MALE GROOMING
Men’s grooming meets sustainability As we move further into the 21st century, themes of inclusivity and sustainability are emphasised more and more. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals, discusses how to address these themes in the men’s grooming segment.
care launches targeting men have
S
other textures have made an appearance
increased globally by more than 70%,
on the men’s grooming scene. For
according to Mintel. Similarly, GlobalData,
example, Reuzel Beard Foam, produced
as an easy-to-use powder, which when
which surveyed European men for its 2019
in the Netherlands, is a leave-on beard
dispersed in water, forms a natural film that
Q3 global consumer survey, concluded
conditioner designed to tame, deodorise,
is comparable in performance to synthetic
that 20% of the men completely or
reduce itchiness and eliminate ‘beardruff’
film formers with the added benefit of
somewhat agree that they are willing to
and split ends, all while soothing and
being non-hygroscopic.
increase the number of products they
conditioning the beard and skin.
ince 2012, beauty and personal
Oils, waxes, serums, foams and many
of natural origin, according to the ISO 16128 standard. Derived from corn, the fixative is supplied
When compared to PVP, the workhorse of the hair-styling industry, MaizeCare
use to improve their appearance. This increased to 30% in Poland, 29% in Italy
Naturally derived hair fixative
delivers comparable stiffness, superior
and 27% in Portugal.
Dow recently launched its 2020 TrendsLab
humidity resistance and, as a result, better
with a clear focus on inclusivity and
curl retention.
Men’s grooming routines have also become more sophisticated, with men
sustainability. Included in this campaign
experimenting with a wider variety of
is the newly launched bio-based hair
MaizeCare in action
grooming products and some even trying
fixative, MaizeCare style polymer, which
As part of the TrendsLab launch,
makeup. Beard care in particular has
stands out in applications for the men’s
MaizeCare style polymer was included
been on the rise and is often fused with
grooming category. This fixative delivers
in a two-in-one hair and beard balm
skin care, taking care of the skin beneath
soft to stiff styling performance together
formulation called Gentlehype (see
the beard and not just the beard itself.
with high humidity resistance and is 100%
Table 1). The formulation also features Ucon Fluid AP, which is a high spreadability
Table 1: Gentlehype hair and beard balm (CPF 4295)
emollient that enhances conditioning
Phase
Ingredients
INCI
% Wt
A
Water
Aqua
59.43
MaizeCare Style Polymer
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
3.00
with a combination of Aculyn 33A and
Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine
0.20
Aculyn 88 rheology modifiers, which
Water
Aqua
Aculyn 88 Rheology Modifier
Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
0.50
Aculyn 33A Rheology Modifier
Acrylates Copolymer
1.50
Rheodol MS-165V
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate
4.00
Cropure Sweet Almond Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (sweet almond) Oil
1.00
Crodamol OSU
Diethylhexyl Succinate
5.00
polymer. Using a Dia-Stron to measure
Kalcol 220-80
Behenyl Alcohol
3.00
hair friction, it was found that Gentlehype
Emanon CH-40
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
0.50
Ucon Fluid AP
PPG-14 Butyl Ether
0.50
Euxyl PE 9010
Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
0.99
Triethanolamine
Triethanolamine
0.10
Hydra Men E_18C4276
Perfume
0.28
B
C
D
20.00
This two-in-one styling cream gives a flexible, natural look and light to medium hold. It also provides conditioning and taming benefits as well as improved shine
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| JUNE 2020 | P C Review
and shine with a smooth after-feel. The rheology and texture are formed mostly
thicken the product, giving it good suspending capabilities and provide a rich, smooth and non-greasy feel. When put to the test, the product exhibited superior curl retention and humidity resistance compared to a control formulation without MaizeCare style
provided a lower coefficient of friction than both the control and the benchmark, thanks to Ucon Fluid AP. •
AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com