Spoon Magazine Winter 2022

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WHAT TYPE OF PASTA ARE YOU? PG. 7 COLLEGE FRIENDLY CARBONARA PG. 26 WHY KRAFT IS SIGNIFICANT TO MY LIFE PG. 30 Q&A WITH MY ITALIAN GRANDMOTHER PG. 38

WINTER 2022

THE PASTA ISSUE

From the Editor L

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PRESIDENTS

butternut squash ravioli in butter and sage

Eden Hirschfield & Zoe Dockser

VICE PRESIDENT PRINT EDITOR TREASURER ONLINE EDITOR PHOTO DIRECTOR DESIGN DIRECTOR PUBLISHING ASSISTANT SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR BUSINESS/FUNDRAISING DIRECTORS NEW MEMBER COORDINATOR EVENTS DIRECTOR

Dani Allen lasagne Zoe Malin Dayna Rapkin Nixie Strazza Lucy Jung Isabelle Hauf-Pisoni Sara Frank Margot Present Isabelle Kenagy & Maya Mahoney Celine Macura Maddie Malueg penne alla vodka

EDITORIAL

Caroline Labow, George Esteve, Grace Wang, Lola Bodé, Deniz Yoruk, Anthony Xie, Cleo Kanter, Mia Rhee, Dahlia Trilling, Gia Khanna, Isabelle May, Jonathan Perkins Alison Roman’s shallot pasta with buccatini

DESIGN

Kelsie Yu, Isabel Gitten, Cammi Tirico, Gretchen Raedle, Maia Sporn, Aviva Bechky, Wendy Zhu pork ragu rigatoni

PHOTO

Katy Kim, Maddie Morse, Christina Chen, Steven Zheng, Sydney Schulman, Kevin Park, mac and cheese Sulwen Ma, Mira Brodsky

SOCIAL MEDIA

Taylor Doyle, Sarah McGrath, Jordyn Lemer, Charlotte Newman, Allie Gold, Ananya Gupta, Matthew Moseley, Jessica Bradford, Stephanie Shields, Jenna Friedman, Callie Morgan, Alexia Kadota-Browner, Katie Brodsky

EVENTS

cacio e pepe

Caroline Bercu, Shray Vaidya, Stephanie Markowitz, Hailey Donato, Allie Mizota, Beatrice Bailey, Justin Spitz, Emily Chow

BUSINESS RELATIONS

gnocchi

Nina Petrouski, Skylar Scharer, Izzy Riback, Elizabeth Farassat, Ploenta (Ploen) Voraprukpisut, Betsy Winick, Angela Lee, Mingze (Lily) Yan, Mary Childs Hall, Jaida Hill, Matthew Lorenz, Clara Luczak, Brian Albert, Ellie Huppe, Jessie Lanin, Victoria Deng 2022

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What pasta are you?

Every pasta shape is cool, except angel hair — sorry, we don’t make the rules on that one.

By Sarah Meadow, Nina Petrouski and Gia Khanna Designed by Cammi Tirico What’s your favorite sauce?

A. Marinara B. Vodka C. Pesto

What’s your favorite color?

A. Pink B. Blue C. Green

Where’s your favorite study spot on campus?

A. Deering B. Mudd C. Norris What’s your go-to gameday accessory?

A. Purple cheerleading skirt B. Overalls C. Purple sunglasses If you’re at an Italian restaurant, what’s your go-to side dish?

A. Meatballs B. Garlic Bread C. Buratta If you got mostly A’s, you’re PENNE If you got penne, you love classics. You don’t overcomplicate things, and honestly, we wish we were more like you. You’re the friend that everyone goes to for advice, and you put the least amount of effort into your outfits but look like you did the most: When you’re wearing a sweater and jeans, somehow you’re a supermodel off-duty. You love a latte from Newport, but only with almond milk because you stick to the basics: No macadamia or hemp for you.

What is your favorite social media platform?

A. Instagram B. Twitter C. Pinterest What’s your favorite cuisine?

A. American B. No preference, depends on what I’m craving in the moment C. Sushi

If you got mostly B’s, you’re RIGATONI If you got rigatoni, you’re basic — but there’s nothing wrong with that! You love a good plate of rigatoni vodka, but wait… Take a picture of it for your food ‘gram first. You can’t stop listening to Taylor Swift’s new album (FROM THE VAULT ONLY), but you also dabble in Adele’s record while you drink your morning cup of Joe. You can be found at a tailgate in a purple cheer skirt (in any kind of weather) and love to brunch with your friends at Le Peep.

If you got a mix of A’s & B’s, you’re SPAGHETTI If you got spaghetti, you like things to be orderly.

You’re secretly a little bit of a neat freak, and let’s be honest, you’re probably the mom of your friend group. You have your life together, and even if you don’t entirely, you definitely make it look like you do. You’re the friend that we all look up to the most and are sure to be the friend that our parents love meeting during family weekend. But you get crazy sometimes, exemplified through your weird major/ minor combination that only makes sense for you — no one else could be so passionate about economics and gastronomy (or something like that).

If you got mostly C’s, you’re FARFALLE If you got farfalle, you’re definitely the quirky one in your friend group. You probably have a tiny god complex because you routinely get compliments on your incredible style, but it’s justified. You spend most of your time at Norbucks, and your go-to is a Venti cold brew, even in the dead of winter. You cut your own curtain bangs, and while you regret it a little bit, you’d never say that out loud. Halloween is your holiday, and your costumes are usually the best, even if they were super last minute.

If you got a mix of B’s & C’s, you’re ORECCHIETTE If you got orecchiette, you’re someone who likes elevated classics. You secretly love being the center of attention, but would never outwardly admit it.

