Oishii#20 ebook by Oishii

ISSUE 20 JANUARY-MARCH 2019 MCI(P)021/08/2018

NEW BEGINNINGS

Elegant eats by

Konnichiwa

ESORA Chef Shigeru Koizumi

AichikogenOkumikawa! Go off the beaten track in Aichi Prefecture *“Hello” in Japanese

FACE VALUE

Unveiling a ceramics master’s sublime sake cups

Thank you very mochi

3 fave rice cakes to try Be our OISHII member for FREE and get exclusive benefits!

New Concept SAKE BAR

NOW OPEN at Frasers Tower!!! A wide selections of Sake from Niigata and quality food to choose from McC allum

●

Frasers Tower Car park

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● Frasers Tower

Tommy’s Sake Bar

lo Te

Stree

182 Cecil Street #01-09, Singapore 069547 Tel: 6203 5457 Opening Hours:11:30-15:00 (L.O.14:30) /17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) Friday & Eve of PH: ~23:00 (L.O.22:30)

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● Bangkok Bank Bulilding

Cecil

Street

Founded in Niigata in 1954 TOMI SUSHI was first opened in Niigata Prefecture in 1954. The prefecture’s stark temperature differences between seasons produce their best-known rice, KOSHIHIKARI, along with many famed SAKES. In addition, Niigata has numerous varieties of marine products. In this blessed region, we have devoted ourselves to serve the best food each season. We have traditional NIGIRIZUSHI, course meals and all kinds of side dishes. Here, you can taste good SAKE from Niigata too. It’s our pleasure to serve genuine Japanese food to the people of Singapore, so you’ll get to enjoy the most delicious cuisine from Niigata!

http://www.tomisushi.asia/ Millenia 9 Raffles Boulevard #02-12/13 Millenia Walk S039596 Tel: 6238-1123 Opening Hours:11:30-15:00 (L.O.14:30) 17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) NOVENA 238 Thomson Road #02-76/77 Novena Square (VELOCITY) S307683 Tel: 6255-2355 Opening Hours:11:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) KATONG

30 East Coast Road #02-14/15/16 KATONG V S428751 Tel: 6348-7897 Opening Hours:11:30-15:00 (L.O.14:30) 17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30)

35 Cuppage Road Cuppage Terrace S229459 Tel: 6333-4633 Opening Hours:15:00-23:30 (L.O.23:15)

OISHII ISSUE 20

NTENTS

02 New year, new tastes

09 More mochi, please

31 et your salt fix

04 Warm up for winter

14 Ring in the New Year

35 Face off

When the winter chill sets in, tuck into celebratory dishes using seasonal ingredients.

Cosy up to these top food events in Japan and Singapore.

06 The future of the food industry

Expect plenty of innovation and transformation in the years to come.

The rice cakes we love are sweet, crispy and traditional.

Celebrating the holiday with a special snow crab dish at ESORA. *The dish pictured on the cover is prepared by Chef Shigeru Koizumi.

16 Hello, Okumikawa

Adventure, culture, food and more â&#x20AC;&#x201D; take the road less travelled in central Honshu.

G Exploring the ancient tradition of morijio.

The designer of a special sake cup shares why he was inspired by samurai armour.

36 Delicious, delightful daikon

Easy recipe ideas for this juicy radish.

opening notes

NEW YEAR, NEW TASTES

Winter may have arrived in Japan but we can still look forward to many delicious and celebratory foods of the season.

Most root vegetables have their shun in winter. Daikon radish, one of Japan’s most fundamental ingredients in Japanese cooking, is usually served grated and raw as daikon oroshi, or used in stews and simmered dishes like oden. Not to be confused with daikon, kabu or turnip is also widely eaten in winter, and used in tsukemono or miso soup. Beyond fruit and vegetables, fish and shellfish also have their seasons too. Freezing waters mean a profusion of fish that have accumulated fat for the winter. Tastier and more flavourful, these fattened fish include cod (tara), yellowtail (hamachi), and mackerel (saba). Plump sea bream (tai) is especially enjoyed in winter and often served in celebratory dishes for the New Year. Of course, there are plenty of shellfish to savour during this season, such as shrimp (ebi) and asari or hamaguri clams. But the ultimate winter delicacy in Japan is surely crab, particularly female eggbearing crabs. Especially sought after are

zuwaigani or Pacific snow crab, caught off the coast of the Sea of Japan and eaten grilled, steamed, or raw as sashimi.

zest. Although ozoni comes in many regional variations, it is always eaten on the morning of 1 January to usher in the New Year.

CELEBRATING THE NEW YEAR

Yes, winter in many parts of Japan can be cold, dark and long, bringing snow, sleet and ice. But kitchens warm up with the simmering and stewing of everyday as well as special New Year dishes that use shun produce and seafood. And these comforting meals are always shared among friends and family, making them the perfect antidote for chilly, grey days.

The arrival of winter also means the New Year will soon be upon us. Ask any Japanese and they will tell you that New Year or oshogatsu is the most important holiday in Japan. Before the big day, families will prepare the mochi (pounded rice cakes) and osechi ryori, traditional Japanese food to be served at the New Year. Beautifully presented in lacquered bento boxes, osechi ryori is prepared by New Year’s Eve and placed on the dining table to be shared by loved ones. Inside these boxes, you will find several symbolic foods, often using shun ingredients and each representing a wish for the new year. For example, grilled sea bream symbolises auspiciousness and celebration. Pickled turnip, served in the shape of chrysanthemums (kiku), represents good wishes. The auspicious red and white colours of namasu, a vinegared daikon and carrot salad, are a good omen. And steamed, bright red shrimp and crab signify longevity and good fortune respectively. Served alongside osechi ryori is a special mochi soup called ozoni, which is often prepared with chicken, daikon and komatsuna, and garnished with yuzu

A POSTCARD FROM JAPAN

“Asahiyama Zoo is one of Japan’s most well-known zoos as the animals thrive in their natural surroundings. The penguin parade is the highlight of any visit during winter. The adorable penguins waddle and display their playful antics in front of visitors. The walk is designed to keep them fit and healthy!” −OISHII READER WENDY NG

TEXT DENYSE YEO

hen the temperature drops, it’s the time to harvest hardier crops like citrus fruit and root vegetables. These ingredients would have reached their peak freshness and flavour, or what is known in Japan as “shun”. Sour and sweet citrus fruit is gathered in early winter, like the popular yuzu, a small, yellow citron with a bright, refreshing fragrance. Its piquant zest is commonly used in cooking, such as soups and simmered and steamed dishes. A few leafy vegetables are another must-try during winter. These include komatsuna or mustard spinach, rich in calcium and a favourite of the season, and mizuna, which is often sautéed with chicken or pork, or simmered in a hot pot dish.

OISHII Instagram Contest Share your goodness with OISH And stand a chance to win

II today!!!

a Canon EOS M100 (Worth

The 17th shot starts now!!! The contest

will end on 1st March 2019, 5pm

$799)!!!

(Singapore time)

CANON EOS M100 (WORTH $799)

Step 1: Follow us on instagram! culture, etc...) ut Japan (eg. food, places, people, abo like you t wha of tos pho e Tak a higher chance to win! Step 2: #oishiicontest20 and tag friends for with am agr Inst on to pho r you Step 3: Upload 2019.

of April HII magazine vol.21, issued on 1st Winners will be announced on OIS ails. det ail or phone on prize collection All winners will be contacted via em

Congratulations! This photo was taken during our recent trip to Nara Park. We enjoyed the beautiful autumn scenery in Japan. The serenity of this deer drinking water from the shallow stream really captivated me. The water ripples and beautiful colours of autumn trees can be seen in the water reflection. - viv_sml This photo is just a beautiful piece of art. viv_sml was able to capture the special moment in the beautiful landscape. The movement of the surface of the water and the color reflection of trees are impressive. And of course, the deer looks adorable too! Well done. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; OISHII editorial team

HOTARULILY

RUNNERS UP

THE FINALISTS

Congratulations to the 2 winners!! They will each walk away with vouchers worth $100.

heyjuliaiseeyou

studiolengx

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1aine

studiolengx

viv_sml

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<Terms and conditions>1.Please do not post any photographs that are obscene, vulgar, pornographic, hateful, threatening, racist, sexist, discriminatory, or which otherwise violate any local or international laws. 2.You must be the copyright owner of any works submitted and you also confirm you have the necessary permission from people who may appear in the photo. 3.Photos uploaded to the contest cannot be deleted and may remain published. 4.By entering this contest you agree that any winning image or runner-up images you submit may be used by OISHII magazine solely for the purpose of this contest or future contests and no other purpose. 5.The judgesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; decision is final and they do not engage in communication with regard to entries. 6.Prizes are subject to availability and OISHII has the right to substitute any prize for a comparable prize of equal value without prior notice. 7.This contest is currently open to residents of Singapore. 8.OISHII has the right to vary or amend the terms and conditions of this contest. For updates on the contest, please visit our Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/oishii.magazine) By entering this contest, you are deemed to have understood and agreed with the terms set out above.

events

WARM UP F R WINTER The season’s harvests bring their own special flavour to these food and drink events in Japan and Singapore.

