Panorama Berlin Magazine Spring/Summer 2019 by Panorama Berlin

YEARS

PANORAMA FASHION FAIR NOVA | HALL 9 | BOOTH 9.23

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MAGAZINE

PA N O R A M A FA S H I O N FA I R B E R L I N G M B H

Kurfürstenstraße 12 10785 Berlin PU B LI S H E R

Jörg Wichmann (V. i. S. d. P.)

E DITOR

Ralf Strotmeier ART DI R ECTION

Dagmar Puzberg GRAPHIC DESIGN

Johannes Grünberg C ONTR I B UTOR S

Andres Damm Cloat Gerold Ilona Marx Jan Eggers Jan Joswig Jürgen Müller Karolina Landowski Kay Alexander Plonka Lisa-Fé Brosig Lisa Maria Wandel Markus Oess Natalie Marth Nicole Urbschat Thorsten Osterberger Tom Heise T R A N S L AT O R

Cathy Lara MARKETING

Magdalena Falkner Constance Nowak PRINT

Wagemann Medien GmbH Berlin THAN K YOU

Ellie @ DSM London Rebecca @ LN-CC Andrea Fichtl @ Getty Images COVE R

Collage: Dagmar Puzberg

Q W S T I O N Flagship store in Copenhagen. Also one of our store favorites. See more: AROUND THE WORLD

ANZEIGE Die Eyecatcher für Ihr Schaufenster Lassen Sie Ihr Schaufenster erstrahlen: Die Samsung Smart Signage Displays der OM Serie sind ein echter Blickfang. Strahlender Blickfang Wie spricht man Kunden schon im Vorübergehen an? Mit einem strahlenden Blickfang wie den Samsung SchaufensterDisplays der OM Serie. Speziell für den Einsatz in Umgebungen wie Schaufenstern, Eingangsbereichen oder Einkaufszentren entwickelt, überzeugen sie durch ihre hohe Helligkeit und können brillante bewegte Bilder ohne Spiegelungen liefern. Lenken Sie die Aufmerksamkeit der Passanten auf Ihr Angebot und das rund um die Uhr.

Wie gemacht für Ladenräume Flexibel, wenn es darauf ankommt: Die Konfiguration der Displays und die Übertragung der Inhalte erfordert keine aufwendige Verkabelung sondern funktioniert per WiFi-Modul und Fernbedienung. Mit der MagicInfo Mobile Lösung lassen sich die Geräte sogar intuitiv und praktisch von einem Smartphone oder Tablet aus verwalten. Flexibel sind Sie auch bei der Wahl der passenden Displaygröße von 32 1, 461 und 551 bis hin zu 75 Zoll1.

www.samsung.com/de/business/smart-signage/all-smart-signage Energieeffizienzklassen auf der Skala von A++ (höchste Effizienz) bis E (geringste Effizienz). Energieeffizienzklasse: D.

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EXCLUS IVITY IN ITS PUREST FORM

RETAIL OF THE FUTURE

The Australian cosmetics brand A E S O P is leading the way in retail design: With over 150 stores worldwide, no two look alike in any way.

ILONA MAR X

We live in a world that offers endless shopping opportunities. These days we have no trouble getting ahold of the things we use daily – and on a 24/7 basis. However, with its unlimited possibilities, consumption also creates a breeding ground for the opposite global trend: In the search for a shopping experience that speaks more to our senses – and that perhaps makes more sense to us – we have seen the use of more specialized and more exclusive store concepts in the past few years. You can’t help but notice that the hottest stores are using concepts that strikingly contrast with the attention-grabbing nature of the internet. There’s no way to top the efficiency of online shopping and product diversity on the internet; that’s why we turn our attention to different values. For example, stores that offer a tranquil oasis, score points with the fashion crowd. Information is given out in gentle doses and all the commercial buzz remains outside. A high sense of quality matters and so does a comprehensive level of expertise, a welldeveloped customer service, and the ability to directly connect with the community: These approaches all offer an effective way to tackle the internet and commercialism. After all, no one said it would be easy to keep wellinformed customers who get easily bored in a good mood – or to capture their attention for a good long while. Such a feat is mostly pulled off by stylistically confident individuals: the ‘analog’ influencers of our time. This isn’t really a new recipe for success. In 1925, retail pioneer Gaston-Louis Vuitton already discovered that a store owner needs to have a film director’s skills. Harry Gordon Selfridge, the founder of the eponymous department

store, understood how to captivate and entertain his audience like no other. Today, a century later, what’s important is once again the person standing behind the counter. The products that are sold need to be part of a curated selection – a term that’s almost overused. It still doesn’t change the fact that a concept’s success is contingent on the products being selected by a single person whose taste and expertise determine its success or failure. The retailer’s main task: to select brands that aren’t on everyone’s lips and that can’t immediately be found on the internet – and to present them in the right environment. This might mean using obstacles to lure people into stores, thereby giving them the feeling that they are among the chosen few, those who are connaisseurs and thus get to experience the rare pleasure of being granted access to the store’s exquisite world of style. D A R K L A N D S in Berlin-Wedding is a good example of a counter-model to products that are available to everyone 24/7. Located on Lindower Straße in the rear building on the 2nd floor, it’s about as far away from increasingly commercial Berlin-Mitte as it gets. If you didn’t know that the shabby side door off the courtyard entryway leads to one of the hot spots of the Berlin fashion scene, you would never find your way there. This is where a set of very well-informed and fashion-conscious gentlemen stand in line to get in. Designers such as Austria’s Carol Christian Poell, Boris Bidjan Saberi, and Maurizio Amadei with his label M A + are just some of the top dogs strutting their stuff in this shop. Showcasing around 30 designers and their collections, D A R K L A N D S does not have a single piece of clothing that hangs in the store by chance.

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Personality, exclusivity, variability, individuality: These parameters will determine the future of retail trade. Inspired by the hottest names in the retail world and the most elaborate concepts, we would like to show you where retail businesses are headed. Some of the key figures we are about to mention have already made a name for themselves over the last few decades and proven that they know how to permanently captivate their clientele’s attention. The others – newbies in the biz – are pursuing completely new ideas. Both of these – the seasoned player and the newcomer – are paving the road ahead, taking it into a not-so-distant future where individual retailers, verticalization, and e-commerce confidently converge.

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The Canadian Campbell McDougall, lord of the courtyard and owner of D A R K L A N D S , is very enthusiastic about the store. He strokes the fabrics, expertly explains the fabrics’ special characteristics, points to hidden details. The selection at D A R K L A N D S stands for an arty, avant-garde look. Some of the designs even look like something a pop star would wear. The Canadian isn’t afraid of change. “All things have their time and eventually change – that’s normal.” Consequently, change is firmly integrated into the concept on which D A R K L A N D S is based. “From the beginning, D A R K L A N D S was conceived as a nomadic shop,” says Campbell. With modest beginnings, the store started with D A R K L A N D S 1.0. Campbell, a Berliner by choice, never thought it would grow into something as big as D A R K L A N D S 5.0, which is the store’s current fifth version. And nobody knows if the current dark-fashion trend will continue. If not, “it’s no problem,” shrugs Campbell. One thing is fully out of the question for him: expanding into other fashion styles. “I‘ve been wearing this style myself since I was 17,” he says. Many owner-managed stores don’t ban e-commerce, but cleverly incorporate it into an existing concept – this is another recipe for success. Berlin’s D A R K L A N D S isn’t the only store to use this concept. Antwerp’s G R A A N M A R K T 1 3 1 also makes use of it. In actuality a kind of mixed-use symphony, it houses a fashion and interior design store, a restaurant as well as rental apartments. “It’s a growing business for us – with a lot of potential,” says Ilse Cornelissens, a former lawyer who, together with

her husband, runs G R A A N M A R K T . “Antwerp is still an underrated city that isn’t on everyone‘s travel route.” In fact, she often presents their webshop products here, which makes a charming impression and creates a sense of authenticity and trust. “We wanted to create a place where people could really feel at home,” says Cornelissens about the store that opened in 2010. “We actually once lived here for a few years.” In the meantime, they’ve taken over the entire building with its roughly 1,000 square meters of space. In the basement, Seppe Nobels, a chef, does his cooking. He also happens to be one of the world’s top five vegetarian chefs, according to ‘We’re Smart World.’ Upstairs, a rental unit awaits style-conscious tourists who are visiting Antwerp. “Our goal isn’t to convince customers about the validity of any brands,” she says. “We don’t want the stress of turning a quick profit – neither for us nor for our customers.” Instead, the owners rely on slow fashion – and a lively engagement in the various arts of exchange. Last not least, that of secondhand clothing. “At special weekend events, we actually sell our customers’ second-hand clothing,” she says. “In return, they get a coupon that can go towards purchasing something new in the shop. These events have become very popular!” It’s very helpful for Ilse and her husband because it generates intense contact. “Next weekend we are organizing a lunch at the studio of ceramic artist Pierre Culot – a site otherwise not open to the public.” This is a great opportunity for the friends of G R A A N M A R K T 1 3 to peruse our products up close. “Limited events like this are always good,” says Ilse, speaking

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from experience. “When people come by appointment only, they inevitably buy something. If the doors are always open, the incentive isn’t really there.”

Space is a luxury: A generous use of space, light and air can be seen in the approaches taken by G R A A N M A R K T 1 3 in Antwerp (left side), S O N G in Vienna (top left) and A N D R E A S M U R K U D I S in Berlin (top right).

Myung-Il Song prefers communicating her message to the men and women who visit her shop during regular store hours. “This is not a museum” is written on the cards that Korean-born Myung-Il likes to give to her customers – of course, with a wink. The owner of the Vienna store S O N G 2 has been in business for twenty years and shouldn’t be surprised when many of her customers are overcome by a museum-like sense of awe at the sight of such a well-curated selection of products. Her design universe spans 350 square meters on Praterstraße. In addition to high-quality clothing, her store is known for its unusual interior design. “There are no limits for me,” says Myung-Il. “Anything that makes life more beautiful fits in my shop. It wasn’t my intention for people to refer to S O N G as some type of concept store. I don’t mind, but there actually isn’t an underlying concept.” For S O N G one thing simply led to another. The former art and graphic design student’s surefire instinct brought her worldwide recognition. She isn’t very interested in media buzz or trends – and e-commerce also has, as she puts it, “zero” influence on her sales. “We offer the best service,” she says. “There’s no way around that and word spreads quickly about things like this.” Moreover, you can’t underestimate the importance of the shop’s atmosphere. It has a raw and seemingly untouched look but was carefully redesigned by Austrian architect Gregor

Eichinger, who filled it with pieces of furniture from the prewar period. It has a warm, inviting and luxurious ambience, where the collections of A.F.Vandevorst, Cédric Charlier, Dries Van Noten and Olympia Le-Tan, the furniture of Piet Hein Eek and Mathis Esterhazy as well as the ceramics of Astier de Villatte come into their own. All exclusively in Vienna: That’s a prerequisite for S O N G . Where does she get her inspiration? “In London,” says Myung-Il. “That’s also where one of my favorite stores is located: Marianna Kennedy. And in New York, where I stop by De Vera as often as possible.” When asked what she likes best about being a retailer, the native Korean answers: “interpersonal contact and the aesthetic experience.” Myung-Il Song’s soul mate is clearly Berlin’s Andreas Murkudis. With one difference: The man who owns the store that bears his name actually once worked as a museum curator. He supervised the process of collecting the items exhibited in Kreuzberg’s Museum of Things – a hodgepodge and curiosity cabinet of everyday objects, all sorted thematically by color, inviting viewers to embark on a journey through the 20th century. But Murkudis himself transgresses the usual notions of what should be sold in a store and sells a broad diversity of products. Why should he limit himself? He has plenty of space in his two Berlin stores, A N D R E A S M U R K U D I S S TO R E 8 1 3 and S TO R E 7 7 . One of the secrets to

his success goes to the heart of product presentation: He knows how to awaken desire. Located in a neighborhood

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teeming with art galleries and in a space on Potsdamer Straße where the Tagesspiegel newspaper used to be printed, Murkudis creates a landscape of commodities and ideas, builds islands for the eye to collect itself and rest while gazing around. “For me, space is the greatest luxury,” he says. “It lets the items fully unfold in front of the viewer.” The generous use of space not only plays an important role in independent retail. Companies have also recognized the signs of the times and know that it’s important to present their products in the right environment – with farreaching consequences. Some companies have experienced immense growth in large part because of their sophisticated retail concepts. Diversity and individualism make you sexy. A case in point is the Australian cosmetics brand A E S O P 4 . Founded in 1987, the company’s flagship stores have cult status among fans of the products. And indeed: A E S O P has over 150 stores and no two look alike. Rather, the most innovative international architectural firms such as Oslo’s Snøhetta or Milan’s Vincenzo De Cotiis seem to have been competing with A E S O P ’s in-house design department for years to see who can develop the most beautiful store. It’s impossible to single out one of the shops as the most special. With its large bricks made of unread and re-purposed editions of the New York Times, is the Nolita shop more interesting? Or the one in Melbourne with its countless layers of industrial-strength cardboard boxes? As an architecture and design fan, it’s best to simply visit all the flagships – even if that means taking

a trip around the world and visiting twenty countries. The question still remains: Where are things headed in the next few years? Judging by the stores that recently opened and made a splash in the media, the stores that will be successful are those that present an entirely new understanding of what it means to be a store. Yes, retailers who run such stores are indeed heeding the rules and offering features such as a curated selection, individuality, a wide range of products, space, and their own strong personal sense of style. However, to increase the shopper’s desire even more, the exclusivity factor is driven to the extreme. Recent months have seen two spectacular new additions apply a very logical motto: “By appointment only.” But this model isn’t really anything new for Los Angeles’ C A S A P E R F E C T , a mid-century residence that was recently transformed into a walk-through dream by the New York interior design institution, The Future Perfect. Elvis, Priscilla and Lisa Marie Presley made this Beverly Hills villa their home from 1967 to 1973. The fact that C A S A P E R F E C T can only be visited by appointment actually keeps excessive fans away from the store. Nevertheless, the new owner, David Alhadeff, obviously uses the previous owners’ fame to generate interest in the furniture and products he sells. “We offer a more intimate context in which to peruse our collections,” says Alhadeff, explaining his approach. The New Yorker’s West Coast store features collections by Lindsey Adelman, De La Espada, Michael Anastassiades, Piet Hein Eek and Dimore Studio. “This is

much more than just a mere retail shop,” says Alhadeff proudly, fully aware of the fact that C A S A P E R F E C T is fully in keeping with the latest trends. In the good old world, a similar phenomenon can also be seen. More precisely, in London’s Shoreditch neighborhood, which – although it is older than Beverly Hills – is always in a state of permanent renewal. B L U E M O U N TA I N S C H O O L is written on the façade of the house on the corner, where Redchurch and Chance Streets meet. But it definitely isn’t a school and it also isn’t a store, as owners James Brown and Christie Fels underscore. They prefer calling it an “interdisciplinary space.” It features a series of galleries, a kitchen, a dining and wine area, and a few viewing rooms, in other words, showrooms – all on six floors. The Hostem Archive on the ground floor houses a selection of textiles, garments, ceramics and furniture and still has the strongest retail character. “Retail as we know it is dead,” says Brown. He banned clothing racks from his new project. Brown and Fels don’t see themselves as retailers per se, but rather as mediators and hosts who provide access to their space. The third and fourth floors are connected by way of a suspended copper staircase. This is where Valentin Loellmann, a Maastricht designer, presents one-off furniture pieces. Also integrated into the ‘school’ is Mãos, a kitchen and dining area that was created when Brown teamed up with Nuno Mendes, a well-known chef in the city. With some luck (and a reservation) you can enjoy the three-hour tasting menu. But things get even more

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selective: You need a special invitation to visit Grace’s, a music listening room on the rooftop with a beautiful terrace. Guests can relax and enjoy their favorite sounds here. The record shop, Low Company, has a really nice, small shop up here. To date, there hasn’t been a lot in the press yet about people’s experiences in stores like this, but one thing is certain: This much exclusivity is bound to fuel the grapevine in London and attract lots of attention to everyone involved. And perhaps that’s really where the future lies: in only leaving the shop door open a crack – and in leaving the rest to opinion makers, whose influence and credibility will only snowball in time. Clever is the retailer that knows how to take advantage of the signs of the times.

4 You can’t miss the green tiles of the A E S O P store in Berlin-Mitte. In rich shades of green, they leave a lasting impression. This setting showcases the A E S O P products beautifully.

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FROM TO The D A N P E A R L M A N G R O U P is a Berlin-based group of owner-managed, strategic creative agencies with over 120 employees. Within the group of agencies, Volker Katschinski is the creative director of DAN PE AR LM AN MARKENARCHITEK TUR GMBH. Since the agency’s founding, Katschinski, who holds a degree in interior design, has been responsible for all the agency’s retail projects.

POS POX

Interview R A L F S T R O T M E I E R with creative director V O L K E R K A T S C H I N S K I Mr. Katschinski, the latest slogan in retail in is: From point of sale to point of experience! What exactly does that mean?