You’re the bubbly member of your friend group, and are most likely in the arts — let’s be honest, you’re either in an acapella group or went through a SERIOUS “Cups”/Anna Kendrick phase. You secretly love the fact that Pitch Perfect is based on Northwestern but only talk about it with your home friends. On a night out, you’re usually one of the only people in your friend group who’s down to keep going, and we love you for it.

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The pasta necklace: The one time adults said ‘Play with your food’ From gold plated to dyed, pasta on a string is perfection in all forms.

PHOTO BY KATY KIM

By Mia Rhee Designed by S. Kelsie Yu

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s young children, we all remember making macaroni necklaces in preschool. We spent what felt like hours on the faded rug or sticky linoleum floor tediously stringing away. Our fingers sifted through piles of multicolored pastel plastic beads, which we strung between starchy yellow elbow macaroni noodles.

This edible art form had somewhat of an allure — an item found in our pantries at home, one we were told by our parents should never be eaten raw, was now acceptable to play with in the classroom or park. It touches on the age-old childhood desire to play with your food, no matter how many times you’re told not to. And I would be lying if I did not confess that my childhood self, despite my better judgement, was tempted to lick — or daringly crunch — a few uncooked noodles.

The #pastanecklace on Instagram reveals that the macaroni necklace can follow us into adulthood.

Pasta jewelry makers of all ages share different adaptations of this art form. Some opt for bold rigatoni noodles, which have a long, hollow, cylindrical shape and are easy to slip through string or yarn.

Others utilize penne, as its angular edges offer a geometric and stylized flair. Even the small ditalini are used, which are like perler beads, allowing jewelers to string more pieces of pasta on a singular string. And of course, there’s the classic macaroni noodle.

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Other pasta necklace craftsmen take their jewelry a step further by dying pasta noodles many different hues. After mixing food coloring with vinegar or alcohol and coating the noodles, the once bland yellow shapes become vibrant reds, yellows and greens. A process like dying Easter Eggs, the interactive elements of making pasta necklaces from dying to decorating, and even stringing, is a playful experience. The transformation from the ordinary buttered rigatoni noodle served at dinner to a rainbow necklace is somewhat magical.

But more than the art form itself, there is something to be said about wearing pasta as a necklace.

Perhaps the clanking uncooked noodles from the necklaces of our childhood selves are not the best accessories in the adult world. However, some jewelers sell food-inspired pieces plated in silver and gold, making the pasta necklace an acceptable accessory even for adults.

Plated in gold, dyed with food coloring or just a naked noodle, the appeal of the pasta necklace is multifaceted. As a child, it offered the opportunity to play with one’s food in a non-taboo form. As adults, the pasta necklace hits home on the nostalgic notes and solidifies a universal love for noodles.

For me, though, the pasta necklace’s appeal stems from excitement: The possibility that what is used as beads for jewelry could just as easily become tonight’s dinner.

Starter

A tribute to T-Mac In honor of my favorite dorm meal, I write this ode to Trader Joes’ mac and cheese, a consistently delicious dining experience.

By Beatrice Bailey Designed by S. Kelsie Yu

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trek from North Campus to the store — 1.6 miles in the freezing cold — to stock up.

I face the glares as I pile box after box into my cart, and face the inevitable judgement from the Hawaiian shirt-adored cashier as I purchase 10 packs.

The walk home is arduous as I carry a backpack full of frozen boxes. But my excitement about the impending meal keeps me warm.

It’s the mac and cheese from Trader Joe’s that keeps me going during exam season. The quarter system leaves me little free time, but the six microwave minutes that cook my T-Mac are worth the wait. Whether it’s consolation from a poor performance on an exam or the warm welcome home from a night out, T-Mac does it all.

I endure the grime of the countertops in my dorm’s communal kitchen to follow the strenuous and involved process of heating the frozen pasta. Before I gently place the dish in the microwave, I unsheath the tray and see ice crystals on the cheese, hiding the delectable comfort below. I puncture holes in the plastic wrapping to create an escape route for steam and a safe dining experience.

The frozen block slowly turns into noodles and a symphony of cheeses as the microwave heats the dish. The rivers of Gouda, Haverti, cheddar and Swiss flow into each other, melting into golden goodness. The sides of the pan start to crisp — burning just enough — before the beep of the microwave rings out. I rush to open the appliance, pressing the button before the sound turns off.

I peel back the wrapping to reveal the smoking pieces of macaroni

PHOTOS BY SULWEN MA

coated in a blanket of fromage.

I can barely wait as I drill my fork in and combine the different cheeses. Mixing turns the flavors into a coherent tasty mix. I can barely contain my excitement, digging in before the steam subsides, and I slightly burn my tongue. But I don’t feel the pain: All I feel is the warm mac and cheese going down my throat.

T-Mac’s taste is incomparable. Kraft tries and fails to match its level. Annie’s is delicious but still can’t come close. The complexity of T-Mac’s cheeses interacting in my mouth creates a sensation transcendent to the rest.

As I take bite after bite, indulging in the deliciousness, too soon I find myself scraping the plastic tray. Hitting the bottom is a sad disruption to my dining experience, but my stomach and heart are full.

Thank you Joe, and thank you T-Mac. I can’t imagine my life without you.

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A student’s guide to the best

Put your taste buds to the test at these eateries in the Windy City.

