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ISSUE 10 • VOLUME 3
WINTER 2011/12
Enjoy this COMPLIMENTARY issue To subscribe visit savourmag.com
INSIDE
Explore BC VQA
WINTER 2011/12
February 10 –11, 2012, Kelowna
Gold Medal Plates
BE THERE
as nine Gold Medal winning chefs from across the country compete in three thrilling and gruelling challenges: Mystery Wine Pairing Competition Black Box Competition Grand Finale Competition CALGARY
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Marc Lepine Atelier
Michael Dacquisto Dacquisto
EDMONTON
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VANCOUVER
Jan Trittenbach Packrat Louie
Anthony McCarthy Saskatoon Club, Saskatoon
Rob Feenie Cactus Club Restaurants
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TORONTO
Jean-Philippe St- Denis Kitchen Galerie Poisson
Mike Barsky Bacalao
Jonathan Gushue Langdon Hall Country House Hotel & Spa
Featuring Olympic Gold, Silver, and Bronze Medallist Adam van Koeverden Order your tickets today www.goldmedalplates.com 1-250-469-4344
The 14th Annual AL UA h ANNU 4 tth H E 114 TH T
2 0 112 20 2, 2 22 4 –2 Y 14 U A RY A N UA JJA
Winter Festival of Wine
January 14 - 22, 2012
For more information call the Okanagan Wine Festival Society at 250.861.6654, www.thewinefestivals.com or from your mobile phone at www.owfs.mobi
SPONS
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EVENT
BY
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The Okanagan Wine
Festivals
Start Planning Your Visit to Okanagan Wine Country The Spring Okanagan Wine Festival 2012: May 4 - 13 2013: May 3 - 12 The Summer Okanagan Wine Festival 2012: July 7 - 15 2013: July 6 - 14 The Fall Okanagan Wine Festival 2011: September 30 - October 9 2012: September 28 - October 7 2013: October 4 - 14 Winter Festival of Wine 2012: January 14 - 22 2013: January 16 - 20
Purchase Your Tickets Today!
For more information on our four annual Okanagan Wine Festivals,
contact www.thewinefestivals.com or email info@thewinefestivals.com or call
250-861-6654.
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Winter
Contents Chef Rod Butters Champions Local Cuisine
Easy Winter
Home Entertaining 30
20
Root Vegetables 22 4
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
Social Enterprise Cafés 28
Featuring
RauDZ
BRITISH COLUMBIA MADE
COVER:
GOURMET
Regional Table
WINTER Gourmet GETAWAYS
Chef Rod Butters
Caramelized Pear & Beet Tart Chevre Mousse and Candy Floss
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ISSUE 10 • VOLUME 3
See page 45 for Chef Butter's recipe
Why
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INSIDE
Explore BC VQA
WINTER 2011/12
Explore BC VQA 51
Columns Dish .......................................... 10 Side Dishes .............................. 16 SHOPPING GUIDE: EDITOR'S PICKS
65
How to Gift a Bottle ................. 27 John Schreiner
Dirt on Dirt, PART 2................... 35
Departments
Savour Spots – Spicy Eats ....... 37
Managing Editor's Letter.......... 7
Ezra Cipes
Victoria: HERNANDE'Z COCINA Vancouver: FINCH'S TEA & COFFEE HOUSE Nelson: THE ALL SEASONS CAFÉ
Savour Its ................................. 40 KITCHEN GADGETS
Letters to the Editor .................. 8 Book Reviews ........................... 42 Seasonal Recipes ...................... 45 WINTER WARMERS
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
5
contributors GOURMET
ANDREW FINDLAY is an award-winning writer who lives in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island. He loves food. He grew up in a household with a French mother and a Scottish father, and a schizophrenic daily menu that alternated between rustic Celtic fare and Provencal.
Editor-in-Chief:
Managing Editor: Dona Sturmanis Art Director:
Donna Szelest
Contributors:
Andrew Findlay Ezra Cipes John Schreiner Rand Zacharias Roslyne Buchanan Rhys Pender
EZRA CIPES is the chief operations officer at Summerhill Pyramid Winery. JOHN SCHREINER, based in North Vancouver, B.C., is Canada's most prolific author of wine books. He has authored 12 since 1984, including three Whitecap bestsellers: British Columbia Wine Country, The Wineries of British Columbia and John Schreiner's Okanagan Wine Tour Guide. A companion volume, John Schreiner's Coastal BC Wineries Tour Guide, was released in April, 2011.
Cover Photograph: Shawn Talbot Unless credited, all photos are submitted or taken by staff. Publisher:
Naramata, B.C. and a regular contributor to Savour
Craig N. Brown
Director of Sales: Roy Kunicky To subscribe:
ROSLYNE BUCHANAN is a freelance writer living in
Chytra M. Brown
subscribe@savourmag.com
Savour Magazine is published quarterly. Copyright (2011)
Magazine. RHYS PENDER, MW is very connected to the wine industry in B.C. He operates a wine education school, Wine+, and is a qualified judge for many wine events and sits on the board of the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society. RAND ZACHARIAS, a freelance journalist and editor, teaches writing at Okanagan College, has authored a book and is working his next. The father of three, he loves his kids, the Okanagan Valley and sharing historical, educational and industrial interests with his friends and readers. Brought up in a family of cooks and canners, he is a passionate foodie and a great fan of cooking shows.
6
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
211 – 1433 St. Paul Street, Kelowna, BC V1Y 2E4 T. 250-868-2229 F. 250-868-2278 www.nichemedia.ca Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement No.7296429. Publication Mail Agreement No. 41835528 The views expressed in Savour Magazine are those of the respective contributors and not the publisher or staff. No part of this publication may be produced without written consent of the publisher. PRINTED IN CANADA
letter from theeditor t
he cold season is upon us and there is nothing more warming to the soul and spirit than good food and drink. In this special issue of Savour, we present you with a myriad of wonderful ideas for cooking, sipping, entertaining and getting away. Wine expert John Schreiner fills you in on how to gift the right bottle of wine and Summerhill Winery’s Ezra Cipes discusses the concept of terroir with Tinhorn Creek winemaker and co-founder Sandra Oldfield. Regular contributor Roslyne Buchanan explores the hearty cuisine of root vegetables and profiles Kim Pullen of Church & State Winery. Rand Zacharias reviews the latest in kitchen gadgets and some top B.C. nosh spots. Andrew Findlay looks at social enterprise cafes in B.C., a concept that combines food with activism. Sommelier Rhys Pender helps you pick out the best wines for winter.
look! win!
Enter to win an Ipad 2! The first 200 tickets purchased to the
2012 Okanagan Spring Wine Festival WestJet Wine Tastings (Friday or Saturday) will be entered. Tickets can be purchased at selectyourtickets.com. Must enter the code: savour when purchasing in order to qualify. Bonfire Savour Mag Ad Dec 2011 Size: 2.5" w x 5.0" h • REV 1 • Dec 09/11
Entertaining at home is foremost on our minds this winter and there are many creative twists we can add to the usual dinner or cocktail party. For example, we can bring people together to cook together; a great bonding experience. We explore some of these entertaining ideas this issue. We can also use food as a great excuse to leave and take a culinary holiday. We offer you some suggestions for great dining adventures. And finally, we are honoured to profile Chef Rod Butters, owner of RauDZ Regional Table in Kelowna. An inductee in the B.C. Restaurant Hall of Fame, he has contributed significantly to the concept of local cuisine. Enjoy the recipe for his gourmet creation on our cover! Dona Sturmanis Managing Editor, Savour editor@savourmag.com
Like us on facebook: Savour Magazine Follow us on Twitter @savourmagazine
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letters to theeditor y
ou and your team are true professionals and you make us chefs look like rock stars! Each issue of Savour seems to capture the Okanagan food and wine buzz and amplify it to the public in a way that makes all of us in this industry feel like we are a part of something important. Agritourism in the Okanagan owes you a salute! I can’t wait to see the next issue. Amazing layout, great colors, informative and educational content. If you could pass this letter on to all who contibute to your magazine that would be great. Executive Chef Jesse Croy Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Sunset Bistro
ENJOY the
Winter
Festival of Wine
eat local.
January 14-22, 2012 For the full story, go to savourmag.com
drink local.
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Compiled & written by Chytra Brown
y the time you read this, the national Gold Medal Plates (GMP) competitions will have taken place across the country. In early November, the regional GMP competition was held in Vancouver. The Gold Metal Plates are the ultimate celebration of Canadian Medal excellence in cuisine, wine, the arts and athletic achievement. At the Vancouver competition on November 4th, we saw B.C.'s top chefs vying for a position in the Canadian Culinary Championships that will be held in February in Kelowna. It was a tense evening as some of B.C.'s top chefs served up their specially prepared dishes and awaited the results from the judges. These are serious competitors with the steadfast resolution of soldiers in battle. Tantalus Vineyards was thrilled to walk away from the event with their 2009 Old Vines Riesling being named winner of the top wine of the night! It's no surprise they won this acclaim. Tantalus's Riesling has continuously received accolades from recognized wine critics. A stunning pair at the Vancouver Gold Medal Plates was Chef Mark Filatow's (Waterfront Wines) pork hock and foie gras terrine and Quadra Island scallop with a gelée base made with 2011 Tantalus Riesling juice, infused with ginger, local Pimente D’Espelette and fresh orange segments. Chef Filatow's excitement is not easily contained as he prepares for the expansion of the Waterfront Bistro. The current location is directly beside Metro Liquor, which has now moved to 1175 Ellis Street directly across from the historic train station. Waterfront will close te la p l' ca from December lo utters' Chef Rod B P M G r and re-open early uve at the Vanco February. The restaurant space will double in size and no doubt to the obvious delight of Waterfront's loyal
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magazine • WINTER 2011/12
following that often waits in line for a table. Yes, it's that good. Chef Rod Butters of RauDZ Regional Table in Kelowna won high praise during the Vancouver Gold Medal Plates for his approach to staunch localism. Butters meticulously sourced local Okanagan ingredients...and a local brewery? His much-talked about ‘local’ plate showcased Chevon (goat) raised expressly for the competition by Takoff Farm in the Joe Rich area of Kelowna, with Chef Butters creating a curried shoulder, apricot chutney sausage, masala loin with quinoa and chevre OUR BLUEPRINT FOR SUPPORTING LOCA L and chai reduction. The entire plate Curried Quinoa Masala Pickled Shoulder Apricot Chutney Micro + Chevre Loin Mint Sliced Indigo Noma Gherkin Sausag e & Cilantro (except salt) was from the Okanagan Carrot Radish with many of the items grown specifically for this competition. Takoff Green City Takoff Farm Sunshine Acres Thauberger Green City Sunshi Farm ne While each competitor’s dish Sunshine *31.5 kms Farm *.8 kms Charcutiere *31.5 kms Acres Farm Farm *11.1 kms *93.2 kms *.8 kms *11.1 kms *11.1 kms was paired with a beverage, again Event Client Butters pushed the Gold Medal envelope, Plates Web RauDZ Regional Table Chef resisting the usual wine pairing by creating his own beer. Continuing the flavour of the apricot from the chutney sausage, 51 pounds of wild apricots from a tree in Chef Butters’s yard were used by Cannery Brewery (read further to find out all about the 10th anniversary celebration) in Penticton to create an APA styled beer, suitably named Apricot Pail Ale, referencing both the wild apricots and the metal pails used to collect them. You can visit raudz.com to learn more about Chef Butters' 'blueprint' used in this competition. Chef Rob Feenie won the Vancouver Gold Medal Plates for his rabbit leg confit with ragout of veal tongue and porcini mushrooms. Dale McKay of Ensemble placed a very close second with a dish featuring spot prawns and Thai spices. Chef Joel apriici Sttatartrt Ca coc hopefe ot bebeeeerer nnereryry B rerew fufullllyly abo e b wilildld out 9 w w eeeekeksk ap yaard rd a riicicocotsts o s rere g n m oining tot beb
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add Cascade tomatoes from Stoney Paradise
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great organic carrot s from Jon @Sunshine Farm ... slice thin
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Rod Butters
dish Watanabe of Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie capturing third with a pork belly dish. For information on this and the upcoming competition visit goldmedalplates.com And speaking of Cannery Brewing, which brewed their first batch of beer in Penticton on April Fool's Day, 2001, they just celebrated their 10th anniversary on November 6th. The high energy event brought together over 200 Cannery Brewing supporters ranging from liquor stores to restaurants and pubs, to suppliers and partners and loyal Cannery Brewing fans that helped them get to where they are today. Attendees enjoyed being a part of the tapping of a commemorative cask of beer (a traditional cask-conditioned Porter), enjoyed food made with Cannery Brewing beers, listened to live music and entered to win the grand prize of a beer fridge full of home beers. For more information on Cannery Brewing, visit cannerybrewing.ca Vikram Vij has announced his new state-of-the-art production facility, which produces healthful frozen foods. It’s now affordable and attainable to get your hands on the great cuisine that you may have to wait in line for if you’re dining at his restaurant. The curries are quick-frozen immediately after cooking, which ensures the integrity of their taste, texture and nutrition. Frozen products can be transported by road, rail or container
ship, all of which have a much lower environmental impact than air freighting refrigerated foods that have much shorter shelf lives. Vikram Vij and his wife, Meeru, opened Vij’s restaurant in Vancouver, British Columbia with the premise that there is no such thing Cannery Bre wing's tapp ing of the cask as a typical Indian curry. "We combine Indian spices and cooking techniques with local meats and produce to come up with creative, original recipes. We love everything about food—real food that is cooked by hand, with real ingredients." Want more Vij? Check out our Savour Its column to get some inside information on tips, techniques and must haves from Vikram and Meeru Vij. Tony Stewart, Quail’s Gate Estate Winery, along with partner Dan Zepponi, has introduced their new label, a Californian
generations of Stewart’s have been farming land. Our father, Richard stewart, identified that this 1 place, poiL ourly enses the Okanagan Valley, and more precise the site of was destined for greatness. In 1961 he planted the first vinifera Chasselas in his quest to grow quality grapes. His spurred our family s Today we CELEBRATE 50 years of growing grapes Okanagan Valley. For a year, from 1 valley, 16 grape VARIETALS our focus is consistent; to be Canada’s leading quality wines, namely, PINOT NOIR and Chardonnay.
