CONTENT No 8, VOL.6, OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
RELIGION
8 Enlightened stone RITUAL
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10 Looking after the dead TRAVEL
14 The masters of Phu Quy 18 Visiting the sacred land 24 Hidden Gems - A sleepy beach town to some, Vung Tau is loaded with cultural treasures PEOPLE
26 Guardian of the marsh islet HISTORY
28 All about a boy and a girl in the park FOOD
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30 The sweet smell of nostalgia 32 Cakes of love CRAFTS
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34 The fabric of life 36 38 40 43 54
MUSEUM
Doi Moi (Reform Period) – The journey of dream EVENTS
VALUE FOR MONEY
DIRECTIONS
WHAT THE PAPER SAY
Cover photograph: A moss season, Lien Huong Town, Tuy Phong Dist., Binh Thuan Province Photo: Huynh Cong Nghia Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam
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Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang Managing Editor: Kha Tu Anh; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson; Assistant: Van Thanh Nga, Nguyen Dang Khoa; Designer: Thanh Mai; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Ngo Nguyen Huynh Trung Tin; Nguyen Ba Ngoc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Email: tapchidisanvietnam@gmail.com; Thuy Phuong 0969 47 3579 Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999 Nha Trang Advertising and Subscription: Bach Cat Co. Ltd,; 22/6A Bach Dang Str. Nha Trang City Tel: (58) 360 7070 Fax (58) 387 0099, Email: bachcatprco.ltd@gmail.com Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148
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Vietnam Heritage is published monthly, produced in Vietnam and printed at Army Printing House No 2. © All rights reserved.
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Releasing a boat model, a ritual in the Whale Worship Festival, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province, 2014 Photo: Tran Khanh Hung
Enlightened
RELIGION
stone BY HOANG THAM
Mountain pagoda features the world’s largest Buddha
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ver a thousand stairs lead up to Linh Son Truong Tho, which houses the famous 49m long, 11m high statue of Shakyamuni entering Nirvana. More than 500m above the sea, this statue was recognized as Asia’s biggest statue of Shakyamuni 3m longer than the reclining Buddha in Thailand’s famous Wat Po. Ta Cu slope is cooled by a pristine forest that hosts many rare precious trees such as Siamese rosewood, queen’s flower, makha, jamba ta-khian, jamblon, jambay, and evergreen wisteria interwoven by wild vines such as giloy and dragon blood making a deep, colossal green mass. Here and there, a small creek with crystal clear water crosses the path. An elusive aroma of wild orchids and other wild flowers persists in the air. But most impressive is the fiery red colour of the flowers of the sandbox trees, very popular in the forests of south Truong Son, leafless in the dry season. Birds chirp light-heartedly high up in the canopy. Behind the sheer 45-degree Bang Lang slope, Linh Son Truong Tho stands at 563m above sea level. The average temperature is 18-22oc all year round. According to geologists, this used to be a volcano from the first tectonic period, so the soil contains gold mineral sand and a few other precious stones. Those too lazy to climb the stairs can sit in a cable car and slide 1,600m up to the pagoda while contemplating the grandeur of nature.
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Linh Son Pagoda on Ta Cu Mountain, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Hoang Tham
RELIGION
A view looking from Ta Cu Mountain, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Ngo Dinh Hong
Binh Thuan
Cable car going to Ta Cu Mountain, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Ngo Dinh Hong
A 49-metre statue of Shakyamuni entering Nirvana on Ta Cu Mountain, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Ngo Dinh Hoa
Located in the southernmost part of mid-Vietnam, Linh Son Truong Tho, also known as the Mountain Pagoda, on Ta Cu Peak near National Highway 1A, of Thuan Nam Township, Ham Thuan Nam District, Binh Thuan Province, just 28km south of Phan Thiet, is a national attraction, an alluring destination for adventure and exploration lovers.
Before seeing the great reclining Buddha, visitors have a chance to bow to Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva and a group of the standing ‘Trinity’, with 7m tall Amitabha in the middle, and Avalokitesvara on the left and Manjushri on the right, both 6.5m tall. The view here is panoramic with green masses of mountains and an old pagoda vaguely seen behind the canopy. Built by architect Truong Dinh Y in 1962-1966 with reinforced concrete, the Buddha entering Nirvana statue is the centre of Ta Cu Hill. The artist had succeeded in expressing Buddha’s ultimately peaceful and tranquil state of mind as he entered Nirvana. Linh Son Truong Tho Pagoda has a long history. In the mid-19th century, monk Tran Huu Duc (1812 – 1887) aka prior Thong An, titled Huu Duc, moved from Phu Yen to Binh Thuan and built a grass hermitage in Kim Thanh (now Bau Tram) to practice religion and medicine. In 1872, then a famous medicine man, he moved up the Ta Cu Hill. In the 33rd year of Tu Duc’s reign (1880) the Queen Mother fell seriously ill and the monk sent her his medicine. The Queen recovered, and King Tu Duc named the pagoda ‘Linh Son Truong Tho’
and the monk ‘Super-Reverent.’ After generations of faith keepers, in the 60s of the last century, the pagoda was renovated and the reclining Buddha built. Ta Cu Hill and the surrounding area were still desolated at the time. The path up to the pagoda was precarious on steep slopes with sheer cliffs on its sides. Thousands of tons of concrete and steel were moved up to the place by hand. The finished sculpture highlights the solemnity of Linh Son Truong Tho amidst the grandeur of the nature of Ta Cu. A granite field spreads beneath the statue, and a grove of lush, ageold Ta-khian, queen’s flower and mango trees surrounds it. On the slope next to the Reclining Buddha statue, a banyan tree and a queen’s flower tree, both over 500 years old and about 50m tall stand whispering to each other their secret wisdom. Since 2002 a 250,000m2 area of Ta Cu Hill was transformed into a tourist destination with an over VND65 billion investment. During the holidays, and full moon days, especially on the commemoration of the Founder of the Mountain pagoda (the 5th of the 10th lunar month), visitors come by the thousands. n
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U LOOKING AFTER
THE DEAD BY INRASARA*
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nlike the Hindu Cham, Bani Cham deceased are brought to the Ghur as soon as possible. A person dying in the morning is interred in the afternoon, or the next morning if the death comes in the afternoon. In case of an ‘unkind’ death, which means by accident, or while being pregnant or during childbirth, the body would have to be ‘Ba nau paywa’ (consigned). The burying ground is adjacent to the Ghur, but not inside. Two to three years later, when the flesh has completely disintegrated, the relatives unearth the skeleton and perform an official funeral as for a ‘normal’ death. When a person dies, the clan erects a big tent called Kajang, and the body is washed, and an Acar (priest) is invited to read prayer and shroud it. The shrouded body is then put on an 8-pole bamboo frame, wrapped in two layers of cloths and tied with three ropes. The Imum of the clan leads a group of 6-12 priests, depending on the age of the deceased, and 8 others who carry the frame to the grave. They stop halfway to perform a head-turning ritual and continue their way. Near the Ghur, they stop for four Acar to mount and sit on the frame to say a farewell prayer for the dead person’s soul.
RITUAL
A Ghur is a community cemetery in a Bani Cham village. Cham people don’t use coffins for burials. The deceased is put into the grave, head pointing north, and body turned sideways facing west. The grave is not heaped up as high as those of the Viet, and has two stones at the head and the feet. After the rituals at the Ghur, on the way home, no one should look back at the grave because the Cham believe the dead would recognize them and come back to disturb them. Then the official funeral begins. It consists of three rituals: Rop War (Initiation) on the first day, Tak Kabaw Yuw (Buffalo sacrificing) on the second, and Pok Naung (Farwell) on the last day. On Rop War day they simply consecrate a chicken and rice. Priests pray in the Kajang and the family treats visitors with food. Tak Kabaw Yuw is the most important day. The hosts buy a buffalo for the priest to perform the sacrificial ritual and to treat the clan and visitors. That night, almost everybody stays awake to discuss the next ritual and to keep the funeral company. Finally, on Pok Naung, they make a
farewell to the deceased. The ritual takes place in the morning. The relatives bring a lot of offerings in trays and arrange in front of the Kajang. A priest reads prayers. The relatives take turn to come inside the Kajang to kowtow. The clan member who knows the Koran best recites some verses to Allah to ask for the soul of the deceased to get to nirvana. Finally clan members take offerings in straw baskets out of the Kajang and stand in two lines. The Imum leads the priests and relatives in a procession, carrying the offerings, to a crossroad, where they stop for the priests to pray and perform the funeral ending ritual. Two days after the main funeral, the family of the deceased goes to a river and gets two stones and ask an Acar for blessing to put on the new grave. Like those of the Hindu Cham, the Bani Cham graves don’t have a name plate. The two stone indicate that a Bani Cham person has ‘come home’ forever. At the beginning off every Ramadan, the month of fasting, an Acar comes to the Ghur
with the clan to visit the graves and Ninh perform Thuan consecration rituals. Binh After that they Thuan perform many other rituals at home for the whole month. A Bani Cham cemetery is just about half a kilometre from the village, far from the noise of human activities but still accessible. Along the shores off Ninh Thuan and Binh Thuan provinces there are a few Ghur over 200 years old. For social reasons, the Cham have left the sea to live on the plains. They have established new Ghur to bury the dead. But unlike the Hindu Cham, the Bani Cham still visit the old Ghur every Ramadan, although these are no longer used for new burials. They say, first one should visit the ‘far Ghur’ then visit the ‘near Ghur’. n *The author is a poet and Cham cultural researcher
Photos: A funeral of Cham Bani taken by Ngo Quang Phuc in Phan Ri, Binh Thuan Province, 2013
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BAMBOO VILLAGE
BEACH RESORT & SPA
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BAMBOO VILLAGE BEACH RESORT & SPA Address: 38 Nguyen DinhChieu, Ham Tien, PhanThiet, BinhThuan, Vietnam T: +84 62 3847 007 E: info@bamboovillageresortvn.com W: www.bamboovillageresortvn.com
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ounded in 1998, Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa grew alongside the development of tourism in BinhThuan and was voted the top 4-star resort in Mui Ne in 2016. For the past 18 years, Bamboo Village has become a popular vacation destination of nearly 1 million visitors from 71 countries around the world, and a trusted partner of more than 100 travel agencies, tourist companies domestically and internationally. More than 3000 guests have returned at least twice, many guests over 10 times and one special guest over 25 times. Having won the love and trust of travelers from around the world, this is home of the blissful bamboo villagers. Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa incorporates 147 authentic Vietnamese rooms, bungalows and suites with elegant interior and exterior design constructed with local, environmentally-friendly materials, wallowing in green, tropical gardens filled with bamboo trees and tropical plants. The white sandy beaches lie in harmony with the blue ocean and stretch into the coconut palms where cabanas and two sunlit swimming pools lie beneath their shadow. This is the venue for the superb Strawy Restaurant, acclaimed by diners who enjoy meals seasoned by oceanic and local flavors,
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from hearty breakfast buffet to late evening snacks and dinners of delicious Vietnamese food accompanied by live musical entertainment. Among the most memorable dishes to guests is “lautha” hotpot made from a variety of specialty fish only found in the PhanThiet – Binh Thuan area. The Escape Bar offers splendid view of the lagoon and a calming place to enjoy a cocktail. The Water Lily Spa offers treatments from Switzerland, Bali and Vietnam using the best of beauty and healthcare products and the skilled and friendly masseuses are trained to professional international standards. Yoga classes are offered daily in a yoga studio overlooking the peaceful Zen garden. The special feature of this resort is the friendliness, helpfulness and good humor of the staff. With continuous effort toward excellence and green environment, Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa has won many prestigious awards, including The Guide’s Green Lotus award since 1998,Top 10 FourStar Hotels in Vietnam since 2010, TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence since 2011, among many other awards. 2016 marks Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa’s 18th Year Anniversary.
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PHU QUY ISLAND TRAVEL
The masters of
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Phu Quy BY VAN BAN
Three cultures have left their mark on this heritage site, and the world is richer for it
hu Quy is an island district of Binh Thuan Province, a habitat of prehistoric people that has wells, graves, shrines and pagodas, with traces of Sa Huynh, Cham, Vietnamese and Chinese civilizations intertwined. It also has beautiful sceneries, peaceful beaches and fearsome rock faces. Phu Quy District consists of 10 islands with total area of 17.82km2, 56 nautical miles to the east-southeast from Phan Thiet. The population is about 27,500, concentrated on 16.5 km2 Phu Quy, the biggest island of the 10. The only way to come to Phu Quy is by boat from Phan Thiet harbour. It takes a
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high-speed vessel about 3 hours to reach the island. Having found intact stone tools on Phu Quy Island, Vietnamese archaeologists have confirmed that Sa Huynh civilization did spread to this island in the middle of the sea 3000 years ago. Sa Huynh, one of the oldest and most prosperous civilizations of Vietnam, existed from 1,000 BC to the 2nd century AD. Four graves and Five wells dated from 13th century, almost intact, and folk legends led the culturologists to conclude that the next masters of Phu Quy were the Cham of Champa Kingdom, which ruled the Southern part of Mid-Vietnam from 192 to 1832.
BINH THUAN
The customs, rituals and other ancient religious edifices such as temples, pagodas etc., which were undamaged but weathered by time are proofs that later on, the Viet and Chinese people came here, mingled in harmony with the Cham, creating a cultural mixture unique to Phu Quy. According to the district People’s Committee, Phu Quy has over 30 vestige sites, most notably the Princess Ban Tranh (daughter of a Champa King) shrine, built in the late 15th Century, Master Sai Nai (a Chinese) Temple, built in late 17th century, Linh Son Pagoda, built on a 80m height in 1747, and Thanh Lam Pagoda, built in late 18th century.
