NO FORKS GIVEN
We’re putting down the utensils because it’s time to embrace eating with our hands.
SPRING 2022
OCKSER
ZOE D PHOTO BY
U N O O P S S O F 2 02 2 C LA S
Evanston eatery I’ll miss the most:
Good to Go Jamaican Favorite Spoon Memory: Filming What I Eat Wednesdays over the past four years!
Evanston eatery I’ll miss the most:
Newport Favorite Spoon Memory:
Bonding with spoon members and seeing my photo on the cover of the magazine!
Evanston eatery I’ll miss the most:
Backlot Favorite Spoon Memory:
Seeing my article in our print magazine for the first time freshman year
Evanston eatery I’ll miss the most:
Newport :( Favorite Spoon Memory:
Cookie decorating!
Evanston eatery I’ll miss the most:
Hewn Favorite Spoon Memory:
First time I submitted photos my sophomore year and seeing it online
Evanston eatery I’ll miss the most:
Cupitol Favorite Spoon Memory:
Spoon Bar Night, Spoon Fest and weekly meetings!
Evanston eatery I’ll miss the most:
Colectivo Favorite Spoon Memory:
Going to Taste of Evanston with Spoon and getting to try all the Evanston food with fellow spoonies! 2022
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from the editor
W
hen I was a sophomore in high school, I longed for a space to talk about food as it related to me. I was 16, religiously watched Cake Boss and spent my weekends experimenting in the kitchen. I didn’t want to read Food & Wine or learn how to cook from Food Network. I wanted to spend time with like-minded people my age who were just as passionate about the correct way to flip pancakes or make mac and cheese. I joined Spoon’s high school chapter in 2016 and I’m now saying goodbye to Spoon’s Northwestern chapter in 2022. I’ve spent six years as a member of Spoon University, and it’s been a formative experience for me. I met people from across the world, learned about cultures and cuisines different from mine and grew as a person, writer, editor and leader. Spoon also pushed me outside my culinary comfort zone — I no longer bake the same loaf of banana bread every week or order a dish I’ve had a million times at a restaurant. When I thought about our 2022 spring magazine — the No Forks Given Issue — I realized that it’s all about sharing food, stories, meals, experiences and recipes, which is exactly why I joined Spoon in the first place. Finger food encourages us to gather with friends old and new and spend time eating together in a casual, comfortable environment. Finger food is inherently fun. It has a way of reminding us not to take ourselves too seriously and to embrace greasy fingers, crumbs sprinkled down our shirts and sauce dripping down our chins. As I publish my last magazine as Spoon’s print editorial director, I’m only left with a feeling of gratitude, especially to the incredible team who brought this magazine to life. None of this is possible without every single one of you. Welcome to the No Forks Given Issue. I hope it brings a smile to your face and leaves you hungry for more. Never forks (for the last time!) Zoe Malin Print Editor
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ABOUT SPOON’S NORTHWESTERN CHAPTER We are Northwestern’s leading food publication and Spoon University’s founding chapter. Spoon University is a global community of young influencers shaping the future of food. For many of us, this is the first time we’re navigating our kitchens and dining out on our own. Spoon University is here to simplify and celebrate that. In addition to publishing a bi-annual print and digital magazine, Spoon consists of multiple teams: digital editorial, social media, photo, events, business and design. Each team works on projects related to food, drinks and restaurants, often highlighting local businesses and entrepreneurs in the culinary space.
SPOON HIGHLIGHTS
First annual Evanston food guide
Bi-annual magazine
NEW WEBSITE www.spoonnu.com
@spoon_nu
@spoon_nu
Spoon University Northwestern
www.spoonuniversity.com/chapter/nu 2022
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favorite r u o y s ’ t “Wha od?” finger fo
Presidents Zoe Dockser & Eden Hirschfield
VICE PRESIDENT PRINT EDITOR lumpia (filipino spring rolls) CREATIVE DIRECTORS ONLINE EDITOR PHOTO DIRECTOR TREASURER PUBLISHING ASSISTANT BUSINESS DIRECTORs EVENTS DIRECTOR SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR New Member Coordinator
Margot Present Zoe Malin Meghna Jain & Talia Schulhof Nixie Strazza Lucy Jung Dayna Rapkin Sara Frank Isabelle Kenagy & Maya Mahoney Naomi Aisen Julia Moore sweet potato fries Celine Macura
WRITERS Alexia Kadota-Browner, Anthony Xie, Betsy Winick, Caroline Labow, Cleo Kanter, Dahlia Trilling, Deniz Yoruk, George Esteve, Grace Wang, Izzy May, Jonathan Perkins, Lola Bodé, Sarah Meadow, Stephanie Shields
DESIGNERS fried pickles
popcorn
Cammi Tirico, Catherine Erickson, Evelyn Driscoll, Gretchen Raedle, Isabel Gitten, Isabelle Hauf-Pisoni, Maia Sporn, Valentina Doukeris
PHOTOGRAPHERS Alani Cox-Caceres, Bailey Abraham, Catarina Peixoto, Christina Chen, Izzy Riback, Mia Costa, Mira Brodsky, Steven Zheng, Victoria Deng
BUSINESS RELATIONS Angela Lee, Brian Albert, Chiara Dorsi, Clara Luczak, Elizabeth Farassat, Ellie Huppe, Justin Spitz, Mary Childs Hall, Matthew Lorenz
pizza bagels
EVENTS Beatrice Bailey, Caroline Bercu, Gia Khanna, Hailey Donato, Maddie Malueg, Mia Rhee, Nina Petrouski, Stephanie Markowitz, Sydney Schulman
SOCIAL MEDIA crostini
Allie Gold, Callie Morgan, Charlotte Newman, Emily Chow, Jenna Friedman, Jess Bradford, Jordyn Lemer, Katie Brodsky, Matthew Moseley, Sarah Kate Padon, Sarah McGrath, Taylor Doyle
Spoon Magazine is an extension of Spoon University, an online campus food community founded by Northwestern alumni Sarah Adler and Mackenzie Barth. nu.spoonuniversity.com
2022
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Starters
How food journalism allows writers to explore their love for gastronomy Chicago Tribune food critic Nick Kindelsperger on how to bring food writing into your own culinary wheelhouse.