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Fine Italian Dining
Authentic Italian Dining Enjoy a sensory experience where each course is savoured, every aroma enjoyed and taste treasured.
1451 Ellis street, Kelowna BC (Downtown Cultural District)
For Reservations:
250.763.3110 www.labussolarestaurant.com
L ocaL F are M enu | Through April 17 T ours & T asTings D aiLy | Wine Shop is open daily 10 am - 6pm F eaTure L unch & D inner |
Spring Wine Festival April 28 - May 8 PROUD SPONSOR OF
dish grown Sauvignon simply titled Plume. In a joint partnership between the Stewart family and the Zepponi family, the creation of Plume evolved. But this isn’t like any other label in the Stewart family line up; this is a Napa Valley grown and produced wine, sold here in Canada. Given the Zepponi family history in the Napa region, this is an ideal marriage. A 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon will be the first release for Plume. Partners Stewart and Zepponi are thrilled to offer a wine thats grapes are carefully selected, to produce a result with complexity and a depth of layers. The Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for 18 months in French oak barrels. Plume 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon will be for sale in the BCLDB and private wine stores across B.C. in mid November and will retail for $29.99 Cdn., and around $24 in the U.S.. Visit: plumewinery.com Summerland's, Okanagan Crush Pad has created an exciting campaign to celebrate rosé, 365 Days of Rosé. The goal is to illustrate rosé’s versatility as it relates to food and wine pairing and entertaining. The OCP's rose is a distinctive, dry, vibrant style made from 100% Gamay Noir. With this year’s release of the Bartier Scholefield Rosé, Okanagan Crush Pad has furthered its commitment to produce serious wines that are reflective of the Okanagan’s rich terroir. Wine advisor David Scholefield describes the inaugural vintage of his rosé that he created with winemaker Michael Bartier: “It’s lightly tannic as all good rosés ought to be,” he says, “with refreshing acidity and subtle, yet undertones of red berries.” Recipes and ideas are available on the Okanagan Crush Pad's website. Or try your hand at the recipe in this issue for Two Tone Soup paired delightfully with the Bartier Rose. Okanagan Crush Pad Rosé can be found at Marquis Wine Cellars, Firefly Fine Wines and Ales, and other fine wine stores, and are available online at www.okanagancrushpad.com During the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival, Kalala Organic Estate Winery celebrated a launch of their series of new labels. Dostana and 3Cru. The Dostana label is the top tier of the Kalala offerings and will feature a single varietal Riesling, Gewürztraminer and a Merlot. While 3Cru Nomad is a fun and approachable blend of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris, the 3Cru red blend, Traveller, consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. 12
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
Dostana means friendship in Hindi and is an appropriate name, considering the values that transcend throughout the Kalala family. It is also appropriate that 3Cru represents a union of friendship amongst three families that are partners in this venture. Limited amounts of each of these wines are available at the winery. The Dostana Merlot is priced at $29.90, the Gewürztraminer at $22.90 and the Riesling at $19.90. 3Cru wines are also great price point at only $19.90 each. Visit Kalala Organic Estate Winery in West Kelowna, located at 3361 Glencoe Road or visit them online at organicestatesofbc.com. The Alexis de Portneuf Young Chefs Competition at the Culinary Arts Centre in Okanagan College was an event not to miss this past Okanagan Fall Wine Festival. It was an impressive event where young chefs pulled out all the stops. With ingenious creativity, each team served up stunning appetizers, desserts and entrees, all using either an ash-ripened goat cheese, Le Cendrillon, or the soft gooeyness of La Sauvagine. Each young chef vied for the coveted Top Young Chef award. The second award was given to the outstanding apprentice team. The Top Young Chef award was given to Eric Mummery, Delta Grand for his seared quail blue cheese polenta, hazelnut crusted brie cream, ash goat cheese & poached pear and berry gastrique, paired with CedarCreek Estate Winery's Platinum 2007 Syrah. The Top Apprentice Team award was given to Jim Armstrong, Infusions Restaurant, Okanagan College, for clever use of braised rabbit leg in a La Sauvagine ravioli. prosciutto wrapped loin with chanterelle s intensely erson plate Tiffany And mushroom jus, micro greens petition g Chefs Com at the Youn and chive oil, paired with Ex st Wine Fe during Fall Nihilo Vineyards 2010 Riesling. A fun twist for the guests was the chance to win a cash prize. By voting on a favorite food and wine pairing, they were entered to win $250! For more information on events offered during Okanagan Wine Festivals visit thefestivals.com Wineries in B.C. are quickly realizing that China is becoming the fastest growing wine market in the world; they are seeking quality Icewines, but now also table wines. B.C. is working toward building relationships with China to support this. Okanagan wineries such as Jackson-Triggs, Okanagan Estate, Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Painted Rock Winery and Aces Okanagan Estate are all available in China. Summerhill Pyramid Winery and Savour Magazine
dish photo cred
it: red door
photogra
phic & desig
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setting to a local farmer's market. With an increase in Junior Chef Eric Mummery's the desire for less winning dish at the Young waste and the popChefs Competition ularity of the 100 recently held their event on Mobile Juic mile diet, this is a e Factory ju ice truck November 18th. Winemaker Erik brilliant venture and Von Krosigk and Executive Chef we can't wait to see what Deiter does next... For more Jesse Croy presented a food and information check out the website mobilejuicefactory.com Summerhill Winery's Ez wine match made in heaven. ra Cipes durin Being a coffee lover is usually a rewarding thing. And we've g a recent trade mission The guests were wowed by discovered this is the case with a great little coffee shop in to China Chef Croy's experimental style. There Penticton, Gathering Grounds Cafe Society. It's located were unique menu items, such as the celeriac & quince pureed directly across from the Penticton and Wine Information Centre soup, paired delightfully with the Summerhill Riesling and the at 756 Eckhardt Avenue West. Not only are they serving great Cabernet Sauvignon. The favorite pairing of the event was, coffee but operate as a non-profit society-providing aid to the hands down, espresso-crusted Vancouver Island Venison Loin less fortunate in the community of Penticton. paired with the Summerhill Syrah! Great job done by the team A supporter of this ideal, Diane McEvoy, founder and at Summerhill Pyramid Winery. organizer of Giving Others A Boost, hosts an entrepreneurs Waste not...Okanagan entrepreneur Frank Deiter is at it networking event there every two months. Working collaboraagain! Deiter is the founder of Okanagan Spirits, a German man tively with local businesses, chefs and wineries, this networking with plenty of experistrategy is proving to be quite successful for the local entrepreence in the agricultural neurs. The events are always in support of a local charity. industry. This sense of nature and understanding farming practices has instilled a sense of community and practicality in Deiter. He has long been an advocate Chef Jesse C roy's espress of less waste. This o crusted Ven ison passion led him to build a juicing trailer with a high tech pasteurizing and packaging system and the upstart of the Mobile Juice Factory. The philosophy - andy warhol is simple but the rewards are great. We’re bringing cocktails back to the classroom with our Not only is this a business venture for Deiter, but he is also Liquid Sundays. Led by award-winning mixologist creating a sustainable economy for the orchardists by providing Liquid Chef Gerry Jobe, we’ve taken the traditional cooking this service, a valued cost savings to the farmers. Deiter is also class and shaken it up with a new curriculum of cocktails to develop our third semester of a new eight week program the importer for the juicing equipment as he sees many more we call Liquid Sundays. Sit up at the bar, learn a little, units in action, not only in B.C., but also back east and in the U.S. taste a little & laugh a lot with our Liquid Chefs. Join us Having lived in the Okanagan Valley for 12 Sundays from 5:00 - 6:30 pm starting Jan 15th. Come for Guests Jessic years, Deiter has the conneca and Travi s at one class or come for all! Tickets are $40 and advance the Summer hill/Savour tions necessary to run Mag purchase is required as space is limited. For more details wine dinner this operation, fostered visit our website or contact info@raudz.com during his time operat-Chef Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao ing his previous business, Okanagan Spirits. Because the Mobile © Juice Factory is on wheels, REGIONAL TABLE it can be set up nearly anyFRESH • LOCAL • COMFORTABLE where, from the orchard
I ALWAYS SAY, ONE’S COMPANY, TWO’S A CROWD AND THREE’S A PARTY!
RauDZ
Open 7 days a week from 5:00 p.m. 1560 Water Street, Kelowna 250•868•8805 www.raudz.com
dish Each event features three to four entrepreneurs or small businesses, and guests enjoy some great food, wine and entertainment while networking and donating to a good cause. The cost to support is $20 per person and more information can be found on the Giving Others a Boost Facebook page. The Vancouver Aquarium is the host of several great food and wine events throughout the year, most recently, the aquarium’s fourth annual Ocean Wise Seafood Chowder Chowdown Competition. Competition was fierce with 12 top chefs from all over B.C. participating. Each Ocean Wise chowder was paired with a thirst-quenching local craft beer. By a unanimous vote, Chef Paul Cecconi, Local Lounge in Summerland, B.C., won for his smoked oyster chowder. You can enjoy this winning chowder at the restaurant located in Summerland, BC. Still stewing with creativity, Chef Cecconi graciously approached Terry David Mulligan, host of Tasting Room Radio, to create a dish that would be
representative of his newly released book, Mulligan's Stew-My Life...So Far. The idea was to serve the stew to Mulligan's fans, during a recent book signing. During the Festival of Lights in Summerland, fans of the book enjoyed a laugh or two with Mulligan and slurps of the spicy Mulligan stew. Here is what fan, Luke Whittall, winecountrybc.ca had to say about Chef Cecconi's stew: "Mulligan's Stew was a big, spicy, full-flavored stew based around chorizo and steak. The spiciness came mostly from the chorizo but the smoked paprika and chili flakes just took it to a whole other level. So tasty and filling but without being heavy." The wonderful town of Summerland recently celebrated the season with the 24th annual Festival of Lights. Each year Main Street becomes an outdoor market and provides families with local shopping, dining and fun and Summerland Light up the it’s all followed up with a specnery's Vines, Thornhaven Wi tacular fireworks show. And the hts lig of display newly created event on Saturday night, Light up the Vines on the Nov. 26th, was spectacular, with a shuttle bus tour of the Bottleneck Drive Association wineries participating in a 'lighting-up' of the vines. Delectable morsels were offered by some of the wineries as prix fixe menus. The afternoon was a delightful wandering of Summerland's wineries and followed up with an evening at the Local Lounge for the after party. The town of Summerland and locals and visitors alike, had a great weekend. At Bonita’s Bistro in Summerland, Chef Colin Rayner has enjoyed a busy season since opening this past summer. The bistro will take a reprieve over the winter months and re-open in February and Chef Rayner anticipates a busy season in the New Year. Chef Rayners suggests booking your events early to avoid disappointment. After all, the bistro, located at Bonita’s Winery, boasts one of the most stunning views in the Okanagan! You can contact Chef Rayner by email bonitasbistro@shaw.ca. In Kelowna, changes abound for the quaint little establishment, Le Plateau. Recently, Chef Katelyn Boutilier has been promoted from Sous Chef to Executive Chef. Chef Boutilier spent her apprenticeship at RauDZ Regional Table, and is proud to have competed in the Regional Junior Championships in Kelowna during her apprenticeship where she took 1st place. She is a graduate of the Northwest Culinary Academy of Vancouver. When asked about her philosophy about the restaurant and being a chef she has this to say, "what is really important to me as a cook, sourcing amazing food from my home town, supporting the farms we live and breathe in, and focusing on providing a conscious dining experience, which brings something special and much needed to Kelowna." leplateaubistro.ca
dish Having just recently celebrated their grand renovation opening in November, Valoroso Foods Scarf Winery continues the The Kitchenette @ Silk ht up the Vines Lig 's tradition of supduring Summerland plying fine Italian and European specialties to the Okanagan and across Canada. Valoroso Foods, started by Joe Valoroso Sr. over 18 years ago, completed their interior and exterior building renovations this past fall. The new facility is complete with a larger selection of product, a deli counter serving delightful Italian dishes and a coffee bar. It's a great place to pick up the necessities of good food while enjoying a nosh or a cappuccino. You will find them at 1467 Sutherland Ave. in Kelowna and on Twitter & Facebook. Kelowna welcomes Crescendo, a gourmet store offering unique and hard-to-find spices and spice blends, oils and award-winning balsamic fruit vinegars. A varied selection of curries and rubs are available and all fresh, not pre-packaged. Gourmet salts are also available including Inca, basil, citrus, celery, fleur de sel and a variety called Hawaiian gold and black salt. A must try! Crescendo has a parent store in Revelstoke located at 311 First Street, or you can call them at 250-8376552. The Kelowna location is in
Mission Park Shopping Centre, 41-3155 Lakeshore Rd. or call 250-861-7260. To visit them online: crescendocanada.com. We are pleased to recognize the talented team at Poppadom's Restaurant in Kelowna for being awarded the Kelowna Chamber of Commerce Rising Star award. This award is truly earned and the Dynamic Poppadom's famiy Poppadom's team is a receives Rising Star consistent winner with award local customers. The team is always looking for new and exciting ways to offer more to the customers. Poppadom's offers cooking classes and some very well put on events. For information about Poppadom's and their events visit poppadoms.ca. The team at Codfather's Seafood is thrilled to finally be launching their new website. The Codfather's store is very special and unique to fine food lovers in the Okanagan. Owners Jon and Anne-Marie Croft are meticulous about the fish they carry—only Ocean Wise products and they supply it to a majority of fine restaurants in the Okanagan. Jon is very active when it comes to sustainability and supporting the community with events. Check out the new website: codfathers.ca. Support your favorite Okanagan restaurant, or try a new dining adventure during the annual Wine & Dine 2012. From Jan. 18th to Feb. 5th sip, savour and save on set three course menus and Okanagan wines will be featured for $15, $25 or $35 at your favorite Thompson/Okanagan restaurants. For a complete list of participating restaurants visit bcrfa.com Okanagan Street Food: it’s a homey diner-style restaurant, but the food is far from being greasy spoon. With items on the menu like the market breakfast wrap, fresh cut fries and the famous fish taco, it's no wonder that locals flock to this great nosh spot. Chef Neil Schroeter and his great staff will welcome you like a member of the family. The great selection of hot sauces may even tempt you to bring in a new bottle of your favorite, and in exchange you will be given a breakfast wrap on
250 860 0742 or 250 215 1331 • #1-2287 Ward Road, Kelowna BC • Tasting room hours 12pm to 5pm • theviewwinery.com
dish
side dishes
the house. Located at 812 Crowley Avenue, Kelowna. Okanagan Spirits opened the doors of the new Kelowna location during the launch on December 8th. The tasting bar is warm and inviting, with it's reclaimed timber beams and warm lighting. You can enjoy a visit to the recently opened location at 267 Bernard to sample the products for yourself. We recommend the newly released Gin and of course, all the other Okanagan Spirits products are stellar! Enjoy!