Whether you’re looking for a place to scratch the pasta itch, a new ramen spot for date night or an upscale take on Greek classics, look no further — We’ve compiled all your new favorites into a list shorter than an elbow of macaroni.

nooodle shops

By George Esteve Designed by Isabel Gitten PHOTOS BY MIRA BRODSKY

Monteverde Restaurant & Pastificio Since its 2015 opening, Chef Sarah Grueneberg and her team have captivated Chicago’s food scene. Take a walk down West Madison any night of the week and Monteverde has a line out the door.

“What’s really different about us is our pastificio,” said Rob Mosher, a managing partner at the restaurant. “Most restaurants – even ones with Michelin-stars – make their pasta earlier in the day, throw it on sheet trays and then cook it once service runs around.” Mosher said Grueneberg noticed the lack of fresh-to-order pasta in the American Italian scene and wanted to change that.

So during service every night, Maria and Besa, the restaurant’s pasta-maestras, man the pastificio’s “pasta TV,” the affectionately-named pasta production counter sitting just above the bar.

And it’s not just their pasta. Monteverde goes to every possible length to ensure their customers get the very best, aging their own lambrusco balsamic vinegar over six years and testing it through a government-certified Parmigiano Reggiano taster.

Mosher admits that reservations “can be tough to come by,” but he assured me that the wait is never too long, and walk-ins are always welcome. He also extended a particularly warm welcome to students, emphasizing that seats at the bar are reserved for walk-ins only, so there’s always a spot for them. Mosher said the restaurant has something for every budget, too. “Even though everything we make here is very artisanal, we’re all about Italian hospitality and giving everyone the opportunity to try what we make,” he said.

I tried the artichoke and sunchoke crostino during my visit. The bread was perfectly crusty, and one bite gave way to a soft interior that paired well with the meaty texture of the artichokes and slight chew of the herbs.

The gnocchetti con pesto was also delicious. It was served with ligurian-style pesto that couldn’t have been smoother, a sharp yet melt-in-your-mouth pecorino and toasted pine nuts to balance it all out. Monteverde also offers a gluten-free menu, and almost any dish on their menu can be made dairy-free or vegan.

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Friends Ramen Walk into Friends Ramen and you’ll immediately agree that it lives up to its name. The hall leading into the dining room is decorated to feel like the welcoming Torii Path of Kyoto, and a wall decked out in post-its is an even bigger testament to the restaurant’s hospitality – it features notes from regulars and critics that highlight Friends’ commitment to taking heed of the wishes of everyone who passes through their gates.

But it isn’t just the ambience that gives Friends its homey vibe: Friends makes sure every bite of its ramen is special. The staff recommends the karaage chicken ramen, a combination of succulent meat with a crisp coating and homemade noodles.

Avli River North Dubbed a “sensation” and “mega-hit” by Eater Chicago last year, this Greek-American chain features dishes that are much more refined (and definitely a little pricier) than your usual Chicago Kronos or Grecian delight gyro.

Avli’s restaurants have been open for a while now, so the team behind the phenomenon has become well-versed in the art of Greek food. The staff-favorite lobster pasta is a must-try, with a rich yet just slightly spicy cream sauce and the clean flavor of ouzo to finish.

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Pastas

Battle of the

Did Gigi Hadid invent TikTok’s best pasta dish? Spoon investigates.

By Deniz Yoruk and Jessica Bradford Designed by Maia Sporn All foodies on TikTok have a feed full of mouthwatering dishes.

However, it seems like everyone — whether they use TikTok or not — has at least some knowledge of two pasta recipes in particular: baked feta pasta and spicy vodka pasta. These recipes went viral to the point that they even caused country-wide shortages of feta cheese.

Each pasta recipe had its moment in the spotlight, but which dish deserves the title of “Best TikTok Pasta”? We made both and put them to the test.

Spicy Vodka Pasta Although supermodel Gigi Hadid certainly didn’t invent spicy pasta alla vodka, this dish is widely known across TikTok as “The Gigi Hadid Pasta.” The process is pretty simple: Sauté garlic and onion in a pan, add tomato paste, red pepper, vodka and cream, and let the sauce heat up before tossing it with pasta, butter, pasta water and parmesan cheese. The result is a saucy bowl of comfort with a hint of spice and depth of flavor that makes it feel gourmet.

Baked Feta Pasta Finnish food content creator Jenni Häyrinen’s viral Baked Feta Pasta recipe made everyone on TikTok run to grocery stores for feta cheese. To make this simple dish, add some olive oil to a pan, place a block of feta cheese in the middle and surround the cheese with cherry tomatoes. To get the flavors going, add in some chopped garlic, red chili flakes, freshly cracked black pepper and olive oil.

Then, bake at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 minutes. Mix in cooked pasta and you have a plate of cheesy goodness.

PHOTOS BY SARA FRANK

Taste: Warm, comforting and a touch fancier than instant ramen, this dish is the only thing we want to eat during the frigid winter.

Taste: This salty and creamy pasta is definitely dreamy. The acidity of the tomatoes balances out the sharpness of the feta cheese to create a rich flavor.

Looks: Though the grainy texture of the feta cheese doesn’t look incredibly appealing, it’s still Instagram worthy.

Cost: Low Difficulty: Low Considering it has very few This pasta recipe is the definition ingredients, the baked feta pasta of low effort, high quality. The is quite affordable to make. dish basically cooks itself.

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Difficulty: Medium While this recipe doesn’t demand a lot of cooking skills, chopping up garlic and onion can be time consuming, and making the sauce requires some attention.

It’s definitely beginner friendly, but more hands on than putting a block of feta in the oven.

Looks: This pasta is pretty enough to convince your friends and family that you’re an experienced chef (especially if you garnish it with some basil and parmesan).

