honest – in the South African culture,

only as mothers but

many women are cleaning homes that

Marketers believe as leaders, mentors, 75 percent of budget spent spiritual mothers, sisters, on marketing to African women is wasted – including aunts and teachers, their own. These were the brands have an findings of a Kantar Added incredible opportunity Value thought leadership study. Source: to reach women without

me thinking. Brands that

All women love cooking and cleaning

alienating a significant part of their audience.

are not their own. For example, if we take washing powder, this puts a new spin on the disparity between the target market and buying power and whether the target market actually affects the purchase decision.

There are women who arrive home from work between 18h00 and 19h00, and who then have homework, tests, projects and speeches to complete. Tell them about

by depicting a lazily formulaic narrative are losing out on telling truly

All women are married

quick, healthy meals they can serve their

phenomenal stories. Such as those

A Tinder survey of singles aged

family, without the guilt. Give them a product

of women who are emergency

between 18 and 25 revealed

that cleans today’s sports kit in time for the

workers, farmers, bankers, engineers

80 percent of respondents felt staying

next morning. Tell them about the material

or single mothers.

single was better for work, friendship,

their son’s school shirt is made of and how it

fitness and unique experiences. In

won’t need ironing if you hang it up tonight

women made up 50 percent of the

2014, statistics showed about

to be dry for tomorrow.

South African population. Considering

50.2 percent of American adults

this, there are three stereotypes brands

were single.

According to Stats SA, in 2017 young

would be well-advised to avoid, to

A growing number of men and

Women make up nearly 85 percent of the consumer market. Brands cannot afford to ignore even a small percentage of them,

women also choose single parenting

or to only focus on them during Women’s

for various reasons. Over 62 percent of

Month. This is sure to see them lose out on

All women are mothers

children born in South Africa have no

market share, brand loyalty, credibility, trust

Not all women are mothers or want to

father listed on their birth certificate.

and ultimately, profits.•

be mothers. If Millennials are said to

Avoiding following their mothers’ and

be having children later or not at all,

grandmothers’ paths, many women no

studies show that Generation Z women

longer feel pressurised to get married.

reach a whole new demographic.

will have even less mothers, which

That said, it’s not always a woman

should be okay. Infertility, careers,

who is using a brand’s washing

societal pressure, cost of living and the

powder. Your consumer could be

lure of single life have an impact on

a father who has his kids for the

when and if women have children.

weekend, or it may be a successful

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Yaw Dwomoh is an entrepreneur and heads up Idea Hive – a specialist brand storytelling agency, which helps brands like McDonald’s tell authentic stories.

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

11

EVENTS

Creating a gateway to the growing African market HPCI South Africa, an expo showcasing ingredients for home and personal care applications, will take place on 4 and 5 September at Gallagher Convention Centre. Coschem is hosting its annual scientific conference in conjunction with the HPCI exhibition.

T

he African continent is a

The Care Co., and Vantage

Fourchem branded deck chair – who

growing market for the

Specialty Chemicals.

says business shouldn’t be fun.

personal and home care

Have fun with Fourchem

Savannah creates brilliance

organised in emerging markets such

If you’re searching for a well-

Offering a value driven ingredients

as India, Istanbul, Poland and South

established, owner managed

package, Savannah Fine

Africa, present an ideal opportunity to

ingredients supplier, look no further

Chemicals seeks to improve

suppliers to showcase their products to

than Fourchem. The company has

the lives of its customers

prospective customers.

been operating in Africa for over 10

by being a constructive,

years and is highly regarded as a one

synergistic and well

and international suppliers, contract

stop shop for all raw material needs for

implemented business.

manufacturers, brand owners and

the cosmetics industry.

Established in 1990, Savannah retains its

industries. HPCI events,

Consultants, formulators, local

agents are expected to attend the show.

Fourchem brings products to Africa

start-up philosophy by staying true to

from some of the world’s most highly

its purpose:

regarded producers of ingredients. These

• ‘curious by nature’ keeps the

Ayanda African Oils, Brenntag South

ingredients are available from a single

company relevant

Africa, Carst & Walker SA, Chemgrit

point of contact and delivered to your

• ‘can do’ relates to its positivity and

Cosmetics, CJP Chemicals, Croda SA,

factory floor with no hassles.

Exhibitors include AMA Laboratories,

Cosmetic Ingredients co-located with

enthusiasm, which make Savannah

The company has extensive experience

Quantum Colours, the Department of

in full supply chain logistics from Cape

Trade and Industry, Dia-Stron, Evonik

to Cairo and is equipped to deliver on all

Industries, Fourchem, Kaza Natural

order sizes on the best possible lead times.

Oils, Millchem, Mireuxus, Orkila, Savannah Fine Chemicals, Symrise,

Visit the Fourchem stand at the HPCI expo and take a selfie in the giant

a responsive and effective business • ‘collaboration’, which shows the company is focused on connections that yield value for all.

Savannah has built a reputation based on its quality suppliers and

CJP Chemicals invites you to visit our HPCI Exhibition STAND. 4 - 5 September 2019 at Stand 8 Gallagher Exhibition Centre We will be showcasing ingredients and concept solutions for the home and personal care industries.

Tel: +27 11 494 6700 • www.cjpchemicals.co.za

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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

EVENTS

by providing the best ingredients at competitive prices. It utilises support systems that make sense to its customers’ businesses and it has a proven product development capability, which sets Savannah apart.

Proudly tested in Africa by Croda SA Reports show the amount of money being spent on African hair and skin care is rising. While relaxers still make up the majority of the African hair care category, a growing consumer led effort towards virgin hair has shifted industry economics.

Dine and dance the night away The Coschem annual gala dinner promises to be a memorable evening.

Entertainers, the Belting Betties are sure to blow away the attendees with their dazzling tunes and moves.

These three gorgeous and ridiculously talented female singer/dancers perform a mind-blowing show.

The ticket price for the gala dinner is included in the conference registration fee. The dinner is also open to those not attending the conference; if you’re interested in joining everyone for the dinner, you are required to RSVP. Please send an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za.

equipped to analyse the performance of Croda’s active ingredients to meet consumer demand. Through its ‘Proudly Tested in Africa’ initiative, Croda SA continue to gain direct consumer feedback in order to offer a more comprehensive and targeted data package to customers. Visit the Croda team at the HPCI expo to find out more.

The Vantage promise Vantage has a fast growing portfolio of naturally derived ingredients, from farm to your formulations. Founded on a heritage of caring, curiosity and belief in the power of natural chemistry, an entrepreneurial spirit drives the company in its quest to always seek a better way.

Croda SA has commissioned and supported a number of focus

challenges and inspired Croda SA

groups with African women to better

to invest in new analytical and

has emerged as one of the fastest

understand their hair care regime

testing equipment.

growing and most reliable suppliers

and the challenges they face in

The company’s Centre of Excellence

Over the past 10 years, Vantage

of personal care ingredients. With a

maintaining healthy hair and skin.

in South Africa now uses bespoke and

global presence and 13 laboratories

This has given the company’s R&D

unique hair and skin testing methods

around the world, the company

team new insight into their hair care

for the African market. The R&D team is

provides regional support to customers

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

13

EVENTS and delivers essential ingredients for fast innovation.

Back integrated into natural oils and oleo chemistry, Vantage uses science to transform naturally derived products by bringing technology from the lab into the global marketplace.

Every day, its people are focused on implementing new ways in science and technology to help solve some of the world’s pressing challenges. Vantage’s R&D team does this by applying specialised chemistry and formulations to each specific issue.

Visit the Vantage Specialty Chemicals stand at the HPCI expo to learn about its natural innovations and revolutionary products for the African market.

agents, actives, oils and butters, fragrances and preservatives.

It also offers technical assistance

Conference programme highlights ‘The conference theme is “Innovating

with formulations and applications to

the Possibility” and the programme

customers using its products.

focusses on the dissemination of

Specialist solutions from Carst & Walker

in South Africa in 1934. Over the

class scientists and professionals to the

The company offers a wide range of

years, it has expanded to become a

African continent,’ comments Wayne van

synthetic and natural speciality raw

substantial importer and distributor

Wyk, chair of the scientific committee

materials for personal and home

of chemical raw materials which find

of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists

care products. Carst & Walker South

application in the personal care,

(Coschem). ‘Local and international

Africa’s portfolio includes thickeners,

pharma, adhesive, coatings, food,

presenters have been invited to present

emulsifiers, emollients, texturing

paper, plastics and rubber industries.

posters and papers outlining new research

The company was established

scientific information, bringing world

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

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Sensetek.indd 1

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

EVENTS and innovative materials that can be brought to market. The scientific conference is central to the ongoing development of the African cosmetics industry and a key platform for knowledge sharing.’

The key note address will be presented by Prof. Dr Dr-Ing Juergen Lademann, head of the Centre of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology from the CharitéUniversitaetsmedizin Berlin, Germany. Lademann is also the current IFSCC president. He will report on Recent Developments of Sunscreens: UV or Light Protection.

The programme also features high ranking international and local speakers, who will address burning issues and present

NATURAL BEAUTY: WE MAKE IT SCIENCE

solutions to current challenges in the cosmetics industry.

Janusz Luterek of Hahn & Hahn will speak on Intellectual Property, Indigenous Knowledge, and the Biodiversity Act Effect on Cosmetic Product Development. Hugh Fraser of Paragon Architects will present Stop Motion: Languages of City Life: Architectural Fabric and Facets of Human Existence. Karen Swanepoel of the South African Essential Oil Producers Association will discuss the Importance of Essential Oils Standards in South Africa for the Cosmetics Industry. Part of the IFSCC international speaker programme, Tony O’Lenick of Siltech in the USA will discuss Innovating with Minimally Disruptive Formulations and packaging technology will come under the spotlight in a presentation by Sean Kirkham of Teqal, called A Jar is Born. Poonam Sewraj of L’Oréal South Africa will present the results of a Kinetic Study on Scalp Sensitivity Symptoms that occur on the Scalp of African Women.

Data sources for safety assessors of cosmetics products will be discussed by Andrea Weber, Dr. Babor’s head of R&D in Germany.

Safety assessment seminar

Mild Anionic Surfactants Amisoft® and Amilite®, formulated from Glutamic Acid, Glycine and Alanine. They impart a smooth & rich foaming to your formulations, without irritation or even a trace of toxicity.

Cosmetics product safety assessments are of utmost importance, because all manufacturers and brand owners are responsible for offering safe products to consumers.