When we are searching for the zeitgeist in our urban society, our desires, longings and possibilities condense, quickly creating an essence that can best be described as “experience.” Modern humans circulate in an increasingly complex world on a 24/7 basis. They are always ‘on.’ Work, spare time, and the many roles we inhabit every day aren’t clearly separated from one another anymore. In this all-encompassing complexity, there is one limiting factor, namely “time,” more precisely “free time.” The scarcer the resource of “free time” is for all of us, the more important it becomes for each individual to figure out the perfect way to fill this free time. We all have one thing in common: We want to enjoy a life-enriching experience in our free time – a “memorable experience.”

What exactly is a “memorable experience” ?

If you look at the latest scientific figures, we all arrived in the “experience economy” some time ago: Almost 80 percent of millennials prefer spending money on an experience rather than a product. Experiences give meaning and bestow status, which is exactly why almost 70 percent of the population suffers from a fear of missing out on something amidst all the things there are to choose from. Access to experiences is now more important than owning material possessions (source: Eventbrite 2016). Quite inevitably the question arises: Is this bad for the retail market that relies on people to consume products? The answer is clearly no!

“Access to experiences is now more important than owning material possessions.”

There’s no doubt about it. Brick-and-mortar fashion retailers are under pressure. So what do we need to do to ensure that we can find stores in the real world tomorrow? P A N O R A M A B E R L I N magazine met up with Volker Katschinski, co-founder and creative director of the D A N P E A R L M A N G R O U P , which was founded in 1999, to learn more about the future of retail stores.

Okay, but a “memorable experience” is ultimately a consumer product, isn’t it?

Okay, yes, because even if, as mindful persons, we increasingly dislike meaningless consumption, we still want to experience something new whenever the mood strikes us, and we especially want to maintain and further personalize our lifestyle. That’s why, like our ancestors, the hunters and gatherers, we seek to make our lives complete, and we supplement them with consumer products, services and, above all, experiences. Once we’ve bagged our loot, we like to show it off in the form of photos and selfies on all social media channels and then enjoy reading what our followers have to say about our latest shopping finds. This is good news for all retailers and especially for brick-and-mortar stores, because where else can shopping address all the senses in such a targeted manner and become a comprehensive experience that makes – and keeps – consumers happy in the long run? What exactly are great experiences in the retail context?

What each of us specifically understands as a “great experience” varies from person to person. Experiences,

however, are proven to be particularly sustainable if they deliver the following: They offer passive or even active participation; they involve or absorb us; they appeal to us aesthetically; they entertain us or even teach us something new. And, above all, they offer us an escape from everyday life, in short, “escapism.” If we close our eyes now and think of Disneyland or the last ride we took on a rollercoaster, then all of these principles are fully confirmed by our memory. But don’t you think that retailers managing brick-and-mortar stores are more likely to think about sales per square meter than Disneyland?

It’s time for retailers to finally understand that traditional principles like optimizing the shopping experience for “sales per square meter” have become obsolete. If you want to survive as a retailer, you need to see yourself as part of the leisure industry and turn your stores and malls into leisure destinations. The new credo is: “More experiences per square meter!”

H AG EM E YER M I N D EN Payment counter or cool bar? With clever interior design, even paying is sexy. (also see previous page)

â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you want to survive as a retailer, you need to see yourself as part of the leisure industry.â&#x20AC;?

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“A store’s absolute ‘non plus ultra’ is to increase the amount of time customers spend in a store and optimize it in both a quantitative and qualitative sense.”

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M ARC O’ P O LO S T R A N D C A S I N O in Heringsdorf An integrated restaurant turns a fashion retailer into a meeting spot, a place for social interaction, giving people another reason to stop by again.

What does it take to transform a fashion retailer into a leisure-experience destination?

In the leisure industry, it’s called “thematization.” It refers to a theme and an overarching story that is told about a leisure facility. Every attraction or destination has exactly one theme, because good thematization is unique and involves clear positioning. Stores can tell a story that reflects the overall theme (a strategy rightly called “storytelling”) and takes visitors on a journey through the staged scenery. The visitor’s choreographed path through the leisure/shopping scenery is also described as a “customer journey.” If the visitor is successfully integrated into the story and becomes part of the story, it’s called “immersion.” A nice new word for a familiar topic. In your opinion, what should such storytelling focus on?

Storytelling mainly has to focus on the moment when visitors first reach the [staged] destination, because that’s when they decide if they want to leave everyday life behind and fully immerse themselves in the new experience. The great strength of every destination in the leisure industry is its ability to transform our everyday life into an experience. The leisure industry even developed a specific term, “tunnel of reset,” for this transformation process. The human factor is equally important, that is to say, the staff who work at the destination. In this respect as well it’s once again the leisure industry that sets the norms on how to work it: Staffers at amusement parks often amaze us with their

distinct customer service orientation, their friendliness and their own perfectly staged role in the overall storyline. So a successful customer experience means that shoppers need to be permanently entertained in stores?

No! You don’t want to overwhelm visitors. You need some type of yin and yang, a well-dosed balance of excitement and relaxation. For this to happen, you need a well-curated mix of entertainment and edutainment, decompression and relaxation zones, time to do things and time to just hang out. A store’s absolute “non plus ultra” is to increase the amount of time customers spend in a store and optimize it in both a quantitative and qualitative sense – through culinary offerings, events, service features, interactions, and even landmarks, super signs and photo spots. Last but not least, a well-curated, aesthetically pleasing product portfolio and the destination’s design determine the quality of leisure time and the generated turnover. Today, it’s easy to determine if a design is successful, because people like posting photos and selfies of “grammable experiences” on Instagram and other social media. Moreover, this makes it clear that destinations shouldn’t miss out on being linked to the digital world. Thank you for this conversation.

Interview R A L F S T R O T M E I E R with N A T A L I E H Ã&#x201E; N T Z E

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GREAT STORE DESIGN

First off, in general: What are the criteria that make a store great?

A great store keeps its promises when it comes to products and service. A store’s design is an announcement – of luxury, functionality or affordable pricing, and this promise has to be fulfilled the moment the customer steps into the store. Customers need to experience the feeling of “I’ve come to the right place.” What has changed over the years in terms of store design?

Structures have opened up, become less rigid. Cash registers have become invisible; those traditional cash register stations have become smaller and smaller or vanished entirely. Smaller sales floor spaces have once again become much more interesting. When sales can be conducted along different channels, possibilities open up to repurpose the freed-up spaces and curate them differently. Suddenly, we have public workspaces and WLAN in areas where there used to be display tables for products. Retailers are increasingly avoiding creating that classic shopping ambience, while sales-floor designs now take their cues from religious architecture and large art galleries. Is there a store you consider especially impressive or exhilarating?

Natalie Häntze has a law degree. As a research fellow at the department of marketing and commerce at Göttingen University, she started exploring the issue of ‘brands at the point of sale.’ She then worked for a variety of companies in the areas of commerce, fashion and interior design. For over ten years now, she has been advising commercial firms, as well as design and architecture firms. Specializing in brand communication and corporate architecture, she is the editor of Design Lodge, a magazine on retail and design‚ and she also authored a book, Great Store Design. We met with Natalie Häntze to quiz her on store designs and on what makes them great.

That would be Acne Studio in Los Angeles. They took the setting of a David Hockney painting and transferred it to the sales floor, recreating its ambience using minimal forms, stark colors and glass fronts that create transparency and distance simultaneously. Are there any mistakes in store design that are significant and that recur again and again?

Flashiness! A store doesn’t have to be perfect. Sometimes it’s sufficient to make pure product presentation the main goal. That’s how stores can

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Photo page 18: T H E R O W : 8440 Melrose Place,

Los Angeles. Photo page 19: French elegance at D I O R in Düsseldorf. Photo right: M AT C H E S FA S H I O N . C O M

in Wimbledon Village, elegantly designed by the London architectural office MR A. Photo below: S E I B U in Tokyo: The wrought-iron fences

of European parks inspired the Japanese design studio Nendo.

world’s oceans have definitely led to a lot of rethinking. What’s the difference in design between single-brand flagship stores and owner-operated multi-brand stores?

win customers over – by curating a reliable and comprehensive assortment of items and by offering quality customer service. So is there something that always works?

Authenticity! There are many shops managed by their owners, and they know their customers very well – offering a cup of coffee or a glass of Prosecco is often more important than any sophisticated retail design. It’s very clear: Empathy is the best concept.

Is there a general trend in store design?

People have become quite serious about making store architecture sustainable. Of course, we first need to define when acrylic or some other flooring material is really sustainably produced. Communicating with customers has to become sustainable too. This doesn’t just mean dealing with data, but also with content and the question of quality. The transparency debate, the fake news scandal and these harrowing images of plastic garbage cluttering the

There’s not really a big difference. Brands have to think globally but act locally. When I go to a flagship store in a big city, I expect to encounter the full weight of the brand on a relatively small shop floor. In the department store, I’d want to experience the same brand as a confident ingredient within an assortment of multiple flavors. Retailers have to think of themselves as a kind of brand as well – one that integrates newcomers, evergreens and big players in a local setting. Retail portfolios mirror global structures in their assortments and they position them within their own local structure. Both of these types of stores require their own architectural language. Is there a difference between women and men when it comes to store design preferences?

In principle, I think, we’re currently in the midst of a process of transformation. Parsing that process by gender is irrelevant. What’s important is one’s membership in a group, in a world of shared experience. This is what determines our choice of where

Those luxury brand flagship stores, sometimes they’re just brimming with perfection. How important is a sense of humor in retail design for you?

Yes, please, more humor! And more levity. When we finally accept that digital restructuring also creates new design freedoms, then we can declare: Inspirational multiplicity instead of perfect trade fair displays! Is good retail design choosy?

Design should not be arbitrary; in that respect it is choosy. At best, it communicates an attitude or a position. It all depends on how genuine this is – what does the brand stand for. Store design is the visible result of this process, which originates deep within the company. This leads to a related question: How do you fill the vacuum that’s been created by our waking up from the social media frenzy and by our need for transparency? Touch & talk – how can good retail design promote customer-brand dialog?

By using a design language that moves deeply, that doesn’t just tell a brand story. People want to connect – even with a location, a place. Today’s slogan goes: “From POS to POX,” or from the store to the place of experience. What does this mean to you and are there any stores that are good at that?

Industries undergoing big changes often try to use an “experiencejourney” to stage their brands differently. This was easy to see in the automotive sector. Scandals have led to a loss of faith in recent years. And then, owning a car is becoming less

and less important for young people in the urban context. The classic car company is no longer sexy. Mercedes is charting a definite course and takes a hold of many different themes across all kinds of channels so as to get new target groups to take notice of it in new ways.

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to go shopping and how to shop, or also, our preferences for what we consider enriching or beautiful or necessary. The lines separating daily processes, such as working, living, shopping, are beginning to blur. That’s how new needs are created in public and commercial spaces.

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Shouldn’t it rather be POE – ‘Point of Entertainment’ ? Hasn’t fashion become entertainment long ago? How can good retail design entertain customers?

Of course, a store should be fun! And everything goes to make it so. I wish we’d be more relaxed about this in Germany, too. In Asia, you can find the funniest installations that are simply there, without serving any kind of purpose. Digital distribution allows for less product to displayed on the shop floor and that makes room for completely new retail concepts. I expect there’ll be some thrilling developments. Regarding entertainment. Stores put on more and more events, bringing their customers together. How does retail design have to adapt to this?

By becoming more flexible! And I don’t mean ‘more functional.’ Blurry lines and transitions need an interior design that keeps allowing for new levels of experience. Pop-up-style decors and staging may be exuberant and ephemeral here. What counts is the moment. That’s new in retail design. Thank you for this conversation.

G R E AT S TO R E D E S I G N

published by Natalie Häntze teNeues | 25 x 32 cm | Hardcover 208 pages | ca. 200 color photos Texts in English, German and French | EUR 19.90 ISBN 978-3-8327-3284-4

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The same garment is easier to find online and often cheaper than in physical stores. How do you still manage to get the customers to go into shops? “By offering services” is one recipe. “Through special staging and scene display,” say the strategy specialists, with the young event generation in mind. It isn’t so much the garment that triggers the purchase, but the way in which it is experienced. Context is king.

PUTTING ON A RETAIL SCENE B R I C K- A N D - M O R TA R S TO R E S N E E D S C E N E S A N D S TA G I N G

All images: Achim Hatzius

JAN JOSWIG BONN

As one of the most accomplished imagemakers, Dirk Bonn has over 10 years of experience creating store spaces for clients including Nike, Y3, Planet Sports, and Titolo. He mediates between an audience that’s into scene style and major brands, and to do so effectively he comes up with the perfect background. The certified carpenter started his career in the ’90s when he founded the skate shop “Firma Bonn.” He went on to conceptualize fashion shows for Bernhard Willhelm, Michalsky, and Joop! – even adding the soundtrack as DJ. The family man still wears skater shorts and a mullet haircut. That makes him look really cool, a bit like “the Dude” from The Big Lebowski, which goes a long way to recommend him. He works in his high-tech studio with a woodworking shop right next to it. It all looks a bit like a DJ co-op or commune. Dirk has exactly the kind of attitude that allows him to make the hippest pictures in terms of effective staging.

the problem: We have expanded our online presence, but are losing more and more of our core retail business. Now we’re seeing a decline in online business, because everyone is selling something online, and we keep having problems in our core business. Our shops are becoming less and less attractive. Many mid-sized retailers have shuttered their shops. Some of the smaller retailers can sometimes make it with a special product portfolio, but only if they’ve always been in the scene, or very close to it. I mainly receive inquiries from midsized and very large retailers. For Titus or Nike SB, the focus is on creating stores that don’t all look alike. Nike SB always reflects the local scene, whether it’s Zurich, Munich, Stuttgart or Berlin. Every city is different. Every city sells different products. At the Berlin store called Civilist, we recreated elements of the New National Gallery, a popular skate spot. We wanted to create a connection between Nike, an international brand, and Civilist, a local shop. For the Swiss retailer Titolo, we drew inspiration from the traditional Swiss art of paper cutting (“Scherenschnitt”), transferred that to pop art, did some digital milling and attached it to the ceiling.

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Interview with D I R K

R E TA I L D E S I G N

Retail designer and family man: Dirk Bonn.

Left page: N I K E ’ S H T M : The first project by

When did brands begin taking an interest in having special design work done for their stores?

It has increased in the last five years. The big retailers have recognized

Is it the case that the store no longer works as a neutral presentation area?

Ten years ago, you still would’ve displayed your product against a white wall. The item’s design was

the trio Hiroshi Fujiwara, Tinker Hatfield and Mark Parker. Right page on the bottom: Putting on a show: N I K E ’ S A M D 1 5 .

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enough. That’s why we had white cubes, which were very purist. This display format faded because it proliferated on the internet. Every website is a white cube. The background is a blank space that doesn’t have any image of its own on it. The click experience is a white-cube experience. What’s so special about your approach to design?

I’ve always done my work as someone in the scene. That’s been the case since my “Firma Bonn” times. I was rooted in the music scene and worked as a DJ. That’s how I cultivated my visual understanding, which comes from the street. Berlin’s world-famous Bar 25 had rooms made of wood taken from construction sites. Was that a conscious design effort or simply a product of the culture it came from? So brands are interested in being rooted in the scene?

This took on greater significance in recent years with the phrase “local connect.” For Nike or Planet Sports, we create spaces that look like they were made in the backyard of a skater’s place. Employing a very artificial approach, we took objects from the street and integrated them into a larger store context, thereby creating a link to the original scene. It doesn’t look like a white room, but like a living space that tells the same type of story the scene tells.

But you don’t beat people over the head with the scene-brand connection, do you?

No, that’s where concepts often fail. Store customers don’t want to be taken for fools. You need to take a gentle approach to guiding people through the story you’re telling, not bully and hector them, like: Oh look, here’s a real graffiti artist who painted some real graffiti on the wall! Things can really backfire if you suck up to a scene that doesn’t want such smarmy attention. You can lose a lot of meaning and brand content. That’s why my team and I get booked. We are better informed than any marketing department … … and you don’t make a fool of yourself.

There are a lot of examples from the past: Michael Reinboth as the minister for nightlife for Marlboro in the ’90s. We all thought: “How stupid!” Things like that happen from time to time. These fools want to crash a particular market, but have nothing to offer – except for their product. Our biggest strength as a studio is that we are very close to different scenes. We have a sense of whether something is going to be painful or not. Can your presentation methods kill a product?

You need to bear in mind that the danger exists. As a creator, one is always inclined to push one’s ideas forward. But there are some very

practical requirements: The customer needs to be able to move around. Lighting is impor tant. You need to see light as a kind of material. The process of walking through a space and the lighting concept work together, creating the way you see things. This is essential for shoes. No shoe is allowed to cast a shadow over the other. This happens quickly in wall presentations of shoes. Sneaker brands issue new releases weekly, even daily. So we build specific areas in the space where items can be displayed correctly because we created them by taking into account product- specific lighting requirements. You often work with hidden references to local history. Please tell us about this.

Every object has a design story to tell which reflects a certain pop-cultural context. For the Swiss company Titolo I transformed the Nike logo into something that looks like it was designed by iconic Italian designer Ettore Sottsass. That’s the game … … that no 17-year-old sneaker customer is aware of. For someone like that, it’s simply a spectacular installation.

