2:8 APR-MAY 2018
A ‘Catholic Capital’ in a bog
CONTENT No 2, VOL.8, APRIL - MAY 2018
TRADITION
6 Plate flower displays a fading relic of the past HORTICULTURE
8 Hanoi April Loa Ken FOOD
10 Where glutinous buns are offered to Hung Kings RITUALS
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12 Ramuwan and Cham Bani people in Ninh Thuan Province
ARCHITECTURE
15 A ‘Catholic Capital’ in a bog PHOTOGRAPHY
20 The keeper of the soul PEOPLE
24 Pham Van Hang - The eden where dreams take shape
MUSIC
26 Hue bids farewell to its beloved singer HUE FESTIVAL
28 Art show to gain fairness for Hue’s founders 32 34 36 38
CRAFTS
Straw mat trade village is over 500 years old WHAT THE PAPER SAY EVENTS
DIRECTIONS
Cover photograph: Phat Diem Church. Photo: Pham Thi Ai Nghia Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam
Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang Managing Editor: Kha Tu Anh; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson, Le Hoai Nam ; Assistant: Van Thanh Nga, Nguyen Dang Khoa; Designer: Thanh Binh; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Nguyen Ba Ngoc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Email: tapchidisanvietnam@gmail.com & vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com; Thuy Phuong 0969 47 3579 Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999 Nha Trang Advertising and Subscription: Bach Cat Co. Ltd,; 22/6A Bach Dang Str. Nha Trang City Tel: (58) 360 7070 Fax (58) 387 0099, Email: bachcatprco.ltd@gmail.com Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148
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A Co Tu Goul House Dong Giang District, Quang Nam Province Photo: Le Van
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Plate flower displays a fading relic of the past TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LE BICH
n the occasions of New Year’s, new moon, full moon and commemoration of dead relatives, the Vietnamese always have on the altar a plate of flowers and another one with betel and areca. Writer Bang Son once wrote, ‘The plate normally contains many kinds of flowers. Plucked from their twig, the lone flowers lie on a dry, clean plate. It can be a fragrant white lily, a sweet magnolia or an elusively aromatic acacia. Sometimes, it may be a cholorantus, a wild daisy, a dahlia or even a bunch of dried flowers. In scarce seasons, even some cockscomb can also be seen here. The flower content and amount depend on the season and weather.’ Bang Son’s writing about flower plates seems so distant, so lost in oblivion. I and many I know never use anything other than vases to arrange flowers, no matter the purpose. But after some inquiries, I leaned that in Hanoi there are still at least two places that sell plate flowers for the altar: Mrs. Thu’s on Hang Khoai Street and Mrs Xay at Quang An flower bazaar. Mrs Thu has been selling flowers on Hang Khoai Street since she was 13, that is, for
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TRADITION 63 years. ‘I remember selling gladioli to French ladies.’ Mrs Thu’s so called shop consists of just a few plastic baskets and a bucket full of water, all lined up along the sidewalk. From January to April, Mrs Thu sells pomelo flowers and jasmines. From April to July she sells YlangYlang, cananga, magnolia, jasmines and peonies. March-April, which is the pomelo blossom season, she ties 3-5 small branches into bundles and sells them for about 15 thousand dongs a bundle. People like these flowers for their pure beauty and noble aroma. A plate of flowers can stay fresh for 3-5 days. For just about 30-50 thousand dongs one can have champaca, magnolia, peony and cananga, plus betels and areca. Put all on a single plate and place on the altar for the new moon or full moon celebration, and you have a job well done. Mrs. Thu always has fresh flowers suitable for the seasons. From Mrs Thu’s shop I came to visit Mrs Xay’s at Quang An flower bazaar. Mrs Xay had two flat baskets of mixed flowers: peonies, Ylang-Ylang, roses and areca spadices. Interestingly, Mrs Xay still wraps the flowers in a canna leaf and ties the bundle with a bamboo strip like in the old days. ‘People used to buy a lot, so I used to peddle in the streets. Early morning the new moon or full moon days, I just hung the bundle on their doors and collected the money later.’ So, I wonder since when did people start offering flowers in a plate? And is there anyone who still does so? I am told that the plate flowers should have special fragrance. A child of flower village of Ngoc Ha, with several ancestral generations growing and selling flowers, Mrs Thu remarks, ‘It seems irreversible. Two generations before me and mine used to offer flowers in plates, but my kids and grand kids don’t. On the occasions of New Year, new moon, full moon and others my family always has three flower plates offered on the
altar: one for the ancestors, one for the grandparents and one for the parents. We used to collect wild flowers such as pergularia, ngâu (Aglaia duperreana) or cholorantus too. But now they don’t buy those anymore.’ While Mrs Thu told her story, a few young people came to buy flowers. A 30-ish woman said, ‘Offering flowers in a plate was my mother’s habit. We just keep on doing so.’ Mrs Thu added, ‘Nowadays some youth buy my flowers just to please their senses, not for offerings.’ Offering flowers in a plate is simple and delicate. It shows respect and gratitude in an elegant way. Bang Son said ‘A rich tray is just one way to express one’s feelings.’ What a pity if this will one day be all gone.n
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HORTICULTURE
alking Hanoi streets is always so blissful. And I have spotted here and there bicycles peddling white lilies. The snow-white color of the flowers again announces the arrival of April. White lilies’ pure elegance stands for feminine beauty. Introduced to Vietnam from abroad, called the western lily and adored by the prerevolution youth, it became even more cherished after being painted by the artist To Ngoc Van in his renowned ‘Girl with a lily’. Later, to avoid confusing it with the tuberoses, which are used mostly for spiritual purposes, they began calling it the funnel flower. Knowing that white lilies only bloom in April, and then disappear just as inconspicuously as they appeared, the flower lovers dedicate the whole month to enjoying them. The White lily is planted mostly in Quang An and Tay Tuu villages, North Tu Liem district of Hanoi. A long-time lily grower at Tay Tuu told me lily bulbs are planted in August and the flower is harvested in April. It’s an arduous process requiring constant attention and care. First of all, the bulbs must be good. This amounts to 50-70% chances of success. As the delicate buds appear they must be supported by strings. Furthermore they have to be covered at night because cold fog may cause black spots on the petals, making the flowers worthless. A good flower must be immaculate white, tall, and with lush green leaves. Lily growing is not a profitable business. A bulb costs VND400 a piece and takes 8 months of constant care to yield flowers which sell only for VND1,000-VND1,500 a piece. Quang An and Tay Tuu women laboriously water, trim and take all sorts of care of the flowers to finally cutand sell them at Quang An flower wholesale night bazaar. From there, the flowers follow other women to wherever buyers can be found. The white lilies have somehow become a part of Hanoi in spring. And the bicyclers peddling them around the city are now a very specific feature of April in Hanoi. n
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Hanoi April
Loa Ken TEXT AND PHOTOS BY LE BICH
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FOOD
Where glutinous buns are offered to Hung Kings BY MAI CHIEN
Since the beginning of time, glutinous cakes and buns have always held a special place in Vietnamese hearts. Representing the ‘round sky and square earth’ that gave birth to the universe in between, they are a part of our Vietnamese faith and reverence of the Hung Kings and ancestors. On the 10th of the 3rd lunar month every year, in Mo Chu Ha Village, Bach Hac Commune, Viet Tri Township of Phu Tho Province, pestles and mortars get busy making glutinous buns for the celebration of Hung, the nation’s ancestor. The story of glutinous cakes and buns Once upon a time, during the reign of King Hung the 6th (about 2,700 BC), having defeated the An aggressors, the King wanted to pass the throne on to a heir. As the New Year approached, the King told his sons, ‘The one among you who makes the best and most meaningful food items to offer on the ancestral altar will be my heir.’ The princes immediately dispersed to all corners of the country, looking for the rarest and most precious things to offer to their father. Only the 18th prince named Lang Lieu stayed home, spending time in deep thoughts.