ALL CLAD D5 COOKWARE
This line of cookware is in the top of its class. All Clad's D5 stainless steel line utilizes five layers of construction, which all serve a specific purpose. This product is 20% more efficient than its predecessors, so you can cook at a lower temperature and still achieve great results. Some of the wonderful features besides the core construction are the non-drip pouring, stay cool handles with finger guards, and larger handles for use with oven mitts, and of course style and beauty. Each set contains an 8" and 10" frying pan, two and three quart saucepans, three quart sauté pan and an eight quart stock pot.
Retail Price: $899.99
Correction Notice In a previous issue of Savour Magazine, Summer 2011, it was noted that Summerhill Pyramid Winery has made their wines available in eco-friendly three litre boxes. In error, the boxed wine was referred to as being VQA. We would like to clarify that by the rules of the BC Wine Authority tasting panel, BC VQA wine cannot be packaged in a box, but only packaged in bottles; referring to section 56(1) of the BC Wine Authority regulations.
Wine Country Cuisine by Chef Bernard Casavant. Simply fresh. It’s a shore thing.
Chef's Edge 2445 Highway 97 North Phone: 250-868-2425 For information on this and more products visit: chefsedge.ca
restaurant
@
On the shores of beautiful Okanagan Lake 3762 Lakeshore Road, Kelowna, B.C. 1.800.445.5255 • www.wildapplerestaurant.com fb.com/wildapplemanteo • twitter.com/wildapplemanteo
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49° ORGANICS GOURMET SAUCES
These gourmet sauces are each uniquely delicious and innovative, handcrafted using only the highest quality, certified organic ingredients. Owners Kate Bell and Rob Obst, chefs, visual artists, entrepreneurs and nature-lovers, created this line after extensive culinary exploration and experimentation. They discovered that while gourmet quality condiments are quite common, and many are quite delicious, very few are made with 100% organic ingredients. Sauces are created to pair with a variety of dishes and are available in Blackberry Maple, Indian Mango, Red Pepper and Cherry Chipotle. 49° Organics sauces can be found at fine gourmet retailers including Well Seasoned in Langley, Strong's Market in Vancouver, Whole Foods stores in the Lower Mainland, Okanagan Grocery and Cedar Creek Winery in Kelowna.
For more information visit them online: 49degreesorganics.com
OKANAGAN CHOCOLATE BARK
Creator of a locally made line of fruitcake, Nuttier than a Fruitcake, Moni Schiller has now created a chocolate bark to die for. Using the freshest quality ingredients and not content to use plain roasted almonds, Moni has incorporated her own candied almonds, which we believe makes all the difference in the taste of this bark. This is a great gift for the chocolate lover in your crowd, or as a treat for yourself. Varieties include: Okanagan cherries and white chocolate, marbled half white and half dark chocolate with Okanagan cherries, Okanagan cherries with dark chocolate and spiced almonds, Okanagan cherries with milk chocolate and candied almonds.
Okanagan Chocolate Bark can be purchased online for $10.00 for eight ounces and $18.00 for 16 ounces. Available online: fruitcake.ca
We’ve opened the next chapter in our story. We’re proud to announce the opening of our new location next to the historic train station at the corner of Ellis and Clement. Same great prices. Same great service. All new location. We’ll toast to that. New Location Now Open | 1175 Ellis Street, Kelowna | Next to the Historic Train Station (Ellis & Clement) | metroliquor.com
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FRUIT CALENDAR
A feast for the eyes! This brightly coloured wall calendar features fruit crate and canning labels from the early to mid-1900s. Labels from Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley, Prince Edward County, Ontario and British Columbia's Okanagan, Similkameen and Kootenay valleys are featured in this calendar. It also includes a 2013-planning calendar. It is printed on FSC-certified paper with 10% post-consumer waste and vegetable-based inks. Copies are available across B.C. and Canada at major book stores and online. In B.C. it’s widely available at most Save On Foods locations, the Book Warehouse in Burnaby and Mosaic Books in Kelowna...we picked up ours at The Bench in Penticton. Price: $17.95 CAD/US
A complete list of stores is available online at polestarcalendars.com.
PALM SCRUBBER
Help Us Support Our Local Food Bank Feed the Valley is an innovative community partnership aimed at tackling hunger in the Okanagan, Similkameen and Thompson valleys. All of the food collected and money raised in your community stays in your community.
A good vegetable brush is invaluable during the colder months when most of us are preparing root vegetables at home. The Chef’n Palm Brush™ slides right onto your finger, tucks into your palm, and cleans any vegetable you can get your hands on. These vegetable brushes come with soft rubber finger grips, providing you with the comfort to clean a whole bag of potatoes or carrots without even feeling it! Also, the sturdy nylon bristles on these vegetable brushes ensure that your vegetables are properly clean and ready to eat. Top rack dishwasher safe. Shown here in Peapod.
The Chef'n Palm Brush retails for around $7.99 and you can find a local retailer by calling the customer service line 1-888-632-6422.
You can make a food or monetary donation at any Valley First branch or online at www.feedthevalley.ca.
www.feedthevalley.ca
For more about Danica products visit: danicaimports.com
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KelownaChef Champions Regional Cuisine
c
hef Rod Butters of Kelowna’s renowned RauDZ Regional Table is adamant about creating and promoting a cuisine based on local produce and product. In fact, about 85% of his dishes are composed of regional fare, obtained from Valley producers. Support local, buy local is his motto. “The Okanagan really is the chef’s ultimate playground,” he says. It was an injured arm that got Rod Butters wielding a knife. Instead of heading off on a baseball scholarship in America, Rod's professional sports ambitions were cut short. He was forced to reflect on what appealed to him most in his life, to what he was drawn from a very young age. And that was cooking. Even at seven years old his favorite thing to do was to get up before anyone else and make a pancake breakfast for his family. Some career highlights include the Four Seasons Hotel group in Toronto and Vancouver, Scaramouche Restaurant, Toronto, Chateau Whistler Resort opening team and Pacific Palisades Hotel Vancouver. Rod then went on to open the world famous Wickaninnish Inn, Tofino as Chef de Cuisine in 1996. His innovative cuisine and high service standards quickly helped the Inn's Pointe Restaurant attain the internationally recognized Relais & Chateaux designation. After a year-long journey around the world in 2000, he returned home to B.C. to share his culinary experiences and open Fresco Restaurant & Lounge in Kelowna. As chef /proprietor, Rod has been instrumental in promoting the growth of culinary tourism in the Okanagan. His restaurant, carries an extensive line of rjb preserves, which Chef Butters produces by hand from local organic ingredients. In the line you will find, Blackberry Ketchup, Roasted Tomato Sauce and a delicious Terrace Mountain Morel Salt. The importance of Rod's commitment to establishing regional B.C. cuisine has earned him international respect. Long before it became trendy to serve regional food, Rod has always been committed to this effort. It’s because of this commitment and his talents as a chef at the top of his game that in 2007 his peers inducted Rod into the B.C. Restaurant Hall of Fame. In the words of food and arts critic Jurgen Gothe, "Butters is the consummate Canadian-born, Canadian-trained, Canadian chef, the kind that will eventually…create what we'll come to call Canadian cuisine." Rod is a member of the Canadian Culinary Foundation and has earned the WCC designation recognizing international culinary excellence from the World Association of Chefs Societies.
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
21
Tasty,
NUTRITIONAL
andEconomical
A Salute to Root Vegetables
photo by stephanie seaton
By Roslyne Buchanan
i
n gardens, as in life, sometimes you have to wait a little longer and dig deeper to get at the hidden gems. Root vegetables are the strong silent types developing out of sight all summer.
While each produce wave brings rewards throughout the season, it is root vegetables that’ll sustain you long after harvest. Technically, they are tuberous roots and taproots such as beets, carrots, parsnips, radishes, rutabagas and turnips. Root vegetables are different from potatoes and water chestnuts which are tubers of underground stems. They are also distinct from garlic, leeks, onions and shallots, the underground stems that are edible members of the lily family. For this homage, however, root vegetables refer to any plant with an edible portion under the soil. With their rough skin and bulbous shapes, root vegetables traditionally served as cost-effective peasant food nourishing the masses. Over time their charms won, if not for their intense flavours, then for their nutritional value. Generally low calorie, they have little to
a salute to root vegetables
no fat or cholesterol. These workhorses exist to provide sustenance to plants and consequently translate into healthy fare for us. The nutrients vary, with sweet potatoes, carrots, radishes and rutabagas noted for high ratios of vitamin A; celeriac, potatoes, jicama, parsnips, turnips and yuca for vitamin C; and sunchoke and parsnips for iron. Beets and greens are also packed with healthy assets. For these attributes many writers have likened root vegetables to Rodney Dangerfield for not getting the respect deserved!
Mr. Potato Head – first advertised toy on TV Consider the potato. Did you know that Mr. Potato Head was the first toy to be advertised on television directly to children? Inventor George Lerner adorned vegetables from his mother’s garden to make playful dolls for his sisters. He convinced a food company to include plastic parts as a premium in cereal boxes before introducing the concept to Hassenfeld Brothers toys (later Hasbro) who bought the rights. Officially, Mr. Potato Head was born May 1, 1952 when the kit was launched for 98 cents. It included hands, feet, ears, mouths, pairs of eyes, noses, hats, eyeglasses, a pipe, and felt pieces resembling facial hair while you provided your own potato. In
a salute to root vegetables
the first year over a million kits were sold. (See www.hasbro.com and Wikipedia for details.) With a name like Buchanan, I love potatoes and understand why this kitchen staple is the most grown vegetable in B.C. and worldwide. This tuber is a source of potassium, iron, thiamine, folic acid and vitamin C. Its diversity is well-known with the many varieties bestowing subtleties depending on preparation. In Whitewater Cooks with friends, this issue’s reviewed cookbook, recipes for roasted garlic, rosemary potato, artichoke & feta pizza or Sheri's salad Nicoise are offered. Root vegetables are versatile. Even when you consider the traditional method of cooking and mashing them alone or in combinations, the choices to enhance or highlight features by adding butter, garlic and other herbs and spices is endless. Roasting them in the oven intensifies the flavours and they can be seasoned and served or added to soups and casseroles. You can create healthier fries by cutting potatoes or yams into strips, coins or chunks, then adding spices and an olive oil drizzle before baking. Grating raw root vegetables such as carrots and beets for salads intensifies colour and taste. And of course, there are so many pickling and preserving options.
Root cellars return Long after snow blanketed the ground, I remember as a child being dispatched with a pail to my grandparents’ cellar to fetch potatoes for dinner. The cool and musty smell of soil would hint of the treasures below as you raised the cellar door. There in the dusty glow of a hanging light bulb, the wooden bins of sorted beets, potatoes and other root vegetables would await layered in rich dark loam. As the light swayed, the shelves would reveal tidy rows of pickles with the brilliant crimsons and oranges of the beets and carrots harkening to a summer’s day. No wonder there is a renaissance of root cellars! Modern methods have also developed to provide that summer banquet well into winter. Chefs have rediscovered many heritage techniques and augmented them. Chef Darin Patterson of Bogner’s in Penticton captures the peak of the season sous-vide—the French term for “under vacuum,” where food sealed in airtight bags is slowly cooked at low temperature to keep it juicier. He freezes the vacuum-sealed bags of savoury carrots and beets for future use, extending his goal to serve locally produced foods throughout the year. Environmental and health considerations such as the 100-mile diet have given way to the resurgence of urban gardens and buying local at farmers’ markets. Along with wine cellars, this renewed respect has resulted in plans for pantry and root cellar storage in new home and restaurant design and renovation. More than 50 types of vegetables are grown throughout B.C. on over 10,000 hectares of land with 90 percent of the field grown vegetables in the Fraser Valley. Overall, B.C. farmers earn over $73 million income from about 169 million kilograms of fresh and processed vegetables. Still, in North America, B.C. plays a small part in growing vegetables with California the dominant area given its advantage of a year round season. Root vegetables are an important part of that production. While many varieties are naturally wrinkled, in selecting them, look for firm and unmarked ones that are not shrivelled. It is best to store them unwashed because the soil coating offers a layer of protection. Buy a variety to benefit from distinct tastes and nutritional
CELEBRATING 20 VINTAGES Celebrating with a new look, yet carrying on our tradition of awardwinning organic wines. Thank you for helping us share our success. www.summerhill.bc.ca SUMMERHILL PYRAMID WINERY 4870 CHUTE LAKE ROAD, KELOWNA, BC 1-800-667-3538 INFO@SUMMERHILL.BC.CA
a salute to root vegetables
qualities. Choose from beets, carrots, celeriac, garlic, ginger, ginseng, horseradish, jicama, leeks, onions, parsnips, potatoes, radishes, rutabaga, salsify, sunchoke (Jerusalem artichokes), sweet potatoes, taro, turnips, yams and yuca.
