Vietnam Heritage Feb-Mar 2017

1:7 FEB-MAR 2017

Harboring good sentiments

CONTENT No 1, VOL.7, FEBRUARY - MARCH 2017

HISTORY

8 Harbouring good sentiments DANCE

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12 An ancient seductive dance in the deep woods RITUAL

14 The maturity ritual of the Red Dao people SPORTS

16 Wrestling with tradition ARCHITECTURE

20 Gates of strength TRADITION

22 Hallowed horse, sacred shrine CRAFTS

24 Forgotten dishes FOOD

26 Everything you want at Auntie Mai's Restaurant FOLK MEDICINE

28 Vietnam's supernatural mushroom Linh Chi FOLKLORE

29 A tale of two spirits 30 32 34 36 39 50

TRAVEL

Sacred Mother River of the Quang Nam people

Exploring Nam Du Islands VALUE FOR MONEY EVENTS

DIRECTIONS

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY

Cover photograph: Along Lach Tray River, Hai Phong City

Photo: Vu Dung

Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang Managing Editor: Kha Tu Anh; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson; Assistant: Van Thanh Nga, Nguyen Dang Khoa; Designer: Thanh Mai; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Ngo Nguyen Huynh Trung Tin; Nguyen Ba Ngoc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Email: tapchidisanvietnam@gmail.com & vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com; Thuy Phuong 0969 47 3579 Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999 Nha Trang Advertising and Subscription: Bach Cat Co. Ltd,; 22/6A Bach Dang Str. Nha Trang City Tel: (58) 360 7070 Fax (58) 387 0099, Email: bachcatprco.ltd@gmail.com Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148

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Vietnam Heritage is published monthly, produced in Vietnam and printed at Army Printing House No 2. © All rights reserved.

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In Central Highlands, cattle are taken to graze, Lak District, Dak Lak Province, August, 2015.

Photo: Ton That Tuan Ninh

HISTORY

HARBORING GOOD SENTIMENTS

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TEXT BY BAO NAM; PHOTOS BY VU DUNG

Along Lach Tray River

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Vietnam National Bank on Nguyen Tri Phuong Street VIETNAM HERITAGE

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ai Phong is known not only for its famous tourist destinations such as Do Son and Cat Ba, but also as one of the first developed sea ports of the country.

Traces of that development can still be found in the unique old quarters in the downtown.

The journey to rediscover the old streets in the center of the port city begins from a century-old house at the piers of Lac Long Bridge. It was built by the French in 1885 where Nguyen Tri Phuong Street begins. Today, it is the office of the Hai Phong branch of Vietnam National Bank. All the base and fender walls are built from tens of thousands of neatly cut 0.4-0.45m thick blue limestone bricks, giving the house a distinctive look.

Opposite the house are two old streets closely associated with the formation and development of the harbor city. Winding along

The streets and rivers of Hai Phong are rich with nostalgia

dreamy Tam Bac River, Tam Bac Street used to be booming with busy docks and hectic river traffic. There was rarely such a street so favored by the artists and so present in their creations. Oil paintings and verses eternalized life on this age-old street during that remarkable period. Hai Phong used to have many streets such as Quang Trung and Nguyen Duc Canh Streets along Lap River, and Lach Tray Street along Lach Tray River providing easy access to docks and being convenient for trades. But today, due to urbanization, only Tam Bac Street somehow has managed to preserve the old look, reminding us of the times of hectic docking and loading.

Running in parallel with Tam Bac, Ly Thuong Kiet Street has also preserved many features of the old architecture. Houses here open to both of these streets. Walls yellowed by time, high and narrow wooden doors of long and narrow houses with double tiles

Hai Phong Opera House opened in 1912 on Hoang Van Thu Street FEBRUARY - MARCH 2017

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HISTORY reveal their Chinese origins. This street used to be called ‘Guest Street’, because the Chinese made up the major part of its inhabitants. Here and there, French villas built in the early 20th century in the Gothic style with small windows opening high up under curved domes, making the street a melting pot of Oriental and Occidental cultures. House no. 14 of Rice Alley (today’s 61 Alley) used to be an important liaison post of the Vietnam Communist Party before the August Revolution.

The area between the end of Ly Thuong Kiet and Tam Bac Streets is criss-crossed by many small alleys. All of them have names, but even the Hai Phong people rarely remember all of them. Among these are Trang Trinh, Ky Con and Hoang Ngan.

Folks simply call the whole area the Ruined Bazaar or Tam Bac Bazaar. This is one of the very first and busiest bazaars of the city. Here, wholesalers hawk all sorts of goods. Shops and kiosks are arranged in a chessboard-like manner with crossing paths separating them. In the middle, there is a stele telling the story of an atrocity by the Americans in 1972 when they bombed and destroyed the entire marketplace. Since then, people have called it the Ruined Bazaar.

Cau Dat is another old street that almost all of Hai Phong’s guests have visited. During the French rule, it was called the ‘wealth funnel.’ In those days, Cau Dat used to be considered Hai Phong’s richest street, with many famous handicraft trades such as shoemaking, quilt making, sweets and food, grocery, photo and jewelry shops. Today, Cau Dat is not only a bustling business area, but it has also managed to preserve the old fame as the traditional sweet trade center of Hai Phong, similar to the Hang Duong Street of Hanoi. Each shop, such as Dong Phuong, Thanh Lich, Nhu Y and Song Kim, is a family business with secret recipes and formulas for the distinctive flavors of their products that draw multitudes of buyers and make the trade so blissful, especially during the MidAutumn and New-Year holidays. Even the simple fried rice donuts with paper-thin, crispy skin and silky stuffing are also a delight of passersby.

Hai Phong has not only busy streets where any hour is a rush, but also tender, nostalgic corners of Hoang Van Thu, Dinh Tien Hoang, and Ho Xuan Huong Streets. Mythically hidden amidst the hectic downtown, life suddenly seems quiet; a world away with century-old villas covered in moss and weathered by time. Passing under the canopy of big, old, year-round green trees of these dormant streets, people seem to slow down to enjoy a peaceful moment amongst the whirlpool of modern life.

Strolling on crowded commercial streets, sipping hot coffee in a sidewalk coffee shop, or nibbling some simple nosh with a cup of thick tea while everything around is blurred in the spiraling aromatic tea vapor on a cold winter day is an experience of the harbor city that no one will ever forget.n Hai Phong

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Dinh Tien Hoang Street on Lunar New Year

A corner of the ancient Ruined Market on Ha Ly Street

Ly Thuong Kiet Street

DANCE

Xòe dance performed in Lac Village, Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh Province, 2015.

Photo: Nguyen Ngoc Thai

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An ancient seductive dance in the deep woods

BY HOA KHANH

The sensual rhythms of Thai xòe dancing perform a multitude of functions.

ithout xòe there is no fun, rice yields no crop, maize shoots, no corn, girls and boys don’t make couples.’

Those are the words of an ancient song that Thai people sing to eulogize their xòe dance. Xòe is the Thai symbolic expression of love; love between a man and a woman, love of nature, love of native land, and love of hard work.

Thai people are an ethnic minority in Vietnam. Currently, there are 1,300,000 of them, living mostly in the northwest highlands. Thai culture is one of the most ancient and vibrant among about 20 ethnic groups that share the northwest mountains and forests.

The Northwest is a 5,500 ha highland region which includes 6 provinces and borders Laos and China. The terrain is rugged with high mountain ranges, most notably the 180km long and 30km wide Hoang Lien Son range, which has some over 3,000m high peaks.

Xòe is a folk dance, a priceless heritage of the Thai people that has a strong influence on other neighboring ethnic minorities.

Xòe has always been indispensable in Thai spiritual life. Every

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Thai person knows and loves the art of this dance. Xòe is performed every time Thai people celebrate something happy such as New Year’s, good harvest, festivals and wedding, and in rituals of faith.

Generations of Thai have passed down xòe from the 10th century by a tribal chief named Lac Truong. The 6 ancient forms of xòe, accompanied by the gourd instrument, two-string violin, drums, gongs and cymbals are the cream of the crop of Thai folk dances.

These 6 forms of xòe express different emotional tunes and tones. The ‘wine serving’ form shows refined hospitality and civility.

The ‘pha xi’ form strengthens the unity of village communities. The boisterous ‘shawl throwing’ form expresses the infinite joy of a wedding, a new home built, or a good crop. The ‘don hon’ is a vow of unshakable love in spite of changes of heaven and earth and the hardships of life. ‘Kham khen’ form is the most fundamental of all Thai dances, inspired by the shared joys and hardships through the ups and downs of life. Finally, the ‘Om lom top mu’ finishes parties by expressing the happiness of gathering and sadness of parting.

Xòe dance performed during the ‘Muong Lo Cultural and Tourism Week’ in Nghia Lo Town, Yen Bai Province, 2016 Photo: Vu Dung

Upcoming events in which Thai people perform their xòe dance include the ‘Praying for Rain Festival’ on 11 March, 2017 at Moc Chau Dist, Son La Province, the ‘Mountain Ebony Festival’ from the 11 to 14 of March, 2017 at Dien Bien City, Dien Bien Province, and the ‘Devotion to Muong Festival’ on 2 March, 2017 at Moc Chau Dist, Son La Province.

Son La

Today, xòe has developed to include 36 forms to not only serve the Thai community and spiritual activities but also to perform on domestic and foreign stages. Xòe performers usually wear Thai traditional dress, very garish and unmistakable. The audience may include ritual attendees, festival or party goers, and the stage also changes accordingly. Thai people believe that xòe should bring a happy mood, and the more people that take part in a dance, the happier it becomes, the more the plants blossom, and the better the crop. So they often invite and draw tourists and party goers to dance together with them wherever they perform.

Thai xòe dance is said to be the thread of love that ties the northwestern highland minorities together.

If a ceremony takes place in an evening, xòe dances can continue until very late. The deeper the night, the livelier and the more vibrant xòe dances get. Sometimes boys and girls, hand in hand, smiles on their lips, eyes sinking into each other’s eyes, shake in the dance until the next morning. n

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THE MATURITY RITUAL

OF THE RED DAO PEOPLE

BY DUC CHANH

he maturity ritual is one of the oldest and most unique customs of the Red Dao minority living in the mountains of North Vietnam, and is recognized by the government as a national intangible heritage. It has no fixed date, but is usually conducted between the 11th lunar month and the 1st month of the next lunar year, when farm work is least intensive.

The King of Heaven confers the power to fight evil spirits

In the deep past, from time to time, evil spirits came to harm people, cattle and crops, disturbing the peaceful life of the Red Dao. So, the King of Heaven conferred special powers and titles on Red Dao men who would fight them alongside troops sent from heaven. Since then, every year, the King of Heaven does it again for men who want to help their people. That’s how the thousand-year-old legends go.

The maturity ritual is a must in the lives of Red Dao men when they reach the age of 13. Any man, who has not had passed this is considered immature. Nowadays, because it is too costly compared to average income, each ritual is organized for 30 – 40 men.

To prepare for maturity, a man must go through a rigorous self-improvement process, learn procedural aspects of rituals and know by heart prayers and magic words written in ancient sacred books of the Red Dao people. The date of the ritual is carefully selected by a shaman. For many days before that, both the shaman

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and the maturity candidates must keep themselves pure by observing strict abstinence from sex, from urinating and defecating toward where the sun rises and other strict practices.

The maturity ritual is also called ‘lighting’, or ‘the enlightenment ritual’. A man recognized by the community as mature must have passed the lighting ritual, or be enlightened.

There are 4 levels of lighting; with 3, 7, 9 or 12 candles.

A 12-candle enlightenment ritual

‘It takes a lot of work to prepare a 12-candle maturity ritual. About 4 years before the ritual, dozens of parents of candidates chose a wide clearing to plant many fruit trees. A year before the great event, they begin raising a batch of pigs, chickens and vegetables specially to feed the villagers and guests. Near the date, they set up a large tent capable of hosting over 300 people. They decorate the tent with colorful bands and pictures of deities and arrange many altars in the tent and outside,’ according to Mr. Trung Hau from Pin Nga Commune, Bat Xat District, Lao Cai Province, where people conduct many maturity rituals which have drawn a lot of attention from the press.

On the date of enlightenment set by the most respected lead shaman, a dozen shamans together with the families of the maturity candidates and villagers gather to prepare all sorts of food offerings such as steamed sticky rice, puddings, cakes etc. As vegetarian food is arranged on the altars inside the tent and the biggest stage outside, the shamans change to their traditional ceremonial outfit.

At the set time, the lead shaman in dragon-and-pattern-

Photo: Hoang Do

RITUAL

Opposite: A ritual for asking the gods’ and ancestors’ permission to begin the maturity ceremony. Photo: Ngoc Bang Clockwise from top, left: A Red Dao couple in a maturity ritual; A shaman reading prayers; Blowing on horns and blowing water, one of the rituals in the maturity ceremony. Photos: Ngoc Bang

embroidered dress ascends to the stage outside. He burns incense, reads prayers and makes respectful movements to ask the gods’ and ancestors’ permission to begin the maturity ceremony. Over 40 men about to become mature and hundreds of villagers stand around solemnly. The opening ceremony lasts for about an hour.