Humectants

The particulars of a safety assessment and the qualification of the safety sssessor are legally defined in some regions, including the European Union. However, a person who meets the qualification also requires the experience and constant training to remain updated on global requirements. For this purpose, 20 years ago, the German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent

Ajidew® and Prodew® are all delicately balanced amino acid based moisturizers that are naturally refilling the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor.

Emolients Eldew® is an emollient that adds an elegant sophisticated feel to everything from lipstick and eye make-up to creams, lotions and powders.

Association (IKW) and the German Society for Scientific and Applied Cosmetics (DGK) developed a unique training concept.

Through individual training segments, they offer the opportunity to achieve a DGK Safety Assessor certificate.

Functional Powder Amihope® LL is a multi-functional powder created from L-Lysine and Lauric Acid. Integrated into powders, creams or lotions, Amihope® LL yields silky richness and a luxurious feel.

At the same time, seminars are hosted with local associations, where safety assessors and interested individuals are given an opportunity to learn about innovations while gaining hands on experience in workshops with peers.

Oil Gelling Agents

During the Coschem scientific conference and HPCI expo,

EB-21 & GP-1, allowing you to obtain clear sticks as well as o/w emulsions with a surprizing, delicate texture.

all interested industry specialists will be able to gain more information on safety assessments. This will be the first IKW designed seminar to be held in South Africa in collaboration with the CTFA. The cost to participate in the safety assessment seminar is included in the Coschem conference registration fee. There is a cost of R800 to attend seminar for anyone not attending the full conference. • Entrance to the HPCI South Africa expo is free for trade

Represented in South Africa by Maccallum Pty Ltd T : +27 11 234 8470 | E : rdt@maccallum.co.za

visitors. Visit www.hpci-events.com to pre-register online.

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

AJINOMOTO COMMERCIAL SOUTH AFRICA_88.5x262mm.indd 1

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18/07/2019 15:55

HAIR CARE

Inspired by diversity With a population of around 56 million and a shifting demographic profile, the South African hair care market presents brand owners and manufacturers with vast potential for growth. Savannah Fine Chemicals offers a wide range of ingredients and formulation technologies for hair care applications.

T

he South African hair care market is forecast to reach USD496.64 million in value by 2024, registering a CAGR

of 1.36 percent between 2019 and 2024. According to the growth and trends forecast by Mordor Intelligence, women in the country prefer more variety from their hair care products, going from braids and weaves to

OPTIONS TO CONSIDER WHEN FORMULATING SKIMPING ON SILICONES in a hair care formulation isn’t necessarily a good thing. These ingredients play an important role in hair health, its texture and manageability. If you’re looking to include the real

chemical treatments and other drastic

thing in your formulation, Momentive’s Silsoft CLX-E

style changes.

conditioning agent protects hair from sunlight,

The dry climate and rising pollution

pollution, chemical treatments and excessive heat.

levels can affect the quality of South

It can even restore damaged hair to a healthy,

African’s hair. Environmental factors

more youthful state. Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent

such as UV exposure and pollution are known to have damaging effects on the hair and scalp. Keracyn from Provital is an active obtained from artichoke leaves, which are rich in hydroxycinnamic derivatives with antioxidant properties. These

has the ability to form a durable, crosslinked network on hair. This provides improved manageability along with a soft, radiant appearance without weighing down hair or leaving behind residue. The versatile benefits of Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent can also include excellent straightening with virtually no frizz when combined with heat.

If your formulation demands an effective,

derivatives prevent the opening of

botanical alternative, Floramac 10 is a non-

hair cuticles and preserve the integrity

volatile substitute for low viscosity silicones. This

and health of the fibre. Ex vivo test

moisturising mixture of macadamia esters can be

results show Keracyn protects and

gelled to mimic the properties of medium viscosity

repairs hair from the damage caused by environmental factors to keep it beautiful and healthy.

Provital’s Pronalen Bio-protect is a standardised water soluble plant complex of ginseng, apple, peach,

silicones or it can be used in combination with silicones. Floramac 10 reduces hair breakage and comb force, increases hair shine and provides heat protection.

Silsoft CLX-E conditioning agent and Floramac 10 can be sourced in South Africa from Savannah.

wheat and barley. The complex has a

16

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

proven repellent effect,

a single application of Pronalen Bio-

protecting hair from

protect at three percent significantly

pollution. Ex vivo

decreases the amount of pollution

test results show

(PM2.5), adhering to the hair fibre.

HAIR CARE Aprinnova's high quality, natural emollient Neossance Squalane has been proven to outperform argan oil for its conditioning attributes.

Neossance Squalane is one of

Oxisense S 0440 was developed in

the best natural emollients on the

Brazil over a two year period and is

global market. When tested in a

backed by external analysis carried

rinse-off conditioner, it provides

out by specialised institutes. The most

better combability than argan oil,

challenging aspect of the research was

is more effective in improving hair’s

to achieve a balanced molecule effective

manageability and body and it

in different shampoo and conditioner

offers 23 percent more frizz control

formulations currently on the market.

than argan oil.

When used in a silicone free

Distributed by Savannah, this conditioning agent is compatible with all

conditioner, Neossance Squalane

surfactant classes and can be used in

improved the wet and dry

shampoos, conditioners, treatment masks,

combing, volume and shine of

combing creams, two in one shampoos

the hair tresses tested. This novel

and other leave-on products.

Both Keracyn and Pronalen Bio-

emollient, available locally from

protect are distributed locally

Savannah, offers new options

Combating hair loss

by Savannah.

to formulators to deliver better

The problem of hair loss affects both men

performance in clean label hair

and women and is as a result of various

care products.

reasons. Despite the different aetiologies,

Natural ingredients In the textured hair care category,

there is a common link between all

a large portion of consumers are

New conditioning agent

moving away from harsh chemical

Oxisense S 0440 from Oxiteno is a

cells become latent and hair growth

relaxers in favour of less invasive

new conditioning agent suitable

processes stop.

products to manage their curls.

for price sensitive markets like

Oils, complex treatments and nourishing hair foods are more in demand than ever before.

South Africa. It could potentially

DID YOU KNOW?

be used as a replacement for Polyquaternium 10,

causes of hair loss – the dermal papilla

Vytrus Biotech’s ingredient Capilia Longa PPF, made from Curcuma longa (turmeric) callus culture, offers a solution for hair loss. It achieves

Cationic Guar and

Redken’s new Nature + Behentrimonium Science range is housed in from a variety of the recyclable packaging and features Chloride. three of the brand’s best-selling Cannabis plant, is According cleansing conditioning duos. known to naturally to Oxiteno, the Each addresses specific needs, calm inflammation such as damage repair, product was colour protection and softening of the scalp and inspired by the hair strands. They are also to condition the diversity of global formulated with 100 percent strands, promoting fibre natural fragrances. hair types. It can be

hair growth

Hemp oil derived

rejuvenation, improved

added to a shampoo or

reactivation through a biological approach because it’s rich in signalling peptides specially designed to create the optimal micro-environment to re-activate growth.

Available in South Africa from Savannah, Capilia LongaPPF produces an epigenetic

appearance and a softer

reset of the hair bulb, re-activating the

hair texture.

activity within the dermal papilla cells while

Stearic Acid is one of the main

simultaneously nourishing the hair follicle

constituents of hemp seed oil. This

with a nutritive blend.

constituent contributes to its ability

A full panel of in vitro and in vivo tests

to condition and protect hair from

have been done to demonstrate the

damage without diminishing lustre

efficacy of Capilia LongaPPF. It boosts

or weighing it down. Savannah

hair growth density and quality, delays

distributes refined and virgin hemp

hair loss, strengthens the hair, activates

seed oil from Olvea Vegetable Oils

hair follicle regeneration, stimulates bulb

which are ideal for use in hair and

micro-circulation and nutrition and resets

skin care applications.

the hair cycle, extending the Anagen

The inclusion of natural

phase while delaying the start of the

ingredients with moisturising

inactive phases, both in men and women

properties is also very popular

with any kind of alopecia. •

due to their conditioning benefits.

conditioner formulation to promote

Shea butter and olive, argan and

frizz control and support damage

monoi oils are some of the natural

prevention. It also promises to

ingredients in high demand.

leave hair smoother and softer.

Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

17

HAIR CARE

Science based green beauty blends This year, sustainability and biodegradability are at the forefront of hair care developments.

Vantage’s latest sustainable innovation is a combination of moisturising jojoba oil and plant based ethoxylation chemistry to create a water soluble humectant.

J

ojoba Aqua Bio-120 (INCI:

non-ionic surfactant or

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters)

formulation solubiliser.

is a naturally derived water

The emollient wax is designed

soluble jojoba wax ester. It’s

on the basis of ‘from the farms

sustainable, naturally sourced and free

of Vantage Specialty Ingredients

of petroleum derived materials. The

to your formulations’ to bring the

bio ethylene oxide (EO) is derived from

moisturisation of DW Jojoba Oil in

non-GMO corn. This is combined

a water soluble form. It provides

with jojoba oil to create a new high performance, ecofriendly ingredient.

Positioned as a

the hair softening and

DID YOU KNOW?

conditioning properties associated with DW

Jojoba Oil in an easy to DW Jojoba Oil is sourced use water-soluble form. from plants grown on Vantage’s ingredient, Jojoba farms in the Sonoran Desert, North America and Aqua Bio-120 provides Natural and easy in Patagonian emolliency to the skin and to use Desert, Argentina. hair. It also acts as a mild Jojoba oil is a liquid multifunctional

wax ester unlike all other naturally occurring oils, including vegetable oils, which are triglycerides. As a result, jojoba oil is non-occlusive and has superior

water or surfactant based formulations

performance and properties like

and aids in fragrance oil solubilisation in

non-greasy emolliency and high

aqueous solutions.

oxida¬tive stability.

In surfactant systems, Jojoba Aqua

Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 is easy

Bio-120 contributes to foam thickening,

to incorporate into a variety of

increasing its creaminess and aiding

surfactant based products. It may

the perception of a pleasant film residue

be used in both hot process and

even after rinse off.

cold process applications and does not have a negative impact on foam generation in rinse off applications.

