Wanderings
BY TENDANCES & CO
TRAVEL - CULTURE - GASTRONOMY - ACTIVITIES IN NORD-PAS-DE-CALAIS
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Wanderings
BY TENDANCES & CO
Welcome to the latest edition of Wanderings by Tendances & Co, published by the Nord Littoral group
In these pages, we invite you to journey across the 30 miles that separate the two shores of the Channel and experience a true slice of Northern France. From the rugged coastline of Dunkirk to the sandy stretches of Berck, passing through iconic towns like Calais and Boulognesur-Mer, you’ll discover the jewels of the Nord and Pas-de-Calais region, such as the elegance of Le Touquet, the historical charm of Arras, and the quaint beauty of Montreuil.
This edition of Wanderings offers a wide range of destinations to explore, each packed with unique cultural experiences, landscapes, and warm welcomes. Savour the flavours of our gastronomy, from fresh seafood to artisanal cheeses, and discover the people who make our region better.
The festive season is an ideal time to visit the Opal Coast, as towns and villages sparkle with lights and markets fill with artisanal crafts. Enjoy this time of year when Northern France comes alive with the French art of living.
Northern France is famous for its hospitality, so relax, explore, and enjoy every moment with us. We’re delighted to share the richness of our culture and heritage with you!
Geraldine John
CONTENTS
■ PAGES 4-5
Yuima Nakazato’s exhibition, a truly poetic experience at the cité de la dentelle museum
■ PAGES 6-7
Christmas markets
■ PAGES 8-9
Boulogne Cathedral and its dome
■ PAGE 12
Celebrities and Le Touquet through the prism of Studio Harcourt
■ PAGE 13
The Audomarois launches its ‘Wonderful Season’
■ PAGES 14-15
For mussels, there’s no need to wait for the months ending in ‘ber’
■ PAGES 16-17
The BierBuik, chef Florent Ladeyn’s estaminet
■ PAGE 18
Bergues, a rather unique cheese from the north of France
■ PAGES 20-21
In Pas-de-Calais, Goudale voted the best beer in the world
■ PAGE 22
The history of plum pudding, the northern french version of the Christmas pudding
■ PAGE 23
It’s a first in French Flanders : a grape harvest
■ PAGES 24-25
The Louvre-Lens museum explores exile throughout history
■ PAGES 26-27
Take the high ground on Dewulf dune, between Leffrinckoucke and Zuydcoote
Editor: Eric Lepers - Commercial Director: Jérôme Dimarcq - Words: Jean-François Duquene & Géraldine John Design and Production: Studio Groupe Nord Littoral - Advertising: Groupe Nord Littoral Reproduction of this magazine in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited. A Groupe Nord Littoral publication, 91 boulevard Jacquard, 62100 Calais. T.: +33 (0)3 21 19 12 12 Printed by SIB - Boulogne-sur-Mer
Yuima Nakazato’s exhibition, A TRULY POETIC EXPERIENCE AT THE CITÉ DE LA DENTELLE MUSEUM
The designer attributed certain colours and characteristics to the garments
The Cité de la dentelle lace and fashion museum, in Calais, is exhibiting the creations of Yuima Nakazato, which blend poetry and futurism in a more responsible world of textiles.
It’s breathtaking! The new solo exhibition by Japanese avant-garde fashion designer Yuima Nakazato at the Cité de la dentelle et de la mode, the lace and fashion museum in Calais, opened on 15 June. ‘It’s more than just couture! The designer is proposing completely new things. His relationship with clothes is entirely emotional,’ says
Anne-Claire Laronde, director of the museum.
At a very young age, the designer wanted to invent a new type of clothing: 100% modular.
Here, Yuima Nakazato thinks of clothing in a different and environmentally conscious way, meaning that he has succeeded in setting up a system for reusing clothes.
© Cité Dentelle
‘Some of the garments are full of jigsaw pieces that can be assembled or removed at will,’ adds the director.
Some of Yuima Nakazato’s designs carry an ecological message.
The exhibition takes visitors on a journey through a poetic world. For example, in the area devoted to whales, the colours and sounds of whales are anchored in the dresses, conveying an ecological message. ‘This large marine mammal is the symbol of the planet that we need to protect,’ explains Anne-Claire Laronde.
Yuima Nakazato’s motivations
Influenced by his trip to Kenya, where he witnessed textile waste invading the beaches, the designer became aware of the importance of more environmentally responsible fashion. As a result, he incorporates recycled materials and waste that is not recycled by the fashion industry into his designs.
Yuima Nakazato designs pieces that are progressive, durable and capable of forging a unique emotional bond with the people who wear them.
Working alongside specialists, researchers and industry professionals, he pushes back the boundaries of technology to develop innovative textiles and manufacturing processes: 3-D printing, creating textile fibres from fermented bacteria, etc.
Yuima Nakazato’s mystery boxes to understand his world
During the exhibition, you’ll also find a number of ‘mystery’ boxes. These boxes are keys to gaining entry into the world of Yuima Nakazato. In one of the boxes, you can watch a film with the designer in his studio. You can also follow him to Kenya, where the designer went to the mountains of textile waste. In another mystery box, you can try out other tools to see the clothes in new ways.
Another universe of Japanese colours and shapes
The designer attributed certain colours and characteristics to the garments and characters, using ‘strong colours, wigs and faces that are a bit hybrid, with both men and women wearing the same clothes. The shapes are true to Japanese style, like kimonos, very wide and light’, explains Anne-Claire Laronde. There’s so much more to discover in this museum... Let yourself be carried away by this exhibition, which is both touching and delicate.
Opening times: 10 am to 6 pm (ticket office closes at 5 pm) every day except on Tuesdays. Admission to the permanent collection + temporary exhibition is €7; €4 for the temporary exhibition alone.
