Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review November/December 2019

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 11

www.pharmacos.co.za

Luxurious . Parisian . Iconic INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION Discover new beauty breakthroughs

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Keep it clean and safe with proven solutions

FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

Scent strategies to differentiate brands

Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

November/December 2019 | Volume 46 | Number 11

w w w.pharmacos.co. za

6 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

The 2019 winner is revealed!

8 NEWS

Alpla consolidates pharma packaging expertise

Frost & Sullivan award for Werum

Coschem promotes career options to students

11 PRODUCT NEWS

What’s new in South Africa

30 Strategic innovation &

sustainable ingredients 40 PHARMA FOCUS: ASEPTIC PROCESSING

Marchesini invests €7 million in Corima factory

Quality technology for superior containment

14 EVENTS

Puregas Partnership Awards celebrate change

SA to host organic and natural expo

16 FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

Symrise launches de Laire Beauty Care

A perfect scent clarified by Payan Bertrand

New signature EDT collection from Playboy

Fragrance Boutique partners with Foschini

42 SAFETY & HYGIENE

Rentokil discusses good hand hygiene

The quality link between a product and its packaging

How to maintain the sterile boundary

Select the right floor for the job

Achieve efficient flow with insulated impact doors

24 GLASS PACKAGING

24

Choose pharma glass to package medicines

26 INGREDIENT &

FORMULATION INNOVATION

New natural active moisturiser from Provital Group

Paradise nut oil offers a distinctive edge

Sustainable ingredients from Hexachem

Introducing the revitalised Ladine Professional Care

Afriplex launches new functional ingredients

Enhance body clock rhythms with Chrono Chardy

Pharmaceutical compliance guaranteed 49 ASSOCIATION NEWS

Highlights from the AMA golf day

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

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SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW

From the editor

THE TEAM EDITORIAL

Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Joachim Zipp, Marie-Eugenie Bouge, Rafael Bernad, Siham Bouhrir ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za

Let trust, openness and respect overflow

E

xperts say the most important

Laire Beauty Care launch, Payan Bertrand’s

building block to develop an

take on what makes a perfect scent and

effective team is communication,

Fragrance Boutique’s new partnership with

along with trust, openness and

Foschini are featured in this section on

respect. These building blocks are just as relevant in new product development

fragrances and essential oils.

In our safety and hygiene feature on page

because the innovation process requires

42, Rentokil weights up the pros and cons

considerable amounts of these traits as well

of wearing gloves as a principle of good

as communication.

hand hygiene. Wika Instruments discusses

Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION

This is also highly evident in the judging

how to maintain the sterile boundary during

of the New Product Competition, where our

pharma production processes. Polyflor helps

judges delve into the innovation process

you select the right flooring for your needs

of all the entries. The winner is always that

while Apex Strip Curtains & Doors assists with

PUBLISHING TEAM

one brand where trust, openness, respect

improving flow in high traffic areas.

General Manager: Dev Naidoo

and communication overflow in support of

It’s been another exciting year at New

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za

an appetite for risk. This year, Environ was

Media, with everyone on the P C Review

named the overall winner at the New Product

team playing a vital role in the magazine’s

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

Competition awards evening. A full review

success. Without communication and the

Art Director: David Kyslinger

of the event, featuring all the runners up

trust, openness and respect we have for one

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

and award winners is published on page 6.

another – and the unwavering support from

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

In line with the new product development

our advertisers, readers and the industries

theme, our ingredient and formulation

we serve – P C Review wouldn’t be able to

innovation feature on page 26 highlights

thrive in the current economic climate. Thank

a range of new and novel beauty

you, from the team and me. We hope you

Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (PTY) Ltd

breakthroughs. You can read about

have a good break during the festive season.

MANAGEMENT TEAM

Hydrafence, a natural active moisturiser and skin barrier enhancer; paradise nut oil;

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

Stay safe and enjoy the read!

Hexachem’s latest news; the rejuvenation of the South African hair care brand, Ladine;

@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview

fresh functional ingredients from Afriplex; and Chrono Chardy – a natural extract that

@pharmacosreview

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone HEAD OF HR: Camillah West CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson

enhances the skin’s clock genes.

We also explore the bold and enticing

@SApharmacos

world of perfumery on page 16. Symrise’s de

HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmedia.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

4

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.

While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town.

Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Environ named 2019 New Product Competition winner

DID YOU KNOW?

You can check out all the highlights from the event on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook, by searching our dedicated hashtag #BeautyNPC2019.

Environ was crowned the winner of the 2019 Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review/ Symrise New Product Competition on 10 October. This trusted local skin care brand with a strong history of innovation, won the overall award for its Focus Care Radiance+ Range.

T

he awards ceremony took place at The Venue Green Park, in Morningside, Johannesburg. The upscale conference and events establishment is perched on top of Joburg’s exclusive World Trade Centre, offering breath-taking views of the city

and a magical sunset experience. Thanks to the P C Review and Symrise teams, which pulled out all the stops with the planning, the event lived up to guests’ expectations and maintained its status as the ‘Oscars of the cosmetics industry’.

The New Product Competition judges said Environ’s Focus Care Radiance+ range addresses the hot topic of blemished skin, with its promise of even tone benefits. The premium look of the products and clever use of packaging elements show absolute attention to detail while the formulations have been beautifully designed. Judges called the combination of actives and layering ‘very clever’ to obtain maximum efficiency without compromising on the formulations or having the ingredients clash.

Abby Vorster of New Media, Pam Ellwood of Environ and Natalie Da Silva

cosmetic ingredients. In doing so, the company addresses unmet consumer needs, sometimes even before those needs have been

Introducing de Laire beauty care Symrise perfumer, Laurent Le Lorec shared an inviting presentation on fragrance creation and innovation. He discussed Symrise’s de Laire bases – the historic constant that strengthens the company’s

clearly articulated.

Thank you to the sponsor Symrise for continuing to support the New Product Competition and for the company’s involvement in the event.

Congratulations to all the winners. Entries for the 2020 New Product

expertise in innovation – and revealed a new development, named

Competition are open. Please send an e-mail to natalie.dasilva@

de Laire beauty care.

newmedia.co.za for more information or to request an entry form.•

At the intersection of science and art, there is understanding and true innovation ‘We are very glad to announce that de Laire, born in 1876 and a key pillar of Symrise’s DNA, is now available for beauty care in an avantgarde version,’ Le Lorec explained.

Fragrances in beauty care are becoming more and more sophisticated. Addictive, memorable, exclusive, with an intense trail and made from natural extracts – these are some of the criteria consumers want from fragrances used in their premium beauty care products.

‘With de Laire beauty care, revived thanks to the initial work of Pascal Sillon, our senior beauty care perfumer, we can now offer a unique olfactory proposition to clients, which no other fragrance house has,’ Le Lorec added.

Thanks to our sponsor Now in its 12 year, the P C Review/Symrise New Product th

Competition aims to give local and international brands supplied on the South African market the opportunity to showcase their innovative new products. At the intersection of science and art, there is understanding and true innovation. Trend-spotting and consumer insights coupled with its unparalleled innovation capabilities through its Beauty+ programme, allows Symrise to create highly innovative solutions through a meaningful combination of fragrance and

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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

2019 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION RESULTS Overall Winners Winner: Focus Care Radiance+ by Environ First runner up: Nimue Thermal Detox Peel by Ascendis Health Second runner up: Uso 05 Active Day Cream with SPF 30 by African Dermal Science Individual Category Winner: Nimue Thermal Detox Peel by Ascendis Health First runner up: Uso 05 Active Day Cream with SPF 30 by African Dermal Science Second runner up: Nimue Sun-C SPF 50 Environmental Shield by Ascendis Health Range Category Winner: Focus Care Radiance+ by Environ First runner up: Excellence Range by Placecol Second runner up: Delta Medical Skincare by Skin Rejuvenation Technologies Editor’s Choice Award Aroma Butter Bars by SoyLites Packaging Category Winner: Focus Care Radiance+ by Environ First runner up: Delta Medical Skincare by Skin Rejuvenation Technologies Second runner up: Nimue Fader Range by Ascendis Health South African Star Award Rain Skincare by Rain Africa

NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION

Natalie Da Silva, Esna Colyn and Tayle Wrede of Imbalie Beauty, and Rudy MacLean of Symrise

Natalie Da Silva, Nicole Antonie of SoyLites and Abby Vorster

Amit Mudholkar of Symrise, Dr Theo MothoaFrendo of African Dermal Science and Natalie Da Silva

Rudy McLean of Symrise, Delia Greef of Skin Rejuvenation Technologies and Natalie Da Silva

Natalie Da Silva, Shane Franck of Ascendis Health and Marcel van Rooyen of Symrise

Laraine Kruger of BASF, Elizna Hurter of Skin Chem and Bridget MacDonald of Coschem

Pam Ellwood of Environ

Saxophonist Cathy Del Mei and Sapphirah Pala of BASF Keegan Capito, Rudy McLean and Laurent Le Leroc of Symrise

Shane Franck chatting to cosmetics industry veteran and expert, Aubrey Parsons

Anita Raath, Candida Giambo-Kruger, Natalie Da Silva, Abby Vorster and Carla Melless

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

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NEWS

Alpla consolidates its pharmaceuticals expertise THE INTERNATIONAL PLASTIC packaging specialist is combining its expertise and services for customers in the pharma industry, under the ALPLApharma brand name.

With acquisitions in south-eastern Europe and Africa in previous years, Alpla has done more than just strengthen its presence in these regions. Thanks to the new locations, this family run company based in Austria now has access to decades of experience in the packaging market for pharmaceutical products.

This expertise and all services for customers in the pharma industry will now be combined into ALPLApharma, a brand of the group and not a legal entity of its own. Its first major appearance took place at the CPhI trade show in Frankfurt, from 5 to 7 November.

‘ALPLApharma is more than just a marketing strategy to us,’ asserts Walter Knes, global sales director closure systems, injected parts and pharma at Alpla.

‘We are consolidating all our previous work for pharmaceutical customers under this brand. In doing so, we are combining the specific expertise available to us through our new locations with all of our services, knowledge and globally applicable standards.’

The group was previously known mainly for its customised packaging solutions. ‘In the pharma industry, however, standardised products play a large role,’ explains Knes.

The current product portfolio ranges from bottles for liquids and solids and containers for tablets and pills to closures and dispensing systems – especially eyedroppers and nasal sprays – as well as devices for administering medication with and without measuring function. Alpla is hoping to excel in this market just as much with custom-made designs.

Third automatic line installed at Lessonia THE NEW SHEET mask line allows the manufacturer to increase its production capacity of 8 million sheet masks, 48 million sheet masks per year.

In 2018, Lessonia inaugurated its second production facility dedicated to packaging cosmetics products. Today, the two automatic lines and five semi-automatic lines operate at full capacity. To continue to increase its production capacity, the company has made a substantial investment a third automatic line.

With immense experience in manufacturing sheet

masks, Lessonia has developed a new technology to generate soaked masks.

This technology ensures reliability and precision when it comes to cutting and folding the masks, requiring only one operator on the line. Control cameras are also set up on the line to ensure every step of the manufacturing process is carried out successfully and in a compliant manner.

Founded in 2002, Lessonia specialises in producing ingredients and contract manufacturing and packing. It has also become the European Leader in sheet masks.

The new fully automated sheet mask line installed at Lessonia’s production plant in Saint Thonan, France

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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

At CPhI, ALPLApharma presented an exceptionally light, childproof closure known as CRC justONE. Normally, there are three parts to a childproof closure with a tamper-evident band that can only be opened by simultaneously pushing and turning the closure. These parts are produced in three separate production steps and then assembled. ALPLApharma has streamlined the production process for a significantly more efficient workflow. All parts are manufactured in just one injection moulding process with straightforward assembly. The new closure is certified under 16 CFR § 1700.20 and ISO 8317 for childproof packaging for bottles ranging from 30mℓ to 1.5ℓ.

The improved manufacturing process reduces material consumption by 25 percent, achieving a saving with an excellent price-performance ratio and it protects resources.

For the consumer, nothing changes – CRC justONE works like any other child-resistant closures and product safety is just as reliable.

CRC justONE by ALPLApharma is an exceptionally light, childproof closure with a tamper-evident band

Sami-Sabinsa honoured with multiple ‘Best Of’ awards THE ASSOCIATED CHAMBERS of Commerce & Industry of India (ASSOCHAM) has honoured the Sami-Sabinsa Group with numerous ‘Best Of’ awards in categories ranging from herbal research to beverage taste. The group’s founder, chairman and managing director, Dr Muhammed Majeed was also commended.

ASSOCHAM is a 99-year-old organisation of over 400 Chambers of Commerce and Trade Associations serving more than 450 000 members across India, with the mission to impact policy and legislation to foster balanced economic, industrial and social development. The awards given at the fifth ASSOCHAM National Symposium on Nutraceuticals, held in New Delhi on 26 September, were presented by Shri Pratap Chandra Sarangi, Honourable Minister of State for micro, small and medium enterprises and animal husbandry.

The 2019 Indian Nutraceuticals Trailblazer Award was presented to Dr Majeed, subsequent to the Shield of Honour award he received in 2018, in recognition of his outstanding commitment and leadership in

Dr Majeed accepting the 2019 Indian Nutraceuticals Trailblazer award from Shri Pratap Chandra Sarangi

integrating technology with Ayurveda and shaping the Indian Nutraceutical Industry.

The other awards included the Best Herbal Research Company, Best Nutraceutical Company, and Best Nutraceutical Export Company.

Several days later, over 6 000km away, Sabinsa received the Best Tasting Beverage award at Vitafoods Asia in Singapore for its Curcumin C3 Power Liquid, a demonstration of the versatility of the company’s GRAS affirmed Curcumin C3 Complex.

NEWS

BASED ON ITS recent analysis of the global manufacturing execution system (MES) market for pharmaceuticals, biotechnology, and cell and gene therapies, Frost & Sullivan has recognised Werum IT Solutions. The recognition includes its receipt of the 2019 Global MES for Pharmaceuticals, Biotechnology, and Cell and Gene Therapies Customer Value Leadership Award.

Werum’s MES solution, PAS-X, supports complex operations, higher productivity and adherence to regulatory requirements.