‘After the opening, the shamans take an hour rest, and then move inside the big tent to continue prayers and consecration. The process repeats over and over, day and night, and finishes only after 10 days of continuous rituals. Nobody knows how many times they repeat this process. I have attended these rituals since my childhood but could never count how many times they repeat it in each such ceremony. All I know is that each repetition has a different meaning and purpose,’ Mr. Hau recounted.

Among the many prayers and consecrations, the conferment is the HA GIANG most important. The shamans light the LAO CAI BAC CAN TUYEN candles to enlighten QUANG

HA NOI

and cleanse the candidates. Then they beat drums and gongs, walk 9-11 rounds circling each candidate while reading magic words from the ancient Red Dao sacred books and using sticks, seals, dice, rice bundles and candles to transfer power to them together with 180 soldiers from the underworld. At the end of the process, the shamans thank the gods and ancestors.

The Red Dao believe that a man upon whom the 12-candle enlightenment has been conferred has the right to go to heaven and the underworld at any time, to mobilize his 180 soldiers from the underworld, and to attend and help shamans in different rituals.

After death, they can rejoin the ancestors. In the village’s daily life the men who have passed the enlightenment rituals are considered mature, both mentally and physically. They know right from wrong, and can take part in all the major matters of the community.

The ceremony ends with a big feast and a lot of fun. The candidates’ families butcher pigs and chickens. Crowds of guests gather to share their happiness. Hosts and guests eat, play drums, gongs, cymbals and sing together. The more elated ones dance, stylizing the movements of daily activities of working the fields, sowing crops, and building a house. n

Some of the most famous forms of maturity rituals are conducted at: Sa Pa Township of Lao Cai Province; Thai Hoa Commune, Ham Yen District of Tuyen Quang Province; Nong Thinh Commune, Cho Moi District of Bac Kan Province; Nam Dam Village, Quan Ba District of Ha Giang Province.

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SPORTS

WRESTLING

WITH TRADITION

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BY HA NGUYEN

Creativity, not trickery, is the key to winning at this sport

he sixth day of a new lunar new year might be the only day that all villagers of Thu Le in Thua Thien Hue Province wake up early all at the same time in a year. As the sound of drum beats and the smell of incense fills the village’s communal house for the traditional wrestling competition, the villagers gather.

In the middle of the communal house’s yard, a sandy bout is set in a round shape, ready for the wrestlers, who come from villages in the province’s Quang Dien District, Hue, to start their competition.

Throughout history, the first month in the lunar calendar was the time for recreation, as farmers were finally free from their farming work; the wrestling bout offered the villagers a great chance for entertainment.

An elderly man, Ngo Tuan, said that today the bout is held every year to maintain the village traditions and offers a sport to residents of villages around the district, which includes Thu Le Village. ‘The bout is to encourage young men in the district regular training for good health and teach them about playing fair,’ he said.

Rules of this traditional game require a competitor not to kick, punch or choke his rival during a fight. A referee will watch closely to stop harmful attacks and the rule violators will be sent away.

The wrestlers are allowed to use their hands to produce gestures that could fell their rivals. A winner of a session is determined when he makes his rival ‘dirty back and white belly’ (or lấm lưng, trắng bụng in Vietnamese), which means when he makes the rival fall on his back.

The game is very exciting and much applause will be produced for those wrestlers who use showy gestures to beat their rivals. A muscular or heavy man will not necessarily have the advantage in the game, as winners are usually a man with clever attacks, the

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SPORTS knowledge of which are said to be transferred in families from generation to generation.

Hue Certainly, competitors playing the game in tricky manner will receive boos from audiences. During a fight, an elderly man will beat a drum to inspire the wrestlers.

In Thu Le Village, the game starts first with performances among elderly men, then female wrestlers, and later, male competitors. A list of male villagers is made for the main game, which allows competition for teenagers and adults. Only residents of villages in Quang Dien District are allowed to play the game. Each competitor has to beat two rivals to enter the semi-final round, where he must defeat another for the final game. During the time competing tables for semi-final rounds are made, free players among audiences are welcome to enter a fight.

Four days later in Sinh Village in Phu Vang District, another wresting bout is held. Experts explained that there was more than one village in Thua Thien Hue that embraced the tradition, as some 200 years ago, wresting bouts were held to select healthy men as soldiers for the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945) in Hue. Unlike in Thu Le, where the game is held similar to the traditional format, games in Sinh take place first in the village’s communal house with a bout performed for ritual procedure and later, the fights are brought out for the public to enjoy.

Competitors fight on a square sandy bout surrounded by temporary stages for audiences to stand on. There is no registration for fighters in advance, like in Thu Le’s rules. A competitor comes out from the audience stage, enters the bout and tries his best to win three fights for the semi-final game.

Of course, the competitors still abide by traditional rules, which state that a winner of a fight is one who can get his rival to fall on his back on the sandpit.

This game format allows more audience members to try the fight once, but it creates chance for illegal betting at the site.

Nostalgic audiences prefer the original format held in Thu Le, which they believe could help preserve the authenticity of traditional wrestling.n Top: At the wrestling festival in Thu Le Village.

Photo: Nguyen Duc Tri Bottom: At the wrestling festival in Sinh Village.

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Gates of strength

ARCHITECTURE

Through a long and storied history of Thang Long - Hanoi, Quan Chuong Gate has remained firm

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Photo: Hoang Minh

uan Chuong is one of the Eastern gates of the earthen fortification that surrounded the Thang Long Citadel. Built in the 10th year of Le Canh Hung reign (1749) and renovated in the 3rd year of Gia Long reign (1817), it remains intact until today. This is one of the 21 gates of the old Thang Long Citadel, a national relic, ranked in 1995.

Today, almost all the other gates are only remembered by names borne by some geographical entity that stands on their place, or by historical records. For example, Cho Dua Gate is now the name of a bazaar, and Cau Giay Gate was known as the name of a brick bridge that crossed To Lich River, without having anything that reminded one of the ancient structures.

Fortunately, Hanoi still has an almost intact gate; Quan Chuong.

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Located at an end of O Quan Chuong Street, Quan Chuong Gate opens to Red River dykes and Hang Chieu Street behind it.

It has cupola form, with a watch tower at the top. The palate form gate used to have double thick wooden doors which closed at night and opened early in the morning for people to go into and out of town.

Through ups and downs of history, Quan Chuong Gate still stands solemnly, preserving for Hanoi a simple but precious structure that witnessed times of peace and war. On the left side, it has a stele carved in 1882 with instructions from the City Governor Hoang Dieu ordering the gatekeepers not to extort funeral processions that passed the gate. Besides the large passage, the gate also has two small doors on the sides.

Above the big door is written ‘Thanh Ha Gate’. That was the

gate’s original name, because it opened to Thanh Ha Village on the bank of To Lich River, where it poured into Red River.

The village covers the area of Hang Chieu, Thanh Ha and Dao Duy Tu Streets today.

The gate took the form we see today in 1817 during a major reconstruction. At the time, it was still called Thanh Ha Gate.

Quan Chuong was the rank of an officer in charge of the city guards. On Nov 20, 1873, the French attacked Hanoi for the first time. Warships coming upstream from the sea brought fire power and strong troops, who immediately stormed the gate.

Quan Chuong and over 100 city guards fought fiercely until the last one fell. Since then, Thanh Ha Gate has been named Quan Chuong Gate.

Having taken Hanoi, the French ordered the destruction

Photo: Ngo Du

of old structures to expand the city. Almost everything around was leveled. But the Quan Chuong canton chief Dao Dang Chieu had led the local people’s campaign against the destruction of the gate. They resolutely refused signing the agreement which would have made the destruction legitimate.

It’s because of their strong will that the city retained an invaluable relic of architecture.

In 2009, the United States donated $74,500 to Vietnam for the preservation of Quan Chuong Gate.

US Ambassador to Vietnam Michael W. Michalak said, ‘Quan Chuong Gate is an astoundingly beautiful architectural relic being eroded by time. It is not simply a landmark gate of the ancient Thang Long citadel, but also a symbol of the spirit and resiliency of the people of Hanoi.’ n FEBRUARY - MARCH 2017

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HALLOWED HORSE, SACRED SHRINE

TRADITION

TEXT BY KHANH LE; PHOTOS BY NGUYEN TRONG SACH

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At the Bach Ma Temple

Celebrants recall the most famous white horse in Vietnamese history

ach Ma or White Horse Temple is an architectural complex built in the mid-15th century with a harmonious arrangement and many sophisticated carvings with folklore themes on a 4,894 m2 property in Vo Liet Commune, Thanh Chuong District of Nghe An Province.

As one of the most revered temples of the Nghe An region, Bach Ma Temple has a large archive of rare and precious ancient texts and relics, recognized by the government in 1993 as a national ‘heritage of history, culture, art and architecture.’

Regarding the temple’s establishment, in a 1418 uprising against the Ming (Chinese) aggressors, King Le Loi moved his armies from Thanh Hoa to Nghe An. There, a local warlord named Phan Da joined his forces. Phan Da became the enemy’s nightmare. Even after being killed in an ambush, his devoted soul continued to serve the King in defeating the enemy and helping the people to get through natural disasters. Having been inaugurated in 1428, King Le Loi built a temple to commemorate Phan Da in a national ceremony. As Phan Da used to wear white armour and ride a white horse in battles, so local folks called him the ‘Bach Ma Deity’ and the temple ‘Bach Ma Temple.’

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The temple’s main structures include the Triple Gates, Ceremonial Door, Upper Edifice, Middle Edifice, Lower Edifice, and Left and Right Guards. All doors, pillars and beams of the temple are finely carved. The main gate is meticulously carved with beautiful and lively relieves depicting dragons, fish turned into dragons, war elephants and horses, and tigers. On the sides are parallel sentences praising Phan Da’s great contributions and the temple’s beauty and soothing power.

After its completion, successive kings visited Bach Ma Temple and conducted solemn ceremonies. Local people also organized big festivals to commemorate the ‘Bach Ma Deity.’

Today, Bach Ma Temple Festival takes place from the 8th to 10th days of the 2nd lunar month (5 to 7 March, 2017), attracting tens of thousands of locals and tourists from near and far.

Culture experts say that the Bach Ma Temple Festival’s purpose is to pass down the people’s patriotic traditions and to pay dues to the ancestors for having built and protected the nation of Vietnam.

In modern times, the Bach Ma Temple Festival still preserves the traditional solemn ceremonies such as the ‘opening of light’, the sacrificial ritual, and the gratitude recital, and the fun part, which

Chicken fighting, stick pushing and ball wrestling, of the folk games at the Bach Ma Temple Festival

includes old folk games such as ball throwing, pottery breaking, and Bach Ma poetry recital. One of the funniest and most significant games is ‘ball wrestling.’

This sport mimics the way Bach Ma Deity used to recruit his troops. Legends have it that as a local warlord he used to organize this very simple and attractive ‘ball wrestling’ game to select the smartest, strongest and most agile among the local young people.

To prepare for the game, organizers whittle the bulb of a big banana tree to make a ball 30cm in diameter weighing 5 – 7kg. The ball is boiled in water, and then sun-dried for days to ensure that it’s resilient enough to withstand rough handling.

The ball field is a clearance, about 50m long and 25m wide, at a village center or on a riverbank. At each end there is a goal which is a 50cm deep hole, also 50cm in diameter.

In a match, 14 players divide into 2 teams to struggle for the ball, fiercely but without violence. While the teams strive to put the ball into the opponent’s ‘goal’, local folks and tourists beat drums, gongs and shout at the top of their voices to cheer them. Each match lasts about 15 minutes, and the team which scores more goals is the winner.

The prizes are merely symbolic to mark the winner’s glory. n

Bach Ma Temple is on national highway 46A, about 40km from Nghe An Vinh City. From 5a.m. to 5.30 p.m. daily, every 30min, a bus leaves Vinh City and passes Bach Ma Temple Station for its final destination in Thanh Chuong Township in which there are a dozen inns at VND100,000VND150,000 /double room/night.

Thanh Chuong is a highland district with an area of about 1100km2, bordering the Bolikhamsai province of Laos. This is a part of the West Nghe An Ecological Reserve.

Thanh Chuong is inhabited by 4 ethnic groups including Kinh, Thai, Hmong, and Dan Lai, totalling about 252,000 people. It has many sites of national heritage and relics including the Bach Ma Temple, Huu Temple, Vo Liet Shrine, and Nguyen Tien Tai’s tomb and shrine.