Phu Quy Island from the air, Binh Thuan Province, 2013 Photo: Vu Ngoc Hoang
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PHU QUY ISLAND TRAVEL
Linh Quang Pagoda on Phu Quy Island, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Do Huu Tuan
A Buddha statue on top of Cao Cat Mountain, Phu Quy Island, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Do Huu Tien
The most special relic on Phu Quy is Linh Quang Pagoda, one of the oldest pagodas of Binh Thuan Province, built in 1747. Sitting on a solemn hill of My Khe Village, Tam Thanh Commune, Linh Quang Pagoda was recognized by the government as a National Cultural Heritage in 1996. It contains many antique items such as Buddha statues, drums, bells, and most notably, many royal decrees of conferment. The second relic frequently mentioned by tourist-explorers is the An Thanh Temple, recognized by the government as a National Cultural Heritage in 1996. Built in 1781 on a white sand beach of Trieu Duong village, Tam Thanh Commune to worship the whales, it houses nearly 100 skeletons of whales and leatherback sea turtles. Adhering to Viet traditional architecture, the temple’s structures include the main edifice, ancestral shrine,
Phu Quy Island, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Do Huu Tien
and martial spirit shrine. Most visitors praise and locals are proud of the beautiful sceneries of the district such as Cave Fall Beach, the Master’s Grave, Tranh Island, and Bird (Hai) Island. But what I love best is to stand on the slopes or top of the hills and contemplate the tiny colourful human existence amongst the vastness of the sky and the sea. Perhaps the best place to see and feel it all is the 85m high top of Cao Cat Hill. From this hilltop, one can see also old shrines and temples, now appearing, now hiding behind the canopy and dense dwelling structures of populated areas. The hill is by itself an attractive site to see with spiraling stairs, and rocky promontories and caverns. At the height of 80m is the time-weathered Linh Son Pagoda, and an impressive statue of Avalokitesvara stands majestically on the
hilltop. These elements combine so organically, as if to demonstrate the sacredness of the wild nature. After a reenergizing hike around you may want to cool down on the wide beach with fine white sand of Trieu Duong bay beside a singing poplar grove. Adventure lovers won’t miss a chance to explore the other islands around Phu Quy. The most interesting one is Hon Tranh, the second biggest island of the district, which is just 0.6km2 and a 15 minute boat ride from Phu Quy. It’s also a habitat for chameleons, sea snakes, rock lizards, flat crabs and egrets. Rocky promontories and white sand beaches line the island. There is a shrine for a hero who saved King Nguyen Anh. The people on Hon Tranh are all marine soldiers ready to share their stories about the sea and to help those in need. n
Every day there are two round boat trips between Phan Thiet and Phu Quy. The departure time depends on the weather so make sure to ask the harbor services at (062) 3506-358 (Phan Thiet) and (062) 3506-374 (Phu Quy) before going. On Phu Quy, there are inns and home-stays for rent at about VND200,000VND250,000/double room/night, such as Hoang Phu Inn, 500m from the harbour, tel: (062) 3709-550; Truong Huy inn, Vo Van Kiet St, My Khe Village, Tam Thanh Commune, tel: (062) 3769-333. Most of them have motorcycles for hire at VND100,000/day. There are also many restaurants for visitors to choose. OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
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TRAVEL
A Quest Befitting
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BINH THUAN
Don Quixote BY DANG KHOA
Two travellers conquer an old lighthouse on a desolate island
ith an area of just 7 ha and only 500m from shore, Ke Ga, a beautiful rocky island in Thuan Qui Commune, Ham Thuan Nam District of Binh Thuan Province is quite famous because it has a lighthouse that many think is the tallest and oldest in South-East Asia. Recently, many tourist companies came up with attractive ideas by combining the lighthouse tour with extreme games such as raft rowing, rope skidding, and asphalt-coated bamboo basket rowing from the shore out to the island. From Ho Chi Minh City, I and a friend who didn’t like taking tours decided to go to East bus terminal to take a bus to Phan Thiet. In this tourist town, we easily got a motorbike for VND150,000/day and hit the road to Ke Ga. Just 30km from Phan Thiet, we saw the lighthouse, which looked like Don Quixote’s lone proud pike. On the shore opposite Ke Ga, in the shade of densely planted coconut trees, we saw a lot of restaurants and inns that offer boat transportation to the island. Seeing new strangers, a boat owner immediately offered, ‘Please take my boat. It’s just VND50,000 for a round trip.’ About 10 minutes later, we were on Ke Ga Island. It’s made of rocks of different sizes and shapes. Thick flocks of swallows float in the sky like huge kites. Today, the island today is barely covered by rare dry bushes, but
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historical records say that Ke Ga had a small creek running through a dense forest, rich with pheasants. Two rows of age-old big rough-barked plumeria trees line the path to the lighthouse. ‘Each row has 20 trees, planted by the French over 100 years ago. They blossom garishly from Jan to April, and that is a sight to see’, the lighthouse keeper told us. The tower base is an octagon; each side wall is 3m long and 1.6m thick, built with thousands of large granite rocks, laboriously cut. I felt like an ant standing next to an elephant. According to the Southern Maritime Safety Company, which takes care of Ke Ga lighthouse, its height is 41m from the base. Pointing to a little shrine blurred in incense smoke, the lighthouse keeper said, ‘It’s for the 90 souls who died while building this lighthouse.’ He added, about 40 years after having colonized Vietnam, seeing that many ships and junks sank in the area around Ke Ga, the French decided to build this lighthouse. Designed by architect Chnavat, the lighthouse construction began in February 1897 and finished in late 1898. Inside, 184 spiraling stairs, worn flat by human feet, lit by numerous windows on the side walls, led to the top of the tower. Just half way I sweated profusely, my heart pounding in my ears. At the top, I was surprised to see for the first time a light bulb nearly 1m in diameter. It uses solar power, can turn 360 degrees and can be seen from 22 miles away.
Ke Ga Lighthouse, Binh Thuan Province, 2014 Photo: Pham Trung Kien
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The Gift Of Nature
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Walking on the balcony around the light bulb, called the ‘eye of the sea’, I felt dizzy at the depths below, and the infinite blue misty mass of the sea and the sky. Beneath me, wave after wave lathered the rocks around the island. The houses of the fishing village Ke Ga gleamed behind the dock full of fishing boats and lush dragon fruit gardens. As we returned to earth, we entered a two-storey house with almost meter-thick walls, built by the French for the lighthouse keepers, and listened as its current masters shared their stories about the happiness and sorrows of living on the island, protecting the ‘eye of the sea.’ n
From the East bus terminal there are many buses go the Phan Thiet route with ticket prices ranging from VND12,000 – VND150,000. In Phan Thiet, from 5.30 a.m. to 6 p.m, every 30 minutes bus no. 6 takes passengers to Ke Ga village. Along the shore opposite of Ke Ga Island there are tens of resorts with room rates ranging from VND800,000 to VND1,000,000/double room/night.
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Visiting
TRAVEL
the sacred land BY DANG KHOA
BINH THUAN
Within just three km2, there are two national cultural relics, a famous beach with pebbles of seven different colours, and a temple for those who perished in a bloodcurdling massacre 60 years ago. A day scouring on foot the tiny piece of land packed with heritage in Binh Thanh Commune, Tuy Phong District, Binh Thuan Province seemed as long as years.
Seven-coloured beach Leaving the inn early in the morning, we came to a shop that sold the typical cang cake of Tuy Phong. The shop keeper was filling and changing the red hot cake moulds in the oven at dizzying speed. The shop was so crowded that we had to leave, missing a chance to enjoy a mouth wetting, VND20,000 local breakfast. A few hundred steps further, we came to the beach, thick with shops that sold food and beverages, all crowded with tourists in a good mood. Behind the beach, the famous seven-coloured pebble field looked like a levee built with pebbles. The ‘levee’ was over one kilometre long. Scientists say that this 250,000 m3 pebble field was formed by an irregular sea current that pushed the pebbles here from the bottom of the ocean. The waves continuously lapped on the levee and then receded. Over thousands of years, this made them sleek and shiny under the sun. Unable to resist the temptation, we removed our shoes to walk on those gems. The touch, the sounds and the air made the foot massage feel magical.
The green moss season in February to March, in Co Thach, Binh Thuan Province Photo: Nguyen Bao Son
At Ho Chi Minh City’s East terminal, every day there are about 10 buses going to Lien Huong Township, ticket prices ranging from VND120,000-VND130,000. From Lien Huong, one can take a taxi or a motorbike taxi to Co Thach, just seven kilometres away. At Co Thach, there are many low budget rooms for rent, prices ranging from VND100,000 – VND120,000/night. 18 •
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After the seven-coloured pebble field, we came to a rugged rock formation which was green as if painted. I have been told that this phenomenon happens only during the months of February-March, attracting a lot of photographers.
Pagoda in a cave About 500 metres from the seven-coloured field, we came to Co Thach Pagoda, the most sacred pagoda of Binh Thuan Province and a national cultural heritage site. This is actually a complex of an old and a new pagoda besides the one in a cave, with many Buddha statues standing on big rocks scatted around the five ha premises of rugged terrain edging the sea. It took quite a lot of sweat to see everything in Co Thach. We had to not only go up and down the rocks, but also worm ourselves through rock slits and creep into pitch dark caves. The oldest building here is a small pagoda built 150 years ago under the shade of age-old trees, surrounded by enormous rocks stacking on one another. The space between these rocks form caverns, each houses a Buddha statue and is always incensed. The locals call such caverns ‘Cave pagodas’, and there were many of them on this hill. The website of Vietnam Buddhist Church describes the founding of this first ‘cave pagoda’ as follows: ‘In the mid-19th century, Zen priest Bao Tang chose a rock cave at Co Thach to be his place of meditation. Admiring the monk’s spiritual achievements, Mr Ho Cong Diem built for him a spacious pagoda and named it Co Thach. Since then, Co Thach pagoda has gone through four generations of venerable head priests and multiple renovations...’
The 300-year-old communal house That noon, after a modest VND25,000 lunch, we took a one kilometre walk to Binh An Village’s communal house, recognized by the government as a ‘national heritage of artistic architecture’. The house has the blue sea at the front, the fishing village at its back, a dock with hundreds of anchored fishing boats on the right and a white sand beach on the left. The main structure of the house is a group of three interconnected, mostly wooden buildings, which are the Main Sanctuary, the Middle House, and the Kowtow Hall, having an area of 300m2 in total. Culturologists say that this house is a “nice mixture of palace and folklore architecture”, which is used to worship deities and national heroes. All pillars, beams, purlins and walls of these buildings are meticulously cut, carved and polished. The portal of the Main Sanctuary bears intricate relieves of the sacred animals: a dragon, a unicorn, a tortoise and a phoenix; a conifer and a reindeer representing long-lasting fortune; apricot blossom representing wealth; and cranes as symbols of longevity. Inside the house of Binh An, there are tens of altars of different sizes, all beautifully carved, and precious antique utensils such as bells, thuribles, weapons, drums, wooden bells, a great bell, and silk conferment letters of the Nguyen Kings. The whole 1,500m² premises is fortified by a strong one metre thick and 2.5 metres high wall. The main gate is three metres high, 2 metres wide beneath a gate sign that reads ‘Gate to the marvel’. It is adorned with ‘two dragons competing for a gem’ statues; Lord Silk Fiber holding the Sun and Lunar Lady holding the Moon statues representing the harmony of Ying and Yang...
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TRAVEL The story of a horrific massacre That afternoon, when the blaze of the land called a ‘little sand desert’ was subdued, we took a 2.5 kilometre walk from the communal house and came to the memorial of the massacre that shook the world 60 years ago. The inscription at the memorial read, ‘Morning, February 20, 1951 (a full moon day of first lunar month), a French regiment marched into Cat Bay Village and opened fire, killing 311 villagers, burning hundreds of houses and raping many women.’ After burning incense and praying for the hundreds of innocent souls, we entered Cat Bay, a poor and peaceful village beside the memorial. Some people here still remember the tragic scenes and events that took place ‘That morning my family was having cassava for breakfast. Suddenly, we saw a lot of legionaries surrounding the village. A group of soldiers came to our house and A cave pagoda in Co Thach, Binh Thuan Province shouted, “Everyone out!” 12 members of our famPhoto: Dang Khoa ily held each other inside, trembling from fear. They immediately opened machine gun fire and burned the house. I was 16 at the time, and was holding a little brother behind a bag of rice, and that’s why we survived,’ recalled an 80-year-old man named Thoi. n
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ADVERTORIAL
Sunset to sunrise
on Binh Thuan Sandunes
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BY PIP DE ROUVRAY
hilst I could not claim Binh Thuan Province as a home away from home, I certainly have had a strong attachment to it for the past sixteen years. Firstly, my sister-in-law has a farm there. She grows dragon fruit, which could be a symbol of Binh Thuan. As a family, we often spend time there and I go fishing in a small lake with my brother-in-law. I would highly recommend a home-stay break in Binh Thuan. It will give far more local insight than just meeting paid-to-smile staff at a hotel and the people here are the salt of the earth. Also, I often go to Mui Ne to report for this magazine. Let me give you an overview of what this area has to offer while recommending the hotel I stayed at on my last two visits. That stretch of beach before Mui Ne fishing village has come a long way since I first visited in 2000. There was but a single hotel in those days. Now it is synonymous with a Vietnamese beach holiday. Yet the artisanal picturesque fishing fleet is still seen out on the bay and people still tend their land. Tourism has diversified the economy; not dominated it. If you want a more secluded beach, the beaches south of Phan Thiet offer a wild romantic coast and there is plenty of excellent accommodation these days. You can visit Ke Ga headland with its lighthouse. Also, do not forget that the city itself has a public beach, the pine tree park in front of which has recently been upgraded.
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Sculptor Marrissels Heessels at work Photo: Do Huu Tuan
But for some, relaxing on a beach or lazing by a pool can get boring. Never fear; this province has plenty of interesting excursions and places to visit. The area around Phan Thiet was the last part of the Indianised Kingdom of Champa to retain its independence. To get a taste of its history, visit the Po Shanu Towers, which have a romantic legend attached to them. You may be lucky enough to witness a Cham festival here. Failing that, your hotel should be able to arrange a visit to a Cham village. Cham culture is still alive and the people still speak their own language and use their own writing system. I myself have visited a Cham weaving centre and enjoyed Cham live music and dancing there. For Buddhism, a jungle experience and spectacular views across the countryside and out to the coast take the cable car at Ta Cu mountain. On top is a temple complex with what was, until recent years, Vietnam's biggest reclining Buddha. I would advise walking one way by a jungle path. There are resting places along the way, although it should take you little more than an hour. There are good restaurants both at the top and at the bottom. For the more adventurous, try the Phu Quy Islands. These are famed for their historical cultural relics, beaches, untouched landscapes and succulent seafood. I bring you news of a forthcoming permanent attraction in
Mui Ne. ‘The Forgotten Land, Sand Sculpture Park’ is due to open in Phan Thiet on 29 January 2016. This will be themed around legends of both Vietnamese and Western culture. Sculptors Enguerrand David and Leonardo Ugolini praised the fineness of the Mui Ne sands and their variation in colours. Most famous of all are the Sand Dunes. The red ones are near Mui Ne and I have stayed at the Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa. The white ones are around ten kilometres further down the road. On my recent trip, I was advised by the receptionist to visit the red dunes at dusk. As I climbed up the dunes, a farmer was driving his cows back home. It is popular for both locals and visitors to come out here at sunset. Children were having fun sliding down the dunes on mats. There was a great view of both Mui Ne and the smaller Hon Rom bays with the little island of Hon Lao just off the headland that separates them.