Its end to end solution comprises the PAS-X software product, pre-configured content for pharma and biotech processes, as well as consulting, training and support services.

Shruti Singh, industry analyst at Frost & Sullivan, comments: ‘Werum continuously innovates to deliver true value through marketleading solutions to create digital production processes. It has also developed an extensive ecosystem comprising warehouse management, finite scheduling, and track and trace serialization aggregation solutions for adjacent applications in pharmaceutical or biotech factories. Werum’s solutions greatly simplify the integration of machines, equipment and automation systems Jens Woehlbier, CEO into the existing production of Werum IT Solutions environment. Together with its customers, Werum creates the digital Pharma 4.0 factory of the future.’

Earning the prestigious Frost & Sullivan Customer Value Leadership Award is a tremendous achievement for Werum.

Jens Woehlbier, CEO of Werum IT Solutions, explains: ‘We believe successful operation not only comes from best quality solutions but by understanding and exceeding customer expectations. Through our community-oriented approach – PAS-X users represent the largest pharma and biotech MES user community worldwide – we add value to our customers' operations and contribute to their effective and sustained success.’

PAS-X MES specifically enables pharma and biotech manufacturers to meet increasing quality and regulatory requirements through built-in data integrity. It also reduces the need for human intervention in pharma and biotech companies, thereby reducing errors.

Werum’s solution can help customers achieve return on investment in just two to three years.

It aims to develop a continuously growing portfolio of new software products, features, and services, helping pharma, biotech, and cell and gene therapy manufacturers expand their businesses.

interpack

PROCESSING & PACKAGING

2019-09-26 interpack 2020_Südafrika_Image_88,5 x 262 + 3mm _SA Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review_4c_8402

WERUM RECEIVES FROST & SULLIVAN AWARD

Southern African-German Chamber of Commerce and Industry 47 Oxford Road _ Forest Town 2193 JOHANNESBURG P.O. Box 87078 _ Houghton 2041 Tel. +27 (0)11 486 2775 _ Fax +27 (0)86 685 3729 tradefairs@germanchamber.co.za _ www.germanchamber.co.za

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

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2019-09-26 interpack 2020_Südafrika_Image_88,5 x 262 + 3mm _SA Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review_4c_8402.indd 16.08.19 1 10:51

NEWS

Highlighting career options in the cosmetics industry

Patricia Kruger, pictured centre, with some of the students who showed an interest in the career options within the cosmetics industry

THE SOCIETY OF Cosmetic Chemists (Coschem) took part in the NWU School of Pharma Industry Open Day on 4 October. This annual event runs over three days and the intent is to provide final year pharmaceutical students with insight into career possibilities based on their qualification.

This industry day was attended by more than 400 students from NWU School of Pharmacy and around 40 students from the Eswatini Medical Christian University in Mbabane, Eswatini (formerly Swaziland).

Currently there is no tertiary institution in South Africa that offers an undergraduate qualification to study towards home care and personal care ingredients and product science.

For this reason, there is a want in this industry for qualified development chemist to take up employment with the various R&D departments in local home and personal care product manufacturing companies. Suitable qualifications would typically include a BSc in chemistry, biochemistry, biotechnology, B. Pharm and technical diplomas within the same scientific field of study.

Patricia Kruger, Coschem’s PR committee chair, made use of open day forum to present the exciting career options within the broader cosmetics industry. These include: • research and development of new products • product testing for substantiation of claims • production and operations • quality control and product stability testing • new ingredient research and development • legislation and product dossiers • marketing and sales.

The students showed tremendous interest, especially since most of them had not considered a career possibility in the industry. A lot of requests were made around possible internships as they are at a point where they would want to gain varied experience, before committing to specialist field within the scientific industry.

Omya offers natural solutions for added value AT THE 2019 Sepawa Congress, Omya presented solutions that score highly interms of efficiency and sustainability. The company introduced mastered calcium carbonate particles suitable for multifunctional cosmetics, toothpaste applications and household surface cleaners with varying levels of abrasiveness. The showcase was completed with a unique distribution portfolio of cleaning and care products, demonstrating the creation and versatility of all-round applications.

Omyacare and Omyaskin are ranges of different natural mineral particles matching decorative cosmetics, as well as personal care products. Based on a patented Omya technology, Omyaskin particles are available in various sizes designed to support numerous applications.

These particles deliver high efficiency in terms of coverage, sebum absorption and skin feel while simplifying the production process.

Omyadent is an ingredient specially designed for oral care applications. Consisting of a core of calcium carbonate surrounded by a shell of hydroxyapatite (HAP), Omyadent provides excellent remineralising

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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

properties and repairs microscopic defects in tooth enamel. With regular use, teeth gain a smoother, whiter surface. It also acts as a high efficiency carrier for flavours and antimicrobials.

For the home care segment, Omya offers surface cleaners based on marble, dolomite or limestone. Omyadol and Omyacarb minerals deliver outstanding absorption properties, adjustable abrasiveness and good polishing ability. They are also unharmful to ecosystems once back in the environment. The cost-efficient, brilliant white and natural calcium carbonate particles meet the highest expectations in terms of efficiency and sustainability and enhance the look and feel of finished products.

All minerals can be combined with ingredients from the company’s huge distribution portfolio, available locally from CJP Chemicals. For detergents and cleaners, Omya offers surfactants, bleaching activators, disinfecting or emulsifying agents and more. For the personal care industry, the portfolio includes natural colour pigments, sweeteners, preservatives, antioxidants and other functional ingredients.

1

STREET 4 1 Join the tribe Sun care brand, Island Tribe has been relaunched with new packaging and a few new products. The vibrant new look is sure to be met with great enthusiasm from consumers as is the addition of the new products. These include the Kids SPF50 Light Lotion 200mâ„“ and Kids SPF50 Light Lotion Trigger Spray 300mâ„“. Island Tribe offers CANSA endorsed, dermatologist tested, broad-spectrum sun protection for the whole family.

2 Nourishing skin oils

2

The Cape Town Toiletry Co. has launched a luxurious new range, Skin Oil of Africa, formulated with locally sourced and naturally derived ingredients. The Organic Hemp Seed Oil is a real allrounder and suitable for both dry and oily skin. The Skin Oil of Africa range also includes Bio Pharma Oil, Organic African Coconut Oil, and Organic African Rosehip Oil. All four skin oils are available in rich and nourishing body creams.

3 The power of probiotics Dr Bradley Wagemaker from Lamelle has developed two new skin primers based on probiotic technology. Skin Essence Rejuvenate firms skin and improves radiance. This bio-rich nutrient solution is enhanced with organic acids, minerals, vitamins, amino acids and over 90 percent probiotic lysate to improve complexion, radiance, skin texture and firmness in a short period of time. Enhanced with polysaccharides, B glucans, amino acids, fatty acids and plant extracts, Skin Essence Corrector improves the appearance of wrinkles, redness, irritation and sagging, making it the perfect companion to any anti-ageing skin care programme.

4 Sunshine shades for nails

5

Mavala is celebrating life and energy with the palette of sunshine shades, luminous earth tones and warm sunbeams in its new Solaris Collection. Consisting of six vivacious and comforting colours, Solaris is based on nature inspired and more neutrally minded shades, from sand to tan, cream to clay browns, and a coral orange.

3

5 Natural essentials for men Beaucience for Men is designed to be a simple, unique, specialised skin care range. The facial wash is a luxurious soap-free formulation that gently cleanses and leaves skin feeling fresh. Beaucience masque, suitable for all skin types, is an easy to apply nondrying formulation that deep cleanses for a clear complexion.

The aftershave balm for men is a light textured balm to use after shaving or anywhere externally on the body.

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

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Learn how to lead and succeed in the competitive world of beauty

Join us for the P&C REVIEW 2020

Beauty Benchmarks & Innovation TH I NK TANK

The P&C Review industry conference will be back next year with an unmissable programme, featuring leaders, innovators and forward thinking industry experts.

See how your brand stacks up against some of the most sustainable ones, meet beauty vloggers and bloggers and get inspired to create great social media content while you learn about how to adapt to rapid changes in the market.

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• To register, send an e-mail to Natalie.DaSilva@newmedia.co.za with the names and surnames of your conference delegates.

EVENTS

Puregas honours its customers

On 3 October, Puregas hosted its Partnership Awards at the Johannesburg Country Club Woodmead. Al Prodgers featured as the MC and the thought-provoking futurist, Pieter Geldenhuys, treated guests to a novel prediction of the future.

F

or many years, the Puregas

‘We will continue to investigate

the aerosol industry, which will bear fruit

Partnership Awards have honoured

investment opportunities to support our

from 2020 and set the tone for another

customers for their achievements

production, storage and distribution

exciting year for the business.’•

in safety, compliance and

assets, and to guarantee supply of top

business excellence.

The awards are primarily based on

quality cosmetic grade propellant. We are also working on other projects outside of

Puregas – www.puregas.co.za

good safety practices and standards in the areas of propellant handling and manufacturing. This is evaluated through

Philip Cloete

Pieter Geldenhuys

Al Prodgers

an annual safety audit conducted at its customers facilities.

A secondary, but still very important aspect, focuses on operational and administrative cooperation between the customer and Puregas, measured through efficiency in placing of orders and administrative processes pre- and post-delivery.

Adapting to change The theme of this year’s awards was ‘adapting to change’. Philip Cloete, managing director of Puregas, comments: ‘Despite tough economic times and low growth conditions, Puregas has performed very well on its existing products. In 2018, we made a significant investment in securing the supply of aerosol propellant to overcome challenges associated with the lack of continuous and regular local supply.

Philip Cloete, Ricky Naiken and Steve Reddy (BNG Packing & Technology) and Gugu Makhathini (Puregas)

Susan Kendal (Puregas), Tumelo Mokhotla (Tiger Brands) and Philip Cloete (Puregas)

Both local supply sources have been off

Category A: Large Bulk Users

Category C: Cylinder Users

this year which put these 2018 plans to the

• Winner – Tiger Brands

• Winner – BNG Packing &

test. As a result of the investments and other

• First Runner Up – Unilever

contingencies, our customers experienced

• Second Runner Up – SC Johnson

no restrictions in supply during these times of local supply outages.’

Technology Gugu Makhathini, Michael Downing (Acorn Group of Companies) and Philip Cloete

• Runner Up – Acorn Group of Companies

Despite tough economic times and low growth conditions, Puregas has performed very well on its existing products The company has also kept on top of global trends. Puregas attended the FEAerosol2018 in Düsseldorf, Germany, bringing back many ideas for innovation to the South African market.

Looking forward, Cloete says the high service level and quality offering to the aerosol industry will remain Puregas’ core focus.

14

Nevri Govindsamy (Puregas), Pieter de Bruyn and Jason Cloete (Cibapac) and Philip Cloete

Category B: Small and Medium Sized Bulk Users • Winner – Cibapac • First Runner Up – Clarke Colours • Second Runner Up – Vitafoam

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

Nevri Govindsamy, Dr George Gaenssler (Clarke Colours) and Philip Cloete

Nevri Govindsamy; Michael Mabale, Johan Booysen, Emmanuel Nemulalate and Bandile Majezi (Vitafoam) and Philip Cloete

EVENTS

Organic and natural expo comes to SA South Africa, and indeed the continent, is about to catch up with the worldwide demand for organic and natural products with an expo scheduled for May 2020 in Johannesburg.

W

hilst these sectors overseas

role players including the South African

beverages; organic gardening; vegan,

are serviced by numerous

Organic Sector Organisation (SAOSA), the

vegetarian, halaal and kosher goods;

and increasingly successful

Health Products Association (HPA), Organic

health foods and dietary supplements, food

trade and consumer events

Assurance Organisation PGS, the Cosmetic

supplements and nutrition; and cosmetics

there has, until now, been no platform

Export Promotion Council of South Africa

and hygiene products.

locally that allows both the trade and

(CECOSA), the South African National Halaal

consumers to view the latest trends in

Authority (SAWHA) and the Slow Food (South

suppliers into these industries are currently

natural and organic ingredients, products

African Chapter), with more endorsements

SMEs with limited resources, the organisers

and services.

in the pipeline.

have tailored stand sizes, price and

Designed as a hybrid event that caters

Cognisant of the fact that many nascent

The Organic and Natural Products Expo is set to showcase local and overseas manufacturers,

to trade buyers while allowing retail sales directly to consumers, the Organic and Natural Products Expo is set to showcase

suppliers, importers and exporters

local and overseas manufacturers, suppliers, importers and exporters. Inward buying missions from overseas are also

Diverse goods and services

availability to suit all pockets. Participating

being orchestrated. ‘We have had an

Taking place from 8 to 10 May at The Deck

associations will also be hosting pavilions for

incredibly positive response to date,’ says

at Wanderers Stadium, Illovo, the Organic

their members at reduced rates.

John Thomson of South African Trade

and Natural Products Expo will encompass

Promotions, the organiser of the exhibition.

ingredients and raw materials; beauty

Natural Products Expo or to book your stand,

and personal care products; household

send an e-mail to John.t@satp.co.za for

products; organic and natural foods and

more information. •

The event has garnered the support of many influential industry bodies and

For enquiries about the Organic and

AT LAST !!

AN EVENT LONG OVERDUE IN SOUTH AFRICA.......

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Powerful support Dual trade and consumer show Exhibitor Enquiries: John.t@satp.co.za P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

15

FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

Luxurious, Parisian & iconic Unique to Symrise, a select range of de Laire bases are now available for beauty care applications. Launched in the market in October, this development brings addictive, memorable, exclusive and premium elements to beauty care, to enhance finished products. to build complex

era in fragrance is being built. One

and dynamic

that is sensual but not superfluous. This

new fragrances

singular vision of haute perfumery is

never before

unveiling a world of endless possibilities.

afforded through

I

catapulted its passion for fine fragrance

alone. They have

innovation into the beauty industry with

inspired many of

the launch of de Laire Beauty Care. This

the world’s most

significant development sees avant-

iconic fragrances for

garde versions of five select de Laire

n the early 20 century,

the legendary couture houses

bases being made available for beauty

synthetics were still relatively

of Guerlain, Chanel and Rochas

care products.

new in the perfume industry.

to name a few. Revolutionary,

They weren’t served up raw but

yet timeless, these iconic bases

th

were founded in 1878 by the

presented in a mini perfume.

