Panorama Berlin Magazine – English by Panorama Berlin

FALL WINTER

2017 18

DISCOVERING

MALEIKA

PANORAMA FASHION FAIR BERLIN HALL 4 | BOOTH 4.42

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MAGAZ I N E

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In Stores Now & Gorgeous!

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In Stores Now & Gorgeous!

I N T H E G A R D E N O F E A R T H LY D E L I G H T S

B OYS W I LL B E B OYS

A SOUTHERN ROMANCE

SHADES OF COOL

A L L T H AT YO U C A N â&#x20AC;&#x2122; T L E AV E B E H I N D

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VISIT US AT BOOTH 3.16 AND BOOTH 9.50 AT NOVA CONCEPT

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MAGAZ I N E

PA N O R A M A FA S H I O N FA I R B E R L I N G M B H

Kurfürstenstraße 12 10785 Berlin Tel.: +49 30 27 59 560 40 office@panorama-berlin.com

PU B LI S H E R

Jörg Wichmann E DITOR

Ralf Strotmeier FA S H I O N

Julia Quante Jennifer Chyla E DITOR IAL TEAM

Andres Damm Nicole Urbschat Thorsten Osterberger ART DI R ECTION

Dagmar Puzberg GRAPHICS

Johannes Grünberg C ONTR I B UTOR S

Christof Post Dirk Merten Doreen Wilken Edgar Berg Heiko Laschitzki Jesper Brandt Lars-Fredrik Svedberg Julien Barbes Jürgen Müller Karolina Landowski Katrin Weber Oliver Lehner Se7entyn9ne Tobias Wirth T R A N S L AT O R

Cathy Lara MARKETING

Vanessa Vulcano Magdalena Falkner C O O P E R AT I O N S

Daniela Henn PRINT

Wagemann Medien GmbH Berlin THAN K YOU

Dusty Deco Stockholm COVE R

Photo: Dirk Merten Styling: Christof Post

the state 18 January 2017

of retail 2 pm

lecture Lectures Hall (Hall 10)

d f r o s T. C o m

Welcome |

MAGAZ I N E

Dear

Readers,

W E LC O M E TO PA N O R A M A B E R L I N F O R T H E FA L L / W I N T E R 2 017 / 2 018 ! “The times they are a changin’”: Bob Dylan, this year’s Nobel Prize winner in literature, sang this in 1964. And, well, the times appear to be changing more than we like: the refugee crisis, Brexit, Trump, wars in Syria, Iraq and Yemen, anxiety about the increasing rate of digitalization – the list could go on, unfortunately. But fashion – as a seismograph of the zeitgeist – is an emotional business. Listlessness, uncertainty, or even fear are poor advisors even when choosing a new look. Add to this, as we keep hearing from fashion producers and retail, the unpredictable weather – too cold in summer, too warm in winter. In sum, no fun! But fun is one of the central themes of fashion, so we prepared a number of new things for the ninth edition of PA N O R A M A B E R L I N , which will put fun and enthusiasm for fashion and retail back in the light, or so we hope. In addition to new spaces like those for shoes and accessories in Halls 5 and 6, expanding the H I P STAR segment in Hall 7A or the premiere of our new LI NG E R I E area in Hall 7C, we have expanded the lifestyle areas – as we already announced last season. For the Fall/Winter 2017/2018 season, in the segments MA!N, CONTE M PORARY LUXU RY, S H O E S & A C C E S S O R I E S and

in Hall 9 for N O V A C O N C E P T (which we think is the future of fashion retail), we are showing an individualized, exciting assortment that promotes dialogue with consumers. We

have

also expanded our series and gained another skillful partner with the Stuttgart-based, retail-marketing agency D F R O S T . Last but not least, we put a lot of energy into our PA N O R A M A D I G I TA L project, probably our most ambitious ever, which for the first time presents a consumer version of the first virtual fashion tradeshow in the world for the new season. LECTU R ES

In spite of all its difficulties, the fashion industry is and remains a people’s business — exchanging knowledge and experience with one another, talking, seeing and being seen are the essentials of our industry. And in the future too. In this spirit, I wish you all an exciting and engaging time with us. Yours, Jörg Wichmann

Fashion Week driven by Mercedes-Benz.

allyou need 14

Service |

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

A I R P O R T B E R LI N -T E G E L T X L Shuttle runs

OPENING HOURS FOR VI S ITOR S

TUE – THU FROM 8.15 AM – 6 PM

/ Departure

Messedamm 22, 14055 Berlin

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 1 5

MINUTES

AI R PORT SXF/ S-B H F B E R LI N-SCHÖN E FE LD Shuttle runs

TUE – THU FROM 8.15 AM – 6 PM

/ Departure

Tue June 28 9 am – 6 pm Wed June 29 9 am – 6 pm Thu June 30 9 am – 6 pm N AV I G AT I O N A D D R E S S

EVE RY 20 M I N UTE S

EVE RY 30 M I N UTE S

Travel time approx.

– depending on availability

30 MINUTES

A F T E R B R E A K FA S T S H U T T LE B E R L I N H B F / S T E I G E N B E R G E R H O T E L , M O T E L O N E K U ‘ D A M M , M A R I T I M P R O A R T E H O T E L B E R L I N

Shuttle runs

TUE – THU FROM 8.15 AM – 10.30 AM

/ Departure

EVE RY 15 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

LO C AT I O N A D D R E S S Travel time approx. 1 5

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

– 25 MINUTES

Berlin ExpoCenter City Use the entrance marked “Eingang Süd” on Jafféstraße Entrance N O V A C O N C E P T Messedamm, Hall 9 14055 Berlin S E RVICE HOTLI N E

Hotel rooms, flight or train tickets?

Shuttle runs

TU E - TH U FROM 11 AM – 5 PM

/ Departure

EVE RY 15 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 2 0

SEEK

Shuttle runs

TU E - TH U FROM 11 AM – 5 PM

/ Departure

EVE RY 30 M I N UTE S

Whatever you need for visiting

MINUTES

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 3 5

MINUTES

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Fall/Winter 2017/2018, our PA N O R A M A B E R L I N Hotline Service is always there for you.

M E R C E D E S - B E N Z FA S H I O N W E E K B E R LI N V E N U E Shuttle runs T U E – T H U F R O M 1 1 A M – Shuttle runs always B E F O R E A N D A F T E R

5 PM TH E S HOWS

– depending on availability

Monday to Friday: 9 am – 6 pm Tel.: +49 (0)30 27 59 560 - 33/- 11 service@panorama-berlin.com LU G G AG E C H E C K- I N

Professional trade fair visitors to PA N O R A M A B E R L I N who have booked one of our partner hotels will have a special service available to them.

Travel time approx. 1 5

CITY WE ST S H UTTLE Shuttle runs

/ Departure

EVE RY 20 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 1 5

MINUTES

HALLE 9

CITY EAST S H UTTLE Shuttle runs

In the Welcome Lounge at our trade fair site, your luggage can be dropped off and delivered to the partner hotel that you’ve booked, while you are already holding your first trade show talks.

TUE – THU FROM 3 PM – 6 PM

MINUTES

TUE – THU FROM 3 PM – 6 PM

/ Departure

EVE RY 20 M I N UTE S

– depending on availability

Travel time approx. 2 5

MINUTES

Travel time approx. 7

MINUTES

HALLE 9

PA N O R A M A B E R LI N A R E A S H U T T LE Shuttle runs continuously

TUE – THU FROM 9 AM – 6 PM

SOUTH ENTRANCE

B E R LI N CITY WEST (KURFÜRSTENDAM M)

E NTRANCE HALL 9

B E R LI N CITY EAST (P OTS DAM E R P L AT Z )

NOVA CONCEPT | HALL 9 | 9.24

OP-ED |

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

by K A R O L I N A

L ANDOWS K I

Face the future

The future. There is hardly an issue that currently occupies the industry more than the world of tomorrow. How will we shop? What will we wear? Who will we become? Conferences, specialty magazines, and offshoots of major daily newspapers have dedicated themselves to these questions and have outlined visions for industry and commerce that fall somewhere between science fiction and genuine threats. Visions that are palpable today. With augmented reality, we won’t just be chasing Pokémon, but trying out customized clothing. It won’t be long until robots make our clothing and drones deliver them. Until 3D printers at the corner store make personalized goods on demand. Technology has become intricately woven into our day-to-day lives. Wearables, smart fibers, and flashing lodens have already made them wearable. Big Data, artificial intelligence, and the Internet of Things promise to make everyday life and work even easier – and at the same

time there is something terrifying about them. It’s no wonder that our industry is looking so desperately for its bearings. Digitalization is taking enormous steps forward, disrupting entire industry sectors, and creating new paradigms in which technology is gradually replacing humans. Amazon’s new supermarket won’t have any cash registers – which means that cashiers will be dispensable. We are only at the beginning of the digital transformation that will turn everything we know upside-down: how we think, how we communicate, how we consume. That entails not just major challenges, but also opportunities: in an ever more connected world, the yearning for human contact, proximity, and security grows. A yearning that retail in particular can profit from by creating a safe haven. A comfortable space for customers who are already

overwhelmed, a space that surprises and entertains the customer – for instance through new segments, product fusions, and convertible concepts. The tools of the future, however, include not only flexibility but also the lovely fashion concept of attentiveness. In other words, it’s important to address forecasts and market changes, the sooner the better. But it is even more important that we don’t lose focus on the present moment because otherwise we might miss a crucial factor: the customer, who comes to the store in search of something. Micro-trends, which can’t be predicted in the long term anyway, but rather generate an unstoppable dynamic through social media and influencers. The healthy balance between intuition and reason that makes every buying season exciting all over again and that can play an active role in shaping a future that seems so threatening.

Karolina Landowski is a freelance fashion journalist who lives in Düsseldorf and writes for specialty magazines like “ S C H U H K U R I E R ,” “ S T E P ,” and “ L R ”

trend

update 18TH JANUARY

WEDNESDAY 11.30 A.M.

Atelier-Gardeur

AUTUMN/WINTER 2017/18

PANORAMA BERLIN Lectures Hall / Hall 10 Messe Berlin South Entrance

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

VISUAL STATEMENTS®

Pukka all i need V I S U A L S T A T E M E N T S reaches more than 13 million people every month on social networks, making it one of the most successful social media brands in the German-speaking world. The viral trends and influences from the powerful fanbase are taken up and translated into a product range that features fashion, stationery and home accessories. The inspiring lifestyle products by V I S U A L S T A T E M E N T S have successfully established themselves in concept stores and trend shops. P U K K A Here’s to golden moments – with turmeric, the queen of spices! An organic tea blend of the finest Indian turmeric, fresh lemon, organic green tea and aromatic cardamom, Turmeric Gold by Pukka sustains life’s majestic glow. The latest addition to the P U K K A range was created by the company’s co-founder and chief tea developer Sebastian Pole to pass on the invigorating power of turmeric root to the people. Plus: Each P U K K A tea blend is produced sustainably, ecologically and fairly. A L L I N E E D green tea with superfruit. The two Austrians, Alexander Jiresch and Thomas Miksits, had an idea: to create the perfect holistic, healthy refreshment, so they combined organic, fair trade ingredients with great design and an awesome taste. A naturally invigorating product, all i need contains fresh brewed Sencha tea, the superfruits aronia and acai as well as ginger and jasmine. Each pallet of all i need that is sold secures one month of schooling for one child in one of the countries where the ingredients come from. Think global. Drink social.

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

treaclemoon

Brooklyn Soap Co. Dermalogica T R E A C L E M O O N We know that true beauty comes only from the inside. But we also know that a good mood is a fabulous little helper – healthier, more effective and faster than all cosmetic surgeons in the world combined. A happy smile makes any face still much, much more beautiful at the blink of an eye! It’s like sparkling glitter powder for the inner values. And that’s why the products of T R E A C L E M O O N are not only effective care products that caress and flatter the skin, but also fragrant-intensive cheerful makers, funny-colored feasts for the eye and contagiously charming chatterboxes. D E R M A L O G I C A Get to know D E R M A L O G I C A and experience how your skin changes forever! Dermalogica was founded in 1986 when neon colors and big hair reigned supreme and superficial beauty seemed more important than healthy skin. With its simple, functional and discreet packaging, D E R M A L O G I C A caused quite a stir back then. The products were free of the customary ingredients known to cause skin irritations and allergies. Skin care experts have always believed in innovation through real research, real ingredients and real results. And their customers believe in the beautiful skin they see. B R O O K L Y N S O A P C O . With handmade, plant-based products, the B R O O K LY N S O A P C O M P A N Y has created a contemporary care line designed specially for men. The founders Felix Ermer, Viktor Dik and Jonas Hillebrecht were inspired by strolls through Brooklyn’s flea markets. Here they discovered their appreciation for quality-oriented, handmade products that don’t contain any unnecessary ingredients. Today, the Hamburg company’s portfolio features beard, skin and hair care products.

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

TAKE HAIR ON A JOYRIDE! You know the problem: You’ve just blow-dried your hair and it looks perfectly styled. It would look great if only those loose strands of hair weren’t flying around that you always seem to get with freshly washed hair. Show your hair who the boss is and don’t give frizz a chance! J O Y R I D E is the perfect finishing balm against frizz. Gain control and create lightweight definition without an oily finish – for an effortlessly cool style! # H A I R T H R I L L S C O N T R O L Y O U R S T Y L E L I K E N E V E R B E F O R E ! J O Y R I D E is available for €19.90 (RRP) in all T I G I partner salons. Discover more style wonders by B E D H E A D by T I G I at: bedhead.com/en/ and become a Facebook fan today: facebook.com/tigihaircare.de, so you don’t miss any more hair trends!

FIND ALL BRANDS, MAP OF THE WHOLE FAIR, SCHEDULE OF ALL EVENTS & EXCLUSIVE SERVICE OFFERS ALL IN YOUR POCKET APP.PANORAMA-BERLIN.COM

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

Haily’s & Zabaione

This is as fast as it gets – that’s the motto for Tam Fashion GmbH. The company presents the Spring/Summer 2017 season opener for the two fashion labels H A I LY ’ S and Z A B A I O N E . Due to the extremely short lead-time for the two labels, the range is always up to date – all shops receive the latest new products on average once a week. With its young fashion, H A I LY ’ S addresses a trendy, young target group. The label delivers products to about 1,500 shops throughout Europe on a weekly basis. Z A B A I O N E stands for confident styles for the modern woman in sporty, feminine designs. The company currently supplies about 700 POS dealers throughout Europe.

Meisïe

This brand immerses itself in its own nostalgic world where memories of love and happiness from the past appear, transporting us back to our childhood. Founded by Noelia Peinado and Marc Sorensen in 2009, M E I S Ï E is inspired by a love of ethnic looks and also by bohemian and Scandinavian influences and romantic touches. M E I S Ï E retains a personal and reserved character that gives the brand its individual identity thanks to the many details.

Since 1983, P I LG R I M has designed handcrafted stylish jewelry, sunglasses and watches for fashionistas everywhere. As the epitome of style in jewelry, sunglasses and watches, the focus is on pieces that are all about dreams, hearts and style. P I LG R I M takes pride in keeping the brand authentic, never trying to be something we are not. Staying true to who we are and where we come from. It has been an amazing journey. For over 30 years women all over the world have embraced the look and the style – and made P I LG R I M the brand it is today.

Pilgrim

HALL 1 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; STAND 1.08 17-19 JANUARY CREAM-CLOTHING.COM

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

Anna Justper

“Life is about the moment”: This is the philosophy new label by Milano Fashion in Hamburg, follows when it dresses its customers. With high-quality fabrics such as silk, cotton and viscose, the label presents sporty and casually elegant outfits, as well as detailed individual pieces. This collection for the modern woman can always easily be combined over and over again for every occasion. The fits are well thought out, offering high wearing comfort. With its unique, individual looks, this sophisticated international collection reflects the contemporary zeitgeist, making it easy for the A N N A J U S T P E R customer to choose between inspiring and harmonious outfits that are also always colorful. The woman who wears A N N A J U S T P E R is interested in culture, knows what she wants and loves life. A N N A J U S T P E R , the

Alraune Lifestyle

stands for high-quality leather bracelets and modern silver jewelry. The most important materials in the designs by the brand A L R A U N E L I F E S T Y L E are leather, stainless steel and pearls. The designers create new collections twice a year. Extremely fashionable or simply elegant, the jewelry is always wearable and very easy to combine. ALRAU N E LI FESTYLE

Sexy, confident and trend-conscious: The Dutch ready-to-wear brand E K S E P T stands for on-the-money womenswear with strong style statements and a finger firmly on the fashion pulse. E K S E P T curates, creates and translates the latest fashion trends into seasonal musthaves that spice up every wardrobe. The new collection, ‘Opposites Attract,’ is all about playing with contrasts, unconventional colors and fabric combinations that define E K S E P T ’s unique style.

eksept

HALL 1 - STAND 1.61

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

Sandwich

For Fall/Winter 2017/2018, S A N D W I C H continues with a collection designed with real women in mind, for any moment of the day. Clothes that make you feel good. Wherever you are. Whatever you do. S A N D W I C H has once again made sure that each piece can be combined with those from the current and previous collections. Ultrafeminine details embellish the collection without compromising on the comfortable fit and feel.

Saint Tropez

From express brand to full line supplier in 30 years and with its own retail chain and more than 1,000 wholesale customers throughout Europe, S A I N T T R O P E Z is an important player in this segment. S A I N T T R O P E Z started with express deliveries of the latest trends, which – together with 6 yearly collections – continue to form the brand’s basis. These continual collections give S A I N T T R O P E Z the competitive edge in a market that has a constant need for trendy products. The common denominators for all S A I N T T R O P E Z collections are the delicate, feminine touches, and the clear reflection of current trends – and always at the best possible conditions, providing an optimal price-performance ratio.

is women’s fashion with a significant style content and highly competitive pricing – for women who want to feel charming and spirited. As the spearhead of the Arav Group, S I LV I A N H E A C H is inspired by the energy and enthusiasm of young people and designs garments for the everyday life of active young women who are looking for the essentials: comfortable and timeless styles in bright colors. S I LV I A N H E A C H

Silvian Heach

MEET AND GREET WITH JESSICA SCHWARZ 17th january from 11am-1pm

COME AND SEE OUR FALL 2017 COLLECTION

PANORAMA BERLIN / HALL 1-1.55 17-19 JANUARY 2017 WWW.BROADWAY-FASHION.COM

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

RUE de FEMME The young label was founded in Denmark in June 2014 and stands for trendconscious high-quality fashion. R U E D E F E M M E stands for collections that are cool yet elegant and casual at the same time. R U E D E F E M M E combines Scandinavian style with details that are feminine and playful, creating a unique look. With clear lines, R U E D E F E M M E focuses on the essentials, but still features trendy cuts, patterns and fashionable colors.

Soaked in Luxury

Laidback feminine, granny chic and crisp styling are key words for the main Fall 2017 collection from S O A K E D I N L U X U R Y . A beautiful burnt color theme is ruling the collection, and you definitely feel the flavors of fall. The print stories of the collection are really strong with amazing flower prints, cool checks and color-blocking. With S O A K E D I N L U X U R Y you always get on trend and easy to wear styles â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and this season the magic happens when you mix and (mis)-match the styles in the collection.

Part Two

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

The main Winter 2017 collection has a romantic, feminine charm to it. There is a beautiful balance in the combination of cool styles like dark denim with a soft suede biker jacket. A huge variety of hip and timeless outerwear pieces emphasizes the autumn feeling of the collection. The collection also features East-meets-West prints. Recurring elements include fashionable feminine details such as ruffles and embroidery. The contrasting parts being the soft colors and the feminine details combined with Nordic simplicity make it a personal, serene and modern collection from PA R T T W O .

KAFFE

K A F F E provides the natural feminine woman with a modern Scandinavian style â&#x20AC;&#x201C; based on timeless classics with beautiful feminine details, offering versatile styles, great fabrics, and an effortless and timeless look. These core values are reflected in K A F F E â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection, displaying a palette of intense and rich colors with a touch of elegance and sophistication. Shades of green along with purple tones dominate this season. A balanced fusion of playful diversity, as well as masculine and feminine elements, is expressed through vintage military looks, cargo styles, flower prints, detailed embroidery and cool cozy knits.

re.draft RE.DRAFT, a

brand with short-notice ordering options, remains true to its casual styles and clean cuts. Soft, flowing fabrics and fine details give the collection a slightly more feminine look, reflecting the latest trends. While the brand also dares to do more with color, its usual harmonious statement remains. A strong coral with berry tones and fresh sea-blue nuances give the current collection its final touch for the season.

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

Thought

T H O U G H T , the brand formerly known as B R A I N T R E E C LO T H I N G stands for contemporary sustainable fashion.

Inspired by nature, antique art and the world around us, the T H O U G H T collections are diverse, inspiring and unique. The British label’s commitment to the environment is woven into every garment. The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection is inspired by antique art. Color and abstract prints become the focal point of otherwise clean, effortless silhouettes. T H O U G H T experiments with hand-sketched flowers and color blocking, while the fabrics remain natural and untouched.

Cream

The Danish brand C R E A M is an ambitious seller of unique Bohemian-style fashion. C R E A M is about a passion for details. The label’s Bohemian style and spirit is immediately recognizable in everything the label does. For the new season, C R E A M presents feminine silhouettes and casual daywear. Red tones such as romantic old pink and burnt red brown are, above all, key here. Royal blue is featured on structured surfaces or on stripes. Femininity vs. stringent military is portrayed in soft flounces and laces, metallic surfaces and uniform badges. Mind the details!

Fransa

For Fall 2017, the Danish fashion brand F R A N S A offers four different themes: Starting with “Travellers,” the first Fall shipment is inspired by wildlife and flora from foreign places. “Maori Nights” follows with a homage to the native people of New Zealand – the Maoris. Their art and tattoos are the inspiration behind the delicate prints. New Zealand’s landscape dictates the color scheme: black, dark grey, withered rose and yellow-brown olive. Up next comes “Gaucho Girl” with folk influences and a mixture of traditional motifs and embroidery. The colors: blue and red on a black background. Last but not least, there is “Army Romance,” a casual collection with army-inspired pants and jackets mixed with feminine blouses for a softer and more glamorous style.

