fall 2023
22 28
37
14
ISSUE
12
IN THIS
32
Savory Oatmeal Recipes Popcorn Recipes Trail-Mix Reinvented Lemon Pesto Pasta Chiu Quon Bakery Sweet & Savory Toast Five Foundational Tastes Soli Grill
04 10
2024
04 10 12 14 22 28 32 37
03
STARTERS
story by chiara dorsi
Move Over,
Oliver Twist! It’s time to revolutionize your breakfast by making a sweet staple into a new savory bowl! THOSE
WHO KNOW oatmeal probably see it as an exclusively sweet breakfast meal. These three recipes might just convince you to switch up your palate and embrace the countless savory toppings you can add to your morning oats. TO PREPARE THE OATMEAL: Follow the directions according to whatever brand of oats you buy. This recipe uses Trader Joe’s Rolled Oats: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
To take your savory oatmeal up to the next level, turn it into a grain bowl with some fun toppings.
C H , SAU
Spinach & Sausage Hash
S P I NA
Use a 2-to-1 ratio for the water and oats. Simmer the water till it is boiling. Add in the oats and reduce the heat to low. Stir occasionally, let it simmer for about 10 minutes. Take off the heat and season with plenty of olive oil, salt & pepper–and any other savory seasonings you might desire!
SA
1. Add 1 tablespoon of olive oil to a pan on high heat. 2. Dice onions and add to the plan once the oil is hot. 3. Saute onions until they are translucent. Reduce the heat to medium. Add salt, garlic powder and chili flakes to taste. 4. Add in Italian pork sausage. Remove the casing if it comes in links. 5. Grind the sausage until it’s dispersed into fine chunks. 6. Add fresh (or defrosted) spinach to the pan once the sausage has browned. 7. Season with more salt. 8. Add the hash on top of the savory oatmeal, and finish with shredded cheese.
GE
,
&
04
2024
CH
EES
E
STARTERS
M
design by gillian nieh photos by salma alsikafi
US
HR
Mushroom, Kale, & Onion Medley
OOM
, K ALE
1. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a pan on medium heat. 2. Slice onions into rounds and add to the pan once oil is warm. 3. Disperse onions so each is coated in oil. Reduce heat to low. Season with a pinch of salt and a touch of sugar (any substitute will do) to speed up the caramelizing process. 4. Stir occasionally, wait until the onions have browned and caramelized. 5. Add sliced mushrooms and kale to the pan. If needed, add another tablespoon of olive oil. Top with a lid to help steam the new vegetables. 6. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 7. Add the medley on top of the savory oatmeal and enjoy.
,& O N I O N EG
Fried Egg, Avocado, & G Smoked Salmon
,A
VO
1. Add a splash of olive oil to a pan on high heat. 2. Once the oil is hot, crack an egg and season with salt and pepper to taste. 3. Cut open an avocado and shell out one half with a spoon. Cut into slices and fan them out on top of the oatmeal, seasoned with flaky salt. 4. Add slices of smoked salmon to the bowl. Season with a splash of lemon juice. 5. Once the edges of the egg are looking a bit crispy, add a splash of water and a lid to finish cooking the whites. 6. Add the fried egg to the oatmeal bowl when finished. 7. Top with chili onion crunch oil, or any sauce you prefer.
CA
D O, & SA L M O N
2024
05
Oddly Satisfying
STARTERS
story by marcus kim & zoe chao
design by grace wu photos by marcus kim & zoe chao
We tested the strangest food combos and ranked them Inspired by TikTok trends and popular pregnancy
cravings, we explored the world of peculiar food combos. We ranked based on flavor, texture and individual preference, leading us on an adventure into the realm of unconventional snacking.
Doritos & Hershey’s Chocolate This combo is a match in heaven. The
chocolate’s sweetness balances the cheesiness of the Nacho Cheese Doritos, creating a bizarrely harmonious pairing that left us craving more. The crunch of the chip and the melt-inyour-mouth chocolate remind us of s’mores, except with a fun, extra kick.
Channing Tatum’s PB&J with Cheetos If Channing Tatum likes this combo,
then we had to give it a try, too. While we might not crave this concoction on a regular basis, it wasn’t that bad. The crunchiness and saltiness of the Cheetos reacted nicely with the smoothness of peanut butter, reminding us of RITZ Peanut Butter Sandwich Crackers. Although this combination is not as hot as Channing Tatum in Magic Mike, if you’re willing to step up to the challenge, you should give this combo a try.
Buddy the Elf Spaghetti This Will Ferrell-approved snack consists
of decadent chocolate, maple syrup and M&Ms top of pasta. The blandness of the pasta and the sweetness of the toppings created a dessert pasta, analogous to dessert pizza. If you’re looking to replace your typical movie popcorn, try this combo for the next time you watch “Elf”.
06
2024
Hot Cheetos and Strawberry Yogurt During the Great Depression, people’s
resourcefulness led to creations like peanut butter and pickles. After smearing peanut butter on a slice of pickle, our mouths soured at the taste. The acidity of the pickle overpowered the creamy peanut butter, something we’d rather not recreate. As pickle lovers and peanut butter enthusiasts, we would advise readers to try them both… separately!
Peanut Butter and Pickles Trying this food combo is akin to
vomiting. The yogurt’s tartness and the Cheetos’ heated sour-lime taste left a grotesque curdling in the throat. Texturewise, the Cheetos had a crunchy, powdery texture, while the dense yogurt was smooth and creamy, giving our mouths a confusing, sensory overload. Overall, this clash in flavor led to a mismatched feeling of PTSD, making us gagging for less.
design by alicia gu photo by ellie huppe
`
t e e Sw Sa lty S O B M O C PUS M A C re ON tudents a
Perhaps the most bizarre combo here, cottage cheese and nilla wafers may sound like an awkward pairing, but don’t dismiss it quite yet. The mild flavor of cottage cheese means it pairs well with both sweet and salty foods—making it a great dip for classic and sweet nilla wafers.
cottage cheese
spoonnu’s Instagram story) for their craziest sweet and salty cravings. From the highly controversial pineapple pizza pairing to beloved sea salt caramels, the two powerful tastes require a delicate balance to make the perfect snack.. Get inspired by NU students’ sweet and salty combos of choice.
cheez-its + oreos
cottage cheese
ice cream + french fries
The quintessential late-night, post-prom, nostalgiainducing treat knows what balance is and executes it perfectly. From texture to temperature, the two flavor profiles strike a sweet (and salty!) spot that will wow your taste buds. Stop by Fran’s on south campus to give it a try and prepare to be wowed.
I asked the NU student body (via @
It’s hard to say which definitive road-trip snack reigns supreme: Cheez-Its or Oreos. But what if you didn’t have to choose? With this quirky pairing, enjoy a mixture of crispy saltiness with a rich, chocolatey cookie. Just don’t go as far as dipping the Cheez-Its in milk. Unless…
apples
nilla wafers
s how NU ? Wonder or combo v a fl ic s s rs. the cla your pee m creating o fr y tl c dire Find out
STARTERS
story by cassie sun
Cottage cheese took TikTok by storm, and it seems to be doing the same here at NU, appearing once again in conjunction with apples. Try an apple cinnamon cottage cheese bowl for breakfast, or even turn it into pancakes for the ultimate cozy fall dish.
Last but never least is the embodiment of sweet and salty at its finest. National Chocolate-Covered Pretzel Day may be only one day, but this impeccable combo deserves a celebration every day. With the ultimate crunch factor of the pretzel and the melt-in-yourmouth creaminess of chocolate, you won’t be able to stop eating these. And they come in all different forms—white chocolate, milk chocolate, dark chocolate or whatever you may prefer. If you’re overwhelmed with brands to choose from, Trader Joe’s milk chocolate-covered mini pretzels are a great place to start and always hit the spot.
chocolate-covered pretzels 2024
07
STARTERS
story by jessica bradford
WHAT’S IN A love letter to the food app filling up my screen time and my stomach
S
weaty, stomachs growling, and over 10,000 steps into what would be a 30,000 step day, my friend and I paused underneath the shade of the Trevi Fountain where she asked me the fateful question: “Do you want to find us a place for lunch?” A quick click onto the “recs nearby” tab of restaurant finder app Beli and approximately ten minutes later, I sat down to eat the best pizza of my entire life. Those who know me know my favorite phone application, Beli.. Among review-based media platforms like Goodreads and Letterboxed, Beli’s communitycentric interface and practical features stand out. Beli’s premise is simple: eat at a restaurant, review it on Beli in comparison to other places you’ve eaten and Beli gives it a score. But the app is so much more than metrics and labels. Rankings include captions, photos, favorite dishes and labels for meal types, like hangovers or happy hours. Users can bookmark any locations they want to try, ranging from coffee shops, bars, bakeries and dessert spots. Like with any social media platform, I often refresh my Beli
08
2024
feed to check on my friends’ status. I can see new restaurants they’ve tried, places they’ve bookmarked and their rankings of places I’ve recommended. m I feel extremely validated when my recommendation receives a high score, encouraging me to continue sharing my favorite finds. From my Instagram explore page to my TikTok For You Page,, my screen time always reflects my high consumption of food content.