And that’s more than enough! I take an approach to design that draws on many different sources and compounds them into an image. Regardless of the references I make, the design has one primary goal: to exhilarate us and to multiply what’s special. It has to be an amplifier for a product that’s already designed. We create islands of design. It’s like objects shown in

Right page on the top : 1 S T O G T I TO LO Z Ü R I C H

A next generation pop-up: clean, cool, modern. Right page on the bottom: Another production for N I K E at T I TO LO B A S E L .

a good exhibition – they have to communicate with one another even though one of them is made of marble, another is a digital print hanging on the wall, and right in the middle there’s a vacuum cleaner that’s been appropriated and turned into art by Jeff Koons. The way we subconsciously perceive space determines where we head within that space. I never feel the need to impose any references. That would be a kind of know-it-all attitude. How do you see the retail scene developing?

It’s time for very sharp and tight store concepts. We receive very specific inquiries to make retail stores look attractive on 80 as opposed to 1,000 square meters. Universal store fittings that can be installed all over the world haven’t stood the test of time. Retail has to be very specific in curating its own commercial identity, but be very flexible when it comes to transformation, like a mega-individualist, who puts on gothic garb today and heavy metal stuff tomorrow. Thank you for this conversation.

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Left page: Rocket science: Launching the N I K E A F 1 .

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I N S P I R AT I O N

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BOOKS

Just one of the interiors you‘ ll find in S H O P L I F T E R ! : the R E D V A L E N T I N O flagship store in London

S H O P L I F T E R ! Disrupted by online shopping, shops and brands find themselves in a permanent battle over the most innovative store concepts, striking window displays, and genius presentation of goods, to breathe new life into traditional retail trends. This creative struggle has heralded a golden era of retail design. Brand experiences now stretch far beyond the end product. The dialogue between a shop and its consumers is becoming increasingly important. Companies are tapping the talents of top designers and using them in sophisticated flagship stores or unexpected temporary venues. Shoplifter! showcases the most outstanding concepts across a number of industries, introducing the most innovative brands with rich, in-depth case studies. S H O P L I F T E R ! – N E W R E TA I L A R C H I T E C T U R E A N D B R A N D S P A C E S | 24 x 30 cm | Hardcover | 256 pages | EUR 49.90 | G E S TA LT E N B O O K S | ISBN: 978-3-89955-941-5

A P P E T I Z E R Pastel colors, hyper-realistic murals, indoor jungles, curved and luxurious couches, golden accents, and soft light. Designers, architects and restaurateurs transform a night out at a restaurant into a unique and memorable experience. An array of interiors creatively correspond with each particular menu’s offerings: flower shops that serve coffee amongst the blooms; art galleries that mix the best cocktails in town; shoe boutiques that double as dessert bars. Appetizer visits fashionable bars, tasteful eateries, cozy cafes, and many more exciting places. A P P E T I Z E R – N E W I N T E R I O R S F O R R E S TA U R A N T S A N D C A F É S | Hardcover | 24 x 30 cm | 272 pages | EUR 39.90 | G E S TA LT E N B O O K S | ISBN: 978-3-89955-930-9

L I V I N G I N S T Y L E What does a contemporary Art Deco interior look like to you? Is it glittering and cabaret-like, featuring marabou trims, sequin scales, and striking chevron stripes? Or is it elegance personified in the manner of a Marlene Dietrich trouser suit – soft and well-tailored, but accessorized dramatique? Through jewel-like furnishings that light up the room, ornate mirrors as beautiful as brooches, simple Japanese-style lighting, and bold, curvaceous furniture shapes, join design journalist Claire Bingham as she tours the most sumptuous, interiors of our time – at home, on holiday, in restaurants and bars. L I V I N G I N S T Y L E – T H E

HOM ES – TH E CLASSIC STYLE O F R A L F S C H M I T Z , E S T. 1 8 6 4 |

O R N A M E N T & FA R B E – A FA S C I N AT I O N W I T H H I S TO R I C A L PAT T E R N S A N D C O LO R S . Nothing transforms and refines interiors as reliably as an exceptionally beautiful floor. Ornament & Farbe, a book published by C A L LW E Y V E R L A G , together with the V I A company, does an exceptional job of presenting this. It reveals a fascination with historical patterns and high-quality colors, taking us on a journey of discovery – with an affectionate look back and a joyful perspective on beautiful contemporary projects. V I A has revived the terrazzo and cement mosaic slab. Traditional craftsmanship, beautiful forms and colors, and long-lasting floors with unique patinas converge here. In addition to background information on the tradition and production of cement mosaic tiles, the book is bound to inspire you with its many ideas that will help you in the decision-making process when devising modern floor-and-wall designs filled with ornamental patterns and colors. O R N A M E N T & FA R B E – D I E V I A P L AT T E – R E N A I S S A N C E E I N E S B O D E N K L A S S I K E R S |

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E XCE PTI ONAL H OM E S Timelessly beautiful urban villas and townhouses whose architecture incorporates the best of Classicism, Wilhelminian style and Art Deco: Crafted in the highest architectural style and complemented by all the comforts of today, each of these exceptionally stylish homes is situated in a prime location. The opulent book shows a variety of distinctive, newly constructed buildings from the portfolio of Ralf Schmitz as well as their sophisticated interior design. Light-flooded floor plans with harmonious room sequences skillfully fuse upscale living spaces of bygone times with modern lifestyles. E X C E P T I O N A L

BOOKS

2018 STOR E DESIGN T R E N D S Whether it’s fashion boutiques, beauty shops or concept stores – retailers not only have to offer shops with a cleverly selected, target group-specific selection of products in beautifully designed spaces, but these spaces also have to function as a backdrop for customers who enjoy photographing themselves while shopping and posting these experiences for the whole world to see on social networks. The growing importance of store design is shown in S TO R E B O O K 2 0 1 8 , which presents a selection of exemplary retail architecture. The compendium provides a comprehensive overview of all the important developments in the contemporary store design scene. S TO R E B O O K 2 0 1 8 | Cornelia Dörries | published by D LV – Netzwerk Ladenbau e.V. – Deutscher Ladenbau Verband | 26 x 28 cm | Hardcover | 248 pages | with 300 color photos and illustrations | EUR 89.00 | C A L LW E Y | ISBN: 978-37667-2347-5

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ON THE

WALL

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For decades, the old wallpaper was an absolute no go, but now it’s making a big comeback. Stores especially benefit from wallpaper, which provides an elegant solution when it’s about giving sales spaces and shop windows that special something. But caution! One wallpaper isn’t like the next!

Textile designer Veronika Aumann and illustrator Nina Sophie Gekeler share a past as students at the Berlin-Weissensee Art College as well as an enthusiasm for all things colorful.

R ALF STROTMEIER

Originally, wallpaper (Latin: tapetum) came from Asia, where kings decorated their palace walls with tapestries. In 1469, people in Germany first tried printing papers to put on the wall and so the evolution of wallpaper took its course. Initially used only by an affluent elite, wallpaper slowly over the course of centuries made its way into the homes of people with even the most modest incomes. Then, in the late 1970s, it reached the peak of its current popularity with ever more graphic and shrill, almost psychedelic patterns, until it exploded like a supernova – bang! – and subsequently fizzled. For a time, only bare, white, plastered walls were praised as the new non-plus-ultra. Right about that time, the very patterns that had previously been so very popular, vanished, to be replaced by generous, monochromatic surfaces.

This comeback of patterns in fashion has a heroine: Miuccia Prada, of Milan, who dared integrating showy wallpaper patterns from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s into her designs. And this is how our good old wallpaper came to be rehabilitated. In fact, for some time now it’s been experiencing a veritable Renaissance. Appreciated especially because of the beauty of its repetitive patterns, printed wallpaper these days has almost reclaimed its status as a luxury item the way it was before the advent of pop culture – when wallpapers provided nuanced accents, created moods, attracted the gaze. This is what makes wallpaper so exciting, especially for stores. It can demarcate certain sales areas in the store or serve as backdrop for shop windows displays. But while wallpaper in its heyday used to be a commodity for mass consumption, contemporary wallpaper is “couture” – unique and frequently personalized in response to customers’ desires and ideas.

Photo: André Wunstorf

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The jungle wallpaper fits perfectly with the idiosyncratic charm and wit of the Berlin eatery T U L U S LO T R E K .

Since 2014, PAT T E R N S T U D I O , a design studio based in Berlin, has been met with wild acclaim for its handcrafted wallpaper patterns. Every single pattern is drawn by hand, painted, watercolored, or collaged, before it is subsequently processed and repeated digitally. During the manual (analog) design process, the designers deliberately leave a lot of room for experimental and contemplative work, while, at the same time, making creative use of the digital design possibilities and deploying them with precision. This is how the fine and subtle patterns created at PAT T E R N S T U D I O come into being. Frequently, the two designers – textile designer, Veronika Aumann, and illustrator, Nina Sophie Gekeler – work in close collaboration with their clients, getting attuned to their companies so that they can develop a pattern that is unique, but also in harmony with the overall concept of the brand. The unique wallpaper patterns for shops, shop windows, showrooms, and trade fair booths can

often be repurposed for later use, for example as fabric patterns for fashion companies and lifestyle products. When we visited the studio, we were allowed to sift through hundreds of unique designs. We will present our favorites in the pages that follow. Those who like the work of the two designers and share their passion for all that is colorful, for order and chaos, for everything handmade, for intuitive or deliberate patterns – all those should definitely visit their PA N O R A M A B E R L I N booth and allow themselves to be charmed and carried away.

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STAND 2.24

PLEATED WIDE PANTS

alberto-pants.com

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IT WORKS V E LO C O U T U R E

Pedals, chain, and leg muscle? Ordinary two-wheelers are a thing of the past. Bikes made it to the level of lifestyle statement some time ago. S C H W I T Z K E & P A R T N E R , one of the biggest architecture and retail design firms in Germany, is now entering the bike market with its A W S U M line.

N I C O L E U R B S C H AT

created the brand and retail concepts for Tommy Hilfiger, Topshop, Media Markt and Esprit. Now they have developed their own e-bike series, A W S U M (literally “awseome”), and opened their first store in April in Düsseldorf.

Biking is as popular as ever. Germans own 73 million bicycles – from simple bikes to e-bikes and luxury models. Bikes don’t make any noise or stink and they don’t need a parking space. They give us a sense of freedom, and more and more people hop in the saddle every day. Bikes are just the faster, greener and healthier alternative – especially in car-congested city centers.

In the district of Flingern, their shop recalls a boutique more than a classic bicycle shop and impressively demonstrates that bicycles are becoming more and more of a status symbol; that people are picking them out as if they were a fashion accessory: The design needs to look good and the bikes need to match the owner’s style. In addition to the core selection of bicycles and e-bikes, there’s an adjoining workshop as well as a lot of accessories for urban mobility.

But for some time bicycles haven’t just been a cheap mobility solution, but a “Ferrari for the city.” A prestige and lifestyle object whose high-tech features, high-end components, modern design and distinct appearance attract admiring glances; that hangs on the wall in people’s homes as if it weren’t just a mundane means of transport, but a rare, valuable work of art.

These include rain capes from England, hip helmets by a French company, handsewn backpacks and textile bicycle locks, which aren’t just supposed to be more secure, but also much more lightweight than conventional locks. The Schwitzke brothers can even envisage soon adding cosmetics and a café to this lifestyle-oriented cycling shop – all to make urban cycling life even more enjoyable.

What’s especially hip at the moment? E-bikes. The bicycle with batterypowered pedal assistance already accounts for 19 percent of the market. While it was initially mainly seniors, today people in their mid-twenties also enjoy the electric pedal support. According to manufacturers, e-bikes are the only trend to ever jump from an older segment of the population to younger groups. Electric bicycles are fast, healthy, make it possible for everyone to travel long distances, and ensure that no one has to arrive at the office sweaty anymore. For five-to-ten-kilometer routes, they are considered the fastest means of transport, so it isn’t surprising that their popularity is only increasing.

Incidentally, the bikes are hung above each other on the wall, creating a homey type of impression and giving them a nice spot where they really shine – and a bicycle hanging on the wall waiting for the next ride is decorative anyway.

Karl and Klaus Schwitzke are also convinced that e-bikes are the thing of the future. The Schwitzkes made a name for themselves as a creative think tank behind brand and retail concepts. For almost 30 years, the brothers have run a group of companies, the S C H W I T Z K E G R O U P , and have been successful in the retail business; they

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TURNING YOUR

CUSTOMERS INTO YOUR

FRIENDS! F R O M P O S TO P O R W I T H C U L I N A RY C O N C E P TS

by R A L F S T R O T M E I E R Today, nobody needs to leave the house anymore to buy something or book a trip. Getting to know one another, making new acquaintances: These are things we can easily do now with our keyboards, meaning in the virtual world. But virtual communication also promotes a strong counter-trend: the longing for authentic and real experience, for social interaction and personal contact, and for places where this can happen – in short: for a third space. This third space – which is neither your home (first space) nor your workplace (second space) –can be a lot of things: why not a fashion retail shop? Ultimately, this longing for a space to meet like-minded people (an effect of society’s tribalization) is the key to success when it comes to staging events. In retail, events have become a familiar tool that works well when done right. It’s clear that fashion retail shops have the potential to serve as a gathering spot where strangers can become friends or, literally: customers. Still, we don’t want to forget that this is about making a sale, that is, selling products! When we talk about a space where people gather in a fashion retail

Vitamins and more! The F R O O T E R S counter at Henschel in Darmstadt.

shop, we’re not talking about that spinning rack in the back, third in a row to the right. No! We’re talking about an area dedicated to social interaction, a haven of peace where people can relax their pace. This can be a bar, a cafe or a restaurant. But not every retailer has the potential or the resources to offer Michelin-starred cuisine. This is where F R O O T E R S comes into play. – the market leader in frozen yogurt – serves fresh-pressed juices, smoothies, and sinfully delicious ice cream, catering to the current healthy, sustainable lifestyle trend. The products

F R O OT E R S

are all freshly prepared with ingredients from regional cultivation and sustainable agriculture. A well-stocked toppings buffet invites customers to add their own touch to the yoghurt from the machine. It’s clear that F R O O T E R S works as a stand-alone store. But the man who invented F R O O T E R S , Christian Kötterheinrich, is the one who knows that it works perfectly in fashion retail stores, such as Hagemeyer Minden, Henschel in Darmstadt, Sporthaus Reischmann in Kempten or CJ Husum. Kötterheinrich, himself a fashion professional, learned the business from the ground up. Initially a salesperson, he then became a buyer and finally a consultant. So he developed the successful culinary concept based on his understanding of the needs and conditions of the fashion retail trade. In addition to the products, he also supplies the technology – an area in which store fitters and store designers, who are specialized in fashion retail, often fail. What is more, Kötterheinrich has another ace up his sleeve: P I C K N I C K . If you would like to learn more, just visit Christian Kötterheinrich and his team at the F R O O T E R S booth in the new R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S area in H A L L 6 .

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If you thought we’d reached the end of the road with POX – the Point of Experience – then you’re wrong. Big time! The new megatrend is: from Point of Sale to Point of Relation. In short: To third space.

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PRETTY

PICKY! The search for products that tell stories

S E L E K T E U R – the store’s name reflects the company’s philosophy: The store sells high-end items with character instead of soulless articles made for the throw-away society. In addition to women’s and men’s fashion, you’ll also find accessories, books, stationery and furnishings. At S E L E K T E U R , timelessness and authenticity are the top priority for the entire product range. The focus is clearly on traditional European brands and products made by very established companies. We spoke with the owner Felix Staudinger about his recipe for success.

If you select your products too carefully, don’t you quickly run the risk of only appealing to a small target group?

stands for our aesthetics, our standards and our discretion. We have a very good team of people who pick up on what’s inspiring, who do a lot of research and get excited about products with substance. Of course, there’s always room for external influences – from customers, partners and friends. But essentially, our concept is what makes the store what it is. The assortment is quite varied. So we have something to offer for a broad range of tastes, but we can’t do justice to every SELEKTEUR

The underlying thread: The way merchandise is made plays a major role for all products at S E L E K T E U R . Pictured on the right: Owner Felix Staudinger.

customer – because that’s not the point. We want to say: Life is awesome – don’t buy crap. Who is your typical customer?

The typical S E L E K T E U R customer has certain aesthetic standards, appreciates that something special, and is looking for products that tell stories. There are also, of course, customers who are looking for a meaningful gift that will bring long-term enjoyment. They don’t want to buy poorly made products or products made under the wrong conditions. Perusing SELEKTEUR online you can’t help but notice that the store doesn’t overwhelm you with products. Is the company deliberately setting itself apart from the well-known e-commerce giants?

The selection in our online shop is just a section of what we sell. It’s there to convey a sense of our concept, which is to sell good products in an appealing environment – both online in a tidy shop and on location in a physical shop that’s pleasant to visit and personalized. However, we clearly focus on personal interaction in the shop. Customers who visit our online

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Interview A N D R E S D A M M with Selekteur owner F E L I X S T A U D I N G E R

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shop know S E L E K T E U R and like the concept, but don’t have the opportunity to visit us regularly. Since many products are part of our permanent selection, customers can access these products online. How important is the location for physical retail shops today? Is it still crucial to attract as many walk-in customers as possible, or are concept stores increasingly becoming destinations in their own right, which can survive in areas that didn’t used to be important for business?

