Vietnam Heritage April-May 2017 by Vietnam Heritage

2:7 APR-MAY 2017

Celebrating Vietnam's most famous garment

CONTENT No 2, VOL.7, APRIL - MAY 2017

HISTORY

8 The solemn spirit of war and heroism AGRICULTURE

10 Heap of goodness AGRICULTURE

12 The kingdom of rice deity CLOTHING

14 Celebrating Vietnam's most famous garment THEATRE

18 An innovative Vietnamese musical FOOD

20 Wax coconut is worth the trip TRAVEL

24 Nature’s palette on display at Hang Rai FESTIVAL

26 Dressing up to pray for rain PEOPLE

28 The great Dick returns MUSIC

30 Songs of earth and heaven OCCUPATION

32 The mussel men (and women) 34 VALUE FOR MONEY 36 EVENTS 39 DIRECTIONS

Cover photograph: Photo from Si Hoang Show provided by Ao dai Museum Published by the Cultural Heritage Association of Vietnam

Publication licence No: 1648/GP-BTTTT from the Ministry of Information and Communications of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam for the English-language edition of The Gioi Di San (The World of Heritage) magazine Editor-in-Chief: Le Thanh Hai; Public Relations Director: Bui Thi Hang Managing Editor: Kha Tu Anh; Sub-editing: Erik Johnson; Assistant: Van Thanh Nga, Nguyen Dang Khoa; Designer: Thanh Mai; Contributing Photographers: Nguyen Ba Han, Hoang Quoc Tuan, Hoang The Nhiem, Huynh Van Nam, Le Hoai Phuong, Nguyen Anh Tuan; Ngo Nguyen Huynh Trung Tin; Nguyen Ba Ngoc Correspondent: Pip de Rouvray; Advertising and Circulation: Green Viet Advertising JSC Email: tapchidisanvietnam@gmail.com & vnheritagemagazine@gmail.com; Thuy Phuong 0969 47 3579 Hanoi Advertising and Subscription: The He Moi MHN Viet Nam Co.Ltd, Mr Song Hao: 0903 476 999 Nha Trang Advertising and Subscription: Bach Cat Co. Ltd,; 22/6A Bach Dang Str. Nha Trang City Tel: (58) 360 7070 Fax (58) 387 0099, Email: bachcatprco.ltd@gmail.com Contact in the US for subscription and advertising: 2628 Sturla dr. San Jose, CA 95148

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Bram Disguising bram, the last persons allowed to leave in a Grave Abandoning Festival of Jarai Central Highlands, March 2015 Photo: Nguyen Linh Vinh Quoc

HISTORY

The solemn spirit of war and heroism

TEXT BY LE MINH THANG AND PHOTOS BY VU DUNG

ocated at the estuary of Bach Dang River, just 20km from downtown Hai Phong Bach Dang Giang relic site (Trang Kenh – Thuy Nguyen) has become Hai Phong’s largest complex of historical, cultural and spiritual monuments, as well as an attractive tourist destination. Bach Dang estuary is a special place, the

site of three great naval clashes, a symbol of the spirit and heroism of a small nation that fought for freedom multiple times against stronger aggressors. The first battle took place in 938BC, when the Southern Han’s 20,000-strong navy, led by Hoang Thao, attacked us from the sea. When the news came, Ngo Quyen gathered his generals and prepared to fight the enemy.

He instructed his troops to sharpen one end of wooden logs, cover them with iron, and plant them in Bach Dang riverbed. At high tide, the logs were hidden under the water. Our troops then used hit-and-run tactics to lure the Chinese fleet into the log field. As the water receded, the Chinese ships got stuck in the ambush. Our men sprang on them from the banks and small boats

A mock-up of a naval battle on Bach Dang River

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HISTORY

navigable between the logs. After this victory, Ngo Quyen proclaimed himself King and restored the sovereign nation of Vietnam. The Bach Dang victory was considered our declaration of independence after a millennium under Chinese rule. In 981, the Song Chinese invaded our country again. Their navy, led by Hau Nhan Bao, came upstream to Luc Dau Giang, lost a battle there and retreated toward Bach Dang. Le Hoan had his troops plant wooden logs on the riverbed to wait for them. Again, hit-and-run tactics helped lure the Chinese into the trap just as the tide went low. Their ships pierced through, their men crushed, even their top commander Hau Nhan Bao killed, the Chinese navy was completely. This was the second Bach Dang victory that eternalized King Le Dai Hanh’s name. The third Bach Dang battle is attached to the name of Tran Quoc Tuan, titled Prince of Hung Dao, who helped the Tran Kings to defeat the Mongolian Yuan armies. It was in 1288, when Mongolian hordes dominated the world, enslaved China and terrorized Europe. Having been twice beaten in our country, indignant and bewildered, they decided to try a third time. A tidal wave of 50,000 strong Yuan navy under Omar’s command moved into river estuaries of Hai Phong. History recorded that ‘Great Viet army groups ambushed them from behind caves and rocks, in small

rivulets and on the banks of the Trang Kenh and Quang Yen Rivers. The same tactics worked to lure the enemy ships into the fields of sharpened logs for the main force to attack in a major crushing counteroffensive at low tide. Over 400 ships and the commanders Omar and Siragi were captured...’ Many people feel that the remaining relics are not enough to reflect the historical greatness of the Bach Dang victories. With that in mind, some dedicated people have made great efforts to create a complex of monuments to display the grandeur of the country’s spirit. In just a short time, a series of big projects have been put in place at Bach Dang Giang relic site. First came a group of three big temples attached to the names of the nation’s three great military commanders; King Le Dai Hanh, National Regulator Tran Quoc Tuan (titled Prince of Hung Dao), and King Ngo Quyen. All three temples follow an ancient architectural style and were built with timber and rocks under the shade of age-old trees, along hill slopes and river banks. A man from Minh Duc township named Mr Vu Duc H. said, ‘Unlike at other construction sites, every year, Bach Dang Giang relic site gets enough investment to have new additions to the complex, fulfilling the aspiration of contributing visitors. As of

now, besides the HANOI Hai above- mentioned Phong temples, the relic site has also a temple for HCM Chairman Ho Chi City Minh, a museum with plans and mock-ups of the three historical battles, a temple of the Mother-of-the-Land, and a Buddhist pagoda above all that. Most recently, a very wide road was completed, which leads to intricately carved stone bridges that add to the monumental grandeur of three majestic statues of the military commanders towering over the river. Beneath them the log fields have also been restored,’ According to the site’s management, in the first half of the first lunar month this year, they have received over 110,000 visitors. This lunar year, besides the Spring festival, the Tran temple Seal Opening Festival on the 14th and the anniversary of King Le Dai Hanh’s death on the 18th of the first lunar month, to satisfy visitors’ aspiration, the relic site will organize many other commemoration ceremonies on the occasions of Vesak in the 15th of the 4th lunar month, Mother’s day on the 15th of the 7th lunar month, and the anniversary of Prince Tran Quoc Tuan’s death on the 20th of the 8th lunar month.n

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AGRICULTURE

Heap of goodness

TEXT BY LE THI AND PHOTO BY LE DUC THANH

A fading symbol of the past, the thatch heap was once highly important oday we rarely see a thatch heap, even in a purely agricultural countryside. But just a few decades ago, thatch heaps were a symbol of the Vietnamese countryside. Every household had at least one, and people utilized the thatch in their daily lives. The size of the thatch heaps may be a good indicator of a region’s level of production and development. Big thatch heaps mean good soil, good weather, hard work and wealth. The size may change from one place to another and from one year to the next. Some love to joke that the thatch is also an indicator of ‘class’, as they show if the owner is rich or poor. A poor family’s heap is usually small. The bigger the heap, the richer the owner, because he must have big fields which can yield good crops. The heaps even reflect the owner’s ‘character.’ Thatch heaps of artistic people or those who love showing off are often shaped like a mushroom, while those of downto-earth, practical people always look like a bamboo shoot, tall and

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firm. Mushroom-like heaps look impressive and attractive, but are difficult to build and easily destroyed by chickens. Bamboo-shoot like ones, on the other hand, stand firm, are less time-consuming to build, and the chickens would have a hard time picking and pulling at the straws. In my native village, thatch was very important. It was cattle food in stormy days and in winter when grass is too short for them. Buffalos and oxen were a major work force that helped plough the fields, and they couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do without this food source. In many places, thatch was also used as kitchen fuel. But in my village, that was considered a waste, because thatch was not in abundance and it was thought that it should not be used in such an uneconomical way. Thatch was also used to make mattresses, nests for hens, and to cushion things for transportation. And the best way to reserve this multipurpose resource was to heap it up. After the cut rice bundles are brought home, grains are plucked by threshing or letting cattle stamp on the bundle, of which the latter way is the best, because it makes the straws softer and drier. Then the thatch is spread in the courtyard and on the village streets to dry for a few days, during which time it must be turned over several times to make sure all the straws are dried equally. When the thatch is dried and turns from yellow to whitish, it is stacked up to make room for another batch of thatch until all the collected thatch is dried. Only then do households start to build their thatch heaps. Heaping thatch is a combination of technique and art. Technique helps make the heap tight, tall and almost waterproof and thus keep it from rotting. As the straws are pulled out from the base for consumption, the heap stands firm. The art makes it round and symmetric and have the desired form. It takes quite some time and work. As kids, we used to wait all year, looking forward to the thatch heaping day. It marked the end of a harvest, when both the adults and kids could relax a bit and have a few good meals. There was always a meal with meat and fish, Quang noodles, sticky rice and sweet pudding. Notably on the day of thatch-heaping, rice vermicelli

was on the menu. It was not homemade, but traded 2-3 baskets of un-husked rice could be traded for a basket of vermicelli. Rice gleaned by kids on the fields could also be traded. Thatch heaps were part of our childhood. They were where we kept our breath, burying ourselves in the game of hide and seek, where we found a little warmth in cold winter days, and where sweet fragrance came from, which softly lulled us into dreams.n

AGRICULTURE

The kingdom of the rice deity Granaries of the Xe Dang people far from their village in Kon Tum Province. Photo: Nguyen Quang Vinh

BY NGUYEN THANH

welling at the foot of Ngoc Linh Mountain, Quang Nam Province, the Xe Dang people value rice above most other things. At the end of each harvest, families and villages pray to the rice deity and place rice into a granary. Their granaries are built far from the village and not guarded, but the rice is never stolen. Village elders say that people used to live in stilted houses with a fire always kept inside. Village fires often broke out when everybody was busy in the fields. Also, villages were always located near river banks and often suffered from flooding and landslides. That’s why they had to build their granaries far away from the village.

Receiving the rice spirit

Elder Ho Van Xat from Tra Linh Commune, South Tra My told us, ‘The rice deity is very important and revered in the spiritual life of the Xe Dang people. It is believed that good crops are awarded by Him and bad crops are a punishment or reprimand from Him. After each harvest, Xe Dang people have a granary festival to pray to their

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gods and to receive the rice deity to the granary to rest.’ In the granary festival, Xe Dang people make horn cakes, pot wine, bamboo tube rice and kill pigs and chickens to consecrate to the gods and to treat their neighbors. The celebration moves from house to house. Some wealthy villages even beat gongs to make it livelier. The consecration and reception of the rice spirit at the granary is very formal and ceremonial. Only the elders have the right to conduct this important ritual. The Xe Dang still preserve the custom of stretching a cord to bring the rice spirit to the granary. They believe the rice spirit will follow the cords and the marks along the way to come to rest at the granary and enjoy their gratitude. Having prepared a nice berth for the rice deity in the granary, villagers begin to party from house to house, and from village to village. They have fun, get drunk and forget about their days of hardship.

Rice never stolen

Remarkably, although Xe Dang granaries are far away from their

AGRICULTURE Hanoi

Quang Nam HCM city

Left: Rice kept in the granary where it is believed that the rice deity resides. Bottom: A dance of the Xe Dang people in the granary festival. Photo: Nguyen Thanh

village without any protection, the rice is never stolen. Each family uses rice from their own granary, without ever touching another family’s rice. The granaries became a symbol of a village’s wealth and unity. A village or a family with many granaries is surely one with happy life. Mr Dinh Van Yen of Tra Vinh Commune said, ‘a granary is a household’s fortune, earned with sweat and hard work. So, the people highly respect each other’s rice. Since time immemorial Xe Dang villages instituted strict rules to eradicate bad intention. A villager who has committed theft will be fined a cow, a buffalo or a pig. Repeated felony is punished by banishment. Villagers deeply fear the rules and punishments and never touch other people’s property, even a grain of rice. That’s why in highland communes such as Tra Linh, and Tra Cang, the rudimentary granaries stand firm and calm through time and weather. They are kept even cleaner and tidier than people’s houses.’

