Vietnam heritage Aug-Sep 2014

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7 7:4 :4 A AUG-SEP UG-SEP 2014 2014

Eating the moon p.8

“The Soul of Vietnam”

Vietnam iet National Heritage Day, Dayy, 23 November 2014, the Vietnam Vietnam On the occasion of the 10th Vietnam Heritage Photo Awards Awards is launched. launch Vietnam for publiThe ccompetition ompetition seeks out photos about the natural and cultural heritage of Vietnam publiVietnam Heritage magazine, website www.vietnamheritage.com.vn, cation on the Vietnam www.vietnamheritage.com.vn, iOS applicaapplication. 20 exhibitions of selected works from the contest will be held in over 10 cities.

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CONTENT

No 7, Vol.4, August-September 2014

COVER STORY Holidays 8 Eating the moon Agriculture

12 Where the buffalo roam

18

Memoir

16 Putting away childish things Photography

18 The pursuit of beauty Martial Arts

20 Closed fist, open palm Travel

22 Robinson Crusoe redux 24 Paradise on Jade Island

Restaurant advertorial

26 Choice American beef to be relished at WMC Group restaurants Hotel advertorial

12 20

22

24

26

28 First by name, first by nature 30 Comfort and sublime pleasure at Galina Hotel and Spa

32 What the papers say 34 Events

38 Value for money 42 Buyable

43 Directions 58 Laid back

Cover photograph: Mid-Autumn Festival, Ho Chi Minh City, 2013. Photo: Nguyen Xuan Thang Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

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VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

•5

Ngo Son Village, Chu Dang Ya Commune, Chu Pah Dist., Pleiku, Gia Lai Province, located at the end of Bien Ho, the largest fresh water lake in Pleiku.

Photo: Nguyen Linh Vinh Quoc

HOLIDAYS

Eating the moon

E

Mid-Autumn celebrations bring sweet remembrances

Above: Mid-Autumn Festival in Bac Lieu Province.

Photo: Dang Ke Cuong

Opposite above: Making lanterns in Hanoi.

Photo: Nguyen Ba Ngoc

Opposite below: Mid-Autumn Festival in Ho Chi Minh City.

Photo: Ngo Thi Thu Ba

very year, by the end of the seventh lunar month, Saigon’s bustling sidewalks get even busier with kiosks selling mid-Autumn cakes in typical colourful wrapping and packaging. Lanterns of all sizes and shapes also add to the city’s overall vibrancy. At the same time, in many places of Vietnam’s most populous city, groups of youngsters perform the unicorn dance to the resounding beats of drums and gongs. These are the sounds and colours of most of cities and villages of Vietnam at this time of the year. It all makes Vietnamese feel

8 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

some nostalgia for their childhood, including me.

Early in the eighth lunar month, the sickle-shaped new moon cast its dim light on poor villages without a single electric bulb. I eagerly began working on my lantern with coloured paper, bamboo splints, banana fibres and a candle. Even food was scarce at the time, but we village kids tried by every means possible to have a self-made simple and awkward lantern.

When the sky darkened, we fussily called each other and marched together, a lantern in everyone’s hand, around the village of a few hundred mud houses with straw roofs.

I vividly remember nearly 50 lanterns casting red and yellow

BY DANG KHOA

lights and swinging with each young step along the village’s small zigzagging roads. There was always some little one crying because of having slipped and destroyed their lantern.

Around the 10th, we all gathered to make a unicorn head with bamboo splints, coloured paper and copper wire. We used some banana leaves to make the body and tail.

Our mixed procession of a unicorn, percussion instruments and lanterns went round and round in the village, heating up the quiet village life and lighting up the adults’ smiles.

On mid-Autumn (the middle of the 8th lunar month) night, we all came to the village temple. There was a gala, organized by the village youth. Our show was always the

HOLIDAYS centre piece, bright and exuberant, after which, each of us was rewarded with a handful of candies. It was the most blissful treat during that time of destitution, and we showed our gratitude with shouts and cries. After the show we continued our dancing procession till late at the night.

At that time, my village was my whole world, and I was so proud that only my village had mid-Autumn celebration. Later I learned that it is celebrated in many Asian countries. I also learned that in many places, it is a festive time, not only for children, but also for adults to compose poems, to contemplate the moon, to worship the moon god, and to make sweets for each other.

In my teenage years, I learned many other interesting facts about this festival. For example, in the past, people used to watch the moon on this night not only as a refined pastime, but also to guess about the harvest, the weather, or the nation’s fortune by the colour of the moon. Yellow meant a good silk harvest; blue or green meant bad weather; and bright orange meant prosperity for the country. I also learned many beautiful pieces of poetry and music about the festival.

As mid-Autumn is in everybody’s heart, in their spiritual life and literature, I got curious about its origin.

There are many legends related to the Vietnamese and Chinese origin of this festival, but the most famous one is, perhaps, that of Tang Ming Huang’s visit to the moon.

The story goes, in that mid-Autumn night, while having a stroll in his garden and enjoying the moonlight, the Emperor met an angel disguised as an old man with snowwhite hair and a beard.

The angel drew a rainbow to take the Emperor to the moon. When he returned to the world, missing the mythical scenes on the moon, the Emperor decreed that his folk had to celebrate mid-Autumn every year with lanterns and parties.

In 1989, I was 18. Vietnamese economy began to thrive. I saw changes in the mid-Autumn celebration too. The lanterns and unicorns of the village kids were bigger, more diverse, and made of better materials.

10 years later, it was unrecognizable. Kids all over the country don’t make lanterns and unicorns anymore; their parents buy it all for them. Candles are replaced with battery-fuelled lights. The lanterns are more diversified in designs, colours and materials. Some local governments even make gigantic lanterns and invite thousands of children to celebrate together.

Nowadays, the adults plan the celebration, from giftbuying to house decoration, and buy the lantern to hang in the house instead of letting the kids carry it.

Some even take the occasion to do charity work, such as buying lanterns and sweets for children in poor remote places.

The most boisterous activity of the adults is to give Mid-Autumn sweets as present; businesses and government organizations give it to their clients, their employees, students give it to their teachers, people give it to their parents, brothers and sisters, friends and lovers.

Capitalizing on this demand, in recent years, many food companies compete in making mid-Autumn sweet cakes. The most famous brands are Kinh Do and Dong Khanh.

With houses full of these gifts, people treat their guests with mid-Autumn sweets and tea, and together they recall the mid-Autumns of times long past. Old people say that using mid-Autumn sweets as gift used to be an old custom in our culture, but during the difficult times, we just couldn’t follow it.

Through research, I learned that MidAutumn sweets are soaked with spirituality.

A typical folk tale goes that once upon a time, on this day every year, people used to sacrifice fruits, flowers and a cake in the form of the moon to the Moon God. Because the cake was made in the middle of autumn, it was called mid-Autumn cake. And after this sacred ritual, the whole family gathered to enjoy the cake with tea, to converse and enjoy the moon light. So the cake was also called the cake of family unity.n

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HOLIDAYS

Above and below: Lantern parade in Mid-Autumn Festival 2012, in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province, recognized as the biggest Mid-Autumn Festival in Vietnam by the Vietnam Guinness Book of Records. Photos: Do Huu Tuan 10 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

AGRICULTURE

Where the buffalo roam Above: Flood season in Tan Hong Dist., Dong Thap Province, in the Mekong Delta.

Photo: Nguyen Ba Lam

Opposite: A young herdsman following buffalo herds over the regions.

Photo: Binh Nguyen

W

hen I inquired of many old peasants and cultural scholars of the Southwest regarding the season for letting the water buffalo roam in ‘Huong Rung Ca Mau’, many shook their heads and said that it no longer happens because mechanization has penetrated all the way to the most remote fields.

Some longingly recalled im-

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BY BINH NGUYEN

ages of the native homeland that they thought had been lost. Yet, I still believed that those wondrous images had yet to vanish.

For the peasants of the Southwest, the relationship between man and buffalo is one that resonates with parity and mutual empathy as in the familiar folk ditty ‘Oh water buffalo, we say to you…’

Work in the fields is strenuous, ‘giving up one’s face to the earth

and back to the sky.’ Yet from this premise bears forth the vital, untrammelled spirit of the peasants in this region throughout their reclamation of the most fecund wild lands, among which the buffalo walk in virtual unison with the peasants and share with them all endeavours.

Throughout the year, ploughing and harrowing bring in bowls of rice and articles of clothing for so many people. The merit of the water buffalos is repaid by letting them loose to roam for the four months during which the floods inundate the fields. The water buffalo, having nothing to eat, are emaciated and look pitiful. People flee the flooded harvest fields in search of sources of food for the buffalos and, at the same time, allow the buffalos to rest and regain their strength as they wait for

AGRICULTURE

the water to recede.

The late writer Son Nam, who authored the notes ‘The Season for Letting the Water Buffalo Roam’ (‘Mua len trau’) in the Native Forested Lands of Ca Mau while he was still with us in the world, fretfully recalled the time when he was a consultant for the film crew of The Season for Letting the Water Buffalo Roam (2003), directed by Nguyen Vo Nghiem Minh.

In order to create an authentic atmosphere for the film, Director Nguyen Vo Nghiem Minh travelled throughout the lowlands, but a scene of free-range buffalo was nowhere to be found. Thus, he had to rent many herds of buffalo and gather them together for the film.

On my expedition this year to make a documentary film about the flood season, I resolved to find the authentic roaming buffalo. I looked for the road up to the Thuong Phuoc border crossing, for many people had related that ‘luckily, over in Cambodia people still let the buffalo roam.’

Once at sunset, a farmer at Ut Goc Bridge suddenly remembered, ‘Deep in the fields of Thuong Thoi Tien, a communce of Dong Thap Province, I hear that the buffalo flock in great numbers. This year, there’s been a great deal of flooding, after all.’ Thus, I plodded there through the mud.

My heart seemed to stop as a herd of easily up to a hundred buffalo appeared before my eyes, wandering in droves amongst the frontier fields. These herds of buffalo were led there from the Thuong Phuong border crossing just the day before.

Mr Nam Di, an old farmer well-known in the region’s trade, smirked when he learned that I had been searching for the buffalo for almost the entire previous week, ‘How could they ever be lost, kid? Just go deep into the forest and you’ll run right into them. This affair could go on for another hundred years without ever disappearing.

It’s just that it’s gone down, because people nowadays prefer to use machinery. This year the floods came on quickly, so the buffalo

got stuck in many places and not all of them have been able to come and flock together.

If they had come in full droves, then this herd would consist of several hundred buffalos.’

The trade of letting the buffalo free to roam is peculiar in that, once you are involved with it, you are attached for life, and then so on from one generation to the next—just as Mr Nam Di and Bay Duc have let the buffalo wander the marshlands of Hong Ngu, Tan Chau, and Tan Hong, etc. for over fifty years. The herdsmen of the fields there, at just 10-12 years of age, are already well-seasoned from having followed the buffalo herds all over the region. It’s sort of a pity in that, for their love of the buffalo and passion for a trade passed on from father to son, they all suffer from a lack of education.

The youngster Tinh, who is twelve years old and the head of a herd of five water buffalo, ingenuously said to me, ‘I could study forever but to no avail, uncle. My teacher says that I’m as doltish as a buffalo. He’s lll

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

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AGRICULTURE

surely right, since I only like to go wandering with the buffalo.’

As for Mr Ba Thien, who for almost twenty years has followed along with the unbridled buffalo, he spoke jovially, ‘Our love for our wives pales before our love of the buffalo. When the buffalo sleep, we must stoke thatch to give off smoke and cast mosquito nets for the buffalo to lay and rest so as to avoid the mosquitoes. The buffalo mosquitos in these parts are as big as flies and they suck the buffalos’ blood all night, afflicting them with sickliness. Cuddle my wife at home for two days and I’m already bored, but after wandering off for three to four months on end, I still don’t want to go back home.’

That evening Nam Di and Bay Duc’s group of roaming buffalo herdsmen enjoyed something of a small pleasure: They were hired to

lll

Clockwise from top left: Flood season in Tan Hong Dist., Dong Thap Province; Flood season in Tri Ton Dist., An Giang Province. Photos: Nguyen Ba Lam; An buffalo heard fleeing the flooded harvest fields for finding the food from Thuong Phuoc border, Dong Thap Province; A young herdsman following buffalo herds. Photos: Binh Nguyen

14 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

haul paddy. Compensation for each of their labours was just a little over VND100,000. That the pay was a little less than the price of renting a harvester to pound together didn’t matter. There were fields on which to come and go, fish, and bottles of spirits as well as the happiness of being with friends once the buffalo herd was well-fed on straw and warm from paddy.

I noticed a woman all alone away from a group of male roaming buffalo herders who were tippling by an embankment. She was the solitary female among this band of roaming buffalo herdsmen. Her name was Nguyen Thi Em. The group often teased her as ‘Littlest Sister’ or ‘Em the Littlest’ (her name means sister), despite her being the most senior person in the band of roaming buffalo herdsmen.

Ms ‘Littlest Em’ has gone to care for the water buffalo since she was just five years old. Today, she is sixty. She said that her profession was passed down from her paternal grandfather to her father and then from her father to her, since her family lacked sons.

Having bound her life to the water buffalo for over half a century, Ms Em understands the character and habits of each buffalo as if it were her own son, despite never having been an actual mother. She knows how the buffalo that takes off is fond of sleeping with mosquito nets and the way the discomfited horned one clashes horns with other males in struggles for females. Ms Em is masterfully versed in all their whims and quirks. When other herders who let water buffalo roam free fall ill, they have to entrust

AGRICULTURE their buffalos to someone else who goes and lets them wander, but Ms Em has never for even a single day entrusted her water buffalos to anyone else.

Ms Em said, ‘My father said that caring for the water buffalo is a profession and that, if I didn’t love the buffalo, then I shouldn’t take up the trade. Thus, I never hand over my buffalo to anyone else so that they may go and roam free. Even to faraway fields we go, attending to the buffalo with our own hands. Whenever I sell a water buffalo, I weep all day as if I had sold my own child.’

She was leading along a herd of four water buffalos with a band of roaming buffalo herdsmen to a certain field, their third of the flood season. At night, she slept on the earthen mounds and in the dirt as do hardy herdsman because, for her, the water buffalo meant everything, her assets and her family.

Not only Ms Em, but also nearly all the roaming water buffalo herders name the buffalos the way people out on the streets name their dogs and cats. They come up with names from whatever seems interest-

ing to them like ‘Flyer,’ ‘Vehicle,’ and ‘Lightweight’; or based on however they see the buffalos’ appearance like ‘Portly,’ ‘Fatty,’ ‘Fretful Horn,’ ‘Flat Horn’ ‘Knotty Horn’; and for those keen on Chinese chess, they take the names of their buffalo from all sorts of chess pieces like ‘General,’ ‘Elephant,’ ‘Scholar,’ ‘Chariot,’ ‘Canon,’ and ‘Horse.’

Only after watching the scene of the boys Tinh, Toan, and Sao galloping along, racing against one another on the backs of the water buffalo, and then bathing them and picking their ticks amidst the wetland fields did I realize why youths are so drawn to the buffalo trade. Just shout their names loudly, and the buffalos obediently come running towards their masters. As the sun sets, the youths are quick with their hands and feet, some lighting straw while others spread mosquito nets for the buffalo in a practiced manner.

When they come to the age of nine or ten, the boys are allowed by their parents to become heads of their own buffalo herds— with each buffalo valued at three to four mil-

lion dong—so that they may tirelessly seek faraway fields for several months before returning. It is only thus that we come to understand that the business of letting the water buffalo roam free is very arduous and necessitates expertise.

That evening, an additional flock of buffalo came running from the floods at the border to join the band of herdsmen along with rich tales of sickly and well-fed buffalos that had been all over the fields. Ms Em still sat on the back of a water buffalo like a cavalier, while the youths led the buffalos that were full on straw out to the flooded fields to bathe.

Images of Uncle Tu Dinh and the little boy Nhi in the writer Son Nam’s piece ‘The Season for Letting the Water Buffalo Roam’ and the untrammelled peasants of the Southwest region back in the days during the reclamation of these regional lands came rushing into me that evening, and I had faith that the season for letting the water buffalo roam free could never vanish from these lands.n

MEMOIR

Putting away childish things

I

BY NGUYEN QUANG THIEU*

A Hanoi man recalls ghost stories and a haunted tree often come back to my village, my childhood’s world, full of mysteries. I come back, sit down and hope that the old feelings and visions will come back too; to scare me vaguely, to seduce me wildly, and make me believe that miracles can happen in this world.

My village is not far from Hanoi, just an hour’s bus ride.

That’s why I often come here on holidays. I stay up late at night, sometimes until two or three o’clock in the morning. During those times, I am an ancient man from a place far away, hardly known to anyone. The village is deep asleep. Just a breeze playing with the leaves in the garden and rare barks of the sleepy dogs. I am alone in the whole world with its infinite darkness and felt so uncertain.

On summer nights, alone in the garden, listening to a cricket singing in a bush nearby, I often 16 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

think about my grandma and her ghost stories. But now, after over 40 years, the wild fright and excitement about the ghosts hiding in the village trees are gone. I feel so much sadder by this lack of fear. I realize my alluring, dreamy childhood world, full of contrast, is fading away. The naiveté and curiosity are leaving my soul.

When those are gone, the light in one’s soul will also be gone. The person is left only with the rough and nasty reason that he mistakes for maturity and wisdom.

The mysterious ghost stories my grandma told me during my childhood are the biggest heritage she left me. In those times, though the fear they invoked in me made my hair stand up, and made me wet myself because I didn’t dare to leave her warm embrace, I asked for more every night. Some stories were told many times, but I always felt the same palpitation that squeezed my heart and made me shrivel up.

When I was ten, my village hired a man from a neighbouring village, who used to climb trees to cut branches or to gather fruits and cut excessive branches of the huge cotton tree at the edge of the village to prepare for the storm season. The man climbed to the top of the tree and looked down.

And then it happened.

He held on to the tree top and howled in horror. He couldn’t climb down. It took our villagers and his relatives half a day to bring him down. Then he fell into a coma. He was feverish for days. In delirium, he held his pillow tightly and howled as though he were still on the tree top. The fever was gone later but he never came to his senses again. He became mad. My fellow villagers said that he was possessed by the cotton tree ghost.

Sometimes, I saw him walk naked

past my village. He walked and danced, mumbling something unintelligible.

