Spoon Magazine Spring 2023

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Spring 2023

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

LIGHTS. CAMERA. ACTION!

We’re rolling out the red carpet for Spoon’s 2023 Spring Magazine.

An ode to Old Hollywood and newly-minted trends, “As Seen on Screen” celebrates the culinary masterpieces to have graced movies and TV. From Pop-Tart-filled spaghetti to Jack Sparrow-inspired seafood, our writers channeled pop culture to bring these delectable cinematic moments to life.

Rewatching beloved films and episodes emphasized our collective trove of shared references — a common language we got to explore in the kitchen. Be it “Ratatouille,” “Chopped” baskets or celebrity-approved salads, there was no shortage of on screen snippets to foster our communal connection. As you

flip through nostalgic reviews and modern recipes, we hope you too find pop culture content to relate to. So, grab your remote and toque blanche, and whip up a dish Remy would be proud of.

Never forks,

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Sweeping the Nation CELEBRITY MEALS

MEAL COLLABORATIONS ARE taking fast food by storm. Burger giants and drink chains are harnessing pop culture to attract a younger demographic of eaters. The new wave of mega-star partnerships focuses on social media influencers and renowned music stars, allowing Gen Zers to support their favorite celebrities in a cheap and easy way.

The first celebrity meal collaboration started in 1992, when McDonald’s launched its Michael Jordan-inspired sandwich: The McJordan. A Quarter Pounder with American cheese, bacon, mustard, pickles, onions and barbecue sauce, Chicago Bulls fanatics and MJ fans lined up to eat like the “greatest basketball player of all time.”

Fast forward to September, 2020, McDonald’s jumpstarted a series of unprecedented collaborations with rap star, Travis Scott. While the McJordan was merely a featured menu item, McDonald’s took the Travis Scott meal to the next level, introducing merch drops, charity initiatives and extensive social media promotions.

Scott’s order consisted of a Quarter Pounder with Sprite and fries, and barbeque sauce for dipping. The combo saw colossal sales, enough reason for McDonald’s to invest in more collabs.

McDonald’s went on to create the J Balvin Meal complete with an Oreo McFlurry, the BTS Meal and the Saweetie Meal, which featured a special “Saweetie ‘N Sour” sauce. A 12-days-ofdeals menu featuring Mariah Carey emerged for the holiday season and the brand marked Valentine’s Day with a Cardi B and Offset meal.

Other chains quickly joined in the celebrity endorsement train. Charli D’amelio’s Dunkin’ Cold Brew, Megan Thee Stallion’s Popeyes “Hottie Sauce”, Kentucky native Jack Harlow’s KFC meal, Emma Chamberlain’s CAVA bowl and Justin Beiber’s partnership with Tim Hortons were all instrumental in elevating a brand’s name.

Modern celebrity partnerships largely cater to the Gen Z population, proving the power of social media as a marketing tool. Massively famous stars on apps like TikTok and Instagram have new ways of reaching a wider audience. Gone are the days of TV ads, as fast food turns to social media to engage fans at an incredibly efficient rate.

Charli D’Amelio boasts nearly 150.4 million followers on TikTok, a majority of them among the Gen Z and Millennial audience. Following D’Amelio’s announcement of her newly available drink “The Charli,” the Dunkin’ app reached recordbreaking figures in their daily activity and earnings.

Even D’Amelio’s unsponsored content featuring Dunkin’ products — her self-proclaimed reliance is a fact of life — gives the company nearly 300 million views of free advertising. For the Massachusettsbased brand, the collaboration was amazingingly simple: Dunkin’ simply took an existing item on the menu and marketed it for a younger crowd.

Critics argue that associating celebrities with fast food could have negative health impacts on impressionable teens. Drawing huge crowds to burger chains is good for business, but not at the cost of consuming fatty foods. As a way of wielding their influence for good, it has been suggested that companies create better-for-you products to be included in partnership deals.

Nonetheless, celebrity partnerships are here to stay. While details of celebrity and company earnings often remain undisclosed, the strategy is undoubtedly successful. Perhaps future partnerships will feature your own celebrity obsession, allowing you to indulge just like a star.

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story by emily chow and mia costa design by kelly meng illustrations by gretchen raedle and catherine erickson The secret to food marketing is star-studded

CHOP OR

Which cooking shows could a college sophomore win?

IF THERE IS one thing I love, it’s a cooking show. Nothing gets my heart racing like a “Chopped” contestant rushing to plate their appetizer with five seconds to spare, nor do I experience more joy than hearing Gordon Ramsey hurl insults across the “MasterChef” kitchen.

The countless hours watching amateur and elite chefs chop, concoct and cry, make me pretty confident in my own ability to win a couple of shows. My qualifications, you might ask? I love food, I occasionally cook dinner for my family and I ran a baking Instagram account for a year. It may not be training from Le Cordon Bleu, but I think I’m ready (or not) to take on Bobby Flay.

FOR THOSE UNFAMILIAR with Alton Brown’s masterpiece of a program, “Cutthroat Kitchen” pits contests against each other in the face of increasingly absurd obstacles as they jockey for a $25,000 prize. Chefs spend money to sabotage fellow contestants, and no circumstance is off the table. There are an endless number of reasons why I would eat this show up, starting with, I’m incredible at spending money (econ major), and thanks to my older brother, I can trash talk like nobody’s business.

VERDICT

I’m the most cutthroat chef Food Network has ever seen

ABOVE ALL, MY greatest skill in life is using my mom’s credit card at Whole Foods. For a frozen food connoisseur and elite college shopper like myself, Fieri’s fast-paced competition would be nothing more than a casual Sunday afternoon. Not only would I annihilate all three challenge rounds, Fieri would wish he never created a bonus round. Two minutes to find five grocery items? Is that supposed to be hard?

VERDICT

Take me to Flavortown and crown me the champ

ON ONE HAND, baking is already my forte in the kitchen and “The Great British Bake Off” contestants get months to prepare. On the other hand, the show is known for the bakers’ adorable British accents and positive attitudes. I have neither of these attributes.

VERDICT

Beloved by fans, maybe not by the judges

THERE IS ONE secret to winning “Chopped”: do not use the ice cream machine. The only caveat in my path to success would be making it to the dessert round, but if I can survive the salad bar in Sarge, I can survive a mystery basket with pig testicles.

VERDICT

chopped champion

VERDICT

Flop

WHILE I AM an extremely talented chef, “Beat Bobby Flay” is rigged. The man has won 65% of his episodes, a number that can’t possibly be attributed to pure culinary genius. I overcame the statistical odds of getting into Northwestern, but I will not be beating Bobby Flay.

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story by jess bradford design by sydney newton

story by cleo kanter and betsy winick

The Rise of Mat cha

The growing popularity of Japan’s healthy green tea

MATCHA IS A superfood built for a busy lifestyle. College students in need of a quick caffeine fix should look no further than this easy, green pick-me-up. Fuel up and promote healing with the simple sipping experience.

A powdered green tea from Japan, matcha dates back to the 12th century. Though traditionally used in ceremonial tea services, matcha is now increasingly popular in the United States among influencers and celebrities, who advertise it as a better alternative to coffee.

While typical green tea uses only a portion of the entire leaf, matcha is composed of the entire plant ground into a fine powder.

The result is a tea highly concentrated with nutrients and antioxidants, offering consumers additional health benefits. Decreased oxidative stress and inflammation prevention from catechins, cellular damage prevention from epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) and relation promotion from L-theanine are all upsides of the powdered drink. Matcha also cuts down the negative effects of caffeine like the jitters and caffeine crashes, making it a more sustainable and enjoyable energy booster.

Preparing morning (or afternoon) matcha starts with combining a quarter sized scoop of the fine powder with hot water, and whisking the two together into a foamy green mixture. Mainstream matcha often boasts a savory flavor, while high-quality and ceremonial grade matcha tastes slightly sweet and lower quality product tastes bitter. The tea can be made according to consumer preference, hot or iced, or with a choice of milk.

Despite centuries of whisking, matcha only recently gained traction in the U.S. caffeine scene once systems for producing and importing the product expanded.

Gwyneth Paltrow, Kourtney Kardashian, Brad Pitt, Drake and

Jennifer Aniston are vocal supporters of matcha, often proclaiming their personal love for the product as a way of connecting with their fanbase. Emma Chamberlain even went as far to launch her own matcha company.

Now, nearly every coffee shop sells matcha products, the list of green “specialty drinks” a testament to its popularity. Combining the tea with sweet syrups, bubble tea or flavored milks makes for a wide array of a wide array of possibilities.

Founder and CEO of LA based matcha company Nekohama Max Ando, said the percentage of matcha and tea orders across U.S. cafes in major cities has grown to approximately 15 to 20 percent of all coffee shop orders.

“It’s only growing,” Ando said. “It’s taking market share from coffee and also attracts a different kind of audience.”

The largest benefit of consuming matcha instead of a college kid’s go-to

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energy drink or coffee are stable caffeine levels. Matcha drinkers experience a prolonged feeling of awakeness throughout the day, rather than a buzzing surge of caffeine energy.

Matcha’s growing footprint on health and wellness trends is far from over. Companies like Nekohama are in the midst of experimenting with products using matcha powder outside the realm of drinks. Expect matcha chocolates, nut butters, cookies and candies in the near future, in places where they aren’t already offered.