The shapes are true to Japanese style, like kimonos, very wide and light
Christmas markets
ARRAS
A magical Christmas town
A month of festivities begins in Arras. The Ville de Noël, or Christmas Town, is celebrating a milestone: 35 years! From 29 November to 29 December, 140 chalets will be set up on the Grand’Place, Place des Héros, as well as Place du Théâtre. Place d’Ipswich will be transformed into Father Christmas’s house. Visitors taking the train will be dropped off at an enchanted station! Skating rinks, merry-go-rounds, Ferris wheels, miniature trains, parades (on Sundays) and the arrival of St Nicholas from the belfry will inspire this month of festivities.
GRAVELINES
A Christmas market celebrating its 30th anniversary
Last year, the Gravelines Christmas market saw over 200,000 visitors, which just goes to show that the most beautiful market on the Côte d’Opale is a real crowd-puller! And with good reason, as there are almost 100 chalets waiting for visitors for its 30th edition. As for the entertainment, we’re pulling out all the stops with merrygo-rounds for young and old, Father Christmas descending from the top of the belfry, a fireworks display, shows and street performances... From 7 to 29 December, three weeks of magic await you.
BÉTHUNE 4 weeks of Christmas magic
The ‘City of Christmas’ opens its doors from 29 November to 29 December. Here too, a month of festivities awaits the public, who will be able to shop at a host of stalls. There will also be some unmissable events, such as ‘Santa’s house’, which opens at 2pm on Saturday 7 December, and the visit of St Nicholas on 4 December. Father Christmas will be descending from the top of the Béthune belfry on Tuesday 24 December. And there’s always plenty of fun to be had on the roller rink!
HARDELOT
Christmas Market
Place de la Concorde on 7 and 8 December. With around thirty exhibitors: decorations, mulled wine, pictures with Father Christmas. Entertainment and concerts all day long. Saint-Nicolas show on Sunday 8 December. Retailers’ weekend from Friday 20 to Tuesday 25 December: treasure hunt, entertainment and surprises. Activities for children from Monday 23 December to Saturday 4 January.
SAINT-MARTIN-BOULOGNE Christmas market in Salle Condette and Square Nacry
From 6 to 8 December
Friday 6 December from 4pm to 9pm, Saturday 7 December from 11am to 8pm, Sunday 8 December from 11am to 7pm. A traditional Christmas market with exhibiting designers and artisans offering unique, handmade items. There will also be plenty of entertainment, including the return of the polar bear, which was such a hit with the public last year, and live music.
BRUAY-LA-BUISSIÈRE
Lots of Christmas entertainment
Bruay-la-Buissière’s Christmas market is back from 7 to 18 December in front of the town hall. Local artisans, designers and delicacies await you, along with a whole host of events. Don’t miss the first weekend: Father Christmas will be there, children will be able to enjoy a Christmas storytelling session, and there will be a procession of fantastic creatures, giant illuminated nutcrackers, trolls, a brass band and mascots! For ten days, you can also enjoy face painting for children, an ice rink and a Christmas merry-go-round. And don’t miss the Christmas parade on Saturday 14 December at 6.30pm!
WIMEREUX Saint-Nicolas parade
AIRE-SUR-LA-LYS
An ‘Aire’ of Christmas in the air
The Aire-sur-la-Lys Christmas market will be taking over the Grand’Place from Friday 13 to Sunday 22 December. Chalets, merry-go-rounds and entertainment will share the space for the enjoyment of young and old alike. It’s the perfect place to do some shopping and find the perfect gift for your loved ones.
BOULOGNE-SUR-MER
Saint-Nicolas parade in the town centre
7 December from 5pm
Come and meet Saint-Nicolas on rue Nationale and watch the fabulous parade set off down rue de la Lampe, then rue Thiers and rue Faidherbe before reaching Pont Marguet. New this year: a float from Le Lavandou will be taking part in the parade! Saint-Nicolas will board a boat on the Quai Gambetta before the pyrotechnics show, which will light up the sky above the port at around 7pm.
Christmas Market
From 13 to 15 December, Enclos de l’Evéché car park, in the walled town. Father Christmas will appear on the balcony of the Town Hall on Saturday 14 December at 6pm. Come along at 3, 4 and 5pm for a wonderful puppet show in the Salons d’Honneurs of the Town Hall on Saturday and Sunday.
Living nativity
The re-enactment of the living nativity will take place in the Notre-Dame Basilica for three performances on Sunday 15 December at 3.30pm and 4.30pm.
On 7 December, departure from the Bon Air part of town. Christmas market, Place Albert I and in the village hall. From 13 to 15 December
The Christmas village will transport you into a magical world with its wooden chalets, sparkling lights and entertainment for young and old. There’s a skating rink, a Christmas market, a chance to meet Father Christmas, and a parade of characters, including Mrs Claus, giant nutcrackers on stilts, and musicians. Something for everyone to enjoy!
HAZEBROUCK
Three weeks of magic
This year’s Hazebrouck Christmas Market will run from Friday 6 December to Tuesday 31 December. 13 wooden chalets will be set up on the Grand’Place, weekdays from 3pm to 7.30pm, Saturdays from 11am to 7.30pm and Sundays from 10am to 12.30pm and 2.30pm to 7.30pm. Skating rink, carousel, shows and entertainment for all ages.
© L’Écho de la Lys
© Ville de Boulogne-sur-Mer
TRAVEL
Boulogne Cathedral AND ITS DOME
Due to its size and history, this emblematic monument of Boulogne-sur-Mer has benefited from a major plan to restore its dome and the frescoes at its base.
A number of construction projects have been carried out by various specialist companies to restore the dome to an appearance worthy of the name and, above all, to give it added longevity over the coming decades.