Furusato Matsuri 11 to 20 January 2019

TOKYO, JAPAN

No time to visit all of Japan’s festivals? No problem. This 10-day annual extravaganza showcases smaller-scale versions of the country’s different matsuri in one place at Tokyo Dome. Apart from cultural performances like those from the famous Nebuta Matsuri from Aomori Prefecture, 300 food companies from Hokkaido to Okinawa will dish up local specialities, or gotochi. Wash the fun down with over 100 varieties of wine, craft beer and liquor.

Izakaya Japan 2019 23 and 24 January 2019

TOKYO, JAPAN

An exhibition of izakayas, for izakayas, by izakayas, this specialised trade event for the quintessential Japanese pub will be held at the Ikebukuro Sunshine City Cultural Center. More than 21,000 visitors are expected to network and exchange ideas, in keeping with this year’s theme of “Creating the Future of Izakaya”.

Japan Brewers Cup 2019 25 to 27 January 2019

YOKOHAMA, JAPAN

If you like craft beer, you’ll love this three-day annual event celebrating the brew at the Osanbashi pier. It’s a double event: After an industry beer competition on Saturday and Sunday mornings, the beer festival commences proper in the afternoon. Sample more than 300 beers from 32 Japanese breweries and six craft beer importers. You’ll also enjoy live performances as well as a selection of food vendors.

Japan Sea Takaoka Nabe Festival 12 to 13 January 2019

TAKAOKA, JAPAN

A salute to the traditional Japanese stew, this festival offers nabe cuisine using fresh seafood fished in Toyama Bay. Expect 20 types of regional variations of the dish, such as crab nabe and fishcake nabe, ladled out from giant pots at various locations in Takaoka City. There’ll also be dance performances and street stalls selling speciality foods.

Miyajima Oyster Festival 9 to 10 February 2019

MIYAJIMA, JAPAN

Oyster fans, mark this down if you want to get your fix. Miyajima Island in the Seto Inland Sea is famed for its oyster farms, and February is the peak season for the plump mollusc. The festival is dedicated to this abundance, with freshly shucked oysters, oysters popping open on the grill, crispy oyster okonomiyaki, steamy oyster stew and more for the tasting.

Food Table in Japan 2019 13 to 15 February 2019

CHIBA, JAPAN

More than 100 exhibitors are expected at this four-in-one trade fair at Makuhari Messe. There’ll be four exhibitions and business talk events—Supermarket Trade Show, Kodawari Food Fair, Delicatessen Trade Show and Gaishoku Food Table. A starting point for information about the food industry in Japan, it aims to break down the boundaries among the retail, ready meals and food service industries.

Restaurant Asia Singapore 2019 21 to 23 March 2019

SINGAPORE

Organised by the Restaurant Association of Singapore in partnership with Conference & Exhibition Management Services, this inaugural exhibition will be held at Marina Bay Sands Expo and Convention Centre. The event will be a showcase of cutting-edge restaurant, kitchen and culinary equipment, as well as expert solutions and supplies. As a media partner, OISHII will also be supporting food exhibitors from Japan.

interview

THE FUTURE OF THE

FOOD INDUSTRY

Edward Liu, Group Managing Director of Conference & Exhibition Management Services (CEMS), shares what to expect at the inaugural Restaurant Asia 2019. to RAS members as well as the restaurant industry throughout Asean.

Ushering in the era of transformation

Expect lots of innovation Trade visitors can expect to see and experience some of the more innovative products and food services being displayed by global

TEXT SITI ROHANI

“I

have been running trade shows for the past 42 years. I was the first elected president of SACEOS (Singapore Association of Convention and Exhibition Organisers and Suppliers) in 1981 when the association was first formed. I was also the president of the Asian Federation of Exhibition & Convention Associations (AFECA) for eight years; I stepped down three years ago. Most recently, I was inducted into the Hall of Leaders by the Events Industry Council (EIC) of the US. I’ve even been referred to as The Exhibition Man by a local newspaper! In 2019, we will be holding the inaugural Restaurant Asia, in partnership with the Restaurant Association of Singapore (RAS). The three-day event, from 21 to 23 March, will be held at Marina Bay Sands Expo & Convention Centre, and it’ll be open

The theme for the inaugural event is ‘Innovative Transformation in the Food Services Industry’. The Singapore Government has introduced the ITM (Industry Transformation Maps) for various industries, including the food services sector. The key issue in Singapore for this industry is the manpower crunch. If restaurants cannot find workers, they cannot run a business. We have to innovate and try and transform the industry by using less manpower. However, in order to provide the same quality of food and services using fewer people, we need to adopt new solutions. We must collaborate and level up the food industry. Though I’m not an expert, I expect that in the coming years, Singapore will need to come up with even more innovative menus to cater to the millions of tourists who visit our shores yearly. As for Japanese cuisine, I believe that it’s slowly being integrated into the local scene such that we will likely have our own uniquely Asian delicacy.

suppliers. In addition, they can also attend seminars and workshops with plenty of takeaways in terms of new products and solutions. We are expecting 120 exhibitors, of which, conservatively, 20 will be from Japan. We are working with two Japanese consultancies in Singapore, including Media Japan, to bring in Japanese producers. We also have an advisor, the former managing director of JETRO (Japan External Trade Organization) Singapore, who is assisting us to reach out to various Japanese associations. The unique selling point of Restaurant Asia is that the event is being organised by the industry association for the industry. The organising committee is co-chaired by Mr Andrew Tjioe, who is the President and CEO of the Tung Lok Group, and myself. Andrew is a renowned restaurateur with over 30 years of experience, and as the past president of RAS, he is the industry personified. He knows exactly what’s good, what needs to be done and what ought to be brought into Singapore for the enhancement and improvement of the industry. We have a lot of experience in our respective trades and are coming together to make this event a success.”

n g i a p m a c p i h s r e b m e M I I H S I O r u o Join and win fantastic pr izes!

Gift 1

Promotion period:

from now till 31st January 2019, by 5pm

20 lucky winners who sign up as a new OISHII member during January promotion period will stand a chance to win a packet of

2kg Japanese rice from Fukui Prefecture. *Winners will be announced on 1 February 2019. Other T&Cs apply.

Gift 2

Promotion period:

Sponsored by ThinkRice

1st till 28th February 2019, by 5pm

Stand a chance to win a $100 voucher valid at Himonoya and Tomisushi, highly rated Japanese restaurants in town, when you sign up as a new OISHII member during February promotional period. We have 10 vouchers to give away!

*The choice of either one of two restaurants is arranged by OISHII, vouchers are not interchangable, and winners will be announced 1 March 2019. Other T&C apply.

HIMONOYA

TOMISUSHI

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*Please accept our apologies for a confusing description that appeared in OISHII vol 19. on P31. Shibata Yoshinobu Shoten has expanded its main store in Odate, Akita last August, and it will be done for the branch in Asakusa, Tokyo near future. ISSUE 19 October-December 2018 MCI(P)021/08/2018

Nyuto On

O nsen’ s

trail

Finding bliss in Akita’s famous hot spring town

A touch of

MAGIC

Fab flavours by Spago Singapore’s Chef Greg Bess

THE

Sweetest THINGS

Preserving the autumn harvest’s best treats

Sips, snacks

and so much more

Cheers to our fave izakaya hotshots

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LET’S VISIT

OBAMA!