Ando recommends implementing the daily routine of making and drinking matcha, especially for college students with busy lifestyles. Not only does the preparation process add a structured, healthy habit to a stacked schedule, it helps cut down the health risks associated with high stress levels and a typical cup of joe.

The sooner you switch to matcha, the easier it will be to craft your preferred order. While our go-to version of the tea is over ice with a splash of almond milk, the options are endless. Whatever you ultimately decide, you are sure to love it so matcha.

Make Matcha at Home

Steps for making an iced matcha latte at home

In a bowl, combine 2 tsp of matcha with 2 oz of hot water

Whisk vigorously with bamboo whisk until frothy

1. 2.

OPTIONAL: to sweeten matcha, pour honey to taste in bowl and mix again

3. 4.

Combine matcha mixture with one cup of any milk of your choice on ice

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design by catherine erickson photos by jacqueline chui

Best Served Cold Topped with a Cherry &

The scoop on Chicago’s Oscar-worthy milkshakes

THERE IS NOTHING better than a milkshake to cool down a hot summer day. Served with a straw, milkshakes are more than a quintessential part of summer, but an essential aspect of Golden Age cinema. Diners were common settings for movies like “Grease” and “Pulp Fiction”; sitting in a booth just screams classic Hollywood. The Windy City is not to be forgotten for its milkshake game. These five Chicago joints are blending up epic versions of Mia Wallace’s favorite beverage.

SWEET’S IN LAKE Forest, IL channels the child-like wonder depicted by the 1970 film “Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,” by bringing a candy heaven to real life. The Blue Moon milkshake would be a favorite of Violet Beauregarde, who turns herself into a blueberry from chewing gum. The smooth, creamy consistency is only rivaled by its unique flavor. While it won’t turn you into a blue, human-sized balloon, it’s sure to ignite a satisfied awe.

ELEVEN CITY DINER, is one of the most well-preserved diners in Chicago. Along the walls of the S. Wabash locale are booths with neon signs. The music transports you to George’s 50’s Diner from “Another Cinderella Story” with Hillary Duff and Chad Michael Murry. The Mint Chip milkshake arrived in a classic tall glass cup, topped with whipped cream, a cherry and a pink wafer. Eleven City’s shake had a slightly thinner consistency, with a subtle hint of mint and chocolate chips for added crunch.

HOMER’S RESTAURANT AND Ice Cream, located in Wilmette, IL, is one of the oldest diner-like establishments near Evanston with modernized service and vintage charm. Although the milkshakes no longer come in tall glasses, there still is nostalgia to be felt. One of their most popular offerings is Cookies and Cream shake made with their homemade ice cream. An excellent balance between a thick base and just the right amount of crunch of Oreo, Homer’s concoction would be right at home in Luke’s Diner from “Gilmore Girls,” with the Wilmette store’s fun-loving and personable staff.

IF YOU CAN’T visit Scoops Ahoy, the ice cream shop from the Netflix hit series “Stranger Things,” head to Graeter’s Ice Cream Shop in Winnetka, IL. Their retro 80s design would be perfect for the Duffer Brothers. Their bestseller is a Black Raspberry Chocolate Chip thanks to the creamy, thick consistency. Chocolate chunks are soft within the milkshake and add sweetness to every sip.

DANIEL HILLARD FROM “Mrs. Doubtfire” finds comfort in a chocolate milkshake and Ghirardelli’s chocolate milkshake helped me to realize why. Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop is a renowned chocolate brand with a brick and mortar in Chicago. Their rich chocolate is infused into every milkshake, creating a truly decadent, full-bodied sip. The chocolate is incredibly smooth with almost a liquid consistency, making it resemble a frozen hot chocolate. It is the ultimate cocoa lover’s dream.

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story and photos by salma alsikafi

SALAD

Ingredients

1 cup quinoa (or bulgur)

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon kosher sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1 English cucumber, chopped

15 oz can of chickpeas

1/3 cup diced red onion

1/2 cup fresh mint, chopped

1/2 cup fresh parsley, chopped

1/2 cup pistachios, chopped

1/2 cup feta

STEP 1 PREP

Gather your ingredients and miseen-place — a fancy way of saying prep your station. This will make the chopping and assembly steps seamless.

STEP 4 CHOP

Get chopping! Cut the cucumber into half-moons and dice the red onion. Chop parsley, mint and pistachios coarsely or finely. Drain, rinse and dry the chickpeas.

A TRENDSETTER IN FASHION, hair styles and now food, Jennifer Aniston’s chopped salad dominated TikTok for weeks. Its simplicity, freshness, and (of course) celeb endorsement were all part of the veggiepacked appeal. Legend has it, Aniston ate this salad every day for ten years on the set of the hit TV show “Friends,” though she since debunked the myth.

It is easy to see why the A-list actress would whip it up so frequently: the salad is tangy, crunchy, fresh and filling. Her recipe is also easily adaptable based on protein preferences, ingredient ratios or even a different dressing. The original version is just a template for you to get creative!

STEP 2 GRAINS

Cook your grain of choice according to the package instructions. I opted for microwaveable packets of quinoa, but bulgur or other hearty grains work well too.

STEP 5 MIX

Thoroughly toss all the ingredients, including feta, in a large bowl. I prefer a lightly dressed salad, but ended up using all the lemon mixture.

Note: If you want to add leafy greens (I recommend arugula), double the dressing.

STEP 3 DRESSING

For the dressing, combine lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper in a mason jar or sealable container. Shake vigorously, allowing the oil and lemon juice to emulsify. Dip a pinky in and adjust seasonings to taste.

STEP 6 CHOW

Taste your creation and adjust seasonings. If you’re like me, add a concerning amount of feta and pretend you’re on the famous “Friends” couch with Rachel, Ross and co.

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design by nadia bidarian photos by libby raymond

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A TOAST TO TOAST

Brunch staple or burnt out, which fancy toasts are worth the hype?

POP CULTURE HAS brought about new fun and exciting food staples, among them the infamous avocado toast. Following in the footsteps of spreadtopped bread, cottage cheese toast is trending, sweet toasts are offered at cafes across the country and ricotta is a menu necessity. Toast is now a food group of its own.

Despite the infatuation, do these carb-creations really deserve their prominent spot on the brunch menu? We set out to determine which sensationalized toasts are actually worth the hype.

We’ll be honest, we too fell victim to the avocado toast craze back in the 2010s. It still remains a constant staple in both of our diets. As much as we love a great toast, the amount of fresh takes on the original can be overwhelming. Smashed avocado with flaky sea salt is no longer all the rage, the people demand more. Our research instead focused on more adventurous toast options (yes, we’re including French toast) served near campus to test their ability to outdo the classics.

As an easy first stop, we ventured to Grove Street’s Cupitol for a childhood favorite: French toast! Even with the simplicity, we were dreaming about this French toast days after eating it. From the eggbattered bread to the unbeatable cinnamon-sugar combination, this toast had a cozy, sweet kick that made us question anyone’s desire to change a perfectly good thing. There is certainly pizzazz in adding ricotta, caramel or any other non-traditional ingredients, but Cupitol’s version reminded us of how consistency is key and that you can never go wrong with a classic.

Cupitol’s extensive menu also gave a chance to branch out into the savory toast sector. We ordered their Vegan Avocado Toast, but added an egg. The just-ripe avocado combined beautifully with the salty pesto, fresh tomatoes balanced out the heavier elements and the made-to-order egg created an explosion of rich flavor with every bite. The gooey egg poured over the smooth avocado and the multigrain bread brought even more texture to the staple dish. Between the nutty pesto and decadent yolk, it was an elevated approach to a common brunch offering.

Hungry for more, we made our way

to our next location, Hometown Coffee & Juice. The delightfully upscale café boasts an entire section of the menu dedicated to toast, ranging from sweet to savory. We decided to bite. Neither option was a let down.

The Tuna & Avo Toast, dressed with tomatoes and capers, was a blend between two classic sandwich spreads. Creamy tuna and avocado plus the crunch of the toasted multigrain bread made for a meld of textures, and the drizzle of olive oil added points for presentation.

On the sweet side, we went for the Apple Almond Toast. Multigrain bread coated with almond butter, topped with sliced apples, walnuts and cinnamon was a pleasant change in course from the traditional toast trend. It is unclear what kind of almond butter Hometown uses for their rendition, but once we find out, it is at the top of our grocery list. The crispy granny smith apple and walnuts alongside the toasted sourdough came together in an extra crunchy bite. Our only qualm: the apples and walnuts kept falling off the bread, but the flavor made the experience worth it.

Loaded with toast and toppings, we came to a conclusion: Innovative new toasts are great, so long as they keep good ingredients and simple elements in mind. We hit the jackpot with Hometown, though

JULIA CHILD WITHOUT THE BUTTER JULIA CHILD WITHOUT THE BUTTER

A meat-free version of Beef Bourguignon

AN AMATEUR COOK and a cultural icon, Nora Ephron’s biographical film “Julie & Julia” contrasts the lives of two foodobsessed women as they explore flavor, failure and a love of butter at the onset of their careers.