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CRAFTS

Forgotten dishes

BY DANG KHOA

Unexpected discovery of a 500-year-old treasure A famous trade village buried by civil war

Deeply impressed by an antique pot, Mr Anabuki wrote to the then Party chief of Hai Hung Province, Mr Ngo Duy Dong.

In the letter he asked, ‘Was there a Nam Sach County under King Le Nhan Tong? Where did Ms Bui Thi Hy, who drawn patterns on the pot, learn the art of pottery painting? Where could a pottery kiln be at that time?’

The letter made Hai Hung officials mobilize culture experts for a project named ‘Hai Hung antique pottery research.’ After 2 years of scouring ancient texts, they made excavations in 14 locations in Chu Dau village of Nam Sach commune. Chu Dau means a dock on Thai Binh River, very convenient for pottery trade in the old times.

The 2m deep excavations have unearthed many valuable antique pottery items which they gave the common name of Chu Dau. Fuelled by the success, the excavations were expanded to the adjacent areas. To date, 8 excavation operations have been conducted at Nam Sach, Thai Tan and Minh Tan Communes, uncovering thousands of items such as cups, bowls, plates, pots, jars, censers and animal statuettes.

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Although there are over 100 sites still waiting for excavation, old texts and actual finds let researchers conclude that Chu Dau is a high-end strain of fine ceramics which reached the ‘jeweltransparent, paper-thin, ivory white and bell-resounding’ quality. The trade flourished in 13th–14th centuries, reached its peak in the 15th, 16th centuries and was lost in 17th century during the civil war between feudal clans Trinh and Mac. The power struggle forced many artisans to move to other places to continue practicing their art. Those who stayed changed to straw mat weaving and rice growing to survive. The fame of Chu Dau ceramics gradually faded, and its proof buried.

In 15th century the ceramics considered by researchers as ‘carriers of deep humane values of Buddhism and Confucianism’ were exported to Holland, England, France, Japan, and Turkey.

Chu Dau ceramics combined the elegance of the Ly Era and the robustness of the Tran Era. It depicted vibrant life scenes such as a person in straw hat or in long dress, child buffalo herders, birds on a blossoming apricot branch, or spotted doves hovering over a field. The enamel colours were just as vibrant, with white, opaque, green, moss green, shades of yellow, and the three shade (green, red and yellow) combinations.

Left: Chu Dau ceramic vases. Right: At ceramic workshop, Chu Dau Village, Hai Duong Province. Photos: Tien Thanh

Reviving the antique patterns

13 years after the ceramic excavation at Chu Dau, researchers were once again stunned to hear that a wrecked ship carrying 3000 items of Chu Dau ceramics was found in the seas of the Philippines.

In 1997, in turn, the Vietnamese found another wreck with 340,000 items of ancient Chu Dau ceramics near Cham island of Quang Nam Province.

In 1996, Hai Hung Province split in to Hai Duong and Hung Yen Provinces. Chu Dau Village is now part of Nam Sach District of Hai Duong Province, about 16km Northwest of Hai Duong City and 70km from Hanoi. Early in 2001, a local businessman named Nguyen Huu Thang made up his mind to restore Chu Dau Trade Village with the help of artisans from Bat Trang pottery village of Hanoi, where many ancient Chu Dau artisans found refuge over 500 years ago, and other places where the trade is flourishing such as Binh Duong and Bien Hoa. Within just a few years, in Chu Dau and the adjacent areas, hundreds of talented potters have been trained. The ancient patterns and enamels have also been restored by the artisans. Shops and workshops are resurging everywhere.

Following the footsteps of ancient artisans, today’s potters at Chu Dau revive traditional goods and invent new ones to satisfy the demands of modern life. Chu Dau Ceramic Trade Village currently makes 4 main groups of products: geomancy ceramics, souvenirs, decorative ceramics and vases.

In May 2003, Chu Dau exported their first batch of goods to Spain. Since then, Chu Dau ceramics have spread to many other countries in the world.

Today, Chu Dau ceramics are exhibited at 46 famous museums in 32 countries.

Just as the trademark of Chu Dau ceramics is regaining its oldtime gloss, the village is also receiving traders and tourists from all over the world. To satisfy their demand, in 2004 Mr Thang invested to build a thousand-square-metre ceramic exhibition house.

Besides viewing and buying fine ceramics at the Exhibition, tourists can also learn about the historical relics such as ancient kilns and the Temple of the Ancestor of the trade, Sir Dang Huyen Thong.

Visitors, if they so desire, can also engage themselves in the production process, from shaping to painting, to signing the products. n FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

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FOOD

Everything

you want at Auntie Mai's

Restaurant

W

e chuckled quite a lot when I told my family I was going to have dinner at a restaurant named ‘Di Mai’.

That means ‘Auntie Mai’. That is my wife's name and she is an aunt to quite a few people. Not only that, she is a great cook and normally I do not need to step out of doors to enjoy great Vietnamese food. But dining out is more than just eating great grub. It has to involve a thematic experience and the human touch. Restaurant Di Mai which lies but a stone's throw from Saigon's Ben Thanh Market delivers just that.

The second you go through the door you are struck by the warm, bright and subtly subdued lighting: crimson and black lampshades from the ceiling beckon you in. It seems so modern, but there is retro here too. What is that in the middle? It is a pick-up truck from the middle of the last century deftly converted to seating for a party of six. There is the cabin in the driver's seat sits the cashier with a computer till alongside her. On shelves sit an array of ceramic pots, pans and other cooking utensils of yesteryear. On the wall is a photo tableau of girls of yesteryear in their long flowing robes.

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FEBRUARY - MARCH 2017

Then there is a banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich) bar that looks as if it has been taken in from the street but smartened up. In the salad station nearby, you watch as a chef tosses up the fresh vegetables in a bowl that might have been in vogue in great grandma's days. Next to this, on view from the street and terrace, is the bar where the cold teas and fresh fruit cocktails this place is famed for are concocted. Behind a glass window is the spotlessly clean open main kitchen and alongside that is the dessert station where the Vietnamese sweet soups are prepared. Right down to the mosaic tiles and custom made hand wipes with a picture of a smiling Di Mai as a postage stamp on the wrapper, the whole atmosphere is original and paradoxical. You are comfortably indoors and yet there are non-threatening elements of the street around you. You are in the most modern of rooms, but this haunt has its relics of the past.

I was accompanied by my daughter who is in her last year at high school and wishes to go on to study interior design. She too was impressed by the decor and ambiance. However, the proof a good restaurant has to be, as with the pudding, in the eating. Here is an account of the dishes we enjoyed.

The Drinks There is an extensive wine, beer, and soft drinks list but we decided to go for what this place is well known for; namely the fruit cocktails. Incidentally, along with the baguette sandwiches these can be bought to take away. They came in old-fashioned bottles with swing back stoppers—another hard back. I had the ‘Mr Summer’, which is mango, passion fruit and honey garnished with a half slice of passion fruit. My daughter had the healthier ‘Detox’ - aptly named as it consists of beetroot, carrot and apple. These refreshing and pulpy drinks are a ‘must try’.

The ‘Goi Vit’: - Vietnamese Duck salad It is good to try a least one cold dish and we had the duck saladcrispy shredded cabbage with mouth-watering tiny slices of duck breast.

The Canh Bo Di Mai This was served in a ceramic bowl; strips of beef shank in a broth of onions herbs and ginger. Great tropical taste.

Com Hai San The classic seafood rice dish, mainly small prawns with the fluffiest bed of white rice.

Suon Heo Pork ribs marinated in ginger and chilli - I could say finger licking good but that might invoke litigation for copyright infringement by a well-known fast food chain.

Soya Bean Dessert Dessert is a no-no for me. Vietnam is not noted for its desserts, but you should try one of the many sweet soups on offer here (Che).

My daughter had a kind of blancmange made from soya bean as it is favourite of hers which she enjoys when she visits Hue, the family's home town. Whilst the taste here was different to the Hue version she still enjoyed it.

All that served with hard and soft crackers was quite enough to pleasure the taste buds and satiate the stomach. We went home pleasantly replete.

You are probably asking how affordable this restaurant could be.

Despite the high quality and uniqueness, I would put it in the midrange bracket. The fruit cocktails on offer cost between 55.000 and 85,000 dongs. The main dishes above were from VND85,000 to VND120,000. Add ten per cent in tax to these prices.

It was overall a very satisfying dining experience. I felt as if I had had only a mere taste of what this restaurant offers and would love to return to sample more. In the meantime, I am happy to continue to savour the yummy home cooking of the Auntie Mai I have in my house-my wife! You guys are not so lucky as I am and will have to try Di Mai restaurant but it is of itself a very special and unique place to dine on Vietnamese cuisine.

The Di Mai Restaurant is at 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam Street, District 1, HCMC. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tel: (08) 3821-7788. n

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FOLK MEDICINE

LINH CHI

VIETNAM'S SUPERNATURAL MUSHROOM

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BY PIP DE ROUVRAY

A cure-all out of Mother Nature's medicine chest

am Linh Chi is a mushroom which has been venerated and celebrated in Far Eastern countries for more than two thousand years, and, as such, is one of the oldest mushrooms to be used medicinally.

The name translates as ‘supernatural mushroom’. Those of you were attracted to this article seeking a hallucinogenic high, read no further. Those of you who wish to maintain good health or who wish to alleviate or cure ailments in a natural way, please read on. I myself am sixty-one years old with no medical issues and indeed the last time I fell ill was with the flu fifteen years ago. For this, I thank God and I believe my diet which includes a heavy use of fish, fruit and vegetables, extra virgin oil and drinking herbal teas and medicinal wines containing ginger, artichoke, ginseng and latterly linh chi. Linh chi, especially in Japan, can even be added to coffee but I have never tried that.

This fungus has red, orange and black and even purple varieties. The Vietnamese name derives from the Chinese ‘linh zhi’ and in Japan it is known as reishi. The Latin name ‘ganoderma lucidum’ translate as bright shining skin which tells of its appearance.

Aside from East Asia, it is also to found in the forests of Northern America. It grows out of the wood of living trees and also felled ones on logs and stumps. The maple tree is a favourite host. In the wild, only three in ten thousand trees will have the fungus.

Therefore, commercially, linh chi is ‘farmed’.

This means it is grown indoors under sterile

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conditions or outdoors on logs or wood chip beds. Its amazingly wide powers to cure and keep the body spry derive from its special enzymes that break down the lignin and cellulose in the wood it grows upon.

My knowledge and use of this mushroom I owe to my wife, who is an enthusiastic herbalist. Her home town is Hue and near the city there is a high mountain plateau hard by the Laos border. The little town of A Luoi is where we source our household linh chi.

Family members send it to us via the long distance coach companies, which is a lot cheaper than the post office. We currently pay VND1,200,000 per kilo, whereas in the Saigon markets, it goes for between two to four million dongs a kilogramme.

We are all used to certain foods and medicaments being touted as the great panacea. Most of the time they go in and out of fashion quite quickly. This one, however, is the most scientifically researched herb ever and has two millennia of continuous human use to lend its effects further credence. It is useful in combating viral infections such as influenza. It can help to cure complaints of the lung such as bronchitis and asthma. It is also prescribed for heart diseases and conditions such as high blood pressure and high cholesterol. The list goes on — kidney and liver diseases, altitude sickness, chronic fatigue syndrome (C.F.S), insomnia, stomach ulcers, poisoning, herpes pain and stress and fatigue reduction. Whilst not in the first line, research has shown it can be an adjunct in cancer treatment and even HIV. But its most

FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

Slices of the fungus. Photo: James Gordon

celebrated use is in helping us not to get sick in the first place by strengthening and balancing the immune system. There are no known side effects. As with all herbal medicine one should not expect instant results.

As this mushroom has a woody and extremely bitter taste, it cannot be eaten either raw or cooked. Thinly sliced or pulverised linh chi needs to be put in a pot of water and simmered for two hours and the water consumed. For greater concentration, the process can be repeated. It can also be made into an extract in powder, capsule or liquid form. Of course, another very pleasant way to consume it is steeped in rice wine over a period of time. This is available commercially often in very attractive bottles.

Many Vietnamese, including my wife, make it at home. Of course, it should be consumed in moderation, but should you overdose, I can tell you from personal experience there will be no hangover.

Whether you are in full health or you suffer from any ailment, I hope this introduction to an elixir which East Asians prize even above ginseng has been useful to you. Watch out for this one on your travels in Vietnam. If you do get the chance to raise a glass or two of Linh Chi wine among friends, you will be able to say with more sincerity than with most other alcoholic beverages ‘To your health’.

Acknowledgements: Truong Thi Mai has been my principal informant in writing this article.

FOLKLORE

A TALE OF TWO SPIRITS TEXT AND PHOTOS BY NGUYEN THAI HOA

I

Left and right: ‘Underworld’s God of Wealth’ worshiped in pagodas in Ho Chi Minh City

The ghost you see-and how you react-may determine your fate

n many Chinese shrines and temples in Ho Chi Minh City, one can see a figure covered in completely black or white, with a fan in his hand. Folks call him the ‘Underworld’s God of Wealth,’ ‘Local God of Wealth,’ or ‘Spirit of Impermanence.’