PANORAMA BERLIN HALL 1 | 1.66 www.annajustper.com

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

InWear

With a new and rejuvenated approach to the intelligent, modern tailoring that underpins the I N W E A R universe, the Fall 2017 collection represents an exciting dialogue between classic house codes and of-the-moment, dynamic femininity. The new collection debuts with a timeless and soft feminine color palette infused with dark midnight blue, wine-tasting burgundy reds and olive greens. The silhouettes are focused on injecting effortlessness into daily dressing, creating an enduring wardrobe, special piece by piece. Distinguished by a refined, timeless elegance, graphic precision, and exquisite materials.

Betty & Co.

Preferably relaxed – that’s how SHE deals with the hustle and bustle of the big city. B E T T Y & C O G R E Y focuses on casual outfits that score points for their understated looks. With a clear sense of style, the looks convey a laid-back approach to life. At first glance, it’s an effortless interpretation of casual elegance: That’s the smart business line by B E T T Y & C O – a style that makes statements with its aesthetics and striking formal language. A style that puts the focus on the wearer’s personality: straightforward and confidently female.

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

Modström

In Fall 2017, the Danish label M O D S T R Ö M is celebrating a retro revival. The label has drawn inspiration from retro movements by taking references from sports, architecture, and art. Prints and patterns are among others inspired by Anni Albers, a Bauhaus-influenced artist, who has created geometric prints and colorful, bold textile weaving. The prints in the collection are a mix of graphic prints combined with organic and feminine elements. Authentic Italian interior design has been a source of inspiration as well. Organic proportions, gold, richly detailed décor, and the use of contrasted, saturated hues have inspired the collection’s elegant and feminine details. M O D S T R Ö M mixed these feminine elements with more sporty retro references to build up contrasts and create contemporary silhouettes suitable for the modern woman. The color scale has roots in Italian interior design and retro surroundings as well. Especially the warm and saturated tones take origin in the tactility, colorful walls, and artistic décor.

Olsen

In the Fall/Winter 2017 season, O L S E N presents a variety of exciting themes: The focus is on knitwear and shirts – the olsen brand’s core competencies. Inlays, double-face knits, 3D jacquards in solids and prints, as well as special bouclés show an array of innovative knitting techniques and yarns. New, modern shapes and exciting prints are reflected in the shirt area. All of the new season’s themes combine modern femininity with thoughtful fits and high-wearing comfort.

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

Cartoon

We’re called C A R TO O N , and that’s no coincidence. We approach life with a certain coolness. We say yes – to everything that is fun and pleasing, simply because we like it! This is reflected in the designs in our collections. It also sets the tone for how we communicate – relaxed and always with a wink of the eye. Lots of love and attention to detail are behind C A R TO O N ’s wow effect. Looking is permitted. Smiling is a must.

PULZ Jeans

Selling jeans with a passion, jeans that fit the customer perfectly, this is the company’s self-declared goal. When P U L Z J E A N S creates fashion, the unforeseen, the wacky and the impulsive are welcome. Customers must be able to feel the designer’s spirit in the collections – the label’s goal is nothing less: “We believe in nurturing positive energy, our community. Our indestructible love for jeans gives us the will to create the best results, results that we so passionately wish to pass on, since our customers mean everything to us.”

HALL 1 - 1.09 KAFFE-C LOTHING.COM

Brand news |

STYLE H U B

CULTURE

“This is my culture”: The slogan of the Danish fashion brand C U LT U R E emphasizes that the brand is more than clothing – it’s a lifestyle, an atmosphere, a universe. The collection is targeted at women ages 30+ who love C U LT U R E ’s characteristic and somewhat quirky universe. The C U LT U R E collections are designed in such a way that allows the various items to easily be mixed and matched for a personal and individual style. A mix of different cultures has always inspired C U LT U R E .

SisterS Point

Since its launch in 1994, the Danish label S I S T E R S P O I N T has experienced nothing but growth. The label’s creators believe there is only one way of doing business: to do their very best, and if that’s not enough – to do even better. They have built their business on their ability to spot trends and transform them into styles that trend-conscious young women like to wear. They deliver today’s fashion – with passion or not at all!

Since 2001, B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R has been seducing customers away from fashion’s monotony with its unique creations. The brand creates feminine collections for self-assured women directly in its Berlin studio according to proven tradition. For this purpose, B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R creates specially designed, colorful patterns that can be combined with everything in the collection to create a high-quality, feel-good couture that is suitable for daily wear and embodies a timeless chic style. As a member of the Fair Wear Foundation, the Berlin label attaches great importance to sustainability and fair production conditions.

Blutsgeschwister

Brand news |

Glamorous

For Spring/Summer 2017, British fast fashion supplier G L A M O R O U S draws from aspects of the previous season’s cool-girl aesthetic to bring together a collection of wearable pieces that mixes feminine details with decorated denim and contemporary sporty styles. Summer denim inspired by adventurous street style is updated to include art school worthy paint splatter whilst dusty pinks, gingham and ruffles add a feminine touch.

b.young

The B . Y O U N G Fall/Winter collection is inspired by nature’s colors and a desire for something wilder. The collection fuses sporty and modern details with rich fabrics and natural fibers. The look plays with feminine details, including flounces, ruffles and pleated details. The motto “East meets West” is also a source of inspiration: military elements contrast with an Eastern Zen atmosphere. Graphic prints are inspired by Japanese flowers and mixed with feminine lace. Silhouettes have simple, clean lines with a touch of volume.

STYLE H U B

Jumpsuit by B L U T S G E S C H W I S T E R Top by B S B J E A N S

in the GARDEN of earthly Photography J U L I E N B A R B E S Styling J U L I A Q U A N T E

DELIGHTS

Dress by B S B J E A N S Pants by S A N D W I C H

Jumpsuit by M O L LY B R AC K E N Scarf by B S B J E A N S

Blouse by R E . D R A F T Necklace by S W E E T D E L U X E

Dress by S A N D W I C H Blouse by S A I N T T R O P E Z

Jacket by Q / S D E S I G N E D BY Blouse by R U E D E F E M M E Shorts by M O L LY B R AC K E N

Total Look by S A I N T T R O P E Z Necklace by S W E E T D E L U X E

Top by R U E D E F E M M E Blouse by G A R C I A J E A N S Skirt by B S B J E A N S Necklace as Belt by S W E E T D E L U X E

Jumpsuit by M O L LY B R AC K E N Scarf by B S B J E A N S

Blouse by R U E D E F E M M E Pants by S A I N T T R O P E Z

Blouse by P U L Z J E A N S

Dress by S A N D W I C H Blouse by S A I N T T R O P E Z

Dress by Q / S D E S I G N E D BY Bra by M O L LY B R AC K E N

P H O T O G R A P H E R : J U L I E N B A R B E S | | FA S H I O N S T Y L I S T & P R O D U C T I O N : J U L I A Q U A N T E / P E R F E C T P R O P S H A I R & M A K E U P : K I M K E U S E N U S I N G U N D G R E T E L B E R L I N | | M O D E L : J E M M A H A N S E N / M U G A M O D E L M A N AG E M E N T

Blouse by F R A N S A Top by S A I N T T R O P E Z Pants by B S B J E A N S

OP-ED |

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Conformity is not beauty

Recently I observed the following scene at a clothing store: A salesperson greeted a customer with the usual mantra and asked her whether she was looking for something specific. She replied: “I can’t really tell you what exactly I’m looking for. Something special. Something that’ll surprise me.” Obviously ignoring everything he had learned about being a salesperson, he retreated with an expression of understanding mixed with despair and abandoned his customer to her own devices. This scene showcases perfectly why the fashion industry is currently so much at odds with itself, why the warehouses are full while the cash register of many a retailer is empty. Almost every store a customer goes to sells the same thing; almost everywhere what counts is mass, not class. By now, the glut of fashionable clothing is no longer just a problem for producers and retailers, but also for customers. It is a very rare occurrence that a sweater still has the potential to become someone’s favorite piece of clothing. Usually, the owner becomes bored with the item after wearing it a couple of times.

by D O R E E N W I L K E N

The author spent many years working as the editor-in-chief of the online portal F A B E A U and is a freelance writer who publishes articles on fashion and lifestyle.

As much as it caused excitement in the early days, the democratization of fashion over the years has brought with it the loss of the special. Massproduction has gone hand in hand with the lack of originality. By now, you can’t find anything that hasn’t been there before. Textile producers, designers and retail buyers – too many of these have been fishing in the same pool of ideas with the result that customers, in the end, are faced with the same-old things everywhere they go. Creative sallies are very rare. And when there is one it doesn’t take a lot of time until even this one is degraded back into the mainstream. What once was democratization of fashion has become fashionable conformity, even if multiplied into a thousand varieties and, sadly, all too frequently into fabrics made of polyamide or rayon blends. If sales revenues and returns are to rise all the time, and if it is more important to please investors than customers, then this takes a toll on innovation. Both, production and purchasing would rather play it safe. The result is boring and disappointing, as expected. Dutch trend researcher Lidewij Edelkoort put it succinctly some time ago: “Fashion is dead” – all that’s left is clothing. What’s missing are the emotional appeal and uniqueness – in sum: the special. The shopping boulevards of Lisbon, London or St. Petersburg all look like the ones in Cologne or Munich. Billboard campaigns run by the great retail chains now differ in nothing but the logos of their leading luxury brands. Where fashion once held up the mirror to show who someone was, now it is little more than junk food to wear. For less than €100 you can dress to look like whoever you currently wish to be – from your head down to your toes. But the

semblance of identity lasts only until you start sweating so much under that polyamide shell that you’d rather leave the outfit at home in the closet. Nor does shopping for fashion still work for retail therapy and ego pampering these days. Whether shopping online or roaming the four floors of chain store temples: both have become soulless activities. The piece of clothing you bought there more often than not does not leave a lasting impression – it doesn’t wow you or your friends. On the contrary: The collector’s feeling of triumph when carrying home your bags or unwrapping the package is soon followed by emptiness, which must be filled again. The joy you used to feel years ago, when finally, after months of putting money away, you’d hold in your hands the pair of jeans or sneakers of a particular brand – that joy is now very rare indeed. In fact, it’s not even possible to feel an intense longing for these items because you can easily fulfill your desire without any problems or spending much money. But such duplicated, massproduced commodities do not give you any special feeling of being alive or a distinctive identity. And how could they, given that there’s way too many of them?

For clothing to get back the value it deserves, everyone should remember what it is that makes fashion ‘fashion:’ quality, intricate details, individuality, and the passion to make people happy by giving them style rather than a piece of fabric. However, to make this decision requires customers and industry equally to have the courage to sometimes go against the mainstream, and to know exactly who you want to be or whom you would like to dress. Today’s salespersons must be psychologically skilled in empathy more than ever in order to gauge who it is who stands there before them. This is how you don’t just sell an article of clothing but also a distinctive feeling of being alive – and that’s what it’s all about, after all.

TRENDINFO AUTUMN/ WINTER 2017

BERLIN

THE LATEST TRENDS IN WOMENSWEAR AND MENSWEAR

JANUARY, 17th 2017 - 12 AM AT THE EXPOCENTER CITY LECTURES HALL / HALL 10 SPEAKERS: GUDRUN ALLSTÃ&#x201E;DT MICHAEL WERNER (TextilWirtschaft) Doors open at 11:30. Registration is not required. The number of participants is limited. The event will be held in German only. Admission is included in the price of your tradeshow ticket and thus completely free of charge.

www.TextilWirtschaft.de/trendinfo

www. TextilWirtschaft.de

Brand news |

MA!N

Atelier GARDEUR Men

The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection comes with four delivery periods. The focus this time is on wool-inspired themes, played out in wool and wool blends with plaids, jacquards, tweeds and micro patterns. Silhouettes are informal in a Relaxed Fit as 1-pleat and 2-pleat top styles, to name but two fits. Wool and wool looks come in shades of gray, alongside tones such as shadow blue and midbrown. Modern contrasts come care of the combination with faded wine, gold bronze or indigo blue. A casual slant is added by an extensive color range of such classic nuances as ecru, vicunha or pigeon blue, and rounded off by dark rich utility green, chestnut red or cognac. Denim is presented this season in Deep Sea Blue, Grey, Black and Black Black alongside the classic indigos.

STAND 2.10

WOOL WINTER

www.alberto-pants.com

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MA!N

MAC

In the Fall/Winter 2017 season, M A C ’s ladies’ and men’s styles are very innovative, fashionable and rich in contrast: Naturalness meets modernity, sports, and the spirit of the times. In addition to the new Dream Sensation denim model that captivates with its bi-stretch fabric and great shaping effect, the womenswear line also features trendy silhouettes with a higher waist such as the High Riser model. M A C ’s menswear also wows with very innovative looks, elaborate detail solutions and new fabrics.

Benvenuto

is a brand owned by Leithäuser, a company successfully established in the international market for high-quality men’s clothing since 1934. The brand combines Italian style with individual character: modern, avant-garde, luxurious. B E N V E N U TO offers two labels: B E N V E N U TO B L A C K and B E N V E N U TO P U R P L E . More than 1,000 retailers and 300 vertical stores/shops in more than 40 countries around the world trust the B E N V E N U TO brand. For further information, please visit: benvenuto.de B E N V E N U TO

www.milestone-jackets.com

A N ZE I G E

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01.02. – 03.02.2017

20.02. – 23.02.2017

PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

CIFF COPENHAGEN

CPM MOSCOW

HALL 2 – BOOTH 2.03

HALL B5 – BOOTH 12 1

FORUM

22.01. – 23.01.2017

2 7. 0 1 . – 3 0 . 0 1 . 2 0 1 7

M O D E FA B R I E K A M S T E R D A M

SHOWROOM MEN DÜSSELDORF

SHOWROOM WOMEN DÜSSELDORF

E U R O PA H A L DISTRICT C

MODEAGENTUR ENNEN D E R E N D O R F E R A L L E E 3 3 | 4 0 4 74 D Ü S S E L D O R F

AGENTUR SASCHA BERNING / B1 B E N N I G S E N P L AT Z 1 | 4 0 4 74 D Ü S S E L D O R F

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MA!N

haupt

“More is more!” is the German shirt specialist’s motto in Fall/Winter 2017/2018. H A U P T focuses on the new type of man, who is modern and open-minded, and moves between the worlds of business and leisure without having to change his shirt. The new collection presents six themes, such as Minimal Prints or City Prints, because prints remain a must, or modern classics, because stripes and checks are simply indispensable. Other collection themes include Leisure Checks, Highlight Prints, Denim & Friends, and Heavy Quality. With the fit called ‘Modern Fit,’ the fashion specialist caters to the evergrowing target group of men who want to combine body awareness, modernity and freedom of movement.

J.PLOENES

The new Fall/Winter 2017/2018 season will be both elegant and rustic. Elaborate prints on different fabrics such as gum twill, wool or cotton, give some pieces in the collection a rough look. In addition, high-quality jacquard weaves in silk or silk/cotton ensure a collection with a broad product range. Apart from ties, the focus is increasingly on all kinds of accessories. Breast-pocket handkerchiefs, scarves, and tie clips with hip motifs enjoy new interpretations, as do narrow bow-ties that are presented with matching socks.

Brand news |

MA!N

PBT Sportswear

is sophisticated men’s leisurewear including cool cotton and wool blazers in many fabrics and fits, detailed outerwear, a vast variety of cotton pants with many details, an incredible array of colours – all Made In Italy. Every detail of P B T , from the lining to the buttons, from the stitching to the down filling, is a product of the skills and refined taste of its staff, a winning team that treats every aspect of the production process with passion and enthusiasm. P B T ’s outerwear is indeed a very prominent part of the Fall/Winter collection, offering lightweight jackets as well as semi-heavy outerwear, perfect for the new European winters. PBT SPORTSWEAR

VON FLOERKE

In 2014, after trying in vain to buy a bow tie online in the city where he was a student, David Schirrmacher founded V O N F LO E R K E . Our table concept displays two collections: The NOS collection enjoys an eye-catching presentation in the NOS box and is available all year round within 24 hours. The single-color accessories can all be combined and are presented in a nice overview format. The fashionable flash collection is replaced every three months with a new one.

– from a love of detail, because when it comes to style, there are no compromises! Founded as H. F. Meyer Schuhfabrik in 1888, the company looks back on more than 125 years of history. Since 1927, L LOY D has already been a brand name and today still stands for high-quality men’s and women’s shoes. Since the 1960s, the red stripe in the sole has been the brand’s unmistakable trademark. Firstclass craftsmanship, selected materials and an excellent fit with a fashionable and elegant design – these components characterize all models made by L LOY D .

L LOY D

LLOYD

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MA!N

s.Oliver BLACK LABEL Men

Dressed. Contemporary. Sophisticated. S . O L I V E R B L A C K stands for high-quality, modern fashion for special events and business – all the while remaining approachable and uncomplicated. “Comfort is the new luxury” is the motto behind the Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection. Comfy jersey and knit looks play an important role in all product groups. Formal and casualwear mutually inspire each other in the new season, resulting in exciting combinations. The athleisure trend subtly surfaces in the collection – in the technical details and exciting mix of fabrics.

LABEL MEN

DB SCHENKERfairs will suit your needs! A successful fashion fair requires perfectly designed logistics services. As the official trade fair forwarder we provide the entire logistics services for your fashion trade show. Lean back and enjoy your gathering in Berlin â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we do simply everything in logistics, so that everything is simple for you. DB SCHENKERfairs. Schenker Deutschland AG Branch Office Berlin, Service building south/nearby gate 25, JaffĂŠstrasse 2, 14055 Berlin Contact us for further information: Eric Mett, Phone +49 30 3012995-441, eric.mett@dbschenker.com Mike Penkert, Phone +49 30 3012995-442, mike.penkert@dbschenker.com Benjamin Biernath, Phone +49 30 3012995-443, benjamin.biernath@dbschenker.com www.dbschenker.com/de

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MA!N

In the coming season, the men’s label AT E L I E R TO R I N O won’t just focus on classic suits. It will, above all, present a modular system so customers can put together their own outfits. “Mix & match”: under this motto, the label created a collection that is very clearly intended to create captivating looks when the different, harmonious patterns and textures are combined. In knitwear, casual knit looks and finely woven surfaces exude an elegant, relaxed feeling.

atelier torino

ROY ROBSON

The R OY R O B S O N label has been a fixture in men’s fashion since 1922. With timeless, classic collections, the brand has secured a permanent place on the international fashion stage. True to the Bauhaus motto “Form follows function,” all of the pieces in the R OY R O B S O N collection are required to be 100 percent comfortable to wear. A very sophisticated-looking collection also results from this, one that is known for its clear formal language and special feel.

S4 Jackets

The new collection of men’s jackets by embodies the latest trends in men’s urban fashion: city style, clear design, precise ideas, first-class outer fabrics – simply 100 percent man. In terms of fabrics, “matt and natural” meet “functional.” Athletic sportiness is as important as an exceptionally confident style. The focus is on light fabrics and bright colors. Stitching varies, and a full range of cuts are offered. S4 JACKETS

Digel

The D I G E L M O V E Fall/Winter 2017 collection is inspired by two basic trends. Firstly, it participates in the athletic trend and presents products designed with technical ease. Here, black-concrete-gray tones are combined with white-andred contrasts. The sporty look is rounded off perfectly with jogging pants or a sweater. Voluminous, oversized coats create lightness and a casual feeling. The second theme embodies a somewhat dramatic, eccentric penchant for elegance: Luxurious nightshade blue tones are combined with purple, violet or even malachite. Let the night show its glamorous effects – with silky shiny looks with depth. Strong designs with a geometric origin and, above all, clear checked patterns, create visual highlights.

Since 2012, the German men’s fashion label N O W A D AY S has created modern and simple menswear. The focus is on timeless design and attention to detail. Simple. Modern. Smart – this sums up the N O W A D AY S man. He appreciates cultural events and phenomena even before they’re known to a broader public. Cosmopolitan and designoriented, he is open to new brands – his outer appearance is unaffected and well-groomed. He chooses his clothes quickly and in a style-conscious way. His clothing consists of modern basics, which are completely compatible with one another and have a modern silhouette. With their narrow fit, they accentuate the body without constricting it.

NOWADAYS

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MA!N

The new O LY M P Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection was inspired by the growing desire for digital detox and the desire for real, sensual, tactile experiences. Visits to clubs, work done by craftsmen, meditation, and a desire for wellness are the result. The colors are divided into four themes: Purple Sky, Body & Mind, Just Like A Man and Into The Wild. New print types from the tapestry world, as well as modern paisleys and new graphic looks set the tone for the current patterns. Jacquard and satin matt-gloss effects add a touch of light. Dense thread-counts and variation-rich bindings form the basis for creating a new type of quality for textiles. Artisanal elements such as piping strips, chrome-plated buttons or colorcoordinated bow ties, breast-pocket handkerchiefs and neckties underscore the importance of quality. The shirt collections are complemented with knit and woven fabric collections that match perfectly.

OLYMP

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MA!N

ALBERTO

Warm, soft, wool and flannel pants experience a big revival and are A L B E R TO ’s trend theme in Winter 2017. But for the outstanding pants label, the zeitgeist always means that the pants’ cuts are changed in some way – sometimes subtly, sometimes radically. This is the case for ‘Baggy,’ the radically modified jogging pants version that wows with waist pleats and casual elastic bands in the waist and hem. In addition, deluxe denims are indispensable styling partners for the coming season. A L B E R TO once again presents a completely fresh program that is beautifully put together and leaves no wishes unfulfilled.

FYNCH-HATTON

Inspired by the personality of the British aristocrat and adventurer Denys Fynch Hatton, the German menswear brand stands for the freedom to live your own style. The new Fall/Winter 2017 collection presents four color themes and inspirations: Boulders Beach combines new blue nuances with rich red tones and mustard colors as an accent. African Safari Club: Berry tones from mauve to lavender are combined with soft earth tones from the African savannah. Smart Casual Cape Town: Cool blue tones like gas and steel blue are mixed with urban elements such as charcoal and stone. Springboks Athleisure: New green nuances are combined with mustard and saffron tones.

MILESTONE

Along the way, things continually re-emerge anew. Directions and perspectives change. Goals too. There’s only one thing that helps us: resetting the compass. Embarking on the next stage in life, even if it’s a small one. Arriving, and continuing – milestone after milestone. The brand M I L E S TO N E stands for the excitement of new beginnings, security and strength. Ever since its founding in 1994, the label has followed its own guiding star: making jacket collections. For people who seek independence and find the absolute essentials: individual development – and the necessary support.