Written by George Esteve Designed By Isabel Gitten “Gusteau’s restaurant lost one of its five stars after a scathing review by critic Anton Ego… the brokenhearted chef died shortly thereafter.” This line in Ratatouille was my first introduction to food writing. Maybe it was yours, too. But just for a second, push aside the image of hulking, morbid, Parisian men like Ego and imagine sitting at your dream restaurant, enjoying every bite of food and being able to share your thoughts with your immediate company, as well as everyone who wants to listen. Oftentimes, food writing is an outlet for new avenues of thinking. Do you believe your local taqueria deserves a little more publicity? Or that Alinea is overrated? Do you want to understand how restaurants craft a menu? Or maybe you’re a huge Hot Ones fan and want to write your own recipe.
“I cook whenever I can at home. It opens your eyes to what restaurants are really doing behind those doors,” Kindelsperger said. “Once you cook enough, you can start appreciating each ingredient in a recipe and the effort that goes into what you eat.” Kindelsperger said it’s common to get writer’s block while crafting stories, especially when you’re describing dishes. “There are only so many words to say ‘tangy’ or ‘sour,’” he said.
“Once you cook enough, you can start appreciating each ingredient in a recipe and the effort that goes into what you eat.” Kindelsperger has a point — when you learn that different citruses have unique kinds of sour or tangy, you can incorporate those specific ingredients in your writing. Think about how much more you can say with “kumquat-like sweetness” than “sweet, yet sour.”
Despite all the ideas you may have, it’s hard to know where to begin when it comes to food writing. Current Chicago Tribune food critic Nick Kindelsperger started with a part-time food blog he wrote while temping in Manhattan after college.
You’ll also undoubtedly run into some roadblocks while embarking on a food writing career, whether that’s a full-time job or a side hustle. You can make a lot of mistakes as an early food writer, but each is a learning experience. Absorb the knowledge of everyone around you and make sure you’re paying attention to various perspectives.
“I just started going around, trying to find either the best taco or best late-night food I could get my hands on,” he said.
“I made a lot of mistakes with my frame of mind when I started,” Kindelsperger said. “I had a very white, male, sheltered frame of mind. Journalistic organizations are realizing they have to change and bring in a more diverse group of people.”
And while Kindelsperger said interviewing big name chefs like Rick Bayless or Grant Achatz are amazing opportunities, he suggests starting small. Kindelsperger said local businesses “are probably putting just as much, if not more, love and time into their food” compared to restaurants in Downtown Chicago that operate like well oiled machines.
Growing as a writer is just as important as getting your career off the ground. And Kindelsperger found it hugely important to find a specific niche. “Write about something the big papers really aren’t covering. Tons of people would much rather read an editorial on all the nooks and crannies of unique Midwest cuisine than another review of Alinea,” he said.
Remember that criticism isn’t the only path into food writing. Those who love to cook can start by writing recipes. Kindelsperger noted that he takes lessons from cooking and applies them to his writing all the time.
Overall, the recipe is simple: Find what you love, give it a taste and start writing.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF NICK KINDELSPERGER
2022
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Starters
A Love Letter to Edzo’s If you’ve never had Merkts cheddar cheese fries, stop reading and go eat some right now. Written by Charlotte Newman Designed by Maia Sporn The hidden gem of Sherman Avenue is located under a mustard-yellow awning, adjacent to a small Italian restaurant and around the corner from a bustling town square. Edzo’s Burger Joint. I could talk about Edzo’s for days. I’ll discuss my exact order with anyone who will listen, analyzing the ins and outs of the restaurant and pointing out what makes it so special. My main sales pitch? Edzo’s burgers, fries and milkshakes are crafted to perfection, and the authentic decor makes Edzo’s reign supreme. The first time I tried Edzo’s, I was in sixth grade. I was spending the night with my cousin, who was a Northwestern undergraduate. I wanted to go somewhere crazy like the Superdawg Drive-In. My cousin suggested something else entirely: Edzo’s. Needless to say, my life changed forever. As we walked through the brown door, we were confronted by a ginormous blackboard. It had the Edzo’s menu written on it in unevenly sized fonts, and the words were surrounded by cartoon graphics of burgers, fries and shakes. The wall across from the blackboard had an animated burger printed front and center. Fries and a shake shot out both sides of the burger, and the Chicago Skyline popped out behind the trifecta. The Edzo’s logo completed the work of art.
The more I looked around the restaurant, the more I fell in love.
There were diner-esque tchotchkes scattered here and there, like posters of the Vienna Beef logo and Chicago sports jerseys, all of which hung around the grill and fryer. Above the cash register, there was a letter board with additional menu items such as fried pickle chips. After ordering at the register, we chose our table and watched the chefs cook our meals like Hibachi. “ORDER FOR CHARLOTTE,” the man yelled. I ran to the grill and picked up the orange tray that held my Merkts cheddar cheese burger and fries, truffle fries and peanut butter oreo shake. My order has not changed to date. The cheeseburger itself was amazing. It was salty, juicy and tender. And the Merkts cheddar cheese fries came drenched in cheese, making them rich yet salty and crispy yet creamy. The truffle fries were incredible. They’re doused in truffle oil and topped with mounds of freshly grated parmesan cheese. PH
OT And then there were the shakes — flavorful, OS BY thick and rich, just like they should be. They come MI AC with whipped cream and a maraschino cherry housed OS TA inside a Dixie cup, but the milkshake itself was served in a metal cup. It truly felt like I was at an old school diner.
So, yeah. I’m obsessed with Edzo’s. It’s charming, inviting and warm. And, of course, the food is unbelievable. Edzo’s quickly became my go-to spot for all things celebratory, my escape during quarantine in 2020 and the place I bring my friends when they ask me, a Chicago native, for restaurant recommendations. Edzo’s will forever have a special place in my heart, and I hope you will taste the magic soon, too.