This trip, I stayed at the Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa. The gardens had grown since I last stayed here, attracting bird life such as a rufous breasted long black-tailed drongo. On the private beach, the sandpipers were still there, darting in and out of the waves breaking to shore. In the gardens, I enjoyed a long relaxing bath in the three-tiered swimming pool. Last time, I was in a villa. This time, I had an elegant room on the third floor of the main block. This is because it provided a coin of vantage for viewing day break. Once again, the sun hid behind a cloud. Had it been free, I know it would have shone a golden road over the waves for half an hour. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the tangerine skyline and the sea shimmered in the half-light like a satin mantle. It set me up for an excellent buffet breakfast provided at the hotel's airy Parakites Restaurant. As I have said, there is more to Binh Thuan Province than beaches. The authorities of this province have had the vision to keep the resorts mainly low-rise and help to promote local initiatives providing ‘Forgotten Land’, with a disused stadium for its exhibition. I hope you will be able to sample some of the charms of the place as I have over the years. The Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa is a great place to base due to its facilities, its oneness with nature and proximity to the dunes. Forgotten Land - sand sculpture park is at National Sport Training Centre Branch no 2 Nguyen Thong Street, Hai Phu ward Phan Thiet City, www.sandart.com. n Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa Quarter 5, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3748-787 www.sandunesbeach.com
Photos: Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa
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VUNG TAU TRAVEL
Hidden Gems
A sleepy beach town to some, Vung Tau is loaded with cultural treasures Ba RiaVung Tau
The Round House
Ba Ria-Vung Tau has preserved quite a number of dwellings featuring traditional architecture, which are 70 to 100 years old. After being colonised by the French, the Oriental and Occidental cultural elements have merged in a delicate and unique way, most clearly visible in the residential architecture. These historical monuments mark stages of continuous development of Ba Ria. The Round House of Ba Ria is a famous, iconic historical monument of this town. Casting silhouettes on the blue sky, this water tower was once the tallest structure in town.
Statue of Jesus Christ
Looking from the sea at the Little Mount, one can’t help being overwhelmed by the imposing religious edifice on its top: the Statue of Jesus Christ. The road to the top of Tao Phung to contemplate this grandiose work of art is challenging, but also very appealing to most of tourists who visit Vung Tau. The mount is surrounded by peaceful natural greenery. Up a few dozen steps are the praying hall and a souvenir shop run by the monastery of the Congregation of the Holy Cross Lovers, with small statues of saints and colourful handicraft items. Along the 800 stairs leading to the Lord’s statue there are many sculptures depicting episodes from the Bible. Plumeria flowers evenly lining the stairs from the bottom to the top seem to purify visitors’ soul before coming to contemplate the vision of the Lord. From this height, one can see the Nghinh Phong (Facing the Wind) cape, bright in the sun and wind of Vung Tau Sea. The hilltop where the Christ’s statue stands is 136 m from the sea level. The statue is 31m tall, his arm span is 18.4 m wide. The statue is standing on top of a square house. This statue of the Lord Christ is an art work of engineer Nguyen Quang Duc (concrete engineering) and artist Van Nhan (artistic aspects).
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Statue of Jesus Christ
Around the statue there are 3 cannon, the remainder of the 11 great cannons of the old Vung Tau defence formation, built by the French at the end of 19th century. Visiting Christ’s statue, one can go inside the monument and climb 133 spiral stairs that lead to his arm. From the Lord’s arm, your eyes can capture heaven and earth, land and water, sun and wind of this country. This is the best place to view trading routs at sea with many ships and junks criss-crossing and the panorama of the rich and beautiful city of Vung Tau. Day after day, at the Vung Tau trading port, ships and junks go in and out in great numbers, full of fish, cargo and tourists, showing hectic rhythm of life of a sea port.
Bach Dinh (The White Palace)
Built in 1898 at 27m above sea level on Big Hill in Vung Tau, The White Palace is the name of the summer hideaway of the Governor General of Indo-China. Today it is a national historical heritage site. Hidden in a small grove, the 3-storey, 19m tall building, once used by the French to confine the patriotic King Thanh Thai, later became a holiday retreat of King Bao Dai and presidents of the Republic of Vietnam. Today, the White Palace remains almost intact and holds many precious antiques such as the Royal Sofa set, a pair of 170cm long African elephant tusks, a set of Happiness – Fortune – Longevity statues in 5 generation enamel, and eight half-length sculptures in ancient Greek style. It is now used as a museum exhibiting archaeological finds, antique ceramics and cannons.
Photo: Pham Thi Ai Nghia
VUNG TAU TRAVEL
Clockwise from top left: Bach Dinh (The White Palace); Long Son Big House; The Grave of Ba Ria (Lady Ria); The Round House
Long Son Big House
Long Son Big House is an architectural complex consisting of a temple, an auditorium, a school, a museum and a cemetery, all built on a 2ha area at the foot of Bamboo Hill in Long Son Commune, Vung Tau City. This is a National historical and cultural heritage site. The Big House was built by Mr Le Van Muu from 1910 to 1929. Mr Muu was normally seen bare-chested and bare footed, working all day, his long hair bunned behind his head, hence the nickname Sir Tran (‘tran’ means bare-chested.) Besides building the Big House, Sir Tran collected many kinds of furniture such as altars, table sets, and lacquered boards of wisdom from all over Vietnam. While building the Big House, Sir Tran instructed the locals to live simply, honestly, observing high moral values. After his death in 1935, his descendants began to worship him in the Big House, which since then is also called Sir Tran Temple. Well preserved through the ups and downs of history, Sir Tran Temple and the antiques he collected attract a lot of tourists especially on the Double Nine day (the 9th of the ninth lunar month) and Sir Tran’s death anniversary (the 20th of the second lunar month.)
The Grave of Ba Ria (Lady Ria)
An old laterite grave in Tam Phuoc Commune, Long Dien District, the resting place of Lady Nguyen Thi Ria, the pioneer who broke fresh ground of the vast area of mountains and forests of Ba Ria–Vung Tau Province today. After her death, all of her lands were given to the poor. The grave was very modest at first. In 1902 L’Ecole
Française d’Extrême-Orient of Indo-China rebuilt her grave with laterite, adding a stele which read ‘Revered Lady Nguyen Thi Ria’. In 2010, Long Dien District People’s Committee built a shrine beside Lady Ria’s grave. Every year on the 4th day of the 4th lunar month, the district commemorates her deeds and legacy to educate younger generations.
Vung Tau Lighthouse
Vietnam’s first lighthouse, built in 1870 at 170m above sea level on Little Hill. In 1913, the lighthouse was rebuilt on the same spot, retaining its original design. Today, the 18m tall lighthouse is still working, and is very important for sea traffic. Although the bulb is only 500W, its light can be seen from 55km away due to enormous prisms. A two-storey French style house built for the lighthouse keepers crouches beside the tower, creating a small but perfect and famous architectural adornment for the Little Hill’s landscape. n OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
Vung Tau Lighthouse
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PEOPLE
Guardian
of the marsh islet
One man’s quest to feed his family led him to help preserve an island
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BY HUE PHONG
n 1988, Nguyen Ngoc Dap brought his wife to live in a marsh islet in central Thua Thien Hue Province. Almost 30 years later, the couple continues to be the only residents on the holy, quiet islet. Set aside from Dap’s home village of Thuan Hoa in Huong Tra District, the Ru Cha marsh islet is a ‘silent zone’ with a condensed population of mangrove species cha (Excoecaria agallocha). An old temple of hau dong grew amidst the cha trees has also made the islet a sacred place to some extent. Originally, the islet was the most emerging zone of a mangrove forest in Tam Giang Lagoon, which was around 30ha before people cut down the trees and reclaimed the land for cultivation in 1980s. Life at that time was so hard that residents of the village struggled to find enough food for daily meals, so Dap decided to move to the islet for its bracket water fish source, leaving 10 of his children in the village. He thought he could manage to feed the kids, as life in the islet was simpler than in the village. No one competed with him in striking for food in the silent islet, which has not been connected to the national power grid till now. The decision fixed Dap’s and his wife’s life to the islet and made him a devoted guard of the mangrove islet. ‘My presence on this islet deters loggers coming to cut down the trees for burning wood, Dap said. ‘And that has accidentally helped preserve
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Left: Portrait of the Ru Cha guard man, Nguyen Ngoc Dap. Right: His wife and son help out. Photos: Nguyen Van Loi
the population for almost 30 years.’ The total area of cha trees right at the time Dap settled down on the islet was almost three hectares and now it has grown up to five hectares. The trees are all green and grow well, making the islet a cool destination. Last year, local authorities of the province recognized Dap’s attempts and assigned him to be the official guard of the islet. They pay him 50 dollars a year for watching out for the trees. The amount is humble, but Dap feels contented with it as it shows the recognition for his attempts. Moreover, he does not want to ask for more because the islet gave him food to feed his 10 children, who are all grown up and get married now. At 71, Dap and his wife do not have any plans to come back home. ‘I am familiar with this life,’ he said, and his wife showed total agreement with him. Today, Ru Cha is a hot destination for couples and photographers. Leaves on cha trees are green during summer and turn red and yellow in autumn. Visitors come to enjoy cool breeze and shade in the summer and to capture the face of autumn. In the middle of the islet, local authorities constructed a fivemetre tall tower that provides a good view of the islet. They also wanted to make the islet an eco-destination for tour programmes in Hue. Visitors can eat brackish water fish and shrimp and poultry served by Dap if they make an advance reservation. n
S
Living
History
tretching over 200m on the bank of the mesmerizing Perfume River, La Residence has a perfect, peaceful location within walking distance of both the Citadel’s Ancient Forbidden City and the City centre. The hotel building itself has a history in keeping with the enchanting city in which it sits. The hotel was constructed in the 1930s in the stunning streamline Art Deco style of the time, and was then the official residence of the French governor in central Vietnam until 1954, a bustling Command Centre for the Americans in the 1960s and a hospital that nursed North Vietnamese soldiers during the Tet Offensive of 1968. The grand opening of La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa in 2005, in keeping with the original Art Deco design, has created one unique hotel complex that combines sensitively designed annexes to extend the original mansion to 122 luxury guestrooms and suites, with the serene grounds and atmosphere unique to Vietnam, one that evokes a certain dreamy nostalgia. The extraordinary restored rooms have a unique set-up and décor, which reflect the influence of the French architects and designers between 1910-1954, such as Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann and Pierre Chareau, or the stunning Chambre Rouge in the movie La Chambre Rouge (The Red Room) of Jean Pierre Berckmans in 1973. Walking along the hotel’s corridors of bowed façade, long horizontal lines and nautical porthole windows, you may hear whispered the tales of a bygone era. Making its own history, the stunning renovated and redesigned La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa has not only a fascinating history utterly unique in the city it inhabits, but also has hosted historic figures or iconic poets and authors. The familiar names of the political world are King Bhumipol of Thailand, H.E. Majesty The Queen of Denmark Margarethe II, H.E Mr. Norodom Sihamoni - King of Cambodia, Mr. Philipp Roesler - CEO of the
World Economic Forum and former Vice - Chancellor of Germany; or famous American actor & Mr. Danny Devito, Irish actor – Mr. Colin Farrell, Mexican Film Director, Producer, Screenwriter – Mr. Alejandro Gonzalez Iñárritu, and many more. La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa, a luxury boutique hotel in the collection of MGallery by Sofitel, is a dedication to lovers of life, literature and culture. Be a part of luxury and share a passion for food with the talented Chef at Le Parfum Restaurant; one can delight in a fine dining fusion menu of Vietnam’s very best and vibrant produce & spices combined with top-quality imported products. High ceilings, hardwood and terrazzo floors, and striking balconies are complemented by opulent, old world touches and paintings by colonial era French and Vietnamese artists – and when sipping Ricard in the Le Gouverneur lobby bar, keep an eye up for the stunning curving mural depicting rural scenes from colonial-era life by French artist Roland Renaud. With the top-notch service and product that the Hotel offers, La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa drew global attention with various prestigious prizes and awards from Condé Nast Traveller’s Readers Choice Awards 2014 & 2015, T+L Top 500 World Best Hotels 2014 & 2015, winner of World Luxury Hotel Awards 2013 & 2016; and many more. Be a part of history and get ready to write your own at La Residence Hue, a one-of-a-kind masterpiece with luxurious cultural and culinary offerings. La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa is where you uncover the past and savour the present. We invite you to become part of the story. n LA RESIDENCE HUE HOTEL & SPA - MGALLERY BY SOFITEL 5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3837-475 www.la-residence-hue.com
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HISTORY
All about a boy and a girl in the park
The statues of Quach Thi Trang (left) and Tran Van On (right) at the Bach Tung Diep Park, Ly Tu Trong St, Dist.1, HCMC Photos: Tu Anh
BY PIP DE ROUVRAY
Neglect mars the legacy of two Vietnamese heroes THE PROLOGUE
She used to hang out on that circle of the roundabout between the Ben Thanh Market and the downtown bus station in Ho Chi Minh City. She must have got bored and lonely, for now she shares company, a quarter of a mile away, with a bronze, studious young man who is a permanent fixture in that little park opposite the Municipal Museum on Ly Tu Trong Street. You can see them there any day of the week. Just who they are only the locals - and not many of them these days would know. Let me tell you readers of English of their sad and noble stories and why you will see them there. This is no star-crossed romantic couple, although their ages; the girl fifteen and the boy nineteen closely fit Romeo and Juliet. Romance was not theirs, but only tragedy, not intertwined but separate. They will remain forever young. You may have guessed by now I am talking about two statues raised in memoriam of teenage Vietnamese martyrs.
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THE MAIDEN'S TALE
The girl's name was Quach Thi Trang. The statue consists of her head mounted on a plinth. Judging from this, she had masses of snowy white curly hair and a rather chubby face. The plinth in minimal; words only records her as a female martyr and a victim. This monument was moved here in 2014 to make way for the construction of the underground railway. She died in a protest against the regime of President Ngo Dinh Diem. The latter was an ardent Catholic who had originally intended to become a priest. His tenure was marred by his blatant favouritism of his own religion to the detriment of the Buddhists. Matters had already come to head in the spiritual capital of Hue where he had banned the flying of the Buddhist flag. A Buddhist monk in Saigon had burned himself to death in protest. Then in August 1963, special armed forces mounted an attack on the Xa Loi Temple in Saigon killing thirty monks, ransacking
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
the place and pulling out the precious stone eyes of a statue of the Buddha. They went on to attack other major temples on the same day. Such was the outrage that the very next day, thousands of students gathered in front of the main gate of the Ben Thanh market. Peaceful methods of crowd dispersal were tried before live ammunition was fired, gunning down Trang who was one of the student leaders in the forefront. This tragedy brought thousands more onto the streets and among older people brought to mind the killing of our youth back in the year 1950.