Brand news |

MA!N

Maglificio Liliana

High-quality knitwear – 100% Made in Italy: has made a name for itself in the past in the men’s knitwear segment with its three brands “Impulso,” “Montechiaro” and “Lorenzoni.” “Impulso,” above all, offers fans of sporty elegance the right pieces – the Fall 2017 collection cites elements from the world of sailing. “Lorenzoni” also offers pure elegance, featuring silk and cashmere, which intensifies the exquisite lines of the designs. MAG LI FICIO LI LIANA

In Fall 2017, the brand C O LO U R S & S O N S will once again focus on its core competences: knits and shirts. Inspired by nature and different peoples, a charming collection was created in a subtle ethno look. The brand’s love of delightful contrasts is especially evident in the fabrics used: for example, the finest cashmere pullovers meet coarser denim. Since the name is the program, C O LO U R S & S O N S also uses an extensive color palette in the coming season, ranging from subtle earth tones to intense spice colors.

Colours & Sons

Below, Nils: Trousers, Shirt & Jacket by D I G E L Belt by M A I S O N M A R G I E L A Top, Hugo: Trousers by C A R L G R O S S Shirt by S . O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L M E N Jacket by AT E L I E R T O R I N O Socks by W E E K DAY

boys will be Photography J E S P E R B R A N D T Styling L A R S - F R E D R I K S V E D B E R G

BOYS

Left, Nils: Trousers by

S . O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L M E N Socks by W E E K DAY Hat by B A L D E S S A R I N I Right, Hugo: Trousers by A L B E R T O

Left, Bertil: Tie by D I G E L M O V E Belt by V I N TAG E Shirt & Trousers by

S .O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L M E N Vest by C A R L G R O S S

Right, Hjalmar: Watch by DA N I E L W E L L I N G T O N Hat by B A L D E S S A R I N I Tie by R OY R O B S O N Shirt by S . O L I V E R Cardigan by B E N V E N U T O

Ulf: Short-sleeve shirt by B U G AT T I Vintage silk scarf by B E YO N D R E T R O Trousers by R E D A Vintage cowboy boots by V I N TAG E Leather belt by M A I S O N M A R G I E L A

Hjalmar: Short-sleeve shirt by S . O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L M E N

Trousers by R OY R O B S O N

David: Striped trousers by A L B E R T O

David: Underwear by R E S T E R Ã&#x2013; D S Shirt by O LY M P Jacket by AT E L I E R T O R I N O Socks by W E E K DAY Tie by D I G E L

P H O T O G R A P H E R : J E S P E R B R A N D T @ A DA M S K Y | | S T Y L I S T : L A R S - F R E D R I K S V E D B E R G @ K U LTA R T I S T S | | H A I R : J AC O B K A J R U P @ A DA M S K Y | | M A K E U P : L I N DA S U N D Q V I S T @ A DA M S K Y | | S T Y L I N G A S S I S TA N T : B O J A N R A D E V I C | | P H O T O A S S I S TA N T : F R A N S G A R C I A | | T H A N K S T O : D U S T Y D E C O S T O C K H O L M F O R T H E LO C AT I O N | | M O D E L S : H U G O W E N D E L , B E R T I L L A T E R R A , N I L S W E N D E L , U L F K A R L S S O N , DAV I D K Ã&#x201E; L L E M Y R

Hugo: Underwear by C A L I D A Jacket by D I G E L Shirt & Tie by S . O L I V E R B L AC K L A B E L M E N Shoes by M E LV I N & H A M I LT O N Socks by W E E K DAY

Brand news |

MA!N

WORLD CLASS

The W O R L D C L A S S platform stands for exceptional cocktails, high-class spirits, and celebrates ‘fine drinking culture.’ The W O R L D C L A S S brands include Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Ron Zacapa, Ketel One Vodka, Don Julio Tequila, Bulleit Bourbon and Tanqueray N° TEN. At the W O R L D C L A S S bar at PA N O R A M A B E R L I N , you can immerse yourself in the unique world of W O R L D C L A S S , taste first-class cocktails, experience talented bartenders live and learn more about the high-quality spirits brands. Moreover, the W O R L D C L A S S brand Ketel One Vodka will present its own mobile kitchen and celebrate an absolute classic – the Bloody Mary! In addition to an extraordinary selection of Bloody Mary creations, you can also do your own mixing with the help of an experienced bartender and create drinks according to personal preferences – true to the motto: spicy, sweet, powerful, warming. Put your own twist on a Bloody Mary!

3 6 0 ° FAS H I O N FA I R O N L I N E T H E WO R L D O F FA S H I O N & L I F E ST Y L E

PA N O R A M A D I G I TA L EXPERIENCE THE WORLD‘S FIRST 3 6 0 ° V I RT UA L FA S H I O N T R A D E S H OW

P A N O R A M A - D I G I TA L . C O M

Interview |

MEDIA

D I G I TA L A N D T R A D I T I O N A L – D O T H E Y F I T T O G E T H E R I N T H E M E D I A I N D U S T R Y ? Y E S , S AY D I E T E R S C H O L Z A N D M A R K U S O E S S . W I T H T H E N E W O N L I N E F O R M AT ‘ F A S H I O N T O D AY M E N ,’ T W O W E L L- K N O W N P L AY E R S I N T H E G E R M A N F A S H I O N S C E N E WA N T T O P R O V E T H AT T H E O R Y. B O T H O F T H E M K N O W W H AT T H E Y ’ R E TA L K I N G A B O U T. I N 19 8 9 , S C H O L Z P U B L I S H E D T H E S P E C I A LT Y M A G A Z I N E ‘ F A S H I O N T O D AY.’ O E S S H A S B E E N A S P E C I A L I Z E D J O U R N A L I S T F O R M O R E T H A N 20 Y E A R S A N D F O R Y E A R S , AS E X EC U T I V E ED I TO R , L ED T H E FAS H I O N EDITING TEAMS OF THE PUBLISHING GROUP MARKT INTERN, D Ü S S E L D O R F, I N T H E S E G M E N T S O F M E N ’ S A N D W O M E N ’ S W E A R .

We’re only changing the vehicle Interview R A L F S T R O T M E I E R

Interview |

MEDIA

Left: Dieter Scholz, Acting Editor in Chief Below: Markus Oess, Editor in Chief

What does that mean?

Is print obsolete and does that explain the move toward an online magazine?

Dieter

Scholz: FA S H I O N TO D AY was a high-quality print

magazine. We don’t think that print is obsolete, but reading habits in specialty journalism have rapidly shifted in favor of digital media. So it’s natural to consistently pursue this path and to stop making a distinction between print, newsletter, and e-paper. But we want to be more than just a blog. We want to transform the fundamental idea of a magazine — well-grounded journalism with background research — into digital form. In essence, we’re only changing the vehicle that we use to bring our journalistic content to the reader.

Markus Oess: We’re adapting the basic concept of a specialty magazine and applying it in a modified form to FA S H I O N TO D AY M E N : a clear breakdown of contents into “Title story,” “Production,” “Retail,” and “Briefly reported,” and a monthly publishing schedule. At the same time, we’re deliberately bidding farewell to daily news, which has been completely driven onto smartphones and tablets to create timeliness. Others can do that better. There have always been media that are faster than others. Television, radio, the daily newspaper, weekly journals, monthly magazines and so on. The differentiation takes place in terms of topics and how they are handled. For our part, we focus on one thing, the man. But it doesn’t always have to be about clothing. Possible topics also include sporting goods, personal care, or lifestyle. To our knowledge, we’re the only German-language specialty magazine in the segment. But it’s not an e-paper?

D. Scholz: Downloading is too cumbersome. There are smarter solutions. We firmly believe that the fast data transmission now available on mobile networks means that an online magazine is the way to go. It’s stored on a server you can access any time

day or night without bogging down your device’s memory. But you can also comment on individual articles and share them. We want to keep it simple. Reader navigation is objective and the structure of the pages is adapted to readers’ devices. Annoying clicking and sliding are unnecessary. The reader only has to scroll. But we send out a newsletter twice a month to tease the contents of FA S H I O N TO D AY M E N . Now and then we have to push them so the reader will click on stories that he wanted to read. So you really want to publish only on a monthly basis? Why should readers visit more than once? Digital in particular is rather short-lived.

D. Scholz: That’s true only to a certain extent. First, you don’t actually read a print magazine in one go, and second, the existence of e-books or e-papers is proof that readers definitely consume digital content bit by bit. But content is what counts, and that’s where we put our efforts, with exclusive stories and a new

approach to industry topics. The tenth rehash of a bankruptcy, no matter how important the company, is just not that interesting. But if we can shed some light on some previously unknown backstory and open up new perspectives, then people will read us. In addition, every monthly issue will be online and easily accessible with a click. So there’s enough material to visit us more often. So a pure specialty magazine for retail?

M. Oess: First and foremost we want to entertain our readers with readable stories. Why wouldn’t buyers be interested in where polo comes from and why Argentina, of all places, is the world leader, next to England, although the sport originated around 600 BC in Afghanistan, Iran, Kashmir, and North Pakistan, countries that now have very different concerns? Why shouldn’t we report on an Italian shoemaker or show where impresarios dress themselves? These are stories that could also appear in normal publications for consumption by the general public but that all have something to do with fashion. Many thanks for the interview.

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URBAN LAB

camel active LET’S GET FUNCTIONAL

A C T I V E ’s Functional Travel Wear (FTW) product line focuses on clothing that offers additional functionality. Real functionality is not just defined by materials and design. The focus is on ergonomics and lightness.

CAM E L

The highlight of the FTW segment is a 2-in-1 travel jacket including welded seams and a light-down camouflage inner jacket. Another novelty: a rubber jersey parka, which has water-repellent as well as slightly flexible properties. Bomber jackets and field jackets with neoprene inserts provide flexibility. A padded parka with a boxy silhouette brings modern spaciousness with it. In addition, ergonomic cuts allow for

tremendous freedom of movement in every situation – a great relief for the joints. The ideal companion for those transitional times is a durable raincoat made of rubber fabric with taped seams. Lightweight jackets are lined with a new fiber called Fibrefill, which provides excellent heat insulation.

THERMOLITE yarn and bonded jersey turn the new FTW pullovers and cardigans into insulating, waterrepellent items for all-around use. Hoodies and fleece jackets that are ultralight but also warm you up round off the collection. A denimlike model with an iron-on appliqué, jogging chinos with an elastic waistband, and a cargo-inspired model – these are the new functional pants solutions from C A M E L ACTIVE.

Brand profile |

URBAN LAB

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URBAN LAB

Casual Friday

The Danish menswear label C A S U A L F R I D AY takes Scandi-cool menswear to the next level. Thanks to fine workmanship, sharp silhouettes and great fits, every item in the label’s collection celebrates Scandinavian coolness and elegance. The simplicity about every look and style is instantly recognizable, making the collection diverse. Cool guys don’t dress to impress, they dress to express what it’s all about: Feeling good about yourself and making your appearance look more sophisticated with the right details. Feeling good always means looking good and that’s the aim of C A S U A L F R I D AY .

BLENDⓇⓇ

B L E N D is contemporary affordable fashion with a focus on workmanship, product detail and profitability. A denim brand that’s cool, less predictable, and a more affordable alternative.

Visit us at the fairs: Panorama Berlin 17-19 January 2017 stand nr.: 3.13

Modefabriek Amsterdam 22-23 January 2017

Momad Metropolis Madrid 3-5 February 2017

Fashion Business Days Sweden 7-10 February 2017

WWW.NOâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;EXCESS.COM

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URBAN LAB

No Excess

Based in Amsterdam, the Dutch label has already stood for a Dutch passion for menswear since 1988. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s credo is to produce uncomplicated and affordable menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion. The N O E X C E S S look stands for a down-to-earth attitude: simple, strong, sophisticated. The N O E X C E S S design team draws inspiration from all corners of the world and translates these into a cool, timeless style for everyday wear. The looks are definitely modern, but also always comfortable and very wearable. A modern fit for the modern man!

COLORADO DENIM is pure denim. Our great passion for the blue fabric can be seen in the new Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection. The jeans manufacturer offers an authentic and fashionable collection with cool styles for women, men and kids. The tops reflect the contemporary spirit of modern urban heroes and match the pants perfectly. The C O LO R A D O D E N I M world has expanded by adding something new: a small bag and shoe collection with trendy sneakers and bags. The accessories range has been extended with the addition of cuddly knit scarves. For the first time in July and August, C O LO R A D O D E N I M will offer a special service: package deals with 10 to 15 styles and an attractive 3.0 calculation for women, men and kids. The NOS program is flexible and powerful. The bottom line: With C O LO R A D O D E N I M , retailers can have a powerful impact in their retail spaces. C O LO R A D O D E N I M

camel active

presents menswear-inspired looks for the woman. A mix of urban workwear combined with military details characterizes the collection. Tailored fits give the clothing a feminine twist. Functional features and an innovative combination of materials create modern casual outdoor styles. A relaxed uniform look can be seen in the C A M E L A C T I V E womenswear line, since the highlights in the Fall/Winter 2017 season are utility-inspired wool cabans. Military influences in the form of double-breasted jackets and voluminous coats made of structured wool add a masculine note. The knitwear, wool fabrics, and wool optic textile trend are suitable for the cool season. CAM E L ACTIVE

Come and visit! True Denim in hall 3

shop online mustang-jeans.com

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URBAN LAB

JACK’S SPORTSWEAR INTL J A C K ’ S S P O R T S W E A R I N T L provides the modern man with the casual wardrobe to lead an adventurous and active lifestyle. The brand philosophy basically stems from the wish to dress men casually and to make them feel confident, comfortable and sporty, at the same time. Inspired by the classic 60s British and American university style, the styles are sharp, distinct and handsome. J A C K ’ S S P O R T S W E A R I N T L stands for authentic casual looks that are comfortable, cool and sporty.

Shine Original

The S H I N E O R I G I N A L collection is a hybrid of denim and fashion themes, emphasizing the diversity of individuality. Style and personality have no rules, no code – nor does S H I N E O R I G I N A L . Individuality means creating your own identity and knowing the importance of individual style and personal image. The S H I N E O R I G I N A L team consists of strong individuals who travel, who explore new music, places and art, and find inspiration in everything around them. The Danish menswear label strives to continually develop new fabrics, trimmings and inspiration to create collections that offer attitude, aesthetics, coolness and diversity on several levels and at an affordable price.

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PME Legend

T H E R E ’ S N O S U C H T H I N G A S B A D W E AT H E R , O N LY U N S U I T A B L E C L O T H I N G . For P M E L E G E N D , the protagonist is the cargo pilot who sets the collection’s tone. That means the collection is solid, durable, comfortable, and made to withstand harsh conditions. Functionality comes first for the cargo pilot’s journey. The clothes must serve him and protect him from the elements. Inside his aircraft, the parts that the pilot needs to see right away are highlighted in different colors. Tools and other important components are highlighted in red and yellow. These “signal colors” are also featured in the winter collection. With blue and gray base colors, the highlights are in red and yellow, for example, inside a winter jacket or on a shirt’s border trim. Functionality comes first for the jacket collection, which includes lightweight pieces, water-repellent fabric and insulating materials that can withstand temperatures as low as -60 ° C. The design behind the jackets by P M E L E G E N D is always inspired by authentic “vintage aviation” styles. The jeans collection combines a rough look with the ultimate comfort. Black and gray washes set the tone.

URBAN LAB

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URBAN LAB

MUSTANG

The best you can be is â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to be yourself. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why M U S TA N G focuses on a thoroughly honest denim philosophy with genuineness and originality at the forefront. For women, the key look for the upcoming Fall/Winter season is defined by a new generation of stretch fabrics in the pants area: fabrics that look sturdy and stiff, yet are elastic and soft. For men, the focus is on cropped denims made from solid stretch materials.

VISIT US IN HALL 3, STAND 14 AND ENJOY TRUE ITALIAN FASHION, ESPRESSO AND ANTIPASTI

GARCIAJEANS.COM

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Lindbergh

The Danish menswear brand L I N D B E R G H creates products with a history behind them, which it’s interested in passing on to its customers. The collection, divided into three areas – Black Label, Blue Label and White Label – is aimed at the modern man who knows what’s going on, who is firstly supposed to look good in the clothing, and for a considerable time. L I N D B E R G H makes fashion for men who are interested in a solution-oriented wardrobe, who look for cool styles that suit their lives.

Noize

makes clothes for smart, straightforward guys that love to bend a rule or two. Celebrating life with a healthy sense of humor, these guys are ready to conquer the world. When it comes to clothes, they look for relaxed fits and masculine fabrics. They love clean-cut designs, yet go for original patterns and prints. Since money doesn’t grow on trees, N O I Z E has attractive prices that leave room for the things that are really important in life: the latest sneakers, the latest gadgets, and hanging out with friends.

NOIZE

INDICODE JEANS

was founded as a pure denim brand, but today consists of a full collection for a casual everyday look with tops, non-denims, jackets and shirts. The strength and core competence of I N D I C O D E J E A N S is still the denim section. The inspiration is found on the street, in fashion blogs, and in the music environment, where you find a bit of street style and rock’n’roll. All styles are relaxed, cool and street-sharp, and are always available in a wide range of contemporary colors. INDICODE JEANS

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Crosshatch

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Born of humble Mancunian roots in the year 2000, C R O S S H AT C H started life as a denim and T-shirt brand defining itself from the crowd with illustrative graphics, bold color and innovative denim styles. Within months, the brand became a major player in independent and key national retailers. C R O S S H AT C H has always taken its inspiration from the scene that surrounds it and with Manchester being a hotbed of young talented musicians, DJs and art venues, ideas and direction are always just around the corner. C R O S S H AT C H clothing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; forward thinking.

Starting with the Fall/Winter 2017/2018 season, Italian denim-label G A R C I A J E A N S presents an extended outerwear collection. A dedicated team of outerwear specialists, designers, fit technicians and experienced buyers was assembled to develop a complete range of jackets. In this range, G A R C I A J E A N S makes a clear distinction between core and fashion jackets. The base of this range is divided into diverse shapes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from parkas, pea coats, puffer jackets and utility jackets to outspoken statement pieces. The G A R C I A J E A N S outerwear collection embodies the typical and refined Garcia signature. With a strong focus on high-quality materials and fits, a high standard for a great price is assured. Since the climate changes, every jacket will be available at 3 different delivery times. To keep a long story short, G A R C I A J E A N S keeps you warm throughout the year.

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FREAKY NATION

The cult leather jacket label presents its new campaign face: Hana Nitsche – a VIP with international fashion expertise and long-term catwalk and fashion shoot experience. In Germany, Hana is above all known for her 2007 participation in GNTM (Germany’s Next Top Model) as well as for numerous campaigns, editorial shoots, and as a very popular model. She graced the cover of magazines such as “Glamour,” “FHM,” “GQ” (Italy) and “Women’s Health” (USA). Recently, Hana was voted No. 1 in the HOT 100 list as the most beautiful woman of the year 2016 by “Maxim” magazine.

Always up to date, always connected, always authentic. For people who live in the moment, who communicate style, and who like to make a statement. The brand stands for casual, urban fashion with exceptional cuts and innovative looks for women and men. The focus is also on collaborating with changing brand ambassadors and brands. One highlight is the collaboration with the internationally successful DJ Robin Schulz, whose second capsule collection appears this fall.

Q/S designed by

LYDC LONDON

VISIT HALL 6.25

www.pegasustrading.eu

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a southern ROMANCE I â&#x20AC;&#x2122; VE GOT YOU UNDER MY SKIN

Photography H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I Styling H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I & J U L I A Q U A N T E

Aiysha: Jacket by M O R E & M O R E Pants by M AV I Stefano: T-Shirt by G R E YS T O N E Jacket by T O M TA I LO R D E N I M Pants by C O LO R A D O D E N I M

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Left page, Aiysha: Shirt by W R A N G L E R Pants by M AV I Boots by PAV E M E N T Right page, Aiysha: Jacket by R O C K A N G E L Pants by O U I Stefano: Jacket by C O LO R A D O D E N I M Shirt by W R A N G L E R Pants by A L B E R T O

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left page, Aiysha: Pullover by

Q / S D E S I G N E D BY

Pants by C O LO R A D O D E N I M Stefano: T-Shirt by WR ANGLER

Shirt by M U S TA N G Pants by A L B E R T O Right page, Aiysha: Sweatshirt by E I G H T 2 N I N E Pants by B S B J E A N S Shirt by W R A N G L E R Shoes by F R A N S A

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Left page, Aiysha: Bag by M O L LY B R AC K E N Top by B R OA D WAY Shorts by T O M TA I LO R D E N I M Belt by M A R C C A I N Right page, Aiysha: Shirt by M O L LY B R AC K E N Shorts by M A Z E Shoes by F R A N S A Stefano: Long-Sleeve T-Shirt by GARCIA JEANS

Pants by P M E L E G E N D Shirt by M U S TA N G Shoes by C A M E L AC T I V E

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Stefano: Shirt by WR ANGLER

Pants by B L U E M O N K E Y Belt by M U S TA N G Aiysha: Sweatshirt by EIGHT2NINE

Pants by B L U E M O N K E Y

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Left page, Aiysha: Jacket by F R E A K Y N AT I O N Playsuit by C O LO R A D O D E N I M Shoes by F R A N S A Right page, Stefano: Shirt by W R A N G L E R

Vest by S .O L I VER B L AC K L AB EL Pants by N AG A N O Belt by M U S TA N G

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Left page, Stefano: Sunglasses by R AY B A N Polo Shirt by B E N S H E R M A N Pants by A L B E R T O Right page, Aiysha: Jacket by B E N C H Bodysuit by R O C K A N G E L Pants by F R I T Z I A U S PREUSSEN

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Left page, Aiysha: Shirt by W R A N G L E R Pants by B .YO U N G Blouse on the clothesline by R U E D E F E M M E Right page, Stefano: Hoodie by C O LO U R S A N D S O N S T-Shirt by B E N C H Shorts by B E N S H E R M A N Sunglasses by R AY B A N

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Left page, Stefano: Hat by C H I L LO U T S Shirt by B E N S H E R M A N Pants by C R O S S J E A N S Shoes by C A M E L AC T I V E Right page, Aiysha: Jacket by M A Z E T-Shirt by B L U E S E V E N Shorts by G A R C I A J E A N S

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Left page, Aiysha: Jacket by C U LT U R E Dress by B S B J E A N S Shoes by B R O N X Right page, Aiysha: Jacket by F R E A K Y N AT I O N Shorts by C R O S S J E A N S Stefano: T-Shirt by C A M E L AC T I V E Pants by M AV I

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Left page, Stefano: T-Shirt by G R E YS T O N E Jacket by T O M TA I LO R D E N I M Pants by C O LO R A D O D E N I M Shoes by C A M E L AC T I V E Right page, Stefano: Shirt by O LY M P T-Shirt by G R E YS T O N E Shorts by R E D P O I N T Shoes by C A M E L AC T I V E Aiysha: Shirt by B S B J E A N S Overalls by B E N C H Shoes by F L I P * F LO P

P H O T O G R A P H E R : H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I | | S T Y L I S T : H E I KO L A S C H I T Z K I & J U L I A Q U A N T E | | H A I R & M A K E U P S T Y L I S T : L AT I S H A N I C H O L S O N @ B LO S S O M M A N AG E M E N T | | M O D E L S : A I YS H A @ D E B O E K E R S & S T E FA N O @ I Z A I O M A N AG E M E N T

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Fashion

POP

E V ER S I N C E FAS H I O N S H OWS H AV E C O M E TO R E S E M B L E PUBLIC HAPPENINGS ORGANIZED A R O U N D T H E M O S T S P E C TA C U L A R I N S TA G R A M P I C T U R E , E V E N H I G H FA S H I O N , A S PA R T O F T H E M E D I A - D R I V E N E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N D U S T R Y, H A S S T R I P P E D I T S E L F D O W N T O A S I M P L E , E A S I LY C O N S U M A B L E C O M M O D I T Y.