Beetroots and Greens Beets are rock stars! Despite having one of the highest sugar contents, beets only have a calorie count of 50-75 per cup.The leafy green portion can be cooked like spinach or Swiss chard or used raw as salad greens. The root can be a pickle, salad, soup or side dish. Beets are rich in potassium, fibre, folate, iron, calcium, vitamin A, B and C, and phytochemicals helpful in binding cholesterol in the digestive tract. Oysters move over: In Roman times, beetroot was used as nature’s Viagra. Given its analysis reveals high amounts of boron that is linked to human sex hormone production, the Romans may have had something! As for enhancing the mood, beets contain betaine that complementary medicine suggests relaxes the mind, protects organs and treats depression. If your amorous adventures result in a hangover, the betacyanin has been shown to be an antioxidant that could help by cleansing your liver and converting alcohol to a less toxic form more easily excreted! In ancient times the root was used as treatment for constipation, fevers, toothaches and headaches and the leaves to bind wounds. While the accolades continue, perhaps these will inspire you to try out recipes from Whitewater Cooks with friends such as roasted beets, goat cheese & pumpkin seeds on spicy greens or Susi's jewelled salad, using radishes and sliced and grated beets.
Carrots Crisp, vibrant and sweet, carrots are broadly available and used routinely as a ready snack, as juice, in salads, soups, side dishes and desserts such as carrot cake. Chock full of vitamin A and beta carotene, carrots are actually a refined version of the weed Queen Anne’s lace.
photo by stephanie seaton
Yams While often used interchangeably for sweet potatoes, yams hail from China, not South America. With red-brown skin that contains a poison destroyed in cooking, if peeling yams raw, use some caution by wearing rubber gloves. Baked, boiled, mashed, sautĂŠed or fried, yams nicely complement spices such as curries and chillis. Whitewater Cooks with friends shares a lovely Chipotle yam and corn chowder or chickpea, quinoa & roasted yam salad. Find your favourites and get back to your roots for flavour, health and budget.
Gift aBOTTLE
HOW TO
y
ou have all heard of the “serving it right” course that the liquor regulators require servers of alcohol to take. I am thinking of developing a companion course called “gifting it right.” Throughout the year, but especially during the holidays, wine is a frequent hostess gift or a gift for friends and relatives who appreciate a bottle. Let’s run through some of the questions (and answers) I would include in this course. Q. You are a home winemaker. Should you use your own wines as gifts? A. No, and especially not if you make them in the local wine kit store. Some amateur winemakers are very good but the quality of home wines runs the gamut from great to embarrassing. There is a good chance that the wary recipient will just put the bottle aside, afraid to take a chance. Secondly, the recipient will think that you are a cheapskate. Thirdly, he may embarrass you. A friend put a bottle of my home wine aside for four or five years and then poured it blind at a dinner party, asking me to comment on it. It was drinkable but it sure was not great. Q. You don’t drink enough wine to know how to choose a gift bottle. You play it safe and give a bottle of the wine you see at most house parties. In recent years, that has been a bottle of [yellow tail] ® Shiraz. A. That is not going to impress the recipient who probably has had those wines dozens of times. Even though the [yellow tail] ® wines are consistently good, a gift should be novel. Ask the clerks in your local wine store for suggestions. Today, most wine store staff are remarkably knowledgeable. Q. How much should you spend on gift bottles? A. Never pay more for a bottle than your IQ! I assume your IQ is 100, give or take a little. If you are that smart, you will know that there are plenty of satisfactory wines priced at $20 to $25. And there certainly are good wines that cost less than that. If you need cases of gift wines (for example, you are a salesman and you are thanking your customers), your recipients would not be disappointed with Calona Artist Series Unoaked Chardonnay, great value at $13 a bottle.
By John Schreiner
Q. Should you expect the host or the hostess to serve the wine you give them when you arrive for dinner? A. No. If your hosts care about wine, they will already have chosen what they plan to serve with the food. But if you want to share that special bottle you brought back from the Okanagan, you could call the hosts ahead of time, tell them why the bottle is special and ask them to include it in the menu. Q. Should you give a well-aged bottle that has been in your cellar for more than 10 years? A. No. Unless you have excellent storage conditions, there is a good chance the wine is over the hill. Secondly, old red wines all throw sediment which will be shaken up in transport to the recipient’s house. If the wine is served right away, it will be cloudy. If it is allowed to rest a few days, the recipient still has the hassle of decanting it carefully. Q. Is Icewine a good gift? A. Yes and no. Recipients know that Icewine is quite special and will be impressed with your generosity. I would suggest giving 200 millilitre bottles from Tinhorn Creek or Pentâge Winery. The smaller bottles are more affordable and they contain enough wine for a foursome. But if the recipients are not likely to know when to drink Icewine, there is a good chance they will regift that bottle, rather than appreciate it. I suggest including a wedge of Cambozola cheese in the gift because it is the perfect pair with Icewine. Q. Should you give British Columbia wines or imported wines? A. British Columbia wines – because the quality is high, because most people now take great pride in our wine industry and because it is fashionable to eat and drink local. Q. Should you give wine to your letter carrier? A. No. They have enough to carry. Besides, you should only give wine to people who, to your knowledge, actually drink wine. As for the DHL courier who brings me samples and stands there with his tongue hanging out, yes, I can see giving him a bottle this season.
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
27
GOOD EATING for
Good Dining Well Benefits Society By Andrew Findlay
f
ood as activism is a wonderful concept.
Put a smile on someone's face with a hot bowl of homemade mushroom soup or a prosciutto panini, charge them a fair price and turn the profits from your kitchen toward a social cause that makes the community a better more equitable place. It's called social enterprise, business with a twist, and it was once an esoteric, fringe idea for people without the stomach for private entrepreneurship, but this convergence of capitalism and philanthropy that takes business beyond the profit motive into the realm of social activism is gaining popularity. And these days more and more socially and politicallyminded gourmands are realizing that food is an ideal way to harness dollars and direct funds toward a socially progressive project. In the world of such ventures, Vancouver's Potluck Cafe and Catering is a winner and now having a considerably positive impact on the lives of some of Canada's most disenfranchised citizens in Vancouver's downtown east side.
The Power of Potluck It started at the United We Can social enterprise bottling depot with an idea for “binners dinners.” Potluck Cafe and
28
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
Catering was born, and with its mouthwatering menu that includes beef pot roast with onion mushroom gravy, red curry tiger prawns, and Spanish chicken penne among many entrée options, has been an incredible success. Potluck's business has grown at between 10 and 20 percent annually and now has annual sales topping $15 million. But it's the social activism element that makes this venture truly unique; Potluck offers employment opportunities and experience to the socially marginalized people facing significant barriers to the workplace, such as poverty, mental illness and addiction. Its revenues are channeled into various activities including a daily meal program and a community kitchen program that teaches downtown east side residents cooking and nutrition basics. However, Potluck is underpinned by a simple philosophy that ensures it won't be a lightweight on the bottom line. Executive director Heather O'Hara has described it this way: “Social enterprise means business, not social service.” In other words, the more successful the cafe and catering business is, the more successful Potluck is with its social mission of giving jobs and training to people who might otherwise be on the streets with few opportunities for stability and independence.
Social Enterprise Cafes
Social enterprise is an increasingly popular model for two important reasons; first, non-profits and charities are tax-exempt and can operate business within this structure as long as they are related to the social purpose of the organization. Second, by applying business or market-based principles, these charities are often better able to meet their financial needs and social mandate. However, such quasi-business entities in Canada operate in a legal and organizational grey territory. That's why Stacey Corriveau, of the B.C. Centre for Social Enterprise, is pleased to see the province moving to bring clarity to social enterprise with the proposed Community Interest Corporation (CIC). “A separate legal structure for social enterprise could serve many purposes,” Corriveau says, “including the ability for the enterprise to raise capital by issuing shares, creating new opportunities for governments to stimulate social enterprise, specifically through incentives such as favourable tax treatment and exemptions, and investment tax credits, and offering clarity on the types of activities that are permissible.” Corriveau also says it would give additional profile for the social enterprise brand, a means for the public to more readily recognize multiple bottom line ventures. In the meantime, while governments grapple with how to handle this unusual organizational animal, social enterprise continues to proliferate in B.C.
Have to H.A.V.E. The H.A.V.E. Cafe is another social enterprise in the downtown east side with a foodie focus. H.A.V.E.—which stands for Hope Action Values Ethics— provides culinary training and Food Safe Certification to people with social disadvantages, and revenues from the cafe and catering support training programs and the operation of a transition house upstairs from this Powell Street Cafe.
Eating for the Arts Last summer, the W2 Media Cafe opened in the old Woodwards building on West Hastings, a monumental urban rejuvenation and gentrification project also in the downtown east side. The cafe, staffed and run by artists, operates on a dollar-per-year lease with the city and occupies a location across the open inner courtyard from Nesters Market that was built by
the developer as social amenity space; meaning, in exchange for acquiring a certain zoning, the developer built and donated this space for use by a non-profit. Manager Irwin Oostindie calls the cafe more than just a place to eat, but rather a cafe with a civic and social function in the European sense. The menu is simple—salads, soups, sandwiches. Revenue from food sales supports the operation of a 10,000 square foot community media centre spread among two floors above the cafe that acts as an incubator for art and digital media education. In Christina Lake, the impressive LEED-certified Christina Living Arts Centre, built with pine beetle-killed timber, opened in August, 2010 and operates a small cafe that supports artist education, studio and gallery space.
Noshing Helps the Neighbourhood Social enterprise is also at the forefront of revitalizing a popular Victoria neighborhood. Fernwood has always possessed a unique charm, with the Fernwood Theatre and mélange of small shops and eateries. It has gone through its share of ups and downs, at times verged on dereliction. Today, it's on the upswing and the non-profit Fernwood Neighborhood Resource Group (FNRG) is dedicated to the continued revitalization of this classic Victoria enclave on numerous fronts. FNRG is helping to make available affordable childcare and housing, as well as publishing a community newspaper. To help fund its activities, FNRG operates the Cornerstone Cafe in a restored heritage building on the corner of Fernwood and Gladstone. The café serves coffee roasted locally by Discovery Coffee as well as paninis, soups, salads, muffins and a delicious banana coconut chocolate chip bread. Through its recycling and composting efforts, Cornerstone produces nearly zero waste from its operations. Without thinking, the very act of eating at home or out on the town is a social and political gesture. Menu choices support a way of doing business with far-reaching effects from the companies that manufacture chemical pesticides to the farmers that grow and raise food— organic, sustainable, shade-grown—ethical. Now, social enterprise is adding a new dimension to food and in B.C., already considered a leader in this field, the marriage of food and activism is a model that appears set for continued growth. photos by Jaime Kowal.
Winter Entertaining AT HOME Easy, Creative and Good Cheer By Dona Sturmanis
d
uring the winter months, people are less inclined to leave home and go out for entertainment. Throw in the fact that this can be expensive, entertaining at home during the cold season makes great sense. It’s also an excellent way to bond with friends and family. One of my favourite at-home winter fetes is a collaborative cooks’ dinner party. What we’ve done is chosen a cuisine theme (i.e. Indian) and designated the appropriate expert foodie to set the menu and shopping list. Then when guests arrive, our foodie directs them how to prepare a certain course or dish. Cooking together like this is a great way to mingle and keep engaged.
winter entertaining Since food and beverages are a favourite way of bringing people together, there are many variations on this idea you can try for your home entertaining. You could have regular social nights with basic potluck, each person bringing a dish, or something more challenging, with each guest responsible for a course and the wine that pairs with it. You could rotate monthly hosting duties with friends or family members. Each time, someone prepares and serves a dinner of their choice, emphasizing the cuisine they love. I know some of my favourite dinner evenings have been whipping up a few courses of true southern food (think peanut soup, chicken with green beans and lots of cheese, spinach salad with pecans, jambalaya) or Mexican (enchiladas with mole sauce, tamales steamed in the husk, chillis rellenos). Why not do a summer-style grill in the winter? Steaks, kebabs, corn...just keep the grill outside and not in a garage, where it can be dangerous. You can also bond with your guests over fondue, pizza or a traditional Sunday pot roast. These occasions don’t always have to be based around dinner. Why not cocktails and canapes, wine and cheese, spirits and chocolate. It could even be a coffee-tasting party, where everyone brings a different gourmet variety—whole bean of course, to be ground and sampled. Throw in the appropriate exotic biscotti or homemade cupcakes and you’re set. Why not a brunch party at Sunday noon? Pancakes, ham, hash browns, a fruit salad, smoothies, omelette-in-a-bag. Guests pick out their ingredients to add to eggs...which are put in a Ziplock bag, shaken up and boiled to perfection. Check it out on the Internet. And then maybe the game is on TV after.... A note about serving alcohol at home festivities. Offer non-alcoholic drinks as well as wine and spirits, limit the servings, keep an eye out for intoxication, and make sure your guests get safely home. Ensure there is a designated driver, a cab or a spare bed at your house.
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Entertaining Activities It’s always nice to have something extra to do on such occasions besides just eat and talk, although you do not want to force people to participate. One dreadful Christmas party I attended a few years ago was just that. Beautiful home, great guests and potential, but we were forced into a sing-a-long with a guitarist, followed by carols, complete with lyric sheets. The karaoke section of the evening, which I thought would be participatory, was dominated by the performance of the hostess (and she wasn’t that talented). Try movie theme nights or sports events complete with popcorn and snacks. Why not a games night—offer Monopoly, cards, poker, Scrabble or charades with a trunk full of clothes and accessories. Perhaps the ladies can bring outfits, shoes or jewelry they don’t wear anymore and exchange them for something more to their taste. The possibilities are endless. A simple walk in the snow or an invitation to relax in your hot tub is also a good idea. It brings people together, and helps them to appreciate the festive fare even more.
A Welcoming Environment ’Tis the season for festive decor, which is a given. Besides your holiday centrepieces, wreaths and ornaments, add some warm, inviting and ornamental lighting, lit candles (in safe places), fresh flowers and foliage. Light up your fireplaces, be they wood-burning or gas. Add some music, but definitely unobtrusive and in the background so it doesn’t take over conversation. One more tip that may be obvious, but I’ve noticed isn’t practiced always at these gatherings. Make the most of your hosting abilities and introduce people to each other with a few interesting tidbits about who they are. This small courtesy is a
winter entertaining true icebreaker that really helps people to chat and get to know each other.