These mini perfumes were called bases, and they were the springboard of some of the greatest compositions to come.

At the heart of Symrise is de Laire, the historic house that developed the first synthetic bases.

DID YOU KNOW?

visionary entrepreneur and innovative chemist, Georges de Laire.

Symrise has developed some By combining the of the most profound building newly available blocks of classic perfumery, from manufactured the formulation of vanillin – the first synthetic molecule – to the creation materials with of de Laire bases. The company has precious natural maintained this spirit of innovation raw materials in a today, as the number one slow and sensuous producer of the most exquisite process, these and sustainably sourced raw materials. bases gave perfumery alchemy with artistry to

Bases not only anchor a

evoke a deeper feeling.

perfume’s core, but also are the

Many of the raw materials within

underpinning from which all the other notes are built around to

Symrise’ de Laire Bases now come

create the multiplex, sophisticated

from renewable sources. Each base

fragrances consumers have come

blends high quality raw materials,

to expect from modern

fine natural oils and an exclusive

day perfumes.

captive, bringing the past to

The de Laire bases were

the present and celebrating the

ground-breaking in their ability

continued legacy of Symrise. This is

to allow perfumers the freedom

the foundation upon which a new

16

Fast forward to 2019 and Symrise has

raw ingredients

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

The beauty care bases include Rouge Groseille, which captures the soul of succulent red berries; Miel Essentiel, a white gourmand signature with floral undertones; Ambre 84, an avant-garde amber; Cuir Velours, a nude leather

FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

Table 1: Experience Ambre 84 in beauty care

Fragrance creation

De l’Exaltation –for feminine skin care

De la Sensualité – for feminine shampoo

Perfumery notes

• white creamy orris • joyful sunny bloom • enveloping amber balms • delightful solar touch • exclusive powdery woods • warm addictive amber

• sexy hot cinnamon • refined amber and benzoin • exclusive masculine woods

Enriched with

Orris concrete

Benzoin resinoid

Ylang-ylang oil

De l’Amour Propre – for masculine shower gel

with noble floral powdery notes; and

fragrance wearer. This is according to

Noir Prunol, which is a fresh take on the

Symrise perfumer, Laurent Le Lorec,

iconic candied plum scent.

who says ‘this blooming effect of a fragrance in a beauty care product is

Beauty that blooms

highly relevant to the

With scientific passion and creative

African market’.

intuition, Symrise engineers the

As Africa is a relatively price sensitive

sensorial into the beneficial to create

market, not all consumers can afford

fragrance experiences in beauty

fine fragrances as well as personal

products which enhance well-being

care and hair care products. ‘But,

and positively lift emotions.

by using a de Laire base in a beauty

The company’s decision to use

care product, Symrise offers the end

the de Laire bases in beauty care

user and brand owner the benefit of

formulations adds a unique touch

the sillage effect in a body lotion or

to finished products, giving them a

shampoo,’ he explains.

Lau rent Le Lorec

sillage effect – which is the term used

Perfumery ingredients in a product

to describe the scented trail left by a

change the entire sensorial experience ‘Ambre 84 offers long-lasting freshness,

and play on the mood of the user.

INSTILLING EXCELLENCE IN YOUNG PERFUMERS THE FUTURE OF fragrance has been housed at Symrise for the past 50 years. Its industry leading perfumery school has trained master perfumers like Joachim Correll, Elke Dörrier, Dirk Braun and Clito Hödicke, among others.

comfort and a soft, creamy effect,’ he

As a perfumer, Le Lorec feels it is

By using a de Laire base in a beauty care product, Symrise offers the end user and brand owner the benefit of the sillage effect in a body lotion important to provide consumers with

comments. ‘At its base is a very sensual

‘a happy feeling’ when using a beauty

ambery note enlightened by a refined

product. ‘Apart from uplifting the base

toffee accord and a unique blend of

formulation, using perfume in a beauty

precious natural woods. Ambre 84 is

Dubai, Singapore, China and India. Since then, 22

care product garners an immediate

suitable for body lotions, shower gels and

young perfumers have completed their training

response from the user,’ he adds.

hair care products, such as shampoos and

These masters are now transferring their talent to the next generation. The school in its new form was relaunched in 2007 for Symrise’s creative centres in the US, Mexico, Brazil, France, Germany, Barcelona,

at the academy – and all of them have become

Le Lorec has extensive knowledge of

successful in their respective product categories

the African market and believes Ambre

and regions.

84 will be the most relevant base in the

The programme is intense. Yet, after two years in the Holzminden classroom and an additional two years of international study, each newly

initial southern African roll out of de Laire Beauty Care.

conditioners, adding an impressive multifaceted impact in beauty creations.’ •

Symrise – www.symrise.com

anointed perfumer will have acquired a profound knowledge of fragrance raw materials, bases and basic accords, as well as a deep understanding of fine fragrance archetypes and complex accords.

This exposure to different cultures helps deepen the perfumer’s understanding of other markets and consumers and begins to influence their creative style. As they learn to intersect nature, chemistry and culture, the science of fragrance is elevated into an innovative art form.

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

17

FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

What is a perfect scent?

Components of success are various depending on the final application.

The truth is that many parameters should be considered by fragrance houses when they start working on a creation. By Marie-Eugenie Bouge, marketing director of Payan Bertrand

I

f creativity is still the alpha of all developments, it’s become more and more connected to the idea of what consumers consider creativity to be. The idealistic vision of a master perfumer independently

conceiving the creative fragrance of tomorrow is no longer realistic, except in luxurious niche perfumery where the end goal is more to be different than perfect.

In the fragrance industry, being creative no longer means being surprising or different. It’s more focused on adding a plus point to a complex range of values based on technical efficiency, consistency with geographical tastes and expectations. Being creative

Images courtesy of Payan Bertrand

is mastering a brand’s image, modernity and connections

Home fragrances

with new olfactive, fashion and cosmetics trends, coupled with

A particularly interesting segment of the industry is home

having access to premium raw materials to compose a scent.

fragrances. Air care products can have many functions for the brand developing them. These functions should come together to create an atmosphere more than a scent, where the consumer experiences emotional wellbeing, an escape or feels reassured or protected.

The route to the aforementioned goal can be multifaceted.

It could encompass the trendy use of caring aromatherapy essential oils in the diffusion, or it could be focused on more

Organic Essential and Carrier oils

technical ways of diffusing fragrance into the air which require

Conventional Essential and Carrier oils

specific perfume formulations. Or the focus could be a purely

Conventional and Organic Butters Ecocert approved Emulsifiers Ecocert approved Surfactants Squalane Hyaluronic acid

Natural and Organic Oils & Functional ingredients

creative and marketing one of new olfactive codes.

Being creative is mastering a brand’s image, modernity and connections with new olfactive, fashion and cosmetics trends Another function of home fragrances is to mask bad odours in functional formulations using specific molecules blended

www.nauticaorganics.com 083 266 2657 / 031 822 0601 donna@nauticaorganics.com

together in the quest for strength and coverage, more than the elegance of the fragrance.

They can also help develop brand identity through the use of olfactive marketing knowledge to create a unique olfactive signature within a retail environment, which is both noticeable and memorable.

These are part of the parameters Payan Bertrand, represented by Natchem, takes into consideration to offer the best suitable fragrance for each project, the one that is most likely to be considered perfect. •

Natchem – www.natchem.co.za Payan Bertrand – www.payanbertrand.com

18

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

Playboy introduces signature EDT collection The new fragrance collection from Playboy features fresh new packaging and the added star-power of brand ambassador, Katlego Maboe. Owned by Amka, the brand has also unveiled an EDT collection to complement the range.

P

• Legend, created with an aromatic blend

layboy brand custodian, Jack Kruger says that the alignment

of bergamot and oakmoss, is infused with

with well-known TV personality

Playboy signature EDT collection brand ambassador, Katlego Maboe

Katlego Maboe has added

allure to the range that won the 2018 Male Deodorant Product of the Year award.

‘The Signature line is for the confident man – he is self-assured and at the stage

distinctive notes of musk and amberwood • Ambition, with its fresh citrus top notes of mandarin and bergamot, has a base of irresistible musk and vanilla • Presence, with its unique blend of cardamom and grapefruit top

of life where he’s able to enjoy the finer

notes, features masculine vanilla and

things. Everything about this range is

cedarwood at the base.

aimed at the confident man – from the names of our variants – Bold, Presence,

over his achievements and feel a sense

Long lasting, premium scent

Ambition and Legend – to the carefully

of accomplishment, while still being

‘The Playboy Signature Collection

crafted fragrances and striking Ashwood

motivated to achieve more.’

embodies masculine and unique

bespoke caps on the glass bottles,’

statement fragrances, specially created

Aromatic and unique blends

to last longer,’ says Kruger. ‘We know that

The new range of spray deodorants and

a strong sense of identity is important to

Signature line as closely as Maboe. ‘As

EDTs includes:

our users which is why we are proud to

a television host, personality, singer,

• Bold, with its masculine woody blend,

introduce this new range of body sprays

says Kruger.

No one person embodies the new

model and father, Katlego is at a point

contains unforgettable notes of

and Eau de Toilettes distinguished by their

in his life where he’s able to look back

bergamot and sandalwood

defined and premium fragrances.’ •

www.o6southafrica.com

We've got a sense for Fragrance and Taste

And a o6th sense for what your customers want for both.

We keep an eye on changes in customer expectations, while watching global markets in order to anticipate the upcoming fragrance and taste trends. With an extensive and ever growing fragrance and taste offering, we're the preferred partner for what your product should taste or smell like.

011 234 8399 EAST AFRICA: richard@o6southafrica.com SOUTH AFRICA: adam@o6southafrica.com & mcqueen@o6southafrica.com

SMALL PACK DIVISION

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

19

FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

A luxury indulgence that’s accessible to everyone Creating a distinctive fragrance experience for shoppers, Foschini is partnering with Fragrance Boutique to allow South Africans to indulge in internationally inspired fragrances at an affordable price.

W

hen Fragrance Boutique recently announced its partnership with South Africa’s leading fashion

retailer, the Foschini Group, shoppers knew a fragrance innovation was in the air.

Launched on 1 October, customers can visit one of 30 Foschini stores nationwide and chat to a fragrance specialist instore. The new Fragrance Boutique stations offer customers access to the familiar scents of luxury fashion houses and brand names, at a fraction of the price tag. Each scent has been perfectly crafted

customers immersing themselves in

to match the notes of internationally known

the fragrance discovery experience. By

fragrances. Using a #number system, the

removing the brand label, customers have

in-store consultant takes the customer

been able to focus purely on the fragrance

through the scent experience to find their

itself – the emotions it can illicit and the

perfect match.

statement they want to convey through

‘We are thrilled to bring our offering to

their scent,’ explains Fragrance Boutique’s

Foschini’s trend-conscious consumer. So

national sales and marketing director,

far, the reaction has been amazing, with

Craig Dippenaar.

Like, follow and start a conversation with us on social media! @PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview @pharmacosreview @SApharmacos

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20

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

New Media Publishing, Ground Floor, Media Park 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2029 PO Box 784698, Sandton, 2146 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111 Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 2018/12/14 09:10

FRAGRANCES & ESSENTIAL OILS

A pioneer in the market

public about the generic industry

fragrance industry, and so began

For over 20 years, Fragrance

long before pharmaceutical

the revolution.’

Boutique has been offering

companies began to provide

consumers quality perfumes

affordable alternatives.

inspired by international scents, in simple packaging and without the price tag of branded products.

A pioneer on many fronts, the company is said to have forged the way for the generic fragrance market in South Africa, educating the

DID YOU KNOW?

Reverse engineered fragrances are now an accepted brand alternative

Fragrance Boutique prides itself on providing fantastic

to expensive international brands and packaging.

‘Fragrance Boutique has established

service, a unique

store experience Fragrance Boutique imports generic fragrances of the highest and access to the quality, directly from Grasse, France. largest range of The generic fragrances are then fragrances in South packaged under its brand name, which is a registered trademark.

Africa with body This very simple philosophy has lotions, shower grown its business into a leading alternative choice to expensive gels and aftershave fine fragrance brands balms also available. and packaging.

This successful

a very strong and loyal customer base, which has become destination driven and has a brand bias to its range of products. One of the cornerstones of our business is our very simple and effective policy – the price brings you in and the quality brings you back,’ he concludes. •

family run business

COMMITTED TO SA AND THE LOCAL SUPPLY CHAIN

employs 80 people and has stores nationwide. Its core values have always been honesty, passion, empowerment and integrity.

• FRAGRANCE BOUTIQUE HAS a strong empowerment programme. The company policy is to empower and promote

Reverse engineered fragrances

from within the company, offering staff

‘We are very proud to have

an opportunity to work towards

pioneered a completely new

management positions

concept within the traditional

• Of its 37 stores nationally, 35 of the

fragrance market. This market

sales managers employed at the stores

comprises two categories of

are women

products, namely entry level

• Only its fragrance oils are imported directly

brands targeted at the lower LSM

from Grasse, France, all other components

and the premium priced brands

are sourced locally

targeted at the higher LSM,’

• The manufacturing and packaging of the

Dippenaar adds. ‘Our disruption

finished product is outsourced to a South

strategy was simple; we created

African business

a product that incorporated

• Each of its stores is fabricated using South

exceptional quality with a price

African suppliers for shopfitting, signage,

point that appeals to the mass

electrics, design and all other materials.

market. We introduced reverse engineered fragrances to the

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

21

COMPANY FOCUS

New company driven to change the local packaging scene Based in Midrand, Gauteng, Floraison Cosmetic Packaging was established in November 2018. The company is proud to work with local manufacturers and leaders in the cosmetics industry, which have won awards for their packaging and skin care products.

F

loraison offers the most

the biggest customised cosmetics

fashionable, trending and innovative

comprehensive range of the

packaging company by 2020,

packaging components waiting to

latest and trending quality

leading by design and in the

be released.

airless bottles, from silver

quality of its products.

wrapped and double wall enclosures

The company makes

to fully customised colours and

great promises in terms

textures. The company strives for

of its service delivery.

excellence to elevate the business of

Its clientele doesn’t

its clientele.

need to wait for

Within a three-month period of being established, the company has managed to supply about 300 customers on the African continent and its number of clientele continues to grow.