And while I’ve been an avid Beli advocate since 2022, I noticed a large number of Northwestern students jumping on the bandwagon while studying abroad this past fall. Naomi Birenbaum, a Medill junior currently studying in Madrid, said, “Exploring cities via food would definitely still be a part of my study abroad experience
without Beli, but the app makes it way more fun! It’s also helpful to already know where to eat when getting to a new city, not just from Google or Yelp reviews but from people I know and trust.” Beli has been a faithful companion during my time abroad in Copenhagen. On weekends, I’ve arrived in new countries armed with a handful of recommendations from friends on Beli, and from croissants in Paris to pizza in Rome, the “recs nearby” feature has guided me to some of my favorite meals in Europe. When friends text me for Copenhagen recommendations, it’s easy to sort through my Beli rankings by city and share my favorite spots. Another student in Copenhagen, Sari Dashefsky, agreed, noting, “as someone who really likes to try new restaurants, it’s honestly an organizational tool to keep everything in one place and not spam my Instagram with food photos.” Beli’s smashing success is not limited to across the pond, and its growth does not appear to be stopping anytime soon. Sophomore Zoe Alter attributed the app’s success to the popularity of food media, “We are at a point where everyone
STARTERS
design by isabelle hauf-pisoni photo courtesy of beli
MY BELI? is posting everything they’re eating and people are able to create so much content about food,” Alter said. “So as a result, you get people who swear by Beli because they’re able to have a social media platform solely for food.”
For the sake of the followers of my pandemic-era baking account (@ jbradbakes), I hope Beli’s success is not a short-lived trend (I’m looking at you whipped coffee), but a social media platform for years to come.
2024
09
APPETIZERS
photos by lulu goldman story by lucy hederick
design by lavanya subramanian
what’s POPPIN’? Prepare for your next movie night by adding some personality to your popcorn recipes with these sweet mix-ins
cinnamon raisin (for the bagel fanatics)
MIX-INS: Cinnamon sugar & raisins INSTRUCTIONS: Pop popcorn. Coat warm popcorn generously with cinnamon sugar and mix well. Add raisins to the top and gently mix again!
peppermint bark
(for the people who brush their teeth every time they leave the house) MIX-INS: Peppermint bark INSTRUCTIONS: Chop peppermint bark, then pop popcorn. Add chopped bark to warm popcorn and mix thoroughly.
As a universally adored and
versatile snack, popcorn makes an ideal base for food-related experimentation. Traditionalists may abhor the idea of mixing even the classic M&M into the airy snack, but the potential for salty and sweet popcorn combinations is truly limitless. I created five innovative sweet and salty popcorn recipes and tested their popularity among a crowd of fellow students. I used the same “sea salt” flavored popcorn in each recipe to keep the salty flavor constant while switching up the sweets. Measure your toppings with your heart!
dirt pudding
(for the serious sweet tooth) MIX-INS: Oreos & gummy worms INSTRUCTIONS: Crush Oreos, leaving some larger chunks, and cut gummy worms into fourths. Pop popcorn. Add Oreos and gummy worms to the top of the popcorn. Mix gently, otherwise toppings will fall to the bottom of the bowl!
s’mores
(for the avid campers)
muddy buddies (for the candy snobs)
MIX-INS: Muddy Buddies INSTRUCTIONS: Make Muddy Buddies, if opting to do so. Pop popcorn. Crush some Muddy Buddies over the top of warm popcorn and mix. Next, add some whole Muddy Buddies and mix again.
10
2024
MIX-INS: Milk chocolate, mini marshmallows and graham crackers INSTRUCTIONS: Chop chocolate of your choice and crumble graham crackers into small pieces, then pop popcorn. Add any marshmallows, chopped chocolate and crumbled graham crackers to warm popcorn. Mix thoroughly and enjoy a bite including each element!
APPETIZERS
design by kate perez
story by kate perez
how to:
THE PERFECT PARTY SPREAD
A snack spread for every season Everyone loves a good snack spread. It’s the centerpiece of any party, right? While we all enjoy indulging in the many food choices of a snack table, making them can be equally, if not more, enjoyable than savoring them. Crafting the perfect blend of sweet and salty treats while aligning them with a party theme is an art. If you resonate with that last part, today is your lucky day. Let’s face it: snack preferences change throughout the year and with the seasons. Do you imagine eating fresh fruit and potato chips on the beach in winter? No, that combo gives total summer energy. I’ve offered you the top sweet and salty individual and combo snacks for each season. So, if you’re eager to explore new snacks, keep reading.
menu 1:
THE FALL FEAST
menu 2: WINTER WONDERLAND
When I think of fall snacks, I immediately gravitate toward pumpkin spice and other fall classics, like caramel apples and apple cider. Here’s the perfect balance of sweet and salty to complete your fall-time party spread.
Now this was a hard one. Between all of the holiday-themed snacks and limited-edition foods in stores, I experienced a hardcore choice paradox. Mix and match as you wish, as these sweet and savory treats capture the essence of the winter season.
menu 3:
menu 4:
Springtime welcomes the return of sunshine, warmer weather and blooming flowers – an ideal time for a charcuterie board picnic. I imagine an array of fruits, pita and hummus dip and an abundance of other treats combined together.
I draw inspiration for these summer snacks from the classic Fourth of July family barbeques. Just imagine sliders, watermelons, potato chips and ice cream – staples that instantly inspire feelings of beachside bliss.
SPRING SWEETS (AND SALTIES)
Sweet Options 1. Fruit salad 2. Cherries 3. Candy mix Salty Options 1. Kale chips 2. Pita & hummus 3. Sweet potato fries
Sweet Options 1. Apple cider donuts with cinnamon glaze 2. Caramel apples 3. Pumpkin bread Salty Options 1. Hummus & veggies 2. Pumpkin spice pretzels 3. Pumpkin spice kettle corn
Sweet Options 1. Peppermint chocolate truffles 2. Gingerbread cookies 3. M&Ms Salty Options 1. Cheese fondue 2. Cheese & cracker spread 3. Nut mix
SUMMER SENSATIONS
Sweet Options 1. Watermelon 2. Fruit popsicles 3. Ice cream bar Salty Options 1. Chips & guac 2. Sliders 3. Potato chips
2024
11
APPETIZERS
story by emily lichty
TRAIL MIX RE-INVENTED Three recipes to bring sweet and salty to snack time
I have a confession to make: I used to hate trail mix. Despite my best efforts to enjoy a handful of raisins and cashews every now and then, I always find myself picking through the bag for the M&Ms. But once I realized the full potential of a sweet and salty mix, I was hooked. The options are endless, and you can pack every craving into one snack. So, here are three not-so-basic recipes for snack mixes that won’t feel like a good bag of M&Ms spoiled.
deconstructed circus animal cookie trail mix There is no sweet snack more exciting than
a frosted animal cookie. This trail mix plays with this beloved treat by taking regular animal crackers and adding snacky goodness to make a sweet trail mix of my dreams. Crispy animal crackers pair perfectly with pink himalayan sea salt, freeze dried strawberries and caramelized glazed donut almonds for an elevated dessert mix.
12
2024
1 box regular Animal Crackers 1 bag Glazed Donut Almonds 1 bag freeze dried strawberries A handful (or two) of Trader Joe’s Just the Clusters Granola A sprinkle of pink himalayan sea salt
APPETIZERS
design by gretchen raedle photos by ellie huppe
caramel cold brew banana pretzel twist trail mix While we all can admit a classic trail
mix does many things right, there’s a lot missing. So, I gave it a makeover and nixed the raisins (sorry not sorry). In this snack mix, salty pretzels partner with crispy banana chips and decadent caramel cold brew M&Ms. While I kept the cashews, these flavor combos are certainly anything but the average trail mix.
1 bag dried banana slices ½ bag regular pretzels 1 bag salted cashews 1 bag caramel cold brew M&Ms
1 bag dried apple slices 1 bag mini goldfish ½ bag of butterscotch chips 1 bag glazed pecans A sprinkle of cinnamon
cheddar harvest crunch trail mix This trail mix is like a cheese and
apple board turned into a trail mix. The combination of tangy, cheddar goldfish and sweet apple chips might seem a bit far-fetched, but with a hint of cinnamon and a handful of rich, nutty butterscotch chips, these flavors taste like fall in a bowl. The surprising combinations make for a comforting mix that reminds me of a grown-up’s after school snack.