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On the cold bright night of the last full moon of the year, coming to the fork of the Bach Hac River where the soil was rich with sediments and folk worked hard all year round in happy harmony, Lang Lieu suddenly sensed a familiar aroma from a nearby paddy. It was the sweet smell of a crop of October sticky rice. It was an awakening that led him to what he was looking for. The day finally came for the princes to pay tokens of gratitude to their father. As the sun approached the western horizon, the King still had not found the adequate offering that his heart desired. Then entered Lang Lieu with his tray,
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humbly approaching and kow-towing and wishing longevity for the King. Then he modestly removed the red cloth covering his tray. The whole court was in awe at what they saw. On the tray there were only a square green cake and a white round bun. But the King was thrilled: ‘None of us has ever seen any of these. This purely white round bun must represent the Sky, and the green square cake the Earth. Your offering encompasses Yin and Yang, Father and Mother, Heaven and Earth!’ ‘The pure white color of the heaven means beautiful sky and favourable weather. The earth is green with rice paddies and green pea fields, and juicy with
CRAFTS the meat inside. Those are all the riches that human hands produce.’ The King came over to Lang Lieu, put a hand on his head and proclaimed him the successor to the throne. The court hailed the father King’s longevity and the young King’s long years of wise reign. The 18th prince ascended to the throne as King Hung Huy Vuong or King Hung the 7th. The King’s bun rice pounding rite Like many others, the Mo Chu Ha Village Festival educates young generations about the ground breakers, the pioneers who taught people to cultivate rice and cherish the resources granted by heaven and earth. Mr Nguyen Duc Manh, head of relic site management of Mo Chu Ha Village told me, ‘Until now, our villagers have preserved our ancestral way of pounding sticky rice with stone mortar and bamboo pestles. That’s the best way to make the best sticky rice bun, and not every place can do it.’ As Mo Chu Ha villagers showed us, the preparations for bun making to offer to Hung Kings are really painstaking. First, the sticky rice is screened for identical large round shiny grains. Secondly, the pestles should be made of male bamboo which is old enough to be tough so the fibers at the end don’t burst, but not so old as to lose elasticity. Thirdly and most importantly they must make a healthy oil to lubricate the mortar and pestles so the buns don’t get stuck to them. Customs dictate that the young men of the bun-pounding teams enter the scene under the rhythmic commands of the host. Under each command, they must hold out their pestle at the shoulder level and bow. They must bow four times: first to heaven, then to the earth, then to the host deity of the festival, and lastly to the festival-goers. After that, at drum beats, steamed rice is poured into the mortars. The crowd begins cheering as the pestles move up and Photos: A contest of wrapping and cooking sticky rice buns to celebrate ‘Death Anniversary of the Hung Kings; the 10th of the third lunar month, Phu Tho Province. Photos: Ngo Du
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down rhythmically over the milky white flesh of rice. The heat intensifies. Each team consists of five men. One has to hold down his pestle like a center shaft. The other four pound the rice around. A technically versed and well-coordinated team can finish a five to seven kg batch of rice in ten minutes. ‘Women are not allowed to hold the pestles and pound the rice, because these are buns to offer to Hung Kings. Even the men must be selected among the most robust ones to be strong enough to pound the sticky rice for ten minutes,’ Mr Hanh explained. High skills and well-coordinated efforts perform wonders. Before long, mounds of sticky masses are transformed into cute little round white buns nested in a patch of banana leaf and displayed on a plate. ‘A good bun must have translucent white color, fresh and precious like a gem. It has to be round, flat in the middle and well formed on the edges,’ Mr Hanh added. After millennia of history the people of Mo Chu Ha have managed to preserve their buns’ form, taste and flavour to offer to Hung Kings on the nation’s big occasions.n
Viet Tri City, where Mo Chu Ha Village Bun Festival takes place, is located is about 90km from Hanoi. Everyday many buses from My Dinh bus terminal and Noi Bai International Airport take passengers to Viet Tri. Ticket prices range between VND120,000-140,000. At Viet Tri visitors can combine learning about the festival with paying a visit to the Hung Kings Temple complex, Vietnam’s Special Historical Relic Site.
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RITUALS
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At the Ramuwan Festival of Cham people, Ninh Thuan Province, July, 2013. Photos: Duong Quang Tin
RAMUWAN AND CHAM BANI PEOPLE IN NINH THUAN PROVINCE BY INRASARA
amuwan is the name of the most important festival in cultural and spiritual life of Bani Muslims, mostly Cham by ethnicity, in Ninh Thuan Province. The festival takes place during the whole 9th month of the Islamic calendar, in order to protect traditional cultural values of Cham people, at the same time to educate young generations to live a good life, please the gods and build a strong Cham community. The Ramuwan festival includes many spiritual rites dedicated to the gods and the ancestors. These rites include cleaning and decorating ancestral graves, rice offering, body-purifying and praying at the mosques.
The visit to the graves In the month of Ramuwan, Cham Bani families visit the graves in the clan’s cemeteries. They bring sacrificial
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RITUALS items such as betel and areca, fruits, sweets, tobacco and tea. After a year, grass grows thick on the pathways, and the rains and winds almost level the graves and the furrows between them. So the first thing they do is to weed the whole cemetery and heap up the graves with sand to make the rows and columns look neat. A cleric ranked Po Acar splashes holy water on every grave stone. Men who have passed the aia karak ritual sit beside the graves, read prayers and invite the ancestral souls to come for the descendants to pay their respect. Women in white dresses and white Bram shawls pray with them while younger people sprawl on the ground. A family may have to visit graves in many different cemeteries, some of which may be far away from their home. But they never omit any of the graves. That is a cultural characteristic of the Cham people, a beautiful gesture to show their gratitude towards their ancestors. The rice offering During the month of Ramuwan, each Cham Bani household dedicates a space for the visiting ancestors to rest. It is usually a trestle bed on which they put a few pillows, some betels and areca, a tea pot, some fruits and sweets. Before the rice offering ritual, an elder man of the family prays to the family
ancestors on behalf of the whole household and invites them to come and share their meal. The sacrificial offerings are very simple, including fish, boiled chicken rice wine, betels and areca, and some rice-based dishes. The offering is conducted by a Po Acar clergyman and a man of the house who has passed the aia karak ritual. The offerings are put in two trays: - The vegetarian tray includes puddings, rice, sticky rice cake and sakaya cake. - The non-vegetarian tray includes boiled chicken, rice and other delicacies. The ancestors, one by one, are invited by name. The ritual may take quite some time if the family has a long list of ancestors. Each invitee is offered one vegetarian and one nonvegetarian dish. Each time, after the dishes are offered, the women and other descendants kow-tow and pray to the ancestor, asking them for good health, good business, peace in the family, happiness and prosperity in life. Having done with all the ancestors, they burn aloe wood and read a prayer to finish the ritual. The body cleansing rite Cham people are especially scrupulous about body cleanliness. Humans may not be able to keep their body and soul clean during the whole year. So before entering the
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mosque, every Cham Bani Muslim must perform the body cleansing ritual to remove all the impurities, bad luck and ailments of the old year in order to be ready to receive the good fortune the new year would bring. This ritual is performed by an elder person in the family for all other family members. Each family has a tank of water scented with crêpe ginger and aloe wood ready before hand. In the afternoon of the first day the clergymen come to the mosque to practice fasting, a round of drum beats announces that all Muslims must cleanse their body. Family members in the descending order of age take turns to come to the tank, scoop the water and cleanse their face three times. Body cleansing completed, they are now allowed to come to the mosque to make offerings and pray. The fasting of the Po Acar clergy Bani Islam is a local religion typical of the Cham people of Ninh Thuan and Binh Thuan provinces. In parallel with Allah, Bani Cham also worship their ancestors. Therefore the fasting of the Cham communities is quite different from that practiced by other Muslims in Southeast Asia and elsewhere. Unlike the other Muslims in the world, all of whom have to observe fasting during the whole month of Ramadan, among the Bani Cham only the clergymen have to practice fasting, and even they themselves have to fast only for the first three days, not for the whole month. After that everybody can eat just like in any other month. This unique feature shows the traces of local culture as it was mixed with the practice of the newer religion of Islam. During the first 15 days of Ramuwan, the clergymen’s families must not slaughter any living thing and must maintain peaceful air in relation to others. Starting from the 16th day their lifestyle can return to normal. During the whole month of Ramuwan, the families in the village take turns offer food and other necessities to the clergy. Muslims come from everywhere to visit one another and make offerings to the mosque and the clergy in the form of betels and areca, rice or money. n
ARCHITECTURE
A ‘Catholic Capital’ in a bog TEXT BY NGUYEN HOA ; PHOTOS BY PHAM THI AI NGHIA
More than 120 years old, Phat Diem Church, a complex of 20 architectural structures, is located in Phat Diem Township, Kim Son District, Ninh Binh Province. Dubbed by many journals and tourists as the ‘Capital of Vietnam Catholicism,’ it was recognized by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism a National Cultural and Historical Heritage Site in 1988.‘The Phat Diem Church complex occupies an area of 20ha, its main structures being six chapels, a bishop edifice, a bell-tower, a theater, a museum of traditions, an artificial mount, two caves and a pond,’ according to the website of the church. APRIL-MAY 2018
