Wanderings by Tendances & Co, issue 6 by Groupe Nord Littoral

Wanderings

ISSUE 6

BY TENDANCES & CO

GOLF DE WIMEREUX - ISSUE 6 - EDITION AUTUMN-WINTER 2017/2018

T R AV E L - C U LT U R E - G A ST RO N O M Y - AC T I V I T I ES I N N O R D-PA S-D E-C A L A I S

CASE MACLAIM

KOBRA

street art BOULOGNE-SUR-MER

DOURONE DAVID WALKER

Boulogne-sur-Mer, with its rich 2,000-year history, presents a facet that largely stems from the rebuilding of the town following World War II. Thanks to the ÂŤStreet ArtÂť festival, walls and gables who are at the heart of this part of history now showcase a new look and make up an open sky gallery accessible to all.

This open sky gallery is to be discovered throughout several streets at your own pace.

www.ville-boulogne-sur-mer.fr/street-art

Wanderings BY TENDANCES & CO

he magazine Wanderings by Tendances & co is an invitation to cross the Channel in this end of year period, or to start the New Year with a great getaway to France, and more particularly to the Nord-Pas-deCalais.

Wanderings was made by Nord Littoral, Calais’ daily newspaper and cousin of the Kent Messenger. Our wish is to welcome you to our beautiful country. Only a few miles separate the British Isles from the continent and we know we have a lot of things in common. And also a lot of differences we can share with each other. These are a source of wealth for both our cultures. Christmas and the New Year are wonderful opportunities to discover the French way of life. In this Wanderings issue you will find tips and tricks to enjoy your visit to France, be it long or short. Rest assured that the legendary Northern welcome is very real! Whatever your reason for visiting, we want you to feel welcome.

David Guévart

CONTENTS ■ PAGES 4-5-6-7

Christmas Markets in the region

■ PAGES 8-9

■ PAGES 24-25

Centenary: In Flanders fields the poppies blow

■ PAGES 26-27

Christmas in Calais

Winter escape: medieval moats and modern manor houses

■ PAGE 10

Calais looks to the future

■ PAGES 28-29

■ PAGE 13

Gastronomy: the Michelin adresses

Winter escape: give golf a swing in Nord-Pas-de-Calais

■ PAGE 15

■ PAGE 30

Local figure: Christophe Noyon

Winter escape: cultural French Flanders

■ PAGE 16

■ PAGE 31

■ PAGE 20

■ PAGE 32

Winter escape: Boulogne-sur-Mer

Museum: the Louvre-Lens, an alternative art museum

■ PAGE 23

■ PAGE 33

Local figure: Thaddée Segard

Gastronomy: Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples

Local figure: Jonathan Morris

Events

Print run 10 000 copies Editor: David Guévart - Commercial Director: Jérôme Dimarcq - Writer: Géraldine John - Photographers: Géraldine John, Michel De Smedt Design and Production: Dominique Bouvier, Christine Delpierre, Cédric Marquant, Jean-Luc Hamez, Louise Beaumont, Kévin Domergue, Sébastien Théry, Benoît Mancuso Advertising: Carole Genot, Sarah Guerlain, Déborah Puma - Printed by Presse Flamande - Hazebrouck Reproduction of this magazine in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited. A Groupe Nord Littoral publication, 91 boulevard Jacquard, 62100 Calais. T.: +33 (0)3 21 19 12 12 - Partner: Kent Messenger.

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Winter Wonderland : Christmas Markets The Nord-Pas-de-Calais shows off one of its best sides during Christmas. Most towns and villages are lovingly decorated and lit up for the end-of-year festivities. Almost all of them have a special Christmas market, some lasting a few weeks, some only for a day or two. From the big markets in Arras and Gravelines, to medium-sized ones in Calais and small ones in Hardelot and Bergues, if Christmas markets are what you’re looking for, then our region has the best on offer.

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

©Brigitte Baudesson/ Béthune-Bruay Tourisme

Christmas in the region

©Brigitte Baudesson/ Béthune-Bruay Tourisme

Béthune Christmas Market

Béthune

Hardelot

The town of Béthune is turning into a Cité de Noël, or Christmas City. Father Christmas’ hut will be at the foot of the Belfry and his elves will be hard at work! Around thirty newly renovated and locally built wooden huts will be dotted around the Grand’Place offering local and handmade produce. At 5pm on December 6th Saint-Nicholas himself will be giving out gingerbread. At 5.30pm on Christmas eve Father Christmas will scale down the Belfry tower!

After a day visiting the famous castle at Hardelot, take the time to stroll through the town’s Christmas market, open from 10am to 6pm on December 16th and 17th in the town centre. More information at hardelot-tourisme.com

Lens

Discover Lens’ Christmas Village right in the heart of town. Other events around the Christmas Village include the ice rink, the carrousel, and the Christmas train on the place Jean Jaurès. Even Father Christmas will drop by.

Running from November 25th to December 31st on the town’s main square. Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays: 4pm to 8pm Wednesdays: 2pm to 8pm Fridays: 4pm to 9pm Saturdays and Sundays: 11am to 9pm For more information visit ville-bethune.fr

December 8th to December 23rd For more information visit villedelens.fr

Bergues

Bergues’ Christmas market has been going for more than 10 years on the place de la République. Entertainment will be provided: choir, Christmas concerts, meet and greet with Father Christmas, fireworks...

Calais

Located at the foot of the theatre, Calais’ Christmas market will showcase the best of local crafts and produce. December 8th to December 17th. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday: 4pm to 8pm Friday: 4pm to 9pm Saturday: 10am to 9pm Sunday: 10am to 8pm. Theatre. For more information visit noel.calais.fr

©Fred Collier / Ville de Calais

Saturday, December 9th: from 10am to 8pm Sunday, December 10th: from 10am to 7pm For more information visit bergues.fr

Calais Christmas Market WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Christmas in the region Arras

Enjoy the biggest Christmas market North of Paris. Arras goes all out each year to delight tourists who come from far and wide. With 100 exhibitors every year, the famous Grand’Place, or Main Square, is completely taken over by the magical Christmas village, complete with pine trees, wooden huts, an ice skating rink, a carousel and different workshops. Smell the roasting chestnuts, grab a hot chocolate and a waffle and enjoy the Christmassy atmosphere of Arras. See the festivities from above by taking a spin on the Ferris wheel or indulge by tasting a few oysters and some wine. Running from November 24th until December 30th, this Christmas market is not to be missed. Monday to Thursday: 12pm to 7.30pm Friday: 12pm to 9pm. Saturday: 10am to 9pm Sunday: 10am to 7.30pm December 24th: 10am to 5pm Closed December 25th Ends at 7.30pm on December 30th For more information visit explorearras.com

©Paper-Menthe

Arras Christmas Market

Gravelines

Generally accepted as one of the best Christmas markets of the Opal Coast, Gravelines really knows how to put on a show at Christmas. The town was even voted “Most Beautiful Christmas market of the Opal Coast” in 2015. Only craftsmen, food producers and local producers are allowed to exhibit at this traditional market. More than 100 exhibitors from all over the country are set up and ready to go for this nearly month-long Christmas market, starting on December 9th, and ending on December 30th. Saturday 9th, 16th, 23rd and 30th: 11am to 9pm Sunday 10th and 17th: 11am to 8pm Monday 11th to Friday 15th; from Monday 18th to Thursday 21st; from Tuesday 26th to Friday 29th: 3pm to 8pm Friday 22nd: from 3pm to 9pm For more information visit tourisme-gravelines.fr

Gravelines Christmas Market 6

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Aire-sur-la-Lys Christmas Market

Aire-sur-la-Lys

December 15th to December 21st, from 2pm to 7pm and until 8pm on Friday, Saturday and Sunday in the town centre. More information at ot-airesurlalys.fr

Bailleul

ÂŠPaper-Menthe

Right on the border with Belgium, Bailleul puts on a quaint traditional Christmas Market every year in the public gardens of square Plichon. Around 30 exhibitors turn up to sell crafts and produce. Friday, December 1st: from 4pm to 9pm Saturday, December 2nd: from 10am to 8pm Sunday, December 3rd: from 10am to 7pm For more information visit ville-bailleul.fr

Aire-sur-la-Lys Christmas Market WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Christmas in Calais

Calais Wants You! On June 24th, Calais invited 1,000 English people from all over the Southeast to enjoy a day out in town. Now, those lucky daytrippers have been called back to experience Calais during the festive period.