Since then, we didn’t dare to play around the cotton tree anymore. Every time we had to go past it, we counted to three and ran as fast as we could. The stories about the cotton tree ghost became much more scary and mysterious after the climbing man had gone mad. At nights, people would hear whispers in the canopy. Later on, grown up, I know that it was just the wind playing in the leaves.

A few days ago, a friend of mine wanted to plant a Chinese fig tree.

It took him a lot of time and effort to find one. But then, he suddenly decided not to bring it home. He said this tree was a favourite habitat for ghosts. That was his real reason not to plant it near the house.

I, too, have heard stories about Chinese fig tree ghosts since my childhood from my grandma and other villagers. My grandma said that she heard them screeching on a fig tree and an incredible stench pervaded. In those days, I used to see in my dreams that the fig tree ghosts chased me so closely that my legs were twisted. And each time, frozen in horror, I clung to my grandma, my tongue sticky, ‘Grandma, the fig tree ghosts chase me.’ Without her warm arms and voice that smelled of betel, I would have gone mad with fear.

Yet, waking up the next morning, I came down to the family pond and looked toward the fig tree in an abandoned garden. Its ripe fruits hung invitingly. During the day, their yellow colour and aroma allured me. At nights, the imagined ghosts of the tree pulled me into an evil whirlpool. I asked my grandma, how can the fruits, so aromatic, host ghosts? She said, because the ghosts love that smell.

MEMOIR In past times, villages were enshrouded in an ephemeral atmosphere. It was always dark inside low mud houses with straw roofs.

There was no electricity. After dinner, people extinguished their lamps to save kerosene. After that, they did everything by touch.

There were big gardens everywhere, full of trees and bushes. All of that created a nightly world full of scary hallucinations.

Later, I learned that the aroma of the fig fruits attracts nocturnal creatures. Bats come in large, black flocks to feed on the figs. They beat their wings unceremoniously in the canopy and thus spread the stench. They fight for the ripe fruits and screech. Rats also climb up to eat these fruits. They often cling onto each other and make a big black bunch hanging on the branches. The ‘evil’ aroma of the figs mixed with the stench of the bats, their wing beats and their screeching make the night full of unperceivable horror.

Now I am a grownup. At night, the village is showered with bright electric light. Youngsters sing in a karaoke shop nearby. People shout, watching a Premier League match… all that has swept away the old-time mysteries. For myself, it is all irrevocably, regrettably gone, like a lost world. That was the inner world of my soul, a world of secrets that I dreamt to discover.

In the book of Australian short stories, ‘Dingo’, that I translated many years ago, there was a story about a young boy with a mysterious world. He was told a story about a flute player and walking hills. Every day, at sunset, he stood by a window to count the hills heaving in front of him. He could never count exactly the number of hills. So he believed that the hills were walking so that he could not

count them. Later he fell into a sleep and dreamt of walking hills.

But one day, a big change happened in his life. He became a young man. The hills stopped walking. The young man counted day after day, and there were always 9 hills. He cried. He had become a man, and his strange dreams together with the world full of mysteries had gone forever from his life.

And I am now in the same sit-

uation, like the boy in the story.

The pure and subtle beauty and the secrets of this life seem to have forgotten me. I was pulled into the whirlpool of practical life with too much scrambling and anxiety, too much envy and suspicion, too much apathy and calculation.

That’s why I often come back to my village; my childhood’s world, full of mysteries.n *Mr Nguyen Quang Thieu is a well-known poet and writer

Illustration by Phan Ngoc Vinh

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PHOTOGRAPHY

The pursuit of beauty

S

Photographer Nguyen Manh Dan at young age

aigon’s most hardcore photographers consider him a ‘living archive’, ‘perennial tree’ of Vietnamese photographic art, the ‘king of landscape photography’, and a recorder of many historical events.

That respect urged me to spend a lot of effort to find his residence on Dien Bien Phu Street, in District 10 of Saigon.

Despite his age (89) and a stroke he suffered in 2012, he talked with great passion, enthusiasm and clarity about the art of photography when I touched on the topic.

Nguyen Manh Dan was born in 1925 in Nam Dinh, 100km from Hanoi. Growing up in a peasant family, he managed to study up to the middle school level. In 1945, he moved to Hanoi to work for a photo shop.

Puffing his cigarette deeply, the silver-hair-and-bearded old man recalls, ‘There were just a few photo

18 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

shops in Hanoi at the time. Most of them used wooden cover cameras, and sulphur in a metal plate as flash.

The photographer had to be quick to burn the sulphur and push the button at the same time.’

In 1948, robustly skilled and speaking French, he was hired by the French newspaper ‘Indochine Sud-Est Asiatique’ as a photographer. ‘I was working in the shop. A Frenchman walked in and asked for a photographer who spoke French.

I stood up. The Frenchman looked at me from head to toe and said, ‘come to the editorial office tomorrow for probation.’ I was so stunned and happy. There were very few Vietnamese photographers working for the French at the time, so I was paid a lot of respect wherever I went.’

Since then, with a modern German Rolleiflex, Manh Dan scoured all the ins and outs of Hanoi and the Northern provinces. He was even present at some bloody battles between the French and the Viet Minh. Single-use magnesium flash was used at the time, so after frequent takes, his fingers were almost burnt changing the flash light. At nights he was back to the office to develop the film.

In 1950 the young talented news photographer was sent to Saigon.

He was thrilled to discover the ‘Pearl of the Orient’ and Southern provinces.

By 1954, having gained recognition in the new land, he moved his family to Saigon. That was when he bought his first camera. In 1958,

BY DANG KHOA

four years after the Americans replaced the French in the South, he quit his job.

After a decade as a news photographer, he was famous for many photographs published in French newspapers, including the famous Paris Match.

A French editor advised him to try to ‘capture the beauty of Vietnam’. To do that, he first opened Manh Dan photo shop to earn a living. ‘In Saigon, among the shops of those times, only my shop has survived until now,’ he asserted.

His fame lured customers to Manh Dan photo shop. After a few years, he had enough money to buy the latest equipment and a car. He started roaming around chasing visions. He was one of the first Vietnamese to practice artistic photography.

‘Sometimes I got a hunch at midnight and drove to Lam Dong, Nha Trang or Danang to take pictures,’ he related.

‘You were such an inspired soul,’ I exclaimed. The archive of life and profession just smiled brightly and philosophized, ‘Being free to create visions, without having to comply with petty requirements of the editorial office, my passion and skills soared. Each good picture made me immensely blissful.’

In 1975 the Americans withdrew.

Vietnam was reunified and entered a period of economic meltdown.

Facing financial difficulties like any other, Manh Dan the photographer never betrayed his passion. On

every trip, he had to take with him food supplies and utensils to cook for himself.

In 1988, after 30 years of ‘capturing the beauty of Vietnam’, he decided to put down his camera.

‘40 years of practicing news and artistic photography, I have ploughed the whole country, from cities, mountains to islands far out in the sea, from Ban Gioc water fall the Northernmost to the Tho Chu Islands the Southernmost. And I have also toured the whole world.’

That’s how he took countless pictures; landscapes and portraits, war and peace.

‘Do you still have them?’ I asked. ‘When I worked for the news, I had to submit all, including the negatives. Later I was moving too much, partly because of war, and many were lost. Now I still keep some, but not much,’ he said.

From what was left, he published in five volumes: Vietnam in fire, 1969 (wartime pictures); Pictures of Vietnamese economy, 1974; Vietnam my native land, 1996; Scenes of Vietnam, 2003; and The land of the Viet, 2011.

Turning pages of his ‘The land of the Viet’, I saw many black and white lively images of long- gone nature and life: a corner in a pristine forest with big rough tree trunks, antique streets, peasants in palm leaf rain coats and old people with black lacquered teeth.

Photographer Manh Dan participated in many international exhibitions. He was a member of many associations such as VNPS, RPS, PSA, HOPA, and VAPA . . . and had been for a long time a member of the Art Committee of the Vietnam Association of Art Photography.

He won hundreds of international prizes. Between 1959 and 1963 he brought home over 70 medals. He has no domestic prize,

‘because I had always been a member of the jury, I was not allowed to submit my own works.’

The famous photographer Nguyen Cao Dam of the period 1950-1975 once remarked, ‘Nguyen Manh Dan is the king of landscape photography.’ Following some old sources, the international photographer community called him ‘Mr Pictorial.’

During 25 years since the time he stopped wandering and vision hunting, Manh Dan received numerous western guests, mostly French. ‘They think I have a lot of precious materials and come to ask for it.’

‘Has photography changed since then?’ I asked. ‘The pictures now are digital and much better processed. But they are not real.

The feeling is not as real and deep as it used to be,’ he remarked.

After a deep silent contemplation, he said, ‘Perhaps the artist’s senses were sharper and stronger during the war, so they reached those depths, unattainable in the time of peace.’

Manh Dan has six sons and three daughters, and all have followed his footsteps. One of them, Mr Manh Sinh, is currently the Chair of the Art Committee of the Association of Art Photography of Ho Chi Minh City. Some of his grandchildren also have started following his trade.

‘What would you like to share with your descendants and today’s photographers?’ I hinted.

Taking a long deep puff with his third cigarette, the photographer-aestheticist said slowly, ‘In whatever genre you work, give it all you have, or you won’t have it at all.

Don’t spend too much time and effort chasing fame, success and prizes. It will plane away your imagination. Once you have chosen a trade, pay your dues.’n

MARTIAL ARTS

Closed fist, open palm

I

BY JONATHAN BAR-ON

Nam Chon temple fuses the mystical with the martial

Above and opposite: Practising martial art of Nam Huynh Dao

magine for a moment: In a courtyard stand rows of warriors, their arms extended.

Despite the noise from the street, it is quiet, as though a solemn ritual has begun. You de-

20 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

tect a small movement of their fingers. Then the hands begin to move in slow rotating motions.

Soon you notice the ripple of shoulder muscles. Each muscle system is being slowly and thoroughly exercised.

At a signal from the master, the group explodes with kicks and leaps and blocks. The iron rings on their arms clink in unison like temple bells. Young men leap high in the air. Twirling like dervishes, their feet break the heads of invisible opponents. Then, row after row, they sweep across the courtyard, crouching low and whirling round and round, their legs extended like lawnmower blades mowing down an opposing army.

Photo: Jonathan Bar-On

They do not stop even when driving rain blankets the area.

Although they will be formidable warriors if needed to defend Vietnam, these students are taught first the value of their art in maintaining good health and mental discipline. They are encouraged to practice good moral lives with consideration of others. The traditional Vietnamese values of peace and harmony prevail.

The martial art of Nam Huynh Dao is a distinctive Vietnamese form first developed by General Nguyen Huynh Duc during the Nguyen Dynasty and passed down through his family. Centered in the Nam Chon Temple complex, the school is directed by Grand Master

MARTIAL ARTS Huynh Tuan Kiet, a seventh-generation descendent of Nguyen Huynh Duc. Nam Chon Temple is the home of the Nam Huynh Dao School of martial arts, but it is also a tangible and living neighborhood religious centre. Nam Chon Temple combines the traditional southern temple form honoring heroes from the past with a shrine to Guan Yin, the goddess of mercy, considered a Bodhisattva or incarnation of the eternal Buddha.

The temple was built over one hundred years ago on the site of an ancient shrine to Guan Yu, the god of war, and to Guan Yin (also called Quan Am in Vietnamese).

A brightly-painted relief of a tiger, the traditional guardian of southern Vietnamese temples, greets you as you pass through the gate into a large courtyard flanked by buildings on three sides. Inside the temple, the figure of Guan Yin dominates the gilded altar.

Cranes stand on the backs of turtles, symbols of longevity. The statue of a horse suggests mounted warriors. The columns of the interior are brightly painted, with blue and white dragons circling upward, accompanied by golden phoenix. The back of the shrine holds the altar to five deified heroes, two of which were ancient generals and leaders.

One of them, Admiral Bui Ta Han (14961568) was a military leader who restored the Le Dynasty of Vietnam. He was admired greatly for the way he secured the lives of the common people and encouraged the further development of agriculture as well as for his military prowess.

Quan Thanh De Quan (Guan Yu) is honored as the God of War. He lived during the late Eastern Han Dynasty in China and was not only a great military leader, but was also greatly admired for upholding the values of brotherhood and loyalty. He is an important character in ‘The Three Kingdoms,’ a Chinese literary work that became a major influence in the cultures of Vietnam and China. Today he is honoured in three religious traditions: Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism.

The other three deities are the royal Cao Cat Quang Do, the goddess Thien Yana Dien Ngoc Phi, and Lady Duong Phi, the wife of Admiral Bui Ta Han. The five hero-gods honoured at the temple are represented by five plaques that were

Photo: Nam Huynh Dao kung fu school - Nam Chon Temple dojo

given by the emperor to the people of Chon Sang village in the 1850s. Fearing their loss, the people approached Grandfather Tran Van Hiep and asked him to keep them safe.

Grandfather Hiep then decided to construct the temple as a safe place to guard them and as a place where the people could come to pray. It is said he brought architects and builders from Hoi An to ensure the buildings were constructed in the traditional way. I understand that one of his descendants is now the official administrator of the temple.

Nam Chon Temple is itself something of a warrior that has withstood the attacks of time. In 2006, part of the roof of the temple was destroyed when a banyan tree in the courtyard blew over in a storm. The temple was rescued by the municipality of Ho Chi Minh City and is now under its care. Each year, the temple is thoroughly cleaned and repainted for the annual festival on the fifteenth and sixteenth days of the sixth lunar month. Representatives from government and from other temples attend as well as residents of the surrounding communities. The second day of the festival begins with a lion dance, followed by prayers and ending with a communal meal to which all are invited.

Nam Chon is a typical communal temple in that it serves the needs of the neighborhood around it, providing not only a place for

spiritual worship but also for mediation in disputes, martial arts training infused with ethical teachings and principles, and a place where Vietnamese traditions and values are preserved and taught. Teachers from the school now teach the fundamentals of Nam Huynh Dao in many of the area schools.

They also work with handicapped and autistic children, helping them to build coordination and a sense of belonging.

I was very impressed with the teacher and students and with the work of the temple. I enjoy learning from Mr Huy, the head teacher, about traditional health and medicine as well as the ideals of Vietnamese martial arts. Having studied other southern Vietnamese traditional temples, I found that Nam Chon Temple is unique in some ways, as is the Vietnamese martial art Nam Huynh Dao. I am hoping to organize a Vietnamesestyle Tai Chi class with Mr Huy as teacher.

(Anyone interested can contact me at boutiquetourssaigon.com or contact Mr Huy at the temple. He teaches in both English and Vietnamese.)

The temple is open Mondays through Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Visitors are welcome to visit the temple and to watch the martial arts practice at 5.15 p.m. every day.n

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

• 21

TRAVEL

K

Above: Lighthouse on Ke Ga Island in the distance.

Photo: Hoang Trung Long

Below: Sailing to Ke ga Island.

Photo: Hoang Phuong

Robinson Crusoe redux

e Ga island is only seven ha big and just 500 metres from shore, but is quite famous, not only because it has a lighthouse that many think is the oldest in SouthEast Asia, but also because it has inspired many tour organizers to come up with attractive features such as raft rowing, rope skidding, and round asphalt-coated bamboo basket rowing.

Recently, for the first time, a Saigon tour company has success-

22 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

BY DANG KHOA

fully designed a tour, in which a team of tourists make a sail raft by themselves and sail to the island. I decided to have a small adventure.

From the spot nearest to Ke Ga, which is in Thuan Qui Commune, Ham Thuan Nam District, Binh Thuan Province, all 20 of us could see clearly the island with the lighthouse in the middle, which looks like a giant chimney that thrusts into the deep blue sky.

We also saw along the coconut shaded beach some restaurants

and hotels with boat rental service. Nevertheless, we chose a more thrilling means of getting to the island.

We divided into two teams to make a ‘sail boat’ out of tubes, bamboo splints, ropes and canvas that could carry 10 persons. With the guidance of the adventure tourism specialists, it took us only 15 minutes to get ready to sail.

The wind was high. The sail looked like the belly of a walking beer barrel. We, the oarsmen,

TRAVEL lacked skill, and the raft kept turning its head. Little by little, my team managed to control the unruly sail. Halfway there, we hit a strong current and big waves, which made the raft bob like crazy. A tall wave sprang onto the raft and almost knocked us down.

I was feeling the adventure now!

Without the life guard boat in sight, it would be like wrestling with death.

After 20 minutes struggling with the waves, we set foot on the island, which is stunted but lively, due to the multitude of rocks of all shapes and sizes under a cloud of swallows.

The island today is scarcely covered by rare dry bushes, but historical records say that Ke Ga had a small creek running through a dense forest, rich with pheasants.

So people called it the Khe Ga (Pheasant Creek) island, and then mispronounced it as Ke Ga. To explore the island with a myriad of rocks carved by sea waves through thousands of years and an over a hundred-year-old lighthouse that stands proudly under high winds and a scorching sun, each of us had to pay a VND20,000 fee.

We were surprised to see two rows of old plumeria plants lining the path to the light house. The tree trunks were big and rough.

‘There are 10 trees each row, planted by the French over 100 years ago, roughened by the sun and the salty winds, and age. ‘They blossom all spring, and that is a sight to see’, light house chief Nguyen Van Sau said.

The tower base is an octagon; each side wall is 3m long and 1.6m thick, built with thousands of large granite rocks, laboriously cut. I felt as if I was standing next to an Egyptian pyramid.

According to Southern Mar-

itime Safety Company, which takes care of Ke Ga light house, its height is 41m from the base. But some newspapers say that it is 35m tall.

Pointing to a little shrine blurred by incense, the almost 60year-old ‘island lord’, as we teasingly called him, said, ‘About 90 people died while building this lighthouse.’

Old records say that about 40 years after having colonized Vietnam, seeing that many ships and junks sank in the area around Ke Ga, the French decided to build this lighthouse. Designed by architect Chnavat, the light house construction began in February, 1897 and finished late in 1898.

Inside the tower, 184 spiralling stairs, lit by numerous windows on the side walls, lead to the top of the tower. Halfway up, sweating, my heart pounding in my ears, I thought those with heart diseases had to be careful when going up these stairs.

I leaned on the bannister. The fishing village Ke Ga gleamed behind, its shore full of fishing boats on one side. Beneath me, far down there, wave after wave lathered the rocks around the island. On the other side, infinitely far away, the sea and the sky mixed in a single blue misty mass. I felt so tiny.