Amy Adams portrays Julie Powell, a Queens-based blogger determined to tackle all 524 recipes in Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” in 365 days. Bouncing between the early 2000s and 1950s Paris, we see Child, played by Meryl Streep, struggle to publish the book that would alter American eating forever and catapult her to the ranks of household names. Whether chopping onions or deboning a duck, Powell and Child find newfound purpose in the meals they make (most often enjoyed by their loving husbands) and defy expectations of their respective capabilities. Clips of crave-worthy concoctions from chocolate ganache, homemade hollandaise and bubbling stews tie the delightfully charming feature together, among them, one of Child’s most noteworthy recipes: Beef Bourguignon.

A dish so spectacular Powell repeatedly insists on its ability to “make everything alright,” the

characters claim, “you can never have too much butter,” but the adage is certainly unfit for a vegan diet. With a few quick swaps — mushrooms for meat, olive oil instead of the aforementioned butter and tamari for umami flavor — the show-stopping stew is accessible to all. The difference of

vegetable and broth just as hearty as its animal-based counterpart. Julia herself may have scoffed at a butter-free Bourguignon, but with a sprig of thyme and the right amount of seasoning, she too would declare her signature “Bon Appétit!” upon first bite.

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VEGAN BOURGUIGNON RECIPE

- 16 oz cremini mushrooms

- 1/2 large white onion

- 3 large carrots

- 6 cloves garlic

- 2 tbsp olive oil

- 2 tbsp tomato paste

- 1/2 tbsp tamari or soy sauce

- 4-5 sprigs fresh thyme plus more for garnish

- 3/4 cup vegetable broth

- 3/4 cup red wine

- 1 tbsp cornstarch

- 2-3 tbsp water

- 1-2 tsp garlic powder

- 1 tsp dried thyme

- 1 tsp dried oregano

- 1 tsp dried parsley

- Salt and Pepper to taste

PREPARATION

1. In a large pot, warm olive oil over medium heat. Add in diced onion and chopped garlic and cook for 3-5 minutes, stirring regularly until onion is translucent.

2. Add the peeled and diced carrots, cook for another 2-3 minutes.

3. To the pot, add sliced mushrooms, dried herbs, garlic powder, tamari and tomato paste. Stir to combine, adding in extra olive oil if necessary.

4. Once the vegetables are cooked down slightly, switch heat to medium low and add in the vegetable broth, red wine and sprigs of fresh thyme. Make sure the vegetables are submerged in the liquid. Cook for 5 mins.

5. In a separate cup, combine cornstarch and water until fully dissolved. Add the slurry to the vegetable mixture and cook on low for 20-25 minutes until sauce thickens, stirring occasionally.

6. Adjust seasoning and add salt and pepper to taste.

7. Top with thyme and serve with your preferred carbohydrate.

2023

Turning Fiction into Food

“Binging with Babish” brings on screen delights to life

ANDREW REA ESTABLISHED a name for himself by making famous on screen foods a reality. Inspired by his love of film, TV and culinary exploration, Rea’s YouTube channel “Babish Culinary Universe’’ and his flagship cooking series “Binging with Babish” champion edible experimentation and delicious pop culture entertainment.

Rea, better known as Babish to his 10 million subscribers, is the mastermind behind the recreation of on screen culinary classics. Despite the popularity of his channel five years in the making,

Rea actually began creating videos by accident. With a background in media, he created his first video messing around with his film equipment while making a smoothie.

In fact, Rea isn’t a professional chef at all; he is entirely self taught, guided in the kitchen by the tips and tricks he learned from his late mother as a young boy. One of the reasons why Rea is drawn to cooking is because each dish allows him to feel close to his mother.

After the smoothie incident and Youtube stardom,

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story by emily chow and julia schnipper
youtube.com/watch
Binging with Babish
YouTube
Binging with Babish

Rea now dedicates all of his time to the channel. He plans, preps and edits his videos at his home in Brooklyn, New York.

Despite movies and TV shows being the entire premise of Rea’s channel, he does not have a lot of free time for movies, and actually watches very few of them. Instead, he gets most of his ideas from his fans. Some of their suggestions have led him to discover his favorite shows like “Rick and Morty” and “Brooklyn Nine-Nine,” along with plenty of foods to try.

“Binging with Babish” has since expanded beyond an internet sensation with merchandise, cookbooks and Rea’s very own cookware line. The home cook and content connoisseur is constantly creating new recipes for people to try. Rea hopes to continue the brand’s growth with a brick and mortar location. His dream: an Airbnb in Upstate New York dubbed “Bed and Babish.” In the meantime, fans can enjoy his two published cookbooks and another on the way.

Each week, Babish graces the screen with a new culinary delight. While pop culture is certainly a focus, his culinary universe is all inclusive. “Basics with Babish” is dedicated to understanding basic cooking styles and techniques; “Botched with Babish” depicts Rea’s efforts to redeem his food fails and right culinary wrongs. In collaboration with other chefs, “Anime with Alvin Zhou” focuses solely on recreating Anime dishes in real life.

Rea’s sharp 4K video style takes on a unique format where only his hands and torso are visible in frame. This tactic effectively spotlights his culinary technique and the food he is preparing without drawing away the viewer’s attention. His step-by-step instructions provide a humorously entertaining and easy to follow guide on wellknown meals.

In a world of ever-evolving trends and new shows, Babish frequently brainstorms his ideas through fan and viewer comments. His mostwatched dishes include Ratatouille from Disney Pixar’s “Ratatouille,” Michael Scott’s pretzel from “The Office” and the Krabby Patty Supreme from “Spongebob Squarepants.” Ram-don from “Parasite” also makes an appearance, along with Room Service Beef-Wellington from “Mad Men.” Rea taps his audience’s imagination as he replicates popular foods they have always wanted to try from movies or TV shows.

A passion for education and experimentation in the culinary arts, paired with an undying love of film, are all part of Babish’s brand that have attracted a massive following. By framing cooking as a hobby meant to be fun instead of a mundane daily activity, Rea encourages more people to explore their creativity. He reminds viewers that not everyone needs to go to culinary school to make food. “Binging with Babish” puts truth behind the words of Ratatoille’s chef Auguste Gusteau: “Anyone can cook.” If Rea can make Wellington and whip up pastries, so can you.

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Pirates of the Caribbean

Seafood Paella

A FORMER NORTHWESTERN undergraduate student, personal chef Robert Vega works tirelessly to serve inventive dishes to the Kappa Delta sorority. Once studying linguistics, Vega dropped out to pursue his true calling: the culinary arts. He switched gears and went on to earn an Associates Degree in Applied Sciences and Chef Training from Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts Chicago. Vega took his expertise to The Dock at Montrose Beach working as a kitchen manager, the Ralph Lauren Restaurant and served as Sous Chef for Lux Bar & Grill. In 2022, he returned to his roots to take on cooking at the University. His daily menus frequently feature foods tied to famous pop culture references.

Vega said the inspiration for his “Pirates of the Caribbean” paella came from his formal training as a chef in Sevilla, Spain. Paella itself originated in the city of Valencia, and is the country’s national dish. It gets its name from the Valencian word for frying pan, and is usually served in a round, shallow pan specially designed for paella, with short handles on either side. Though the recipe requires some technique and can be difficult to master, Vega loves paella for its many variations and how it wows every time.

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APPETIZER
Kappa Delta Chef Robert Vega channels his inner Jack Sparrow

SEAFOOD PAELLA

Prep time: 20-25 mins

Cook time: 20-25 mins

ingredients recipe

Salmoreta (Sofrito - blended mix of aromatics)

2 tomatoes

½ Spanish or white onion

1 ½ ñora peppers

4 cloves garlic

½ tsp paprika

½ tsp salt

Pinch of parsley

Paella

1 part bomba rice (1-1.5 cups)

3 parts chicken or fish stock (3-5 cups)

2-3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

design by isabelle hauf-pisoni

1. Add Salmoreta ingredients into a medium saucepan and blend into a puree over medium heat.

2. Cook mussels and set aside until needed.

3. In a separate pot, add stock and saffron. Bring to a boil until a bright yellow color. Allow to simmer until needed.

4. Add oil to a large paella pan or wide frying pan. Saute garlic, diced peppers and onions on medium heat until translucent, about 5 minutes.

5. Cut chicken into bite sized pieces and add to the pan. Cook until browned.

6. Add the heated Salmoreta mixture and diced tomatoes along with the meat and aromatics.

7. Once the chicken is cooked through, begin adding the saffroninfused stock and bring to a simmer. Saffron is strong and potent so use sparingly when flavoring.

Add the bomba rice, making sure not to stir too frequently. The bottom of the pan will develop a socarrat, a crispy, burnt layer that adds extra flavor. Keep on low to medium heat.

Once the liquid has reduced, add parsley, lemon wedges and

Enjoy in front of your favorite Jack Sparrow movie and explore

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Gordon Gordon

Celebrity chefs go head-to-head for Chicago’s best burger

SOMETIMES, ALL YOU need is a good hamburger. As one of the world’s food capitals, Chicago boasts plenty of spots to satisfy this allAmerican appetite that patty-lovers travel far and wide to enjoy.

Celebrity chef and Michelin-star awardee Gordon Ramsay expanded his empire to include a second burger restaurant in the Windy City in December 2021. The notoriously critical star plans to film an episode of his Food Network show “Hell’s Kitchen” in one of his favorite bustling neighborhoods, River North.