Community awareness

Today in South Tra My, besides the households’ granaries, the Xe Dang people have come up with the idea of having a common granary. After each crop, households contribute a part of their rice and maize to help those in need and to use in turbulent times. They have also learned to use new building materials instead of bamboo and thatch to better preserve the precious provisions. As science and technology were introduced, many households now have to have as many as three granaries to stack up their yield. But rudimentary or strong and advanced, the granary today is still believed to be the kingdom of the rice deity. And so people value and respect every grain of rice. n APRIL 2017 - MAY 2017

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CLOTHING

Celebrating Vietnam's most famous garment

TEXT BY PIP DE ROUVRAY AND PHOTOS BY NHAN DUC

ome years ago, this magazine ran a cover story of Ho Chi Minh City's Ao Dai Museum, which tells the history and displays the glorious diversity of designs and patterns of Vietnam's iconic long dress — the ao dai. The museum is set around a lake with stunning gardens and atmospheric replicas of traditional buildings and is well worth the trouble of getting out to its far-flung location on an island in District Nine. The place is currently under renovation, so you will be able to visit again sometime in April. However you can still enjoy most of what it has to offer without the expense of a costly taxi ride or a time-consuming bus journey. Right in the heart of the city on Nguyen Hue Boulevard, occupying two floors of a building, an Ao Dai exhibition centre and workshop has been opened. The shop is located at number 77. You will know you have got the right place, as there is a display of old Singer sewing machines in the open doorway. A friendly concierge will usher you into a lift to reception on the second floor. It was here that I was met by my guide Miss Nghi, who spoke beautiful English and who also, fittingly, was robed in a stunning bright red ao dai. Our first stop was to admire the very large restored ao dai worn by the last Emperor of Vietnam, Bao Dai, at his coronation in 1926. He was only thirteen at the time and the size and in particular the voluminous sleeves would have made him appear grander than he actually was. The colours — brown and gold — have had their original vibrancy renewed after all these years. It is a reminder, too, that the ao dai is for both sexes though that is truer for the past. I myself possess a male ao dai. I only wear it once a year at Tet, though I have to say I find it a little cumbersome and uncomfortable to wear. We moved on to a line the of ao dais on mannequins

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demonstrating the history and versatility of the garment. We started with its precursor, a four-piece dress of the seventeenth century from the North. The next on show is even more complicated, with five pieces. Here I learned an interesting fact. All ao dais have five buttons and they symbolise the five virtues of humility, civility, gratitude, intellect, and credibility. Soon we see a more familiar twopiece long dress and clearly we can see how the ao dai was modified and reinvented to appeal to successive generations. At one point there is a distinct French influence and in the seventies even a flamboyant hippie version with beads was in vogue. The final one takes care to include the weaving traditions of the ethnic minorities. There is another line of around ten ao dais showing how the robe can be modified to absorb the characteristics of other countries. The Filipino ao dai with its long sleeves and the Korean and Japanese versions showing touches of the kimono and the Indian cross between an ao dai and a sari are all quite guessable. Other gowns such as the American and French are less obvious. Then there is a display of children's ao dais. It is not the style but the patterns here. They are all based on the prize winners of a painting competition for children. They are really very charming. Be sure to go upstairs to the workshop. It is a beehive of activity with people engaged in the sewing, embroidery and painting stages of the production of bespoke designer ao dais. The finished gowns awaiting collection are on display mannequins. They cost from thirty million dongs-that is around $1,400. If that figure is more than you are able or willing to pay why not buy a souvenir collector ao dai plastic or cloth doll. They are very attractive and there is a wide range of them for sale back in the exhibition. They come in a multitude of styles, including some

CLOTHING

blonde Barbie - like dolls in Vietnamese dress. They are priced at from VND800,000 to VND1,200,000 for the plastic dolls and from VND100,000 to VND250,000 for the cloth ones. There are also ties sporting the designs for VND1,500,000. A few nights later, I returned to see the Si Hoang Ao Dai show, Mr Si Hoang being the greatest living designer of the dress. It takes place in a long hall just beyond the exhibition itself. It has been made to look like a performance hall in the Emperor's ancient palace in Hue with a series of columns, a mock leaf pattern wooden roof and subdued lighting. You feel as if you are among a select group of royal courtiers invited to watch. It is called a show but it mostly transcends this description to be an extremely colourful pageant. Do not imagine a boring series of processions along a catwalk. The models are shown in real life situations - in the street and at the market for example. Fashion models both male and female often look shallow and unintelligent, to me at least. The young folk displaying the splendorous outfits here are fresh-faced and bright! There is superb music played on traditional instruments and also a variety of Vietnamese dance. Everyone in the show including musicians wears some form of ao dai. This includes Si Hoang himself, who sports a very smart ao dai male suit. He introduces and explains the acts and scenes of which a brief summary of each now ensues. 1. A striking rumbustious opening by an ensemble of musicians playing large and small percussion instruments. 2. Further music - a duet between a flautist and the player of a traditional instrument of strings mounted vertically on a bamboo tube, the sounds evocative of woodland bird song. 3. Bamboo and stone xylophone music as various market sellers,

one notably of areca nuts. show their wares and rustic ao dais. 4. A solo song performance accompanied by a mandolin by a seated male musician as his elegantly clad female muse wanders around him. Eventually the contented couple walk off hand in hand. 5. A musical quintet featuring two very richly dressed ladies playing ceramic cups to the effect of castanets finishing with a graceful dance. 6. A street scene of young people of both sexes all enjoying themselves out an evening promenade. They are from different historical times showing the evolution of the ao dai. Yes,even the footwear styles throughout the ages are shown. Particularly prominent for me were the French era couples and those in hippie ao dai wearing psychedelic sunglasses. 7. Next we see ao dai wearers in the context of a busy street market with sellers with bamboo poles and baskets and even s bicycle rider sailing by. 8. The next act though exciting seems a little out of place. A drunken man staggers on to stage, puts down his bottle and belts out a heartfelt song. He is soon accompanied by two half naked rough chaps who wrestle and dance about. 9. Then comes another percussion extravaganza with frenzied play on a large red drum at its centre. I imagined they were trying to drive out demons. 10. Subsequently Si Hoang announces he would like to pay homage to the fifty four country's minority peoples and outcome players wearing the costumes of, as my companion counted twenty four of them - very picturesque indeed! 11. A final act has to leave you with something ringing in your ears and that is what certainly happens here. Under the eyes of actors dressed as Ancient Egyptians out comes a stone xylophone and a musician APRIL 2017 - MAY 2017

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CLOTHING

dressed in a shaman's ao dai. His playing ranges from rallentando at times to downright absolutely frenetic. At times it is rivalled by a female playing the much more common upright bamboo xylophone in the background. The whole performance is a total tour- de-force! Then on comes the entire cast to bow and take the curtain call. To sum up we now have in the centre of the country's commercial capital a place to appreciate what has become the national dress of Vietnam. If you have the time available I would still urge you to trek out to the Ao Dai Museum to get a fuller explanation and experience in a beautiful clean air country setting. Si Hoang's show will further allow you to enjoy the ao dai in all its social, cultural and historical settings.

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The Ao Dai Exhibition, Workshop and Si Hoang Ao Dai Show are at 77 Nguyen Hue Street, District1, HCMC, Tel: (08) 6683-2740. Admission for the exhibition is VND100,000. Admission for the show is at VND700,000 and VND800,000. Show times 8.30 p.m. to 10p.m. Four shows weekly. n

Áo Dài House: 107 Dong Khoi Str, Dist 1, HCMC . Áo Dài Exhibition/ Si Hoang Workshop: 75-77 Nguyen Hue Str, Dist 1, HCMC. Áo Dài Museum: 206/19/30 Long Thuan Str, Long Phuoc Ward, Dist 9, HCMC. Tel: (08) 66832740 - 0938391208

THEATRE

An innovative Vietnamese musical BY PIP DE ROUVRAY

t is the first show in Vietnam to step out of line with following traditional Vietnamese formats and yet it retains its Vietnamese essence whilst absorbing international elements. First shown in October of last year to both critical and popular acclaim, the musical ‘Giang Huong’ returned to the stage at the Saigon Opera House for three nights in March, 2017. With elements familiar to the average Westerner and indeed billed as the first Vietnamese show based on Broadway or London West End lines, I was lucky enough to be invited along. The story concerns a bored fairy who

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strays into the underworld and starts a love affair with a mortal-village mandarin who quits his job to try to find her again. This is very familiar theme to the westerner dating back to Greek mythology. Shakespeare, of course, made remarkable comedy out of it in ‘A Midsummer Night's Dream’. Here, it is the weakest part of the entertainment with a convoluted plot and constant bemoaning from the lovers. It is only enlivened by an interesting scene in which the mandarin is Rip Van Winklelike projected into modern day Vietnam and meets some young children who only know him only as legend. There is also a

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subplot, equally universal, of the young woman having to choose between a husband chosen for her who is rich and powerful but nasty and the man whom she really loves and who adores her. Another interesting aspect of this musical is the sisterly solidarity among the fairies in aiding Giang Huong's search for a solution to her seemingly impossible love. This gives rise to one of the best songs consummately sung by Tuong Phung Tran Nguyen and entitled 'Seven Shades of the Rainbow.' After many trials and tribulations, the story reaches a sensational climax concluding with a

THEATRE happy outcome for the couple through, without giving too much of the game away to you, the unselfish sacrifice of a sister fairy. It is only my view if I did not like the story of course or the treatment of the themes. Luckily, the story is not what makes a musical great and everything else was absolutely fabulous. They have selected the very best singers both male and female. They are a delight to listen to. The sixteen songs too are very melodic. I imagine they are original although one was familiar to me as the song you always hear at Tet time. There are two screens at each side of the stage that give running English translation. I was seated at the back and with normal sight I could read this easily. The lyrics may give insight into the current taste in poetic lines in Vietnam. They would be over-

sentimental for most westerners. For example we have ‘In my memory your eyes are two wells of moonlight’ and ‘My love is like a warm spring breeze. The sun is gently kissing you. And sending a flame into your eyes.’ As for the tunes most are recognisably Vietnamese but some include Latin, Jazz and even K-Pop influences. They have got everything else exactly right. As we are used to seeing in purely cultural shows, the costumes are gorgeous and traditional. The lighting is great and used to enhance the poetic quality of the dialogue and lyrics. The choreography is brilliant. In particular the piece in which the fairy sisters dance and float around like shining butterflies will remain etched on my memory forever. The sets, whilst fairly simple, paint picturesque settings for the scenes.

To be sure, the Vietnamese certainly do know how to put on a jolly good show. I really hope they will stage this one a lot more in the future. This show is both innovative and hopefully seminal and I hope it will spark of a new Vietnamese tradition. I look forward to seeing musicals that centre around contemporary themes and the concerns and challenges facing modern Vietnamese society. The performance I saw had an audience ninety-five per cent of locals. Modern Vietnamese theatre is of such high quality that it deserves to be enjoyed by the wider world. I hope this article does its little bit to attract this attention. The bottom line is that this is a colourful and enjoyable spectacle. It is well worth your time and is very good value for money at less than ten dollars equivalent for the cheapest ticket.n

W W W.YENSAOKHANHHOA.COM.VN APRIL 2017 - MAY 2017

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FOOD

WAX COCONUT IS WORTH THE TRIP

BY PIP DE ROUVRAY

here is not a lot to see or do in Tra Vinh Province. There is some quintessentially Mekong countryside — vivid green rice fields and water coconut palms. Many Khmer still live here and their pagodas with their steep horned roofs spiking the sky are a treat for the eye. For the bird watcher this is prime stork country. The eponymous capital town is not much to write home about, but it is a place to relax and soak up the Mekong atmosphere. I put up at the unimaginatively named Mekong Hotel (Cuu Long). Spick and span with a sumptuous buffet breakfast in a beautiful garden, it was the best place I stayed at on my Mekong tour. I took a stroll around the Ba Om square pond and found nothing special, but it does have a good legend attached to it. The local men and the women decided to have a competition to see who could build a lake the fastest over the course of one night. A woman called Ba Om tricked the men into drinking while the women kept on digging and won. But there is one very good reason for

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Photo: Internet

making a trip out to this rather remote province. There is a kind of coconut unique to this area — and in fact only in one district of the province, namely Cau Ke — that is just pure heaven for the palate. It is called ‘dừa sáp’ which can be translated as the wax coconut though it is also known as the candle coconut. Further adding to its rarity is that fact that only one in more than twenty coconuts growing on a tree will be a dừa sáp. Not surprisingly, it is expensive. One coconut goes for around 200,000 dongs, which makes it twenty times as expensive as an ordinary coconut Regarding its availability, I asked my students from Tra Vinh. You can find it in Ho Chi Minh City, they informed me, but not in any market. You have to go to the depot of an agent. I was in Tra Vinh town on a business trip and was lucky enough to be invited by my hosts to try some wax coconut. Some say it tastes like a soft cream cheese. Yes, it has the look and the texture of cheese. However, I would say the taste whilst definitely very yummy is quite unique and incomparable. The waxy shining appearance is also very attractive.

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There is almost no liquid-nearly a hundred per cent coconut meat. This fruit goes very nicely with cakes or dessert. Made into a pulp it is can be a tasty thick drink with other fruit mixed in. At this point I should add in Vietnam it may be unique to Tra Vinh, but it is more abundantly found in the Philippines where it is known as Macapuno. Over there they have Macapuno-favoured ice cream and they use it sometimes in a popular shaved ice drink known as halo halo. Until the 1950s in the Philippines, this kind of coconut was discarded, as it does not convert to copra and yields no oil The dừa sáp then is a kind of freak coconut or more scientifically put a mutant. People have tried to grow it outside Cau Ke District of Tra Vinh Province, but with no success. It is certainly hoped that scientists will study this more and find a way to increase production and make it affordable so we shall find it many markets and everyone will be able to enjoy the delicious taste. For now, I highly recommend that you seek it out on your Mekong tour. n

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RELIGION

A sacred pagoda of the high society TEXT BY DUC CHANH AND PHOTOS BY TRAN THU HA

ran Quoc is the name of Hanoi’s oldest and most sacred pagoda. Nearly 1500 years old, it used to receive kings in Buddhist memorial days and host famous Buddhist monks who came here to practice their religion. Occupying a promontory at the northwest corner of the West Lake in Yen Phu ward, West Lake district of Hanoi, Tran Quoc has been officially recognised as a national relic of history and culture since 1989. According to the Vietnam Cultural Heritage Dictionary, ‘Originally named Khai Quoc (meaning ‘Nation Founding’) Tran Quoc was built during King Ly Nam De’s (544–548) reign in Yen Hoa Village. In 1615, it was moved to what used to be the foundation of Thuy Hoa back hall and Han Nguyen Palace near Yen Phu dyke, the previous Kings’ favourite place for fishing and relaxation. From 1624 to 1639, Khai Quoc was continually expanded and later King Le Hy

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Tong renamed it Tran Quoc. The beginning of the Nguyen Dynasty (1802- 1945) the pagoda was renovated and acquired a bigger bell and Buddha statues. In 1821, King Minh Mang visited it and gave 20 silver taels for its renovation. In 1842, King Thieu Trị also visited Tran Quoc and contributed one big gold coin and 200 quan (the currency of the time).’ Tran Quoc was like a spiritual anchor for the nation and its kings. Historical texts also recorded that Tran Quoc had hosted famous Buddhist monks such as His Venerable Khuong Viet Chan Luu and High Zen Priests Van Phong, Thao Duong, Thong Bien, Giac Quan and Quang Te. Having been renovated multiple times, Tran Quoc architecture shows ‘harmonious continuity between historical eras,’ as noted by cultural experts. The main architectural units of Tran Quoc pagoda includes the

RELIGION

Tran Quoc is a spiritual anchor for the nation and its kings

Front Hall, Incense Ward, Upper Edifice, Bell Tower, Ancestral Shrine and House of Steles. The experts don’t mention much about the carvings and artwork at Tran Quoc. They simply remark that ‘some details are painstakingly well done.’ About the overall architectural and scenic values of the pagoda, the general opinion is that the antic solemn structures in sternly strict arrangement according to the ancient Buddhist rules and the dreaminess of the West Lake highlight each other well. Perhaps that’s why the British Daily Mail ranks Tran Quoc among the world’s 15 most beautiful Buddhist pagodas. Having witnessed so many historical ups and downs, the pagoda preserves valuable artefacts, such as the statues in the Upper Edifice, especially the one of Shakyamuni Buddha entering Nirvana, unique and meticulously made in a distinct fashion. The 14 steles with

engraved texts about the foundation and history of the pagoda, including the steles of Ha Noi famous scholars Nguyen Xuan Chinh (15871693) and Pham Quy Thich (1760-1825), are also considered highly valuable. Behind the pagoda’s entrance is a ‘garden HCM City of towers’ with many old and new towers. Most attention is drawn to the 11-storey, 15mtall Six Heaven Tower that houses many Amitabha statues made of precious stones, with 9 layers of stone carved lotuses at the top. Amid the 500ha of West Lake, the pagoda’s 3000 m2 garden stands prominently under the shade of many tree species such as mountain pomegranates, longans, willows, etc. Buddhists revere the banyan tree planted by President Rajendra Prasad of India when he visited Tran Quoc in 1959. n APRIL 2017 - MAY 2017

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TRAVEL

Nature’s palette on display at Hang Rai TEXT BY KHANH LE; PHOTOS BY NGUYEN TAN TUAN

FROM THE ROCKS TO THE SEA TO THE PLANT LIFE, OTTER LAIR PAINTS A PRETTY PICTURE.

