PERSONAL CARE
Consumer trends and regulatory compliance With the hype around the change in consumers’ post-pandemic shopping behaviour, many industries have had to reimagine and evolve their product offering, product claims, marketing platforms and distribution channels. The personal care industry is one that is particularly affected by consumer demand for rapid innovations, product efficacy and convenience, which all contribute to a holistic shopping experience. Dershana Jackison, CTFA’s head of policy and regulatory affairs, explores how to remain complaint within the changing personal care landscape.
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ome of the trends we have seen internationally are quickly becoming global and trending in South Africa too. In recent years we have seen an obvious and huge shift towards digital technology with consumers migrating to the convenience this offers. McKinsey and Company reported that “omnichannel customers shop 1.7 times more than single-channel shoppers” (March 2022) and that in-store customers will evolve to using the various channels and touchpoints that a brand or a retailer has to offer. This clearly indicates that the customer’s needs are evolving and will continue to evolve. So, a seamless connectivity between the available channels is paramount to the shopping experience. Customers also expect to have visibility of store items before they visit the store or shop online and expect quick and easy pick-up of their ordered products. Though this is an example of brands and retailers investing in their retail strategy, there are other trends that will require regulatory considerations. COVID-19 has accelerated certain aspects already in development, such as consumers’ expectation to access product information and reviews whilst in store or browsing online. For example, a QR code is provided so that it can be scanned to access layers of online content. Though this clearly creates a new opportunity for brand owners they must continue to comply with all self-regulatory guidelines that apply to labelling, claims and advertising when using digital platforms. Ingredient transparency is key, coupled with truthful and appropriate product claims and advertising. The CTFA Cosmetic Compendium
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includes updated ingredient annexes to help you stay compliant, while standards provide best practice for various product categories and testing of products. The advertising code of practice provides insight into permissible advertising and claims.
DIVERSITY, INCLUSIVITY AND SUSTAINABILITY Consumers expect product variety that speaks to equity and inclusivity and the visibility and position of such products in a retailer’s planogram is key. They are increasingly aware of advertising that respects human rights, is inclusive and promotes equity. Furthermore, brands and retailers that consistently support and contribute to environmental preservation speak to a more environmentallyaware consumer – especially post-COVID. To remain relevant and competitive, suppliers, formulators and manufacturers must rise to these demands and trends. Some fragrance houses are developing unisex fragrances to promote gender equality, whilst others are developing products that meet the needs of a multiracial spectrum of consumers to address diversity and inclusivity. Yet, addressing such trends comes with a fair number of challenges in terms of ingredient choice and formulation design. There is a growing need for natural and organic ingredients that are sustainably sourced, resulting in suppliers looking to expand their product portfolio. The Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment issue bioprospecting, access, and benefit sharing
"The CTFA Cosmetic Compendium includes updated ingredient annexes to help you stay compliant, while standards provide best practice for various product categories and testing of products" (BABS) permits to such suppliers to protect communities, resources and biodiversity. To address the demand for “clean beauty”, brands include ingredient claims and claims such as “natural” or “organic” on product labels. These claims must be truthful and scientifically substantiated.
IMPLICATIONS OF INGREDIENT TRENDS AND RESTRICTIONS Suppliers are also exploring alternatives to harmful ingredients being targeted by regulators globally, as signatories to the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals. Locally, the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment has published several regulations identifying chemicals that are considered harmful to the environment, which are aligned with current restrictions in the guidelines for the industry. This guideline is the CTFA Cosmetic Compendium, which aims to proactively inform and prepare industry for local upcoming regulatory changes. It also provides suppliers and formulators with a reasonable period to prepare for and comply with imminent ingredient bans or restrictions. These regulatory amendments, together with consumer demands and product trends, require formulators to go back to the drawing board to redesign products with alternative and/or “greener” ingredients. Product