They were welcomed by Mayor Natacha Bouchart and given maps of the town, which they had free reign over. Many had already been to Calais but a few came over for the first time and were delighted to discover the many cultural aspects of the town, such as the lace museum, the chip shops - an institution - not forgetting the Town Hall and Belfry, and the maritime quarter.

Now, Calais has decided to call back the same 1,000 lucky people who won a daytrip in June, so they can see Calais at a different time of year. Many hotels, shops and restaurants are doing special offers for their special visitors, who have until December 17th to visit. Favourites such as the Café de Paris, La Sole Meunière, Fred, the Hovercraft, but also hotels such as Ibis and Le Cottage, supermarket Auchan and many bars are offering discounts. Calais is something special during Christmas. The town pulls out all the stops to make the end of year festivities really unique. This year, Christmas starts on November 25th. The fairy lights are on, the ice rink is operational and the Christmas market is a go from December 8th to December 17th. Smell the pine trees in the Magical forest set up in front of the Town hall until January 7th. If your child has forgotten to send their letter to Father Christmas, fear not, Calais has thought of everything: special red letterboxes are set up all over town so your letter will reach the North Pole in good time. The Christmas parade is not to be missed. On December 3rd, 12 floats will be led through town by the Christmas Train from 5.30pm onwards. Elves, acrobats, dancers, and snowmen will light up the night. If you’re looking for last minute Christmas presents, head over to the Christmas market set up in front of the Theatre. You’ll find local food and crafts all whilst breathing in the smell of roasting chestnuts and candy apples and indulging in mulled wine.

©Amandine Richard / Ville de Calais

Program and offers on : http://www.noel.calais.fr/en/

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Christmas in Calais

The Christmas Village and ice rink Place d’Armes

©Fred Collier / Ville de Calais

Monday, Tuesday, Thursday: 12am to 2pm / 4pm to 8pm Wednesday / Sunday: 11am to 8pm Saturday: 11am to 10pm During the school holidays (December 23rd - January 7th): Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday: 11am to 8pm Friday, Saturday: 11am to 10pm Prices: €1.50 for 30 min The ice rink will be closed on December 25th and January 1st Closes at 6pm on December 24th and 31st

Magical Forest Town Hall

From November 25th to January 7th

©Fred Collier / Ville de Calais

Christmas Market Theatre

December 8th to December 17th Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday: 4pm to 8pm Friday: 4pm to 9pm Saturday: 10am to 9pm Sunday: 10am to 8pm

©Fred Collier / Ville de Calais

Meccano lab 52 boulevard Jacquard Opening hours: Wednesday: 2pm to 5pm Saturday: 10am-12am / 2pm-6pm Sunday: 2pm to 6pm During the school holidays: Tuesday to Sunday: 2pm to 6pm

Christmas Parade From place Crèvecœur to place d’Armes December 3rd, from 5.30pm

Musical fireworks display “Rudolph the red nosed reindeer”

©Fred Collier / Ville de Calais

©Amandine Richard / Ville de Calais

Place Crèvecœur December 17th at 6pm

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Calais looks to the future

Calais is banking on the sea front Calais has made a huge effort to renovate its sea front recently. The ongoing process has already taken shape via a newly created green space with a sea view, just behind the maritime quarter. But that’s not all. French artistic director François Delarozière has been sought out by Mayor Natacha Bouchart to modernise and revive Calais’ sea front. Delarozière is known for his company La Machine and most notably for his steampunk-inspired mechanical larger-than-life animals. The dragon-horse Long Ma paraded through Calais in summer 2016, and La Machine’s famous mechanical elephant now resides in Nantes, where it carries members of the public around an island. François Delarozière is planning something similar for Calais: a 72 ft long and 39 ft high dragon will make its way across the sea front - weather permitting - carrying up to 60 people at a time. You’ll have to wait another couple of years to meet Calais’ new pet, but the 50 ton beast will have all the bells and whistles, namely sound effects, lighting, flames, water and smoke. Calais hopes to attract up to 1 million visitors. Other renovations include the expansion of the leisure port. Calais has a 130 metre long visitor’s dock that has accommodated 2,300 boaters this year. The town is also thinking of building an Arena that could seat 6,000 people. Intended opening is 2020.

Long Ma attracted thousands of visitors in 2016. Calais hopes to attract up to a million people with its new dragon.

François Delarozière has big plans for Calais: this 72 ft long «Dragon des Mers» will parade along the sea front

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

CALAIS

Your hypermarket ! ENINGS: SPECIAL OP 26TH

VEMBER SUNDAY NO D ECEMBER 3R SUNDAY D 0TH ECEMBER 1 SUNDAY D 7TH ECEMBER 1 SUNDAY D 4TH ECEMBER 2 SUNDAY D OSURE AT 6PM) AL CL (EXCEPTION T CEMBER 31S SUNDAY DE OSURE AT 6PM) AL CL (EXCEPTION

✃ CALAIS

Avenue Roger Salengro 62100 CALAIS FRANCE

OPENING HOURS : Monday to Thursday 8.30am to 9pm

Friday to Saturday 8.30am to 9.30pm Sunday 8.30am to 12.15pm

GET 10 OFF WHEN YOU SPEND

Open y a d n u S y r eve

morning

FROM THE TUNNEL : straight on to the A16, Exit Junction 41 or 43 FROM THE FERRY PORT : join the A16 and follow signs for «Boulogne». Leave the A16 at Junction 41

100 OR MORE

UNTIL DECEMBER 31st, 2017

SHOW THIS VOUCHER AT THE CHECKOUT TO GET YOUR DISCOUNT AUCHAN CALAIS

ANNONCE OUVERTURE DIM.indd 1

(W)

10/11/2017 11:04

Gastronomy

Michelin addresses The Nord-Pas-de-Calais boasts several Michelin-starred restaurants. Whilst most are located on the coast, those who are inland are not to be ignored. Le Cerisier is located in the heart of the Pays de l’Alloeu just a few miles from Lille. The one Michelin-starred restaurant was founded by Eric Delerue more than 30 years ago. Discover a magnificent red brick mansion and a chef who revisits classic ingredients and dishes. Website: lecerisier.com. T.: +33 (0)3 74 11 63 98 Address: 3 rue de la Gare, 62840 Laventie Dine like a president at La Grenouillère. Located right next to historical town Montreuil-sur-Mer, the two Michelin-starred restaurant offers a creative cuisine where Chef Alexandre Gauthier reinvents food like an alchemist. Website: lagrenouillere.fr. T.: +33 (0)3 21 06 07 22 Address: 19 rue de la Grenouillère, 62170 La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil The restaurant Haut Bonheur de la Table is located in the beautiful and pittoresque town of Cassel, near Dunkerque. Marie-Pierre and Eugène Hobraiche earned their first Michelin star only this year. After working for different restaurants in France and in Belgium, the couple decided to open their own restaurant in 2013. Their style regroups everything they have learned along the way in each different place they have traveled to. Website: hautbonheurdelatable.com. T.: +33 (0)3 28 40 51 03 Address: 18 Grand-Place, 59670 Cassel Wimereux’s La Liégeoise offers essentially beautiful fish produce. Father and son lovingly prepare oysters, turbot and of course scallops. This one Michelin-starred restaurant is right on the beach and boasts a panoramic view of the sea. Website: atlantic-delpierre.com. T.: +33 (0)3 21 32 41 01 Address: digue de Mer, 6 rue Notre Dame, 62930 Wimereux