Charles Soulacroix’s frescoes
One of the stages in this major renovation involved restoring the six frescoes in the dome, around the altar of the basilica. These are paintings dedicated to the Virgin Mary. These six frescoes represent a reading cycle that runs counter-clockwise.
To the naked eye, if some of the restorations appear incomplete, it’s because this is archaeological restoration. In fact, the tratteggio technique was used to restore these frescoes, a technique that consists in reconstructing a painted face in an illusionist fashion.
The cathedral crypt
Serving as a base for the upper church, the crypt of Boulogne’s Notre-Dame cathedral covers an area of
1,400 square metres and is exactly the same size as the upper church. It is a veritable maze of corridors and rooms. Each step takes you back to Roman antiquity, when Boulogne was an important military base founded by the Roman conquerors, who coveted neighbouring England.
A succession of stone fragments then tells the story of the destroyed church, from its foundation to its destruction. These ruins that have escaped from oblivion bear witness to the importance of this first sanctuary, visited by most of the kings of France and England.
The rooms devoted to the treasures of Notre-Dame include the reliquary of the Holy Blood, a masterpiece of goldsmithery gifted by Philip the Fair on the occasion of his daughter’s marriage to the King of England in the church of Boulogne.
Several architectural styles rub shoulders: the eastern crypt is located on the site of the former 14th-century chapel of the Virgin Mary, where the lower part of the walls and columns can still be seen on either side at mid-height. In the Romanesque crypt, the room is divided into three vessels and two rows of columns that originally held groin vaults, which disappeared when it was dismantled probably as early as the 14th century. The circular crypt in the dome room was established during the 1830s to serve as the foundation for the basilica’s rotunda.
The crypt is open during low season from 1st October to 30 April, 9.30am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 5.30pm. Annual closures: 25 December, 1 January, 1 May and the two weeks following the start of the Christmas holidays.
Admission: €6 and €4. For information and guided tour bookings, call +33(0)3 21 87 81 79 or email crypte@villeboulogne-sur-mer.fr
The count’s castle and museum
The best way to discover the history of Boulogne castle is to take the guided tour entitled “Les clés du château” (Keys to the castle).
The château comtal, or count’s castle, is the first jewel in the museum’s collection. It is also a gateway to the history of the town. The fortifications of the Roman city, on which the monument rests, can still be seen today in the underground passages.
On this guided tour, you’ll gain access to the lower rooms and walkways and discover the medieval castle and its evolution.
The tour is included in the admission ticket. And also ‘Les clefs du château junior’, a guided tour for children aged 7 and over, in cryptopia and the ramparts, to discover all the traces of each era to reconstruct the history of the castle. Booking recommended +33(0)3 21 10 02 20
The belfry
Boulogne’s first fortified castle was built at the end of the 12th century by Count Renaud de Dammartin. Of this castle, only the first two levels of the dungeon, which later became a belfry, remain. The ground floor includes a room with no openings used as a storeroom.
The first floor has an entrance accessible via a narrow bridge, which was defended as was customary in Romanesque buildings.
The room has windows that are now blocked up. Both floors have barrel vaults.
The belfry was partially destroyed in 1268 on the orders of Louis IX in the face of the people of Boulogne’s refusal to pay tax for the 8th crusade. The belfry was repaired and dating from this period is the third level, which houses the north-east eagle tower, which is fitted with hiding places.
In 1712, the slate spire at the top of the belfry burnt down and was replaced by an octagonal storey that reached its current height of 35 metres. In 1734, the former town hall, which houses the present-day Town Hall, was added to the south-east side. A stained-glass window depicting Godfrey of Bouillon is an integral part of Boulogne’s belfry.
Thalassa Sea & Spa Le Touquet : YOUR WELLNESS RESORT ON THE OPAL COAST
On the Opal Coast, Thalassa Sea & Spa Le Touquet is a haven of peace offering a total experience, with a collection of spa treatments and activities, and a full range of accommodation and restaurants.
Relax and unwind in soothing surroundings
The Opal Coast, with its wild landscapes and incomparable light, is a popular destination for British customers in search of nature and tranquillity. Beyond its beauty, this region is the perfect place to recharge your batteries and take care of yourself. Among the many places along the coast, Thalassa Sea & Spa Le Touquet stands out as an exceptional address, ideal for a day’s getaway or a longer stay.
Facing the waves and the spectacle of the Opal Coast tides, the spa treatment areas cover a total surface area of 2000m2. They overlook the beach, along a large glass corridor bathed in light and serenity.
The range of treatments on offer is vast: sea baths, marine rains, hydrorelax massages, jet showers, drainages, saunas, various body wraps, and more. Services are truly
à la carte. Daily thalasso bundles are also available. There are also marine rain massage cabins, a cryotherapy cabin, a marine trail, a Beauty Studio and individual coaching rooms. For the more sporty, there’s a Studio where you can keep fit in front of the sea.
An emblematic complex on the beach
The Novotel Thalassa Le Touquet**** comprises 145 rooms, most of which have uninterrupted sea views. Wake up to the waves. Its ‘Maison Mer’ restaurant offers bistronomic cuisine where the dishes are simple and tasty, with real produce from the sea and the land.
The Ibis Thalassa le Touquet*** is home to 91 rooms where you can wake up with your feet in the sand. The only thing in sight is waves. The “Le Potj’” restaurant serves traditional, tasty cuisine rooted in Northern France. In fine weather, you can enjoy a sea view from the Pojt’ terrace.
Thalasso center, Seawater Spa, Novotel & Ibis, 2 restaurants, 3 bars
Celebrities and Le Touquet THROUGH THE PRISM OF STUDIO HARCOURT
The exhibition will be open to the public until 5 January. Guided tours are also planned.