A Note to Guests It’s always a delight to your host if you bring a small gift besides alcohol to express your appreciation for the invitation. Bring slippers as you will be removing your shoes at the front door. Afterwards, make a phone call, send a note or even an e-mail to say thanks for the enjoyable evening. You’ll certainly see an increase in invitations in the future!
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Scratching the Earth on the Golden Mile and Black Sage Benches
andra Oldfield is CEO, winemaker, and co-founder of Tinhorn Creek Winery, which has vineyards on both the Black Sage Bench and the Golden Mile Bench. Both are important sub-regions in the Okanagan, and although they are within sight of each other, they are very different. Sandra is one of the vintners currently discussing an application to define the Golden Mile Bench as an officially recognized sub-geographical indication for BC VQA wine labeling. She was reluctant to be interviewed. She is aware of the political issues involved with drawing a line on a map, and stressed to me that she is not an official spokesperson for the group.
Ezra: My angle in writing this is to bring awareness to it; to make sure that this ends up being good for our industry long term. If we're labeling terroir, we have to be delivering terroir, and not just empty marketing BS. Sandra: We’re defining our bench because of the uniqueness of the geography, but in the end you can’t escape that this is about marketing. I mean, French appellations are about marketing. It's about making your land more important than your neighbor's, or really just unique from it. The tricky part is where you draw the line. With the Golden Mile, where we draw the line is solely based on science. The primary dictator is soil, and the second is elevation. Alluvial soil spreads right out across the valley floor. The crumbling of Mount Kobau lays out fans of primary material down the various creeks, and they formed these shelves - this elevated bench. Ezra: What’s the soil like? Sandra: The soil is very rocky with a gravelly loam. It is on the east facing slope of Mount Kobau so it receives the early morning light, but is in shadow hours before Black Sage on the other side of the valley. Tinhorn’s plantings on the Golden Mile Bench are almost all white grapes. We’ve got Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Muscat, and Chardonnay planted here, as well as small plantings of Syrah and Pinot Noir. Ezra: What about Black Sage? Sandra: This is where more and more of our reds are planted. Black Sage Bench is at a lower elevation, and the aspect is south west. It gets more extreme heat in the summer, and cold in the
By Ezra Cipes
winter. It’s pretty much pure beach sand, and growing grapes there is almost hydroponic farming. My winery is on the Golden Mile, so I won’t be the one to drive Black Sage as an appellation, but that is where all my Merlot and Cab Franc are. Black Sage is harder to define and draw a line around. How big is it? Does it go all the way from Inkameep Vineyards to Osoyoos, or is there some historical precedent for what is defined as the Black Sage Bench? Ezra: When you first planted Black Sage, how did you choose what to plant? Sandra: It was based on the wines that we wanted to sell. We had everything planted there. We are now slowly replanting, and varieties are finding their home. The Merlot we had on the Golden Mile was always the weakest Merlot, every vintage. We are little by little replanting the Golden Mile to aromatic whites, and reds are going to Black Sage. Once our canopy was established on Black Sage, and the vines were established, the flavours became much more developed and deep. We generally get lower acids on that side, so we often acidify. Golden Mile has higher acid, good fast flavour development, but not as much heat. Having Gris grown on both sides balances out the wine. I don't have to do anything! One side has the sugars, the other has the acid. Ezra: You have Syrah in both vineyards. What about that? Sandra: Syrah is better on Black Sage from a ripeness perspective. It's more meaty/bacony on Black Sage, more white
dirt on dirt
pepper on Golden Mile. Frost is a major consideration on Black Sage, though, so we’re going to experiment with planting later ripening but frost sensitive varieties like Malbec on the Golden Mile side. Bill Eggert from Fairview somehow manages to make good wine from late ripening reds on Golden Mile. Ezra: What has it been like bringing all the Golden Mile vintners together to make this application? I understand that you're not a spokesperson for the group, but are you personally in favour of adopting specific production practices for the sub-region? Sandra: We're not talking about any restrictions on varieties, but migration of varieties is inevitable over time. We're not talking about any production limits at the out-set, like max tons per acre, but it may be discussed in the future. I would not advocate stylistic restrictions in regards to production practices. Ezra: What about ingredients? Sandra: Should processed ingredients be allowed? We haven’t talked about it. I wouldn’t rule anything out at this point. If we had a sub-appellation, I would really like to have a third party accounting for where the grapes grown here are going, to make sure labeling is legit and 100% from the sub-region. A lot of
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wineries have grapes grown here, and they end up all over. If we get to use Golden Mile on the label, the wine’s got to be 100% from Golden Mile. Ultimately, just like every growing region, the two benches have their own advantages and challenges. Terroir is complex, and cannot be simplified by comparing soil types or sunlight hours. This is just scratching the surface. The real trick will be for the vintners on both benches to come to terms with the challenges of their farms, and to figure out how to make best use of the advantages. The Black Sage Bench has the heat, but because of the coarse, deep sand, and all the human intervention needed to grow here, can the wines really be said to have terroir? The soil here must be considered in more detail, as it is a complex subject, and Black Sage has many good qualities aside from the soil. Certainly many fine wines have been grown on Black Sage. The Golden Mile is blessed with a finer textured but stony soil. It is likely that the Golden Mile Bench will be the first sub-region to apply for a sub-geographical indication, and if it is successful, it will then be up to the vintners to make good on the promise of terroir, and to develop the special reputation that the fulfillment of this promise will entitle them to have.
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Come and take a look at what’s new at Bridges… • The private park landscaping is now complete. • 8 new houses are under construction. • A very good selection of lots are still available. • Our Tommie winning show homes are open daily from noon - 5:00pm. Located in the Heart of Old Glenmore within walking distance to the lake and cultural district.
1358 Glenview Avenue, Kelowna, BC
250.763.7209
www.b r i d g e s l i v i n g . c o m
savour spots ViCTORiA
Favourite BC Nosh Spots
HERNANDE'Z COCINA
By Rand Zacharias
B.C.’s capitol city boasts several eateries of excellence but perhaps some of the most interesting are the offerings of the hard working staff at Hernande'z Cocina in downtown Victoria.
chilis are the basics of Mayan cuisine, then the Spaniards introduced beef, pork and chicken, so the Cocina (pronounced Co-seen-a) team does serve these European meat introductions.
The Hernande'z husband and wife team, Salvadorian Jerson and Kelowna-born Tamara, serve exquisite cuisine. It is Honduran/Salvadoran fare predating current national Central American boundaries. They call it Mayan cuisine. Corn (maize), squash, black beans and
With a team that holds to values of simplicity and integrity, this is not a restaurant that has to advertise.
In corporate Victoria, Hernande'z is a favourite for the working folks at lunch. Burritos are a favourite. Express and slow menus are available. Ingredients are fresh; people appreciate Hernande'z homemade tortillas.
735 Yates Street hernandezcochina.com 250-884-5313
Experience Thompson / Okanagan’s Best Restaurants
$15, $25, $35 MENU OPTIONS
sip, savour & save
01.18.12 — 02.05.12
VISIT WWW.BCRFA.COM FOR INFO
GOURMET
savour spots VAnCOuVER
nELSOn
FINCH'S TEA & COFFEE HOUSE
THE ALL SEASONS CAFÉ
Finch’s Tea & Coffee House is the place to be early. The line-ups may be long after 11:45 a.m., but the soups, salads and sandwiches, that do take some time to prepare, are well worth visiting for at this spotlight eatery at Pender and Homer in Vancouver. Patrons lean toward the sweet potato apple soup, the veggie baguette, prosciutto with lettuce and tomato or a pear avocado walnut salad. Remember some cash as credit cards aren’t always welcome. 353 Pender Street finchteahouse.com 604-899-4040
The All Seasons Café opened its doors in 1995 and in a colourful town; they’ve carved out a wonderful little niche of culinary appreciation. Chef Byron Bingeman has a support wait staff of foodies who like to create “a warm and welcoming dinner party” for arriving customers. The menu boasts the use of local produce as well as Oceanwise seafood. So for a succulent autumn soup, braised lamb shank, B.C. halibut, Angus striploin or a crispy-skin duck breast—all entrees under $30—the All Seasons Café is a definite stopping point for the travelling food aficionado. 620 Herridge Lane allseasonscafe.com 250-352-0101
THOMAS ALAN BUDD FOUNDATION presents
Saturday, February 4, 2012 at 6:00 pm, Delta Grand Okanagan
A Brilliantly Playful Evening of Food, Wine and Dance Featuring Chef Rod Butters and Liquid Chef Gerry Jobe - RauDZ Regional Table • Chef Bernard Casavant - Manteo Resort Chef Mark Filatow - Waterfront Restaurant • Chef Stuart Klassen - Delta Grand Okanagan • Chef Roger Sleiman - Old Vines Restaurant, Quails’ Gate Winery Chef Sandrine Raffault-Martin - Sandrine French Pastry & Chocolate Aces Okanagan, La Stella, Le Vieux Pin, Noble Ridge & Quails’ Gate For tickets contact balletkelowna.ca or Debbie MacMillan at 250.764.4803, events@balletkelowna.ca $250 with a generous tax receipt
savour spots
Perfectly placed to make fine wine and good friends.
R E S TAU R A N T
NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN R E S TAU R A N T
tinhorn.com
savour its
Must Have Kitchen Tools
w
hen creating in the kitchen, the best gadgets to reach some sort of potential may well be inspired from cooking shows. Give us Chopped and Iron Chef and let us watch and learn. Within 20 minutes to an hour, accompanied by the challenge of unique ingredients, we witness the creation of meals with possibility, or at the very least, attempts at originality.
For those who would rather depend on technology and enjoy each new gizmo out there? There are a few new offerings from the minds of the multitudes with manufacturing imaginations. This year reveals a return to wood or cork cutting boards, bowls, utensils and plates, but also new oil-free air fryers, lightweight and scratch-resistant skillets and soup-making blenders with heating elements in the mix.
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By Rand Zacharias
As we enter the season of eating and greeting, we should start with the possibility of fewer calories in the continued slide to fried sides and entrees. The Philips Airfryer uses either no oil or simply tablespoons of the high caloric necessary evil in achieving those sweet or savoury fried goods. Reviews for this new product rave about the simplicity of set-up, attractive appearance and ease of use. The Airfryer is quite substantial in size and will take up a considerable amount of counter space; however, the results of superheating air instead of large amounts of oil will be very noticeable when chomping into your chips, samosas, battered fish, meats or sweetened treats. The safety factor should not be overlooked either. The timer shuts off the heat process eliminating fire or burn hazards.
savour its
The new Cuisinart Soup Maker is receiving perfect scores from reviewers. The Soup Maker doesn’t require you to peel your veggies; simply chop, drop in the blender and spice to taste. Thirty minutes later, you can have a chunky, semichunky or pureed soup that is steaming hot and ready to eat. The 1000 watt element, pulse blades that chop your ingredients to desired size, half gallon capacity and non-stick surfaces make this attractive gadget a real find. Priced just over $200, the Soup Maker arrives with a recipe book, but the added benefits of creating creams and sauces give this new appliance a host of possible applications for use in a busy kitchen, freeing up soup pots and elements on your stovetop. Berghoff ceramic non-stick cookware and Starfrit lightweight cast iron skillets may be just what the finely-boned, but aggressive cook may require. Starfrit’s skillets weigh half as much as traditional cast iron skillets with “stay cool” stainless steel handles. Three skillets ranging from nine and a half to twelve inches can be purchased for $180. Berghoff ceramic cookware is six times stronger than previous scratch-resistant coatings. Berghoff has a lifetime warranty at a price between $200 for a five-piece set and $550 for 10-piece set. As new appliances create efficiency, other simpler returns like wooden utensils are practical. Calphalon offers beautiful oil finished spatulas and spoons that are easy to hold and clean. Wood also eliminates the scratch factor that metal spoons and spatulas can bring to the rambunctious chef’s flipping, scraping and stirring activities. We’re seeing safer food graters, voice-activated coffee makers, steam-assisted countertop ovens, quick pasta makers and much more joining in the rank and file of new gadgets. You can find out more about the kitchen-changing offerings we haven’t discussed by visiting foodnetworkstore.com or googling “new kitchen gadgets.”
Never miss an issue of Savour... Now available on your iPad. Go to savourmag.com to subscribe to current issue and back issues.
savour its
ESSENTIAL KITCHEN TOOLS What the Chefs Use Chef Neil Schroeter, Okanagan Street Food, Kelowna
Forced to choose just one tool, Chef Schroeter finds his immersion blender his essential tool. It is especially handy for a multitude of tasks. Chef Schroeter uses it for pureeing soups, fruit coulis in the pot, mashed potatoes, saving a broken sauce and making smoothies.
Jas Dosanj, Poppadoms, Kelowna Jas cannot live without her trusty spice grinder. She uses it in making garam masala, an essential spice in Indian cooking. Jas explains that in Indian cooking your curry is only as good as your spices, so it's key for every Indian meal. Poppadom's is known for their fresh roasted spice blends, which you can purchase directly from the restaurant. A coffee grinder used only for Indian spices works great.
Chef Steve Marston With a B&B and demonstration kitchen, Kelowna Chef Marston also finds the immersion blender a must have in his cooking. To him it provides the best features of a mixer, blender and food processor in one simple device. It allows him to tackle a variety of food preparation tasks, from simple blending to speedy whisking and even coarse chopping. Chef Marston suggests when choosing an immersion blender, select a brand that offers at least 250 watts of power, a stainless steel shaft and comes with additional attachments.