On the other non competitive side of the Food Network is “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives,” where the ultra-famous Guy Fieri convinces viewers to try a newfound hole-inthe-wall restaurant.

Two wildly different TV personalities, we tried both Ramsay’s burger and one of Fieri’s top ranking sandwiches to see who really knows their stuff when it comes to Chicago burgers.

The first stop on our lineup was Gordon Ramsay Burger on the corner of State and Ontario. Ramsay’s presence is in the establishment is omnipresent the second you step in the room, with his life-size portrait on a back wall, framed #3 Bull’s jersey and a United Kingdom flag. The lively sports bar feel and redand-black decor makes for a dinerlike atmosphere.

Ramsay’s signature

Hell’s Kitchen Burger features several cuts of beef, mozzarella, charred jalapeño, roasted tomato and avocado on a golden sesame seed bun. What sets Ramsay’s rendition apart from your typical order is the preparation. The beef patties are generously basted with Charsu butter and caramelized under a flame to add an extra layer of moisture.

The mozzarella paired well with the savory meat, but we concluded a sharp cheddar or American cheese would have melted more favorably on the patty. The “hidden secret” ranch sauce elevated the burger’s flavor composition, complementing the jalapeño’s heat with a cool garlic tang. Each minute detail emphasized Ramsay’s expertise in the kitchen.

Aside from burgers, the menu also features snacks, Hot Dawgs, fries and shakes. We sampled the Elote Street Corn Dip served with blue corn tortilla chips. A squeeze of acidic lime in the dish balanced flavors from the sweet corn, spicy jalapeño’s and creamy cotija cheese. Not to rain on Ramsay’s parade, but to

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Vs. Guy Vs. Guy

elevate the dip, we would have enjoyed the corn charred or whipped.

We also indulged in the shoestring Sweet Potato Fries, which came dusted with powdered sugar and honey aioli and brisket BBQ dips. We made sure to save room for the Sticky Toffee Shake — an ode to Rasmay’s English roots — with Heath Bar bits and fluffy whipped cream to complete the classic burger experience.

To challenge Ramsay’s burger, we selected the home of Guy Fieri’s self-proclaimed favorite burger in Illinois. Avondale’s Kuma’s Corner is no stranger to the sandwich game, having served their burgers since 2005.

The awardwinning joint resembles an average Irish pub outside, but its inside mirrors a dive bar Fieri gravitates towards, with dim lighting and graphic t-shirts, skateboards and skull decorations hanging on the walls.

With 15 burgers named after rock bands, we chose the Famous Kuma, priced at $18.95. We were rewarded with a juicy burger, topped

with Applewood smoked bacon, gooey cheddar cheese, a farm-fresh fried egg, crispy lettuce, tomato and red onion.

Immediately upon digging in, the strong flavor combo hit us in the face. Even as ketchup fanatics, we refrained from masking the burger’s powerful taste with a condiment. A perfectly runny fried egg and melted cheese balanced out the strong, salty beef burger and added moisture.

The thick, juicy patty and smokeysweet bacon combined perfectly with the cheese and egg, creating an umami firework in our mouths and, admittedly, all over our hands. The pretzel bun, however, disappointed with a dry texture — perhaps the other 14 menu options do it better.

Both burgers deserve a spotlight. For a quick mouthwatering bite served with a cold beer and seat at the bar, Kuma’s Corner is the place to be. The messy, juicy, classic burger with a pub ambiance is definitely ideal for a lazy Sunday or special lunch treat. For a night on the town with good food and a little more refinement, head to Gordon Ramsay Burger. The gourmet burger, tasteful sides and impeccable service provide a satisfying dining experience.

In the end, both celebrities have a grasp on the culinary pulse of Chicago. You can’t go wrong with Fieri’s recommended Kuma’s Corner or Ramsay’s own Gordon Ramsay Burger, though we look forward to a rematch as we eat our way through all their offerings.

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design by rachel schlueter photos by ashton arjomand and cole reynolds

CHATGPT:

What happens when AI controls my meals?

MY DIGITAL FOOD DICTATOR

LET ME TELL you about the 24 hours I let ChatGPT dictate my meal plan. I’ll be honest, I was skeptical at first. Never in a million years did I think I would let an AI program choose my food intake for an entire day. How can ChatGPT know what I want to eat when I can’t even decipher my own cravings? I debated whether letting the program guide my culinary skills would be worth it or if I should stick to UberEats. But, in the name of journalism, I gave it a go, and in the end I am glad I did.

Starting off strong, ChatGPT recommended a breakfast burrito for my first meal of the day. I am not usually a breakfast person. I never know what to eat in the morning and by the time I decide, I am running out the door with a granola bar in hand. ChatGPT, however, streamlined my decision-making process and even included a list of ingredients and a recipe to follow. Let me tell you, the burrito was a gamechanger. The combination of crispy chicken sausage, creamy avocado, gooey cheddar cheese,

eggs and fresh pico de gallo was a flavor explosion in my mouth. I felt like a culinary genius just eating it.

For lunch, ChatGPT upped its already-killer game by suggesting a Buddha Bowl with brown rice, roasted sweet potatoes and brussel sprouts, crispy chickpeas, avocado, hummus and tahini dressing. As someone who often opts for boring sandwiches or uninspired salads for lunch, the vibrant bowl was a revelation.

Like the breakfast burrito, the excellence was all in the combination of flavors and textures: the grounded sweetness from the sweet potato, the crispy brussel sprouts, the tahini dressing that tied everything together. Shockingly, the Buddha Bowl was easier to put together than most of my typical mid-day meals. Armed with new recipe knowledge, you’ll never catch me eating a boring lunch again.

My dinner entree featured chicken lettuce wraps — which happen to be one of my favorite

Asian dishes. A coincidence? I think not. The chicken was bursting with hints of ginger and garlic and paired well with the lettuce cups that added a nice crunch. A few of my roommates even joined in on the meal, which ChatGPT graciously accommodated for in its recipe. We may or may not have licked our plates clean…

At the end of the day, putting my diet in the hands of AI made me feel like a Food Network chef, which I am normally far from. I can barely make toast without burning it. Following ChatGPT’s recommendations took the pressure off of meal prep. I was able to enjoy delicious meals I likely would not have thought of making for myself — and I saved money cutting down on deliveries. Who knows, maybe I’ll be running my own Michelinworthy restaurant one day. For now, I’ll stick to letting ChatGPT choose my meals and provide a recipe, because let’s face it, it knows more about food than I ever could.

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story and photos by allie gold design by sydney newton
breakfast: breakfast burrito lunch: buddha bowl dinner: chicken lettuce wraps ***** *** ****

SCORCESE BOLOGNESE

A

recipe for the Iconic “Goodfellas” Sunday Sauce

ONE OF THE most famous moments in mobster gastronomy comes from the prison sauce monologue of Martin Scorsese’s “Goodfellas.” A love letter to

INGREDIENTS

SAUCE

3 cans whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes

6 cloves garlic, peeled

2 medium onions, diced

1 carrot, peeled and minced

2 celery stalks, minced

4 tbsp tomato paste

1 bay leaf

1 sprig rosemary

1 bunch parsley

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1 bottle dry red wine, such as Barolo

RECIPE

SAUCE

MEATBALLS

1 lb ground beef

1 lb ground pork

1 lb ground veal (substitute 1 lb ground beef if unavailable)

2 large eggs

1 cup panko breadcrumbs

2 tbsp garlic powder

2 tbsp dried oregano

1 cup grated Parmigiano

Reggiano cheese

3 tbsp salt

1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper

½ tsp ground nutmeg

MEATBALLS

1. Paulie uses a razor blade in the film to get paper-thin slices of garlic, but a mandolin or sharp knife will do. Carefully, slice the 6 garlic cloves as thinly as possible.

2. Tie bay leaf, parsley and rosemary together using kitchen twine.

3. Heat a large pot over mediumhigh heat and add 1/8 cup of olive oil. Sear meatballs, working in batches, until browned on all sides. Set aside.

4. Add remaining 1/8 cup olive oil in the pot over medium heat. Saute onions, carrot and celery until translucent and starting to brown.

5. Add tomato paste and garlic, stirring often until the garlic is fragrant and the tomato paste is beginning to stick to the bottom of the pan.

6. Deglaze with the full bottle of red wine, making sure to scrape from the bottom of the pan. Simmer over high heat until the liquid has reduced by 1/3 and the alcohol has burned off.

7. Add the bundle of herbs, browned meatballs, and 3 cans of whole tomatoes.

8. Stir to combine, breaking up tomatoes with a wooden spoon.

9. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer over low heat.

Simmer for 2-3 hours with lid ajar, until the sauce is reduced and the meatballs are tender.

10. Serve over pasta with additional Parmigiano Reggiano and a tall glass of red wine.

1. Combine meat, eggs, panko, garlic powder, oregano, Parmigiano Reggiano, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Using your hands, mix well until completely combined.

2. Form balls approximately 1.5 inches in diameter and place on a lined sheet tray. Refrigerate until ready to use.

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story by jon perkins design by kate perez

WRIGLEYVILLE’S NEW DINE-IN movie theater

Alamo Drafthouse is more than an AMC. The N. Clark location features an extensive menu, top-notch cocktails and 32 beers on draft. What distinguishes the Drafthouse from less gourmet competitors is customers can indulge in a full course meal while watching new releases or all-time classics.