These black-and-white portraits with their singular light are world famous
What do Rafael Nadal, Édith Piaf, Johnny Hallyday, Alain Ducasse and Michel Platini have in common? It may not seem obvious, but there are two: they have all been photographed by Studio Harcourt, and they have all set foot in Le Touquet, or in some cases have a foothold there.
Thirty-two panels to create a link
And they’re not the only ones. There will be thirty-two celebrities from different eras and horizons whom the Le Touquet museum team has endeavoured to reflect on and place along a deliberately short route between the Sports roundabout and the Ypres garden, while making the link with their time in Le Touquet.
While the ‘Promenade dans les collections’ exhibition in 2020 and the ‘Célébrités’ exhibition ten years earlier had already featured portraits by Studio Harcourt, ‘Harcourt et Le Touquet-Paris-Plage, une histoire d’élégance’ is
There will be thirty-two celebrities from different eras and horizons chosen by the museum
the first time that the museum has presented a display entirely dedicated to Studio Harcourt.
These black-and-white portraits with their singular light are sure to echo the other exhibition, this time within the walls of the museum, devoted to the artist Hom Nguyen, whose portraits speak to the heart. That exhibition runs until 18 May.
Guided tours
The work of Studio Harcourt will be freely discovered by visitors, with text explanations on panels and through a visitor’s guide (there is a game version for children) available from the Tourist Office explaining the visits of Brigitte Bardot, Roger Moore, Raphaël Varane and more. But it can also be told through tours organised by the museum team. These take place every Wednesday at 2.15pm outside school holidays, and every Monday at 2.15pm during school holidays (weather permitting).
EVENTS
The Audomarois LAUNCHES ITS ‘WONDERFUL SEASON’
The Pays de Saint-Omer is once again being transformed into a fabulous family destination for a magical winter. The Saison Merveilleuse, or wonderful season, now an unmissable winter event, is back with a programme packed with surprising experiences and magical moments.
The Pays de Saint-Omer Tourist Office’s 8th Wonderful Season is officially underway, running until 22 February 2025!
Those eager for these annual events can look forward to the gourmet Bicycl’Aire ride on Saturday 9 November, and the magical hustle and bustle of the Christmas market from 13 to 22 December, both in Aire-sur-la-Lys. ‘We’ll be sharing Christmas tales and other events will bring different surprises. Last year, we created a game app that went down really well with children, and we’re thinking of doing it again,’ says Julien Duquenne, the director.
A few surprises for visitors
These tours wouldn’t be nearly as wonderful if there weren’t a few surprises in store for visitors. Starting with the wonderful buses on 23 November and 11 January 2025. ‘We know the time and the place we’re leaving from, but we don’t know where we’re going or what we’re going to see,’ informs the director, without giving too much away.
Programme
• Saturday 9 November, Bicycl’Aire gourmet walk - 3pm - €20.
• Tuesday 12 November, ‘Fuena’ show - 8pm - free.
• Saturday 16 November, La Station tournée vers l’avenir. 6.30pm. free.
• Sunday 17 November, Wittes Foal Fair - 9 am to 6 pm - free.
• Saturday 23 November, Guémilde wonderful Bus - 2.30pm. €5 per person.
• Thursday 28 November, Investigation : small murder at Saint-Omer - 6pm - €10/€6.
• Sunday 1st December, ‘La cuisine musicale’ show - 4pm. €4.50 per person.
• Friday 6 December, the marina lights up - 7pm - free.
• Friday 13 December, discover the Station - 6.30pm - free.
• From Friday 13 to Sunday 22 December, Christmas market in Aire-sur-la-Lys - free.
• Saturday 14 December, Christmas bus in Fauquembergues. 6.30pm - €5 per person.
• Saturday 14 December, Omer gourmet walk - 5pm. €10 per person.
• Sunday 5 January, New Year’s concert - 3.30pm. €14/€10 per person.
• Saturday 11 January, Wonderful Bus - 2.30pm - €5 per person.
• Saturday 18 January, birdhouse-making workshop - 2pm. €10 per person.
• Saturday 25 January, discovering the Station - 6.30pm - free.
• Saturday 1st February, a wonderful moment - 5pm - free.
• Saturday 8 February, Journey through the ages - 2pm. €25 per person.
• Saturday 15 February, Valentine’s Day baking workshop - 2pm. €35 per person.
• Friday 21 February, the heritage house - 6.30pm - free.
• Saturday 22 February, medieval fantasy tour - 2pm and 5pm - €10.
Full programme and booking on tourisme-saintomer.com
© Tourisme en Pays de Saint-Omer
For mussels, THERE’S NO NEED TO WAIT FOR THE MONTHS ENDING IN ‘BER’
It’s a common misconception that you can only eat the best mussels during months ending in ‘ber’! Stéphane Dewitte, mussel farmer and producer of the ‘Moule de bouchot du Mont Saint-Frieux’ explains.
“You’re not going to have mussels when we’re not in a ‘ber’ month!” This phrase is regularly heard in restaurants, especially during the summer, when you can find moules-frites on every table. The famous ‘ber’ months for eating mussels are ‘completely false’, says mussel farmer Stéphane Dewitte. In fact, the expression ‘les mois en bre’ (the months in ber) comes from the time when fish was transported by horse-drawn cart from Boulogne to Paris. The famous ‘fish route’. ‘To be
absolutely certain of eating fresh fish, it was better to buy it between September and December, when the weather was cooler and the fish could be preserved better,’ says Stéphane Dewitte with amusement.