Cost: Low to Medium The ingredient list is a bit longer than the baked feta pasta, but items are all easily accessible at a pretty reasonable price (with the exception of vodka, which can be omitted).

Our Final Verdict While baked feta pasta may be easier, we crown spicy vodka pasta TikTok’s best recipe.

Flights

PASTA SHAPES 101

Which pasta shapes pair best with which sauces?

We’ve got you covered.

By Lucy Jung Designed by Gretchen Raedle

Picture this: Just when you thought pasta was supposed to help you recover after a terrible week, the waiter at your favorite restaurant tells you they’re out of tagliatelle aglio e olio. You ask for the bucatini with cream sauce, but he says that’s sold out, too. At this point, you can’t think straight and you don’t know how to proceed with your order.

You end up settling for spaghetti with tomato sauce, the most boring pairing of all.

To help you avoid this dilemma, Spoon created a guide to pasta pairings, walking you through which sauces complement which noodles.

Your choices are endless — there are more options than there are days of winter in Evanston.

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Flights

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Flights PHOTOS BY ZOE DOCKSER

Bread To Sop Up The Sauce Not sure what to do with your leftover pasta sauce? The only right answer is to sop it up with bread from Evanston’s best bakeries.

By Zoe Dockser Designed by Cammi Tirico For me, reaching the bottom of a pot of pasta and seeing a bit of leftover sauce just waiting to be spread across bread is what some might call a spiritual experience. Whether it’s a slice of focaccia or a chunk of baguette, I can’t go wrong when I wipe my bowl clean. With this in mind, I set out on a quest to find bread from local Evanston bakeries I could have on hand during my next pasta night.

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Great Harvest >>> A farmer’s market favorite, Great Harvest has everything you could possibly want when it comes to bread. And no bread basket is complete without the bakery’s focaccia. It features a savory blend of oregano, basil, parsley and garlic, and is topped with mozzarella, fresh spinach and feta. To properly showcase the beautiful, aromatic ingredients of this focaccia, I recommend pairing it with a basic sauce, such as tomato or pesto. I also found a plethora of bread rolls at Great Harvest, like Virginia potato rolls with butter, garlic, basil and oregano. The rolls are soft and flavorful, and fitting to serve at a big dinner party — you can distribute one to each of your guests.

<<< Hewn When I arrived at Hewn, I was greeted by none other than the fabulous Julie Matthei, one of the bakery’s co-owners. She was more than happy to help me in my quest to build the perfect bread basket. An infamous bakery with pastries and breads galore, I expected the best and that’s exactly what I got. I left Hewn with fresh ciabatta and a seeded baguette. Ciabbatta was an easy choice, as it has a crust on the outside while the inside features holes you can fill with sauce. My second pick, the seeded baguette, was truly to die for. It was crispy and crunchy on the outside, covered with seeds of all different kinds and gooey and chewy on the inside. This blend of textures was only amplified when I dipped the bread in warm sauce.

Bennison’s >>> Last but not least, I arrived at an Evanston staple: Bennison’s. While you may know Bennison’s for its sweets, its bread is just as fantastic. Inspired by my previous two stops, I decided to build upon what was already in my bread basket. I added an Italian roll and a mini baguette. The basic Italian roll compliments sauce that’s packed with flavors you don’t want to distract from. As for the mini baguette, I suggest eating it alongside meatballs or a bolognese sauce. It’s sized for one person to enjoy and coated with sesame seeds, brown flax seeds, rolled oats and millet.

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Flights

HOW TO BUILD A RAMEN BOWL Evanston chefs offer five beyond-the-box tips for constructing a scrumptious ramen bowl.

By Jenna Friedman and Izzy May Designed by Isabelle Hauf PHOTOS BY MIRA BRODSKY

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Flights

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Flights

P

airing the right wine with the right pasta is an art. And when it came to finding out the key to the best combinations, we knew just who to turn to: wine shops in Evanston. The city is home to a myriad of charming small businesses, among them three exquisite wine shops that college students and local residents can visit to get advice about completing their carb-filled meals.

“The number one thing is to know what you enjoy,” said Glen Kanwit, owner of Lush Wine & Spirits. Guy Comerci, owner of Vinissimo Wine Shop, echoed this sentiment: “First and foremost, you drink what you like. There is no judgement.” And Sanbeep Ghaey, the owner of Vinic Wine, had another suggestion: “Drink where it comes from -- what goes together grows together!”

From pesto pasta to spaghetti bolognese, these experts identified a few bottles to pair with each plate.

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A standard tomato sauce can dazzle the refined palette without the frills of other, more elaborate dishes. So for this meal, Comerci selected an Italian red: ​​Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. An Ovis brand Napa Valley Cabernet would also work well, according to Kanwit — it’s a more complex and flavorful wine for a simpler pasta dish.

An excellent vodka sauce is a staple of any good pasta menu.

“Since it typically has a creamy texture, you either want to go creamy with creamy, or you want a red wine that can cut through that cream,” Comerci advised. Kanwit recommended something acidic and spicy, such as a red blend from the Châteauneuf du Pape region of France. For those who prefer a lighter blend, Ghaey suggested Roero Arneis, a white wine fermented in Piedmont, Italy.

A filling, protein-heavy bolognese or meat sauce pairs well with a rich and flavorful red, such as the Pax Syrah from the Sonoma Coast in California (found at Lush Wine & Spirits) or the Nebbiolo from northwestern Spain (found at Vinic Wine).

Vinissimo’s shelves offered a red 2019 Chianti Classico made with Sangiovese grapes, which helps cut through the fattiness of the bolognese.