Bottomless Popcorn or Loaded Fries make for a light movie snack, while potential dinners include pizzas, sandwiches and salads. Dessert options don’t end with simple concession candies, but Churro Popcorn, Vegan Chocolate Chip Cookies and original milkshakes ranging from Strawberry and Mexican Vanilla to Cookie and Salted Caramel.

Dena Porter, Alamo Drafthouse’s restaurant and theater manager, recommends the “Royal with Cheese” for first-timers and Tarantino fans. A sirloin and chuck blended patty, topped with cheddar cheese, brisket, caramelized onion, lettuce, tomato and lemon-garlic aioli, all held together in a seeded bun, is a must-try. Served with a side of fries and a pickle spear, it’s a hearty choice.

With new movie releases come new menu items for the Drafthouse; the “Bonus Features” menu section lists film-inspired bites. Its newest addition, the “I Want All of You Pretzel” honors Oscar-winning “Everything, Everywhere, All at Once.” A soft pretzel topped with everything bagel seasoning and melted butter with a jalapeño cream cheese dip delivers the message.

Cocktail options channel the pop culture spirit with drinks as seen in classic films. The “Mint Julep” from “The Great Gatsby” is a Jim Beam Bourbon with sugar and mint. Take a trip back to 1967 with the “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” cocktail, “Mississippi Punch” — a mix of Hennessy Cognac, rum, bourbon, lemon and orange.

Some drinks take a modern twist on oldtimers. Order a 1986’s “Top Gun” drink, “The Danger Zone” and get Bourbon, Aperol, Amaro Averna, lemon and grapefruit, or drink to 1998’s “Practical Magic” with a “[Midnight] Margarita” made strong by Tequila Blanco, orange liqueur, agave and lime.

Upon entry, dozens of DVDs, old-school TVs and electronic music welcome both movie and food fanatics alike. The walls are covered in vintage movie posters from releases like “King Kong 2” and “Killer Crocodile.” Stop by the Video Vortex, where customers can rent DVDs and VHSs.

“It’s a fun place to work,” Porter said. “You experience a lot of different things that you normally don’t in movie theaters.”

Over 25 cities have an Alamo Drafthouse, with Chicago tacked onto the list in January 2023. Already drawing customers in the community, Alamo hosted a movie party for “Cocaine Bear” with foam bear claw souvenirs. The theater raised a glass during a Champagne Cinema: “Clueless” Movie Party, with more delectable and entertaining events to come. Tapped into both food and the movie industry, Alamo looks to keep viewers fed, engaged and on their toes.

STARTER story by kate perez
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Up your movie night outing at Wrigleyville’s dine-in theater
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STARTER design by kate perez photos by sulwen ma

Mouth-watering dishes that shaped movie history

Tomato Sauce from “The Godfather” (1972)

WIDELY REGARDED AS one of the greatest movies of all time, this iconic crime film has its fair share of grisly shootings. We’re given a momentary break from the violence when Peter Clemenza, the Corleone family’s calculating hitman, cooks tomato sauce for a table of hungry criminals. His recipe involves oil, garlic, tomatoes, tomato paste, sausage, meatballs, wine and sugar. As Clemenza shows Michael Corleone each ingredient, it’s clear foreshadowing of Michael’s eventual inheritance

Pies from “Waitress” (2007)

THE MOVIE FOLLOWS Jenna’s life as a waitress and pie chef while she tries to escape from her abusive husband and cope with her unintended pregnancy. It features numerous inventive and cleverly-named pies (too many to cover here). The two pies with my favorite names are also the two pies I most want to try: “I Hate My Husband Pie” is made with bittersweet chocolate pudding and “drowned” in caramel; “Pregnant, Miserable, Self-Pitying Loser Pie” has a filling made of “lumpy oatmeal with fruitcake mashed in’’ and then flambéed. This was the last film by “Waitress” writer, director and star Adrienne Shelly, but this movie left a legacy as her most successful film and a testament to her mission of portraying authentic, strong-willed women reckoning with the complexities of new motherhood. The film perfectly straddles the line between quirky comedy and tragic drama, and the Tony-winning musical adaptation further cemented it as the go-to piefilled flick.

of the role as leader and provider of the family, and is mirrored in a later scene when Clemenza teaches Michael how to perform a hit. The vagueness of the actual measurements in the recipe is why you

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Fun fact: Roald Dahl was so unhappy with “Willy Wonka” that it was the last movie adaptation he would approve before his death. He called it “saccharine, sappy and sentimental” — but he was also super racist and antisemitic, so who really cares!

Gumbo from “The Princess and the Frog” (2009)

THIS HEARTY STEW is the official state cuisine of Louisiana, so it’s no surprise Tiana and her father cook it together in their New Orleans home. The dish consists of flavorful stock, meat and/or shellfish, and the so-called “holy trinity” of Cajun and Louisiana Creole cooking: onions, bell peppers and celery. New Orleans’ distinctive and widelyknown food culture was born of these self-contained ethnic groups, which are made up of mixed-race descendants of French and Spanish settlers, West Africans and Native Americans. In the animated Disney film, gumbo symbolizes Tiana’s relationship with her family and the values instilled by her father and her working-class upbringing. Later in the film, Voodoo magician Mama Odie shows Tiana a vision in a pot of gumbo, and thus the dish takes on another role as a symbol of the African diasporic culture that dwells in the streets and bayous of New Orleans.

to change flavors and color as it’s sucked on without ever getting any smaller. The name was co-opted for a Nestlé jawbreaker candy which does have layers of different colors and flavors but, of course, disappears after long enough. The book featured a number of these fictional sweets with supernatural powers, including chocolate robin eggs that hatch in your mouth and chocolate ice cream that never melts. While the 2005 Tim Burton adaptation had a distinctly spookier, otherworldly tone, the 1971 version is goofier, more approachable and, for many, full of childhood nostalgia.

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Ladurée pastries & macarons from “Marie Antoinette” (2006)

SOFIA COPPOLA’S CANDY-COATED revisionist take on the infamous French queen is absolutely bursting with colorful, intricate, mouth-watering pastries. It turns out that they’re from Pâtisserie E. Ladurée, which consequently exploded in popularity after their macarons graced the silver screen. Ladurée now sells over fifteen thousand macarons every day. Macarons themselves are notoriously difficult to make: bakers must achieve a precise texture when whipping egg whites and sugar for meringue filling and expertly pipe the shaving foam-like dough for the cookies. Although the film’s release led many (mostly male) critics to condemn Marie Antoinette as vapid and frilly, modern revisitations have recognized Coppola herself, as a subversive, distinctive storyteller whose dreamy portrayals of young women are as complex as they are rare. I wouldn’t recommend using this 2006 movie to study for your French history class, but it’s a pastelcolored, pastry-filled, Y2K pop-soundtracked festivity not to be missed.

Ratatouille from “Ratatouille” (2007)

THE ONE YOU were all probably waiting for, perhaps the most famous food scene in any movie ever. Ratatouille (the food, not the movie) is a dish of stewed vegetables including tomatoes, garlic, herbs, onion, bell peppers, courgette (the posh French word for zucchini) and aubergine ( French for eggplant). What Remy the rat cooks in the Pixar film is actually a variation on the traditional dish, called Confit Byaldi and features thinly sliced veggies. Thomas Keller, an American celebrity chef who served as a food consultant on the film, developed a version with a tomato pepper sauce and a vinaigrette, which is what appears in the movie.

Brad Lewis, the film’s producer, shadowed Keller in the kitchen for two days to observe the process of making the dish. The result is a mesmerizing cooking scene and an even more memorable moment when the ruthless food critic is transported back to the home-cooked meals of his childhood. It’s a remarkable example of an unassuming dish made world-famous by one of the most beloved Pixar films ever made.

“Chef” (2014)

MANY FOOD JOURNALISTS and critics have commended this film’s accuracy in depicting both the technical skills of cooking and the dynamics of the restaurant industry. This didn’t happen by accident: writer, director and star Jon Favreau committed to making an unpretentious independent film about the reality of being a chef. He trained at culinary school and brought in chef and food truck founder Roy Choi as a consultant and co-producer, shadowing Choi and working with his kitchen crew during pre-production.

In a movie that tracks chef Carl Casper’s journey through several food epicenters of the American south — during which he enjoys and cooks delicacies like Cubano sandwiches in Miami, beignets in New Orleans and smokehouse barbecue in Austin — it might seem weird to focus on a grilled cheese sandwich But, when Carl meticulously constructs what genuinely looks like the world’s best grilled cheese, it’s both a moment of bonding between him and his son and a testament to Favreau’s dedication to creating an authentic and literally mouth-watering portrait of a Chef.

Fun fact: The company Kraft used “Ratatouille” to inspire its marketing team to create a product that evokes personal experience and makes people want to come back again and again.

2023 26 ENTREE

OF POPCORN POP THE INTO WORLD

The healthy pop-ssibilities of an iconic movie snack

POPCORN POPS UP everywhere. No trip to the movies is complete without a bag of the buttery, salted snack. The versatile kernel is a grab-and-go food for any occasion — be it, carnivals, sports games or at home.