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n recent years, Hang Rai (Otter Lair) became a famous place that has mesmerized many tourists and photographers for its mythical, untouched beauty, especially at dusk and dawn. Hang Rai is actually a seashore field of myriads of rocks and stones of all shapes and sizes overlaying each other above and under the water, just outside the famous Nui Chua (Lord’s Mountain) National Park. Spreading over 29,865 ha, which includes 7,352 ha of sea water, Nui Chua National Park is one of the most unique ‘drought forests’ of Vietnam, and perhaps of Southeast Asia too, one that houses a diverse fauna and flora system. From the Phan Rang city of Cham Towers, follow the beautiful coastline highway to Tri Thuy Bridge, turn right to Provincial Highway 702, go 35km, and one will see Hang Rai at Thai An Village, Vinh Hai Commune, Ninh Hai District of Ninh Thuan Province. Looking from afar, one may be disappointed at the sight of dark, unassuming rugged terrain. But coming nearer, visitors get more and more excited by the fabulously arranged rocks and stones that stand there for millions of years, proudly facing nature’s elements. The colours alone at Hang Rai are enough to envoke wild associations. Some even think that this place reminds them of Mars’ surface.

TRAVEL

Wave after wave rams onto the rocks, throwing up white, foaming masses that look like dead coral reefs. As the waves recede, water oozes from between the rocks and stones as if squeezed out of a sponge. Sunlight also has its effect on the colours and shades of Hang Rai, making it change constantly from glorious morning to dreamy evening. As the first rays of the sun paint the horizon rose and reflect on Hang Rai stones, the whole scenery becomes otherworldly and surreal. Many tramping sightseers and professional photographers camp overnight here just to catch this glorious moment. A seasoned photographer named Trung said, ‘Hang Rai is most alluring from Nov. to Feb. when the sea is rough. It’s the algae and sea weeds that do the magic. Masses of seaweed that grow on the rocks beneath the water look like enormous emerald carpets and dance nonstop with the waves. The algae also change the shades of sea water as the sun makes its journey through the sky. Here and there, big rocks build up dykes to embank natural pools of calm and cool water, so refreshing that even the hydrophobic feel the urge to take a dip In addition, Hang Rai is surrounded by huge coral reefs. With just some simple diving gear, one can submerge into the deep blue to see the spectacular hidden treasures of the ocean. n

One can combine exploring Hang Rai and Nui Chua National Park with many other exciting activities, such as watching sea turtles lay their eggs, hiking to the 1039m-high peak of Nui Chua, seeing particularities of a drought forest, learning the lifestyle and customs of Raglai ethnicity, visiting Ving Hy Bay just a few kilometers from Hang Rai, scuba diving or seeing coral reefs from glass bottom boats.

Hanoi

Ninh Thuan HCM City

To book a tour, please contact the Ecotourist Center of the Nui Chua National Park Management: Tel: (068) 3507613 / Mobile: 0946720697 (Ms Quynh) - 0913.658474 (Mr Xiem) / Email: vqgnuichua@gmail.com

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FESTIVALS

Dressing up to pray for rain BY DUC THANG

Lolo villagers oďŹ&#x20AC;er up their best to seek the favour of the gods

raying for rain is a tradition of many of the 54 ethnicities in Vietnam, although it is quite different from one minority to another. One of the most ancient, most unique and best-known by the wider world is that of Lolo communities in Meo Vac District of Ha Giang Province. The Lolo ethnic group has a population of about 5,000 people scattered in many provinces, mainly in Ha Giang Province (about 1,500 people) and Cao Bang Province (nearly 2,500 people). They have a rich folklore which includes songs, dances and sagas. They worship their ancestors and believe that everything in the world has a soul.

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FESTIVALS Taking part in a Lolo rain prayer can be combined with exploring the remote Meo Vac District (bordering China). You can visit Sang Pa A, a typical Lo Lo village, and famous places such as Nho Que River, Tu Sang Chasm, and Ma Pi Leng Pass. If possible, you should also stay a little longer in Meo Vac to see the Khau Vai Love bazaar, where young men and girls gather to seek a life companion, on the 27th of the 3rd lunar month, an event that takes place only once a year.

Left and right: At the Praying For Rain Festival of the Lolo people, Ha Giang Province. Photos: Vu To Hao

Ha Giang Province. Photo: Tran Binh An

The most striking feature of Lolo Ha Giang people is their ornamental brocades. Hanoi Their festive dresses, especially those of the women, are perhaps the most colourful and intricately made in Vietnam. HCM City Lolo rain prayer festival usually takes place on the 15th, 17th or 19th of the 3rd lunar month at Sang Pa A Village of Meo Vac township. The purpose is, of course, to pray to the gods, heaven and earth, to beg for good weather, good crops and health. This is also an occasion for villagers to gather and talk common business and for young people to exchange signals of affection. In the past, rich families bore the expenses of festivities for the whole village. Today, almost everybody contributes what they can, including chickens, dogs, rice and wines to the village head or shaman. On the day of the ritual, all the contributions are brought to a large clearance in the village centre or near the paddies. Live sacrificial animals are tied to the ritual altar. The ritual host, usually a highly reputed elder or shaman, begins the day by asking permission from the forefathers. As the host finishes the introduction, young men take the dogs and chicken out to make them into food. Then the prepared food is arranged on the altar table with wines, a sword and four bamboo incense pipes representing four directions of the universe. Having double-checked that the offerings are ready, the host begins long melodic prayers in the Lolo language, accompanied by two-string violins and a bronze drum, a Lolo sacred treasure. Villagers in their colourful festive dresses stand respectfully and solemnly around the host while he is communicating with the spiritual world. The prayers end by the host burning votive paper at the corners of the altar, sprinkling wine to the four directions and thanking heaven and earth. Villagers begin a lavish feast with chicken, dog meat and homebrewed drinks. As the drinks elevate their mood to a high level, beautifully dressed young men and girls tighten their circle to play twostring violins, dance and sing ancient tunes praising the land and the love between men and women.n APRIL 2017 - MAY 2017

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PEOPLE

The Great Dick Returns BY HA NGUYEN

RICHARD HUGHES, A CLOSE FRIEND OF VIETNAM AND THE PEOPLE, STILL

LABORS TO HELP VICTIMS OF THE WAR

merican actor Richard ‘Dick’ Hughes appeared to be a great man during the war time as he helped street boys in old Saigon. Today, Hughes strong will remains in assisting Vietnamese disadvantaged people.

The great friend of bụi đời kids

In 1968, Hughes was a conscientious objector. He refused to join the US army to come to Vietnam with a gun. Instead, he decided to come to the wartime country with a helping hand. ‘At that time, I determined to come to the country to do something good for the people who were suffering from the war,’ he recalled. Hughes borrowed 1,500 dollars from his friends and managed to get a press visa for his voyage to Saigon. Hughes formed Dispatch News Service, which was later known for the exclusive distribution of the story on the My Lai massacre. The chaotic Saigon gave Hughes many ideas, but

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Hughes (green shirt) in a meeting with USAID representatives in Vietnam last October. Photo credit Ha Nguyen

actually he did not know exactly where to begin until a conversation with a bụi đời (street boy), who later went home to live with Hughes. In the days after, Hughes allowed the street boys to live with him in his rented house in Pham Ngu Lao Street. ‘At first, I wanted to give them food and a place to sleep. Streets during wartime were so tough for them, wandering the whole day and night,’ he said. ‘My home had 11 boys at the beginning and later as many as 20.’ Later, with sound funds, Hughes formed Shoeshine Boys hostels, accommodating homeless children around the city. The project’s name was Shoeshine Boys, as many of the children working on shoe shining. In 1976, Hughes was forced to leave Vietnam and he handed over the project to his Vietnamese friends. At that time, the project adopted almost 1,500 children, including the handicapped. Hughes’ warm heart and extraordinary efforts during wartime saved lives of the

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children and gave them chance to be good people in life. To Thanh Trung, a street boy in the first generation raised in Hughes’ project, is now a manager of a company specializing in seedlings. Trung experienced hard life on Saigon streets selling newspaper and doing shoe shining at 12 until he met Hughes three years later. Hughes’ home saved his life and later he reunited with his father, who returned to Saigon from North Vietnam. Nguyen Ngoc Bich, who is currently working as chief in a grand hotel in Saigon, recalled that Hughes had invited Vietnamese to join his project in order to teach the children and helped them to have appropriate vocational choices. To Bich, self-reliance that he learnt from Hughes is the base for his success today. Back in the US, the Pittsburgh-born actor sought the way back to his career. After his graduation from Boston University Graduate School of Drama in 1967, Hughes

PEOPLE worked with the Theatre Company of Boston in several months before he left the country to Saigon. Hughes later got job on theatre plays and casting in some Hollywood works including The Manhattan Project by Marshall Brickman in 1986 and The Departed by Martin Scorsese in 2006. But the famed humanitarian work in old Saigon shadows over his main career and the boys have been always in his mind. In 2001, Hughes paid his first revisit to Vietnam after 25 years to reunite with the boys. ‘They are always in my mind and I want to have more time with the boys despite they are now older, have families and have their career,’ Hughes said about the drive for his third visit 2007, when he brought his family to Saigon for a reunion with the grewup Saigon shoeshine boys. On the way back to the US, Hughes moved into tears.

Vivid old man Dick works for AO victims

The feeling inside Hughes was that there is something has been done half way. ‘I don’t mean the shoeshine boys, but the war victims,’ he said. ‘I felt guilty for the impact of the war. Of course, in the past, I came with helping hands, but it’s not easy thinking about what Vietnamese people endured during the war.’

‘Eyes of the Agent Orange victims obsessed me.’

In 2003, Hughes was touched by eyes of AO-affected children that he found in the photo book on the war by his friend. The Welsh war photojournalist Philip Jones Griffiths’ book once again linked Hughes to Vietnam. Hughes later set up an office attempting to make people know more about pains that from AO victims be endured. ‘At first, I arrived in Saigon 1968, expecting to do something meaningful for people here but I didn’t do enough,’ Hughes explained during the fourth trip to Vietnam last October. Back in the US, Hughes continues contacting with US senators on the matter

Hughes posting with the shoeshine boys in old Saigon. Photo provided by Richard Hughes

of justice for victims of AO. He said he has been working with Democrat’s senator Sheldon Whitehouse, who used to pay visits to his children home on Pham Ngu Lao Street in Saigon in early 1970s. ‘The country gained peace for decades and people now live in happiness, but I have a big question how the AO victims can fit to this life,’ he said. He also set plans for the public to have

wider knowledge on AO and its victims. He will supply materials to television channels, including CBS. Hughes has a scheme to reach his starting point in Vietnam by preparing an article for The New York Times about AO and his October trip. Any progress made on the fight for AO victims will bring Hughes closer to Vietnamese, as a destiny that he sparked almost 50 years ago.n

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Songs MUSIC

of earth and heaven BY LE HOA KHANH

Millennial-old spiritual

songs and dances Mark

the seasons of village life

‘A

t the time of the founding of the nation (2879 - 258BC), as King Hung and two of his brothers were looking for a place to found a capital city, while passing Phu Duc and An Thai villages, the King saw kids wrestling, playing tug of war and singing happy songs. King Hung told his brothers to teach the kids many more happy and meaningful songs. Since then, on the 13th of the last lunar month each year, people make offerings to commemorate the Hung brothers’ legacy. They name King Hung the Eldest Saint. On the 2nd and 3rd of the first lunar month, Phu Duc villagers conduct a ritual to ask the Eldest Saint to make ‘people prosper, things reproduce, weather favourable, and crops abundant.’ On this occasion, they sing and play folk games to re-enact the scene of King Hung teaching song and dances. Over time, this became a yearly traditional activity of the village.’ This is just one of the many folk tales

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about the origins of xoan – a genre of folk songs recognized as a World’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. Xoan includes elements of music, song and dance that UNESCO found ‘deeply communal in the process of creation and passing from one generation to another.’ Culture experts tend to agree that xoan first appeared in the midland region of today’s Phu Tho Province, considered to be the cradle of the nation of Vietnam. The province has the Special National Relic Zone of Hung Temple, where people worship Hung Kings, the founders of the country of Van Lang (Vietnam today). ‘Folk tales and scientific research show that xoan appeared very early. Xoan tunes took their origins from the ancient halfmountain, half-plain villages at the heart of the Van Lang region of the times of Hung Kings. These were the tunes used in rituals of the prehistoric faith of agricultural communities, who worshipped Heaven,

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Earth and Gods that granted good weather and good crops. That’s why the spiritual aspects of xoan carry elements of the belief in production and reproduction cycles. Xoan is performed in religious ceremonies at village temple and during spring, which is the least busy time in the water rice cultivation cycle,’ according to the website of the Dept of Culture, Sport and Tourism of Phu Tho Province. Since ancient times, xoan troops have been formed in many villages of Phu Tho Province. Xoan troop is an organized group of 15-18 xoan singers related by family. Men wear long dresses, folded turbans, white pants and wooden flip-flops. Women wear five-panel dresses, raven-beak shawls, white shirts, red brassieres, waist bags, silk pants, silver necklace and wooden flip-flops. The head of a xoan troop is a coach and show organizer, serviced by young girl apprentices. Xoan troops usually are invited to perform in spring at village temples, and shrines.