Vikram and Meeru Vj, Vj's Restaurant, Vancouver Meeru Vj and her family typically enjoy vegetarian meals five out of seven nights of the week and finds that the pressure cooker is an essential tool for preparing a large volume of chickpeas or beans in less than half an hour. The newer pressure cookers are totally safe and not as loud. When asked about his most valued kitchen tool, Vikram says it is his chef's knife. Vikram will cook dinner at home at least every Sunday night for his family. Even at home, he cooks like a professional chef and doesn't talk while he's cooking. He will chop his onions and garlic as if he's on some professional cooking show, even at home.
book review
By Roslyne Buchanan
Whitewater Cooks with friends
Book title: Author: Shelley Adams Published by: Alicon Holdings Ltd., Nelson, B.C. Softcover 160 pp, ISBN 978-0-9811424-1-8
Available at book stores across Canada, chapters.indigos.ca and amazon.ca
$34.95
The third cookbook by Shelley Adams, Whitewater Cooks with friends, reads like a loving scrapbook of fond memories and adventures captured in a collaboration of treasured recipes. Shelley was coaxed to develop the first cookbook when she and husband Mike owned the Kootenays Whitewater Ski Resort, where she was creative director and chef for the Fresh Tracks Café. Something special transpired when the ski hill restaurant gained as much notoriety as the powder snow! Building on her training and love for food while cooking for Vancouver’s movie industry, her hearty and wholesome recipes were a huge hit. Hungry for more, enthusiasts convinced her to develop Whitewater Cooks at Home and Shelley thought her cookbook career was complete. The idea to combine time-tested recipes from Nelson friends and those from afar as well as her personal collection grew from a dinner when she was reminded by her daughter Ali and friend Margie of her mantra that “great recipes are meant to be shared.” Friend and catering partner Marianne Abraham eagerly offered to help and Shelley’s team, including photographer Dave Gluns and designer Minn Benedict, were anxious to create another eye-popping edition. Set up intuitively by courses, it includes tips that cross-reference recipes in other sections and on what can be prepared ahead. For those less everyday ingredients, sources are noted for Nelson and where practical, chain groceries. Adding another element to her previous cookbooks, Shelley Adams’ Whitewater Cooks with friends shares fun and casual recipes ideal for a potluck or picnic or to prepare for hassle-free entertaining. See recipes starting on page 45.
in the pursuit of HARMONY the taste of EXCELLENCE Winner of Organic and International Awards
250.768.9700 3361.Glencoe Rd. West Kelowna BC V4T 1M1 kalalawines.ca
Seasonal COCKTAILS FRUIT WINE MARTINI
2 oz. Sleeping Giant Strawberry/Rhubarb fruit wine 1 oz. vodka
Pour into a cocktail shaker with ice; shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Drop in a frozen strawberry.
SUMMERLAND MARTINI
2 oz. Sleeping Giant Blackberry fruit wine 1 oz. Thornhaven Diosa (late harvest Chardonnay)
Pour into a sleeve with ice and stir; strain into a chilled martini glass. Drop in a frozen blackberry.
FRUIT WINE SANGRIA
4 oz. Sleeping Giant Apple Pie fortified fruit wine 1 oz. white rum 8 oz. pomegranate juice Top with soda.
Pour into a one litre jug with two scoops of ice. Drop in four slices of apple. Serves four. Submitted by: The Vanilla Pod Restaurant 9917 Main Street Summerland,B.C. 250.494.8222
BIG APPLE COBBLER 1½ oz. Okanagan Spirits McLoughlin & Steele Whisky ½ oz. Okanagan Spirits Canados (apple brandy) 1½ oz. fresh apple juice
Mix all the ingredients together in a cocktail mixer. Shake well. Serve in a rocks glass with plenty of ice. magazine •magazine WINTER •2011/12 FALL 2011 43
recipes
warming
winter
CARAMELIZED
Pear&Beet TART
Chevre Mousse & Candy Floss By Chef Rod Butters, owner of RauDZ Regional Table
Serves 4-6
TART 1 cup granulated sugar ¼ cup water 4-6 tsp chilled butter, cut into small cubes 1-2 large pears *D’anjou or Bosc, cored and sliced thin 3 large beets *Red, Gold or Striped, pre-boiled till tender. Peeled & sliced thin 1 tsp fresh rosemary, chopped Puff pastry, cut into 5” rounds or 1 large round size of the large pan
In a small pot dissolve sugar with water. On high heat caramelize sugar until golden brown. Immediately pour hot caramel into tart pans ensuring even distribution amongst pans. Preheat oven to 400°F Put butter cubes into caramel. Sprinkle rosemary into each pan. Lay pear & beet slices into pan in a fan shape alternating each slice ie. pear, beet, pear, beet. Place puff pastry on top of each. Bake at 400°F on bottom rack of oven for approx 35 min or until pastry is done. * A larger pan will take longer to bake. Remove from oven and let cool five minutes. Turn upside down onto plates and remove pan.
CHEVRE MOUSSE 1/2 cup Okanagan Chevre 1 lemon, zest and juice from 1 orange, zest and juice from 2 tbsp icing sugar 1 tsp vanilla 2 egg whites 1 tbsp granulated sugar 150 ml whipping cream, whipped Toasted walnuts to garnish
In a mixing bowl mix chevre, lemon zest & juice, orange zest & juice, icing sugar and vanilla. In a separate bowl, beat egg whites with sugar to make a stiff meringue. Fold meringue into chevre mixture. Whip cream until it has soft peaks and fold into rest of mixture. Keep refrigerated. *This can be made in advance. Scoop chevre mousse onto the warm tarts and garnish with toasted walnuts if desired. Enjoy. magazine • WINTER 2011/12
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recipes
Chipotle
Yam Corn &CHOWDER
By Whitewater Cooks and friends
Serves 6 5 medium yams, peeled and cubed 12 cups vegetable stock 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 tbsp canned chipotle peppers, finely chopped 1/2 cup red pepper, finely chopped 1 cup frozen corn kernels, thawed 1 tsp adobo sauce (sauce chipotles are canned in) 1 lime, juice and zest of salt to taste
Place cubed yams in a large stockpot and cover with eight cups of vegetable stock. Boil for 30 minutes or until yams are completely tender. Heat oil in sauce pan, sauté onion, garlic, chipotle and red peppers until tender, and set aside. Remove 1 cup of cooked yams from the stockpot and set aside. Puree yams and cooking water in the stockpot with hand-held mixing wand, or food processor, until smooth. Add remaining four cups of stock to the pureed yams in the stockpot. Add corn, adobo sauce and sautéed onion mixture. Add juice and zest of lime. Return reserved cup of cooked yams back into the stockpot. Heat until just boiling, adjust salt and serve. Because we rarely use a whole can of chipotle peppers in one recipe, we purée the leftover chipotles and freeze them in a small container. Then, when you need a spoonful for another recipe, just dig it right out of the container in its frozen state!
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magazine • WINTER 2011/12
Marianne’s father taught her about the magical restorative powers of a good soup. His motto was to avoid crisis, serve soup. Many a frozen skier or hungry child has been revived back to good humour with this delicious and nurturing chowder. No trace of dairy either, despite its creaminess.
recipes Makes two 12 inch round pizzas 1 lb unpeeled red potatoes (3-4 medium size) very thinly sliced 2 tbsp fresh rosemary, chopped 1 tsp sea salt 1/2 tsp pepper 1/4 cup olive oil 1/2 lemon, juice of 4 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp instant dry yeast 1/4 tsp sugar 3/4 cup water, lukewarm 1 3/4 cups flour 1/2 tsp salt 2 tbsp olive oil (for spreading on dough) 2 whole garlic bulbs, roasted and mashed 1 1/2 cups marinated artichoke hearts, quartered 1 tsp chili flakes 1 cup feta cheese, crumbled 1 1/2 cups mozzarella, grated
Preheat oven to 350°F. Toss potato slices, rosemary, salt, pepper, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic together in large bowl until potato slices are evenly coated. Spread onto two parchment lined baking sheets, making sure potato slices are in a single layer. Roast for 20-25 minutes until potato slices are tender and golden and then let cool.
Roasted Garlic, Rosemary Potato, Artichoke and Feta
Pizza
By Whitewater Cooks and friends
There are no tomatoes in sight on this somewhat unusual pizza and you will be pleasantly surprised at this delicious flavour combination.
Mix yeast, sugar and water together in a measuring cup. Stir and let sit for 8 minutes. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Pour yeast mixture over flour and, using your hands or a wooden spoon, combine until a ragged dough is formed. Remove from bowl and work into a loose ball on a lightly floured work surface. Knead well for 2 minutes, turning dough often. Divide into two equal pieces and shape each one into a 12 inch round. Place on pizza pan, stone or parchment lined baking sheet. Spread 1 tbsp. of olive oil evenly on to each round. Preheat oven heat to 500°F. Spread mashed roasted garlic onto pizza dough, then top with roasted potato slices. Arrange artichoke hearts on top of potato slices and sprinkle with chili flakes. Sprinkle with feta cheese and finish with mozzarella. Bake for 15-20 minutes, in the top third of the oven, or until cheese is bubbling and pizza bottom is golden brown. magazine • WINTER 2011/12
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recipes Serves 8-10
Susi's
SALAd
JEWELED
Salad
By Whitewater Cooks and friends
1 head green or red lettuce, washed, spun dry and torn 3-4 large leaves of purple kale, washed, ribs removed, and finely chopped 1-2 cups arugula or mizuna when available 1/4 -1/2 red onion, finely sliced 1 yellow or red or purple pepper, finely sliced 1 medium to large red or striped beet, raw, grated and sliced (for garnish) 1 medium golden beet, raw, grated 3 mini cucumbers, finely sliced 6-10 radishes, (if available use purple, white, magenta etc.) finely sliced 1 pomegranate, seeds only* 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped 1/2 - 1 tsp sumac** 1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted **a middle eastern spice with a very lemony flavour, available at Culinary Conspiracy.
dRESSiNg 1/3 cup olive oil 1 lemon, juice of 3 tsp Braggs (gluten-free soy sauce) 3 tsp honey 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped 1/2 tsp sumac freshly ground pepper to taste
Find a big beautiful platter with a little depth, something that makes your heart sing; turquoise always looks amazing with this salad! This is how our dear friend Susi describes one of her favourite recipes...and as DH Lawrence said, the human soul needs actual beauty more than food. 48
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
Make a bed of the torn lettuce leaves. Scatter it with the finely chopped kale and the arugula or mizuna leaves. Sprinkle with the red onion. Layer cucumbers, radishes, pepper slices, chopped fresh mint and the sliced almonds. Place the grated beets in small piles, alternating the two colours around the edge of the salad. Sprinkle the middle of the salad with 1/2 tsp. of the sumac spice. Combine all dressing ingredients and mix well. Drizzle the dressing over the composed salad and toss gently just before serving. *Pomegranate seeds really make this the jeweled salad, but using other fruit is equally stunning and delicious. If pomegranates are not available, you can use 1 cup seedless watermelon, diced and chilled, or 1 cup fresh red currants, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, sliced fresh figs, or a combination of all of the above. Be creative!
recipes
Candied Salmon
RISOTTO
Fritters
By Okanagan Street Food Makes 50+
RiSOTTO BASE
In a pot, bring your stock to a boil, remove from heat and keep warm. Preheat a heavy Dutch oven over medium low heat. Sweat the onion with oil until soft and cooked through, no color. Add rice to pot and stir to coat with oil. Increase heat to medium and add wine, salt and pepper, cook two minutes, add stock, ginger and hot and sour paste. Bring to boil, reduce heat to simmer, cook uncovered until rice absorbs all liquid, stirring often. Add cream, cilantro and cheese; stir well. Spray two 9” x 15” baking pans lightly with cooking spray. Spread rice mixture evenly in pans, cool completely on the counter, cover with plastic wrap and chill overnight. Note: store-bought candied salmon can be used in this recipe. The next day, prepare the fritters. Gently, using a soft spatula, loosen the edges of the risotto and invert pan onto a cutting board, cut into squares 2 cm x 2 cm (or any size you want). Combine the flour, salt and pepper together and toss the rice squares in the mixture, shake off excess. Combine the eggs and water, then coat the fritters in the mixture, shake off any excess. Combine the panko crumbs and parsley and coat the fritters in this mixture, shake off excess. Preheat fryer to 350°F Fry fritters 5-7 minutes or until an instant read thermometer reads 165°F. Serve with spicy mayonnaise. Fritters will store covered in the fridge 4 days or 1 month in the freezer.
4 cups Carnaroli rice (or another short grain Italian rice like Arborio) 1/2 cup fine diced onion 3 tbsp olive oil pinch kosher salt pinch fresh black pepper 1/2 cup dry white wine 2 litres stock (vegetable, chicken etc) 1 cup whipping cream 1 cup fresh parmesan, grated 3/4 cup hot smoked salmon or candied salmon 1 small bunch cilantro washed and chopped 3 tbsp hot and sour soup paste (tom yum kung available in the Asian section of your supermarket) 3 tbsp chopped pickled ginger
BREAdiNg iNgREdiENTS 2 1/2 cups flour 2 tsp kosher salt Pinch black pepper 8 large eggs 1/2 cup water 2 1/2 cups panko (Japanese style bread crumbs) 1/4 cup chopped parsley or cilantro magazine • WINTER 2011/12
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recipes
White Chili
By Tari Di Bello of Di Bello Wines
2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo 1 cup water 2 lbs fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed well 3 tbsp vegetable oil 2 large onions (white) chopped 4 tbsp minced garlic 2 tbsp ground cumin 4 lbs total ground chicken thigh, ground pork, or ground turkey proportioned to your liking 2 cups chicken stock 1 Turkish bay leaf or 1/2 California bay leaf 1 1/2 tsp dried oregano, crumbled 2 tsp salt, or to taste 1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped 2 (4-ounce) cans mild green chiles, drained and chopped (in Canada they come diced in the can) 1 tbsp cornmeal 1(19-ounce) can white beans, rinsed and drained 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Puree canned chipotle chiles (only two of them or less depending how much heat you want) with one cup water in a blender and transfer to a bowl. Wash and husk then blanch fresh tomatillos in a large saucepan of boiling water for five minutes; drain. Puree them in a blender and transfer to a bowl. Set both these aside Heat oil in an eight to 10 quart heavy pot over moderate heat. Add onions and two tablespoons garlic and cook, stirring, until onions are softened, about 10 minutes. Add cumin and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add chicken, pork and/or turkey; cook, stirring and breaking up lumps, until no longer pink, about eight minutes. Add chipotle puree, tomatillo puree, stock, bay leaf, oregano, and salt and simmer, uncovered, adding more water or stock if necessary to keep meat barely covered, for one hour. Add bell pepper, green chiles, and cornmeal and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Stir in white beans, remaining two tablespoons garlic, and salt to taste and simmer until beans are heated through, three to five minutes. Discard bay leaf and stir in cilantro. Garnish chili with cilantro and serve with sour cream. Delicious and not Canadian-ified. Save-On foods finally has canned chipotles!