In Chinese mythology, the Spirit of Impermanence is a low-ranking deity in the underworld, but he is a horror for the people of this world, because it is believed that he is delegated by the Lord of the underworld to collect the souls of the dying and the sinful.

There are many kinds of Spirits of Impermanence. But among the Chinese, the Black Impermanence and the White Impermanence are the most popular. The difference is that the Black Impermanence wears black with a message written on his hat, ‘Seeing me means death’ or ‘Peace over the world.’

The White Impermanence, on the other hand, wears white with a message written on his hat, ‘Seeing me means prospering’ or ‘Seeing me is fun.’ That’s why the White Impermanence is more revered by the folks.

The White Impermanence, besides performing his duties, loves teasing people. Folklore has it that if a person, upon seeing the White Impermanence is scared and runs away, it will chase him with shouts that will make the running person die of fear. So one should not be scared and should not run.

Instead one should stand their ground and imitate its movements, and then it would naturally begin to imitate him.

The person should throw rocks and mud at the spirit, and it would throw back the precious things it wears on its neck until the last item. It would then lose, run away and lament. The person would get rich. That’s why it is written on the spirit’s hat ‘Seeing me means prospering.’

In Ho Chi Minh City, originally only Phuoc Hai Temple, 73 Mai Thi Luu St., Dist.1, HCMC, had an altar for the Underworld’s God of Wealth. But recently the spirit began to appear in many other Chinese shrines and temples. The reason for this ‘spread’ is perhaps, besides the traditional customs brought from their homeland, surely brought the ever-increasing desire for wealth and fortune.n FEBRUARY- MARCH 2017

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TRAVEL

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Sacred Mother River

Photo: Tong Tran Son

of the Quang Nam people

BY KHANH LE

goc Linh is a mountain range with many peaks between 800m and 2800m high scattered in Kon Tum, Quang Nam, Quang Ngai and Gia Lai Provinces. This highest and grandest mass of Southern Vietnamese

mountains channels much of its water to Dak Di, the main tributary of Thu Bon River. Having descended from the mountains, the water flows north, passing through Nam Tra My, Bac Tra My, Tien Phuoc, Hiep Duc, Nong Son and Duy Xuyen Districts of Quang Nam Province.

Top; below; and opposite below: Hoai River, a branch of Thu Bon River, flowing through Hoi An Old Town

Photo: Tong Tran Son

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

TRAVEL In Duy Xuyen District, the flow changes direction to southwest – northeast to join with the Vu Gia River. Before entering the East Sea at Cua Dai Estuary, Thu Bon River splits into Ba Chuom, Co Co, Dinh, Do and Hoi An rivers.

Thu Bon River has a total length of 198km. It is also the domestic river with the largest basin in Vietnam.

Passing through different landscapes and having many different branches, the river scenes are very diverse. Its upstream is wild and majestic, while the lower part is idyllic as it snakes through fertile paddies. Remarkably, Thu Bon River goes through two world cultural heritage sites, My Son Sanctuary and Hoi An Ancient Town.

Many famous traditional trade villages such as Nong Son aloe wood village, Tam Tang (Duy Xuyen) silk village and Thanh Ha (Hoi An) pottery village snuggle next to the river banks. Since 17th century, their products have gone downstream to Hoi An Harbour to spread to many destinations in the country and abroad.

The most famous section of Thu Bon is perhaps the one in Hoi An Old Town. This is actually a small branch of Thu Bon that the Quang Nam people call Hoai River. The usually slow and calm water intensifies the pensive feel of the ancient streets. At the same time, as the convergence point of goods that come to Hoi An Port, human activities around the Hoai River have always been hectic. Today, it is even more bustling, transporting tourists from all over the world for sight-seeing.

Regarding the name of the main river, legends have it that once upon a time foreign invaders killed Princess Thu Bon, daughter of King May and threw her body into the river. Compassionate locals gave her a proper funeral. Then

Catching fish on a river in Hoi An. Photo: Catalin Chitu

came an epidemic, and people prayed to heaven for help.

Princess Thu Bon heard their laments and came to the rescue. Since then, the villagers named their village and river after Her, built Her shrines and celebrate Her divinity every year.

Today, along Thu Bon River, there are many shrines and temples dedicated to Her. Every 3rd lunar month, the Duy Xuyen people have a Lady Thu Bon celebration to commemorate the person who made life on the river banks peaceful and happy. Perhaps Thu Bon is the river most soaked in the cultural heritage of Vietnam.

To the people of Quang Nam, Thu Bon is the most sacred river of all. They call it the Mother River. n

Quang Nam

Photo: Dang Van Tran FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

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n

EXPLORING

NAM DU ISLANDS

BY DANG KHOA

65

km off the shores of Rach Gia City, Kien Giang Province, Nam Du Islands were a refuge of Lord Nguyen Anh (17621820), notorious as the man who defeated the Tay Son rulers to take the throne in 1802. This fact alone urged me to go there. After 2 hours of bobbing on the waves, the group of 21 islets appeared on the horizon. 15 minutes later, the high-speed boat docked in the harbour of the Big One, a 500ha island which is the centre of An Son Commune, head of 15 inhabited islands.

THE MILKY WAY IN THE SEA

Having paid VND150,000 for a room, I took a walk around the Big One. A road asphalted since the time of the French leads to the island peak, 295m above the sea. The vastness of the sky and the sea at different layers opened before my eyes.

How big a person’s heart must be to live in this borderless universe. To the east of me, the centre of An Son Commune with about 300 roofs lining its shore. On the west, Royal Beach fishing village with 200 roofs hides under coconut trees, and hundreds of fishing boats bob lightly near the shore. The lighthouse keeper told me, ‘It’s called the Royal Beach because King Gia Long used to live there.’ 3.5 nautical miles to the east Hon Ngang Island, dwellings and boats looks like a town floating in the sea. It’s the only island without vegetation cover. All other islands of Nam Du are covered with a small forests, not tall, but quite dense.

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

Photo: Danh Thi Hong Nhung

At nightfall, lighthouse's beam begins to turn, scanning the sea with powerful illumination. For the first time I have the sense of the night amidst the sea under strong winds and myriads of stars. Electric lights of fishing villages and fish farming rafts look like stars bobbing on the water. With its density of houses and boats, Hon Ngang looks like the sea’s Milky Way. The next morning I hired a boat to visit the neighbouring islands, Hon Non Ngoai, Hon Nom Giua, Hon Nom Trong, Hon

TRAVEL Dam, Hon Hang, Hon Moc, Hon Tre and Hon Nhan. The dozen islands took me half a day of scouring. They all seem pristine, untouched by men, with craggy rocks that look like crystallized minerals.

Every now and then I saw a lone house which seemed to have been carved by the waves on the rock face for millennia. The boatman told me those belong to the people who came here from the mainland about 5 years ago to settle. At that time, they must have been true Robinson Crusoes.

Passing by a little islet, the boatman said, ‘This is the Shirt Isle. It’s called so because King Gia Long once threw away a torn shirt on it.’

DAILY LIFE ON HON NGANG

Photo: Truong Thanh Nha

Photo: Nguyen Doan Ket

Nam Du islands

Satisfied with the feast of clouds and waves around the Big One, I headed to Hon Ngang, the centre of Nam Du Commune, which included the adjacent islets such as Hon Dau, Hon Ong, Hon Bo Dap and Hon Mau. 30 minutes later, I stepped onto the Hon Ngang Pier, where thousands of boats of all sizes and fish farm cages docked. Hon Ngang is just a quarter of the Big One in area, but it hosts about 700 makeshift houses which occupy nearly half the area of this bald isle.

I found myself on a web of dirt roads zigzagging amongst a dense forest of huts. At the centre of town, there was a bazaar boiling in the heat of trading. Dozens of fish steaming furnaces line the populated area. Life on Hon Ngang is very typical of those faraway islands. Talking to some people at Hon Ngang, I found that the folks here are very free and open-minded. Perhaps this free spirit which I thought was boundless was there not only because the island was part of the west of southern Vietnam (which nurtures freedom), but also because it’s so far from the mainland. A day spent on the island of Hon Ngang was worth my while.

The next morning I decided to visit Hon Mau, the most beautiful place of the Nam Du archipelago. A 20 minute boat ride took me to the 100ha island. It was so scenic compared to the bustling Hon Ngang. A 100-roof fishing village huddled between two sandy beaches and three rock beaches, all tender and undaunted: The Northern Beach, the Black Rocks, the White Rocks, the Untamed Rocks and the Southern Beach.

From Hon Mau, I headed directly to Hon Dau, a relatively large one compared to the other islands. Primeval forests cover 95 per cent of the area. The 20 roofs of Home Beach fishing village hide under the canopy of 20 lush coconut gardens. The life stories at this most peaceful village of Nam Du were just as humbling. n

Because the sea around Nam Du rarely has storms or big winds, it’s safe to go all year round. But December to March is the best time, when Nam Du is most beautiful and enjoyable. The only way to get there is from Rach Gia Harbour. A speed boat ticket is VND500,000. A low-budget option is by usual boats with two way ticket price at VND300,000 – VND340,000. All boats to Nam Du leave at 8-9 a.m. every day except when the weather is bad. Both Hon Ngang and Big One have inns for tourists at VND150,000 – VND200,000 a room. Otherwise, one can negotiate to stay at a fishing family home. If you come to Nam Du in dry season, please spare your drinking water to share with the locals.

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VALUE FOR MONEY

RESORTS AND SPAS

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa 5 Truong Sa St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3981-234 www. danang.regency.hyatt.com

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort and Spa is offering meeting packages till 31 December. $49++ per person for a full-day package and $39++ per person for a half-day package including coffee breaks, lunch, meeting amenities and communications equipment.

Diamond Bay Resort & Spa has a two-night honeymoon package in a Diamond Jacuzzi Bungalow at VND12,490,000 till 31 March. It includes roundtrip airport transfers, full board, a romantic dinner on the beach, mud bath, spa treatment and shuttle bus to the centre of Nha Trang.

Le Lai St, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 355-888 www.anamandara-resort.com

Lotte Spa, at the Lotte Legend Saigon, prepares a special ‘Just for her’ to celebrate International Women’s Day from 6 to 19 March. It includes a 50-minute body scrub, a 70-minute facial treatment and a complimentary 30minute foot treatment with hot-stone.

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0235) 3927-927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa

Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Khanh Hoa Province. Tel: (058) 3989-898 www.rivieraresortspa.com

Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa is offering a promotion at VND1,805,000 per person per night in a twin or double sharing room. The price includes breakfast, unlimited drinks at pool bars and roundtrip airport transfers. It is valid till the end of October. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Diamond Bay Resort & Spa

Nguyen Tat Thanh Blvd, Phuoc Dong Dist, Khanh Hoa Province. Tel: (058) 3711-711 www.diamondbayresort.vn

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa has a special package from 1 March to 28 April.

VND5,100,000 per Le Petit Room for two nights with breakfast, a 30-minute foot massage, a 40 per-cent discount on body and facial treatment, a 10 per-cent discount on food and beverage and a 10 per-cent discount on the excursion. The price includes service charge and VAT.

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The Reverie Saigon

Times Square Building, 22-36 Nguyen Hue Boulevard & 57-69F Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3520-8828

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Dalat Tel: (063) 3831-515 www.dalatedensee.com

Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa has a package; ‘Revival Spring & Activities Package 2017’, including a two-night’s stay in a Mimosa Superior Room, breakfast, dinner, shuttle bus and roundtrip airport transfers. It costs VND3,400,000++ including service charge and VAT.

The Cliff Resort and Residences

Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3719-111

Zest Spa, at The Cliff Resort and Residences, is offering a 60-minute Shirodhara massage. Shirodhara is an Indian ancient healing practice. It involves gently pouring liquids over the forehead in a regular stream for a definite period. It is an effective therapy for mental relaxation.

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2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, Ben Nghe ward, District 1 Tel: (08) 3823-3333 www.lottehotel.com/saigon

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa

Palm Garden Resort

Palm Garden Resort is offering a package ‘Family at get-away paradise’ at VND5,999,000++ including two-night’s stay in a Superior Garden View Room, breakfast, roundtrip airport transfers, lunch or dinner, 2 vouchers with a 50-percent off for body massage, 20 per-cent discount on laundry service and 15 per-cent discount on sport and recreation.

Lotte Legend Saigon

FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

Till the end of March, The Spa at The Reverie Saigon is offering a 30 per-cent off all treatments and a complimentary 30-minute foot massage. Reflecting a sophisticate lifestyle and modern design philosophies, The Spa located on level 6th and 7th of Times Square, has outdoor swimming pools, 24-hour fitness centre, beauty services, boutique retail choices and innovative thermal experience areas.