A xoan tour to Vinh Phuc Province of An Thai Xoan Troops in Phu Tho Province, Photos: Vu Manh Cuong

Since 2013, every year on the Commemoration of Hung Kings on the 10th of the 3rd lunar month, the Centre for Tourist Operations of Phu Tho Province always organizes Xoan tours to ancient villages at the square of Hung Temple Relic Zone, in Hung Dynasty Museum in Viet Tri city, and at the ancient xoan villages of Kim Duc, Phuong Lau and Hung Lo. On these tours, visitors can also appreciate the age-old edifices of folk faith that have been hosting xoan performances for centuries. Today in Phu Tho Province, there are still some ancient-style xoan troops such as An Thai, Phu Duc, Kim Doi and Thet in Kim Duc and Phuong Lau Communes. Phu Tho authorities also say that there remain 10 age-old relic sites, mainly temples

and shrines, which serve as stages for xoan performances for centuries, and about 70 traditional xoan performers, among whom 10 persons can pass on the art. To educate and motivate people about the necessity of preserving and further developing the heritage that â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;urgently needs protection, Phu Tho Province has trained hundreds of xoan performers and introduced xoan into the school curriculum. In a xoan performance, the male singers usually lead the choir and play the drums, whereas the females sing the repetitions and replies. They all dance to accentuate the lyrics. There are three forms of xoan: ritual xoan to serve in ceremonies related to Hung Kings and tutelary gods, xoan on stage and festive xoan. The ritual xoan usually takes place in front of a village temple. The lyrics include many prayers to the kings, deities and the tutelary god, begging for peaceful life, good

health and good crops. Male and female parties sing together and in parts, in accords and disaccords, boisterously and vigorously, creating an air of reverence. The show xoan has 14 songs and 14 ways of presenting them, as the performing part is freer to include more colourful elements. The lyrics mostly describe the contemporary life and activities in the countryside, the subtle change in the nature through the four seasons of spring, summer, autumn and winter felt by the people working in the paddy fields. There are also songs telling folk tales. Festive xoan songs are more lyrical. This is the liveliest and most attractive part of the art of xoan because it brings out the essence of the native Viet philosophy based on Yin and Yang, man and woman, reproduction and prosperity. Festive xoan art includes singing, dancing, improvised scenes and games to reflect the delicate aspects of love between man and woman.n

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The mussel men (and women)

OCCUPATION

BY PHAN TRAM

n the paleness of winter days, looking down from Tho Truong Bridge, the calm water of La River with lush foliage along its banks is like an idyllic oil painting. In Hen (mussel) Village of Truong Son Commune, Ha Tinh Province, almost all of its nearly 200 households earn their living from the mussels. Early in the morning, Hen Pier is hectic with people buying and selling. Looking at baskets full of delicious stuff about to be carried by boats or mothers’ and sisters’ shoulders to bazaars, villages and towns, few can realize the tremendous hardship endured by Hen villagers. Village head Le Kim Trong told us that this is an age-old trade of the village. Family records of the Le family of Truong Son Commune say that the trade has been there over 300 years. In spring, the men begin to cruise up and down stream to catch the mussels. The 4th to 5th lunar months are the prime

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OCCUPATION

Top and below: Rinsing mussels at the Hen Village, Ha Tinh Province. Photos: Nguyen Minh Son

mussel season. In winter, they retreat to rest, only combing a few small rivulets nearby from time to time. There are two kinds of mussels; freshwater mussels from the areas of La River, Lam River, Ngan Sau and Ngan Pho, and brackish water mussels from under Ben Thuy Bridge and downstream. In the past, all the work was manual, with wooden boats and bamboo and rattan tools. Villagers formed cooperative groups to support one another, and each boat used to harvest 10-14 quintals a year. In recent years, their life has gotten easier with 24horse power boats, iron tools and parachute fabric nets. Iron-framed raking rackets, about 1.2m with 20cm-long teeth, are attached to a 3mlong net. As they rake the riverbed, sand is washed away, leaving only the mussels. The

work thus becomes less dependent on nature. In a good season, each boat can catch a ton a day, and about 70-80 tons are collected at the pier each day, enough to provide for Nghe An and Ha Tinh provinces. Live mussels are gathered at the village river pier. Mothers and sisters rinse them very carefully and then soak them in water for 8-10 hours to make them spit out all the dirt and mud. At 3 a.m. the next morning, they get up for the most important part of the job. The cleaned mussel is cooked in big pans. The keyword here is ‘three boils, two overflows,’ after which they stir the pan with a circular movement until the mussels ‘open their mouths.’ The mussels are rinsed again, this time to separate the meaty inside from the shell. This is when women apply their patience and dexterity. The finished

product is carried Hanoi on mothers’ and Ha Tinh sisters’ shoulders to be distributed all over Ha Tinh and Nghe An provinces. HCM City Nothing of the mussels is thrown away. The meat is used to cook broths, stew or porridge, or mixed with rice flan, or fried with shallot to make rice wafer sandwiches. Refreshing mussel broth can be drunk instead of water on hot days. The shell can be mixed with poultry food or burnt to make lime. In the 10th lunar month when the mussels are scarce and scraggy, the mussel labourers can spend some time with their family. The next spring, the boats will be drifting again to plough riverbeds. n

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VALUE FOR MONEY

RESORTS AND SPAS

Seahorse Resort & Spa

Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City Tel: (052) 3847-507 www.seahorseresortvn.com

Seahorse Resort & Spa is running a package ‘Relaxation with Infinity Pool’ till 31 October. Deluxe Room is VND1,899,000 per room per night and VND3,399,000 per room for two nights including breakfast, a complimentary (lẩu thả) hot pot and shuttle bus.

The Anam

Long Beach, Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3989-499 www.theanam.com

Set on a pristine Long Beach, The Anam features a five-star colonial resort, harking back to a bygone era and offering natural sophistication with an emphasis on high standard services, culinary excellence and rejuvenating wellness. The resort boasts 117 villas equipped with the finest Vietnamese hardwood, decorative stone and antique style tiling; Sri Mara Spa with therapists trained in the art of Balinese massage; and a wide range of recreational activities. The Anam is just away 15 minutes from Cam Ranh International Airport, and 30 minutes from the city centre. The resort is offering a two-night ‘City Escape Package’ in a Garden View Villa with breakfast, airport transfers, a food and beverage credit valued at $80 (VND1,760,000) and a spa credit valued at $80 (VND1,760,000). The package costs $468 (VND10,296,000) and runs till 20 December. The price includes service charge and VAT.

HOTELS

106A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3936-666

Indochine Palace Hue is running a Summer Package at VND2,400,000 per room per night for two in a Palace Deluxe with lunch or dinner. It is valid from 1 May to 31 October.

La Residence Hotel & Spa 5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3837-475 www.la-residence-hue.com

Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon is offering a ‘Saigon Weekend Getaway Package’ at VND4,350,000 per night for two in a Club Deluxe Room with breakfast, afternoon tea, snack, and a 25 per cent discount on food and beverage. It is valid till 1 May and applicable on Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and Monday (1 May). The price includes service charge and VAT.

Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon

2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Dist.1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3823-2833 www.lottehotel.com/saigon

Hanoi Hotel. VND1,500,000++ per person or VND1,900,000++ including wine.

Also, there is a unique cooking class with Chef Marc De Passorio at 10 a.m. 22 April at the Sheraton Hanoi Hotel. VND900,000++ per person including a three-course set lunch.

Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa

05 Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist, Danang Tel: (0236) 3981-234

Every Thursday night in April, 6 p.m. to 9.30 p.m., Green House Restaurant, at the Hyatt Regency Danang Resort & Spa, has a buffet dinner with a selection of Vietnamese dishes accompanying with traditional music performances. VND799,000 per person including wine and beer.

Palm Garden Beach Resort & Spa Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An Tel: (0235)3927-927 www.palmgardenresort.com.vn

Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon is offering Weekend Package for Vietnamese and expatriates every Friday, Saturday and Sunday till 2 July. The price starts from VND2,500,000++ per room per night, including buffet breakfast and a 10 per cent discount on food & beverage.

133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh St, Ward 8, Phu Nhuan Dist, HCMC. Tel: (08)6256-9966 www.alcovehotel.com.vn

The Alcove Library Hotel is running ‘Exclusive Package’ – Stay 3 nights, get 1 night free till 30 June. The price starts from VND1,755,000 ++ per room per night in an Alcove Queen room including breakfast and free airport drop-off service.

FOOD PROMOTIONS

La Residence Hotel & Spa is running a twonight ‘Beach Package’ with breakfast, a half-day city tour and a barbeque dinner on the beach. It costs VND7,165,000 per night in a Superior Room. Valid till 31 October.

VIETNAM HERITAGE

253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3844-9222 www.eastingrandsaigon.com

The Alcove Library Hotel

Indochine Palace Hue

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Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon

Sheraton Hanoi Hotel

11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3719-9000

Michelin Star Chef Marc De Passorio will prepare a 5-course set menu dinner from 20 to 22 April in the kitchen of Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill Restaurant, at the Sheraton

APRIL-MAY 2017

Palm Garden Beach Resort & Spa has a special discount up to 42 per cent on accommodations from 2 May to 30 June. Superior Garden View Room is VND2,496,000++ per night and Deluxe Garden View Room is VND2,610,000++ per night. The prices include breakfast and two body massage vouchers with a 50 per cent discount. For those who book two nights will get a roundtrip airport transfers or a lunch/ dinner.

Sheraton Nha Trang

26-28 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3880-000

VALUE FOR MONEY To celebrate the ‘Taste of Australia Week’ from 15 to 21 April, the chefs of Feast Restaurant, at the Sheraton Nha Trang, will prepare a BBQ buffet dinner, 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., with roast leg of lamb, BBQ lamb and beef cuts, roasted chicken, sausage rolls, and an array of Australian desserts. VND639,000++ including a glass of Australian wine and free flow of soft drinks. There is a 20 per cent discount for early bookings.

Caravelle Saigon

19-23 Lam Son Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-4999

There will be a chance to enjoy a fivecourse meal cooked by Michelin chef Andrea Spagoni at the Caravelle Saigon, from 14 to 16 April. He will show his talent with ‘Great Meats of Beef bar’ and ‘Unrivalled Mashed Potato’. To celebrate International Liberation Day, the chefs of the Nineteen Restaurant, at the Caravelle Saigon will bring a culinary journey, ‘Liberation Day Buffet’ with recipes from north to south in Vietnam. ‘Liberation Day Buffet’ will be on 30 April and 1 May.

Gartenstadt Restaurant

34-36 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3623

Kissho Restaurant

14 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823 2223

In April, Japanese Kissho Restaurant serves a combination of wrapped bacon and snow fish with aburi sauce at VND750,000++/course. Open daily 11 a.m. to 23 p.m.

InterContinental Saigon

Market 39 Restaurant, at the InterContinental Saigon, serves Easter brunch and Easter dinner on 16 April to celebrate the Easter Day, including seafood station and dessert station with chocolate fountain. Easter brunch, VND 1,798,000++ including free flow of Champagne Brut, house wine, beer and soft drinks. Easter Day Dinner with the price starts from VND 1,600,000++ to VND 2,200,000++. Also, Yu Chu Restaurant, at the InterContinental Saigon, has a new crab menu till 30 April with a variety of dishes and cooking methods.

22-36 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823 6688

2 Lam Son Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234

Italian Opera Restaurant, at the Park Hyatt Saigon, serves Sunday Brunch in April, noon to 3 p.m., including a wide range of Easter specialities. VND1,988,000++ including free flow Bollinger champagne, house wines, soft drinks, beer and cocktails. VND1,488,000++ including free flow of Prosecco, house wines, soft drinks, beer and cocktails.

88 Dong Khoi Street, District 1, HCMC Tel: (08) 3827-2828

Corner Hai Bat Trung St and Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999

The Reverie Saigon

Park Hyatt Saigon

Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers

In April, German Gartenstadt Restaurant is presenting full collection of Greenland Halibut dishes including Grilled Halibut with cherry tomato, orange and vinaigrette; Poached Halibut with passion fruit sauce; Stir-fried Halibut cubes and Halibut Schnitzel. Just VND380,000++/set. Open daily 10:30 a.m. to midnight.

L’Olivier Restaurant, at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, serves lunch for business meeting in April, 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. VND350,000++ for a two-course set lunch and VND460,000++ for a 3-course set lunch. Also, to celebrate Easter in April, Mezz Restaurant, at the Sofitel Saigon Plaza, prepares a wide range of Easter specialties and activities for children. Noon to 3 p.m. VND1,188,888++ per person or VND 1,688,888++ per person including Champagne.

In April, Café Cardinal, at The Reverie Saigon, offers a selection of imported wild Alaskan salmon including Salmon Carpaccio served with arugula salad, parmesan cheese, and salmon roe, pan-seared salmon served with green pea risotto and fennel salad, salmon filet with spinach, asparagus and Hollandaise sauce. The prices start from VND228,000++ per serving.

OTHERS

Li Bai Chinese Restaurant, at the Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers, will introduce a special menu in April. Australian beef cooked in Chinese style with choices of exclusive sauce including pan-fried sizzling Australian beef with Hoisin garlic sauce or pan-fried sizzling Australian beef with mushroom and black pepper sauce. The prices start from VND488,000++ per dish.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555

Pandora, one of the leading of Danish brands in jewellery manufacturer and retailer sector, has just launched a new collection ‘Do’ for Spring 2017. The products combine traditional craftsmanship and modern technology, inspiring women to be true to themselves and what they believe in. The new bangles for Spring 2017 are available in seven fabulous shades including air blue, princess blue, lavender, bright mint, radiant orchid, light pink and shimmering silver. 50 clear cubic zirconia stones are on each bracelet, and four new colours have been added to the rings’ collection. Especially for the spring 2017 collection, Pandora pays homage to all things floral. There are 4 stores in Ho Chi Minh City including Saigon Centre, Diamond Plaza, Crescent Mall and Vincom; 1 store in Ly Thai To St, Hanoi. nnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

Rates may be subject to 5-per-cent service charge and 10-per-cent VAT if there is no statement to the contrary.

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EVENTS EXHIBITIONS

HANOI

PHIEU – a multi-media exhibition 13 April to 3 May

Florian Nguyen has been known as an outstanding artist since his first exhibition, ‘Memory and Oblivion’, in 2016. His artworks are considered interesting due to their meticulousness in each detail. This year, his exhibition, themed ‘Memory’s Movement’, will be launched from 21 to 4 June at L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. It features a visual installation of black and white paintings, and installation artworks. DANCE

The British Council, in collaboration with Kilomet 109, presents PHIÊU – a multi-media exhibition exploring the relationship between traditional crafts and contemporary design. The exhibition is on from 13 April to 3 May at the Hanoi Old Quarter Exchange Centre, 50 Dao Duy Tu St, Hanoi. The programme brings together contemporary designers, artisans, researchers, entrepreneurs, and consumers in an effort to revitalise traditional crafts and support local craft-makers, as to share an understanding that New and Old are mutually beneficial. Art 4U 20 to 24 April

Dancing to accompany art 22 April A contemporary dance, named ‘Not only a memory’, will be on at 7 p.m. 22 April at the L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi.

The show will be performed by 5 dancers. They will interact with audiences enjoying the best paintings collected from the exhibition ‘Memory’s Movement’ of Florian Nguyen in April.