Pomodoro & marinara

Vodka sauce

Bolognese

PASTA AND WINE: A MATCH MADE IN HEAVEN 2022

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Pesto marries basil, pine nuts, garlic, olive oil and parmesan, making for a delicate yet flavorful option. Kanwit recommended a Portuguese red wine known as Esporão, a blend that ranges in price.

Comerci noted that a white San Pietro Friulano from the Friuli region of Northern Italy would also fit well with pesto.

A heavier sauce, like a creamy alfredo, may pair well with an Austrian Pinot Noir, Kanwit said. It’s a softer, subtler take on a widely-loved red variety. Comerci posited that the American dish would do well with an American Chardonnay from California’s Napa Valley — in particular, he recommended a label from Aviary.

The ultimate go-to is a buttered noodle.

Whether you enjoy it as an easy, basic dish at home or done-up with restaurant decadence on a night out, Ghaey said that buttered pasta always pairs with an Italian Chardonnay for a light and simple flavor combination.

Pesto

Alfredo

Butter pasta

For an affordable, relaxing night in, college students often turn to instant options like Top Ramen. To add some ambiance to this casual at-home meal, Ghaey suggested a Southern French red like Cordarone to compliment a beef ramen, or Beaujolais wine for a chicken or pork dish. Both Comerci and Kanwit recommended a Pinot Grigio to go with this microwavable delicacy, too.

A nuanced wine pairing can elevate any dining experience. Mixing and matching drinks and dishes is a great way to get creative and to take pasta to new heights. There’s no need to get fancy either: According to Ghaey, “champagne and fried chicken is a classic!”

Instant noodles

Evanston wine and liquor shops told us which bottles of vino to pair with mouth-watering pasta dishes. By Cleo Kanter and Stephanie Markowitz Designed by Aviva Becky PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA CHENG

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Appetizer Starter

The secret to upgraded marinara pasta? Cashew cream!

By Stephanie Shields Designed by Maia Sporn

A dreamy, creamy 15-minute weeknight meal.

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INGREDIENTS 2 8 oz. boxes of pasta (I recommend Banza rotini for extra protein) 2 tbsp. salt 1 tbsp. olive oil ½ small yellow onion 3 cloves garlic, minced ½ red bell pepper ½ medium zucchini 2 cups spinach 1 24 oz. can of tomato sauce ½ cup raw cashews ½ cup pasta water 4 tbsp. nutritional yeast Optional: 4 vegetarian sausages (I recommend Beyond Meat Hot Italian sausage)

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By Steven Zheng Designed by Isabelle Hauf PHOTO BY STEVEN ZHENG

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Enjoy this salad-turned-spring roll before any noodle dish.

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a taste of beijing

Take a trip to the culturally rich, lively streets of China with the help of my mom’s Zha Jiang Mian.

By Grace Wang Designed by Isabelle Hauf PHOTO BY GRACE WANG

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1 tbsp. oil ½ lb. ground beef 1 tsp. black pepper 2 cloves of garlic (minced) 3 slices of ginger (minced finely) ½ cup scallion (thinly sliced) 3 oz. Chinese dried tofu (cubed) 6 oz. sweet bean sauce ½ cup celery (chopped) ¼ cup carrots (thinly sliced) ½ cup cucumbers (thinly sliced) ½ cup napa cabbage (thinly sliced) 1 tsp. to 1tbsp. water (if needed) ¼ cup cilantro (minced, for garnish)

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Appetizer

COLLEGE COMFORT CARBONARA

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA CHENG

By Jon Perkins Designed by Isabelle Hauf

A pasta recipe made for and by students.

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1 1/3 cups), plus more for garnish 4 tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

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E x cl u si v e sa v ings for Nor t h w es t ern s tu den t s Save 10% on your order with student ID at The Graduate Homestead Room, a cozy new restaurant serving up American comfort food, just a few blocks from campus at Graduate Evanston.

(847) 475-3300

1625 Hinman Ave, Evanston, IL 60201

graduatehotels.com/evanston

Entrees

A homemade history fifty years in the making Dave Glatt reflects on half a century making pizza and pasta at his Evanston restaurant.

By Nixie Strazza, Designed by Cammi Tirico Every morning at 8:00 a.m., Dave Glatt wakes up to make fresh Italian bread. He hand-kneads the dough into uniform loaves, a technique he’s perfected during his over fifty years in the restaurant industry.

Since opening Dave’s Italian Kitchen in 1972, Glatt has prided himself on his “made from scratch” mantra. Pappardelle, ravioli, sauces and soups are crafted in-house using recipes pulled from different decades of his life.

The restaurant has moved between many different locations since its original opening, most recently setting up shop on Noyes Street in 2016. The aptly renamed Dave’s New Kitchen features the same bolognese and hand-tossed pizza loved by Evanstonians over the years. And now, Dave’s is completely contactless — it relies solely on take-out and delivery orders. Glatt said the model, adopted during the COVID-19 pandemic, puts more focus on the food and allows for a personalized approach to preparation.

“You make a nice dish and you put it on Instagram,” Glatt said.

“Now imagine you have to make ten of them and people are yelling at you to do it faster. With take-out you don’t have that.”

A commuter student at the University of Illinois Chicago during the Vietnam War, Glatt said his career in food service started when he was a pizza delivery driver. Universities across the country shut down after the Kent State anti-war demonstrations, and Glatt said he needed an opportunity to make some extra cash.

Between trips transporting pizzas around the city, Glatt said he found himself in the kitchen. He learned how to make the perfect pie

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and a classic Marinara sauce by observing his co-workers.