By March 2019, Floraison had

Once an order is confirmed, Floraison promises it will be

largest supplier of airless cosmetics

ready for dispatch within 12 hours.

to expand even further and become

22

DID YOU KNOW?

product, Floraison reassures it will have it.

Airless packaging is ideal A one stop to protect sensitive products solution such as skin care and facial days or weeks, The company creams, serums and foundations. whether its samples strives for optimal Because the technology prevents that are needed, a work efficiency to formulations from exposure to air, it’s become a standard quotation or an order ensure customer in both the masstige of 20 or more boxes of satisfaction. and prestige packaging components.

With two directors beauty categories.

expanded its product offering as the packaging in South Africa. Its vision is

If it’s a game changing

Its agents across the world provide the company with the latest

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

and a brilliant team

working towards one vision, Floraison delivers on its promise. It provides customers with the quickest and highest quality

COMPANY FOCUS

Not only it look enticing, it’s also

The company also aims to achieve

hygienic. Another plus point of our

market share in the African market,

airless dispensers is 98 percent of the

taking its products cross border.

formulation packed in the chamber

‘Some of the most novel natural

gets dispensed,’

raw materials and ingredients are

Once an order is confirmed, Floraison promises it will be ready for dispatch within 12 hours

service guaranteed as a result of its experience and mobility.

‘We are not just another packaging company,’ says Chanhee Lee, codirector of Floraison. ‘The service we provide is specialised and pinpoints the exact design and combination of styles, quality and colours the customer needs. In order to achieve this, we have dedicated departments for each requirement, from sales and marketing to designers and worldwide sourcing agents. We provide a one stop total packaging solution to cater to the customers’ needs.’

Floraison provides the packaging components, coordinates the design and advises on the best marketing solution to make the product shine.

With the skills and experience of its team, the company believes it can raise the standard of packaging in the South African cosmeceutical market.

Industry game changer

produced in Africa while the quality

Floraison is driven by innovation. The

of skin care products manufactured

company provides the latest game

in Africa is increasing daily. There’s

changing packaging that stands out

no reason why African brand owners

on shelf and promises speed of service

and manufacturers should have

and guaranteed quality.

to package their formulations in

‘We are trend setters in the

common, cheap looking containers.

cosmetics packaging market. With the

With our world-class packaging,

largest range of airless bottles on the

Floraison provides international

South African market, we provide a

aesthetic appeal,’ says Kim.

one stop shop experience tailored to customers’ needs,’ Lee comments.

Although Floraison is a new company, both Lee and Kim agree, it has a long-term vision to succeed.

‘It is our number one priority to grow together with our clients to ensure a sustainable future for everyone. By consistently adapting to international packaging trends and developments, we aim to provide a quality service and quick turnaround of the latest and most innovative packaging components on the market,’ they say.

‘At Floraison, our goal is to become an industry leader in cosmetics packaging solutions. We are here to change the packaging scene in South Africa.’•

‘The quality of our packaging is undoubtedly validated through the standards set by the calibre of our clientele. We provide globally trending packaging equipped with state of the art airless technology,' adds Ryan Kim,

Floraison Cosmetic Packaging – www.floraison.net @Floraison Cosmetic Packaging @floraisonsa

who is also a co-director of Floraison.

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

23

GLASS PACKAGING

Pharmaceutical compliance guaranteed For a large number of pharmaceuticals, including medicinal products for oral and local administration, glass containers are usually the first choice. P C Review talks to Rob Springer, MD of Marsing SA, about the importance of using pharmaceutical glass bottles to package pharma products.

A

ccording to the WHO

Marsing SA supplies local

guidelines on packaging

manufacturers with sterile

for pharmaceutical

pharmaceutical glass

products, packaging

bottles. Its principal, RAK

preserves the stability and quality of

Ghani Glass has taken

medicinal products and protects them

a leading position in the

AN AWARDWINNING BUSINESS

against all forms of spoilage

market by establishing an ISO Class 8

At the Nkunzi Pharmaceutical’s awards

and tampering.

cleanroom certified glass production

evening on 23 October, Marsing SA

Packaging must also protect against all adverse external influences that can alter the properties of the product, such as moisture, light, oxygen and temperature variations, as well as biological contamination. Physical

facility in the UAE. This means the

DID YOU KNOW?

level of non-viable particles,

RAK Ghani Glass follows United States Pharmacopeia and European Pharmacopeia standards for container glass manufacturing, while incorporating all other relevant ISO standard certifications.

damage to a product is also prevented with the correct choice of packaging.

was named the Supplier of the Year for Packing Materials.

as well as microbiological quality are strictly and regularly monitored

the bottles are free from any bacteria, dust or particle contamination.

within its production plant. To guarantee the pharmaceutical compliance of its glass packaging, the facility

P C: How are pharmaceutical glass bottles generally produced in South Africa versus internationally?

operates 100 percent online

RS: Since I have not personally visited any

inspections and the glass bottles

of the local glass manufacturing facilities,

are shrink wrapped for shipping using an automated process free of human interaction.

P C: Why should pharma glass packaging be produced under sterile conditions?

I cannot comment on this.

What I can confirm is that our bottles are manufactured using the narrow neck press and blown method. The bottle is not simply blown, which is normally the case when producing glass bottles. With RAK Ghani Glass’ method, a plunger is used internally

RS: Technically our glass bottles are

to press and unify both the internal and

not produced under sterile conditions.

outer shape and dimensions of the bottles.

However, pharmaceutical glass

Instead of simply blowing the bottles, the

bottles should be produced and,

narrow neck press and blown method adds

more importantly, packed within

to both internal and external dimension

a controlled cleanroom

control, quality standards and strength

pharmaceutical environment.

of bottles.

These production areas should be The automated inspection system utilised at RAK Ghani Glass

standards relate specifically to primary

P C: Have you made any advancements in terms of supplying sterile glass bottles to the local market?

packaging for medicinal products.

RS: The glass containers supplied by

assessed and need to conform to both ISO 14644-1 and Class 8 specifications, as well as ISO 15378:2017. These ISO

Any manufacturer adhering to these standards guarantees end users that

24

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

Marsing SA are produced and packed in a facility that operates a pharmaceutical

GLASS PACKAGING

The bottles are packed in non-refundable packing, eliminating any hassles all international standards. Quality is guaranteed using three separate on

The cleanroom facility at RAK Ghani Glass

P C: Are these pharmaceutical glass bottles suitable for both automated and manual production methods?

quality management system. RAK Ghani

line quality control checks, both on

Glass adheres not only to aforementioned

annealing and coating, performed within

ISO standards, but also ISO 14001 and

a class 100 000 cleanroom facility.

high-speed automatic filling lines and

The glass bottles can then be

for manual production. The bottles are

ISO 9001. All of these standards relate to

RS: The bottles can be used on both

the international quality management

delivered directly onto a manufacturer’s

systems governing the manufacture and

all shrink wrapped in hand and machine

bottle packing and filling line. The bottles

packing of pharma glass bottles.

manageable trays. These trays are then

are also packed in non-refundable

stacked on pallets and further shrink

packing, eliminating any hassles

wrapped for transportation. Customers

and complications associated with

may buy individual trays ranging from

trying to recover refunds on

36 bottles per tray to full pallet loads of up

returnable packaging.

to 23 000 bottles. •

P C: What can a South African pharma manufacturer expect when sourcing pharmaceutical glass bottles from Marsing SA?

Customers can also expect a 48-hour turnaround in terms of

RS: Customers can expect

delivery, since Marsing SA carries

pharmaceutical grade bottles,

stock in a pharmaceutical controlled

manufactured in a professional pharma

warehouse of most bottles based on

compliant facility, which adheres to

customers’ forecasts.

Marsing SA – www.marsing-sa.com RAK Ghani Glass – www.rakghaniglassllc.com

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

25

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Go beyond hydration with Hydrafence

With the arrival of the famous Ming Dynasty, from 1368 to 1644, the concept of the Great Wall was born. Unlike the first sections of wall built with mud, the dynasty saw the use of a unique mortar technology, adding glutinous amylopectin-rich rice flour – fortifying the borders against neighbouring attacks.

By Siham Bouhrir and Rafael Bernad of Provital Group

M

odern analysis has

people. The Hydrafence project

the standards of the OSPAR Convention

shown the addition of

was created with key aspects of

– the Convention for the Protection of

amylopectin in mortar

the 17 United Nations Sustainable

the Marine Environment of the North

results in a special

Development Goals in mind, especially

East Atlantic.

organic-inorganic compound where

SDG 2 (Zero Hunger) and SDG 12

the inorganic component is calcium

(Ensuring Sustainable Production and

Positive in vitro results

carbonate. This compound is stronger,

Consumption Patterns).

The skin’s endogenous mechanism

more flexible and has greater water

Provital understands the importance

retention and less shrinkage

of rice in the human diet –

when curing.

almost half of the world’s

This organic-mineral

population consumes

combination

this food source

inspired Provital

regularly. For this

for maintaining hydration focuses on preserving the barrier function.

If altered, it increases TEWL, leading to dry, desquamated and uncomfortable skin.

Calcium is crucial to maintain skin barrier function as it plays a key role in

Group to develop

reason and in line

the biology of the epidermis. It controls

Hydrafence as

with its sustainability

enzymatic activity, gene expression and

a protective wall

policy, the group

keratinocyte differentiation. A calcium

for the skin. With

utilised a by-product

gradient allowing the proper regulation

its multi-beneficial

from the refining

action, Hydrafence

process of grains of

offers a holistic

rice amylopectin, so as

approach to natural and

not to interfere with food

healthy facial and body care – a trend that is here to stay.

Hydrafence is a natural active

security and to contribute to the circular economy.

Lithothamnion calcareum is a species

of these important processes is found in skin. With ageing, this gradient is lost, so it will be very beneficial to supply calcium to the epidermis.

moisturiser and skin barrier enhancer

of algae that forms part of Maerl beds,

based on a new hydrocolloid matrix

a term used to describe the community

of rice amylopectin, containing a

shaped by several species of red

trials were

calcium-rich fraction extracted from

calcareous algae, which grow in the

conducted under

the Lithothamnion calcareum algae.

Hydrafence is a natural active moisturiser and skin barrier enhancer based on a new hydrocolloid matrix of rice amylopectin

A refined methodology was applied to extract the calcium-rich fraction from the algae, which is then injected into the hydrocolloid matrix of rice amylopectin using proprietary Provital technology, for sustained release.

Eco-friendly and socially conscious

In vitro

low calcium conditions to simulate skin ageing, under these conditions Hydrafence showed a clear modulating effect on various genes that produce the proteins involved in the formation of the three defensive barrier structures of the skin: • stratum corneum – Loricrin, Involucrin, Transglutaminase 1

Provital Group is rethinking the way

sea. As it hosts a large amount of flora

and Cholesterol Sulfotransferase

it interacts with nature to continue

and fauna and helps maintain a proper

• tight junction barrier – Claudin-1

providing solutions that not only support

pH in the sea, Lithothamnion calcareum

and 4, Occludin

product development but also offer a

is of high ecological importance.

• antimicrobial barrier, ß-Defensin-3.

Provital obtains Lithothamniom

A topical application of Hydrafence

sustainable customer experience.

In its awareness of caring for the planet, the group is also caring for

26

calcareum through sustainable

on skin models allowed for the

harvesting methods in compliance with

evaluation of protein production in

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Thermal images of the skin after applying Methyl Nicotinate, a vasoactive substance. Images were taken before (D0), 14 (D14) and 28 (D28) days after Hydrafence treatment

the tight junction area, ceramide

hydration (120 hours after treatment).

also improved as the active ingredient

production and skin barrier recovery

Dynamic water loss was also prevented

provided smooth, well-moisturised skin.

after delipidation.

indicating the barrier function of the

These tests showed Hydrafence increases the cohesion of the upper

Hydrafence acts from the inside

skin has dramatically improved.

out by activating the skin’s natural

Protection and recovery from an

hydration and protection mechanisms.

layer of the epidermis, restores the skin’s

aggression to the skin was assessed.

It also reinforces the barrier function,

ability to generate its own ceramides

TEWL, redness caused by irritation,

working from the outside in, by

and reinforces barrier function.

and microcirculation were clearly

stimulating lipid synthesis in the

diminished in skin treated with

epidermis, especially the synthesis

Efficacy proven in vivo

Hydrafence after aggression. In

of ceramides. The active ingredient

An in vivo study was conducted to

addition, a greater decrease in the

provides immediate relief for dry skin

assess the efficacy of Hydrafence in

recovery time of these parameters was

while ensuring long-lasting hydration for

moisturising the skin in terms of its

detected. Using a vasoactive chemical

up to five days. •

increased static water level, improving

with irritant effects, skin resilience was

barrier function and reducing TEWL

studied and imaged. The protective

(dynamic water). The results revealed

function of Hydrafence delayed

immediate (from 30 minutes),

the onset of the irritation effect. The

cumulative (28 days) and long-lasting

sensory properties of the skin were

Provital Group – www.provitalgroup.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

27

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Journey down the river of life with paradise nut oil Produced by Henry Lamotte Oils and distributed locally by Protea Chemicals, Paradise Nut Oil is sourced from the legendary Río Magdalena in Colombia. It is said to be the latest discovery in cosmetics and will give products a distinctive and innovative edge.

H

igh in unsaturated fatty acids as well as

which grows wildly along the banks of the Río Magdalena River

over 70 percent vitamin E, Paradise Nut Oil

in Colombia.

(INCI Lecythis Minor Seed Oil) is distinctive for its excellent moisturising properties and

One litre of oil can be harvested from 500kg of these nuts, but only in limited quantities as the trees grow wild. This tree is particularly

forms a protective film in the epidermal layer. This layer

special because it can thrive in the selenium-rich soil of the river

blocks moisture evaporation from the skin and reduces

basin, which is not otherwise suitable for agricultural use.

transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This excellent skin protection lends the oil its anti-ageing properties.

Clinical studies have proven its efficacy in combating

People in this geographically isolated and remote area, particularly single mothers, earn an income from harvesting the nuts.