2024
13
APPETIZERS
design by alex hoffmann photos by libby raymond
story by nixie strazza
H O L D T H E PA R M , KEEP THE PESTO T H E N Y T L E M O N PA S TA G E T S A D A I R Y-F R E E U P G R A D E
M
y prolific use of the NYT Cooking app says little about the dishes I tend to create. Rarely does my schedule permit time for my above-average cooking chops. Typically, necessity wins, and I end up pawing through frozen bags of vegetables to concoct a speedy stir fry between meetings. This hunger-driven routine, however, doesn’t cease my daily bookmarking of Melissa Clark must-trys, like hearty Red Lentil Soup, or saving spicy Jollof Rice for a less chaotic occasion. When able to host a roommate dinner or college chic gathering, I have an arsenal of expert-approved dishes to pull from. Enter Anna Francese Gass’s Lemon Pesto Pasta. The Italian in me is already a sucker for carbs, but add a zesty sauce, and it’s over. Whether basil, kale or red pepper-based, I have yet to encounter a pesto I didn’t devour. Gass’s lemon version comes together with ease and after a few swaps, is delightfully plantbased. Replacing pine nuts with pistachios cuts grocery costs, and adding both the zest and juice
ingredients
Instructions
• 1 package thin spaghetti
1. Add water to a large pot and bring to a boil. Cook pasta according to package instructions until just tender, reserving ½-1 cup of starchy water. Drain pasta and set aside. 2. While the water boils, add pistachios, garlic, lemon juice and zest, and half the olive oil to a blender or food processor. Blend until a paste forms. 3. To the paste, add basil, the rest of the olive oil, garlic powder, salt and pepper to taste. Blend until smooth, adding reserved pasta water to reach desired consistency. 4. Transfer cooked pasta to the large pot and combine with lemon pesto over low heat. Add in a splash of starchy water to give the sauce a glistening finish. Cook only until pasta is al dente. 5. Serve with your choice of dairy-free cheese, nooch or a sprinkle of basil and enjoy.
• 1 cup pistachios • 2 large lemons, zested and juiced • 3-5 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 1 packed cup fresh basil leaves, plus more for garnish if desired • ½ tsp garlic powder • salt and black pepper • ¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil • ½-1 cup reserved pasta water
14
of two lemons ups the flavor ante, waste free. I was so proud of my adapted pesto, I posted my first-ever comment as part of the NYT’s digital cooking community under Gass’s recipe. Embolden by forkfuls of spaghetti, I will continue my crusade of NYT dairy-free upgrades and endless recipe collection. One squeeze of your own lemon pesto, and I swear your tastebuds (and belly) will thank me.
2024
design by gillian nieh photos courtesy of vermillion & del seoul
APPETIZERS
story by steph markowitz
a Sweet & Salty Mashup
Take a deep-dive into the rise of Chicago’s foodie subculture
F
or those who love a sweetand-salty combo and are looking for something a bit more adventurous, Chicago’s fusion food scene might be perfect for you. From sushi burritos to kimchi tacos, the possibilities of fusion cuisine are endless. Sometimes, these Frankenstein creations fall flat, but sometimes you get something greater than the sum of its parts, a cyclone of disparate flavors that somehow make sense together. The concept of fusion took off in the 1980s with the much-lauded endeavors of OG celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck. In today’s global economy and the industry’s constant hunt for a new hook to attract a wave of foodie customers, it’s no wonder fusion has flourished. River North spot Vermillion shot to fame with its imaginative blend of Latin and Indian cuisine. Owner, entrepreneur and women’s rights activist Rohini Dey grew up in New Delhi and came up with the concept during her world travels as a young woman. Menu highlights include tandoori chicken, kochi lamb
chops and their beloved Lobster Portuguese—a signature dish blending the seafood delicacy with curry and Indian spices. Don’t get too excited about these options, though; Dey shocked the Chicago food community by completely transfiguring her hit restaurant and pivoting to a new direction: Indo-Chinese cuisine. Dey said Indian-Chinese combinations are commonplace in India, but are a well-kept secret from the rest of the world. In Vermillion’s newest iteration, Dey promises to be as tongue-in-cheek as ever: the menu will feature black squid ink rice noodles with shrimp squid, black mushrooms and oyster sauce, a dish that will be called “Squid Games.” While many were disappointed at the disappearance of so many one-of-a-kind LatinIndian dishes, Vermillion’s persistent success promises this new era will be a delicious one. Brother-sister duo Pete and Irene Jeon were inspired by the Korean street food vendors of California to put a new spin on the Asian cuisine that has already been growing in popularity over the past several years. Their brainchild, Del Seoul, is a Korean-American fusion fast-casual spot in Lincoln Park. Some patrons say they came to Del Seoul for a more approachable introduction to Korean cuisine; some are Korean natives who came to see if this place could put a new spin on familiar favorites; and some (or perhaps most) were drawn in by the endless rave reviews you can find online. Tacos, barbeque banh mis and kimchi
fries are just a few of the most popular options. The first bite of any item elicits the strange and satisfying reaction of, “Of course these things go together! How has no one else done this before?” The best fusion cuisine can achieve this, the sense that these two dishes, separated by continents and oceans, were always meant to be combined. Other Chicago fusion highlights include En Hakkore, the go-to spot for Instagrammable sushi burritos; Carnivale, a multicolored explosion of Latin fusion; and Table, Donkey and Stick, a peculiar and yet somehow comforting take on Alpine European fusion. All three of these places are beloved, which might be a testament to taking risks, to going outside your comfort zone or to being open-minded. I personally think fusion is the epitome of all three, and I look forward to the next wave of innovative chefs who break onto the scene with their own syntheses, informed by personal experience, cultural exploration and fearless creativity.
2024
15
FLIGHTS
SALTY & SAVORY
story by sarah serota
takes on ice cream Self-proclaimed ice cream connoisseur investigates the sweetest (and saltiest) ice cream shops
16
2024
FLIGHTS
design by lavanya subramanian photos by libby raymond FOR THE PAST two summers, I worked as an ice cream scooper at a handcrafted ice cream shop, Smitty’s Homemade Ice Cream in Cape Cod, Massachusetts. This summer job resulted in a fatal consequence: I became an
ice cream snob, deeply addicted to the sweet treat. Evanston’s chronically cold winters hardly resemble the summer heat ideal for consuming my favorite guilty pleasure; however, as a self-proclaimed
kilwins LOYAL CUSTOMERS KNOW the famous American chain for its handcrafted chocolates, fudges and flavorful ice creams. Stepping into Kilwins feels like entering a candy shop in Disney World as a kid: pungent, sugary scents waft throughout the space and homemade treats line the shelves. Their Sea-Salt Caramel ice cream enriches a typically subtle vanilla bean flavor with salty decadence. Thick salted caramel sauce ripples through the scoop with a fine chocolate caramel crunch mixed in the base. Sea-Salt Caramel perfectly pairs with a fresh waffle cone, adding more texture to the silky dessert. However, the waffle cone is fragile, which I learned the hard way: the ice cream cone crashed and fell onto the pavement approximately three minutes after I received my scoop.
frío gelato THE BRIGHT, MODERN gelato location brings the traditional Argentine treat to the streets of Evanston. The store combines the powers of a usually sweet snack with savory tastes to produce a miraculous product. Frío Gelato features unique flavors inspired by Argentine tradition: Cheese and Honey, Avocado and Dulce de Leche Cheesecake. The Mascarpone con Frambuesa is a light, tart mascarpone cheese base with fresh fruity undertones of raspberry jelly swirling throughout the gelato. The flavor resembles a creamy slice of raspberry cheesecake, combining the coolness of refreshing ice cream with the richness of cheesecake.
ice cream aficionado, I could not help but explore Evanston’s ample ice cream shops. Their flavors explore the savory and salty elements of the traditionally sweet treat.
hartigan’s ice cream shoppe HARTIGAN’S TRANSPORTS ICE cream eaters back in time with its classic parlor decor. Vintage signs cover the store’s walls, and 1950s diner-style booths deck the room. The wide selection of flavors tickles any ice cream lover’s fantasy. Peanut Butter & Chocolate Ecstasy highlights the salty undertone of a classic peanut butter flavor. The ice cream has an intense cocoa flavor with the sweet notes of a milk chocolate candy bar shining through. Ribbons of dark chocolate embellish the base with a hidden treasure of peanut butter cups. The peanut butter’s salty essence contrasts with the sweet-like-candy chocolate ice cream.
homer’s restaurant & ice cream HOMER’S HAS MADE their own ice cream, creating innovative, delicious flavors for their customers. Located in Wilmette, Illinois, just north of Evanston, Homer’s is a hidden gem for Northwestern ice cream connoisseurs. The restaurant is half dedicated to classic American cuisine: burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches and more. The other side of the restaurant celebrates their mouthwatering homemade ice cream. Their Cappuccino Chip coffee flavor offers a savory, slightly bitter, undertone, enhanced with a sugary aftertaste. The flavor from the Kona Coffee juxtaposes the mocha chips scattered throughout each scoop to establish a flawless balance between sweet and salty.