“With the help of some friends, I learned more and more about food,” Glatt said. “There was a fascination with food, just watching it do what it’s doing.”

Cookbooks served as a source of inspiration for the restaurant’s early recipes. Glatt said he spent countless hours thumbing through pages in his early twenties, trying his hand at carbonara and lasagna.

Dynamic shifts in American culture impacted Glatt’s work in the kitchen. Due to the women’s liberation movement in the 1970s, the number of two income households increased. Without a full-time matriarch preparing each meal, Glatt said more families turned to eating out.

“No one wanted to cook at home anymore,” Glatt said.

According to Glatt, Italian food of the disco era started and ended with spaghetti and pizza. Sushi, Thai food, curries and pestos were foreign concepts to the majority of American families.

“Chinese food was something called Chop Suey, French food was Coq au Vin,” Glatt said. “I just happened to be there when foodism exploded.”

Dave’s made Italian food accessible to the Evanston community.

In tandem with prevalent social movements, Glatt said exposure to new flavors fostered open mindedness and a greater regard for other cultures.

Already a self-proclaimed espresso aficionado, Glatt became a wine seller and collector. He said he studied wine and food pairings to

Entrees elevate the dining experience, fuelled by the fascination that sparked his initial venture into the culinary world.

When the building of Dave’s second location was torn down, the restaurant found a home closer to campus. For sixteen years, Glatt brought pizza and pasta to the basement space Prairie Moon now occupies.

Glatt said running the restaurant out of a basement was a grueling labor of love. The unusual layout made it difficult to advertise its presence and connect with the community. Glatt said he is relieved to no longer manage the unwieldy undertaking and the 70-foot cook line.

“Bathed in infamy and lack of money, I walked out of that place thinking “What’s next?’” Glatt said.

Though he considered heading to Mexico to pursue his ametuer ballroom dance career, Glatt said local support and an email from Evanton’s economic development manager, Paul Zalmezak, kept him in the area.

Zalmezak connected Glatt with “benevolent” local realtor Harry Major who manages New Kitchen’s current Noyes Street property.

Glatt said Major’s emphasis on tenants’ well-being over crushing rent made rebuilding possible.

After the restaurant got back on its feet, the pandemic completely altered day-to-day operations. Glatt prioritized keeping staff employed throughout the mandated shutdown and learned to adapt to ever-changing state guidelines.

It was during this time Glatt became “the bread guy.” Though he missed interplay with customers and regular patrons, Glatt said New Kitchen developed a highly efficient system.

“We have this really vibrant take-out business,” Glatt said. “I’m almost 72, so believe it or not, by restaurant standards, what I do now is easy.”

Glatt said his post-pandemic role at the restaurant is centered around baking bread and sourcing ingredients for dinner, a task currently made difficult by widespread supply chain shortages. For

example, when a piece of his Italian-made pasta machine broke, Glatt said he scrambled to get a hold of a replacement since there was a lack of available resources worldwide.

Given its success in the face of adversity, Dave’s New Kitchen will continue operating as a take-out only establishment for the foreseeable future. Glatt said the reduced-stress environment gave him a chance to step back from head chef responsibilities and consider the prospect of retirement.

“I don’t necessarily want to stop doing what I’m doing,” Glatt said.

“I want to keep my guys going until they are ready to stop.”

His future plans include a trip to Italy. Despite his dedication to the food, Glatt said running a restaurant got in the way of vacationing in the home of the Margarita pie. He hopes to visit with his wife when the restaurant business restablizes.

A traditionalist at heart, Glatt’s favorite item on the menu remains the sausage pizza. He said no matter the latest food trend, it will always be his go-to.

Glatt is grateful for Evanston residents’ support, and said their loyalty keeps the restaurant alive. As vital members of the community, Glatt encouraged students to order from New Kitchen the next time the need for comfort strikes.

“If you want homemade food, this is what we do,” he said.

“If you want homemade food, this is what we do.”

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PHOTOS BY SYDNEY SCHULMAN

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Entrees

The Blue Box has always given me comfort. In fact, as a kid, it’s no exaggeration to say that it accounted for about 75 percent of my meals. The unnatural yellow “cheese” always made my mouth water.

Lunch or dinner, I would frequently request one thing: Kraft.

I basically grew up on Kraft mac and cheese. At home, or at one of the local restaurants my family visited, I could always count on seeing my health-conscious mother rolling her eyes as I dug my heels in and ordered Kraft. But I know she could see the excitement in mine.

Food in general, and mac and cheese in particular, has been a theme in my life. It’s part of my family’s culture and our common language: The adventure of trying new restaurants every weekend, rating our experiences and spending time together. I brought flair to the table as I was usually the one to scope out the newest eateries. But for a long time, I opted out of new dishes and kept to the tried and true: Blue.

Appearance? Five out of ten.

I took a bite. Cheddary with a distinct sharpness.

Taste? Eight out of ten.

Overall experience? Seven out of ten.

Suddenly, my stomach gurgled in the way it does when it’s too full to take in anything more. The lyrics, “I’m still alive but I’m barely breathing…” played over and over in my head.

My stomach, along with my brain, obviously couldn’t fathom the fact that I had just taken a bite out of the eighth bowl of mac and cheese put in front of me that day. I may have been full, but I was thriving, participating in my self-made “Houston Mac and Cheese Hunt.”

And then, at some point, probably later in life than I want to admit, I decided to take the plunge. I diversified my taste buds and let go of my trepidation. I decided it would be okay to try something new.

When I surrendered to the possibility that there might be more to food than Kraft, I admitted that I did not have to rely on the stable, predictable and somewhat bland circle into which I had put myself.