Discover the culinary and historical riches of this coastal city along the Sea of Japan. Fascinating culture

The pretty seaside city of Obama in south-west Fukui Prefecture has long had ties with the ancient capital of Kyoto as well as China and the Korean Peninsula. The city also marks the starting point of the old Sabakaido Road, or “Mackerel Highway”, which connected fish merchants from the Sea of Japan to Kyoto for over 1,200 years. Walk around the historic Sancho-machi neighbourhood and you’ll see glimpses of Kyoto culture, such as traditional wooden lattice houses. A highlight is staying in one of these restored guesthouses. Or visit Obama’s last remaining ochaya (geisha teahouse), where you can lunch and play traditional games with geisha. Obama is also famed for Wakasa lacquered chopsticks. Almost 80 per cent of Japan’s lacquered chopsticks are made in Obama. It takes up to three months to lacquer one pair of chopsticks, which are painted as many as 30 times in a painstaking process. Don’t forget to visit some of the over 120 ancient temples here. One of the most outstanding is Myotsuji, a mountain temple that dates back to the 13th century; its main hall and three-storey pagoda are designated national treasures.

Sublime seafood

Obama has many things going for it. Just ask the people of neighbouring Kyoto or Osaka, who flock to the city in summer for sea sport and in winter to indulge in fresh seafood. What lures visitors time and again is the seafood. With its prime spot on the Sea of Japan and the mixture of cold and warm currents in Wakasa Bay, the waters of Obama are fertile fishing grounds, with all manner of fish, shellfish and octopus. Unlike mackerel found elsewhere, the mackerel farmed in the waters of Wakasa Bay are free from parasites. It makes Obama one of the few places in the world to eat mackerel sashimi safely. Another local delicacy is heshiko, preserved mackerel pickled in bran for up to a year and a half, that is eaten as a salty condiment with rice. Snow crab (zuwaigani) is a regional winter speciality in Obama with crabs caught in Wakasa Bay. Try the local fish market for sashimi bowls or grilled mackerel using freshly caught fish brought in from the adjacent fishing port. Or spoil yourself with a kaiseki meal at Suigetsu, a preserved 130-year-old building that once was the premises of a geisha union.

ET TO HOW TO G OBAMA CITY

Getting to Obama is easy by car as it is just a two-hour drive from Kyoto or Osaka. It makes a good day trip from either of these two cities, especially if you want to explore this fascinating coastal area of the Sea of Japan. More information at: WAKASA OBAMA TRAVEL GUIDE (https://www.wakasa-obama.jp/en/)

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Ishikawa’s

FINEST

Savour authentic Kaga cuisine at

Kenroku Japanese Cuisine!

KANAZAWA CITY

t’s no surprise why Ishikawa Prefecture is home to fresh produce galore and thriving food culture. After all, its strategic location surrounded by sea makes Ishikawa Prefecture a haven for exotic catchment, ranging from amberjack to shrimp. And that’s not all—its lush agriculture teems with fresh produce used in many of the region’s traditional dishes. At Kenroku Japanese Cuisine, patrons get to enjoy authentic Kaga cuisine made with some of these ingredients. Read on find out more!

Take a look at some of Ishikawa’s bounty!

These ingredients thrive in Ishikawa Prefecture’s unique weather and climate, and have been a part of Kanazawa’s traditional food culture for generations. Many of them are even used in Kenroku’s dishes!

Kinjiso (purple spinach)

Amberjack

Gasu-ebi prawns

Kaga-renkon (lotus root)

Noto-dainagon adzuki beans

Try these specialties from Kenroku Japanese Cuisine! Named after the famed garden Kenroku-en, built by former rulers of the Kanazawa Domain, Kenroku Japanese Cuisine is just a short distance away from Somerset MRT station. The establishment serves authentic Kaga cuisine (said to be influenced by Kyoto and Osaka cuisines) and exclusive Noto sake. Moreover, Kenroku’s seasonal ingredients are flown in from Japan three times a week, so you’ll be getting the freshest bites! “Many Singaporeans don’t experience the four seasons, but at Kenroku Japanese Cuisine, they experience it through the seasonal ingredients used in our dishes,” says GM Sato. So, whether it’s omakase (in which the chef decides what to serve you), a set meal or an a la carte selection, savour Ishikawa’s finest from Kenroku’s current specials:

Enjoyed during the Japanese New Year, Osechi Ryori is usually eaten from the 1st to 14th January, and traditionally paired with porridge. Each dish represents a series of blessings ranging from prosperity to longevity.

You’ll enjoy a pumpkin “mantou” stuffed with ground beef, handmade using traditional Ishikawa cooking methods. Fancy some seafood? You’ll also be served a sea bream roulade filled with a mildly sweet and milky mash of tofu and okara. Finish off with fatty tuna on top of Japanese rice complementing this main course.

Enjoy fresh, sautéed yellowtail in sesame butter cream sauce!

Kenroku Japanese Cuisine doesn’t just serve delicious meals—its dishes score high in presentation too! This artfully carved ball of turnip steeped in creamy miso sauce is a refreshing interlude between meat dishes.

Relish this exquisite trio containing succulent cuts of duck, simmered tuna cubes, and creamy monkfish liver encased in jelly made from dashi stock.

Kenroku Japanese Cuisine

Holiday Inn Singapore Orchard City Centre #01-13/14, 11 Cavenagh Road (S) 229616 Tel: +65 67374929 Mail: inquiry@kenroku.sg

Flavour

MOCHI, please Here’s your Japanese rice cake cheat sheet, from kagami mochi to pillowy soft habutae mochi and crispy, crunchy okaki.

mooth, sticky and chewy—it is hard not to love mochi! One of Japan’s quintessential foods, mochi is commonly used in local cuisines as rice is a staple food. This traditional rice cake is made of glutinous rice that is first steamed then pounded into a sticky paste and moulded into shape. Usually eaten while still soft, mochi can also be cooked in different ways when it becomes dry and firm. The easiest way is to grill it (isobe make), flavour with soy sauce and wrap in toasted nori seaweed. Another simple but sweeter version is to roast mochi and top it with kinako soy flour. And if you deep-fry mochi, it will become a crunchy snack called okaki, puffed up in irregular shapes. Although mochi is eaten all year round, it is also a traditional food during the Japanese New Year. Mochi is used as a New Year decoration as moonshaped kagami mochi and later served in a special soup called zoni. Mochi-making is also a wonderful communal activity during the New Year. Because making mochi by hand is so labour-intensive and time-consuming, fresh mochi is usually made by ordinary people on these special occasions. Family and friends get together to make mochi in the ancient mochitsuki ceremony, which can take up to a full day. Early in the morning, glutinous rice is steamed, then pounded into a paste using large wooden mallets in a traditional usu or hollow tree trunk; the rhythmic pounding is a common sound of the New Year. It is said that the quicker the mochi is pounded, the tastier the mochi! Handfuls of the sticky paste are then moulded and pinched into shape in batches. Outside of the New Year, machines make most of the mochi in Japan, although some Japanese households have their own electric mochi maker to make these chewy treats. In Japan, dried mochi is sold ready-made at supermarkets. If you’re buying fresh mochi, it will be available either as sheets or round cakes, depending on the region. In eastern Japan, like Tokyo, mochi is cut from large sheets; in western Japan, like Hiroshima and Kyushu, mochi tends to be round and disc-shaped. Here in Singapore, you can easily buy mochi and even kagami mochi at Japanese supermarkets. One tip: mochi cakes should be soft to the touch. If they feel hard, you can soften them by soaking them overnight in cold water. Want to know more about mochi? These are some of the most essential mochi foods.

TEXT DENYSE YEO

Flavour

KAGAMI mochi V

isit just about anywhere in Japan during the New Year, and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see these large, white and double-tiered rice cakes, topped with an orange-like fruit. Often, these are also adorned with ornamental paper and dried kelp or persimmons. Many Japanese usher in the New Year by displaying these traditional Japanese New Year decorations at home. Known as kagami mochi, which literally means â&#x20AC;&#x153;mirror rice cakeâ&#x20AC;? after their resemblance to old Japanese copper mirrors, these fat, circular rice cakes are usually placed in a Shinto altar at home and offered to the house gods. Kagami mochi are typically put out after Christmas before being removed on 11 January. The mochi is then broken up into smaller pieces, roasted

and served in zoni (vegetable and meat soup) or shiruko (sweet azuki bean soup). For auspicious reasons, kagami mochi is broken with hands or a hammer. It is not cut with a knife, which has negative connotations like the cutting of relationship ties. This ritual of breaking kagami mochi and eating it is called kagami biraki, and brings the New Year holidays to a close. The practice dates back to the 14th century and is thought to represent longevity, a good harvest and the blessing of ancestors. Although some families continue this old tradition of making kagami mochi and practising kagami biraki, many people today buy ready-made or even plastic versions from supermarkets or convenience stores. Typically, the mochi will be wrapped in plastic to prevent spoilage. More modern kagami mochi sold in stores will even come packaged with pieces of small mochi already broken like in kagami biraki. Kagami mochi is usually topped with a Japanese bitter citrus fruit, daidai. Depending on the region, it will also be decorated with umeboshi (pickled plums), shrimp, konbu (dried kelp) and dried persimmons, along with other items like traditional noshi decorative Japanese paper and, sometimes, even paper cartoon characters.