The invention of the popcorn machine in the late 19th century created an easy and efficient way to mass produce the product. When movie theaters gained traction in the early 1900s, the new technology made popcorn an ideal snack to sell to moviegoers. The signature popping sounds and unmistakable smell of buttery kernels created a cozy atmosphere perfect for watching films. As the movie industry grew, so did the popcorn industry, which became an entire sector of snacking on its own.

Despite popcorn’s reputation as a movie treat (often coated in questionable artificial flavoring), it has since been remarketed as a whole grain, gluten freesnack, both high in fiber and able to regulate digestion. Healthfocused brands like LesserEvil launched entire lines of wholesome popcorn made with the best ingredients in mind. The company experimented with different seasonings and syrups to create a wide variety of tastes, from sweet kettle corn to savory cheesy flavor.

LesserEvil’s creativity pushes the boundaries of typical popcorn. Their original flavors include Himalayan Pink Salt, “No Cheese” Cheesiness and Himalayan Gold with butter-flavored coconut oil. For more adventurous popcorn lovers, their specialty flavors include Fiery Hot!, Avocadolicious and Oh My Ghee! The brand celebrated Valentine’s Day with vegan White Chocolate Strawberry and released Dark Chocolate and Himalayan Pink Salt and a White Chocolate + Matcha mixture for Christmas.

While plenty of supermarkets sell pre-popped bags, popcorn is

the moisturizer inside turns to steam, causing the kernel to overheat and explode. The kernel turns inside out, creating a perfectly popped popcorn. Cooking the kernels in flavored oils, like coconut oil, can add extra depth to the snack, and experimenting with seasonings allow for sweet, sour, spicy or salty notes.

The family owned and operated Pipcorn Heirloom Snacks entered the popcorn fray in 2012 with the mission to create snacks to satisfy both savory and sweet cravings. The company uses heirloom kernels as their base for all products because of their natural flavor and crunch.

Pipcorn’s production started with adorable mini popcorn in Sea Salt, Truffle and Spicy Cheddar varieties, but success allowed the company to expand its offerings to corn snacks in more forms like Cheese Balls and Corn Dippers. Their popped-corn chips come in Twists, Puffs and Crunchies, and range in flavors from Cinnamon Sugar to

Since its rise in pop-ularity at the movies and dominance in the snacking world, it’s clear popcorn is here to stay — no matter the time, place or type. With each new variety, we’re happy to report: popcorn is no trend, but a staple best topped with a spice or

FLIGHT
story by cleo kanter and betsy winick

FONDA CANTINA: ABUELITA COMES TO EVANSTON

THE CITY OF CHICAGO: A vibrant, multicultural community that oozes Mexican heritage if you know where to look. Take a stroll through Pilsen or Little Village and the culture permeates the air. Anyone who’s been can tell you that every day, whiffs of fresh-baked tortillas from El Milagro and the bakeries’ “pan finos” float out onto the streets and into the city air.

But…Evanston? Not so much. Making up 9.05% of Evanston’s population in 2010, Hispanics in Evanston grew to make up 11.24% in 2020. Nonetheless, Wildcats identifying as Mexican still can’t find a food scene to match that growth.

“Some people like Tomate, but that just doesn’t feel authentic,” said McCormick sophomore Ehulises Rodriguez. “If you look up “Mexican food” on Maps, you’ll get recommended Venezuelan food because there aren’t enough options.”

Clearly, Evanston’s Mexican scene is in need of an upheaval. So when the Winnetka-based George Trois group opened up Fonda Cantina on the corner of Clark St and Benson Ave, I deemed it a must-try.

Majority partner Michael Lachowicz dispatched George Trois’ Chef Miguel Escobar and Chef Carlos Cahue to Evanston to open what they call a “memoir of Mexico.” The reasoning behind the decision: “these are folks that I know have the chops, and now they have a new venture allowing them to express their culture and their passions,” said Lachowicz.

Each member of Fonda’s kitchen staff hails from a different part of Mexico, meaning they are proud to inject a distinct influence into each corner of the menu. For Lachowicz, his favorite dish is Pastel Azteca, a one-pot meal that intertwines texture and flavor without sacrificing either aspect. It incorporates a low-and-

slow braised chicken into a striated dish of corn tortilla moistened with Oaxacan Mole Rojo.

It is not just the back-of-house who have a say over what’s being served. Managing partner Sergio Angel ensured Fonda stayed true to its wide-ranging nature by throwing in some love for his hometown of Monterrey, Nuevo León. Angel emphasized his native region’s fondness for grilled red meat, and Fonda doesn’t fall short. Neoleonés carne asada is featured twice on the menu, as an entree and a taco.

MIGUEL ESCOBAR & CARLOS CAHUE CHEFS

The interior and decorations were also carefully selected by the kitchen staff themselves. Escobar held the final say in many of the decorations at Fonda. The tapestries on the wall are ones he hung especially because they reminded him of the decor in his childhood house in Guerrero.

Lachowicz and company know their audience. The team made sure the restaurant caters to both Evanston residents and the student population by creating two distinct sections within the space.

One side of Fonda houses the softer, more intimate main dining room, while the other holds the active, vibrant Cantina. Younger diners are encouraged to grab a seat at the bar and enjoy a game on TV. Though both sides have the same menu

ENTREE 28 2023
“FONDA IS A MEMOIR OF MEXICO.

for food and drink, the Cantina offers draft beers from local brewery Casa Humilde along with a large selection of cocktails and mocktails – each one crafted to complement what’s on the plate.

“The beverages should make the food taste better and the food should make the beverages taste better,” said beverage manager Brian Duncan.

Duncan leads weekly classes for the staff at Fonda, informing them of new beverage options introduced that week and their respective applications to any and all specific palettes guests might have.

Lachowicz insists Fonda is not here to compete with what Evanston already offers, they’re simply carving out a new niche. Nothing on the menu is more than $22 so students can enjoy a meal away from the dining hall or pizza delivery. They’re also all ears for Northwestern students on how to improve.

“What we want is a communal feel,” said Lachowicz. “To Northwestern students: tell us what we’re doing wrong! We’re creating a restaurant for you!”

A true testament to Fonda’s commitment to students are their adjusted hours. Although only open until 10:30 PM most nights, the location also operates a late-night walk-up window for tacos until 4:00 AM, Friday and Saturday. Whether in need of a cozy dinner or a pick-me-up on the way home for a night out, Fonda truly is making sure their Evanston family is treated right.

Interviews edited for clarity and conciseness with permission of interviewees.

taco de carne asada

carne asada with grilled onion, plum salsa, cilantro

albóndigas al chipotle

beef meatballs simmered in tomatochipotle broth, warm tortillas

taco al pastor

spit-grilled sliced pork marinated in guajillo, grilled pineapple, cilantro, onion

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ENTREE
design by nadia bidarian photos by kelly meng

in the Windy City

Your Golden Ticket to the best confections in Chicago

From one chocolate lover to another, these are the must-try spots near campus to satisfy a “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory”-sized sweet tooth.

KILWINS

Davis

A SHERMAN AVE stronghold, Kilwins is a staple for ice cream, toffee and caramel apples. Their Sea Salt

Caramel Mackinac Islandstyle fudge, made weekly in a giant steel pot, is droolworthy and the plenitude of their menu items means there’s a treat for everyone. Looking for an island escape? The Chocolate Toasted Coconut ice

cream combines a textured crunch with a smooth chocolate base. Made specially for the city, the Evanston Mud flavor offers an explosion of vanilla, chocolate and caramel swirl. Raspberry lemon truffles made with real fruit are a balance of tangy and sweet, featuring a tart center encased in chocolate that is simply irresistible. They also serve a Blueberry Waffle Cone ice cream Violet Beauregarde would be proud of.

BELGIAN CHOCOLATIER Dempster

BELGIAN CHOCOLATIER HAS a mission to bring the taste of Belgian chocolate to Evanston’s Main Street. Each detailed truffle tells a story; the variety of creams and centers are all expertly crafted by the Piron brothers. Their usage of refined cocoa guarantees the smoothest chocolate creations, like the Grand Mariner truffle — a beautifully

with cinnamon powder. My favorite spice added subtle sweetness and woody notes that paired perfectly with rich cocoa. The shop also offers a large assortment of chocolate nut barks like Tart Cherry and chocolate glazed fruits (go for the Candied Ginger) for non-truffle cravings.

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NOIR D’EBÈNE

Main

NOIR D’EBÈNE’S “bean to bar” commitment to quality encapsulates chocolate’s complexity. Their creations transport you directly to where the chocolate was sourced in a single bite. My taste of a 72% cacao bar from Cameroon made clear the elevated ingredients Noir d’Ebene prides themselves on. The shop also emphasizes cocoa’s anti-inflammatory properties, antioxidants and minerals that reduce blood pressure and help fight stress. Their offerings don’t stop at mere bars. Pastries, hot chocolate and pecan pralines are also featured on the Noir d’Ebene menu, along

with labeled vegan and gluten free items and a weekly meal. New Orleans-style Beignets are deep fried in store and their “world famous” hot chocolate comes with the choice of banana, strawberry, oat or almond milk. The silky banana milk hot chocolate made with their signature chocolate completely blew away my palate.