It wasn’t bad; in fact, it was comfortable. But it could never be a lifelong pursuit. Afterall, I could not be the woman ordering Kraft on first dates.

F

Flash forward a few years — I surveyed the bowl in front of me: Cavatappi noodles drenched in a canary yellow cheese sauce, which couldn’t be further away from Kraft’s bright yellow shade.

M

It included ten different restaurants in five hours, each with a mac and cheese dish to taste, rate and discuss, and then post about on a dedicated Snapchat account for my friends to follow along.

A close friend was my mac and cheese partner-in-crime, and we even picked up others on the way as guest judges. We followed a strict schedule, drove around the city and ate mac and cheese. I still can’t think of a better, more exciting way to spend a Saturday.

Mac and cheese, the most comforting of the comfort foods, was perfect for the adventure. It was close to my heart but allowed me to try new things. I was pushing boundaries that were once too intimidating to approach.

Here I am now, five years later. I’m open to new experiences and grateful for the ones I’ve had. And, of course, I feel secure in the knowledge that the Blue Box is still there for me, ready in 15 minutes, if I need a reminder of where it all started and how comfortable it was to be there.

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Entrees

A HOLY DINNER My favorite challahday.

As a conservative Jew, my family is lenient when it comes to religious laws. I can eat crab rolls outside of the house (as long as my mom doesn’t know) and my parents only make us go to temple on the high holidays.

But when it comes to Shabbat, we don’t mess around.

God demands that on the seventh day of the week, we must rest. But every Jewish household interprets “rest” in a different way. For some of my friends, this means shutting off all electricity until Shabbat is completely over, while others sit in front of the TV all day and watch Gossip Girl. It took years to curate my own version of “rest,” but after much trial and error, I figured it out. Rest, for me, is best materialized in the form of a food coma.

Preparations for Shabbat begin on Sunday when, at 7:00 a.m. sharp, my mom and I are out to the chef’s market, a mecca of the freshest and most colorful produce. Our strategy is to divide and conquer — my mom takes the fruit stands and I take the vegetables. At the end of our trip, we catch stares at our overflowing basket.

“If only they knew all this was just for five people,” my mom laughs. The shopping is done and I go about my week in anticipation of the heavenly feast to come.

When Friday morning arrives, I wake up to the sound of high pitched beeps — the bread maker is on and mixing the Challah ingredients. The rest of the morning is spent mixing, waiting, braiding, proofing, egg washing, topping (usually sesame seeds, sometimes we’ll be crazy and use everything-but-the-bagel seasoning) and

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then baking. The whole process takes around five hours, but it’s all worth it when the fragrance of fresh challah dough wafts through my house.

One would imagine that prepping a Shabbat feast is an overwhelming activity, but my mom has it down to a science. Meanwhile, I’m shvitzing, trying to keep up with all the chopping and peeling, and praying to one day graduate from sous chef to co-chef.

When we start cooking, my mom’s main goal is efficiency. We begin by preparing the vegetables for the salad.

Thinly sliced, the veggies are placed in the fridge and covered with a damp paper towel, ensuring they keep their moisture as we proceed with our other dishes. The rest of the process goes by fast — we make the dressing,

“it’s all worth it when the fragrance of fresh challah dough wafts through my house.”

Entrees

Story and photos by Dahlia Trilling Design by Aviva Bechky season the vegetables before grilling and prepare for the main course.

The menu changes depending on my mom’s mood. Sometimes she’ll stick with the classics — a beautifully roasted chicken with jammy onions — and occasionally, she’ll go rogue with a halibut ceviche or lentil daal.

At 4:40 p.m., the challah is out, veggies are ready for grilling and now the focus is on the main course and setting the table. A Shabbat table, aside from the food, is the most important element of the night.

Three cups of grape juice (we’re not big wine drinkers), challah, a stack of kippot and two Shabbat candles lie atop a white table cloth. It’s classic yet elegant.

When 5:30 p.m. comes around, I assemble the salad by taking out the vegetables, throwing in some garbanzo beans and toasting walnuts as a garnish. When the salad is ready and the vegetables are grilled, I stand in the kitchen, watching my mom plate her masterpiece. Simultaneously, I pick at the salad, slyly sneaking

carrots and cucumbers into my mouth.

Finally, it’s 6:00 p.m., the moment I’ve been waiting for all week.

When my mom gives me the nod, I frantically alert the family to come to the table. “DINNER IS READY! HURRY!” When we’re all gathered, my mom says a little spiel and lights the candles, welcoming in Shabbat.

My dad takes the blessing over the juice, joking that he’s “wasted” after the first sip. They bless me and my siblings and we all join in for the challah — a moment to appreciate each other and our customs.

Finally, my mom and I unveil our colorful, aromatic dishes, yielding a gasp from the family. As we dig in, we can’t help but revel in the beauty and complexity of each dish. Flavorful, umami, perfectly citrusy — just “insane,” as my family repeatedly says.

When dinner is over, I’m ready to observe Shabbat. I rest after the day of preparation, nurse my food baby and reflect on how much I love this weekly tradition — our special holy dinner.

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WORD LIST WORD LIST: CAVATAPPI FARFALLE FETUCCINI FUSILLI

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ORZO RAVIOLI RIGATONI TAGLIATELLE

TORTELLINI VERMICELLI ZITTI

G U I W I W Q Q K M G M K N C J J Q V J O H D

P O A K P S B N F F W E Y K W O D H P F

I R R V Q C V D M A Q P T Y J N

K E K A V F Q H L F

Desserts

Pasta in Luca: More than a typical Italian dish A cute movie with a very important message. Spoilers ahead!