The bouchot mussel at Mont Saint-Frieux
In 2013, Stéphane Dewitte set up his mussel farm on the Dannes beach at Mont Saint-Frieux, between Boulogne and Le Touquet. He produces mussels, but not just any mussels: bouchot mussels. What makes them special? They are bred on long stakes planted in the sand. This former sailing instructor quickly developed a passion for these mollusks, with their blackish exterior and orange-yellow flesh. ‘Alongside the sailing club, I worked for the Binet family near Fort-Mahon, and it was there that I learned everything I know about mussels,’ smiles
The famous stakes, the ‘bouchots’, are nearly 20 feet high but with only 6 feet sticking out from the seabed
Stéphane, fresh from the beach. In 2017, he’d already extended his farm: ‘I went from 7,500 stakes to 13,200 stakes,’ explains the mussel farmer. And in May of this year, a new extension enabled him to pass 15,000.
Mussel farming takes all year
Before obtaining shimmering dark shells, Stéphane must start with a coconut fibre rope. ‘On it, there are small larvae. We call them spats, and we place them on spat tables so that they grow a little more, he explains. The rope is then wound around the famous stakes, the ‘bouchots’, which are nearly 20 feet high but with only 6 feet sticking out from the seabed. ‘On one 3 feet of rope, there can be between 8,000 and 12,000 mussels,’ explains Stéphane, whose premises are located in Neufchâtel-Hardelot. Delivered in May, these spats are then placed on the stakes between mid-June and July, where they grow for a year.
In your cooking pots, you’ll sometimes find small ones, sometimes big ones, sometimes whiter, sometimes completely orange. ‘This is because of the tides and what they filter. The mussels that are in the water the longest are bound to be bigger. The small tides are neap tides and the big ones are spring tides,’ says Stéphane.
For this producer, the year is divided up as follows: in April, the stakes are washed and cleaned, ‘in May, we start selling and therefore harvesting, and we receive the spat, which we put on stakes between June and July’. In September, predator nets to prevent gull attacks are placed on the stakes. In the following months, until April of the following year, Stéphane and his team maintain the park and let the mussels grow. Finally, using a tractor and a cone-shaped shovel, the stakes are peeled and the mussels recovered. They are then cleaned in Stéphane’s warehouse and chilled before being delivered.
A near-record shell filling rate
For this month of July, Stéphane is very satisfied with the harvest, which has a very high level of meat in the shells. ‘We’re already at a shell-filling rate of 33%, and at best we’re close to 37%, but that’s more likely to happen in September. Even the Mont-Saint-Michel mussels, which have PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, are not as full’, jests the mussel farmer. On your plate, for one litre of mussels (a portion in a restaurant, for example), you can eat around 330 grams (11 ounces) of flesh.
Before returning to his stakes, Stéphane has one last piece of advice: ‘The best month to eat mussels is September’. Now, you know.
In April, the stakes are washed and cleaned, in May, they start harvesting. Between June and July, the spat are put on the stakes
LOCAL FIGURES
The BierBuik, CHEF FLORENT LADEYN’S ESTAMINET
The estaminet (Flemish pub) run by the former finalist of TV’s “Top Chef” is ready. After several months’ renovation, Florent Ladeyn’s BierBuik opened its doors on Friday 19 July on the French side of the Mont Noir. We took a look inside and met the head chef.
It was well worth the wait. Since the end of February and the announcement of a third BierBuik restaurant by Florent Ladeyn, this time on the Mont Noir, foodies everywhere have been salivating in anticipation of what’s in store.
A
restaurant
for the locals
After a few months’ hard work, the former “Top Chef” finalist’s restaurant unveiled its interior to the public on Friday 19 July, much to the joy of its owner. ‘I’m delighted to be in Flanders,’ he says, ‘but I’m putting a bit of pressure on myself because the idea is really to make a bar-restaurant for our childhood friends, because we’re from here.’
With the help of Jérôme Van Inghelandt, who is the bar’s manager, Florent Ladeyn is proud of this new venture, his third BierBuik after Lille and Béthune and his second restaurant in Flanders with his Michelin-starred Auberge du Vert Mont in Boeschèpe. ‘We don’t have any investors, we’re independent. We do everything with our own little hands, which is why it’s taken so long (smiles). This wall here, I stripped it with my son,’ says the chef.
An American version of flamiche pizza
The concept may evolve over the coming months, but the cuisine already has a specific style: ‘I want to offer a kind of flamiche pizza - I don’t know what we’re going to call it yet - that you fold in half and put vegetables, chips and so on inside.
Can you imagine a chip shop ‘Américain’?
(an Américain is a sandwich served at chip shops: you take a baguette and shove meat, chips and sauce in it. Perfect after a night out.) Well, in the same spirit, but with the warm, soft side of pizza dough instead of bread.’
Of course, his famous Maroilles cheese chips will be on the menu. ‘I’ll be in a bit of trouble if I don’t offer these chips any more,’ he laughs.
Florent Ladeyn’s BierBuik restaurant opened on Friday 19 July on the French side of the Mont Noir
Local ingredients, mussels cooked over a wood fire, beers from Flanders and even beers brewed by BierBuik will also be part of the menu. ‘I want a warm, friendly place where you can come with your family or friends for a drink and a bite to eat for very little money. We’re thinking of offering sugar tarts to local kids after school on Thursdays. I’ve got lots of ideas,’ adds the chef, who also mentions themed evenings like Oktoberfest.
Giving the Mont Noir back its party spirit
Behind this desire for camaraderie and a place where you feel ‘at home’, there’s also a desire to restore the Mont Noir to its former lustre when it comes to partying. ‘I used to come here to party on my moped when I was young. Now, at 6pm, there’s nothing left. I’d like to recapture the spirit of the Mont Noir.’ With a maximum of a hundred seats inside and a huge
terrace accessible directly from the pay and display car park behind (half price if you eat at the BierBuik), the chef has clearly given himself the means to achieve this dream.