Taste the best of traditional French seafood at La Matelote, a one Michelin-starred restaurant in Boulogne-sur-Mer. Chef Tony Lestienne knows how to enhance his produce. He opened his restaurant in 1979 and received his first Michelin star in 1982. Don’t forget to try the fresh, seasonal specialities. Website: la-matelote.com. T.: +33 (0)3 21 30 17 97 Address: 80 rue Sainte-Beuve, 62200 Boulogne-sur-Mer In a chic and luxurious setting, Meurin is located in the beautiful Château de Beaulieu. Chef Marc Meurin’s style is inventive and current. He sometimes alludes to molecular gastronomy but within reason. His two Michelin-starred restaurant is located between Bethune and Aire-surla-Lys. Website: le-meurin.fr. T.: +33 (0)3 21 68 88 88 Address: 1098 rue de Lillers, 62350 Busnes Le Pavillon is housed in the magnificent 1930s Westminster hotel in Le Touquet. Chef William Elliott has had a Michelin star for ten years. In a crimson and white setting, feast your eyes on the lovely Art Deco paintings by artist Tamara de Lempicka. Then let yourself be tempted by local produce turned into amazing dishes. Website:hotelsbarriere.com/fr/le-touquet/le-westminster/restaurantset-bars/le-pavillon.html. T.: +33 (0)3 21 05 48 48 Address: avenue du Verger, 62520 Le Touquet-Paris-Plage

Château de Beaulieu WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Welcome to the best of French cuisine in Calais L’Histoire Ancienne

Aquar’aile

Au Côte d’Argent

Chef Patrick Comte serves a revisited cuisine in the bistrot-style tradition with only fresh seasonal produce. The restaurant itself is decorated in authentic Art Deco style.

Aquar’aile is located on the 4th floor of the Ridens residence on Calais’s sea front. You won’t find a better view of the beach than this. The restaurant also offers cooking lessons where pupils create a menu with Chef Jean-Pierre Morichon and Claude-Arnaud Caillet, the patisserie chef.

Dining in our seafront restaurant is like being on a cruise liner with its unassailable views across the English Channel. Our cooking uses only fresh products and strongly favours local produce whether it be seafood or meat and vegetables from our region.

Address: 20 rue Royale, 62100 Calais T.: +33 (0)3 21 34 11 20 Website: histoire-ancienne.com Closed on Sundays and on Monday evenings

Address: 255 rue Jean Moulin, 62100 Calais T.: +33 (0)3 21 34 00 00 Website: aquaraile.fr Closed on Sunday evenings

Address: 1 digue Gaston Berthe, 62100 Calais T.: +33 (0)3 21 34 68 07 Website: cotedargent.com Closed on Sunday evenings and on Mondays

La Sole Meunière

Les Dunes

Le Grand Bleu

In an elegant setting, enjoy a refined cuisine with the best of sea and land. The whole team is passionate about food and service.

Just the other side of Calais, the restaurant Les Dunes shows the way to Cap Blanc-Nez and the rest of the Opal Coast. Sea food platters and fresh fish will delight your taste buds.

Located near the port of Calais, gourmet restaurant Le Grand Bleu isn’t just a restaurant. It also offers cooking lessons and has a catering service.

Address: 1 boulevard de la Résistance, 62100 Calais T.: +33 (0)3 21 34 43 01 Website: solemeuniere.com Closedon Sunday evenings and on Mondays

Address: 48 route Nationale, 62231 Blériot-Plage T.: +33 (0)3 21 34 54 30 Website: les-dunes.com/restaurant Closed on Mondays and on Sunday evenings

Address: 8 rue Jean Pierre Avron, 62100 Calais T.: +33 (0)3 21 97 97 98 Website: legrandbleu-calais.com Closed on Tuesday, Wednesday and Sunday evenings during low season

Gastronomy

Christophe Noyon

Drink responsibly

Brewing on his homeland

After working for DuPont for 13 years, Christophe Noyon set up his own brewery, La Brasserie des 2 Caps, in 2003. Nearly 15 years later, he’s still going strong. So strong that he’s invested in new machinery and even delivers beer to Arpège, a three Michelin-starred restaurant in Paris, and to La Matelote, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Boulogne-sur-Mer. Now, he’s investing in himself by following a course to learn how to make whisky. At the Belle Dalle farm, in Tardinghen, Christophe Noyon grows his own crops on his 63 hectare land. With the help of his wife Alexia and two other brewers, he also brews, bottles and sells his own beer, all on site. He decided to start brewing back in 2003, as a tribute to his ancestors. “My grandfather had a distillery nearby, and my father worked there

too.” Making beer on his homeland just made sense. So he followed in his father’s footsteps and got a degree in beer making in Belgium. He decided to set up his brewery in his old home so the farm wouldn’t go to waste. It had been in ruins for 40 years. The soil is also very suitable for beer making and for distilling whisky, which Christophe plans to do in the upcoming years. He compares brewing beer to being a chef: “But much more complicated! You have to wait five to six weeks to get the full flavour, and then you have to adjust until you get it right.” Christophe Noyon now brews eight different beers, including one named D-Day, which exists in three flavours. The idea behind it was to commemorate the famous war operation. The beer is commercialised in Auchan in Cherbourg, and the blonde version won a gold me-

dal at the Concours Général Agricole in Paris in 2014. Another famous beer of his is the vintage Belle Dalle, named after the farm and brewed exclusively on site. The brewery is open on Fridays and Saturdays from 10am to 7pm. Closed between Christmas and New Year. During school holidays, the shop is open during the week. Guided tours are available during the summer, but group tours are available all year round by appointment, and if there is a minimum of 25 participants, for €4.50. Ferme La Belle Dalle, 62179 Tardinghen. T: +33 (0)3 21 10 56 53. E-mail: noyon.brasseur@wanadoo.fr

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Local figures

Thaddée Segard To him local means cross-Channel

The French businessman and commerce ambassador for the Opal coast founded French Deals, a cross-Channel marketing agency, a few years ago. “I help UK businesses take their first steps on French territory by analysing their whole business. Then, I arrange for them to meet local entrepreneurs.” Language is no barrier because “people who do the same job speak the same language”. Thadée Segard specialises in Kent businesses because they are usually smaller in size and have more difficulties exporting to France and the rest of continental Europe. By testing the waters in Calais, they can get a realistic idea of

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

what the rest of the market is looking for. The businessman specifically researches companies who sell typical British products that have potential in France, such as scones, chutney or cheese, but he also helps out property agencies. Before setting up his marketing agency, Thaddée Segard worked on stone quarries, near Marquise. He decided to set up his own company trading stone and lived in Tunisia for seven years. He moved to Tardinghen, on the coast, in 2001. “It was only in 2006 that the gap between the Opal coast and Kent really hit me.” Now, he is a fervent defender of across-Chan-

nel underground project. “Calais is 25 minutes from Lille and Ashford is 40 minutes from London, and there’s nothing between the two!” And Brexit won’t come between him and his enthusiasm for bringing Kent and Calais closer together. “Kent can bounce back by using Calais, now is the time to invest in Calais. Life is a rollercoaster. I remember in 1975 when England was very late compared to us and Calais and Boulogne were prosperous regions, now it’s the opposite. Times change, and it takes time to see those changes. Yes, Calais is a bit downtrodden. For now.”

Channel Outlet Store

©CÉDRIC DANONVILLE

The outlet shopping centre near Calais

Welcome to the Channel Outlet Store, a fashionable and trendy complex with 30% discounts on prices, all year round. Easily accessed from Lille, Belgium and England, and just a stone’s throw from the beach, the Channel Outlet Store is the Opal Coast’s leading shopping destination with more than 100 famous brands.

©CÉDRIC DANONVILLE

In a bright and welcoming environment, let yourself be tempted by our exceptional brands to delight the entire family. OPEN Monday to Saturday from 10 am to 7 pm SPECIAL OPENINGS IN DECEMBER: SUNDAY DECEMBER 3rd, 10th and 17th, 2017 for Sundays & public holidays check our website. Comment rendre à Channel Outlet Store How to getvous to the Channel Outlet Store OSTENDE

MER DU NORD

LA PANNE DUNKERQUE

E40

BELGIQUE

CALAIS

COQUELLES

BOULOGNESUR-MER

ST-OMER LILLE BÉTHUNE

LE TOUQUET

ABBEVILLE

ARRAS

Ouvert du lundi au samedi de 10 h à 19 h Boulevard du Parc - 62231 Coquelles A16 sortie 41 à 5 minutes de Calais Parking gratuit

Channel Outlet Store

Boulevard du Parc - 62 911 Coquelles Cedex Tel: +33 (0) 3 21 17 07 70 Highway A16 – Exit 41 – Direction Calais www.channeloutletstore.com/en/ WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

French getaway

Take the scenic rou

From Calais all the way down to Berck-sur-Mer, the D940 is the scenic route of the Opal Coast. to discover the jewels of the Opal Coast: cap Blanc-Nez and cap Gris-Nez, the two towering c of the most elegant and picture-worthy towns, such as

First stop after getting off the ferry or Shuttle is SANGATTE-BLÉRIOT-PLAGE, at the foot of CAP BLANC-NEZ. Take a stroll through the villages and drive up to the cliff, where a breathtaking view awaits. On a clear day you can see Dover and to your left you can just make out the second cliff, GRIS-NEZ. Pretend you’re king of the world as the wind hits you on the belvedere.

