Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2020

Page 46

MALE GROOMING

Men’s grooming meets sustainability As we move further into the 21st century, themes of inclusivity and sustainability are emphasised more and more. Jacques Strydom, technical manager at AECI Specialty Chemicals, discusses how to address these themes in the men’s grooming segment.

care launches targeting men have

S

other textures have made an appearance

increased globally by more than 70%,

on the men’s grooming scene. For

according to Mintel. Similarly, GlobalData,

example, Reuzel Beard Foam, produced

as an easy-to-use powder, which when

which surveyed European men for its 2019

in the Netherlands, is a leave-on beard

dispersed in water, forms a natural film that

Q3 global consumer survey, concluded

conditioner designed to tame, deodorise,

is comparable in performance to synthetic

that 20% of the men completely or

reduce itchiness and eliminate ‘beardruff’

film formers with the added benefit of

somewhat agree that they are willing to

and split ends, all while soothing and

being non-hygroscopic.

increase the number of products they

conditioning the beard and skin.

ince 2012, beauty and personal

Oils, waxes, serums, foams and many

of natural origin, according to the ISO 16128 standard. Derived from corn, the fixative is supplied

When compared to PVP, the workhorse of the hair-styling industry, MaizeCare

use to improve their appearance. This increased to 30% in Poland, 29% in Italy

Naturally derived hair fixative

delivers comparable stiffness, superior

and 27% in Portugal.

Dow recently launched its 2020 TrendsLab

humidity resistance and, as a result, better

with a clear focus on inclusivity and

curl retention.

Men’s grooming routines have also become more sophisticated, with men

sustainability. Included in this campaign

experimenting with a wider variety of

is the newly launched bio-based hair

MaizeCare in action

grooming products and some even trying

fixative, MaizeCare style polymer, which

As part of the TrendsLab launch,

makeup. Beard care in particular has

stands out in applications for the men’s

MaizeCare style polymer was included

been on the rise and is often fused with

grooming category. This fixative delivers

in a two-in-one hair and beard balm

skin care, taking care of the skin beneath

soft to stiff styling performance together

formulation called Gentlehype (see

the beard and not just the beard itself.

with high humidity resistance and is 100%

Table 1). The formulation also features Ucon Fluid AP, which is a high spreadability

Table 1: Gentlehype hair and beard balm (CPF 4295)

emollient that enhances conditioning

Phase

Ingredients

INCI

% Wt

A

Water

Aqua

59.43

MaizeCare Style Polymer

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

3.00

with a combination of Aculyn 33A and

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine

0.20

Aculyn 88 rheology modifiers, which

Water

Aqua

Aculyn 88 Rheology Modifier

Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

0.50

Aculyn 33A Rheology Modifier

Acrylates Copolymer

1.50

Rheodol MS-165V

Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate

4.00

Cropure Sweet Almond Oil

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (sweet almond) Oil

1.00

Crodamol OSU

Diethylhexyl Succinate

5.00

polymer. Using a Dia-Stron to measure

Kalcol 220-80

Behenyl Alcohol

3.00

hair friction, it was found that Gentlehype

Emanon CH-40

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

0.50

Ucon Fluid AP

PPG-14 Butyl Ether

0.50

Euxyl PE 9010

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

0.99

Triethanolamine

Triethanolamine

0.10

Hydra Men E_18C4276

Perfume

0.28

B

C

D

20.00

This two-in-one styling cream gives a flexible, natural look and light to medium hold. It also provides conditioning and taming benefits as well as improved shine

46

| JUNE 2020 | P C Review

and shine with a smooth after-feel. The rheology and texture are formed mostly

thicken the product, giving it good suspending capabilities and provide a rich, smooth and non-greasy feel. When put to the test, the product exhibited superior curl retention and humidity resistance compared to a control formulation without MaizeCare style

provided a lower coefficient of friction than both the control and the benchmark, thanks to Ucon Fluid AP. •

AECI Specialty Chemicals – jacques.strydom@aeciworld.com Dow – www.dow.com


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