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Starters
Ema’s lovingly crafted specialty spreads
Written by Betsy Winick and Cleo Kanter Designed by Gretchen Raedle
The restaurant’s executive chef puts a personal twist on traditional Mediterranean cuisine and provides a shared dining experience with his dishes.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF JEFF MARINI
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Starters Daniel Traimas, Ēma’s executive chef, said finger food is “kind of like interactive eating.” And one of finger food’s defining factors is its ability to be shared. Mediterranean food, which Ēma specializes in, emphasizes the importance of sharing plates, also know as tapas style tasting. When Traimas’s parents moved from Thailand to the United States, they ventured into the work industry by doing what they knew best – cooking. They opened a small Thai restaurant in Addison, Illinois where Traimas worked as a young boy to master Southeast Asian cuisine. His willingness to mix and match different flavors ultimately led him to explore French food as a Chicago culinary student at Kendall College. But in 2012, he decided that the best way to explore the culinary world was through his own experiences in the kitchen. Traimas felt this was something he could do while working in various restaurants, not on a college campus. When Traimas dropped out of culinary school to pursue his passion for food, he was able to experiment with different cuisines through his work at restaurants like Arun’s, the Kimpton Palmer Hotel and Cobalt in Vero Beach Hotel & Spa. And in 2019, Traimas joined Ēma as executive chef and right-hand-man to Chef Partner Chef CJ Jacobson. Traimas’ cooking style draws inspiration from his favorite dining experiences. When eating creates a memorable moment for him, he values those foods and flavors, incorporating them into his own dishes. Since his familiarity with Thai and Southeast Asian cuisine originally led him to the cooking industry, Traimas brought a unique perspective that complements Jacobson’s Middle Eastern focus at Ēma. He said the key to creating a unique Middle Eastern cuisine involves staying true to Ēma’s traditional style while also incorporating some flavors of his own. Traimas loves the starters at Ēma, especially the dips, because they are specifically designed for diners to share. He said he values the importance of talking about foods at the table and tasting multiple things, rather than ordering a solo meal. His favorite dip is Ēma’s Hummus, which is “traditional, but unique because of the technique at Ēma.” Traimas holds up Ēma’s method of soaking the garbanzo beans as a way to make a creamy hummus, giving it a unique identity “even though it can be a simple food.” Another highlight on Ēma’s menu is the Charred Eggplant spread, which Traimas said is from “lebanese cuisine, using the inside of an eggplant with yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, olive oil, lemon vinaigrette and different herbs.” Traimas also boasts about the House-Made Labneh, which he said is essentially “amped up yogurt.” According to Traimas, labneh is a perfect blend of “savory and crunchy,” and serves as the backdrop for toppings like pine nuts, mint and honey. Ēma’s spreads are not meant to be eaten alone, yet despite their reputation for being light and healthy dishes, “the spreads are actually really filling and healthy,” Traimas said. The garbanzo PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHRISTINA SLATON
beans in the hummus, for example, are high in protein and fiber, and he recommended pairing them with lighter dishes. Traimas uses his admiration for every step in the cooking process to choose his favorite dishes at Ēma. For first timers, Traimas recommended starting the first course with Hummus. When customers take that first bite, they’re immersed in the type of high-quality cooking Ēma offers. For customers looking to try something more experimental, the Toasted Almond & Garlic spread is a great option. The combination of strong and simple flavors leaves customers craving more. Traimas also recommended the House-Made Stracciatella, a Mediterranean twist on a classic Italian caprese. The dish consists of mozzarella curds soaked in luke-warm water and then they’re stretched – this is a cooking technique only a few prep cooks are able to perform. The dish looks like the inside of burrata cheese, and it’s complimented by mighty vine tomatoes, house-made croutons and sherry shallot vinaigrette. With his seasoned background in cooking — ranging from fast casual to fine dining — Traimas has surely brought his personal repertoire to Chicago’s River North food scene. “I always incorporate food and flavors that are close to my heart,” he said.
Flights
A definitive ranking of fast food fries Fries are the ultimate finger food. We tried options from six restaurants to learn how they stack up. Written by Jenna Friedman and Nina Petrouski Designed by Valentina Doukeris French fries are a staple snack and the ideal compliment to any meal. They’re also an integral part of the American dining experience, specifically when they come from a fast food restaurant. Evanston is severely lacking in the fast food department, so we embarked on a journey to Skokie, a neighboring suburb, to find the greatest fries of all time. We rated fries from six fast food restaurants based on their appearance, texture and flavor — each category got a score from one (worst) to five (best). Here is our final ranking.
1st
2nd
Best overall: McDonald’s
A strong contender: Portillo’s
Total score: 4.75 Appearance: 4.25 Texture: 5 Flavor: 5
Total score: 4.3 Appearance: 5 Texture: 4.25 Flavor: 3.75
These fries should be used as a blueprint by everyone looking to sell something similar. They’re the reason we come to McDonald’s and they have never let us down. Everything about this french fry is flawless: perfect salt to potato ratio, can hold its own without a dipping sauce and a stunning golden appearance. And don’t even get us started on the texture — it’s impeccable. They absolutely live up to their reputation. TL;DR: Reliable.
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Nina has a deep, personal loyalty to this establishment, but Jenna was a first timer. Regardless of our varying familiarity, we agreed on one thing: these fries are beautiful. In fact, they’re a clear winner in the appearance category. Our complaints? These fries could use some more salt or a fun sauce to go with it. TL;DR: A strong contender.
Flights
3rd
4th
A supporting actor: Wendy’s
Eh: Culver’s
Total score: 3.6 Appearance: 3 Texture: 4 Flavor: 3.75 Wendy’s fries barely beat Culver’s. And we were quite conflicted about this one. Jenna will forever be a fan of Wendy’s fries. Nina, on the other hand, had one word for these fries: mid. The salt-to-fry ratio was slightly inconsistent, but when there was a good fry, it was really good. These fries are a must order, but they’re not the main character, just a strong supporting actor. TL;DR: Severely overshadowed by a Frosty.
5th
Total score: 3.5 Appearance: 5 Texture: 3.75 Flavor: 3.25 Apologies in advance to Wisconsin-ites everywhere, but we all know you go to Culver’s for the cheese curds and the Butterburgers anyway. We can’t deny that the appearance and texture of these fries were admirable, but the flavor was lacking. They tasted more like a baked potato than a french fry ever should. Culver’s fries required a heavy dousing in dipping sauce. TL;DR: More salt please!