WINDY CITY SWEETS

AWAKEN YOUR INNER child at Windy City Sweets. With over 40 years of experience, 1200+ products, ice cream and in house chocolate blends, the N. Broadway store is what dreams are made of.

During my visit, I got to watch the owner craft a batch of English Toffee as fellow onlookers salivated at the pecan-

L.A. BURDICK

Belmont Grand

loaded mixture. Willy Wonka himself would be impressed with Windy City’s candy assortment, ranging from gummi candy and chocolate covered pretzels, chocolate Twinkies and malted milk balls, to snacking favorites like chocolate covered nuts. They also consistently include peanut butter in a variety of their treats for all their nutty fans.

A PIONEERING CHOCOLATIER, Larry Burdick opened his first single source chocolate shop in New York City to bring the art of Swiss chocolate to the United States. Now a national brand, the Chicago location is home to a glorious wall of chocolate bars and “drinking” chocolate from countries around the world. Each cup of cocoa has a flavor unique to where it was harvested. L.A Burdick specializes in lavish holiday collections, like handmade bunnies, eggs and lambs for Easter. Their signature chocolate mice topped with tiny

almond ears are handcrafted individually in 12 steps over three days. Do not leave without trying the infamous Burdick Cookie, baked fresh daily. The masterpiece pastry boasts a generous dark chocolate-to-dough ratio, crunchy walnuts and a touch of vanilla worth the trek downtown.

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photos by sulwen ma design by gillian nieh

QBehind the Scenes of Charlie Trotter “Love, Charlie”

&

REBECCA HALPERN’S DOCUMENTARY “Love, Charlie: The Rise and Fall of Chef

Charlie Trotter” is a deep-dive into the life and legacy of Charlie Trotter, an iconic Chicago chef who revolutionized American fine dining. Well known for his pioneering approach to vegetarianism, affinity for micro-greens and reinvention of French recipes, his namesake restaurant, located in a Lincoln Park townhouse, became a must-visit destination for food lovers around the world. An indisputable mastermind in the kitchen, Trotter’s reputation was also marred by stories of his controlling behavior and volatile temper.

Through interviews with Trotter’s family, friends and fellow chefs — among them Wolfgang Puck, Emeril Lagasse and Grant Achatz of Chicago’s Alinea — Halpern paints a detailed portrait of the chef, exploring the highs and lows of his career and personal life. The film features personal archival material, including home movies and hundreds of handwritten letters, providing unmatched insight into Trotter’s early years.

“Love, Charlie” illuminates the human aspect of Trotter’s story, revealing the man behind the myth. Following Charlie from childhood to his young passing, Halpern crafts a powerful tribute to a massive figure in the American culinary world. The director sat down to discuss her impactful film and the man whose influence on the nation’s food scene continues to be felt to this day.

QWHAT DREW YOU to Charlie Trotter as a film subject, and what was your initial vision for telling his story?

AI DIDN’T COME up with the idea for the movie, but I might as well have! I grew up in Winnetka and Glencoe, Charlie grew up in Wilmette, and we went to the same high school. My mother was a food writer in Chicago in the 1980s and 90s, so I knew about Charlie Trotter from growing up. I was just 10 years old when he opened up his restaurant, so I never had a chance to eat there. What I knew about Charlie was what I heard

in the media. When I was hired [for the film], I wanted to uncover who he really was, beyond the headlines and the celebrity.

Q“LOVE, CHARLIE” INCLUDES interviews with people who knew Trotter well, including former staff members, chefs, and food writers. How did you select your interviewees, and what was your process for conducting the interviews?

2023 32 ENTREE
ADirector Rebecca Halpern dishes on her ode to Charlie Trotter

AWE STARTED PRODUCTION on day 1 of the COVID lockdown. We had a discussion initially where we decided on two ways to go about making this documentary: surveying all the big chefs in the world to get their take on Charlie and what made him great and difficult, or we could lean more into him as a person and try to tell a more personal narrative. In the film, we used anecdotes to make him more of a character on a journey instead of just a cutthroat chef. Because of COVID, and because the latter was much more compelling, it made sense to try to do it in a much more narrative and intimate fashion than just a general survey.

QONE OF THE STRENGTHS of “Love, Charlie” is the marriage of historical and personal details to paint a picture of Trotter and his legacy. How did you select the archival material used in the film?

ACHARLIE’S FIRST WIFE [Rochelle Smith], who also was one of his closest confidantes in life, held on to about 400 postcards and letters he had written to her back in their twenties. She shared them with us, but his handwriting was so tiny that it was almost impossible to read them. Every available square inch of writing space was filled. We had a team of interns transcribe the postcards and letters for us. In many respects, it was like he wrote his life story before he even lived it, and I tried to remain true to the story that he was telling about how he felt. I used the postcards as artistic elements in the film, but also as background research, so I could

represent the character of “Chuck” Trotter in a way that was true to him.

We also had tons and tons of footage: Charlie was very performative in his work. He liked to be the center of attention. There were always cameras in the kitchen. The footage we had from the late 80s, 90s, and early 2000s wasn’t very good looking, so a lot of time was spent poring through those images to try to find the most compelling moments. Back then, food photography was bad, and video quality did not hold a candle to today. But, we were lucky because Charlie’s story transcended food—I think the fact that we don’t show as much of the cooking actually works in the films favor, in terms of making it relatable.

QAS A FILMMAKER, what do you see as the unique challenges and opportunities of making a documentary about food and the culinary world, as opposed to other subjects?

AWHEN YOU DEAL with anyone who is excellent at what they do, who is among the top echelon of professionals in their field, you feel the pressure to make something as excellent as they were. For me, that was the biggest challenge. It was less about the food. I tried to pull out more of the humanistic qualities, themes and stories. It was more about: how do I make a movie that he would be proud of if he was still alive, or that he would hate, because it was so honest?

QWHAT WAS THE most surprising part of the filmmaking process?

AGRANT ACHATZ’S JOURNEY was really interesting: as a young upstart chef, he wrote Charlie a letter every day to try to get a job at his restaurant. When he got in the kitchen, the scales fell from his eyes, and he saw that Charlie Trotter was not the same person in real life as he imagined in his mind. One thing that really shocked me was how much of a parallel Grant’s story is to Charlie’s. Now, he’s come full circle, and finds himself acting like Charlie all the time.

QWHAT’S ONE LESSON you hope viewers take away from Charlie’s story?

AI HOPE THAT people take a closer look at their own lives and see how they can be more excellent. I think that Charlie was often vilified for trying to get people to step up in their own lives — not everybody is built like him. But, there is room for all of us to improve, and to dedicate a little bit more care and love into everything we do.

ENTREE 2023 33
design by gillian nieh This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

ONE OF CINEMA’S most tense movie scenes takes place not on the battlefield or in a dinosaurinfested theme park, but over two decadent pieces of Apple Strudel topped with vanilla cream. In his eclectic, immensely gory 2009 war film “Inglourious Basterds,” director Quentin Tarantino puts a piece of the German pastry between the ruthless Nazi SS Hans Landa and protagonist filmmaker Shosanna Dreyfus.

Despite the life or death circumstances of their conversation, Dreyfus can’t help but show her satisfaction with the dessert upon digging in. Her momentary relief provides not only a respite from heart palpitations, but serves as testament to the spectacular quality of the applefilled delight.

Bennison’s Bakery handrolls their own Apfelstrudel in a far more welcoming atmosphere than 1944 Paris. An Evanston staple since 1938, the Davis Street location takes pride in the pastry recipe passed down through generations of award-winning bakers, one owner Jory Downer follows today.

Flour, water, salt, eggs, oil and honey combine to create the store’s homemade dough, which is left to rest overnight. After 24 hours, the mixture is hand-stretched into a thin layer on a bedsheet. A

uncommon kitchen tool, Downer said the sheet gives the pastry its signature flaky texture and helps with rolling the finished product into a strudel shape later on. According to Downer, Bennison’s dough-stretching method is a dying art across Chicagoland bakeries.

“I don’t know anyone making it like this other than us,” Downer said.

Americanized versions of the German dessert often have the puff pastry exterior of an apple turnover rather than a classic Apfelstrudel. Bennison’s strudel crust lacks a leavening agent and is, thus, far thinner than these aforementioned wannabes. The result is a crunchier, lighter outer shell with more emphasis on the filling in the center.

Once pulled out, the dough is brushed with butter, sprinkled with breadcrumbs, ground nuts and cinnamon sugar. The apple filling made with fresh fruit and peeler imported from Germany is heaped onto one end before the entire creation is rolled up.

Equipped with years of practice, Downer said he can churn out six strips of strudel in 30 minutes, if all the components are ready to go. The biggest hindrance in preparing the pastry is making sure not to poke a hole in the delicate dough.

Bennison’s Apfelstrudel is available from Labor Day to Memorial Day, and sold in half or full logs generously showered in powdered sugar. Known for their Red Velvet birthday cakes and mammoth M&M Cookies, Marzipan Slices, French Macarons and a variety of croissants are also among the bakery’s daily offerings. The Bienenstich — a German “bee sting cake” made with honey, almonds and a vanilla buttercream — is a staff favorite, along with the Oatmeal Raisin Cookie.

While timeless family recipes, like the one used for the Apple Strudel, remain largely unchanged, global influence and holiday demand give Downer a chance to shake up the menu based on the season. Polish, Swedish and German desserts make a frequent appearance in the display case, but there is no limit to the kind of indulgence Bennison’s is willing to bring to life.