2024
17
FLIGHTS
story by jenna friedman & nina petrouski
As self-proclaimed sweet wine connoisseurs, we present six delicious wine and cheese pairings
Sau vig non Bl a n c &e e s e Blu ebe rry Go a t C h
Ro s e P r o s e cc
Brie & o
san e Mos cato & Pa r m 18
2024
While this isn’t exactly a sweet and salty pairing, we thought we would be doing the readers a disservice by not trying the infamous Trader Joe’s blueberry goat cheese. The tanginess of the goat cheese pairs well with the sweetness of the blueberry and vanilla flavors, and the less-dynamic sauvignon blanc with similar tangy, citrusy undertones allows each bite to shine. This cheese is a legit dessert experience; its fruitiness and richness mimic a bite of cheesecake. If that flavor explosion becomes a bit overpowering, the sauvignon blanc’s crispness and notes of lemon cut right through it.
The exceptionally rich triple cream brie perfectly complements the bubbliness and fruitiness of the prosecco (extra points for how cute the bottle is!), creating such a satisfying texture contrast. This Trader Joe’s brie is bold and pungent, but feel free to pick out whichever brie you like best and we can assure you it will work with the sweet prosecco. We strongly recommend enhancing the experience by adding fig jam or prosciutto– you can’t go wrong with more sweet and salty, and these ingredients add much more depth to the pairing. The robust flavor of the brie perfectly juxtaposes with the sweetness of the fig jam.
The incredibly sweet and sugary wine and the salty, dry cheese are the perfect compliment for each other: a yin and yang moment, if you will. Parmesan is a nutty and salty cheese with a very rigid, gritty texture, while moscato is essentially the candy of wine. This moscato is so sweet, we can’t even distinguish the notes. So, if you like wine that doesn’t actually taste like wine, definitely reach for this one. This pairing is all the proof you need that opposites really do attract, trust us.
FLIGHTS
When it comes to sweet and salty, our go-to combination is a sweet wine and salty cheese pairing. In order to find the duos with the most cohesive flavors, and those that won’t break the bank on a college student budget, we headed to Trader Joes. Below are the six most tasty and affordable wine and cheese pairings to fuel all your charcuterie cravings.
design by alicia gu photos by jenna friedman & nina petrouski
This pairing is unexpectedly phenomenal! The caveaged blue cheese is very strong and bitter with a pungent flavor and smell. However, the wine perfectly balances it out. On the lighter side of the red wine spectrum, its sweet and fruity flavor provides notes of blackberries, raspberries and strawberries. While blue cheese is definitely an acquired taste, we agreed that even if you couldn’t taste the cheese or wine by themselves, it is a worthwhile try as a pairing. Together, they are perfection.
Swe et Re d
While most rieslings are super sweet, this one was on the drier side with subtly sweet undertones. It’s citrusy and floral with notes of lemon and honeycomb and pairs well with the creamy texture and intense sharpness and saltiness of the cheddar. This cheddar stands really great on its own for snacking purposes (and we always have a block in our fridge), but the riesling pairing takes it to the next level. For any readers who enjoy milder, less pungent flavors than some of the other combinations, this one’s for you!
Dr y Riesling &
The pinot has distinctive cherry aromas and tastes a bit toasty, which works really well with the creaminess and smokiness of the gouda. In terms of texture, the gouda’s richness is balanced out by the dryness of the crisp wine. Both are mild in nature and together, they offer a lighter, yet slightly smoky and warm pairing, perfect for a cozy night in. If you’re feeling inspired, pinot noir is versatile, and we would also recommend pairing it with parmesan!
Wine & Blu e Cheese
Pinot Noir &
Cheddar
Gou 2024
da 19
FLIGHTS
story by emily lichty
design by alex hoffmann
S H A P E S to Dip intoMilkshakes
Yes, it matters.
It is not peanut butter and pretzels
or maple syrup and bacon,but french fries and milkshakes which make the most elite sweet and salty combo out there. There is nothing like dipping a warm, crispy fry into a freezing cold, creamy shake. If you
are skeptical, you clearly haven’t tried this classic combo. But, fry shape and milkshake flavor do matter. The fry needs the proper amount of scoop-ability, and the milkshake flavor needs to
1
perfectly pair with a starchy fry. I tried several combinations and prepared my top choices.So, here are the top 4 combinations to make this already delicious combo even better.
Chocolate Shake and Curly Fries Chocolate shakes are the best milkshake choice
for a fry-dipping combination, period (bonus points if it is a chocolate frosty from Wendy’s). So, they get paired with this combination’s golden child: curly fries. Their curl creates the perfect scoop ability level for the shake while also maintaining a fry’s classic crispiness that a waffle fry cannot.
2
Vanilla Shake and Waffle Fries The waffle fry does deserve an honorable mention here for the most superior scoop capabilities. Plus, it balances out the vanilla’s shake simplicity with a higher fry ratio. Feeling extra fancy? Use two waffle fries to make a vanilla milkshake sandwich: mind = blown.
Strawberry Shake and Sweet Potato Fries Stick with me here. This combination
3
takes two underdogs and mixes them together to make something truly outstanding. While I would love to dip my sweet potato fries in a cinnamon milkshake (how amazing does that sound?!) I have never once encountered one on my (many) milkshake adventures. So, I settled for a close second: the strawberry milkshake. This sweet and salty combination leans heavily on the sweet. But, I’ll never apologize for that.
20
2024
4
Oreo Shake and Thick-Cut Fries
While you might think
that oreo milkshakes are too complex for a milkshake dip, think again. If you find the right fry, it is possible to dip into this extra thick milkshake (you just might want a spoon on the side, too). I love a classic chocolate milkshake dip every once and a while, but the oreo shake is the perfect way to spice it up sometimes.
FLIGHTS
design by pat chutijirawong
story by jason stokes
EVANSTON EATS
5 MUST TRY GLUTEN-FREE SPOTS FOR ALL OCCASIONS
A comprehensive list of the perfect places to bring your gluten-free friend, mom, professor, or self For gluten-free eaters, finding a place to
C U P I TO L
THE BARN
BAT17
eat can be tough. But fear not! Evanston is full of restaurants, cafés and even ice Whether cream parlors serving up gluten-less bringing a laptop and delights to satisfy your cravings. hunkering down to work, or Stop by one of these spots and meeting with a friend, this local treat yourself to the stress-free café chain is one to hit. Boasting meal you know you deserve. fluffy gluten-free pancakes and waffles, gluten-friendly pastries and homemade bread for their artisanal sandwiches, Cupitol is much more than a quick fix of Sometimes daily caffeine. Perfect For: Breakfast the perfect night with friends, mid-morning study entails sitting at a pub, break. burger in hand, watching the This no-frills Chicago‘Cats or Packers on the TV. For style steakhouse won’t those nights, Bat17 is the go-to. Get dazzle you with pastries or a gluten-free beer or a soda and an artisanal bread. Instead, a highly award-winning burger on a pillowy, coveted reservation in this 1883 gluten-free bun baked fresh at repurposed barn delivers elegant drinks Rose’s Bakery and unwind for the and melt-in-your-mouth meat, for both night. Perfect For: casual the gluten-loving and gluten-avoiding night out, dinner with crowds alike. friends. Perfect For: Company dinner, date night, parents visiting.
P
AT O
OO
2024
NO
F RI O G E L
ON
This quaint “gelatería” offers an extensive, entirely glutenfree list of unique Argentinian gelato flavors including Horchata, Banana Split and many other seasonal and year-round delights. The shop was founded with allergyfriendliness at the forefront of its mission, and its delicious dairy definitely delivers. Perfect For: Sweet treat.
If you’ve spent any time in Evanston, there’s a good chance you’ve heard of Pono Ono Poke. This spot is small but mighty, a fast-casual staple with plants lining the walls. And if the botanical decor wasn’t enough to draw you in already, then the (nearly) entirely gluten-free menu offering poke and fried chicken bowls will do the trick. Go grab the umami-packed “The Spicy Tuna Poke” bowl next time you’re running errands. You won’t regret it. Perfect For: Quick lunch, takeout.