6th
Only if you’re desperate: Chick-fil-A
Eat at your own risk: Burger King
Total score: 2.9 Appearance: 2.75 Texture: 4.5 Flavor: 1.5
Total score: 1.5 Appearance: 2.25 Texture: 1.75 Flavor: 0.5
We know this may be an unpopular opinion, but hear us out: These fries are NOTHING without the sauce. We can’t deny that Chick-fil-a sauce is heaven-sent, but we’re here to rank fries. And these fries were slightly soggy, and inconsistent in shape and size. They left us questioning whether Chick-fil-A has access to a salt shaker. TL;DR: NOT our pleasure.
A piece of advice: Do not go to Burger King for the fries. We could not bring ourselves to eat a single fry in its entirety. Overall, we felt the appearance wasn’t too bad. However, that was the only redeeming quality of this eating experience, along with the BK crowns. The fries’ texture was somewhat grainy and the flavor was similar to cardboard. This was a disappointment to fast food fries everywhere. TL;DR: Monstrosity.
PHOTOS BY JENNA FRIEDMAN AND NINA PETROUSKI
2022
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Flights
PACK A
Our favorite finger foods from the area’s eateries to put in your picnic basket.
PICNIC ON CENTRAL ST. CKLOT A B
O O F
C
Written by Zoe Dockser Designed by Catherine Erickson
EE F F O
U T S D FFS
Beverages from Backlot Coffee are a must-have at any picnic. The iced oatmeal cookie latte is what I will miss most when I depart from Evanston. It’s a drink that’s gotten me through my time at Northwestern and made it so much sweeter.
Foodstuffs is always my first stop when preparing and curating a picnic. With plenty of unique snacks, candies, dips and drinks, there is something for everyone. It would be a crime to leave Foodstuffs without picking up one of their delicious dips. The artichoke and spinach dip is thick and creamy, and it doesn’t require any
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Northwestern’s campus is the perfect place to set up a picnic — you’re surrounded by Lake Michigan, there’s always a light breeze and you have a crystal clear view of Downtown Chicago. You could shop at any of Evanston’s eateries when planning your picnic spread, but I usually head to Central Street. Here are a few of my favorite finger foods that you can buy in the area.
The oat milk latte has hints of cinnamon and honey, but I promise it’s not too sweet. For noncoffee drinkers, I recommend the refreshing pomegranate green iced tea.
utensils for eating or serving when paired with mini naan dippers. I like to get something for dessert at Foodstuffs, too. For those who love the dichotomy of sweet and savory, the white, milk and dark chocolate pretzel balls — which are covered in sprinkles — are an ideal finger food to share with friends. But make sure to bring napkins on a sunny day in case the chocolate melts.
HE
Flights
The French macaron at Beth’s Little Bake Shop is not your average macaron. Per recommendations from the bakery’s staff, I stocked up on three flavors: birthday cake, lemon raspberry and cookies and cream. All three macarons had a light, fluffy filling sandwiched between crispy, chewy cookie shells.
T H’S
Hewn Bakery offers many picnic-friendly options, but the breakfast sandwich can’t be beat. The mouthwatering sandwich contains a fluffy scrambled egg with melty cheese and bacon on top. The star of the show is the onion jam — it boasts hints of sweetness and a caramelized flavor that makes the sandwich stand out. Get to Hewn early to make sure you can snag one before they sell out.
LITTL
branch out!
E BAK
other must-try picnic items
ES H O
P
the history
behind the cookie baker Don Vetter created this cookie in the 70s after the smiley face buttons became popular
TA
BE
W
K E RY A B N
ham & cheese croissant banana bread monkey bread
G’
R E Y K A SB
The smiley face cookies at Tag’s Bakery are the perfect treat to end a picnic with friends. The flavorful cookie is topped with just the right amount of yellow frosting. Simply looking at these cute sweets make you happy. PHOTOS BY ZOE DOCKSER
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Appetizers
From Katy Kim’s Kitchen Shareable finger foods that are so delicious you’ll want to devour a plate by yourself. No one does original recipes like Katy Kim, who runs the Instagram account @cakesniffing and recently started Lettuce Boy, a pop-up series in Evanston. We asked Katy to share recipes for two of her favorite finger foods that you can make at home and impress whoever you’re feeding.
Written by Katy Kim Designed By Isabel Gitten
Enoki Blooms 1 enoki stalk (makes four large blooms) ½ cup cold water ½ cup all purpose flour Neutral frying oil (vegetable or avocado oil) Flaky salt 1. Prepare your enoki mushroom for frying. Briefly rinse the stalk and pat dry until excess water is completely gone. 2. Using a sharp knife, slightly trim the base of your stalk to remove excess dirt. Be sure to cut as little off the base as possible to keep the bloom together. One enoki stalk can be cut into four large blooms. Set aside. 3. In a separate bowl, prepare the enoki batter. To make the batter from scratch, combine flour and cold water until well-mixed. If you’re using a pre-made tempura mix, follow the instructions as written. The batter should be relatively thick. 4. In a deep pan, heat your oil. Test the temperature with a single mushroom. If the oil is ready for frying, the piece will immediately sizzle upon contact. 5. Once the oil is ready for frying, dredge the clean enoki in the prepared batter. Using your hands, massage the batter between the enoki strands, keeping the enoki base intact. Remove excess batter as much as possible. 6. Immediately transfer the enoki into the hot oil. Using a heat-proof spatula, quickly separate the top of each bloom before it hardens. 7. Fry until each enoki bloom is golden brown on both sides. Transfer to a paper towel to drain leftover oil. Sprinkle blooms with flaky salt and serve immediately.
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PHOTOS BY KATY KIM
Appetizers
From the feed...
Egg Amuse Bouche Eggs (each egg makes two bites) Anchovies Thinly sliced lemon rind or zest Curry powder Harissa Olive tapenade Microgreens Extra virgin olive oil Flaky salt 1. Bring a pot of water to a boil. While waiting, prepare a bowl of ice water. Once the water is boiling, add eggs and cook for seven minutes. Remove eggs and transfer to a bowl with ice water. 2. Once eggs are cooled, peel them carefully. Slice each egg in half. 3. Garnish the egg bites. For an anchovy amuse bouche, add a slice of lemon, anchovy and curry powder. Top with flaky salt and extra virgin olive oil to taste. For a spicy egg amuse bouche, add harissa, olive tapenade and microgreens. Top with flaky salt and extra virgin olive oil to taste. Serve immediately.