THE YOUTH'S TALE
Whilst information on Trang's monument is scant, that on the young man's is non-existent. Not even the name is mentioned on the plinth. When it was erected over ten years ago, I immediately recognised it as identical to a statue I had seen by a lake in the city of Ben Tre. It is of Tran Van On, who was born in Ben Tre
province in the Mekong Delta. He was a studious young man as depicted in the statue carrying a book under his shoulder. He was a model student who would have had a bright future. He was studying for the baccalaureate at the Petrus Ky high school in Saigon. He was also a pillar of the student anti-French occupation movement. On 8 January, he was shot in the stomach while in a large crowd asking for the release of detained students. He was taken to the Cho Ray hospital but did not survive. His death sparked much consternation, with as many as twenty-five thousand people attending his funeral.
CONCLUSIONS
In a city with too few green areas, this pretty little park attracts many people. People come here to eat their packed lunches. There are exercising machines
which are popular with the locals. There two amazing tall trees covered in strangler vines. I often see tourists having their photos taken there. Behind the girl's statue here is a large open-area cafe. A park or garden is also a place for reflection. It is exactly the right place to remember these tragic young lives lost. Many curious people will see these figures and wonder just who they were and never go beyond that. All we need is just a couple of plaques giving the basic biographic details. After all, in the museum opposite every exhibit is clearly labelled and explained. They say that a country that does not know its past will have an unsure future. History is important and we need as any reminders of past events as possible. I asked several young educated Vietnamese about these two heroes. They were all familiar with the names but nobody knew
their stories. Information in Vietnamese is needed. As this is a location frequented by foreigners, translation into English and other languages would also be useful. Perhaps an embassy of foreign organisation could sponsor this. Information is a weak point in Vietnamese tourism. Even at quite major attractions there is no pamphlet available either for free or on sale. Tourist information offices are almost non-existent. When you do see a capital ‘I’ sign it is just a crude trick to get you to enter a travel agent's. I was recently in Australia, where every small town has an Information Centre packed with tips for the visitors and staffed with volunteers anxious to promote their local area and country. I know it costs money, but surely this would be a good investment for Vietnam. At least, dear reader, should you visit; you now are ‘in the know’. n
The Luxury Villa and Bungalow designed in unique style - a mix of wild nature and modernly topped with coconut leafs, closed to nature and harmoniously combine ocean views, and garden view, a gorgeous spa center together with diverse services. Pampered relaxation in the resort & spa make your stay refreshing and invigorating.
Let Aroma Beach Resort & Spa be your home of lively sensation ! Address: Quarter 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: + 84 (0)62 3 82 82 88 Fax: + 84 (0)62 3 82 81 11 Email: reservation@aromabeachresort.com
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FOOD
The sweet smell of nostalgia BY THAI SON NGOC
One writer recalls a childhood in the fish sauce capital of Vietnam
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erhaps nowhere in the country does fish sauce smell like in Phan Thiet. It’s this ardent smell and taste of the sea that that make Phan Thiet homesick children? Each year when the pickled fish is done, the smell everybody cherishes fills the air and spreads in cool breezes. Late in 4th lunar month, when it begins to rain, Phan Thiet enters the southern fish season. 15 – 20m long Thai-style boats heaped up with fish crowd Con Cha and Binh Hung docks under Tran Hung Dao Bridge. Life in fishing villages becomes hectic. The fish is moved to smaller boats that go along the embankment, and then loaded onto three-wheelers that transport it to distribution points. Blue anchovy also piles up high along Ca Ty River. Fish sauce makers hire labour to take the fish to their fish tanks. The scattered fish shine and the roads brighten. We used to collect enough to feed the family for a few days. Well-fed with crustaceans, the fish is so plum its yellow fat brims the pot. What a sight!
FOOD
At a fishing village in Ke Ga, Ham Thuan Nam District, Binh Thuan Province, 2015 Photo: Tran Binh An
Making fish sauce in Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province, 2014 Photo: Truong Anh Vu
Making fish sauce in Binh Thuan Province Photo: Ngo Dinh Hong
The wooden fish tanks are normally above an adult’s arm reach. The fish is mixed with salt in a 3 fish : 1 salt ratio before filling the tank. On top, they put stones to keep the fish down and let the sauce surface. After some time. the fish is pickled and its alluring smell begin to spread. It may be too much for strangers, but to the natives of Phan Thiet it’s the sweetest thing. The smell of ‘cooked’ sauce hangs in the air above the Phan Thiet shores from Phu Hai through Thanh Hai, Binh Hung, Duc Thang to Duc Nghia. After about a year being mummified in the tanks, the anchovy disintegrates, producing the sauce that is so unique to Phan Thiet seas. It smells of fish, tastes like fish, and shines like honey. Barrels of Phan Thiet fish sauce are then transported by the sea to distributors all over the country. Nature has favoured Binh Thuan fishermen with a lot of fine anchovy; enough for the flow of Phan Thiet fish sauce reach faraway places of the world. Fish sauce makers consume hundreds of tons of fish each every year to sell, but most of Phan Thiet families also pickle 50-70kg of fish in ceramic jars for their own use and to give to
their friends in other country sides. The nosewidening air of Phan Thiet has crossed all borders to hang over dining tables all over the world. No wonder people around call Phan Thiet natives the ‘fish sauce folks.’ I am so Binh Thuan proud of this nickname. It reflects an over 300-year old tradition of my native land that produces an elixir all Vietnamese would be happy to add to their everyday meal. Every time the southern fish season comes, I can still see vividly in my mind the image of Con Cha, Binh Hung docks and boats loaded with fresh anchovy, and the scene of crowds hurrying to bring the fish home to fill their tanks for a new sauce batch. The sweetness of the sauce always dampens my heart that it nurtured all my youth. n The article in Vietnamese was printed on www.baobinhthuan.com.vn OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
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LOVE
FOOD
CAKES OF BY TA QUANG DAO
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Spousal cake. Photo: Internet
Spousal cakes typically seen at weddings. Photo: Nguyen Ba Ngoc
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the family’s pond, dried and kept in a jar, lders of Dinh Bang village, Bac Ninh N ANCIENT were now taken out and boiled. This tea say that long ago, when King Ly Anh PASTRY SYMBOLIZES was mixed with the fine flour she made to Tong went out to fight foreign create the glamorous yellowish opaque invaders, the Queen herself made some HOLY MATRIMONY colour and the incredibly elegant flavour cakes to send to the front line to show Her of the cakes’ outer layer. After being affection for Him. Moved by the Queen’s gesture, and enjoying the especially attractive taste of the steamed, the cakes were wrapped in lushly green phrynium delicacy, the King named them the spousal cakes to honor or banana leaves and cross-tied with baboo strips dyed in red. The cake’s look, feel and taste combine to bring a tender family love and loyalty, and they became popular among the peace to the senses. Crossing red bamboo strips, green folks ever since. With decades of experience in cake making, my grandma wrapping and shining opaque flesh over yellow stuffing, with always reminds us, ‘To make good spousal cakes, you have to dots of sesame and white thin stripes of coconut make an put your heart into it.’ Indeed, when it came to spousal cakes, innocent symbol of coquette. The soft, jelly-like skin covering she paid utmost attention to even the smallest detail. She said a sweet buttery yellow substance, made crispy by the sesame the most important thing was the flour. Glutinous rice of the and coconut, fulfills the promise of spousal happiness. It best quality was carefully cleansed, dried, and ground, then makes one feel the melodies and colors of the top angle of filtered to make a fine starch, which was then dried in the the Red River’s triangular delta. Spousal cakes always come in pairs. How can they do sun. The flour became so light it was almost airborne. My grandma sifted grean peas, soaked overnight, to otherwise? The lushness of the green wrapping represents dehusk them. Then she steamed the well and ground them the happiness of love. The crossing red strips symbolize finely. Sugar was fried into a light brown glue and mixed well the vow of commitment, and the person entitled to with the green pea starch. Grandma added dried papaya to unwrap the cake can see through into the heart of the create the feel of jelly, and some dried coconut fibers and fried unwrapped one. n black sesame for additional flavor. Some gardenia flowers, which she took from the tree by * The article in Vietnamese was printed on www.danviet.vn
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CRAFTS
THE FABRIC OF LIFE BY THANH CHI
Identity and culture are woven together in Thai brocades Yen Bai
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Weaving loom of Thai people, Nghia Lo Town, Yen Bai Province Photo: Nguyen Ba Ngoc
came to Ms Lo Thi Tuyen’s house in Muong Lo, Trung Tam ward, Nghia Lo township of Yen Bai Province to see beautiful hands making beautiful brocades. The merry sound of shuttles spread far. The image of Thai young girls in cóm shirts and piêu headscarves diligently and deftly working on a loom, is truly impressive and unforgettable. Under the girls’ hands, colours and patterns appear as if by magic. Brocade making is an indispensable traditional cultural feature of the material and spiritual life of the Thai people in Muong Lo. From the age of six or seven, little Thai girls begin to be patiently instructed by their mothers in cotton gathering, thread spinning, and weaving,. In Thai notions, a beautifully woven and embroidered piece of brocade is a sure guarantee that its maker can make her family happy and is worthy of men’s attention. Thai women take a lot of pains to make this display of their meticulous skills. The threads are colours with natural dyes extracted from plants found in the forests. Each colour used to make brocades is taken from the essence of heaven and earth. Black is the colour of the earth, blue is from the sky, yellow is the harmony between humans and nature, and red is the irrepressible pulse of life. That’s why Thai women have to spend months to grow cotton and mulberry, to spin and dye threads and to weave their own piece of brocade.
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A Thai woman in Nghia Lo Town, Yen Bai Province Photo: Nguyen Ba Ngoc
The weaving techniques of plain and patterned brocades are different. Thai patterns directly reflect their lives, and so each piece of brocade is a picture of daily activities, happiness and sorrow, all mirrored in the memories and imagination of its maker. The patterns and embroideries used in Thai brocades are mostly animals, plants and everyday life scenes. They represent Thai girls’ notions and aspirations of happiness. The Thai patterns are distinct and rarely confused with the patterns of other ethnicities. Brocades are an integral part of the Thai people’s life, especially at weddings. Before moving into their husband’s house, each young Thai woman has to make sets of beautiful blankets, bed sheets and pillows by her own hands to show her gratitude and loyalty to her in-laws before being accepted as a new family member. Her qualities as a woman will be judged by the quality of the weaving and embroidery of those gifts. Thai traditional weaving and embroidery products are present in every major festive and religious occasion. n *The article in Vietnamese was printed on www.baoyenbai.com.vn
Khăn Piêu dance, a traditional dance ofThai people, usually seen in their festivals, Van Chan District, Yen Bai Province, 2015 Photo: Doan Thanh Ha
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DOI MOI - REFORM PERIOD
THE JOURNEY OF DREAM
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ietnam National Museum of History inherits and upholds the reputation of 50 glorious years of its predecessors, the Museum of History of Vietnam and the Vietnam Museum of Revolution, and the leaders with rich traditions who contributed greatly to the cause of protection, preservation and promotion of national cultural heritage. Since their founding, the two museums were always closely monitored by Chairman Ho Chi Minh (he visited them 8 times) and other leaders of the Party and Government. On Sep 22, the Vietnam National Museum of History had the honor of receiving from the Party and Government the First Rank Medal of Labour to celebrate the 5 year anniversary of its establishment (Sep 26, 2011 – Sep 26, 2016). Also on this occasion, the Vietnam National Museum of History opens the ‘Reform Period – The journey of dreams’ exhibition to celebrate 30 years of the country’s reform (1986 – 2016).
A SPECIAL EXHIBITION ABOUT REFORM PERIOD
‘Reform Period – The journey of dreams’ is a special exhibition designed with about 200 artifacts, documents and images from the Vietnam National Museum of History’s collection, combined with stories, introductions, and quotes... Through many documents, artifacts, audio clips, stories of politicians, researchers and common folks, ‘Reform Period – The journey of dreams’ conveys to visitors images and information about an important historical period of the country. Behind the changes and achievements are the spirit of creativity and aspiration for innovation nurtured in each person. The exhibition space presents 5 major topics: 1. Reform Period or death: presenting reasons for Reform Period, reformation philosophy and policies and the role and legacy of politicians, who initiated, led and organized the mission of rebuilding the country. 2. The opportunity: economic reforms open chances for Vietnam to develop. 3. Dynamics – Integration: The Reform Period made Vietnamese people more dynamic and opened up the country to integrate with the world community through exchange, cooperation, import and export. 4. Growth: The Reform Period transformed Vietnam from a food importer to the second biggest rice exporter of the world. After 30 years of Reform Period, Vietnam’s socio-economic infrastructure has developed quickly with many modern constructions that truly face-lifted the country. 5. Strength: The Reform Period has improved the people’s life in terms of healthcare, education and culture; refreshed and boosted the life and work of each person, each family and brought renewed faith and strength for Vietnam to move steadily toward prosperity. The exhibition also has a separate space, called the ‘Wall of Memories’, for visitors to express their recollections about the Reform Period period. The exhibition also impresses visitors with a humane approach, introducing voices and popular slang through stories and artifacts about the Reform Period. Media equipments supplements with more comprehensive information, such as clips of interviewed specialists and common people, for the showcased content. Through this exhibition, the Vietnam National Museum of History would like to receive more stories, materials and artifacts about Reform Period from the public in order to further improve and enrich the exhibition.
Top and middle: night light, pressure cookers, electric stove, 14” red chassis JVC TV, electric ventilators, ... people’s dream at that time, brought from abroad. Bottom: DD motorbike, used by Mr Nguyen Trong Chi’s family from Dao Tan St., Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi since 1992
VIETNAM NATIONAL MUSEUM OF HISTORY
n 1 Trang Tien St., Hanoi / 216 Tran Quang Khai St., Hanoi n Tel: (04) 38241384 n Website: www.baotanglichsu.vn
EVENTS EXHIBITIONS
HANOI
Floating ink and natural waste Till 21 October
Till 21, October artist Sto Len will set up his studio at Manzi Art Space and invite visitors to see his works produced in Hanoi and New York. Sto captures unexpected moments of beauty in the form of monoprints following Japanese Suminagashi (floating ink) marbling methods. In Vietnam, Sto will be continuing his recent body of work of printing on old maps and posters – a ‘collaboration’ that unsettles the seeming rigidity and authority of cartography and official information. He will also be producing his ‘natural waste’ prints – having realized that he can employ his printing technique in the soiled waterways of New York, he has been experimenting with pulling prints of poisonous beauty out of them and is looking to do the same in the many bodies of water in Hanoi and its surroundings. Manzi Art Space, 14 Phan Huy Ich St, Hanoi. Free entry.
paints a bleak portrait and the state of a community confronted with numerous upheavals. Nha San Collective, 15th floor, Hanoi Creative City Building, 1 Luong Yen St, Hanoi. MUSIC
Ghostly ‘Giselle’ 21 and 22 October
A romantic ballet ‘Giselle’ will be shown at 8 p.m. 21 and 22 October at the Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. The ballet is about a peasant girl named Giselle, who dies of a broken heart after discovering her lover is betrothed to another. The Wilis, a group of supernatural women who dance men to death, summon Giselle from her grave. They target her lover for death, but Giselle's great love frees him from their grasp. Tickets range from VND300,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House, or can book over www.ticketvn.