The ‘lord of the island’ lives in a two storey house with metrethick walls, built by the French. 35 years living with the lighthouse, he had so much to tell about loneliness of life on islands, about the times when the ‘eye of the sea’ was shut in pitch dark nights, under raging storms.

On the way back, we put down the sail and rowed against the wind. The sensation was no less exciting than before.

Before all the adventures, we had enjoyed some nice cultural

activities, courtesy of the guide.

After six hour drive from Saigon, we checked in to four-star Mom Da Chim Resort, on the beach of Tan Tien Commune, La Gi City, Binh Thuan Province. The next morning, we had some Yoga practice on the beach while the red sun slowly turned bright yellow on the dark blue sea.

After breakfast, we went to a very sacred place which attracts pilgrims from everywhere, a national ‘heritage site of artistic architecture’ just two kilometres from the resort. The temple is called the Palace of His and Her Magicality, built in 1879 in a desolate grove. There are stories full of myth and folklore elements related to a married couple of compassionate Taoists who possessed magical power. The 220 square metres building contained many external and internal delicate carvings. The temple keeper told us that the most special thing about the Palace is the set of four central pillars. They represent the utmost perfection of the ancient woodwork.

Not far from the temple, we stopped at a large pitahaya plantation. Thousands of red dragon fruits stood out on the lush green of the garden. The owner described to us the whole process from germinating, growing saplings and day-to-day care, to harvesting. He let us pluck and enjoy the best of his fruits right there in the garden.

After leaving the plantation, each with a big bag of dragon fruits, we were taken to an openair food shop on the beach, looking toward Ke Ga Island. The wind was cool, the seafood was fresh, the cooking was great, and we had a generous refill of energy, ready for the rough ride to the island.n

Ke Ga island

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

• 23

TRAVEL

Paradise on Jade Island

I

Con Dao Islands

f you are flying into Con Dao, be sure to order a window seat.

The approach to landing is spectacular as you bank over the two of the largest outlying islands and abruptly land on a runway that occupies the entire length of a narrow neck of land. You will get a good view of Cay Bang town, the largest settlement nestled in the widest bay with a backdrop of the dark verdure of thick mountainous forest which has been declared a National Park.

If you are reading this is in Saigon or in Hanoi, you might well judge this paragraph to be the stuff of fantasy. But there does exist in Vietnam a town so crime-free that people leave their motorbikes and front doors unlocked. There exists

24 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

BY PIP DE ROUVRAY

in Vietnam a town, albeit a small one, so quiet that at midday, that you can stand in the middle of a major thoroughfare without a single vehicle passing you. In Saigon, there are whole districts without a single green space. This town has welltended gardens around pagodas, museums, its market and its beachfront. Furthermore, any pollution is dissipated by the constant sea breeze that wafts over it.

Malabar Almond Tree Town (Thi Tran Cay Bang) is the translation of the befittingly pretty name of this urbanisation. Some of eponymous trees have blue plaques on them announcing ‘Vietnam Heritage Tree’. The stunning setting of wide bay views, town beaches and mountain backdrop is reminis-

cent of more famous places such as Rio de Janeiro or Cape Town.

It had been four years since my last visit and there had been a number of changes. The town now has traffic lights-not that the number of vehicles justifies this. The local motorcyclists sometimes just do not quite seem to know what to make of them, but then again, the same thing could be said of those of Saigon! One set at a T junction next to our hotel is permanently set at amber-superfluous and as if the Highway Code did not exist.

In recent years, Con Dao has been acquiring something of a jet set image-a reserve for the rich and famous. In fact, the opposite is true.

It is now more open to all pockets than it ever has been. When we first

TRAVEL

started to visit in 2002, there were only three real hotels to choose from. Back then there were only three flights a week. Now, there four or five a day. The locals have responded by opening up a half- dozen mini hotels and guest houses centred around the market.

Some of these get very good reviews on tourist web sites and a decent clean room can be had for 300,000 dongs a night.

Another new thing for us was the Night Market, which has sprung up on an otherwise unfrequented street. We took a stroll to it for dinner one evening. Unlike in Saigon, here you can walk freely without fear of falling into a pot hole or having to clamber over thoughtlessly-parked motorbikes. However, at one point, grazing cows did block the way. The night market itself is clean and hygienic. The only parked vehicle we saw was the portaloo.

There were stalls selling various noodle soups, roast duck and various shellfish and seafood dishes, and we opted to patronise the stall of a woman familiar to my wife on previous trips from the day market. We ordered a whole chicken and my wife worked with the owner to ensure it was served with salad and finely chopped up according to central Vietnamese tastes. This, together, with bowls of hu tieu the signature beef noodle soup of the South, plus copious drinks served a family of four.

The bill was around a mere 500,000 dongs. (just under $25).

Something else that was new is that the

island now has a taxi service. This is quite useful for the airport, which is twelve kilometres from town if you are not staying at a major hotel, which will have its own transport. In the past, our hotel provided bicycles, which given the short distances in Cay Bang, was ideal. Now Saigon Tourist, its owner, which despite the name is Hanoi-owned, has withdrawn these, as it owns the taxis. Seeking out the best Vietnamese cuisine on the island a taxi did come in useful, however, to get to the Vietnamese Kitchen at the Six Senses Resort a few kilometres put of town.

The 'Vietnam Kitchen' is open air and you watch as a lady chef from Tay Ninh, wearing her conical hat, wields her wok and stirs her pan to serve you up famous Vietnamese dishes. We had 'banh xeo', the most crispy golden or country pancakes I have ever tasted in seventeen years of living in Vietnam. We also enjoyed a truly exceptional Pho beef noodle soup as well as 'banh uot' small rice cakes with finely minced shrimp.

I can not finish without praising the Con Dao museum with its exhibits on wildlife. The history of the islands from prehistoric times and the full grim story of the era when this was the Vietnamese Devil's Island. The old museum housed in the historic Governor's Palace is now the town's gallery.

Cay Bang truly is the loveliest of Vietnamese towns. It is well planned, very clean and there is no hectic hustle and bustle.

Opposite: Frieze of prisoners performing forced labour at Con Dao Museum. Photo: Pip de Rouvray Above: Con Dao. Photo: Le Thang My Below: Cay Bang (Malabar Almond) Vietnam Heritage Tree outside Con Dao Saigon Tourist Resort.

Photo: Pip de Rouvray

Whilst very small, it has the fine cuisine and cultural life of anywhere in the country. Finally, in short it has everything that is beautiful about a town without dangers or annoyances. Why not go yourself and enjoy it while it lasts?n

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

• 25

RESTAURANT ADVERTORIAL

Chef Martin Yan

Choice American beef to be relished at WMC Group restaurants

A

sia, lacking the vast grassland prairies and pampas of the Americas or the infinite horizons of the Australian outback, is not noted for cattle raising. Generally, I am quite content here to forswear 26 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

red meat and enjoy a diet based on generally healthier fish, seafood and poultry. The one dish that does use crushed beef bones for its stock and slices of beef shank that I do enjoy, more so for its coagulated pig's blood ('huyet') and pork knuckle, is ‘Bun Bo Hue’.

However, it was with great delight, coming from England, famed for her roast beef, that I accepted an invitation for a privileged few to taste some cuts of American beef certified to be of prime quality by the United States Department of Agriculture. This was held at Vietnam's most famed and well- established Steak House ‘Amigo's Grill’ on Nguyen Hue Street in downtown Ho Chi Minh City. You can also savour choice USDA beef at any of the other seven restaurants of the group. On this same street are 'Kissho Japanese Restaurant' and the 'Cafe Central Nguyen Hue'. On nearby Dong Khoi Street 'Gartenstadt' and 'The Royal Pavilion Cantonese Restaurant' are to be found.

Three more are housed in the Windsor Plaza Hotel in district five.

They are the 'Ngan Dinh', 'Cafe Central An Dong' and with panoramic views, 'Top of the Town'.

I was pleasantly surprised to be greeted to the soiree by my old chum, celebrity chef Martin Yan. A departure from the usually Western style of grilling steaks at Amigo's, Yan was there with his cleaver and wok to demonstrate how Asian cuisine can treat beef.

Yan began by vigorously turning and tossing strips of beef in the wok.

Serving it onto a dish, he adorned it with a colourful salad by cutting yel-

BY RITCH PICKENS

low, green and red capsicum into thin long strings (a la julienne). He covered it with a marinade of soya sauce and brandy. Finally, there was veggie caviar in the form of fresh green peppercorns from Phu Quoc.

Sautéing the cubes of beef with bell pepper in a similar manner, he added a mix of A-1 and Worcestershire sauce. He also used canola and cooking olive oil for taste.

I was struck by one thing Yan said. He told us he demonstrated only dishes whose ideas were such that his audience could take away and easily apply at home. ‘Otherwise it's just not education’, he said.

After sampling these, there was a trip to a very extensive salad bar.

This may be a carnivore restaurant, but the salad choice is amazing. I particularly liked the aubergine (eggplant dish), which was as sweet and juicy as the beef itself.

Taking our salad choices to the table, we were then treated to more Western-type fare. There were mini steaks of prime-cut sirloin and rib eye as well as beef shank. All these meats were melt-in-your mouth scrumptious. To wash it all down, WMC restaurants have vast cellars.

For this occasion, a dry South East Australian wine was chosen; a perfect accompaniment.

When you have the hankering and when money is available, the Windsor Group with its eight varied restaurants has a value-for-money American beef platter of certified USD quality to suit your taste.n Amigo Grill Restaurant 55 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Tel: (08) 3824-1248

HOTEL ADVERTORIAL

First by name, first by nature

BY PIP DE ROUVRAY

O

ne morning in 2001, I learned the meaning of the adage, 'Every cloud has a silver lining'. I was off for a weekend with my family to Nha Trang. We suffered the misfortune of a flight cancellation. We also enjoyed the good fortune of being accommodated at the First Hotel, only five minutes’ drive from the airport.

The room was comfortable and the food was excellent. We spent the afternoon relaxing in and by the expansive pool. I never forgot the pleasant experience. So, I was intrigued when I recently received an invitation to try their buffet lunch. I found the hotel had expanded greatly over the years, to include, among other things, a new wing, conference facilities, wedding halls, and more restaurants. The three-star hotel I had known has now been up28 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

graded to a four-star and has diversified into so much more than just a hotel.

There was no better man to show me the changes than Sales Manager Mr Pham Dang Quy, who has been working here since 1992.

First and most obviously, the swimming pool which was diagonally opposite the hotel seemed to have disappeared, with a large building replacing it. But no, Mr Quy showed me it was still there, behind the new façade, now in a kind of a courtyard with outdoor tables set around it. In this pleasant setting, you can now enjoy meals of barbecued seafood and meats. Moreover, at the entrance, there is a patisserie where you can buy choice pastries, cakes, and breads not generally available in the suburbs.

Now directly opposite the

original hotel is the new wing which brings the number of rooms up to just over one hundred and fifty. A security guard will ensure your safety in crossing the street, which is nowhere near the take-your-life-in-your-hands experience as you find in downtown Saigon.

Once over there, you will find a massage, sauna and beauty facility on the ground floor, as well as a VIP spa opposite and an entertainment facility for foreign passport holders. On the top floor, there is an atmospheric sushi restaurant with decor to make you feel you are in a rustic Japanese tavern and there are young Vietnamese hostesses dressed like geishas.

The new wing has a selection of framed pictures of old Saigon in the corridors. Each room also has pictures with local themes to

ADVERTORIAL HOTEL make you feel that you are truly in Vietnam.

Whichever category of room you choose, from Superior to Deluxe Suite, everything is here for your comfort; from tea and coffeemaking facilities to collectible toiletries in the immaculate bathrooms.

All this touring was whetting my appetite, so it came as some relief when Mr Quy led me back to the main building for a buffet lunch. He introduced me to Mr Do Quang Long, a chef of great renown, who has won a number of prestigious prizes. It came as music to my ears when Long suggested accompanying the food with ice-cold draught Tiger beer. At only 22,000 dongs for a glass, this is a bargain for a four-star hotel. I put the question to Mr Long which I ask all chefs and which invariably evokes the same response.

Mr Long is no exception. ‘Who cooks at home’? I asked. ‘My wife’, came the reply.

First up on buffet parade came the salad bar and vegetarian section. I sampled the crinkly chips, the vegetarian spring rolls and aubergine (eggplant) fried in garlic.

Then came a formidable array of chafing

dish hurdles. Unusually, some of these housed delicacies in little saucers. Particularly savoury were the stuffed squid and the scallop croquettes.

Whilst this basically a Vietnamese buffet, there were two delightful dishes of European origin, which have been absorbed into Vietnam's infinite cuisine. These were the chunks of beef cooked in red wine sauce and the spaghetti with Bolognaise sauce.

For dessert, I tried taro pudding with fresh dragon fruit and watermelon. I might have opted for one of the flavours of freshly made ice cream, but the calorie count did not allow it.

You will note below that the buffets on the weekend are a tad more expensive. This is because there are more seafood dishes in the mix.

‘First impressions last forever’. That is the motto of this hotel. That is my conclusion too. Returning after many years, I found the same core quality business of comfortable lodgings and fine dining. Only

now, it has sprouted branches. In the airport area, this is now also the place where you are guaranteed care and attention if you are marrying off your daughter or you need to hold a business meeting or conference. If you enjoy Vietnamese, Japanese or Korean foods or fancy a decent gateau you will find it here. And if there is anyone for tennis or a dip in a long wide pool or a spa treatment, well, it's all here now!n First Hotel 18 Hoang Viet St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 38444282 Email: first.hotel@hcm.vnn.vn Buffet Lunch, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Mon to Fri, adults: VND 160,000, children: VND90,000.

Weekends, adults: VND220,000, children: VND110,000 Buffet Dinner, 5.30 p.m. to 9 p.m., Mon-Fri, adults: VND220,000, children: VND110,000.

Weekends, adults: VND260,000, children: VND130,000 Prices include 10% VAT and soft drinks and fresh ice cream

HOTEL ADVERTORIAL

Comfort and sublime pleasure at Galina Hotel and Spa DAVE LOWE

W

Nha Trang

ith the advent of direct flights to Cam Ranh Airport and a greater international profile, Nha Trang is fast becoming one of the most visited cities in Vietnam. The glorious tropical climate, welcoming locals, beautiful bay, great seafood and a laid-back way of life all contribute to its charm. But there are two things which have really made Nha Trang world famous; its mud baths and spas. The city boasts three mud bath resorts and a host of excellent spas.

A day soaking in a mud bath is a treat is a ‘must do’ for any visitor to town. Similarly, a day at a high-class spa is simply a joy. One can lay back, leave the world outside for a few hours and be pampered in style.

In Nha Trang, there is only one place where visitors can get accommodation, mud baths and a great

30 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

spa under the one roof. That is the brand new, four-star Galina Hotel and Spa at 5 Hung Vuong Street.

The spa and mud bath complex takes up three levels of the hotel. In the basement is the spacious and comfortable reception area, which sets the scene for the rest of one’s visit. It is relaxed and user-friendly and the staff welcomes clients with a warm smile. Aromatherapy, various massage, facials, hair and nail care, nail art, body scrubs, foot care and pedicures, manicures, reflexology and waxing are all offered to make it a genuine ‘one stop health, beauty and well-being shop’. There is a kids’ games area so parents can kick back and relax for a while.

On one level is the mud bath treatment area with its 18 separate tubs, able to hold up to six people.

Hop into the warm therapeutic liquefied mud and either frolic or relax

for 20 minutes or so. The body tends to float in the mud giving a sense of weightlessness. It is a real ‘buzz’ for the first time user. There are outdoor showers under a large artificial tree nearby to clean off and the facility is in an essentially outdoor setting.

Part of it is sheltered under a faux ‘cave’, complete with stalactites. An interesting addition is the holes in these stalactites, presumably to attract the Salanganese Bird, worldrenowned for its nest, which is the basis for one of Asia’s iconic dishes, birds’ nest soup.

The area is beautifully landscaped with ferns, bamboo, shrubs, orchids and hanging baskets with overhead shade-cloth protecting clients from the direct sun. Views of the rugged jungle-clad mountains of the hinterland add to the general ambience and charm.

In the same area, there is a

large sauna next to a similar-sized steam room to sweat away the excesses of Nha Trang’s famous after-dark hospitality industry. If by some chance more hospitality is required, there is a small café/restaurant next to the pool and Jacuzzis offering light meals, soft drinks, juices and arguably the cities’ finest handcrafted beers from the local microbrewery.

On the next level is the spa itself and the term ‘luxurious’ is not out of place. There are a myriad of treatment areas, including VIPthemed rooms with Japanese, Vietnamese, Arabian and European décor, offering the ultimate spa experience in the city.

Clients are looked after by experienced, fully trained and amiable staff and therapists who treat their clients with friendship and respect, looking after their every need. The experience is one of pure indulgence and escape.

A massage at Galina Spa is an experience not to be missed. Clients are asked if any part of the body requires special treatment or attention and what level of pressure they would prefer so a custom massage can be arranged.

Photos: Galina Hotel & Spa

ADVERTORIAL HOTEL

It is not to overstate matters to say clients want for nothing at the Galina Spa. The forethought that has gone into the design and layout of the facility, plus the services offered, is considerable and painstaking. The well-being and needs of the client are foremost in its planning and experienced heads have been at work to establish a great complex.

When you come to Nha Trang put the Galina Hotel and Spa on your ‘to do’ list. There

is nothing quite like it in town and if you are an overseas visitor on holidays, you owe it to yourself to have some glorious, self-indulgent pampering at least once during the trip. You may not get the chance to repeat an experience like this.n Galina Hotel & Spa 05 Hung Vuong St, Loc Tho Ward, Nha Trang . Tel: (058) 383-9999. www.galinahotel.com.vn

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY Asia after Japan and China. 68,000 litres of wine were also drunk. However, people have claimed that it is unfeasible to carry out the ban.

All aboard!

Vietnam, 1-China 0

tuoitrenews.vn, 16 July China moved its oil rig, Haiyang Shiyou 981, out of Vietnamese waters early 16 July after illegally placing it there for 75 days since 1 May. The platform will be moved to Lingshui, a coastal county of China’s southern Hainan Island, China’s Xinhua News Agency said.

Over the past two and a half months, Beijing deployed more than 100 vessels, including military ships, to guard the illegal rig, despite Hanoi’s repeated demand for an immediate removal of the platform from the area.