Further down the road is WISSANT, where Charles de Gaulle owned a house. Look out for the plaque on the wall. Lots of Belgians, Germans and even Parisians have second homes in Wissant for a weekend or summer getaway.

After you’ve visited CAP GRIS-NEZ - the closest point to England - and possibly dined at the restaurant La Sirène, positioned right at the foot of the cliff with panoramic views of both cap Gris-Nez and Blanc-Nez, head down to colourful and high-end WIMEREUX. Its villas recall the “Belle Époque”. Make the most of the seaside resort and avoid the traffic by going out of season.

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

te down the D940

. Just over two and a half hours separate the coastal towns, but along the way you’ll get cliffs that offer a clear view of Albion and its own cliffs. You’ll also drive through some s Wimereux, Boulogne-sur-Mer and Ambleteuse.

CAP B L

D940 C-NEZ AN

CALAIS SANGATTE-BLÉRIOT-PLAGE COQUELLES

WISSANT

C AP

Not far, you’ll drive down to BOULOGNE-SUR-MER, a crossroad between Roman, Napoleonic and Medieval architecture, with its domed cathedral, its fishing port and its modern side, rebuilt after World War II. Its main feature, though, is Nausicàa, one of Europe’s biggest aquariums.

S-N

WIMEREUX

BOULOGNE-SUR-MER

Just before arriving in Berck-sur-Mer, stop in ÉTAPLESSUR-MER, a town that has - along with Boulogne-surMer - a long fishing history. Its heritage is on display at Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples a four-in-one, one-stop-shop for all things fish-related. It boasts two restaurants (a brasserie and a more high-end restaurant), a fishmongers, a delicatessen and even a clothes shop.

ÉTAPLES-SUR-MER

Finally, arrive in BERCK-SUR-MER, known for being a spa resort and also for its large expanse of sandy beach. Every year in April thousands of kites brighten up the sky for the International Kite Festival. It’s the place to be, just like the rest of the Pas-de-Calais.

BERCK-SUR-MER

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Winter escape

The old city of Boulogne-sur-Mer is hidden in plain sight Boulogne’s 12th century belfry has a World Heritage Site status. It is the oldest building in the upper city, and currently serves as the home to a museum of Celtic remains from the Roman occupation.

Mixing ancient with modern

The castle-turned-museum of Boulogne-sur-Mer, château Comtal, is also worth a visit. It is a small museum but its collections are diverse. One of the most notable ones is the Alaskan masks collection but the museum also houses Egyptian and Oriental art. The fortified castle has seen many developments over the years: it was built in the 13th century under Philippe Auguste’s reign. In 1659 the castle was done up and turned into barracks. In 1944 it became a prison. It was turned into a museum in 1974. The museum is open from 10am to 12.30pm and from 2.30pm to 5pm during low season. For more information call +33 (0)3 21 10 02 20. Guided tours are provided by the Tourism Office all year round. For more information or to book a tour, email resagroupes @tourisme-boulognesurmer.com or call +33 (0)3 21 10 88 18. Address: 1 rue de Bernet, 62200 Boulogne-sur-Mer The imperial palace hôtel Désandrouin, rue du Puits d’Amour, was built in 1777. Napoléon the 1st stayed in the neo-classical style palace a few times and the palace still houses his bedroom and office. It is open to the public for

summer tours. Much more than an aquarium, the Nausicaa French National Sea Experience Centre is a unique place where visitors can discover the marine environment. Entertaining, educational and scientific, the Centre’s main focus is the relationship between Mankind and the Sea. Nausicaa’s large aquariums give a sense of underwater exploration and its state-of-the art technology is displayed in a theatrical way to appeal to our imagination. Nausicaa is open every day from 9.30am to 6.30pm. The aquarium is closed on December 25th, January 1st and from January 8th to February 2nd. Website: nausicaa.fr. Address: boulevard Sainte-Beuve, 62200 Boulogne-sur-Mer Finally, take a stroll on Boulogne-surMer’s ramparts. It is northern France’s best conserved fortified site. The ramparts were built between 1227 and 1231 by Philippe Hurepel, son of King Philippe Augustus. The four gates have barely changed since olden times and provide access into the old town. They also lead the way to steps onto the watchman’s way along the top of the walls.

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

The town of Boulogne-sur-Mer is constantly reflecting on how to best show off its 2,000 year history and culture all while continuing to develop its concept of an art and history city. This time, the city is thinking big to develop a positive impact so that visitors as well as inhabitants see Boulogne-sur-Mer as a city of art and history. They can visualise a tour of the city through urban street art. The goal is to project a more positive image of the city where artistic creation finds a place of its own. So the town called upon famous street artists, like David Walker, to “dress-up” the town. Street art takes a city or a street as it is and adapts to its natural scenery. Ten street artists from all over the world have taken over the streets of the city to show off a side of its history. Unsurprisingly, you’ll find a traditional Courguinoise, the nickname for women who used to fish for prawns in Northern coastal towns, but you’ll also find more abstract and futuristic graffiti. The art is dotted around town. Here are the addresses to see them all: 31 rue de l’Amiral Bruix - by British artist David Walker Rue Saint-Louis - by French artist Nikodem 120 rue Faidherbe - by Canadian artist Jarus 22 rue des Carreaux - by Spanish artist Dourone 5 place de Picardie - by German artist Mundinguer 18 rue de la Barrière Saint-Michel - by French artist 4Letters 2 rue Dutertre et impasse Lacour - by Brazilian artist Kobra 35 rue des Pipôts - by German artist Case_Maclaim 7 rue Adolphe Thiers - by Argentinian artist Alaniz At the angle of 32 rue Jean Jarrett and rue du Camp de Droite - by French artist Shadow Find artist descriptions on ville-boulogne-sur-mer. fr/street-art/

Confort

in Calais

Located right in the heart of Calais between the Town Hall and the theatre. Five minutes away from the beach, the Brit Hôtel Confort has 65 modern and comfortable rooms.

BRIT HOTEL CONFORT CALAIS 2 rue des Soupirants - 62100 Calais Tél : 00 33 (3) 21 46 14 00 - E-mail : calais@brithotel.fr

L’HAUT’AILE in Coquelles

Located in Coquelles, just a stone’s throw from the Channel Tunnel and the Cité Europe, the Haut’Aile is a modern and eco-friendly hotel composed of 49 rooms, including a luxury suite, a restaurant and two conference rooms.

L’HAUT’AILE COQUELLES Avenue des Longues Pièces - ZAC Les Terrasses - 62231 Coquelles Tél : 00 33 (3) 21 46 40 00 - E-mail : ha6218@inter-hotel.com

Gastronomy

Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples From the sea, to the stall, to your plate: the best of the sea in one place. With a brasserie, a more gastronomical restaurant, a fishmongers and a shop all on the same site, Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples is your one-stop shop for all things fish. The complex was created by the maritime cooperative of Étaples more than 30 years ago (see below). The restaurants also boast a panoramic view of the Canche Bay and its small leisure port. Seafood doesn’t come fresher than this. Gourmet restaurant Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples picks out its catch of the day from the fishmongers housed just below it. Then, Chef Gérard Auvray turns the amazingly fresh produce into a meal you won’t forget. Most of the fish comes from Boulogne-sur-Mer, a mere thirty minutes up the coastline. The restaurant only works with “noble” products such as turbot, lobster, spiny lobster and sole. If you decide to visit outside of lunch and dinner hours, you can still purchase all your fresh seafood from the fishmongers. The delicious coquille Saint-Jacques, or scallop, is in season until mid-April. Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples elevates the shellfish by grilling it and serving it with a delicious sauce. For Christmas, the inevitable dish is obviously a seafood platter of all the best “fruits de mer” the sea has to offer.