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ROCK BUILDINGS ON SOFT MUD ‘In 1865, Father Peter Tran Luc, an extraordinarily erudite scholar who was versed in both Chinese and Latin, was appointed the bishop of Phat Diem. Being called also the ‘Sixth Ender’ for his visionary wisdom, father Tran Luc decided to build the Phat Diem Church complex,’ the website reads. ‘To see the scale of the Sixth Elder’s vision, please be reminded that the area where the Church was built was just a marshland full of reeds at the time,’ Father Paul Bui Chu Tao preached in a Mass. To build a huge complex of massive stone buildings with enormous wood logs on a muddy marshland, father Tran Luc and his parishioners had to spend a decade to prepare the materials. According to the website the up-to-20
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ton stones were taken from quarries 30-60 km away. Wood logs, some up to seven tons in weight, were brought from Nghe An, about 200 km away. The materials ready, the Sixth Elder began calculating and testing the sink ratio of the soil. ‘They dug wide ditches and drove millions of bamboo poles 20m, 30m into the ground, one on top of another, until it could go no deeper. Then they dumped crushed rocks on the ground and rammed them down with human or buffalo labor, layer after layer,’ father Bui Chu Tao described. All the walls of the complex were built with big rocks. As the construction proceeded, the Sixth Elder had slopes built along the walls to transport the rocks up to the height.The walls completed, they proceeded with the most difficult part of the work: the sophisticated and heavy roofs
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which consisted of large and heavy girders, beams and purlins. The hardship of the construction continued for 34 years and only stopped for a while on July 6, 1899 when the Sixth Elder died. The Church was at that time already almost completed. This architectural complex, one of the most grandiose in Vietnam at the time, after being completed was named the Church of Phat Diem – the birth place of beauty. Built in such a robust way, the Church of Phat Diem has survived over a century of brutal weathers and wars, shellings and bombardments, and remains almost intact. CHURCH AND PAGODA IN HARMONY Coming into the church complex, the visitors’ first impression is perhaps about
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the fact that all the buildings look like western church structures, but the roofs are curved upward like those of Vietnamese Pagodas. Between the chapels, Bishop’s edifice, theater and stone caves are walking paths paved with natural stones, a courtyard under age-old trees, and an almost 4 ha lake near the main gates with a little isle that serves as a pedestal on which stands Jesus Christ spreading his arms. To most people, these elements make the church look so much more intimate to the minds that were more accustomed to the air of Vietnamese pagodas. ‘Many say that these structures look similar to the pagodas or temples. Well, that is part of the purpose, because through these buildings, Father Tran Luc wanted to show the harmony of Catholicism in
relation to other religions in Vietnam,’ a priest of Phat Diem said in a press release. All the buildings in the Church complex of Phat Diem, beautifully designed, stand in perfect harmony with their surroundings, being adorned with a lot of ornamental elements. The most admirable among them is perhaps the Big Church. There is a decades-old analogy comparing the Big Church to a Goddess of Beauty surrounded by Her Maidens. It originated from the fact that the majestic, splendid Big Church stands in between four chapels, smaller but no less magnificent. Like many pagodas in Vietnam, the Big Church has double level roofs. There is a row of windows between the upper and the lower levels of roofs to let in air and light. Along the 74m long sides of the Big Church are 28 doors; each thoroughly
processed and meticulously carved. Under three square towers, the facade is 24m wide. There are five entrance paths beneath the towers, all built with stones and look like 9m long tunnels. Each tunnel is decorated with three intricately carved reliefs. The big relief on the wall of the main ‘tunnel’ depicts 17 angels on a bush of Rosarium. According to the website of the Church of Phat Diem, ‘entering the Big Church one feels an air of meditative solemnity typical of Vietnamese pagodas.’ Most remarkable in the Big Church are the 52 pillars supporting the roofs, among which the tallest and biggest are the 16 central ones. According to the website of the church each of these pillars is 2.6m in perimeter, and 11m tall, weighing seven tons. On top of each row of pillars is a large beam strong enough to hold the weight of the tiled roof above it. All the girders, beams and purlins are sophisticatedly carved with folklore themes. The innermost part of the Church is the Sanctuary. In the Sanctuary there are four stone altars adorned with sophisticated carvings. Most notable is the main altar, which is a 3m long, 0.9m wide and 0.2m thick slab supported by bambooshaped carved stone poles. Behind the altar is a red-lacquered and gilded wood and glass wattle, richly decorated with paintings and carvings. This grand composition has many admirable scenes such as: Holy Mother holding Infant Jesus; The Six Martyrs; Holy Mother giving the Rosariums to Saint Dominic, with 12 angels surrounding them. Contemplating this great composition, visitors marvel at the talent and skills of the ancient artisans, and at the durability of the red lacquer and gild that remain bright and intact after more than a century. n
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MUSEUM MUSEUM
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ARCHAEOLOGICAL TREASURES OF V VIIETNAM
fter over a century of the formation and development of its archaeology, Vietnam is currently the only country in Southeast Asia that has conducted numerous excaavvations that have resulted in big collections, relic complexes and heritage sites recognized by UNESCO and that contain valuable items of National Treasure. Following the ground-breaking works of western scholars after 1954, Vietnamese archaeologists continued discovering and studying cultures of different eras in the history of Vietnam, from the prehistoric times to the later dynastic periods. To introduce the valuable finds of Vietnam to an international audience, the National Museum of History in collaboration with other local museums in the country is conducting an exhibition of selected items of Archaeological Treasures of Vietnam in the Federal Republic of Germany. This is the first time a large collection from many Vietnamese museums is to be shown in Europe on a promotion tour of history and
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culture of Vietnam from 2016 to Feb 2018. To keep up the momentum of this tour, about 300 typical archeological artifacts from all historical times and places in the country were selected to present the biggest discoveries of the Viietnamese archeologists, especially those obtained in collaboration with their colleagues from the Federal Republic of Germanyy. Through these showcased items, once again the National Museum of History presents to international audience the historical values of the ancient civilizations and the unique cultural heritage of Vietnam. This exhibition includes artifacts from prehistoric times such as stone and terracotta tools and decorative items found in different excavation sites scattered all over Vietnam. Then comes a part about the metallic era with three big cultural centers that were formed in Vietnam: Dong Son culture in the North, Sa Huynh culture in the Middle and Dong Nai culture in the South. Then, Vietnam of the first 10 centuries AD is presented by artifacts found in brick graves of the 1-3rd centuries and
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huong bird. Terracota. 11th-13th centuries. Opposite: Head of PPhoenix Clockwise from top left: Chau Can ancient grave, about 2300 years ago; Statue depicting the scence Goddess Uma defeating the Mahisa. Stone, terracota, 8th-9th centuries; Vessel patterned ceramics. Tran dynasty. 13th-14th centuries. Collected in Kim Ma, Ha Noi in 1932; Ewer, Lotus flower shaped dish. White Ceramics. Ly dynasty, 11th-13th centuries. Collected in Vinh Phuc, Hanoi and Quang Xuong, Thanh Hoa, 1917.
in the ancient fort of Luy Lau. These are proof of the fact that our ancestors not only fought against the foreign rulers but also protected the traditions of Dong Son culture and f lexibly accepted new elements from other cultures. At the same time, Oc Eo culture was formed on purely local roots and developed until the 7th century AD in the Southern delta, while Champa culture ffllourished in Mid-Vietnam under the infflluence of Hindu culture. The Champa religious temple complex at My Son (Quang Nam), also known as the “My Son Sanctuary,” was recognized by UNESCO as a world cultural heritage site since Dec 1999. To complete the big picture, more artifacts show the development of Vietnam through monarchic dynasties, and the everstronger assertion of national independence in the building of nation’s capitals of Co Loa, Hoa Lu and
Thang Long. The National Museum of History is proud to have been part of the process of planning, excavating, classifying, studying and showcasing relics found in ancient citadels, palaces, temples, shrines, shipwrecks, porcelain kilns and trading ports. Besides the collections of rare and unique artifacts, pictures and footage that show the excavation efforts at the relic sites, the exhibition will guide visitors through the history of nation building and defending of Vietnam. The Archaeological Treasures of Vietnam exhibition will be open on Apr 12, 2018 at the National Museum of History at no.1 Trang Tien Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, till the end of July 2018. APRIL-MAY 2018
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PHOTOGRAPHY
The keeper of the soul BY TRUONG KIM YEN
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he feelings brought by Nguyet Vy’s photographs are so strange. One finds oneself deeply moved by something overwhelmingly familiar, simple and pure. It’s not just the soft female form in the old style long dress and the modest but elegant hairdo, but some internal fire lit by memories and spiritual strength typical to Vietnamese women, which is almost forgotten. On the way looking for her own self, photographer Nguyet Vy found what she thinks is the most durable, most impermanent form of happiness, which is to relive what was the best in each person – the Vietnamese kind of beauty! There was a picture that first appeared at the Vietnamese Embassy in Sweden, one that was selected to be given to a French President and which was copied and displayed by many souvenir shops on Dong Khoi Street as a symbol of Vietnamese beauty. It was the picture of a young girl in green ao dai getting out of a horse cart, a painting that she titled ‘Home Coming’. ‘Home Coming’ was a kind of manifesto. It means rediscovering Vietnamese aesthetic and spiritual values, coming back to something invisible but clearly present in the trees, the grass, on the pond water, in the deep wells and on moss covered roofs, back to the village of kids with crystal-like eyes and
Trở về Home Coming Author: Nguyet Vy