During the time when the rig was placed in Vietnam’s waters, these vessels often rammed or fired their water cannons at local ships. Such attacks have so far injured 15 fishery surveillance officers and two fishermen, as well as damaged 27 boats belonging to Vietnam’s marine law enforcement and Coast Guard forces, as well as seven local fishing boats.

Mot, hai . . .…ban?

tuoitrenews.vn, 19 July The Ministry of Health has suggested banning the sales of beer and liquor between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. in a draft law for the prevention of ill effects of alcoholic beverages in the community.

Vietnam has a heavy consumption of beer and alcohol and the amount has been increasing year after year. In 2013, Vietnam consumed over three billion litres of beer, ranking third in 32 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

tuoitrenews.vn, 21 July Construction of the first underground terminal of the Ben ThanhSuoi Tien metro line in Ho Chi Minh City will begin in July.

The underground terminal will be built under the intersection of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue Streets in front of the Municipal Theatre in District 1.

The system, estimated to cost $2.49 billion, is designed to be 19.7 km long, running from District 1 through Binh Thanh District, District 2, District 9 and Thu Duc District in Ho Chi Minh City before reaching Di An Town, in Binh Duong Province.

The metro line is scheduled to be completed in 2017 and put into operation in 2018, when it can transport about 620,000 passengers per day.

Pricey spelunking

www.thanhniennews.com, 21 July An exclusive adventure tour into Vietnam's Son Doong Cave, the largest in the world, is fully booked until 2015, Nguyen Van Ky, deputy director of Quang Binh Province's Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism said.

Oxalis Adventure Tours, the sole tour organizer permitted to enter Son Doong Cave, organizes only four caving and trekking tours each month with just eight persons per tour. Each tour lasts seven days and costs $3,000 each tourist.

VN wants Guinness recognition

Vietnam News, 23 July Vietnam plans to ask official record adjudicators for the Guinness World Records to validate Ho Chi Minh City’s Nguyen Thi Tru as the world’s oldest living person.

The Vietnam Book of Records officials in 22 July gave a certificate and

badge to Tru, who turned 121 in May, recognising her as Vietnam's oldest living person. They also wished her many more years of life.

Born on April 5, 1893, Tru is leading a healthy life and lives with her youngest son, who is 72, in Da Phuoc Commune, Binh Chanh District. She gave birth to 11 children, but only four are alive.

Ride to the roof

english.vietnamnet.vn, 30 July The cable car system to Fansipan peak, dubbed the ‘Roof of Indochina,’ will be put into operation 30 April, 2015.

Construction of the three-wire cable system, said to be the world’s highest, longest and most complicated, began in November 2013. The Bank for Investment and Development of Vietnam is the main lender for the project, which has an investment of nearly $131 million.

Once operational, the system will take visitors to the top of the 3,143m Fansipan within 15-20 minutes, compared to climbing, which would take between one to two days. Its maximum capacity is 2,000 people per hour.

The system is part of the $206.8 million Fansipan Sapa complex, which encompasses a luxury resort, four- and five-star hotels, entertainment facilities, restaurants, and a golf course.

Nguyen Dynasty's royal documents get certificate

Vietnam News, 30 July Administrative documents signed by the Nguyen kings (1802-1945) have received the certificate of the Asia-Pacific Region's Memory of the World Programme.

The documents, which have been accorded heritage status by the United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO), include nearly 200,000 pages on laws, decrees, edicts and instructions for resolving problems in various fields

WHAT THE PAPERS SAY such as politics, military affairs, foreign affairs, economy, society and culture.

Among these valuable documents are also those that affirm Vietnam's sacred sovereignty over the Paracel and Spratly archipelagos.

Another Cham tower relic unearthed in central Vietnam

Tuoi Tre News, August 2 Archeologists from Hanoi recently unearthed another Cham relic of great historical value in Danang City in central Vietnam.

According to the archeologists from Hanoi University of Social Sciences and the Humanities, a Cham tower relic in Hoa Vang District’s Hoa Phuoc Commune, boasts at least three foundations dated from the late 10th century.

In a similar vein, locals in central Ha Tinh Province unearthed a valuable antique statue while renovating Ca Temple. Cham areas are remnants of the Kingdom of Champa (between the 7th and 18th centuries).

Ranger arrested for bribery

www.thanhniennews.com, 3 August Police in the northern province of Thanh Hoa in early August arrested a provincial forest ranger who allegedly took more than $4,700 worth of bribes from a rare wood trafficker.

Le Duc Hai, head of the mobile rangers division of Thanh Hoa Forest Management Department, was arrested as undercover police caught him receiving bags of money from the trafficker at the door of his office.

Vietnam takes preventive measures against Ebola

Thanh Nien News, 5 August Vietnam's Ministry of Health has instructed relevant agencies to step up preventive measures against the highly fatal Ebola virus which has killed more than 800 people in West Africa so far this year.

Provincial health agencies will coordinate with immigration authorities to monitor international visitors, especially arrivals from countries experiencing outbreaks.

Suspected cases will have to be quarantined and have submitted to lab tests.

Family donates sea, island papers Vietnam News, 5 August

A family with connections to the last Vietnamese dynasty donated precious documents on Vietnam's sovereignty over the sea and islands to the State.

The Le family from Tuy Phong District passed on the papers to authorities in the central province of Binh Thuan.

Written in Vietnamese using Han-Nom (Sino Vietnamese) characters, they include two royal decrees by Nguyen kings.

The documents demonstrate that the Nguyen Dynasty (1802-1945) took great care to protect the nation's sea and islands.

Vietnam hosts third gay pride parade

Tuoi Tre News, 3 August Around 300 activists led a colourful parade through Hanoi on August 3 in the nation's largest ever gay pride event, as Vietnam shows signs of increasing tolerance of sexual difference.

Homosexuality remains taboo in Vietnam, but a series of gradual advances, including the removal of fines for same-sex wedding parties, have been welcomed by the LGBT community in recent years.

In 2012 lawmakers even briefly considered legalising gay marriage but it did not work.

Vietnam's minimum wage to increase $14-18 per month in 2015

Thanh Nien News, August 6 The National Wage Council recommended that the government increase Vietnam's minimum monthly salary by VND300,000VND400,000 (US$14-18) in 2015.

The draft proposal was approved by 64 percent of the agency’s members on Wednesday and will be submitted to Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung for approval next month.

US grants $1m to fight HIV/AIDS

Vietnam News, August 6 The US is providing nearly US$1 million for a two-year project to combat HIV/AIDS in southern Vietnam, including HCM City.

The programme, launched in August 5 by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), focuses particularly on HCM City, Can Tho, and An Giang, where there is a high rate of HIV carriers and at-risk populations.

Together with civil society and non-governmental and mass organisations such as the Women's Union, USAID helps deliver prevention, care, and treatment and advocates policies to improve access to and the quality of HIV/AIDS services.

HCM City to install street cameras

Thanh Nien News, 6 August Authorities in HCM City have announced a plan to install surveillance cameras on streets throughout District 1 to improve security in the downtown area starting in April of 2015.

Surveillance cameras will be installed on every street in downtown Ho Chi Minh City to feed images back to a district police control center. These smart cameras will also adjust red lights based on traffic flows.

The street cameras will also detect speeding or illegally parked vehicles for subsequent fines.

Cameras will also be installed on traffic police vehicles to prevent corruption, according to the project.

Illegally imported ivory seized in HCM City

Vietnam News, 7 August Custom officials in HCM City in August 6 announced that they had seized three elephant tusks from Africa worth nearly VND3 billion (US$144,200).

Elephant ivory is forbidden to be imported or exported from Viet Nam. Custom officials are holding further investigations.

The ivory was apparently sent from France to a Vietnamese residing in Ly Thuong Kiet Street of Da Nang City.

Large-scale illegal logging discovered

Vietnam News, 8 August Police seized a truck carrying more than 10 m³ of high-value melanorrhea laccifera wood cut into hundreds of logs in the central province's Nam Giang commune in 7 August morning.

Preliminary investigations showed that the timber, which is illegal to harvest, was transported from the reservoir of Bung River 4 Hydropower Planet to that of Bung River 6 Hydropower Plant, then tied together to flow along the river to Dai Loc commune.

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

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EVENTS HANOI

TRADITIONAL PERFORMANCES Cheo singing performances

Cheo, a kind of popular opera / traditional music, is shown at 8 p.m. every Friday at the Kim Ma Theater, 71 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi. English interpretation offered.

Price: VND150,000 per person. Tel: (04) 3764-8079/ 0904549-579 (Ms Ngoan)

Street songs of the poor and blind Every Saturday night Hát xẩm is a minimalist style of Vietnamese singing, traditionally performed by the poor and the blind and especially wanderers, usually accompanied with a simple đàn nhị (two-string violin) or đàn bầu (single-string zither).

Hát xẩm is a Vietnamese blues from the 13th century. It is making a comeback, after several decades.

Artists at the Centre for Research on and Development of Vietnamese Music now perform xẩm at Dong Xuan Market, in the Old Quarter of Hanoi, every Saturday night. Free.

Ca truø

Ancient folk form

Quan họ is a folk song form that originated in the northern province of Bac Ninh in the 13th century. The form took on elements of other genres as it spread throughout the country, incorporating a dialogue style of singing in the 18th century, the period when Vietnamese literature blossomed. As a folk art with a highly collective nature, Quan họ songs alternate from group to group with singers keeping up the conversation by exchanging songs.

There is no accompanying instrumental music. Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk music company offers Quan họ performances on request; an hour costs around VND30 million. Performance venues can also be requested.

Contact Mr Quy Trang, head of Bac Ninh Quan Ho folk music company, at mobile 0913-073-326.

Ca trù, an ancient Vietnamese musical form with a singer accompanied by three-string đàn đáy and other instruments, is performed at 87 Ma May Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi, at 8 p.m. every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, by artists from Ca Tru Thang Long Club, www.catruvietnam.net.

Price: $10 (VND210,000).

Reservation is necessary.

Tel: 01 223 266 897 Ancient Vietnamese songs A ca trù, an ancient Vietnamese song form, is performed

by Hanoi Ca Tru Club at Kim Ngan Temple, 42-44 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi, at 8 p.m. every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Tickets $10 (VND210,000). Contact: Ms Le Bach Van at 0913544876, Email: bachvancatru.vn@gmail.com Water puppetry Saturdays and Sundays The Museum of Ethnology will hold water puppet perform-

34 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

ances at 10 a.m., 11.30 a.m., 2.30 p.m. and 4 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday, involving farmers from Chang Son commune in Hanoi’s Thach That District. An attractive element of water puppetry played in Chang Son is that performers use strings to control the puppets instead of rods. Before shows, they must practice for several months to be able to control the strings. The hardest technique is to control many puppets at the same time without tangling the strings. Museum of Ethnology, Nguyen Van Huyen Road, Cau Giay Dist.

Admission is VND40,000 for adults, free for children.

EXHIBITIONS Ceramic relics Until 31 August Ceramic statues are among the earliest form of art in human civilisation. In Vietnam, they appeared thousands of years ago and are still popular today. Over time, the materials, forms, and technical and decorative quality of ceramic statues have improved and developed. The oldest ceramic statues trace back to the Phung Nguyen, Dong Dau and Go Mun civilisations of 4,000 years ago and take the shape of humans and animals. This exhibition displays about 50 objects dating from the Ly Dynasty and the Nguyen Dynasty and is divided into three groups: life, religion, and architecture. The exhibition runs until 31 August at Vietnam National Museum of History, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi. Tickets are VND40,000.

his 6th solo exhibition till 8 September at Heritage Space, Dolphin Plaza, 17 Tran Binh St, My Dinh, Hanoi. Nearly two decades of drawing lotus flowers with oil, the artist gives each work a particular charm and freshness. With this exhibition, the artist introduces his new perspective on the beauty of the sacred lotus flower.

Hanoi artist to show work Until October Born in 1958 in London and based in Hanoi, artist Simon Redington is holding an exhibition until October at 21 North Club in the West Lake area. His work over the last 25 years has had a continuous thread to it; a vibrant jagged energy that is redolent of the past and a visceral insight that simultaneously informs and embraces a contemporary edge. Artworks comprising woodcuts, posterstyle prints, oil paintings and sculpture express his concern about key issues in modern society, including war and peace, consumerism, and social evils.

Simon has been working over the past ten years in London, Hanoi and Paris as a printmaker, woodcarver, and painter. Free entry. 21 North Club, 49 Lang Yen Phu, Tay Ho District, Hanoi.

MUSIC Make mine Mozart 27 and 28 August

Sacred flower art Until 8 September

Artist Dang Phuong Viet, whose interest is lotus, is holding

Two nights’ performance of Mozart, conducted by Honna Tetsuji, and featuring oboist Nguyen Hoang Tung and artists from the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra, is at 8 p.m. on 27 August and 8.05 p.m. on 28 August at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3936-2164. Tickets: VND120,000.

Tchaikovsky by Phi Phi 19 and 20 August A two-night performance of conductor Le Phi Phi, piano soloist Guigla Katsarava and artists from the Vietnam National Symphony Orchestra will be performed at 8 p.m. on 19 and 20 August at Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. The shows feature music of composer P.I.Tchaikovsky, including Piano Concerto No.1 and Symphony No.6 ‘Pathetique’.

Tickets: VND200,000, VND350,000, VND500,000. For free delivery, call 0913489858.

Come on, feel the noise 21 August

Hanoi Rock City will bring you a rock night at 7.30 p.m. on 21 August with Staer and Black Packers. Staer, from Norway, is an instrumental, avant-rock, powernoise trio. Black Pakers is a noise duo consisting of feedback worshippers Jean-Philippe Gross and John Hegre. Hanoi Rock City, 27/52 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi. VND50,000 (advance tickets, available at Ham Hanh, 170 Doi Can St, Hanoi).

VND100,000 (door tickets bought at the show).

Concert with pianist Anne Chamberlain 22 August

The American pianist, Anne Chamberlain, has already inspired audiences at the GoetheInstitute Hanoi in 2010 and 2013.

This time, together with Vietnamese musicians, she will take the audience on a musical journey from Mozart to Strauss.

The extraordinary concert with Anne Chamberlain (Piano), Dinh Thu Huong (Piano), Ryoko Bohmuki (Soprano) and Dao Thi To Loan (Soprano) will take place at 7 p.m. on 22 August at the Goethe-Institute Hanoi, 56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi. Free tickets are available from 18 August at the Goethe-Institute.

Richard Clayderman performs 23 August

Renowned French Pianist Richard Clayderman will give a three-hour performance in Hanoi at 8 p.m. on 23 August. The French pianist has released many CDs with works by Beethoven, Liszt, Chopin and Mozart. At 60 years of age, Richard Clayderman has sold over 85 million albums worldwide, had more than 2,000 shows and appeared on TV more than 700 times.

Vietnam music firm Southeast International Company and VPBank co-organized the performance, which will take place at the 3,000-seat National Conference Centre, Pham Hung St, Cau Giay Dist, Hanoi. Ticket prices range from VND600,000 to VND6million, available at VP Bank Office, 72 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi or 1st floor, 29T1 Trung Hoa - Nhan Chinh Building, Hoang Dao Thuy St, Cau Giay Dist, Hanoi.

‘Puzzel’ puts it together 30 August

The band ‘Puzzel’, including Vietnamese and French musicians and singers, will perform English, French and Vietnamese songs at 8.30 p.m. on 30 August at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 39362164. Free entrance.

OTHER Oktoberfest Hanoi 2014 23 and 24 October

Germany’s largest cultural event, known as Oktoberfest, is the world's largest beer festival, and is held annually in Munich.

Those who can’t make it to the hinterlands but find themselves in Vietnam instead can still celebrate the occasion at ‘Oktoberfest Hanoi 2014’, held at the JW Marriott Hotel starting at 6 p.m. till midnight, 23 and 24 October.

Guests will be served unlimited Paulaner Hefe Weissbier while German live band playing Bavarian classics, fun games and prize draws are also available.

Tickets: VND1,1million for individual tickets and VND1million for members of the German Business Association (GBA); available at JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc Duc St, Me Tri, Nam Tu Liem Dist, Hanoi, tel: (04) 3833-5588 or GIC/AHK Vietnam, 1303 Vietcombank Tower, 198 Tran Quang Khai St, Hanoi, tel: (04) 38251420.

SAPA

Charity run 20 and 21 September The second Vietnam Mountain Marathon, organized by the Danish Embassy and Novo Nordisk, a pharmaceutical company specializing in diabetes, and Topas Ecolodge Resort, will take place on 20 and 21 September in

EVENTS

the picturesque town of Sapa in the northern province of Lao Cai and host four races, measuring 10km, 21km, 42km, and 70km.

Each runner joining the marathon will donate $20 as part of their race entry fee to local charity organization Sapa O'Chau that provides education to local minority groups in Sapa. More information at www.vietnammountainmarathon.com

QUANG TRI

Holy mother 13 to 15 August La Vang Temple, in Hai Lang District, Quang Tri Province, has long since become the most important sacred land for pilgrimage among Vietnamese Catholics.

The La Vang Temple was built in 1928. This year, the 30th Marian Days will be celebrated from 13 to 15 August.

HUE

It’s a fruit 22 to 24 August

The Thanh Tra festival will be held from 22 to 24 August at Thuy Bieu Ward, Hue. Thanh trà, a kind of small pomelo, is one of specialties of Hue. The festival aims to introduce the potential economic of Thuy Bieu Ward, kinds of fruits at Thuy Bieu, and Hue cuisine to visitors. There will be rural fairs, traditional games, pomelo cooking contests and a bird contest.

HO CHI MINH CITY

EXHIBITIONS ‘Shadow’ art Until 23 August Galerie Quynh is hosting a group exhibition, ‘In the shadow

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER

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EVENTS

of appearances’ until 23 August.

The artworks can be considered as a kind of visual or metaphorical palimpsest with the act of erasing, layering, rewriting, repositioning and reimagining. Galerie Quynh, Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

Open: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday.

Gallery of the real 28 August

Tu Do Gallery is holding an exhibition, titled ‘Hyper-Realistic Paintings’ by artists Nguyen Phan and Nguyen Quoc Dung, featuring oil paintings, silk paintings and lacquer wares. The exhibition runs till 28 August. Tu Do Gallery, 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Dist.1,Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3821-0966. Open: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday.