By Anthony Xie, Designed by Wendy Zhu

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ixar’s Luca is a heartwarming story about making friends, finding community and eating pasta. It details the journey of two sea monsters, Luca and Alberto, who dream of travelling the world in a Vespa. They join forces with an energetic girl, Giulia, to win a race and earn the money they need to buy the object of their desire. While pasta seems to just be a nod to Italian culture in the movie, it also serves as a reminder of food’s social importance.

When Luca and Alberto first arrive in Portorosso, they’re quite awkward. At Giulia’s house, they eat trenette al pesto with their hands, much to her and her father’s confusion. Despite this, their meal together leads to a conversation that convinces Giulia’s father to give them money for the race.

Even if we aren’t fully aware of it, eating with people isn’t a mundane activity. It can tell us a lot about a person, such as where they’re from and their cultural background. In this case, Luca and Alberto’s mannerisms implied that they aren’t from the area, and similarly, seeing people share food or talk noisily while eating can tell us about the environment in which they were raised. Their meal also created a comfortable atmosphere that catalyzed a conversation even though they were strangers. In my experience, I’ve almost never eaten a meal without talking to the people I’m eating with.

The big race that brings the town of Portorosso together is a quasi triathlon consisting of swimming, biking and eating pasta. Mixing traditional athletic events with pasta eating may seem silly, but it also implies that the social connection that comes from sports can also come from a meal. Indeed, as the trio trains for the race, we see a montage of them eating pasta, riding bikes and practicing swimming, becoming much

“Food is a powerful tool through which people can become acquainted, learn about one another and strengthen friendships.” closer as a result. During the race, the townspeople remain energetic and rowdy when the competitors begin eating.

Towards the end of the movie, the townspeople celebrate Luca, Alberto and Giulia as winners of the race by, unsurprisingly, eating pasta. As the camera pans around the scene, we see that Luca’s parents are eating with their hands in a sea of people using forks, much like Luca and Alberto did when they first arrived at Portorosso. However, instead of being judgemental, the townspeople are unphased, which reflects that they’ve become more accepting of how different people eat. Not only can food tell us about someone’s background, but it can also encourage us to confront our biases.

As a busy college student, I squeeze many of my meals in during breaks between study sessions and classes. In these situations, I can sometimes forget that food isn’t just sustenance; when I do get to eat with others, I’m reminded of how important sharing a meal can be. Luca perfectly reflects that food is a powerful tool through which people can become acquainted, learn about one another and strengthen friendships.

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imPASTA 0 syndrome Desserts

By Allie Gold, Alexia Kadota-Browner and Charlotte Newman Designed by Gretchen Raedle

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PHOTO BY CHARLOTTE NEWMAN

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Desserts

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Desserts

A conversation with my Italianborn grandmother about pasta She’s shaped the recipes I’ve come to know and love.

By Celine Macura, Designed by Wendy Zhu

L

ike many Italian grandmothers, Grandma Rae is famous for her red sauce. On holidays, my cousins and I fight spoon and fork for a heaping serving of her meatballs and Gemelli. It’s a recipe we’ve been trying to pin down since our first taste, but it isn’t measured in cups or reason. Instead, it’s measured in pure intuition.

At 80-years-old, Grandma Rae has the cooking — and life — experiences that I thought made her the overall authority on all things pasta.

However, when I sat down to speak with her about cooking, something she spends hours a day doing, it quickly became clear that I was chasing rules and absolutes she simply didn’t live by. For Grandma Rae, it’s more about the art of cooking than the science and measurements behind it.

Growing up in a town outside of Naples, Italy, my grandmother and her family lived entirely off the land. They sourced their vegetables, meat and flour from their farm a few miles away. After the Second World War, pasta became hard to find and was regarded as a luxury food reserved for guests and special occasions. But for my grandmother and her family, pasta remained a staple. Not because they were wealthy or particularly fancy, but because their own matriarch, also named Grandma Rafaella, made them freshly rolled noodles out of flour and water on their dinner table. She threw them into the big steel pot that sat above the open flame in the fireplace, and served them with sauce and vegetables from the recent harvest.

Without any refrigerator, these noodles were to be served immediately. While we now have several techniques for separating flour, back then, they only used one, which meant all their pasta was what we now consider whole wheat.

Now, in a time when life is so different, flavors and spices remain the same. However, after over 60 years living in New York, Grandma Rae simplified and Americanized her pasta making technique. Homemade pasta? With flour sprinkled across the floor and hours of hard work? She prefers to skip the mess and go with a boxed recipe. The shape? For the everyday meal, it doesn’t seem to matter to her. Pasta is pasta, and it gets the job done as shells or spaghetti.

By the end of our conversation, I still felt like her rules were ambiguous. How could I follow a recipe that was constantly changing and had never been written down? But the more I considered it, I realized Grandma Rae’s recipes are less calculated than I first thought. They’re guided by the people she loves — the people she cooks for.

For my sister and cousin who are gluten-free, Grandma Rae whips up separate batches so they too can indulge in her famous dishes. For my grandfather, to whom she has been married for 60 years, she boils the pasta past al dente because he has found chewing more difficult with age.

So no, there’s no rule on which tomato to use or how heavily to season the sauce. But that does not mean Grandma Rae’s dishes were created by chance or without any rhyme or reason. They were made with the purpose of bringing us together, and guided by the adapting needs and wants of the people eating them. For a family chef, it seems it’s less about what you put on the table and more about the people who gather around it.

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PHOTOS BY CELINE MACURA