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women with dried breasts that have squeezed out the last drop of milk for their child. ‘Home Coming’ is a journey, a dream, a joy that knows no boundaries ‘Home Coming’ was taken in a late afternoon but has taken such a voyage around the world that even its creator couldn’t imagine. First appearing in Nguyet Vy’s photo exhibition entitled ‘Spring Fragrance’ at Vasa Museum in Stockholm, Sweden on the Vietnamese Culture Day in Sweden in 2000, ‘Home Coming’ has travelled all five continents, leaving prints even in Vietnamese restaurants in America and famous resorts and spas, touching so many hearts. An overseas Vietnamese lady burst into tears at the sight of Nguyet Vy’s ‘Home Coming’ in a resort in Phan Thiet. She said, ‘It reminds me of my maiden time in Saigon and horse carts that transported me in my childhood.’ The photograph brought Nguyet Vy not only fame, but also quite a lot of money, something that rarely happens to photographers. Beside the sweet, nostalgic beauty there is another photo that portrays the brutal heat of mundane life. Wandering one afternoon in the highlands, her lens by chance caught an ethnic minority family returning from a hard day’s work. Four persons, four silhouettes of pain, look like four slashes on blistered sky. Long sugar canes seem to cut the frame into two, multiplying the sufferings of a human life. A foreign photographer, seeing this work of hers, exclaimed with emotions, ‘This is it, the Vietnam of my heart!’ Nguyet Vy especially loves forests and their Peter Pans and Tinkerbells. She has carried this love since her childhood, because in a sense she was born in a forest and always wants it to be her studio. Only there her wild and mythical nature is completely free. She loves Binh Chau primeval forest, with its incredibly rich flora,
with lush green grassy carpets scattered with flowers all year round, with pristine cool creeks hidden under the majestic canopy. So many newlywed couples have made their once-in-alifetime album, romantic and full of love, in this forest. Famous as a nature wedding photographer, she is also notorious as a model ‘torturer’. To take first rays of sunrise, her whole team may have to hit the road at 1 a.m. Everything from clothing to makeup, and lighting . . . has to be prepared, professionally, like in a film crew. It was the film director mindset that helped her get very cinematographic frames. Once, too absorbed with work, she was stung repeatedly on the head by bees. And her crew never forgets, after hours of selfless work, the time she collected succulent fireweed and caught fish in the creek to make them a meal. Their hearts softened seeing her true, real forest fairy nature, serene but no stranger to sly tricks. Running away from the glossy light of new studios that sprung up like mushrooms, she came back to the natural light, to sea breezes, to the unpolished nature. She prefers to find her own light and her own angle from which she can unveil a gem inside a rock, giving birth to a photo. She can’t live without the sun, the breezes, or the forests. She can’t live without her friends, either. For five years, following her husband settling in France, she missed home so much. Nguyet Vy and her husband intend to come back to Vietnam after he retires to enjoy the ‘radiant years of Saigon’ that she loved so much as a maiden. The ‘Home Coming’ photo series also has Old font and Dusting. It’s a complete trilogy about the spiritual perfection she seeks, the primeval beauty that is wild and taming, boiling and calming. APRIL-MAY 2018
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PHOTOGRAPHY Now one of the very few artists who succeeded in expressing the inherent beauty of Vietnamese women, having established her ‘own school’ of photography, can you tell me what brought you to the art of photography? It’s like destiny to me. As a child, I was always mesmerized by the long light cast on the black dress my mother wore to church. The pure light, transparent in the morning and golden in the evening, that transformed my mom’s long black dress into something divine, followed me for years but I never had a chance to express it. In the darkest and most dire hour of my life, fortunately, fate and God’s grace gave me the miracle of photography. I took it humbly, and little by little, learned how to drive the natural light to shine on children’s innocent hearts, on young girls’ prettiness, on women in ancient outfits that I have rediscovered and restored by myself. I respect the pristine beauty of the ao dai and find them alluring, mythical, simple and poetic. Every minute of every day, my obsession gradually became passion, an invisible force that swept me into endless adventures to explore the feminine beauty. To me there is nothing as fulfilling as watching how admiringly people react when seeing the ancient mien of the original Vietnamese soul in the faces of the era of IT big bang that I captured. After so many years, why are you still so passionate about rediscovering the beauty of Vietnamese women in the old ao dai? In fact, the deeper I push myself, the more I discover the primeval beauty of Vietnamese women in their modern appearance. The qualities thought to have been diminished by time are still there, deep down inside. And when the women put on those dresses, those qualities wake up, ooze out and lighten up like artesian water, pure and profound, solemn and proud. Those quadruple flaps, those flossy brassière that are both discreet and seductive, I love these half-hidden
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features so much I can get drunk just thinking about them. I guide my thoughts into each character, in different spaces, under different outfits, to reveal something completely new. Thus my days go by, full of surprises and inspiration. To my utmost pleasure, my models also love the magic. They transfuse their feelings to me. The inspiration, passion, and joy are all mutual and shared. Following your husband to France, having the means to travel the world and being so well received, you found out that more than anybody else, the overseas Vietnamese long for the beauty gone by? I had no idea that the people abroad are so passionate about the traditional dresses. They all want to appear in a photo in a dress of the old times with a hairdo and headwear of the old times. Amazingly, those outfits and hair styles look good everywhere, in any setting. Not only do they fit beside a water well with a coconut shell dipper by a thatch roof house, but also against modern cruise ships such as the ‘Freedom of the Seas’ or the ‘Mariner of the Seas’. I can never forget the image of Ms Minh Tam, Dr Tran Dong A’s wife and other ladies, so classy and elegant in traditional Vietnamese dresses, so surreal on a luxury cruise ship. All others on the ship turned their heads and showed their admiration. And really, was it a contrast or an accord? What could be more traditional than the sky and the sea, and what could be more modern than a beautiful dress? I was so overwhelmingly thrilled to see that not only is the Vietnamese ao dai the queen in a purely Vietnamese setting, but it can also shine and reign in a modern and foreign environment. The Vietnamese ao dai followed me to New York, Hawaii, to conquer the natural settings of America. Vietnamese and Americans alike, everybody showed their adoration for them at first sight. Once while I was working on a set with a friend of mine, an American couple came over and asked me to take a picture of them in Vietnamese dress. I refused, but the next
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day I met them again at Saigon Seafoods Restaurant. They knew I was close with the shop owner and came to ask them to put a word for them. I was moved by their heartiness and agreed. It turned out that Americans do look very good in Vietnamese traditional outfits. You have travelled the world, taken photographs of Queen Silvia of Sweden, and of the stone church, dubbed the ‘swallow’s nest’ of America. Which place has impressed you the deepest? The more I travel, the more strongly I am drawn back to the poor rural sites of our country. After long trips to America, I always feel I have missed so much the eyes of the kids in the highlands. And so, the first thing I do after landing at home is always to leave everything behind and be a ‘lone wanderer’ and roam from Yen Bai, Ha Giang to Sapa with my camera. At night, I sleep in a stilted house with the locals, and at first light, I take my camera and go from village to village. It’s there that I found the human warmth, fresh air and deep meaning of ordinary scenes such as a lush green rice field shining brightly under the sun. I enjoy country food, home-grown vegetables and conversations with village elders by the fire place. It all seems to breathe a new life into me. I feel renewed, rejuvenated, more enthusiastic and more tolerant. Handing new note books to wet-nosed girls, or seeing the sparkling eyes of a little boy receiving a new coat, I realize that the poor and ragged rural countryside is the source of my life and of all of my creations. Each such trip has a reviving effect on me. What do you think is the most precious in Vietnamese woman’s beauty? I just want to say to them that it should be the woman’s soul. Without the Vietnamese character and Vietnamese culture, we lose the inner beauty and the lively spirit granted by heaven and given by our parents. Thank you, and keep on the good work of the ‘keeper of the soul’.
DANANG GOLDEN BAY HOTEL
NOTHING SHORT OF A WORLD’S WONDER
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urrounded by the scenic Han River, East Sea and Son Tra peninsula, Danang Golden Bay is a 5-star hotel that offers high -luxury services. This is also the first hotel in Da Nang with gold-plated rooms and suites that were designed under inspiration invoked by the opulence of gold and the majestic grandeur of Da Nang Bay. Holding many Guinness records such as the world’s tallest and biggest 24K goldplated infinity pool or the single building with the largest number of hotel rooms in Vietnam, Danang Golden Bay Hotel has 29 floors with 1,824 five-star rooms and suites. Guests can also enjoy the spa, take a city tour or have a leisurely walk in our park with 10 miniature wonders of Vietnam and the world such as the Arc de Triomphe, the Lighthouse of Alexandria, the Pyramid of Giza, the Great Wall of China, the Statue of Liberty and the Turtle Shrine, etc. Each one of thes miniatures is intricately replicated to the finest details, and most remarkably, is 24K gold plated by modern technology from Germany. Beside the native features of Vietnam’s best city to live in and the nearby must-see destinations of Hue Citadel and Ancient Town of Hoi An, starting from Apr 27, 2018, guests of Danang Golden Bay Hotel will also have a chance to stray into a Golden Night with a show of typical songs and dances of Mid-Vietnam and a menu of purely Vietnamese delicacies in the luxurious settings of the restaurant Horizon. The Golden Night Show is the only one in Danang that demonstrates fully the purely Vietnamese features of Hue songs, Apsara dances and Ao dai catwalk shows every Friday night. Welcoming the yearly international firework contests, Danang Golden Bay Hotel conducts a series of ‘Beer Pool Parties’ at one of the best spots in Danang to watch the fireworks, promising explosive peaks of fun and youthful energy. This is also the only place in Danang where you can swim and watch the fireworks at the same time. THE GOLDEN NiGHT SHOw at 19:00 – 21:00 every Friday is a show of royal court dances and traditional ao dai catwalk. Ticket price: VND599,000, including welcome cocktail and a set of Vietnamese dishes.
THE BEEr POOL PArTY takes place at 16:00 – 23:00 on 30 April, 26 May, 2 June, 9 June and 30 June. Ticket price: VND299,000, including a beer and fingerfood.