A storm of music 21-23 October
Inside out Till 29 October
Dong Phong Gallery is running an exhibition by artist Nguyen Cong Cu till 29 October. Emotions of anger, sadness, happiness and social frustration are expressed in his artworks, which use the technique of collage and acrylic on canvas. Dong Phong Gallery, 3 Ly Dao Thanh St, Hanoi.
‘Across the forest’ Till 6 November
‘Across the Forest’ is an exhibition of Jarai artist Truong Cong Tung at Nha San Collective till 6 November. The exhibition shows a deeprooted fascination with the history and culture of the Jarai, an ethnic group in Central Highlands. Fusing folklore elements with his personal observation of the landscape and the lives of the modern Jarai people, his video installation work
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at Vietnam National Academy of Music, 77 Hao Nam St, Hanoi. Tickets range from VND200,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi or can book be booked at www.ticketvn.
Subscription Concert 95 26 and 27 October
‘Subscription Concert Vol.95’ will be showed at 8 p.m. on 26 and 27 October at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. The show has participations by conductor Olivier Ochanine, pianists Pham Quynh Trang and Tran Tam Ngoc, and artists from the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra. Tickets start from VND200,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi or can book be booked at www.ticketvn.
Sound of the wind 29 October
Pianist Pho An My collaborates with composer Dang Tue Nguyen to present ‘Wind’, inspired by a classic Chèo opera, ‘Guanyin Thị Kinh’. Thanh Hoai using Vietnamese Chèo opera combined with piano melody of pianist Pho An My will bring audiences an unique experience. The show is on 8 p.m. 29 October at the Worker’s Theatre, 43 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Tickets start from VND600,000. Book online ticket over www.ticketvn or call 0169 8969 489/ 0123 9008 284
Local artists add sound to silent film 29 October
Monsoon Music festival 2016 is on from 2123 October at Thang Long Citadel. This year the festival includes famous Vietnamese and international singers and music bands from UK, USA, Denmark, France, Sweden, Germany, Korea, Japan and South Africa. Thang Long Citadel, 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi. Tickets start from VND550,000.
On the stage of L’Espace at 8 p.m. 29 October, French guitarist Sylvain Streiff, zither player Nguyen Thuy Dung and pianist Phan Phuc will accompany the live screening of the Japanese silent film ‘A Page of Madness’ from 1926. The artists share a deep interest in traditional Vietnamese music, experimental music and the preparation of instruments. L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Ticket: VND170,000
A worthy goal 23 October
Subscription Concert 96 11 and 12 November
Hanoi New Music Ensemble (HNME) was founded in 2015 with the hope to ‘change the musical tastes of the Vietnamese audience and bring the international and local contemporary music to Vietnam.’ The band will perform 8 p.m. 23 October at the L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hanoi. Ticket: VND100,000
Symphony Concert 25 October
Conductor Henri Pompidor, baritone Phuc Tiep, mezzo soprano Phuong Uyen, tenor Nguyen Vu, pianist Nguyen Hang and artists from the Hanoi Philharmonic Orchestra will play a ‘Symphony Concert’ at 8 p.m. 25 October
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
‘Subscription Concert Vol.96’ will be on at 8 p.m. 11 and 12 November at the Hanoi Opera House with conductor Honna Tetsuji, baritone Matthias Goerne from Germany and artists from Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra. The prices range from VND200,000. Tickets are available at the Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi or can book over www.ticketvn.
Six decades of music 25 November
To celebrate the 60th year of Vietnam National Academy of Music, conductor Honna Tetsuji will lead artists from Vietnam National
EVENTS Academy of Music, the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra, the Vietnam National Opera Ballet Orchestra and the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra, bringing audiences a special concert at 8 p.m. on 25 November at the Vietnam National Academy of Music, 77 Hao Nam St, Hanoi. Tickets range from VND200,000. Tickets are available at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi or can book over www.ticketvn. FILMS
Much ado about something Till 29 October
Movies about Shakespeare’s plays will be screened every Saturday from now till 29 October at The Centre for Assistance and Development of Movie Talents in Hanoi and at the Hoa Sen University in Ho Chi Minh City. Vietnamese audiences will be delighted by the timeless values in Shakespeare works through a fine collection of movies, which include Romeo and Juliet (1968), Much Ado about Nothing (1993) and Richard III (1995). Centre for Assistance and Development of Movie Talents (TPD), 4th floor, 51 Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi. Hoa Sen University, 8 Nguyen Van Trang St, Dist 1, HCMC. Please register for free tickets at http://svy.mk/2doA7t5 (Hanoi) or http://svy.mk/2cszYoc (Ho Chi Minh City).
HOA BINH
Chronicling the Old Quarter Till 20 October
Muong Studio Invites audiences to see ‘Hanoi Old Quarter’ through the eyes of students from Fine Art University after a 45-day field trip. Without restrictions on material or methodology, the exhibition presents sketches, water colour, oil painting, silk, sculpture, print, installation, book art and sound art. It runs till 20 October at Muong Studio, 202 Tay Tien St, Hoa Binh Province.
NHA TRANG
Showing ‘love’ to Nha Trang City Till 22 October
‘Sea of Love’, an exhibition panting of popular Vietnamese painter Pham Luc, is on till 22 October at Sunrise Nha Trang, 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang. The exhibition includes 74 paintings, covering various painting genres including classical European styles of townscape, landscape, seascape, still life, figurative composition, intimate nudes and self-portraits. The works are
done in a variety of classical painting media, including oil on canvas, oil on paper, and the artist’s trademark — oil on rice sacks, gouache and water-colour, as well as in the traditional Vietnamese lacquer technique. The paintings depict the beauty of Nha Trang City in many different aspects.
HO CHI MINH CITY
EXHIBITIONS
The Art of Women 22 October
Park Hyatt Saigon organizes ‘Art at the Park 2016’, with the theme of 'women.' The event includes a painting exhibition organized by Craig Thomas Gallery, a special performance by renowned painter Lieu Nguyen Huong Duong, a solo dance by Dao Thuy Thuy Van from Arabesque, a fashion show by designer Thuy Nguyen, a performance of the HCMC Conservatory of music and Saigon Philharmonic Orchestra. It is on 22 October at the Park Hyatt Saigon, 2 Lam Son Square, Dist.1, HCMC.
Searching for peace Till 27 October
An exhibition, ‘Where is the place of peace’ by artist Le Thuy is on at Craig Thomas Gallery till 27 October. In the setting of the Vietnamese countryside, her paintings depict the life-anddeath struggle of nature and is often tinged with a large dollop of madness and even the macabre. Craig Thomas Gallery, 165 Calmette, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.
Solo view of Hanoi Till 30 October
‘Hanoi on My Own’, a lacquer painting exhibition by Trinh Tuan and Cong Kim Hoa is on till 30 October at Eight Gallery, 8 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.
Fired up about pottery Till 30 October
The Japan Foundation Centre for Cultural Exchange in Vietnam, in cooperation with the Consulate – General of Japan in HCMC proudly present an exhibition, ‘Japanese Pottery: The Rising Generation from Traditional Japanese Kilns’ till 30 October at the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City, 92 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, HCMC. ‘Japanese Pottery – The Rising Generation from Traditional Japanese Kilns’ introduces the works of 35 artists from seven major traditional kiln sites in Japan. They differ in orientation, including some who carry on long traditions of pottery production while pursuing ever-richer standards in their craft and others who seek to create individualistic works exploring new
forms. The theme of the exhibition focuses on ‘vessels’, endeavoring to show how ceramic artists understand the function of vessels. Free admission.
The politics of food
Till 24 November The Factory Contemporary Arts Centre is organizing an exhibition: ‘Flat Sunlight’ by artist Lena Bui till 24 November. The exhibition is the result of half a year living and observing traditional farming life in rural Vietnam. She is wary of globalization and the effect this is having not only on the quality of the food we eat, but also its disruption of traditional farming communities. The final work in this exhibition gives viewers a filmic window onto the everyday life of a Vietnamese livestock farmer. Throughout this exhibition weaves a series of texts in response to the work on view, written by local Vietnamese scientists and an emerging playwright, as scientific record and artistic inflection. Showcasing film, installation and drawing, this exhibition will also possess an interactive science corner; a public lecture series for adults; and art/science workshops for children curated by Dr. Mary Chambers and the Public Engagement team at the Oxford Clinical Research Unit. The Factory Contemporary Arts Centre, 15 Nguyen U Di St, Dist.2, HCMC OTHER
Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2016 From 23 October to March, 2017
This year, Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards 2016, organized by Vietnam Heritage with Canon as main sponsor, attracted 507 photographers with 5,446 photos submitting to the contest. 100 selected photos will be displayed in Binh Thuan Province, Khanh Hoa Province, Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Danang. In Binh Thuan Province, from 23 to 28 October at the Ocean Dune Resort, 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet City. In Khanh Hoa Province, from 3 to 8 November at the Nha Trang University, 2 Nguyen DInh Chieu St, Nha Trang and from 11 to 14 November at the 2/4 Square, Tran Phu St, Nha Trang. In Ho Chi Minh City, 30 October to 10 November at the Vietnam National University HCMC, Linh Trung Ward, Thu Duc District and from 15 to 17 November at the Youth Cultural House, 4 Pham Ngoc Thach St, Dist.3. In Hanoi, from 8 to 12 November at the Foreign Trade University, 91 Chua Lang St, Dong Da Dist and from 28 November, 2016 to 28 February, 2017 at the Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist. In Danang, from 23 November, 2016 to 30 March, 2017 at the Museum of Cham Sculpture, No2, 2/9 St, Binh Hien, Hai Chau Dist.
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VALUE FOR MONEY HOTELS
Indochine Palace Hotel
105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com Indochine Palace Hotel has a ‘Weekend Package’ till 31 December. It costs VND5,800,000 per room for two nights including a dinner and a 60minute spa treatment.
Diamond Sea Hotel
232 Vo Nguyen Giap St, Son Tra District, Danang Tel: (0511) 3939-777 www.diamondseahotel.com
Le Meridien Saigon is offering a promotion for those who book at least two nights. It costs VND3,300,000++ per night including breakfast and a 60-minute spa treatment.
RESORTS AND SPAS
La Residence Hotel & Spa 5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3837-475 www.la-residence-hue.com
La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa is offering a threenight Festive Package at VND9,130,000 ($415) per room for two with breakfast, a 45-minute spa treatment, a one-way airport transfer and a 10 per cent discount on food and beverage. It is valid from 1 December, 2016 to 15 January, 2017.
A La Carte Danang
200 Vo Nguyen Giap St, Phuoc My Ward, Son Tra Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3959-555 www.alacartedanangbeach.com Diamond Sea Hotel is running a ‘Romantic Couple’s Deal’ at VND7,899,000++ including a three-night’s stay in a Ocean Premier Room, breakfast, a dinner, a 60-minute body massage and a round trip airport transfers.
Century Riverside Hue 49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3823-390
Century Riverside Hue is running an ‘Autumn Deal’ at VND1,050,000 per room per night with breakfast. It is valid till 31 October. The price includes service charge and VAT.
Hue Ecolodge
2 Luong Quan St, Thuy Bieu Village, Hue Tel: (054) 3935-818
Hue Ecolodge is offering a 30 per cent discount on room rates for bookings on its website www.hue.ecolodge.asia till 31 October.
A La Carte Danang is offering a memorable two-night honeymoon package at VND6,990,000 in a Light Studio with breakfast, spa treatments and a romantic candle-light dinner accompanying with wine and cocktail. The price includes service charge and VAT.
Palm Garden Resort
Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-927
The Costa Nha Trang Hotel & Residences 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3737-037
The Costa Nha Trang Hotel & Residences is offering a wide range of special packages till 30 November. ‘3 Day 2 Night Package’ with the rates starting from VND4,600,000/package. ‘4 Day 3 Night Package’ starting from VND6,900,000/package. ‘5 Day 4 Night Package’ starting from VND7,800,000/package.
Le Meridien Hotel Saigon
3C Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6263-688 40 •
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The spa is set in the beautiful tropical garden, equipped with modern facilities and uses famous product from Italy ‘Comfort Zone’. Its professional therapists will soothe your tense and tired muscles after a long holiday.
Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa 5 Quarter, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet Tel: (062) 3748-868
Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa is offering a two-night package at VND2,500,000 per room in a Grand Deluxe Ocean View with breakfast, two lunches or two dinners, free laundry service and a 15-minute foot massage.
Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 www.anamandara-resort.com
Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa has launched an ‘Indulgence Package’ at VND5,460,000 per room for two nights with breakfast, facial or foot massage for lady, a complimentary one-way airport transfer, a 30 per cent discount on spa treatment from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day, a 10 per cent discount on food and beverage and a 10 per cent discount on excursion service. The package is valid till 31 October.
Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa Tuyen Lam Lake, Dalat Tel: (063) 3831-515 www.dalatedensee.com
Dalat Edensee Lake Resort & Spa has a ‘Autumn Package 2016’ at VND3,900,000 including a two-night’s stay in Mimosa Superior Room, breakfast, dinner, outdoor activities and shuttle bus to Dalat centre. The price includes service charge and VAT. It runs till 31 October.
Kara Spa Palm Spa, at the Palm Garden Resort, is running a promotion ‘Buy 1 get 1 free’ for body massage with a selection of Palm Signature, Swedish massage, Thai massage, Balinese Sensation, Aroma Regular, Vietnamese Regular, Hot-stone massage and Herbal massage. Each treatment is 60 minutes with the price from VND1,058,000.
OCTOBER- NOVEMBER 2016
Caravelle Saigon 19-23 Cong Truong Lam Son St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4999 www.caravellehotel.com
Kara Spa, at the Caravelle Saigon, has a twohour body retreat package including a 30-minute sea salt body scrub, a 30-minute body wrap and a 60-minute aromatherapy body massage. It costs VND1,450,000. It is valid till the end of November.
VALUE FOR MONEY La Veranda Resort
Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 www.laverandaresorts.com
To mark its 10th anniversary in October, La Veranda Resort Phu Quoc MGallery By Sofitel has many special offers, such as $145 per night in a Deluxe Garden View; 10th Anniversary Wine Receptions and a new complimentary Afternoon Tea Reception; and a package called ‘Inspired By Love’ with 12-curated romantic experiences for couples in love. Also, the five-star La Veranda Resort has recently won as Vietnam’s Luxury Beachfront Boutique Hotel of The Year awarded by Luxury Travel Guide.
FOOD PROMOTIONS
Melia Hanoi Hotel
44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-3343
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi
15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel : (04) 3826-6919
Saigon night’s views. There will be live acoustic performance every Friday, 8 p.m. to 9 p.m., from 30 September. Guests staying at the hotel will get a 15 per cent discount at Zen Rooftop Bar.