From strength to strength

Ten years ago a sister restaurant, Planète Océan, opened right next door to the main restaurant. Same produce, different menus. Planète Océan has more of a brasserie vibe but with the same panoramic view of the Bay. The idea is to provide more accessible seafood. In April, the Comptoir de la Mer shop was added to the complex. Also created by the maritime cooperative, the shop sells sea-themed decoration and souvenirs but also boating accessories and fishing rods for professionals, leisure boaters and tourists. Étaples’ tourism office has just received an AFNOR certification, which marks the town’s huge efforts to attract tourists. The only other town in the Pas-de-Calais to have this certification is Le Touquet. Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples is open for lunch (12pm to 2pm) and dinner (7pm to 9.30pm last entry time) every day except Sunday evenings. Booking is strongly recommended: +33 (0)3 21 94 06 90 Planète Océan is open for lunch and dinner except Monday evenings during the winter period. The bar is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10am to 6pm. Booking is recommended: +33 (0)3 21 09 42 92 Address: quai de la Canche, boulevard de l’Impératrice 62630 Étaples-sur-Mer

Zoom: The maritime cooperative of the town of Étaples (Coopératives Maritimes Etaploises). It created Aux Pêcheurs d’Étaples 34 years ago. Back then it was only a shack used to cook your own prawns. A few years later the shack became a proper fishmongers. The restaurant “Au Pêcheurs d’Étaples” came soon after and is now a well-known address of the Opal Coast and the Canche Bay.

Find your fresh fish at the fishmongers below the restaurant. The restaurant has an amazing view of the Canche Bay. WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Centenary

In Flanders fields the poppies blow… Due to its geographical location between England and Germany, the Pas-de-Calais has always played an important role in the conflicts that have shaped European and world history. During World War I the region became a strategic target for the Allies and the Central Powers mostly because of the coal and mining resources. The Pas-de-Calais was one of the main theatres of the conflict with many battles, including the Battle of Vimy Ridge assault during the Battle of Arras. As the centenary of World War I comes to an end, we thought we’d share the region’s most symbolic sites of the Great War.

Currently, there are 650 military cemeteries throughout the Nord-Pas-de Calais as well as large memorials such as the Canadian National Vimy Memorial, opened in 1936. The crest of Vimy and the iconic white marble memorial dominate the mining basin. The site commemorates the battle of April 9, 1917 when Canadian soldiers wrested Vimy from German forces. Along with preserved trench lines, underground passage and several other memorials are contained within the park. To commemorate the centenary of the battle, Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and then-French president François Hollande both made speeches at the Memorial centre. Trudeau said: “Canada was born here”. The site is open year round. The visitor centre, guided tours and underground tunnels are open Tuesday to Sunday from 9am to 5pm and Monday from 11am to 5pm. Address: Vimy Memorial, Parc Mémorial Canadien, chemin des Canadiens, D55, 62580 Vimy

The National Vimy Memorial pays tribute to the thousands of Canadian soldiers who died in France

Notre-Dame-de-Lorette is the world’s largest French military cemetery. It dominates the otherwise flat Douai plain and the town of Arras. It was the focal point the © Yan Battle of Arras and the three Battles nic kC of Artois. The necropolis was inauguad a rt rated in 1925 and more than 40,000 people are buried in a 61 acre surface. From October to March the site is open from 8.30am to 4.15pm. The Notre-Dame basilica is closed for refurbishment until September 2018. Address: Notre-Dame-deLorette, chemin du Mont de Lorette, 62153 Ablain-Saint-Nazaire

It is thought that Canadian doctor John McCrae began the draft for his poem “In Flanders Fields” on the evening of May 2nd, 1915 after the death of his friend Alexis Helmer during the Second Battle of Ypres. As a doctor, John McCrae was often shuffled around the region to tend to soldiers on different battle sites. He was stationed in Boulogne-sur-Mer a mere month after writing his now famous poem and died in 1918. He is buried in Wimereux communal cemetery.

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Notre-Dame-de-Lorette

The names of 580,000 soldiers are engraved on the «Anneau de la Mémoire» at Notre-Dame-de-Lorette

World War II “ We shall fight on the beaches ”

A strategic location as well as a living space, the Wellington Quarry at Arras, named Wellington by the New Zealand sappers, preserves the memory of those thousands of soldiers quartered underground just a few metres from the front before launching themselves onto the field of battle on April 9th, 1917 in a surprise attack on the German positions. This town beneath the town saved the lives of many men during the assault. Open every day all year round from 10am to 12.30pm and from 1.30pm to 6pm. Closed January 1st, the four weeks following the Christmas holidays and December 25th. Full price: €7. Concessions (children and students): €3.30. The temperature down the tunnels is of 11°C all year round. It is important to wear warm clothing. Website: carrierewellington.com. Address: rue Arthur Delétoille, 62000 Arras. T.: +33 (0)3 21 51 26 95

Christopher Nolan’s Dunkirk was filmed on the beaches of the Northen town

Throughout the Second World War, the region was more heavily damaged than any other part of France. Although most of the region was liberated in September 1944, Dunkerque was the last French town to be freed from German occupation on May 9th, 1945. The eponymous Christopher Nolan film loosely retraces Operation Dynamo and the evacuation of the British Expeditionary Force and Allied troops in May 1940. More than 340,000 troops were evacuated between May 26th and June 4th. Churchill’s famous speech “We shall fight on the beaches” was delivered on June 4th. The town had already suffered bombings during World War I and was largely destroyed after World War II. Stroll through the streets of Dunkerque and stand on the beach where thousands of soldiers once stood waiting to be evacuated.

Étaples-sur-Mer cemetery

During the Great War, the area around the small fishing port of Étaplessur-Mer was the scene of immense concentrations of Commonwealth reinforcement camps and hospitals. It was remote from attack, except from aircraft, and accessible by railway from both the northern and the southern battlefields. At its peak, 100,000 troops were housed there with Commonwealth army training and reinforcement camps and an extensive complex of hospitals. Today, Étaples-sur-Mer is home to the largest Commonwealth war cemetery in France. No less than 12,000 soldiers are buried there. The cemetery was unveiled on 14 May 1922, by King George V and General Douglas Haig. From October to March the site is open from 10am to 12.30pm and from 2pm to 6pm. The site is closed in the mornings on Sundays and bank holidays. Address: Cimetière militaire d’Étaples, D940, 62630 Étaples-sur-Mer

La Coupole

German bunker La Coupole was built by the Todt Organisation in 1943-1944. It was the base for launching the V2 rockets against London. Developed in the secret Peenemünde centre by Von Braun’s team, these missiles were the most innovative devices developed during World War II. Heavily bombed by the Allies, La Coupole was abandoned during the summer of 1944 after the Normandy landings. The site was turned into a History and Memory Centre in 1997. La Coupole is open year round from 9am to 6pm. Address: rue André Clabaux, 62570 Wizernes. For more information call +33 (0)3 21 12 27 27 or visit lacoupole-france.com

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Winter escape

Medieval moats and modern manor houses From turrets to battlements, the Nord-Pas-de-Calais has many castles to visit, even during the winter. Some, like Hardelot and Comtal, are now museums whilst others like Tilques and Cocove are now hotels. Here are our picks.