Location is always important for retailers. It’s not necessarily about having that prime real estate spot; rather, it’s about getting a site that suits the concept. This was the case for us in Düsseldorf-Carlstadt. The shop blends in perfectly with its charming surroundings, which are historic, urban and yet picturesque. When we were looking for a suitable shop, the neighborhood was a very

important factor for us, so we could set up our idea in the right environment and communicate our concept authentically. Does “nonfashion” help boost a store’s image, since the notion of a concept store is associated with higher quality?

We don’t see ourselves as a concept store in the classic sense – even though there’s obviously a concept behind S E L E K T E U R and 65 percent of our revenues come from nonfashion. We see ourselves more as a provider of all kinds of goods. Good, honest, aesthetic products that enrich our lives and can be enjoyed for a long time. You can certainly set up a selection of nonfashion products in such a way that customers associate a store with higher quality. But, like anywhere else, it is essential to choose products with the right level of quality. A concept store is not a free ticket.

A deluxe shoe shine kit: A clear statement against a throwaway society – S E L E K T E U R doesn’t just sell high-quality products, but also the companion care items to extend their lifetime.

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Clear, sophisticated, reduced, warm. With lots of wood and indirect lighting, the store’s interior design reflects its philosophy.

How important are classics in your opinion, and how important are ultra hip products?

The goal of S E L E K T E U R is to sell products that don’t fall into disuse after just one season, because they aren’t the hottest trend item any more. That’s why classics are very important to us, because they are synonymous with sustainability and style. Trend products can inject some color into the product world if they meet certain standards. We need to like the products and they need to be made in production facilities that use proper, verifiable methods.

In your opinion, what is the role of the salesperson in the retail sector, and how involved is the sales staff in the philosophy of the store at SELEKTEUR?

We are fortunate that the store’s concept has brought in the right people, who carry on our DNA. Our employees are real “truffle pigs” when it comes to looking for new brands and products, which are then tested thoroughly before they find their way into the store. Fortunately, the small size of our team means it’s easy for us to stay closely in touch and to discuss things honestly – all without losing sight of S E L E K T E U R ’s philosophy and the needs of our customers.

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LEAGUE OF GENTLEMEN

Off to the kitchen! Black cast-iron pots and casserole dishes: Men who are into aesthetics will thoroughly enjoy cooking with cookware like this.

ANDRES DAMM

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In 1984, Herbert Grönemeyer movingly sang, “When is a man a man?” These days you can still really argue about this question. While there is no ultimate answer, D A S H E R R E N G U T, a concept store in Gießen, comes very close to selling “toys for the perfect man” – and not in the sense of any Playboy clichés. We went to Gießen to visit this small paradise for men.

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Hard to miss: The owners’ passion for grilling is omnipresent at D A S H E R R E N G U T . From special cookbooks to designer BBQ tongs, you’ ll find everything your heart desires.

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An exceptional address for upscale menswear, the store at 38 Seltersweg has made a name for itself far beyond Giessen’s city limits. This is where Köhler, a traditional men’s store, is located. The store sells established brands such as Barbour, Hugo Boss and Van Laack. Whether it’s a business suit or distinguished leisure look, this is where men find the right outfit. Hidden in the basement of the handsome Art Nouveau building, there’s a very special gem: H E R R E N G U T which is run independently by Daniela and Michael Riehl. The 180-square-meter shop inside a shop, which further includes a traditional barbershop, is a true Mecca for the stylish man. Such

distinction is due in no small part to the couple that owns it: You can’t help but immediately notice how passionate they are about what they do and sell. “We don’t just sell products – we sell a way of life,” says Daniela Riehl, describing the philosophy fueling H E R R E N G U T . “If you want to be authentic, you shouldn’t at all try to reach too many people. To be credible, you need to draw a clear line.” In other words: class, not mass (production)! Daniela Riehl is mainly in charge of purchasing, but her employees also help out. The salespeople all act as scouts and are always on the lookout for special items that could enrich H E R R E N G U T ’s

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assortment. “When we’re at trade fairs, we’re all in constant touch via Messenger, to immediately show each other exciting discoveries and to discuss whether this or that product should be ordered right away.” The store’s employees are all clearly part of H E R R E N G U T ’s target group and enjoy items that are special. At the same time, they are all given the freedom to add their own personal touch. Barbecuing is a special focus and passion at H E R R E N G U T . The store’s products include merchandise by the luxury brand Napoleon, quasi the Rolls-Royce of charcoal grills. You’ll also find a handful

of practical BBQ accessories and some that are just plain fun, such as a cushioned base that turns a standard beer box into a handy stool with integrated bottle cap opener, or reusable bottle caps that look like dart boards. Although a platinum-porcelain luxury BBQ grill easily hits EUR 3,000 mark, the following is important to Riehl when she goes on order tours: that H E R R G U T is and remains accessible to every man and not just to the “top few percent.” “You’ll also find gifts for EUR 20 here, giving people no reason to not enter the shop.” This price range begins with

The store’s special events are also a really unique feature. “With BBQ cooking classes, gin-tasting events, and an introduction to the world of craft beers, we bring the products we sell to life.” This clever concept has two advantages: If you’re having last-minute doubts about buying a high-end grill, you can try out the specific grill and see for yourself. For regular customers, this type ofengagement only strengthens the customer loyalty bond, and women enjoy buying the tickets as gift certificates for male friends. But even a store like H E R R E N G U T that focuses so much on haptic experiences wouldn’t be able to get by without an online presence. “We use social media – especially Instagram – to stay in touch

A love of things vintage: Craft beer, rare gins, and decorative objects from bygone days give H E R R E N G U T its nostalgic aura.

It is obvious that H E R R E N G U T targets people who appreciate the finer things in life. Owner Daniela Riehl is very open about the fact that every single product sold in H E R R E N G U T is a luxury item. “No one needs the products we sell,” she says. “It’s about treating

yourself to something special. That’s why it was important to us that the store’s atmosphere and design reflect a certain luxury: H E R R E N G U T should be approachable, but still embody a certain elegance and not just look like a place to pick up fun stuff.” It’s clear that this mission has succeeded. Lots of wood, matte black steel, and the various vintage-looking products give the store an aura of tradition and class.

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with our customers and to keep them up to date. However, the overall experience is important to us – online and in the store.” Since customers can’t touch anything when surfing the internet, HERRENGUT uses only beautiful, well-curated images to breathe life and character into its products.

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unusual spirits which are also sold in the concept store. The main focus is on gin: You’ll find over 30 different types of gin from all over the world. Of course, you’ll also find the gentleman’s drink par excellence, whiskey, in all sorts of varieties. The store also sells elegant matching accessories such as crystal tumblers, flasks with funny messages, or aroma sets for special cocktail creations.

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D I G I TA L S TO R E A S S I S TA N T

ALBERTO BUZZ

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Now that A L E X A has already cut a good figure for herself as an intelligent store technology at the A L B E R T O Concept Store, she’s been invited to accompany A L B E R T O on field trips: The voice-controlled interaction system assists customer managers when they facilitate onsite trainings on store sales floors. A L E X A ’s presence makes the POS training programs more fun and not only introduces a charming touch to the procedure, but also expedites the learning process. After all, nobody can ignore this smart assistant. A L E X A has been A L B E R TO team for

a member of the a little over a year. She communicates with shoppers as the digital assistant at the Concept Store in Mönchengladbach. She answers questions and provides information. For instance, on collections, styles and fits. The partnership has proven to be more than successful. It is turning the shopping experience into an interactive and emotional one. Thanks to A L E X A , POS training programs have evolved into quite an experience as well. The voice-controlled software, housed in cylinder-shaped A M A Z O N E C H O S P E A K E R S , hosts part of the course and adds an exciting level: A L E X A poses questions and the training participants – in-store A L B E R TO specialists – answer. To interact with the tool, the participants receive so-called

buzzers (A M A Z O N E C H O B U T TO N S ). Anyone who believes to be the first to have the correct answer, presses the button. A L E X A promptly responds with “correct” or “wrong.” Moreover, she presents some related background information right away. Hence, the digital assistant literally assumes the role of an A L B E R TO “school” mate. Initial tests of this teaching method revealed very promising results. Interactive learning teaches participants in a playful manner. This is very effective, since working and communicating with the groundbreaking technology boosts the participants’ level of interest and attention. A L B E R TO facilitates training programs regularly to turn retailers and sales associates into true A L B E R TO specialists. As a result, they always have com-

plete insights into the new collections, products and the brand as such. And, last but not least, thanks to A L E X A , they are also perfectly entertained. In early 2017, the A L B E R TO Concept Store was the first retail store in Germany that used this voice-controlled technology. Since then, SMART pants know-how and SMART voice-to-voice technology have been working handin-hand. Effective immediately, they’ll also be teaching as partners. The concept and realization of the A L E X A skills were implemented by the three-2one agency in Krefeld, Germany.

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IT’S NOT ABOUT THE WEATHER Back then, it was the weather. Today, it’s the internet. When fewer and fewer customers are frequenting stores and the cash registers prove it, it’s no longer the fault of the weather – at least not single-handedly so – but rather the fault of Bezos. Online competition, especially by Amazon, presents a diffuse kind of menace for brick-and-mortar stores – though its effects are very real indeed. And not unlike the weather, we can’t do anything to change it – we can only adapt. How big is e-commerce retail today? How strong is its growth and how big a share of the market will it claim in the future? Such questions are hotly debated by concerned stakeholders. According to the 2018 Online-Monitor published just a few weeks ago by Handelsverband HDE (the German Retail Federation), the market share of e-commerce retail sales has more than doubled since 2010.Today, it clocks in at 9.5 percent. In 2017, internet retail sales grew by double-digits – rising 10.5 percent or by EUR 4.7 billion to a total of EUR 48.9 billion. HDE expects this dynamic trend to continue through 2018. For now, there’s no market saturation in sight. As is well known, fashion is a favorite in

online retail. In 2017, EUR 12.3 billion worth of clothes and shoes were bought over the internet. Every fourth euro spent on clothes was spent online. While brick-and-mortar fashion retail sales incurred losses to the tune of 1.5 percent last year, the online channel grew by 10.5 percent. Amazon showed the strongest growth trend. The US giant was able to increase its online sales by EUR 1.1 billion and its Marketplace business by EUR 2.1 billion. In 2017, 46 percent (or almost half of all online sales in Germany) went to Amazon (including Marketplace). On the whole, though, brick-and-mortar stores are likewise catching up on internet retailing – and they are building market share. As for fashion, original brick-andmortar retailers captured 25.3 percent of market share while pure players seized 27.4 percent, according to the HDE. Every third euro spent online (34 percent) ends up in the coffers of mailorder companies, while an admirable 13.4 percent went to the industry’s direct-to-consumer online sales. By the way, online competition is not just an issue for medium-size, multilabel retailers. Rapid-growth players like Boohoo, Asos or Zalando are also putting the screws on chain retailers such as

H&M and Zara. Pure players are simply much faster and less encumbered than those vertical retailers who have been shaking up the fashion market for the past 20 years. They force the vertical marketing system with its franchises to adopt a complex and costly omnichannel structure. However, an increase in the number of distribution channels does not equal an increase in sales. Operating costs, though, will definitely rise. Furthermore: A brand has to deliver a convincing performance in every channel. This is already pretty tough for brickand-mortar stores. And Amazon is the online benchmark. Such tall orders can drive someone like Fritz Knapp, owner of the New Yorker stores, to the sobering realization that ‘a cobbler should stick to his shoe lasts.’ On the other hand, though, it is true that we should recognize the opportunities potentially provided by multichannel marketing. That an online pure player like Alibaba spent some $8 billion on brick-and-mortar stores in the past two years demonstrates that even in this new world we still have faith in omnichannel marketing. Even Amazon with Whole Foods and Zalando with Kickz have opened up physical retail locations. Startups like MyMuesli or Mr. Spex

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Jürgen Müller is the author of P R O FA S H I O N A L S , which, with over 8,000 subscribers, is the leading German-language fashion business blog. Müller worked for T E X T I LW I R T S C H A F T , for over 20 years, lastly as editor-in-chief. Today, with his HR consulting firm S U I T S ., he fills top positions in the fashion and lifestyle business.

even had to realize that their business models barely took off online. In principle, established brick-andmortar stores have an advantage compared to their online aggressors – if they successfully intensify and expand their existing relationships with customers through new technologies: by intelligently collecting in-store data and using it. And by making channels transparent and using networked processes, e.g., when managing inventory. These are the issues that need to be worked on tremendously in the coming years. The industry has barely mastered verticalization. Now it has to bear the brunt of digitalization. AI-facilitated customer interactions provide a huge competitive advantage to online retail. In the age of the quaint old general store, none of this was an issue. The shopkeepers back then knew all their customers by name and gave them personalized customer service when addressing them or selling them goods. But as commerce drove the

creation of franchises, this relationship with customers was lost or had to be bought back again at great cost to the marketing budget. Traditionally quite strong in Germany, mail-order businesses even in the old days had more customer data than brick-and-mortar stores. But they lacked the interactive media and technology to make real good use of big data. In part due to this lack, they were not able to seize more than a certain market share. Zalando and Amazon are likewise currently in the process of resurrecting the old shopkeeper – but digitally. And this shopkeeper now knows more than ever before! As a result, [mail-order king] Otto & Co. is put under pressure to make a move just as much as any brick-and-mortar store. These latter ones will lose the fight for customer data unless they’re able to set up a successful online business and to make use of the data collected from this business for all of its channels. To acquire the necessary know-how for such a venture requires investments that only the big stores with lots of capital can muster. Where in this scenario is there any space for traditional retailers? They have the advantage that they are precisely not a website. Instead of betting on artificial intelligence, they can use emotional intelligence. And they can set the stage for human encounters in their stores. This is why now, more than before, it is crucial to recruit high-caliber associates – among other factors. This is certainly easier in smaller, local organizations than franchise systems. Incidentally, it is necessary to use all available and sensible tools offered by digitalization, now and in the future. Still, we should not fool ourselves. Consumers will often prefer the more comfortable and less expensive online ordering method. The market is currently in the throes of rapid redistribution. Everyone has to find their own way to reply to this challenge. To use a cliché for a change: It is necessary to strengthen one’s own strengths.

L A B E L S T O W AT C H

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Re:Designed Quality is the focus of the Danish bag label R E : D E S I G N E D . Inspired by everyday life, every design has to meet high standards in quality, functionality and usefulness. All materials for the purses, shoulder bags or shoppers are hand-picked and made by hand. Combining high quality, functionality and timeless Scandinavian elegance, R E : D E S I G N E D creates accessories that make every stylish woman feel unique.

The Dutch label is enjoying increasing popularity. Minus any type of complex story or strategy, J A N E L U S H K A is driven by the zeitgeist, has a spirit of curiosity and follows its own instincts: ambitious, innovative and progressive. For urban women who are independent, informed and inspired â&#x20AC;&#x201C; always on the move, always open to new ideas. True to the motto: Feel good about yourself, shine, make yourself and others happy!

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Jane Lushka

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

U c o n A c ro b a t i c s Using sophisticated production methods, unique technical know-how, and with a clear focus on making the best-possible product, the Berlin label has stood for quality, innovation, creativity and production under fair conditions since 2001. U C O N A C R O B AT I C S is about minimalism, innovation and functionality â&#x20AC;&#x201C; products that are fun, make everyday life easier, and at the same time look good. U C O N A C R O B AT I C S targets a new generation of creative consumers who value functional, innovative products.

With his collections, which are a reinterpretation of elegance and a skillful mix of coolness and color, D A W I D TO M A S Z E W S K I is one of the most famous designers in the fashion capital of Berlin. Founded in 2009, the premium brand now takes its next big step: In cooperation with the young, successful accessory label S T U F F M A K E R , it launches a handbag in its iconic Bauhaus style. S T U F F M A K E R , known for its cool, shimmering bags, contributes a limited-edition reversible bag to this unique cooperation, whose camo print has been reinterpreted by D A W I D TO M A S Z E W S K I .

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Stuff Maker

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Vicolo The Italian fast-fashion label stands for extremely fashionable, unconventional creations that reflect a demanding, cosmopolitan lifestyle. Ideal for dynamic women who love to combine different styles that suit every occasion. Each outfit is the result of an ongoing dynamic experimentation with colors, fabrics and models â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fashion that perfectly reflects its wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style. Innovative design, exclusivity and 100 percent made in Italy.

Anna Rojahn, curator of the R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S conference program and consultant for digital transformation.

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R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S

RETAIL SOLUTIONS by A N N A

ROJAHN

With the new Retail Solutions area, PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

is shining a spotlight on retail and presenting concrete solutions that bestow real added value on retail.

The break-neck pace of digital developments puts both retailers and brands under a lot of pressure: What measures are timely and promise an actual return on investment? Are players like Amazon and Zalando friend or foe? What are the rules of the game that lead to victory or defeat on an uncertain terrain?