Sheraton Saigon Hotel &Towers
88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2828
Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi is celebrating the 10th Annual Food and Wine Festival till 23 November. Seven celebrated chefs from Italy, France, Vietnam, Thailand and China will gather and show their culinary skills in five wine dinners and eight delectable events that will include live cooking demonstrations, bread-making classes, wine and cheese pairings, chocolate tastings, and private dinners.
InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777
Cookbook Café, at the InterContinental Nha Trang, has a variety of local seafood and international cuisine in buffets on Thursday, Friday and Saturday at VND740,000++ per person. Also, Aqualine Bat at the hotel has a BBQ party by the pool every day, noon to 5 p.m., with a plenty of meat, seafood and greens at VND450,000++ for two persons.
InterContinental Asiana Saigon
Corner Hai Ba Trung St and Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999
Li Bai Chinese Restaurant, at the Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, introduces a weekend buffet dinner during the month of October, showcasing the best dishes of Li Bai and Western dishes accompanying by free flow of wines, draft beer, soft drinks, tea & coffee. There is also a huge sweet dessert corner. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday on 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. VND990,000++ per person.
The Reverie Saigon
57-69F Dong Khoi St. Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-6688
This October, The Royal Pavilion, at the Reverie Saigon, is introducing crab dishes cooked in the Cantonese style. Highlight dishes on the menu include steamed crab claw with egg white and black truffle paste, simmered crab with glass vermicelli in clay pot, and stir-fried crab with garlic and chili. The prices starts from VND428,000++ per dish. Lunch: Monday - Friday: 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and Saturday, Sunday: 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Dinner: Daily 6 p.m. - 10 p.m.
Windsor Plaza Hotel
18 An Duong Vuong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688
El Patio Restaurant, at the Melia Hanoi Hotel, launches ‘Lobsterized A la Carte’ in October and November serving a wide range of mouth-watering lobster dishes at VND1,200,000++. Halloween is coming! The chefs at restaurant will also prepare a special Halloween buffet dinner in a horror ambience on 31 October, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. The prices start from VND560,000 without drinks.
InterContinental Saigon invites diner to discovery Singaporean cuisine at its restaurant every last Friday of the month. Do not miss out first buffet dinner at Market 39 Restaurant on 28 October at VND980,000 including beverage.
Fusion Suites Saigon
3 – 5 Suong Nguyet Anh St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3925-7257
Fusion Suites Saigon recently launched Zen Rooftop Bar on the 10th floor, an ideal place for enjoying the best tapas in town in an outstanding
Café Central An Dong, at the Windsor Plaza Hotel, has a German culinary tour including Sauerkraut, German Oxtail Soup, Veal Sausage, Frankfurter, Pork Knuckle, BBQ Pork Ribs, Beef Stew and Honey Glazed Ham. Dinner Buffet, 6 p.m. – 10 p.m., Monday – Friday at VND588,000++ per person including free flow German draught beer, juice and soft drinks and Saturday and Sunday at VND688,000++ per person including free flow of German draught beer, sparkling wine, juice and soft drinks. nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn
Rates may be subject to 5-per-cent service charge and 10-per-cent VAT if there is no statement to the contrary.
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03 Nguyen Du Str., Dalat City Lam Dong Province, Vietnam Tel: 063 3810 826 - Fax: 063 3549 036 Representative Office in HCMC Tel: 08 6295 8845 - Fax: 08 6295 8865 www.monetgarden.com.vn
DIRECTIONS SAPA, HALONG, HAI PHONG EMERGENCIES POLICE : FIRE :
AMBULANCE :
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SAPA
(TELEPHONE CODE: 020) Sapa is a former French hill station in northwestern Vietnam, in Lao Cai Province, near the Chinese border. A number of minority cultures including the H’mong, Dao and Tay live in villages in the countryside around Sapa. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Cat Cat View Hotel 46 Fan Xi Pang St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-946 www.catcathotel.com Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel & Spa 23B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3872-907 www.chapagarden.com Chau Long Sapa Hotel
U Sapa Hotel
8 Cau May, Sapa Tel: (020) 3871-996 www.uhotelsresorts.com RESTAURANTS Buffalo Bell Restaurant 25 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-455 Delta Restaurant 33 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-799 Fansipan Restaurant 23 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-556
HALONG
(TELEPHONE CODE: 033) With around 1,600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay, about 170 km east of Hanoi, is well known for its limestone seascape. Overnight boat trips out of Halong City are a popular way to see it. HOSPITALS
Asean Halong Hotel Hau Can St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3640-034 www.aseanhalonghotel.com Halong Hidden Charm Hotel Block 22D, Tuan Chau Villas, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-360 www.hiddencharmhotel.com.vn Halong Palace Hotel 1, Block 20 Dong Hung Thang, Hoang Quoc Viet St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3619-819 www.halongpalacehotel.com Halong Plaza Hotel 8 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-810 www.halongplaza.com Heritage Halong Hotel 88 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-888 www.heritagehalonghotel.com.vn Mường Thanh Halong Hotel No.7, Block 20, East of Hung Thang, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3812-468/ (033) 3819-777 www.muongthanhhotel.vn Novotel Ha Long Bay 160 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Saigon Halong Hotel Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-845 www.saigonhalonghotel.com StarCity Halong Bay Hotel
Bai Chay Hospital Gieng Day Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-557 www.benhvienbaichay.vn 24 Dong Loi St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-245 www.chaulonghotel.com.vn Holiday Sapa Hotel 16 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-874 www.holidaysapa.com Mường Thanh Sapa Hotel 44, Ngu Chi Son, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3887-766 www.muongthanh.vn Royal Hotel 54B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3771-131 www.royalsapahotel.com Topas Ecolodge Thanh Kim Ward, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (04) 3715-1005 www.topasecolodge.com Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa Xuan Vien St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-522 www.victoriahotels.asia
TRAVEL
Halong Tourism 1 Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-272 Quang Ninh Tourism Company Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-350 Syrena Cruises Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com HOTELS, RESORTS
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily
\ Reu Island, Bai Chay, Ha Long, Viet Nam Tel: (033) 3556-868 www.vinpearl.com RESTAURANTS
Co Ngu Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3511-363 Jumbo Vietnam Floating Restaurant 119 Le Thanh Tong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3624-888 Sea Food Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-822
Halong Gold Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-142
BARS & CAFÉS
Emeraude Café 6A Le Thanh Tong St, Hon Gai, Halong Tel: (033) 3849-266 www.emeraude-cruises.com Royal International Gaming Club and Villa Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-777
HAI PHONG CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 031) HOTELS, RESORTS
Traditional Medicine Hospital Cot 8, Hong Ha Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3838-113 Vietnam-Sweden Hospital Thanh Son Ward, Uong Bi Commune, Halong Tel: (033) 3854-037 www.bvubqn.tk
Vinpearl Halong
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catba Princes Hotel 168 Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-058 www.starcityhalongbay.com In the centre of Halong, StarCity Halong Bay Hotel offers 152 wellequipped rooms, with many breathtaking views of Halong Bay Tuan Chau Island Holiday Villa Halong Bay 303 Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3888-899 www.catbaprinceshotel.com Catba Sunrise Resort Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3887-360 www.catbasunriseresort.com
Tuan Chau Island, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-999 www.holidayvillahalongbay.com
Avani Hai Phong Harbour View 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3827-827 www.avanihotels.com
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A 1. B aD inh S quare Ba Dinh Square
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rison 2. H oa L oP Hoa Lo Prison
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Stt Joseph Joseph’s Cathedral 3. S ’s C athedral
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ouse Opera House 4. Hanoi O pera H
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Cot Co Tower 5. C ot C oT ower
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Women’s 6. W omen’s Museum
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7. H oC hi M inh Museum Ho Chi Minh
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8. IImperial mperial C itadel of T Citadel Thang Long hang L ong
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9. V ietnam National National Museum of History Vietnam History F3 10. V ietnam M ilitary H istory Museum D2 Vietnam Military History illar 11. O ne P One Pillar
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ausoleum 12. H oC hi M inh M Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
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13. Ngo on T emple Ngocc S Son Temple
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14. Dong Da H ill Hill
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15. Dong X uan M arket Xuan Market
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STREET GUIDE
Ba Trieu...................E3, E4 Bac Son.........................D1 Bach Dang.....................F2 Bach Mai........................E4 Bat Dan..........................E2 Bich Cau........................C2 Buoi................................A1 Cat Linh..........................C2 Cha Ca....................E1, E2 Cua Bac.........................D1 Cua Dong.......................D2
Da Tuong.......................E3 Dang Tat.........................D1 Dao Duy Anh.................D4 Dao Duy Tu.............E1, E2 Dien Bien Phu................D2 Doc Ngu.........................A1 Doi Can.............A1, B2, C2 Duong Thanh.................E2 Gam Cau........................E1 Giai Phong.....................D4 Giang Vo.....A3 ,B3 ,B2,C2
Hai Ba Trung.....E2, E3, F3 Ham Long......................E3 Han Thuyen....................F3 Hang Bac.......................E2 Hang Bo.........................E2 Hang Bong.....................E2 Hang Buom....................E2 Hang Can.......................E2 Hang Chuoi....................F3 Hang Cot........................E1 Hang Da.........................E2 Hang Dao.......................E2
Hang Dau.......................E1 Hang Ga.........................E2 Hang Gai........................E2 Hang Khay.....................E2 Hang Khoai....................E1 Hang Ma.........................E1 Hang Quat......................E2 Hang Trong....................E2 Hang Chieu....................E1 Hang Luoc......................E1 Hao Nam........................C2 Hoa Ma...........................F3
Hoang Dieu.............D1, D2 Hoang Hoa Tham............... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 Hoang Van Thu..............D1 Hoe Nhai........................E1 Hung Vuong............D1, D2 Huynh Thuc Khang........A3 Kham Thien.............C3, D3 Kim Ma..............A2, B2, C2 La Thanh.................B3, C3 Lang Ha..........................B3 Nguyen Chi Thanh.........A3
Le Dai Hanh...................E4 Le Duan............D2, D3, D4 Le Hong Phong.............D2 Le Lai..............................F2 Le Thai To.......................E2 Le Thanh Tong...............F3 Le Van Huu....................E3 Lieu Giai........................A2 Lo Duc......................F3, F4 Lo Su..............................F2 Luong Ngoc Quyen.......E2 Luong Van Can..............E2
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Ly Nam De..............E1, E2 Ly Quoc Su....................E2 Ly Thai To.......................F2 Ly Thuong Kiet........E3, F3 Mai Hac De..............E3, E4 Ngo Quyen.....................F3 Ngo Si Lien....................D2 Ngo Thi Nham................E3 Ngoc Ha.........................C1 Ngoc Khanh...................B2 Nguyen Canh Chan......D1 Nguyen Cong Hoa.........B2
Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ .................................E3, E4 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Huu Huan........ F2 Nguyen Khuyen.............D2 Nguyen Luong Bang.....C3 Nguyen Thai Hoc....C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien......... ........................................D3 Nguyen Van To..............E2 Nha Chung.....................E2 Nha Tho.........................E2
Nui Truc..........................B2 Pham Dinh Ho................F3 Pham Ngu Lao...............F3 Phan Boi Chau.......D2, D3 Phan Chu Trinh..............F3 Phan Dinh Phung..........D1 Phan Huy Chu................F3 Pho Duc Chinh...............F3 Pho Hue...................E3, E4 Phu Doan.......................E2 Phung Hung............E1, E2 Quan Su..................E2, E3
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Quan Thanh...................D1 Quang Trung...........E2, E3 Quoc Tu Giam...............D2 Son Tay..........................C2 Thai Phien......................E4 Thanh Cong...................B3 Thanh Nien....................D1 Tho Nhuom.............E2, E3 Thuy Khue.......................... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 To Hien Thanh...............E4 Tong Dan........................F2
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Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Hung Dao................... ...........................D3, E3, F3 Tran Huy Lieu................B2 Tran Khanh Du...............F3 Tran Khat Chan..............F4 Tran Nguyen Han..........F2 Tran Nhan Tong......D3, E3 Tran Nhat Duat..............E1 Tran Phu........................D2 Tran Quang Khai............F2 Tran Qui Cap.................D2
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Tran Quoc Toan......D3, E3 Tran Thanh Tong............F3 Tran Xuan Soan................. .................................E3, E4 Trang Thi........................E2 Trang Tien................E2, F3 Trieu Viet Vuong......E3, E4 Trinh Hoai Duc...............C2 Tue Tinh.........................E3 Yen Phu..........................E1 Yersin..............................F4 Yet Kieu..........................D3
DIRECTIONS HANOI HANOI
HOTELS
(TELEPHONE CODE: 04)
MEDICAL CENTRES
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily
Acupuncture Institute 49 Thai Thinh St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3563-1069 Hanoi French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3577-1100 International SOS Clinic 1 Dang Thai May St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0666
Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 www.hanoi.hilton.com Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com/hanoi
Thuy Tran Otolaryngology Clinic 6 Do Quang St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi (6/61 Tran Duy Hung Avenue) Tel: (04) 3556-6124 www.taimuihongthuytran.com Vinmec international hospital 458 Minh Khai St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3974-3556 AIRLINES Air France 1 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3484 Qatar Airways Hilton Hanoi Opera Building, M floor, 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-6767 www.qatarairways.com Singapore Airlines 17 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3826-8888 Vietnam Airlines 25 Trang Thi St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-0320 TRAVEL
Amega Travel Hancorp Plaza, 72 Tran Dang Ninh St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3783-3570 www.amegatours.net Buffalo Tours 10th Floor, 70-72 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-0702 www.buffalotours.com Emeraude Classic Cruises 46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com Exotissmo 3rd Floor, 66A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com Topas Travel 52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715-1005 www.topastravel.vn
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HERITAGE
Pullman Hanoi 40 Cat Linh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-0808 www.pullman-hanoi.com Sheraton Hanoi Hotel 11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 www.sofitel-legend.com RESTAURANTS Au Lac do Brazil II 6A Cao Ba Quat St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-5224 Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com Serving French food with a Vietnamese cuisine Hoa Vien Brauhaus 1A Tang Bat Ho St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3972-5088 www.hoavien.vn The restaurant has been famous for its production of Czech beer Le Tonkin Restaurant 14 Ngo Van So St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3457 www.letonkinrestaurant.vn Serves Vietnamese food
BOOK STORE
Infostones Bookshop 41 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-2993 Thousands of magazines and books by hundreds of publishing houses worldwide SHOPS
Craft Link 43 and 51 Van Mieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-7710 Ha Dong Silk 102 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3928-5056
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OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
Tan My Embroidery 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1579 Viet Culture 1 Trang Thi St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-7417 Mekong Quilts 13 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4831 www.mekong-quilts.org
FURNITURE/ INTERIOR Dome Au Co 9 Au Co St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-5866 Dome Yen The 10 Yen The St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-6036
SIGHTSEEINGS
Ba Dinh Square 36A Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Ba Dinh Square, where President Ho Chi Minh declared Vietnam’s independence in September 1945, is a complex of historic sites. Cot Co Tower 28 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Cot Co Tower, the so-called Flag Tower, is now part of the Vietnam Military History Museum complex. The Tower was built in 1950, under the Nguyen Dynasty, with the help of French engineers. The tower has 36 flower-shaped windows. At the top of the tower flies the flag of Vietnam. Hanoi Opera House 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Designed by a French architect along the lines of the Paris Opera House, it is embellished with wonderful Gothic statuary. For many decades, Hanoi Opera House has been a centre for theatre, traditional music and dance, symphonies, traditional and classical music. This, the largest theatre in Vietnam, was completed in 1911. Hoa Lo Prison ‘La Maison Centrale’, the prison on Hoa Lo Street in Hanoi, was built by the French in 1896 and became the place where generations of Vietnamese freedom fighters were held. St Joseph’s Cathedral 40 Nha Chung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Fresh missionaries built this cathedral in the late 19th century. The small but beautiful panes of stained glass were created in Paris in 1906. Also of note is the ornate altar, with its high gilded sidewalls. MUSEUMS
Hanoi Museum 2 Pham Hung (next to Vietnam National Convention Centre), Me Tri Commune, Tu Liem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6287-06 04
Opening hour: 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Free entrance Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 37345427 www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000 Vietnam National Museum of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi 25 Tong Dan St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed every first Monday of months. Entry fee VND40,000 ($1.82) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95) Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND40,000 ($2) Women’s Museum 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)
DIRECTIONS NINH BINH, NGHE AN, QUANG BINH, HUE, DANANG, HOI AN
NINH BINH
(TELEPHONE CODE: 030) Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien Dist., Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 www.emeraldaresort.com Ninh Binh Legend Hotel Tien Dong Zone, Ninh Khanh Ward, Ninh Binh City. Tel: (030) 3899-880 www.ninhbinhlegendhotel.com
NGHE AN
(TELEPHONE CODE: 038) Muong Thanh Song Lam Hotel 13 Quang Trung St, Quang Trung Ward, Vinh, Nghe An Province Tel: (038) 3737-666 www.songlam.muongthanh.vn
Imperial Hotel 8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3882-222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Indochine Palace Hotel 105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue. La Residence Hotel & Spa
QUANG BINH
(TELEPHONE CODE: 052) HOTELS, RESORTS
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Bao Ninh Beach Resort Ha Duong, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3854-866 www.baoninhbeachresort.com.vn Sun Spa Resort My Canh, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3842-999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com TRAVEL
5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com Step back in time to Art Deco's golden age with a stay at La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa, MGallery by Sofitel. Nestled along the fabled Perfume River overlooking the former Imperial Citadel, La Residence is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece with luxurious cultural and culinary experiences. This former governor's residence with 122 guestrooms and suites offers visitors a warm hospitality and a chance to relive the pleasures of a bygone era. Lang Co Beach Resort
Oxalis Adventure Tours Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province. Tel: (052)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn
HUE
(TELEPHONE CODE: 054) Hue is a city on the Perfume River in lowland central Vietnam and was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. Many imperial structures remain. They were named part of UNESCO World Heritage in 1993. Hue is also known for its particular cuisine.