What a curious spectacle awaited the guests in February of last year at the Yeezy show, which presented the collection of Kanye West in collaboration with adidas: For about 60 minutes, hundreds of extras and models stood entirely motionless and stared at the audience in a type of refugee-fashion-performance choreographed by Vanessa Beecroft. A rapper, while presenting his new album called “The Life of Pablo,” jumped wildly back and forth across the stage. And in the front row sat Carine Roitfeld, Anna Wintour, Riccardo Tisci, Olivier Rousteing, Karlie Kloss, the Kardashians, and 50 Cent, who most likely were more exciting to watch for the 20,000 people attending the show at Madison Square Garden and the innumerable viewers in more than 700 movie theaters in 23 countries all across the globe, than the fashion on show. Oh yeah, right, the fashion… You could see that too, somehow. But hardly anyone remembers what it looked like because of all the hype.

Agreed, the world of fashion can hardly be reduced to the megalomania of one single American pop star, and yet, Kanye West’s public mass spectacle does reveal what really counts in the fashion business today, in the age of social media: Choreography instead of ideas; visual reproducibility instead of artistic creativity. Fashion has grown into a global entertainment industry – and, for some time now, the stuff it delivers no longer consists solely of clothes. In other words: There’s no business without show business. And so, Marc Jacobs, almost self-reflectively, allowed his models to step in front of the sponsorship banner at the Ziegfeld Theater and to walk across the red carpet on the sidewalk for the finale – surrounded by hundreds of screaming and picture-taking fans on 54th Street. Rick Owens, actually an exceptionally gifted designer, replaced the handbags, jewelry and scarves usually decorating his models with living people draped over their shoulders. And the Maison Valentino, not really known for loud performance gigs, granted permission to Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson to use its

by N I C O L E U R B S C H AT

show stage to promote their movie “Zoolander 2” – and this is how it got to be the talk of the season – even when no one had anything specific to say about the collection. And Chanel? They’re not above building replicas of icebergs, Paris bistros, supermarkets, or even an entire airport terminal including check-in counters just to send the photos of models and celebrities framed by spectacular stage sets around the world. Since you’ve got to make news if you want to remain relevant. Beautiful piping, exquisite drapery or perfect proportions? That’s not news. Social media bombshells Kendall Jenner (44 m Instagram followers), Cara Delevingne (24 m) and Gigi Hadid (10 m) as invited guests, maybe one more collaboration with an artist or a musician, art exhibitions, playlists? – those always work. “Fashion has become pop,” concluded Raf Simons in his final interview shortly before he suddenly resigned from Dior in 2015. In the past, he continued, this had been an elitist discipline. And in fact, suddenly the whole world can participate in something that used to be hermetically sealed, because thanks to the Internet everyone can now get a glimpse behind the scenes.

Editorial |

For sure, it started in the 1980s that fashion with all its trappings – the glamour, the beautiful people – became extremely popular, but only insiders and an audience composed of experts in the field really knew what was going on. Nowadays, however, fashion shows are live streamed, designers are looking for models on Instagram and post from their studios, or even live from their living rooms. “This world no longer speaks to only those people who know about fashion,” comments renowned fashion historian Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute in New York. “Those who follow sports don’t necessarily do sports themselves either.” She is right. Experts are

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Whoever still believes that this is a utopian fairy tale should have attended what used to be the industry’s professional trade fair “Bread & Butter” that was held last September in Berlin. In 2015 it was taken over by online fashion retailer Zalando. This event revealed how much fashion these days has become a mass spectacle. For a cut-rate entry fee of €15, the fair – true to the Latin motto “panem et circenses”: bread and (circus-) games on the River Spree – let the “normals” in and do the finishing on their jeans themselves, or admire the looks of Hugo (after all, Hugo Boss’ second line) or Topshop on the runway, and of course – go shopping ASAP on the Internet. The question raised by all these developments, though, is this: What happens to fashion, when it suddenly has to be easily accessible and available to everybody equally? When everybody can comment on it as though it were a European Championship final? When, what we really need – and precisely because of fashion’s ability to decode and express the current cultural climate – is experts to understand why it is cool to wear a jacket inside-out or to look like a homeless person! Fashion these days is no longer allowed to

keep secrets. It is supposed to be subject to quick comprehension and fast sales. That design and craft are occasionally left by the wayside – sorry! By the way, it was Hedi Slimane, the artistic-intellectual medium of the 2000s, who had the best nose for this new form of fashion. His Saint Laurent collections perfectly captured the mood and values of our current age, the need for simple messages, the triumph of branding. Like no other, he simplified the statement of his fashions down to the point that his collections acquired the attitude of a hip streetwear label – as if he wanted to liberate himself from the conventional aims pursued by designers: to create modern, conceptually and intellectually sustainable fashions. Instead, he

offered uncomplicated, commercial fashions that allowed women to quickly identify with them. Surprise creations? Slimane simply refused them while replacing them with innovative music, bombastic light installations and cool model castings just for the wow effect. A Saint Laurent show has always been more stage than runway, so that when he left the French brand, even his most vociferous antagonist, fashion critic Cathy Horyn, conceded that “if we suppose that fashion holds up the mirror to the age – and I do – then we have to admit that Hedi Slimane has been impressive in this regard, even prescient.” And this is why these days no one attending a fashion show – where the auditorium is dark, the stage is lit with harsh, bright lights and the music is blasting as though this were a rock concert – is interested any more whether a skirt seam is visible, a dart is located on the outside of a garment or a sleeve has been sewn in place by hand. Neither are there any more observer-reporters in the audience who would be interested in the art of tailored cuts or finishing. Instead, there are nothing but instant multipliers – or, as Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing said to the “New Yorker”: “It is too bad for critics if they cannot understand this, but

the truth is now that their critiques do not matter.” Reflections on the creations such as critics used to write after a show no longer work because they don’t fit next to a hashtag. No high art of the cut then, only “simple products” with striking patterns and appliqué work that reveal their effect not only when they are worn but in stamp-size pictures posted on Instagram – this is what even high fashion is supposed to be nowadays, in the age of entertainment mania: Clothes that function like pop art – be it in the form of French-fry-containershaped bags and a hot pink Barbie Collection (Moschino by Jeremy Scott), or a supposedly intellectual, zeitgeist-astute set of slogans printed on hoodies by Vetements. Easy to recognize, easy to understand, easy to consume – like an airy pop song that dissolves all tension and turns it into pleasure.

already prophesying that soon fashion shows will turn into gigantic spectacles with admission tickets like those that are sold at football games or concerts.

STAND 2.45

www.alberto-pants.com

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ana alcazar

With its new collection, the Munich designer label A N A A LC A Z A R goes on the warpath. The creations for Winter 2017/2018 are directed against eternal sameness. They speak out for diversity and celebrate individuality: The “True Rebel” theme sets the tone, counteracting the zeitgeist rather than just serving as a reflection of it. True rebels don’t know rules or boundaries – just like the collection, which always looks classy while skillfully citing punky or rocky elements. Unconventional cuts with exciting appliqués, eye-catching prints on the finest fabrics and surprising stylistic mixes give the dresses, coats, jumpsuits and culottes their profoundly cool appeal – while turning the looks into iconic styles. “For us, rebellion is about remaining open-minded, about continually setting out to explore; it is about questioning existing things and thereby reinventing ourselves. Anyone who follows trends without a strong will cannot provide any inspiration,” say the designers Be and Ju Ilzhöfer.

LUISA CERANO SHOWROOM · KAISERSWERTHER STRASSE/KARL-ARNOLD-PLATZ 1 · 40474 DÜSSELDORF HEAD OFFICE LUISA CERANO GMBH · WEBERSTRASSE 1 · 72622 NÜRTINGEN · GERMANY · PHONE +49(0)7022/705-140 · INFO@LUISACERANO.DE

W W W. L U I S AC E R A N O . C O M

STANDNUMMER 4.01

A N ZE I G E

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In these changing times, where what is modern is short-lived while slow fashion exists in a parallel dimension, the B E AT E H E Y M A N N label is situated in the timeless space of traditional values such as tailoring and delight in experimentation. Craftsmanship combined with creativity and passion allow for the creation of timeless favorites that the wearer will have for a long time – all made in the company’s own workshop. In Collection 49, the current collection for Fall/Winter 2017/2018, the magic of couture and the fast pace of the street fuse in what can be called a special combination of elegance and sportiness. Gold and silver accents, crystal elements, embroidery appliqués, unusual piping and other intricate details give the collection a special flair and reawaken nostalgic yearnings for untarnished pageantry. Unusual cuts and imaginative fabric compositions are the result of a special creativity catering primarily to the stylish and self-confident customer while clearly conveying the message of the label’s individuality.

Beate Heymann Delicate colors like cashmere, silver and pebble that contrast with amarone, titanium and black, as well as high-quality workmanship, are the credo for the premium line F R E A K Y N AT I O N E D G E – feminine, modern, optimistic, special and innovative, for a unique self-confident woman. For the Winter 2017/2018 season, the concise collection again includes very light yet warm models in shearling lambskin. Lightweight short coats and elegant trench-coat style jackets, as well as a cape, give the elaborate collection a unique, luxurious look. For festive occasions, there are discreet, shiny metallic pieces for indoors, which are made of seductively soft leather.

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s.Oliver BLACK LABEL Women

Dressed. Contemporary. Sophisticated. S.OLIVE R B LACK LAB E L WOM E N

stands for a wide range of special event and business fashion. The brand elegantly combines luxurious fabrics with classic, stylish cuts and high wearing comfort. In the Fall/Winter 2017/2018, fashionable influences are translated into wearable clothing that wows with high-quality fabrics, precious color statements and great attention to detail. The focus is on sophisticated, sporty athleisure styles. The labelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s key statement is thus a contrast between clean optics and opulent, decorative styles.

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IMPERIAL

From elegance to extravagance, I M P E R I A L wows you, never losing sight of the stylistic demands it sets for itself. I M P E R I A L uses unique cuts, fabrics and their combinations, creating a distinctive look. Like its denim I M P line, all collections are 100% Made in Italy. A mixture of energy and positivity with a focus on the softer side of contemporary style is what characterizes I M P E R I A L fashion and makes every woman shine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; modern, strong, imperial!

LUISA CERANO

L U I S A C E R A N O excites confident women with an individual style all over the world. Its trademark is its unmistakable feminine-casual silhouette, which is reinterpreted in an innovative and contemporary manner each season. L U I S A C E R A N O products reflect an individual understanding of femininity, sportiness and comfort. The brand is also distinguished by its reasonable prices and high design and quality standards, which give it a special position in the premium market segment.

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C O NTE M P O RARY LU X U RY

MUCHO GUSTO

The Dutch designer Monique van Berkel has been creating unique fashion from high-quality fabrics for more than ten years. Inspired by her extensive travels through Europe, the M U C H O G U S TO collections are characterized by different influences and inspirations – and are favorite pieces with unique character. Luxurious silk scarves are the focus of every collection. Fashionable patterns are creatively interpreted. Lovely details make every scarf an individual highlight. The use of carefully selected fabrics and materials and the use of premium Italian silk as well as local, handmade production guarantee high-quality items.

Dixie

skillfully transgresses stylistic boundaries, creating distinctive looks. London attitude and an avant-garde lifestyle dominate the look that makes D I X I E so unique. With an expressive touch, D I X I E underscores the personality of every woman, giving her the feeling that anything is possible. Individuality, inspiration and joie de vivre are the three essential components that define every collection. Flexibility and a wealth of variety drive D I X I E ahead and determine the tempo. Every woman who wears D I X I E is full of power and at the same time exudes a modern elegance. DIXIE

NADINE H

Since 1981, N A D I N E H stands for fashionable blouses with high-quality workmanship, charming details and a reliable fit – made exclusively in Europe. The label is like its customers: authentic and contemporary. N A D I N E H has been on the market for over 25 years and is a real “hidden champion” that skillfully reinterprets the blouse every season, making it the ideal companion for daily wear and many beautiful occasions.

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PLEASE

is one of the most popular denim brands for strong, confident and fashionable women. The brand’s designs are known for the silver metal heart on the back right pocket. P L E A S E continually reinvents its designs in new fits and denim washes. In addition to the unique pants, P L E A S E , above all, impresses with the modern cuts, fabrics and styles of its outerwear. P L E A S E combines sexiness, style and nonchalance with agility and femininity, thus knowing how to spot the new among a wide range of modern creations and trends. P L E A S E is 100 percent Made in Italy.

PLEASE

TONI

In Fall/Winter 2017, the look for TO N I mainly revolves around different pant lengths – in the skinny pants, cigarette styles, slim and straight cut pants. Made of high-performance fabrics, the different variations turn the pants into the season’s key pieces. At the forefront are stable jersey and techno-stretch fabrics that ensure that the garments fit perfectly while retaining a nice, casual look. With side-stripe track pants, wide shapes and indoor jackets, the styles get a smart, hip look. Hooded sweaters and jackets with pockets made of knit and jersey reflect a casual attitude. Stand-up collar pullovers in comfortable oversized shapes are increasingly gaining in importance. These pieces can only warm your heart.

Emily van den Bergh

Anyone who says Emily means nice blouses. The top label from the new mainstream segment has established itself as a permanent fixture in the blouse world. The collection’s fresh, playful and, above all, independent signature style is very popular. New trends are incorporated into the familiar E M I LY look, making customers’ hearts beat faster. Let yourself be impressed and captivated! Discover E M I LY V A N D E N B E R G H at the PA N O R A M A B E R L I N trade show in Hall 4!

17. - 19. JANUAR 2017

PANORAMA BERLIN

HALL 4 / STAND 4.32

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Day Birger et Mikkelsen

Since its founding in 1997, the Danish fashion label D AY B I R G E R E T M I K K E L S E N has established itself as a global, design-driven company with various collections. These consist of the brand’s main line called D AY W O M E N , its younger 2 N D D AY line that was launched in 2011, as well as the interior and lifestyle collection called D AY H O M E , which has been available since 2005. The label’s vision is to merge folklore influences from around the world with Scandinavian simplicity, masculine tailoring, and vintage-inspired styles. The result is a luxurious mixture of modern classics, exquisite craftsmanship, embellished details, and inventive and surprising elements.

Lieblingsstück

For more than six years, the German label L I E B L I N G S S T Ü C K has been making emotional fashion with a love of detail and a focus on knitwear. The innovative knit pieces are complemented by a trend-conscious blouse and shirt collection. Every month, the label creates new “favorite pieces” that are known for their structures, lacing and special finishes. The L I E B L I N G S S T Ü C K collection is rounded off with refined print shirts, lace blouses and striped blouses. With its sporty, casual design, L I E B L I N G S S T Ü C K speaks to modern, self-assured women, who have fun with fashion and enjoy the beautiful details the brand is known for.

The “Blaustoff ” and “Tragestoff ” collections by H E R R L I C H E R have been on the market since 2004: For every piece in the collection, the brand only uses the best fabrics to manufacture the finest textiles. Every item is carefully checked before receiving the H E R R L I C H E R quality seal. The perfect fit has always been the hallmark of H E R R L I C H E R ’s “Blaustoff ” collection, guaranteeing a timeless and perfectly fitting product that is rounded off by gorgeous blouses, dresses, T-shirts, knitwear and jackets.

Herrlicher

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New times are upon us: Fashion is becoming more important again. After the pure, clean looks of past seasons, opulence and richness with velvet, ornamental prints, embroidery and frills are setting new accents. The counter look is influenced by activewear with its zippers and drawstrings. These various styles and directions are mixed with familiar, relaxed casual deluxe elements, creating new looks. The promising headline of the new B I A N C A . collection is: Enthusiasm, temperament and feeling!

bianca

Stehmann

Everyday opulence is rendered in a firework of fabrics and complemented with luxurious elements in the form of opulent buttons and ribbons as well as jacquards with cozy lurex in exciting variations: leopard prints, graphic designs as well as ornaments in floral, fancy and tapestry motifs reflect a modern opulence. The S T E H M A N N ladies’ trousers specialist focuses on slim versions and baby boot cuts, while the many different silhouettes are complemented by baggy pants, track pants and pajama pants.

Risy& Jerfs

If you never try – you’ll never know. Time for new things. This is what the label’s creators were thinking when they created their new blouse label R I S Y & J E R F S . Cool, trendy, up to date, more fancy, edgy and hip – that’s the collection’s statement. Every item is something special. The cuts are more extreme and the designs saucier. R I S Y & J E R F S is the third label by Fashion Pure alongside E M I LY V A N D E N B E R G H and TO N N O & PA N N A .

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Barbara Becker This is the first time that the B A R B A R A B E C K E R collection is consistently implementing a sports theme. Influenced by the athleticwear gigatrend from the US and Barbara Becker's active lifestyle, a wide selection of sportswear and loungewear is offered under the label “B A R B A R A B E C K E R Miami Fit.” This fits seamlessly into the existing casual and wellness collection.

Marc Cain

The Fall/Winter collections show a casual, easy-towear style with a touch of couture. Important sources of inspiration are fitness and running. This stems from the current athleisure trend, which is behind the dynamic touches on the urban outfits. The brand’s latest project: In cooperation with documentary filmmaker Matto Barfuss, M A R C C A I N created a capsule collection with prints of the cheetah Maleika for the film “Maleika – Once I’m a Big Cat.” Cinema release: Fall 2017.

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eve in paradise

E V E I N PA R A D I S E : feminine, casually elegant, with great attention to detail. Unique knit patterns, gentle fabrics, clear shapes, subtle colors and well-coordinated accessories underscore the label’s uncomplicated look that is naturally beautiful. With exceptional designs and high-quality natural materials such as yak, alpaca and merino wool, silk and cashmere, E V E I N PA R A D I S E creates an exclusive world of modern knitwear that stands out from the conventional one, giving the individual woman a confident look that is simply beautiful.

APART

A PA R T – the “must-see” at the PA N O R A M A B E R L I N Fall/Winter 2017 in Hall 4, Stand 05! Inspired by the rich colors of autumn, A PA R T

fashion plays with fine cuddly and shiny varieties. Fascinating and new: That’s how A PA R T Glamour is presented. Creations made of the finest fabrics such as brocade, velvet and lace captivate with beautiful, flattering cuts, always promising an elegant appearance. The product of A PA R T ’s first cooperation with S W A R O V S K I , the star-sparkling fashion dreams are simply bound to cause a stir.

Raffaello Rossi

The new R A F FA E L LO R O S S I collection is characterized by a self-assured and individual fashion aesthetic. The garments continue to be very feminine with a focus on flattering fits and statement-making looks. Recalling the eighties, velvet celebrates a big comeback. The finest jersey panne velvet is presented romantically with an imaginative floral print on wide-cut Marlene pants. Jacquard impresses with a lot of refinement – in fascinating multicolor floral looks, as a subtle animal print or graphically as a minimal pattern.

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LOVE

Halle 4 Stand 4.30

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ALBERTO woman Always a bit innovative, always a touch modern, always a little bit detail-obsessed: A L B E R TO W O M A N knows the decisive ingredients to make the perfect pair of ladies’ pants. For Winter 2017, the collection by the Mönchengladbach fashion label is all about wool and ceramica themes and perfectly designed pants that keep you stylishly warm. Sometimes retro, sometimes rockin’ and then sporty, cozy or even luxurious again, A L B E R TO skillfully masters the balancing act between fine and tough. The beautiful proof: The many great key looks – each one is a real statement in-itself!

IMP Uomo&Donna by IMPERIAL

I M P B Y I M P E R I A L is the denim line by the world-famous label I M P E R I A L . I M P doesn’t take a passive approach to the times we live in, but knows how

to keep on developing – with a combination of tradition, inquisitive spirit and creativity. Looking back on over 30 years of experience, I M P U O M O & D O N N A produces ten collections annually – all 100% Made in Italy. Created for the fashion-conscious, unconventional man of today and the casual avant-garde woman, the cuts, fabrics and models are characterized by a willingness to experiment. This is what sets the brand’s urban, ultramodern, trend-setting style apart from others.