The 19th century manor house regained its Victorian atmosphere in 2014. From the dining room to the smoking room - not forgetting the library and private apartments - the castle of Hardelot mixes both French and British influences from William the Conqueror’s era all the way to modern times. The manor house was finished in the 19th century. It was built on foundations dating back to 1222. It has nine turrets circled by two large moats and is built on a hill that dominates over the marshland and the “lake of mirrors”. The General Council of the Pas-de-Calais decided to save the site in 2001 so it could house the Entente Cordiale cultural centre, dedicated to the relationship between England and France. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 1pm and from 2pm to 6pm until December 31st. The castle reopens on April 21st. The tea room is open Friday to Sunday from 12pm to 6pm Website: chateau-hardelot.fr. Address: 1 rue de la Source, 62360 Condette. T.: +33 (0)3 21 21 73 65

Philip Bernard ©Dpt du Pas-de-Calais 2017

Château d’Hardelot

Château de Philiomel The château de Philiomel dates back from the 19th century in napoleonic times. Today it is the ideal spot to take a breath and have a pleasant time. It has reception rooms and has a number of guest rooms. Located a few miles from the Louvre-Lens museum, the guest house is in the heart of a 74 acre woodland park. Take time to have a walk through the park then have a game of billiards in the games room. Website: lechateaudephiliomel.com. Address: 135, rue philiomel, 62190 Lillers. T.: (0)3 21 61 76 76 Château de Philiomel

Château Cléry

Château de Brias

Ten minutes away from Boulogne-sur-Mer, the Najeti Hôtel Château Cléry is located in an old mansion that now holds 25 rooms and two suites. It also has a restaurant, Le Berthier, a nordic sauna and 12 acres of woods to stroll through. Website: clery.najeti.fr. Address: rue du château, 62360 Hesdin-l’Abbé. T.: +33 (0)9 70 38 45 19

The château de Brias is in the village of Brias. It is actually a manor house built near the old castle that was destroyed during the French Revolution. The manor house was General Foch’s headquarters in World War I and a German command post in World War II. It was used as a set for the 2005 film “Joyeux Noël” about the World War I Christmas truce of December 1914. Address: rue du Château, 62130 Brias

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Château de Cocove

Château de Cocove Built in the 18th century, the château de Cocove is now a 4-star hotel positioned on the small hill of Recques-sur-Hem. Nestled in 27 acres of woodland, the hotel and restaurant offers tranquility and privacy for all occasions. Website: chateaudecocove.com. Address: 2 avenue de Cocove, 62890 Recques-sur-Hem. T.: +33 (0) 3 21 82 68 29 Château de Cocove

Château de Tilques This 19th century manor house was built in 1891 and repurposed into a luxury hotel near Saint-Omer. It offers the authentic charm of the French countryside. The building itself is a superb example of the Flemish Renaissance style. Website: tilques.najeti.fr. Address: 12 rue du Château, 62500 Tilques. T.: +33 (0)9 70 38 40 69

Château de Beaulieu

Château de Tilques

In a chic and luxurious setting, Meurin is located in the beautiful Château de Beaulieu. Chef Marc Meurin’s style is inventive and current. He sometimes alludes to molecular gastronomy but within reason. His two Michelin-starred restaurant is located between Bethune and Aire-sur-la-Lys. Website: le-meurin.fr. T.: +33 (0)3 21 68 88 88 Address: 1098 rue de Lillers, 62350 Busnes.

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Winter escape

Give golf a swing in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais During the winter period the golf courses of the Opal Coast are open for business. Even better, all of them have special low-season prices. The Nord-Pas-de-Calais has its fair share of golfing greens and is the first golfing destination for Brits. Some were founded more than a hundred years ago like the ones in Hardelot, Le Touquet and Wimereux. Whilst most golf courses are located on the coast, a few are inland. Here are our best picks.

Les Golfs d’Hardelot

Arras Golf Club

Like other golf courses in the region Les Golfs d’Hardelot has special offers during the winter period. This magnificent golf course is in the 2018 top 100 golf courses in continental Europe. Each golf course - Les Pins and Les Dunes - is separated by two kilometres and each has its own unique personality. Both courses have their own clubhouse, restaurant and pro shop, and are hidden away in a luxuriously green woodland environment. The Pins golf course was designed in 1934 by British architect Tom Simpson in a superb forest, and the Dunes golf course was designed in 1991 amid panoramic lake views. Both golf courses are 18-hole. Green fee during low season: 18-hole Pins or 18-hole Dunes: €55 36-hole Pins and Dunes: €80 2x18-hole Pins: €80 Twilight fee after 2pm: 25% off 9-hole after 3pm: 50% off For more information visit www.hardelotgolfclub.com or call +33 (0)3 21 83 73 10 Address: 3 avenue du Golf, 62152 Hardelot

The Arras Golf Club used to be home to the French Open and the Ladies European Tour. Obstacles come in the form of lakes and hillsides. Precision and technique are needed when attempting the 18-hole La Vallée. The Arras Golf Club has two courses: an 18-hole and a 9-hole. Green fee during low season: 18-hole La Vallée weekdays: €35 18-hole La Vallée weekends: €45 9-hole La Vallée weekdays: €25 9-hole La Vallée weekends: €30 9-hole Les Aubépines weekdays: €20 9-hole Les Aubépines weekends: €25 For more information visit www.golfarras.fr or call +33 (0)3 21 50 24 24. A golfing license is needed to access the courses. Address: rue Briquet Tailliandier, 62223 Anzin-Saint-Aubin

Golf de Wimereux

Golf with a sea view at the Golf de Wimereux

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Located right on the coast, the view from Wimereux golf course is simply breathtaking especially when the winter light hits the coastline. The golf course also has a spectacular view of England. The clubhouse has a lovely fireplace to warm up by and also houses a bar, restaurant, changing rooms and a shop. The green itself includes two golf courses: an 18-hole and a 9-hole. Green fee during low season: 18-hole weekdays: €40 18-hole weekend: €45 9-hole weekdays: €24 9-hole weekends: €27 For more information visit www.golf-wimereux.com/en or call +33 (0)3 21 32 43 20 Address: avenue François Mitterrand, 62930 Wimereux

Golf du Touquet Located in glamorous sea side resort Le Touquet, this golf course is listed in the 2015 top 100 of the best golf courses in continental Europe. It has three courses to choose from and all of them are themed: the 18-hole La Mer, the 18-hole La Forêt and the 9-hole Le Manoir. Green fee during low season: 18-hole La Mer: €55 18-hole La Forêt: €55 36-hole La Mer and La Forêt - one day: €80 9-hole Le Manoir: €30 2x9-hole Le Manoir: €45 For more information visit www.golfencotedopale.com/references/ golf-du-touquet or call +33 (0)3 21 06 28 00 Address: avenue du Golf, 62520 Le Touquet-Paris-Plage

Score a hole-in-one at the Golf du Touquet

Le Golf Parc Olhain For a more family-orientated golf course that also offers other outdoor activities, head over to Parc Olhain, a leisure park a few miles from Béthune. This golf course was created in 1984 with the idea of democratising golf. Visitors can rent all their equipment on site. The 9-hole course is located on the hillsides of the Artois region. Green fee during low season: Weekdays: €21.50 Weekends and bank holidays: €27 For more information visit www.golfdolhain.fr/golf or call +33 (0)3 21 27 91 79 Address: rue de Rebreuve, 62620 Maisnil les Ruitz

Golf de Béthune

Make the most of the peace and quiet at Arras Golf Club

The Golf de Béthune is owned by the town of Béthune and is managed jointly by the town and the local golf association. The seven-hectare course was designed in 1989 and is affiliated to the French Golf Federation. This golf course has two courses: the “Pitch and Putt” 18-hole course and the “Compact” 9-hole course. Green fee: Weekdays: €10 mornings or afternoons Weekends: €12.50 mornings or afternoons For more information visit www.golfdebethune.fr or call +33 (0)3 21 57 13 13 Address: rue du Docteur Dhenin, 62400 Béthune

Golf Blue Green Dunkerque Grand Littoral At the heart of a 350 hectare green crescent, this golf course is located near the Vallières fort, built by Vauban. The unique nature of this golf course shines through its different obstacles. The actual golf course includes an 18-hole course, built in 1983, and an extension, added in 1999. By using gabion walls, wood and green walls, the golf course reminds you of its proximity to the Vallières fort throughout your game. Green fee during low season: 18-hole weekdays: €32 18-hole weekends: €42 9-hole weekdays: €21 9-hole weekends: €32 For more information visit dunkerque.bluegreen.com/fr or call +33 (0)3 28 61 07 43 Address: route du golf, 59380 Coudekerque