It is also a clarifying agent for all

Shampoo evaluation The sensorial benefits of three percent Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 were evaluated

Straight, Curly or Styled –

We supply raw materials for making Haircare Products PG USP Lime Caustic all types Thioglycolates Surfactants Preservatives Emollients

Emulsifiers Potassium Hydroxide Glycerine PEG’s Alcohols Claims

Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 | Cape Town (021) 534 3140 | Durban (031) 902 5324 | Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981

18

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

HAIR CARE Table 1: Clean and gentle shampoo

COCONUT-AVOCADO HAIR MILK

Phase Ingredient

INCI

A

Deionised Water

Water

A

Glycerin

Glycerin

DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR hair care applications,

B

Carbopol Aqua SF-1

Acrylates Copolymer

10.00

Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk is a stable, water thin, oil in water

C

Hamposyl L-30K

Water (and) Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate

10.00

emulsion. It is prepared by ultrasonic cavitation utilising oils

C

Metaupon KMT 30

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

4.00

with known benefits for hair and a plant based, biomimetic

C

Natriumisethionat Fest

Sodium Isethionate

6.00

phospholipid, resulting in the formation of micro-droplets.

C

Jojoba Aqua Bio 120

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

3.00

D

Deionised Water

Water

1.00

has a natural affinity for hair because nearly half of its fatty

D

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Chloride

0.20

acid profile made up of Lauric Acid. Hair protein easily binds

E

Phenoxyethanol

Phenoxyethanol

1.00

E

Sensiva SC50

Ethylhexylglycerin

0.10

F

Sodium Hydroxide 20% solution

Water (and) Sodium Hydroxide

1.80

The milk easily penetrates and nourishes hair. Coconut oil

with Lauric Acid, gradually leading to the strengthening of hair strands and reducing breakage. Avocado oil, rich in fatty acids and vitamins essential for healthy hair and skin, imparts an overall luxurious and creamy feel.

Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk is stable, versatile and easy to use. It is suitable even for sprayable and cold process formulations. The recommended use level is up to 20 percent in a variety of hair care applications, including shampoos, conditioners, masks, treatments and styling products. It can also be promoted to consumers as a 100 percent booster to be mixed their existing beauty products.

When formulating, Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk should be added post emulsification, post neutralisation or as a final step at temperatures below 35°C.

% 59.90 3.00

A mild sulphate free shampoo with a creamy texture which is gentle on the hair and scalp

using a Mannequin head. The test

and improved conditioning,

method involved a half head with a

especially at the hair ends,

control formulation while a Jojoba

versus the placebo.

Aqua Bio-120 based shampoo was

It also significantly

used on the other half. Only shampoo

increased the

was used for the evaluation.

sensorial feel

The results revealed Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 improved wet and dry

during and after application. •

combability due to the formation of a film when compared to the placebo.

Without conditioner, Jojoba Aqua Bio-120 modified the texture of hair

Vantage Specialty Ingredients – kim@lipo.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

19

HAIR CARE

Beautiful hair starts at the scalp Consumers’ lifestyle and diet as well as the environment and pollution impact the health of their skin and scalp. Lubrizol strongly believes the scalp is the soil of the hair. If cared for, nurtured and protected, the scalp will contribute to hair’s health and appearance.

L

DID YOU KNOW?

ubrizol’s experts have developed a range

Even after deep rinsing, particles in traditional scrubs

may stick to the scalp or The newest product launched hair, leaving behind an in the Tela Life Force Probiotic Haircare Collection is the unpleasant sensation. to clean, sooth and probiotic scalp scrub. The scrub Sugar used in scrubs nourish the scalp. is formulated with more than 35 eliminates this issue as Named A Good Start, certified organics, superfruits and sugar esters to support the the particles fully dissolve this concept includes hair and scalp and designed while rinsing with water. two pre-shampoos, two to be used as a preCompletely anhydrous, shampoos and one leaveshampoo treatment. this polyols based gel on formulation. of five innovative formulations

creates moisturisation, enhances

The combination of olive and argan oils contributes to nourishing the scalp Gentle antidandruff shampoo This type of shampoo is the most popular product in the scalp care segment. Yet the stabilisation of anti-dandruff actives such as zinc pyrithione remains a challenge.

Besides the poor visuals, the default of

Stimulating sugar scrub

spreading on scalp and avoids the

stabilisation can also affect the deposition

With only eight ingredients, this

dissolution of sugar in the formula.

of the active on the scalp.

affordable. The mechanical action

Sebum control mask

has specifically developed this shampoo

of the sugar particles promotes

When the scalp overproduces sebum,

to maximise formulation stability and

exfoliation of the scalp, removing

it feels greasy and appears shiny.

deposition of the anti-dandruff agent on

formulation is very simple and

In response to these challenges, Lubrizol

Consumers who experience this

dead cells and stimulating

should apply the sebum control mask

blood circulation.

the scalp.

The addition of two conditioning

for five to 10 minutes before rinsing

polymers helps to detangle and enhance

and shampooing.

the wet and dry feel of the hair.

This formulation consists of 10 percent clay and will absorb excess

Oil pearls scalp elixir

sebum. It will also contribute to

An oil based and silicone free serum is

hydrating the scalp and relieving

ideal for damaged hair and a sensitive

itchiness together with the presence

scalp. The combination of olive and argan

of humectant and eucalyptus oil. The

oils contributes to nourishing the scalp,

mousse texture is pleasant and easy to

making the hair smoother and shinier

apply thanks to the use of an efficient

while preventing a greasy feel. Pemulen

conditioning polymer.

EZ-4U polymeric emulsifier gives this scalp elixir a unique fresh sensory and stunning

Detox and exfoliating shampoo

appearance by suspending oil droplets

This two in one shampoo is designed

of the formulation guarantees optimal

for consumers looking for a simple,

spreading over the hair and scalp. •

into the aqueous gel. The low viscosity

convenient and high performing scalp care routine. It will clean the hair and gently eliminate dirt and dead skin cells on the scalp thanks to the natural

Lubrizol – www.lubrizol.com/Personal-Care

apricot shell particles.

“Manufacturers of self adhesive labels, shrink sleeves, folding cartons, sachets & wrappers.”

Email quotes@clomark.com

ISO 9001: 2015

20

Telephone 011-314 5444

LEVEL 1 B-BBEE

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

Website www.clomark.com

ISO 14001: 2015

HAIR CARE

Sustainable, next level ingredients Hair is not only a unique personal characteristic; it also creates a perception of one’s health and beauty. With sustainability, traceability and product efficacy driving fundamental changes in the hair care industry, Givaudan Active Beauty presents a range of innovative solutions for on-trend hair care products.

C

onsumers are mindful about their product preference and interested in

integrating health and wellness into their lives. As a result, they expect brands to fully incorporate health, beauty and sustainability in their

DID YOU KNOW?

plant sources of Givaudan Active Beauty experts love to go further. The bisabolol to offer company will be unveiling an innovative and a new sustainable hair care active ingredient renewable solution. during September.

This helps brands Watch this space for more information. develop new, fully

product offerings.

natural formulations

Givaudan Active Beauty understands

hair care. Knowing that after clinical trials, 96 percent of consumers would continue using a product formulated ResistHyal, is the best reward the company could expect.

A leave-on option Beauty brands and their ingredients

expected by consumers.

suppliers are also encouraging consumers

these new needs by integrating them into

to save water. This is key to sustainability

its active ingredients. Represented locally

Natural beauty enhancer

by The Care Co., it embraces sustainability

Givaudan Active Beauty likes to innovate in

its active ingredient Darkenyl has been

and hair care health in many ways.

all areas and sustainability is one of them.

developed to be suitable for leave-on

The company recently launched

Biorefinery is at the core of its production

formulations. Sustainability, like ageing

Bisabolife. This active ingredient is a

plant while raw materials such as wheat

hair, is a global concern.

sustainable molecule produced using an

and sugar beets are sourced from farmers

exclusive fermentation process. Fully

in France, where the company is based.

bio-sourced, it takes care of sensitive

at Givaudan Active Beauty and a reason

Givaudan’s skin experts have designed Darkenyl to counteract the hair whitening

With a naturality index of over 98

biological process, by combining two

skin and scalp by fortifying, soothing

percent, ResistHyal is the very first bio-active

synergistic molecules, the taxifolin

and restoring comfort. Bisabolife also

ingredient based on the natural properties

glucoside, a unique stabilised plant

reduces skin redness and in a post shaving

of hyaluronic acid – a major polymer of

polyphenol and N-acetyl Tyrosine, a

application it offers an instant soothing

the human body. This multifunctional

soluble precursor of melanin synthesis.

benefit (-81 percent versus a placebo in a

active delivers several benefits, including

clinical test).

hydration, natural volume, frizz control,

use in a hair colour recovery spray leave-

increased shine, improved softness and

on formulation. •

Bisabolife is strictly identical to the plant active isomer of (-)-α-bisabolol,

This active ingredient is suitable for

better hair resistance.

known for its anti-inflammatory, anti-

Thanks to Active Beauty’s expertise in

oxidant, mildly astringent and healing

hyaluronic acid, the open platform of

properties. Givaudan Active Beauty has

ResistHyal allows brands to create new

looked beyond the existing chemical or

innovative end products and rituals for

Givaudan Active Beauty – www.givaudan.com The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za

ingredient suppliers skin care, hair care, body care, masks, active, functional, visual, vectorised ingredients, oils, butters, scrubs, clays, plant extracts, rheologicals, emulsifiers, esters, nail polish, nail treatments, polish removers, pigments, colour cosmetics, hair bleach, dyes, specialised packaging, jars, bottles, tubes, plastic, halal tel: +27112685555 • email: info@careco.co.za • www.careco.co.za • unit 15, 1 melrose boulevard, melrose arch, johannesburg • unit 207a, soho building, 2 rose street, cape town, south africa

68. Care Co Sticker - P&C Advert 2019 (176x65mm)®®.indd 1

2019/07/23 10:02 AM

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

21

HAIR CARE

Scalp wellness is always in style The healthier the scalp, the healthier the hair – this idea has been the springboard for the latest product launches in the global hair care industry. Shani Vermeulen of Cosmetic Ingredients shares insight into the attributes of beautiful hair, of which scalp care is paramount.

I

n a world where overall wellness is a key

Associated with

concept, consumers are homing in on

dandruff, Malassezia

scalp care because the scalp is not just

helps maintain the

any skin tissue. It is highly specialised

acid balance on the

because of the various functions it

scalp by breaking down the

performs, such as being a physical barrier,

triglycerides in sebum, with oleic acid as

an immunological protector, a thermal

one of a few by-products.

regulator and a sebum producer. It contains a high number of blood vessels,

The causes of dandruff

sebaceous glands and sweat glands to

When the microflora balance is

perform these functions. The sebaceous

disturbed by external factors, such

glands lubricate and waterproof the scalp

as chemicals, UV exposure,

and hair and the sweat glands regulate

sunburn, or mechanical stress,

the body temperature by perspiring.

it affects the condition of

We all have lipophilic microflora,

the scalp or traumatises the

including Malassezia species, on

hair follicle. The result is an

the surface of our scalps which live

increase in internal factors,

symbiotically with their human hosts.

including sebum production,

22

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

HAIR CARE

Blurred lines between hair and skin care The latest line up of scalp specific products has been designed with the ‘crossover’ trend in mind. Their benefits go beyond that of a regular dandruff shampoo with lotions, masks and spot treatments reimagined for hair and scalp care. Innovative examples include Oribe Scalp Soothing Leave-On Treatment, Christophe Robin Cleansing Purifying Scrub With Sea Salt, and R+Co Acid Wash ACV Cleansing Rinse.