From photo to paint 28 and 29 September Renowned photographer Hoang Quoc Tuan launches his painting exhibition on 28 and 29 September at the Ho Chi Minh City Exhibition Centre, 92 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1. The exhibition includes 57 oil paintings depicting his emotions about countryside scenes, childhood, flowers, girls in Vietnamese traditional costumes and dreams about the world of peace. The ex-

hibition aims to raise funds for the disadvantaged and homeless people in Ho Chi Minh City.

Cham women artefacts Until the end of August Southern Women Museum is displaying 63 objects and 28 photographs depicting activities in pottery craft and 100 kinds of traditional medicine of the Cham people in Ninh Thuan Province till 30 August. There is an archive of 14 ancient Cham pottery objects, from XIII to XVIII centuries, used in daily life and rituals and collected in Binh Dinh and Binh Thuan provinces.

Southern Women Museum, 202 Vo Thi Sau St, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City.

‘Phu Phiem – Frivolity’ Until the end of September Craig Thomas Gallery, in collaboration with Sofitel Saigon Plaza, holds the solo exhibition titled Phu Phiem – Frivolity, by Vietnamese artist Bui Tien Tuan, till the end of September at Sofitel Plaza Hotel Saigon, 17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City.

After studying silk paintings at the Ho Chi Minh City Fine Arts University, Bui Tien Tuan spent ten years working primarily with oil on canvas. Tuan’s decision in 2008 to return to painting on silk sprang from his love of the medium and his sense that it was starting to fade into a solely decorative form.

In his Phu Phiem series, Tuan introduces a more contemporary language of expression to silk painting through an evolution of the subject matter and the introduction of a vibrant new colour palette. He eschews the idealized landscapes and scenes of village life that dominate much of traditional Vietnamese silk painting for a ‘phu phiem’ or ‘frivolous’ world, where sensual and charming women flaunt their beauty, fashion, and their naked form.

Tuan’s choice to represent women in the paintings of his Phu Phiem series has a strict affinity to the medium. The silk paintings of the Phu Phiem collection are a door into Tuan’s world; a place populated by mysterious, sensuous

36 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

and attractive creatures. These women become a part of our own fantasies; they could be anyone we wish them to be, anywhere we desire them to be.

‘Conjuring Capital’ Till 31 October

San Art is pleased to present ‘Conjuring Capital’, a group exhibition inspired by the resourcefulness of six contemporary artists who promote the idea that time invested in labour is an commodity that justifies (and should determine) wealth. Participating artists include Adriana Bustos (Argentina), Christopher Myers and Hank Willis Thomas (USA), Ngoc Nau (Vietnam), Sudarshan Shetty (India) and Than Sok (Cambodia). These voices come from the Global South, a complex yet problematic set of geographies that endure the residual effect of colonialism and its current neoliberal face. Encompassing video, sculpture, installation, painting and drawing, the exhibition is curated by Zoe Butt, as part of the 3-year endeavour ‘Conscious Realities’, initiated and organized by San Art in Ho Chi Minh City. The exhibition runs till 31 October at San Art, 3 Me Linh St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City.

Open from Tuesday to Saturday, 10.30 a.m. – 6.30 p.m.

‘Net Xua’ Until further notice City Star Cellar is displaying over 200 antique objects and over 30 paintings in an exhibition called ‘Net Xua’. The objects are from many civilizations such as Dong Son, Champa and Dong Nai, and there are ceramic objects from the period of Ly, Tran, Le, Nguyen and Mac Dynasties.

The paintings are by Nguyen Phan Chanh, Nguyen Tu Nghiem, Luu Cong Nhan, Ta Ty, Trinh Huu Ngoc, Nguyen Gia Tri, Nguyen Tien Chinh, Bui Xuan Phai, Tran Trung Tin, Luu Van Sin, Nguyen Duc Nung, Hoang Anh, Nguyen Viet, Thai Van Ngon, Truong Van Y, Nguyen Van Anh, Nguyen Tien Chung and Nguyen Sang. The paintings include water-colour on paper, water-colour on paper sticker, gouache on paper, silk painting, pencil drawing on paper and lacquer. Every five or six months, the City Star Cellar will change the subject of the exhibition.

City Star Cellar, 13 Bui Thi Xuan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Open: 9 a.m. to midnight.

MUSIC Morning music Every Saturday There is a music performance at 8 a.m. every Saturday at the facade of the Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, by artists from the Ho Chi Minh City Conservatory of Music.

Westlife alumnus to perform 16 September Shane Filan, a former member of Westlife, will be in Vietnam and perform one night on 16 September at Cargo Bar, 4 Nguyen Tat Thanh St, Dist.4, Ho Chi Minh City. The visit is on the campaign of ‘You & Me’ tour to advertise for his album.

OTHER Taste of Vietnam Every Friday After almost one year in the making, ‘Taste of Vietnam’, a television series on Vietnam’s culture, tourism and gastronomy hosted by American chef Robert Danhi, will air on HTV7 at 9 p.m. every Friday, starting 18 July, with 26 episodes. In the show, Danhi will be featured preparing more than 90 Vietnamese delicacies right on the beach, in the forest or in the paddies, and showcasing the cultural and culinary highlights of the places he has travelled.

VALUE FOR MONEY HOTELS

Seahorse Resort & Spa

Novotel Ha Long Bay

160 Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 Novotel Ha Long Bay is offering a meeting package until 31 December for those who book a meeting room for at least 20 people. A halfday meeting package is VND550,000++ per person, including a coffee break, set lunch and a soft drink or iced tea. A full day package is VND650,000++ per person, including two coffee breaks, set lunch and a soft drink or iced tea.

Sea Links Villa

Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-011 www.sealinkscity.com Sea Links Villa is offering a special rate at VND3,000,000 per night per villa until 30 November for those who book from Sunday to Thursday. The promotion is not applicable from 30 August to 1 September.

RESORTS AND SPAS

Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh

Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien District, Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 www.emeraldaresort.com

dinner and a 45-minute spa treatment. An extra night is VND2,000,000 per room.

River Beach Resort & Residences

05 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-888 www.river-beachresort.com River Beach Resort & Residences is offering a ‘Last Minute’ package, with a 30 per cent discount on normal rates till 31 August. The prices after discount start from VND1,176,000 per room per night. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara

255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777 Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara, has a ‘Honeymoon Package’ until 31 December. It costs VND5,900,000 per Bungalow Garden View for two nights with round-trip airport transfers, a bottle of sparkling wine, breakfast, candlelight

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa

Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888

Novotel Nha Trang Hotel

50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 6256-900 Vous Spa, at the Novotel Nha Trang Hotel, is offering a 150-minute spa package at VND1,290,000, including body massage, facial and a choice of body scrub, foot reflexology, manicure or pedicure. The package runs till 30 August. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Pandanus Resort

Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh, a 90-minute drive from Hanoi, is offering a ‘Family Delight’ special until 30 September at VND5,350,000 per room, including one night’s stay, breakfast, dinner, complimentary access to kids club, swimming pools, movie watching, use of bicycles and use of mini-golf course.

Km 11, Ham Tien Ward, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-507 Seahorse Resort & Spa has a ‘Summer Promotion’ at VND1,899,000 per voucher, including one night’s stay in a Deluxe Garden View, breakfast, two mocktails, a lunch, free sauna from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., free tennis courts from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., a 5 per cent discount at Seahorse Bistro, a 10 per cent discount at Hippocampe Restaurant, a 40 per cent discount on spa services and round-trip transfers at Phan Thiet Station. Those who book from Sunday to Thursday can buy five vouchers and get one free. Those who book from Friday to Saturday can buy 10 vouchers and get one free. The price includes service charge and VAT.

Quarter 5, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3849-849 Pandanus Resort has a ‘Summer Getaway Package 2014’ till 31 October. VND4,800,000++ per room for two nights for two with dinner, lunch, round-trip transfers from Ho Chi Minh City by bus, a 40-minute massage, tai chi and yoga class and walking Mui Ne tour. Surcharge is VND300,000++ per person for Saturday, including a barbecue buffet dinner at the poolside and live music.

Saigon – Suoi Nhum Resort

Thuan Quy, Ham Thuan Nam Ward, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3683-240 Saigon – Suoi Nhum Resort is offering a special rate at VND1,140,000 per voucher, including one night’s stay in a Deluxe Room or Deluxe Beach Front for two, breakfast, a lunch or a dinner, a 50 per cent discount on spa services, one hour playing billiards and one hour playing tennis and round-trip transfers from Phan Thiet to the resort.

38 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa is offering a ‘Special Highland Retreat’ with prices starting at VND2,690,000 per night per room in a villa with breakfast, morning yoga class and lunch or dinner or a 60-minute spa treatment.

The promotion is valid till 30 September and applicable for those who book at least two nights. The price includes service charge and VAT.

La Veranda Resort

Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 La Veranda Resort is offering a ‘Stay 3, Pay 2’ till 30 September. The package includes breakfast, round-trip airport transfers, welcome drink and canapé. The prices start from VND3,827,000 per room per night.

OTHER

Nha Trang Limousine

93 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3516-612 or 0986 833 555 www.nhatranglimousine.com Nha Trang Limousine is offering Nha Trang tours and Dalat tours by limousines equipped

VALUE FOR MONEY

In August, diners will get a 20 per cent discount on fillet of Australian beef, Australian T-bone steak, Norwegian salmon fillet and grilled fillet of sea bass. The prices start from VND80,000 a dish. Buffet breakfast, VND190,000 for adults and VND120,000 for children.

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa

with a mini bar on-board, Wi-Fi, stereo and LCD screen. A full day Nha Trang tour costs $128 per person (VND2,688,000) including picking up guests at the hotel, visiting Hon Chong Promontory, Po Nagar Towers, Long Son Pagoda and Da Lo Pagoda, taking a mud bath and having lunch at local restaurants.

Also, Nha Trang Limousine has a full day trip to Dalat, including Xuan Huong Lake, Valley of Love, Prenn Waterfalls, Truc Lam Temple, Bao Dai Villa and the City Flower Garden. It costs $188 per person (VND3,948,000).

Liberty Central Saigon Citypoint 59-61 Pasteur, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5678 www.libertycentralhotel.com

Crystal Spa will choose the lighting and oils to awaken all your senses and rejuvenate you.

FOOD PROMOTIONS

Melia Hanoi Hotel

44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-3343 El Patio Restaurant, at the Melia Hanoi, has a seafood buffet dinner, from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., every Friday and Saturday, at VND815,000++ for adults and VND475,000++ for children. The buffet features specialties from all over the world, including oysters, crabs, calamari and lobster.

Movenpick Hotel Hanoi

83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 To celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival, the Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi offers a selection of mooncakes till 8 September. VND720,000+ for a box of four and VND388,000+ for a box of two.

Get a 10 per cent discount on purchase of at least 20 boxes and a 15 per cent discount for purchase of at least 50 boxes.

Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel

In the end of August, Liberty Central Saigon Citypoint will launch. The hotel features a luxurious design and modern facilities with 172 rooms, a restaurant, a lounge, a bar and café, spa, fitness centre, outside swimming pool, meeting area with a capacity for 150 people and a cinema. Centrally located at the corner of Le Loi and Pasteur Streets, the hotel is just a few minutes’ walk to Ben Thanh Market, Opera House, City Hall and shopping centres.

Crystal Spa

Floor 3rd, 202 Hoang Van Thu St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3847-9964 www.crystalspa.com.vn Crystal Spa, located at the third floor of Tan Son Nhat Hotel with the area of 1,200 square metres in a modern design, features traditional Thai massage and uses seven lights of rainbow in the therapy method. Based on your mood,

1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel is introducing a variety of handmade moon cakes till 8 September. The price starts from VND725,000 for a box of eight small moon cakes with flavours including white lotus, pineapple, black sesame, taro with egg, red bean, green bean, green bean and green tea, and green bean and green tea with egg. Those who buy at least 20 boxes will get one box free, those buying at least 50 boxes will get five free, those buying at least 100 boxes will get 10 free and those buying at least 200 boxes will get 20 free.

Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang. Tel: (0511) 3981-234 Pool House Restaurant, at the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa, is having a BBQ party by Non Nuoc Beach, from 6.30 p.m. to 10 p.m. VND790,000 including soft drink and two beer.

Novotel Danang Premier Han River

36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3929-999 Pier 36, at the Novotel Danang Premier Han River, overlooking the Bach Dang Promenade, is offering a ‘Brekky Combo’ with prices starting from VND100,000++ per person for breakfast and a choice of coffee, tea or juice.

Also, Pier 36 serves Saturday BBQ night, starting at 6 p.m., at VND299,000++.

Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa

26-28 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3880-000 Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa is presenting moon cakes with four flavours, including green tea with lotus seed and salted egg yolk, green bean with pandan flavour and salted egg yolk, savoury mooncake with jambon and salted egg yolk and savoury mooncake with Chinese sausage and salted egg yolk.

VND499,000++ for a full moon box of four cakes, VND390,000++ for a crescent moon box of four and VND 79,000++ for a single cake.

First Hotel

18 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-1199 www.firsthotel.com.vn

BW Premier Indochine Palace

105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666 La Brasserie Restaurant, at the BW Premier Indochine Palace, with a capacity of 200 people and overlooking the pool and landscaped garden, serves meals from 6 a.m. to 12 midnight.

Meals are prepared in the main kitchen and open kitchen featuring a wood-fired pizza oven.

First Hotel is serving a buffet with over 50 Vietnamese dishes from the north, centre and south. Every Wednesday, guests will get a spe-

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

• 39

VALUE FOR MONEY cial price of VND120,000 for buffet lunch, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and VND170,000 for buffet dinner, from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. A glass of draft beer is VND15,000.

Windsor Plaza Hotel

18 An Duong Vuong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688

Café Central An Dong, at the Windsor Plaza Hotel, has a feast of Malaysian dishes, from 15 to 31 August, including Malaysian salad, Jantungpisang salad, Celabusotong, Soup kambing, Rojah Malaysia, Curry laska, and Kuih-muih. VND148,000 including free flow of Krombacher draught beer. A 50 per cent discount for Malaysian citizens and Malaysia Business Chamber (MBC) card holders.

Hotel Majestic

1 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-5517 Cyclo Restaurant, at the Hotel Majestic, by the Saigon River, serves a vegetarian menu with many creative dishes prepared by the hotel’s chefs until 24 August. There is a performance of traditional music every night.

Hotel Nikko Saigon

235 Nguyen Van Cu St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3925-7777 Hotel Nikko Saigon is offering a selection of moon cakes with six flavours, including

Givral is introducing moon cakes crafted by skilful chefs with the fresh and high quality ingredients. Not only there are traditional flavours including roasted chicken and shark fins, coconut and melon seeds, but Givral also announces ‘diet cakes’, filled with green beans, green tea and lotus seeds as well as new flavours made from blueberry, raspberry, pineapple and Momordica. Givral has moon cake boxes embroidered with brocades or a selection of modern cake boxes to send to friends, family and partners. The moon cake is now available at all Givral Bakery, Givral Café, Trang Tien Ice cream outlets and Ocean Mart in Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi. Price starts from VND 94,000. For more information please call (08) 3979-7350 or go to www.givralbakery.com.vn

black sesame with walnut and egg yolk, pandan with coconut and macadamia, passion fruit and dried fruit, green bean with almond and chestnut, red bean and Japanese green tea and green bean and orange peel. VND800,000 for a box of four.

New World Saigon Hotel

76 Le Lai St, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8888 Till 8 September, New World Saigon Hotel offers baked skin moon cakes: green bean, white lotus, pandan lotus, black sesame, coconut, and mixed filling baked skin.

VND850,000 for a box of large four or a box of small eight. VND185,000 for a large cake. A 5 per cent discount for purchase of 10 to 20 boxes,

40 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

a 10 per cent discount for purchase of 21 to 149 boxes and a 15 per cent discount for purchase of at least 150 boxes.

Pullman Saigon Centre

148 Tran Hung Dao Boulevard, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-8686 Food ConneXion Restaurant, at the Pullman Saigon Centre, has an international buffet lunch and dinner prepared by executive chef Eric Bauru. The buffet lunch with more than 60 dishes is served from 11.30 a.m. – 2.30 p.m., and costs VND480,000++, including mineral water, tea & coffee. The buffet dinner, with more than 80 dishes including a wide range of seafood and T-bone steak, is offered from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. at VND768,000++.

BUYABLE

Handbag, VND260,000

Heels, VND395,000

Handbag, VND260,000

Heels, VND395,000

HANDED BY CRAFTS FROM VIETNAM 47 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0908 447 282

Handbag, VND360,000 42 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

Handbag, VND360,000

DIRECTIONS SAPA, HALONG, HAI PHONG EMERGENCIES Police: 113 Fire: 114 Ambulance: 115

SAPA

(TELEPHONE CODE: 020) Sapa is a former French hill station in northwestern Vietnam, in Lao Cai Province, near the Chinese border.

A number of minority cultures including the H’mong, Dao and Tay live in villages in the countryside around Sapa.

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Cat Cat View Hotel 46 Fan Xi Pang St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-946 www.catcathotel.com VND735,000 to VND3,780,000 ($35 to $180) Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel & Spa 23B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3872-907 Email: hotelchapagarden@gmail.com

www.chapagarden.com From VND1,470,000 ($70) Chau Long Sapa Hotel

Topas Ecolodge Thanh Kim Ward, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (04) 3715-1005 reservation@topasecolodge.com www.topasecolodge.com From VND2,300,000 ($110) Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa Xuan Vien St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-522 Email: resa.sapa@victoriahotels.asia

www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,657,000 ($172) RESTAURANTS Buffalo Bell Restaurant 25 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-455 Delta Restaurant 33 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-799 Fansipan Restaurant 23 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-556

HALONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 033) With around 1,600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay, about 170 km east of Hanoi, is well known for its limestone seascape.

Overnight boat trips out of Halong City are a popular way to see it.