Strings and things 13 April

Memory artist 21 April to 4 June

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VIETNAM HERITAGE

Equation is a yearly event for those who love tech house music in Asia. This year, it will be on from 14 to 16 April on the peninsular of Dong Mo Lake, a one-hour drive from Hanoi. The man-made reservoir, Dong Mo Lake, supplies water to the surrounding areas, and covers over 1500 hectares with a tranquil space of green trees and lakes. The event includes camping, music performances by well-known DJs, dancing, food, drinks and outdoor activities. It promises to bring fun to visitors from day to night. Tickets are now on sale at www.eventbrite.com

FESTIVAL

MUSIC

Art For You is an art fair organised by Manzi Art Space and Work Room Four to connect buyers, artists and visitors to a variety of artworks and give a chance to possess them with affordable prices from $25 to $900. The seventh Art For You will be held from 20 to 24 April at the Manzi, 14 Phan Huy Ich St, Hanoi. Free admission.

‘Equation’ at the lake 14-16 April

The Tana String Quartet will perform at 8 p.m. 13 April at the L’Espace, 24 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. The Tana String Quartet was formed to promote contemporary repertoire and enhance the relationship between composer and performer; they place no boundaries when selecting style or genre and often present classical repertoire alongside contemporary works. In this performance, they will play a world-premiere song ‘Phong Vu’ by Ton That Tiet. Ticket: VND170,000

‘Changing of the Season’ 14 and 15 April There is a night of concert and ballet ‘Changing of the Season’ at 8 p.m. 14 and 15 April at the Hanoi Opera House, 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi. The show has the performance of conductor David Gomez Ramirez, piano soloist Jesus Mª Gómez Rodríguez and artists from the Orchestra of the Vietnam National Opera and Ballet. Ticket: VND300.000, VND400,000 and VND600,000

APRIL-MAY 2017

Snake village party 17 to 19 April

Le Mat Village Festival takes place from the 21th to 23th of the third lunar month (17 to 19 April, 2017) at the village in Viet Hung Ward, Long Bien Dist., Hanoi, to commemorate Mr Hoang Duc Trung, who won merit by taking poor people from Le Mat to the capital to reclaim wasteland and build 13 barracks to the west of Thang Long Citadel. The festival involves a water procession from the village well, catching fish and offering them to the gods, feasts and processions. Le Mat Village is wellknown for its traditional craft of catching and raising snakes.

QUANG NAM PROVINCE

Quang Nam Festival 9-14 June

The 6th Quang Nam Heritage Festival will be held from 9-14 June in Quang Nam Province. There will be a wide range of activities in Hoi An, Tam Ky, Duy Xuyen, Dien Ban, Tay Giang, Phu Ninh, Tien Phuoc and Nam Tra My districts, including sports, cultural and tourism activities, an international choir competition, Vietnam World Silk Festival, art programmes, Bai Choi folk festival, an exhibition on Vietnam’s seas and islands, international kite festival, a food fair, Windsurfing World Championships, Open Vietnam Sailboat Race and Canoeing National Awards at Phu Ninh Lake.

EVENTS HO CHI MINH CITY

EXHIBITIONS

‘Water images’ 13 April to 14 May

An exhibition of artist Vo Tran Chau, born in 1986, will be held from 13 April to 14 May at Salon Saigon, 6D Ngo Thoi Nhiem St, Dist 3, Ho Chi Minh City. She has been tracing a few amongst the many descendants of the Nguyen Dynasty to create ‘Water-images’, which remakes Long con, the emperor’s garment, by sowing together patches of their descendants’ clothing.

Besides this, the artist develops other works consisting of embroidered paintings, fabric sculptures, and a unique form of mosaic tapestry/painting not often seen in Vietnam. This solo exhibition creates an illusory space between forgetting and remembering, between current affairs and autobiographical elements, to create discourse on the psychology of our very era that seems to embody a recurrent uneasiness, looping between the past and future.

Trade relations Till 5 May

The exhibition ‘Trade relation between Japan and Vietnam in history’ will be held till 5 May at Hue Royal Antiquities Museum, 3 Le Truc St, Hue. The exhibition introduces antiquities reflecting the close relation between Japan and Vietnam in trading between the XVII and XVIII centuries.

The beauty of new Vietnamese Opera now available in English

By Ritch Pickens For a long time now, foreigners and visitors to Vietnam who know little or nothing of the language have been able to enjoy traditional song, music, dance and costume in various cultural shows. Now for the first time, film subtitles in English allow the English speaker to understand and enjoy a full-length original but traditional opera. Whilst it took place at the Saigon Opera House you do not have to go there and buy a ticket. You can watch it in the comfort of your own home on Youtube for free. A simple Google search of Linh Huyen Poet Queen Youtube will get you there. Sit yourself down with your favourite beverage and soak up an hour and fifty two minutes of Vietnamese culture and enjoy a ripping operatic story. Linh Huyen's opera ‘The Poet Queen’ (Story of Nom) was premiered in 2013. This filmed version is from 2015. The author also plays the lead role. It tells the story of Vietnam's most famous poetess, Ho Xuan Huong, who lived in the turbulent times of the late eighteenth century and early nineteenth century. With her sensuous, erotic and beautiful verses she challenged the feudal system and Confucian thinking of her time, which severely restricted women's role in society. This opera marked the revival of traditional music instruments with a fresh approach to traditional the 'cai luong' in which singers appear to duel with each other in song.

graphed by the well-known Norwegian Johanne Jakhelln Constant in 2013 and became one of the favourite ballets in HCMC. This time, it has the participation of famous Japanese ballet artist Nobuo Fujino as the Prince and the artists from Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra and Opera (HBSO). Ho Chi Minh City Opera House, 8 Lam Son Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Ticket: VND400,000. Tel: (08) 3823-7295 MUSIC

Dvorak’s 8th 19 April

DANCE

‘A dream is a wish that your heart makes’ 25 and 26 April

The ‘Cinderella’ ballet will be staged at 8 p.m. on 25 and 26 April at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. The show was choreo-

Dvorak’s 8th Symphony will be led by conductor Tran Nhat Minh at 8 p.m. 19 April at the Ho Chi Minh City Opera House. Dvorak’s 8th Symphony is one of the most famous symphonies of 19th century European romantic music. The show also features talented pianist Nguyen Bich Tra. She will perform Joachim Raff's concerto in G Major for piano and orchestra.

Ho Chi Minh City Opera House, 8 Lam Son Square, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City. Ticket: VND200,000. Tel: (08) 3823-7295 OTHER

Cycling for the poor 1 April to 28 April

‘Give a child a fish and you feed her for a day. Teach a child to fish and you feed her for a lifetime’, is the statement of H2H’s mission. H2H Charity Ride exists to help break the cycle of poverty in the lives of Vietnam’s poorest children and youth. Each April, H2H organises a 2,000 km cycling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh to raise essential funds for Vietnamese children’s charities supporting education and healthcare. This year, 20 riders will follow the old Ho Chi Minh Trail from 1 April to 28 April to raise money for five Vietnamese children's charities: Saigon Children's Charity, KOTO, The Blue Dragon Children Foundation, Live and Give and ILA Community Network. To donate please go to www.justgiving.com/teams/h2h2017.

Cool pool Till 20 May, 2017

Come to Saigon Soul Pool Party every Saturday till 20 May, 2017 at the largest pool in Saigon of New World Hotel. The party has beverages and mouth-watering dishes. Also, the atmosphere will be stirred up with world-class DJs. New World Saigon Hotel, 76 Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, District 1, HCMC. Ticket: VND150,000

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EVENTS

Craftsmanship to be honoured in Hue

he former imperial city of Hue is finalising its preparations for an event honouring craftsmanship of Vietnamese artisans around the country in an event that it has named the Hue Festival of Craft Villages. The event will kick off the 28th this month and wrap up 2 May. The event’s organizers expected weekend days and holidays will offer more time lapse for visitors to enjoy various craft performances and exhibitions of quintessential handmade products. In a spacious area in the city, artisans will gather with their tools and materials available for performances. The artisans are also ready to guide visitors with craft techniques and make products have chance to take the items home. The craft techniques included are legacy of old villages around the country and prominent craft communities in Hue as well. Duong Van Kinh, a member of the organizers said this year’s event will have the presence of many crafts and villages that have been believed died out in modern society. A long time ago, many women could make conical hats for their own needs but social development has diversified careers, making the palm-leaf a specialized craft of certain villages in the country. Despite having same shape, conical hats made by women in different regions have different styles that convey their own sense of aestheticism of the region. Hue hats always look better compared to others and they have their signature style. Hue artisans are skillful to add transcription of poems under the leaf layers

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VIETNAM HERITAGE

TEXT AND PHOTO BY SONG PHUOC

and those poems can be read under sunlight. At the event, visitors get a chance to enjoy and talk to the skillful artisans, including those from My Lam Village, a well-known for conical hat-making in Hue. Bamboo and rattan knitting also create a handmade signature for Hue, with Bao La village as a prominent representative. The village has transformed its from supplying farming tools to manufacturing furniture and decoration items. At the event, the village artisans will bring 2,000 product items for five days of performances and exhibitions of bamboo lamps, tea pot trays, chairs and table sets, lanterns, and decoration pieces made with rattan. Hue was once the land of kings and royal demands for handmade products were always high, especially for clothing. Embroidery was part of those needs and so the former imperial city has many families with embroidering tradition. The families have kept transferring the craft from generation to generation. At this event, 200 embroidery shops and facilities around the city will gather to make a festive day showing the quintessential skills and outstanding products. Nguyen Thi Doan Trang, director of an embroidery business registered under her name, said she has 15 embroidery ao dai sets reproducing kings’ costumes and these will amaze audiences thanks to their unique beauty. Villages with handmade traditions from all over the country will join. Bat Trang pottery and terracotta are the prominent

APRIL 2017 - MAY 2017

representatives from the northern region. Meanwhile, the ethnic H’re in central Quang Ngai Province will present their own fabric and southern Vinh Long Province is going to introduce their crafts of brick baking and mat knitting from mosquito fern plants. Craft villages of paper paintings, lanternmaking, paper flower-making, bronze casting and mat knitting will join the event, showcasing their craft skills and products. The highlight of the event is sure to be the ao dai fashion show proposed to take place on the city’s iconic Truong Tien Bridge. The collection of ao dai showcases efforts of different artists, from clothing designers to artists and their family members. According to designer Minh Hanh, who chairs the show, the ao dai will have copies of paintings by 20 famous artists, including late artists Ton That Dao, Buu Chi and Dinh Cuong. This is the first time after 15 years an ao dai show will take place on the bridge and this delights locals a lot. On the sidelines, a food and beverage festival will take place during the 5-day event, offering locals and visitors wide range of specialties from localities around the country. The event’s organizers expected visitors and audiences will take this chance to enjoy a banquet of craftsmanship in the beautiful city.n Photos from left: Artisan creating terracotta vase. Show combining ao dai and kites. Craft of paper lotus flower making.

DIRECTIONS SAPA, HALONG, HAI PHONG EMERGENCIES POLICE : FIRE :

AMBULANCE :

113 114 115

SAPA

(TELEPHONE CODE: 020) Sapa is a former French hill station in northwestern Vietnam, in Lao Cai Province, near the Chinese border. A number of minority cultures including the H’mong, Dao and Tay live in villages in the countryside around Sapa. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Cat Cat View Hotel 46 Fan Xi Pang St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-946 www.catcathotel.com Cha Pa Garden Boutique Hotel & Spa 23B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3872-907 www.chapagarden.com Chau Long Sapa Hotel

U Sapa Hotel

8 Cau May, Sapa Tel: (020) 3871-996 www.uhotelsresorts.com RESTAURANTS Buffalo Bell Restaurant 25 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-455 Delta Restaurant 33 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-799 Fansipan Restaurant 23 Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-556

HALONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 033) With around 1,600 islands and islets in the Gulf of Tonkin, Halong Bay, about 170 km east of Hanoi, is well known for its limestone seascape. Overnight boat trips out of Halong City are a popular way to see it. HOSPITALS

Asean Halong Hotel Hau Can St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3640-034 www.aseanhalonghotel.com Halong Hidden Charm Hotel Block 22D, Tuan Chau Villas, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-360 www.hiddencharmhotel.com.vn Halong Palace Hotel 1, Block 20 Dong Hung Thang, Hoang Quoc Viet St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3619-819 www.halongpalacehotel.com Halong Plaza Hotel 8 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-810 www.halongplaza.com Heritage Halong Hotel 88 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-888 www.heritagehalonghotel.com.vn Mường Thanh Halong Hotel No.7, Block 20, East of Hung Thang, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3812-468/ (033) 3819-777 www.muongthanhhotel.vn Novotel Ha Long Bay 160 Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-108 www.novotelhalongbay.com Saigon Halong Hotel Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-845 www.saigonhalonghotel.com StarCity Halong Bay Hotel

Bai Chay Hospital Gieng Day Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-557 www.benhvienbaichay.vn 24 Dong Loi St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-245 www.chaulonghotel.com.vn Holiday Sapa Hotel 16 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3873-874 www.holidaysapa.com Mường Thanh Sapa Hotel 44, Ngu Chi Son, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3887-766 www.muongthanh.vn Royal Hotel 54B Cau May St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3771-131 www.royalsapahotel.com Topas Ecolodge Thanh Kim Ward, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (04) 3715-1005 www.topasecolodge.com Victoria Sapa Resort and Spa Xuan Vien St, Sapa, Lao Cai Province Tel: (020) 3871-522 www.victoriahotels.asia

TRAVEL

Halong Tourism 1 Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-272 Quang Ninh Tourism Company Ha Long St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-350 Syrena Cruises Hung Thang new urban area, Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3847-043 Hanoi Sales Office: Syrena Tower, 3th Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-7214 Email: se@syrenacruises.com www.syrenacruises.com HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

\ Reu Island, Bai Chay, Ha Long, Viet Nam Tel: (033) 3556-868 www.vinpearl.com RESTAURANTS

Co Ngu Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3511-363 Jumbo Vietnam Floating Restaurant 119 Le Thanh Tong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3624-888 Sea Food Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-822

Halong Gold Restaurant Halong St, Halong Tel: (033) 3845-142

BARS & CAFÉS

Emeraude Café 6A Le Thanh Tong St, Hon Gai, Halong Tel: (033) 3849-266 www.emeraude-cruises.com Royal International Gaming Club and Villa Bai Chay, Halong Tel: (033) 3848-777

HAI PHONG CITY (TELEPHONE CODE: 031) HOTELS, RESORTS

Traditional Medicine Hospital Cot 8, Hong Ha Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3838-113 Vietnam-Sweden Hospital Thanh Son Ward, Uong Bi Commune, Halong Tel: (033) 3854-037 www.bvubqn.tk

