NICHE FEATURE: MEM-SAAB
Culinary elegance:
A night at Mem-Saab For Raj Kooner, great food is the family business. After a threeyear break, Leicester’s award winning restaurant, Mem-Saab, has returned to action. Tom Young spoke to Raj about his approach to running a restaurant and accepted an invitation to dinner
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here’s an undeniable elegance to Mem-Saab that greets you from the moment you enter the building. Immaculately decorated, they’ve kept all the original coving and ceilings, consistent with the general advice about Leicester – always look up to see the city’s architectural beauty. Located on Vaughan Way, Mem-Saab was founded by Raj’s mother, Pam, and her brothers in August 1996. “We own the building,” says Raj. “Some of my earliest memories are from running around the place when we were kids. I started working here when I was 14 – my dad dropped me off, having told me I was coming for a meal; next thing I knew, I was working in the kitchen!” There’s a personal touch to the restaurant that adds to the authenticity – Raj is very hands-on, greeting me and my
partner on arrival, making menu recommendations, and ensuring we – and all his guests – were well looked after. I was quite keen that we each order different things to get a broader sense of the menu, and Raj recommended some excellent choices, including the Butter Chicken Masala (ordered for me, but my partner enjoyed it so much we ended up swapping) and the Achari Paneer Shashlik starter. “There’s a lot of Indian restaurants in Leicester,” Raj told me, “but if you want luxury and elegant surroundings, coupled with great food and a friendly service, there was a gap in the market. I wish there was more, because I love eating out too!” Mem-Saab uses all fresh ingredients, with new deliveries twice a week, and take great pride in where they source their quality produce. Raj tells me all dietary requirements are catered
SOME OF MY EARLIEST MEMORIES ARE FROM RUNNING AROUND THE PLACE WHEN WE WERE KIDS
for, ensuring there is something for everyone to enjoy. One of the chefs has been at Mem-Saab for 15 years, the other has just moved over from one of the best restaurants in Dubai, Armani/ Amal. Luxury is taken very seriously here. Raj is particularly proud of Mem-Saab’s dessert menu, and he’s right to be – my girlfriend works in the area and is already planning to pop in for the homemade pista kulfi (pistachio ice cream) as often as she can. “Everything’s made in house, including the desserts. Dessert sales in Indian restaurants are usually non-existent, but we do very well. We perfected our pista kulfi during lockdown!” A thoroughly enjoyable dining experience, I’ll certainly be going back to Mem-Saab in the future. Visit memsaableicester.com to view the menus and to make a booking. NICHE | 83