DANANG GOLDEN BAY HOTEL 1 Le Van Duyet St, Son Tra Dist., Danang . Tel: (+84) 236 3 878 999 . Email: info@dananggoldenbay.com www.dananggoldenbay.com
PEOPLE
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PHAM VAN HANG THE EDEN WHERE DREAMS TAKE SHAPE BY HONG THUY TIEN
A portrait of Mr Pham Van Hang. Photo: MPK
n the cold of pre-New Year Da Lat, when things seem to move faster to complete the yearly cycle and enter the joyous period of New Year celebrations, I receive a call from sculptor Pham Van Hang. Having missed the previous appointment to interview him as he rushed to the airport, I feel so thrilled to be given another chance to meet him, a monumental figure in contemporary Vietnamese art, creator of the best-known works of plastic art. ‘You want to have a real piece of writing?’ he asked on the phone. ‘Yes sir.’ ‘Well, come to my place then!’ The silver haired man (he was born in 1942 in Nam O Village, Hoa Vang District of Danang) greeted me with a wide warm smile and a delicious steamy hot cup of coffee. It’s very encouraging to see a man of his age still brimming with energy for his journeys and plans for the future. Does he have a supernatural health or an outside source of energy that never gets exhausted after half a century of being spent so generously? Moreover, I felt quite lucky, because he kindly thought of me just as he has a few rare and precious moments free from his energy-
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absorbent works and projects, to meet and share with me his thoughts and let me contemplate the very works that made up the solid name of Pham Van Hang, one wellknown beyond geographical boundaries, the works that make up a shining career respected and admired by colleagues and the public. He smiled as I mumbled my question and said half jokingly, with a serious look in his eyes, ‘There are so many competitions nowadays. Pham Van Hang won’t perhaps win the talent contests but will dare to take part in that of diligence.’ So true! ‘Diligence’ was his formidable secret weapon, that’s the summary of decades of ceaseless searching and ground breaking in aspects of art. And that diligence, accompanied by his golden hands, creative mind and passionate heart, has resulted in hundreds of famous sculptures, statues, icons and monuments. I am not an art critic or an art theorist or an expert of anything. I am just someone blessed with certain literary capability. And it would not be necessary to analyze again Pham Van Hang’s works of art and discuss about their outstanding or unique features, because scholars and colleagues have already written volumes about him and his
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achievements in domestic and international publications. He wraps up the intrinsic value asserted by each and every piece of his works in muscular words, ‘Artist is a beautiful word people use to call creative souls. I am just a worker performing a physical work. I have no talent, but I am determined. I am a good, skillful worker, and I earn my living.’ And today that diligent worker opened the gates of his Eden, letting me make timid steps inside to contemplate everything with a child’s awe and admiration. Amongst dazzling colors of flowers, above a verdant floor, the seemingly random arrangement of the very much alive sculptures makes it so rewarding to discover the hidden intended order. Besides me, the artist talks passionately about the moments of awakening, and the mystical moments of connection with the subjects of his creation. And the hidden features in the style and character of the artist I am meeting with brought me a successive sequence of surprises. In his artistic endeavors, Pham Van Hang was not limited to the majestic though strenuous form of sculpting. Rather, he absorbed everything from all the art forms he came into contact with,
PEOPLE
A brass poetry book of Mr Pham Van Hang. Photo: MPK
mixed and blended everything to find his own formula. He is an adventurer who had been through several voyages. In extreme realism, he had the ‘Evidence’ about the raging war in 1970 that made everyone shudder. Then he embarked in surrealism with oil on canvas, and then came the period of stylization using blocks and masses with countless numbers of huge statues and monuments. There is a hut inside the Eden of sculptures, whose sole purpose was to house a 220kg brass book of poems titled ‘30 years in lame verses’ that took my breath away. The book contains 29 short poems, each one engraved in relief in four languages: Vietnamese, English, French and Chinese. The Vietnamese originals were authored by the artist himself. This brass poetry book won several Vietnamese Guinness records: the heaviest, the fewest in published quantity, and the only one made on brass. On the opened page I read: ‘Law of the jungle needs no gentlemen Dogmas imprison knowledge Power fears reason’ In his mid-70s, to Pham Van Hang poetry is nothing but the crystallization of wisdom about people and life. His
inexhaustible intuition and energy helped open up new dimensions in his thoughts and new aspects in his artistic creation. But does this silver haired, skinny old artist have anything to regret beneath so thick a layer of fame and praises and applause from the public? He told me what he regrets the most is the loss of freedom. Yes, for an artist, the freedom to blast off to break out beyond the boundaries of morality is a legitimate desire. I feel and share his pain. It’s past mid-noon, and the sculptor has stopped modeling a new sculpture. It’s the newest work of art he is conceiving, a monument for King Quang Trung. I asked him if this is his last? He laughed softly. No, no sight of the last one yet. Then he treated me an outstanding lunch of chicken vermicelli with eggs that he prepared all by himself. This meeting with him in his Eden of dreams was one of the best, most blissful experiences of my life. Pham Van Hang, the sculptor and a sculpture himself, goes on burning his passion to light and shape his artistic dreams. And in his Eden of dreams, the sculptures and visitors keep on forming a world that has no limits in time and space. n APRIL-MAY 2018
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Hue bids farewell to its beloved singer
MUSIC
BY HOA HA
Portrait of the late artist Minh Man. Photo:Nguyen Thuong Hien
Minh Man and Thanh Huong, two veteran singers of ca Hue. Photo: Nguyen Thuong Hien
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inh Man, a live treasure of ca Hue, a type of traditional music that is as significant as ca tru in the north and don ca tai tu in the south, gave her last breath at her home in central Hue City in March, at 93. Man’s passing was a loss to the art form as she was considered by many to be one of the best-ever vocalists of ca Hue singing as well as a prominent educator in the art, thanks to her profound knowledge in the field. She was born Nguyen Thi Man in 1925 in an outlying village near Hue, the former imperial capital city. At 13, Man became a vendor and got chance to sing ca Hue. The singing community discovered her acute sense of rhythm and excellent vocals. At that age, she could sing the toughest rhythms that normally
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required a lot of practice. At that time, singers were looked down upon, due to the reputation of some of them being prostitutes. Man thus had a hard time pursuing her singing passion as she fought to gain trust from her father and reserve time for making a living as a vendor. Fortunately, she rose to fame two years later as one of the best vocalists of the singing style and was selected to perform for the country’s last king, Bao Dai, several times. War and poverty put a hold on the singing form for decades and when it found a path back, the veteran artists, including Man, became significant once again. They not only played the key role in reminding audience of the heyday of ca Hue, but also trained the next generation in the art form.
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Over 70 years, Man collected experience and skills that were second to none. In recent decades, Man continued performing as well as conducting training and acting as a consultant for studies and documentaries on ca Hue. In 2016, she was awarded the title of ‘Outstanding Artist’ by the State President. ‘Man’s passing was a loss to the singing form and we are sorrowful for losing the chance to listen to her voice as well as her wisdom,’ said poet Vo Que, who chairs a club for ca Hue in the city. Que added that many trainees loved working with Man, thanks to her knowledge and devotion. Ca Hue, an archaic form of music, took root in the Central region of Vietnam for about 500 years. It represents
MUSIC Hue in particular and the region in general. Experts place it as high as other Vietnamese traditional music forms like don ca tai tu (Southern folk music) and ca tru (ceremonial singing) found in the northern region. Some said to be a variation of nha nhac (Hue royal court music). This music is typically performed with traditional Vietnamese musical instruments, some of which are used in performances of Hue royal court music, including the dan tranh (16-string zither), dan nhi (twostring fiddle), dan nguyet (moon-shaped lute), and sanh tien (wooden clappers). Originally, ca Hue had a total of 60 basic tunes. It sets to tune some Hue folk songs composed by scholars, mandarins and royal family members. During imperial times, members of the royal family as well as mandarins were looking
for a more common form of the court music and they created a form of regular entertainment by setting stages for performances for this kind of music in their homes as an exquisite hobby. The music gained popularity thanks to the mixing of different classes in an imperial setting, with its lyrics containing Hue folk songs while others were composed by the era’s intellectuals. One interesting feature of the music is it uses both instruments popular in the royal court music but also daily items like teacups. The unique inclusion of teacups in the instrument line-up was a charming addition that delighted many. Performers of ca Hue were always dressed in ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress). The poet Que insisted that visitors to Hue should be entertained with Ca Hue for deeper understanding of the
souls of local people. Experts said that the song lyrics were basically developed on the local dialects, which could be found in daily conversations. Today, the music performances are a part of visits to the former capital city and the performances can be found on home stages and floating boats on the famed Huong (Perfume) River at night. The music was listed as an item of national intangible heritage in 2015 and the musicians and researchers are working on the UNESCO profiling process, seeking a world heritage status for it. There are around 500 licensed performers of the music in the city, many of whom perform nightly. Poet Que and his club offer free show of ca Hue at every Tuesday evening in Hue Museum of Culture in 25 Le Loi Street, Hue.n
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Art show to gain fairness for Hue’s founders
HUE FESTIVAL
TEXT BY HA NGUYEN
‘The Monarchic Saga of Hue’, a unique art performance that depicts the history and achievements of the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945), will be included in the coming biennial event Hue Festival. The programme, which is known as ‘Van hien kinh ky’ in Vietnamese, will be the key show of this year’s event, according to Huynh Tien Dat, Deputy Director of Hue Festival Centre, the event’s organizers. The show takes place in the former Imperial Palace in April 28 and repeats April 30 at the same stage. Hue Monuments Conservation Centre, a local government body managing all relics related to the dynasty in Hue, said the show was built up in the structure of a play. ‘The show tells a historical story of Vietnam in the 19th century through the royal art form as well as other
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traditional genres of Hue,’ said Phan Thanh Hai, the centre’s director. Art performances in the 80-minute show will follow the historical chronology, but with highlights of the dynastic achievements that achieved five UNESCO statuses; the complex of royal monuments, royal court music, wood plates, royal records and royal literature on royal architecture. Audiences of the first chapter will enjoy the scenes a kingdom reunited by the dynasty’s first king as well as efforts to expand the country to the south by royal military force and pioneer citizens. The scenes will also detail the process that the dynasty’s first king Gia Long building up the kingdom in 1802 and naming the country Vietnam. Gia Long also formed and
HUE FESTIVAL
Illustration provided by the Hue Monuments Conservation Centre
appointed marine military troops to investigate and measure the archipelagos of Hoang Sa (Paracels). Royal records related to this have been contributed to sources that prove the sovereignty of Vietnam over the archipelagos. In the second chapter, audiences will continue to be entertained with light, music, and royal dance regarding stories about an era of secure defense, peace and bumper crops. A legend tells when a phoenix appeared on a wutong tree, the society would be ripe in harmony, wealth and peace. Scenes reminding of this legend will be included in this chapter to depict the heyday of the Nguyen Dynasty. The last chapter will go with different themes, which aim to highlight the advanced education, developed art genres and outstanding cultural buildings considered as achievements by the dynasty. This is also to give audiences
backgrounds of the intangible values left by the dynasty in Hue. For almost a century, the Nguyen Dynasty has been blamed for losing the country into French hands, driving Vietnam into colonial period. This led to the overlooking of the dynasty in building up the country sovereignty and territory as well as their achievements. Today historians and researchers have given a fair look at the colonial surge around the world in 19th century and helped the dynasty to regain their reputation. Such art shows like ‘The Monarchic Saga of Hue’ are expected to clear the wrongful blame towards the country’s last monarchy, who played great role in protecting Vietnam sovereignty on sea and the growing of Vietnamese territories to the south. n APRIL-MAY 2018
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HUE OFFERS A BANQUET OF
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tarting later this month, Hue Festival seeks to offer audiences an array of new programmes. From April 28 to May 2, foreigners, Vietnamese residents of localities around the country and locals will enjoy unique performances by Vietnamese and international artists in the ticketed programmes. The former Imperial Palace built by the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945) will serve as the main stage with performances by
KEY PROGRAMMES
art troupes from countries including Russia, Denmark, Morocco, Spain, Japan, and Thailand. The festival will make full use of traditional cultural spaces in the former imperial capital city of Hue. It also combines traditional culture, art and tourism with a community orientation, which will contribute to promoting local socioeconomic development. Audiences thus get chance to partake in the festive atmosphere of folklore games and street and
Festival of chau van singing
Hue City Cultural Centre
All day
April 26-29
Royal banquet
Duyet Thi Duong Theatre
7:30pm
April 27-May 2
Te Giao Rituals
Nam Giao Platform
Opening ceremony
Ngo Mon Square
Trinh Cong Son songs performance
‘The monarchic saga of Hue’ art performance Serendipity of Huong River
‘The monarchic saga of Hue’ art performance Love songs of Hue performance Buddhism art performance Closing ceremony
COMMUNITY EVENTS
Phu Van Lau Pavilion
3:00am
April 27
8:00pm
April 27
7:00pm
Imperial Palace
April 28
7:15pm
Trinh Cong Son Park
April 28
8:00pm
Imperial Palace
April 29
7:15pm
Hue City Cultural Centre
April 30
7:30pm
Da Vien Park
May 1
8:00pm
Ngo Mon Square
May 1
8:00pm
May 2
Gastronomy fair
Thuong Bac Park
All day
April 25-29
Vegetarian food public service
Lieu Quan Buddhist Centre
All day
April 27-May 2
Le-Trinh era antique pottery exhibition Kite flying festival
Public health conference
Rural market festivities
Local beer fest
Ancient village festivities
Hue cuisine conference
Local rock music performance
Hue-Saigon-Hanoi art exhibition
French comic exhibition
Buddhist antiques exhibition
Boat race
Martial human chess
‘The sea’s calling’ festivities
Hue Museum of Antiquities Phu Van Lau Park
Medicine & Pharmacy University
Thanh Toan tile-roofed bridge
3/2 Park
Phuoc Tich Village
Indochine Palace Hotel
Quoc Hoc Square
Hue Museum of Culture
Hue Museum of Culture
Lieu Quan Buddhist Centre
Ly Tu Trong Park
Da Vien Park
Thuan An Beach
9:00am All day All day
All day
All day
All day
7:00am
7:00pm
All day
All day
All day
7:00am
All day
All day
April 25-May 2
April 27-May 2
April 27-29
April 28-May 2
April 28-May 1
April 29-May 1
April 29
April 2
April 25-May 2
April 27-May 27
April 27-May 2
May 2
April 28-29
April 30-May 2
ART, MUSIC, DANCE IN APRIL community activities. Hue Festival is a biennial cultural event that gathers art troupes nationwide as well as from other countries in Hue. This year’s event is the 10th version of the Hue Festival. It is aimed to celebrate 712 years since the founding of Thuan Hoa-Phu Xuan, which is called Hue today. According to Nguyen Dung, head of the organizers, the festival is expected to highlight the province’s cultural heritage.