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Appetizers
How to Turn Vegetables into Extra Crispy Chips Five vegetables + five seasoning blends = 25 recipes for nutrientdense, flavor-packed, cravable chips. Written by Stephanie Shields Designed by Maia Sporn These recipes for baked vegetable chips are simple and easy, yet packed with flavor. Each recipe has three components: the base vegetable, a neutral oil and the seasonings. Mix and match whichever vegetable you have in your fridge with one of the five seasoning options to create your own homemade snack.
STEP ONE: Choose your seasoning Sea salt: 2 tsp. salt Chili lime: 1/2 tsp. salt, 2 tbsp. lime juice and 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper Spicy: 1 tsp. salt, 1 tsp. red pepper flakes and 1 tsp. paprika Cheezy: 1 tsp. salt, 1/2 tsp. black pepper, 1/2 tsp. garlic powder and 1/3 cup nutritional yeast or parmesan cheese Teriyaki: 2 tbsp. teriyaki sauce and 2 tsp. sesame seeds
STEP TWO: Choose a vegetable and cook Carrots 1 lb. large carrots (sub parsnips) 1 tbsp. neutral oil Seasonings 1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees Farenheit. 2. Thinly slice the carrots diagonally to form chip shapes. 3. Toss the chips with the oil and your seasoning of choice. 4. Line up the chips on a sheet pan in a single layer. 5. Roast the chips for 20 minutes, flipping halfway through. 6. Allow to cool and enjoy.
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1
2
Zucchini 1 lb. zucchini (sub eggplant) 1 tbsp. neutral oil Seasonings 1. Preheat oven to 250 degrees Farenheit. 2. Slice the zucchini into thin slivers to form chip shapes. 3. Dry the zucchini with paper towels to remove as much water as possible. 4. Toss the zucchini with the oil and your seasoning of choice. 5. Line up the zucchini on a sheet pan in a single layer. 6. Roast the vegetables for two hours, flipping halfway through. 7. Allow to cool and enjoy.
Brussels sprouts
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1 lb. Brussels sprouts (sub broccoli) 1 tbsp. neutral oil Seasonings
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees Farenheit. 2. Remove stray outer leaves from the Brussels sprouts and thinly slice them, creating about four slices per sprout. 3. Toss the sprout chips with the oil and your seasoning of choice. 4. Line up the sprout chips on a sheet pan in a single layer. 5. Roast the Brussels sprouts for 20 minutes, flipping halfway through. 6. Allow to cool and enjoy.
PHOTOS BY STEPHANIE SHIELDS
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Kale 1 bunch curly kale (sub spinach) 1 tbsp. neutral oil Seasonings
Jicama 1 large jicama (sub apple) 1 tbsp. neutral oil Seasonings 1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees Farenheit. 2. Slice the jicama into thin slivers to form chip shapes. 3. Dry the jicama slivers with paper towels to remove as much water as possible. 4. Toss the jicama slivers with the oil and your seasoning of choice. 5. Line up the jicama slivers on a sheet pan in a single layer. 6. Roast the jicama for an hour, flipping halfway through. 7. Allow to cool and enjoy.
4
1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees Farenheit. 2. Slice the kale along the sides of the stalks to de-stem the leaves and form chip shapes. 3. Dry the leaves of kale with paper towels to remove as much water as possible. 4. Toss the kale with the oil and your seasoning of choice. 5. Line up the kale on a sheet pan in a single layer. 6. Roast the kale for 25 minutes. 7. Allow to cool and enjoy.
PHOTOS BY STEPHANIE SHIELDS
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Dining At Dem Entrees
How the Demera restaurant immerses Chicagoans in Ethiopian culture and cuisine.
Written by Stephanie Shields Designed by Evelyn Driscoll
T
igist Reda’s goal was clear when she founded Demera Ethiopian Restaurant in 2007: bring the flavors and traditions of Ethiopia to Chicago. The eatery is built on Reda’s passion for sharing her family’s culture with diners. Guests experience Ethiopian hospitality and flavor through Demera’s authentic cuisine, and menu items range from meat-filled to plant-based dishes bursting with rich spices. Using your hands to eat is a celebrated practice in Ethiopian homes and restaurants. In fact, diners don’t get forks at Demera. Instead, injera bread — a flat, soft, pancake-like bread made of fermented whole wheat and teff flours — serves as the plate and utensils. In Ethiopian culture, it’s common for people to eat by tearing off a piece of injera bread, using it to scoop up food and popping the bite into their mouth. Injera has a slightly tangy, almost sour taste, and the spongy texture is designed to soak up sauces and curries. Ethiopian food is also a social experience, Reda said. In traditional Ethiopian culture, everyone gathers
around the table and digs into a shared platter. “At Demera, people come together to eat from one plate. It could be families, friends or coworkers,” Reda said. Located in Chicago’s Uptown neighborhood, Demera’s interior is a warm, well-decorated, lively gathering space. Before visiting Demera, Reda said over half of her customers had never tried Ethiopian food before. But guests typically embrace the authentic Ethiopian traditions with excitement. Reda was born and raised in Ethiopia. She grew up helping the elder women in her family prepare family meals and banquets. Along the way, she learned the secrets of traditional Ethiopian cuisine, knowledge she harnessed when creating Demera’s menu. It offers a diverse array of dishes featuring the freshest, highest quality authentic ingredients.