A N ZE I G E

HALLE 4 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; STAND 4.28

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Atelier GARDEUR Woman The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 will be opulent: For the first delivery in July, dusty, smoky non-colors and soft rosé make for a trendy color atmosphere. Pale washed, ankle-length denim pants feature opulent decorations such as elaborate brocade strips and rhinestone appliqués. “Renew” is the buzzword: Rich decoration is used to reinterpret the vintage look – brocade and embellishments disrupt the authentic used-look here. Embroidered birds of paradise on pale denims and multi-colored embroidery in combination with shiny metal appliqués exude a sense of luxury. Baroque rose motifs on washed denim make for a mix of hipness and opulence. Jacquards are presented in 70s style with motifs that are clearly bigger or with magnificent tapestry prints, creating a desire for the August and September deliveries to arrive.

e v e i n paradise

Halle 4, Stand 4.47.2 www.eve-in-paradise.de info@eve-in-paradise.de

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LAKRIDS by Johan Bülow It was in 2007, when Johan Bülow, who was just 23 at the time, discovered his love of licorice on the small Danish vacation island of Bornholm. The rest is history: Today L A K R I D S by J O H A N B Ü LO W is one of Scandinavia’s best known brands – not just for sweets, but also for new Nordic cuisine. From the beginning, Johan pursued his vision of turning licorice into a culinary experience. All products are made from natural ingredients and are gluten-free – and finally they all contain the most important ingredient of all: lots of love. Watch out, you might get hooked!

Oilily Designing the Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection, O I L I LY stepped into the wonderful world of make-believe: The O I L I LY prints show paintbrush strokes and irregular pasty paint. Subtle and minimal prints are used on fine knits, while more monumental shapes show chunky knits in two-tone textures. The collection is completed using prominent colors such as soft pink, baroque dark red and a bright spectrum of blue tones. You have to see it to believe it!

EKLE’

Made in Italy – that’s what the brand E K L E ’ expresses. It presents a total look that is easy to recognize thanks to clear, strong designs where particular attention is placed on selecting the best fabrics and details. Constantly researching fashion trends as well as quality – these are the main values of E K L E ’ . Based on the desire to create unique items that every woman enjoys wearing, E K L E ’ creates a collection that fuses personality and originality with charm, style and quality.

Halle 4 Stand 4.30 www.yours-emily.com

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Damian Hirschberg A LOV E F O R L I F E A s t ar has been born in t he world of fashion . B erlin - based designer D amien Hirsc hberg presents his first ready-to-wear collection entitled “Live & Love.”

Damien Hirschberg, born in Sri Lanka and raised in Freiburg, studied fashion design at ESMOD, a private university. This meant not only that he was able to give his full attention to his love of creativity by making something unique, but also that he was able to move to the vibrant city of Berlin. He had great success when he showed his first collections in 2012 and 2014 at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Now the 30-year-old designer is off to a fast start with his first ready-towear DOB collection. His logo, the recurring element in all of his pieces, is the key. The key to life is love: a symbol of power, decision-making, curiosity. Every day Damien Hirschberg wears this key, a legacy from his father’s collection. The key is especially important to him

because he feels very close to his father. The key to life: living to love – loving to live. A feeling that he’d like to pass on now in his new urban style collection. “Live & Love”

Hirschberg’s poetic designs are boisterous and striking. When you wear Damien Hirschberg’s fashion, not only do you have the courage to face the unpredictable rollercoaster of life and love, but you also make a conscious decision to embrace the limelight with an extravagant awareness of style. Embroideries, unusual patterns and prints are the hallmark of the collection. At the same time, the individual pieces are wearable and their quality luxurious. And the key is always a part of it all. Sometimes small and hidden, visible only to the wearer of the piece, sometimes all over, visible to everyone. “Live & Love,” with its versatility – from the dress to the biker jacket – is not just a collection, but rather a feel for life, an aff irmation: creativity without limits.

Marc Aurel

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For Fall/Winter 2017/2018, the M A R C A U R E L collection is even more sharply defined. It becomes more pointed with an emphasis on individual pieces and an uncompromisingly individual look. The motto is: authentic looks for authentic women. M A R C A U R E L surprises with new colors and new fabrics, including coarse-textured tweed looks, C H A N E L tweeds, jacquards and checks. New color plays can be seen in stripes and striped blouses, and in striped pants too, conveying a modern look. Prints in matching colors also surface throughout the new collection of authentic looks – in the ethno-looking necktie designs, in the small to large floral patterns, and in the multicolor stripes.

Relaxed by TONI

R E L A X E D B Y TO N I expands its product range for the Fall/Winter 2017 season, complementing it with a premium capsule collection for Christmas and New Year. The premium collection features particularly high-quality fabrics and elaborate details. Swarovski stones sparkle on pant buttons, adding a festive touch of glamour. Gold-coated or gloss-flocked elastic cotton fabrics add some subtle shimmer effects too. “Scuba-Ware” ensures a particularly well-kept look. The capsule collection offers eight models in a variety of different fits.

Noa Noa

creates clothes for the free-spirited woman who is independent and at peace with her femininity and creates her own aesthetic look. N O A N O A is not a trend driven or a conceptual brand but sensitive and intuitive to what it means to be a woman. The Fall 2017 collection is called “Heirloom” and has been inspired by sentimental value and personal aesthetic selections and life tableaus. We have been influenced by the idea of heirlooms and their nostalgic origin and pay homage to the craftsmanship and attention to detail you find in antique clothing whilst still making the garments fresh for today. Timeless, ageless and encouraging sentimental value, the garments in the collection are items created to cherish and hold onto. Qualitative, with high attention to detail and with our trademark design, they are the canvas for your personal story. NOA NOA

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take me to the sea

W H E R E W E C A N B E , J U S T YO U A N D M E

Photography E D G A R B E R G Styling J U L I A Q U A N T E

Blouse by M A R C C A I N Skirt by N OA N OA

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Blouse by E M I LY VA N D E N B E R G H Pants by R A F FA E L LO R O S S I Shoes by VAG A B O N D

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Jacket by N OA N OA Top by N I L E Pants by O I L I LY Shoes by VAG A B O N D

Shirt by B A R B A R A B E C K E R Jeans by R A F FA E L LO R O S S I

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Bag by A N N K U R Z

Coat as Shirt by M I L E S T O N E Skirt by M A R C C A I N

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Left page: Pullover by O U I Skirt by O I L I LY Shoes by K M B Right page: Shirt by L U I S A C E R A N O Pants by N OA N OA

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Dress by A N A A L C A Z A R

Jacket by N A D I N E H Top by N I L E Pants by M A R C A U R E L Shoes by VAG A B O N D

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Left page: Overalls by I C H I Belt by O I L I LY Right page: Dress by S U M M U M W O M A N

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PHOTOG R APH ER : EDG AR B ERG / K LEI N PHOTOG R APH EN FA S H I O N S T Y L I S T & P R O D U C T I O N : J U L I A Q U A N T E / P E R F E C T P R O P S HAIR & MAKEUP : DENNIS BR ANDT / BIGOUDI M O D E L : M A R I N A S A R O V I C / S M C M O D E L M A N AG E M E N T

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THE FARM by ACO B Y FA S H I O N F O R FA S H I O N . T H E N E W DÜS S ELDOR F - BAS ED AG ENCY T H E FA R M B Y A C O I S O F F E R I N G E X T E N S I V E S E R V I C E S T O T H E R E TA I L M A R K E T I N O R D E R T O C R E AT E B U Z Z A B O U T T H E FA S H I O N I N D U S T R Y.

Karin Hammermann, Jane MunroHall, and Michael Schulz are the team of experts behind the new agency T H E FA R M by A C O . The three fashion pros, all of whom have been in business for decades, have created a one-stop shop that commands attention. Whether it’s store design, defining target group, SWOT analysis, company structure analysis, merchandise planning, merchandise management, visual merchandising, or in-house collec tions – from online advertising and communication, HR management, and project planning all the way to procurement, at T H E FA R M by A C O nothing at all is missing when it comes to supporting the customer. Starting with brainstorming and initial designs, from choosing the

best production sites to the completed product – thanks to T H E FA R M ’s large and proven network, the agency offers cooperative relationships with some of the best and most experienced designers, material experts, business people, and producers. The three partners are fortunate enough to access the resources, expertise, and network of one of the most famous and reliable fashion agencies in Europe: the A C O fashion agency with locations in Düsseldorf and Vienna. For more than 40 years, A C O has gained the confidence of brands like Just Cavalli, Peuterey, Versace and many others through its always innovative and serious work. Which is why the structure and managing of brands from a strategic and tactical perspective are also

naturally part of the extensive service portfolio of the young agency. Another unbeatable USP from T H E FA R M by A C O is the option of turnkey, adaptable retail modules that help the retailer transform from a boutique to a contemporary concept store.

Vagabond AW17 Collection Hall no.5, Stand nr. 5.34

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T2Green

– the bag collection that is fashionable, functional and sustainable. A label where the designer focuses on individuality and fashion trends. Sustainably produced, the “Washme Bags” are made of 90 percent cellulose from responsible forestry and 10 percent natural latex. The bag is 100 percent biodegradable. The collection features different color themes and 13 styles ranging from the shopper to the weekender to the clutch.

T2GREEN

Norton

Vanzetti

For anyone looking for eye-catching accessories, the V A N Z E T T I collection is certainly the ideal answer: Small leather goods in a straight, reduced design become something really special through their metallic finish. The minimalistic shape suits both sporty and elegant looks. By contrast, the western-inspired styles are much more ornate: The belts with metal decor look especially good worn in a fitted manner with casual dresses or casually with denim.

“Manufattura Italia” is the credo behind the success of N O R TO N , an Italian family business. N O R TO N ’s accessory creations reflect an Italian attitude towards life, which takes classic elegance with innovative contemporary elements and dresses it in an exclusive design. The products are 100% Made in Italy. With a high level of quality awareness and the finest Italian craftsmanship, N O R TO N presents stylish, elegant winter accessories.

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VISIT US Panorama Berlin

CF 6.15

www.lumisha.de – vertrieb@lumisha.de – 0049 (0) 8709-95447

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NEONNEID

N E O N N E I D offers accessories with a certain “envy factor”: in “pinkovative” or matt black, or a cool souvenir in moon yellow! In addition to the smartphone “skins,” N E O N N E I D offers shoe accessories and clutches (handbags) made of genuine neoprene fabric, as well as sailing rope bracelets and swimwear. Besides the “envy factor,” the highlight is that if you order a certain amount, the products can be customized. N E O N N E I D ’s trademarks are individuality, bright colors and an “envy factor.”

L U M I S H A stands for the casual chic and fluidity that women love so much. Their jewelry, as a single statement piece or in laid-back combinations, is like a charming companion for every day, true to the label’s motto: Lumisha makes every day a lovely day! The basis of its new collection – “The Exotic in the Colonial Jungle” – is built on the delicate colors sand and powder, which are freshened up by Niagara blue and various shades of green.

Lumisha Loud, colorful and with a zest for life. Old school meets the spirit of the times in a philosophy that is lifestyle at the same time. H A P P Y S L I P P E R literally brings a good mood with it – also according to brand ambassador, Komet Bernhard, and for that reason has already gone cult in the capital today. Represented for the first time at Berlin’s Fashion Week, a leading trade fair, the brand is proud to present its best-selling buy-it-now items as well as its new, limited-edition Fall/ Winter 2017 collection – Made in Germany. H A P P Y S L I P P E R : Slippers have never been so beautiful.

Happy Slipper

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Dockers by Gerli It all started in a restaurant in Merzalben in the midst of the Palatinate Forest. Gösta Andersson and Bruno Heim had picked up on a sign of the times: In the mid-eighties, everyone wanted boat shoes. Gerli GmbH decided to get in on this trend and in 1985 produced its first pair of leather loafers. The goal was to make the “D O C K E R S ” affordable for everyone. But the brand actually had its breakthrough with a different type of shoe: D O C K E R S boots. Made in Portugal and Spain, they were particularly resistant due to a Goodyear welted construction. Today the brand stands for fashionable, sporty shoes.

Think! In the late 80s, Martin Koller, the son of a renowned shoemaker family from Upper Austria, was convinced that healthy shoes don’t have to be ugly. So he made it his task to create sustainable shoes in extroverted designs. This was the birth of T H I N K ! – the first and only shoe brand to be awarded the Austrian Ecolabel.

jewelry

Endlos wechseln und kombinieren, iXXXi JEWELRY, Ihr Geschmack, Ihre Kombination.

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Bitte kontaktieren Sie für weitere Informationen unsere Deutschen Handelsagenturen: Watchit 11 BV, De Slof 10, 5107 RJ, Dongen, Niederlande 0031-162311557, info@watchit11.com, www.ixxxi-schmuck.de

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L.CREDI Munich

Since 1953, the successful cult label L . C R E D I M U N I C H has created trend-conscious handbag and accessory collections, always with attention to detail. The fashion line’s recipe for success includes a feeling for new trends, colors and functionality – always with a view to the customer and the way she organizes her everyday life. The collection is inspired by the fashionable, stylish tones that will accompany YOU in the coming season. The models range from elegant women’s business shopper to the beloved all-around handbag and the trendy clutch.

BRONX

With change as the only heritage, the design-team at Bronx tries to not let current trends and design movements dictate every move. Instead the company freely hacks vintage wardrobe staples, or reinterprets catwalk craziness, adding their own Bronx signature edge. Within the collection, Bronx focuses on quality materials and pays close attention to every detail. It is because of this balance between quality and style that Bronx is a key player in the market for high-fashion shoes. Bronx Shoes are designed by a team of specialists from Italy, the Netherlands and the UK. This international approach helps the brand to keep an open mind that is necessary to constantly create innovative collections.

PETER KAISER

In Fall/Winter 2017/2018, P E T E R K A I S E R goes up against the cold European weather with a collection inspired by the art-filled city of Sài Gòn, the city of strolling and exploring. The “Sài Gòn” collection is characterized by mystical colors and also by light and dark contrasts, color gradations, refined block heels, and fine upper materials. Floral patterns are combined with rivets, buckles, borders, fringes, and fur details.

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Bullboxer

Dutch company B U L L B O X E R is all about fashion for the feet. Bullboxer shoes are designed for lively, free-spirited people who want to capture the essence of street style. Passion and quality are the driving forces behind the brand which is convinced that fashion is all about having fun and experimentation. The collection is made out of European quality leathers and handcrafted in Portugal by a team of gifted craftsmen. The B U L L B O X E R product is a reflection of the company’s character, which makes it truly unique and never boring.

SURI FREY A S TO R Y TO T E L L – S U R I F R E Y stands for an artist and designer with international roots. She always signs her artworks with a simple Y, which is also the trademark symbol of her entire unique bag collection. S U R I F R E Y ’s life and creative motto is: “The world belongs to those who think Frey (i.e., freely).” Every bag collection has its very own interior lining designed just for it and thus becomes a highly sought-after collector’s item over the years. Think freely and enjoy!

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Pavement

The essentials for the Fall 2017 season are the feminine trend and details. All shoes are made in natural materials like kid-suede or suede and have a wool lining. The signature look from Pavement shoes has a clear Scandinavian twist with a hint of rawness. The collection completes the girl’s autumn look for the casual chic nights with pumps, booties and sneakers, all handmade in the EU. Pavement shoes is a full line of great shoes – let’s take a walk on the pavement.

House of Envy

After the brand’s successful launch in December 2016, H O U S E O F E N V Y will present its first Fall /Winter 2017/2018 collection. Shoppers, doctor bags, and tiny bucket bags will be presented in a beautiful new look. Carefully selected materials and lovingly applied details give the bags a certain joie de vivre and grace. The collection’s highlight is the versatile Christmas bag with a specially designed twist closure with the brand’s logo on it. The color focus is on berry, steel and soft rosé tones.

Founded in 2008, M O M E N T B Y M O M E N T accessories bring a modern, minimalist look to the stylish chic silhouette. An eye for detail and beautiful use of color – this is what shapes the brand’s contemporary spirit and unique identity. With a fresh and modern insight in design and style, Moment By Moment represents a lifestyle with a passion for scarves. The Fall/Winter 2017/18 collection is an eclectic mix of exciting prints, interesting embellishments and classic winter shapes and textures.

Moment By Moment

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ZWEI

In its current collection, the bag label Z W E I presents the clear designs one is familiar with. The focus is on transformable backpacks/bags and exciting surface designs. New are the hybrid collections F E R D I and O L L I C Y C L E . In just a few easy steps, they are transformed from bag to backpack or from shoulder bag to bicycle bag. Texture is a theme for both the bags and wallets – here, for example, braided cowhide is used. In terms of color, the collections are dominated by bright natural colors.

The Berlin label R E H AT S transforms original printed jute cloth from real coffee bags into unusual one-off pieces for the head. From the classic pork pie hat to the sporty slider or winter hat, each hat and cap in the “Coffee2Go” collection tells its own story. The hip lining comes from other designers’ remaining stock and is certified according to OEKO-TEX. Another clear statement: The sustainable and fair production work is done in Europe – upcycled streetwear from Berlin.

ReHats munda:rt

is the reflection of a new spirit behind a free, open-minded society. The collection fuses elements from different cultures with a modern urban touch and subtle glamour, creating the look for an open, futuristic world. M U N D A : R T is not interested in short-lived fashion and banks on individuality instead of mainstream. Authenticity and uncompromised designs give every style its own character.

M U N DA:RT

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MR. BOHO was born in 2013 in Madrid from the creativeness, will and eagerness of a young, professional team that thought they might have something to say in the fashion industry. And so the four friends started to design sunglasses and watches. The idea was simple: to develop quality products at affordable prices, and provide them with their own unique personality. In order to achieve this, M R . B O H O looks for the mix of simple, basic lines, classic references and particular elements that can provide the products with that touch of distinctiveness that the brand seeks. M R . B O H O is for all of you who share a common cosmopolitan, curious attitude. And as social engagement belongs to the brand’s DNA, one euro per purchase is donated to the welfare of children in need. MR. BOHO

EMU Australia

E M U A U S T R A L I A ’s new Fall 2017 collection delivers adventure-ready footwear with a distinctive Australian sensibility. E M U A U S T R A L I A ’s globally successful waterproof range, inspired by a sense of wanderlust, has been injected with newness and is packed with waterproof technology. Hand-selected tanned waterproof leather and suede uppers are combined with waterproof membranes and a durable outsole, delivering footwear that is adventure-ready, whether in the city or on the trail. Embracing the brand’s Australian heritage, E M U A U S T R A L I A has partnered with artist Zachary Bennett-Brook who has created an original, traditional artwork for E M U A U S T R A L I A ’s limited edition Indigenous Collection.

Brand news |

SHOES & ACCESSOR I ES

Gordon&Bros. Shoes by the brand G O R D O N & B R O S . impress with their high-quality materials and first-class workmanship. Whether business shoes, ankle boots or double monk shoes, with the men’s shoes from G O R D O N & B R O S . , you are always dressed elegantly and appropriately. Developed in Germany and handcrafted in India, the men’s shoes exude reliability and elegance. G O R D O N & B R O S . shoes are crafted according to the highest standards and are durable and long-lasting. The timeless design, the quality and the comfort inspire customers all over the world – possibly for a lifetime.

A homage to aesthetics: With the Fall/Winter 2017 collection, V A G A B O N D shoes continue to have a highquality, minimalist design, influenced by a free spirit and maximalism. The silhouettes are inspired by Milan’s street look: bold prints and fabrics, as well as the oversized trend. For women, the key styles are angular shoe tips, medium-high shaft ankle boots, second-skin and over-the-knee boots as well as loafers. For men, sneaker time is over. The trend is now towards a styled, dressy look. Loafers, monks and jodhpurs are making a comeback, setting the course for the new season.

Vagabond

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‘W A I P U N A ’ is Hawaiian and means ‘fresh water source.’ As the origin of life, it represents a new beginning. The feather symbolizes Hawaii’s lightness and nonchalance, reminding you of unbridled joie de vivre and pure joy. Each W A I P U N A bag is adorned with a small, silver-colored feather – with a touch of Hawaiian spirit as a symbol of the positive aspects of life. With its formal language and colors, the entire W A I P U N A collection exudes a lively and optimistic feeling of life.

WAIPUNA

H.I.S

men’s shoes keep impressing more and more men. Wearers appreciate the trendy design and high comfort of the models. Made of the finest materials, the label makes beautiful, timeless models that can be worn for more than just one season. H . I . S men’s shoes can be combined in many ways and are available in many traditional colors, but also in the latest trend colors. Whether as flat low shoes or high ankle boots – H . I . S men’s shoes round off your outfit and complete the style. For the upcoming Fall/Winter season, more models will be available with a Tex membrane, giving the shoes their waterrepellent, breathable characteristics. H.I.S

MELVIN & HAMILTON

Founded in 1986, M E LV I N & H A M I LTO N is a family-owned company based in Heidelberg. The second-generation brothers, Karim and Olivier Choukair, are responsible for designing all the men’s and women’s shoes as well as the accessories. They create very attractive designs that combine elegant classics with modern elements. Sophisticated Chelsea leather boots are, for example, paired with a floral stretch insert, or an elegant Budapest pattern meets a bright pink sole.

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Hall 5 | Booth 5.40

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Fritzi aus Preu en complements its successful shoe and bag collection with a newly designed apparel line, which is oriented towards the whole collection. A special focus is on the new NOS DENIM program. Elaborate details and a high-quality mix of fabrics can be seen on skinny, slim, straight, boyfriend and chino fits. A catchy, colorful jacket collection completes the overall picture.

FR ITZ I AUS PR E USSE N

Pedro Miralles

Trends and sophistication united in modern designs for a smart and dynamic woman passionate about shoes. For the “see now buy now” Spring/Summer 2017 collection, P E D R O M O R A L E S presents the perfect combination in design and comfort and composes styles with a young and attractive character. The design team uses the well-known comfort of P E D R O M O R A L E S plus soft and pleasant leather in a wide range of prints and colors ready to face an enjoyable summertime. Part of the collection goes “daily” with wider shapes, thick heels and breathable materials.

iXXXi Jewelry

Is your dream job to design jewelry? I X X X I J E W E L R Y makes this dream come true for end consumers. The company developed a very unique jewelry concept: a basic ring that is between 0.8 and 1.6 cm wide, can be “filled” with various smaller rings, depending on your personal taste. The endless possibilities for variation produce very special unique pieces. Whether it’s sparkling zirconia or magic symbols – I X X X I J E W E L R Y has something for everyone.

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DU LIEBST DEINE SNEAKER?

KEEPâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;EM NICE!