Source: www.thecut.com

stems, leaves or fruits, but still produces much more oxygen than it requires. The marine plant releases the excess oxygen to the environment and is widely recognised for its therapeutic, regenerating and toning properties. Seaweed also contains high concentrations of proteins, vitamins and mineral salts. These benefits are harnessed in Assessa, which helps protect the scalp against irritation caused by chemical hair straighteners and dyes. It is also often used in combination with traditional antidandruff agents since it assists in balancing oil levels on the scalp and in this way, potentiates anti-dandruff action.

Combat hair loss

DID YOU KNOW?

any of these for lengthy periods create

The continuous traumatisation and

a warm and humid microclimate on the

microinflammation of the hair follicle

scalp. This also happens to be the ideal environment for microbes to flourish.

results in hair loss. This is evident in the receding hairlines of women whose scalps have been regularly exposed to hair

The main fatty acid of the hair fibre’s lipid composition is known as 18-Methyl Eicosanoic Acid or 18-MEA.

Actives for a healthy scalp

straighteners. Traction alopecia is the result

It has been shown dandruff control

of hair having been pulled too tightly when

eventually results in normalisation

applying braids and extensions.

of the stratum corneum. Cosmetic Ingredients’ anhydrous blend

Bioex Capillar CP4G is a complex of plant extracts traditionally used in preventing

aMaloCoat AD enables formulators

and combating hair loss. The complex

to incorporate the anti-dandruff agent Zinc

is enriched with Acetyl Methionine, an

immune response and sweat, leading to

Pyrithione into hair food and hair

amino acid essential for the formation

excessive production of oleic acid, which is

oil products.

and development of healthier, strong hair.

very irritating to skin. If the over-production

Aqia’s Tribocontrol CO is a rebalancing

Bioex Capillar CP4G is suggested for the

and irritation are not addressed, dandruff

plant complex, which consists of essential

treatment and prevention of excessive hair

eventually develops. Even without flaking,

oils, flavonoids, glucosides, terpenes,

loss, due to its proven action of hair growth

stratum corneum abnormalities occur

coumarins, mucilage, tannins and

and hair bulb restoration. •

throughout the scalp of dandruff sufferers.

Rosmarinic Acid. It promotes hair and scalp

These range from hyperproliferation and

cleansing from the root, by controlling

lipid droplets within corneocytes to fewer

excessive oil. It restores the balance of oily

desmosomes and excessively disorganised

hair without drying and helps to prevent

intercellular lipids.

dryness, itching and irritation of the scalp.

Helmets, hats and weaves all have the potential to cause scalp problems – wearing

Ormagel XPU from Assessa is a natural algae extract. Seaweed has no roots,

Johannesburg Johannesburg Head Head Office Office Sevens WarehouseComplex Complex Seven Warehouse 33 Bernie Street, Unit Kya Sands Sands Bernie Street, Unit 3, 3, Kya Tel. Tel. No.: No.: +27 +27 (0) (0) 11 11 708-0007 708-0007 www.braganchemicals.co.za Musa Sibanda +27 (0) 66 485 4622 musa@braganchemicals.co.za

Aqia –www.aqia.net/en Assessa – www.assessa.com.br/en Cosmetic Ingredients – www.cosmetic-ingredients.co.za

DurbanOffice Office Durban Tel.No.: No.:+27 +27(0) (0)8383252 3034826 7320 Tel. Cape Town Office Cape Town Office Tel. No.: +27 (0) 78 780 9976 Tel. No.: +27 (0) 78 780 9976 Port Elizabeth Office Port Tel. Elizabeth No.: +27 Office (0) 71 213 9288 Tel. No.: +27 (0) 71 213 9288 www.braganchemicals.co.za

WE IT TAKES TAKES WEDO DOWHAT WHAT IT P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

23

HAIR CARE

Silikes – a substitute for silicones

Maian, a new principal of Millchem, has developed a complete line of natural silicone substitutes. Silikes offer a one to one natural replacement for a wide variety of silicones, providing a game changer for hair care formulations.

I

t is essential that companies adapt to

silicones. They are developed and

the accumulation of residues. Another

consumers’ requirements in terms of

produced in Brazil, where Maian is based

remarkable property of Silikes is their sensorial

sustainability, transparency and

and which is home to one of the largest

similarity to silicones, which provides an

choice of ingredients. Consumers

hair care markets worldwide.

extremely pleasant feel on hair.

want clean products based on simple

Silikes are available in the most varied

Silikes have the same film forming

formulations and often value those with

viscosities and some options are more

properties as silicones and impart softness

natural ingredients.

volatile than others. This provides a wide

and silkiness. Because both compounds

variety of alternatives for skin and hair

are so similar, Silikes can be used in a

care applications.

formulation to accomplish the same

Silikes have the same film forming properties as silicones As a result, Maian has developed

purpose as a silicone. They are suitable

Like for like

for use in conditioners, combing creams,

If you’re looking to replace traditional

anti-frizz serums and other leave on hair

silicones in hair care products, Silikes offer a

care products. •

good alternative. These volatile compounds

Silikes – a range of natural silicone

do not seal the hair strands in a way that

substitutes. These ingredients maintain

would leave them impermeable.

the performance and physico-chemical and sensorial characteristics of traditional

They also contribute to the pleasant effect of emollience without build up or

INNOVATION

BY NATURE Millchem is proud to introduce our new agency MAIAN from Brazil, providing clean beauty with a natural replacement for silicones, lanolin, mineral oil, and vaseline.

A complete line of natural silicone substitutes, SILIKES, is now available.

Email giulio@millchem.co.za for further information.

JOHANNESBURG: +27 (0)11 974 2255 CAPE TOWN: +27 (0)21 557 6527/8 DURBAN: +27 (0)31 569 1486 / 1458 www.millchem.co.za

24

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

Maian – www.maian.com.br/en Millchem – www.millchem.co.za

HAIR CARE

Committed to sustainability with new ISO data

Croda has been working hard to create an extensive list of products, which according to ISO 16128 guidelines, are natural, organic or mineral cosmetics ingredients. The company recently launched this new ISO 16128 data.

U

ntil now, there has been no industry

50 percent when calculated using one

a list of products in line with the ISO 16128

wide definition for ‘natural’, so the

of the methods stated in the ISO 16128

guideline is just one example of how the

rise in popularity of the ISO 16128

standard. It is important to note this is not

company is doing this.

data is not surprising. According

a certification but a guide to calculating

Sederma, Croda and Crodarom have

to Mintel, from 2012 to 2018 there was a 50

and categorising personal care ingredients.

an extensive list of products that meet

percent increase in personal care products

This is to aid ingredients selection when

the definitions outlined in the ISO 16128

claiming to be ‘all natural’.

formulating, to meet consumers’ growing

standard. These have been embedded in

Clean beauty, DIY beauty and vegan beauty have all contributed to the significant growth in demand for natural ingredients and formulations

demand for natural cosmetics.

its online product finder, making it quick

Trends such as clean beauty, DIY beauty

and easy to locate them when searching

Natural chemistry heritage Chris Sayner, Croda’s vice president

innovating with more natural and

‘Given our company’s long established

sustainable ingredients whilst growing

and industry leading heritage in natural

its list of personal care technologies with

chemistry, more than 60 percent of our raw

natural certifications or compliance. •

materials come from bio-based sources.

the significant growth in demand for natural

We are pleased to offer a wide range of

ingredients and formulations.

ingredients meeting the ISO16128 standard.’

mineral’, products must be greater than

The global company is constantly

of corporate sustainability, comments:

and vegan beauty have all contributed to

To be defined ‘natural, organic or

for products with natural credentials.

Croda is passionate about helping

Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com

customers meet market demands. Creating

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

MATTE & SHINE

If the runways of the leading fashion designers are anything to go by, the trends in make-up and styling are dominated by two looks: matte and shine. The fresh, young shine look is achieved with a radiant make-up complemented by healthy glossy hair. The “undone” appearance of matte, on the other hand, is created by nude-make-up and faded gloss in beach waves. Whether for hair care, skin care or makeup – achieve the perfect matte or shine look with BELSIL ® silicones and HDK ® silicas from WACKER.

Your official distributor in South Africa

www.wacker.com/personalcare

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

25

COLOUR COSMETICS

Artistic, bright, bold and beautiful

Every year, fashion trends shift the beauty world to a new place of innovation. They inspire agencies and ingredient suppliers to collaborate on colour forecasts, which help brand owners and manufacturers create colour cosmetics consumers will love. By Abby Vorster

M

erck’s colour forecasts

The first look, Solar Celebration

Experimental woman is fascinated

have been shaping

is based on a makeup palette that

by the vital force of plants and the

makeup palettes for

gives skin a sun kissed look and

development of microorganisms. In her

decades. According to

warm radiance. On the eyes, shades

personal style, she pushes biomimicry

the Beauty Business Journal, creating

of red earth and clayey browns

to self-metamorphoses and dares to

the right colour palette is an important

are combined with the colours of a

wear the craziest contrasts.

element of a product’s success.

canyon’s fiery sky. The deep, dense

Colour forecasting also provides

pigments of Neo Folk – the second look

a reliable gauge of next season’s

– plunge into twilight spirituality. Sticky,

popular colours.

oily textures are crushed and spread

For its 2019 spring/summer colour forecast, Merck has focused heavily

like fruit directly applied onto the skin.

Its textures like these which inspired

Solar Celebration is based on a makeup palette that gives skin a sun kissed look and warm radiance

on fusions of the natural and artificial,

Merck’s glossy lip finish formulation

bringing interesting contradictions into

(see Table 1). Hot and almost molten in

play. Developed in collaboration with

texture, this innovative lip care product

NellyRodi, a renowned international

is based on the deep red of Merck’s

forecasting agency, the Captivation

Ronastar Flaming Lights and Ronastar

variety of bright, fresh shades. There

forecast presents four key themes.