The most popular dish on the menu is the chef’s selection messob, which is a sampling of various spicy meat stews and vegetable curries served alongside injera. The vegetable bayanetu — from the Amharic word meaning “many kinds” — is a similar platter allowing diners to taste nine vegetarian specialities. Many of these dishes involve berbere sauce, which is a rich, tomato-based sauce that contains over ten spices, including garlic, ginger, chili powder and onion. Doro Wat is the most popular stew on the menu, and it’s widely considered the national dish of Ethiopia. This curry features lemonmarinated chicken that cooks for an hour and a half in a berbere sauce. Diners eat the curry by scooping it up with injera.
mera Demera also roasts its own coffee beans. The restaurant uses a jebena — a traditional clay pot — to brew and pour the Ethiopian coffee. Ethiopia is known as the birthplace of coffee, and Reda said Ethiopian people were the first to recognize coffee’s stimulating effect. Today, Ethiopian farmers hand-cultivate coffee using the same methods as they have for hundreds of years. Since it opened over a decade ago, Demera has become a home for the Ethiopian-American community of Chicago, in addition to a place where diners from all backgrounds learn about the culture’s food. There is something at Demera for everyone to enjoy, whether it’s your first time visiting the eatery or a restaurant you frequent weekly.
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At Demera, people come together to eat from one plate. It could be families, friends or coworkers.
”
PHOTOS COURTESY OF DEMERA
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Chopsticks or hands? Definitely no forks with kawaii Japanese bento. The history of Japanese bento and how it’s turned into a popular kawaii art form today. Written by Alexia Kadota-Browner Designed by Talia Schulhof
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ento, べんとう(弁当), is the Japanese word for a lunchbox. Unlike a traditional American lunch that may consist of a PB&J sandwich or a turkey sub, a Japanese bento provides a wellrounded, delicious and nutritious meal. A standard bento has rice (gohan, ご飯), pickled vegetables (tsukemono, つけ物 ), some form of meat or fish (niku/sakana, 肉／ 魚) and vegetables (yasai, 野菜). Bento has a long history that begins in the fifth century with simple compartmentalized lunches packed by farmers, hunters and warriors to eat while out in the fields. From there, the concept of bento spread across East Asia, with the word itself derived from the Southern Song Dynasty slang term biàndāng, which means “convenient.” When I think of bento, two main types come to mind: store-bought and homemade. Store-bought bento is convenient. You can find these relatively inexpensive, ready-made meals in any Japanese convenience store, and they’re perfect for a quick lunch or dinner, as well as to take on-the-go. When you buy a bento, the store clerk commonly asks “あた ためますか” (atatamemasuka?), which means “Would you like to heat your bento?” I favor homemade bento. I first encountered it when I attended Japanese weekend school in New York. I remember being excited to open my lunchbox every week to reveal the beautiful creation my mom prepared. Although I enjoyed carrying my bento in a standard American lunchbox with Disney princesses on the outside, a traditional homemade Japanese bento is wrapped in a furoshiki, (ふろしき), a colorful and elegant wrapping cloth folded and tied around the lunchbox for easy carrying.
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In my opinion, homemade bentos usually look more appetizing compared to store-bought varieties, mainly due to the love and care that goes into the preparation. In Japanese culture, it’s common for a mother to prepare a bento for her husband and children to eat for lunch each day. Convincing young children to eat their vegetables is not always an easy task, but bento makes eating healthy a visually appealing and fun task. Since bento is most commonly made for children, the designs are often quite cute. I’ve noticed common themes like using nori seaweed (のり) to add designs to the rice, cutting mini sausages into animal shapes and including small colorful toothpicks to enjoy finger foods. This style of character bentos (キ ャラ弁, kyaraben) became popular in the 1990s and remains popular today. Character bentos contribute to the well-known international image of the Japanese bento box, the one with cute designs and intricately crafted details. The Japanese term used to describe the cuteness of bento is kawaii (かわ いい). In Japanese, the word kawaii describes something as “cute,” “adorable” or “pretty,” usually carrying a connotation of smallness, shyness and innocence. Many dollar stores in Japan carry all the necessary supplies to create kawaii bentos. For my own bento lunches, I had star and heart shaped rice, mini sausages cut into octopi and pink toothpicks with small rabbits on the ends. My lunch container was pink with a Hello Kitty character on the lid, and I had special chopsticks that were designed to fit inside.
If you’re interested in making your own bento at home, here are some tips and tricks.
1.
Prepare a box. A normal Tupperware will work, or you can buy specially made bento boxes that feature a lid and several compartments.
2.
Decide the ratio of food and other components. The traditional method is the 4:3:2:1 ratio — four parts rice, three parts meat or fish, two parts vegetables and one part pickled vegetables.
3.
Pack the food tightly and decorate to make it kawaii. Think about the colors you will need to craft your design and choose foods that correspond accordingly.
Those who eat bento rarely use any utensils besides chopsticks. In general, Asian cuisine is famous for having bite-size pieces that you can easily pick up with chopsticks, something that is deeply rooted in culture and tradition. Throughout history, Japanese chopsticks served as a link between the human and the heavenly. Initially, people used them to share food with the deities. Since then, they have become a widely used tool to encourage mindful eating and appreciation of food in small bites. If you are ever in Japan or have the opportunity to try bento, I encourage you to give it a go. The store-bought options are a great meal for a hungry traveler, and can be found in almost every convenience store, supermarket or train station.
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How Melissa Melissa How Ben-Ishay Ben-Ishay strives to to strives ‘make life life ‘make sweeter’ sweeter’ The Baked by Melissa founder talks all things TikTok, her optimistic outlook on life and how her love for food inspired her to start a company. Written by Sarah Meadow Designed by Gretchen Raedle
PHOTOS COURTESY OF BAKED BY MELLISSA
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Melissa Ben-Ishay, the namesake behind Baked by Melissa cupcakes, left corporate America to follow her dream of making people happy with the things she creates. In doing so, she’s amassed a loyal customer base, including those who’ve recently discovered her through TikTok. “I love social media,” Ben-Ishay said. “I find it incredibly inspiring, and I love to cook and I just wanted to get to know the app.” Little did Ben-Ishay know that she’d be responsible for starting viral trends after posting videos highlighting her recipes. Specifically, her Green Goddess salad has over 21 million views and 1 million likes on TikTok. It’s one of the most famous finger foods on the internet — no fork is required for eating the salad since she scoops it up with tortilla chips. “Before I had kids, we would do these one meal Sundays where [my husband and I] would have friends over,” she said. “My very best friend is gluten- and dairy-free, and she would come and sit and watch me chop the salad, and just dip chips in it. It’s a great way to eat a salad, especially when it’s as finely chopped as I make it.” A common thread in Ben-Ishay’s success is her goal to be authentic to herself and to stay positive. “I think that I have a very optimistic outlook on life. I see every challenge as an opportunity to learn and grow. And I truly believe that in order to find success and fulfillment, you have to go out of your comfort zone,” she said. “That outlook has a direct impact on business. Because every failure is a learning experience. And that outlook makes all the difference.”