21
ENTREES
story by annie fingersh
the sweet and salty of
This famed bakery has been around for 37 years — but does it live up to the hype?
C
hiu Quon Bakery has been a staple of the Chicago community since 1986 when Joyce Chiu’s parents founded it. With two locations, one on Wentworth Ave. in Chinatown and one on Argyle St., the bakery has served traditional Chinese and modern baked goods for 37 years. Now, the next generation has taken the lead as Chiu and her brother coown the bakery together. I was delighted to see the wide array of goods on my visit to Chiu Quon Bakery, but was particularly excited to try the famed barbecue pork bun, one of Chiu’s favorites. As one of their most beloved baked goods, I had high expectations for the baked barbecue pork bun, and I was not disappointed. The dough was yeasty with a nice egg wash crust on top, and the succulent filling definitely hit the mark for sweet and salty. My only wish was to have tried this bun straight from the oven!
Wintermelon moon cake
22
2024
Another classical baked good they serve is the winter melon mooncake. The pastry surrounding the filling on this mooncake was nicely thin and buttery which complemented the flavor of the filling well. The winter melon filling had a mild melon flavor, similar to honeydew, and while the pulpy texture might not be for everyone, I certainly enjoyed it. A more modern pastry that I tried at the bakery was the ham and egg bun, which was a nice addition to the more classic baked goods I tried. The dough was similar to the barbeque pork bun’s dough, the egg inside was deliciously
The famed barbeque pork bun
ENTREES
design by erin jeon photos by cole reynolds fluffy and the ham added a nice salty aspect. This would be a great breakfast food, especially if you’re able to try it warm. After just one bite, another one of Chiu’s favorites, the Portuguese egg tart, quickly became my favorite. The tart’s crust was probably the most flaky and buttery pastry I’ve ever had and kept me returning for bite after bite. The egg filling was light, airy and smooth beyond belief with an addicting hint of rich sweetness and caramelization on the top. This pastry alone is enough to make me go back! With so many bakeries in Chinatown and all over Chicago, for that matter, why is Chiu Quon so acclaimed? Chiu says what makes her family’s bakery stand out among others is the “healthy
Coconut cream bun
balance” between tradition and modernity when it comes to their baked goods. They have managed to preserve many traditional recipes and techniques over time, and they have adapted to more modern tastes with new, inventive pastries.
The bakery has gained acclaim over recent years and as more people from outside the community try their goods, Chiu says she likes “to be able to share a part or a part of [her] culture,” through the common love language of food. But, as the bakery becomes more popular, Chiu says she often thinks about why it was started. She says back then, “it was…about feeding the people in the community,” and giving them a taste of home, which is still incredibly important to her. So, if you’re craving the nostalgic taste of a classic Chinese pastry, or you’ve never even tried one, I would recommend Chiu Quon Bakery for the perfect sweet or salty bite.
However, Chiu says that it’s important to her to remember and preserve the way the bakery used to be. This is why they continue to make traditional pastries, use high-quality ingredients and sell their goods at a low cost to maintain accessibility.
But, as the bakery becomes more bakery becomes more popular, Chiu says she often thinks about why it was started. She says back then, “it was…about feeding the people in the community,” and giving them a taste of home, which is still incredibly important to her. So, if you’re craving the nostalgic taste of a classic Chinese pastry, or you’ve never even tried one, I would recommend Chiu Quon Bakery for the perfect sweet or salty bite.
Portuguese egg tart
2024
23
ENTREES
story by cassie sun
the
paradox of sugar in chinese cooking
E
The best Chinese desserts are hailed for being “not too sweet,” yet Chinese cooking has a history of using rock sugar to enhance the flavors of traditional savory dishes
very Chinese baker knows the greatest compliment you can receive is the words “not too sweet.” East Asian desserts often teeter on the edge between sweet and savory—think mooncakes, egg tarts, sesame balls or your favorite dim sum treats. But paradoxically, a hint of sweetness appears in the most unexpected of places, whether it’s traditional Cantonese BBQ pork buns or the beloved Panda Express orange chicken. Types of Sugar Classic Westernized Chinese dishes—from teriyaki chicken to lo mein—are deeply enticing partly because of the sticky-sweet, tangy sauce that glazes the dish. Yet Americanized Chinese food, while delicious, is a far cry from authentic Chinese cooking— and so is its sugar. In traditional Chinese cooking, granulated sugar is swapped for rock sugar, a near-transparent crystal form of
24
2024
sugar that dates back to the Tang Dynasty. Yellow rock sugar is used in many braised meat dishes. At Evanston’s own Peppercorn’s Kitchen, Head Chef Chenggang Yu uses the ingredient in hong shao rou, or braised pork belly. According to Yu, dishes that use rock sugar are not “cloyingly sweet,” in contrast to white sugar, which has a saccharine profile with more room to overpower a dish. “White sugar is only sweet, there’s not much other taste,” Yu said in Chinese. “Rock sugar carries an aftertaste that evokes more nuanced senses.” The distinctions between sugars stem from their production. Rock sugar is made from the melting and cooling of sugar, resulting in its crystalline
structure. When added to dishes, granulated sugar is dispersed into the oil, cooking faster. In contrast, the large crystals of the rock sugar allow it to break down slower, melding into the ingredients and delivering a richer flavor to the dish.
ENTREES
design by grace herzog
At Peppercorn, 5-spice pork, yellow rock sugar and spices are simmered together for nearly two hours until the meat is sticky, smoky, sweet, salty, and umami— an explosion of flavor made possible by the concoction of contrasting components. “In cooking, each dish has a distinct, individual flavor,” Yu said. “Just like how each finger in your hand is a different, unique length, each dish requires a precise amount of sugar.” Choice & Versatility Picky eaters, fear no longer. The versatility of Chinese cuisine allows for a game of choose-yourown-adventure at each meal. Chinese street food, in particular, can often be made sweet just as easily as it can be made salty. Take douhua, a warm tofu pudding that is served with different toppings depending on the region of China. In Northern China, the pudding is often eaten
for breakfast and is dressed with savory gravy and dried wood ear mushrooms, bringing an earthy taste to the dish. Duohua takes on a sugary twist in the South, where it sits in a sweet syrup often infused with jasmine or ginger. For a kick, China’s spice capital, Sichuan, delivers a uniquely spicy version of the pudding complete with chili oil. Douhua follows a pattern in Chinese cuisine that allows versatility in food to blossom: a neutral base that can be topped, filled, drizzled with or drenched in savory or sweet flavors. One particular filling commonly used to adapt a savory bread or pastry into its sweet cousin is red bean paste. Packed into the center of mooncakes, buns and zongzi, or glutinous rice
wrapped in bamboo leaves, the popular ingredient has a nutty and mellow taste resembling a slowbaked, creamy sweet potato. The richness of Chinese cuisine is undoubtedly owed to a profound understanding and appreciation for the delicate balance between salt, sugar and spice. Next time you grab dim sum or stop by Peppercorn’s Kitchen, try the sweet, the savory and the dishes that are a kaleidoscope of both— your taste buds will thank you.
2024
25
ENTREES
story by grace herzog photos courtesy of nu dining
BEHIND THE SCENES OF ELDER HALL A look at the chefs and staff who prepare food for Elder Dining Hall Northwestern’s Dining Halls are open seven days a week to produce food for the student body. But beyond the precision of mass food production, dining halls at Northwestern aim to cultivate a welcoming
environment through the food served and culture created. At Elder Dining Hall, the staff possess a passion for cooking and preparing food that reminds students of their home.
adriana addrita In her ten years working remains ever present in in Northwestern’s Dining Halls, Allison and Elder, Adriana Addrita has scanned thousands of students’ wildcards. In Addrita’s current role as a Food Service Worker, she busses tables, refills coffee stations and prepares the omelet bar at Elder. However, through all her responsibilities across the years, Addrita’s favorite part of the job—swiping in students—never changed. “I feel like Northwestern Dining is my home, in a way,” Addrita said. “The atmosphere is very cheerful and all the staff are laughing and hanging out—we all care about and like our work.” While food is at the focal point of her professional life, it also
26
2024
Addrita’s personal life as a reminder of her culture and Mexican traditions. As NU Dining celebrated Hispanic Heritage Month through food and music in the dining halls, Addrita found comfort in the food prepared and reflected on her own memories with Mexican cuisine. “Wherever I go, I will always remember Mexican food, which for me is pozole,” Addrita said. “I love pozole, because it reminds me of my country, what my traditions are and my culture—all of that reminds me of what Mexico is for me. And being far away from Mexico, I can remember it with a plate of pozole, and that is what I like most about food and what I want for students at Northwestern.”