HOTELS

Ana Mandara Hue

Thuan An Town, Phu Vang Dist, Hue Tel: (0234) 3983-333

Ana Mandara Hue is offering a package ‘Super Sale’ at VND5,900,000++ per Pool Villa per night with breakfast, BBQ dinner or spa treatments, return airport transfer and shuttle bus. It is valid till 31 March.

Hotel Saigon Morin

30 Le Loi St, Hue. Tel: (0234) 3823-526 www.morinhotel.com.vn

Hotel Saigon Morin is offering ‘116th Anniversary Promotion’ till 31 December. The

VALUE FOR MONEY rates start from VND2,251,083++ per room per night with breakfast and one way airport or railway station transfer.

Indochine Palace Hue 105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com

Indochine Palace Hue is running a ‘Weekend Package’ till 31 March. It costs VND5,800,000 per room for two nights in a Palace Deluxe Room with breakfast, dinner, return airport transfer and a 60-minute spa treatment.

The Costa Nha Trang Hotel & Residence 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3737-037

The Costa Nha Trang Hotel & Residence is offering a 40 per-cent discount on room rates for those who like and share its fan page. The promotion is applicable for stays from 1 March to 31 May. The rates start from VND2,280,000 (after discounted) per night per room including breakfast for two.

The Alcove Library Hotel

133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh St, Ward 8, Phu Nhuan Dist, HCMC. Tel: (08) 6256-9966 www.alcovehotel.com.vn

The Alcove Library Hotel is running ‘Exclusive Package’; those who stay three nights will get one night free. The price start from VND1,755,000 ++ per room per night in an Alcove Queen Room with breakfast, and free airport drop-off service. It is valid until 31 March.

FOOD PROMOTIONS

In March, the chefs at the Fortuna Hotel Hanoi launch to diners new dishes and beverages such as Black Pepper Beef Ribs, FourFlavour Chicken, Fried Pork & Vegetable Buns, Salted Egg and Pandan Puff, Stir Fried Crab with Black Pepper, Singapore Style Chili Crab, Crab with XO Sauce, Stewed Catfish in Coconut Water, French Mont Blanc, ‘I Love You’ cocktail with a combination of sweet Bailey Irish cream and coffee-flavored Kahlua, Cinderella Mocktail with four tropical ingredients: orange, pineapple, lime and pomegranate. So, don’t miss them.

Sheraton Hanoi Hotel

11 Xuan Dieu St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel : (04) 3719-9000

Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill the Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is honoured to be one in 1,000 restaurants of the programme ‘Gout de France’ to demonstrate the glory in French cuisine around the world. The chefs will prepare a special French set menu for gourmands on 21 March at VND1,100,000++. The menu includes Pan Fried Foie Gras served with honey citrus biscuit, saffron vanilla milk foam, black truffle; potato cream soup, sautéed wild mushrooms and truffle foam; crust-stuffed French pigeon cooked in puff pastry, stuffed with foie gras, pines, truffle and thickening meat jus; Flavoured Brie de Meaux with mascarpone and truffle and Semi Freddo, raspberry, wild berry coulis, meringue crumble lemon curd.

Ngan Dinh Saigon

52-54-56 Dong Khoi St., District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3982-6688

Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, Ngan Dinh Saigon Restaurant launched in early January, serving a wide range of Cantonese cuisine. The restaurant offers a new selection of Cantonese recipes from Chef Chung Man Poi. Its specialties includes succulent barbecued pork, Peking duck, baked abalone puffs with diced chicken, sautéed seafood with vegetables, sautéed wild mushrooms with vegetables, Yang Chow fried rice, and for dessert coconut marshmallow rabbits.

For lunch, the restaurant introduces an expansive dim sum menu including shrimp dumplings, steamed pork buns, dried seafood dumplings in soup, steamed scallop dumplings, wanton with spicy oil sauce and steamed pork spare ribs with black bean sauce.

Open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Rex Hotel

141 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3829-2185

Michelia Hotel

4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820

Fortuna Hotel Hanoi

6B Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333

Red Tilapia Restaurant, at the Michelia Hotel, prepares a buffet dinner at the pool side with more than 60 mouth-watering BBQ dishes. It cots VND250,000 for adult and VND125,000 for children.

Rooftop Garden Bar, at the Rex Hotel, located in the hustle and bustle of Saigon and offers a splendid city view at night. From 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. those who order well-known cocktail O’Clock Follies, a unique combination of rum, lemon, cucumber and basil, will get a complimentary beer or soft drink. From 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. those who order four portions of beefsteaks will get an Italian Terre Wine. The offers are valid till 31 March. nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

Rates may be subject to 5-per-cent service charge and 10-per-cent VAT if there is no statement to the contrary.

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EVENTS EXHIBITIONS

A series of sketchy animals and portraits is on till 5 March at Ke Quan, 81B Xuan Dieu St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi. The drawings are made by Emile Rousseau, a tattoo artist, living in Hanoi.

Prints and posters will be available for sale.

HANOI

Northern Expression Till 28 February

Enlightened paintings Till 19 March

Urban Sketchers Hanoi is displaying their Hanoi sketches till 28 February at Ca Phe Thu Bay, 3A Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi.

The exhibition aims to record the heritage, beautiful images and distinct lifestyle of Hanoi.

Shape of my art Till 5 March

Truong Tien Tra, invites visitors to his ‘Zen’ exhibition to meditate through a series of his oil on canvas paintings that create a sense of peace and serenity. The paintings are simplified the form and colour. By circumventing all pain and obsession with the past, letting go of what does not belong to us, dark hues and disfigured forms of life, people will learn to write their own story. The exhibition is on till 19 March at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi. Free entry.

MUSIC

‘Shape of Round’, a painting exhibition by Pham Khac Quang, is on at Goethe-Institut in Hanoi till 5 March. The artworks are created by the method of reduction woodcut. His technique works with multiple colours, but only one printing plate. After printing one colour, the plate is further processed and the next colour is applied so that more and more of the printing plate are removed. With a drilling machine, Quang cuts circular holes into the plate and in this way creates impressive works, some of which are only recognizable from the distance.

The exhibition includes portrayals of members in his family and landscapes. It is the result of all the happy and sad moments in his life.

Goethe-Institut, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi.

A night of rock with COCC, others.

26 February

Rock bands, including COCC, Empty Space and Squideye from Vietnam, and Spring.Fall. Sea from Thailand, will perform from 7p.m. to 11 p.m. on 26 February at Rec Room, 20th Floor, Hanoi Creative City, 1 Luong Yen St, Hanoi. Ticket: VND150,000

Amor and Yeu 11 March

Pictures for skin Till 5 March

Enjoy French and Vietnamese love songs performed in French style of Jazz Manouche at 8 p.m. 11 March at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi.

Songbird to perform in Hanoi Tuesday to Sunday’s nights

With its stylish French décor, Le Club is the perfect venue for music lovers in Hanoi. Michele Kaye will perform jazz music every night from Tuesday to Sunday, 8.45 p.m. onwards at the Le Club, Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi.

Born in Toronto, Canada, Michele comes from a musical family and she naturally turned to singing at a very early age. Sultry and alluring, Michele’s voice never ceases to captivate her audience. She flawlessly translates the passion of the song, taking the listener on an emotional journey. Her melodies are memorable, as is her stage presence and her ability to connect with her audience. Michele proves herself as a singer and musician by using her extensive vocal capabilities and incredible ear for phrasing and harmony to put her own stamp on every song.

Heaven and Hell Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday in February

Star Galaxy introduces to audiences in Hanoi the Ionah Show at 8 p.m. to 10 p.m. every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday in February. The show is inspired from the Divine Comedy by Dante Alighieri and Western mythology. The play elaborately combines many entertainment art styles with visual art including circus, dance, hip-hop, sound effects and lights.

Ticket: VND750,000 to VND950,000 Star Galaxy, 87 Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi FESTIVALS

World cuisine and civilization In March

Hanoi Culture & Food Festival will take place in March at Ly Thai To Flower Garden, Hoan

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

EVENTS Kiem Dist., Hanoi. There will be more than 50 food stalls from Vietnam and International countries introducing their specialties and culture. Also, there will be art performances and traditional music.

A rose by any other name 3-8 March

Hoang Duc Trung, who won merit by taking poor people from Le Mat to the capital to reclaim wasteland and build 13 barracks to the west of Thang Long Citadel. The festival involves a water procession from the village well, catching fish and offering them to the gods, feasts and processions. Le Mat Village is well-known for its traditional craft of catching and raising snakes.

Pagoda Days 1 April

‘Bulgaria Rose Festival and Friend’ will be held for the first time at Thong Nhat Park, Le Duan St, Hanoi from 3-8 March. Visitors will have a chance to admire the beauty of over 300 kinds of roses. Also, the festival has a carnival decorated with roses, a music festival performed by Bulgarian and Vietnamese artists, food zones with specialties from Bulgaria, the beauty contest ‘The Queen of Rose’ and a wide range of souvenirs made from essential rose oil.

The Bulgaria is one of the most remarkable events in Bulgaria, attracting thousands of tourists.

Princess worship 30 March

The Tay Ho Temple Festival in honour of Princess Lieu Hanh, the Holy Mother, will be held at Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi, on the 3rd day of the third lunar month every year (30 March, 2017). The festival includes a palanquin procession from Tay Ho Temple along Yen Phu, Co Ngu, Quan Thanh and Hang Dau streets, stopping at Nghia Lap Temple before returning to Tay Ho Temple. The festival highlight is a chau van singing contest.

Tay Phuong Pagoda Festival is held on the 5th day of the third lunar month (1 April, 2017) at Tay Phuong Pagoda, Thach Xa Ward, Thach That Dist, Hanoi. Visitors have a chance to learn about the value of the pagoda, recognized as a special national relic, and its 34 ancient statues, one of Vietnam’s national treasures.

The pagoda is notable for its Le Dynasty architecture and woodwork, and the festival involves Buddhist rituals and ceremonies to confer blessings and good fortune. Other activities include puppets, tug-of-war, cock fighting, human chess and wrestling.

QUANG NAM PROVINCE

Festival for Mother 9 March, 2017

Ba (Lady) Thu Bon, the female spirit considered the Mother of Quang Nam Province, will be honoured by a festival held at Duy Tan Commune, Duy Xuyen District, Quang Nam Province, from the 12nd second lunar month (9 March). The celebrations include boat races, a palanquin procession and folk games.

Goddess of compassion 14 to 16 March

There will be a ‘Tango Night’ from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m. every Saturday at Top Bar at the A la carte Danang Beach, 200 Vo Nguyen Giap St, Danang.

Also, the bar offers ‘Buy 1 get 1 cocktail and beer free’.

BA RIA - VUNG TAU PROVINCE

Our Lady of the Sea 7 to 9 March

Dinh Co Festival is one of the biggest events for the fishermen living on the southern coast of Vietnam. The festival includes the ritual of worshipping Sea Gods and the ritual of worshipping of the Mother Goddess. Every year it is held from the 10th to 12th of the second lunar month (7 to 9 March, 2017) at Dinh Co Temple located on the side of Thuy Van Mountain, Long Hai Town, Long Dien Dist., Baria-Vung Tau Province. The temple was built to honour ‘Co’ who believed in protecting the villagers. There are many activities in the festival, including rituals of welcoming Sea Gods from the ocean, traditional art performances, and lion and dragon dances.

HO CHI MINH CITY

Two for Hanoi 1 March

Snake village party 17 to 19 April

Le Mat Village Festival takes place from the 21th to 23th of the third lunar month (17 to 19 April, 2017) at the village in Viet Hung Ward, Long Bien Dist., Hanoi, to commemorate Mr

King of the Ballroom Dances Every Saturday night

Quan Yin Festival is one of the biggest events of the year, attracting thousands of visitors to Danang in the aim of praying for the country. The festival is held from the days 16th, 17th and 18th of second lunar month every year at Quan The Am Pagoda, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang. This year, it falls from 14 to 16 March. It includes two parts: Buddhism rituals and festivals with a lot of fun activities such as traditional games, folk songs, calligraphy, chess contest, floating lanterns and cooking vegetarian food.

World-famous Jazz guitarist Nguyen Le will launch his new album ‘Hanoi Duo’ accompanied by talented musician Ngo Hong Quang at 8 p.m. at Idecaf, 28 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, HCMC. This album is inspired by Vietnamese contemporary music, which is a genre of colourful, multiple styles, upbeat, sensitive and very intelligent.