Aa Saint-Omer Golf Club Further from the coast, this golf course is nestled in the woods of the Audomarois region. The golf course follows the natural curves of the land it was built on. There are three courses to choose from: the 18-hole Val course, the 9-hole Val course and the 9-hole Haute Drève course. Green fee during low season: 18-hole Val weekdays: €47 18-hole Val weekends: €52 9-hole Val weekdays: €30 9-hole Val weekends: €33 9-hole Haute Drève weekdays: €22 9-hole Haute Drève weekends: €25 For more information visit www.golfsaintomer.fr or call +33 (0)3 21 38 59 90 Address: chemin du Bois, 62380 Lumbres

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Winter escape

Cultural French Flanders French Flanders goes from the border with Belgium, to Gravelines, down to Hazebrouck and finally Bailleul. The region incorporates town such as Bergues, Cassel and Wormhout. The Flanders region is known for its holy trinity of beer, cheese and waffles. But it’s also known for its Flemish culture. The region has known as mattering of culture throughout the centuries: Spanish, Roman, Italian Renaissance and French baroque. Within this merging of cultures, the people are among the most celebratory in France, with their joie de vivre that comes out during carnivals and holidays. Old-fashioned taverns

Estaminets are typical Northern restaurants. They used to sell tobacco and serve as cafés where everyone would turn up to have a beer together. Now they’re rustic restaurants similar to taverns that serve all the local Northern dishes. A bit like a pub in England.

Original culture

The Giants are a very local fixture. During carnival season, you can’t miss the towering

figures. Each town has its own giant that represents the town’s identity. They put their best clothes on and usually wander around and dance. Sometimes they come in couples and grow old together. The most famous carnival is in Dunkerque in February. It lasts a month and all the surrounding villages participate and parade through town with their own Giants.

between Cassel and Hazebrouck. Most beers made in the French Flanders are bières de garde, or beers for keeping. They are ales that were brewed to last throughout the summer months. The Brasserie du Pays Flamand won the title of world’s best bière de garde at the 2016 World Beer Awards for their Anosteké Saison.

Michelin standard

The town of Bergues has its own cheese, like a lot of French towns. But this one has the uniqueness of being washed with beer every day during the maturing process. It is also the most Northern-made cheese in France! The Monts des Cats also has its own cheese, created by monks in 1890. The Saint-Winoc cheese takes its name from the abbey where it used to be made in. This cheese has a rather strong taste, which is typical with beer-washed cheeses.The Brique des Flandre is soft and orange throughout. It is always eaten in thin slices. The Géant des Flandres takes its name from the famous Giant marionettes used during traditional holidays. It looks and tastes much like Gouda.

The Vert Mont in the town of Boeschèpe is one of the least expensive Michelin-starred restaurants in the country. Chef Florent Ladeyn took over from his father, who opened the restaurant in 1982. The restaurant doesn’t have a menu, you simply have to trust the chef and his team! Address: 1318 rue du Mont Noir, 59299 Boeschèpe. Website: vertmont.fr. Email: reservation@vertmont.fr. You’ll need to book a few weeks in advance.

Rolling hills

In this very flat region, any crest or hill is magnified. The Flanders region has three main hills called the “Trois monts”. They are Mont-Cassel, Mont-Noir and Mont des Cats. The town of Cassel is built on Mont-Cassel. Mont-Noir still has about six World War II bunkers. The Westoutre road still has old customs post. The Monts des Cats has nothing to do with cats: the name probably comes from the 5th century inhabitants called the Chattes and from the noblemen who lived there afterwards called De Chats.

Beer

Estaminet De Vierpot Boeschèpe - Office de Tourisme Cœur de Flandre, Isabelle. D’Hulst.

While several beers are brewed in Flanders probably the best known is the 3 Monts. It was created in 1920 and is brewed at the Brasserie de Saint-Sylvestre in Saint-Sylvestre-Cappel,

Cheese

Waffles

Flemish waffles aren’t like Belgian waffles. These ones are very thin and have either vanilla cream or rum-sugar spread thinly between two layers of waffle. When cooked perfectly, they are golden and ever so slightly crunchy. You can sometimes spot pastry-chefs cutting and spreading the waffles in pastry shop windows. This type of waffle can be found in most supermarkets and homemade at the Ferme des Saules, 453 route du Mont-Noir, 59270 Bailleul. Website: ferme-des-saules.com. T.: +33 (0)3 28 49 13 75

Isabelle and Joël Notteau make 600 waffles per week. They also sell fruit, vegetables and meat all fresh from the farm. Photo Mathilde Dambuyant

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Local figures

Jonathan Morris Selling homes in his adopted country

Jonathan bought AC Immobilier, an estate agents in Hesdin, nine years ago. But he’s been living in France for much longer. “I grew up in Hythe and Folkestone and I was used to just getting on the ferry with my parents and coming over to France because we had a holiday home in Berck-sur-Mer.” His parents decided to move to France when Jonathan was 11. “They wanted a different life. They were fed up of England, so we just packed up and moved!” Now 39, Jonathan has most of his family in France and wouldn’t go back to England. “I have two children and I married a French woman. My two sisters live in Berck-

sur-Mer, but I still have links to England and Wales, where I was born.”

The French way of life Jonathan has lived in the same area all his adult life, which probably helps him sell homes there! “I live in a little village between Bercksur-Mer and Hesdin.” He bought his estate agents nine years ago because he saw an opportunity. “Hesdin is a small village of about 3,000 people but the surrounding area has about 13,000 people. It has a large forest and it’s in the

countryside.” Twenty years ago, many British people bought homes near Hesdin. “The French way of life still attracts British people and it’s a village but it has everything.” Including lovely farmhouses far from the hustle and bustle of city life. “Everything is a lot slower here, French people aren’t in a rush.” Close to the coast, a two-hour commute from England, and less exclusive than a town like Le Touquet, Hesdin sells itself, according to Jonathan. “It’s much closer to home. You can come over for a long weekend, something you can’t do if you live in the South of France, for example.”

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Museum

The Louvre-Lens: an alternative art museum The museum is celebrating its fifth birthday this December. Many activities are lined up to mark the occasion. From December 2nd to December 10th, the museum will dedicate each day to a different theme and pay tribute to everyone who helped make the museum what it is today. Five years ago the city of Lens was chosen to be the regional outpost of France’s internationally renowned musée du Louvre. Created by architects Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, the magnificent glass building echoes its big sister in Paris. The Pavillon de Verre provides a space to explore art in greater depth through annual themed exhibitions. These offer a counterpoint to the collection of the Galerie du Temps. The museum has the uniqueness of not having its own permanent collection: it hosts temporary themed exhibitions and also regularly borrows artwork from the Louvre in Paris.

To celebrate its five-year anniversary (December 4th) the museum is providing nine days filled with free activities from December 2nd to December 10th. Ball, parade, food tasting with Lens’ best chefs, concerts, you name it, the Louvre-Lens is providing it. All events are made to fit the museum’s image of a space open to all and innovative: an alternative Louvre. Each day will have its own theme which will celebrate a different aspect of the museum and what it stands for. At 8pm on December 2nd, a traditional “Bal populaire” will take place at La Scène. Gipsy music, world music and even chart music will make visitors dance to beat and celebrate the museum’s birthday. Experience the history of dance with the help of a choreographer and a dancer in the museum’s park on December 3rd at 2.30pm and 4pm. Guided by the two dancers, travel from ballet to improv dancing to contemporary dance and even post-modern dancing. In addition, more than forty new pieces of art will join the ranks of the museum in the Galerie du Temps. These artworks are exceptional National Treasures acquired by the state for the Louvre museum over the past five years. They are considered National Treasures because they are seen as very important for the country’s heritage and therefore have a special protection status. 32

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

The museum will bring together different civilisations and eras in one place and, for the first time, out of Paris and in the heart of the mining basin. Visitors will have the privilege of coming into close quarters with Jacques Saly’s L’amour essayant une de ses flèches sculpture, the very rarely shown painting La Lecture de la Bible, by Jean-Baptiste Greuze and Johann Christian Neuber’s Teschen Table. Many other activities to celebrate the museum’s anniversary through art and music can be found on louvrelens.fr Address: 99 rue Paul Bert, 62300 Lens. Open every day (except Tuesdays) from 10am to 6pm. Closed on December 25th and January 1st. The museum park is open year round during the low season, from 8am to 7 pm.