ENTREES
design by alex hoffmann
thomas breitsprecher Behind the Kosher station at Elder Breitsprecher held his own childhood is Chef Thomas Breitsprecher, a Northwestern alum and chef at Northwestern Dining for over forty years. When chefs receive the meal layout for each month’s meals, Breisprecher cooks the recipes in his own time to better fit Elder’s kitchen set up and perfect the food. Although the recipes can be repetitive, Breitsprecher finds new ways to incorporate his creativity into the dishes he cooks. Breitsprecher puts emphasis on making a dish his own, even down to the little details like the way food is cut. “I’m always being exposed to new things, because the instructions and recipes aren’t always precise. Even though it’s a set-menu, you’re still not cooking the same menu day after day,” Breitsprecher said. “It lets me express my artistic and creative side through cutting vegetables, adding an extra contrast in colors in the pan or by building a dish.” Using the lessons learned from working at Northwestern Dining, Breitsprecher began to make elaborate dishes for his family, weaving in new foods to celebrate someone’s birthday or during Thanksgiving. Through it all,
memories with food close to him when cooking for leisure or for others. “Food has always been something really special to me, even when I was a kid,” Breitsprecher said. “Like baking
Christmas cookies—my mom used to do it, and even before I was ten I would be helping her, and then I wanted to get into making cookies on my own. I try to bring that—my first introduction to the kitchen—into cooking here.”
visiting elder Overall, the staff and chefs’ passion by to build their own omelet or simply and attitude at Elder reflect in the food made and atmosphere of the dining hall. For the students who stop
grab a bite to eat after classes, be sure to say hi to Adriana at the entrance or complement Tom’s cooking at Kosher.
2024
27
ENTREES
Wide World of Toast
story & photos by abby cowan
Four sweet and savory toast recipes to make at home
A slice of toasted bread is an often cook’s overlooked breakfast staple – a side dish to your scramble, a humble foundation for butter or jam. But its potential goes far beyond these common iterations. Toast is a versatile vehicle for the culinary combinations of your dreams. Home cooks and professional chefs alike have been harnessing this potential in recent years, posting their innovative combinations on social media and putting them on restaurant menus everywhere. Toast is a representation of the home
opportunity to turn something simple into a culinary masterpiece, fit to be enjoyed at any time of day. Topping options don’t have to stop at avocado mash or pb&j, they can be sweet, salty or both – creamy, crunchy, crumbly or all of the above. Here are four sweet and salty toast topping combinations to convince you that toast is an ideal canvas for your culinary creations.
Stracciatella. Peach. Prosciutto. You know the ultra rich, milky, soft cheese inside
of a ball of burrata? That’s stracciatella. Spread a generous layer on the toast and top with loosely folded prosciutto, thinly sliced peaches, and basil leaves. A sprinkle of flaky sea salt and a drizzle of honey take this toast to the next level. The salty prosciutto cuts through the richness of the stracciatella, and sweet peaches brighten the dish. Enjoy during late summer, when stone fruits are in season.
28
2024
ENTREES
design by gillian nieh
Ricotta. Strawberries. Balsamic. Pepper. Basil. Don’t knock this one until you try it.
Macerate sliced strawberries in balsamic vinegar and a pinch of sugar and black pepper for about 10 minutes. While the strawberries sit, toast the bread and whip the ricotta until fluffy, adding a drizzle of honey, lemon zest, and salt. Spread the ricotta
mixture on the toast, top with a generous helping of the balsamic strawberries and a few fresh basil leaves. The creamy ricotta balances out the bite of the strawberries, and glues them onto the toast. The acidic vinegar and spicy black pepper bring out the sweetness and strawberry flavor, creating a flavor explosion in your mouth.
Labneh. Soft boiled egg. Za’atar. Pickled onions. Labneh is a Middle Eastern cheese made
by straining yogurt, resulting in a thick and creamy spread. It’s tart – similar to greek yogurt – perfectly suited for the rich, runny yolk of a soft boiled egg. Spread labneh on toast, place the egg on top, and season with a drizzle of olive oil and za’atar, a Middle Eastern spice blend commonly made with toasted sesame seeds, sumac, oregano, thyme and salt. It’s savory and nutty and the toasted sesame seeds add a crunch to the creamy labneh. Top with a picked vegetable like onions or turnips for a briny bite.
Avocado. Soy fried egg. Chili. Scallion. Sesame. Frying an egg in sauce like soy,
a salty flavor and lay it atop sliced avocado. Top it with spicy chili oil, scallion, and sesame seeds for a filling savory toast option.
Try these combinations to jazz
idea of a flavorful addition to a simple slice of bread is not unique in itself. By using your favorite ingredients, you can transform an unassuming staple into a flavorful, balanced meal.
balsamic or pesto instantly transforms its flavor. In this version of avocado toast, fry your egg in soy sauce for
up your toast at home, and explore variations on toast in cultures all over the world. From pan con tomate in Spain to kaya toast in Singapore, the
2024
29
ENTREES
story by reece dubin
STORY OF A SUGAR SCULPTOR An ode to the showpiece
“When I started [pastry] it up wasn’t a glamorous job. […] It was a technical job that people didn’t really want to do. Then TV shows, social media, and all those sorts of things started to arise. Now everybody wants to be a pastry chef.” It was in London, in 2021, that I first met Nicholas Houchet, who was one of the teaching chefs at Le Cordon Bleu London. Along with his work for the school, Houchet competes at the highest levels of pastry showpiece competition, the art form captured most recently in the public eye by Netflix’s School of Chocolate. Recently I got the to listen to Houchet tell me about his story of his time in the art: “I started [working in showpieces] in 1998. At the time, showpieces and art in pastry was […] limited to croquembouche and wedding cakes really. […] I wasn’t that much into it until my teacher at the time pushed me to do my first competition. I went along with it, and I ended
30
2024
finishing second at the Festival National de Croquembouche. From there, I got into a few more competitions, but then I stopped because I moved to the UK.” By the time that I crossed paths with Houchet in the UK he had already returned to the competition scene. Houchet has since competed multiple times as the sugar candidate for team UK in the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie, the world’s biggest pastry competition. This year, Houchet and team UK competed with a piece themed around climate change: “We had [this] woman which represents humanity, […] ashes and destruction, but at the same time beauty, [and] on the other side you have symbols of climate change. We went on to […] this concept of humanity trying to reach for a school of turtles […] and then all around there [were] bleached corals. […] It was all very conceptual and philosophical at the same time.”
ENTREES
design by cammi tirico photos courtsey of nicholas houchet
Houchet and his team’s pieces are stunning and they are certainly labors of love with an emphasis on the labor part. The process begins with an initial plan. Then, as Houchet explained to me: “As you go along you realize there are laws of physics unfortunately which stop you from doing certain things. You start to scale down, but then you have a breakthrough. […] This whole back and forth takes about 9 months. [...] In the last month you’re onto combat mode. You take your whole holiday, run after run after run to try and perfect your timing: all the tasting, and all the cakes, the ice carving [and] everything else because [the product is] not just the showpieces. This month is quite punishing. It’s a lovely experience, but you need to be ready to give some of yourself.” Finally, the whole process culminates in the competition itself. “[At competition] we got an hour and a half to unpack. [... You’re] back to [your] hotel at around 10:30, 11pm then [you] setup your clock for 330am. They pick you up at four […]
to do another extra half an hour of prep at 5:30, and the start of the competition is at 6am. [...The competition] is 10 consecutive hours. […] Its akin to running a marathon, but a 10 hour marathon, not a four hour one. Once it starts [you] really try and smile and have fun. 10 long hours, its draining, its punishing but […] time flies so fast once you’re into it [and] this is what you’ve been training for for 9, 12 months.” As I listened to Houchet talk, I was struck by how much his attitude to pastry was really an attitude to life. When asked about how he learned his favorite techniques, Houchet responded: “Keep doing it, again, again, and again. [Do] it and [be] critical: this is too thick, this is better than the last one but not good enough. [Take] breaks [because] hitting a brick wall doesn’t help. [S]ometimes just taking a few steps back, [doing] something else, and coming back to it, makes you jump over the brick wall rather than breaking it.” *This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
2024
31
ENTREES
story by lucy hederick
the five foundational tastes What makes salty salty, and sweet sweet?