Cool pool Till 20 May, 2017

Come to Saigon Soul Pool Party every Saturday till 20 May, 2017 at the largest pool in Saigon of New World Hotel. The party has beverages and mouth-watering dishes. Also, the atmosphere will be stirred up with world-class DJs. New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, District 1, HCMC. Ticket: VND150,000

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For subscription and advertising, please call Thuy Phuong / 0969 47 3579 / email: vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com

DIRECTIONS SAPA, HALONG, HAI PHONG EMERGENCIES POLICE : FIRE :

AMBULANCE :

113 114 115

SAPA

(TELEPHONE CODE: 020) Sapa is a former French hill station in northwestern Vietnam, in Lao Cai Province, near the Chinese border.

A number of minority cultures including the H’mong, Dao and Tay live in villages in the countryside around Sapa.

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Cat Cat View Hotel 46 Fan Xi Pang St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-946 www.catcathotel.com Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel & Spa 23B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3872-907 www.chapagarden.com Chau Long Sapa Hotel

U Sapa Hotel

8 Cau May, Sapa Tel: (020) 3871-996 www.uhotelsresorts.com RESTAURANTS Buffalo Bell Restaurant 25 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-455 Delta Restaurant 33 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-799 Fansipan Restaurant 23 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-556

HALONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 033) With around 1,600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay, about 170 km east of Hanoi, is well known for its limestone seascape.

Overnight boat trips out of Halong City are a popular way to see it.

HOSPITALS

Asean Halong Hotel Hau Can St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3640-034 www.aseanhalonghotel.com Halong Hidden Charm Hotel Block 22D, Tuan Chau Villas, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-360 www.hiddencharmhotel.com.vn Halong Palace Hotel 1, Block 20 Dong Hung Thang, Hoang Quoc Viet St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3619-819 www.halongpalacehotel.com Halong Plaza Hotel 8 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-810 www.halongplaza.com Heritage Halong Hotel 88 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-888 www.heritagehalonghotel.com.vn Mường Thanh Halong Hotel No.7, Block 20, East of Hung Thang, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3812-468/ (033) 3819-777 www.muongthanhhotel.vn Novotel Ha Long Bay 160 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Saigon Halong Hotel Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-845 www.saigonhalonghotel.com StarCity Halong Bay Hotel

Bai Chay Hospital Gieng Day Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-557 www.benhvienbaichay.vn 24 Dong Loi St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-245 www.chaulonghotel.com.vn Holiday Sapa Hotel 16 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-874 www.holidaysapa.com Mường Thanh Sapa Hotel 44, Ngu Chi Son, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3887-766 www.muongthanh.vn Royal Hotel 54B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3771-131 www.royalsapahotel.com Topas Ecolodge Thanh Kim Ward, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (04) 3715-1005 www.topasecolodge.com Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa Xuan Vien St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-522 www.victoriahotels.asia

TRAVEL

Halong Tourism 1 Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-272 Quang Ninh Tourism Company Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-350 Syrena Cruises Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

\ Reu Island, Bai Chay, Ha Long, Viet Nam Tel: (033) 3556-868 www.vinpearl.com RESTAURANTS

Co Ngu Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3511-363 Jumbo Vietnam Floating Restaurant 119 Le Thanh Tong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3624-888 Sea Food Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-822

Halong Gold Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-142

BARS & CAFÉS

Emeraude Café 6A Le Thanh Tong St, Hon Gai, Halong Tel: (033) 3849-266 www.emeraude-cruises.com Royal International Gaming Club and Villa Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-777

HAI PHONG CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 031) HOTELS, RESORTS

Traditional Medicine Hospital Cot 8, Hong Ha Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3838-113 Vietnam-Sweden Hospital Thanh Son Ward, Uong Bi Commune, Halong Tel: (033) 3854-037 www.bvubqn.tk

Vinpearl Halong

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catba Princes Hotel 168 Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-058 www.starcityhalongbay.com In the centre of Halong, StarCity Halong Bay Hotel offers 152 wellequipped rooms, with many breathtaking views of Halong Bay Tuan Chau Island Holiday Villa Halong Bay 303 Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3888-899 www.catbaprinceshotel.com Catba Sunrise Resort Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3887-360 www.catbasunriseresort.com

Tuan Chau Island, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-999 www.holidayvillahalongbay.com

Avani Hai Phong Harbour View 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3827-827 www.avanihotels.com

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A 1. B aD inh S quare Ba Dinh Square

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rison 2. H oa L oP Hoa Lo Prison

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Stt Joseph Joseph’s Cathedral 3. S ’s C athedral

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ouse Opera House 4. Hanoi O pera H

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Cot Co Tower 5. C ot C oT ower

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Women’s 6. W omen’s Museum

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7. H oC hi M inh Museum Ho Chi Minh

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8. IImperial mperial C itadel of T Citadel Thang Long hang L ong

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9. V ietnam National National Museum of History Vietnam History F3 10. V ietnam M ilitary H istory Museum D2 Vietnam Military History illar 11. O ne P One Pillar

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ausoleum 12. H oC hi M inh M Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

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13. Ngo on T emple Ngocc S Son Temple

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14. Dong Da H ill Hill

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15. Dong X uan M arket Xuan Market

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2

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An entry in the Directions section is either editorial or advertising To advertise, and be certain that your entry appears, please contact

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Ms. Thuy Phuong Mobile: 0969 47 3579

STREET GUIDE

Ba Trieu...................E3, E4 Bac Son.........................D1 Bach Dang.....................F2 Bach Mai........................E4 Bat Dan..........................E2 Bich Cau........................C2 Buoi................................A1 Cat Linh..........................C2 Cha Ca....................E1, E2 Cua Bac.........................D1 Cua Dong.......................D2

Da Tuong.......................E3 Dang Tat.........................D1 Dao Duy Anh.................D4 Dao Duy Tu.............E1, E2 Dien Bien Phu................D2 Doc Ngu.........................A1 Doi Can.............A1, B2, C2 Duong Thanh.................E2 Gam Cau........................E1 Giai Phong.....................D4 Giang Vo.....A3 ,B3 ,B2,C2

Hai Ba Trung.....E2, E3, F3 Ham Long......................E3 Han Thuyen....................F3 Hang Bac.......................E2 Hang Bo.........................E2 Hang Bong.....................E2 Hang Buom....................E2 Hang Can.......................E2 Hang Chuoi....................F3 Hang Cot........................E1 Hang Da.........................E2 Hang Dao.......................E2

Hang Dau.......................E1 Hang Ga.........................E2 Hang Gai........................E2 Hang Khay.....................E2 Hang Khoai....................E1 Hang Ma.........................E1 Hang Quat......................E2 Hang Trong....................E2 Hang Chieu....................E1 Hang Luoc......................E1 Hao Nam........................C2 Hoa Ma...........................F3

Hoang Dieu.............D1, D2 Hoang Hoa Tham............... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 Hoang Van Thu..............D1 Hoe Nhai........................E1 Hung Vuong............D1, D2 Huynh Thuc Khang........A3 Kham Thien.............C3, D3 Kim Ma..............A2, B2, C2 La Thanh.................B3, C3 Lang Ha..........................B3 Nguyen Chi Thanh.........A3

Le Dai Hanh...................E4 Le Duan............D2, D3, D4 Le Hong Phong.............D2 Le Lai..............................F2 Le Thai To.......................E2 Le Thanh Tong...............F3 Le Van Huu....................E3 Lieu Giai........................A2 Lo Duc......................F3, F4 Lo Su..............................F2 Luong Ngoc Quyen.......E2 Luong Van Can..............E2

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OF HA NOI

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7 5 10 13 3

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Ly Nam De..............E1, E2 Ly Quoc Su....................E2 Ly Thai To.......................F2 Ly Thuong Kiet........E3, F3 Mai Hac De..............E3, E4 Ngo Quyen.....................F3 Ngo Si Lien....................D2 Ngo Thi Nham................E3 Ngoc Ha.........................C1 Ngoc Khanh...................B2 Nguyen Canh Chan......D1 Nguyen Cong Hoa.........B2

Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ .................................E3, E4 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Huu Huan........ F2 Nguyen Khuyen.............D2 Nguyen Luong Bang.....C3 Nguyen Thai Hoc....C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien......... ........................................D3 Nguyen Van To..............E2 Nha Chung.....................E2 Nha Tho.........................E2

Nui Truc..........................B2 Pham Dinh Ho................F3 Pham Ngu Lao...............F3 Phan Boi Chau.......D2, D3 Phan Chu Trinh..............F3 Phan Dinh Phung..........D1 Phan Huy Chu................F3 Pho Duc Chinh...............F3 Pho Hue...................E3, E4 Phu Doan.......................E2 Phung Hung............E1, E2 Quan Su..................E2, E3

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Quan Thanh...................D1 Quang Trung...........E2, E3 Quoc Tu Giam...............D2 Son Tay..........................C2 Thai Phien......................E4 Thanh Cong...................B3 Thanh Nien....................D1 Tho Nhuom.............E2, E3 Thuy Khue.......................... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 To Hien Thanh...............E4 Tong Dan........................F2

4

Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Hung Dao................... ...........................D3, E3, F3 Tran Huy Lieu................B2 Tran Khanh Du...............F3 Tran Khat Chan..............F4 Tran Nguyen Han..........F2 Tran Nhan Tong......D3, E3 Tran Nhat Duat..............E1 Tran Phu........................D2 Tran Quang Khai............F2 Tran Qui Cap.................D2

9

Tran Quoc Toan......D3, E3 Tran Thanh Tong............F3 Tran Xuan Soan................. .................................E3, E4 Trang Thi........................E2 Trang Tien................E2, F3 Trieu Viet Vuong......E3, E4 Trinh Hoai Duc...............C2 Tue Tinh.........................E3 Yen Phu..........................E1 Yersin..............................F4 Yet Kieu..........................D3

DIRECTIONS HANOI HANOI

HOTELS

(TELEPHONE CODE: 04)

MEDICAL CENTRES

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Acupuncture Institute 49 Thai Thinh St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3563-1069 Hanoi French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3577-1100 International SOS Clinic 1 Dang Thai May St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0666

Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 www.hanoi.hilton.com Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com/hanoi

Thuy Tran Otolaryngology Clinic 6 Do Quang St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi (6/61 Tran Duy Hung Avenue) Tel: (04) 3556-6124 www.taimuihongthuytran.com Vinmec international hospital 458 Minh Khai St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3974-3556 AIRLINES Air France 1 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3484 Qatar Airways Hilton Hanoi Opera Building, M floor, 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-6767 www.qatarairways.com Singapore Airlines 17 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi.

Tel: (04) 3826-8888 Vietnam Airlines 25 Trang Thi St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-0320 TRAVEL

Amega Travel Hancorp Plaza, 72 Tran Dang Ninh St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3783-3570 www.amegatours.net Buffalo Tours 10th Floor, 70-72 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-0702 www.buffalotours.com Emeraude Classic Cruises 46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com Exotissmo 3rd Floor, 66A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com Topas Travel 52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715-1005 www.topastravel.vn

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HERITAGE

Pullman Hanoi 40 Cat Linh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-0808 www.pullman-hanoi.com Sheraton Hanoi Hotel 11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 www.sofitel-legend.com RESTAURANTS Au Lac do Brazil II 6A Cao Ba Quat St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-5224 Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com Serving French food with a Vietnamese cuisine Hoa Vien Brauhaus 1A Tang Bat Ho St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3972-5088 www.hoavien.vn The restaurant has been famous for its production of Czech beer Le Tonkin Restaurant 14 Ngo Van So St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3457 www.letonkinrestaurant.vn Serves Vietnamese food

BOOK STORE

Infostones Bookshop 41 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-2993 Thousands of magazines and books by hundreds of publishing houses worldwide SHOPS

Craft Link 43 and 51 Van Mieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-7710 Ha Dong Silk 102 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3928-5056

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

Tan My Embroidery 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1579 Viet Culture 1 Trang Thi St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-7417 Mekong Quilts 13 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4831 www.mekong-quilts.org

FURNITURE/ INTERIOR Dome Au Co 9 Au Co St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-5866 Dome Yen The 10 Yen The St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-6036

SIGHTSEEINGS

Ba Dinh Square 36A Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Ba Dinh Square, where President Ho Chi Minh declared Vietnam’s independence in September 1945, is a complex of historic sites.

Cot Co Tower 28 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Cot Co Tower, the so-called Flag Tower, is now part of the Vietnam Military History Museum complex. The Tower was built in 1950, under the Nguyen Dynasty, with the help of French engineers. The tower has 36 flower-shaped windows. At the top of the tower flies the flag of Vietnam.

Hanoi Opera House 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Designed by a French architect along the lines of the Paris Opera House, it is embellished with wonderful Gothic statuary. For many decades, Hanoi Opera House has been a centre for theatre, traditional music and dance, symphonies, traditional and classical music. This, the largest theatre in Vietnam, was completed in 1911.

Hoa Lo Prison ‘La Maison Centrale’, the prison on Hoa Lo Street in Hanoi, was built by the French in 1896 and became the place where generations of Vietnamese freedom fighters were held.