ARRAS

The biggest Christmas market north of Paris

The tradition of festive celebrations An enchanting interlude to prepare for the celebrations ahead and to delight your loved ones with plenty of gift ideas. Sample roasted chestnuts or gingerbread before wandering along the wide lanes edged with market stalls, where there are crafts, jewellery, wooden toys and decorations to be discovered, and much more... Magical entertainment every day Go high above the ground with the Ferris Wheel, glide over the natural ice skating rink, race down the sledge run, relive olden times with a carousel and its wooden horses or board the Christmas tree roundabout to share unforgettable moments. How to go to Arras ?

By car from Calais, take A26/E15, exit 7 Arras Centre (60 min) from Lille, take A1/E17, exit 16 Arras Centre (40 min) By train Eurostar to Lille Europe, then TGV Lille-Arras (25 min) By plane from Lille Airport, take A1/E17, exit 16 Arras Centre (35 min) from Beauvais Aiport, take A16, A29/E44, A1/E15, exit 15 Arras Centre (1h45)

The Christmas market in Arras is laid out in the magnificent setting of the Grand’Place, a Flemish Baroque architectural ensemble unrivalled in Europe. A remarkable backdrop with a forest of Christmas trees, where 140 artisans and exhibitors await in an authentic and festive atmosphere in the heart of town.

Enjoy the enchantment of Christmas in Arras

From 24th november to 30th december

From Monday to Thursday: 12 – 7.30pm / Friday: 12 – 9pm Saturday: 10am – 9pm / Sunday: 10am – 7.30pm Sunday 24th December: 10am – 5pm Monday 25th December: closed / Saturday 30th December: closing at 7pm www.noelarras.com

Events Immerse yourself in the world of Parisian haute couture from the 1950s to the 1990s at Calais’ City of lace and fashion. The museum is celebrating French designer Hubert de Givenchy, who has dressed a cosmopolitan clientele such as Jacqueline Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, his muse and friend. The pieces on show demonstrate an acute sense of elegance and exquisite cultural refinement.

Hubert de Givenchy, exhibition running until December 31st at the Cité de la Dentelle et de la mode, 135, quai du Commerce, 62100 Calais T.: +33 (0)3 21 00 42 30 or cite-dentelle.fr. Open every day except Tuesdays from 10am to 5pm

Watch the thrill of extreme motorbike racing

Witness the biggest motorbike beach race in the world on one of the most elegant beaches at Le Touquet. The 43rd edition of the Enduropale event takes place from February 3rd to February 5th. Different categories battle it out on the beach and makes for an incredible show

of mechanical prowess. More than 2,000 riders will race across the beach over the course of the weekend.

For more information call +33 (0)3 21 06 82 12 or visit enduropaledutouquet.fr

See Italian wonders at the Louvre-Lens

In its glass Pavilion, the Louvre-Lens makes a point to show off the quality of local museums of Northern France through themed exhibitions built exclusively with artwork provided by museums of the Hauts-de-France region. The latest exhibition, Heures italiennes, showcases 20 of the best Italian paintings from the 16th, 17th and 18th century.

The exhibition ends May 28th and is free of charge. Louvre-Lens, 99, rue Paul Bert 62300 Lens T.: +33 (0)3 21 18 62 62

Is it a bird? Is it a plane? No, it’s Berck’s International Kite Festival!

The name might be slightly unbecoming (it means ‘yuck’ in French), but the seaside town of Berck-sur-Mer is known for its beautiful-

ly wide beach. Kitesurfers, horse riders, and especially kite enthusiasts all have their place on Berck’s beach. Each year in April, the International Kite Festival gathers hundreds of professional teams from all over the world and thousands of tourists flock to the beach to see the amazing aerial displays.

Coming up to its 32nd year of existence, 2018’s edition will take place from April 14th to April 22nd in Berck-sur-Mer

Discover the world through the eyes of reporters

The International current affairs and social documentary film festival (FIGRA) takes place in Saint-Omer this year. The 25th edition will showcase some of the best of news and current affairs documentaries from around the world. It’s up to the visitor to make up their own opinion of the world after taking in a broad panorama of the world.

From March 20th to March 25th in Saint-Omer. Film projections will take place in the OCINÉ cinema complex. Evening festival parties will take place at the Chapelle des Jésuites

Wonder at the creations of one of fashion’s most iconic designers

International Kite Festival - Berck-sur-Mer

Organza sheath dress previously owned by the Duchess of Windsor

The Louvre-Lens is showing off Italian artwork until May

WANDERINGS BY TENDANCES & CO

Did you knowthat that inin Calais therethere is no added duty, UK duty, Did you know Calais is noUKadded making your favourite wines up to 50% cheaper than making your favourite wines 50% than the UK prices. Why pay this whenup youto don’t havecheaper to? the UK prices. Why pay this when you don’t have to?

• Prices starting from £1.79 • Tastestarting before youfrom travel £1.79 Prices • FREE travel Taste before you travel • Free UK glass hire FREE • Pricetravel Match Promise

• • • • Free UK glass hire • Price Match Promise

Directions to our stores

Opening Hours: Monday to Saturday 9am – 7pm Sunday 9am – 6pm

Two easily located stores for your convenience

Calais Store

Coquelles Store

Zone Industrielle Marcel Doret 1 Rue de Judee 62100 Calais 00 33 321976300

3a Av. Charles de Gaulle 62231 Coquelles 00 33 321829364

Port de Calais

Ferry Terminal

Directions to our stores

Monday to Saturday 9am

For sat nav,for enter your convenience Two (Nearest easily located to Ferry Terminal) stores Coquelles For sat nav, enter “zone Marcel Doret”

Calais Sunday 9am – 6pm

“Moulin le Bas”

Calais Store Coquelles Store Or contact our English speaking store J42

J47/4

A16 J43

J44

FREE case of wine

(Nearest to Ferry Terminal) For sat nav, enter “zone Marcel Doret”

For sat nav, enter WORTH “Moulin le Bas”UP TO

When you spend £150 or more and get a FREE CASE of wine worth up to £41.94*

£41.94

A16

Port de Calais

Ferry Terminal

Calais Present this voucher at the J42 to receive your A16 checkout free case of wine

J43

J41 Eurotunnel *Voucher valid until 30th November 2018. Customers can select from either The Astronomer Chardonnay OR The Astronomer Shiraz. We reserve the right to exchange for a similar Bo ul og ne

A26

Beach Calais

Coquelles

UK case case price six bottles

Or contact our English speaking store teams on 01923 298 297 www.majesticwinecalais.co.uk

A16

J46 ris Pa

Bo ul og ne

Zoneteams Industrielle on 01923 298 297 3a Av. Charles de Gaulle J41 Eurotunnel www.majesticwinecalais.co.uk Terminal Marcel Doret 62231 Coquelles 1 Rue de Judee 00 33 321829364 62100 Calais (Nearest to 00 33 321976300 Eurotunnel)

Opening Ho A26

A26

(Nearest to Eurotunnel)

Beach Calais

J44

A16

product. While stocks last. Price based on the UK’s top price of the same product. Voucher redeemable with £150 minimum spend. Voucher valid for single use: only one voucher per car Terminal

per day. Novalid photocopies accepted.30th. Offer Customers not valid withcan any select other deal including our free travel offerChardonnay or pre-order discount. voucher cannot be We usedreserve in Majestic E&OE 2017. *Voucher until November from either The Astronomer OR The This Astronomer Shiraz. theUK. right to exchange for a similar product. While stocks last. Price based on the UK’s top price of the same product. Voucher redeemable with £150 minimum spend. Voucher valid for single use: only one voucher per car per day. No photocopies accepted. Offer not valid with any other deal including our free travel offer or pre-order discount. This voucher cannot be used in Majestic UK. E&OE 2017. 20171023 - MW Calais A4 Ad Wanderings Magazine.indd 1

26/10/2017 13:09

TRAVEL BY FERRY The most affordable, enjoyable and comfortable way to cross the Channel

#ontheferry

PortBoulogneCalais

@Port_BC