Initially, the restaurant will be open from Thursday lunchtime to Sunday evening. ‘But Jérôme was already telling me that Mondays could be a good day,’ laughs Florent Ladeyn, who might extend opening hours in the future if demand is felt. Darts, table tennis, a sofa corner, an open kitchen with a pizza oven and an ambient bar complete the panorama of the premises.
Initially, a beeper system will be used to collect orders, before perhaps introducing table service in the coming months: ‘I can already see myself in winter with the wood fire, the drops beading on the glass and all this life inside, it’s going to be great.’ We can hardly wait.
BERGUES, A RATHER UNIQUE CHEESE FROM THE NORTH OF FRANCE
BERGUES - the cheese, not the town - is a local culinary institution, and has been passed down from generation to generation. Producer Jean-Noël Top took us behind the scenes.
On a traditional cheese platter, it’s not unusual to find Bergues or Saint Winoc. These two cheeses from the Hauts de Flandre region are part of a wide range of specialities from Flanders and Dunkirk.
The Top family is one of only nine producers of this cheese, a family business that now spans four generations, most recently with Jean-Noël Top, President of the Bergues Tradition Cheese Association for more than twenty years.
‘It’s a farmhouse bought by my grandfather, but it was mainly my parents who developed the commercial side (even though my grandmother was already making it). I developed the supermarket and cheese shop side of things when I joined in 2002,’ says Jean-Noël Top. The result is a soft cheese with a beer-washed rind made on the production site in Pitgam.
Different production methods depending on the beer
The production process is a well-kept secret, although we were told a few things behind the scenes, such as the beers used to make the cheese. Le Moulin beer for the Bergues and Diabinte for the Saint Winoc.
In 2023, Jean-Noël Top was making these raw-milk cheeses from 70 cows living on his 70-hectare farm. He regularly organises visits to share his business with as many people as possible.
Jean-Noël Top is the latest producer in a family business that spans four generations
LOCAL DRINKS
In Pas-de-Calais, GOUDALE VOTED THE BEST BEER IN THE WORLD
The Goudale brewery in the Audomarois region of Pas-de-Calais triumphed at the World Beer Awards 2024, winning 27 medals, including gold in the Best Wheat Beer in the World category. This recognition rewards the work of the whole team. With rising sales and new investments, including the construction of a 9,000 m² building, the brewery continues to innovate, particularly with its range of alcohol-free beers. Goudale stands out as a source of local pride and a major player on the brewing scene.
André Pecqueur, the brewery’s managing director, is very proud of winning 27 medals at the 2024 World Beer Awards, especially for World’s best Wheat Beer
Early August saw the long-awaited announcement of the World Beer Awards winners, the most prestigious award in the industry. And what we can say is the Audomarois is not to be outdone when it comes to awards: the local brewery, Goudale, won 27 medals.
André Pecqueur, the brewery’s managing director, is naturally proud of this achievement. ‘It’s a great thing for the brewery,’ he says. ‘You know that we’re the most highly qualified brewery in France, and perhaps now in Europe, with these new medals. We’re lucky to have a 5-star master brewer (Baptiste Mopin) and these awards are the fruit of the work of all our teams.’
But there’s no question of stopping here for André Pecqueur, who wants to do better every year. ‘You know, we’re happy with what we get, but we can always do better. The aim is to do even better next year. You get on your bike, you win a race, and then the objective is to get back on your bike and win again. That’s the strength of our brewery. It’s not a boss who wins the game, it’s a whole team.’
The best wheat beer in the world Goudale employs nearly 200 people. And they’re all proud of the awards they’ve won, especially that of the best wheat beer in the world.
It was only recently released and was considered a success before the medal, which should undoubtedly boost sales even further. We asked the boss what the secret is behind its success: ‘It’s the little things you put in, it’s a secret... You know, it’s like the chef who has his own recipe: a little bit of shallots, a little bit of garlic...
All these ingredients make for success’. Today, the company is doing very well. It continues to invest and buy new machines to stay at the top of its game, and its sales figures are good. ‘Since 1 January, sales at Goudale have risen by 15%, while the French brewery sector has fallen by 4.5%,’ says André Pecqueur. ‘We are also constructing a new 9,000 m² building in Arques (near Saint-Omer), which will be finished by the end of December. At Goudale, we’re always trying to keep up with the times, and we’re always buying new machines to improve our performance. And you know, the advantage we have is that, as we’re an independent company, all the money we earn stays in the business, and that’s what enables us to invest and stay at the top of our game.’
Developing alcohol-free beer
The Goudale brewery has 15 different draught beers, and for some years now it has been developing its alcoholfree range. This is ‘consumer demand’, according to the boss, who can see that the market is booming, and that it represents thousands of potential consumers.
And once again, Goudale has made it happen. The recently launched Goudale 00% with lemon also won a prize at the World Beer Awards in London. ‘Nonalcoholic beers are becoming more and more pleasant to drink, with great flavours. New beers are coming out all the time, because consumers like to change often. You have to adapt,’ points out André Pecqueur.
And for the brewery, this adaptation seems to have been more than successful.
The history of plum pudding, THE NORTHERN FRENCH VERSION OF THE CHRISTMAS PUDDING GASTRONOMY
Plum pudding first appeared in England in the 15th century, created to preserve meat stored in cake dishes. An often-repeated story goes that King George I requested plum pudding as a part of the first Christmas feast of his reign, in 1714.
Calais came under English control in 1347 after being captured by Edward III during the Hundred Years’ War. It remained under English control for over 200 years, until it was recaptured by France in 1558.
But the town - along with Boulogne, just down the coast, which was under English rule for about six years by Henry VIII in 1544 during his last war with Franceretained some English customs, including Christmas pudding. Cheap and nourishing, it was perfect for long sea voyages.