32
2024
ENTREES
design by gretchen raedle photo by avalon bookstaver Have
you
ever
wondered how chefs create new recipes completely from scratch? Or why a pinch of salt enhances dark chocolate or a squeeze of lime juice brightens the flavor of pad Thai? Humans can taste five basic qualities: sweet, salty, sour, bitter and umami. While creating a dish well balanced in flavor requires the correct ratios of each taste quality, at their root, these taste qualities evolved from all animals as protection against ingesting harmful toxins in the environment. Dr. Hojoon Lee, a professor of neurobiology and associate director of the M.S. program in neurobiology at Northwestern University, runs a lab exploring the neurobiology of taste. Specifically, Dr. Lee’s lab investigates taste receptor cell formation and innate responses to the five basic taste qualities. An expert in the field, Dr. Lee elucidated how and why humans taste, and explained his ongoing research into why certain taste qualities complement each other. “The taste system elicits very stereotypical hardwired behaviors. You make facial expressions from tasting something sour, that other people can recognize” Lee said. “Bitter makes us spit it out or even retch. Sweet things make us continue to lick… This happens even if most of our brain is gone.” Humans detect tastes through taste buds on the surface of the tongue. According to Lee, “In a taste bud, you have about 25 cells. Each of those cells detects one taste quality.” Every taste cell has a matching neuron which, upon ingestion of a morsel of food, sends a signal up to the brain, where it is processed to create the
perception of taste. Unlike other senses such as hearing and sight, a person’s sense of taste can be lost and still return, albeit slowly and over time. Lee told the story of Grant Achatz, the head chef at a well-renowned restaurant in Chicago called Alinea. Chef Achatz underwent aggressive chemotherapy to treat a rare form of cancer and lost his sense of taste as a result. Lee explained how Chef Achatz’s taste “came back sequentially. So he could taste sweet first, and then many weeks later, he could start tasting sour. Then, many weeks later, he could start tasting bitter.” Taste cells live for about two weeks before dying off and being replaced. The new taste cell that grows in the dead one’s place may not detect the same taste quality as the previous cell. Dr. Lee clarified, “So if a salty cell dies, then in its place, it’s not that you always get a salty cell back. You might get a bitter cell in its place.” Neurons for specific taste qualities must play hide-and-seek with new taste cells, searching for their corresponding taste quality to make a connection that will be used to transmit taste signals to the brain. Lee addressed the common misconception that each of the five taste qualities are detected by a different region on the tongue: bitter in the back, sour and salty along the sides, sweet in the front and umami in the middle. “A given taste bud has the entire collection of the five taste cells” Lee said. “If you take a random taste bud, in there you’ll find taste cells for all
five taste qualities… the regional biases are not as profound or distinct as people make [them].” Based on their evolutionary niches, animals may experience the five taste qualities differently. For example, Lee explained, birds do not have the ability to taste sweet foods, but hummingbirds are drawn to sugar water. Researchers investigating this contradiction found that while hummingbirds do not have sweet taste receptors, they do have umami taste receptors, which have evolved to detect sweets. As. Lee pointed out with a laugh, “To a hummingbird, sugar water might actually taste like meat!” The perception of taste and taste preferences are highly complex topics and may be influenced by factors beyond the neural circuitry of the brain. For example, bacteria living in the mouth are hypothesized to play a role in attenuating taste perceptions and perhaps even affecting the taste preferences of their host. Ultimately, much still remains to be discovered regarding human taste perceptions and preferences. In fact, Dr. Lee’s lab is actively studying why certain combinations of the five taste qualities complement each other to create richer flavor. He said, “We’re doing some studies in the taste buds, in the taste receptor cells, to see if, let’s say, a pinch of salt will enhance the sensitivity to sweet.”
2024
33
DESSERTS
story by alexia kadota-browner
design by erin jeon Northwestern campus dietitian Madeline McDonough shares the healthiest ways to intake both ingredients NORTHWESTERN DINING OFFERS complimentary nutrition counseling services and guidance for students and the NU community from registered dietitian nutritionist Madeline McDonough, MS, RDN, LDN. McDonough’s role is dedicated to helping people where they are to achieve a healthier lifestyle through nutrition, mindful eating, and physical activity. In this interview, she shares more specifics about the role of sugar and salt in our everyday diets.
*This interview has been edited for Q: What are the best/healthiest length and clarity. forms to consume sugars in? A: Our diet is made up of two main Q: When you think of sugar, what kinds of sugar: naturally occurring foods come to mind? and added. Naturally occurring A: Sugar molecules are the building sugars come from whole food blocks of carbohydrates which sources such as fruits, vegetables, provide more than half of our body’s beans, legumes and whole grains. energy needs. There are many Added sugars are added to foods different types of foods that contain during processing. Major sources carbohydrates, and, by extension, of added sugar in the American sugar—fruits, breads, grains, pasta, diet include sugar-sweetened legumes, starchy vegetables (corn, beverages, desserts and some peas and potatoes) as well as grains. Naturally occurring sugars snack foods, desserts, sauces and tend to be more nutrient-dense condiments. and higher in fiber. Whole foods with added sugar tend to add less Q: Why is sugar important in our nutrition, but they can still be part everyday diet? of a healthy and varied diet. A: Even though sugar gets a bad rap, it is actually key for making sure Q: When is the ideal time to that our body is up and running consume sugar/sugary foods? properly. Most foods contain A: Ideally when you are consuming carbohydrates which are made up sugar in any form, at any time, it’s of various sugars - that includes best to ensure there is a protein and vegetables! Carbohydrates serve as fat present to minimize spikes in the body’s main energy source and blood sugar. help to fuel our brain, kidney and Q: Why is salt important in our liver. everyday diet? Q: How much sugar is too much A: Salt, often used interchangeably (for an average daily diet)? with “sodium,” plays a critical role A: The American Heart Association in the body as an electrolyte. It is recommends no more than 6 an essential mineral that helps with teaspoons of added sugar per day the balance of fluid in the body, for women and children and 9 blood pressure maintenance as teaspoons per day for men. well as nerve/muscle function.
34
2024
Q: How much salt is too much (for an average daily diet)? A: The National Institutes of Health recommends 2300 milligrams of daily sodium which is equivalent to about 1 teaspoon. Q: What are the best/healthiest forms to consume salt? A: There are many nutrient dense foods that contain higher levels of sodium. These can include: nut butters, fermented foods like kimchi or sauerkraut, olives, some canned seafood like salmon or sardines and cottage cheese. These food items contribute sodium but also have numerous other health benefits. Q: When is the ideal time to consume salt/salty foods? A: For those who are undergoing rigorous exercise and/or are at risk of dehydration, ensuring the balance of electrolytes (like sodium) is key. If this is the case, consuming food that contains sodium and/ or drinks that contain electrolytes (coconut water) is appropriate. To schedule a personalized nutrition counseling session with Madeline McDonough, you can email her at dietitian@ northwestern. edu.
from
DESSERTS
design by grace wu
to
Transforming treats from sweet to spectacular
story by alara gul
S
weet treats often follow a nice, hearty meal. However, most sweet treats almost require a dusting of finishing salt to achieve their most satisfying effects. To me, this is the ultimate product of sweet and salty, the perfect sensory combination to leave on my taste buds after any meal. Nonetheless, the idea of adding salt to sweet foods probably seems counterintuitive to a more casual eater. My personal favorites include a warm chocolate chip cookie and gooey brownies. Neither would be complete without a slight pinch of salt to top off the mouthwatering, sugary flavors. This is because an essential property of salt is to enhance the flavors of any dish. Salt makes food more palatable by suppressing bitterness. No wonder why the burnt flavor of caramel or the bitter richness of dark chocolate pair so well with light salt sprinkle. Flaky sea salt specifically serves this purpose. Salt flakes dissolve faster in the mouth than normal salt, and they do not disturb the full sweetness of any dessert. Not only are they chemically conducive to a dessert’s satisfaction, but a sparse flurry of flaky salt is aesthetically pleasing on any dessert, as well. Desserts are naturally sweeter than any other dish, but they definitely aren’t exempt to the principles of salt followed by any main course. But, using salt properly requires full attention to balancing the flavors of any specific dish. For instance, salt would weaken the taste of jam-filled thumbprint cookies by emphasizing the fruit’s tartness rather than cutting its bitterness. Salted desserts should lie on the fattier, nuttier and more bitter end of the spectrum. Next time you bake a chocolatey, gooey treat, try experimenting with flaky salt to bring out the best flavors your dish can offer.