Red Allure with Colorona Red Brown,

are two looks, one for the daytime

protected by RonaCare AP.

and another bolder evening look.

Solar Shaman

Green is present in this theme in a

Green Lab is based on laboratory

Karen Maier, Merck’s head of

Organic Experimental

romanticism, with pastels and

performance materials in South Africa,

Consumers want beauty brands to be

variations of pink in the palette. In

says the Solar Shaman theme is a

ethical. Mintel’s trends and innovation

Micro Organism the colours become

good look for the local market. It is

consultant, Marta Panasiuk says

deep and intense, with dense reds

natural; Ethnic; full of sunshine, light

consumers judge beauty brands by

spread over midnight blues and

and earthy tones; primitive and it

the way they treat their employees,

heavy greens – a perfect palette for

celebrates life.

suppliers and the communities within

the evening.

‘The main colour range resonates

the regions in which they operate.

with South African skin tones and is

‘Sustainability is also important, but

Magnetic Vestal

complementary to local consumers’

companies have to be totally credible

Ethereal, sophisticated, digital and

needs,’ she explains.

and transparent,’ Panasiuk comments.

evanescent, the Magnetic Vestal

Solar Shaman celebrates life to

Sustainable, green innovations are

woman is radiant and captivated by

the rhythm of the sun and earth.

the starting point for Merck’s Organic

Influenced by tribal cults and primitive

Experimental theme, which has a

rituals, this woman envisages the

strong multifunctional focus on ‘care

and glow are key characteristics of this

world from a mystical point of view. Her

and colour’ or ‘colour and protect’

theme,’ comments Maier. ‘Both the

inspirations are the fruit of the cultural

concepts. It speaks to the curious,

Luminescence Fantasy and Floating

melting pot assembled in a joyous

ingenious consumer who believes

Cloud looks of Magnetic Vestal

tumult of psychedelic chaos.

in the power of nature. The Organic

require metallics in order for the trend

26

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

the sun’s magnetic glow.

‘Strobing, radiance, luminescence

COLOUR COSMETICS

Table 1: Glossy lip finish

Phase Ingredients

A

B

INCI

the Sassy Candid

%

woman aims for

Colorona Red Brown

Mica, CI 77491, CI 77891

5.00

Ronastar Flaming Lights

Synthetic Sapphire, CI 77491

3.30

Ronastar Red Allure

CI 77491, CI 77891, Silica, Mica

1.70

RonaCare AP

Bis-ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate

0.50

lifestyle manifesto.

Fragrance Rose Fruitee FEMA

Parfum

0.20

Both the Cute Couture

Propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate

Proplyparaben

0.10

and Abstract Gaming are suitable for

Rheopearl KL2

Dextrin Palmitate

1.00

the South African market.

Rheopearl ISL2

Stearoyl Inulin

9.00

Versagel ME 500

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylene/ Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/ Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, BHT

79.20

good taste and declares couture her new

Cute Couture features touches of pink applied generously to the cheeks, while eyes and nails play on whimsical asymmetric patterns. Colours

to be effective. Eyeliners are used in

The face plays to the rhythm of the

unconventional ways, from interesting

vibrant colours of virtual light and

effects to geometric shapes.’

the techno rainbows of pastel tones

Floating Cloud consists of a natural

showcase an array of satiny pastels and patinated crepe like textures, highlighted by golds and bronzes.

evident in the Luminescence Fantasy

palette imagined like astral nudes with

look. Skin is shiny, iridescent and

gradations of greys, beiges and gold,

radiant; cheeks and eyes are revealed

which enhance the skin. Touches of

through irregular haloes.

The Abstract Gaming look flaunts an assortment of daring, playful colours. Reds and fuchsias merge while classic red is twisted by fluoro tones. Lips are striking and eyes dazzle

silver illuminate the neck, creating a

with self-assurance. •

gentle floating impression. Lips are

Sassy Candid

enriched with warm gold and light shine

This young and cheeky theme is pretty,

while chrome like tones accentuate

sophisticated, refined and humorous.

the eyes.

Ultra-femininity takes centre stage as

Merck – www.merckgroup.com

Advantages at a glance • White matte effect pigment with subtle luminosity • Outstanding velvety skin feeling • Perfect for skin tone adjustment offering natural glow

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

27

COLOUR COSMETICS

Pigments and dyes to make an impact IMCD South Africa has developed an excellent reputation among customers for its one stop shop solution. The company recently welcomed a new managing director and has just been awarded a new distribution agreement from Koel Colours, bringing its broad range of high quality, competitive pigments and dyes to the local market.

T

o support its role as a

customers with colours they can feel

Harrison has taken over from Otto

leading speciality chemicals

and which resonate with consumers

Brinkmann, who has retired. Brinkmann

and food ingredients

on a deeper level.

joined the company in May 1982, which

distributor, IMCD operates

45 laboratories in over 20 countries. The company’s focused laboratory technical teams are at the heart of its technical operations, building, maintaining and expanding relationships with suppliers and customers to create growth opportunities and

At the HPCI India exhibition in

DID YOU KNOW?

March, the company received the Innovation Award in the category Best

The KoelOR portfolio of Ingredients for Altered lake colours from Koel is more stable than water soluble colours Black. This unique and widely used in the cosmetics, innovation boasts pharma and food industries. These regulated, high purity synthetic and a ground-breaking natural colourants confirm to the US technology that and EC colour specifications and meet Directive 95/45/EC. They have provides non-nano, extremely high colour value water dispersible and and an extremely fine particle size with a high degree dust-free carbon black of consistency. for cosmetics and personal

deliver value.

IMCD newest supplier is Koel

care applications. This award

was then Chemimpo SA and which IMCD acquired in 2013. He started as a sales representative and moved through the ranks to eventually become MD. During Brinkmann’s time with the company it has grown consistently at a rate of between 20 and 30 percent per annum. He attributes this success to the strong supplier focus of IMCD. Harrison holds a BSC honours degree in chemistry and applied chemistry; he served as MD of Chemfit for the last 10 years. His experience spans coatings, surfactants and animal health and

from SOFW Journal’s HPCI Events

nutrition. In Harrison’s new role, he will

Colours after the distribution

recognises Koel’s endeavours to excel

drive the development and execution

agreement was made official in June.

in the industry, by developing unique

of IMCD’s strategy and expand the

Based in India, Koel has emerged

technologies that

company’s range of applications and

as a leading supplier of superior

aim to empower

expertise in all segments of the South

quality colours and pigments for

the formulators to

African and Kenyan markets.

the personal care and pharma

produce improved

industries. As a leading supplier of

innovations.

wide range of colourants, Koel has

Koel specialises

IMCD’s personal care laboratories, including the Ethnic Hair Care Centre of Excellence in Johannesburg,

extensive market coverage in both the

in organic

South Africa, are used as supportive

cosmetics and pharma industries.

and inorganic

facilities to develop synergies within

pigments as well

the portfolios of its suppliers. These labs

as oil and water-

also develop formulation prototypes

soluble colours

that answer new trends, carrying out

for cosmetics

projects designed by the technical

The company is home to a fully integrated, state of the art manufacturing facility, which is approved by the Indian FDA for manufacturing all kinds of colours,

Ryan Harrison

and personal care

team and they develop knowledge on

iron oxides and titanium oxides.

applications. It also manufactures

ingredients and formulation concepts,

It provides technical support to

colour solutions for nail care, colour

for future interaction with the sales team

all its customers in the form of

mud for lip care applications and a

and IMCD’s customers. •

an application laboratory and

special grade of carbon black.

formulation expertise. Koel is in the field of colours, utilising

Local operation welcomes new MD

technology, innovation and its

On 1 April, Ryan Harrison joined IMCD

expertise to consistently provide

South Africa as managing director.

dedicated to pursuing excellence

28

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za Koel Colours – www.koelcolours.com

Exclusive agent in the RSA

COLOUR COSMETICS

A grand vision for growth at 16!

Quantum Colours is celebrating its 16th anniversary. This significant milestone coincides with the launch of its new multi-million Rand manufacturing and R&D facility at its premises in Samrand, Gauteng.

The Quantum Colours’ team celebrating 16 years in business

facilitate ease of cleaning.

DID YOU KNOW?

The floors are vinyl coated, giving our

Quantum Colours is an environmentally friendly company. It has upgraded the packaging of its products to a custom made, branded and more sustainable solution.

of Geotech International in South Africa, to market and sell its effect pigments to manufacturers in the cosmetics, coatings

facility a seamless

and plastics industries. Geotech, based

look and feel. The floor

in Haarlem, The Netherlands

areas are also sloped

manufactures and distributes

to aid drainage. The

pearlescent pigments, aluminium

reverse osmosis water

pigments and glitter, which all are

plant has also been upgraded to facilitate the heightened demand for good quality water.’

REACH compliant.

The distribution agreement has also seen Quantum Colours adding a range of international quality cosmetics

Quantum Colours has also divided its

pigments to its already wide range of

laboratory area into a quality control lab,

products. These specialised products

stablished in 2003 by Lonsdale

instrument room and an innovation and

include FDA certified calcium, aluminium

O’Donovan, Quantum Colours

R&D facility with ample space for new

and barium lakes.

has expanded internationally with

product development. These three

representation in Germany and

areas have all been constructed under

PET free glittering effects

positive airflow.

After a period of high demand for

E

Canada. The company manufactures, markets and distributes under licence

‘I would like to take this opportunity to

matte and soft tone effects, according

from Spectratec, a Canadian business.

thank our agents and customers, who

to Geotech, the trend towards

Quantum Colours’ products are also

have been part of Quantum Colours’

glittering effects, preferably PET free,

available in Australia, Ireland and the UK

journey over the past 16 years.

is growing.

through its agent, Carst & Walker.

Thank you for your continued and loyal

PET free is crucial and plays a major

support. We hope to continue to be of

role in the global industry’s efforts to

dedicated dispensing and manufacturing

assistance to you by adding life to colour,

prevent the build-up of microplastics in

cubicles with positive air pressure and

into the future,’ he adds.

the environment. Water quality, animal

‘Our manufacturing facility now includes

filtered air,’ explains O’Donovan, Quantum

and human health concerns are some of

Colours’ managing director. ‘The walls

New distribution agreement

the drivers of the initiatives to stop

and ceilings are panelled with ISO walling

In March, Quantum Colours was

using microplastics. The demand for

and have coved corners throughout to

appointed the exclusive distributor

environment friendly glitter started

30

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

COLOUR COSMETICS GEARING UP FOR GLOBAL GROWTH QUANTUM COLOURS WILL be exhibiting at CPhI Worldwide in Frankfurt, Germany, taking place from 5 to 7 November. The company hopes to market its highly successful Pharmaspec HPPV, FCPV, FCHP, FC (Protect) and FCEN (A, B and C) branded tablet coating range. Quantum Colours will also use the exhibition as a platform to find a strategic business partner for the US and Brazilian markets.