In the 19th century, the sweet version became popular and British tourists further established the Christmas pudding custom in Boulogne and Calais, where it is known as plum pudding but with a French accent. Strangely enough, it has rarely made it out of Boulogne
and Calais to the rest of France.
Here, plum pudding is a ball made from flour, dried fruit, candied fruit, animal fat (sometimes replaced by margarine), sugar, spices, water and rum. Often prepared two weeks before Christmas, it is wrapped in a cloth, steamed, reheated, flambéed in rum and served at Christmas, accompanied by traditional carols such as ‘Mon beau sapin’ or ‘O’Guénels’ for the inhabitants of Boulogne.
Today, plum pudding is still very popular on the Opal Coast, and every family has its own recipe. Preparation kits and ready-made versions are available from bakeries, selling for between €45 and €50 a kilo. Just like the English original version, these puddings keep for several months, some until Easter.
Did you know?
According to tradition, the mixture is kneaded from east to west, as a tribute to the journey of the Three Wise Men from the Orient.
LOCAL DRINKS
It’s a first in French Flanders : A GRAPE HARVEST
Wine produced in the region is about to go on sale, a first in French Flanders.
On Saturday 5 October, Charles-Antoine Simoen, owner of “Côté Ferme” in the village of Saint-Jans-Cappel, harvested his first grapes.
French Flanders is planting its roots in the future of wine. Two years ago, Charles-Antoine Simoen planted 10,000 vines on Mont Noir, covering almost 2.2 hectares at the Madeleine et Marcel estate located in rue du Parc. Saturday 5 October was harvest day.
At the end of the harvest, nearly 2,000 bottles will go on sale. ‘We picked everything here, then the vinification is done in Belgium, at the Entre-Deux-Monts estate,’ explains Charles-Antoine. He started out a dozen years ago with dairy herds before gradually diversifying: ‘I’m a wine lover, but I like beer too (laughs), so it was a challenge I wanted to take up here, on my family’s land.’
This is not Charles-Antoine’s first attempt, having planted the first vines two years ago: ‘I had already done a first harvest last year, but that was just a test, I only produced about ten bottles.’ On his hectares, he has planted a Chardonnay grape variety, a dry white wine. ‘The alcohol content should be fairly low, around 9 degrees.’
The name of this wine is “Cuvée Félix”. All day Saturday, dozens of volunteers turned out to lend a hand with this first harvest. Among them, Lucas, a secondary school student at the Hazebrouck Agricultural Institute, was delighted with this new kind of crop in Flanders: ‘It’s exceptional, for a start you have to be brave enough to take the risk! I’m really pleased that we have wine here, it’s completely in line with local consumption.’ Something Charles-Antoine is deeply attached to: ‘I’m a fervent advocate of direct sales.’
The wine will be sold at the boutique in Saint-JansCappel and via the ‘Court circuit’ app.
Diversifying the grape varieties
The pressing began on Monday 7 October, ‘then there’s the whole fermentation process, which takes several weeks. We’ll have to wait until March or April to see the first bottles,’ smiles the 34-year-old winemaker.
In the long term, Charles-Antoine would like to plant other grape varieties. But he doesn’t want to move too quickly, he wants to take things one step at a time, ‘doing things right’. He is also treasurer of a young
organisation, ‘Vignerons des Hauts-de-France’, which aims to ‘forge ahead and create an industry’. The aim of the organisation is to bring together winemakers ‘who make wine at home’, ‘who have an entity and who go to the end of the chain’.
The association currently has around fifteen winegrowers from all over the region who own between 1 and 2 hectares of vines.
Although this year the Flemish winegrower harvested 10,000 vines, he hopes to increase that to 12,000 next year, and this time he will have his own wine press. ‘For me, wine production is a bonus, it’s anecdotal,’ CharlesAntoine points out. ‘All in all, you need to factor in an investment of around €50,000 per hectare,’ he adds.
And you also have to take into account the weather conditions, which this year have not been the best: ‘It’s been the same everywhere, but we’ve had a difficult year, with lots of rain and disease in the vines.’ In a normal year, Charles-Antoine could produce up to 10,000 bottles. ‘And making wine in the north of France is no more complicated than anywhere else,’ he says encouragingly, even revealing his secret recipe: ‘Love, the hills of Flanders, good soil and off you go.’
Dozens of volunteers turned out to lend a hand with this first harvest. Among them, Lucas, a secondary school student at the Hazebrouck Agricultural Institute, was delighted with this new kind of crop in Flanders.
The Louvre-Lens museum EXPLORES EXILE THROUGHOUT HISTORY
In “Lens Exils, Artists’ Perspectives”, the public can discover, through over 200 works, all the forms of exile the world has known, and the feelings associated: from the pain of leaving to the artistic creation stimulated by this experience.
More than 200 works that express one sentiment, exile, have been carefully arranged in the new temporary exhibition at the Louvre-Lens museum.
“Exiles, Artists’ Perspectives” evokes a feeling that can be both heartbreaking - being far from your loved ones, your homeland, your lifestyle - but also stimulating - a new beginning, new opportunities to strive towards a better life and new artistic experiences.
It is this ambiguity that Dominique de Font-Réaulx, general councillor for heritage, special advisor to the president-director of the Louvre in Paris, member of the board of directors of the Louvre-Lens and curator of the exhibition, wanted to express. She admits that the project is first and foremost ‘personal’. ‘The first was
my long association with the painter Gustave Courbet, on whom I have been working for several decades now. The second is my relationship with the founding texts, whether literary like the Odyssey or the Aeneid, and the very beautiful pages, the very beautiful supplications of Ovid, when he is exiled to the ends of the known world, or texts from the Bible in particular or the Ramayana’.