Vinpearl Halong

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Catba Princes Hotel 168 Halong St, Bai Chay Ward, Halong Tel: (033) 3846-058 www.starcityhalongbay.com In the centre of Halong, StarCity Halong Bay Hotel offers 152 wellequipped rooms, with many breathtaking views of Halong Bay Tuan Chau Island Holiday Villa Halong Bay 303 Nui Ngoc, Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3888-899 www.catbaprinceshotel.com Catba Sunrise Resort Cat Ba Island, Hai Phong City Tel: (031) 3887-360 www.catbasunriseresort.com

Tuan Chau Island, Halong Tel: (033) 3842-999 www.holidayvillahalongbay.com

Avani Hai Phong Harbour View 12 Tran Phu St, Ngo Quyen Dist., Hai Phong Tel: (031) 3827-827 www.avanihotels.com

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VIETNAM HERITAGE

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A 1. B aD inh S quare Ba Dinh Square

rison 2. H oa L oP Hoa Lo Prison

Stt Joseph Joseph’s Cathedral 3. S ’s C athedral

ouse Opera House 4. Hanoi O pera H

Cot Co Tower 5. C ot C oT ower

Women’s 6. W omen’s Museum

7. H oC hi M inh Museum Ho Chi Minh

8. IImperial mperial C itadel of T Citadel Thang Long hang L ong

CENTRE OF

9. V ietnam National National Museum of History Vietnam History F3 10. V ietnam M ilitary H istory Museum D2 Vietnam Military History illar 11. O ne P One Pillar

ausoleum 12. H oC hi M inh M Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

13. Ngo on T emple Ngocc S Son Temple

14. Dong Da H ill Hill

15. Dong X uan M arket Xuan Market

An entry in the Directions section is either editorial or advertising To advertise, and be certain that your entry appears, please contact

14 1 4

Ms. Thuy Phuong Mobile: 0969 47 3579

STREET GUIDE

Ba Trieu...................E3, E4 Bac Son.........................D1 Bach Dang.....................F2 Bach Mai........................E4 Bat Dan..........................E2 Bich Cau........................C2 Buoi................................A1 Cat Linh..........................C2 Cha Ca....................E1, E2 Cua Bac.........................D1 Cua Dong.......................D2

Da Tuong.......................E3 Dang Tat.........................D1 Dao Duy Anh.................D4 Dao Duy Tu.............E1, E2 Dien Bien Phu................D2 Doc Ngu.........................A1 Doi Can.............A1, B2, C2 Duong Thanh.................E2 Gam Cau........................E1 Giai Phong.....................D4 Giang Vo.....A3 ,B3 ,B2,C2

Hai Ba Trung.....E2, E3, F3 Ham Long......................E3 Han Thuyen....................F3 Hang Bac.......................E2 Hang Bo.........................E2 Hang Bong.....................E2 Hang Buom....................E2 Hang Can.......................E2 Hang Chuoi....................F3 Hang Cot........................E1 Hang Da.........................E2 Hang Dao.......................E2

Hang Dau.......................E1 Hang Ga.........................E2 Hang Gai........................E2 Hang Khay.....................E2 Hang Khoai....................E1 Hang Ma.........................E1 Hang Quat......................E2 Hang Trong....................E2 Hang Chieu....................E1 Hang Luoc......................E1 Hao Nam........................C2 Hoa Ma...........................F3

Hoang Dieu.............D1, D2 Hoang Hoa Tham............... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 Hoang Van Thu..............D1 Hoe Nhai........................E1 Hung Vuong............D1, D2 Huynh Thuc Khang........A3 Kham Thien.............C3, D3 Kim Ma..............A2, B2, C2 La Thanh.................B3, C3 Lang Ha..........................B3 Nguyen Chi Thanh.........A3

Le Dai Hanh...................E4 Le Duan............D2, D3, D4 Le Hong Phong.............D2 Le Lai..............................F2 Le Thai To.......................E2 Le Thanh Tong...............F3 Le Van Huu....................E3 Lieu Giai........................A2 Lo Duc......................F3, F4 Lo Su..............................F2 Luong Ngoc Quyen.......E2 Luong Van Can..............E2

L L L L M N N N N N N N

OF HA NOI

4 4 2 2 2 3 3 2 4 2 2 2

12 1 11

15 8

7 5 10 13 3

Ly Nam De..............E1, E2 Ly Quoc Su....................E2 Ly Thai To.......................F2 Ly Thuong Kiet........E3, F3 Mai Hac De..............E3, E4 Ngo Quyen.....................F3 Ngo Si Lien....................D2 Ngo Thi Nham................E3 Ngoc Ha.........................C1 Ngoc Khanh...................B2 Nguyen Canh Chan......D1 Nguyen Cong Hoa.........B2

Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ .................................E3, E4 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Huu Huan........ F2 Nguyen Khuyen.............D2 Nguyen Luong Bang.....C3 Nguyen Thai Hoc....C2, D2 Nguyen Thuong Hien......... ........................................D3 Nguyen Van To..............E2 Nha Chung.....................E2 Nha Tho.........................E2

Nui Truc..........................B2 Pham Dinh Ho................F3 Pham Ngu Lao...............F3 Phan Boi Chau.......D2, D3 Phan Chu Trinh..............F3 Phan Dinh Phung..........D1 Phan Huy Chu................F3 Pho Duc Chinh...............F3 Pho Hue...................E3, E4 Phu Doan.......................E2 Phung Hung............E1, E2 Quan Su..................E2, E3

Quan Thanh...................D1 Quang Trung...........E2, E3 Quoc Tu Giam...............D2 Son Tay..........................C2 Thai Phien......................E4 Thanh Cong...................B3 Thanh Nien....................D1 Tho Nhuom.............E2, E3 Thuy Khue.......................... ....................A1, B1, C1, D1 To Hien Thanh...............E4 Tong Dan........................F2

Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Hung Dao................... ...........................D3, E3, F3 Tran Huy Lieu................B2 Tran Khanh Du...............F3 Tran Khat Chan..............F4 Tran Nguyen Han..........F2 Tran Nhan Tong......D3, E3 Tran Nhat Duat..............E1 Tran Phu........................D2 Tran Quang Khai............F2 Tran Qui Cap.................D2

Tran Quoc Toan......D3, E3 Tran Thanh Tong............F3 Tran Xuan Soan................. .................................E3, E4 Trang Thi........................E2 Trang Tien................E2, F3 Trieu Viet Vuong......E3, E4 Trinh Hoai Duc...............C2 Tue Tinh.........................E3 Yen Phu..........................E1 Yersin..............................F4 Yet Kieu..........................D3

DIRECTIONS HANOI HANOI

HOTELS

(TELEPHONE CODE: 04)

MEDICAL CENTRES

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Acupuncture Institute 49 Thai Thinh St, Dong Da Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3563-1069 Hanoi French Hospital 1 Phuong Mai St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3577-1100 International SOS Clinic 1 Dang Thai May St, Tay Ho Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-0666

Hilton Hanoi Opera Hotel 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-0500 www.hanoi.hilton.com Mövenpick Hotel Hanoi 83A Ly Thuong Kiet St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3822-2800 www.moevenpick-hotels.com/hanoi

Thuy Tran Otolaryngology Clinic 6 Do Quang St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi (6/61 Tran Duy Hung Avenue) Tel: (04) 3556-6124 www.taimuihongthuytran.com Vinmec international hospital 458 Minh Khai St, Hai Ba Trung Dist, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3974-3556 AIRLINES Air France 1 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-3484 Qatar Airways Hilton Hanoi Opera Building, M floor, 1 Le Thanh Tong St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3933-6767 www.qatarairways.com Singapore Airlines 17 Ngo Quyen St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi. Tel: (04) 3826-8888 Vietnam Airlines 25 Trang Thi St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3823-0320 TRAVEL

Amega Travel Hancorp Plaza, 72 Tran Dang Ninh St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3783-3570 www.amegatours.net Buffalo Tours 10th Floor, 70-72 Ba Trieu St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-0702 www.buffalotours.com Emeraude Classic Cruises 46 Le Thai To St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3935-1888 www.emeraude-cruises.com Exotissmo 3rd Floor, 66A Tran Hung Dao St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3828-2150 www.exotissimo.com Topas Travel 52 To Ngoc Van St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3715-1005 www.topastravel.vn

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HERITAGE

Pullman Hanoi 40 Cat Linh St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-0808 www.pullman-hanoi.com Sheraton Hanoi Hotel 11 Xuan Dieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3719-9000 www.sheraton.com/hanoi Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi 15 Ngo Quyen St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-6919 www.sofitel-legend.com RESTAURANTS Au Lac do Brazil II 6A Cao Ba Quat St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3845-5224 Green Tangerine 48 Hang Be St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1286 www.greentangerinehanoi.com Serving French food with a Vietnamese cuisine Hoa Vien Brauhaus 1A Tang Bat Ho St, Hai Ba Trung Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3972-5088 www.hoavien.vn The restaurant has been famous for its production of Czech beer Le Tonkin Restaurant 14 Ngo Van So St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3943-3457 www.letonkinrestaurant.vn Serves Vietnamese food

BOOK STORE

Infostones Bookshop 41 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3826-2993 Thousands of magazines and books by hundreds of publishing houses worldwide SHOPS

Craft Link 43 and 51 Van Mieu St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-7710 Ha Dong Silk 102 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3928-5056

APRIL-MAY 2017

Tan My Embroidery 66 Hang Gai St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-1579 Viet Culture 1 Trang Thi St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3934-7417 Mekong Quilts 13 Hang Bac St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3926-4831 www.mekong-quilts.org

FURNITURE/ INTERIOR Dome Au Co 9 Au Co St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3718-5866 Dome Yen The 10 Yen The St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3843-6036

SIGHTSEEINGS

Ba Dinh Square 36A Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Ba Dinh Square, where President Ho Chi Minh declared Vietnam’s independence in September 1945, is a complex of historic sites. Cot Co Tower 28 Dien Bien Phu St, Ba Dinh Dist, Hanoi Cot Co Tower, the so-called Flag Tower, is now part of the Vietnam Military History Museum complex. The Tower was built in 1950, under the Nguyen Dynasty, with the help of French engineers. The tower has 36 flower-shaped windows. At the top of the tower flies the flag of Vietnam. Hanoi Opera House 1 Trang Tien St, Hoan Kiem Dist, Hanoi Designed by a French architect along the lines of the Paris Opera House, it is embellished with wonderful Gothic statuary. For many decades, Hanoi Opera House has been a centre for theatre, traditional music and dance, symphonies, traditional and classical music. This, the largest theatre in Vietnam, was completed in 1911. Hoa Lo Prison ‘La Maison Centrale’, the prison on Hoa Lo Street in Hanoi, was built by the French in 1896 and became the place where generations of Vietnamese freedom fighters were held. St Joseph’s Cathedral 40 Nha Chung St, Hoan Kiem Dist., Hanoi Fresh missionaries built this cathedral in the late 19th century. The small but beautiful panes of stained glass were created in Paris in 1906. Also of note is the ornate altar, with its high gilded sidewalls. MUSEUMS

Hanoi Museum 2 Pham Hung (next to Vietnam National Convention Centre), Me Tri Commune, Tu Liem Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 6287-06 04

Opening hour: 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Free entrance Ho Chi Minh Museum 19 Ngoc Ha St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3846-3752 www.baotanghochiminh.vn Open: 8 a.m. to noon (Monday and Friday), 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. (other days) Entry fee: VND25,000 Imperial Citadel of Thang Long 12 Nguyen Tri Phuong St/ 9 Hoang Dieu St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 37345427 www.hoangthanhthanhlong.vn Open: 8.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. (Closed on Mondays) Entry fee: VND30,000 Vietnam National Museum of History 1 Trang Tien St, Hanoi 25 Tong Dan St, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3824-1384 www.baotanglichsu.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed every first Monday of months. Entry fee VND40,000 ($1.82) for adults and VND10,000 ($0.48) for children Vietnam Fine Arts Museum 66 Nguyen Thai Hoc St, Ba Dinh Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3733-2131 www.vnfineartsmuseum.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND20,000 ($0.95) Vietnam Military History Museum 28A Dien Bien Phu St, Hanoi www.btlsqsvn.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1 p.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43) Vietnam Museum of Ethnology Nguyen Van Huyen St, Cau Giay Dist., Hanoi Tel: (04) 3756-2193, www.vme.org.vn Open 8.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND40,000 ($2) Women’s Museum 36 Ly Thuong Kiet, Hanoi Tel: (04) 3825-9936 www.womenmuseum.org.vn Open 8 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed on Mondays Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

DIRECTIONS NINH BINH, NGHE AN, QUANG BINH, HUE, DANANG, HOI AN

NINH BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 030) Emeralda Resort Ninh Binh Van Long Reserve, Gia Van Commune, Gia Vien Dist., Ninh Binh Province Tel: (030) 3658-333 www.emeraldaresort.com Ninh Binh Legend Hotel Tien Dong Zone, Ninh Khanh Ward, Ninh Binh City. Tel: (030) 3899-880 www.ninhbinhlegendhotel.com

NGHE AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0238) Muong Thanh Song Lam Hotel 13 Quang Trung St, Quang Trung Ward, Vinh, Nghe An Province Tel: (0238) 3737-666 www.songlam.muongthanh.vn

QUANG BINH

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0232) HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Bao Ninh Beach Resort Ha Duong, Bao Ninh, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (0232) 3854-866 www.baoninhbeachresort.com.vn

49 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3823-390 Email: res@centuryriversidehue.com www.centuryriversidehue.com Century Riverside Hotel Hue, with its 135 rooms, is located in a vast area of 20,000 square meters. It is surrounded by a garden full of fruit trees, various kinds of flowers and a green pasture. Hue Century Riverside Hotel lies by the side of Truong Tien Bridge and the bank of the romantic Huong River. Hue Riverside Boutique Resort & Spa 588 Bui Thi Xuan St, Thuy Bieu Dist., Hue. Tel: (0234) 3978-484 www.hueriversideresort.com Imperial Hotel 8 Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3882-222 www.imperial-hotel.com.vn Indochine Palace Hotel 105A Hung Vuong St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3936-666 www.indochinepalace.com The hotel is surrounded by lush green gardens that make it an outstanding landmark in Hue and give the city the feel of a resort. This luxurious, international standard hotel is created to appeal to Vietnamese and international visitors to Hue. La Residence Hotel & Spa

Sun Spa Resort My Canh, Bao Ninh Commune, Dong Hoi City, Quang Binh Province Tel: (0232) 3842-999 www.sunsparesortvietnam.com

HUE

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0234) Hue is a city on the Perfume River in lowland central Vietnam and was the capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 to 1945. Many imperial structures remain. They were named part of UNESCO World Heritage in 1993. Hue is also known for its particular cuisine. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

30 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234)3823-526 www.morinhotel.com.vn Vedanā Lagoon Resort & Spa Zone 1, Phu Loc Town, Phu Loc Dist., Hue Tel: (0234) 3681-688 www.vedanalagoon.com RESTAURANT

Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant 110A Le Ngo Cat St, Thuy Xuan Ward, Hue Tel: (0234) 3898-220 www.thientamrestaurant.com Thien Tam Vegetarian Restaurant features a Hue garden house with a simple design and a serene atmosphere. The restaurant serves a variety of Hue vegetarian food, from royal to local dishes, at a reasonable price.