The mood at this time is a mixture of frustration and resignation: Many brands and retailers can’t shake the feeling that “the train has left the station.” But that’s jumping the gun, since they’re undervaluing the potential and advantage of having a classic presence. Because even though digitalization undoubtedly puts pressure on brickand-mortar retailers, it also presents big opportunities: It’s not for nothing that more and more online pure players are experimenting with offline and pop-up formats. No one gets closer to customers than actual localized retail stores. Retail Solutions sheds light on this issue and takes a look through the eyes of retail to explore the changes brought about by digitalization. In the R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S H A L L and also its accompanying conference program, R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S S H O W C A S E S a comprehensive range of custom concepts that

are ready for use: When it comes to lighting and sales space construction, music, food and payment systems, even merchandise management – Retail Solutions always focuses on practical strategies that benefit retail. It’s true, e-commerce is often miles ahead when it comes to ease of purchase: It offers openness, transparency and efficiency. But when it comes to eliciting emotions, there’s nothing better than direct, human interaction. It’s a challenge to mistake neither sales staff nor customers for statistics: The human touch and emotions in real, localized stores is unbeatable when the goal is to inspire customers and to have that experience last. The use of technology cannot and should not become an end in itself. Rather, it should always be used only where it can create a definite added value. That’s why PA N O R A M A B E R L I N R E TA I L S O LUTI O N S presents solid, ready-foruse solutions. And it presents these in the comprehensive context that moves the industry – moves it forward: from POS to POX, the Point of Experience.

is an IT specialist that provides companies with support when it comes to digital transformation. The company stands for high technical understanding, industry know-how and a clear focus on customer needs. Employees work as a team to develop innovative IT solutions, bring their customers into the cloud, integrate digital processes, and are responsible for the operation and support of IT systems. A R V ATO specializes in helping fashion and lifestyle companies step into the digital future. A R V ATO S Y S T E M S

WOR K WITHOUT STRESS WITH MAILBUTLER has developed an app that makes e-mail traffic and workflow more efficient for users. It includes tools that boost productivity and increase the work-life balance: It can manage tasks; it has the settings for “send later” and “sleep”; it can create notes, use a lot of templates and much more. It also brings teams together: With the Business Team feature, tasks can be delegated and distributed and notes exchanged. MAILBUTLER

WEDO SALES – STOR E OF TH E FUTURE Store of the future: Do you also wonder how to bring your store or your brand digitally into the future? W E D O S A L E S develops and designs the type of retail experience you want your customers to experience. The company provides long-term support on the topic of ‘software, content and B2C communication.’ For several years, W E D O S A L E S has successfully supported many large national and international brands and retailers in retail concepts, shop-floor digitization, consulting, content creation, trainings, and other areas in omnichannel and digital retail management. The company is presenting some exciting solutions live at the trade fair. From the retail aspect to the content concept and sustainable content maintenance, W E D O S A L E S can accompany you and provide comprehensive guidance.

PENTHER MANNEQUINS 3D hybrid sculpturing: Nowadays, the ideal final product inspection no longer has to be entirely analogue. 3D scans, 3D modeling and 3D printing are highly professional and far cheaper methods for creating prototypes and visual concepts. “Computer-generated mannequins” save time and money – from the sketch to the visualization and the actual printing. The 3D hybrid sculpturing concept combines traditional crafts with new digital 3D methods to achieve the best results. 3D prototyping made in Germany – by pentherformes.

YE LLOWMAP S HOWS CUSTOM E R S T H E W AY Y E L L O W M A P G E O S O L U T I O N S is a specialist in map-based geodata systems and ensures that customers get to their destination quickly and safely. It offers high-quality cloudbased branch finders and geodata applications. At PAN O RAMA B E R LI N it presents solutions for ‘click & collect,’ maps, and branch search. The company’s aim is to support its customers from the first mockup to running the finished solutions – all with know-how and highly flexible technology. Y E L L O W M A P G E O S O L U T I O N S is the market leader in Germany when it comes to branch finder technologies.

A TRUE R E TA I L A P P S M A R T. + A P P is the name of the app by H U T T E R & U N G E R , a company

that knows exactly how retailers and consumers tick. The app is used to cultivate regular customers or as a loyalty card app. It has a modular structure and, in addition to the basic module, contains the following modules: News, Digital Customer Card, Coupons, Invitations, Digital Receipts, Review Purchases, and Personal Shopping. Retailers can save on ongoing marketing costs in a targeted manner and reduce staff costs by automating marketing campaigns and digitally tracking new customers.

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A R VAT O DIGITIZES FA S H I O N C O M PA N I E S

R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S

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R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S

D I G I T I Z AT I O N I N FA S H I O N R E TA I L : SECURING NEW REVENUE POTE NTIAL CONTENT M A R K E T I N G AT THE HIGHEST LEVEL is a state-of-theart, digital newsroom system. A team works at the “super desk”: Comprised of fashion journalists, specialized editors, online editors, as well as experienced retail and PR specialists, the team develops tailor-made content concepts for customers. The focus is on the content’s added value for the brand’s customers and on the new or further development of all communication channels. Customers are relieved of the task of complex content management, which is handled by S U P E R D E S K ’s editors who bring the content to target groups and attract new target groups. THE SUPERDESK

connects people with fashion and brands. Specialized in all personnel strategy issues in the fashion and lifestyle industry, S TA F F S O L U T I O N S strives to optimally represent brands by providing the appropriate personnel. Enthusiasm and expertise are the keys to success – there’s no doubt about that. The company’s core competencies include consulting, training, personnel leasing and recruiting. The fusion of high tech and high touch at the POS leads to emotional sales experiences with high product availability.

S TA F F S O L U T I O N S

HAZENKAMP S TA N D S F O R QUALITY FURNITURE I N R E TA I L is a wholesale company which sells furniture, home accessories and home decoration. The company manufactures its furniture in its own factories in Europe. It also specializes in the retail sector – and offers complete shop concepts that create attractive, inviting atmospheres. Product racks, presentation cabinets and accessories are a big part of the collection. With its own furniture factories, H A Z E N K A M P F U R N I T U R E S specializes in fulfilling all requests individually according to the customer’s requests. HAZENKAMP FURNITURES

SHOPLINE S TA N D S F O R C R E AT I V E SHOPFITTING

BEEKEEPER: THE CENTRAL E M P L OY E E P L AT F O R M is a certified employee app that helps digitize the retail workplace. Their mission is to connect those who were previously largely excluded from internal communication in a company, since the app makes employees across locations and departments reachable in real time and integrates existing IT systems and communication channels on a secure platform. The smart dashboard helps employees make better decisions and optimizes processes. BEEKEEPER

With 25 years of shopfitting experience, S H O P L I N E L A D E N B A U has developed into a professional manufacturer of custom display systems and shopfittings. The display system offers customers easy-to-install, standardized accessories. S H O P L I N E L A D E N B A U offers various types of shopfitting decor for all customer groups. Design and manufacturing always come from the same house, which saves customers time and money.

FA S H I O N C L O U D CON N ECTS T H E FA S H I O N BUSINESS The following is essential for the future of the wholesale community: that all participants be able to easily work together. FAS H I O N C LO U D – Europe’s leading platform, where brands and retailers can network, exchange content and do business – is working on this. It started with a platform to exchange marketing materials and product data. In 2017, it was followed by the Endless Aisle and the Clara app, which salespeople can use to reorder missing articles directly on the sales floor. The company from Hamburg wants to make the processes between fashion brands and retailers more efficient.

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R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S

THE NICEST SIDELINE IN THE WORLD?

SHOPPING Even if e-commerce keeps expanding, shopping on the internet is not the same as the shopping experience and personalized advice you get at a real fashion shop. And that’s where A C T ’ O - S O F T comes in. The company has developed a modern payment solution that allows sellers to make the sales process as efficient as possible. The time gained by using this fix is then invested in providing customer service. Only if customer service works well and all components of the sales process function without a hitch will customers feel good. For 20 years now, A C T ’ O - S O F T , a specialist in payment systems, has

contributed to the creation of these good feelings. The company developed a suite of applications called A C T ’ O C A S H , which provides for a unique user experience and features total process integration. It covers all branch-storeprocesses and connects branch stores with specialty departments, central systems and e-commerce. It gives retailers the opportunity to modernize processes at their sales locations. This payment solution can integrate various [payment] channels; it allows for effortless management of customer data, orders and returns; and it is easy to use – to list just a few of the features.

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R E TA I L S O L U T I O N S

DIGITALIZATION AS

OPPORTUNITY FOR FASHION BUYERS

Digital showrooms, walk-in webshops, digitalization and multichannel retailing: These are all keywords that M O B I M E D I A A G deals with extensively. An expert in CRM solutions in the B2B consumer goods sector, the company has one goal: to transform shops into walk-in webshops. For over 30 years, M O B I M E D I A A G has stood for efficient pre-ordering in the fashion industry. Sports apparel market leaders, purchasing associations and leading retail organizations rely on the company when it comes to planning and handling the merchandise supply process. To date, the market on the whole hasn’t paid much attention to the topic of digital showrooms for pre-orders. rightly points out that pre-ordering is expensive for manufacturers and retailers, because in addition to the time-intensive nature of travel and order placement, sample collections and showrooms incur substantial costs. MOB I M E DIA AG

For that reason, the company based in Pfarrkirchen, Germany, would like to

seize on digitalization as an opportunity and put it into action.

To place an order, sales reps or retailers just click on the product in the brochure.

T H E C O M PA N Y ’ S M O T TO : W E S E L L FA S H I O N P R O G R A M S A N D S TO R I E S – N O T J U S T P R O D U CTS!

F R O M S EAS O NAL TO P R O G R A M - B A S E D FA S H I O N R E TA I L

“Quintet” is the company’s latest software. It digitalizes products, not to replace actual product samples, but to add to them on the level of communication. It creates digital workbooks that holistically present a fashion program, a sales event, a campaign, and a color theme. Products, marketing, technology, merchandising, a lookbook, examples of possible applications, and variants are compiled in an intelligent, interactive digital brochure. MOBIMEDIA

In business, the revenues need to be right – always and everywhere. To encourage customers to buy things, new incentives constantly need to be created – regardless of seasons. Does this mean that the industry should consider parting with the seasonal model? After all, customers these days need to experience thrills on a weekly basis. For M O B I M E D I A one thing is certain: The fashion industry needs new wind in its sails!

I N D U S T R YSPECIFIC S OFTWAR E SOLUTIONS FROM A SINGLE SOURCE is a specialist in merchandise management systems. For over 30 years, it has been developing software solutions for industry, wholesale and retail, integrating brick-andmortar retail with online retail with its mobile solutions and e-commerce concepts. The products feature comprehensive merchandise management; intelligent POS solutions are perfectly coordinated, can be used by companies of all sizes, customizable, flexible, efficient, powerful and easy to use. H I LT E S

DECK5 INTRODUCES ITSELF With a staff of product designers, graphic designers, web designers, photographers, architects and draftsmen, the D E C K 5 team designs, develops and implements projects in the areas of product design, communication design and interior design. With a view to what’s essential, they develop designs for intelligent products with a high aesthetic standard. In addition, D E C K 5 stages brands and creates experiential spaces that ensure a successful brand appearance: store design, trade fair appearances, and presentation systems.

TH E STOR E OF THE FUTURE BECOMES A C R E AT I V E L I V I N G S PA C E Berlin-based S Y S - P R O is specialized in IT solutions for building, logistics and trade companies. It developed the “smart fitting suite” for brickand-mortar fashion retail, which combines long-term retail project experience with technologies and applications from no-line commerce – a solution that will be decisive for the future of retail. In an increasingly virtual world, it is becoming more and more important to offer customers real shopping experiences that are also emotional.

AU RACLE SOUND: TH E PE R FECT P L AY L I S T F O R YO U R BUSINESS is a music streaming service targeted at the fashion retail business. The Berlin-based company offers access to a large selection of tailor-made playlists from more than 30 music channels and bundles processes such as business licensing, target group optimization and time-controlled music planning in an online solution. After registering on auraclesound.de, the music program can be tested immediately for free using the A U R A C L E S O U N D web player or the corresponding Android/iOS apps. AU RACLE SOU N D

KINO-MO: THE N EXT B IG TH I NG Ltd is a UK-based company specializing in the development of high-tech visual solutions. H Y P E R V S N ™ is the name of its product that lets you create, manage and play unique 3D video content with holographic effects. In early 2017, the British launched it - since then they have won several prizes and awards. H Y P E R V S N ™ lets you project high-resolution 3D video or holograms into a room – a leader in the visual solutions market. KI NO-MO

FA S H I O N PHOTOG RAPHY IS EASIER THAN EVER S T Y L E S H O OT S – these are innovative imaging solutions for e-commerce. The company started in 2011 with the launch of ST Y L E S H O OTS H O R I Z O N TA L : a machine that combines a whole product photography studio in one. Later, it developed software that removes the background of the shot automatically. In 2014, the company launched S T Y L E S H O OT S V E R T I C A L : another “all-in-one” photo machine that is designed to be used with modular mannequins to get packshots with minimal post-processing. S T Y L E S H O OT S L I V E has been around since 2017: It is the first robotic photo and video studio.

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D I G I TA L

COMMUNICATION Text

4.0

K AY A L E X A N D E R P L O N K A

Photos

G U S TAV R A M E L O W KG

In the age of digital transformation, small and medium-size businesses face special challenges to keep up with technological advances. Using a software tool created by the Swiss company B E E K E E P E R , fashion and brand specialist R A M E L O W developed an app called P I A (which stands for ‘personal information exchange’) to serve the needs of its retail team. What’s at stake is the creation of workplace 4.0, which envisions a future of work that does not simply replace human agents by algorithms.

“It is our mission to connect people with one another who had previously been excluded from most internal communications,” says Cristian Grossmann, CEO and co-founder of B E E K E E P E R . “B E E K E E P E R allows associates to be reached in real time across locations and departments and integrates existing IT systems and communications channels on a single secure platform. Our smart dashboard helps users to reach all staff effectively; it connects staff members with one another easily; and it promotes collaboration among team members so they can make better decisions and optimize processes.” The software combines peer-to-peer, top-down and bottom-up communications on the basis of news channels and enterprise chats. In this way, it can reach and connect every single staff member via smartphone, web version or digital signage screens. Everyone can see the contents displayed on the news channels, while chats are encrypted so that third parties can

Left: Clara Becker, head of marketing and digital operations at G U S TA V R A M E LO W K G , and Corinne Berger, communications manager at B E E K E E P E R A G , are delighted about the awards.

Right: At R A M E LO W , the P I A app for ‘personal information exchange’ meets the needs for modern employee communication.

neither read not follow them. The dashboard can measure the efficiency and effectivity of all communications. It helps users recognize trends quickly so they can take adequate action as soon as possible. All of these uses are compliant with the EU’s updated General Data Protection Regulation. “By integrating existing systems, the app becomes a central hub for collaboration,” explains Corinne Berger, communications manager at B E E K E E P E R in Zurich. “All staff associates get their important information through this hub; all of them take part in discussions and, if necessary, can contact the right people directly via this hub. That’s why processes are more efficient, the performance level is raised, and every single voice is heard. In the end, such benefits make staff more motivated and strengthen their identification with their employer. B E E K E E P E R thus creates a workplace that encourages successful cooperation and that is both digital and personal.” B E E K E E P E R has additional offices in San Francisco, Berlin and London and employs 90 staff globally. Since 2012, B E E K E E P E R has been working with companies based in more than 130 countries. These companies specialize in all kinds of businesses: hotels and restaurants, retail, production, logistics, and construction. “The app is as easy and intuitive to use as Facebook or WhatsApp,” observes Clara Becker. “Everyone is having fun with the P I A app because we have simplified a lot of processes and that improves work quality. As a result, both our customers and our colleagues benefit equally from this app.” www.beekeeper.io

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steady flow of information. Even the maintenance worker can send a private message to the boss without any complications. In May 2018, the S C M (School for Management & Communication) in Düsseldorf, awarded R A M E L O W and B E E K E E P E R not just one but two prizes for their new communications tool. They won Best of Class in the category Digital Workplace and also took first place in the category Compact Idea, Big Impact. “We are very proud of our team for getting this award and that we could hold our own against big players such as Porsche, Vodafone and Jägermeister,” comments Clara Becker. The Inkometa Award for successful internal communication recognizes companies, organizations and agencies in German-speaking countries who compete in five categories: Strategy, Media, Digital Workplace, Campaigns, and Special Prizes.

