Quaderni di Aemilia Ars Bianca Rosa Bellomo Carla D’Alessandro Luisa Monteventi
Basic Course Two DOILIES A ND INSERTS
Nuova S1
To our pupils
Translation by Jeanine Robertson
Š2015 all rights reserved Casa Editrice Nuova S1 s.n.c. di Pietro Cimmino Gibellini & C. Via Albertazzi, 6/5 - 40137 Bologna, Italy info@nuovas1.it - www.nuovas1.it www.facebook.com/merlettiericami.nuovas1 ISBN 9788885743113 First edition: May 2015 First English edition: January 2019
Quaderni di Aemilia Ars Bianca Rosa Bellomo Carla D’Alessandro Luisa Monteventi
Basic Course Two DOILIES A ND INSERTS
Works executed by Antonilla Cantelli (1914-2008), our master.
Table of Contents
Forward
Page 7
Guide to the support stitches
Page 8
The picot
Page 9
The little knot
Page 10
1. Geometric motif with roundels
Page 13
2. Geometric motif with triangles
Page 19
3. Flower
Page 25 !
4. Acorn
Page 31
5. Pomegranate
Page 37 !
6. Cherry
Page 45 !
7. Strawberry
Page 51
8. Lily of the Valley
Page 57
5
Needles nos. 8-9-10 are used. Layer the card-support, the pattern, the vellum paper and bind them with a no. 8 needle. Prick the holes in the card-support with a no. 9 needle. Baste the support stitches with a no. 10 needle. Work with a no. 9 needle. Instead of vellum paper you can use lacemaker’s coloured self-adhesive matte film. The principle advantage is that this film allows multiple reuses of the card-support/pattern assembly. We have used it here to make our scans more legible.
Threads: - for the support stitches: Coats Glace no. 40 or another fine and tough glazed cotton hand quilting thread. - for the lace: DMC Cordonnet no. 60, SpĂŠcial Dentelles no. 80 or Coton a Broder/Cutwork no. 30.
Often when starting to execute a motif, you can leave the thread attached to the spool or ball. In the advancement of the work, this allows the cutting of the thread at the length desired at the most opportune moment.
6
Forward For a long time time simple artifacts of geometric design were referred to as Aemilia Ars, derived from Reticello. The reason is that Aemilia Ars – and we mean the original company, Società per Azioni (1898-1903) and the subsequent company, Società Anonima Coopertiva (1903-1935) – departed from Reticello which led to the pinnacle of heights and its fame spread everywhere. It happened quickly, the progression to punto in aria, more suitable for making artistic and complicated designs, but something of the geometric remained, often so discretely as to go unnoticed. The geometric designs are good practise for alerting attention to individual details such as, in this Basic Course Two, the first motifs proposed: one contains the roundel [pagnottina tonda in Italian symbolizes a round little loaf of bread], the second: the triangle [puntine in Italian are pointed shapes or tips], the third: the little arches. We continue with the acorn, the pomegranate, the cherry and the strawberry. We could not forget a flower, so here it is at the conclusion: a lily of the valley in its simplest version. You will find the patterns at actual size preceding each chapter. The pomegranate pattern is with that of the acorn on page 30. The strawberry pattern is together with that of the cherry on page 44. They can be added for the embellishment of larger designs and the Notebook (Quaderno) concludes on page 63 with a flowery lily of the valley doily. The small motifs are enclosed in the same frame shape so as to be able to be used in combination for doilies, curtains, and for anything that your imagination might suggest. The reworked versions are by Carla D’Alessandro. The old patterns and card-assemblies that we have reprinted come from the archive of the Women’s Work School of the Sacred Heart of Jesus (Scuola Femminile di Lavoro del Sacro Cuore di Gesù) founded in 1912 by Don Riccardo Zucchi (1869-1929). Much of the material of the archive has been inherited by us and we are very happy to share it. This Quaderno is dedicated to our pupils, to their questions and to their difficulties which have allowed us to give useful written explanations to everyone; to the pupils who are near and to those that come from far away with so much enthusiasm that it relieves the fatigue of travel; to the continuous stimuli that they can give us, to the patterns that they want to adapt, to their creativity in imagined applications, to their knowledge which increases our own, to the skills of a few who can already teach; and finally, to the good times spent together, often in joy.
7
Guide to the principle support stitches There are some general criteria for basting the support stitches; in the following listing we have illustrated a few of them. In any case it is good to always keep a needle threaded with the no. 40 thread nearby to add support stitches when necessary.
! ! The inner curve
! The inner tip with curved lines
The full circle
! ! ! The outer curve
The empty oval
! !
! The outer tip
The empty oval with wrapped bars
!
The empty circle with wrapped bars
! !
The inner tip
The empty circle
The full oval 8
The full circle
The picot
Insert the needle in the middle of the Buttonhole stitch forming a loop, with one part of the thread held and one that slides (figure 1). Pass the needle once under the thread the slides (figure 2)… figure 1
figure 2
…twice (figure 3)…
…three times (figure 4). figure 3
figure 5
figure 7
figure 4
On the needle there are now three wraps. Slide the thread through the three wraps, closing the loop slowly and without tightening (figure 5). With the tip of the needle lift the first wrap at the top (figure 6), bring it towards the bottom (figure 7) and pull tight (figure 8). Pass the thread under the picot (figure 9).
figure 8
figure 6
figure 9
9
End of preview You can order this book on www.nuovas1.it/eng
Quaderni di Aemilia Ars
Basic Course Two DOILIES A ND INSERTS
In the continuation of the educational journey learned from our master, Antonilla Cantelli, we propose simple works of varied difficulty. The motifs are suitable for many applications and provide the basis for further development.
ISBN 978-8885743113
â‚Ź 15,00
9 788885 743113