ART TROUPES’ PERFORMANCES Philippines’s Kaloob
Vietnam’s Bong Sen
The festival thus will be themed ‘Cultural Heritage with Integration and Development: Hue - One Destination, Five World Heritages’. The five heritage statuses were awarded to the Complex of Hue Monuments, Hue royal court music, woodblocks, the imperial archives of the Nguyen Dynasty and royal literature on Hue royal architecture. The event brings together unique arts companies with unique performances from across the world.
Ngo Mon Square
Quoc Hoc Square
Denmark’s Sounds from the Northern Wind An Dinh Palace Sri Lanka’s Ranranga
Thanh Toan Village
Colombia’s Pambil
Medicine &Pharmacy Uni
Mongolia’s national art troupe Morocco’s Majid Bekkas Philippines’s Kaloob Slovakia’s Urpin
Thailand’s Phaka Lumduan Russia’s Sibirskye Uzory
Tu Tuong Park
Imperial Palace
Imperial Palace
Phu Van Lau Park Imperial Palace
Imperial Palace
Denmark’s Sounds from the Northern Wind Imperial Palace Mongolia’s national art troupe
Imperial Palace
Japanese lion dance Yaese
Phu Van Lau Park
Mexico’s Nematalin
Australia’s The Soulful Crew S.Korea’s Yun Myung Hwa
Russia’s Sibirskye Uzory
France’s Lysistrata
Mexico’s Nematalin
Quoc Hoc Square An Dinh Palace
Phu Van Lau Park
Phu Van Lau Park
An Dinh Palace
Quoc Hoc Square
France’s Lysistrata
An Dinh Palace
Australia’s The Soulful Crew
Imperial Palace
Slovakia’s Urpin
S.Korea’s Yun Myung Hwa
Mongolia’s national art troupe
Sri Lanka’s Ranranga
Imperial Palace
Imperial Palace
Tu Tuong Park
Tu Tuong Park
5:30pm
April 28
7:30pm
April 28
7:30pm
April 28
7:30pm
April 28
8:45pm
April 28
6:00pm
April 29
7:30pm
April 29
7:30pm
April 29
7:30pm
April 29
7:30pm
April 29
8:45pm
April 29
8:45pm
April 29
8:45pm
April 29
8:45pm
April 29
7:30pm
April 29
7:30pm
April 30
7:30pm
April 30
8:45pm
April 30
8:45pm
April 30
8:45pm
April 30
7:30pm
May 1
7:30pm
May 1
7:30pm
May 1
7:30pm
May 1
7:30pm
May 1
8:45pm
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CRAFTS
Hanoi
HCM City
Thai Binh
Straw mat trade village is over 500 years old BY LAN ANH
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CRAFTS
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Making straw mats at Hoi Village, Hung Ha Dist., Thai Binh Province, 2008-2013 Photos: Nguyen Duy Dong
an Le Commune, Hung Ha District of Thai Binh Province has been famous for generations for its straw mat trade. Today 80 per cent of its 3,200 households are making straw mats, supplying the market with millions of mats of all sizes, colors and designs every year. Among the 20 odd villages of Tan Le, Hoi is the best known. Hoi deserves the fame because it was the first village to establish the straw mat trade for the whole region. Hoi mats are finical, sophisticated with unique and typical decoration patterns that are known and recognized far and wide. Villagers say they have been trading straw mats for over 500 years already. In 1481, a villager named Pham Don Le topped a national exam, became a mandarin, and was then sent by King Le Thanh Tong to China as an Ambassador. Noticing that Chinese people made straw mats in a different way than that of Hoi villagers, he learned their techniques. Coming back to the home village, he combined the two techniques. Hoi straw mats became stronger and
more even, and therefore sold better. After Mr Le’s death, Hoi villagers divinized him as the ancestor of the trade and built a shrine to worship him. Till this day, the shrine is always blurred in incense smoke. Hoi village has such a deep tradition of making straw mats because it is in the midst of a sea of sedge and jute. The 60s and 70s of the previous century was the golden age of Hoi, as everybody was using straw mats and valued the qualities of Hoi mats. Today, Hoi villagers use machines to make their mats. A worker told me that with manual techniques two people can make only two pairs a day. But using machines, they can make 20 pairs. Higher productivity significantly improves the workers’ income. Hoi mats come in all sizes, colors and designs, up to the requirements of the customers. Hoi mats can be recognized by their rose and lotus patterns, and human portraits. Starting from Thai Binh Cty, just follow small asphalt roads between verdant rice fields, and after 40km you will be in Hoi.n APRIL-MAY 2018
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FOOD
Heart of Glass
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Photo: Lai Dien Dam
TEXT BY KHANH LE
Glass noodles are the beloved tradecraft in ancient northern town ocated about 20 km from the center of Hanoi, Cu Da Village of Thanh Oai District of Hanoi is famous for a well preserved unique cultural space with many ancient houses typical of Viet architecture of the Northern Delta. But Cu Da is also famous for glass noodles made and traded by about 200 of its villagers. The elders of Cu Da say that the trade of canna glass noodles came into practice in the village about seventy years ago. According to the Dept of Economics of Quoc Oai District, on average, every day, Cu Da sells 15 to 18 tons of glass noodles to other provinces and cities. Before New Year’s and during the wedding season, the amount can reach 19-25 tons. During peak seasons, village life becomes hectic because of the increased amount of noodle production and transportation and the increased numbers of traders that come and go. The canna root is crushed and steeped in water to let the starch deposit at the bottom. The starch is then mixed with a certain amount of the same starch, which
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Ha Noi
HCM City
Photo: Phan Lac Dung
Photos: Lai Dien Dam
has already soaked in boiled water, called cooked starch, in 10kg to 1kg proportion, to make a viscid, spreadable mixture. The mixture is then scooped and spread on a piece of cloth stretched over a large pot, 1m in diameter, of boiling water. The heat of the steam quickly cooks the 1mm thick layer of starch, and the sheet is taken away to cool. It is then cut into thin threads and put out to dry under the sun. As all the glass noodles made in Cu Da are dried this way, the courtyards and village roads are colored white or yellowish. Those are the typical colors of Cu Da glass noodles, which possess many other good qualities such as good taste and flavor, smoothness, crispiness, and most importantly, they don’t turn into gruel when overcooked.n
Glass noodles are a main material for many popular dishes in the North of Vietnam. It is usually soaked in boiled water before being used with many kinds of broths and stews cooked with meats and seafood such as chicken, duck, eels, and crabs. The dish would have a double name, which includes glass noodles and the meat or seafood accompanying it. These dishes are always present in New Year’s and national celebrations, weddings and ancestral commemorations.in rural North of Vietnam. Today in many big cities in the South of Vietnam such as Saigon, Danang, Nha Trang and Vung Tau … glass noodles dishes have become quite popular.