St Joseph’s Cathedral 40 Nha Chung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Fresh missionaries built this cathedral in the late 19th century. The small but beautiful panes of stained glass were created in Paris in 1906. Also of note is the ornate altar, with its high gilded sidewalls.

MUSEUMS

Hanoi Museum 2 Pham Hung (next to Vietnam National Convention Centre), Me Tri Commune, Tu Liem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6287-06 04

Opening hour: 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Free entrance Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 37345427 www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000 Vietnam National Museum of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi 25 Tong Dan St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed every first Monday of months.

Entry fee VND40,000 ($1.82) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95) Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND40,000 ($2) Women’s Museum 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

DIRECTIONS NINH BINH, NGHE AN, QUANG BINH, HUE, DANANG, HOI AN

NINH BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 030) Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien Dist., Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 www.emeraldaresort.com Ninh Binh Legend Hotel Tien Dong Zone, Ninh Khanh Ward, Ninh Binh City.

Tel: (030) 3899-880 www.ninhbinhlegendhotel.com

NGHE AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0238) Muong Thanh Song Lam Hotel 13 Quang Trung St, Quang Trung Ward, Vinh, Nghe An Province Tel: (0238) 3737-666 www.songlam.muongthanh.vn

Imperial Hotel 8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3882-222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Indochine Palace Hotel 105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue. La Residence Hotel & Spa

HOTELS, RESORTS

HOTELS, RESORTS

Sun Spa Resort My Canh, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (0232) 3842-999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com TRAVEL

Oxalis Adventure Tours Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province. Tel: (0232)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn

5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com Step back in time to Art Deco's golden age with a stay at La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa, MGallery by Sofitel. Nestled along the fabled Perfume River overlooking the former Imperial Citadel, La Residence is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece with luxurious cultural and culinary experiences. This former governor's residence with 122 guestrooms and suites offers visitors a warm hospitality and a chance to relive the pleasures of a bygone era.

Lang Co Beach Resort

HUE

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0234) Hue is a city on the Perfume River in lowland central Vietnam and was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. Many imperial structures remain. They were named part of UNESCO World Heritage in 1993. Hue is also known for its particular cuisine.

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Alba Spa Hotel 29 Tran Quang Khai St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3828-444 www.albavietnam.com Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa 588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue Tel: (0234) 3978-484 www.hueriversideresort.com

Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant 110A Le Ngo Cat St, Thuy Xuan Ward, Hue Tel: (0234) 3898-220 www.thientamrestaurant.com Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant features a Hue garden house with a simple design and a serene atmosphere. The restaurant serves a variety of Hue vegetarian food, from royal to local dishes, at a reasonable price.

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0236)

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0232)

Bao Ninh Beach Resort Ha Duong, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (0232) 3854-866 www.baoninhbeachresort.com.vn

RESTAURANT

DANANG

QUANG BINH

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

30 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234)3823-526 www.morinhotel.com.vn Vedanā Lagoon Resort & Spa Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (0234) 3681-688 www.vedanalagoon.com

463 Lac Long Quan St., Lang Co Town, Phu Loc Dist, Thua Thien Hue Province Tel: (0234) 3873-555 www.langcobeachresort.com.vn Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (0234) 3885-461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com Hotel Saigon Morin

Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang. Tel: (0236) 3968-888 www.vinpearl.com MUSEUM Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

HOI AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0235) A major port town from the 15th to 19th centuries, Hoi An has well preserved vestiges of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cultures. The buildings are now often used for tailor’s shops. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is a little over 30 km south of Danang, on the central coast.

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Diamond Sea Hotel 232 Vo Nguyen Giap St, Son Tra Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3939-777 www.diamondseahotel.com Grand Mercure Danang Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3797-777 www.accorhotels.com/7821 Green Plaza Hotel 238 Bach Dang St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3223-399 www.greenplazahotel.vn Sitting along the Han River, the four-star hotel boasts elegance and unique accommodations in Vietnamese design and a stunning view of river, mountain and city Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3958-888 www.pullman-danang.com Novotel Danang Premier Han River 36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang. Tel: (0236) 3929-999 www.novotel-danang-premier.com Samdi Hotel 203-211 Nguyen Van Linh St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3586-222 www.samdihotel.vn

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Anantara Hoi An Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3914-555 www.hoi-an.anantara.com Aurora Riverside Hotel & Villas 242 Cua Dai St, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3924-111 www.aurorahoian.com Hoi An Silk Village 28 Nguyen Tat Thanh Str, Tan An Ward, Hoi An City,Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 392-1144 www.hoiansilkvillage.com Hotel Royal Hoi An, Mgallery Collection 39 Dao Duy Tu St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3950-777 www.mgallery.com Kiman Hotel & Spa 461-463 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3920 430 www.kimanhoianhotel.com Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Au Co Road, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3937-777 www.sunrisehoian.vn Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa

Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam 255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3961-777 www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cdv FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017 I

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DIRECTIONS QUY NHON, NHA TRANG, PHAN THIET Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An 5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An. Tel: (0235) 3927888. www.river-beachresort.com

Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel 38 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province.

Tel: (058) 3889-999 www.havanahotel.vn Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa

MUSEUM

Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation 10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0235) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

QUY NHON

(TELEPHONE CODE: 056) HOTELS, RESORTS

AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3840-132 www.avanihotels.com/quynhon

Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3989-898 Email: info@rivieraresortspa.com www.rivieraresortspa.com

Michelia Hotel 4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820 www.michelia.vn

Quang Trung Museum Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50).

Free for children under six

Mường Thanh Grand Nha Trang Hotel 6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3552-468 www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn

NHA TRANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 058) On the central coast, Nha Trang is a city originally known for beautiful beaches but these have lately been found to suffer from pollution due to modern life, development and tourism, like other popular resort areas in Vietnam. It has large numbers of foreign tourists, island-hopping, scuba diving, sightseeing and lounging on the beach.

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Champa Island Nha Trang Resort & Spa 304, 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3568-888 Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang I

Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-598 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Quater 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3828-288 www.aromabeachresort.com With 52 authentic Vietnamese rooms and bungalows, the hotel offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the blue sea Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

Muine Mud Bath & Spa

133A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-481 Email: sales1@bunkhoangmuine.com www.bunkhoangmuine.com Muine Ocean Resort & Spa 10 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-616 www.muineoceanresort.com Muine Bay Resort

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-007 www.bamboovillageresortvn.com Blue Bay Muine Resort & Spa

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com Ocean Dunes Resort 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3822-393 www.oceandunesresort.com.vn Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa 5 Quarter, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3748-868 Email: info@sandunesbeach.com www.sandunesbeach.com

SHOPPING

FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com

Aroma Beach Resort & Spa

Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com

Khanh Hoa Salanganes Nest Company 248 Thong Nhat St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-472 yensaokh@yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn www.yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn

Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa

PHAN THIET

(TELEPHONE CODE: 062) Sitting on the coast about 200 km north of Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Thiet is a beach city with many resorts and hotels.

HOTELS, RESORTS

InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777 www.intercontinental.com

MUSEUM

HERITAGE

Alexandre Yersin Museum Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-406

Diamond Bay Resort & Spa Nguyen Tat Thanh Blvd, Phuoc Ha, Phuoc Dong Dist., Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3711-711 www.diamondbayresort.vn

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

44 • V I E T N A M

MUSEUM

Suoi Nuoc, Muine, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3836-888 Email: info@bluebaymuineresort.com www.bluebaymuineresort.com

Saigon Mui Ne Resort 56 - 97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3741-044 www.saigonmuineresort.com.vn

DIRECTIONS DALAT, BINH DUONG, HO CHI MINH CITY Seahorse Resort & Spa

Km 11 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province.

Tel: (062) 3847-507 reservation@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com Sea Links City Resort & Golf Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-088 www.sealinksbeachhotel.com

Monet Garden Villa

3 Nguyen Du St., Dalat City, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3810-826 www.monetgarden.com.vn

BINH DUONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0650) An Lam Saigon River

Cham Culture Exhibition Centre Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3641-456. Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday. Free entrance

DALAT

(TELEPHONE CODE: 063) Dalat, founded in 1893, has Frencharchitecture, pine forests and a perpetually cool climate. It is in the southern Central Highlands, about 300 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City.

HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa

Hotel Majestic 1 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (08) 3829-5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com

InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner Hai Ba TrungSt. & Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999 www.intercontinental.com/Saigon

Transviet Travel Travel House, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3933-0777 www.transviet.com.vn HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province . Tel: (062) 3813-000 Email: resa.phanthiet@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia MUSEUM

Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (08) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.net

Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon

21/4 Trung St., Vinh Phu Ward, Thuan An Dist., Binh Duong Province Tel: (0650) 3785-555 Email: rsvn.sr@anlam.com www.anlam.com

HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 08) HOSPITALS

Kelly Hotel 42-44 Thu Khoa Huan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (08) 3823-3364 www.kellyhotel.com.vn An elegant and cosy hotel with good service. Within walking distance to Ben Thanh market, Independence Palace and several museums.

Vietnamese food is served at reasonable prices.

Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-3333 www.lottehotel.com Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com

253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Email: Info@eastingrandSaigon.com www.eastingrandsaigon.com

Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2185 www.rexhotelvietnm.com

Columbia Asia Gia Dinh International Hospital 1 No Trang Long St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3803-0678 FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, Dist.7, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 5411-3500 Stamford Skin Centre 254 Dien Bien Phu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-1090 Email: info@stamfordskin.com www.stamfordskin.com TRAVEL

Asiana Travel Mate 113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-6678 www.atravelmate.com Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 reservation-dalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND3,150,000 ($150) Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515 www.dalatedensee.com

Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn Buffalo Tours operates in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos.

The Buffalo Tours portfolio caters to all types of tours.

Exotissimo 261/26 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3995-9898 www.exotravel.com FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

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DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY, VUNG TAU Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0033 www.renaissance-saigon.com Sofitel Saigon Plaza

21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3930-0840 Satisfying all tastes including European and Asian flavours. Set lunch at VND180,000. A la carte available from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Vatel Saigon Bistronomique-Lounge 120 Bis Suong Nguyet Anh St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 5404-2220 www.vatelsaigon.com BARS & CAFÉS

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555 Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel 18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688 www.windsorplazahotel.com

Caffe Molinari 5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3910-6903 Email: molinari@vnn.vn www.caffemolinari.com Sax N’ Art Jazz Club 28 Le Loi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8472. www.saxnart.com

RESTAURANTS

Beef No.1 Restaurant 1 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0935891818/ 0919898253 Chit Chat Restaurant Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, 242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3839-7777 www.equatorial.com New daily menus for lunch and dinner buffets, all served in a relaxing atmosphere.

Au Lac do Brazil I 238 Pasteur, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3820-7157

SHOPS

Lu's Handmade 240 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Facebook: Lu's Handmade Tropic Shop 89 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3714 www.ofcvn.com/tropic

Mint Culinary School 778/45 Nguyen Kiem St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 38445500. Email: sales@vca.com.vn www.vca.com.vn HERITAGE

Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Mondays and Sundays Galerie Quynh Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3824-8284 www.galeriequynh.com Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Tu Do Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-0966 www.tudogallery.com Opening: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday

COOKING CLASSES

46 • V I E T N A M

Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7962

Doma Vina Co., Ltd 50C Tran Binh Trong St, Ward 5, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3550-0558 www.papercraft.com.vn

IPA Nima 85 Pasteur St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3824-2701 IPA Nima is well-known for its bags.

Tandoor Restaurant 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com

Artists Long & Ngoc Gallery Grand Hotel (at the lobby), 8 Dong Khoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City TeL: (08) 2246-6839 Mobile: 0908 229 708 Email: ngoclongfineart@yahoo.com

Sàn Art 48/7 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6294-7059 www.san-art.org Opening: 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. every.

Closed on Sunday and Monday

Handed by crafts from Vietnam 47 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: 0908 447 282

Mam Son Restaurant 35 Ton That Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3915-3653

GALLERIES

Authentique Home 113 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3822-8052 71/1 Mac Thi Buoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-8811 www.authentiquehome.com

Dong Gia Enterprise 114 Xuan Thuy St, Thao Dien Ward, Dist.2, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 62960147. www.dong-gia.com

Lemongrass Restaurant 4 Nguyen Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0496 www.bongsencorporation.com

Twenty21one restaurant

Elle Cafe 45 Ngo Duc Ke St, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6291-8769

Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com

I FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

SIGHTSEEINGS

Notre Dame Cathedral Cong Xa Paris Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Built in 1877, and the Cathedral opened to the public in 1880. The bricks used to build this marvellous structure were shipped from Marseilles.

Ben Thanh Market Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City The original market was located on the bank of the Ben Nghe River by the old Gia Dinh Fort. In 1859, when the French invaded Saigon and overtook Gia Dinh Fort, Ben Thanh Market was destroyed.

It was rebuilt shortly after and remained standing until it was moved to its present location in 1899. Now, Ben Thanh market is a trade centre and a favourite tourist destination, offering a wide range of Vietnamese handicraft, fresh fruits and local specialities.