By no means should one ever hope to be in Dreyfus’s situation — she worked undercover on a film to bring about the Nazis’ end — but her affinity for German pastries is a less life-threatening part of “Inglourious Basterds” to recreate. Bennison’s Bakery delivers on an authentic, flaky Apfelstrudel, without or without a Hans Landaapproved dollop of cream.

DESSERT
story by nixie strazza
34
design by gretchen raedle photos by sulwen ma
2023
Bennison’s version of the big screen pastry

RATIONAL, INTUITIVE AND energetic intellectuals, Analysts need a snack able to keep up with their creative imagination and ability to problem solve. Their movie munchie can stand alone in terms of flavor and meets the expectations of these socially selective thinkers.

THIS ONE IS for the wild childs. Known for living life on the edge, Explorers like to take risks when it comes to their movie snack selections. Questionable nacho cheese and plenty of rainbow color? Bring it on. These vibrant beings want to enjoy all life has to offer, even if it means a bit of artificial color.

NO MOVIE EXPERIENCE is complete without a bite to munch on. Buckets of popcorn, bags of candy and heaps of frighteningly orange nachos are just as iconic as the films themselves. The pre-movie deliberation between salty and sweet is a serious concession stand conundrum. To aid the painstaking process, we devised a snacking guide based on the Myers–Briggs Type Indicator to point you towards an Oscarworthy eat aligned with your personality.

WHEN IT COMES to social interactions, Diplomats are all about compromise and collaboration. Deeply insightful and empathetic towards others, these idealists would opt for classic crowd pleasers. Ever the optimist, a bit of sweetness is exactly the

THE MOST GROUNDED of the bunch, Sentinels are productive, practical thinkers with incredible love for others. Rarely demanding of attention and always willing to help, Sentinels scour the concession stand for a tried-and-true option sure to bring timeless comfort and satisfaction.

35
DESSERT story by nixie strazza design by rose kanaley

DESSERT

Reality baking shows serve sweetness and cake

2536 north clark street chicago illinois 60614

*original location

Molly’s Cupcakes has four Chicago locations

1150 south wabash avenue chicago illinois 60605

419 east illinois street, suite 120 chicago illinois 60611

179 morgan street chicago illinois 60607

Find where to watch your favorite baking shows today

Every time you eat a cupcake or sip a latte, you help our kids. So eat up!

JOHN NICOLAIDES

*ratings from IMDb

36
2023

DESSERT

“CAKE

BOSS,”

“CUPCAKE WARS” or “The Great British Bake Off,” reality baking shows are easily one of the most beloved television genres. We all know the sheer excitement of our favorite “Cupcake Wars” contestant adding the final cupcake to their elaborate design or the inevitable disappointment when a fan favorite underperforms in a technical challenge.

Why are we infatuated with these confectious programs? In comparison to the cutthroat nature of other reality cooking competitions, bake-off television offers a lighter take on food shows. Invested viewers crave interactions between bakers, their backstories and, after each round, have a need for something sweet fulfilled by just one more episode. Chicago is home to its very own TV baking champion.

Established in 2007, Lincoln

Park’s Molly’s Cupcakes became a household name after winning an episode of “Cupcake Wars” in 2009. The name recognition helped founder and owner John Nicolaides expand the business to a national scale, with more stores in Chicago, Iowa and New York. Famous for their centerfilled desserts, Molly’s Cupcakes are as decadent as they are unique — their flavor combos include Chocolate Mousse, Samoa and Salted Caramel Butterscotch. Their menu features a seasonal rotation, along with other baked goods. The shop also donates a portion of their profits to local schools.

“Every time you eat a cupcake or sip a latte, you help our kids,” Nicolaides said. “So eat up!”

“The Great British Bake Off” is the cheeriest baking show of them all. Each summer, twelve amateur bakers from around the UK descend on a scenic private estate in Berkshire, England to showcase their baking skills, get creative and wow the judges, all in pursuit for the UK’s Best Amateur Baker title. An almost unheard of aspect in reality TV, the winner of “The Great British Bake Off” receives no cash prize or tangible gain. The bakers really are in it for love of the craft and confections.

Over the course of the season’s ten episodes, the audience gets a special glimpse into the contestants’ lives and personalities. It is easy to fall in love with the bakers’ quirks and personal style, not to mention their penchant for helping their fellow competitors rather than watching them struggle with a challenge. “The Great British Bake Off” encourages camaraderie between the contestants, hosts and

even the judges. When it comes to elimination, they truly are sorry to send a friend and baker home.

The season finale brings all the bakers and their families together for a picnic to watch the final “Showstopper” challenge among the three finalists. As a group, they get to enjoy some masterful creations. Joy and unity fostered throughout “The Great British Bake Off” usurps any sense of animosity between the bakers — via social media, we see bakers routinely stay in touch after leaving the tent.

“The Great British Bake Off” could pave the way for a new kind of baking reality television, one that is less competitive and more connection-based. The show selects bakers from all backgrounds, which makes for diverse stories and cultural influences in the recipes they create. Bakers will often showcase family recipes in their signature challenge, drawing in the audience with a deeply personal love of food.

Reality TV gets a bad rep for tearing others down for the sake of winning. Feel-good baking shows like “The Great British Bake Off” look to change this narrative. Bakers enter the tent for the sake of challenging themselves, expressing their passion and stepping outside their comfort zone. Given the show’s success, reality baking may evolve beyond fastpaced competitions towards celebrating the cross-cultural connections baked goods can cultivate. In real life, cooking and baking is meant to bring people together, so why not share the sentiment on screen? After all, we could all use a little sweetness.

Wars’ season
winner — in Chicago!
Check out more about Molly’s Cupcakes — Cupcake
one
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design by rose kanaley 2023

THE MAKING OF A THE MAKING OF A

COFFEE CONNOISSEUR COFFEE

UNTIL RECENTLY, I was not a coffee drinker. The extent of my coffee knowledge was the Starbucks blend my dad drank on Saturday mornings when I came down for my piano lesson — made black and piping hot. Sometimes, I ventured a sip after some significant cooling down, but I found it was never worth the wait. It wasn’t bad, I just really didn’t see the appeal.

The pandemic changed everything. Faced with the boredom responsible for creating an army of banana bread bakers, I found myself watching endless videos of World Champion barista James Hoffmann explaining specialty coffee. As it turns out, making a cup of joe is quite the science. Being a total food nerd, I was hooked. I learned about brew methods, extraction yields, grind distributions and, most importantly, fancy equipment I definitely couldn’t afford. I absorbed the steps of meticulous espresso making, why one coffee grinder was better than another and where the best brews come from, but, comically, I couldn’t remember the last time I had a cup myself.

Recognizing this absurdity, I

CONNOISSEUR

resolved to get myself a coffee grinder and brewer. I just needed some coffee. In contrast to my dad’s mainstream Starbucks, specialty coffee is often roasted lightly, to let more delicate flavors shine through. I started with buying local, but as I got more into the world of coffee, I opted for a Trade subscription to expand my repertoire.

Each week I received a new bag of beans from all around the world. I always thought of coffee as bitter, but I’ll never forget drinking my coffee one morning, convinced someone had slipped maple syrup into it when I wasn’t looking. I knew coffee could be described as sweet, with notes of chocolate, cinnamon or molasses, but it all sounded a bit too pretentious for me. I’m so glad I was wrong.

With Starbucks’ extensive menu, seasonal drinks and countless other chains across the globe, it’s easy to see why coffee is a cultural phenomenon with a cultlike following — there are few people I know who aren’t reliant on their morning caffeine. Through my personal research, however, I’ve grown to see that coffee is

much more than a mix-in or simple latte. The specialty industry treats coffee like wine — there is even an extensive tasting wheel to break down the many possible flavor combinations.

Admittedly, Starbucks’ coffee was not as bad as I remembered. But, compared to the light Peruvian roast I had at home — one with notes of dried cranberry, blackcurrant and toffee — the two could be completely different beverages. Taste is subjective, but I found the Starbucks rendition watery and overly bitter. By contrast, the Peruvian blend was thick, coating my mouth more like milk than water, and left behind a bright flavor that lingered long after the coffee was gone. It’s difficult to compare the two experiences when one is so clearly sub-par.

In the limitless world of specialty coffee, I am sure there is a drink for almost everyone,but apart from my dad, I know few people who drink their coffee straight, with nothing to hide behind. My friends say they don’t like it that way. Maybe, like pre-pandemic me, they haven’t found the right kind.

DESSERT 2023 38
story by reece dubin design by evelyn driscoll photos by riya palkar My ambivalence-turned-obsession with the world’s favorite brew
HUNGRY FOR MORE? HUNGRY FOR MORE? Looking for more delectable pop culture content? In need of a new Evanston go-to? Follow us on Instagram @spoon_nu and check out all our digital articles at our website. @jewishwildcats @graduatehomesteadroom @eatbobspizza @blendedevanston @tabletostixramen @beatrixrestaurants @stackedsocialhouse FOLLOW @SPOON_NU ON INSTAGRAM @spoon_nu 2023 39 CHECK OUT OUR WEBSITE spoonuniversity.com/chapter/nu

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