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EVENTS HANOI
EXHIBITIONS
The dance of space Till 15 April A photography exhibition by Thomas Dessein, entitled ‘Fall and Release’, will be on till 15 April at Ke Quan, 81 Xuan Dien Dist., Hanoi. Entry is free. ‘Fall and Release’ are the most essential movements for the dancer in dance training. They are also the starting point of the artist’s photographic study on space, movement and the nuance of the fall. For this work, the artist has tried to rediscover, through the figure of the fall, this space in between the causes and consequences of a movement, where space and time is undefined and the body forgets itself to give the viewer the most absurd beauty. Art of the female Till 22 April
A painting exhibition by seven Vietnamese female artists will be on till 22 April at Vicas Art Studio, 32 Hao Nam St, Hanoi. Free entry. The exhibition includes 42 paintings reflecting the aesthetic perception and view of the artists on society and ethics, as well as their thoughts and desire for gender equality. Germany photographers honored Till 22 April
It showcases 35 paintings about women in nature; the oldest was painted in 1977 and the newest in 2017. Most of them have been displayed in exhibitions at numerous museums and art galleries around the world. Glory of globalization Till 10 May
53 works by eight winners in the competition for young photographers in Germany 2017/2018 ‘Gute Aussichten – New German Photography’ is on display till 22 April at the Goethe Institut Hanoi, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Hanoi. Free entry. Mother Nature Till 2 May The exhibition ‘Mother and Nature’ is on till 2 May at the Vietnam Women’s Museum, 36 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi.
MUSIC
The exhibition ‘Midway’ by photographer Duy Phuong is on till 10 May at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Free entry. The exhibition is inspired by globalization, which has changed the rural landscapes and caused individualism to flourish in urban areas in Vietnam.
International concert 27 April ‘Subscription Concert Vol.109’ will be on 27 April, 8 p.m. at Hanoi Opera House. The show features performances by conductor Wong Kah Chun, piano soloist Henri Sigfridsson and the artists from the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra. Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Tickets range from VND200,000. All tickets available at Hanoi Opera House or can book online at www.ticketvn.com.
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EVENTS HO CHI MINH CITY
EXHIBITIONS
The side effects of prosperity Till 9 May
‘In One Breath’s – Nothing Stand Still’ is an exhibition of Hanoi-based artist Tuan Minh at The Factory Contemporary Arts Center till 9 May. The exhibition borrows its inspiration from an ancient Mường epic, from which immerses a belief that there is spirituality in all beings; that the creation of the world is constantly in a state of chaos, where humans struggle to cohabit harmoniously with other creatures, and especially with themselves. Conducted on the basis of the artist’s ongoing fieldwork since 2014 in the stone mining areas of his hometown, Ha Nam, this multimedia body of work investigates and documents the pollution and significant loss of biodiversity caused by overexploitation of natural resources, and its devastating consequences on the structure of culture, and the people inhabiting this land. The Factory Contemporary Arts Center, 15 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien Dist., Ho Chi minh City. Ticket: VND35,000.
8-bit philosophy Till 12 May An exhibition ‘8 ’ by VietnameseFrench artist Truc Anh is on till 12 may at the Galerie Quynh, 118 Nguyen Thu St, Da Kao, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh CIty Truc-Anh tells a complex and nuanced story of transformation and awakening. The artist’s practice has always been defined by his navigation of parallel terrains – the tension between personal histories and age-old wisdoms, between an egocentric need to succeed and the Buddhist philosophy of being selfless. The title of the show exemplifies these dynamics, being a reference to the video games of Truc-Anh’s childhood while also alluding to metaphysical dimensions.
A night concert with Mozart and Tchaikovsky’s concertos, performed by conductor Kim Joon Cha, pianist Cho Eun Young and the artists from Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera, will be on 19 April at 8 p.m. at HCMC Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist.1, HCMC; Tel: (028) 3823-7295. Tickets range from VND80,000 – VND650,000. New world symphony 29 April
MUSIC
A night of classical 19 April
A night concert will be on 29 April at 8 p.m. at HCMC Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist.1, HCMC; Tel: (028) 3823-7295. Tickets range from VND80,000 – VND650,000. The performance, with conductor Tran Nhat Minh and the artists from Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera, feature ‘New World Symphony’ by Antonín Dvořák; aria and musical excerpts by Franz Lehar and Emmerich Kalman.
OTHERS Krossing Over Arts Festival 16 April to 22 April A week-long Krossing Over Arts Festival (KOAF) will be held from 16 April to 22 April in Ho Chi Minh City with including a series of interdisciplinary and collaborative performances along with a plethora of artist talks, dance workshops, and international film screenings. For the schedule please see www.krossingover.com.
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WHAT THE PAPER SAY the city District 8’s Carina Plaza early Friday morning, killing 13 and injuring 48, and leaving others trapped inside. A motorbike in the basement suddenly burst into flames and the fire spread out, trapping hundreds of people inside. The residents had to flee to the higher floors. Some even tried to escape by jumping. Firemen were sent to the location immediately, putting out the fire at around 4:00am. Many survivors said that the fire alarm system did not work when the fire broke out.
Hanoi tackles waste Vietnam News, 24 March
Hanoi has paid more attention to collecting and treating packaging of plant protection products and veterinary medicines after use. The move aims to reduce risks of pollution for water resources and soil and drive green, clean and sustainable agriculture. The city uses about 400 tonnes of plant protection products in agricultural production yearly. If the empty packages are dumped, they cause environmental pollution. Burning the packaging emits dioxin. Collecting thus is the most effective solution.
Harsher punishment for wildlife trafficking leader demanded Vietnam News, 23 March
Education for Nature Vietnam (ENV), a non-governmental organisation working on wildlife conversation in the country, on Thursday, submitted an appeal to the Hanoi People’s Court. The appeal was against the first instance verdict for Nguyen Mau Chien, an alleged kingpin of a transnational network, involved in trafficking rhino horns and ivory from Africa to Vietnam. ENV said the punishment of Chien does not reflect the seriousness of his crime. The organisation proposed to appeal the first instance verdict by increasing the penalties for Chien, with two crimes, of as trafficking prohibited goods and storing prohibited goods.
HCMC fire kills 13, injures 48; trapped many others Vietnam News, 23 March
A fire broke out at an apartment block in
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Gac Ma naval martyrs commemorated Vietnam News, 15 March
Authorities of the central coastal province of Khanh Hoa and local armed forces gathered on Wednesday to pay tribute to 64 naval officers and soldiers who lost their lives in a battle to protect the Gac Ma (Johnson South) Reef in Vietnam’s Truong Sa (Spratly) archipelago three decades ago. They offered flowers and incense at the monument dedicated to Gac Ma soldiers built in Cam Lam District, showing their gratitude to the heroes who bravely defended Vietnam’s sacred sea and island sovereignty and died with honour on March 14, 1988. The monument lies at the centre of the 2.5-hectare memorial complex, inaugurated in 2017. It features the naval soldiers standing holding hands in an ‘immortal circle’ around the fatherland’s flag to protect it and to affirm Vietnam’s sovereignty over the archipelago.
VN struggling to protect water resources Vietnam News, 17 March
Vietnam is struggling to find solutions, especially ‘green’ solutions to address challenges in water resources management with environmental damage, climate change and unsustainable water exploitation driving the water-related crisis. The direct cause of these problems was initially determined to be the unsustainable exploitation and use of water resources. Water resource exploitation has exceeded safe levels, with Vietnam’s wastewater treatment the lowest compared with neighbouring countries. Vietnam was also affected by climate change which impacts rice production and
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economic development. Aggregate impact could be more than five per cent of Vietnam’s GDP by 2035, a substantial loss to the country’s economy.
Sea water turns black in Danang Tuoi Tre News, 26 March
Blackish water has appeared over the past few days on a five-kilometer stretch of a beach in Danang, raising pollution concerns. Thick yellow foam and a foul smell were also reported by locals, who have been afraid to go into the water for fear of catching diseases. The affected body of water is located along Nguyen Tat Thanh Street, spanning Da Nang’s Thanh Khe and Lien Chieu districts. There are 28 sewer openings located along this stretch of beach, which receives the largest daily volume of treated wastewater in the city.
Dogs save many in HCMC fire Tuoi Tre News, 24 March
Survivors of a deadly fire at an apartment building in HCMC that claimed 13 lives and injured nearly 100 others on Friday have recalled being miraculously saved by their pets. Danny Nguyen, 29, and his wife, her fifth month of pregnancy, were woken up by their pets, a Husky and an Alaskan dog at around 2:00 am, after the fire had burned for about 30 minutes. The hounds barked vigorously and continuously scratched the door of their apartment on the building’s first floor. The man was later rushed to the hospital. He and his wife only suffered minor injuries and slight burns.
Gold mine leaks toxic waste into central river English VNExpress March 25
A tailings pond at a gold mine in central Vietnam breached its banks last Friday, releasing pollutants into a nearby river that contaminated the water and killed dozens of fish. The Bong Mieu gold mine in Quang Nam Province, spans thousands of square meters, and lies next to the Que Phuong River. The spill has prompted protests from local people. The level of pollution is so severe that residents won't even let their cattle drink from the river.
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4:3 MA MAY AY 2013 2
CULTURAL CUL LTTURAL HERITAGE HERITTA AGE ASSOCIATION ASSOCIATION OF VIETNAM
ISSN 1859-4123
ISSN 1859-4123
CULTURAL CUL LTTURAL HERITAGE HERITTA AGE ASSOCIA ASSOCIATION TION OF VIETNAM
When making love love w was as exalted exalted p.8
Muddy tradition
wrestles its way back to Van Village
VIETNAM HERITAGE MAGAZINE 4th Floor, 1/1 Hoang Viet Street, Ward 4, Tan Binh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Viet Nam Tel: (84-28) 38118846 ; Fax: (84-28) 38118775 Email: vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com www.vietnamheritage.com.vn Vietnam Heritage
Vietnam Heritage
DIRECTIONS
HALONG
(TELEPHONE CODE: 033)
Chi Minh declared Vietnam’s independence in September 1945, is a complex of historic sites.