OKAKI mochi Y

ouâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re likely to find the traditional rice cracker okaki on any Japanese supermarket shelf. Salty and crispy, okaki is a popular snack in Japan. Made from dried mochi thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been toasted and cut, okaki is usually savoury and comes plain or in a range of toppings. Okaki was originally made as a way to use leftover kagami mochi, those large, round New Year decorative rice cakes that are placed as an offering in a family home. After a few days left out in the cold, kagami mochi would become hard, so okaki was created as a way to use up the mochi and prevent wastage. Some people still believe that making okaki must be done correctly to prevent bad luck or misfortune. Knives or other sharp objects cannot be used to slice the rice cakes because it is considered inauspicious. The rice cakes can be smashed only with a hammer, hence the irregular shapes of okaki that you often see today.

Beyond superstitions, making okaki demands a lot of care as the crackers are delicate and break easily. Steamed white rice is first pounded into a paste and kneaded in wooden moulds. These rice cakes are then dried for a few days, baked, coated with soy sauce and deep-fried in oil. The manufacturing process is a long-drawn affair and can take up to a week! Okaki is often eaten as a beer snack as it pairs well with alcohol, thanks to its savoury taste and addictive crunch. The most common flavour is soy sauce, but there are plenty of other okaki flavours out there, such as shrimp, nori seaweed and even mayonnaise. Some are also lightly glazed in sugar. But donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mistake okaki for senbei crackers. The latter is what most of us outside Japan are familiar with, with their round shape and soy sauce or salt flavours. Senbei is made from non-glutinous rice or wheat flour. There is also a third type of Japanese rice cracker known as arare, which is a smaller, bite-sized version of okaki.

lso known as neri-mochi (kneaded mochi), this classic confection originates from Fukui Prefecture. Thin, smooth and white, these glutinous rice cakes have a sweet filling, and are so light and soft, they’ll melt in your mouth. Its name comes from its super-smooth texture that’s a little reminiscent of silk. A habutae is a type of Japanese silk that Fukui—known as the textile kingdom with a long tradition of silk fabric manufacturing—is famous for. Habutae mochi has a history of more than 100 years as it originated with this textile industry. With its delicate and smooth texture, habutae mochi exudes the same elegance and gracefulness as Habutae silk. Sink your teeth into this mochi

confection, and you’ll find a beautifully soft and chewy texture. Taste-wise, habutae mochi is lightly sweetened and a perfect accompaniment with matcha or green tea. So how is habutae mochi made? Sweet shops in Fukui first grind glutinous rice into a powder, then add hot water and knead the mixture with sugar and starch syrup. Like most kinds of mochi, it typically takes a long time to make, which is why it is such a treasured treat. Fukui is also known for its high-quality rice, so it’s no wonder that habutae mochi is a great food souvenir of the region. These days, you can get habutae mochi in many different flavours, such as strawberry, chocolate, Japanese mugwort, and anko, a sweet paste made from azuki beans.

HABUTAE mochi

A D V E R TO R I A L

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EAT YOUR WAY THROUGH

BIEI & FURANO

From ginormous sushi to tempting ice cream, the food scene in this central Hokkaido region has plenty to offer the hungry traveller.

ith its craggy mountains and technicolour flower fields, the Japanese wonderland of Furano pulls in snow bunnies during the ski season and lavender fans in summer. But there are real treats in store for foodies all year round too, whether you want fresh produce, sushi or just really good ice cream. Possessing some of Japan’s best fruit and milk, the neighbouring Hokkaido towns of Biei and Furano offer a delectable smorgasbord of food experiences.

Fish tales

Furano has some great sushi, and we mean big sushi. The Fukuzushi restaurant in the centre of town is famed for its jumbo-sized sushi, each more than twice the size of normal sushi. Watch out—Japanese friends will likely egg you on to stuff the entire sushi into your mouth as it’s considered bad manners to bite sushi in half. Still can’t get enough? Stay in a salmon-themed room at Tomamu The Tower, Hoshino Resorts. The only one of its kind in the resort, this family room is decked in bright, fun hues of pink, orange and yellow, with salmon patterned décor including orange cushions and bath balls that look just like ikura, or salmon roe!

Dear dairy

Hokkaido is much more than the land of freshly caught sashimi and steamy, soupy ramen; it does a mean ice cream too. Furano Cheese Factory’s cheese is fantastic but it is the ice cream that deserves a gold medal. Here, fresh milk is sourced from local farms, then transformed into perfect swirls of gelato and soft-serve ice cream, with flavours that run the gamut from light-whipped cheese to tangy local haskap berry. Another ice cream to try is a short drive away at Tomita Melon House, which offers chopped Yubari King Melon served with ice cream, like a parfait, or melon-flavoured soft-serve.

Life is brew-tiful

The glittering fairy lights of the famous Ningle Terrace shops may beckon, but just a five-minute traipse away sits a cosy little coffeeshop, hidden among the pine trees and

perfect for a little respite. Called Mori No Tokei, or Forest Clock Café, this pretty café was once the set of a popular Japanese TV show. Settle on a choice counter seat facing the forest with a cup of your favourite brew and a slice of cake. You can even grind your own beans, if you prefer. Either way, you won’t want to leave this warm, welcoming space that’s a great spot to leave your city cares behind.

Grape job

What’s your tipple of choice? At Furano Winery, you can pick both wine and grape juice. Started in 1972, the winery makes 250,000 bottles of red, white and rosé wine a year using domestic Furano grapes. Teetotallers and children will also love the luxuriant taste of the limited-edition Furano Straight Grape Juice, with 80,000 bottles produced a year. The winery holds free tours, so you can take a look at the winemaking process—don’t miss the basement cellar stacked almost to the rafters with French oak barrels.

artistic

creation

Ring in the CHEF SHIGERU KOIZUMI

NEW YEAR

“I ESORA is located at 15 Mohamed Sultan Road. Tel: 6365 1266

n Japan, ushering in the New Year is a big thing and we usually celebrate by enjoying premium ingredients that we wouldn’t normally have at other times of the year. That is why I’m using Matsuba crab, or snow crab, which is a speciality from Tottori Prefecture. We also traditionally use the colours white and red for celebratory occasions, so I made sure to incorporate these elements into the dish as well—red from the crab and white from the maitake mushroom. I love working with ingredients that are in season. The crabs are in season till the end of February, so I knew I wanted to use them to create a new dish at ESORA. I took about three days to come up with the recipe for Matsuba Crab Soup. In Japan, the crab is usually boiled or steamed, but I find that it’s a shame to not enjoy the full flavour of

the whole crab. So I decided to boil the crab to make crab dashi, using a little salt and some soy sauce. I used the crab meat to make a type of shinjo, or crab cake. However, while traditional shinjo is usually harder in texture, the crab flakes are quite soft, so I wrapped them with hakusai, or Chinese cabbage. The crab was seasoned with some yuzu and fennel, which is unusual for Japanese cooking but is a very classical French combination. This dish illustrates my approach to cooking. I feel that I should always open my mind and do things a little differently. The inspiration for my dishes comes from looking at ingredients from different angles. Sometimes you have a set idea of how certain ingredients should be used, but if you free yourself from those boundaries, you can come up with new and exciting ideas.”

TEXT SITI ROHANI PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION

ESORA chef-owner Shigeru Koizumi was formerly from the three Michelin-starred Nihonryori RyuGin in Tokyo where he spent five years, as well as the two Michelinstarred Odette in Singapore where he worked for almost one year. The 34-year-old Nasu, Tochigi, native now helms ESORA, which celebrates fresh, seasonal produce cooked simply to showcase its flavours. Koizumi describes his style as traditional, yet with a modern touch, and wants his guests to be able to experience “outside the box” Japanese cuisine.

dining etiquette

GET YOUR SALT FIX In Japan, salt is used in cooking as well as cultural practices. Let’s take a closer look at the ancient tradition of morijio.