Paradise Nut Oil can be used in various cosmetics at a

wrinkles and the visible signs of ageing. Of those

concentration ranging from one to 20 percent. Applications include

volunteers studied, 90 percent observed a reduction in

face and body creams, shampoos and colour shampoos for dyed

the depth of wrinkles within just four weeks.

hair, shower gels and makeup remover. •

A socially responsible product In addition to its efficacy, Paradise Nut Oil is backed by a great story of fair trade and community development. The oil is extracted from the wood-like capsules – also known as ‘monkey pots’ – of the Lecythis minor tree,

The oil is extracted from the wood-like capsules of the Lecythis minor tree

Henry Lamotte Oils – www.lamotte-oils.de Protea Chemicals – www.proteachemicals.co.za

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS

MATTE & SHINE

If the runways of the leading fashion designers are anything to go by, the trends in make-up and styling are dominated by two looks: matte and shine. The fresh, young shine look is achieved with a radiant make-up complemented by healthy glossy hair. The “undone” appearance of matte, on the other hand, is created by nude-make-up and faded gloss in beach waves. Whether for hair care, skin care or makeup – achieve the perfect matte or shine look with BELSIL ® silicones and HDK ® silicas from WACKER. www.wacker.com/personalcare

28

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

Your official distributor in South Africa

Passionate about creating cosmetics naturally Suppliers of ingredients to the natural cosmetics, Suppliers of ingredients to the natural cosmetics, toiletries and personal care markets. toiletries and personal care markets.

•

Organic oils and bespoke • Vegetal carrier oils, • Preservatives botanical extracts produced special oils & extracts • Emulsifiers, surfactants, • Organic oils and bespoke • Vegetable oils and butters • Preservatives at Inovia International’s solubilisers & solvents • Butters, hard oils, organically certified site. & specials •• Emulsifi Natural ers, & synthetic beeswax botanical extracts • Floralwaxes waters surfactants, • Essentials oils, absolutes • Water soluble oils • Essential oils and absolutes • Cream & soap bases solubilisers & solvents & extracts essential oils • Emollients INTRODUCING oils andwaters bespoke • • oils, Vegetal • Preservatives nic oils• and bespoke • Vegetal carrier Preservatives Standardised Creamcarrier & soap•oils, bases • Organic iBase range botanical extracts produced special oils & extracts Emulsifiers, surfactants, nical extracts produced special oils & extracts • Emulsifiers,•surfactants,

by Inovia UK at Inovia International’s • oils, Butters, hard oils, solubilisers & solvents solubilisers & solvents ovia International’s • Butters, hard Inovia is & pleased to introduce organically certified site. waxes & specials • Natural synthetic beeswax nically certified site. waxes & specials • Natural & synthetic beeswax the iBase range of off-the-shelf, • Essentials • oils Water soluble oils tials oils, absolutes oils, absolutes • Water soluble pre-formulated, cosmetic and & extracts acts essential oils essential oils • Emollients • Emollients personal care bases.

INTRODUCING INTRODUCING • waters Standardised waters • Cream & soap • bases Cream & soap bases ardised iBase range iBase range

by Inovia UK by Inovia UK

of ingredients to thecosmetics, natural cosmetics, SuppliersSuppliers of ingredients to the natural and personal care markets. toiletriestoiletries and personal care markets.

is pleased to introduce Inovia is pleasedInovia to introduce the iBase range of off-the-shelf, the iBase range of off-the-shelf, pre-formulated, pre-formulated, cosmetic and cosmetic and personal care bases. personal care bases.

Inovia is a division of

Visit us at our new address, 19 Hillclimb Road, Westmead

T: 031 7929860 / 011 9580369 • E: info@hexachem.co.za Tel: 031 792 9860 • E: info@hexachem.co.za • www.hexachem.co.za • www.inoviainternational.co.uk www.hexachem.co.za • www.inoviainternational.co.uk RSPO 9-2173-17-100-00

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Strategic innovation & sustainable ingredients at your fingertips The Hexachem group of companies – part of and representing Stan Chem International in southern Africa – provides a diverse product offering. It operates on a global basis across the chemical, personal care and agricultural industries, doing so successfully since 1977. milestone in the continued growth plans of the group and is a natural progression towards achieving its long-term strategy.

Sourcing and supplying Through Stan Chem Trading, Hexachem provides international solutions to customers in southern Africa as a result of strategic partnerships with various Hexachem’s new premises in Westmead, KwaZulu-Natal

agencies that are market leaders in their own rights. This association empowers Hexachem to source and supply speciality chemicals, active pharmaceutical ingredients and disinfectants to the local market.

Product quality and traceability are

U

important to the group of companies. nified within its group,

essential and vegetable oils. It also offers

Its aim is simple – to provide the right

Hexachem is dedicated to

a bespoke range of botanical extracts.

product at the right price, with the correct

supplying raw materials and ingredients of the highest

Inovia International provides a wide range of services, including product

specification, packaged and tested according to its customers’ requirements.

quality. This is achieved by focusing

sourcing, manufacturing, brand support,

on exceptional manufacturing

marketing and packaging. Its customers

approach to the agricultural sector

standards, excellence in customer

are based worldwide and range from

through Biotechnica, manufacturing

interaction and service and

large multinational companies to small

innovative seaweed extracts for use

continuous strategic innovation.

craft cooperatives.

The Inovia International division offers

This division recently announced

an extensive product range, supplying

that Stan Chem Group has successfully

natural and organic ingredients and

completed the acquisition of Hampshire

a range of cosmetic bases to the

Cosmetics, a cosmetic contract

cosmetics, toiletries and personal care

manufacturer based in Waterlooville

markets, in addition to a wide range of

near Portsmouth, in the UK. This marks a

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| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

It offers an environmentally friendly

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

INOVIA INTERNATIONAL PRODUCT FOCUS THE IBASE+ RANGE offers a bespoke assortment of fully customisable bases within proven and substantiated actives – such as anti-ageing and anti-pollution actives – together with a chosen or bespoke fragrance, either natural or synthetic, and a specific extract. This combination provides the customer with a finished product ready for the retailer or end user. The range is developed and supported by the Inovia technical team, which is a leader in manufacturing natural and organic ingredients and a prominent contract manufacturer.

To meet demands for skin care products formulated with charcoal – a very trendy ingredient – Inovia International has launched a natural charcoal clay face mask using its iBase Emulsion Clay Mask emulsion base made from natural clays to withdraw impurities from the skin. The base also contains argan oil and shea butter for moisturisation. A wide variety of actives, extracts and essential oils can be added to transform the clay mask emulsion into a concern specific or generic offering for all skin types.

Inovia International has developed a range of anti-pollution products that aim to protect the skin and hair from the harmful effects of air pollution. Each range of the base products contains a An operator utilising a Silverston portable mixer at Inovia International

Offering smaller pack sizes and bulk materials, Hexachem ensures it caters for all business needs, from SMEs and large corporates to multinationals in the agricultural, horticultural and amenities industries. Unlocking the potential in crops, Hexachem also offers a comprehensive range of bio-stimulants and bio-nutrients.

99 percent naturally derived anti-pollution lotion and anti-pollution cream, a 100 percent naturally derived anti-pollution aqueous serum, a 99 percent naturally derived anti-pollution facemask and an approximately 95 percent naturally derived micellar water to cleanse and detoxify the skin. The range focuses on cellular detoxification to address pollution concerns at a cellular level and anti-blue light, providing for anti-pollution claims with the added benefit of blue light protection.

Flexible and focused

by SGS for several ISO certifications,

Hexachem is situated in South Africa, to

as well as FEMAS, GMP and COSMOS

provide global offerings and support to

certifications to name a few. It is

customers throughout southern Africa.

committed to ensure sustainable

The company recently moved to new

sourcing, traceability and the highest

premises in Westmead, KwaZulu-Natal,

quality standards whilst offering extensive

which are equipped with purpose built

market knowledge and technical support

facilities to cater for all stakeholders’

to its customers. In order to do so, the

logistical needs.

company strives to be at the forefront

Offering smaller pack sizes and bulk materials, Hexachem ensures it caters

of market trends, providing innovative products and solutions to the industry. •

for all business needs, from SMEs and large corporates to multinationals.

Customers can take advantage of its global sourcing knowledge to identify the most cost-effective sourcing solution for their business.

The group boasts various international

Hexachem – www.hexachem.co.za Inovia International – www.inoviainternational.co.uk Stan Chem International – www.stanchem.co.uk

accreditations, including verification

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

31

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Superior care for African hair

Launched in South Africa in 1987, Ladine has been caring for African women's hair for over three decades and is said to be the first truly professional African hair care brand in our country. In October, Ladine revealed a new direction for the brand with the introduction of Ladine Professional Care. build up from calcium relaxers,’ he adds.

New and improved

DID YOU KNOW?

André Schwarzer, Ladine channel manager with Lutendo Magina, R&D manager at Henkel Beauty Care South Africa

W

technologies into the formulations,’

relaunched Ladine

comments Lutendo Magina, research

Professional Care comes

& development manager at Henkel

at a perfect time for

Beauty Care SA, which owns the

African Hair. With the latest innovations and

Ladine Professional Care brand.

‘The Ladine two in one Infused

breakthrough technology, the professional

BioComplex Neutralizing Shampoo is

and retail ranges offer the complete

one of our innovations featuring the

solution for hairdressers and consumers.

unique unisphere technology that

These products were introduced on

and each category speaks to a particular hair type and concern. Ladine’s new wonder range promises softer, stronger hair in three easy steps. This range is

formulated with moringa oil and curated for all hair types with up to 10 benefits.

The Decalcifying Conditioning Spray from Ladine is said to be a first in the market. It reduces calcium buildup and helps this from occuring in future, providing supreme hair conditioning after the Young & Gentle relaxer service.

provides an improved performance

14 October at an event held at The

system. Another innovation is our

Park House of Events in Johannesburg’s

Ladine Decalcifying Conditioning

Hyde Park Shopping Centre. Updated

Spray formulated with a natural bio-

packaging, new and improved

degradable chelating agent. For this

formulations based on naturally inspired

product we worked very closely with

ingredients and exciting trend collections

our supplier to develop an application

were the main highlights.

specific formulation based on their

‘We’ve invested heavily in the

now boasts 11 categories

Henkel Beauty Care holds leading market positions worldwide, and its brand-name products business is continuously expanding. This business unit develops, produces and sells numerous successful high quality products in the hair, body, skin and oral care categories, which are available in 150 countries worldwide.

elcoming the newly

consumers to experience superior care for

Ladine Professional Care

guidelines. Using a natural and

relaunch and worked with our suppliers

renewable technology, it gently and

to incorporate the best and trending

effectively removes traces of calcium

Michelle Drake, head of marketing and Matlhogonolo Nke, junior brand manager at Henkel Beauty Care

“As a proud partner to Henkel, IMCD South Africa would like to extend our congratulations on the grand VI ASPET MO relaunch of the Ladine range. IN-COSMETTIA ICS 2019 STANyou D With such innovative products, we are confident E80 will capture the market.”

Resta al passo con le tendenze, fatti guidare dai nostri esperti e fai risplendere le tue formulazioni!

Unisciti a noi ad InCosmetics 2019. www.imcdgroup.com IMCD SA T: 011 293 2000 E:ana.dacosta@imcdsa.co.za IMCD ITALIA SPA T: +39 02 557091 E: info@imcd.it

32

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION The brand’s adoption of the unique Unisphere technology is another point of innovation as two different formulas have been combined to provide the end user with optimal results, allowing the right amount of Bio-Complex to be used during the neutralising process after a relaxer service. This locks in moisture in MC of the night, Luthando LOOTLOVE Shosha

the hair follicle, restores strength and elasticity, smooths the hair for improved manageability, restores its normal pH, improves the condition of relaxed hair and closes the hair cuticle.

Ladine Professional Care is all about the science of being beautiful Ladine has also incorporated a strong

The brand’s relaxer technology is

SHAPING FUTURES With a mission to empower, Shaping Futures teaches disadvantaged young people the skills of hairdressing so they can support themselves to changes their lives. Established in 2008 with a small Japanese project to uplift Cambodian street children, Shaping Futures evolved into a global initiative in 2010 when Henkel partnered with SOS Children’s Villages – a leading non-profit organisation. Since then, the programme has helped over 2 000 young adults in 27 countries achieve a brighter future.

take home relaxer kits with ‘best in class hair care solutions’ to enable both stylists and consumers to create the latest trending styles with flawless hair quality.

Modernised packaging The updated eye-catching and premium

sense of sustainability into its new and

said to be a game-changer in the hair

packaging for Ladine Professional Care

reformulated products to help consumers

care market, providing consumers

features new label designs, which are

save water by combining two rinse-off

with the most effective and gentlest of

audacious yet clean. Each range is

steps into one.

straightening solutions. It’s also launched

pattern and colour coded for simple

Good luck with your relaunch

Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz

Sensetek.indd 1

34

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

2017/03/02 11:50 AM

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION to identifying the suitability

for over three decades. This latest launch

for different hair types on

from the brand is a clear indication it’s not

each product.

getting older but rather getting better.

The science of beauty

science of being beautiful, according to

As a leading and professional

the brand’s education manager, Bongani

hair care brand, Ladine

Mabunda. This is true to Henkel’s vision

believes in enhancing a

to lead with its innovations, brands and

woman’s natural beauty. When

technologies. Innovations are the basis

a woman’s beauty shines

for successfully turning this vision into

from within, she can

reality. They assure the future viability

conquer anything.

and capacity of Ladine Professional Care

Ladine Professional Care is all about the

Ladine also believes in

to adjust proactively in a world where

navigation. The simple design with

providing the best care for consumers’

striking foiling graphics convey the

hair as a continuation of their

message of superior technology and

salon experience.

professionalism within the range. The

change is constant.