HOSPITALS

Bai Chay Hospital Gieng Day Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-557 www.benhvienbaichay.vn

24 Dong Loi St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-245 Email: resa@chaulonghotel.com.vn www.chaulonghotel.com.vn From VND700,000 ($33) Holiday Sapa Hotel 16 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-874 Email: info@holidaysapa.com www.holidaysapa.com VND588,000 to VND2,100,000 ($28 to $100) Mường Thanh Sapa Hotel No 044, Ngu Chi Son, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3887-766 Email: sales@sapa.muongthanh.vn www.sapa.muongthanh.vn Royal Hotel 54B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3771-131 Email: hoanggiasapa@gmail.com www.royalsapahotel.com From VND340,000 ($17)

Traditional Medicine Hospital Cot 8, Hong Ha Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3838-113 Vietnam-Sweden Hospital Thanh Son Ward, Uong Bi Commune, Halong Tel: (033) 3854-037 www.bvubqn.tk TRAVEL

Halong Tourism 1 Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-272 Quang Ninh Tourism Company Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-350 Syrena Cruises Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Asean Halong Hotel Hau Can St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3640-034 Email: sm@aseanhalonghotel.com www.aseanhalonghotel.com Halong Hidden Charm Hotel Block 22D, Tuan Chau Villas, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-360 Email: infor.halonghiddencharmhotel@gmail.com

www.hiddencharmhotel.com.vn From VND600,000 ($29) Halong Palace Hotel 1, Block 20 Dong Hung Thang, Hoang Quoc Viet St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3619-819 Email: info@halongpalacehotel.com www.halongpalacehotel.com From VND3,800,000 ($181) Halong Plaza Hotel 8 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-810 Email: info@halongplaza.com www.halongplaza.com VND1,500,000 to VND3,800,000 ($71 to $179) Heritage Halong Hotel 88 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-888 Email: saleheritagehl@gmail.com www.heritagehalonghotel.com.vn VND1,200,000 ($57) Mường Thanh Halong Hotel No.7, Block 20, East of Hung Thang, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3812-468/ (033) 3819-777 Email: info@halong.muongthanhhotel.vn www.muongthanhhotel.vn From VND1,400,000 ($67) Novotel Ha Long Bay 160 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 Email: info@novotelhalong.com.vn www.novotelhalongbay.com From VND2,772,000 ($132) Saigon Halong Hotel Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-845 info@saigonhalonghotel.com www.saigonhalonghotel.com From VND950,000 ($45) StarCity Halong Bay Hotel

Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-058 Email: sm1.north@och.vn www.starcitysuoimo.com In the centre of Halong, StarCity Halong Bay Hotel offers 152 well-

equipped rooms, with many breathtaking views of Halong Bay RESTAURANTS

Co Ngu Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3511-363 Jumbo Vietnam Floating Restaurant 119 Le Thanh Tong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3624-888 Sea Food Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-822

Thu Huong Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-142

BARS & CAFÉS

Emeraude Café Royal Park, Ha Long St, Halong Tel: (033) 3849-266 www.emeraude-cruises.com Royal International Gaming Club and Villa Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-777

HAI PHONG CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 031) HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catba Princes Hotel

303 Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3888-899 Email: sale@catbaprinceshotel.com www.catbaprinceshotel.com From VND527,500 ($25) Catba Sunrise Resort Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3887-360 Email: info@catbasunriseresort.com www.catbasunriseresort.com From VND3,520,000 ($168) Harbour View Hotel 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3827-827 Email: info@harbourviewvietnam.com www.harbourviewvietnam.com From VND2,772,000 ($132) ENTERTAINMENT

Do Son Casino Zone 3, Do Son town, Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3864-888

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

• 43

CENTRE O

B

A

C

1 Hanoi Emotion Hotel 2 Capital Garden Hotel 3 Daewoo Hotel

1

4 De Syloia Hotel 5 Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6 Green Mango 7 Sunway Hotel Hanoi 8 Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 9 Joseph’ Joseph’ss Hotel 10 1 0 Little Hanoi 11 1 1 MAison d’Hanoi Hanova Hotel

3

2

12 1 2 Melia Hanoi Hotel 13 1 3 Movenpick Hotel Hanoi 14 1 4 Nikko Hanoi Hotel 15 1 5 Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi

3

5

2

4

STREET GUIDE Ba Trieu...................E3, E4 Bac Son.........................D1 Bach Dang.....................F2 Bach Mai........................E4 Bat Dan..........................E2 Bich Cau........................C2 Buoi................................A1 Cat Linh..........................C2 Cha Ca....................E1, E2 Cua Bac.........................D1 Cua Dong.......................D2

Da Tuong.......................E3 Dang Tat.........................D1 Dao Duy Anh.................D4 Dao Duy Tu.............E1, E2 Dien Bien Phu................D2 Doc Ngu.........................A1 Doi Can.............A1, B2, C2 Duong Thanh.................E2 Gam Cau........................E1 Giai Phong.....................D4 Giang Vo.....A3 ,B3 ,B2,C2

Hai Ba Trung.....E2, E3, F3 Ham Long......................E3 Han Thuyen....................F3 Hang Bac.......................E2 Hang Bo.........................E2 Hang Bong.....................E2 Hang Buom....................E2 Hang Can.......................E2 Hang Chuoi....................F3 Hang Cot........................E1 Hang Da.........................E2 Hang Dao.......................E2

Hang Dau.......................E1 Hang Ga.........................E2 Hang Gai........................E2 Hang Khay.....................E2 Hang Khoai....................E1 Hang Ma.........................E1 Hang Quat......................E2 Hang Trong....................E2 Hang Chieu....................E1 Hang Luoc......................E1 Hao Nam........................C2 Hoa Ma...........................F3

Hoang Dieu.............D1, D2 Hoang Hoa Tham............... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 Hoang Van Thu..............D1 Hoe Nhai........................E1 Hung Vuong............D1, D2 Huynh Thuc Khang........A3 Kham Thien.............C3, D3 Kim Ma..............A2, B2, C2 La Thanh.................B3, C3 Lang Ha..........................B3 Nguyen Chi Thanh.........A3

Le Dai Hanh...................E4 Le Duan............D2, D3, D4 Le Hong Phong.............D2 Le Lai..............................F2 Le Thai To.......................E2 Le Thanh Tong...............F3 Le Van Huu....................E3 Lieu Giai........................A2 Lo Duc......................F3, F4 Lo Su..............................F2 Luong Ngoc Quyen.......E2 Luong Van Can..............E2

OF HA NOI D

E

F

6 10 1 0

11 1 1 9 1 15 1 5 13

12 1 2 8 4

14 1 4

Ly Nam De..............E1, E2 Ly Quoc Su....................E2 Ly Thai To.......................F2 Ly Thuong Kiet........E3, F3 Mai Hac De..............E3, E4 Ngo Quyen.....................F3 Ngo Si Lien....................D2 Ngo Thi Nham................E3 Ngoc Ha.........................C1 Ngoc Khanh...................B2 Nguyen Canh Chan......D1 Nguyen Cong Hoa.........B2

Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ .................................E3, E4 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Huu Huan........ F2 Nguyen Khuyen.............D2 Nguyen Luong Bang.....C3 Nguyen Thai Hoc....C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien......... ........................................D3 Nguyen Van To..............E2 Nha Chung.....................E2 Nha Tho.........................E2

Nui Truc..........................B2 Pham Dinh Ho................F3 Pham Ngu Lao...............F3 Phan Boi Chau.......D2, D3 Phan Chu Trinh..............F3 Phan Dinh Phung..........D1 Phan Huy Chu................F3 Pho Duc Chinh...............F3 Pho Hue...................E3, E4 Phu Doan.......................E2 Phung Hung............E1, E2 Quan Su..................E2, E3

Quan Thanh...................D1 Quang Trung...........E2, E3 Quoc Tu Giam...............D2 Son Tay..........................C2 Thai Phien......................E4 Thanh Cong...................B3 Thanh Nien....................D1 Tho Nhuom.............E2, E3 Thuy Khue.......................... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 To Hien Thanh...............E4 Tong Dan........................F2

Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Hung Dao................... ...........................D3, E3, F3 Tran Huy Lieu................B2 Tran Khanh Du...............F3 Tran Khat Chan..............F4 Tran Nguyen Han..........F2 Tran Nhan Tong......D3, E3 Tran Nhat Duat..............E1 Tran Phu........................D2 Tran Quang Khai............F2 Tran Qui Cap.................D2

Tran Quoc Toan......D3, E3 Tran Thanh Tong............F3 Tran Xuan Soan................. .................................E3, E4 Trang Thi........................E2 Trang Tien................E2, F3 Trieu Viet Vuong......E3, E4 Trinh Hoai Duc...............C2 Tue Tinh.........................E3 Yen Phu..........................E1 Yersin..............................F4 Yet Kieu..........................D3

DIRECTIONS HANOI HANOI

(TELEPHONE CODE: 04) EMBASSIES

Finland 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6788

Algeria 13 Phan Chu Trinh St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3865

France 57 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3944-5782

Argentina 41A Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5263

Germany 29 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3836

Australia 8 Dao Tan St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-7755 Austria 53 Quang Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3050 Bangladesh Villa D6B 5 – Khu Vuon Dao Ngo 675, Lac Long Quan St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-6625 Belarus 52 Ho Tay St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-0494 Belgium Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-6179 Brazil T72-14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-2544 Brunei Villa 8-9 No 44/8-44, 9 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0001 Bulgaria 5 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2908 Cambodia 71A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-7636 Canada 31 Hung Vuong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5500 China 46 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi.

Tel: (04) 3845-3736 Cuba 65 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4775 Czech Republic 13 Chu Van An St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi; Tel: (04) 3845-4131 Denmark 19 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-1888 Egypt 63 To Ngoc Van St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3829-4999

Hungary 12th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5714 India 58-60 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-4990 Indonesia 50 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3353 Iran 54 Tran Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-2068 Iraq 66 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4141 Ireland 8th floor of Vincom Tower B, 191 Ba Trieu St, Ha Dong Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-3291 Israel 68 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-3141 Italy 9 Le Phung Hieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-6256 Japan 27 Lieu Giai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3000 Laos 22 Tran Binh Trong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4576 Libya 298B Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3379 Malaysia 43-45 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3734-3836 Mexico Coco Villa T-11, 14 Thuy Khue St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3847-0948 Mongolia 5 Van Phuc, Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3009 Myanmar 298A Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3369

46 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

Netherlands 6th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5650 New Zealand 63 Ly Thai To St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1481 North Korea 25 Cao Ba Quat St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-3008 Norway 8th Floor, Hanoi Tower, 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3974-8900 Nigeria 44/1 Van Bao St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-3610 Palestine 6 Dang Van Ngu St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3852-4013 Philippines 27B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-7948 Poland 3 Chua Mot Cot St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2027 Romania 5 Le Hong Phong St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-2014 Russia 191 La Thanh St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: 3833-6991 South Africa 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-2000 South Korea 4th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5111 Spain 15th floor of Deaha Building, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3771-5207 Sweden 2 Nui Truc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3726-0400 Thailand 63-65 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-5092 Turkey 14th Floor, HCO Building, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Tel: (04) 3822-2460 United Kingdom 31 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3936-0500 United States 7 Lang Ha St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3772-1500

MEDICAL CENTRES Acupuncture Institute 49 Thai Thinh St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3563-1069 Hanoi French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3577-1100 International SOS Clinic 1 Dang Thai May St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0666 Vinmec international hospital 458 Minh Khai St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3974-3556 AIRLINES Air France 1 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3484 Qatar Airways Hilton Hanoi Opera Building, M floor, 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-6767 www.qatarairways.com Singapore Airlines 17 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi.

Tel: (04) 3826-8888 Vietnam Airlines 25 Trang Thi St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-0320 TRAVEL Amega Travel No 2606 Thang Long International Village, Tran Dang Ninh St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3783-3570 www.amegatravelvietnam.com Buffalo Tours 94 Ma May St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-0702 www.buffalotours.com Emeraude Classic Cruises 46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com Email: info@buffalotours.com Exotissmo 26 Tran Nhat Duat St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com Email: go.vietnam@exotissimo.com Oriental Sails 16A Ly Nam De St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4009 Email: sales@orientalsails.com www.orientalsails.com Topas Travel 52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715-1005 Email: sales@topastravel.vn www.topastravel.vn

DIRECTIONS HANOI HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Baoson International Hotel 50 Nguyen Chi Thanh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3835-3536 Email: sales@baosonhotels.com www.baosonhotels.com From VND1,570,000 ($75) De Syloia Hotel 17A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-5346 Email: desyloia@hn.vnn.vn www.desyloia.com From VND1,806,000 ($86) Fortuna Hotel Hanoi 6B Lang Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333 Email: fortunahanoi@fortuna.vn www.fortuna.vn From VND1,920,000 ($91) Hanoi Daewoo Hotel 360 Kim Ma St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-5000 Email: sales@daewoohotel.com www.daewoohotel.com Hanoi Emotion Hotel 26 – 28 Hang Bot St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3848-9848 Email: info@hanoi-emotion.com www.hanoi-emotion.com The hotel also provides Vietnamese, Japanese and International cuisine Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 Email: hanoi.opera@hilton.com www.hanoi.hilton.com Hotel de l’Opera 29 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6282-5555 Email: contact@hoteldelopera.com www.hoteldelopera.com From VND4,140,000 ($197) Melia Hanoi Hotel 44B Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-3343 Email: melia.hanoi@melia.com www.melia.com Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 Email: hotel.hanoi@moevenpick.com www.moevenpickhotels.com/hanoi From VND3,139,500 ($149.50) Hotel Nikko Hanoi 84 Tran Nhan Tong St, Hanoi Tel.: (04) 3822-3535 reservation@hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn www.hotelnikkohanoi.com.vn From VND4,200,000 ($200) Pullman Hanoi 40 Cat Linh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-0808

Email: getcloser@pullman-hanoi.com www.pullmanhotels.com From VND2,448,600 ($115.50) Prestige Hotel Hanoi 17 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 6299-9888 Email: sales@prestigehotels.com.vn www.prestigehotels.com.vn A new four-star international standard hotel, on a tree-lined street in the heart of Hanoi, 15 minutes walk from the Old Quarter and Hoan Kiem Lake.

Modern luxuries, impeccable service and excellent value for the business or pleasure traveller.

80 rooms including elegant suites and an executive apartment, conference facilities, business centre, a restaurant, a fitness centre, a rooftop swimming pool and a cocktail bar.

Silk Path Hotel Hanoi 195-199 Hang Bong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3266-5555 Email: info@silkpathhotel.com www.silkpathhotel.com From VND2,289,000 ($109) Sheraton Hanoi Hotel 11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 reservations.hanoi@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/hanoi From VND4,956,000 ($236) As a ‘resort within the city’, Sheraton Hanoi Hotel is on the West Lake.

Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 Email: h1555@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com From VND6,090,000 ($290) Sunway Hotel Hanoi 19 Pham Dinh Ho St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3971-3888 Email: reservation@sunwayhotel.com.vn www.hanoi.sunwayhotels.com APARTMENTS Fraser Suites Hanoi 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-8877 sales.hanoi@frasershospitality.com hanoi.frasershospitality.com Somerset Serviced Residence Vietnam 49 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-2342 www.somerset.com Luxurious apartments and properties for hiring RESTAURANTS Com Chay Nang Tam Restaurant 79A Tran Hung Dao St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3942-4140

Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com Serving French food with a Vietnamese cuisine Hoa Vien Brauhaus 1A Tang Bat Ho St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3972-5088 www.hoavien.vn The restaurant has been famous for its production of Czech beer Le Tonkin Restaurant 14 Ngo Van So St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3457 www.letonkinrestaurant.vn Serves Vietnamese food

MUSEUMS Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 37345427 hoangthanhthanglong@gmail.com www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000

Infostones Bookshop 41 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-2993 Email: sach41trangtien@gmail.com Thousands of magazines and books by hundreds of publishing houses worldwide

Vietnam National Museum of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi 216 Tran Quang Khai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.Closed every first Monday of months Entry fee VND 20,000 ($0.95) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children

Craft Link 43 and 51 Van Mieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-7710 Email: craftlink@hn.vnn.vn

Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95)

BOOK STORE

SHOPS

Ha Dong Silk 102 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3928-5056 Tan My Embroidery 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Email: tanmyhuong@fpt.vn Tel: (04) 3825-1579 Viet Culture 1 Trang Thi St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-7417 Vietnam Quilts 13 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4831 www.vietnam-quilts.org Traditional embroidery and other handicraft cloth products

FURNITURE/ INTERIOR Dome Au Co 9 Au Co St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-5866 Email: sales@dome.com.vn Dome Yen The 10 Yen The St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-6036

STORE

Annam Gourmet 51 Xuan Dieu St, Quang An Ward, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-4487 www.annam-gourmet.com Annam Gourmet’s motivation is to “Enjoy Life. Eat and Drink well.”

Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND25,000 ($1.19) Women’s Museum 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) SPA

Elite Fitness & Spa 51 Xuan Dieu St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-6281 Email: info@elitefitness.com.vn www.elitefitness.com.vn Spa de Palace Fortuna Hotel Hanoi, 6B Lang Ha St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3831-3333

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

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DIRECTIONS NINH BINH, NGHE AN, QUANG BINH, HUE, DANANG, HOI AN NINH BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 030) Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh

UNESCO World Heritage in 1993. Hue is also known for its particular cuisine.