MIT CARBON PRO

www.carbonpro.de

COLLONIL Saltzenbrodt GmbH & Co. KG

Hermsdorfer Str. 70, 13437 Berlin

Tel.: (+49) 30 414 04 40

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green DAYS Photography S E 7E N T Y N 9 N E Production & Styling T H O R S T E N O S T E R B E R G E R

Bag by F R I T Z I A U S P R E U S S E N Beach Sandals by F L I P * F LO P Necklace with Pendant by S P R U C H K E T T E N BY L I E B L I C H K E I T E N

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Pearl Necklace by L U M I S H A

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Monkey by K AY B O J E S E N D E S I G N Neoprene Clutch by N E O N N E I D

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Straw Hat by C H I L LO U T S Sunglasses by M R . B O H O

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Strap Sandals by B R O N X Limited Care Set by A E S O P

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Wedges by P E D R O M I R A L L E S

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Pumps by P E T E R K A I S E R Apsu Eau de Toilette by U L R I C H L A N G

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Necklace by S W E E T D E L U X E

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Anti Blemish Treatment Stop Spot by G U E R L A I N Sunglasses by M R . B O H O

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Chelsea Boots by Melvin M E LV I N & H A M I LT O N Espadrilles by PAV E M E N T Sneakers by M AC A R E N A

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Scarf by M O M E N T BY M O M E N T Necklace by S W E E T D E L U X E

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Wedges by S I X T YS E V E N Pillow by H O U S E O F H AC K N E Y

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A LIFE UNDER THE A M A R O F I LT E R by A N D R E S D A M M

Web 2.0 seems to give us unlimited possibilities for self-staging. We are curating our lives and identities more than ever before. But how much selection and self-optimization with respect to self-presentation is still healthy? When my girlfriend Veronika came to visit me last fall in New York, she had a clearly defined goal in mind: She’d take a picture for a new Facebook profile. Sure, I thought. That’s what we’ll do. Strike a nice pose on the fire escape when the weather is good and we’re done. If only! It took two full days of pre-selection, filter test, filter adjustment, and final selection until she’d finally picked the new profile photo from what felt like

where ...?

5,000 pictures. Veronika’s mini trip was almost over. Sure, we climbed the fire escape every day, but not the Statue of Liberty nor the Empire State Building – all because of a single picture ... As extreme as said girlfriend can be, she is not alone. By now, likes and comments function as regular currency in today’s Egoland 2.0. But, to be honest, it’s more often than not that our online identity has little to do with our actual lives or our true selves. We’re posting tuna tartare on a slate serving plate and not pea soup served in Ikea bowls. We’re tagging

Exaggeration – a dramatic sunset thanks to the right filter.

Who am I and if so,

Editorial |

ourselves as patrons of Lufthansa’s First Class Lounge (even if we’re actually just sitting at McDonald’s right next door), and not as patients waiting their turn in the allergist’s waiting room. The sun is always shining in our lives, no matter what. And if the sky is gray, then there’s always the right Instagram Filter to take care of that – my personal favorite: “Amaro.” We simply filter out the tedious daily grind from our web presentations. In a certain sense, this is normal, and up to a point it’s surely not that alarming – after all, we all want to impress and be admired. But where are the limits? It’s definitely possible to understand this development as ‘the normals’ attaching themselves to the overstaged pseudo-world of stars and starlets. Top models, Hollywood stars and pop singers are usually touched up to the hilt before we ever get to see them. So, it should be okay for us to do a bit of cheating too with the correct lighting, angle and filter. But it gets to be sad when our real lives start to suffer under the sway of narcissistic visual optimization; when we stop enjoying sunsets because we’d rather shoot the most perfect selfie; when we no longer choose brunch, lunch and dinner dishes because they taste good but because they’d make great Instagrams and when we get to eat our dishes more and more often when they’re lukewarm because we’re busy the first few minutes with taking the obligatory pictures. “Actually, I’m in the mood today for scrambled eggs but the herbpomegranate salad with saffron threads is surely more photogenic ...,” a blogger well-known in the city, who sat next to me in a café, recently commented on its menu. It gets to be even sadder when we’re no longer able to locate the fragile border

The most popular #advocadotoast photos now on Instagram - three of 233,576

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the drive to impress seems to be even stronger in social networks than it is in real life – and despite the fact that we often don’t know the people we’d like to impress.

between optimization and alienation. What an embarrassment, when your Tinder date no longer recognizes you, because you used posing, light and filter to create a figure that has very little in common with your actual person. It’s also unpleasant when your interlocutor during a job interview has prepared him- or herself by doing online research and who now is excessively disappointed because people are usually more average than they appeared to be on Facebook. By the way, not even celebrities are exempt from embarrassment when it comes to hyper-optimization. The actress Laverne Cox recently had to refute rumors about a nose job because she’d used the so-called “pretty filter” on Snapchat. She looked so different that people immediately assumed she’d had plastic surgery. It’s especially teenagers who can get very stressed out by the surreal extent of contemporary self-staging, because their egos are not yet fully formed and because they are not yet fully fluent in social media. As we’ve noted above: In the old days, it was only the poreless-perfect stars who would often crush our egos. By now, however, it’s us, the ‘normals,’ who are fighting it out every day in the contest for the most perfect selfpresentation. The nervous breakdown of Australian Instagram model Essena O’Neill caused quite a stir when she confessed in a YouTube video with tears in her eyes that she could no longer bear it to be nothing but a type of social media construct. To be sure, the pressure on her was no doubt especially great because the teenager had made precisely this construct her profession. By finding sponsors, she was able to generate €25,000 a year in revenue. But even quite normal adolescents get trapped more and more often by their craving for admiration. Absurdly,

While giving a concert in the historical arena of Verona, the singer Adele summed it up nicely when she instructed her audience: “People, put your cell phones away. After all, I’m really here. Enjoy the concert with your eyes and not through the screens of your smartphones!” – a message that all of us should take to heart now and then, no matter whether we’re at a pop concert, on vacation or simply, on this or that occasion, in the here and now. Life and even we ourselves, in all our naturalness – both of these can be so very beautiful, all without an Amaro filter.

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ADIA

Warm jewel colors like olive, blue and merlot red with classic white and gray tones are a peaceful and stylish color segment. The tailor-made styles are inspired by the classic look of the modern man, but with slightly oversized collars and pockets that create a casual look when styled with knitted capes. Floral prints are in, but so are prints with simple lines, and photo prints too.

sheego

is fashion that makes you happy. No ifs, ands or buts. At the center of life. At the center of the latest trends. At the center of happiness. S H E E G O offers fashion for trend-conscious women, starting at size 40. In its online shop, catalogs and shopin-shop areas, the plus-size label of Schwab Versand GmbH offers fashion trends and a wide selection of contemporary fashion with great fits for all styles and figures. SHEEGO

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KARIN GLASMACHER & fabelhaft The sizes range from 38 to 56 in standard and short lengths. Particular attention is given to cuts and fits. Versatile A-shapes give jackets and pullovers a casual lightness and are part of the collection, as are H-shaped cardigans and sweaters with inserted sleeves. In addition to ultralight knitwear, matching shirts and blouses, and special styles are available in crash linen. Being able to combine the items in many different ways is part of the collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s concept, so color consistency is guaranteed throughout the year. The collection is mainly produced in our own factory in Germany. High-quality materials and top workmanship guarantee maximum wearing comfort and excellent care properties.

Sallie Sahne

The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 season is filled with a lively opulence: an expressive mix of vivid textures, prints, colors and fabrics surprises with expressive, playful force. Super feminine looks are broken up with sporty detailing and decorative block or sports stripes. The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 season presents unconventional combinations and layered looks, featuring exciting, creative contrasts ranging from stringent to romantic, woolly to shiny, and ornamental to sporty.

KjBRAND

K J B R A N D stands for fashionable, sports-inspired collections made from high-quality materials in sizes 38 to 58. With decades of experience and lots of dedication, the brand makes pants that fit perfectly and fashion that can be combined stylishly. Current trends are implemented in such a way that, regardless of clothing size, they flatter the feminine silhouette and are comfortable to wear at the same time. The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection presents three themes: a very young, cool theme with sporty influences; a casual, cozy theme that conveys a pleasant sense of well-being, and finally, a festive theme: Glamour is in the air here.

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e l y t S y m s u l P y m Plus Stardesigner-Kollektion

FOR

Halle: „Hipstar“ 7A.11

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H I P S TA R

Ofelia

The Danish company K S K FA S H I O N has designed and produced fashionable womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing of high quality since 1998. The brand O F E L I A , sizes 36-44, was in 2003 followed up by another brand called C A S S I O P E I A , sizes 42-56. This approach was chosen to offer more women chic and competitively priced fashion regardless of body shape. K S K FA S H I O N has several collections during the year, designing and manufacturing these collections within a time interval of only eight weeks. This assures that the right look is distributed to the shops.

Cassiopeia

Zizzi

From closet cornerstones to daring afterdark designs, Z I Z Z I is synonymous with on-trend clothing for every occasion. Offered in sizes 42- 56, the Danish fashion brand firmly believes that clothes are an expression of personality â&#x20AC;&#x201C; underpinned by their #zizzipeople ambassadors, a curated clique of stylish women who have perfected their personal style. Crafted in a range of silhouettes, colors and materials that flatter the female form, the Fall/Winter 2017 offers up key pieces for the new season: perfectly fitting jeans, sumptuous knitwear and stylish tops to super-chic dresses and tailored blazers, design focus on fit and function, ensuring women look and feel their best.

Size 38 - 58 www.kjbrand.de

PANORAMA, Berlin 17.01. – 19.01.2017 Halle 7 B * Stand 15 CPD, Düsseldorf 27.01. – 30.01.2017 Fashion House 2 * Raum 2 A 025

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Shirt by K J B R A N D Top by S A L L I E S A H N E Jeans by S H E E G O Shoes by VAG A B O N D Necklace by S W E E T D E L U X E

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Left page: Top by F R A P P Pants by S H E E G O Jacket by S A L L I E S A H N E Right page: Jacket & Blouse by S O P H I A C U R V Y Pants by S A L L I E S A H N E Shoes by VAG A B O N D

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Left page: Pullover by S O P H I A C U R V Y Skirt by YO E K Cardigan by K A R I N G L A S M AC H E R Right page: Dress & Pants A D I A

Pants by V I A A P P I A D U E Top (top) by K A R I N G L A S M AC H E R Top under the top by YO E K Necklace by S W E E T D E L U X E

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Top by V I A A P P I A D U E Shirt by K A R I N G L A S M AC H E R Pants by G I G L I O R O S S O Shoes by VAG A B O N D

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P H OTO G R A P H E R : TO B I A S W I R T H | | FA S H I O N S T Y L I S T & P R O D U C T I O N : J U L I A Q UA N T E / P E R F EC T P R O P S H A I R & M A K E U P : K I M K E U S E N U S I N G U N D G R E T E L B E R L I N | | M A N I C U R E : S A K U YA M I E S C Z A LO K S E T S T Y L I S T : M A R L E N E S TA R K / S A I N T YQY | | A S S I S TA N T P H OTO G R A P H E R : P H I L L I P H E L M K E M O D E L : M A R I E K E JA N S S E N / M O D E LW E R K

Left page: Dress by S O P H I A C U R V Y Right page: Top by S A L L I E S A H N E Jeans by F R A P P T-Shirt under the top by G I G L I O R O S S O

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Banana Sleeping Pack

MAYO

B Y T O N Y M O LY

TOMATOX

B Y T O N Y M O LY

manefit

SKINFOOD

B E A U T Y - T R E N D F R O M A S I E N You can now get the hottest skin care and make-up innovations from Asia without going on an expensive long-distance flight. In the past, you actually had to go on a long flight – namely to South Korea or Japan – to get the innovative cosmetic products. It’s also interesting to note that the two countries, although geographically close to each other, have developed different approaches to skin care and makeup. The latest product innovations come from Korea, while Japan continues to specialize in improving textures and formulas. Our 10 favorites: T O N Y M O LY B A N A N A S L E E P I N G P A C K The mask, which is applied in the evening, contains calming chamomile, making it particularly suitable for sensitive skin. The natural banana extract is rich in vitamins and fibers and also gives you smooth skin. “Tonymoly Magic Food Banana Sleeping Pack“ by TO N Y M O LY | seen on amazon.de | 85 ml | €17 T O N Y M O LY H A E Y O M A Y O This isn’t a gentle mayonnaise, but a rich delicate hair treatment with egg yolk extract, macadamia oil and shea butter – valuable ingredients that make dry, stressed hair soft and supple. “Haeyo Mayo Hair Nutrition Pack” by TO N Y M O LY | seen on miin-cosmetics.com | 289 g | €12 T O N Y M O LY T O M A T O X Detox for the skin: The clarifying mask with tomato extract contains lemon extract that accelerates collagen synthesis. Baicha extract helps calm irritated skin while offering a whitening effect for a radiant complexion. “Tomatox Magic White Massage Pack” by TO N Y M O LY | seen on miin-cosmetics.com | 80 g | €13 M A N E F I T H O N E Y For the perfect complexion: The sheet mask with valuable honey extract vitalizes dry skin in just ten minutes. Sheet masks are great to use from time to time. “Honey Nutrition & Vitalizing Mask” by M A N E F I T | Seen on miin-cosmetics.com | 20ml | € 2 S K I N F O O D E G G W H I T E The deep cleansing and very intensive face mask with egg white extract tightens the skin. This miracle serum reduces sebum production in no time, thus effectively counteracting pimples and blackheads and refining the skin’s texture. “Egg White Pore Mask” by S K I N F O O D | seen on amazon.de | 100 g | €12

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Benton INNISFREE It'S SKIN

Konjac Sponge MISSHA B E N T O N In addition to the skin soothing and cooling effect, moisturizing and skin-firming improvement, the all-in-one weapon has effective ingredients such as snail secretion filtrate, hyaluronic acid and various botanical-based, natural ingredients. “Snail Bee High Content Steam Cream” by B E N TO N | seen on amazon.de | 50 g | €23 I T ’ S S K I N This finale by It’s Skin is unique: gentle, nourishing and vitalizing. Red ginseng gives the skin with an extra shot of moisture, and regenerating snail secretion is revered in Korea as a new beauty star due to its positive effect on skin. “Prestige d’Escargot Finale” by I T ’ S S K I N | seen on look-beautiful.de | 40 ml | €121 I N N I S F R E E The cooling clay mask with an innovative 6-in-1 formula absorbs sebum, cleanses and shrinks pores, preventing the formation of skin impurities. A group of volcanic minerals forms the basis for the valuable ingredients, leading to optimal cleansing results. It also gives you a brighter, more radiant complexion. “Super volcanic pore clay mask” by I N N I S F R E E | seen on amazon.de | 100 ml | €17 T H E K O N J A C S P O N G E C O M P A N Y Made of 100 percent white konjac, the facial sponge is alkaline in nature and balances the acidity of impure, oily skin, clearing and refining the pores gently. For daily use, the natural plant fiber sponge is ideal for all skin types and is even gentle enough for the most sensitive skin. Konjac Sponge by T H E K O N J A C S P O N G E C O M PA N Y | seen on look-beautiful.de | 1 sponge | €9 M I S S H A BB Cream by M I S S H A naturally improves your skin’s texture and with SPF 30 provides excellent sun protection. The cream’s outstanding coverage means that makeup looks perfect yet natural, while the snail slime and baobab tree extracts support the regeneration processes for the skin cells. “Super Aqua Cell Renew Snail BB Cream” by M I S S H A | seen on amazon.de | 45 g | €30 M I S S H A The 3-in-1 cleanser of foam cleanser, soap, and 90-second express pack in one gently removes makeup residue, sebum and impurities from your skin. Minerals and magnesium from Black Ghassoul leave your skin feeling pleasantly fresh. “Black Ghassoul Foam Cleansing Bar” by M I S S H A | seen on amazon.de | 80 g | €8

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9 7

T H E T O P 1 0 C U LT P R O D U C T S Perfumes, creams, fragrances and serums come and go. How can you even choose one? We show you products that have definitely earned their cult status on the cosmetics shelf. Here are our Top 10: 1 0 . H E L M U T L A N G The androgynous, woody yet sweet perfume with orange, lavender and rosemary is definitely a sign of taste and is perfect for every occasion. “Eau de Parfum” by H E L M U T L A N G | seen on vooberlin.com | 100 ml | €159

9 . E L I Z A B E T H A R D E N The all-round vaseline with vitamin E has been used for more than 80 years against dry skin, brittle lips and can even be used as a highlighter. “Eight Hour Skin Protectant Cream” by E L I Z A B E T H A R D E N | seen on douglas.de | 50 ml | €33

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8 . M A S O N P E A R S O N The top brand uses the very best materials, including pure, handpicked wild boar bristles, for its exceptional hairbrushes. “Handy Extra Bristle” by M A S O N P E A R S O N | seen on hagel-shop.de | €169

7. L A N C Ô M E The award-winning mascara by Lancôme provides long, thick, lifted dream lashes thanks to glycerin and pro vitamin B5. “Mascara Hypnôse” by L A N C Ô M E | seen on flakoni.de | 6,2 g | €25

6 . M A R V I S The cult toothpaste from Florence has a distinctive cool retro design that adds a decorative touch to every bathroom. Pure peppermint oil gives you fresh breath when brushing your teeth. “CLASSIC STRONG MINT” by M A R V I S | seen on niche-beauty.com | 75 ml | €10

5 . D I P T Y Q U E In 1963 the first Diptyque candle was introduced in Paris. The scent of berries (French: baies) fuses with rose and blackcurrant aromas. “Baies” by D I P T Y Q U E | seen on D I P T Y Q U E Store Berlin, Ku’ damm 193-194 | 190 g | €46

4 . Y V E S S A I N T L A U R E N T The bestselling concealer banishes all signs of fatigue and hides any unevenness. It also works as a lip base. “TOUCHE

ÉCLAT” by Y V E S S A I N T L A U R E N T | seen on douglas.de | 2,5 ml | €35

3 . N U X E The universal dry oil for face, body and hair gives a silky shimmer. The all-rounder is part of every travel bag with its fine orange fragrance. “Huile

Prodigieuse” by N U X E | seen on breuninger.com | 100 ml | €33

2 . N I V E A Familiar Care: The fragrance of the blue cult cream is now also available as an eau de toilet – as expected, it smells of gentle, fine blossom notes. “Eau de Toilette” by N I V E A | exclusively available on nivea.de | 30 ml | €24

1 . A Q U A C O L O N I A The invigorating composition of vitalizing lemon and stimulating ginger smells of sun and summer in Sicily. “ACQUA COLONIA

Lemon & Ginger” by 4 7 1 1 | deen on douglas.de | 100 ml | €40

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PA N O R A M A B E R L I N

Using all the senses At a time when we can sit back on our couch and order almost everything that our hearts desire thanks to the Internet, the retail industry has to create special purchasing experiences and remain competitive. Companies are very deliberate in their effort to make sure that shopping remains a hobby for almost 60% of all women and almost 30% of all men. The fact that boutiques are now shrines to consumerism designed by star architects in which we are emotionally and invisibly targeted by curated acoustic and olfactory experiences is certainly a big part of the formula of success. Fragrance dimensions

Sissel Tolaas is an expert in the world of smells. She served as an expert consultant for the film “The Perfume.” She teaches “invisible communication” at Harvard Business School. She has created an archive of around 8,000 scents and several successful perfumes have been created with her support. So it’s obvious that Tolaas also has a strong opinion about the issue of smell as a shopping stimulant. Abercrombie & Fitch, the fashion brand whose boutiques can be smelled from two blocks away, is an absolutely negative example to her due to the olfactory penetration. “Precisely how you shouldn’t work with smells.” Indeed, Tolaas believes that there are already enough everyday smells in the world. When she creates a scent for a shop or a hotel, one thing is very clear to her: “The first thing I would do is go into the boutique and have a close look: What’s there? It’s necessary to analyze the current environment and make distinctions. Building on that,

I get to work. I would never simply show up with a completely new composition and then tell the client this is the scent for you.” She also notes that scents can never work crudely or manipulatively just to increase sales. She says that our noses get tired of smells much too quickly for that. “Working with scent can function whenever the smell is put into context – very subtly. Our senses are constantly being bombarded so much that we become dull and we frequently don’t react at all to what’s too invasive. It’s the same thing with smells as the eye – you can’t see the forest for the trees. In the perfume section of a department store, for instance, they simply spray around them without any self-control. Who’s thinking about the big picture there? In those situations, of course you can’t even tell what the individual scent is doing because there’s no longer any deliberately employed overall scent.” In addition, everyone of course experiences a smell in connection with how they first experienced it. It’s pure memory. The subjective experience remains the same throughout one’s life. “So fragrances can of course trigger a wide variety of associations in different people.” One more reason why it’s necessary to be more subtle and not too invasive with certain notes.

Music as a mission

Fred Schindler is not exactly an unknown name in his métier. With his company Too Young Ltd., he’s responsible for the soundtracks of various films as a music consultant. He also advises companies like Saint Laurent, Prada, or Hermes on issues concerning the perfect sound. His latest coup is an online radio service (Movement) where customers can retrieve customized playlists for their boutique, hotel, or restaurant. A team made up of several music curators with an eye not only on the overall concept with the right mood, but also a certain percentage of current hits and a balanced relationship between independent and mainstream music. As you might expect, the finetuning involved here depends on the customer. Like Tolaas, Schindler appreciates the fact that as a sound curator he doesn’t have the ultimate answer for increasing sales. Instead, his main job is to create an atmosphere that is positive, warm, and pleasant to the customer through “Movement.” An important aspect of his work is acoustical support of brand perception. Is a company more classical/elegant or urban/ cool? Depending on the answer, “Movement” would communicate

a very different sound profile. This might even be unexpectedly contrary. Baroque sonatas can seem extremely cool in a minimalistic concrete environment, while a house track might do that at a luxury hotel. In any case, a part of Schindler’s success as a music supervisor is certainly his feeling for small, surprising nuances. “The song ‘Dream’ by the Cranberries was a top hit in almost the entire Western world, so for a large number of people it creates a recognition value and therefore a sense of well-being. That’s ideal when creating a playlist. But if you then take the Asian version, adapted for Wong Kar Wie’s film Chungking Express, you create an additional ‘aha’ thought to the melodic sense of security when you’re listening. So in the ideal scenario, there is a subconsciously created positive memory.” Maybe not as drastically as with fragrance – but still indisputably – it is nevertheless also true for sound that associations of individuals are unpredictable. In this respect, therefore, it makes sense to be cautious and reserved about how much to use. Indeed, depending on whether you associate Bach’s Fourth Sonata or the fragrance from Lilien with a marriage or even a funeral, the influence can be really different. But in both cases, the power of sound and smell are indisputable...

by A N D R E S D A M M

HALL 7C.04

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LINGERIE

With refined lingerie in sensual colors, PA S S I O N ATA ensures some steamy hours even during the cold time of year – and makes hearts beat faster with lots of bustiers and bodies! A seductive eye-catcher: Under a sexy oversized sweater, the bustiers look particularly good – just like the bodies with a sensual high waist. The lingerie is the perfect companion for daily wear and for pure seduction during those romantic evening hours. Or just let the lingerie sparkle under your clothes – this is the big trend at PA S S I O N ATA this season!