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R A M E L O W uses five social media channels to keep its customers up to date: Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, YouTube, and Pinterest. Yet internal communications pose a challenge for the G U S TA V R A M E LO W K G , which owns eight stores and employs more than 350 people in three German states: Schleswig-Holstein, Lower Saxony and Saxony-Anhalt. Its stores are located in the towns of Heide, Elmshorn, Schenefeld, Wedel, Buchholz, Uelzen, and Stendal. Some of its employees do not have a computerized workspace. Heide and Stendal are 300 kilometers apart. Hours vary from branch to branch. “After a while, one single or even several smaller WhatsApp groups simply didn’t work out any more,” explains Clara Becker, head of marketing and digital operations at G U S TA V R A M E LO W K G . “Employees often received news and photos from work on their smartphones even when they were at home or on vacation. Our associates really wanted a business tool for internal communications that would allow them to quickly communicate images, text and videos and keep the professional level separate from the personal. Just putting up a new bulletin board is really no longer the way to go. Giving information on new brands added to our retail portfolio, sending out a survey addressed to decision-makers, restocking and shipping items from one store to another for customers, staging a marketing theme in a store space, reconciling receiving and stock with purchase and sales inventories: All of this has to be done as quickly as possible these days. Customers expect fast action and reliable information as to when the item they wish to buy will be available.” The new app, which staff can download from the App Store or the Google Play Store and install for free onto their smartphones, gives them the opportunity to actively participate and communicate with colleagues or just to look in on the

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STORE CONCEPT

A new trend is afoot: the “un-stores.” These are stores with physical locations that stock little or no product. Instead, they offer consumers a variety of services. Is this a groundbreaking concept for the future? Here’s a look at the concept and its backdrop.

FICTION OR FUTURE N E W C O N C E P T S I N R E TA I L

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STORE CONCEPT

TAY S J E N N I F E R K Ö P E R - K E L E M E N

As the name implies, these aren’t stores in the true sense of the word: They are un-stores. Recently, and especially in the US, points of sale have opened their doors with very few products for sale – or none at all. One of the top dogs is probably S A M S U N G . In New York’s Meatpacking District, the company opened Samsung 837 as a special space of consumer experience covering some 5,000 square meters. Goods can’t be purchased there. Instead, consumers can experience the brand first-hand. The interior includes a huge digital screen for public viewing events, a gallery for high-tech art installations, an interactive studio for music and radio happenings, and a kitchen for workshops and cooking showcases. A café and “living room” are included for relaxation purposes and to offer consumers a place to test S A M S U N G products at their leisure. Customer service is available for people who already own S A M S U N G products. According to media reports, more than a half million people visited the un-store in its first ten months of operation.

COFFEE, MANICURE, AND VI RTUAL M I R R O R S N O R D S T R O M , an American department

store and mail-order chain, is catching up too. Just this past fall, the company kicked off a store at Melrose Place in Los Angeles. The store doesn’t sell anything but offers consumers a tranquil island in the midst of the hustle and bustle of driving and shopping. The N O R D S T R O M LO C A L shop contains 300 square meters. Customers are advised by personal stylists – or they enjoy a manicure, coffee, wine or beer, or they simply return things. Clothing and accessories can be ordered online. Customers can have the merchandise delivered to their homes or pick it up in the store. There’s also a styling suite with eight dressing rooms so store visitors can try on outfits. Meanwhile,

Dutch lingerie retailer L I N C H E R I E has followed suit and launched an un-store in Amsterdam. Shoppers can take advantage of a virtual mirror which takes their measurements and determines the right size for the perfect fit. Shoppers can try on the retailer’s full range of products – including all brands and sizes – in the store. On request, merchandise can also be ordered by tablet for home delivery within 48 hours.

LEARNING TO U N D E R S TA N D THE BRAND It isn’t hard to figure out what’s driving the un-store concept. Consumer habits have changed dramatically. Merchandise needs to be available 24/7 and comprehensive customer service is an absolute must. Consumers themselves want to determine how they buy: either online or at physical locations, or using a mixture of both. Consumers want to select the payment method: either by invoice, credit card or PayPal. Retailers need to adapt. Multichannel strategies are the hot thing right now. The added value of un-stores is simply that they don’t focus on just selling merchandise. Rather, the product itself recedes a bit into the background while the store’s expertise in customer care takes center stage. What is important is the consumer’s relationship to the brand. Shoppers shouldn’t feel forced into buying anything. They shouldn’t feel the old hassle and pressure of moving through an environment stocked to the gills with goods. Rather, consumers should get to know the brand and its world. They should feel comfortable asking questions or maybe even try out the products. In un-stores, what comes first is the relationship with the consumer. This approach is undeniably not bad at all. The impact of social media reveals just how important relationships and social networks are in this day and

age – and how crucial it is to maintain them. When S A M S U N G 8 3 7 opened, the English-language media dubbed it the “flagship of the future.” Since then, more stores have opened that pursue a similar concept. It remains to be seen where this trend is headed.

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ALL-ROUND

SERVICE FOR SUCCESSFUL

E-COMMERCE is the brainchild of fashion photographer Wolfgang Müller and creative director Christian Ertl. With a profound knowledge of the visual as well as the organizational demands in professional photography, a passion for innovation and a love of fashion, the two founded the e-commerce service company O F F R O A D S T . Thanks to their mobile off-road studio, Müller and Ertl can deliver on-site styling and photo shooting for their customers, which forms the basis for successful e-commerce. In addition, the experienced team offers individual creative consultation, made-to-measure concepts, workflow management and technical support. Product visualization for your own website can’t get any easier. OFFROADST

HafenCity®Coat

Stand 7B03 BMS Bernd-Michael Schröder Sailing Wear GmbH Hamburg-Speicherstadt, Am Sandtorkai 25-26 www.bms.tv

#G RABYOU ROW N

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SERVICE

GOODIE BAG 1 _ A P E S N A C K S Natural, sugar-free and healthy snacking is often quite difficult. A P E S N A C K S offers the right solution with its newly created Crunchy Coconut Bites Natural. A little bit of everything you need! The coconut chips, which are gently dried and only processed with tapioca starch, are really crunchy, offering something wonderful to nibble on from the first to the last crumb. These small, round, bite-sized coins are the perfect snack for cookie monsters – on the couch or on the go. In the Crunchy Coconut Bites Natural, the natural coconut flavor really stands out: exotic, fresh and intense. 2 _ H I P P E A S We are H I P P E A S – the only one of its kind. We make crispy chickpea puffs for people who love to snack and collectively want to change things for the better. Four delicious, savory and spicy flavors let you crunch your way to snack heaven. Organic, with plant protein, gluten-free, no preservatives, vegan and very gently baked instead of fried – they’re just really good for you ... and for the environment, your friends and much more! Give peas a chance! 3 _ V Ö S L A U E R The two Flavors, cherry and lemongrass, by V Ö S L A U E R with 0 calories and 100 percent flavor are the absolute favorite must-haves of the fashionistas this summer. Enjoy some refreshing moments drinking the sparkling new beverages in the 1-liter PET bottles – whether doing sports, shopping or out on a picnic. In addition, the bottle’s beautiful design is bound to be the absolute eye-catcher in every it-bag. V Ö S L A U E R , Austria’s number 1 mineral water, is the innovative premium brand with many years of know-how and stylish taste. #jungbleiben #voeslauer This summer season the exhibitor A L I F E & K I C K I N is an official goodiebag partner. The bags were developed and made specifically for Panorama Berlin. Trade visitors, opinion leaders and fashion bloggers will receive the limited-edition bags directly from our “good girls.”

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1 SERVICE

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ALI F E AN D KICKI N

W E A R E A L I F E : W E A LO N E CA N N OT M A K E T H E WO R L D BETTER, BUT A LITTLE BIT M O R E C O LO R F U L !

Under this motto, the streetware brand A L I F E A N D K I C K I N , founded in 2008, creates brand worlds that are not only distinguished by their design and quality, but also by their mindful use of available resources. The employees of A L I F E A N D K I C K I N do everything with a focus on the brand’s guiding principle: ONE WORLD ONE F UTURE – no child labor, no blood, no slave labor, no leather, no downs, no wool, no silks, no furs. This credo doesn’t just adorn the brand’s marketing, but is consistently implemented throughout the collection development and production processes: The use of any animal products is banned from the jackets and pants. A L I F E A N D K I C K I N attaches particular importance to using fair and healthy production sites, where child labor isn’t used and workers receive real wages. In a world where commerce and price prevail, sustainability is indeed something that makes a small but huge difference.

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Matinique

T H E WA R D R O B E F O R T H E CONFIDENT URBAN MAN

M AT I N I Q U E provides the modern man with the wardrobe to lead a confident and enjoyable life in the city. The M AT I N I Q U E man is a modern, urban gentleman with a passion for life, who loves things that are masculine, iconic and classic. The clear uncomplicated designs with a strong Scandinavian identity put the focus on optimal quality and comfort. Each product has an excellent fit and uses cutting-edge techniques to meet the modern manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs at any occasion. The Danish label radiates strength, self-confidence and modern masculinity.

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Dogo W H O W O U L D H A V E T H O U G H T T H AT ?

When the label D O G O was founded in 2006 in Izmir, Turkey, nobody suspected that it would turn out to be a real success story. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clear that the colorful shoes with the playful motifs are enjoying increasing popularity. No wonder, because if you like showy, offbeat shoes, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re bound to find the right shoe here. The selection is huge: cute animals, colorful flowers, impressive urban motifs or delicate patterns adorn the shoes and bags by D O G O .

HALL 1.53 W W W. A N A-A LC A Z A R .C O M

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Imperial E X P E R I M E N TAT I O N I N C U T S A N D M AT E R I A L S unites a functional style with high fashion value in I M P E R I A L FA S H I O N and I M P . All fast fashion collections are 100 percent made in Italy. I M P E R I A L FA S H I O N knows how to add a new touch to every piece of clothing by bringing together tradition, innovative spirit and years of experience. A mix of energy and positivity with an eye for the gentler side of the contemporary style meet here skillfully. I M P , on the other hand, is the urban line for men and women at I M P E R I A L . A typical distinguishing feature is the combination of contrasts: strength and fragility, old and new, fluidity and rigor. In addition, I M P impresses with its willingness to experiment in cuts and fabrics, especially denim. IMPERIAL

Please

T H E ( H E ) A R T O F FA S H I O N – THE JEANS WITH THE HEART is still one of the most popular jeans brands for fashionable, unconventional women. All eight fast fashion collections a year are 100% made in Italy and are delivered 6 to 8 weeks after the order. P L E A S E wows with comfortable, sexy pant fits – from Boyfriend to Slim Fit and Super Skinny, the pants fit perfectly and so do the tops. “Feeling good” is the motto – and the designers make every effort to live up to this claim. PLEASE

Panorama Berlin Halle 1 Stand 1.49 CPD Fashion House 2 / M 003 EG

NEW SHOWROOM The New Fashion Plaza – 7. Etage (Karl-Arnold-Platz 2 - 40474 Düsseldorf)

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I n t i Fe r r e i r a

S U S TA I N A B L E CHIC FROM THE NETHERLANDS Founded in 2007 by the designer Semsa Ferreira, the brand is known for its high-quality fabrics, quality workmanship, sophisticated cuts, and longevity. It isn’t fashion for just one season, but clothing that can happily be worn over many years. I N T I F E R R E I R A only uses fabrics that are organic, ecological, recycled or upcycled – as well as innovative algae-based or technical fabrics. I N T I F E R R E I R A attaches great importance to ethical manufacturing processes and makes unique ready-to-wear collections that show respect for mankind and the planet. Headquartered in The Hague, the brand’s pieces are distinguished by their purist feminine aesthetic and elegant style for today’s modern woman.

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Liebesglück A LO O K F U L L O F ‘J O I E D E V I V R E ’ A group of young, innovative minds and designers from Mannheim are behind the fashion brand L I E B E S G L Ü C K – a brand that makes everyday clothing that also reflects a more personal, feminine look and lifestyle. The casual fit, flowing cuts and high-quality cotton blends are unconventional, easy to care for, versatile, and are bound to give their wearer a fashionable, cheerful look full of joie de vivre.

RETRO-INSPIRED FA S T FA S H I O N F R O M I TA LY

Dixie

Founded in the late ’80s by Massimo Frosini and Giovanni Guastella, D I X I E is one of the best-known and most successful fast fashion brands. Based in Florence, D I X I E delights women around the world with its sophisticated, retro-inspired collections. Made in Italy, the fashion’s success isn’t least due to the collection’s range, which also includes jewelry and accessories.

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Malvin COMBINABLE ITEMS A N D S T R O N G FA S H I O N P I E C E S I N A M I XTU R E O F STYLE S

The fashion label M A LV I N is emotional, modern, and presents casual everyday looks as well as smart business looks. M A LV I N stands for a distinctive lifestyle and is targeted at the confident woman who enjoys a feminine look. With sizes up to size 54, O P E N E N D by M A LV I N offers an optimized fit, because fashion is a matter of attitude and not of age or size. The brands M A LV I N and O P E N E N D have always been known and cherished for their decorative tunics and prints. Today, the label M A LV I N not only stands for tunics, but a love of detail, which can be seen in the various interpretations of dresses, shirts, knits and jackets. For years, the fashion label has been thrilling customers with its linen looks, especially in summer. M A LV I N not only looks good, but feels good too. A family-owned company, the brand gives priority to its employees, production facilities, and employee working conditions. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s focus is always on logistics-oriented solutions, to ensure optimal supply at the point of sale, high sales per square meter, and high customer satisfaction. The brand currently offers two collections per year and plans to add two more in the future, so it can work with its partners in a more trend-optimized manner. The themes for Spring/Summer 2019 are Activate, Bliss, Opalescent, Cool Spirit, Fresh and Spirit del Mar. All combinable, these strong fashion pieces come in a variety of styles.

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N I N T E R N AT I O N A L FA S H I O N FA I R

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DK COMPAN Y A /S L a C our s Vej 6 DK-743 0 Ik a s t T. +45 96 6 0 0 70 0 DK COMPAN Y CPH A /S K anon bÃ¥d s vej 10 DK-1437 C o penhag en T. +45 70 3 02 828 DK COMPAN Y VE JLE A /S Edisonvej 4 DK-710 0 Vejle T. +45 79 43 3 0 0 0

dkcompany.com

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Meier Lederwaren

W ITH STR O N G B RAN D S, TH E BAG S P E C IALI ST I S G R OW I N G

With S U R I F R E Y and E M I LY & N O A H , the bag specialist from Offenbach, M E I E R L E E D E R W A R E N , has two strong core brands that have enjoyed tremendous growth in recent years. Both brands are distinguished by material innovations in fine synthetics and wow with their designs and everyday functionality. A six-person development team with decades of experience ensures that new trends are picked up on early and that each product captivates with original details. Made in Italy, Thailand, India and China, the company is currently tapping new markets in Portugal, Spain, France, Ireland, Greece and Sweden. For trading partners, B2B shops are available. With optimized NOS programs, M E I E R supports its trading partners, to quickly respond to fashion trends at the point of sale. The licensed brand S U R I F R E Y is positioned in the core price range of EUR 40 to EUR 89. The companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own brand E M I LY & N O A H sells for EUR 39 to EUR 59. LE E D E RWAR E N

E M I LY & N O A H

SURI FREY

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Isilk FE M I N I N E, TI M E LESS, E LEGANT stands for the very best in high-quality cashmere and premium knitwear. The new collection C A S H M E R E A F F A I R fascinates with a mixture of feminine sensuality and timeless elegance. Carefree, romantic and ‘sophisticated’ at once, the offer ranges from classic to oversized pullovers. The looks are given a sporty touch by block stripes, and the minimalist designs add a luxurious level to the collection. Made in the brand’s own production facilities, the combinable collections consist mainly of natural fabrics such as silk, blended fabrics, refined viscose and cotton. The feel-good aspect and wearing comfort play an important role in the manufacturing. Therefore, only high-quality fabrics are used. ISILK

COME & VISIT US AT PANORAMA BERLIN HALL 3-3.29 03-05 JULY 2018

WWW.BROADWAY-FASHION.COM

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Summum Wo m a n

THE COOL A M S T E R D A M E R LO O K W I T H I N T E R N AT I O N A L APPEAL A clear vision has positioned S U M M U M W O M A N firmly on the European fashion market. When Jos and Jorien Wijker started the Amsterdam fashion label in 1998, they had strong conviction and focus: They would forge their own path in the fashion world. And that’s exactly what S U M M U M W O M A N does! S U M M U M has experienced impressive growth every year since it was established in 1998. This is because S U M M U M is adept at subtly translating its Dutch character into international trends, thereby addressing the ‘woman of the world.’ The modern woman who knows what she wants and how to make active choices. Naturally, a woman with a lot of style. The S U M M U M collection – now complete with jewelry, jackets, scarves, shoes and other accessories – represents a total lifestyle choice for this woman.

Alberto

S T Y L E – L I V E – LO V E

Pants for sailors, travel-loving urbanists and bike enthusiasts meet elegant business pants and casual trousers; modern check and stripe patterns – sometimes on very wide cuts, sometimes on extremely figure-hugging cuts, and always with highly functional fibers: For the summer 2019 season, A L B E R T O presents its most diverse collection to date. The pants maker from Mönchengladbach was founded almost one hundred years ago. The use of top-quality fabric and great attention to detail still go without saying.