Chinatown – Cho Lon It was set up at the end of the 18th century when the Minh Dynasty in China was overthrown. Chinatown has many

shops and private workshops. The most interesting places are Binh Tay market, Soai Kinh Lam fabric whole-sales market, the street of herbal medicine located on Hai Thuong Lan Ong and Thien Hau Temple on Nguyen Trai Street.

MUSEUMS

Ao Dai Museum 206/19/30 Long Thuan St, District 9, Ho Chi Minh City www.baotangaodaivietnam.com Open daily, closed on Monday from 8.30 a.m. until 5.30 p.m.

The entry ticket is VND100,000 for adults Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed Mondays

Fito Museum 41 Hoang Du Khuong S, Ward 12, Dist. 10, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3864-2430 www.fitomuseum.com.vn Open daily from 8.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m.

Ticket: VND50,000 The first museum of traditional Vietnamese medicine Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Southern Women Museum 202 Vo Thi Sau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3932-7130 The History Museum 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-8146 www.baotanglichsuvn.com 8 a.m. - 11.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m.

- 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday.

Closed on Monday War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

VUNG TAU

(TELEPHONE CODE: 064) A popular beach resort town for residents of Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau is about 128 km southeast of HCMC. It can be reached either by road or by a 90-minute hydrofoil boat

DIRECTIONS CON DAO, CAN THO, CHAU DOC, PHU QUOC

from HCMC. Sitting on a peninsula that sticks out into the East Sea, Vung Tau does not have the most beautiful, or cleanest, beaches in Vietnam but can act as a quick getaway from the buzz of the city.

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Grand Hotel Vung Tau 2 Nguyen Du St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-888 www.grandhotel.com.vn Muong Thanh Vung Tau Hotel No 09, Thong Nhat St, Ward 1, Vung Tau. Tel: (064) 3835-567 www.vungtau.muongthanh.vn Kieu Anh Hotel 257 Le Hong Phong St, Ward 8, Vung Tau. Tel: (064) 3584-179 www.kieuanhhotel.vn Palace Hotel 1 Nguyen Trai St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-411 www.palacehotel.com.vn Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau. Tel: (064) 3624-748 www.petrosetcohotel.vn Petro House Hotel

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist., Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province Tel : (064) 3831-222 www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ con-dao/destination

CAN THO

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0710) Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta, about 170 km southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and acts as the area’s economic, transportation and cultural centre. Sitting on the Mekong River, Can Tho is popular for its nearby floating markets, canals and rivers that can be explored by boat.

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Can Tho Resort Cai Khe Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3810-111 www.victoriahotels.asia

PHU QUOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Phu Quoc Island, off the southern tip of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country.

White-sand beaches, scuba diving around coral reefs or exploring the protected jungle. Accessible by either the Rach Gia hydrofoil boat or a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Modest family-owned bungalows on the beach to fivestar resorts.

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Chen Sea Resort & Spa Phu Quoc, Centara Boutique Collection Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3995-895 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

Eden Resort Phu Quoc Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 www.edenresort.com.vn La Veranda Resort

Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 contact@laverandaresorts.com www.laverandaresorts.com MUSEUM Coi Nguon Museum 149 Tran Hung Dao St, Duong dong Town, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3980-206 www.coinguonphuquoc.com

MUSEUM Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St, Tan An Ward, Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3820-955 Open: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.); Saturday and Sunday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.). Closed on Friday. Free admission

CHAU DOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 076) 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel : (064) 3852-014 Hotline: 0961.085.869 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn The Coast Hotel

HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Chau Doc Hotel 1 Le Loi St, Chau Doc Town, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3865-010 resa.chaudoc@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia Victoria Nui Sam Lodge Vinh Dong 1, Nui Sam, Chau Doc, An Giang Province.

Tel: (076) 3575-888 resa.nuisam@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia

300A Phan Chu Trinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau City Tel: (064) 3627-777 Email: info@thecoasthotelvungtau.com www.thecoasthotelvungtau.com MUSEUM

White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau City Tel: (064) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

MUSEUM

An Giang Museum 11 Ton Duc Thang St, My Binh Ward, Long Xuyen City, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3956-248 Open hour 7a.m. to 11a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed on Monday Entrance fee: VND42,000 ($2)

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Palace 1. IIndependence ndependence P alace

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Ms. Thuy Phuong

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STREET GUIDE

3 Thang 2..........A2, A3, B2 Alexandre De Rhodes........ ........................................E2 An Duong Vuong....A4, B4 Ba Le Chan....................D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan...... ........................................C2 Ban Co...........................B3 Ben Chuong Duong........... .................................D4, E4 Ben Van Don...........D4, E4

Bui Thi Xuan..................C3 Bui Vien...................C4, D4 Cach Mang Thang Tam..... ......A1, B1, B2, C2, C3, D3 Calmette.........................E4 Cao Thang.....................B3 Chu Manh Trinh.............F2 Co Bac.....................C4, D4 Co Giang............. ...C4, D4 Cong Quynh............C3, C4 De Tham........................D4

Dien Bien Phu.....................

A3, B2, C2, D1, D2, E1, F1 Dinh Tien Hoang............E1 Do Quang Dau...............C4 Do Thanh.......................B3 Doan Cong Buu.............C1 Doan Nhu Hai..........E4, F4 Dong Du.........................F3 Dong Khoi................E3, F3 Hai Ba Trung....................... ...........................D1, E2, F3 Hai Trieu.........................F4

Ham Nghi.................E4, F4 Han Thuyen....................E2 Ho Hao Hon...................C4 Ho Tung Mau...........E3, E4 Ho Xuan Huong.............C2 Hoa Hung.......................A2 Hung Vuong...................A4 Huyen Tran Cong Chua..... ........................................D3 Huynh Thuc Khang........E3 Huynh Tinh Cua.............D1 Ky Con.....................D4, E4

Ky Dong...................B2, C1 Le Duan...................E2, F2 Le Hong Phong.................. ...........................A2, A3, A4 Le Lai.......................C3, D3 Le Loi..............................E3 Le Quy Don....................D2 Le Thanh Ton...................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Le Thi Hong Gam............... .................................D4, E4 Le Thi Rieng............C3, D3

Le Van Sy.......................B1 Luong Huu Khanh.........C3 Ly Chinh Thang.......C1, C2 Ly Thai To......................A3 Ly Tu Trong......................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Ly Van Phuc...................E1 Mac Dinh Chi...........E1, E2 Mac Thi Buoi..................F3 Mai Thi Luu..............E1, F1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia............ ...................C1, D1, D2, D3

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Ngo Duc Ke....................F3 Ngo Thoi Nhiem ....C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam.................F2 Nguyen Binh Khiem.............. .....................................F1, F2 Nguyen Cau...................D1 Nguyen Cong Tru............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ ......B3, C2, C3, D2, E1, F1 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Hue.............E3, F3

Nguyen Khac Nhu.............. .................................C4, D4 Nam Quoc Cang.....C3, C4 Nguyen Phi Khanh.........E1 Nguyen Sieu...................F3 Nguyen Son Tra................. .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Tat Thanh..........F4 Nguyen Thai Binh............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc....D3, D4 Nguyen Thanh Y............E1

Nguyen Thi Dieu............C2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai........ .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat........... .................................A3, B3 Nguyen Thong........B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien........ .................................B2, C3 Nguyen Trai.............B4, C4 Nguyen Trung Ngan......F2 Nguyen Trung Truc........E3 Nguyen Truong To.........E4

Nguyen Van Cu..............B4 Nguyen Van Thu......E1, F1 Pasteur................................ ...............D1, D2, E2, E3,E4 Pham Ngoc Thach.........D1 Pham Ngu Lao........C4, D4 Pham Viet Chanh...........B3 Phan Ke Binh..........E1, E2 Pho Duc Chinh...............E4 Phung Khac Khoan.......E2 Suong Nguyet Anh........C3 Thach Thi Thanh.....D1, E1

Thai Van Lung................F3 Thi Sach.........................F3 Thu Khoa Huan.......D3, E3 To Hien Thanh................A1 Ton That Dam..........E3, E4 Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Binh Trong......A3, A4 Tran Cao Van.................E2 Tran Dinh Xu...........B4, C4 Tran Hung Dao.......C4, D4 Tran Minh Quyen...........A3 Tran Nhan Tong.......A3, A4

Tran Phu.........................A4 Tran Quang Dieu...........B1 Tran Quang Khai.....D1, E1 Tran Quoc Thao......C1, D2 Tran Quoc Toan......C1, D1 Truong Dinh............C1, C2 Tu Xuong.......................C2 Vinh Vien........................A3 Vo Thi Sau........C2, D1, E1 Vo Van Tan..............C3, B3 Vuon Chuoi..............B2, B3 Yersin..............................D4

WHAT THE PAPER SAY

10 archaeological discoveries and 10 environment incidents

The announcement of archaeological discoveries in 2016 brought joy to those who have been concerned about the country’s history. The discovery of Early Neolithic items in An Khe in the Central Highlands province of Gia Lai proved that humans had settled on the upper part of local Ba River in particular, and inside Vietnam territory in general, some 80,000 years ago. This, together with nine other discoveries in the country, made it a successful year in the archaeological sector.

At the same time, the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment announced 10 remarkable environmental incidents that they had to deal with in the year of 2016. Intentionally, they did not list the environmental disaster caused by the toxic Formosa spill in the ocean in central provinces of Ha Tinh, Quang Binh, Quang Tri and Thua Thien Hue. The toxin has damaged the marine ecosystem, unemployed thousands of local fishermen, sent hundreds of businesses to bankruptcy and affected other economic sectors, and negatively impacted food sources for millions of people around Vietnam.

322 litres of beer consumed during Tet

Online newswire vnexpress on 2 February said that the country consumed a total of 322 million litres of beer during the most Tet holiday. This is an increase of 20 per cent over the same period last year. The consumption of a large quantity of beer

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also reflects a huge waste of money and time and a ruin of mental fitness. Vietnamese drinkers are reportedly bingedrinkers who encourage each other to over-consume alcohol, often leading to alcohol-related illnesses.

The figure does not include consumption of home-made wine and brandy, which are popular in every locality around the country and the consumed quantity is hardly measured. Alcohol consumption among male drinkers during Tet creates bad social consequences. But it also decreases the meaning of Tet, the most important holiday to Vietnamese and exerts more burdens on Vietnamese women, who have to prepare food for the drinking parties and do clean-up work.

4,500 drinkers hospitalized after fighting

Another online newswire, VietnamNet, released on 1 February quotes from the Ministry of Health that 4,500 drinkers were forced to go to hospitals during Tet due to injuries from fighting after drinking parties. Over-consumption of alcohol leads to aggression and impaired judgment, which may result in physical altercations.

Evidence shows a large volume of beer consumption during the rest of the year as well. Hospitalization means lost work time and also a financial burden for families due to the high cost of medical treatment. But moral lessons and lawful penalties seem not to be effective in stopping men from their drinking habit. Observers expect little change in mindset among Vietnamese men, as they consider drinking a large capacity as a way to show their manliness.

Meanwhile, women are fed up with this way of ‘manly expression’ and many show their reluctance in getting married to this kind of man.

Traffic accidents kill 203 people during Tet

Vietnam News Agency’s online news site Vietnam+ on 2 February carried a news piece saying that 203 Vietnamese citizens died and 417 others were injured because

FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017

of traffic accidents. This means at least 203 families had their Tet ruined and other 417 families were busy in hospitals during Tet. There are several causes for fatal accidents in the holiday time and overconsumption of alcohol is the major one. In Vietnam, traffic vehicles are not just a means of transport but they are also used to show off wealth. Young drinkers take this holiday time to speed and demonstrate their ‘magic’ driving skill, resulting in the rise in number of accidents. Meanwhile, older drinkers lose control on their motorbikes and usually drive without consciousness of signalling or even brakes. One more reason for the increase of accidents during Tet is that Vietnamese do not obey traffic laws. During the holiday, of course, they think traffic cops are at home celebrating Tet, so drivers take many more chances.

10km traffic congestion delay workers after Tet

Also on vnexpress: On 3 February, this online newswire released that heavy traffic congestion occurred on the National Highway 1A’s section in central Quang Nam Province. The report said that a row of vehicles was lined up for 10km and each could only move a distance of several footsteps at a time.

The congestion happened on the sixth day of the Lunar New Year and several days before, because workers from northern and central provinces began their trip to HCM City to back to work. The congestion helps prove that an imbalanced economy exists, as the country relies too much on the southern economic hub, which draws a great number of workers from the northern and central regions. Millions of labourers moving from the regions to the South at the beginning of the year and moving back at the end of the year create so much chaos for society because of incomplete traffic infrastructure and low awareness among those workers and service providers. Guest workers also exert more burdens on the southern economic hub while local shortages of labourers for farming and manual work occur in many localities in the regions.

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