Huong Giang Hotel Resort & Spa

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien Dist., Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 Email: info@emeraldaresort.com www.emeraldaresort.com

Banyan Tree Lang Co Hotel Cu Du village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc Dist., Thua Thien Hue Province. Tel: (054) 3695-888 reservations-langco@banyantree.com www.banyantree.com BW Premier Indochine Palace

Ninh Binh Legend Hotel Tien Dong Zone, Ninh Khanh Ward, Ninh Binh City Tel: (030) 3899-880

51 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3822-122 info@huonggianghotel.com.vn www.huonggianghotel.com.vn La Résidence Hue Hotel & Spa 5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com

Tel: (0511) 3797-777 Email: H7821@accor.com www.accorhotels.com/7821 Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3981-234 Email: danang.regency@hyatt.com www.danang.regency.hyatt.com From VND4,683,000 ($213) Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3958-888 Email: info@pullman-danang.com www.pullman-danang.com Novotel Danang Premier Han River

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa

Email: info@ninhbinhlegendhotel.com

www.ninhbinhlegendhotel.com From VND1,575,000 ($75)

NGHE AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 038) Mường Thanh Song Lam Hotel 13 Quang Trung St, Quang Trung Ward, Vinh, Nghe An Province Tel: (038) 3737-666 Email: sales@songlam.muongthanh.vn

www.songlam.muongthanh.vn

QUANG BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 052)

105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3936-666 Email: rsvn@bwp-indochinepalace.com www.bwp-indochinepalace.com From VND3,024,000 ($144) The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue. Century Riverside Hotel Hue

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Bao Ninh Beach Resort Ha Duong, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3854-866 Email: sales@baoninhbeachresort.com.vn www.baoninhbeachresort.com.vn From VND1,120,000 ($53) Sun Spa Resort My Canh, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (052) 3842-999 Email: info@sunsparesortvietnam.com www.sunsparesortvietnam.com From VND1,870,000 ($89)

HUE

(TELEPHONE CODE: 054) Hue is a city on the Perfume River in lowland central Vietnam and was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. Many imperial structures remain. They were named part of

Vedanā Lagoon Resort & Spa Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3681-688 Email: info@vedanalagoon.com www.vedanalagoon.com RESTAURANT

49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (054) 3823-390 Email: info@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa

TRAVEL

Oxalis Adventure Tours Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province Tel: (052)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn

130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (054) 3885-461 Email: info@pilgrimagevillage.com www.pilgrimagevillage.com

36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang. Tel: (0511) 3929-999 Email: H8287@accor.com www.novotel-danang-premier.com Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam, Managed by Centara

588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue Tel: (054) 3978-484 Email: sales@hueriversideresort.com www.hueriversideresort.com Imperial Hotel 8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (054) 3882-222 Email: info@imperial-hotel.com.vn www.imperial-hotel.com.vn VND2,300,000 to VND29,400,000 ($110 to $1,400)

48 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant 110A Le Ngo Cat St, Thuy Xuan Ward, Hue Tel: (054) 3898-220 www.thientamrestaurant.com Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant features a Hue garden house with a simple design and a serene atmosphere. The restaurant serves a variety of Hue vegetarian food, from royal to local dishes, at a reasonable price. The menu has many choices, with prices starting from VND45,000 per dish. The restaurant also serves as an art playground for Hue artists. Guests have chance to get their portraits drawn by the owners at a reasonable price. Vegetarian cooking classes are also available. The restaurant is about 1-2 km from Tu Duc tomb

DANANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0511) HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Grand Mercure Danang Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang

255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0511) 3961-777 Email: cdv@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cdv VND1,785,000 to VND5,670,000 ($85 to $270) Ho Chi Minh sales office: 4th Floor, Ben Thanh TSC Building; 186-188 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3914-7940 Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0 511) 3968-888 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-danang.com www.vinpearl.com MUSEUM

Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0511) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

HOI AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0510) A major port town from the 15th to

DIRECTIONS QUY NHON, NHA TRANG 19th centuries, Hoi An has well preserved vestiges of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cultures. The buildings are now often used for tailor’s shops. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is a little over 30 km south of Danang, on the central coast.

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Anantara Hoi An Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3914-555 Email: hoian@anantara.com www.hoi-an.anantara.com Golden Sand Resort & Spa Hoi An Thanh Nien Road, Cua Dai Beach Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-555 info@goldensandresort-spa.com.vn www.goldensandresort-spa.com.vn VND3,759,000 to VND7,644,000 Golf Hoi An Hotel

Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3864-800 reservation@hoianriverresort.com.vn www.hoianriverresort.com From VND1,650,000 ($79) Le Belhamy Hoi An Resort & Spa Ha My Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3941-888 Email: reservations@belhamy.com www.belhamy.com From VND2,835,000 ($135) Hoi An Pacific Hotel & Spa

321 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3923-777 Email: info@hoianpacific.com www.hoianpacific.com From VND1,113,000 ($53)

Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa 187 Ly Thuong Kiet St, Cam Pho Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3861-171 Email: sales@golfhoianhotel.vn www.golfhoianhotel.vn

Hoi An Beach Resort 1 Cua Dai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-011 info@hoianbeachresort.com.vn www.hoianbeachresort.com.vn VND2,184,000 to VND2,772,000 ($104 to $132) Hoi An Historic Hotel

MUSEUM

Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation 10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

QUY NHON

Hoi An Riverside Resort & Spa 175 Cua Dai St, Hoi An,

Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel

(TELEPHONE CODE: 056) HOTELS, RESORTS

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn From VND 4,158,000 ($198) River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An

AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3840-132 Email: quynhon@life-resorts.com www.life-resorts.com From VND1,995,000 ($95) Royal Hotel and Healthcare Resort Quy Nhon 1 Han Mac Tu St, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 374-7100 Email: reservation@royalquynhon.com www.royalquynhon.com VND1,155,000 to VND1,365,000 ($55 to $65) MUSEUM

Quang Trung Museum Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50).

Free for children under six

HOTELS, RESORTS

5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An Tel: (0510) 3927-888 saleshoian@river-beachresort.com www.river-beachresort.com From VND1,350,000 ($65) ($179 to $364)TRAVEL

Rose Travel Service co..ltd 37 - 39 Ly Thai To St, Cam Chau Ward, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3917-567

38 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3889-999 Email: info@havanahotel.vn www.havanahotel.vn Diamond Bay Resort & Spa Song Lo, Phuoc Ha, Phuoc Dong Dist., Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3711-711 Email: info@diamondbayresort.vn www.diamondbayresort.vn Evason Ana Mandara Nha Trang Beachside Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-705 reservations-nhatrang@evasonresorts.com

www.sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/destination InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel

NHA TRANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 058) On the central coast, Nha Trang is a city originally known for beautiful beaches but these have lately been found to suffer from pollution due to modern life, development and tourism, like other popular resort areas in Vietnam. It has large numbers of foreign tourists, island-hopping, scuba diving, sightseeing and lounging on the beach.

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

10 Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3861-445 Email: reservation@hoianhotel.com.vn www.hoianhotel.com.vn From VND2,127,500 ($101)

304 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn Hotline: 0123 6009 777 With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Au Co Road, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3937-777 Email: sm1.north@och.vn www.sunrisehoian.vn

Ancient House River Resort Hamlet 2, Cam Thanh Village, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0510) 3930-777 Email: sales@ancienthouseriver.com www.ancienthouseriver.com From VND2,656,500 ($126.50)

Email: sales@rosetravelservice.com www.rosetravelservice.com.vn

Champa Island Nha Trang Resort & Spa

32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777 www.intercontinental.com Michelia Hotel 4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820 Email: sales@michelia.vn www.michelia.vn From VND2,200,000 ($105) Mường Thanh Nha Trang Hotel 6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3552-468 Email: info@nhatrang.muongthanh.vn www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn From VND1,400,000 ($66) Novotel Nha Trang Hotel 50 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 6256-900 Email: rsvn@novotel-nhatrang.com www.novotel-nhatrang.com VND2,415,000 to VND4,830,000 ($115 to $230)

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DIRECTIONS PHAN RANG, PHAN THIET Six Senses Ninh Van Bay Ninh Van bay, Ninh Hoa, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3524-268 Email: reservationsninhvan@sixsenses.com www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ninh-vanbay/destination From VND17,629,500 ($839.50) Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa 26-28 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province. Tel: (058) 3880-000 reservations.nhatrang@sheraton.com www.sheratonnhatrang.com From VND3,565,000 ($170) Some Days of Silence Resort & Spa Dong Hai, Ninh Hai, Ninh Hoa, Hon Khoi, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3670-952 Email: generaldepartment@somedaysresort.com www.somedaysresort.com Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-999 Email: info@sunrisenhatrang.com.vn www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn VND2,520,000 to VND4,305,000 ($120 to $205) Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-598 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com White Sand Doclet Resort & Spa

PHAN THIET

Population group 9 Dong Cat, Ninh Hai Ward, Ninh Hoa Town, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3670-670 Email: info@whitesandresort.com.vn www.whitesandresort.com.vn

(TELEPHONE CODE: 062) Sitting on the coast about 200 km north of Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Thiet is a beach city with many resorts and hotels.

Nha Trang Limousine

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

TOUR

HOTELS, RESORTS

Allezboo Beach Resort & Spa 8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-777 Email: info@allezbooresort.com www.allezbooresort.com From VND1,400,000 ($66) 93 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3516-612 or 09868 33555 Email: hieu@everbluetravel.com.vn www.nhatranglimousine.com

Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa 12A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-888 Email: res.amui@anantara.com www.mui-ne.anantara.com

Khanh Hoa Salanganes Nest Company 248 Thong Nhat St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-472 yensaokh@yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn www.yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn

Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

SHOPPING

MUSEUM Alexandre Yersin Museum Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-406

PHAN RANG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 068)

HOTEL, RESORT

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Saigon Ninh Chu Hotel & Resort Khanh Hai Town, Ninh Hai Dist., Ninh Thuan Province Tel: (068) 3876-011 Email: sales@saigonninhchuhotel.com.vn www.saigonninhchuhotel.com.vn VND1,575,000 to VND4,200,000 ($75 to $200)

38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3847-007 info@bamboovillageresortvn.com www.bamboovillageresortvn.com From VND2,200,000 ($105) DuParc Phan Thiet Ocean Dunes & Golf Resort 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3822-393 Email: reservation@phanthietresorts.com www.phanthietresorts.com From VND1,500,000 ($71)

Muine de Century Beach Resort & Spa 16 Huynh Thuc Khang St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-668 reservation@muinedecentury.vn www.muinedecentury.vn From VND1,550,000 ($74) Muine Ocean Resort & Spa 10 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-616 Email: sale.muineocean@gmail.com www.muineoceanresort.com From VND1,050,000 ($50) Muine Bay Resort

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward , Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com VND2,205,000 to VND6,195,000 ($105 to $295) Pandanus Resort

Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa Quarter 5, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3849-849 Email: pandanus@pandanusresort.com www.pandanusresort.com From VND1,575,000 ($75)

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province . Tel: (062) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com VND1,600,000 to VND6,090,000 ($75 to $287) Full Moon Village Suoi Nuoc Beach, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3836-099 Email: reservation@fullmoon-village.com www.fullmoon-village.com VND2,100,000 to VND6,300,000 ($100 to $300)

50 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

Mom Da Chim - Lazi Beach Resort Ly Thai To St, Tan Tien, Lagi, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3874-458 Email: contact@lazibeachresort.com www.lazibeachresort.com From VND1,900,000 ($90)

Park Diamond Hotel Nguyen Tat Thanh St, Hung Long Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3835-666 Email: reservations@parkdiamondhotel.vn www.parkdiamondhotel.vn From VND990,000 ($47) Saigon - Suoi Nhum Resort Thuan Quy, Ham Thuan Nam Ward, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3683-240 info@saigonsuoinhumresort.com www.saigonsuoinhumresort.com From VND1,700,000 ($81) Sandhills Beach Resort & Spa Km6, Tien Binh hamlet, Tien Thanh

DIRECTIONS DALAT, HO CHI MINH CITY Commune, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3846-789 Email: info@sandhillsresort.com.vn www.sandhillsresort.com.vn From VND2,520,000 ($120)

Mui Ne Unique Resort

HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Seahorse Resort & Spa

Km 11, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-507 Email: info@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com From VND1,440,000 ($68) Sea Links Beach Hotel Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-088 Email: sales@sealinksbeachhotel.com www.sealinksbeachhotel.com From VND1,995,000 ($94)

20B, Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-617 Email: info@muineuniqueresort.com www.muineuniqueresort.com Reservation contact in Ho Chi Minh City, 57 Pham Viet Chanh St, Nguyen Cu Trinh Ward, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3925-4196 Email: sales@muineuniqueresort.com Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3813-000 Email: resa.phanthiet@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,633,000 ($171)

Sunny Beach Resort & Spa 60A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3741-660 Email: info@villaariamuine.com www.villaariamuine.com From VND1,743,000 ($83) White Sands Resort 64-66 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-355 Email: info@sunnybeach.com.vn www.sunnybeach.com.vn From VND1,699,000 ($80)

The Cliff Resort & Residences Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3719-111 reservation@thecliffresort.com.vn www.thecliffresort.com.vn The Sailing Bay Beach Resort 107 Ho Xuan Huong St, Mui Ne, Phan Thiet Tel: (062) 3836-555 Email: resort@thesailingbay.com www.thesailingbay.com From VND2,571,000 ($122)

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 Email: reservation-dalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND1,700,000 ($81) Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515 Email: reservation@dalatedensee.com www.dalatedensee.com VND2,331,000 to VND4,662,000 ($111 to $222) Saigon-Dalat Hotel

Villa Aria Mui Ne

Sea Lion Beach Resort & Spa 12 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-390 Email: info@sealionresort-muine.com www.sealionresort-muine.com

Saigon Mui Ne Resort 56 - 97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-044 Email: saigonmuineresort@hcm.vnn.vn www.saigonmuineresort.com.vn From VND1,908,000 ($90)

perpetually cool climate. It is in the southern Central Highlands, about 300 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City.

02 Hoang Van Thu St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3556-789 Email: hotel@saigondalat.com ; resvn@saigondalat.com www.saigondalathotel.com Located in the heart of Dalat, SaigonDalat Hotel is a four-star-standard hotel, comprised of 160 luxurious and comfortable rooms with air-conditioning throughout and other modern amenities. Four restaurants, two bars, one tennis court, one indoor swimming pool, one fitness centre and one beauty salon and spa help make your getaway experience complete.

HO CHI MINH CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 08)

KM8, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-175 Email: frontoffice@whitesandresort.com www.whitesandresort.com From VND1,344,000 VND ($64) MUSEUM

Cham Culture Exhibition Centre Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3641-456 Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday Free entrance

DALAT

(TELEPHONE CODE: 063) Dalat, founded in 1893, has Frencharchitecture, pine forests and a

CONSULATES

Australia 5B Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6035 Belgium 91 Nguyen Huu Canh St, Ward 22, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3512-7968 Cambodia 41 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2751 Canada Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9899 China 175 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3829-2457

Cuba 45 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7350 France 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7231 Germany 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2455 India 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7853 Indonesia 18 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1888 Japan 13-17 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3822-5314 Kuwait 24 Phung Khac Khoan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3827-0555 Laos 93 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-7667 Mexico 11 Tra Khuc St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3848-6290 Netherlands 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-5932 New Zealand Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-6907 Panama 7A Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3825-0334 Russia 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-3936 Singapore Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5173 South Korea 107 Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5757 Switzerland 42 Giang Van Minh St, Dist.2, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3744-6996 Thailand 77 Tran Quoc Thao St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-7637 United Kingdom 25 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1380, (08) 3829-8433 United States 4 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-9433

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

• 51

DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY HOSPITALS Columbia Asia Gia Dinh International Hospital 1 No Trang Long St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3803-0678 FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, Dist.7, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5411-3500 Stamford Skin Centre 254 Dien Bien Phu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-1090 Email: info@stamfordskin.com www.stamfordskin.com AIRLINES

Air France 130 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-0981 All Nippon Airways 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-9612 American Airlines 69 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3933-0330 Asiana Airlines 39 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8710, (08) 3829-3038 British Airways 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2933 Cathay Pacific Airways 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3203 Emirates Airlines 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-2939 Japan Airlines 88 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3821-9098 Jetstar Pacific Airlines 112 Hong Ha St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3955-0550

Philippine Airlines 2nd Floor Saigon Royal Building 91 Pasteur St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2105 Qatar Airways 1-5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-3888 Royal Brunei Airlines 787 Tran Hung Dao St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh CityTel: (08) 3924-5100 Singapore Airlines 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-1588 Thai Airways International 29 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2809 Turkish Airlines 76A Le Lai St, Room 4, 8th Floor, AB Tower, Dist. 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3936-0360 - Ext 121 Email: saigon@thy.com.vn www.turkishairlines.com United Airlines Suite 708 Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4755 Vietnam Airlines 115 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3832-0320 Vietjet Air 8Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-0123 www.vietjetair.com TRAVEL

Asiana Travel Mate 113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-6678 Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn Buffalo Tours operates in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos.

The Buffalo Tours portfolio caters to all types of tours.

Exotissimo 80-82 Phan Xich Long St,

Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3995-9898 www.exotissimo.com Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.com Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com Transviet Travel Travel House, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3933-0777 www.transviet.com.vn HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catina Saigon Hotel 109 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-6296 www.hotelcatina.com.vn From VND1,690,500 ($80.50) Caravelle Hotel 19-23 Cong Truong Lam Son St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4999 www.caravellehotel.com Duxton Hotel Saigon 63 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-2999 enquires@saigon.duxton.com.vn www.duxtonhotels.com First Hotel

18 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-1199 Email: first.hotel@hcm.vnn.vn www.firsthotel.com.vn Grand Hotel Saigon

November 2011, adds a modern style. 230 rooms and suites, a ballroom, recreation area, VIP Lounge, Western & Asian restaurants, Bars & Grand Café at Roof Garden Hotel Nikko Saigon 235 Nguyen Van Cu St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3925-7777 reservation@hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn From VND4,830,000 ($230) InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner Hai Ba TrungSt. & Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999 Email: saigon@ihg.com www.intercontinental.com/Saigon From VND5,845,455 ($278) Kelly Hotel 42-44 Thu Khoa Huan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-3364 Email: info@kellyhotel.com.vn www.kellyhotel.com.vn From VND966,000 ($46) An elegant and cosy hotel with good service. Within walking distance to Ben Thanh market, Independence Palace and several museums.

Vietnamese food is served at reasonable prices.

Mövenpick Hotel Saigon

253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Email: hotel.saigon@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-333 Email: info@legendsaigon.com www.legendsaigon.com From VND4,221,000 ($201) Liberty Central Hotels in Ho Chi Minh City 17 Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3827-1717 177-179 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1 Tel: (08) 3823-9269 Email: frontdesk.lcc@libertyhotels.com.vn

www.libertycentralhotel.com New World Saigon Hotel 76 Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8888 Email: saigon@newworldhotels.com www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 8 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-0163 Email: info@grandhotel.vn www.grandhotel.vn Built in 1930, the Ancient Wing of Grand Hotel Saigon offers a cozy and elegant atmosphere. The Luxury Wing, opened in

52 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

New Epoch Hotel 120 Cach Mang Thang 8 St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-6169 reservation@newepochhotel.com.vn www.newepochhotel.com.vn From VND1,155,000 ($55)

DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY Northern Hotel Saigon

11A Thi Sach St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-1751 Email: reservation@northernhotel.com.vn

www.northernhotel.com.vn From VND1,505,000 ($71) Three-star boutique hotel, 99 rooms in Superior, Deluxe and Suite categories, a short walk from major entertainment and shopping venues.