The project was developed with the support of Marie Lavandier, former director of Louvre-Lens, and Laurence des Cars, president and director of the Louvre. ‘It’s an exhibition that spans the ages of humanity, with the oldest work dating back to 2000 BC and the most recent just a few weeks old. It’s also an exhibition that spans the globe, covering all continents,’ adds Annabelle Ténèze, director of Louvre-Lens.
The exhibition spans the ages of humanity, with the oldest work dating back to 2000 BC and the most recent just a few weeks old.
People have always lived in exile
The tour begins with Richard Baquié’s work “Nulle part est un endroit” (Nowhere is a place), in which the artist calls attention to the fact that there is no here, no there, no elsewhere, no stable place. The exhibition has been conceived as an eternal return: a round piece of furniture stands in the centre, where you can sit, read books on all forms of exile and simultaneously see all the pieces in the exhibition, between ancient and contemporary art. The set design by Atelier Maciej Fiszer shows the space in different ways, according to themes such as departure, displacement, the complexity of arrival, uprooting, meeting and welcoming.
Throughout, we learn that the world has always known exile: from Adam and Eve driven from Paradise, to the Flood and Noah’s Ark, via Homer’s Iliad to the wars of today.
Photographs evoke the former Calais Jungle and remind us that, every day, people put themselves at risk to find a better life, just a stone’s throw from where we live. Though, exile is not always bleak: ‘Victor Hugo was never as productive as he was during his exile,’ says the curator.
And here and there, belongings, bags and suitcases are displayed, reminding us of the difficult choice of what to take with us when we have to leave forever, and what to leave behind.
A national treasure on display
During the tour, visitors can admire works by famous artists such as Courbet, Picasso, Jeanne Delacroix and the Chinese painter Yan Pei-Ming, who lives in France, as well as lesser-known artists.
One masterpiece is not to be missed: “Marine Terrace” by Victor Hugo. ‘It’s a drawing that has been declared as a national treasure by the Ministry of Culture, and which was acquired as a national treasure by the Musée du Louvre,’ says the director.
Belongings, bags and suitcases are displayed, reminding us of the difficult choice of what to take with us when we have to leave forever, and what to leave behind
A link with the Mining Basin
There is also one place in particular that stands out: the collection of objects. This project was carried out by ten students from the École du Louvre. With the help of a variety of organisations, they contacted first, second and third-generation immigrants living in the Mining Basin of Pas-de-Calais, which includes towns like Béthune and Lens. The students asked them to display objects that might symbolise their families’ exile, reminding them of where they came from. These include bracelets, embroidery and crockery, as well as football shirts that, for some, evoke a dream yet to be realised!
From 25 September to 20 January 2025.
Dominique de Font-Réaulx, curator of the exhibition, wanted to express her relationship with the founding texts, whether literary like the Odyssey or the Aeneid, and the very beautiful pages, the very beautiful supplications of Ovid, when he is exiled to the ends of the known world.
DAY OUT
Take the high ground on Dewulf dune,
BETWEEN LEFFRINCKOUCKE AND ZUYDCOOTE
the
that
Accessible all year round, Dewulf dune offers a rather unique setting on the coastline and provides an opportunity to get away from the hustle and bustle of town thanks to its pretty paths leading down to the sea.
If you’re not afraid of coming back with sand in your shoes, and you’re looking for peace and quiet and beautiful scenery, then this walk is the perfect way to recharge your batteries. Departing from Leffrinckoucke or Zuydcoote, the paths that cross Dewulf sand dunes are full of sights to discover.
A loop around the dune
To get there, we parked in a small car park at the junction between the green cycle path and the private road to Zuydcoote. Once we’d put on our rucksacks, we walked a few feet along the walkway before taking a small path on the right that took us straight to the heart of the dune. After a ten-minute walk, we had two choices: follow the path towards the sea or continue up the dune. Too impatient to see the sea and the vast expanse of sand, we chose the first option. To enjoy the sound of the waves, and the fresh water, we walked along the beach for just over a mile until we reached Leffrinckoucke, where the boat ramp is located. The idea is then to walk past the Tourist Office, turn left onto boulevard Trystram and enter the woods to head back into the dune. After another mile or so, you’ll come to a lookout point from
Departing from Leffrinckoucke or Zuydcoote,
paths
cross Dewulf sand dunes are full of sights to discover.
which you can admire the view. From here, you can see the whole of the dune. The view from the top of the dunes is just as impressive. However, you are asked not to leave the marked paths in order to respect the work of the site managers belonging to the Conservatory of Coastal and Lake Shore Areas.
A unique landscape
If you pay close attention, you can see that the dune changes depending on where you are. That’s what makes it so special, and such an exceptional site. This area of over 350 hectares is divided into different zones. Depending on whether you’re facing the sea, in the hollow of the dunes, or in a place exposed to the winds, the flora and soils are not the same. Facing the sea, the dune will have less vegetation. Behind, you’ll find the grey dune, covered mainly with moss and lichen. And the further you move away from the wind and the
beach, the more flora will be present, with large wooded areas. No fewer than 300 different plant species can be found here. The result is an incredible array of colours. Both quiet and wild, this is a favourite spot for wildlife, particularly nesting birds, of which over 70 species have been recorded, as well as amphibians. It has everything to attract nature lovers and those seeking tranquillity.
Remnants of the Second World War
History buffs won’t be left out, either, as there are several blockhouses to discover along the way. On this walk, you’ll be able to spot the concrete blocks in the distance, remnants of the Second World War. The better-known Leffrinckoucke Battery is also worth a visit, although soil erosion makes it difficult to maintain. One of the blockhouses, covered in broken mirrors, is the main attraction of this battery.
No fewer than 300 different plant species can be found here. The result is an incredible array of colours.
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