The significance of salt Salt is an important ingredient in Japan and has long been used to disinfect things as well as preserve food. For centuries, the Japanese would create their own salt in a laborious and time-consuming process by extracting salt from seawater. This made salt even more precious, so it was to be expected that the Japanese would use the indispensable ingredient in their rituals and traditions. Today, salt is used not just for cooking or as a seasoning. Many Japanese people continue to believe that salt is cleansing, purifying and has spiritual power. In Shinto rituals, salt is used as a religious offering or to purify things and ward off evil. This is also why you will also see sumo wrestlers throw salt into the ring to purify it before each match. Even the iconic Sanrio character, Hello Kitty, has gotten in on the act. In July 2018, Sanrio released the Hello Kitty Happy Morijio Set, complete

with a small dish, a cap to cover the salt and, of course, a little ribbon, all in pretty pink. The morijio practice stems from an old Chinese legend, of an emperor in the Heian era with 3,000 concubines, who waited for him in their own houses outside the palace. Each night, the emperor would travel in his oxen cart and choose a concubine. One clever concubine, who knew that oxen like salt, decided to pile salt outside her door. Because the emperor’s ox always went to her door to lick the salt, the emperor ended up spending every night with her. It later became customary for Japanese businesses and households to place salt outside their doors to attract customers and bring good fortune.

Fresh and pure The morijio tradition is not just seen at establishments in Japan but in many eateries around the world. The conical mound of salt outside the door may then signify to knowing guests that the place has been purified. Morijio that is replaced every day is also a clue that the place takes pride in cleanliness and purity, signifying that the food is also fresh and authentic. Many households in Japan continue this custom. You too can try this tradition yourself at home. Heap some natural salt on a small glass or porcelain saucer, and keep it on a kitchen shelf or at the threshold of your home. Replace your morijio with a new batch of salt once or twice a month. You too might find good luck and fortune next!

TEXT DENYSE YEO

f you’ve ever passed a sushi restaurant in Japan, chances are you’ve seen two pointy piles of salt kept at the sides of the entrance. These small mounds of salt are known as morijio, a compound word for mori, meaning “pile”, and for shio, meaning “salt”. So what is this custom and why do people practise it? Many high-end restaurants and ryokan in Japan often place morijio outside their establishments for two reasons: to attract customers and to repel bad mojo. (It is not safe for consumption, so please do not eat it!)

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愛知高奥原三河

Eat and rest well in the

AICHI HIGHLANDS After a detox holiday in the countryside here, Aichikogen-Okumikawa, you’ll return feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.

SHITARA-CHŌ TOYONE VILLAGE

TŌEI-CHŌ

OKAZAKI CITY SHINSHIRO CITY

AICHIKOGEN-OKUMIKAWA

AICHI PREFECTURE

AT THE ORGANIC CULTIVATED TEA PLANTATION WITH ATSUSHI UMEMURA, FROM TEA HOUSE MIYAZAKIEN

ver felt like you need another holiday after your holiday? Well, that won’t be the case if you visit the relaxing highlands in the Aichikogen-Okumikawa region. Few outsiders know about this well-kept secret, which has abundant natural resources and is steeped in rich history. Located near Nagoya, Aichikogen-Okumikawa is made up of Shinshiro, Toyota and Okazaki cities, Shitara and Toei towns, and Toyone village. After a historic battle in 1575, the region was ruled by the legendary Lord Tokugawa Ieyasu, who came from what is now the Okazaki city area. Lord Ieyasu helped to unify Japan during a time of civil unrest and, in 1603, was made shogun by Emperor Go-Yozei. Today, Aichikogen-Okumikawa is an undiscovered gem for sightseeing and outdoor activities, from camping in summer to winter skiing at Mt Chausu, the highest mountain in Aichi Prefecture. Taking a walk in the Dando Highlands also lets you come face to face with fir and maple trees. If you love the “farm to table” dining movement, you’ll love how you can enjoy “river to table” or “forest to table” cuisine here. Fresh produce includes Horai beef, gohei-mochi rice cakes made with grains from terraced rice fields in Yotsuya, and ayu sweetfish, sometimes caught from Ayutaki Waterfall or Furikusa River. This river fish has a briny sweetness and is best eaten fresh off the charcoal grill, with nothing else but its own natural oils and a mere sprinkling of salt. The Aichikogen-Okumikawa forests also offer wild game like deer and boar. (Look out for boar instant ramen in supermarkets!) And you can find one of Japan’s softest spring water here, known poetically as kanzui or God’s water. This is used in many local products, including sake and shaved ice. But, as with many rural towns and villages in Japan, Aichikogen-Okumikawa has an ageing population. Years ago, the younger generations started leaving the countryside to work in the bigger cities. As a result, family farms and plantations were abandoned and ravaged by wild animals. About four years ago, the local authorities started encouraging young entrepreneurs to revive the AichikogenOkumikawa scene. Okinawan Ai Kinjo visited six years ago and stayed on to set up Danon in a 150-year-old house. The 33-year-old hopes her guesthouse can let foreigners learn more about local culture and mingle with the community here. Others have returned to their hometown to take over and modernise family businesses. Tea farmer Atsushi Umemura, a former civil servant, is the sixth-generation owner of tea house Miyazakien. To attract younger tea drinkers, he grows organic tea and uses it in shaved ice or serves it chilled in sleek wine glasses. Local hotel scion Naoyoshi Kato, who runs his family’s traditional Hazu Resort ryokan, also started the Scandinavianchic Hoo! Hoo! bar. The reason? The 44-year-old wanted to introduce something more stylish and sophisticated to his hometown. Both his businesses are a good example of how Aichikogen-Okumikawa marries the old and modern worlds. Stay at the very traditional Hazu Resort, sleep on futons, enjoy a multi-course kaiseki dinner and relax in one of the onsen baths. Then, in your yukata, make your way to Hoo! Hoo! next door and sip on umeshu whiskey while listening to nature’s symphony, courtesy of crickets and the thrashing Uregawa River. City life, what’s that?

TEXT PEARLYN THAM PHOTOGRAPHY MAKOTO MIURA

TOYOTA CITY

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MUST-EATS IN AICHIKOGEN-OKUMIKAWA

Symbolic rice and miso come together as one in gohei-mochi; remember to try the region’s signature ayu fish too.

GLAZED GOHEI-MOCHI

n Japanese cuisine, rice is more than a meal staple. Cultivated in Japan for 2,000 years, the grain also has much financial, historical and cultural significance. In the past, rice was used as a currency (or as tax money for farmers). Today, Japan’s most important crop isn’t only eaten during meals; it is used in a myriad products, from sakes to vinegars. It’s no wonder that there’s the Otaue Matsuri or “rice field planting festival”. Celebrated in spring to mark the start of a new year, this sees the Japanese praying for a successful harvest. In some versions of the festival, seeds are planted in fields while in others, the planting process is acted out. Then, when autumn arrives,

harvest festivals are held to give thanks, too. Japanese rice, a short translucent grain that turns sticky when cooked, is grown in the country’s valleys, terraces and fields, with terraced rice plantations being one of the rarer sights. The Yotsuya Senmaida fields in Aichi Prefecture is famous for having more than 1,000 “steps” and produces the grains for some of the region’s signature rice cakes or gohei-mochi. If you do visit AichikogenOkumikawa, have this as your main meal or as a snack. Resembling a big lollipop, this rice cake is grilled on a skewer and glazed with sesame or miso paste, or even topped with crushed walnuts. One of the traditional shops serving this is Matsuya, which has been around since 1935 and sells 300 gohei-mochi every day on weekends. Owner Yachie Maruyama pounds the rice by hand, uses a secret recipe for her miso paste and grills the cakes over a charcoal fire. Miso paste is another example of a Japanese diet staple. Once reserved for

nobles and monks, miso, which has health benefits like preventing gastric disorders and lowering blood pressure, is made from fermented soybeans. It is now most commonly used in soups that are best paired with steaming hot Japanese rice for a simple yet comforting meal, or on gohei-mochi as a sweet, robust seasoning. Besides miso-paste gohei-mochi, Aichikogen-Okumikawa is known for the freshwater ayu fish, which can be eaten at restaurants like Chiyohimeso. A skewer is pierced into the fish mouth and through its body before it is cooked over charcoal. Although ayu fish can be stewed in soya sauce and sugar, the locals like it best grilled in its own deliciously briny oils. We can’t agree more.