Research and development provide the basis for the global company and

The brand understands the most

Ladine Professional Care’s future business

designs are proudly South African,

alluring thing a woman can have is her

portfolio. The research team for Henkel’s

featuring beautiful African graphics.

confidence, giving her the power to

Beauty Care business unit is constantly at

create, nurture and transform. As a result

work to perfect products and processes,

iconography has also been upgraded.

of its focus and success in the markert,

so it can meet consumers’ needs

For years, these icons have been central

Ladine has cared for African women’s hair

even better. •

The easy-to-identify Ladine

Problem solving with silicones

provide a range of speciality raw materials ch finds application in hair, body and skin care.

www.afrisil.com +27 11 465 2892 +27 (0)73 124 0935 +27 (0)82 466 1615

Karin Barends Problem solving with silicones

Wishing the Cell: 073 124 0935 LADINE team a range of speciality We provide raw materials Telephone | (011)body 465 2892 | 073 124 0935 success with application which finds in hair, and skin care.

Delivery Address | 3 Granville Ave solving Lea Glenwith Roodepoort Problem silicones1709 their new launch!

Postal Address | PO Box 269, Northriding, 2162

We provide a range of speciality raw materials Wewhich provide range of in speciality materials findsaapplication hair, body raw and skin care. with silicones which finds application in hair, Problem body solving and skin care.

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11 2892 465 2892 +27 11+27 465 +27 (0)73 124 0935 +27 (0)73 124 0935 +27 (0)82 466 1615 karin@afrisil.com www.afrisil.com

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We provide a range of speciality raw materials +27 11 465 2892 Chemgrit Cosmetics realise that people are +27 (0)73 124 0935 the key to our success, our customers, which finds application in hair, body and skin care. +27 (0)82 466 1615 Problem solving with silicones

eciality raw materials hair, body and skin care.

suppliers and personnel are our future. We believe in operating our business with integrity, efficiency and service excellence.

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We ROAD, provide range of speciality 7 HAROLD FLIGHT We provide a range of speciality rawa materials www.afrisil.com JET PARK, +27 11 465 2892 finds application in hair, bod BOKSBURG, which 1459. which +27 (0)73 finds 124 0935 application in hair, body and skin care.

011 397 4455 / 082 853 7589 CHEMGRIT COSMETICS (PTY) LTD

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CHEMGRIT COSMETICS IS A PROUD SUPPLIER TO LADINE

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

35

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Functional ingredients true to nature

The root of the South African geranium, which Afrplex utilises to produce Afriplex PS70 liquid

Afriplex is continuously innovating and developing new products as it identifies consumer needs as well as market trends and opportunities. The company is proud to announce the birth of three new and unique Afriplex ingredients.

P

elargonium sidoides DC, South

to nutraceutical and food and

African geranium, is a member

beverage markets.

of the Geraniaceae family,

Standardised Honeybush extracts

native to the coastal region

of our country. This rosette like plant has

Honeybush, Cyclopia spp., a

been used in traditional medicine for

DID YOU KNOW?

centuries as a remedy for diarrhoea, dysentery and the serious complications resulting from dysentery.

Moringa oleifera is also widely regarded as the most nutrient-dense plant ever studied.

Afriplex extracts Afriplex C-Ferin 5 and Afriplex C-Ferin 30 from dried sections of the Honeybush plant

Afriplex PS70, Afriplex has added the Afriplex PS70 liquid to its range of active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs).

This API has been subjected to extensive clinical research with conclusive results indicating a reduction in the duration and severity of acute upper respiratory tract infections, including bronchitis, tonsillopharyngitis, sinusitis and the cold.

Afriplex PS70 liquid has been specifically developed for

pharmaceutical formulation in and capsules.

Water soluble moringa powder extract Moringa oleifera is a specie of a tree native to the sub-Himalayan regions in north-western India. The tree is also found in several tropical and sub-tropical regions across Africa, South America and South East Asia.

Moringa leaf is known to contain a spectrum of high nutritive components such as amino acids, vitamins, carbohydrates, minerals, protein and organic acids. Moringa oleifera is also widely regarded as the most nutrient-

Often used in health supplements, moringa powder extract is made from the leaves of the Moringa tree

Africa, has been shown

to possess multifactorial Afriplex has extensive expertise in the development pharmacological of novel plant extracts, activities, including including APIs, as well as in the standardisation antioxidative, antidiabetic, of parameters for the anti-inflammatory, active components in plant extracts. anti-cancer, anti-

syrups, drops, throat sprays In addition to the powder format of

plant endemic to South

dense plant ever studied.

The leaves of this plant naturally contain several B vitamins.

Afriplex has developed a water soluble moringa powder extract now standardised on 100 percent of the nutrient reference values (NRVs) of the following B vitamins: B1; B2; B3; B5; B6; B7; B9 and B12.

ageing, hepatoprotective, cardioprotective and neuroprotective effects.

The plant could also be a healthy alternative to caffeine without the associated side effects. This is due to the major phenolic compound found abundantly in Honeybush, a natural C-glucoside xanthone called Mangiferin.

Research concluded that extracts containing high levels of Mangiferin have been shown to control numerous physiological and central nervous system (CNS) targets, ameliorate insulin resistance, decrease tumour size and protect the body against oxidative stress related damage.

Afriplex has developed two standardised Honeybush extracts, Afriplex C-Ferin 5 and Afriplex C-Ferin 30, containing five and 30 percent Mangiferin respectively.

The Afriplex C-Ferin 5 and Afriplex C-Ferin 30 products can be formulated in powder compounds, syrups, capsules, tablets or tincture drops and are applicable to the health supplements, pharma, cosmetics, veterinary and food and beverage markets.•

This product can be formulated in syrups, capsules, tablets, drops and powder compounds. It is applicable

36

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

Afriplex – www.afriplex.co.za

styling formulations Advancing natural Advancing natural A nude styling sensation Advancing natural styling formulations • • • •

styling formulations styling formulations Advancing natural Provides natural look and sensory on hair Outstanding hair manageability Suitable for natural certified formulations 100% naturally derived A nude styling sensation

styling formulations A A nude nude styling styling sensation sensation • • • •

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Exclusive Agents in South Africa

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Beauty and the body clock Chrono Chardy enhances the action of the clock gene PERIOD1, which promotes moisture in the skin during the day. It also has a positive effect on BMAL1, which improves skin barrier function at night by increasing ceramide transport. These actions work together to reduce wrinkle formation and improve skin brightness.

T

he daily rhythms of modern

Figure 1: Enhancement of clock genes BMAL1 and PERIOD1 expression

people are becoming unstable. Sleep deprivation, psychological stress and poor

sleep quality resulting from excessive smartphone use at night affect the body clock and cause disturbances rhythm to the circadian rhythm.

The central clock is controlled by the suprachiasmatic nucleus (SCN) of the brain and the peripheral clock operates on peripheral tissues such as skin and organs. In addition, there are clock genes that mark time within the cell with the expression of these genes rising and falling over a 24-hour period. This causes the transcription of related genes and protein synthesis to change over time in the cell, creating a circadian rhythm.

It’s been reported that ageing is accelerated by

DID YOU KNOW?

known to amplify body

Chrono Chardy is sourced from one of the best grape-growing regions in Nagano, Japan with 100 percent guaranteed traceability.

suppressing the expression Transepidermal water loss, stratum

external irritation and preventing moisture

purpose of applying this

from escaping. ABCA12 works in the

to cosmetics. Its R&D

epidermal cells as a lipid transporter,

team discovered that a

carrying the ceramide required for optimal

chardonnay grape extract, Chrono Chardy (INCI: Water

(aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol

of the temporal gene BMAL1.

ceramides play important roles in blocking

clock rhythms, with the

(and) Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract), has a mechanism of action

skin barrier function within the lamellar granules (see Figure 2).

The lamellar granules in which ceramide is incorporated by ABCA12 are expelled extracellularly, at the time of

corneum pH and water content,

that enhances body clock rhythms,

terminal differentiation from the granule

sebum production and skin surface

promotes ABCA12 production and

layer to the stratum corneum. In this way,

temperature vary during the day. When

improves skin barrier recovery and

ceramides and other substances move

the function of the circadian clock

wrinkle conditions.

to spaces between cells and become

is suppressed, ageing accelerates,

The clock genes BMAL1 and PERIOD1

resulting in moisture loss and a delay in

are important core genes for marking

barrier recovery.

time within the cells. After stimulating

In tests using HaCat cells (a human

the HaCat cells with the grape extract,

epidermal keratinocyte cell line), the

cells were cultivated for zero, eight, 16,

production of the lipid transporter

24, 32 and 42 hours and total RNA was

ABCA12 was found to be controlled

extracted using a normal method. The

by the body clock. This expression

BMAL1 and PERIOD1 mRNA expression

oscillates in a 24-hour cycle like the

quantity was analysed using the real time

night-time clock gene BMAL1.

qPCR method.

The production of collagen in the

Adding 0.5 percent Chrono Chardy

extracellular matrix also fluctuates

significantly increased BMAL1 mRNA

during the day, as a result of the

expression compared to the control

biological clock influence.

group after eight and 32 hours. The

Enhance the clock genes

intensity of the expression peak of PERIOD1 mRNA increased after 16

Disturbances to the rhythms of the

and 40 hours (see Figure 1). This

body clock are linked to a decrease

data indicates that Chrono Chardy

in intercellular lipids, such as stratum

enhances the body clock rhythms.

corneum ceramide, reducing the ability of the skin barrier to recover and causing wrinkles.

Using HaCat cells, Ichimaru Pharcos screened several plant extracts

38

Promote ABCA12 and FLG gene expression For the stratum corneum barrier function, intercellular lipids such as

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

intercellular lipids.

Figure 2: Lipid transporter ABCA12

INGREDIENT & FORMULATION INNOVATION

Figure 3: Induction of ABCA12 and Filaggrin, Filagglin and HMGCS1 mRNA expression

Chardy significantly increased the

Figure 4: Moisturising Effect

ABCA12 mRNA expression quantity compared to the control (see Figure 3).

The R&D team also investigated the effect of Chrono Chardy on the expression of Filaggrin mRNA in keratinocytes. Results showed the active ingredient enhanced Filaggrin mRNA expression in HaCat cells. This data indicates that Chrono Chardy stimulates barrier formation by regulating the body clock.

Improve the condition of stressed skin A clinical study was conducted to investigate Chrono Chardy’s effects on the recovery of the condition of the skin.

A lotion containing one percent Chrono Chardy was applied to the cheeks of It is known that ABCA12 mRNA

13 male and female volunteers, whose

expression operates according to 24-

age ranged between 30 and 50. In a

hour cycles, at both eight and 32 hours

questionnaire, the volunteers indicated

after serum stimulation in HaCat cells.

they were stressed to a certain level in their

Applied cells with 0.5 percent Chrono

regular lives.

Chardy were cultivated for eight hours,

Skin conditions were compared before

after which ABCA12 mRNA expression

and after the test. The results showed the

and quantity was analysed. Chrono

moisture content in the areas to which

Chrono Chardy was applied increased significantly (see Figure 4) and the stratum corneum conditions were improved including reduced multi-layer exfoliation (Figure 5).

The body clock, by marking time in 24-hour cycles, controls physiological skin functions to express the appropriate activity at the right time. Modern lifestyles make it extremely difficult to maintain high quality sleep and a stress-free, systematic life.

Figure 5: Reducing multi-layer exfoliation

Chrono Chardy is a perfect anti-ageing active ingredient. As an ingredient in various products, it can help care for the skin of modern consumers. By enhancing the rhythm of one’s body clock, it is possible to harness the power of the active ingredient to maintain young and beautiful skin from within.

Unicare Ingredients is the South African agent for Ichimaru Pharcos. •

Ichimaru Pharcos – www.ichimaru.co.jp/english Unicare Ingredients – www.unicare.co.za

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

39

PHARMA FOCUS//Aseptic Processing

Major investment boosts sterile production and creates jobs The Marchesini Group has invested €7 million in the new Corima factory and has created 30 new jobs for technicians and engineers. Based in Tuscany, Italy, the factory produces machinery for packaging pharmaceuticals in aseptic environments. and the creative genius of Tuscany will further enhance our identity as versatile and reliable manufacturers.’

Signs of stability European MP, Carlo Calenda added: ‘A factory that opens is a safe haven in a rough sea. In an increasingly globalised and virtual economic context, ry during Gues ts toured the Corim a facto nded plant the inaug uration of the expa

T

Marchesini is sending an important

Medieval duelling

by Agresto

message of stability and loyalty to the community, starting in Monteriggioni

he plant has doubled in size with

the celebration of Corima’s 40 th

a further 6 000m² of production

anniversary. The company was

facilities. The aim is to meet the

founded in 1979 by Franco Neri,

growing demands of the pharma

Aroldo Cappelletti, Dario Anatrini and Mauro Pometti,

especially for anti-cancer drugs.

when they wasted no time in launching their

role in Marchesini’s expansion strategy.

machine for filling

This multinational enterprise located

and sealing vials. This

in Pianoro, Italy is among the top four

machine can still be

leading global manufacturers of pharma

seen today.

packaging machines. Marchesini is

In 2003, when the

represented locally by MGSA Project.

majority shareholding

In 2018, thanks to Corima’s contribution,

He also reiterated the importance of the continuity of investments in Industry 4.0, which are essential

industry even more efficiently and faster, The aseptic category plays a key

and extending to the world.’

DID YOU KNOW?

for the Marchesini Group.

In April 2018, the group

kicked off its Artificial Experts say the manufacturing processes of Intelligence project at its the future, including aseptic headquarters in Pianoro. processing, will streamline new technologies like robotics, Marchesini conceived artificial intelligence and IoT, this project to launch its into an increasingly closed and connected current vision of Industry production process.

of Corima was taken over,

4.0 – a long-term plan that

aims to create increasingly interlinked and efficient

Marchesini reached a consolidated

Marchesini became the first

turnover of €400 million, of which 85

company in the world to make

machinery, without losing sight of the

percent came from exports.

complete aseptic packaging lines

traditional craftsmanship and the

from start to finish, up to palletisation.

people who really “make”

Marchesini is sending an important message of stability and loyalty

In 2008, Marchesini inaugurated Corima’S factory where it stands

the company.