Ben-Ishay believes this mindset is what makes her brand so strong. She doesn’t follow trends. Instead, she’s led by what her followers and customers love. “I’m obsessed with our customers,” Ben-Ishay said. “I’m constantly thinking about how we can provide our customer with the single best experience and product.” When it comes to her mini cupcakes, Ben-Ishay keeps customers excited with flavors like tie-dye, chocolate chip pancake and her personal favorite, peanut butter and jelly. Baked by Melissa also offers cupcakes that are gluten-free, nut-free, kosher and dairy-free so everyone is able to enjoy what the brand dubs “the perfect bite.” Currently, Baked by Melissa has storefronts in the New York and New Jersey area, including in JFK airport. The brand also ships its cupcakes nationwide. Baked by Melissa even recently partnered with NATIVE, a brand that sells personal care products, to create signature cupcake-scented deodorants and body washes available at Target. Ben-Ishay co-founded Baked by Melissa with her brother, and she accounts much of her early success to her support system. She said she believes in learning from all the different relationships in her life, and tries to surround herself with people “who have skills and strengths that I don’t have.” After years building and expanding her business, Ben-Ishay’s first piece of advice is to avoid putting too much pressure on yourself. She said it’s important to focus on the things that make you happy and feel fulfilled. “You’re going to learn from experiences, you’re going to make mistakes… just enjoy the ride,” she said. “Because the older you get, the quicker it goes.”
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TAPVILLE SOCIAL:
MORE THAN How the self-pour eatery established itself as a social destination in Downtown Evanston. Written by Nixie Strazza Designed by Isabelle Hauf-Pisoni
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A LOCAL SPOT
FOR CRAFT BEER T
apville founder and CEO Joseph Tota wanted to streamline the hospitality industry and improve the restaurant experience using the skills he learned as a technology consultant. The result? Tapville Social House. It’s a self-pour eatery with brick and mortar establishments, kiosks and mobile taprooms set up all across the United States. And Evanston got its own Tapville location in December 2021. By having beers and ciders on tap for customers to try without the headache of traditional restaurant ordering, Tota said he hoped to make craft breweries more accessible to all. Tapville focuses on the community it creates within each of its locations. Don DiBrita, former beer festival producer and manager, also said Tapville created a beer drinking experience specifically geared towards a female demographic. He noted that this group is typically overlooked in the beer industry due to societal stereotypes, but the enjoyment of good craft beer should not be regulated to only those with beards and flannel. “We are able to serve the market and be more than just a beer concept,” DiBrita said. At Tapville in Evanston, customers can choose from more than 40 beer and cider selections on tap.
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Options include fruity and spicy beer varieties like Blizzberry or Peaches and Cream, or a more hoppy and bitter pale ale called Punk Rock For Rich Kids. Customers get a card at the beginning of each meal and can fill up their cups at taps set up around the exterior of the main dining room. Descriptions of each drink category prominently displayed over the taps act as a guide for customers who are beginners in the beer and cider space. DiBrita is an educator in the hospitality program at the College of DuPage Illinois, and he said the descriptions feature information similar to what he teaches his students about the ins and outs of craft beer. “We include the flavor profile as opposed to the beer style because everybody knows what that means,” DiBrita said. “If you don’t like sour and funky beers, you should probably stay away from the section of the wall.” Given the diverse beer market across different regions of the United States, DiBrita said Tapville’s model encourages flexibility in its franchise menus. Tapville highlights the best drinks available in the area around each of its locations, whether that’s through creating an exclusive cider with a family run brewery or sourcing from local producers. In Evanston, this means beverages from local businesses like Smylie Brothers Brewing Company, Temperance Beer Company and Sketchbook Brewing Company are available on tap. Evanston Tapville also boasts an extensive dining menu, much of which can be enjoyed sans fork. Towering taco flights pair well with four mini margaritas if you’re looking for a Mexican-inspired meal. Handheld sandwiches and a half-pound
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sirloin burger balance out shishito peppers and cauliflower bites, and vegetarians can indulge in pastas, pickle chips and a strawberry chopped salad. With glutenfree options clearly labeled on the menu, Tapville makes it easy for diners to find dishes that best fit their diets.
“TAPVILLE IS MORE THAN JUST AN INVENTIVE APPROACH TO THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY.” A combination of vibrant, hand-crafted cocktails and tasty snacks can be enjoyed on a weekly basis at Tapville’s many cocktail pairing events. At the popular Cupcakes & Cocktails pairing, customers reserve tickets to indulge in cosmopolitans with key lime cupcakes or wash down brown butter vanilla icing with a fresh dark and stormy. The events are all part of Tota’s mission to provide an experience defined by a positive environment. From Galentine’s Day celebrations complete with chocolatecovered strawberries to Thursday Spiked Flights & Bites, Tapville creates a cause for celebration for every person who walks through the door. DiBrita said there are plans for about 50 more restaurants, kiosks and mobile Tapville locations to open across the country in the coming months. Between the booze, bites and premium beers, Tapville is more than just an inventive approach to the hospitality industry. It’s a social destination in the heart of Downtown Evanston.
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PHOTOS BY BAILEY ABRAHAM
PHOTOS BY NIXIE STRAZA
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Eat with your hands. It’s only natural!