Guests of Quantum Colours and employees at the company’s 16th anniversary celebration

last year and is anticipated to grow as the nature of ingredients in consumer products becomes more important. Although PET glitter contributes only a small amount to water pollution worldwide, it’s relatively easy to avoid and there are environmentally friendly alternatives available on the market.

Because of consumers’ concerns about microplastics, the industry is looking for alternatives to traditional polyester based flakes, or Polyethylene Terephthalate. While biodegradable glitter tends to have limitations mainly due to stability issues, coarse pearlescent pigments based on glass flakes (Calcium Sodium Borosilicate) and synthetic mica (Synthetic Fluorphlogopite) don’t have any shortcomings.

Coarse pearlescent pigments, particularly those with a narrow particle size distribution, represent the next generation of products to create glittering effects in consumer products. To meet market demands, Geotech has compiled a presentation on PET free glittering effects using alternative raw materials, which provide an outstanding sparkling reflection of light. This selection of Geopearl and Geodiamond special effect pigments offer sophisticated glittering effects without the negative impact on the environment. The products are approved for use in cosmetics without restrictions and are said to be even more stable than traditional PET based glitter. Flakes with particle sizes up to 1 000μm are included in the portfolio.•

Makina Chengetai of Quantum Colours pictured alongside the company’s new ribbon blender with built-in refiner

Geotech – www.geotech.nl/en Quantum Colours – www.quantumcolours.com

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

31

COLOUR COSMETICS

A journey through colour The Care Co. takes care of all your colour requirements from start to finish.

Iron oxides are naturally occurring mineral deposits.

When used in cosmetics, the deposits are synthetically

IN THE BEGINNING

enhanced to remove any impurities.

Pigments were originally derived from the earth and animals.

Mica is a shiny silicate mineral, found in granite and other rocks in minute amounts.

EVOLUTION TO SYNTHETIC COLOUR

Glitter is an aluminium foil, which creates a bright shimmering reflective light.

Fluorescents contain substances that respond to UV, creating a bright and glowing effect by reflecting and absorbing light.

Biodegradable glitter is produced from wood pulp, making it a natural and renewable resource. It is vegan, PET and heavy metal free, does not contain any allergens and isn’t tested on animals.

TODAY'S WORLD OF COLOUR COSMETICS

Natural colours are in high demand with the trend towards transparency and the greater sustainability movement. These pigments are environmentally friendly, sustainable, animal

evolution in fluorescents.

friendly, hypo-allogenic and

32

Fluorphlogopite and lake colours are the result of an These intense chroma

they offer the promise of

colours offer bold effects in

reduced toxicity.

colour cosmetics.

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

COLOUR COSMETICS

Inorganic pigments are compounds obtained from inorganic metallic compounds

Organic pigments are

and salts, such as chromate

made up of carbon rings and

sulphate and metallic oxides.

chains and differ in particle

They are often used in foundation products to create different shades.

size, brightness and colour.

Chemical compounds such as lakes are often used to stabilise organic pigments in lipsticks and

Pearlescent pigments or effect

eyeshadow formulations.

pigments are titanium dioxide and mica based powders that create eye catching effects, from a subtle shimmer to a sparkling diamond effect, in makeup products. Spectraflex is a titanium dioxide coated alumina that diminishes the look of fine lines and imperfections using light

Bulk nail polish is created using a wide pallet of pigment based colouring solutions consisting of organic and inorganic pigments.

diffusing technology. Intenza pigments are A dispersion process

fierce and vivid colours with a luminescent

converts a raw pigment into a ready

pearl effect and excellent light and colour

to use form. This process consists of

stability. These pigments have a high purity

wetting, grinding and stabilisation.

content and are free of additives

Using dispersions alleviates the need

and preservatives.

for grinding, resulting in reduced handling and a more stable and consistent pigment. Different types of dispersions include castor oil and synthetic and natural waxes.

A dye is a chemical that shows colour when dissolved. It is easy

Treated pigments are

to disperse and often used in liquid

used to achieve various

soaps. Dyes can be both oil and

desired characteristics, by

water soluble. Hair dyes include

uplifting the functional and

permanent, semi-permanent,

physical appearance of an

temporary and thermo colours

end product. Alumina and silane are examples of surface treated pigments, which deliver an anti-caking effect.

Makeup applications such as lipstick, highlighters,

created using a blend of natural

gel eyeliner and bb creams are

and synthetic pigments to achieve

created using a broad

desired shades.

range of organic, inorganic and effect pigments.

The Care Co. – www.careco.co.za

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

33

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

How to compile a Product Information File In accordance with Regulation 6(1), a PIF should be compiled for each cosmetics product manufactured. The PIF must include all of the necessary particulars relating to the identity, quality, safety to human health and the effects claimed for the product. By Anina van der Walt of

T

Lumen Regulatory Solutions he cosmetics industry is well aware of the draft regulations of the South African Foodstuffs, Cosmetics and Disinfectants Act,

1972 (Act no. 54 of 1972), relating to the Labelling, Advertising, and Composition of Cosmetics, R. 1469.

The draft regulations were published in August 2016 and again redrafted for industry comment in December 2017.

The process to compile a PIF should not cause trepidation, although it currently does

3. The Product Composition (and Manufacturing Method) section should include qualitative and quantitative formulation information. This includes the trade name, INCI name, function and percentage of the ingredients used.

This is also a relevant section to indicate the ingredients included in the product comply with legislative requirements

Regulation 6(1) states ‘…The Responsible

PIF structure explained

where restrictions or permitted use

Person, prior to placing a cosmetic

For illustrative purposes, a PIF should

apply. The manufacturing method of the

product on the South African market and

contain the following sections and data.

product and process description should

for control purposes, must keep a Product

1. It is advised the section on

Information File (PIF) for each cosmetic…’.

Since local cosmetics legislative

4. For packaging (specifications)

contain all the relevant basic

and labelling it is important to note

promulgation did not occur and

company information, such as a

enforcement rules are not yet

contact person, physical address and

recognised, product owners are either

also be noted.

administrative information should

contact details, including:

the following: • packaging type identification (pump, spray, tube or jar etc.)

cautiously starting to collect information,

• product owner

• pack size specification

or they’re unsure of where to start.

• responsible person (RP)

• type of packaging, primary packaging

The latter is a ‘buried head in the

• manufacturer and the manufacturer

sand approach’ in the hope a PIF will

statement of relevant GMP compliance

neither be required nor requested by a

• market distributor (where applicable)

regulatory authority.

• importer (where applicable).

2. Even though some of the product

material specification and composition, including technical substances • identification of technically unavoidable impurities • information about the packaging

Don't fear the PIF

information included in the Product

The process to compile a PIF should not

General Information section may

• for primary packaging, it is beneficial

cause trepidation, although it currently

seem obvious to the brand owner,

to provide a ‘Food or Pharma Grade’

does. A review of the legislative aspects

the PIF should also be structurally

followed in various other countries reveals

set out to assist with either a product

or applicable.

the process to compile a PIF should be

evaluation or the safety assessment,

5. The physico-chemical and

clearly structured and planned.

as required. The following information

microbiological specifications of

may be included:

raw materials are important. The

The idea is not to reproduce another technical document using all and

• target population (healthy women,

sometimes irrelevant information. PIF

men, adults, children, shaving adults,

objectives are to identify the cosmetics

middle aged woman etc.)

product, determine the quality, establish

• intended use and general purpose

material (SDS, TDS and COA)

statement where available

information in the raw material or ingredient specification section should typically include: • identification of nano materials

safety to human health and the effects

(body lotion, face cream, or

where applicable

claimed for it to create a dossier

shampoo etc.)

• physico-chemical

applicable to a specific product and formulation type.

The PIF should contain data and information in a format that is practical to maintain throughout the product lifecycle (and after). It should be compiled in such a way that it’s easily reviewed by an evaluator.

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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

• main action (e.g. cleansing, antiwrinkle, or depilating) • formulation type (an emulsion, cream, butter or oil etc.)

• the type of exposure (Leave-on or rinse-off) • foreseeable application area (body, face, or hands etc.).

ingredient specifications • supplier information including the Safety Data Sheet (SDS), Certificate of Analysis (COA) and IFRA certificate (where applicable) • microbiological specification of the raw materials supplied by the manufacturer of the raws

REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING

• carcinogenic, mutagenic and Reprotoxic (CMR) information

• impurities and trace information about the packaging material

• identification of raw material impurities.

• intended use of the product

6. Finished product specifications are dependent

• exposure to the cosmetics product

on product type and may include colour, odour,

• exposure to the substances

appearance, pH, water content, viscosity and density/SG

• toxicological profile of the substances

etc. The following information should be included in

• undesirable and serious undesirable effects

this section: 6.1 Finished product stability based on stability testing

• other information such as label claims, warnings and instructions for use

procedures representative of the transport and storage

• assessment conclusion

conditions to which final products will be subjected after

• the assessor’s credentials and approval.

manufacturing, during distribution and storage and

10.Undesirable effects on human health as per Regulation 4 (4)

when purchased and used by the consumer. Stability test

Safety Cosmetic Product Safety Report, the Undesirable Effects

protocol design depends on product type, ingredient/

(UE) and Serious Undesirable Effects (SUE) should be recorded in

final product properties and packaging material. Product

the section on post marketing surveillance. Standard Operating

stability must include the physico-chemical parameter

Procedures are recommended for a Complaint Management

assessments (accelerated, normal conditions and cyclic

System and data collection, data analysis and reporting.

temperature stress tests), packaging compatibility and

When sections one to 10 are set out and maintained, a well-

microbial assessments. Stability assessments should

planned R&D project will ensure the appropriate and relevant

include calculations and/or an estimation of period after

product information required to complete the PIF will be obtained.

opening (PAO) or date of minimum durability (DOMD)

Thorough coordination and proper planning are necessary to

and expiry date. Experimental and/or theoretical values

ensure the time and funding required from initial concept to

are applicable. It is also suggested the stability test report

finished product are neither increased nor delayed. •

should conclude to indicate optimal storage conditions.