Syrena Cruises
Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong. Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com
Lapaz Hotel & Resort
Tuan Chau Island, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-999 www.holidayvillahalongbay.com
Vinpearl Halong
Cot Co Tower
28 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Cot Co Tower, the so-called Flag Tower, is now part of the Vietnam Military History Museum complex. The Tower was built in 1950, under the Nguyen Dynasty, with the help of French engineers. The tower has 36 flower-shaped windows. At the top of the tower flies the flag of Vietnam.
66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95)
Hanoi Opera House
Vietnam Military History
1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Designed by a French architect along the lines of the Paris Opera House, it is embellished with wonderful Gothic statuary. For many decades, Hanoi Opera House has been a centre for theatre, traditional music and dance, symphonies, traditional and classical music. This, the largest theatre in Vietnam, was completed in 1911.
Hoa Lo Prison
‘La Maison Centrale’, the prison on Hoa Lo Street in Hanoi, was built by the French in 1896 and became the place where generations of Vietnamese freedom fighters were held.
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St Joseph’s Cathedral
Reu Island, Bai Chay, Ha Long, Viet Nam. Tel: (033) 3556-868 www.vinpearl.com
HAI PHONG CITY Avani Hai Phong Harbour View 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong. Tel: (031) 3827-827 www.avanihotels.com
Hanoi Museum
2 Pham Hung (next to Vietnam National Convention Centre), Me Tri Commune, Tu Liem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 6287-06 04 Opening hour: 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Free entrance
TRAVEL
Emeraude Classic Cruises
46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com
19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000
3rd Floor, 66A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com
Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
Topas Travel
12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 37345427 www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000
52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3715-1005 www.topastravel.vn SIGHTSEEINGS
Ba Dinh Square
36A Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi. Ba Dinh Square, where President Ho HERITAGE
Vietnam Fine Arts Museum
Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (024) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND40,000 ($2)
Women’s Museum
36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (024) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) TRAVEL
Vietnam National Museum
of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. 25 Tong Dan St, Hanoi.
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Hue Riverside Boutique
Resort & Spa 588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue. Tel: (0234) 3978-484 www.hueriversideresort.com
Imperial Hotel
8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3882-222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn
Indochine Palace Hotel
105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue.
La Residence Hotel & Spa
5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com Step back in time to Art Deco's golden age with a stay at La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa, MGallery by Sofitel. Nestled along the fabled Perfume River overlooking the former Imperial Citadel, La Residence is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece with luxurious cultural and culinary experiences. This former governor's residence with 122 guestrooms and suites offers visitors a warm hospitality and a chance to relive the pleasures of a bygone era.
Lang Co Beach Resort
Oxalis Adventure Tours
Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province. Tel: (0232)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn
HUE
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0234) HOTELS, RESORTS
Century Riverside Hotel Hue
Ho Chi Minh Museum
Exotissmo
40 • V I E T N A M
40 Nha Chung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Fresh missionaries built this cathedral in the late 19th century. The small but beautiful panes of stained glass were created in Paris in 1906. Also of note is the ornate altar, with its high gilded sidewalls. MUSEUMS
HANOI
Tel: (024) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed every first Monday of months. Entry fee VND40,000 ($1.82) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children
463 Lac Long Quan St., Lang Co Town, Phu Loc Dist, Thua Thien Hue Province Tel: (0234) 3873-555 www.langcobeachresort.com.vn
Hotel Saigon Morin
30 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234)3823-526 www.morinhotel.com.vn
DANANG
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0236) 49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3823-390 Email: res@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com Century Riverside Hotel Hue, with its 135 rooms, is located in a vast area of 20,000 square meters. It is surrounded by a garden full of fruit trees, various kinds of flowers and a green pasture. Hue Century Riverside Hotel lies by the side of Truong Tien Bridge and the bank of the romantic Huong River.
Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang. Tel: (0236) 3968-888 www.vinpearl.com
Danang Museum of Cham
Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)
HOI AN
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0235) HOTELS, RESORTS
Anantara Hoi An Resort
1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3914-555 www.hoi-an.anantara.com
Aurora Riverside Hotel & Villas
NHA TRANG
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0258) HOTELS, RESORTS
Champa Island Nha Trang
Resort & Spa 304, 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Tel: (0258) 3568-888 Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang
Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa 242 Cua Dai St, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3924-111 www.aurorahoian.com
Hotel Royal Hoi An, Mgallery Collection 39 Dao Duy Tu St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3950-777 www.mgallery.com Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa
Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation 10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0235) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
QUY NHON
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0256) AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (0256) 3840-132 www.avanihotels.com/quynhon MUSEUM
Quang Trung Museum
Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province. Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50). Free for children under six
Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa
Seahorse Resort & Spa
Km 11 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3847-507 reservation@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com
Sea Links City Resort & Golf
38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3847-007 www.bamboovillageresortvn.com
Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 2220-088 www.sealinksbeachhotel.com MUSEUM
Cham Culture Exhibition Centre
Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (0252) 3641-456. Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday. Free entrance
Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3989-898 Email: info@rivieraresortspa.com www.rivieraresortspa.com 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (0258) 3887-777 www.intercontinental.com
MUSEUM
Quater 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 3828-288 www.aromabeachresort.com With 52 authentic Vietnamese rooms and bungalows, the hotel offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the blue sea
Blue Bay Muine Resort & Spa
InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel
Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn
DIRECTIONS
Mường Thanh Grand Nha Trang Hotel
6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3552-468 www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn
DALAT
Suoi Nuoc, Muine, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 3836-888 Email: info@bluebaymuineresort.com www.bluebaymuineresort.com
Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0263) HOTELS
Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa
Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang
Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com MUSEUM
Alexandre Yersin Museum
Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (0258) 3822-406
PHAN THIET
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0252) HOTELS, RESORTS
Aroma Beach Resort & Spa
152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com
Muine Mud Bath & Spa
133A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (0252) 3743-481 Email: sales1@bunkhoangmuine.com www.bunkhoangmuine.com
Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (0263) 3555-888 reservation-dalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND3,150,000 ($150)
Monet Garden Villa
Caty Resort
6 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 2481-888 www.catymuineresort.com info@catymuineresort.com
Muine Bay Resort
Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (0252) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com
3 Nguyen Du St., Dalat City, Lam Dong Province Tel: (0263) 3810-826 www.monetgarden.com.vn
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DIRECTIONS
HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 028)
SAIGON PRINCE HOTEL
TRAVEL
Fine Arts Museum of
Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays
Asiana Travel Mate
113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3838-6678 www.atravelmate.com
Buffalo Tours
81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn
Exotissimo
261/26 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3995-9898 www.exotravel.com
63 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (84) 28 3822 2999 www.saigonprincehotel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel
18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3833-6688 www.windsorplazahotel.com GALLERIES
Saigon Tourist
45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.net
Trails of Indochina
10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (028) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com HOTELS
Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon
Apricot Gallery
50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3822-7962
Craig Thomas Gallery
27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sundays
Galerie Quynh
Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3824-8284 www.galeriequynh.com Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Sàn Art
253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3844-9222 Email: Info@eastingrandSaigon.com www.eastingrandsaigon.com
Park Hyatt Saigon
48/7 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 6294-7059 www.san-art.org SIGHTSEEINGS
Notre Dame Cathedral
2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3824-1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
Rex Hotel
141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-2185 www.rexhotelvietnm.com
Sofitel Saigon Plaza
Cong Xa Paris Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Built in 1877, and the Cathedral opened to the public in 1880. The bricks used to build this marvellous structure were shipped from Marseilles.
17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3824-1555 Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com HERITAGE
Fito Museum
41 Hoang Du Khuong S, Ward 12, Dist. 10, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3864-2430 www.fitomuseum.com.vn Open daily from 8.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m. Ticket: VND50,000 The first museum of traditional Vietnamese medicine
I APRIL-MAY 2018
HOTELS, RESORTS
Petrosetco Hotel
12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau. Tel: (0254) 3624-748 www.petrosetcohotel.vn
Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel : (0254) 3852-014 Hotline: 0961.085.869 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn
The Coast Hotel
65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Independence Palace
135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.
Southern Women Museum
202 Vo Thi Sau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3932-7130
The History Museum
2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (028) 3829-8146 www.baotanglichsuvn.com 8 a.m. - 11.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m. - 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Monday
War Remnants Museum
28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (028) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.
Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Ben Thanh market is a trade centre and a favourite tourist destination, offering a wide range of Vietnamese handicraft, fresh fruits and local specialities. It was set up at the end of the 18th century when the Minh Dynasty in China was overthrown. Chinatown has many shops and private workshops. The most interesting places are Binh Tay market, Soai Kinh Lam fabric whole-sales market, the street of herbal medicine located on Hai Thuong Lan Ong and Thien Hau Temple on Nguyen Trai Street.
VUNG TAU
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0254)
Ho Chi Minh City Museum
Ben Thanh Market
Chinatown – Cho Lon
42 • V I E T N A M
MUSEUMS
300A Phan Chu Trinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau City Tel: (0254) 3627-777 Email: info@thecoasthotelvungtau.com www.thecoasthotelvungtau.com MUSEUM
White Palace
6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau City Tel: (0254) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
PHU QUOC
(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Eden Resort Phu Quoc Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 www.edenresort.com.vn MUSEUMS Coi Nguon Museum 149 Tran Hung Dao St, Duong dong Town, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3980-206 www.coinguonphuquoc.com
For Subscription
please call Phuong: 0969473579 or email: subs.vietnamheritage@gmail.com www.vietnamheritage.com.vn Six issues Vietnam: VND294,000. Asia & Europe: $42. America & Africa: $48 .