SUggESTEd WiNE PAiRiNg: DiBello Wines Viognier
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magazine • WINTER 2011/12
EXPLORE BC VQA WINES
Q: What is a BC VQA wine store you say? A: When we're asked, "What does VQA stand for?" the answer is always the same: Vintners Quality Alliance. It describes wine made from 100% BC grapes and tasted by a panel to ensure quality. And it's the wine you'll find at BC VQA wine stores. Hundreds of BC labels with some of the most acclaimed and award-winning wines in the world behind them; all at BC Liquor Store prices. Your BC VQA wine store is the place to sip, sample and set the stage for the holidays. No questions about it.
Stop by for a complimentary taste of what BC has to offer! Okanagan Valley BC Wine Information Centre Penticton, 250-490-2006
Mud Bay Wines – Tsawwassen Delta, 604-948-2199
Village VQA Wines – Kitsilano Vancouver, 604-732-8827
Sardis Park VQA Wine Store Chilliwack, 604-824-0042
Westwood Wines Coquitlam, 604-464-5009
Sip Wines Richmond, 604-271-9463
VancOuVer iSland
Swirl Wine Store Maple Ridge, 604-477-0079
BC Wine Museum & VQA Wine Shop Kelowna, 250-868-0441
Swirl Wine Store South Surrey/white rock Surrey, 604-531-0038
Discover Wines Kelowna, 250-868-3990 1-888-500-3990
Swirl Wine Store – Yaletown Vancouver, 604-408-9463
lOwer Mainland
The Wine Emporium Langley, 604-532-5388
Bellevue Wine Company West Vancouver, 604-913-0802
Village VQA Wines – Dunbar Vancouver, 604-269-9433
Kensington Square Wines Burnaby, 604-294-9573
Village VQA Wines – Edgemont North Vancouver, 604-985-9463 1-877-310-9463
BC Wineguys – VQA Wine Store cadboro Bay road Victoria, 250-592-8466 Courtenay BC VQA Wine Store Courtenay, 250-871-1444 The Wine Barrel Victoria, 250-388-0606 VQA Wine Shop at Mattick’s Farm Victoria, 250-658-3116 kOOtenayS BC Wineguys – VQA Wine Store Nelson Nelson, 250-352-1130
winery feature: church & state wines
Achieving
Balance
By Roslyne Buchanan
t
idy rows of luscious vines break way to reveal a crisp, modern structure which is a departure from the Tuscan-style wineries dotting the Golden Mile near Oliver.
Kim Pullen, Proprietor
“The concept permeates everything – a balance between the head and the heart, change and tradition, and nature and nurture.”
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magazine • WINTER 2011/12
That’s Church & State Wines where even the architecture proclaims a plan to stand out. The clean lines of the winery at Coyote Bowl Vineyard contrast dramatically with the natural amphitheatre location, creating a spectacular backdrop for wine tasting. That’s the balance proprietor Kim Pullen seeks and the reasoning behind the name. “It symbolizes the check and balance between the many elements involved in creating the highest quality wine we can produce,” he explains. “The concept permeates everything – a balance between the head and the heart, change and tradition, and nature and nurture.” Even the story of how Pullen came to the winery industry is a deviation from the norm. It wasn’t the passion for wine expressed in many of our maverick winemakers; rather it was an escape from boredom that drew him. Pullen was bored after a one-year relaxation sabbatical that he had granted himself which took him cycling in Australia for four months and then residing in Florida while his 13-year-old son David attended a soccer academy. The entrepreneur, who also owns the Port Sidney Marina, had allowed himself this respite after fulfilling a commitment to the Norwegians who had purchased his salmon farming business to remain for two years to manage their multinational B.C. salmon farming operations. Perhaps Pullen subscribed to the sentiment of the great Scottish satirical writer, essayist, teacher and historian Thomas Carlyle who said, “I’ve got a great ambition to die of exhaustion rather than boredom.” Whatever it was that motivated him when he returned to Vancouver Island, he was looking for a project. He had declined a real estate proposition when the accountant involved queried whether he might be interested in a Victoria winery on its last legs. Immediately, Pullen realized the attractive winery with a restaurant in a beautiful setting on the way to Butchart Gardens had potential, despite misdirection and top heavy management. Recognizing that sound restructuring and progressive leadership could make all the difference, he embraced the challenge and bought it. When he discovered a back log of angry growers who had not been paid, he hit the road to the Okanagan, working tirelessly to pay up and rebuild relations. During these travels, he learned that if his winery was going to achieve his goal of making it one of the top three
winery feature B.C. wineries, he’d better have an Okanagan facility and he found the Coyote Bowl site. In keeping with his mantra that quality, not volume, would guide his winery decisions, he took another bold step and expensive measure to dump out the existing wine stock – over 13,000 cases. Then he hired California-based vintner and consultant Bill Dyer, associated with noted wineries such as California’s Sterling Vineyards and the Okanagan’s Burrowing Owl. Jointly they dumped more cases, all together over $3 million worth of wine to start winemaking from scratch. Three years ago, winemaking was moved to the Coyote Bowl Vineyard and Pullen’s blue eyes glisten with pride when he talks about the “nice team he now has working” with him. Pullen speaks highly of Jeff Del Nin, born in Thunder Bay, who joined Church & State as winemaker in 2009. Del Nin started with a chemistry degree which led him to a job in Australia. There he fell in love with the wine industry, particularly the Viognier grape. He achieved his winemaking degree and worked at Barossa Valley Estate Winery, returning to Canada in 2006 to work for Burrowing Owl. The Coyote Valley Vineyard tasting room like its exterior struts a contemporary appeal. A welcome variation from the typical tasting bar are the comfortable black leather stools. It’s another subtle statement supporting the tenet of quality over volume. The outside deck, too, has been licensed for tasting so people will be encouraged to bring their own lunches, linger to enjoy the scenery and truly appreciate the wines. While hosting events at the Coyote Bowl Winery is not a focus, all the counters within the tasting room are modular and can be reconfigured to a variety of set ups. A wine festival event was such a success, there have been many requests to use the setting for special occasions. As a trial run, Church & State has agreed to host a wedding next summer. (C&S has lots of experience in The Bistro at Brentwood Bay with events.) “We’re improving every year,” says Pullen. “And the great crew has completely bought into our story of balance. One feeds into the other.”
Red Wine of the Year CHURCH & STATE WINES 2009 Coyote Bowl Syrah
“The final wine flight was intense and the voting was close, with three incredibly good, powerful syrahs against Painted Rock’s refined, Bordeaux-style Red Icon blend from B.C., and a delicious Thirty Bench Cabernet Franc from Niagara. Church & State’s Coyote Bowl Syrah is a spectacularly rich, powerful, yet elegant example of a genre from the South Okanagan that is overdue for international breakout. Coyote Bowl is Church & State’s new showpiece winery just off Black Sage Road, centering 30 acres of vineyard. A new star is born.” - Wine Access, Canadian Wine Awards
www.churchandstatewines.com
winery feature
Viticulturist Michael Mauz is part of the dream team for the vineyard. A Geisenheim-trained vineyard manager with over 15 years experience growing grapes, Mauz gets the nod from Pullen as the person who taught him more about wine and grapes in a few months than all other training combined. Pullen is also proud of his assistant viticulturist from Nova Scotia whose fluency in Spanish has been an asset in communicating clearly with the winery’s Mexican workers. As he raves about his entire team and each person’s special attributes, it is clear that Pullen is not the kind of proprietor who leads from a corner office. Even the grass was done by him and his son. Not afraid to get his hands dirty, and consumed with curiosity about all aspects of the winemaking business, he runs the crush line. He shrugs, “I find if I can get dirty and work along with my crew they’re more likely to take me seriously and be part of the vision.” Pullen and Church & State’s story brings to mind the quote by American poet, writer, critic and satirist Dorothy Parker: “The cure for boredom is curiosity. There is no cure for curiosity.” The sweat equity in Pullen’s cure for boredom is paying off. After five years in the red, Church & State is on the black side of the financial equation and the accolades for the wine are pouring in. The 2007 Quintessential - named by his daughter Christina - took gold in the 2011 International Challenge Du Vin (France). With over 4,700 wines entered, only 38 gold medals were awarded and Church & State was the only Canadian producer to receive one, and in the Bordeaux category! Another success story is the 2009 Coyote Bowl Syrah which was named at the 2011 Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards as Red Wine of the Year! Check out the BC Wine Institute web site and look under Awards in the Media section to see the myriad of prestigious awards bestowed on recent vintages. Yes, Pullen is still captivated by Church & State, carefully monitoring the balance in all elements en route to achieving its goals. ChuRCh & State WineS www.churchandstatewines.com Coyote BoWl WineRy: 250-498-2700 (Call ahead to check Tasting Hall times.) 31120 87th Street, Oliver, BC V0H 1T0
BRentWood Bay WineRy: 250-652-2671 1441 Benvenuto Drive, Central Saanich, BC V8M 1J5 Cellar: 250-498-6253 Billing & Shipping: 250-652-2671 ext. 243 www.winebc.com
ONE OKANAGAN VALLEY.
Five Award-Winning Wineries.
4.
1. 2. 3.
5.
1.
2.
3.
4.
17403 Hwy 97, Summerland 250.494.0451 sumacridge.com
2575 Green Lake Road, Okanagan Falls 250.497.8267 sylranch.com
38691 Hwy 97, Oliver 250.498.4500 jacksontriggswinery.com
Road 11 West, Oliver 250.498.6663 inniskillin.com
5.
Please enjoy responsibly.
1400 Rancher Creek Rd, Osoyoos 250.495.2985 nkmipcellars.com
greatestatesokanagan.com
WINTER Dining
ADVENTURES Plan a Gourmet Getaway This Winter
e
By Dona Sturmanis
xcellent food warms our spirits (and stomachs) in the cold season. Why not combine a quest for the best with a mini-vacation to renew the winter blues? Call it a gourmet getaway. Combine dining with some other experiences and you’ll return home having experienced some top nosh, the adventure of a flash journey to another place. You’ll also probably be very full.
When you think of a B.C. winter culinary escape, Vancouver is probably the first place that comes to mind. A good choice, but there are other deserving destinations in B.C. as well. You might also be thinking of the South Okanagan, ultimate wine country, embracing Penticton. Naramata, Okanagan Falls, Oliver and Osoyoos which offers some excellent cuisine along with the signature vintages.
winter dining adventures
Kamloops, Kelowna, Richmond, Tofino, Victoria and Whistler all offer great gourmet getaways!
Enjoy High Tea at the Empress Hotel
Here are six places you may not have thought of for that winter dining adventure. Kamloops: Bring the family to Kamloops for an eating and holiday fun experience. After checking into your accommodation, pick from 200+ restaurants including the scenic Hoodoos Bar and Grill at Sun Rivers, lauded Fiesta Mexicana Restaurant or the perennial favourite and reliable Brownstone Restaurant which boasts an impressive selection of VQA wines. Try some Christmas beer at the Noble Pig Brewhouse and Restaurant. If you don’t get a chance to take the Kamloops Heritage Railway’s Spirit of Christmas Train before the holiday, check out the 14th Annual Winter Okanagan Wine Festival at Sun Peaks Resort January 14-22 for a week of wine events and culinary experiences (article this issue). Kelowna: Choose this favourite city as your base of operations for several days of high end winter dining, wine-tasting, shopping, nights on the town in the city, south to West Kelowna, and north to Lake Country. You’ll find a selection of fine restaurants featuring fresh, local fare prepared by award-winning chefs. Start your tour with a drive to West Kelowna to visit its renowned wineries and have lunch at Old Vines at Quail’s Gate, featuring the seasonal cuisine of Chef Roger Sleiman. Back in Kelowna, among many outstanding choices for dinner are RauDZ Regional Table owned by award-winning chef Rod Butters (featured in this issue) and the totally metro Waterfront Restaurant & Wine Bar overseen by Chef Mark Filatow. Perhaps take in a play or concert at the Rotary Centre for the Arts. The next day, consider dining at Ricardo's, serving up some of the best Mediterranean food ever. End your stay with a trip out to the Okanagan Mission to sample an eclectic lunch created by Chef Jesse Croy at the Organic Bistro at Summerhill Pyramid Winery. On your way out, visit Pandosy Street in the Mission to do some decadent shopping. Richmond: Most people would consider Vancouver to have the perhaps the best Chinese food in Canada, but you’ll really find it traveling a bit further south to Richmond. Consider a few days immersing yourself in superb variations of this delectable cuisine. Stay in one of many first-class hotels and take your culinary tour. Alexandra Road, crossing Number Three Road is so dense with Chinese eateries it’s called Eat Street. There are hundreds of
winter dining adventures options to choose from, ranging from Cantonese to more exotic cuisines from Hunan to Xinjian. The restaurants range from small family operations to decadent high-end establishments. Among the many to choose from are the award-winning Jade Seafood Restaurant (best Cantonese dim sum), the innovative Red Star Seafood Restaurant, and upscale Shanghai River, dedicated to Shanghainese cuisine. tofino: Yes, it has to be said. Try a storm watching winter getaway to this town on the west coast of Vancouver Island. If you choose to stay at the worldrenowned Wickaninnish Inn, you’ll get to experience The Pointe Restaurant which not only has a spectacular Pacific Ocean view scape, but also Chef Nicholas Nutting’s organic Pacific Northwest cuisine. Victoria: How about a romantic weekend a deux in the provincial capital that includes perhaps some serious retail therapy as well as restaurant hopping? Good for you if you can secure a booking at the highly-rated Fairmont Empress Hotel, which offers curry buffet at the Bengal Lounge and international cuisine at the Empress Room, as well as legendary high tea in a special scenic lobby. The Empress is only minutes away from Victoria’s favourite tourist spots. Butchart Gardens holiday light up happens until January 6. Here you’ll find a number of award-winning, top rated restaurants such as Zambri’s (featuring legendary Chef Peter Zambri), Cafe Brio, and one of B.C.’s best pizza places, Prima Strada. Whistler: Book a weekend up at Whistler and enjoy one of their tasting tours. Finer Things Dinner & Wine Tasting, runs December through March and includes four delicious courses paired with fine B.C. wines at four award-winning Whistler restaurants. You will visit an impressive 15,000-bottle wine cellar where you will learn to saber champagne. Also popular is the Hidden Gems Dinner & Beer Tasting Tour which includes four delicious courses at four favorite Whistler restaurants, along with a beer tasting at the Whistler Brewhouse. No tour? You’ll find a staggering 130 eateries here including the tasty Alta Bistro and Rimrock Cafe & Oyster Bar featuring local meat and seafood.