A deep dive into the history and science behind using your fingers to eat featuring fufu, flora and medieval forks. Written by Eden Hirschfield Designed by Meghna Jain
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acceptable when using your fingers for ribs or corn, recently went out to dinner at a Mexican restaurant
but not for chicken breast or potatoes?
with my roommate. I ordered rice and beans, and when the food arrived, I scooped my hand across
As for the bacteria that lives on our hands, some believe
the plate and brought a fistful of rice to my mouth.
it can improve digestion if swallowed. When flora
My roommate looked at me like I had eight eyes and
(healthy bacteria) from your fingers enters your body,
asked, “Are you kidding?”
it stimulates your digestive system and helps protect you from other harmful bacteria that you’ll come into
Fair. There are many dishes American society accepts
contact with in the future. Even the motion of using
as finger food: burgers, pizza, tacos, granola bars, wraps,
your fingers to ingest food is said to be beneficial;
burritos, chips, fruit, vegetables and dip, to name a few.
when you pick up food items, receptors in your fingers
But venture outside of “approved” items and you’ll
send messages to your brain that you’re about to eat,
quickly face judgment and offense.
and your stomach begins releasing digestive enzymes.
Who decided that eating a handful of trail mix is
For diners in parts of Africa, India, Asia and the
any different than eating a handful of rice? From an
Middle East, eating certain meals with silverware is
evolutionary standpoint, our fingers exist to help us
actually frowned upon. The traditional African dish
grab onto things like food and tools. Spoons have been
fufu is made to be eaten with fingers. The dough-like
around since the Stone Age to help with consuming
creation is cooked by boiling a combination of cassava,
liquids, but forks weren’t invented until thousands of
yam and plantains, and then mashing and shaping it
years later — even then, they were initially used
into small balls to be served with soup or stew.
for cooking, not eating. My roommates and I decided to try fufu, so we made In terms of cleanliness, it
our way to Vee Vee’s African Restaurant, which is about
makes sense why silverware
15 minutes from Northwestern’s campus. Before we
was
it’s
ordered, we noticed that people around us were using
interesting that society has
their first two fingers and thumb on their right hand
drawn boundaries for some
to pick up food. When our fufu arrived, the waiter
foods and not others. Why
showed us how to pull off small bits, make a small
are your fingers clean
dent in each piece with our thumbs and use it to scoop
enough to pick up
up the accompanying stew. We used hand sanitizer
a burger, but
before eating, but that made our first few bites taste
not pasta?
like pandemic. We noticed that a group seated near
Why is
us used bowls of water to cleanse their fingers before
mess
and after they ate. I’d highly recommend that method
invented.
But
instead.
PHOTOS BY BAILEY ABRAHAM
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According to our waiter, some Africans view eating
They developed a pop-up concept where diners are
with your fingers as a sensory experience that enhances
invited to eat completely in the dark, relying on
a meal. “In Nigeria, we are taught that using your
touch and taste to enjoy their food. When I attended
hands fills you well. It’s traditional,” he said. “I’ve been
a Blind Cafe meal in 2017, I remember hearing
eating fufu with my hands since I was six months old.”
stories from hosts and waiters, who, as visually impaired individuals, were used to navigating spaces
Eating with your hands is also taught from a young
without sight and using touch to connect with food.
age in parts of India. The Vedas, which are Hindu scriptures, describe a relationship between each
There’s history and science behind eating with
finger and one of the five elements. The thumb is
your hands. It may be considered impolite on
connected to fire, the index finger to air, the middle
some occasions, but in others it’s certainly the
finger to space, the ring finger to Earth and the pinky
norm and may provide wellness benefits. Maybe
finger to water. Therefore, eating with your fingers
now you’ll start expanding your definition of
allows the elements to flow through your hands and
finger food. At the very least, go try some fufu.
into your food, which helps align you with nature. The creators of the Blind Cafe experience also harnessed the impact touch has on eating a meal.
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A LOVE LETTER TO
MOTT ST. BURGER Designed by Cammi Tirico
PHOTOS BY SARA FRANK AND DAYNA RAPKIN
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OUR JOURNEY TO FALLING HEAD OVER HEELS FOR THE BEST BURGER IN CHICAGO. Dear Mott St. Burger, When we first saw you on Instagram, we were immediately intrigued. The close-ups of your double chuck patties and layers upon layers of sweet potato shoestrings — the highlight of the burger flaunting the most vibrant orange color — caught our attention. One could say it was love at first ‘like.’ We were determined to try you. We had our sights set on you. We booked an 8 p.m. reservation for the first available date. We made the trek down to Wicker Park. We couldn’t contain our excitement to snap the most gorgeous photos and finally try you. When we arrived, the first thing we said to the waitress was, “We already know what we want – the burger.” Interrupting our fantasy, she responded, “Sorry, the burger is only available until 7 p.m.” Our hearts shattered into a million tiny pieces. Luckily, everything we tried at Mott Street was incredible – our favorites were the fried rice and the everything wings. But we wouldn’t be satisfied until we could try you. Our journey for you continued. We booked another reservation – this time for 5:30 p.m. We were not going to miss your deadline. We arrived, and again, we said to our waitress, “We’re here for the burger.” She put our order in and we waited in anticipation. We sipped on speciality cocktails, which were phenomenal — we learned from our previous visit that Mott Street can do no wrong. Then, the time came. We finally saw you in the flesh. The striking orange of the wispy sweet potato shoestrings looked as bright as the numerous Instagram photos we drooled over in the weeks prior. The
thick, buttery bun gleamed in the light. You sat tall, your double patties stacked high. The waitress placed you down on the table. Love at first sight — this time, in-person. Our phones ate first. We snapped dozens of photos from every angle, admiring your beauty. Then, we gripped your bun to eat you. You are a heavy burger. Using two hands to carry you into our mouths was a feat. We didn’t want your sweet potatoes to spill out, but a few were sacrificed. The moment of truth was here. We had dreamt of you for weeks, and we were finally going to have a taste. Biting into your thick, juicy patties was an ethereal experience. The hoisin aioli gave our tongues a tang. Pickled jalapenos packed a subdued punch (like, a good one). Miso butter onions supply your richness and umami (“Umami’s the name of the game,” Mott Street partner Vicki Kim told us). The gooey American cheese provided comfort among the unique ingredients. And, of course, the sweet potato shoestrings. Light, feathery, flavorful. Even the dill pickle on the side (yes, we are pickle girls) complimented you perfectly. Mott Street burger, you were – and still are – everything. Your individuality. Your looks. Your taste. It’s all we could ever want in a burger. We crave you all the time. We love you. xoxo, Sara Frank and Dayna Rapkin