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Broadway N YC F a s h i o n

THE TRIPLE SUCCESS: B R O A D W AY C O L L E C T I O N B R O A D W AY B E A M A Z I N G B R O A D W AY # N Y C : C O D E The B R O A D W AY N Y C FA S H I O N concepts and products are represented in over 30 countries and more than 20 showrooms throughout Europe. It supplies around 2,800 Point of Sales with an export quota of 65-70 percent. With over 2,000 articles, B R O A D W AY N Y C FA S H I O N proves its excellent price-performance ratio every season. B R O A D W AY N Y C FA S H I O N works with a highly modern IT platform that is constantly advancing in order to meet contemporary market challenges and stay always one step ahead. The logistics platform is operated by a very strong partner company that manages the warehouse and distribution. The data exchange is, of course, fully linked. B R O A D W AY N Y C FA S H I O N has strong subsidiaries and partner agencies all over the world in order to ensure a close relationship with the suppliers. With its three concepts today B R O A D W AY N Y C FA S H I O N offers six collections per year, and each collection has a minimum of two delivery drops. reaches a wide audience. It particularly targets and inspires fashion-conscious women aged 25 and above. The products of B R O A D W AY C O L L E C T I O N are feminine yet casual and feature discreet colors and stylish lines. Individual garments can easily be combined to leisure outfits and everyday office wear. B R O A D W AY C O L L E C T I O N offers practical and stylish feel-good fashion at affordable prices and ensures top quality. B R O A D W AY C O L L E C T I O N

B R O A D W AY B E A M A Z I N G is easy to wear fashion for women in their 20s with an authentic style. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simple recipe for success? Fresh sporty and casual designs, best-quality materials at end consumer friendly prices.

offers men from their 20s stylish, sporty looks for the modern urban lifestyle. The collection combines casual cool elements with trendy cuts and innovative finishes.

B R O A D W AY # N Y C : C O D E

E C C O

Imageanalyse MÃ¤nner 2018 ECCO Gesamtimage Platz 3

V I T R U S

BESUCH UNS AUF DER PANORAMA BERLIN 03.- 05. Juni 2018 Halle 4 - Modernist, Stand 4.38

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Karolina Landowski – The Düsseldorf-based freelance journalist writes and lectures on fashion and contemporary culture, including for the industry magazines S C H U H K U R I E R and L E D E R W A R E N R E P O R T . On July 4 at 11:30 a.m., she will present the key looks for Spring/Summer 2019 in her ‘step trend update’ at PA N O R A M A B E R L I N .

REVIVING

RETAIL The bad news first: Cities are seeing a decline in customer return rates that’s almost unstoppable. The good thing: That’s why retailers can focus more intensely than ever before on the customers who do come. The gaps are only increasing: actual buying versus shopping, online versus brick-and-mortar stores, digital versus emotional. While most products people need are available on the internet, brick-and-mortar stores are awakening new needs – provided the stores did their homework. Simply offering a standardized assortment of best-selling items no longer suffices. Retailers need to speak to their customer’s emotions; they need to spark exciting new experiences and show their appreciation for the person stepping into the store. Moreover, retailers need to breathe new life into their product assortment. It needs to be exciting, filled with surprises and fresh ideas. The atmosphere needs to be right. Retailers need to invest in giving the store a

modern look. But, today, giving a store a contemporary makeover isn’t enough: To permanently offer incentives to buy, stores need to introduce new product displays on an ongoing basis. It is more important than ever for retailers to offer a product selection that is unique; that clearly has its own distinct signature. Pop-up stores make visual statements by zeroing in on specific themes and continue to bring customers into stores. This customer now has incredibly high standards when it comes to visual merchandising. The product range isn’t just supposed to look good but needs to be Instagramable too. Mixing worlds, daring to integrate new products, and creating increasingly unique assortments is something that concept stores have demonstrated an aptitude for. Granted, concept stores aren’t anything new, but they are more relevant than ever. With their curated selections, concept stores ultimately fit into the whole design emphasis that is so characteristic of our

decade. For a while now, fashion retailers have been showcasing extra products such as run-of-the-mill sunglasses, books, and scented candles. Pioneers in this area are banking on ideas like mixing gourmet salts in with silk blouses, electronic gadgets with jeans, and household plants with sneakers. The worlds of interior design, fashion and food are fusing more than ever before – everything has become fashionable. The whole lifestyle concept is only growing and is represented by stylish, independent labels. This is what is increasingly sought and can be found at trade fairs like Panorama Berlin. So perusing the big exhibition stands and the main walkways isn’t enough. It’s really worthwhile to also visit the small providers of fine merchandise: the one-of-a-kind Italian jewelry label, the colorful, goodmood-inspired stationery, or the vegan skincare products. Because that’s exactly what successful retailers need to stand out from the crowd: little treasures.

Hall 1 | Stand 1.02

HOT STU F F

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HOT STUFF

What would the brick-and-mortar retailer be like without a few little items to disrupt things â&#x20AC;&#x201C; little things that surprise and make everyone smile, knick-knacks that add some color to gray everyday life?

HOT STUFF

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PA N T O N E ® The name P A N T O N E ® is known worldwide as the standard language for color communication. In 1963, Lawrence Herbert, founder of PA N TO N E ® , created an innovative system of identifying, matching and communicating colors to solve the problems associated with producing accurate color matches. For over 50 years, PA N TO N E ® has been inspiring design professionals worldwide with products, services and leading color technology.

R I V S A LT T H E A R T O F A D D I N G S A LT Grated salt – a unique culinary experience and a new way of adding salt. Different salt crystals from the most remote corners of the world offer a wide range of flavors, while grated licorice doesn’t just add a tasty kick to desserts. Ideal for men who are into the art of grilling steaks. Also an eye-catcher on every table.

PEPPERMINT PROD UCTS TO O L B O X The versatile container for pens and other things. Designed by Tim Plorin, the stylish desk organizer offers plenty of room to keep things tidy on your desk. The two levels are organized differently, allowing you to place small items in the bottom and larger ones across the top. The dividers are designed with enough material to hold their contents, but with as much air as possible so that you can actually reach everything in the deepest corners.

TA L M O STYLI NG CON N ECTE D N EVE R L O O K E D B E T T E R ! The new brand TA L M O from Berlin stands for beautiful tech accessories. TA L M O products

charge our various everyday gadgets in a stylish way. The long-lasting, retro-inspired, Apple-certified iPhone charging cables put you in a good mood and are permanently safe and protected thanks to the beautiful tube box they come in.

M E MOBOTTLE With their slimline shapes developed according to German industry standards, the design duo from M E M O B O T T L E , which originally comes from Melbourne, Australia, offers a real alternative to the classic bottle shapes by conventional bottle makers that are anything but bag-friendly. In the IT mecca of Silicon Valley, the clear, cool M E M O B O T T L E S are refined with lemon and lime wedges, as well as mint and basil, presenting the status symbol in the messenger bag as a clear statement against ocean pollution caused by single-use plastic bottles. – Ultra-hip! TH E PE R FECT FIT!

S T U D I O S TA T I O N E R Y In times of countless apps that help us organize our lives, S T U D I O S TA T I O N E R Y delights with lovingly designed planners which, thanks to lots of different stickers, invite you to set aside some time to play during the day, reminding us that we still run our lives.

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M E & M AT S

727SAI LBAG S

The mission of M E & M AT S is to create moments of happiness – to see the beauty of the world in those little moments – to enjoy and appreciate those little moments in life.

D E S I G N MAD E F R O M R E CYC LE D S A I L S – 7 2 7 S A I L B A G S designs a

range of products in France from 100% recycled sails. Each piece is unique, hand-stitched, and comes with a certificate of authenticity retracing the maritime story of the sail. 7 2 7 S A I L B A G S has always been inextricably linked to the world of yachts and high-sea regattas.

LICHTLIEBE A E S T H E T I C S , S I M P L I C I T Y, F U N C T I O N A L I T Y complemented by care-

Pure and natural essential oils such as watermelon, patchouli and grapefruit add a touch of rainforest to the Jungle Gold scented candle. The perfect gift to inspire others! HAN DMADE HAPPI N ESS.

ful craftsmanship and a conscious approach to the environment. Each element in the designs by L I C H TL I E B E is created with the aim of creating a stylish, cozy atmosphere in every room. A special focus of the products lies in the technical sophistication and quality of the components used. This uncompromising focus on design and sustainability is what defines L I C H T L I E B E .

R EVIVO H IG H-QUALITY SCE NTE D CANDLES AND N AT U R A L ROOM S C E N T S The design in the Black

and White Collection is reduced to the essentials. The patterns on the boxes recall the traditional Japanese kimonos that inspired them. The collection consists of six aromatic fragrances: Agent Stories, Amoroso and Mister Rou, which utterly charm you with their woody, earthy notes. And then there’s Kissed by Sunlight, Côte des Blancs and Verbena Medley – light and sparkly with delicate floral notes.

DOPPER

C H O C O L AT E T H AT R O C K S !

A 100-gram bar of chocolate is all it takes to share some happiness. A small gift can deliver a big message or encourage or reward someone. That’s what M E & M AT S is about: enjoying life and finding happiness in the small things.

WAT E R B OT T L E O N A M I S S I O N ! With stylish drinking bottles, D O P P E R is waging a war against single -

use plastic waste. In addition to sustainable water bottles, D O P P E R is actively involved in supporting safe drinking water projects worldwide.

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S NAKE B LOCKS™ is a classic toy reinvented in wood and elastic. Twist and turn its colorful birch-wood blocks to create endless forms, serpentine shapes and geometric patterns, including a sphere, a swan, a dog, and a fish. Composed of 24 painted wooden triangles with an elastic band throughout.

S N A K E B LO C K S ™

O C TA G O N Originally specialized in stationary and office supplies, the design office O C TA G O N from Barcelona also designs fun things for home. F O OT CA N D L E

CHARLES & MARIE V O I D W AT C H E S The P X R 5 by the Swedish company V O I D W A T C H E S was originally designed in 2005 by British designer Michael Young. Its futuristic stainless steel case features a digital LCD display and is akin to a belt buckle that is attached to the wrist by a utilitarian, woven nylon strap. The straps are attached with Velcro fasteners and are very easy to change.

SCHOOL OF LIFE A M I N O R M A L? A C A R D G A M E

BERLIN IQ T H E U LT I M AT E G A M E F O R B E R L I N FA N S – B E R L I N I Q is the ultimate

quiz for fans of the German capital. The game has 400 multiple-choice questions with German on front and English on back. Correct answers are counted as IQ points. B E R L I N I Q is played in teams in two rounds. This is how a game night gets turned into a weekend trip.

52 cards to find out just how weird (or not) you might be. Our picture of what is normal is in fact – very often – way out of line with what is actually true and widespread. Many thoughts, fears and desires that we might assume to be uniquely and disconcertingly strange are actually completely average. 52 statement cards help you reflect on your own self or are just lots of fun at a party.

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S E LVE D G E R U N TRADE SHOW FOR QUALITY GARMENTS AND CRAFTED GOODS

THE ES SENCE

N° 07 JULY 0 3—05 2018

PALAIS AM FUNKTURM HAMMARSKJÖLDPLATZ 14055 BERLIN

TRAD E S H OW FO R Q UALITY GAR M E NTS AND CRAFTED GOODS Strong Japanese focus, exciting newcomers and a new location in the Palais am Funkturm - S E LV E D G E R U N presents itself as a powerful player in the Berlin trade-show scene. With proven marksmanship, S E LV E D G E R U N continues clearly puts its faith in indestructible style, quality, and service in its seventh edition. Under the motto „The Essence“, visitors will find a fine selection of distinctive brands and concentrated inspiration. To ensure a smooth visit to Berlin, S E LV E D G E R U N not only cooperates again with PA N O R A M A B E R L I N but also simplifies access to the event for the professional audience of the Ethical Fashion Show. The summer edition of the „trade show for quality garments, shoes, accessories and lifestyle goods“ sets exciting impulses for the capital. The successful cooperation with PA N O R A M A B E R L I N , which takes place in the immediate vicinity, will continue. From now on, visitors with one ticket have access to

both fairs: the events recognize the respective accreditations. In addition, S E LV E D G E R U N , together with the Ethical Fashion Show and the Greenshowroom, have simplified this for trade visitors to access the trade fairs. The two events taking place simultaneously at Kraftwerk Mitte also recognize the accreditations, a second trade visitor check is not required. „We want to make the visit to B E R L I N FA S H I O N W E E K as straightforward as possible for buyers and press representatives and thus further strengthening the location,“ explains Shane Brandenburg, Sales Manager, and Partner at S E LV E D G E R U N . Value, sustainability, stringent corporate structures and transparent production processes are future-oriented aspects with which S E V E L D G E R U N has made a name for itself. All exhibitors in the current issue went through a special selection process that reflects the philosophy and quality standards of the fair.

Internationally unparalleled is the density of Japanese brands, some of which are presented exclusively at S E LV E D G E R U N in Europe. Inspiring newcomers such as Burgus Plus, Fine Creek Leathers, Nine Lives, Old Hands, H.W. Dog or Vasco complete the portfolio with trade fair returners such as Momotaro, Iron Heart, and Pure Blue Japan. Furthermore, S E LV E D G E R U N is pleased about the great popularity of young, fresh brands, among them the Dutch label Delikatessen, Ebbets Field Flannels and Colchester Rubber Co. from the USA, El Solitario from Spain or Laird Hatters from England.

S E LV E D G E R U N # 7 will

take place from July 3-5, 2018 at the Palais am Funkturm on the City West Exhibition Grounds.

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HALL

XOOM-BERLIN.DE

INNATEX â&#x20AC;&#x201C; INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES

ORGANIZER:

Trade Fair News |

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XOOM 2 Around 50 green fashion brands are looking forward to presenting their Summer 2019 collections to buyers – in two halls: 7B and 7C.

To make sustainable fashion accessible to international retailers and to offer green-fashion brands a marketing platform at Europe’s largest fashion fair PA N O R A M A B E R L I N : These goals were reached through a new 2018 cooperation between I N N A T E X – International Trade Fair for Sustainable Textiles – and PA N O R A M A B E R L I N . Positive feedback Above: G R E E N B O M B

from exhibitors and visitors prompted the organizers of X O O M to expand their cooperation into July.

themselves and to answer the audience’s questions. There will be lectures on other topics as well.

During the trade fair from July 3 - 5, 2018, there will once again be a supporting program in the X O O M Partner Lounge, where you can hear green fashion brand talks, which brands use to present

Exhibitors and visitors can look forward to three exciting days. We look forward to a successful XOOM 2 !

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Op-Ed |

A PLEA FOR CHANGE IN T H E FA S H I O N I N D U S T R Y by T H O R S T E N

OSTERBERGER

& C L O AT

GEROLD

INVESTING IN THE FUTURE Such was the case when Angela Merkel, after the Fukushima catastrophe, decided practically over night to shut down all the nuclear plants in Germany. Even people who were not that familiar with the topic of nuclear power discovered their very own moral compass spontaneously cheering: “Well done!” A similar thing happened when Donald Trump announced the US withdrawal from the Paris Climate Agreement in August 2017: A shudder was sent through society. Even those who’d so far not really distinguished themselves as political activists had a bad feeling: “This decision is a serious mistake that will likely impact us all.” This type of social consensus will over time – sometimes quietly, sometimes very loudly and visibly, depending on an individual’s temperament and willpower – create the conditions for a comprehensive change in values concerning the important issues of our time. People increasingly react with annoyance and incomprehension to persistently contentious issues, such as the auto-industry’s mule-headed and stubborn clinging to their beloved diesel engines, or the spraying of the insecticide Glyphosate over large swaths of land, or the smoldering mountains of garbage, and the ubiquitous madness of plastics pollution. No wonder then, that governments on all continents have been making more of an effort in recent years to take

action and – if at times rather all too tentatively – make laws to combat this environmental insanity. Snowflakes can trigger an avalanche, that much we’ve learned and that’s what we’re hoping for.

P ITTI N G ART AGAI N ST THE GLUT OF COMMERCIALISM. D E S I G N E R S TA K E A S TA N D ! We’re happy to see that the apparel industry is finally joining the fray and getting increasingly attuned to these changing times and values – and this is due in large part to courageous fashion designers who are publicly putting their foot down. Stella McCartney stages her collection on a Scottish garbage dump. The models are lounging about on rusted out jalopies and strike poses on bags full of household garbage. Befitting her temperament, Vivienne Westwood exhorts emphatically: “Buy less!” – and specifies: “Quality, not quantity!” The label Vetements fills up the shop windows of luxury shopping temples Harrods in London and Saks Fifth Avenue in New York not, as usually, with coolly staged items but rather with gigantic piles of textiles that don’t just look like they’re secondhand clothes spilled from a Goodwill container that’s been tipped over. Those whose take on this is ironic or even cynical have not yet arrived in the

new universe of the “woke generation.” Since, granted, there’s always a big and blatant contrast between the selling of (luxury) fashion and the appeal to consumers to ‘please consume less.’ But fashion has been and will always be art as well. What these designers want to achieve with their actions – which can truly and rightfully be called ‘performances’ – is a collective rethinking on the global level of how we do things.