GRILLED AYU FISH SKEWERS

R E S TA U R A N T S

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A FULL-FILLING JOURNEY

In Aichikogen-Okumikawa, you’ll find your all-time food faves but with a twist—think pizza with local ayu fish, curry rice shaped like a dam, and deep-fried wild boar.

It’s berry delicious Tucked away in the former Tobu elementary school—now creative hub Nokiyama Gakko—is the cosy Noki Cafe. On the menu, blueberry specials, such as milkshakes and pancakes, are made with fruit from a blueberry field managed by the owners. Try the popover, a pillowy puff stuffed with blueberries and cream. Wash it down with a latte that comes with coffee art depicting the café’s mascot Nikki. The café is linked to a school library, which has retained its original retro décor, right down to its old books and neatly stacked library loan cards.

Soba so yummy If the thought of slurping on steaming hot, handmade soba makes you happy, imagine doing so 700 metres above sea level with the scenic Japanese Southern Alps mountain range as the backdrop. This is what you get to do at Cha Zen Ichi, run by Takeyuki Obayashi who learnt to make soba in Tokyo and whose family owns the next-door Omoteyaen tea shop. He uses natural spring water to make the noodles and serves a special variety of two-coloured soba. Don’t leave without trying the green tea and black tea shaved ice. These desserts are powdery like fresh snow—Takeyuki’s secret lies in keeping the ice at minus 2 deg C—and topped with sencha powder, jelly, whipped cream and azuki red beans. A lesser-known dessert is the soba gaki zenzai, a sweet milky broth made with soba powder and eaten with red beans.

Tex-Mex in the Japanese mountains

Dam good curry There’s Japanese curry rice, and there’s damukare, or dam curry. This is inspired by the structure of dams which, in Japan, have fans who travel around the country to collect dam picture cards. At Toyone Green Port Miyajima Road Station near the Shintoyone dam, the damukare is made with Thai green curry (to mimic the neighbouring green lake). A generous amount of rice is moulded to form the “dam”, doing an amazing job at stopping the curry from flowing through. Also on the plate: a crispy potato croquette, an intricately sliced eggplant that acts as the dam’s “stairs”, and a whimsical shovel-shaped spoon. Besides dam curry, order the meaty fish balls made from sturgeon, yes, the fish that gives us luxurious caviar.

At a 90-year-old farmhouse at the foot of Mt Goten in Toei town, the last thing you’d expect to eat are nachos and Tex-Mex chilli. But these are what Nagoya native Kazuaki Kawahara and his Minnesota-born wife Tana serve at Tsukienko, an American diner-style restaurant. The rock ‘n’ roll lovers (Tana plays in a band) met at a music festival, which explains the musical instruments in the “hobby room” and event posters on the walls. The menu has deer salad, Japanese craft beers like Baird Beer, spiced hot cocoa and the signature spicy chicken wings. Hint: Kazuaki’s family runs a chain of fried chicken shops so you know you’re in good hands here.

R E S TA U R A N T S

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From forest to table You’ve heard of the “from farm to table” culinary movement. Now, try “from forest to table” at Mui café. Junko Shimizu first came to the Asuke region to learn farming but after finding out from the local farmers that wildlife was destroying their crops (and their livelihood), the soft-spoken former nurse became a professional hunter instead. She hunts mainly deer but can get you black crows or raccoons if you prefer. Then she cooks and serves the game in her woodlands-themed café. Signature dishes include the loco moco set with a wild boar patty, the deer hash, and the very addictive, skillfully marinated deep-fried wild boar that is crispy on the outside, tender on the inside—even better than regular pork!

Pizza topped with fish Hawaiian, Margherita, four cheese… just when you thought that you’ve tried every type of pizza out there, there’s the unusual ayu fish pizza with hatcho miso paste at Yuzunoki. Ayu fish, also known as sweetfish or “aroma fish”, is commonly caught and eaten in Aichi Prefecture. It is usually grilled in and eaten with nothing else but its natural briny juices. At Yuzunoki, the ayu fish pizza is baked in a special infrared-ray stone oven. The end product? A light, thin crust topped with moist fish that doesn’t dry out. Yuzunoki also offers minced chicken pizza and a lunch set with a steamed beancurd puff filled with chicken and egg. Cool down with yuzu shaved ice—the family that runs the café also owns a neighbouring yuzu farm—made with natural mineral water and packed with yuzu jelly, pudding, candied chestnuts and a hidden chunk of pound cake that you have to unearth from all that ice.

Traditional ryokan meets hipster bar Feast on the best of both the old and modern worlds at Hazu Bekkan and the Hoo! Hoo! bar two doors down. Helmed by UK-educated Naoyoshi Kato, both venues form a contrasting snapshot of what Aichikogen-Okumikawa is increasingly about. At Hazu Bekkan, the

traditional multi-course kaiseki dinner includes painstakingly prepped dishes like dobin-mushi, matsutake mushroom teapot soup, riverfish sashimi, mochi yuba, shabu shabu with chopstick-tender Hourai beef and four types of mushrooms, as well as salt-grilled ayu fish. An Instagram-friendly touch: rice littered with delicate chrysanthemum petals. Then, pop over to the very Wallpaper-worthy, minimalist Hoo! Hoo! for the house specials: ume soda or umeshu made with Jack Daniel whiskey.

Japanese beef, alpine ambience If you like your steak with a view, Banjar Komagahara is situated 900 metres above sea level. The Swiss alpine chalet-inspired restaurant serves Dando beef from its cattle farm down the road. While the restaurant opened only in 2013, owner Takeuchi Michio’s farm has been in business for more than 40 years. He tells us that the scenic mountainside environment lets his bovine farmstock “have a very peaceful mind”; plus, they feed on fresh underground spring water. This gives you sweet, juicy beef, without a gamey after-taste, even when the steak has cooled down. The menu only has about five items, with a choice of cuts like sirloin and rump that are eaten with seaweed salt and rock salt from Mongolia and the Himalayas. If the weather allows, have a BBQ at the al fresco tables.

JUNMAI GINJO WA® This sake will fill your mouth with the great harmony of sweetness and crisp sourness It is named after the phrase “Harmony (Wa) will brew great sake”

SEKIYA BREWERY CO., LTD. Main Factory/ Office 22 Machiura, Taguchi, Shitara-town, Kitashitara-county, Aichi, 441-2301, Japan TEL: +81-536-62-0505 FAX: +81-536-62-1556 http://www.houraisen.co.jp Ginjo Workshop 713 Minami mizuwakare, Kuroda-town, Toyota-city, Aichi, 441-2524, Japan TEL: +81-565-83-3601 FAX: +81-565-83-3583

HAZU RESORTS Yuya Hot Spring is the home for four of the Hazu Inns, and is a tiny, quiet spa town set in the heart of OkuMikawa, one of the loveliest regions of Aichi prefecture. A district of high, green hills intersected by deep valleys with swiftly-flowing rivers and traditional farming communities, Oku-Mikawa offers the increasingly rare experience of an older, slower, more relaxing Japan.

Address: 11-4 Toyooka aza Takiue, Shinshiro City, Aichi, Japan 441-1605 Tel: 0536-32-1211(8:00~22:00) E-mail: info@hazu.co.jp http://www.hazu.co.jp/

Nukata Experience Village is a community-based facility where you can experience harvesting Organic Yuzu and Ouhan-Chicken eggs, a specialty product of Okazaki City, Aichi- Prefecture. We also have a Cafe where you can taste these specialties!

MIYAZAKIEN do not use pesticides or chemical fertilizers on the tea leaves. It is so safe children can enjoy it!

MIYAZAKIEN

Teiguchi 38, Ishihara-cho, Okazaki City, Aichi Japan 444-3601 E-mail: cafeyuzuki6@gmail.com Fax: +81-564-83-2770 Opening Hours: 10:00~17:00 (cafe 11:00~)

(since 1820)

Adress: 8 aino, Ishihara-cho, Okazaki City, Aichi Japan 444-3601 E-mail: info@miyazakien.com Fax: +81-564-83-2816 Opening Hours: 9:00 - 18:00 (close on every Thursday)

www.miyazakien.com

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COUNTRYSIDE CHARM

Live and eat with local farmers, get in touch with nature and make anything from face powder to yuzu kosho.