GOURMET
APPROACH THE BENCH Hester Creek Estate Winery proudly presents The Judge
Handpicked from some of the Okanagan’s oldest vines, rooted in the exceptional terroir of the “Golden Mile Bench.” A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Extensive barrel aging delivers a wine that is complex, big and bold.
BC VQA retailers
Third Swirl Debuts in Lower Mainland
s
By Rand Zacharias
howcasing over 650 different wines from British Columbia, a new Swirl VQA store has opened in Maple Ridge.
This Winter, Savour the Sunshine With harvest now behind us and while all of the vines are asleep, we invite you to get cozy and open a bottle of summer sun. Visit us and stock up your cellar with the latest offerings from our family estate, and while you are at it, join the free Mt Boucherie Wine lovers’ Wine Club! Receive our newsletter, advanced notification of new releases, VIP invites, case lot prices and more! We are open all winter long and hope to see you soon. Wine shop open seven days a week from 11:00am until 5:00pm Closed Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New Years Day MT. BOUCHERIE FAMILY ESTATE WINERY 829 DOUGLAS ROAD WEST KELOWNA BC V1Z 1N9 250-769-8803 ● TOLL FREE 1-877-684-2748
www.mtboucheriewinery.com
“The industry, and customers, are seeing the BC VQA stores—only 21—as treasure spots in the few neighbourhoods they are located around our province,” says Jeff Wong, owner of three Swirl stores in the Lower Mainland. “We sell each and every bottle of wine at the same price as wineries and government stores—bringing great savings to our customers—when compared to the price hikes noticed at other cold beer and wine outlets. Our knowledgeable staff helps customers, you can try before you buy, and simply, the atmosphere of these unique operations enhances your wine shopping experiences.” If you’re tired of government liquor stores’ lack of information and sterile environs, a visit to any one of the three Swirl stores will make your search for the perfect Bacchanalian libation, whether red, white or rose, more than just refreshing. “We sell all types of wine paraphernalia in each of our stores, but aerators are very popular with our well-educated clients,” states Wong. “They take hours off aerating times and simply enhance the wine to a large degree, immediately as you serve.” When you walk into the modern, naturally-lit Swirl, you will find wines grouped by type on the expansive shelves instead of by company. This gives the consumer the ability to compare, for example, different Merlots with each other, enhancing your wine exploration experience. Included in your visit to Swirl is the option of tasting a few of their wine offerings in-house. Why not sample the wine you wish to bring home? Joining Swirl’s Wine Club can also keep you in the know of the ever-changing releases that B.C.’s wine masters are bringing to autumnal tables annually. Signing up is a free adventure that only opens grand barrel-wrapped treasures to be discovered in your future oenological quests. No wine store would be complete without an inventory to accompany their well-stocked shelves. Crackers, chocolates, wine glasses and decanters are just a few of the items that can be co-ordinated into a joyous holiday basket for friends, lovers and oenology aficionados who you call family. Check out Swirl offerings or sign up for their Wine Club. Swirl Wine Store 22286 Dewdney Trunk Road Maple Ridge, B.C. swirlwinestore.ca 604-477-0079
BC VQA tasting notes
Winter
Wine Finds
By Rhys Pender, MW
TOP TEN PICKS Mission Hill 2010 Five Vineyards Pinot Grigio, Okanagan Valley $16 Consistently a top performer in the Pinot Gris/Grigio category. Medium intensity in aroma with pear, orange, cantaloupe melon and delicate floral notes. The palate is where this wine gets exciting. It is quite full bodied without being fat and has delicious, fresh and zippy acidity, mineral notes, nectarine, pear and grapefruit that linger on a long finish. Perfect with some B.C. Spot Prawns sautéed with garlic. Tinhorn Creek 2009 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley $20 Cabernet Franc is becoming increasingly popular and Tinhorn was one of its pioneers. In the ripe 2009 vintage, the richer side of the variety comes through with aromas of ripe black cherry, raspberry and plum along with floral notes, chocolate, oak and just a tiny hint of dried herbs. The palate is intensely flavoured with more cherry, blueberry, blackberry, oak, spice and roasted herbs. Begs to be paired with a rosemary studded roasted leg of lamb. Hester Creek 2008 Reserve Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley $27 Bright and ripe red fruits, with plum, raspberry, blackberry, cherry and red currant overlaying toasty chocolatey oak. The palate is dry, medium bodied and spicy with some characteristic roasted herb along with sweet raspberry, cassis, oak, vanilla, custard and roasted nut. This wine has the refreshing acidity and also the intensity of fruit to stand up to tomato based dishes such as Spaghetti Bolognese or Osso Buco.
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
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BC VQA tasting notes
Producers of award winning wines in the heart of the Okanagan . . .
. . . it’s our passion,
make it yours
Burrowing Owl 2009 Cabernet Franc, Okanagan Valley $33 The ripe 2009 vintage shows through in this Cabernet Franc with intense red fruit aromas of sun warmed raspberries, plum, cassis and a subtle floral note. The palate shows nice chocolatey oak, dried herbs and intense blackberry, cherry, raspberry and some baking spices with a long finish. Has the structure to mature for six-eight years or longer. Pair with venison roasted with thyme and a juniper scented demi-glace. Sumac Ridge 2009 Black Sage Vineyard Merlot, Okanagan Valley $20 It feels like this wine has been around and popular forever. A little closed on the nose, it opens up to have rich plum, cassis, vanilla, burlap and blackberry aromas. The palate is intense with ripe plum, dried cherry, pepper, sage, violets, chocolate, marzipan and vanilla and plenty of grippy tannins to help see this wine develop over the next decade. Pair this with a thick, rare grilled beef steak. Cassini Cellars 2009 Reserve Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley $29 Cassini is really making a name for themselves consistently producing very good wine. This is a big, rich peaches and cream style Chardonnay but done very well. On the intense nose there is peach, pineapple, mango and lots of well integrated oak showing as vanilla, custard and caramel. The palate is full and buttery with nectarine, peach, baked apple, oak spice, caramel and savoury lees notes. Pair with a grilled chicken breast on a pile of creamy braised leeks. Nk'Mip 2008 Qwam Qwmt Syrah,
Desert Hills Wines available at VQA stores province wide 30480 71st St. Black Sage Road Oliver, BC V0H 1T0
(250) 498•1040 deserthills.ca
$35 This is classic B.C. Syrah made in the unique style that falls somewhere between those of the old world and the big Aussie blockbusters. It is intense on the nose and peppery, smoky and meaty along with roasted peppers, plums, blueberry and a pretty violet subtlety in the background. The palate is full and intense with black cherry, cassis, more pepper and some lingering dusty tannins. This wine will pair well with gamey meats. Raid your hunting friends’ freezers. Okanagan Valley
BC VQA tasting notes Sandhill 2009 Phantom Creek Vineyard Syrah, Okanagan Valley $40 This wine is perennially amongst the best red wines in the country and has picked up numerous awards over the years. The wine is huge with intense blackberry, plum, black cherry, pepper, vanilla, roast herbs and a bacon aroma that is consistent in this wine year in year out. The palate is full with dark brambly fruits and some savoury charred meat, leather and cedar notes to go with the toasty oak. A big, brooding monster of a wine. Pair with a bacon heavy boeuf bourguignon. Gray Monk 2010 Pinot Auxerrois, Okanagan Valley $16 The wines of Gray Monk seem to be going from strength to strength in recent years and the whole range of 2010 whites are excellent. Auxerrois is a less famous member of the Pinot family but this one has a soft, floral, cantaloupe, mango, pear and ripe citrus nose. The palate is dry, surprisingly full with crisp acidity and stone fruit, grapefruit, ripe pear, lemon and mineral notes with a long finish. Pair with a poached piece of Osoyoos Lake salmon. Quails’ Gate 2008 Merlot, Okanagan Valley $25 Maybe they are better known for their Pinot Noir but Quails’ Gate produces quality wines with many different varieties. The 2008 Merlot is a big wine at 15.5% alcohol with ripe plum, black fruit, raspberry, clove and violet aromas. The palate is all structure with lots of body, tannin and acidity behind the blueberry, dried raspberry and plum fruit and plenty of toasty oak. The richness and structure of this wine will be perfect with braised lamb shanks. These wines are available at BC VQA retail locations.
Award Winning Wines Erupting With Flavour!
778-755-5550 info@volcanichillswinery.com 2845 Boucherie Rd., West Kelowna
BC VQA recipes
ROASTED
cornish game hen with winter root vegetables
Recipe, Food Styling and Photography by Gary Faessler By River's Bend Winery Serves 6. 6 (approximately1 lb each) Cornish game hens 3 tbsp unsalted softened butter 12 small carrots 6 large shallots 3 baby turnips cut in half 6 medium red potatoes cut in half 2 bay leaves 6 sprigs fresh thyme 1 1/2 cups dry white wine Salt and ground pepper to taste
SuGGeSTed wiNe PAiRiNG: River’s Bend Scarlet Estate Red
Preheat the oven to 400°F and position the oven rack in the centre of the oven. Rinse hens inside and out with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Tuck wing tips under the body and season the hens with salt and pepper. Pack stuffing into each hen and tie legs together to hold shape. Place them breast side up in a large shallow roasting pan. Rub the hens with 1/2 tablespoon each of the butter. Add the root vegetables, bay leaves, thyme and wine to the pan. Roast hens until cooked through and juices run clear when thigh is pierced, about 45 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and transfer hens to a serving platter. Loosely tent with aluminum foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Place one on each plate, divide caramelized vegetables and spoon the pan juices over the hens and serve.
Pinot Noir, a Gamay or other light, fruity reds such as River’s Bend Scarlett are a perfect match with these golden-crisped hens. While the Chardonnay, thyme, butter and cooking drippings create a delicious pan sauce, a wild rice, cous cous or a classic bread herb stuffing will add even more flavour. Just make sure that the stuffing is cooled and stuff the birds right before you roast them.
BC VQA recipes
WEST COAST
seafood stew
Recipe, Food Styling and Photography by Gary Faessler By River's Bend Winery
Serves 6 3 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion copped 2-3 cloves garlic, chopped Red pepper flakes to taste 1 cup River’s Bend Viognier 2 cups water 1 1/2 lb assorted firm-fleshed fish filets such as salmon, rock cod, halibut skin off cut into 2” pieces 1 lb small hard-shell clams 1 lb mussels cleaned and de-bearded 1/2 lb small octopus, squid cleaned and cut 12 large prawns peeled tail on 2 medium ripe tomatoes seeded, and chopped Chopped parsley for garnish Ground white pepper and sea salt to taste Slices of baguette, toasted and rubbed on one side with a garlic clove
SuGGeSTed wiNe PAiRiNG: River’s Bend Viognier, an exotic full bodied and fragrant white wine with honeysuckle aromas. Orchard ripe peach, apricot and green apple flavour notes are followed by a dry citrus finish. Excellent with seafood.
In a large braising pot over medium-low fire, heat the olive oil and add the onion, garlic, pepper flakes and cook gently until onions are transparent about two minutes. Add the octopus and squid; stir and cook until opaque, about two minutes. Over medium heat add the wine and simmer for one minute longer. Add the tomatoes, white pepper, salt and cook for about five minutes. Add the water and bring to a simmer. Add the clams, mussels, prawns and fish. Cover and cook until all the clams and mussels open and the fish is opaque throughout, about five minutes. Adjust the seasonings. Ladle the soup in warmed soup plates, garnish with parsley and serve with baguette toasts.
BC VQA recipes
TWO-TONED
winter soup with roasted corn relish
Submitted by okanagan Crush Pad in Summerland
3 Granny Smith apples 3 parsnips 1 tbsp butter 1 tbsp olive oil 1 cup chopped onion 4 to 6 cups chicken stock
Peel and core the apples and peel the parsnips. Cut into 1-inch chunks. In a saucepan, heat olive oil and butter over medium high heat and sauté the onion. Add apples and parsnips and sauté until soft. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until soft. Puree with hand blender and season. The same can be done with butternut squash. Peel and cut squash into 1-inch chunks. Sauté onion in butter and olive oil and add squash. Add chicken stock and simmer until soft. Puree with a hand blender and season. To do the two-toned look, both soups should be similar textures. Pour each soup in a measuring cup and pour together at the same time into a warm soup bowl. Garnish with roasted corn salsa.
ROASTed CORN SAlSA SuGGeSTed wiNe PAiRiNG: Bartier Rose
66
magazine • WINTER 2011/12
Grill a corn cob on the barbecue, turning until golden brown. Alternatively, sauté kernels in olive oil over high heat until golden brown. Remove to cool and cut kernels into a bowl. Mix with green onions, cilantro and season.
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