Passionata Chantal Thomass

Welcome to the Cabaret: This season is all about the intoxicating stars of the roaring twenties. C H A N TA L T H O M A S S invites you to the cabaret with its glittering showgirls. The Parisian designer has created sophisticated outfits that reflect the sun, the moon, star dust, stormy weather, as well as twilight and hip-swinging showgirls. Details like masculine buttons on the cuffs and striped satin collars are combined with fine lace and gorgeous sparkling necklaces. Draped tulle, ruffles, bows and lacing ... simply spectacular!

Berlei SPORT

was founded in 1917 by forward-thinking Australian entrepreneur Fred Burley. Innovative from the very beginning, Burley was commited to producing high-quality garments with excellent fit. For the last ten years, the American tennis icon and 21-time Grand Slam winner Serena Williams has been the brand ambassador, underscoring the success story of the Australian lingerie brand. Quality and well-being are integral to the B E R L E I lingerie design ethos and are consistently expressed within all the collections – from careful fabric design to pattern cutting and the final product execution.

BERLEI

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LINGERIE

Aubade

For the new Fall/Winter 2017 collection, A U B A D E is inspired by the world of precious fragrances. Delicate and subtle scents attach to the lingerie, to perfect any woman, for any type of seduction, depending on her mood, senses, skin and curves. The collection’s symphony of scents accompanies light lace, floral prints, embroidered flowers and precious silk. Each piece is made with passion, reflecting a woman’s desires and senses. Contemporary lingerie that every woman wants, that she would like to feel directly on her skin – for confident and treasured moments of seduction. The shades match each other: Rosewood mixes with luscious red tones, ivory harmonizes with copper – shimmering, fashionable and sexy. Worn like perfume, the tones make women more beautiful in a unique way.

PALMERS

PA L M E R S is considered an innovation leader in the field of lingerie. Far beyond Austria’s borders, the PA L M E R S brand enjoys an excellent reputation and – thanks to its legendary poster campaigns – an above-average degree of brand recognition. PA L M E R S is represented at more than 300 locations in 18 countries with its own stores, shop-inshop concepts and franchise outlets throughout Europe and is the oldest and largest franchisor in the lingerie market. PA L M E R S employs 730 people worldwide. The Austrian brand icon has repeatedly set new accents and standards, in this way establishing itself as a top international brand.

With its designs, G O S S A R D , the UK’s most popular lingerie brand, is always fully up-to-date and always on the cutting edge. For more than 115 years, G O S S A R D has been an expert in delivering superior quality, the best fit with high wearing comfort, and an aboveaverage range of sizes. G O S S A R D is not only the maker of the notorious push-up, but also the very popular, ultralight, seamless molded bra. In the Fall/Winter 2017 collection, G O S S A R D turns lingerie into an outfit. The collection exudes femininity, power and elegance. It embodies every aspect of the woman – from what she is to what she wants to be.

Gossard

Brand news |

LINGERIE

PrettyPolly P R E T T Y P O L LY , the

British market leader and top brand in the legwear sector, has enjoyed an excellent reputation in hosiery for more than a hundred years worldwide. This season, the brand continues its successful collaboration with the prestigious pret-á-porter fashion label of the international fashion world, House of Holland, by top designer Henry Holland. P R E T T Y P O L LY always surprises with new, creative and stylish product lines. After all, fashion and style stand for a certain attitude towards life that can also be worn on your legs. And this is exactly what makes the brand P R E T T Y P O L LY so appealing: inimitable, creative design combined with high-quality materials and outstanding workmanship for a unique, feminine feel.

Wonderlands

W O N D E R L A N D S is a young and fashionable Swiss underwear brand with a focus on sustainability. The collections are made entirely from eco-friendly materials (organic & recycled), proving that fashion can be sustainable. The Organic line is produced with organic cotton. The innovative Recycled line is made out of 75% recycled cotton and 25% polyester. What’s unique is that this polyester comes from plastic bottles (PET).

Chantelle

An ode to the elegant, self-confident woman! Strong in savoir-faire, C H A N T E L L E brings modernity and innovation to the collection, offering lingerie with fine, feminine lines, perfect hold and absolute comfort. C H A N T E L L E gently corrects small contour irregularities in your silhouette, without creating lines under your clothing – with light lace as a perfect companion for all outfits from morning to night. C H A N T E L L E reinterprets the wireless bra: Whether it is with floral lace or a refined combination of light tulle and piqué fabric, the new wireless bras are incredibly comfortable. Seduction in full elegance!

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Wrangler Nova Concept - Hall 9 Stand 9.39

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Gianni Lupo

Solid

Didriksons1913 S O L I D For the new Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection, Danish menswear label S O L I D is inspired by a variety of sources, ranging from 1950s rock ‘n’ roll to contemporary rapper coolness to iconic 1930s paperboys and “The New York Times.” Through modern photo prints, the 1930s paperboy look gets a contemporary twist. Here too, typography is the focal point for the graphic prints. A major trend for this season is styles in tweed, herringbone, salt & pepper, twill and melange. Classic double-breasted wool coats, chunky wool melange knits and cable knit patterns are all included in this collection. Colors are grey and black with an added dash of deep claret. G I A N N I L U P O As a first time exhibitor at PA N O R A M A B E R L I N , G I A N N I L U P O is sure to stir up a commotion. Aimed at young, spontaneous men, his collections are inspired by the Italian effortless but fashionable casual style with a particular focus on jeans. The G I A N N I L U P O Surplus range, introduced in 2016, targets a more sophisticated audience. The refined textures and classic fits are reinterpreted following the latest international fashion trends. Every piece is a true must-have for the modern gentleman. D I D R I K S O N S 1 9 1 3 Across the North Sea to the Shetlands. D I D R I K S O N S 1 9 1 3 – a 103-year-old brand, follows its own history for the Fall/Winter 2017 collection. It is inspired by, and photographed at the Shetland Islands. In 1956 a jacket was named “Shetland.” Back then it was the chase for the silver of the sea that brought fishermen from Sweden – wearing D I D R I K S O N S 1 9 1 3 to the islands. Shetland is a remote and almost surreal place at the point where the North Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. The garments’ colors blend with nature – the blue sea and sky, heather, green grass, and granite rocks rising from the ocean. The Didriksons Originals collection is made for the future with garments measuring up to the past.

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Granny’s Finest

Fornarina

doo-wop Donkey D O N K E Y The Hamburg label D O N K E Y develops gift ideas and gadgets with love, a good eye and passion. The ‘D O N K E Y s’ are a colorful bunch of creative people who develop collections and products that are packed with joie de vivre and tell stories. Like pioneers, the ‘D O N K E Y s’ explore everyday life in search of something special. The result: product innovations for curious, design-conscious and open-minded people. And, at D O N K E Y , you have one more thing: fun! F O R N A R I N A is a combination of street couture and designs with innovative features. It is considered a “top of mind” brand for its iconic denim fits and the perfect mix of products, communication and events. F O R N A R I N A , with its clothes, shoes and bags speaks a contemporary language for women who like to play with fashion, mix’n’match styles and colors. The imagery ranges from feminine bon ton to a rebel and rock attitude for a totally cosmopolitan, outrageously fashionable and contemporary woman. D O O - W O P The denim label D O O - W O P combines passion, love and innovation, creating wearable, everyday styles. The label stands for solid craftsmanship, top quality and that certain glam factor. Since its founding, D O O - W O P has stood for modern luxury that’s low-key and affordable. So the cheeky motto of the jeans manufacturer is right on: “What you find at D O O - W O P is often simple, but always catchy.” G R A N N Y ’ S F I N E S T They exist: Those particularly beautiful stories that only life can write. In the course of a conversation with an older lady who knits, the two Dutchmen, Niek and Jip, got the idea to start a label called G R A N N Y ’ S F I N E S T : Young designers design their ideas which are, in turn, implemented by grandmothers who love knitting. In addition to promoting exchange between the generations, the company also makes sure that the grannies have time to exchange feedback, chat, and have coffee and a nice laugh together.

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B&O PLAY

Pryma

Thule

B & O P L A Y is the modern premium brand by B A N G & O L U F S E N , which is deeply rooted in the Danish company’s long-standing history. B & O P L AY reinterprets values such as design, craftsmanship and product innovation – the result is a portfolio of portable audio products and headphones, with a focus on mobility and high-quality. The modern products are intuitive to use and easy to integrate into daily life, whether at home or on the road. The target group: creative urban professionals – design-conscious people with an active and varied lifestyle. P R Y M A is the new brand and challenge by Sonus Faber, whose history already dates back thirty years to a small studio near Vicenza. From the beginning, the brand had a great goal: a “handmade product” combining advanced technologies with craftsmanship and the best Italian design with extreme purity of sound. Since the company is now the leader in its field, Sonus Faber decided to not just limit itself to acoustic diffusers, but to create headphones that are unique in their design and listening experience with the P R Y M A brand. T H U L E was established in Sweden in 1942. And ever since then, the brand’s mission has been to bring you closer to the world and your passion for life. T H U L E employees are from different countries and are united by their passion to help active families and outdoor enthusiasts with their activities. They make it easier for you to transport your equipment safely, easily and in style so you are free to live your active life. T H U L E believes in the value of an active life – whether you’re in the city or the great outdoors. Whatever your passion, whatever your pursuit. Wherever you’re going, whatever you’re bringing. With T H U L E , you’re free to live your active life to the full.

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SHIRTS FOR LIFE

Lolli Queen

Staff Jeans

SEVEN DAYS CIRCUS S H I R T S F O R L I F E creates favorites that are supposed to be fun and enjoyed with a good conscience. The new sustainable fashion label in the green fashion sector presents high-quality, detail-rich pieces in sync with the latest trends. A transparent supply chain is very important to the brand. What exactly does that mean? The brand knows how the individual garments are manufactured and monitors everything carefully – from cotton cultivation to yarn production to price per meter for the finished fabric to manufacturing. L O L L I Q U E E N The shoe label LO L L I Q U E E N has set a high goal for itself. With its extravagant, glamorous flip-flops, the Brazilian brand wants to offer an alternative to high-heels. The iconic flip-flops are designed in sophisticated colors featuring exciting patterns, so they can also be combined with a small black dress or even an evening gown. For the Fall 2017 season, the company hired various designers to implement its exciting design visions. S E V E N D A Y S C I R C U S An attractive game of proportions: Oversized pullovers and cardigans that meet short coats characterize the Fall/Winter 2017 collection by S E V E N D AY S C I R C U S and so do extremely soft, fluffy fabrics. Besides cotton and virgin wool, cashmere, alpaca, and silk are used too. In the coming season, the color palette is dominated by soft pastel colors, which – on the light wool yarns – bring out the collection’s sophisticated, modern character. S T A F F J E A N S – the denim artisans with a family tradition. Artisan is the one who knows and practices art, is proud to put his seal on a unique piece of art. S TA F F J E A N S has practiced the art of denim since its birth in 1992. All pieces are handmade and 100% made in Europe, using top-quality fabrics from the world’s finest textile companies. S TA F F J E A N S relies on the craftsmanship of its employees to create products aimed at contemporary city dwellers who appreciate true originality. Tradition, wisdom, details, passion, art, nature and respect are the key words behind the S TA F F J E A N S philosophy.

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phil goods Ⓡ Ⓡ Rehard

DRAKEWOOD

P H I L G O O D S is a young company from Berlin-Mitte which designs and distributes innovative regional products. Founded in 2007 by Philipp Berief, the company creates products that are both useful and beautiful: Colorful cookie cutters, lollies and wooden stacking toys as souvenirs and presents for young and old alike. P H I L G O O D S ’ designs are produced exclusively by local Berlin industry, a wooden toy producer in the Erzgebirge region and a manufacturing plant for handmade sweets in Berlin-Mitte. A workshop for people with disabilities in Berlin-Kreuzberg does the post-processing work for the raw articles and also assembles all products, stores them and sends them out – a collaboration that makes the young enterprise particularly happy. All P H I L G O O D S -articles are certified food-safe and the toys conform to EU-standards. D R A K E W O O D In the coming season, the men’s brand D R A K E W O O D focuses on two new types of yarn, which are behind the collection’s special designs. In cardigans, pullovers and jackets, the label’s purist-masculine lines sensually fuse with modern twotone looks and colorful knitted checks. In Fall 2017, D R A K E W O O D adds autumnal olive and rust tones to its blue, black and gray classics. R E H A R D stands for handcrafted high-quality bags that make a casual yet elegant statement. In addition to the brand’s passion for supple, light leathers, a love of exciting surfaces also plays an important role in the designs made by the Northern Italians. These include cool braiding styles with a very distinct look that comes from the use of new wash and dyeing processes, as well as various soft, smooth leathers that are crafted into innovative looks with a lot of love and experience.

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LUXURY NEEDNâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T COST THE EARTH VISIT EXHIBITION STAND 9.19 - HALL 9

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Ridgebake

Nagano

Alberville R I D G E B A K E Founded in 2011, R I D G E B A K E stands for a new, trendsetting generation of bag labels that resolutely meet the complex challenges of life in urban spaces. True to the motto “Carry. All. Let’s go,” multifunctional everyday utility items are developed that don’t just stylistically match the urban architecture surrounding them, but with a smart fusion of robust workmanship, highly detailed design and consistently thought through functionality, also demonstrate the right attitude in every situation. New bags for the 21st century. N A G A N O Back to the roots: N A G A N O returns to its roots: male, rough, tough, super authentic – with masculine and robust fabrics, always true to the motto: “Turning regular dudes into rough gentlemen.” Military, motorcycle and air force styles – the new collection’s jackets and denims show that testosterone can also be put on. In terms of quality and details, all kinds of things are going on: bags, specials, everything extra, everything in one line; badges and distinctive linings too. A L B E R V I L L E For the shoe brand A L B E R V I L L E , Scandinavian understatement meets perfect Italian craftsmanship. This is because the designs and manufacturing standards are influenced by the founder Anneli Jacobsson’s Scandinavian heritage and her various trips to southern Europe. The result: sneakers, boots and loafers with high wearing comfort, where classic design gets a twist.

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Lee

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STATE OF WOW

Pantone Universe Footwear

The L E E Fall/Winter 2017 collection takes the 70s-defining film “Love Story” as its starting point. Full of rich fabrics and wintry accessories. For men it means mixing the masculine looks of the decade with a preppy New England style. Whereas the women’s collection mixes the bohemian looks of the decade with an easy, preppy style that endures. L E E takes today’s trends, silhouettes and fabrics to create a truly contemporary 70s look and swaps out its original actors for modern-day influencers. P A N T O N E U N I V E R S E F O O T W E A R In 2016, PA N TO N E launched its first shoe collection under the brand name PA N TO N E U N I V E R S E F O O T W E A R . Pantone’s colors serve as an orientation point for all people who do creative work in the lifestyle and fashion world. The unexpected use of color is one of the brand’s three leitmotifs and underscores the coolness of the collections. Let colors rule! S T A T E O F W O W is cool, classic and clean headwear and accessories. The Fall/Winter 2017 collection from S TAT E O F W O W consists of classic beanies with a seasonal twist, the legendary dad cap in the colors of the season as well as the classic products S TAT E O F W O W is known for. The brand-new ALPHA Baseball Collection will also be displayed: a collection consisting of 30 soft baseball caps with the letters from the Latin alphabet embroidered on them. S TAT E O F W O W has been #CuringTheCapless since 2004

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Original PenguinⓇ HOW A PENGU I N WROTE A M E R I C A N FA S H I O N H I S T O R Y !

If a 100-year-old underwear factory in Minnesota seems an unconventional starting point for a fashion icon that has represented Americana since 1955 and is still worn all over the world today, blame Pete the penguin, and perhaps a whiskey or two. Abbot Pederson was an ambitious salesman who worked for the Munsingwear Undergarment factory in Minneapolis. On a sales trip to New York City in 1955, with some time to kill before a flight home, he decided to pop into a local bar. Stumbling out later to find a taxi stand, he took a wrong turn down a Manhattan street and found himself outside a taxidermist shop, staring at a display of penguins. Before he knew it, he had bought one of the penguins, named him Pete and was soon enjoying cocktails with him on the flight back to Minneapolis.

At some point during the flight, Pederson’s enthusiasm got the better of him and he accidentally knocked the head off Pete the penguin. A seductive stewardess, whose attention Pederson had been enjoying throughout the flight gently helped him remove his tie, then wrapped it around the penguin’s neck. As she did so, she joked that such a lucky dapper bird surely deserved to be immortalized – maybe even embroidered on a shirt similar to the one Pederson was wearing. Little did she know…

A N ZE I G E

WELCOME TO SEE OUR NEW COLLECTION 17 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 19 JAN 2017 NOVA CONCEPT HALL, HALL 9, STAND 9.04

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CINQUE

GUESSⓇ tigha C I N Q U E , the contemporary premium label, corresponds to the essence of the Italian lifestyle: inwardly passionate and emotional, outwardly always smart and casual. In Fall/Winter 2017/2018, everything is allowed that shows the coming season’s versatility: casual and hybrid looks; casual meets modern clothing; concise patterns on high-quality fabrics. And classics get a modern twist without overstating contemporary fashion claims. G U E S S Audacious and free-spirited – this is the G U E S S Jeans Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection, staging an extraordinary play of volumes, textures, embroideries and bold colors, and adding a touch of creativity to outfits made to impress. The women’s collection has three main inspirations: New Americana, Rodeo Drive and Biker Bandit in colors such as olive night, tulip red, cameo rose, true white, jet black, vivid yellow, raspberry. The men’s collection’s themes are: Sports Tailoring, Grunge Uniform and Dandy Night in shades of rich emerald, deep sea teal, rock and blue, purple mystery, discreet grey, marmont red and even Spanish pink. T I G H A ’s Fall/ Winter 2017 womenswear collection sets new standards for edgy and feminine outfits. Thanks to an ultra subtle yet refined color card – ranging from neutral black, grey and white to feminine red shades or shiny silver – this season’s designs can show to full advantage: Rock chicks will love the red and black check pattern on wool fabric, whereas sophisticated girls will embrace the airy, frilly and romantic ruffled looks. For those who prefer comfortable fits, there are oversized coats and jackets and a variety of streetwear-inspired items.

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PREMIUM by JACK & JONES

Ben Sherman

Marshall

P R E M I U M B Y J A C K & J O N E S is made by craftsmen, designed especially to fit and accentuate the male silhouette. These are garments in high-quality fabrics and designs. The P R E M I U M B Y J A C K & J O N E S collection derives its expertise and know-how from the J A C K & J O N E S heritage – a men’s only clothing brand concept that understands and breathes men’s comfort zone. We believe in style before fashion. We rework timeless pieces by including new cuts, detailing and seasonal trends. This is how P R E M I U M B Y J A C K & J O N E S inspires a man’s comfort and confidence – and provides a great value for your money. The B E N S H E R M A N Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection draws inspiration from iconic British music legends, at a time when style and originality represented the true spirit of being modern. Across three key themes Future Mod, Working Class Hero and Modern Dandy, the collection tells a cohesive story of British sports meets tailoring. With this in mind, key looks are sharp sports jackets and a jersey, combined with tailored items. Vintage military surplus is worn over sharp tailored suits. A mix of wool blends and cotton bonded parkas and button-down shirts feature mod patches. “Staying sharp and being original” has always been a mod mantra that remains as relevant today as it was in 1963. M A R S H A L L The legend comes to your home! You’ve been listening to the legendary “M A R S H A L L sound” for more than 50 years at concerts played by the best musicians in the world. But now it’s time to enjoy this unique sound experience at any time at home and on the go. M A R S H A L L offers this unique sound, which has made the manufacturer of amplifiers famous, in various headphone models and Bluetooth speakers.