463 Lac Long Quan St., Lang Co Town, Phu Loc Dist, Thua Thien Hue Province Tel: (054) 3873-555 www.langcobeachresort.com.vn Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (054) 3885-461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com
Vedanā Lagoon Resort & Spa Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3681-688 www.vedanalagoon.com RESTAURANT
Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant 110A Le Ngo Cat St, Thuy Xuan Ward, Hue Tel: (054) 3898-220 www.thientamrestaurant.com Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant features a Hue garden house with a simple design and a serene atmosphere. The restaurant serves a variety of Hue vegetarian food, from royal to local dishes, at a reasonable price. The menu has many choices, with prices starting from VND45,000 per dish. The restaurant also serves as an art playground for Hue artists. Guests have chance to get their portraits drawn by the owners at a reasonable price. Vegetarian cooking classes are also available. The restaurant is about 1-2 km from Tu Duc tomb
DANANG
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0511) HOTELS, RESORTS
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Diamond Sea Hotel 232 Vo Nguyen Giap St, Son Tra Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3939-777 www.diamondseahotel.com Grand Mercure Danang Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3797-777 www.accorhotels.com/7821 Green Plaza Hotel 238 Bach Dang St, Danang Tel: (0511) 3223-399 www.greenplazahotel.vn Sitting along the Han River, the four-star hotel boasts elegance and unique accommodations in Vietnamese design and a stunning view of river, mountain and city
Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam 255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777 www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cdv Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0 511) 3968-888 www.vinpearl.com MUSEUM Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0511) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)
HOI AN
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0510) A major port town from the 15th to 19th centuries, Hoi An has well preserved vestiges of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cultures. The buildings are now often used for tailor’s shops. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is a little over 30 km south of Danang, on the central coast. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Anantara Hoi An Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3914-555 www.hoi-an.anantara.com Aurora Riverside Hotel & Villas 242 Cua Dai St, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3924-111 www.aurorahoian.com Hoi An Silk Village 28 Nguyen Tat Thanh Str, Tan An Ward, Hoi An City,Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 392-1144 www.hoiansilkvillage.com
Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3958-888 www.pullman-danang.com
Hotel Royal Hoi An, Mgallery Collection 39 Dao Duy Tu St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3950-777 www.mgallery.com
Alba Spa Hotel 29 Tran Quang Khai St, Hue Tel: (054) 3828-444 www.albavietnam.com
Novotel Danang Premier Han River 36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3929-999 www.novotel-danang-premier.com
Kiman Hotel & Spa 461-463 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3920 430 www.kimanhoianhotel.com
Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa 588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3978-484 www.hueriversideresort.com
Samdi Hotel 203-211 Nguyen Van Linh St, Danang Tel: (0511) 3586-222 www.samdihotel.vn
Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Au Co Road, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3937-777 www.sunrisehoian.vn
HOTELS, RESORTS
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily
Hotel Saigon Morin
30 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054)3823-526 www.morinhotel.com.vn
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DIRECTIONS QUY NHON, NHA TRANG, PHAN THIET Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa
Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An 5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-888 www.river-beachresort.com
Champa Island Nha Trang Resort & Spa 304, 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3568-888 Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel 38 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province. Tel: (058) 3889-999 www.havanahotel.vn Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa
MUSEUM
Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation 10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.
QUY NHON
(TELEPHONE CODE: 056) HOTELS, RESORTS
AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3840-132 www.avanihotels.com/quynhon MUSEUM Quang Trung Museum Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50). Free for children under six (TELEPHONE CODE: 058) On the central coast, Nha Trang is a city originally known for beautiful beaches but these have lately been found to suffer from pollution due to modern life, development and tourism, like other popular resort areas in Vietnam. It has large numbers of foreign tourists, island-hopping, scuba diving, sightseeing and lounging on the beach.
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily
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Alexandre Yersin Museum Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-406
PHAN THIET
(TELEPHONE CODE: 062) Sitting on the coast about 200 km north of Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Thiet is a beach city with many resorts and hotels.
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Aroma Beach Resort & Spa
152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province . Tel: (062) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com VND1,600,000 to VND6,090,000 ($75 to $287) Mom Da Chim Ly Thai To St, Tan Tien, Lagi, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3874-458 www.lazibeachresort.com Muine Ocean Resort & Spa 10 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-616 www.muineoceanresort.com Muine Bay Resort
InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777 www.intercontinental.com
Quater 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3828-288 www.aromabeachresort.com
Michelia Hotel 4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820 www.michelia.vn
Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa
Mường Thanh Grand Nha Trang Hotel 6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3552-468 www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn
HOTELS, RESORTS
Khanh Hoa Salanganes Nest Company 248 Thong Nhat St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-472 yensaokh@yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn www.yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn
HOTELS, RESORTS Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3989-898 Email: info@rivieraresortspa.com www.rivieraresortspa.com
Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa
Diamond Bay Resort & Spa Nguyen Tat Thanh Blvd, Phuoc Ha, Phuoc Dong Dist., Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3711-711 www.diamondbayresort.vn
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily
NHA TRANG
SHOPPING
Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
Ocean Dunes Resort 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3822-393 www.oceandunesresort.com.vn 38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-007 www.bamboovillageresortvn.com
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa
Blue Bay Muine Resort & Spa
Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-598 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com
Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com
5 Quarter, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3748-868 Email: info@sandunesbeach.com www.sandunesbeach.com Suoi Nuoc, Muine, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3836-888 Email: info@bluebaymuineresort.com www.bluebaymuineresort.com
Saigon Mui Ne Resort 56 - 97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-044 www.saigonmuineresort.com.vn
DIRECTIONS DALAT, BINH DUONG, HO CHI MINH CITY Seahorse Resort & Spa
Monet Garden Villa
British Airways 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2933 Cathay Pacific Airways 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3203
Km 11 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3847-507 reservation@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com Sea Links City Resort & Golf Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-088 www.sealinksbeachhotel.com Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3813-000 Email: resa.phanthiet@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia MUSEUM Cham Culture Exhibition Centre Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3641-456. Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday. Free entrance
DALAT
(TELEPHONE CODE: 063) Dalat, founded in 1893, has Frencharchitecture, pine forests and a perpetually cool climate. It is in the southern Central Highlands, about 300 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City. HOTELS
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa
3 Nguyen Du St., Dalat City, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3810-826 www.monetgarden.com.vn
BINH DUONG
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0650) An Lam Saigon River
21/4 Trung St., Vinh Phu Ward, Thuan An Dist., Binh Duong Province Tel: (0650) 3785-555 Email: rsvn.sr@anlam.com www.anlam.com
HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 08) HOSPITALS
Columbia Asia Gia Dinh International Hospital 1 No Trang Long St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3803-0678 FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, Dist.7, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5411-3500 Stamford Skin Centre 254 Dien Bien Phu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-1090 Email: info@stamfordskin.com www.stamfordskin.com
Air France 130 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-0981
Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515 www.dalatedensee.com
Japan Airlines 88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3821-9098 Jetstar Pacific Airlines 112 Hong Ha St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3955-0550 Philippine Airlines 2nd Floor Saigon Royal Building 91 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2105
AIRLINES
Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 reservation-dalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND3,150,000 ($150)
Emirates Airlines 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2939
All Nippon Airways 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-9612 American Airlines 69 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3933-0330 Asiana Airlines 39 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8710, (08) 3829-3038
Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.net Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com Transviet Travel Travel House, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3933-0777 www.transviet.com.vn HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon
Qatar Airways 1-5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3827-3888 Royal Brunei Airlines 787 Tran Hung Dao St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh CityTel: (08) 3924-5100 Singapore Airlines 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-1588 Thai Airways International 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2809 United Airlines Suite 708 Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.Tel: (08) 3823-4755 Vietnam Airlines 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3832-0320 Vietjet Air 8Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-0123 www.vietjetair.com TRAVEL
Asiana Travel Mate 113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-6678 www.atravelmate.com
253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Email: Info@eastingrandSaigon.com www.eastingrandsaigon.com Hotel Majestic 1 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3829-5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner Hai Ba TrungSt. & Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999 www.intercontinental.com/Saigon Kelly Hotel 42-44 Thu Khoa Huan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-3364 www.kellyhotel.com.vn An elegant and cosy hotel with good service. Within walking distance to Ben Thanh market, Independence Palace and several museums. Vietnamese food is served at reasonable prices. Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-3333 www.lottehotel.com
Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn Buffalo Tours operates in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. The Buffalo Tours portfolio caters to all types of tours.
Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
Exotissimo 261/26 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3995-9898 www.exotravel.com
Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2185 www.rexhotelvietnam.com
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DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY, VUNG TAU Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0033 www.renaissance-saigon.com Sofitel Saigon Plaza
BARS & CAFÉS Elle Cafe 45 Ngo Duc Ke St, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6291-8769 Caffe Molinari 5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3910-6903 Email: molinari@vnn.vn www.caffemolinari.com Sax N’ Art Jazz Club 28 Le Loi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8472 www.saxnart.com SHOPS
17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555 Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel 18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688 www.windsorplazahotel.com
RESTAURANTS
Beef No.1 Restaurant 1 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0935891818/ 0919898253 Chit Chat Restaurant Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, 242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3839-7777 www.equatorial.com New daily menus for lunch and dinner buffets, all served in a relaxing atmosphere. Eight live cooking stations with over 60 varieties of mouth-watering domestic and international dishes. A meeting place to enjoy delicious house-made pastries and cakes and a cup of coffee from selected premium blends. Au Lac do Brazil I 238 Pasteur, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3820-7157
Tandoor Restaurant 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Vatel Saigon Bistronomique-Lounge 120 Bis Suong Nguyet Anh St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5404-2220 www.vatelsaigon.com
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Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7962 Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sundays Galerie Quynh Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3824-8284 www.galeriequynh.com Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Doma Vina Co., Ltd 50C Tran Binh Trong St, Ward 5, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3550-0558 www.papercraft.com.vn
Sàn Art 48/7 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6294-7059 www.san-art.org Opening: 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. every. Closed on Sunday and Monday
Dong Gia Enterprise 114 Xuan Thuy St, Thao Dien Ward, Dist.2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6296-0147 www.dong-gia.com Handed by crafts from Vietnam 47 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0908 447 282 IPA Nima 85 Pasteur St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3824-2701 IPA Nima is well-known for its bags.
Tropic Shop 89 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3714 www.ofcvn.com/tropic
Mam Son Restaurant 35 Ton That Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3915-3653
MUSEUMS Ao Dai Museum 206/19/30 Long Thuan St, District 9, Ho Chi Minh City www.baotangaodaivietnam.com Open daily, closed on Monday from 8.30 a.m. until 5.30 p.m. The entry ticket is VND100,000 for adults
Authentique Home 113 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3822-8052 71/1 Mac Thi Buoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-8811 www.authentiquehome.com
Lu's Handmade 240 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Facebook: Lu's Handmade
Lemongrass Restaurant 4 Nguyen Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0496 www.bongsencorporation.com
GALLERIES Artists Long & Ngoc Gallery Grand Hotel (at the lobby), 8 Dong Khoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City TeL: (08) 2246-6839 Mobile: 0908 229 708 Email: ngoclongfineart@yahoo.com
COOKING CLASSES Mint Culinary School 778/45 Nguyen Kiem St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-5500 Email: sales@vca.com.vn www.vca.com.vn Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
Tu Do Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-0966 www.tudogallery.com Opening: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday SIGHTSEEINGS
Notre Dame Cathedral Cong Xa Paris Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Built in 1877, and the Cathedral opened to the public in 1880. The bricks used to build this marvellous structure were shipped from Marseilles. Ben Thanh Market Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City The original market was located on the bank of the Ben Nghe River by the old Gia Dinh Fort. In 1859, when the French invaded Saigon and overtook Gia Dinh Fort, Ben Thanh Market was destroyed. It was rebuilt shortly after and remained standing until it was moved to its present location in 1899. Now, Ben Thanh market is a trade centre and a favourite tourist destination, offering a wide range of Vietnamese handicraft, fresh fruits and local specialities. Chinatown – Cho Lon It was set up at the end of the 18th century when the Minh Dynasty in China was overthrown. Chinatown has many shops and private workshops. The most interesting places are Binh Tay market, Soai Kinh Lam fabric whole-sales market, the street of herbal medicine located on Hai Thuong Lan Ong and Thien Hau Temple on Nguyen Trai Street.
Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays
Fito Museum 41 Hoang Du Khuong S, Ward 12, Dist. 10, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3864-2430 www.fitomuseum.com.vn Open daily from 8.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m. Ticket: VND50,000 The first museum of traditional Vietnamese medicine Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Southern Women Museum 202 Vo Thi Sau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-7130 The History Museum 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-8146 www.baotanglichsuvn.com 8 a.m. - 11.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m. - 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Monday War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.
VUNG TAU
(TELEPHONE CODE: 064) A popular beach resort town for residents of Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau is about 128 km southeast of HCMC. It can be reached either by road or by a 90-minute hydrofoil boat from HCMC. Sitting on a peninsula that sticks out into the East Sea, Vung Tau does not have the most beautiful, or cleanest, beaches in Vietnam but can act as a quick getaway from the buzz of the city.
DIRECTIONS CON DAO, CAN THO, CHAU DOC, PHU QUOC
HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Grand Hotel Vung Tau 2 Nguyen Du St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-888 www.grandhotel.com.vn Muong Thanh Vung Tau Hotel No 09, Thong Nhat St, Ward 1, Vung Tau. Tel: (064) 3835-567 www.vungtau.muongthanh.vn Kieu Anh Hotel 257 Le Hong Phong St, Ward 8, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3584-179 www.kieuanhhotel.vn Palace Hotel 1 Nguyen Trai St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-411 www.palacehotel.com.vn Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3624-748 www.petrosetcohotel.vn Petro House Hotel
63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel : (064) 3852-014 Hotline: 0961.085.869 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn Romeliess Hotel 31 - 33 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3613-366 www.romeliesshotel.com The Coast Hotel
300A Phan Chu Trinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau City Tel: (064) 3627-777 Email: info@thecoasthotelvungtau.com www.thecoasthotelvungtau.com MUSEUM
White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau City Tel: (064) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.
CON DAO
Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist., Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province Tel : (064) 3831-222 www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ con-dao/destination
CAN THO
(TELEPHONE CODE: 0710) Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta, about 170 km southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and acts as the area’s economic, transportation and cultural centre. Sitting on the Mekong River, Can Tho is popular for its nearby floating markets, canals and rivers that can be explored by boat. HOTELS, RESORTS
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Can Tho Resort Cai Khe Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3810-111 www.victoriahotels.asia
PHU QUOC
(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Phu Quoc Island, off the southern tip of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. White-sand beaches, scuba diving around coral reefs or exploring the protected jungle. Accessible by either the Rach Gia hydrofoil boat or a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Modest family-owned bungalows on the beach to fivestar resorts. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Chen Sea Resort & Spa Phu Quoc, Centara Boutique Collection Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3995-895 www.centarahotelsresorts.com
Eden Resort Phu Quoc Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 www.edenresort.com.vn La Veranda Resort
Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 contact@laverandaresorts.com www.laverandaresorts.com MUSEUM Coi Nguon Museum 149 Tran Hung Dao St, Duong dong Town, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3980-206 www.coinguonphuquoc.com
MUSEUM Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St, Tan An Ward, Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3820-955 Open: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.); Saturday and Sunday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.). Closed on Friday. Free admission
CHAU DOC
(TELEPHONE CODE: 076) HOTELS
Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Chau Doc Hotel 1 Le Loi St, Chau Doc Town, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3865-010 resa.chaudoc@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,169,000 ($149) Victoria Nui Sam Lodge Vinh Dong 1, Nui Sam, Chau Doc, An Giang Province. Tel: (076) 3575-888 resa.nuisam@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia MUSEUM
An Giang Museum 11 Ton Duc Thang St, My Binh Ward, Long Xuyen City, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3956-248 Open hour 7a.m. to 11a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Monday Entrance fee: VND42,000 ($2) OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
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CENTRE OF HO C
Palace 1. IIndependence ndependence P alace
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Notre Cathedral 2. N otre Dame C athedral
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Vietnam History 3. V ietnam H istory Museum
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Fine Arts Museum 4. F ine A rts M useum of of Ho Ho Chi Chi Minh Minh City City E4 E4 Ho Chi Minh City 5. H oC hi M inh C ity Museum
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6. Southern Southern Women Women Museum
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7. War War Remnants Remnants Museum
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8. Ben Ben Thanh Thanh Market Market
E3
9. T Tao Park ao Dan P ark
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Post Office 10. P ost O ffice
E2
Zoo oo 11. Z
F2
12. Nha Nha Rong Wharf Wharf
F4
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STREET GUIDE
3 Thang 2..........A2, A3, B2 Alexandre De Rhodes........ ........................................E2 An Duong Vuong....A4, B4 Ba Le Chan....................D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan...... ........................................C2 Ban Co...........................B3 Ben Chuong Duong........... .................................D4, E4 Ben Van Don...........D4, E4
Bui Thi Xuan..................C3 Bui Vien...................C4, D4 Cach Mang Thang Tam..... ......A1, B1, B2, C2, C3, D3 Calmette.........................E4 Cao Thang.....................B3 Chu Manh Trinh.............F2 Co Bac.....................C4, D4 Co Giang............. ...C4, D4 Cong Quynh............C3, C4 De Tham........................D4
Dien Bien Phu..................... A3, B2, C2, D1, D2, E1, F1 Dinh Tien Hoang............E1 Do Quang Dau...............C4 Do Thanh.......................B3 Doan Cong Buu.............C1 Doan Nhu Hai..........E4, F4 Dong Du.........................F3 Dong Khoi................E3, F3 Hai Ba Trung....................... ...........................D1, E2, F3 Hai Trieu.........................F4
Ham Nghi.................E4, F4 Han Thuyen....................E2 Ho Hao Hon...................C4 Ho Tung Mau...........E3, E4 Ho Xuan Huong.............C2 Hoa Hung.......................A2 Hung Vuong...................A4 Huyen Tran Cong Chua..... ........................................D3 Huynh Thuc Khang........E3 Huynh Tinh Cua.............D1 Ky Con.....................D4, E4
Ky Dong...................B2, C1 Le Duan...................E2, F2 Le Hong Phong.................. ...........................A2, A3, A4 Le Lai.......................C3, D3 Le Loi..............................E3 Le Quy Don....................D2 Le Thanh Ton...................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Le Thi Hong Gam............... .................................D4, E4 Le Thi Rieng............C3, D3
Le Van Sy.......................B1 Luong Huu Khanh.........C3 Ly Chinh Thang.......C1, C2 Ly Thai To......................A3 Ly Tu Trong......................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Ly Van Phuc...................E1 Mac Dinh Chi...........E1, E2 Mac Thi Buoi..................F3 Mai Thi Luu..............E1, F1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia............ ...................C1, D1, D2, D3
N N N N .. N N .. N .. N N
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CHI MINH CITY D
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6 4 11 11
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Ngo Duc Ke....................F3 Ngo Thoi Nhiem ....C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam.................F2 Nguyen Binh Khiem.............. .....................................F1, F2 Nguyen Cau...................D1 Nguyen Cong Tru............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ ......B3, C2, C3, D2, E1, F1 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Hue.............E3, F3
Nguyen Khac Nhu.............. .................................C4, D4 Nam Quoc Cang.....C3, C4 Nguyen Phi Khanh.........E1 Nguyen Sieu...................F3 Nguyen Son Tra................. .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Tat Thanh..........F4 Nguyen Thai Binh............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc....D3, D4 Nguyen Thanh Y............E1
Nguyen Thi Dieu............C2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai........ .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat........... .................................A3, B3 Nguyen Thong........B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien........ .................................B2, C3 Nguyen Trai.............B4, C4 Nguyen Trung Ngan......F2 Nguyen Trung Truc........E3 Nguyen Truong To.........E4
Nguyen Van Cu..............B4 Nguyen Van Thu......E1, F1 Pasteur................................ ...............D1, D2, E2, E3,E4 Pham Ngoc Thach.........D1 Pham Ngu Lao........C4, D4 Pham Viet Chanh...........B3 Phan Ke Binh..........E1, E2 Pho Duc Chinh...............E4 Phung Khac Khoan.......E2 Suong Nguyet Anh........C3 Thach Thi Thanh.....D1, E1
Thai Van Lung................F3 Thi Sach.........................F3 Thu Khoa Huan.......D3, E3 To Hien Thanh................A1 Ton That Dam..........E3, E4 Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Binh Trong......A3, A4 Tran Cao Van.................E2 Tran Dinh Xu...........B4, C4 Tran Hung Dao.......C4, D4 Tran Minh Quyen...........A3 Tran Nhan Tong.......A3, A4
Tran Phu.........................A4 Tran Quang Dieu...........B1 Tran Quang Khai.....D1, E1 Tran Quoc Thao......C1, D2 Tran Quoc Toan......C1, D1 Truong Dinh............C1, C2 Tu Xuong.......................C2 Vinh Vien........................A3 Vo Thi Sau........C2, D1, E1 Vo Van Tan..............C3, B3 Vuon Chuoi..............B2, B3 Yersin..............................D4
WHAT THE PAPER SAY
Scarce water resources threaten Phu Quoc tourism Tuoi Tre News, 29 September
Vietnam’s Phu Quoc Island is facing overwhelming growth in local tourism against the backdrop of a rapid decline in clean water. The island’s water supply is primarily stored in the Duong Dong Reservoir, which has a capacity of five million cubic metres, and in local lakes and streams, thanks to thick vegetation and high rainfall. A large number of resorts and hotels have been constructed on the island at the expense of its diminishing fresh water resources. Underground water resources have been in rising demand for the daily life and cultivation activities of local islanders, as well as for the operation of resorts and hotels.
Over 19,000 jobs lost to Formosa mass fish deaths Tuoi Tre News, 30 September
Over 19,000 Vietnamese have lost their jobs as a result of the environmental disaster caused by the Vietnamese steel business Formosa Plastics Group earlier this year. The General Statistics Office of Vietnam reported that over 22,700 households had their lives and production impacted by the incident and its aftermath. More than 24,400 local labourers, mainly working in aquaculture, salt production, and hospitality, lost the stability of their previous livelihood. About 19,000 others became unemployed while 5,000 others were forced to find a new profession in order to earn a living.
Cancer kills 200 in Vietnam every day Tuoi Tre News, 7 October
Around 200 Vietnamese die daily from cancer, while 130,000 new patients are diagnosed annually with the disease.
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Cancer results in 70,000 deaths in Vietnam per year. Lung cancer is one of the most common forms of the disease in Vietnam and the world as a whole. More than 70 percent Vietnamese with cancer seek treatment in hospital at late stages, which has dramatic negative effects on their recovery ability and survival rates. Proportion of patients internationally who fully recover from cancer is 80 percent, but in Vietnam the rate is only 33 percent for men and 40 percent for women. Vietnam cancer rates are ranked at 78th out of 172 countries and territories, according to a 2014 survey by the WHO Global Cancer Countries.
since the beginning of the year, mostly due to low vaccination rates in dogs and cats. The country reported 49 human rabies deaths in the first nine months in 20 provinces and cities, according to the Preventive Health Department. Last year, there were 78 rabies deaths. Only 2.9 million of the country’s estimated eight million dogs have been vaccinated. On average, some 400,000 people are bitten each year by cats and dogs. The country has been making efforts to reduce dog bite incidents and fatalities in recent years. By increasing the number of vaccinated animals, it aims to eliminate rabies by 2020.
Vietnam importing Chinese, Thai fruit Tuoi Tre News, 10 October
Saigon dooms hundreds of old villas to demolition e.vnexpress.net, 25 September
Vietnam has spent more than half a billion U.S. dollars importing fruit in the first eight months of this year, most of which come from China and Thailand. Vietnam’s fruit exports fetched more than $1 billion in the Jan-Aug period, but imports also rose 36.9 percent year on year to $529 million, according to a report by the General Department of Vietnam Customs. The Southeast Asian country bought fruit from 12 markets, with Thailand and China occupying the top spots with significant increases in import volumes in the year to August. Vietnam imported $218.8 million worth of fruit and vegetables from Thailand in the eight-month period, a 62.4 percent rise on a year earlier, and $125.2 million, up 27.5 percent year on year, from China.
The Architecture Research Centre of Ho Chi Minh City maintains that half of the town’s pre-1975 villas have already been torn down, leaving roughly 650 historical structures in a kind of limbo. On Nguyen Dinh Chieu Street, for example, 29 of 53 villas have disappeared. Likewise, half of Hai Ba Trung Street’s 40 villas now exist only in photographs. The edict requiring developers to submit to an administrative review by the city’s mayor before tearing down any such building hasn’t had a noticeable impact. Meanwhile, the Ho Chi Minh City Institute for Development Studies has submitted a draft regulation aimed at classifying old villas for preservation purposes.
Taxi explosion kills 2 in Quang Ninh Viet Nam News, 3 October
Hanoi lakes to be checked following massive fish die-off
Two people were killed when a taxi suddenly exploded this afternoon on a street in northeastern Quang Ninh Province. Witnesses said the taxi driver and a motorbike rider travelling in the same direction also died in the explosion. The two vehicles were completely destroyed. Some glass doors of surrounding residents’ houses were broken due to the impact of the blast. Fire-fighters and police personnel were dispatched to put out the fire and ensure traffic moved smoothly. A report said the passenger committed suicide with a bomb because of his HIV infection.
49 killed by rabies in 2016 Viet Nam News, 5 October
Dozens of people have died of rabies
OCTOBER-NOVEMBER 2016
e.vnexpress.net, 25 September Authorities in Hanoi have called for the city’s lakes to be checked after tons of fish were found dead in West Lake. The city mayor asked heads of the city’s related departments, districts and urban environment and sewage firms to increase the monitoring and management of all the lakes in the capital. Authorities were also asked to raise local awareness about protecting the environment, especially in the city’s lakes. The directive came after dozens of tons of fish washed up dead in West Lake in recent days, which the municipal government said was likely caused by a lack of oxygen. West Lake is a large freshwater lake located in the centre of Hanoi. n
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