View the flower “carpet” at Kyukamura Chausuyama-Kogen

Time your trip in May and June for the Shibazakura Festival when pink, white and purple flowers carpet 22,000 square metres of land across Mt Chausuyama Plateau’s Shibazakura-no-oka Hill which is 1,360 metres above sea level. If you stay at the

Kyukamura Chausuyama-Kogen, a resort on the highest peak of Aichi Prefecture, take the ski lift to get a bird’s eye view of the flower “carpets”. At night, take part in the resort’s deer-watching safari for free. A guide leads you through total darkness to a grassland hill where wild deer come after dusk to feed on the pasture. If you’re lucky, you may spot up to 100 of the creatures.

LEARN TO MAKE SAKE AT GINJO WORKSHOP

You’ll appreciate your sake more when you see the amount of work and time that goes into making it. For instance, white rice is brittle after it is polished, so brewers wait two weeks before washing and steaming it. Then, the all-important fermentation process itself is meticulous, requiring many man-hours and steps. To see this for yourself, Sekiya Brewery, one of the leading sake producers in Aichi Prefecture, holds tours at Ginjo

BE A TREE HUGGER IN DANDO HIGHLANDS

To get in touch with Mother Nature, sign up for a walk with Hirotoshi Kato. The soft-spoken guide, commissioned by the Ministry of Environment to conduct treks in the Dando Highlands Nature Park, has 25 years’ experience. His guided walks take anything from an hour to three. While he suggests visiting in May when you can hear birds chirping and enjoy the refreshing scent of verdant plants, Kato will organise sessions during winter “if you are up to it”. During your walk, he will share his immense knowledge about trees in the forest, pointing out the majestic fir and birch trees.

Workshop in Toyota City, which reportedly welcomes 50,000 visitors every year. You can also buy sakes exclusive to this venue here. Locals head here to order custom-made sakes for weddings and birthday events, complete with personalised bottle labels.

LIVE JUST LIKE THE LOCALS AT DANON

At Danon, a charming 150-year-old house, Ai Kinjo lets you “stay like a resident of Okumikawa”. She acts as the bridge between guests and village locals, who hardly get to interact with travellers. View fireflies, tour farms and harvest produce like tomatoes and soybeans, which are used to make pizza and soy milk back at Danon. As the idea here is to foster a sense of community, Ai and her guests cook and eat together. There are three rooms, though larger groups can opt for outdoor camping tents. And if you are exhausted from all the farming, Ai’s business partner offers Thai massage treatments.

EXPERIENCE

GET ARTISANAL AT AOYAMA

DO THE FLYING FOX AND MORE AT FOREST ADVENTURE SHINSHIRO

Test your hand-eye coordination and balancing skills at this fun activity park, which offers five adventure courses. The most difficult one takes up to two hours to complete. After a safety briefing by the park ranger, get onto the balance beam and the Tarzan swing, and then zip across the forest on the Flying Fox. There are staff stationed throughout the courses, and you are hooked up to a safety harness at all times. The bonus: a scenic view of the surrounding forest greenery.

Aoyama co-founder Kazushi Aoyama’s name card is handcrafted from wood— a good introduction to his brand that he started with wife Yuki. Kazushi makes items like clocks, cups and lampshades with wood from pine, elm and cedar trees in Japan. If you like leather bags and small accessories, Yuki crafts these with calf leather from Italy and Japan. Some products are a mix of the couple’s expertise, like leather totes with wooden handles. They sell their wares online, at pop-up events and also at their showroom on selected days every month.

BLEND YOUR OWN MAKEUP AT NOKIYAMA GAKKO

Nokiyama Gakko, a creative hub on the premises of a former elementary school, is where you can learn to make pizza and mineral makeup. Toei-town, where Nokiyama Gakko is located, is the only place in Japan that produces sericite or kinuunmo. The silky mineral from Toei-town is said to be purer and whiter, and even established makeup brands source their supplies here. Sign up for the Naori workshop and you’ll get to pound, blend and create your own shade of mineral power face foundation that you’ll take home in a little pot. You can also make other beauty products including bath bombs, blushers, soap and body powder, plus do a tour of the sericite mine.

MAKE YUZU KOSHO AT NUKATA TAIKEN-MURA

A former tea plantation, the yuzu farm at Nukata Cultural Experience Centre now has 1,000 yuzu trees. The owners switched crops after realising that wild boars and monkeys did not attack yuzu trees. As the yuzu rind is often used in dishes, drinks and desserts, the fruit here is organic so that the rind can be consumed safely. Visitors get to harvest the fragrant fruit on the plantation and also make yuzu kosho, a yuzu and green chilli paste, from the freshly plucked fruit. To taste more of the yuzu in other ways, the in-house café serves it in shaved ice and sells yuzu honey.

REST AND RELAX AT A FARMERS’ B&B, TINCHANTEI

Feel right at home in this cosy guesthouse run by married couple Keisuke and Keiko Suzuki. It operates mainly on solar energy and was built with chemical-free materials (the ceilings were constructed with eggshells). Tinchantei can take up to 10 guests, with one of the bedrooms even having an inviting hammock by the window. The friendly Keiko plans meals depending on what is grown on the farm—think pumpkin soup, pasta with basil, and meat-stuffed green peppers—and she will even make tempura with grass from the nearby mountains. You’ll never be bored as there are ad-hoc workshops done by local experts on topics like food foraging.

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GIFTS FROM NATURE

From mountain mist-sheltered tea to sake made with spring water, it’s easy to bring home a piece of Aichikogen-Okumikawa for family and friends.

SAKE THE HIPSTER WAY

If you love your sake, DawariYa stocks about 5,000 types of the traditional Japanese drink as well as wine and beer. It even has Kirin paper cups for those who want the complete party package. The wood-decked shop houses a 40 square metre sake and wine cellar, where the temperature is kept at a constant (and perfect) 10 deg C and where bottles of sake are lined up, in ascending order of dryness or sweetness. If you can’t wait to sip some, the savvy owners, who were inspired by wineries they had visited in France, have a tasting counter where you can try six types of sake for a reasonable price. They also have a beer tank dispenser with seasonal flavours, like raspberry, and a fresh sake dispenser for the true connoisseur who doesn’t want any preservatives in their tipple. Another must-buy: clear, crisp Japan wine, made from koshu grapes, that goes well with sushi.

SEEDING A NEW TREND

Atsushi Sugiura wants to share the wonder of tea seed oil with the rest of the world. And he’s doing it with just one cold-press machine and a cosy shed. He used to have very sensitive skin but after using cold-pressed tea seed oil, he now feels healthier. Today, he sells the preservative-free oil under his Shitara Nature Factory brand at selected salons and roadside stations. The brand is a one-man show for now, with Sugiura picking seeds from organic tea plantations. It’s hard work as he needs about 300 seeds to concoct the oil for a tiny 11-millilitre bottle. But he says that it’s all worth it because the nutrient-rich tea seeds make a powerful moisturiser for very dry skin.

CURRY FAVOUR WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS

The next time you have guests over for dinner, cook Japanese beef curry in as quick as five minutes. Here’s how: Buy this premium Dando beef curry pre-mix from Banjar Komagahara, a steak restaurant that sources its meat from the restaurant owner’s cattle farm, which has been around for 44 years. The beef from the farm is known as Dando, named after the mountains that sit right in front of it. Dando beef is used in the curry pre-mix, along with other ingredients including Bonito flakes. Throw in carrots, onions, potatoes and an egg or two, and you have a satisfying and almost-instant one-dish feast.

SWEET TEMPTATION

Nobody we know can ever resist fluffy, hot pancakes doused in thick maple syrup. But did you know that Japan or, to be more precise, Aichikogen-Okumikawa, produces its own maple syrup? Nature specialist Hirotoshi Kato, who’s also a maple syrup producer, tells us that he goes deep into the Dando forest in winter to source for the product’s main ingredient, which is the sap from maple trees. At the Mokkuru Shinshiro roadside station, we found some brands of locally produced maple syrup. Drizzle some over buttered toast and creamy yogurt for a sumptuous breakfast.