2024
35
DESSERTS
design by sydney newton photos by evelyn ahdieh
story by evelyn ahdieh & lara weissmann
PRETZELS: THE SNACK THAT
TWISTS IT ALL
TOGETHER We tried four different kinds of pretzels and put them head-to-head to pick a favorite
1
“THE ORIGINAL” DOTS REGULAR PRETZELS
First, the original seasoning. A classic,
this flavor packs a salty punch with a hint of heat. Dots pretzels come in the signature twist, allowing for more seasoning to be packed into every crevice of the pretzel. The “top secret” recipe makes the classic dots pretzel hard to mimic or find elsewhere, making it a truly unique find.
3
“THE CLASSIC” SNYDER’S SNAPS PRETZELS
This wouldn’t be a comprehensive pretzel
review if we didn’t include a classic: Snyder’s. We paired these simple pretzels with Nutella for an added sweetness. This combination was the perfect ratio of sweet to salty, and the crunchiness of Snyder’s pretzel balanced well with the creamy Nutella. The flat shape of the pretzel made it ideal for dipping. However, the pretzel did not exceed any of our other contestants.
36
2024
Pretzels are a timeless snack that can
fulfill any flavor craving. One pretzel brand that always comes to our minds is Dots. We grabbed both the original seasoning flavor and the cinnamon sugar flavor to see which type of this iconic brand really takes the cake.
2
“SALTY & SWEET” DOTS CINNAMON SUGAR PRETZELS
The cinnamon sugar flavor had the similar
attribute of being coated with a strong flavor in every bite. But while sweetness was strong it was not overwhelming, and the savory flavor of the pretzel still shone through. While delicious, there was nothing remarkable about this flavor, making the original Dots seasoning take home the gold.
4
“A TREAT”
FAVORITE DAY MILK CHOC. COVERED PRETZELS
Finally, we tried some milk chocolate covered
pretzels from Favorite Day. These pretzels were miniature, making them the perfect snack to eat in one bite. In a way, they felt like a simplified version of the Snyder’s and Nutella combo, offering both sweet and salty in one step. These pretzels are classic, delicious and easy to eat, receiving our number one ranking spot.
FAN FAVORITES
DESSERTS
with a
A
Soli Grill pushes the boundaries of plant-based dining pocketful of sunshine on Benson Ave, Soli Grill serves up comfort classics and elevated fare as Evanston’s latest (and greatest) plant-forward locale. From homemade “cheeses” to a Seabassless fish with scalloped potatoes, their from-scratch approach shines through every elegantly plated meal. The sister restaurant to sandwich staple Bat 17, Soli’s entirely vegan menu strays from the beaten path of faux meat alternatives and processed look-alikes. Executive chef Isaac Reyes applied his expansive culinary expertise to create innovative offerings, like a two-toned crispy bacon made in-house. Tacos al pastor, chorizo quesadillas and the Guajillo grilled chicken wrap came from the Latin kitchens of Reyes’ early career, with crepes and poached pear flatbread pulled from his traditional French training. Sushi rolls bursting with veggies and a tuna crispy rice appetizer were inspired by Reyes’ stint in Asian cooking. American favorites are not forgotten on Soli’s menu. BLTs, crab cakes, fried chicken and waffles and braised short rib — a recipe Reyes went through a painstaking process to perfect — satisfy cravings without skimping on health benefits. Coming out of the pandemic, Reyes became hyper aware of the healing power of food and resolved to make nourishment more accessible to the greater Evanston area. Reyes and chef Brianna Barber are on a constant quest to “give the people what they want” when it comes to their sweeping menu. The pair
frequently returns to the drawing board to test new flavor combinations, especially those inspired by seasonal ingredients. Barber’s pumpkin cheesecake resulted from these brainstorms and Reyes hopes to try his hand at vegan Beef Wellington. “In culinary school, you learn the foundations of cooking with sauces, spices and protein,” Barber said. “Coming here, you build on that.” Bartender Lauren Hailer went through a similar experimentation process in creating the restaurant’s show stopping cocktails. A Bat 17 veteran, Hailer worked with distributors to ensure every ingredient aligned with Soli’s values, down to a vegan Malibu rum alternative (the original includes a controversial sugar product) and glitter maple syrup. Hailer fashioned a riff on a New York Sour, a Japanese, whiskeybased Tokyo Sour, to complement the popular vegan tuna Roca roll. Photo-worthy whipped banana foam—a stand-in for egg whites atop fizz drinks and gin sours— proves the limitless possibilities of vegan drink replacement. Our meal at Soli featured the Tacos al Pastor and Plantain roll, both bursting with multifaceted flavor. Succulent pineapple balanced out the chili-spiced mushroom and onion taco fillings, served with traditional red beans and rice. Intrigued by the atypical plantain add-in, we scraped our plates clean of the sweet sauce reduction and delighted in the crunchy cucumber interior of the sushi roll. Though new to Evanston, Soli already amassed a dedicated
following. We spoke to an Evanston resident who is working her way through the entire brunch, lunch and dinner menu, and deemed the Portobello mushroom starter and glorified avocado sandwich musttries. Her pièce de résistance was the cayenne pepper carrot soup topped with an apple chip, which we devoured after her emphatic endorsement. Soli’s influence extends beyond their plant-adorned walls, with a limited menu at Bat 17. The restaurant plans to host more events and exclusive tastings to bring diners into the space and update the menu based on feedback. Reyes encourages customers to leave input so his team can churn out nothing but best sellers. “We can always do more,” Reyes said. “I have a lot of ideas and we’re never going to stop.” To say we left Soli Grill satiated would be an understatement. The warm environment, stellar hospitality and Reyes’ outstanding menu are the full restaurant package. Diners regardless of diet will find plenty of plant-based morsels to dig into, and leave feeling better for it.
DESSERTS story by zoe chao & marcus kim
which cheesecake
takes the cake? Take a bite of these indulgent cheesecakes with us at JR Dessert Bakery
1. Plain
This all-time classic is made with Philadelphia cream
cheese and baked in a water bath for that ultimate velvety texture. The sweetened custard is set atop a cookie crumb base, creating a symphony of indulgence within each bite. The recipe is original, descended from owner Natalie Kaplan’s mother who opened the bakery 44 years ago. In my opinion, nothing tops this classic!
2. Pumpkin
design by grace herzog photos by zoe chao & marcus kim From
the classic New York-style cheesecake to a less traditional, chocolate based take on cheesecake, the variations of cheesecake options are endless. To determine our favorite variation, we visited a local spot. Located in Lakewood, IL, JR Dessert Bakery is an iconic Chicago spot known best for their cheesecakes. This family bakery is a nowaste facility and uses all natural ingredients in their 43-year-old cheesecake recipe.
Pumpkin spice? We’re in! This Fall favorite is made with in-house pumpkin puree, topped with fresh whipped cream and a walnut coating. In comparison to the plain cheesecake, the pumpkin cheesecake is lighter, lifted by its slightly fruity and nutty flavorThe slight spice of the pumpkin blends with the cheese to create a comforting taste, warming your tastebuds and resembling another Thanksgiving staple–pumpkin pie.
3. Rasberry
The raspberry cheesecake i is a hands down staple for any
cheesecake connoisseur. The tartness of the raspberry with a mix of the sweetness cheesecake filling is a flavor explosion that leaves the mouth wanting more. The raspberry swirl print design is made through an intensive handmade process. For each raspberry cheesecake, every baker has to pour the raspberry puree into deposits, and then is hand pressed down to create the signature scarlet swirl. The fruity semi-sweet blend is a perfect pair with any warm drink in this chilly season.
4. Coffee Coffee
and cheesecake... together? The cappuccino cheesecake encapsulates the decadent flavors similar to a tiramisu and the fan-favorite plain cheesecake. The cappuccino cheesecake consists of Metropolis coffee roasters seeping into cheesecake with a chocolate cookie crumble on the surface. The cappuccio is an upscale specialty that is a dessert for any occasion.
38
2024
From the first forkful to
the last lingering taste, cheesecakes are an irresistible symphony of textures and flavors that transcend the boundaries of dessert. In particular, JR Bakery knows how to do it right and each cheesecake served is made with love. A huge thank you to Natalie Kaplan for showing us the ropes of what it takes to make a successful cheesecake business blossom. Each cheesecake presented was undoubtedly awesome, but we think the plain cheesecake with rich vanilla flavors takes the cake!
HUNGRY FOR MORE?
Looking for more delectable pop culture content? In need of a new Evanston go-to? Follow us on Instagram @spoon_nu and check out all our digital articles on our website.
FOLLOW @SPOON_NU ON INSTAGRAM
@bagelartcafe
@pono.ono.poke
@roisterchicago
@spoon_nu
@lecolonial_restaurants
@hokkaido_evanston
CHECK OUT OUR WEBSITE!
www.spoonuniversity. com/chapter/nu
2024
39