6.2 Packaging compatibility applies to the primary packaging. If no ‘food grade statement’ is available, a packaging compatibility test should be performed as well

Lumen Regulatory Solutions – anina@lumen.co.za

as a migration test on the finished product in its primary packaging, which will be used by the consumer. Possible interactions between the product and packaging material need to be verified. A package leak test and a visual inspection should be performed to determine possible packaging damage or product contamination.

6.3 Test results and the methods used for microbial quality assessments should be included. Microbial testing using the relevant approved ISO or SANS standard methods should include as a minimum and where applicable: • a preservative efficacy test to ensure system efficacy • total microbial count to determine possible contamination • assessment and identification of moulds and yeast or bacterial organisms – various guidance documents are available for this.

7. Data and information on any animal testing performed either on the final product or the ingredients used in the formulation.

8. The evaluation and testing of a cosmetic formulation's intended purpose is to validate cosmetic label claims. This information should serve as substantiation of claims and the efficacy testing should be performed on the finished product. Include reports of clinical testing and if adverse effects were reported during clinical testing.

9. According to draft legislation, Regulation 4, the Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment and Report (CPSR) must be performed by appropriately trained person, such as a cosmetics product safety assessor. As a minimum, the CPSR should contain the following: • the qualitative and quantitative composition of the physical and chemical characteristics as well as the stability of the product • microbiological quality

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

35

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES

‘Our planet is not recyclable, but the right packaging is’ The third sustainability report released by Alpla provides detailed insights into the company’s development strategy. The report describes the progress of sustainable development from 2016 to 2018, used as a basis for formulating its ambitious objectives for 2019 to 2022. targets can only be achieved with efforts by all regions.’

Alpla has 178 plants in 46 countries. Of these plants, 72 are in house, meaning they are directly part of a customer’s operations.

manufacture 100 percent

This approach reduces

recyclable products by 2025

transport routes and

and will invest €50 million in

carbon emissions. Many implemented their own sustainability projects. The company’s sustainability

A

examples of such projects in

packaging solutions,

India, Brazil and Portugal.

Alpla has had a positive

past three years. Energy consumption

Ambitious objectives

in relation to production volumes has

As an innovation

been reduced by 6.6 percent and

leader, Alpla can

consumption of fresh water regarding

also point to several

material usage, has been cut by

flagship initiatives in

40 percent. The company even

the area of product

sustainability record for the

Chr is toph Hof fman n

of processed post consumer recycled materials should rise to this time.

DID YOU KNOW?

Recycling completes the circuit that starts with

Alpla believes in recycling.

In October 2018, the company signed the New Plastics Economy’s Global Commitment and pledged to achieve ambitious targets. The global commitment is an initiative led by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation together with the United Nations Environment Programme.

exceeded its target for using

development: from bottles

recycled materials.

made entirely of recyclate

‘Demand has risen

and the home compostable coffee

sharply in the reporting

capsule to the Simple One – this is a

period. Alpla has more

HDPE bottle that is up to 60 percent

than 25 years’ experience

lighter than standard bottles.

in recycling, both in the

activities. The volume

25 percent of total material usage by

report outlines successful global specialist in

the expansion of recycling

Linda Mauksch

plants have planned and

As of 2022, the company wants to

manufacture of recyclates

bring at least three innovations to

and processing. That’s

the market each year. It also aims to

why we’re able to offer

reduce its carbon footprint absolutely

our customers functioning solutions

by 10 percent, even with its projected

on both sides,’ emphasises Christoph

annual growth of three percent.

Hoffmann, director of corporate strategy,

‘design for recycling’. This is the key to sustainable packaging solutions, according to Alpla’s executive board.

First online report The full version of

Alpla’s sustainability report is available online for the first time, with printed abridged versions in German, English and Spanish.

The report has been prepared in accordance with sustainability reporting standards and the Global Reporting Initiative. Alpla’s stakeholders – the owner family along with selected employees, customers and suppliers – chose the 10 subject areas covered in the report.

These areas range from innovation

Circular economy a success factor

leadership and safety in the workplace

footprint, albeit not as much as planned.

In 2018, another partnership in Wolfen,

Linda Mauksch, sustainability officer at Alpla

Germany joined the three PET recycling

The company prepared the report with

since 2012, gives an explanation for why

plants in Mexico, Austria and Poland.

the carbon footprint objective could not be

The four sites deliver 70 000t of food

achieved: ‘We experienced more growth

grade PET recyclate per year.

sustainability and circular economy.

The company also reduced its carbon

than expected in countries with carbon intensive electricity production. Global

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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

With its new plastics economy global commitment, Alpla is promising to

to the reduction of carbon emissions. the help of c7-consult, a consultancy firm specialising in sustainability.•

Alpla – www.alpla.com/en

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES

New mark identifies safe, responsible & recyclable PVC Just launched by SAVA, vinyl-dot assures consumers which PVC products ate sustainable, safe and responsible.

V

inyl-dot guarantees the PVC products carrying a quality mark adhere to the Southern African Vinyls Association

(SAVA’s) Product Stewardship Commitment (PSC). The PSC ensures the products are lead free, recyclable and only use additives approved for high human contact applications.

‘Vinyl is an incredibly versatile product and is used in a wide variety of industries and products, ranging from school shoes, gum boots, raincoats and umbrellas to healthcare products that save lives including IV bags, blood bags, tubing, oxygen masks, bed covers, flooring,

DID YOU KNOW?

Vinyl-dot is an important differentiator between SAVA members and non-members or so-called ‘free riders’. Because SAVA is a Producer Responsibility Organisation, its members automatically subscribe to the Industry Waste Management Plan.

blister packs and inflatable splints.

Yet PVC is frequently criticised for

‘Although the vinyl-dot is awarded free of charge, it has

have already been granted the rights to display the logo on their products,

posing potential health risks and

to be renewed annually. It is only issued

websites and other marketing material.

being a difficult to recycle plastic,’

once the SAVA executive has confirmed

These include raw material suppliers,

says Adri Spangenberg, SAVA’s chief

the member specifies sustainable

converters and importers of vinyl

executive officer.

manufacturing, uses additives

products sold on the local market.

responsibly and sustainably, subscribes

‘We hope this mark will be used as a

A localised solution

to a closed loop management system

highly visual and instantly recognisable

To counter these attacks, SAVA’s vinyl-

and is committed to recycling and

sign of excellence, which proves vinyl

dot has been developed specifically for

sustainability awareness in line with our

products can be safe, responsible

the South African market. This quality

PSC,’ explains Spangenberg.

and sustainable. We encourage the

guarantee is awarded exclusively to

public to buy PVC wisely. Buy vinyl,’

members who are able to prove their

A sign of excellence

products meet international safety and

Since launching the vinyl-dot at its AGM

quality standards.

in April, more than 21 SAVA members

she concludes.

For more information about SAVA and the vinyl-dot, visit www.savinyls.co.za. •

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

37

SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES

Sustainable sheet masks With consumers looking for more transparency from the beauty industry and ethical products, Lessonia has improved its sheet masks and packaging to answer to these needs.

The result is a new sheet mask with a low environmental footprint.

an alternative, the private label sheet mask manufacturer offers a sachet without aluminium foil. This halves the carbon footprint of the materials needed to manufacture sachets. Lessonia saves 50t of CO 2 equivalent when producing 10 million masks. It also guarantees efficiency to protect product while reducing environmental impact.

Natural materials for sheet masks Lessonia has taken its sustainable innovation to the next level removing the polypropylene support

A

used to facilitate the lthough sheet masks are

unfolding of sheet

an exceptionally popular

masks. This saves 15t

pampering treat, they are

of polypropylene for

probably one of the least

every 10 million

sustainable elements a beauty routine.

Perceptive of their environmental

masks produced.

The company also

impact, Lessonia has harnessed its

proposes specific

technical expertise to reduce the

natural materials,

ecological footprint of sheet masks.

such as a bio non-woven to reduce the

Lessonia saves 50t of CO2 equivalent when producing 10 million masks

environmental impact of sheet masks.

In line with this, Lessonia’s Happy Mask range is certified OEKO-TEX level 1.

The natural serum portfolio for its Happy Mask’s includes bio cosmos organic lotions, which are 100 percent natural and either aqueous or creamy in texture. This is a good way for the

The company has re-engineered

company to propose sustainable and

its packaging and removed the

natural solutions for the different steps

polypropylene support.

of sheet mask development. •

In the sheet masks category, brands

footprint owing to how it’s produced. As

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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

IN JUST THREE easy steps, you could launch a line of sheet masks to complement your skin care brand.

Lessonia can customise sheet masks according to the customer’s specifications and project requirements. The company’s Happy Mask factory is located at its head office in Brittany, France. The two storey factory is 16 000m2 in size. The second floor is dedicated entirely to the impregnation of masks. Lessonia handles all serum development and manufacturing in house, in its certified ISO 22716 factory. It is also equipped to cut masks before serum impregnation, which takes place in its cleanroom.

After impregnation, the masks are filled into sachets or blister packaging using automated machinery and packed into box or displays for shipping. Go to this website, to see Lessonia’s Happy Mask factory in action:

usually use aluminium foil sachet packaging, which has a high ecological

THE HAPPY MASK FACTORY

Lessonia – www.lessonia.com

https://bit.ly/2Of0chi.

PHARMA FOCUS//Biosimilars

Project to automate production of gene therapeutics Optima Pharma has established a partnership with Charité and the Berlin Institute of Health. The objective is to develop an automatic manufacturing process for cell and gene therapeutics.

I

n a pilot project, Optima Pharma and

Yescarta in the European Union

Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin – are

is evidence.

developing a production platform for the

cell and gene therapeutics. A new type of

Experts collaborate to automate

medication, gene therapy paves the way for

The increasing demand for personalised

personalised medicine and is considered

cell and gene therapeutics requires the

promising in the treatment of hereditary and

automation of the manufacturing process.

metabolic diseases, neurodegenerative

The individual manufacturing process is too

disorders and cancer.

time consuming, costly and the quality of

automatic manufacturing and filling of

Cell and gene therapeutics depend on

Although the processing of cells is handled manually at Charité, it will soon be automated with the Optima Pharma production machinery

the cell and gene therapeutics suffers. This is

the patient’s cells. Based on their unique

set to change with process knowledge from

and gene therapeutics, to fast track

nature, these drugs are produced manually,

Charité, technical expertise from Optima

the application procedure and ensure

Pharma and BIH’s financing.

its successful outcome. After internal

The individual manufacturing process is too time consuming, costly and the quality of the cell and gene therapeutics suffers which is very expensive. In an

Optima Pharma is working with Charité

development and construction activities

to develop a production platform based

at Charité, a machine will be installed

on isolator technology. This will allow

and validated, and the corresponding

the manufacturing of biosimilars in an

production permit requested.

automated process, in line with pharma GMP. The production platform offers the

Improved processes safety

prospect of mapping the processes required

According to Optima Pharma, this is the

to manufacture different cell and gene

best set-up to develop an automatic,

therapy products.

modular and closed manufacturing

attempt to discover automated

‘While Charité has extensive

platform based on isolator technology.

and more cost-effective

knowledge in producing therapeutic

Process safety is increased and the risk of

production processes for

medicines, Optima Pharma contributes

loss of the patient’s individual product is

biosimilars, the Berlin Institute

expertise in process technology and

significantly minimised. These outcomes

of Health (BIH) has funded this

automation,’ comments Dr

are guaranteed by the automatic

innovative project.