DANANG

HOTELS, RESORTS

5 Le Loi St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3837-475 Email: resa@la-residence-hue.com www.la-residence-hue.com Step back in time to Art Deco's golden age with a stay at La Residence Hue Hotel & Spa, MGallery by Sofitel. Nestled along the fabled Perfume River overlooking the former Imperial Citadel, La Residence is a one-of-a-kind masterpiece with luxurious cultural and culinary experiences. This former governor's residence with 122 guestrooms and suites offers visitors a warm hospitality and a chance to relive the pleasures of a bygone era. Lang Co Beach Resort

Alba Spa Hotel 29 Tran Quang Khai St, Hue Tel: (0234) 3828-444 www.albavietnam.com Century Riverside Hotel Hue 463 Lac Long Quan St., Lang Co Town, Phu Loc Dist, Thua Thien Hue Province Tel: (0234) 3873-555 www.langcobeachresort.com.vn

Novotel Danang Premier Han River 36 Bach Dang St, Hai Chau Dist., Danang. Tel: (0236) 3929-999 www.novotel-danang-premier.com Samdi Hotel 203-211 Nguyen Van Linh St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3586-222 www.samdihotel.vn

Hotel Saigon Morin

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0236)

TRAVEL

Oxalis Adventure Tours Phong Nha Commune, Son Trach Village, Bo Trach Dist., Quang Binh Province. Tel: (0232)3677-678 www.oxalis.com.vn

Pilgrimage Village Boutique Resort & Spa 130 Minh Mang Road, Hue Tel: (0234) 3885-461 www.pilgrimagevillage.com

Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort Danang Vietnam 255 Huyen Tran Cong Chua St, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3961-777 www.centarahotelsresorts.com/cdv Vinpearl Luxury Danang Truong Sa St, Hoa Hai Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang. Tel: (0236) 3968-888 www.vinpearl.com MUSEUM Danang Museum of Cham Sculpture 2, 2 Thang 9 St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3572-935 www.chammuseum.danang.vn Open 7.15 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND30,000 ($1.43)

HOI AN

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0235) A major port town from the 15th to 19th centuries, Hoi An has well preserved vestiges of Vietnamese, Chinese and Japanese cultures. The buildings are now often used for tailor’s shops. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hoi An is a little over 30 km south of Danang, on the central coast. HOTELS, RESORTS

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Diamond Sea Hotel 232 Vo Nguyen Giap St, Son Tra Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3939-777 www.diamondseahotel.com Grand Mercure Danang Lot A1, Green Island, Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3797-777 www.accorhotels.com/7821 Green Plaza Hotel 238 Bach Dang St, Danang Tel: (0236) 3223-399 www.greenplazahotel.vn Sitting along the Han River, the four-star hotel boasts elegance and unique accommodations in Vietnamese design and a stunning view of river, mountain and city Pullman Danang Beach Resort Vo Nguyen Giap St, Khue My Ward, Ngu Hanh Son Dist., Danang Tel: (0236) 3958-888 www.pullman-danang.com

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Anantara Hoi An Resort 1 Pham Hong Thai St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3914-555 www.hoi-an.anantara.com Aurora Riverside Hotel & Villas 242 Cua Dai St, Hoi An City, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3924-111 www.aurorahoian.com Hoi An Silk Village 28 Nguyen Tat Thanh Str, Tan An Ward, Hoi An City,Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 392-1144 www.hoiansilkvillage.com Hotel Royal Hoi An, Mgallery Collection 39 Dao Duy Tu St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province. Tel: (0235) 3950-777 www.mgallery.com Kiman Hotel & Spa 461-463 Hai Ba Trung St, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3920 430 www.kimanhoianhotel.com

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DIRECTIONS QUY NHON, NHA TRANG, PHAN THIET Sunrise Hoi An Beach Resort Au Co Road, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3937-777 www.sunrisehoian.vn Palm Garden Beach Resort and Spa

Lac Long Quan St, Cua Dai Beach, Hoi An, Quang Nam Province Tel: (0235) 3927-927 Email: info@pgr.com.vn www.palmgardenresort.com.vn River-Beach Resort & Residences Hoi An 5 Cua Dai St, Hoi An. Tel: (0235) 3927888. www.river-beachresort.com

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Champa Island Nha Trang Resort & Spa 304, 2/4 St, Vinh Phuoc, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3568-888 Email: sales@champaislandresort.vn www.champaisandresort.vn With architecture reflecting nearby Po Nagar temple, Champa Island Nha Trang offers exquisite cuisine and many entertainment services that promise a memorable stay in Nha Trang Best Western Premier Havana Nha Trang Hotel 38 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province. Tel: (058) 3889-999 www.havanahotel.vn Cam Ranh Riviera Beach Resort & Spa

MUSEUM

Northern Peninsula Cam Ranh, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3989-898 Email: info@rivieraresortspa.com www.rivieraresortspa.com

(TELEPHONE CODE: 056) HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily AVANI Quy Nhon Resort & Spa Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3840-132 www.avanihotels.com/quynhon

Michelia Hotel 4 Pasteur St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-820 www.michelia.vn

Quang Trung Museum Block 1, Phu Phong town, Tay Son Dist., Binh Dinh Province Tel: (056) 3580-320 Open 7 a.m. to 11.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Entry fee VND10,500 ($0.50). Free for children under six

NHA TRANG

Mường Thanh Grand Nha Trang Hotel 6 Duong Hien Quyen St, Vinh Hoa Ward, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3552-468 www.nhatrang.muongthanh.vn

(TELEPHONE CODE: 058) On the central coast, Nha Trang is a city originally known for beautiful beaches but these have lately been found to suffer from pollution due to modern life, development and tourism, like other popular resort areas in Vietnam. It has large numbers of foreign tourists, island-hopping, scuba diving, sightseeing and lounging on the beach.

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MUSEUM

Alexandre Yersin Museum Pasteur Institute, 10 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-406

Suoi Nuoc, Muine, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3836-888 Email: info@bluebaymuineresort.com www.bluebaymuineresort.com Hoang Ngoc (Oriental Pearl) Beach Resort & Spa

PHAN THIET

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

152 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3847-858 Email: info@hoangngoc-resort.com www.hoangngoc-resort.com Muine Mud Bath & Spa

Aroma Beach Resort & Spa

Diamond Bay Resort & Spa Nguyen Tat Thanh Blvd, Phuoc Ha, Phuoc Dong Dist., Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3711-711 www.diamondbayresort.vn InterContinental Nha Trang Hotel 32-34 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang Tel: (058) 3887-777 www.intercontinental.com

MUSEUM

Blue Bay Muine Resort & Spa

SHOPPING

Khanh Hoa Salanganes Nest Company 248 Thong Nhat St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3822-472 yensaokh@yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn www.yensaokhanhhoa.com.vn

(TELEPHONE CODE: 062) Sitting on the coast about 200 km north of Ho Chi Minh City, Phan Thiet is a beach city with many resorts and hotels.

Hoi An Centre for Cultural Heritage Management and Preservation 10B Tran Hung Dao St, Hoi An Tel: (0235) 3862-367 www.hoianheritage.net Open daily 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.

QUY NHON

Vinpearl Resort Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang City, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-188 Email: info@vinpearlresort-nhatrang.com www.vinpearl.com

Quater 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3828-288 www.aromabeachresort.com With 52 authentic Vietnamese rooms and bungalows, the hotel offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the blue sea Bamboo Village Beach Resort & Spa

133A Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3743-481 Email: sales1@bunkhoangmuine.com www.bunkhoangmuine.com Muine Ocean Resort & Spa 10 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3741-616 www.muineoceanresort.com Muine Bay Resort

Sunrise Nha Trang Beach Hotel & Spa 12-14 Tran Phu St, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3820-999 www.sunrisenhatrang.com.vn Vinpearl Luxury Nha Trang Hon Tre Island, Nha Trang, Khanh Hoa Province Tel: (058) 3598-598 Email: info@vinpearlluxury-nhatrang.com w.vinpearl.com

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38 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3847-007 www.bamboovillageresortvn.com

Quarter 14, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-222 Email: info@muinebayresort.com www.muinebayresort.com

DIRECTIONS DALAT, BINH DUONG, HO CHI MINH CITY Ocean Dunes Resort 1 Ton Duc Thang St, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3822-393 www.oceandunesresort.com.vn Sandunes Beach Resort & Spa 5 Quarter, Mui Ne Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 3748-868 Email: info@sandunesbeach.com www.sandunesbeach.com Saigon Mui Ne Resort 56 - 97 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3741-044 www.saigonmuineresort.com.vn Seahorse Resort & Spa

Ana Mandara Villas Dalat Resort & Spa

TRAVEL

Le Lai St, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3555-888 reservation-dalat@anamandara-resort.com www.anamandara-resort.com From VND3,150,000 ($150) Dalat Edensee Resort Tuyen Lam Lake, Zone VII.2, Dalat, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3831-515 www.dalatedensee.com Monet Garden Villa

Km 11 Nguyen Dinh Chieu St, Ham Tien Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province. Tel: (062) 3847-507 reservation@seahorseresortvn.com www.seahorseresortvn.com Sea Links City Resort & Golf Km 9, Nguyen Thong St, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province Tel: (062) 2220-088 www.sealinksbeachhotel.com Victoria Phan Thiet Beach Resort & Spa Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet City, Binh Thuan Province . Tel: (062) 3813-000 Email: resa.phanthiet@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia

3 Nguyen Du St., Dalat City, Lam Dong Province Tel: (063) 3810-826 www.monetgarden.com.vn

BINH DUONG

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0650) An Lam Saigon River

DALAT

(TELEPHONE CODE: 063) Dalat, founded in 1893, has Frencharchitecture, pine forests and a perpetually cool climate. It is in the southern Central Highlands, about 300 kilometres from Ho Chi Minh City. HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Asiana Travel Mate 113C Bui Vien St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3838-6678 www.atravelmate.com Buffalo Tours 81 Mac Thi Buoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3827-9168 Email: travelagency@buffalotours.com www.buffalotours.com.vn Buffalo Tours operates in Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. The Buffalo Tours portfolio caters to all types of tours.

Sofitel Saigon Plaza

Transviet Travel Travel House, 170-172 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3933-0777 www.transviet.com.vn

21/4 Trung St., Vinh Phu Ward, Thuan An Dist., Binh Duong Province Tel: (0650) 3785-555 Email: rsvn.sr@anlam.com www.anlam.com

HOSPITALS

Columbia Asia Gia Dinh International Hospital 1 No Trang Long St, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3803-0678 FV Hospital 6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, Dist.7, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 5411-3500

Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com

Trails of Indochina 10/8 Phan Dinh Giot St, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City; Tel: (08) 3844-1005 Email: dosm@trailsofindochina.com www.trailsofindochina.com

Eastin Grand Hotel Saigon

(TELEPHONE CODE: 08)

Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3823-3333 www.lottehotel.com

Rex Hotel 141 Nguyen Hue St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-2185 www.rexhotelvietnm.com Renaissance Riverside Hotel Saigon 8-15 Ton Duc Thang St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0033 www.renaissance-saigon.com

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

HO CHI MINH CITY

Kelly Hotel 42-44 Thu Khoa Huan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-3364 www.kellyhotel.com.vn An elegant and cosy hotel with good service. Within walking distance to Ben Thanh market, Independence Palace and several museums. Vietnamese food is served at reasonable prices.

Exotissimo 261/26 Phan Xich Long St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3995-9898 www.exotravel.com Saigon Tourist 45 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3827-9279 www.saigon-tourist.net

HOTELS

MUSEUM Cham Culture Exhibition Centre Song Mao intersection, Phan Hiep Commune, Bac Binh Dist., Binh Thuan Province; Tel: (062) 3641-456. Open: 7.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Monday to Friday. Free entrance

Stamford Skin Centre 254 Dien Bien Phu St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3932-1090 Email: info@stamfordskin.com www.stamfordskin.com

17 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3824-1555 Email: h2077@sofitel.com www.sofitel.com Windsor Plaza Hotel 18 An Duong Vuong, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3833-6688 www.windsorplazahotel.com

RESTAURANTS

253 Nguyen Van Troi St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3844-9222 Email: Info@eastingrandSaigon.com www.eastingrandsaigon.com Hotel Majestic 1 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3829-5517 www.majesticsaigon.com.vn InterContinental Asiana Saigon Corner Hai Ba TrungSt. & Le Duan Blvd, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3520-9999 www.intercontinental.com/Saigon

Beef No.1 Restaurant 1 Hoang Viet St, Ward 4, Tan Binh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: 0935891818/ 0919898253 Chit Chat Restaurant Hotel Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City, 242 Tran Binh Trong St, Dist.5, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3839-7777 www.equatorial.com New daily menus for lunch and dinner buffets, all served in a relaxing atmosphere. Au Lac do Brazil I 238 Pasteur, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3820-7157

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DIRECTIONS HO CHI MINH CITY, VUNG TAU Lemongrass Restaurant 4 Nguyen Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-0496 www.bongsencorporation.com Mam Son Restaurant 35 Ton That Thiep St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3915-3653

Dong Gia Enterprise 114 Xuan Thuy St, Thao Dien Ward, Dist.2, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 62960147. www.dong-gia.com Handed by crafts from Vietnam 47 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: 0908 447 282

Tandoor Restaurant 39A-39B Ngo Duc Ke St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3930-4839 www.tandoorvietnam.com Twenty21one restaurant

IPA Nima 85 Pasteur St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City, tel: (08) 3824-2701 IPA Nima is well-known for its bags. Lu's Handmade 240 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Facebook: Lu's Handmade Tropic Shop 89 Dong Khoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3714 www.ofcvn.com/tropic COOKING CLASSES