Novotel Saigon Centre 167 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3822-4866 Email: H7965@accor.com www.novotel-saigon-centre.com From VND2,959,000 ($140) Palace Hotel Saigon 56-66 Nguyen Hue Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2860 Email: sales@palacesaigon.com www.palacesaigon.com Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234 Email: saigon.park@hyatt.com www.parkhyattsaigon.com From VND8,436,000 PARKROYAL Saigon 309B – 311 Nguyen Van Troi St,Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3842-1111 enquiry.prsgn@parkroyalhotels.com

www.parkroyalhotels.com From VND2,173,500 ($103.50)

Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0033 Email: reservation@renaissancesaigon.com www.renaissance-saigon.com From VND4,105,500 ($195.50) Royal Hotel Saigon 133 Nguyen Hue St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-5915 Email: hotel@royalhotelsaigon.com www.royalhotelsaigon.com From VND1,932,000 ($92)

Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-1623 www.vietnamhousesaigon.com

Tan Son Nhat Hotel 200 Hoang Van Thu St, Ward 9, Phu Nhuan Dist, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-1039 Email: hotel@tsnhotel.com www.tsnhotel.com From VND785,400 ($37)

Elle Cafe 45 Ngo Duc Ke St, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6291-8769

Windsor Plaza Hotel

Rex Hotel

141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2185 Email: rexhotel@rex.com.vn www.rexhotelvietnam.com From VND4,620,000 ($220)

18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688 services@windsorplazahotel.com www.windsorplazahotel.com RESTAURANTS

Kim Lam Restaurant

Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers 88 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-2828 Email: sheratonsaigon@sheraton.com www.sheraton.com/saigon From VND8,740,000 ($416) Silver Creek City Resort 112 An Phu Dong 11, Dist.12, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3719-9533 Email: reservation@silvercreek.com.vn www.silvercreek.com.vn From VND1,207,500 ($57.50) Sofitel Saigon Plaza

Ramana Hotel Saigon 323 Le Van Sy St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3843-9999 Email: info@ramanasaigon.com www.ramanasaigon.com From VND1,050,000 ($50) Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe

Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com From VND3,864,000 ($184)

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555

23 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6299-0879 Email: kimlam@galaxyfood.com.vn www.kimlam1galaxyfood.com The restaurant serves Vietnamese food from the North, Centre and South with emphasis on artistic garnish. It has three floors and can hold one hundred and twenty people. The restaurant is a treasure trove of Vietnamese culture with art objects serving as the decor Kobe Teppanyaki Restaurant 13A Tu Xuong St, Ward 7, Dist 3, Ho Chi MInh City Tel: (08) 3932-0187 Lemongrass Restaurant 4 Nguyen Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0496 www.bongsencorporation.com Mam Son Restaurant 35 Ton That Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3915-3653 Vietnamese food Vatel Saigon Bistronomique-Lounge 120 Bis Suong Nguyet Anh St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 5404-2220 www.vatelsaigon.com Vietnam House Restaurant 93 - 95 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1,

BARS & CAFÉS

Caffe Molinari 5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3910-6903 Email: molinari@vnn.vn www.caffemolinari.com Sax N’ Art Jazz Club 28 Le Loi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8472 www.saxnart.com Thao Nguyen Café Floor 7 and Rooftop of Restaurant Ngon 138 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9666 Open from 7 a.m. until 10.30 p.m.

SHOPS

IPA Nima 85 Pasteur St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-2701 IPA Nima is well-known for its bags.

Shin 122 Ly Tu Trong St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City 53A Nguyen Du St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0909352369 Shin is famous for fashion clothes and leather bags.

SPA

Vspa & Skincare

15B/25 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3827-9484 Email: reception.vspa@gmail.com www.vspa.com.vn 20 per cent off all treatments when you show us a copy of Vietnam Heritage COOKING CLASSES

Mint Culinary School 778/45 Nguyen Kiem St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-5500 Email: sales@vca.com.vn www.vca.com.vn Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com

VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

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CENTRE OF HO

A

B

C

1 Duxton Hotel Saigon 2 Equatorial Hotel 3 Grand Hotel 4 Intercontinental Asiana Saigon Hotel 5 Kelly Hotel

1

6 Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 7 Majestic Hotel 8 New W World orld Hotel 9 Oscar Hotel 1 0 Park Hyatt 10 1 1 Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 11 12 1 2 Rex Hotel 13 1 3 Sheraton Saigon Hotel & TTowers owers 14 1 4 New Epoch Hotel

2 1 4 14

15 1 5 Ngon 138 Restaurant 16 1 6 V ietnam House Restaurant Vietnam

1 7 V 17 -Spa V-Spa

3

4 2

STREET GUIDE 3 Thang 2..........A2, A3, B2 Alexandre De Rhodes........ ........................................E2 An Duong Vuong....A4, B4 Ba Le Chan....................D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan...... ........................................C2 Ban Co...........................B3 Ben Chuong Duong........... .................................D4, E4 Ben Van Don...........D4, E4

Bui Thi Xuan..................C3 Bui Vien...................C4, D4 Cach Mang Thang Tam..... ......A1, B1, B2, C2, C3, D3 Calmette.........................E4 Cao Thang.....................B3 Chu Manh Trinh.............F2 Co Bac.....................C4, D4 Co Giang............. ...C4, D4 Cong Quynh............C3, C4 De Tham........................D4

Dien Bien Phu.....................

A3, B2, C2, D1, D2, E1, F1 Dinh Tien Hoang............E1 Do Quang Dau...............C4 Do Thanh.......................B3 Doan Cong Buu.............C1 Doan Nhu Hai..........E4, F4 Dong Du.........................F3 Dong Khoi................E3, F3 Hai Ba Trung....................... ...........................D1, E2, F3 Hai Trieu.........................F4

Ham Nghi.................E4, F4 Han Thuyen....................E2 Ho Hao Hon...................C4 Ho Tung Mau...........E3, E4 Ho Xuan Huong.............C2 Hoa Hung.......................A2 Hung Vuong...................A4 Huyen Tran Cong Chua..... ........................................D3 Huynh Thuc Khang........E3 Huynh Tinh Cua.............D1 Ky Con.....................D4, E4

Ky Dong...................B2, C1 Le Duan...................E2, F2 Le Hong Phong.................. ...........................A2, A3, A4 Le Lai.......................C3, D3 Le Loi..............................E3 Le Quy Don....................D2 Le Thanh Ton...................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Le Thi Hong Gam............... .................................D4, E4 Le Thi Rieng............C3, D3

Le Van Sy.......................B1 Luong Huu Khanh.........C3 Ly Chinh Thang.......C1, C2 Ly Thai To......................A3 Ly Tu Trong......................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Ly Van Phuc...................E1 Mac Dinh Chi...........E1, E2 Mac Thi Buoi..................F3 Mai Thi Luu..............E1, F1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia............ ...................C1, D1, D2, D3

CHI MINH CITY D

E

F

4

17

15 10 5

12

13 1

6

16 9 3

8

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Ngo Duc Ke....................F3 Ngo Thoi Nhiem ....C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam.................F2 Nguyen Binh Khiem.............. .....................................F1, F2 Nguyen Cau...................D1 Nguyen Cong Tru............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ ......B3, C2, C3, D2, E1, F1 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Hue.............E3, F3

Nguyen Khac Nhu.............. .................................C4, D4 Nam Quoc Cang.....C3, C4 Nguyen Phi Khanh.........E1 Nguyen Sieu...................F3 Nguyen Son Tra................. .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Tat Thanh..........F4 Nguyen Thai Binh............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc....D3, D4 Nguyen Thanh Y............E1

Nguyen Thi Dieu............C2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai........ .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat........... .................................A3, B3 Nguyen Thong........B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien........ .................................B2, C3 Nguyen Trai.............B4, C4 Nguyen Trung Ngan......F2 Nguyen Trung Truc........E3 Nguyen Truong To.........E4

Nguyen Van Cu..............B4 Nguyen Van Thu......E1, F1 Pasteur................................ ...............D1, D2, E2, E3,E4 Pham Ngoc Thach.........D1 Pham Ngu Lao........C4, D4 Pham Viet Chanh...........B3 Phan Ke Binh..........E1, E2 Pho Duc Chinh...............E4 Phung Khac Khoan.......E2 Suong Nguyet Anh........C3 Thach Thi Thanh.....D1, E1

Thai Van Lung................F3 Thi Sach.........................F3 Thu Khoa Huan.......D3, E3 To Hien Thanh................A1 Ton That Dam..........E3, E4 Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Binh Trong......A3, A4 Tran Cao Van.................E2 Tran Dinh Xu...........B4, C4 Tran Hung Dao.......C4, D4 Tran Minh Quyen...........A3 Tran Nhan Tong.......A3, A4

Tran Phu.........................A4 Tran Quang Dieu...........B1 Tran Quang Khai.....D1, E1 Tran Quoc Thao......C1, D2 Tran Quoc Toan......C1, D1 Truong Dinh............C1, C2 Tu Xuong.......................C2 Vinh Vien........................A3 Vo Thi Sau........C2, D1, E1 Vo Van Tan..............C3, B3 Vuon Chuoi..............B2, B3 Yersin..............................D4

DIRECTIONS VUNG TAU, LONG HAI, CON DAO, CAN THO, CHAU DOC GALLERIES Artists Long & Ngoc Gallery Grand Hotel (at the lobby), 8 Dong Khoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City TeL: (08) 2246-6839 Mobile: 0908 229 708 Email: ngoclongfineart@yahoo.com Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7962 Cactus Contemporary Art 17/12 Nguen Huy Tuong St, Ward 6, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 7300-1270 Email: info@cactusartgallery.com www.cactusartgallery.com Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Closed Mondays and Sundays Galerie Quynh 65 De Tham St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3836-8019 www.galeriequynh.com Sàn Art 3 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3840-0183 www.san-art.org Opening: 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. every.

Closed on Sunday and Monday Tu Do Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-0966 www.tudogallery.com Opening: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday MUSEUMS

Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Closed Mondays.

Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3,

Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

A popular beach resort town for residents of Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau is about 128 km southeast of HCMC. It can be reached either by road or by a 90-minute hydrofoil boat from HCMC. Sitting on a peninsula that sticks out into the East Sea, Vung Tau does not have the most beautiful, or cleanest, beaches in Vietnam but can act as a quick getaway from the buzz of the city.

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Mường Thanh Vung Tau Hotel No 09, Thong Nhat St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3835-567 Email: sales@vungtau.muongthanh.vn www.vungtau.muongthanh.vn From VND1,890,000 ($90) Grand Hotel Vung Tau

2 Nguyen Du St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-888 Email: sales@grandhotel.com.vn www.grandhotel.com.vn From VND2,058,000 ($98) A four star hotel, 125 km from Saigon, built in 1890s with the French architecture, near the beach and few hundreds metres from Vung Tau Hydrofoil Terminal. 66 rooms and 17 apartments, three meeting rooms seated from 20 to 250 and wedding services.

Palace Hotel

Petro House Hotel 63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-014 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn From VND1,260,000 ($60) Newly refurbished rooms conveniently located near Vung Tau ferry terminal.

Catering to Asian and European tastes with Malaysian cuisine specialty.

Romeliess Hotel

Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3624-748 Email: sales@petrosetco.com.vn www.petrosetcohotel.vn From VND1,085,700 ($52)

56 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

CAN THO

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0710) Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta, about 170 km southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and acts as the area’s economic, transportation and cultural centre. Sitting on the Mekong River, Can Tho is popular for its nearby floating markets, canals and rivers that can be explored by boat.

HOTELS, RESORTS

31 - 33 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3613-366 Email: sales@romeliss.com www.romeliesshotel.com A new three-star hotel at the Back Beach, the ‘best beach in Vung Tau,’ with nearly 50 rooms overlooking the beach! Many promotions at www.romliess.com Vietsov Petro Resort Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc Dist., Ba Ria-Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3782-266 Email: info@vietsovpetroresort.com www.vietsovpetroresort.com The Imperial Hotel & Residences Vung Tau 159 - 163 Thuy Van St, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3628-888 Email: info@imperialhotel.vn www.imperialhotel.vn MUSEUM

White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

LONG HAI

Long Hai is a beach town, 30km northeast of Vung Tau and 124 km southeast of HCMC. The Grand Ho Tram Strip

1 Nguyen Trai St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-411 Email: sales@palacehotel.com.vn www.palacehotel.com.vn From VND2,062,000 ($97)

www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ con-dao/destination From VND14,490,000 ($690) Six Senses Con Dao has been selected as one of 2013's 25 Best Ecolodges by National Geographic Traveler

Phuoc Thuan, Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung Tau Province Tel: (064) 3788-888 Email: info@thegrandhotramstrip.com www.thegrandhotramstrip.com

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist., Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province Tel : (064) 3831-222 reservations-condao@sixsenses.com

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Golf Can Tho Hotel 2 Hai Ba Trung St, Tan An Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3812-210 Email: golf4.cantho@vinagolf.vn www.vinagolf.vn Victoria Can Tho Resort Cai Khe Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3810-111 Email: resa.cantho@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,700,000 ($175) MUSEUM

Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St, Tan An Ward, Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3820-955 Open: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.); Saturday and Sunday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.). Closed on Friday. Free admission

CHAU DOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 076) HOTELS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Victoria Chau Doc Hotel 1 Le Loi St, Chau Doc Town, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3865-010 resa.chaudoc@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia From VND3,169,000 ($149) Victoria Nui Sam Lodge Vinh Dong 1, Nui Sam, Chau Doc, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3575-888 Email: resa.nuisam@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia MUSEUM

An Giang Museum 11 Ton Duc Thang St, My Binh Ward, Long Xuyen City, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3956-248 Open hour 7a.m. to 11a.m. and 1.30

DIRECTIONS PHU QUOC, OVERSEAS p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Monday Entrance fee: VND42,000 ($2)

PHU QUOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Phu Quoc Island, off the southern tip of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country.

White-sand beaches, scuba diving around coral reefs or exploring the protected jungle. Accessible by either the Rach Gia hydrofoil boat or a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Modest family-owned bungalows on the beach to fivestar resorts.

HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Eden Resort Phu Quocv Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 Email: reservations@edenresort.com.vn

www.edenresort.com.vn Chen Sea Resort & Spa Phu Quoc, Centara Boutique Collection Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3995-895 Email: cpv@chr.co.th www.centarahotelsresorts.com From VND3,381,000 ($161) La Veranda Resort Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 Email: contact@laverandaresorts.com www.laverandaresorts.com VND5,082,000 to VND8,694,000 ($242 to $414) Sai Gon Phu Quoc Resort 1 Tran Hung Dao St, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3846-999 Email: sgphuquocresort@hcm.vnn.vn www.sgphuquocresort.com.vn VND2,499,000 to VND4,011,000 ($119 to $191)

CANADA

(Telephone code: 1) Xe Lua 254 Spadina Ave, Tonronto, Ontario Canada M5T2C2 Tel: (1-416) 703-8330 Xe Lua has been open since 1996 and serves phở for $6 a bowl Open: 11.30 a.m. to 12 p.m Chau Kitchen and Bar 1500 Robson St. Vancouver, British Columbia Tel: (1-604) 682-8020 www.chaukitchenandbar.com Serves Vietnamese dishes with prices starting at $7 per dish.

FRANCE

(Telephone code: 33)

CLEMONT-FERRAND Kim Anh 6 Bis r Elie Gintrac Tel: (33-4) 7391-9364 Serves traditional Vietnamese food, from €12.80 per dish Open 11.30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (closed on Sundays).

GRENOBLE Kim Ngan 22 r Nicolas Chrier Tel: (33-4) 7649-0847 Serves Vietnamese food with prices starting at €8 per dish

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

(Telephone code: 1) CALIFORNIA-CA Emerald Restaurant Pacific Gateway Plaza 3709 Convoy Street, Ste 101, San Diego, CA 92111 Tel: (1) 858-565-6888 Serves Vietnamese food

AUSTRALIA

514 12th Ave Seattle, WA 98122 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 Moonlight Café 1919 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-322-3378 Massachusetts-MA Saigon Hut 305-307 Meridian St. Boston, ] MA 02128; Tel: (1) 617-567-1944

(Telephone code: 61) La Mint 62–64 Riley St, East Sydney NSW 2010 Tel: (61) 293-311-818 Email: service@lamint.com.au www.lamint.com.au Open: Wednesday to Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m., Monday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to 10.30 p.m. French and Vietnamese dishes

Xinh Xinh 7 Beach St (Washington St.) Boston, MA 02111 Tel: (1) 617-422-0501

(Telephone code: 62) Pho 24 Pondok Indah, Plaza I, Jln. Taman Duta 1Blok UA 35 Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-505-909 JIn. Wolter Mongonsidi No. 71, Kebayyoran Baru, Jakarta Selatan Tel: (62) 0217-278-8411 Pacific Place Mall, 5th Floor, SCBD, JIn. Jendral Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta 12190 Tel: (62) 0215-140-0531

UNITED KINGDOM

(Telephone code: 44) Little Saigon Restaurant 6 Bigg Market, Newcastle upon Tyne, England Tel: 01912330766 Vietnamese dishes

INDONESIA

Hung Ky Mi Gia 5237 El Cajon Blvd, San Diego, CA 92115; Tel: (1) 619-229-2188 Serves noodle varieties with prices starting at $5 per dish Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

International Restaurant 1 4444 – A University Ave, San Diego, CA 92115 Tel: (1) 619-281-9999 Little Saigon 7 Linden Ave (Railroad) South San Francisco, CA 94080 Tel: (1) 650-589-1398 New York-NY Saigon Grill 620 Amsterdam Ave, New York, NY 10024 Tel: (1) 212-875-9072 Serves over 100 Vietnamese dishes including vegetarian options Open 11 a.m. to 12 a.m.

Mai Lan Vietnamese 505 N State St Syracuse, NY 13203 Tel: (1) 315-471-6740 www.mailanrestaurant.com L’Annam 121 University Pl New York, NY 10022 Tel: (1) 212-420-1414 VIRGINIA-VA Minh’s Vietnamese 2500 Wilson Blvd Arlington, VA 22201 Tel: (1) 703-525-2828 Prices start at $15 per dish Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (closed on Mondays) WASHINGTON-WC Ho Bac 1314 S Jackson St Seattle, WA 98144 Tel: (1) 206-860-8164 Kieu Nga Lemongrass Restaurant VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

• 57

Clockwise from top: Hue girls; H’Mong women in Dak Nong Province; Cock fighting in a festival in Thai Binh Province; Hoopoes in Phan Thiet, Binh Thuan Province

58 • VIETNAM HERITAGE - AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 2014

Photo: Nguyen Duy Dong

Photo: Pham Van Thanh

Photo: Nguyen Quoc Huy

Photo: Hoang Manh Cuong

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