The official opening also offered

today, contributing to making it one

presented Marchesini employees with

of the most innovative Italian factories

special opportunity to travel to Tuscany

in the packaging industry. The 2019

with their families to celebrate the

expansion is yet another successful

anniversary. Guests were also treated

achievement for a company that for

to a show by Agresto, the cultural

technicians commenced after the

years has continued to add value

association that organises travelling

opening event in October and will

to the Made in Italy brand and the

medieval re-enactments throughout the

continue throughout 2020. The company

production flagship in Tuscany.

main cities of Italy and Europe. The show

Interviews for the 30 new jobs for

will be scouting mostly for newly

‘This new factory will bring new

included court dancing and medieval

graduated mechanical and electrical

lifeblood to a uniquely beautiful

duelling with drum rolls to recount stories

technicians and automation and

and historical land,’ said Maurizio

and legends of the late XIII century. •

IT engineers.

Marchesini, president of the Marchesini Group. ‘We are certain

Celebrating four decades

this new fellowship between the

The inauguration of the expanded

manufacturing expertise of the

plant on 19 October coincided with

packaging valley of Emilia-Romagna

40

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

Marchesini Group – www.marchesini.com MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za

PHARMA FOCUS//Aseptic Processing

Quality technology for containment and safety MG2 is constantly conceiving and developing machines to minimise risks for both the operator and the environment during aseptic processing. As a result, the company has achieved the highest containment levels in pharma manufacturing.

T

he safety levels guaranteed by

and allowing easier cleaning and

MG2 comply with the highest

maintenance operations.

A close up of the RTP port

international standards, starting

to handle high risk pharma products

Innovative technology and solutions

under safe conditions. This compliance

Filters on MG2’s isolators encompass ‘push-

is validated through strict SMEPAC tests,

push’ technology, making it possible to

which confirm MG2 can achieve results

replace them under more practical and

well under 0.1 mg per m³.

totally safe conditions. The cleaned filter is

machine operation, and maximised

simply pushed, from the outside in, into its

coverage of surfaces during washing

achieved as a result of the isolators being

correct position on the isolator. This results in

are additional solutions offered by MG2

perfectly integrated with automatic

the dirty filter being ejected into the isolator,

to satisfy customers’ requirements for

product loading systems and high

where it can then be removed through the

containment and safety, which can be

containment valves.

RTP port, using gloves.

considerably different.

from OEB3 and OEB4 to OEB5,

Maximum containment levels are

One innovation introduced by MG2 in

In addition, in order to guarantee the best

the field of isolators consists of directly

ergonomics for the operator, machines are

fixing suction filters to the isolator. This

developed and tested at an early stage

new location makes it possible to filter

during the mock-up phase.

toxic or active components immediately, preventing contamination of the ducts

Dry cleaning, wet-in-place, automatic and dynamic wash-in-place during

TECHNOLOGY 4.0 IS NOT AN OPTION ANYMORE. NOW IT'S INSTALLED ON ALL OUR MACHINES.

MG2 is represented throughout South Africa by MGSA Projects. •

MG2 – www.mg2.it MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za

Smart Technology on every machine.

Smart Automation for integrated Line Management.

Smart Approach for Business Intelligence activities.

Smart Manufacturing based on Artificial Intelligence.

To provide you with the back up you need to cross the 4.0 bridge to the future, we have designed the ambitious Marchesini Group AI Program where smart technology is standard on every machine.

Discover more about our Artificial Intelligence Program on marchesini.com

Sole Marchesini Group Agent for Southern Africa | MGSA PROJECTS (PTY) LTD Mobile +27 (0) 82 460 2766 Myles@mgsaprojects.co.za www.mgsaprojects.co.za

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

41

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Gloves on, or gloves off ?

A lapse in good hygiene practices could have serious and farreaching consequences. Rentokil weighs up the pros and cons of wearing gloves as a principle of good hand hygiene.

B

ecause contaminated hands

insisting employees wear gloves to

can transfer viruses and

make the best possible decision. There

bacteria to up to 14 other

are a number of factors to take into

subjects, the personal hygiene

consideration. Table 1 lists some of

of employees who handle products

the advantages and disadvantages

destined for public use or consumption

of using gloves in a pharma

must be impeccable to prevent the

manufacturing environment.

spread of germs. It’s critical that anyone in a management role within

How to minimise risks

the manufacturing industry has a solid

For managers who do decide to

understanding of the principles of

implement a ‘gloves on’ policy, there

good hand hygiene and can establish

are some guidelines to try and minimise

and maintain protocols.

unforeseen hygiene risks associated

Along with wearing intact gloves, the most important hygiene precaution is proper hand washing and drying

with gloves as a result of, for example,

One of the more common hand hygiene protocols is, of course, insisting

wearing the same pair of gloves for extended periods or complacency: • create a glove wearing policy and train employees on glove standard operating procedures • wash and sanitise hands before putting on gloves • remove contaminated gloves and replace them with fresh ones when moving between surfaces or products • change gloves immediately

employees who handle products

after coming into contact with a

for human consumption or work in

contaminated material

sensitive manufacturing environments

• do not reuse disposable gloves

DID YOU KNOW?

The type of soap, and in particular the design of the soap dispenser, is another important aspect of the efficacy of hand washing in good hygiene practices.

Source: Journal of Validation Technology

• always dispose of gloves before using the toilet or restroom • understand which type of glove is best suited for the intended purpose • replace gloves every two hours to guard against punctures • ensure wearing of gloves and regular hand washing are seen as complementary activities, rather than mutually exclusive.

It’s safe to say, along with wearing intact gloves, the most important hygiene precaution is proper hand washing and drying. This includes washing hands with hot water and soap, followed by drying with a clean paper towel before putting gloves on and after removing them. Even the best gloves are no substitute for regular, thorough hand washing. •

Rentokil Initial – www.initial.co.za

wear latex gloves. Gloves can play a huge role in the prevention of crosscontamination, and glove compliance is more easily monitored than a hand washing regime. However, there is clear evidence to suggest that gloves do not always prevent pathogens from spreading. This is because gloves themselves can be the source of contamination, just like bare hands.

Gloves clearly aren’t the silver bullet to hand hygiene, and managers should seriously consider both the advantages and disadvantages of

42

Table 1

Advantages of wearing gloves

Disadvantages of wearing gloves

Act as an extra layer over hands that may be contaminated with pathogenic organisms

The wrong sized glove could tear or puncture leading to product contamination due to exposure to skin

Gloves may become contaminated Can be useful if someone returns to work and is themselves and can cause crossrecovering from a virus contamination Compliance is easily monitored

Can create a sense of false security in the mind of the wearer

Protect sensitive hands

May not be changed frequently enough

Improves hand grip

Expensive, leading to an increase in business costs

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

SAFETY & HYGIENE

The quality link between a product and its packaging Public opinion sometimes considers packaging to be superfluous. Yet packaging preserves the stability and quality of medicinal products and protects them against spoilage and tampering.

T

he quality of the packaging of

(i.e. bottles, vials, closures and blisters)

pharmaceutical products plays a

are in direct physical contact with

very important role in the quality of

the product, whereas the secondary

such products. It must:

components, such as aluminium caps

• protect against all adverse external influences that can alter the properties of

and cardboard boxes are not.

The choice of primary and/or

the product, e.g. moisture, light, oxygen

secondary packaging materials will not

and temperature variations

only depend on the degree of protection

• protect against biological contamination

required, compatibility with the contents,

• preserve the physical properties of all

the filling method and cost, but also on

dosage forms and protect them against

the presentation for OTC medicines and

damage or breakage

the convenience of the packaging for

Marsing SA ensures health and safety measures are in place and adhered to through well maintained and monitored storage areas and selfinspection and quality audits

Bad packaging, which is the result of

• not alter the identity of the product.

the user. The latter encompasses the size,

Given the link between the quality of a

weight, method of opening and reclosing

deficiencies in the quality assurance

pharmaceutical product and the quality of

(if appropriate) and legibility of printing.

system for packaging, can have serious consequences, while defects can create

its packaging, pharmaceutical packaging materials and systems must be subject to the

Avoid bad packaging

same quality assurance requirements as the

Packaging materials should be stored

products they house.

in accordance with GMP for storage

control will prevent the release of a

areas. Normal storage conditions are

defective medicinal product. •

problems that may result in drug recalls.

Make the right choices

defined as ‘storage in dry, well-ventilated

A distinction must be made between

premises at temperatures of 15 to 25°C

primary and secondary packaging

or, depending on climatic conditions, up

components. The primary components

to 30°C.

Ultimately, the use of GMP and quality

Marsing SA – www.marsing-sa.com

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吀攀氀 ⬀㈀㜀 ⠀ ⤀ ㄀㄀ 㐀㘀㈀ 㘀㤀㄀㌀ 簀 䔀洀愀椀氀 椀渀昀漀䀀洀愀爀猀椀渀最ⴀ猀愀⸀挀漀洀

眀眀眀⸀洀愀爀猀椀渀最ⴀ猀愀⸀挀漀⸀稀愀

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

43

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Protection against contamination

Pressure measuring instruments control process pressure; serve as leak detection; are used to control pumps, filters and cleaning processes and to monitor fill levels. Joachim Zipp of Wika Instruments discusses how to maintain the sterile boundary within every phase of the pharma production process.

I

n the sensitive processes of the

steel or other special material, the

pharma industry, the human

measuring instrument itself and the

risk factor must be reduced to a

system fill fluid, being either glycerine

minimum. These plants operate

or paraffin oil that conforms to the GMP

almost fully automatically, with

guidelines. The diaphragm takes the

process control based on electronic

pressure and transmits it hydraulically

instruments and systems. Transmitters,

to the transmitter, programmable

programmable transmitters and

transmitter or switch. The measuring

switches are instruments used for

instrument is permanently separated

pressure measurement.

from the process and delivers an

In addition to reliable measured value registration and processing, the measuring instruments used should

accurate measuring result, protected from influences.

Diaphragm seals offer a high

be robust, low maintenance and easy

operational flexibility; almost all

to operate – not only for economic

instruments can be connected

reasons. These characteristics support

hygienically to a process. The

the process safety in terms of the end

instrumentation is accurately custom

product. Investigations have shown the

sized for the corresponding requirement.

majority of damage to instruments that

This is an advantage over measuring

via the ventilation and contaminate the

might lead to product contamination is

instruments with ceramic sensors, which,

sensor. By using diaphragm seals the

due to incorrect handling. Other reasons

for example, are often only available

process always remains preserved, even

include damage caused by corrosion

with high-value transmitters not suitable

when a diaphragm is compromised,

or unforeseeable events such as an

for all applications.

maintaining the sterile boundary. contaminated even with a sealed

for applications in the pharma industry.

The ins and outs of ceramic sensors

The diaphragm seal system consists of

The primary reason for using ceramic

accuracy, the thickness of the seal’s

a diaphragm seal made from stainless

sensors in sanitary applications is

diaphragm is limited. As a result, long-

their high accuracy. The pressure

term overloading in the process can lead

measurement is made directly with

to deformations and, with that, to dead

a flush-mounted capacitive sensor

spaces. At these points, product particles

without any system fill fluid which might,

can settle and microbes may form.

in the event of any damage, find its way

A Wika programmable process transmitter with diaphragm seal

process. Due to the measurement

With ceramic sensors, a weak point

into the process. In comparison to the

can occur in the sealing between

metallic diaphragms of diaphragm seals,

the sensor and the metallic process

ceramic sensors are considered to have

connection. Substances can diffuse

a higher resistance to shear forces or

into the seal and can be released with

corrosion in the long term. Failure of a

the next process stage. The seal can

ceramic sensor would immediately be

be overstrained with high temperature

recognised by the operator by signal loss.

dynamics and a gap opened up at the

With a diaphragm seal system that

process connection, creating a point

has a damaged diaphragm, the

for potential deposits. If these remain

measuring process still functions. The

undetected, they can be transferred to

damaged seal goes undetected until a

subsequent processes. This undetected

visual inspection is completed.

cross-contamination usually has

Ceramic sensors are not immune to damage. This can occur through hard water and steam hammer in the process

44

Image courtesy of Ulf Salzmann

Yet products can become

excessive pressure surge.

Diaphragm seal solutions are used

Mobile tanks in pharmaceutical production

serious regulatory and economic consequences with costs in the millions.

or by an abrupt thermal cycling, for

A patented problem solver

example during a sterilisation process.

In highly sensitive processes, pressure

If the ceramic shatters, external air and

measuring instruments are removed after

foreign matter can enter the process

each batch and checked for damage.

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Yet this adds costs to the manufacturing

every measuring point has to be catered

process. To address the issue, Wika has

for electronically. For such cases,

developed a diaphragm seal system

diaphragm pressure gauges with flush

with a dual diaphragm and diaphragm

diaphragms are particularly worthwhile.

monitoring, which removes risks and

These enable the measurement of low

consequential damages. Using this

pressures and are exceptionally safe

patented system, the space between

in overload as a result of their design.

the two diaphragms is evacuated and

They keep the process sealed, even with

the vacuum can be monitored with a

pressure surges.

measuring instrument.

The type of monitoring can be specified individually, depending on the sensitivity of the process The type of monitoring can be

Diaphragm pressure gauges are suitable mainly for mobile tanks, in which intermediate and end products are stored or transported to the next processing stage. They monitor filling and the inert gas blanket.

As the pharma industry is increasingly turning to the development and manufacture of individual medicines, the

specified individually, depending on

dimensions of its containers are getting

the sensitivity of the process. With

smaller and smaller. Processes with

regular on-site visual inspection, it is

small units and batches are the result,

sufficient to check a pressure gauge

and the measuring instruments for the

with green-red display. In other cases,

corresponding tanks have limited space

an optical or acoustic alarm in the

available. This can quickly become tight

control room may be required. When

for diaphragm pressure gauges – the

using media with high-risk potential,

lower the pressure to be measured, the

the operator can use a pressure switch,

larger the diaphragm diameter and

which will immediately halt the process

process connection must be.

in the event of any damage.

Should the wetted diaphragm become

A mechanical Wika pressure gauge with diaphragm monitoring for mobile tanks

up to +134°C, without needing to be dismounted. The process remains sealed, even in the mobile phase, and quality assurance is preserved.