21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem St, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3930-0840 Satisfying all tastes including European and Asian flavours. Set lunch at VND180,000. A la carte available from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Vatel Saigon Bistronomique-Lounge 120 Bis Suong Nguyet Anh St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 5404-2220 www.vatelsaigon.com BARS & CAFÉS Elle Cafe 45 Ngo Duc Ke St, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6291-8769 Caffe Molinari 5 Le Duan St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3910-6903 Email: molinari@vnn.vn www.caffemolinari.com Sax N’ Art Jazz Club 28 Le Loi St, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-8472. www.saxnart.com SHOPS Authentique Home 113 Le Thanh Ton St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3822-8052 71/1 Mac Thi Buoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3823-8811 www.authentiquehome.com Doma Vina Co., Ltd 50C Tran Binh Trong St, Ward 5, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3550-0558 www.papercraft.com.vn

46 • V I E T N A M

HERITAGE

Mint Culinary School 778/45 Nguyen Kiem St, Phu Nhuan Dist., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 38445500. Email: sales@vca.com.vn www.vca.com.vn Saigon Cooking Class 74/7 Hai Ba Trung St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3825-8485 www.saigoncookingclass.com GALLERIES Artists Long & Ngoc Gallery Grand Hotel (at the lobby), 8 Dong Khoi, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City TeL: (08) 2246-6839 Mobile: 0908 229 708 Email: ngoclongfineart@yahoo.com Apricot Gallery 50 Mac Thi Buoi St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-7962 Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Mobile: 0903 888 431 Email: cthomasgallery@gmail.com www.cthomasgallery.com Open: 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sundays Galerie Quynh Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3824-8284 www.galeriequynh.com Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sàn Art 48/7 Me Linh St, Ward 19, Binh Thanh Dist., Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 6294-7059 www.san-art.org Opening: 10.30 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. every. Closed on Sunday and Monday

I APRIL-MAY 2017

Tu Do Gallery 53 Ho Tung Mau St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3821-0966 www.tudogallery.com Opening: 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. everyday SIGHTSEEINGS Notre Dame Cathedral Cong Xa Paris Square, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Built in 1877, and the Cathedral opened to the public in 1880. The bricks used to build this marvellous structure were shipped from Marseilles. Ben Thanh Market Le Lai St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City The original market was located on the bank of the Ben Nghe River by the old Gia Dinh Fort. In 1859, when the French invaded Saigon and overtook Gia Dinh Fort, Ben Thanh Market was destroyed. It was rebuilt shortly after and remained standing until it was moved to its present location in 1899. Now, Ben Thanh market is a trade centre and a favourite tourist destination, offering a wide range of Vietnamese handicraft, fresh fruits and local specialities. Chinatown – Cho Lon It was set up at the end of the 18th century when the Minh Dynasty in China was overthrown. Chinatown has many shops and private workshops. The most interesting places are Binh Tay market, Soai Kinh Lam fabric whole-sales market, the street of herbal medicine located on Hai Thuong Lan Ong and Thien Hau Temple on Nguyen Trai Street. MUSEUMS Ao Dai Museum 206/19/30 Long Thuan St, District 9, Ho Chi Minh City www.baotangaodaivietnam.com Open daily, closed on Monday from 8.30 a.m. until 5.30 p.m. The entry ticket is VND100,000 for adults Fine Arts Museum of Ho Chi Minh City 97A Pho Duc Chinh St, Nguyen Thai Binh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-4441 www.baotangmythuattphcm.com Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Mondays

Fito Museum 41 Hoang Du Khuong S, Ward 12, Dist. 10, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3864-2430 www.fitomuseum.com.vn Open daily from 8.30 a.m. till 5.30 p.m. Ticket: VND50,000 The first museum of traditional Vietnamese medicine

Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-9741 www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn Open daily 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Independence Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia St, Ben Thanh Ward, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3822-3652 www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn Open daily, 7.30 a.m. to 11.30 a.m., 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Southern Women Museum 202 Vo Thi Sau St, Dist.1, Ho Chi Minh City. Tel: (08) 3932-7130 The History Museum 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem St, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, Ho Chi Minh City Tel: (08) 3829-8146 www.baotanglichsuvn.com 8 a.m. - 11.30 p.m. and 1.30 p.m. - 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Monday War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan St, Ward 6, Dist.3, Ho Chi Minh City, Tel: (08) 3930-5587 Email: warrmhcm@gmail.com Open daily 7.30 a.m. to midday and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m.

VUNG TAU

(TELEPHONE CODE: 064) A popular beach resort town for residents of Ho Chi Minh City, Vung Tau is about 128 km southeast of HCMC. It can be reached either by road or by a 90-minute hydrofoil boat from HCMC. Sitting on a peninsula that sticks out into the East Sea, Vung Tau does not have the most beautiful, or cleanest, beaches in Vietnam but can act as a quick getaway from the buzz of the city. HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily Grand Hotel Vung Tau 2 Nguyen Du St, Ward.1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-888 www.grandhotel.com.vn Muong Thanh Vung Tau Hotel No 09, Thong Nhat St, Ward 1, Vung Tau. Tel: (064) 3835-567 www.vungtau.muongthanh.vn Kieu Anh Hotel 257 Le Hong Phong St, Ward 8, Vung Tau. Tel: (064) 3584-179 www.kieuanhhotel.vn

DIRECTIONS CON DAO, CAN THO, CHAU DOC, PHU QUOC Palace Hotel 1 Nguyen Trai St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel: (064) 3856-411 www.palacehotel.com.vn Petrosetco Hotel 12 Truong Cong Dinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau. Tel: (064) 3624-748 www.petrosetcohotel.vn Petro House Hotel

HOTELS, RESORTS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

Victoria Can Tho Resort Cai Khe Ward, Ninh Kieu Dist., Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3810-111 www.victoriahotels.asia

Chen Sea Resort & Spa Phu Quoc, Centara Boutique Collection Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua Duong, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3995-895 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

MUSEUM Can Tho Museum 1 Hoa Binh St, Tan An Ward, Can Tho Tel: (0710) 3820-955 Open: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. to 5 p.m.); Saturday and Sunday (8 a.m. to 11 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. to 9 p.m.). Closed on Friday. Free admission

63 Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 1, Vung Tau Tel : (064) 3852-014 Hotline: 0961.085.869 Email: info@petrohousehotel.vn www.petrohousehotel.vn The Coast Hotel

HOTELS, RESORTS

CHAU DOC

Eden Resort Phu Quoc Cua Lap Hamlet, Duong To Ward, Phu Quoc District, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3985-598 www.edenresort.com.vn

La Veranda Resort

Tran Hung Dao St, Ward 7, Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island Tel: (077) 3982-988 contact@laverandaresorts.com www.laverandaresorts.com MUSEUM Coi Nguon Museum 149 Tran Hung Dao St, Duong dong Town, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang Province Tel: (077) 3980-206 www.coinguonphuquoc.com

(TELEPHONE CODE: 076) HOTELS Note: Prices at many hotels depend on occupancy and change daily

300A Phan Chu Trinh St, Ward 2, Vung Tau City Tel: (064) 3627-777 Email: info@thecoasthotelvungtau.com www.thecoasthotelvungtau.com MUSEUM White Palace 6 Tran Phu St, Ward.1, Vung Tau City Tel: (064) 3852-605 Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

CON DAO

Six Senses Con Dao Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao Dist., Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province Tel : (064) 3831-222 www.sixsenses.com/resorts/ con-dao/destination

CAN THO

(TELEPHONE CODE: 0710) Can Tho is the largest city in the Mekong Delta, about 170 km southwest of Ho Chi Minh City, and acts as the area’s economic, transportation and cultural centre. Sitting on the Mekong River, Can Tho is popular for its nearby floating markets, canals and rivers that can be explored by boat.

Victoria Chau Doc Hotel 1 Le Loi St, Chau Doc Town, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3865-010 resa.chaudoc@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia Victoria Nui Sam Lodge Vinh Dong 1, Nui Sam, Chau Doc, An Giang Province. Tel: (076) 3575-888 resa.nuisam@victoriahotels.asia www.victoriahotels.asia MUSEUM An Giang Museum 11 Ton Duc Thang St, My Binh Ward, Long Xuyen City, An Giang Province Tel: (076) 3956-248 Open hour 7a.m. to 11a.m. and 1.30 p.m. to 5 p.m. Closed on Monday Entrance fee: VND42,000 ($2)

PHU QUOC

(TELEPHONE CODE: 077) Phu Quoc Island, off the southern tip of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand, has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. White-sand beaches, scuba diving around coral reefs or exploring the protected jungle. Accessible by either the Rach Gia hydrofoil boat or a 50-minute flight from Ho Chi Minh City. Modest family-owned bungalows on the beach to fivestar resorts. APRIL-MAY 2017 I

VIETNAM HERITAGE

• 47

CENTRE OF HO C

Palace 1. IIndependence ndependence P alace

Notre Cathedral 2. N otre Dame C athedral

Vietnam History 3. V ietnam H istory Museum

Fine Arts Museum 4. F ine A rts M useum of of Ho Ho Chi Chi Minh Minh City City E4 E4 Ho Chi Minh City 5. H oC hi M inh C ity Museum

6. Southern Southern Women Women Museum

7. War War Remnants Remnants Museum

8. Ben Ben Thanh Thanh Market Market

9. T Tao Park ao Dan P ark

Post Office 10. P ost O ffice

Zoo oo 11. Z

12. Nha Nha Rong Wharf Wharf

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STREET GUIDE

3 Thang 2..........A2, A3, B2 Alexandre De Rhodes........ ........................................E2 An Duong Vuong....A4, B4 Ba Le Chan....................D1 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan...... ........................................C2 Ban Co...........................B3 Ben Chuong Duong........... .................................D4, E4 Ben Van Don...........D4, E4

Bui Thi Xuan..................C3 Bui Vien...................C4, D4 Cach Mang Thang Tam..... ......A1, B1, B2, C2, C3, D3 Calmette.........................E4 Cao Thang.....................B3 Chu Manh Trinh.............F2 Co Bac.....................C4, D4 Co Giang............. ...C4, D4 Cong Quynh............C3, C4 De Tham........................D4

Dien Bien Phu..................... A3, B2, C2, D1, D2, E1, F1 Dinh Tien Hoang............E1 Do Quang Dau...............C4 Do Thanh.......................B3 Doan Cong Buu.............C1 Doan Nhu Hai..........E4, F4 Dong Du.........................F3 Dong Khoi................E3, F3 Hai Ba Trung....................... ...........................D1, E2, F3 Hai Trieu.........................F4

Ham Nghi.................E4, F4 Han Thuyen....................E2 Ho Hao Hon...................C4 Ho Tung Mau...........E3, E4 Ho Xuan Huong.............C2 Hoa Hung.......................A2 Hung Vuong...................A4 Huyen Tran Cong Chua..... ........................................D3 Huynh Thuc Khang........E3 Huynh Tinh Cua.............D1 Ky Con.....................D4, E4

Ky Dong...................B2, C1 Le Duan...................E2, F2 Le Hong Phong.................. ...........................A2, A3, A4 Le Lai.......................C3, D3 Le Loi..............................E3 Le Quy Don....................D2 Le Thanh Ton...................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Le Thi Hong Gam............... .................................D4, E4 Le Thi Rieng............C3, D3

Le Van Sy.......................B1 Luong Huu Khanh.........C3 Ly Chinh Thang.......C1, C2 Ly Thai To......................A3 Ly Tu Trong......................... ...........................D3, E3, F2 Ly Van Phuc...................E1 Mac Dinh Chi...........E1, E2 Mac Thi Buoi..................F3 Mai Thi Luu..............E1, F1 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia............ ...................C1, D1, D2, D3

N N N N .. N N .. N .. N N

1 3 2 3 .. 2 1 2 3 1 .. 3

CHI MINH CITY D

6 4 11 11

7 2

10 10

9 8

1 2 12

Ngo Duc Ke....................F3 Ngo Thoi Nhiem ....C2, D2 Ngo Van Nam.................F2 Nguyen Binh Khiem.............. .....................................F1, F2 Nguyen Cau...................D1 Nguyen Cong Tru............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Dinh Chieu............ ......B3, C2, C3, D2, E1, F1 Nguyen Du..............D3, E3 Nguyen Hue.............E3, F3

Nguyen Khac Nhu.............. .................................C4, D4 Nam Quoc Cang.....C3, C4 Nguyen Phi Khanh.........E1 Nguyen Sieu...................F3 Nguyen Son Tra................. .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Tat Thanh..........F4 Nguyen Thai Binh............... .................................D4, E4 Nguyen Thai Hoc....D3, D4 Nguyen Thanh Y............E1

Nguyen Thi Dieu............C2 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai........ .................................B3, C3 Nguyen Thien Thuat........... .................................A3, B3 Nguyen Thong........B2, C2 Nguyen Thuong Hien........ .................................B2, C3 Nguyen Trai.............B4, C4 Nguyen Trung Ngan......F2 Nguyen Trung Truc........E3 Nguyen Truong To.........E4

Nguyen Van Cu..............B4 Nguyen Van Thu......E1, F1 Pasteur................................ ...............D1, D2, E2, E3,E4 Pham Ngoc Thach.........D1 Pham Ngu Lao........C4, D4 Pham Viet Chanh...........B3 Phan Ke Binh..........E1, E2 Pho Duc Chinh...............E4 Phung Khac Khoan.......E2 Suong Nguyet Anh........C3 Thach Thi Thanh.....D1, E1

Thai Van Lung................F3 Thi Sach.........................F3 Thu Khoa Huan.......D3, E3 To Hien Thanh................A1 Ton That Dam..........E3, E4 Ton Duc Thang..............C3 Tran Binh Trong......A3, A4 Tran Cao Van.................E2 Tran Dinh Xu...........B4, C4 Tran Hung Dao.......C4, D4 Tran Minh Quyen...........A3 Tran Nhan Tong.......A3, A4

Tran Phu.........................A4 Tran Quang Dieu...........B1 Tran Quang Khai.....D1, E1 Tran Quoc Thao......C1, D2 Tran Quoc Toan......C1, D1 Truong Dinh............C1, C2 Tu Xuong.......................C2 Vinh Vien........................A3 Vo Thi Sau........C2, D1, E1 Vo Van Tan..............C3, B3 Vuon Chuoi..............B2, B3 Yersin..............................D4

LA PAZ R ES OR T T UAN CHAU – HA LONG Located in the beautiful Tuan Chau Island by the entrance of Halong Bay, La Paz Resort (formerly known as Tuan Chau Island Holiday Villas) accommodates 207 beautifully-designed rooms inspired by both French and Vietnamese influences. The natural grace of Halong Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site lays within sight, view stretches of pine hills and private beaches. La Paz Resort offers the most luxurious homes away from home and will give you and your family a lasting impression while immersing in the true beauty of the island.

LA PAZ RESORT – TUAN CHAU HA LONG Tuan Chau Island, Halong, Quang Ninh Tel: 033 3842 999 | Hotline: 0986 755 648 Email: info@lapazresorts.com | Website: www.lapazresorts.com