Andrea Traube, director

decontamination of all work areas. All

of market development

process steps are documented during

pharma at Optima Pharma.

the entire manufacturing process.

‘A new era is dawning in the

Profes sor Dr Lar s Bu llinger

treatment of dread diseases and gene defects,’ says Professor Dr

In addition to the funding from

Lars Bullinger, director of the Medical Clinic

BIH, the project is supported by

at the campus Virchow-Clinic of Charité. Dr

Berlin Health Innovations – a joint

Lars specialises in haematology, oncology

technology transfer of BIH

and tumour immunology. He is convinced

and Charité.

cell and gene therapy will provide important contributions for the treatment of incurable diseases.

The registration of new gene therapy medications Kymriah and

Human interference is also limited to a minimum to protect the product and Dr Andrea Tra ube

The objective of this project is to speed up the process of clinical projects in cell

minimise the risk to the patient.

Besides Charité, this machine solution would be relevant to large clinics, research institutes, pharma contract manufacturers, laboratories, start-ups and large multinationals.

‘There is tremendous demand for automated production platforms for cell and gene therapeutics,’ Dr Traube concludes. •

A first rendering shows how the Optima production machine for cell and gene therapeutics might look

Optima Pharma – www.optima-packaging.com/en

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

39

PHARMA FOCUS//Biosimilars

Werum’s new system updates and mobile interface PAS-X innovations facilitate easier, more secure and efficient production processes in pharma and biotech factories. Werum has just introduced new features for its PAS-X MES system, including biometric authentication, detailed scheduling and mobile execution.

The improved usability allows for increased performance, stable operation and safety Easier mobile operation PAS-X is increasingly being used on mobile terminals on the factory floor.

For this reason, Werum has optimised the use of its MES software on hand-held scanners and tablets. For instance, this allows tablet users to benefit from an

ser based Weru m’s PAS-X MES new brow desig ned for ly ifical spec is face inter user inals operation on hand -held term

W

erum IT Solutions has added various innovations to its leading PAS-X manufacturing execution

improved touch operation.

PAS-X now has a new browser based user interface specifically designed for

A high quality pharma solution

operation on hand-held terminals, which supports current hardware and software platforms. In industrial environments, the improved usability

Werum IT Solutions is a leading global

system (MES) for the pharma and biotech

supplier of MES and manufacturing

industries, providing advanced user

IT solutions for the pharma and

options and better performance. The

biopharmaceutical industries. Its

innovations include biometric alternatives

PAS-X software product is utilised by the

to the usual authentication process,

majority of the world’s top 30 pharma

an integrated solution for detailed

and biotech companies as well as by

scheduling and optimised operation on

many mid-sized manufacturers. The

mobile terminals.

company has more than 1 000 PAS-X

allows for increased performance, stable operation and safety.

‘We are continually enhancing PAS-X. On the one hand, we aim to address new production processes, regulations and customer requirements in an optimal way.

On the other, it is our goal to stimulate innovation and quickly pave the way for the pharma industry’s digital factory

MES installations around the globe.

of the future,’ says Robert Welter, senior

Biometric authentication

head of PAS-X product management,

The current process requires entering a username and password, pin code or ID, which is time-consuming. With K.Me-

Werum IT Solutions.

New scheduling solution

PAS-X is strictly developed

By integrating a detailed

according to legal requirements

In, Werum now offers a fresh biometric

scheduling solution based on

such as FDA 21 CFR Part 211

authentication product to simplify login

sedApta’s Factory Scheduler,

and Part 11, EU GMP and GAMP

and signing in processes. In the future,

Werum has further enhanced the

5 guidelines. By implementing

various user-specific biometric parameters

functionality of the system.

Werum’s MES software product

such as fingerprint, iris, face recognition or a combination of those will be used.

PAS-X logs off the user automatically

Through PAS-X, this scheduling solution can directly access all

Robert Welter

necessary data, such as master

in manufacturing processes, pharma companies benefit from high quality and significant cost

when they leave the application,

data, MBRs or order data for the

savings. In most cases, Werum believes

which is an important aspect to ensure

shop floor.

the return on investment is realised within

data integrity. Werum’s new biometric

PAS-X provides the data in real time

authentication product also allows

and with a higher quality than any other

quicker authentication for users on the

ERP on the market. As a result, there is no

shop floor so they can concentrate on

more need for an interface between the

their main tasks at hand.

scheduling solution and the ERP.

40

| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

two or three years. •

Werum IT Solutions – www.werum.com/en

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

Half truths demystified on silicones, parabens and mineral oil At the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) Afternoon Lecture on 9 May, Jacques Strydom of ChemSystems set the record straight on misinformation by bloggers, on silicones, parabens and mineral oil. The lecture was hosted at Evonik South Africa, based in Midrand, Gauteng.

T

he rise of the internet and social media has made it possible for consumers to have a wealth of information and opinion

available at their fingertips. This, like most technological advancements, has its pros and cons.

We can communicate ideas faster and on a much larger scale, but this also means misinformation and fearmongering can spread at a rate.

Coschem vice presid ent, Kim MacCall um (Vantag e Speciality Ing red ients); Coschem presid ent, Rene Spad a (Evon ik South Afr ica) and Ja cq ues Str ydom (C he mS ystem s)

This allows for cyber groupthink, where like-minded individuals reiterate misinformation, changing consumer perception and forcing manufacturers and brand owners to redesign accordingly, often ignoring scientific fact.

Chemicals under siege

environments, especially in South Africa

systemically toxic. Yet studies have

and the rest of sub-Saharan Africa.

confirmed refined pharma grades of

Silicones, mineral oil and parabens

mineral oil used in personal care do

in the personal care industry are

The science of silicones

not pose a risk to human health, as the

three examples of ingredients that

In the personal care industry, silicones

molecules cannot penetrate far enough

have perhaps fallen victim to this

are among the most misunderstood

into the skin to become systemically

phenomenon. With the natural and

ingredients, most likely due to their

available. It has also been concluded

organic trend, anything synthetically

affiliation with other types of silicones

that mineral oil is not comedogenic to

produced, petro-chemically related or

used in industrial applications, for

most skin types.

really any ingredient that sounds like a

instance silicone sealants.

chemical, is treated with irrational fear and avoided at all cost.

Studies have confirmed refined pharma grades of mineral oil used in personal care do not pose a risk to human health

Bloggers refer to these ingredients as

Parabens on the other hand only became a topic of concern after a

‘rubbery’ and ‘plasticky’, leading their

single questionable study connected

audiences to believe silicones cover

these ingredients to breast cancer. The

the skin in an occlusive, comedogenic,

study was flawed and heavily securitised

allergenic layer, which promotes

by the scientific community until finally

bacterial growth and irritation.

20 parabens were cleared for use in

In reality, silicones are one of the most researched chemistries, with over 1 000 studies carried out by producers

personal care products at recommended dosages by the CIR panel of experts.

After more than 100 years of safe use,

to assess the safety of silicones for their

parabens are still some of the safest

workers, consumers, the environment

and most effective preservatives,

and manufacturing processes. All of

but the damage has been done

attention to what they buy and what

the abovementioned claims by beauty

and it will be hard to convince the

goes into their personal care products,

bloggers have been proven false in these

consumer otherwise. •

but at the same time it poses the danger

studies, with only a handful of silicones

for consumer opinion to prevail over

still under scientific scrutiny.

It’s great to see consumers are paying

scientific fact. A safe preservation system, such as a blend of parabens, gets

Mineral oil and parabens

replaced by a fragile cocktail of natural

Because of its petrochemical origin,

ingredients that isn’t robust enough for

mineral oil is frowned upon and

most formulations and manufacturing

considered comedogenic and

Coschem regularly hosts networking, social and educational events. Send an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za for more information.

P C Review | AUGUST 2019 |

41

Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN

Mini Crossword

Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

+27 (0)71 438 1918

Daleen Filbey Sales executive

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

+27 (0)83 409 3119

06 Agencies SA........................................22.........www.o6southafrica.com Bragan Chemicals...................................23.........www.braganchemicals.co.za CJP Chemicals........................................ 12.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Clomark...................................................20.........www.clomark.com CLR Chemisches Laboratorium .............. IFC.........www.clr-berlin.com Courage + Khazaka electronic ................35.........www.courage-khazaka.de Crest Chemicals ..................................... 18.........www.crestchem.co.za CTFA..........................................................9.........www.ctfa.co.za Extrupet.....................................................5.........www.hur.com IMCD SA .................................................29.........www.koelcolours.com ISW Shrink...............................................38.........www.iswshrink.co.za

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| AUGUST 2019 | P C Review

ACROSS 1. Omen 5. Fall apart 6. Rising air current 7. Delete DOWN 1. Image 2. Gather livestock together 3. Make plain and comprehensible 4. Supporting tower

Maccallum .............................................. 15.........www.maccallum.co.za Merck......................................................27.........www.merck.co.za Millchem .................................................24.........www.millchem.co.za Omron Electronics ....................................8.........www.industrial.omron.co.za Quantum Colours SA ...............................31.........www.quantumcolours.com Savannah Fine Chemicals................OFC, 13.........www.savannah.co.za Sensetek ................................................. 14.........www.sensetek.co.za South African Vinyls Association..............37.........www.savinyls.co.za The Care Co....................................... 21, 33.........www.careco.co.za Vantage Speciality Chemicals ................. 19.........www.vantagegrp.com Wacker Chemicals...................................25.........www.wacker.com/personalcare

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the

Tel: 010 595 9690

cosmetics and toiletries industries.

Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,

analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage,

plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.

Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

The largest independent producer in the world of

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

www.brb-international.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa

trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

www.quantumcolours.com