T H E A P PA R E L I N D U ST RY AS E N V I R O N M E N TA L O F F E N D E R – ALM O ST AS D I RTY AS O I L The goal is to pare operations down to a healthy level, to shrink the industry to a reasonable scale, because in matters of waste production, it comes in fifth from the top of all environmentally harmful industries globally. According to the business magazine Forbes, the clothing industry, clocking in at $3 trillion dollars in value, is also responsible for 10 percent of global CO2 emissions and takes second place among all industrial polluters, just below the oil industry. Looking at the industry’s environmental offenses in detail, we are quite right to be afraid: Our ravenous appetite for ever new trends and cheap seasonal or single use items continuously destroys gigantic swathes of agricultural lands, trees and

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The fashion expert and stylist Thorsten Osterberger works for renowned publications such as B U S I N E S S P U N K , D I E D A M E , R A M P S T Y L E and L U F T H A N S A E X C L U S I V E . Since 2017, he has been the editor-in-chief of the industry magazine J ’ N ’ C – the current issue is also dedicated to sustainability. In 2018, together with the journalist Cloat Gerold, he founded the agency V A D A – Creative Concepts, Content, Consulting.

forests, water resources and oil reserves. It bears its share of responsibility for the extreme pollution of the world’s oceans and lakes with chemicals and pesticides, and also with polyester and micro fibers. And it dirties the air with toxic fumes and gases. And then there’s the issue of wage slavery and the often hazardous labor conditions, and the exploitation and taking advantage of laborers in many countries around the world.

THINKING D I F F E R E N T LY A N D S TA N D I N G TA L L . YE S W E CAN! But the revolution is slowly gathering steam. The position taken by the textile industry is a case in point. “Suddenly everyone is talking about sustainability because they’re feeling the market pressure,” says Sedef Uncu Aki of Orta Anadolu, a Turkish textile company. In 2010, the company created “Orta Blu,” a platform supporting a series of initiatives which, in turn, help out local NGOs on three different continents. She adds: “And even if it’s true that the word ‘sustainability’ is getting a bit overused these days, we don’t see this movement as a trend but rather as indicative of our collective future: We need innovative ways to process new materials and resources. – Sustainability meets high tech.” Tony Tonnaer, founder of Kings of Indigo and a sustainability pioneer, likewise

sees change in the wind: “When we decided to switch to sustainable denim production in 2002, no one else showed any interest, especially not the old school manufacturers. That’s why we had to buy our own organic cotton and then we had it ginned, woven and sewn in other facilities. This process was essentially unaffordable and not cost-effective. Nowadays, though, it’s clear that we’re no longer out on a limb. That’s a great development! More and more suppliers are on board with this, which then gives other companies the opportunity to become more sustainable. For one thing, there’s consumer demand for sustainability. I consider retailers to be the biggest problem. They are the ones that don’t buy sustainably.”

CAUTI O N, G R E E N WAS H I N G ! T H O S E W H O FA K E I T, FA L L O U T O F FA V O R W I T H C U S TO M E R S Indeed, retailers are having a hard time: with the digital revolution and the new shopping worlds that are blowing away the mustiness of 1,000 years still clinging to traditional department stores and boutiques – a development due in large part to sustainable fashion. Too many minds are still stuck on the image of crunchy eco duds and coarse sweaters. People! Those days are over! Retail cannot ignore the issues that move fashion designers, manufacturers and

indeed all of society because this would be economic suicide. And yet, the topic of sustainability is still considered a passing fad by a lot of retailers and dismissed as a trend that may be popular today but might just morph into a flop come tomorrow. That’s why a lot of retailers comport themselves as they do. Heeding the hype, they may adopt this or that product line with a nice sounding “green” name for their retail portfolio, but usually they don’t check whether the clothes they stock have really been produced sustainably and traded fairly. But we’re living in an era when countless fashion designers and bloggers are focusing intensely on sustainability and more and more platforms and online shops are exclusively recommending and selling certified sustainable products. Consumers can no longer be easily fooled since it takes just a few clicks in one of those many available expert apps to get information about a brand and how green it really is. That’s why greenwashing can quickly backfire. In the worst-case scenario, it can cause a big scandal with a lot of media attention that does permanent harm to a company’s reputation. How much easier would it be for retailers to simply adapt to the new times, to bone up on which certificates do really guarantee sustainable fashion and which sustainable brands and labels would indeed be a perfect fit for their retail portfolio!

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Left: R E C O L U T I O N Above: F E U E R V O G E L Right: H E M PA G E

By studying consumer behavior carefully, retailers can recognize another clear sign that people’s ideas have changed: Even privileged customers who have everything and who can afford it too – even they are now invested in sustainability. Julia Zirpel of The Wearness, a new online shopping portal, knows this too. “Ethical Luxury” is their platform’s slogan: “Even luxury shoppers have raised their consciousness with respect to the bad labor conditions and glaring environmental offenses caused by the manufacture of clothing and cosmetics. And it is precisely the area of luxury shopping that’s still underserved when it comes to attractive shopping opportunities for sustainable fashions. Currently, e-commerce is still focusing heavily on creating a speedy shopping experience and on sales promotions. Opportunities to get informed about designers and products that are up to date with respect to sustainable approaches to fashion are still lacking. This is where we’re seeing an opening for a platform that presents high-quality, sustainable fashion and beauty products – in the form of a curated selection twinned with journalistic information about products and designers.”

Even if slogans like “Ethical Luxury” seem absurd at first glance – such an approach can be very much on target if the new consciousness embraced by high-fashion designers, luxury retailers, VIPs, celebrities, leading figures, bloggers, and influencers works its way down through the ranks. If the tip of the iceberg is flying the flag of sustainability, then the mainstream won’t stay far behind.

L E T ’ S G E T S TA R T E D . I F N O T N O W, W H E N ? We should all adopt the British idiom “every little [bit] helps” for our mantra when it’s about making sure that the fate of human society and of our planet can be directed in such fashion as to show future generations the way. Sure, scientists tell us that we should really throw all the old ways of thinking overboard – right now and with a bang – so that from that point on we’d only be acting as based on this premise: “pro humankind, pro planet.” But human societies don’t work that way – and industries don’t at all. Everything takes

time. That’s why we’re launching this appeal: If every decision-maker took up a roadmap and they all figured out which areas in their companies could be tweaked bit by bit to produce an improvement in our environment, then we’d be halfway there – and our collective rethinking would have begun. Even the smallest contribution to the great sum of all parts would be a good contribution. Take a moment and think about this …!

PANORAMA BERLIN

THE MARKETPLACE FOR FASHION AND LIFESTYLE Halle 2/Stand 27

MAN CLASS OF

WWW.RAGMAN.DE

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Over 30 and not a bit dusty: F I N G E R Z is the fashion store on Kassel’s Entenanger Street. This is the place that makes the trends in Kassel’s scene; that determines what’s chic. The emphasis has always been on quality – on high-quality garments and excellent customer service. Fair trade is no fad there and the store has become friends with many of its customers. With a tremendous fashion sense and excellent people skills, owner Erika Finger and her team present beautiful labels such as Armedangels, KnowledgeCotton Apparel, Sessun, Carhartt, K.O.I. Jeans, LangerChen, and many more. The merchandise and atmosphere are clearly styled in accordance with ‘organic’ and ‘fair trade’ expectations. And if you get cozy in the 1950’s chairs, you feel rather like you’re in Amsterdam, London or Berlin… – What a wonderful shop full of individualism and womanly flair.

KASSEL’S FINGERZ INTRODUCES ITSELF

FINGERZ

Owner: Erika Finger Entenanger 2 / 34117 Kassel Telephone: 0561 22743 Email: fingerz_store@gmx.de Website: www.fingerz.de

How is this merchandise presented in a store that sells both conventionally made and sustainable fashion?

We present a mixture of both. In one-on-one talks with customers, we answer questions about our clothing, usually regarding production processes, fabric composition, and origin. How is the clothing received by customers?

Interview

JAN EGGERS

Ecologically and fairly produced clothing is very well received by customers. Many come to us because they want to buy fair trade clothing. People often ask for it. What types of questions do customers ask?

Customers usually ask about the fabrics used, the country of production, and the working conditions. They also often ask about how certain fabrics are made, especially fabrics like viscose or Tencel. What types of challenges do you regularly face?

Interview J A N E G G E R S with Fingerz owner E R I K A F I N G E R Ms. Finger, how did FINGERZ come to feature sustainable clothing?

I was interested in organic and fair trade fashion early on. From the very beginning, I’ve been going to the I N N AT E X fair. That’s where I found some styles that work really well in my shop. I gradually started replacing the conventional fashion in my shop with fair, organic merchandise. What have you experienced so far with sustainable fashion?

Sustainable clothing often makes customers feel good about themselves. At least this is the case for people interested in this type of apparel. These customers know that they are wearing something that has been produced under fair conditions and isn’t contaminated with toxins.

One challenge that I regularly face is explaining to customers that garments can also be produced fairly in China, India or Bangladesh. There are always customers who don’t think this is possible. When customers read the “made in China” tag, many immediately assume that the clothing was made in poor working conditions. How do you bridge the gap between conventional and eco-fair fashion in retail?

When purchasing conventional fashion, you can always ask the companies whether the garments have been produced under fair conditions. If a company can’t answer this question, it should be removed from the product line and replaced with another company that supports fair trade labor practices. Where this policy is observed, there isn’t really a gap between the two.

What needs to change for conventional retailers to recognize the potential of sustainable fashion?

Quality rather than quantity plays a fundamental role here. There would need to be a fundamental change in people’s buying behavior. If clothing is ecologically and fairly produced, then you don’t just get good clothing: You also really help our environment and the planet. What about certification labels, what role do they play in the buying process?

The certificates give many customers a sense of security, since the clothes have been quality controlled for label compliance. However, it’s rarely a requirement for a purchase in our store. If customers like something, then they buy it even if it doesn’t have a certified label. What would you like to see happen with respect to brands, policies and consumers?

I would like to see it become more normal for brands to use fair, organic production methods. I don’t think it hurts a brand in any way if they have their clothing produced in compliance with fair trade labor practices. They can only win, since the demand for fair trade and organic clothing is only increasing. Companies should also work together and exchange ideas. As for policy, we must create a framework to reduce current levels of poverty and inequality. Once this is done, we’d have the tools to increasingly prevent the production of clothing under unfair conditions. Everyone should get a fair wage for long hours of hard work. Workers in poorer countries shouldn’t be neglected and exploited. Consumers should strive for empathy with the countless workers and for awareness that a T-shirt, which is sold for EUR 4.99, has been produced under really miserable conditions. People need to ask themselves whether they want to wear garments like this. It’s quite easy to buy a T-shirt for a little bit more, but that in return was produced under fair conditions.

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Interview |

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FREUDEN HAUS F R E U D E N H A U S H E I D E L B E R G has been a fixture in Heidelberg’s shopping scene for over 20 years. Customers come from Heidelberg and surroundings but also from far away just to shop at F R E U D E N H A U S . It’s clear that they all appreciate the personalized level of customer care provided by owner Michael Schweyher and his team. But what they’re really here for is the carefully selected assortment of new favorite items just waiting to be discovered. Whether you love classic cuts and garments or are looking for the season’s latest trends, you’ll find it at F R E U D E N H A U S . With denim, outerwear, shoes and accessories, the store offers a balanced selection of conventional and sustainable labels.

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increased our range of sustainable fashion from season to season. I was fully aware from the outset of the horrendous conditions in textile production, but there weren’t any labels whose fashion fit our style. As soon as I found the first suitable labels like Armedangels and Kuyichi, it was clear to me that I would continue taking our product line in exactly this direction.

How have your experiences with sustainable fashion been so far?

So far they’ve only been good! How do you present both sustainable and conventionally made fashion in the same store?

To begin with, the sales floor is organized by label. In addition to sustainable labels, we feature a lot of conventional labels that make their garments in Europe. When we advise our customers, which is very important to us, we always tell them about the various labels. This helps us find the right pieces for the specific customer. How is the clothing received by customers?

Very well. Some customers come in specifically looking for sustainable fashion. These customers are usually well informed about the various labels and the conditions under which they are produced. However, there are also customers who buy clothing simply because it looks great and they like the feel of it when wearing it, etc. For these customers, the sustainability aspect is an added value. Sometimes, though, a good shopping experience can get customers more involved in the issue of sustainability.

XOOM

What types of questions do customers ask?

They mainly want to know in what countries the clothes were produced. Many of them ask about the meaning of terms like ‘organic’ and ‘fair.’ What types of challenges do you regularly face?

In my opinion, the same challenges you face with conventional fashion: You need to find what it is your customer wants. How do you bridge the gap between conventional and eco-fair fashion in retail?

Make it simple. You need to remember that conventional fashion isn’t necessarily just the negative flipside

to sustainable fashion. In many regions, conventional fashion is an important sector of the economy that lets a lot of people earn a living. There’s also a production area that’s situated somewhere between the signposts of eco-fair standards and bad conditions that smack of exploitation. What needs to change for conventional retailers to recognize the potential of sustainable fashion?

Purchasing policies need to change. People need to realize that the two aren’t mutually exclusive opposites, but that they can coexist. What about certification labels, what role do they play in the buying process?

It often makes the shopping process easier for customers: They can see for themselves what it means when there are labels certified ‘organic’ and ‘fair.’ On the other hand, the certificates have seen a decrease in credibility in recent years, something that customers are aware of. What would you like to see happen with respect to brands, policies and consumers?

I would like to see brands share more of their profit with employees along the entire value chain. In terms of policy, we need to simplify the chaos around certification labels. We need to make sure that the certificates are, in fact, valid and that businesses adhere to what’s on the label. I would like consumers to re-think all their consumer habits. It’s not enough for us to just want to buy sustainable fashion in the same quantities as we used to buy conventional clothing. We need to understand that quality comes before quantity.

FR E U DE N HAUS H D H E I DE LB E RG

Owner: Michael Schweyher Plöck 7 / 69117 Heidelberg Telephone: 06221 166660 Email: michael@freudenhaus-hd.de Website: www.freudenhaus-hd.de

Interview |

How did Freudenhaus come to sell sustainable fashion? Ever since I took over F R E U D E N H A U S H D in 2002, we have only

Interview J A N E G G E R S with Freudenhaus owner M I C H A E L S C H W E Y H E R

Op-Ed |

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BETTER NO

PIGGY MESSES, OR MAYBE YES, AFTER ALL?

patterns, or places to spend time in. What’s more, commercial advertisements address or even create lifestyles.

Markus Oess is editor-in-chief of FA S H I O N TO D AY M E N .

At first glance, pigs don’t have a lot to do with lifestyle. The Duden dictionary defines lifestyle as “a specific [-ally modern] way to design one’s life.” Wikipedia adds that lifestyle designates certain recognizable combinations of preferences for how to spend one’s leisure time; lifestyle is a kind of style that reduces the social distance between people who are into the same style while it magnifies it between those who aren’t. What defines lifestyle has to do with preferences in housing style, clothing, language

Stylish enjoyment and sports are still the most popular leisure time preferences of people who are blessed with a cushy financial background. And it is just such people that retailers would love to see in their stores (so what exactly are all those middle-income people doing in their spare time?). So, what to do? Hire a Michelin-star chef on the fly, lean back and wait for customers? Build a wave pool for surfers and stare at them in wonder? Put on an open house concert and promote youth culture? Retailers who can afford these things must have done something right and way before they tried this; they must know exactly what types of worlds they’d like to create for their customers. While they’re doing this, they certainly don’t have a lack-of-customers problem because they’ve turned themselves into a lifestyle. Consumers who frequent such stores thus associate a certain lifestyle feeling with these stores. The retailers have themselves become a brand, like Tommy Hilfiger or adidas, and they don’t just give empty brand promises – they fulfill them. Such analysis presupposes two things: First, the art to really understand one’s customers. To do so, one first has to know who they are. Second, retail must be ready and able to accompany their customers on the road to change – presupposing of course, that retailers recognize that there is change. Lifestyles and fashions, too, both change and transform over time. And that’s a blessing. Off and on, one retailer or another has trouble with item number one or number two or even with both. Retailers, meanwhile, have access to sophisticated tools they can use to analyze their customers’ behaviors and plumb the

depths of their preferences. And while some retailers are still busy crunching numbers or hoping for some divine inspiration because the data flood is just swamping them, others like Massimo Dutti only take a few weeks to successfully get the kind of fashion items into their stores that are currently very popular. That’s how they’re able to captivate people who want just those items. That too is a kind of lifestyle. It’s a big systemic advantage that twostage retail can barely keep up with. Digital helpers are at best only as good as their users. On the other hand, it’s the showboat stores and also the good-quality, smaller retailers who know the local market really well and who can respond to it in a much more flexible manner. All they’ve got to do is do it! How much a good retailer has to be systematic – I’m not really sure about that, but they can’t achieve anything at all without gut feelings and a good instinct. What’s especially necessary for a good buyer is to go about life with eyes wide open, even seeking out change, as it were, so as to distinguish their own company and set it apart from the competition between vertical and online retail (it’s well known that you can find everything on the Internet, but where to look for it? how to find it?). You get there by selling truly the most selective brands, by showcasing a suitable range of items and by providing new contents that’s connected to fashion in a way that quite indirect, mediated. Good buyers, many of whom depending on company size are also sellers and general managers, are like truffle pigs. They discover what’s special and discern subtle nuances. Or they should be doing so, if they want to share and participate in their customers’ lifestyles. And where else but at trade fairs is it possible to sniff out what’s currently trending?

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