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Bench

Kerbholz

Kleinigkeit

B E N C H , founded in the UK in 1989, offers fashionable yet functional lifestyle clothing for men, women and kids. Unique in its approach to design, the B E N C H collection focuses on developments in fabric and construction to create clothing that equips the wearer for a 24-hour lifestyle. Born initially as a small menswear brand with roots in skate and BMX culture, Bench has maintained its uniqueness, developing iconic products such as the hoodie to remain in tune to the cultural zeitgeist. K L E I N I G K E I T Under the motto “a little something for everyone and no problems for anyone,” K L E I N I G K E I T T E X T I L G M B H presents its brand K L E I N I G K E I T : simple streetwear with that special added something. The label focuses on expressive designs and eye-catchers that inspire, that rekindle memories and emotions, underscoring the wearer’s personality – on shirts, hoodies, caps, boxer shorts or kidswear. K L E I N I G K E I T stands for a particular attitude towards life: no problems in any aspect of life. So retailers can offer a more customer-oriented approach, K L E I N I G K E I T T E X T I L G M B H offers customizable designs for more authenticity and exclusivity. This joint effort means that the products can be positioned in a targeted manner setting them apart from the competition. K E R B H O L Z is a young German design brand that designs minimalist accessories made of environmentally friendly materials. In the spirit of the Bauhaus school, the K E R B H O L Z design is minimal design for maximum impact. Design objects for every day. Designed to sustain.

giannilupo.it

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Photography D I R K M E R T E N Styling C H R I S T O F P O S T

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Shirt by B E N C H Pants by C G â&#x20AC;&#x201C; C L U B O F G E N T S

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Left: Dress by B E N C H Right: Dress by T I G H A

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Top by G U E S S

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Top by G U E S S Jeans by W R A N G L E R Coat by T I G H A

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Shirt by S O L I D Bomber Jacket by T I G H A

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Overalls by T I G H A Suit by B E N S H E R M A N

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Shirt by B E N S H E R M A N Pants by C G â&#x20AC;&#x201C; C L U B O F G E N T S Top by M AV I Shorts by G U E S S

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Blouse by G U E S S Coat by O I L I LY

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P H O T O G R A P H E R : D I R K M E R T E N | | S T Y L I S T & P R O D U C T I O N : C H R I S T O F P O S T @ K U LTA R T I S T S | | H A I R : A N N E K R A R U P M A K E U P : I S C H R A K N I T S C H K E @ S T I E G E M E Y E R U S I N G C H A N E L | | M O D E L S : L U K A S @ P M A M O D E L S & L E N A @ M I R R R S M O D E L S & M AG A L I @ G I R L S C L U B M A N AG E M E N T | | A S S I S TA N T P H O T O G R A P H E R : SY LVA N & PA U L | | S T Y L I N G A S S I S TA N T : Y VO N N E

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Coat by G U E S S Top by F O R N A R I N A Pants by W R A N G L E R

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A SHOWCASE FOR MEDITERR ANEAN DESIGNERS

MAISON MÉDITERRANÉENNE DES MÉTIERS DE LA MODE The M A I S O N M É D I T E R R A N É ENNE DES MÉTIERS DE LA M O D E ( M M M M ) was founded in 1988 and is now the major showcase for the fashion industry in Marseilles, its surrounding region and in the Mediterranean. The MMMM actively participates in the economic vitality and creative dynamism of contemporary regional brands and labels, which generate 19,000 jobs and € 1 billion in sales. Its aim is to create synergies with regional and national institutions, the media and the general public. However, its main role concerns 2 missions, which are complementary and transverse in the domains of creation and training, with the objective of its O P E N M Y M E D Festival making Marseilles the French California of fashion. The M M M M gives regional labels and brands the unique opportunity to use its networks and media contacts. The M M M M reveals and

supports the New Mediterranean Fashion Scene, which involves labels from Marseilles, its local region and the Mediterranean, with numerous success stories, such as S E S S Ù N , SMAR I N, MAI D I N LOV E , DAV I D CATA L AN , A D I LEV, E S P I G AS , NOUVE LLE, C H A R L E S & R O N , VA N PA L M A , A N A Ï S G U E RY , M A D E M O I S E L L E H E CY , O C C I D E N T E and many more. As a fashion incubator, the M M M M discovers emerging labels and brands in the region, who as part of the M-LAB structure, benefit from specialized support in the important initial phase of creating a label. With personalized mentoring, being part of a network, and getting international visibility with the media and buyers, these young labels have the necessary advantages to develop in a sustainable way in their territory and on the international scene.

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Where? Halle 9 / Nova Concept Stand #9.33

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the KING

Interview

CUSTOMER R ALF STROTM EI ER

T H E C L I E N T, N O T T H E P R O D U C T, M UST BEC OM E THE PR I MARY OB JECT OF DESIRE !

Nadine Frommer and Christoph Stelzer, managing directors and co-founders of DFROST, a Stuttgartbased agency for retail identity, know a lot about German retail. And their knowledge by far exceeds the conf ines of the fashion industry. Strictly speaking, the two brand companions – as they call themselves – have for many years now been generating innovative, spot-on retail solutions at sites where shared experience and identity are to be created at the point of sale (POS). Their sustainable, consistent staging designs are not just there to be seen, but also to be felt and experienced with all our senses. Positive proofs of their talents include several internationally renowned awards. But it is also the ongoing enthusiasm of their clients that keeps Nadine Frommer and Christoph Stelzer on

their toes every single day, along with their agency’s team of 50 associates. This is a driving force – according to the two managing directors – that every stakeholder in the retail trade should internalize. For one, many of the structural problems dogging current projects would then fall by the wayside and be resolved to everyone’s satisfaction. Ms. Frommer, Mr. Stelzer, is there a future for site-based retail in Germany?

Nadine Frommer: There’s a lot to do, I agree. No doubt about it! After all, we’re by no means palliative care companions. Christoph Stelzer: If we didn’t believe that site-based retail has a future, we and our 50 associates would be well advised to look for a new field of activity. Because why keep on beating a half-dead horse? No, luckily enough we’re a long way away from such doom.

Your approach is one of critical market analysis vs. pure aesthetics. Why?

C. Stelzer: Because it suits our expectations as agency for retail identity not simply to produce beautifully designed stores that engage the customer’s will to have an experience and that provide spaces for identification, but primarily to deliver holistic solutions. No question, aesthetics are important. But relevance is too – at least as much. As pulse-makers we are of course always interested in carefully observing and understanding social phenomena, and also in critically scrutinizing industry developments.

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N. Frommer: It’s the only way we can anticipate the current cultural climate. But visions alone are not enough. We also have to engage in practical work to get there, which can mean that it will take lots of tiny, successive steps. W hat , in your opinion , is t he greatest challenge for site-based retail?

N. Frommer: I’ll try to be brief: excellence in heeding customer needs. The industry has to learn to operate in the interest of its clients. Is the good old credo “The customer is king” obsolete then?

N. Frommer: Was it ever valid in Germany, barring a few exceptions? Sure, I’m being subjective, but the industry has never met my own personal expectations as a consumer. It never did. The retail trade sector in Germany is always conceived to revolve around the product, not the customer. The problem is that in the past, in the days before the Internet, it could afford to do it that way – but now that’s certainly no longer possible.

What exactly do you mean by that? What has changed?

C. Stelzer: In the old days, the retail trade sector could act on the basis of the principle of residence [i.e., site-based sales]. Customers went to a store on the off chance of finding what they were looking for but without knowing they would. If they had the slightest suspicion that they’d be better off fulfilling their needs in another store that was better or cheaper, they had no other choice but to go from store to store. If they didn’t feel like doing that or had no time for it, they had to trust the retailer and defer to them. But when the smartphone was introduced, if not earlier, this old power structure was inverted. Which, by the way, is an irreversible development. And now the customer is often better informed than the store staff.

N. Frommer: You see? That’s what I mean! And that’s precisely the problem. But as long as sitebased retail clings to its original

Is this simply a vision or can you actually assist your clients when they’re engaged in such endeavors?

structures, its relationship with its customers will remain in trouble. So what can be done in your opinion?

C. Stelzer: Invest in service! And we’re not just talking about digital transformation here – that’s a whole new ball game. What we mean first of all is investment in sales staff. It seems that as long as other things are discussed, brands, the retail industry and associations are beginning to wake up – but not when it comes to brand ambassadors in the sales spaces. But it’s precisely the sales team that knows the stories behind the façade and that could convey all the sweet little details while providing personalized customer service. Anything else will have negative effects on the quality of brand staging and product presentation, but espe cially on customer service at the point of sale. N. Frommer: Like product assortment, store atmosphere and consistent product sourcing, customer service must also occur in a context that is inspiring, customer-focused and profes sionally implemented.

C. Stelzer: Additionally we’ve recently started work on a multi lingual and digital knowledge, inspiration and training platform for sales assistants. We call it My Helpdesk. What exactly can or should this platform do?

N. Frommer: To answer that I’d have to elaborate more. In a nutshell: It’s a useful tool that helps well-informed, interested and discerning customers to (once again) have access to qualified customer service. Sounds interesting complex.

and

very

C. Stelzer: Thank you! We think so too. If you want to know more about it, come to our presentation on January 18, 2017, at 2:00 PM in Hall 10. That’s when we really get down to the nitty gritty. Thank you very much for this conversation.

EXH I B ITIONS B E R LI N

T H I N K E R , T E A C H E R , I N S P I R AT I O N

On the occasion of Uli Richter’s 90th birthday, the Kunstgewerbe-museum presents some of the highlights of the Berlin fashion designer’s work. As one of the youngest major designers working in Berlin in the early 1950s, Uli Richter (born on December 28, 2016 in Potsdam) played an important role in forging a ‘made in Berlin’ style. Over the more than 40 years in which he worked as a fashion designer, he succeeded in reinvigorating and consolidating Berlin’s reputation as an international center of fashion. He taught at the Hochschule der Künste in Berlin (today known as the UdK) between 1986 and 1994 and inspired countless students in the process. The results of projects from his time at the UdK, including clothing, design sketches, and photographs, provide the viewer with a glimpse into Berlin’s young fashion scene in the 1980s and 1990s.

Bottom left: Uli Richter; graphite double-face reversible jacket with Norwegian pattern and princess dress, 1960, lace tweed, machine knit © State Museums of Berlin, Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Decorative Arts) / Bartsch Photo Studio, Berlin || Top right: Uli Richter for S & E Modelle: evening wear: pink velvet coat and pearl-embroidered etui dress, 1957, cotton velvet, jasmine mink, crêpe de Chine, rocaille and pen pearls © see above || Bottom right: Uli Richter for S & E Modelle; blue and white cocktail dress, 1959, printed silk organza © see above Top left: Heinrich von der Becke; Uli Richter with the models Gisela Ebel and Gitta Schilling at the presentation of his first collection, 1959 © photo archive of Heinrich von der Becke at the Berlin Sport Museum

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ULI RICHTER REVISITED D E C E M B E R 2 , 2 0 16 – M AY 5 , 2 0 17 M U S E U M O F D E C O R AT I V E A R T S M AT T H Ä I K I R C H P L AT Z 10 7 8 5 B E R L I N T U E – F R I , 10 A . M . – 6 P. M . S AT – S U N , 11 A . M . – 6 P. M . ADMISSION : EUR 8

HALLE A N5 ZE I G E STAND 5.15

DOGO Germany Hematek GmbH | HalberstĂ¤dter Str. 19 a | 33106 Paderborn | 05251 - 417 61 62 | info@dogo-germany.com

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EXH I B ITIONS B E R LI N

handmade by

FA I G A H M E D , M A R G R E T E I C H E R , S E E T VA N H O U T, V I C TO R I A M A R T I N I , Y U K I K O T E R A D A A N D PAT R I C I A W A L L E R

In the context of the Berlin Fashion Week 2017, the GALERIE D E S C H L E R is presenting an exhibition of various artists whose work involves fabrics. In presenting various international positions of textile art side by side in their commonalities and differences, it is hoped that a new light can be shed on the individual approaches and their strategies of creating meaning through art, as well as the way they navigate the territory of differing cultural contexts and traditions. Textiles almost always have a direct connection to the human body, which is clothed in fabrics for most of its life, with only brief exceptions, and whose skin is in constant contact with textiles. As a second skin to humans, fabrics have always played a large role in the history of culture and taken on a host of associations. Every one of us shares the haptic experience of this intimate connection of fabrics with the body, which in turn has always prevented textiles to be wholly subsumed under conceptual abstractions. The techniques employed, however, whether weaving, embroidery, sewing or crochet work, still to this very day are tainted by the somewhat derogatory classification as “mere” handicraft. On the one hand, this is an expression of existing social structures and hierarchies of power between different social classes, as well as between the genders. In employing these techniques in the context of “high art,” the artists in this exhibition always already and quite deliberately play with different levels of the construction of meaning. On the one hand, the slow and laborious nature of these

production processes stands in opposition to still dominant demands for efficiency and economy. On the other hand, the handmade has these days attained an exalted status that was quite unthinkable before the industrial revolution and its introduction of automatization in production. In consciously setting it apart from mass production by virtue of being handmade and exhibiting its characteristic small and individualizing deviations, it has entered the realm of luxury consumption and status: Handwoven carpets are far more expensive than those that are machine-woven. This, however, can in turn create a problem when transposed to the realm of art.

For here the element of competence in the craft has experienced a strong devaluation in favor of the purely conceptual since the beginning of modernism, to the degree that competence in the craft is often frowned upon as competence in nothing but the craft, and suspected of tainting, in its seductive beauty, the pristine purity of the conceptual component of a work of art. This blurring of the line between art and the crafts thus not only questions one of the central tenets of contemporary art, but also raises uncomfortable questions concerning the real but ideologically oftentimes unacknowledged intertwining of art and commerce.

Right page, below: Victoria Martini, “Smoke,” 2016, 80 x 85 cm, acrylic on canvas @ Galerie Deschler, Berlin top: Seet van Hout, “Memory Lace Lisboa”, 2010, strings on fabric @ Galerie Deschler, Berlin right: Patricia Waller, “Miss Piggy”, 2008 110 x 80 x 190 cm, wool, wire, filling wool, wood, plastic, crochet @ Galerie Deschler, Berlin

Left page: Margret Eicher, “The Five Virtues,” 2009 190 x 200 cm, wool @ Galerie Deschler, Berlin

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EXHIBITIONS

F O U R D E CA D E S O F FA S H I O N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY P E T E R LI N D B E R G H

Peter, the GREAT

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Right page: Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patitz, Helena Christensen, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Karen Mulder & Stephanie Seymour Brooklyn, 1991, Vogue US © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris / Gagosian Gallery) Versace, F/W 1991 - 1992 Left page, top: Peter Lindbergh London, May 2016 ©Stefan Rappo below: Christy Turlington, Tatjana Patitz, Peter Lindbergh, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford & Linda Evangelista, New York, 1990 Behind the scenes photograph, Vogue UK cover shoot © Jim Rakete

When German photographer Peter Lindbergh shot five young models in downtown New York City in 1989, he produced not only the iconic British Vogue January 1990 cover but also the birth certificate of the supermodels. The image didn’t just bring revered faces together for the first time, it marked the beginning of a new fashion era and a new understanding of female beauty. Coinciding with his major retrospective at the Kunsthal in Rotterdam, Netherlands, this book gathers more than 400 images from four decades of Lindbergh’s photography to celebrate his unique and game-changing storytelling and the new romantic and narrative vision it brought to art and fashion. Whether in striking single portraits or dramatic situations of figure and setting, we trace the photographer’s cinematic inf lections and his provocative play with female archetypes as subjects adopt the guise of dancers, actresses, heroines, and femmes fatales. Raw and seductive at once, we see how Lindbergh’s trademark monochrome pictures also redefined standards of beauty by emphasizing spirit and personality as much as looks, celebrating the elegance and sensuality of older women, and privileging natural and authentic beauty in an era of pervasive retouching.

In a testimony to Lindbergh’s illustrious status in the fashion world, his images are contextualized by commentaries from collabo-rators such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Nicole Kidman, Grace Coddington, Cindy Crawford, and Anna Wintour, who chose Lindbergh to shoot her first US Vogue cover. Their tributes explain just what makes Lindbergh’s images so unique and powerful.

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Left page: Lionel Vermeil, Helena Christensen & Marie-Sophie Wilson Paris, 1990, Vogue Paris © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris/Gagosian Gallery) Jean Paul Gaultier, S/S 1991 Right page: Michaela Bercu, Linda Evangelista & Kirsten Owen Nancy, 1988, © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris/Gagosian Gallery) Comme des Garçons advertising campaign, S/S 1988

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John Galliano Paris, France, 1996, Harper’s Bazaar © Peter Lindbergh (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris/Gagosian Gallery)

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Accompanying the exhibition is the book published by TA S C H E N Verlag: P E T E R L I N D B E R G H. A DIFFERENT V I S I O N O N FA S H I O N P HOTO G RAP HY Peter Lindbergh, Thierry-Maxime Loriot Hardcover, 23.9 x 34.0 cm, 524 pages € 59,99, ISBN 978-3-8365-5282-0 (German, English, French)

Right: Karen Elson & Milla Jovovich, Downtown, Los Angeles , California, USA, 2000, Vogue Italia © Peter Lindbergh , (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris/Gagosian Gallery), Helmut Lang, F/W 2000-2001 Left: Tina Turner , Paris, 1989, Stern © Peter Lindbergh , (Courtesy of Peter Lindbergh, Paris/Gagosian Gallery), Azzedine Alaïa, S/S 1989

EXHIBITION PETER LINDBERGH. A D I F F ER EN T V I S I O N O N FAS H I O N P H OTOG R A P H Y KUNSTHAL ROT TERDAM , NE THER L ANDS S E P T E M B E R 10 – F E B R U A R Y 12 , 2 0 17

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SHOPPING BERLIN

TASCHEN Store

NEW

HOTSPOT

THE

ART

AND

C U LT U R E

MAP

Verlag opened a spacious store with more than 300 meters of sales and exhibition space at Schlüterstraße 39 – just around the corner from the Kurfürstendamm. The store already promises to become a new hotspot on the city’s art and culture map. The shop’s light-filled interior was designed by Italian designer duo, Alberto Stampanoni Bassi and Salvatore Licitra, and has a lively Mediterranean flair. In five rooms, the store will present the entire T A S C H E N program in all its diversity. A special room is reserved for the collector’s and art editions, and a gallery area is reserved for limited prints. The store will also feature exhibitions in the future. The Berlin store is T A S C H E N ’s third store in Germany and the twelfth worldwide.

TA S C H E N

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Mario Testino M E N O F T O D AY

I N T H E H A L L S O F M A S C U L I N I T Y W I T H S T A R P H O T O G R A P H E R M A R I O T E S T I N O “The way men are seen in photography, in fashion, and the way that men look at pictures of themselves has changed in recent years. It is a subject that has come into focus: The masculine image, a man’s personal style, changing attitudes to the male face and body.” — Mario Testino. In SIR, his largest book to date, the influential photographer presents over 300 photographs in his search to define the allure of men. This book traces the evolution of male identity over the past three decades. Costume, tradition, gender play, portraiture, photojournalism, and fashion collide as Testino observes masculinity in all its modern manifestations: through the dandy and the gentleman, the macho and the fey, the world-famous face to the unknown passerby. Every photograph represents a unique point of view, and a new visual connection between photographer and sitter. With Josh Hartnett for V M A N (2005), Testino evokes the fall of Helmut Berger in the abyss of Luchino Visconti’s The Damned. Studies of Brad Pitt, George Clooney, Jude Law and Colin Firth are as candid as they are curious. David Beckham, David Bowie, Mick Jagger and Keith Richards feature for the courage they have taken in redefining male identity. Through a kaleidoscope of guises, these portraits define a period in which men’s changing role, style and appearance has never escaped Testino’s eye and impeccable intuition. SIR | by Mario T estino | Softcover | 27 x 35 cm | 508 pages | €59.99 | ISBN 978-3-8365-5372-8 | German, English, French

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You don’t stand a chance!

U S E I T.

Wöhrl and SinnLeffers are bankrupt. Zero, Kiki, and Strauss Innovation went to court. International chain stores such as Stefanel and Promod are insolvent, as are regional chain stores like Caro and Charly’s Modetreff. Charles Vögele is disappearing from the market. Swarovski is phasing out its Cadenzza shops, and Adidas its Neo shops. Local players like Sauer in Cologne, Nuova Moda in Saarbrücken and Quartier 206 in Berlin are closing. Brands such as Madonna, Passport, Vanilla, Baronia, Laurèl and St. Emile are insolvent or have been liquidated. Distributors like Steilmann, König Leatherwear and Umlauf & Klein have hit rock bottom. Esprit, Tom Tailor, Gerry Weber and Hugo Boss are restructuring. Bonprix is closing stores as well. Takko, NKD and K&L Ruppert are experiencing market fluctuations. There is a slump in sales at Scotch & Soda. Bogner is under pressure. Wolford is in the red. Triumph is cutting jobs. Even brands like H&M, Tally Weijl and Mango that have been winners over the past few years are struggling. For many players in the fashion market, 2015 was an annus horribilis. Yet, all these bad news reports contrast starkly with the current state of the economy in Germany, which is excellent. The German retail trade concluded the past year with a nice increase in sales. Ten years of economic upswing, record low unemployment rates and low interest rates have turned consumption into a major driver of German economic activity. However, most fashion retailers don’t seem to have benefited much from this boom. The money flows into other fields such as electronics, home furnishings or leisure activities. The textile trade, on the other hand, has pitted retailers against retailers in a deadly price war.

It’s Black Friday everyday. Such markdown strategies are due to people’s being tired of fashion in general and, in the case of the fall season last year, the late summer, of course. But what is mostly responsible for these steep discounts is competition fueled by new retail spaces and online suppliers. As such, they are the symptom of brutal cutthroat competitiveness. Outlet sellers profit from the excess supply. It’s no coincidence that FOC (factory outlet center) projects are booming; that TK Maxx and, soon, Saks Off Fifth are rapidly expanding, and shopping clubs such as BestSecret are achieving record prices from sales. It’s tough to imagine what all these industry fluctuations will do once the consumer climate worsens. And it’s only a matter of time until this happens. This year’s bad news can also be read differently – though that’s little consolation for those affected by crises and bankruptcies. With spot-on collections, Zara successfully delivers the latest trends and reports a high plus after restructuring. Undisturbed by the rest of the suffering market, Deichmann rolls out its branch network and occupies additional market niches with Onygo. Topshop is celebrating its German debut, while Primark, Decathlon and Calzedonia are rapidly expanding their presence in Germany. Aldi and Lidl are investing

in textiles and Kik is opening 160 new stores. C&A is putting a billion [euros] into giving its stores a new look. Adidas, Nike and Puma are profiting from big sports events, the sneaker boom and Rihanna. Signa is investing billions in the expansion of its three German luxury department stores. Karstadt is getting back on its feet and Kaufhof is off to a good start with a new owner. Retailers such as Röther and Fussl have discovered formulas for success that they have been multiplying for years. Brands such as Olymp, Opus and Marc Cain experience growth through the outstanding quality they offer and/or their excellent price-performance ratio. Retailers like Rabe and Digel record decent growth rates with solid products. All of this is happening beyond Amazon and Zalando, which, of course, are also continuing to expand their market shares and meanwhile earn lots of money. It’s a truism and yet true: The market is big and continues to offer many opportunities to retailers of all sizes – big and small, vertical and multilabel, online as well as brick and mortar. Success isn’t a question of store type; it’s about having a clear, well-designed concept and doing an exceptional job for customers. With each new season, retailers have the opportunity to adapt their concept and further refine it. Trade shows in places like Berlin set the tone and provide orientation.

Jürgen Müller is the author of P R O FA S H I O N A L S . With over 7,500 subscribers, it is the leading German-language fashion business blog. Müller worked for “ T E X T I LW I R T S C H A F T” for over 20 years, lastly as the editor in chief. Today, with his HR consultancy S U I T S ., he fills top positions in the fashion and lifestyle business.

We can assume that the consumer climate in fashion will continue to remain cool, making cost management essential. The competition, however, isn’t decided in the back offices. The controllers are supposed to do their job, but it’s the customers who pay their salaries. That’s why it’s now about sales more than ever before. This requires a special effort and more creativity – creativity that should not be exhausted in deadly discount actions. Bavarian filmmaker Herbert Achternbusch summed things up with this bon mot: “You don’t stand a chance. Use it!”

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