The more critical the process, the more important it is to consistently maintain the sterile boundary. Risk prevention has, with the measurement technology used, an equally high requirement as accuracy and reliability of the process. The particular challenge is to merge the technical functionality

To address this problem, Wika has

and physical design features into an

developed the PG43SA-C pressure

economical solution. •

damaged, the second diaphragm

gauge for small external areas. This

forms a reliable seal to the process and

model measures in the low-pressure

maintains pressure monitoring until the

ranges with a proportionately much

damage has been rectified. As a break

smaller diaphragm. It combines the

in the system is detected and reported

reduced connection size with a further

immediately, no microbes can get past

specific feature particularly important for

the diaphragm undetected.

such measuring requirements on tanks,

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Joachim Zipp is the global market segment manager for food and pharma at Wika Instruments.

making it autoclavable.

Diaphragm pressure gauges

The pressure gauge can be sterilised

In spite of the extremely high level of

with the vessel under saturated

automation in pharma processes, not

steam conditions at temperatures

Wika Instruments – www.wika.co.za

GLOBAL COSMETIC PRODUCT REGULATORY COMPLIANCE SOLUTIONS Intertek provides a comprehensive range of services for beauty and personal care products to ensure quality, safety, efficacy and regulatory compliance. Partnering with Intertek helps brands and producers to speed up their international growth, optimise the quality and safety of their supply chain and reduce total costs.

Our Services Include: • Literature Review & Data Collection • Toxicological Profiles of Ingredients • Regulatory Dossiers • Toxicological Safety Assessment • Labelling Reviews

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intertek.com/cosmetics/ global-reg-compliance-forcosmetic-products/

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

45

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Select the right floor for the job When selecting flooring options for areas where health and safety are priorities, there are several important considerations to take into account.

Tandy Coleman, CEO of Polyflor SA, says the most important factor should be to ensure an impervious floor, which allows for an infection-free environment.

F

looring should be properly

and plays a huge role in reducing

are recorded in countries that typically

installed on a good substrate.

the risk of contamination.

have a population of 60 to 70 million

‘Over the consideration to

‘Easily maintained floor sheeting is

aspects such as aesthetics,

people. This equates to approximately

a great help. It is also environmentally

37 percent of all total accidents. Apart

you should also use a slip-resistant

responsible as it facilitates less use of

from costing the economy in excess

floor covering in areas that have a

water, chemicals and electricity, thus

of R12.5 billion per annum, a further

high slip risk,’ comments Coleman.

dramatically reducing maintenance

R8.5 billion is lost annually by employers

costs,’ adds Coleman.

due to down time.

According to Polyflor, one of the leading suppliers of floors to the healthcare, retail, commercial and hospitality industries, vinyl floors and luxury vinyl tiles allow for great design potential as they offer many types of finishes and options – from bright to muted colours, wood-look to rock-like or

A vinyl floor with a PUR coating

DID YOU KNOW?

and the correct cleaning regime, you can ensure

safer, cleaner Worldwide, stair accidents contribute floor surfaces. immensely to injury on duty ‘Bacteria require statistics as most falls occur warmth, moisture as the result of an overstep when walking down stairs. and a carrier to The use of non-slip stair breed. Excessive wet nosing and treads is highly recommended mopping or scrubbing to prevent creates an ideal stair accidents. situation for the growth

concrete finishes.

‘Vinyl flooring meets all of the

of bacteria unless stringently controlled. Using PUR coated

‘The importance of choosing the correct and sustainable safety flooring can’t be over emphasised,’ Coleman advises, ‘for this reason, many countries have begun introducing legislation that requires flooring in public areas to be installed according to fixed safety regulations.’

Slip resistance in floors is created through using multiple types of aggregates, such as silicon carbide, which creates more friction between the shoe sole and the floor.

Coleman explains: ‘In a good quality,

important requirements without

flooring together with the correct

sustainable and slip resistant flooring

compromising on the quality or the

maintenance regime, substantially

product, the aggregate granules are

functionality of the floors. However,

reduces the necessity for wet

not merely sprinkled on the top layer but

certain steps still need to be taken to

scrubbing and will assist in infection

appear throughout the thickness of the

ensure you have a hygienic, easily

and cost control,’ she says.

product. This gives the floors long term,

maintained flooring installation that reduces the risk of infection,’ she says.

By installing floor sheeting securely on a level and dry surface, you

sustainable wear and slip resistance.’

Ramps; wet areas such as ablutions,

can significantly lower the risk

sterilising areas, kitchens and sluice

Healthy floors, healthy lives

of contamination. Dust and dirt

rooms; and stairs are some of the

Vinyl sheet flooring offers the best

accumulate in hollows and dips,

high-risk areas where slip resistant

possible solution for creating a

which act as a carrier and add to the

floors should be installed to prevent

hygienic, safe and easy to maintain

aforementioned risk, especially when

serious injury.

environment. Good quality correctly

only using wet cleaning methods.

fitted vinyl floors, which meet

Having the flooring coved up the

Know what lies beneath

international standards, prevent

walls also inhibits bacterial growth.

Before installation, ensure the substrate

bacteria growth and are easy to clean and look after.

The maintenance of the floor is an essential part of the hygiene process

46

is level, dry and firm by using a good

Avoid slipping and tripping

quality self-levelling compound, correctly

Each year, as many as 8 500

mixed and applied by a flooring

accidents caused by ‘slips and trips’

contractor. It’s important to make sure

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

SAFETY & HYGIENE

A much safer environment is created by specifying safety flooring in high risk areas

Vinyl flooring from Polyflor SA

Buyer’sguide

THE

In a good quality, sustainable and slip resistant flooring product, the aggregate granules appear throughout the thickness of the product

good quality welding is essential. Welds

colour combinations and finishes, so

should be correctly trimmed twice to

that you can achieve the look you want

ensure they are smooth and level with

without sacrificing on health or safety.

the flooring and to give the strongest

We guide clients through the entire

possible join without becoming a

selection and installation process to

dirt trap.

ensure the final product surpasses their

‘By specifying safety flooring in high

expectations and remains a beautiful,

risk areas, a much safer environment

practical investment for many years to

your installer has used the proper

is created which protects employees

come,’ Coleman concludes. •

installation method of ‘overlap, scribe

and visitors alike from unnecessary and

and cut’ to butt join sheets. There should

potentially costly slips and falls. Modern

never be any gaps between sheets and

vinyl floors are available in a variety of

2017/2018

Polyflor SA – www.polyflor.co.za

THE

Buyer’sguide

2018/2019 2019/2020

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

2018/05/07 3:09 PM

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

47

SAFETY & HYGIENE

Insulated impact traffic doors provide efficient flow Industrial insulated doors that open easily, operate smoothly and allow for the safe passage of personnel and equipment are a must have in manufacturing and packing environments. The SR 9000 impact traffic doors from Apex Strip Curtains & Doors are engineered to meet the needs of high traffic areas in warehouses or production facilities.

2

1

B

ottlenecks often occur when the

vehicles and carts, as well as

volume of traffic increases inside

reduce stress on hardware and

facilities. This can lead to a

mount assemblies.

decrease in functionality as well

as productivity.

Wim Dessing, sales executive of Apex

The patented honeycomb framework and flexible urethane foam insulation superior soundproofing qualities. This

ensure traffic is allowed to pass through

characteristic makes the Apex SR 9000

openings in an unhindered manner to

doors an ideal choice for use in noise

alleviate any issues.

sensitive areas.

stop, open, move through and manual actions that traditional single, one-way swing doors require,’ he says.

The Apex SR 9000 insulated impact traffic door combines functionality with longevity and opens with a simple hand push or on impact from a cart

Even with its lightweight construction, the Apex SR 9000 door is engineered and manufactured to be robust The three millimetre ABS skin retains

or vehicle such as a forklift truck. After

its physical properties in temperatures

traffic has passed through, the door then

as low as -40°C, making it ideal for cold

automatically closes.

storage facilities. The low maintenance skin is impervious to moisture, acids,

Patented for optimum stability

petroleum products, animal fats,

Even with its lightweight construction,

rodent, insects and salt solutions and

the Apex SR 9000 door is engineered

is easily and quickly cleaned for rapid

and manufactured to be robust. Adding

turnaround time.

to its durability and low maintenance the door panels are bull nosed with a

Design elements to meet your needs

minimum radius of eight millimetres. This

There is a great possibility that high

prevents excessive wear on the edges.

volumes of traffic can result in accidents

requirements, the perimeter edges on

High bumpers are fitted to the door panel to further absorb impact from

48

1: The Apex SR 9000 insulated impact traffic door combines functionality with longevity 2: Measuring principle of a mechanical diaphragm pressure gauge 3: High bumpers are fitted to the door panel to further absorb impact from forklifts and carts

give the door optimum stability and

Strip Curtains & Doors, says it is critical to

‘One of the first steps is to eliminate the

3

in a manufacturing environment. This is mitigated by the inclusion of standard

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

vision panels in the Apex SR 9000 doors.

Constructed from three millimetre clear polycarbonate sheeting, the panels are available in a number of custom sizes.

They are also scratch-resistant and UBC compatible.

The optimum mounting position of the windows on the doors allows for enhanced visibility, in accordance with safe operational requirements. For refrigerated areas, double panel vision panels can be installed.

‘As with all applications, it is important to ascertain the optimum design elements for each customer’s specific needs. Our team of agents located throughout South Africa is available to offer technical and installation support to ensure the longevity of Apex SR 9000 doors combined with enhanced productivity within any workplace or warehouse environment,’ Dessing concludes. •

Apex Strip Curtains & Doors – www.apexstrip.co.za

ASSOCIATION NEWS//

AMA hosts a premium golf day

T

he annual golf day of the Aerosol

to the value of about R58 000 were sponsored for

Manufacturers’ Association is one the

the fourballs and individual winners. The winning

industry’s most well attended social

fourball was the Puregas team, consisting of Dries

events. It took place on 16 October at the

Swanepoel, Rayhan Mayet, Feddie Mamadi and

Johannesburg Country Club Woodmead.

This year’s golf day was a massive success thanks

Darius Meyer.

Check out some of the highlights from the event

to support from the players, sponsors and the venue.

in the AMA golf day gallery. The photographs were

Living up to its status as a premium event, prizes

captured and supplied by On Par Golf Events. •

A great day out with the AMA

P C Review | NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 |

49

Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive

+27 (0)82 976 6541

Carla Melless Sales executive

+27 (0)83 260 6060

Test your general knowledge in our holiday trivia 1. In what decade did Coca-Cola start using Santa Claus in advertisements?

6. True or false – the month of January was named after the Roman God, Julius?

2. What day will New Year's Day fall on in 2020?

7. Which colour is strongly associated with the Chinese New Year?

3. What does the word 'Hallow' mean?

4. Which chemical compound is traditionally used in Christmas crackers to make them bang?

Càndida Giambò-Kruger Sales executive

5. In the song Twelve Days of Christmas, what is given on the seventh day?

8. Tidings is an old-fashioned word meaning what?

9. Of which spooky family is Uncle Fester a member?

10. What Christmas themed ballet premiered in Saint Petersburg, Russia in 1892?

+27 (0)71 438 1918 1920s, Wednesday, saint or holy person, silver fulminate, swans a-swimming, false (Janus is the Roman God), red, news, the Addams Family, the Nutcracker

ADVERTISERS' INDEX

Answers

06 Agencies SA........................................ 19.........www.o6southafrica.com Afrisil Speciality Ingredients.....................35.........www.afrisil.com BASF Holdings South Africa .................. OBC.........www.carecreations.basf.com Canbigold..................................................5.........www.canbigold.com Chemgrit Cosmetics................................35.........www.chemgritcosmetics.co.za Clomark...................................................33.........www.clomark.com Ethanol.sa...............................................21.........www.scentburst.ethanolsa.co.za Floraison................................................ IFC.........www.floraison.net Hexachem ..............................................29.........www.hexachem.co.za IMCD SA ...........................................32, 37.........www.imcdgroup.com Intertek Deutschland................................45.........www.intertek.com

50

| NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2019 | P C Review

Marsing SA .......................................25, 43.........www.marsing-sa.co.za Messe Düsseldorf......................................9.........www.germanchamber.co.za MGSA Projects......................................... 41.........www.mgsaprojects.co.za Nautica Organic Trading ......................... 18.........www.nauticaorganics.com Savannah Fine Chemicals........................27.........www.savannah.co.za Sensetek .................................................34.........www.sensetek.co.za South African Trade Promotions .............. 15.........john.t@satp.co.za Symrise SA ........................................... OFC.........www.symrise.com Unicare Ingredients.................................39.........www.unicare.co.za Wacker Chemicals ..................................28.........www.wacker.com/personalcare

Online

INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS

COSCHEM

Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.

Visitors to the Society of

Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery

Cosmetic Chemists’ website will

Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,

find information on membership,

Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and

educational programmes

other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin

(specific details pertaining to the

& Derivatives

Cosmetic Science Training), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the

Tel: 010 595 9690

cosmetics and toiletries industries.

Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za

www.coschem.co.za

M&L LABORATORY

DALGEN

M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an

Dalgen is a leading supplier of high-quality glass containers,

extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing

plastic containers, closures and packaging accessories.

services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za

Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za

Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com

FORMPAK

BRB SILICONES

For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,

The largest independent producer in the world of

packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.

Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com

H&R AFRICA Your world's leading supplier of top quality mineral oils, petroleum jellies, and paraffin waxes, as well as customer-specific formulations.

If you want to come out top you have to partner with the world's top leaders. Connect with us to see how we can connect your business to the world.

core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.

www.brb-international.com

QUANTUM COLOURS SA Your No. 1 industry leader for the most comprehensive ranges of both synthetic and natural colours – used in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and industrial applications.

Tablet coatings – manufactured,

113 Trinidad Road, Island View Bluff, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +2731 466 8700 Fax: +2731 466 8716/7 Email: sasales@hur.com Website: www.hur.com

supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC

www.quantumcolours.com

For Anna, Naomi, and Carl, living in the city and being connected to nature are not mutually exclusive. They live and love a green life.

Their stories. Your products.

Our commitment.

Life-loving consumers want to trust in a bright and life-friendly future. To satisfy these inner needs we are deeply committed to achieving greater sustainability. BASF’s Care Creations™ will support your sustainability strategy with ingredients that are ecologically sourced, conserve resources or help avoid negative environmental or social impact. Promise.

Every story matters. carecreations.basf.com/sustainability