SOUVENIRS

THE CUTEST SAKE CUP

Founded in 1830, the family behind Shibata Brewery began producing and selling sake only because they had surplus rice. Few people knew about them back then as the brewery was located deep in the mountains. But in 1898, a fire in their cellar caused the sake in barrels to leak into the nearby river and drift downstream to the centre of Okazaki City. This was when the townspeople realised they had a sake brewery in their midst! Today, Shibata Brewery uses one of Japan’s softest sources of water—known poetically as kanzui or God’s water—that flows from the mountain behind its premises straight into its well. This is how the brewery produces its smooth sakes, which include Kimoto Junmaigensyu, Yamahai Junmaigensyu and Junmaidaiginjo Murokanama. If you’re lucky, you may still be able to get your hands on the limited-edition and adorably-designed sake cup featuring Okazaemon, the Okazaki City mascot.

HAVE YOUR (SAKE) CAKE AND EAT IT

Sekiya Sake brewery is known for producing the Houraisen sake line, which includes the Junmai Daiginjo Kuu and Bi sakes. At its spacious brewing facility in Aichi, it churns out the equivalent of 300,000 1.8-litre bottles every year, paying attention to the most minute details. For instance, it uses “soft” water from the company’s own spring. Even though such water makes the rice fermentation process more difficult, it makes the sake taste better. What also caught our eye: sake-infused food souvenirs, such as soba noodles, ice cream that tastes milky with just the slightest alcoholic undertone, and sake cake that reminds us of yummy, buttery pound cake.

IT’S TEA-TIME

In Japan, premium grade gyokuro tea leaves are usually protected from the weather by a net. At Omoteyaen, the plants are not sheltered by real nets, but by natural mountain mist and the mountains in the Misono area. Hence, the tea from these plantations, sitting 600 metres above sea level, is dubbed “nature-made gyokuro”. It is grown without pesticides or chemicals, and the family behind this business uses only the first harvest of the season when the plant buds are younger, softer and still bug-free. The result: a more refreshing and aromatic tea. Besides enjoying your cup of tea with picturesque views, you can also slurp on handmade soba at Cha Zen Ichi next door. Chef-owner Takeyuki Obayashi learnt to make soba noodles in Tokyo using natural spring water, and serves a special variety of two-coloured soba. It’s also available to take home, along with varieties of loose tea leaves and tea bags of different flavours, such as sencha green tea, hojicha brown tea and black tea.

RICE, RICE, BABY

Most of the rice fields in Japan are flat, unless you visit the unusual terraced ones at Yotsuya Senmaida at the foot of Mt Kurakake. All the 1,296 rice terraces here were constructed meticulously like castle walls… 400 years ago when there was little technology available. Even today, farmers manning the rice terraces have had to build wider roads to access their fields on their tractors. To bring back a piece of Yotsuya Senmaida, literally, look out for this brand of goheimochi, a rice cake made with rice from Yotsuya Senmaida. Resembling a huge popsicle, goheimochi is commonly eaten in Aichi Prefecture. The rice is skewered, coated with a sweet red miso paste and grilled until caramelised.

PEOPLE

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MEET THE GAME CHANGERS Atsushi Umemura, Miyazakien

This dapper 39-yearold looks nothing like a traditional tea farmer. Not surprising since Umemura, the sixthgeneration owner of the Miyazakien tea house that has been around since 1820, wants to modernise the art of tea drinking .

How different is Miyazakien from other tea businesses in Japan? We are unusual in how we see through the entire process, from processing the tea to selling the leaves wholesale and even serving tea on our premises. In 2006, we also became the first organic tea farm in Aichi Prefecture. How do you attract new customers? As a wholesaler, we usually supply our products to businesses elsewhere but I want people to come visit us directly instead. So, on the second level of our teahouse, we conduct experiential workshops like flower arrangement lessons. How else are you modernising your tea business? As a wholesaler, we can’t really change the style of our tea products too much. So, we try and serve tea in different new ways. For example, we sell houjicha flavoured shaved ice. This attracts long queues of customers, and we can sell about 100 bowls in a day. But with the shaved ice, we serve tea too, so customers can taste it and be encouraged to purchase our tea leaves. We also experiment with different ways of drinking tea: serving green tea in teacups with ice chips or in a wine decanter-inspired bottle and in wine glasses.

Naoyoshi Kato, Hazu Resort and Hoo! Hoo!

13 rooms. Our town has a history of onsens. The interesting thing about Hazu Bekkan is our rooms don’t have a fixed price. It was my father’s idea 35 years ago to let guests decide on how much they want to pay for their rooms. Tell us more about Hoo! Hoo! and its unusual name. Owls are common in Aichi Prefecture, so Hoo! Hoo! is named after the sound that they make. Also, the name is a little influenced by our old town name. We did not have a café or a bar in this village, and I was hoping to start something a bit more sophisticated. Hopefully, this will make our town more hip and give foreign visitors a place to hang out at. I man the bar counter myself and we have a guesthouse with five rooms upstairs. Most of the guests at the moment are Japanese though we have hosted Americans and Hong Kongers too.

London-educated Kato runs Hazu Bekkan, a traditional ryokan that is part of the hotel business started by his grandfather 70 years ago. But the 44-year-old has injected his own modern aesthetic into the ultra-hip Hoo! Hoo! bar.

Have you always been in the hospitality business? My family owns about four hotels in this town including Hazu Bekkan, which has onsens and

What do you love most about Aichikogen-Okumikawa? As a child, I used to swim in Uregawa River (most of the rooms in Hazu Bekkan overlook this river). Now, I love my soul food, which is gohei-mochi (grilled rice cake commonly eaten in the area). Hopefully we can make this place more interesting for visitors by introducing new attractions. I would love to share more about our Japanese festivals and traditions with foreign visitors.

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ENJOY

A I C H I KO G E N-O K U M I K AWA F U L L Y E A R

From spring to winter, Aichikogen-Okumikawa will put you in a relaxing mood with its limitless array of natural highlights.

NATURE ALL YEAR ROUND SUMMER

SPRING

(June to August)

(March to May)

Along the Nakura river in Shimizu district, Shitara-chō, you’ll find a picture-perfect backdrop of blossoming Kohigan sakura flowers—so pretty in pink!

Fishing for ayu is a popular pastime at the Furikusa River in Tōei-chō. The ayu fish from this river has won a prize for best taste in a competition in Japan.

AUTUMN

(September to November)

urai temple s above sea level, the Ho Perched about 700 metre autumn. in age foli e to beautiful in Shinshiro City is hom

with dense forest Located in a e th s, am re mountain st ge in Okazaki Kuragari Gor spot. eal camping City is an id

WINTER

(December to February)

At Korankei in Toyota Cit y, you can view momiji (m aple) trees that were planted 380 years ago by Mieosho, a monk of Kojakuji Temple.

If you ski, don’t miss the opportunity to do so at Mt. Chausuyama in Toyone village with its prized view 1,358 metres above ground.

LISTINGS

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Food/Restaurant Matsuya 59-8 Toyooka aza Takiue, Shinshiro City, Aichi 441-1631 Tel: 053-632-0819 Chiyohimeso 13-3 Nakashitara aza Nishimukai, Tōei-chō, Kitashitara-gan, Aichi 449-0211 Tel: 0536-76-0489

Nokki Café Nokiyama Gakko, 13-7 Shimoda aza Nokiyama, Tōei-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 440-0206 Tel:0536-76-1722 Green Port Miyajima 29-3 Sakauba aza Miyanoshima, Toyone-mura, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 449-0405 Tel: 0536-87-2009 Cha Zen Ichi 118-10, Misono aza Sakaba, Tōei-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 449-0201 Tel: 0536-76-0621 Tsukienko 11-4 Tsuki aza Fukawada, Tōei-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 449-0212 Tel: 053-676-0303

Sight Chausuyama-Kogen Sakauba aza Goshodaira, Toyone-mura, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 449-0405 Tel: 0536-87-2345

Ginjo Workshop (Sekiya Brewery) 713 Minami Mizuwakare, Kuroda-cho Toyota City, Aichi 441-2524 Tel: 0565-83-3601

Yamazato Café Mui 26 Ubadaira Kitakoda-chō, Toyota-City, Aichi 444-2502 Tel: 090-5037-5199

Aoyama 27 Kiyosaki aza Ushigakubo, Shitara-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 441-2302 Tel: 0536-62-1130

Hazu Bekkan & Hoo Hoo! 11-4 Toyooka aza Takiue, Shinshiro City, Aichi 441-1605 Tel: 0536-32-1211

Forest Adventure Shinshiro Sogo Park, 40 Asaya Hiyoita, Shinshiro City, Aichi 441-1312 Tel: 090-7033-0446

Banjar Komagahara 99-1 Nishinagura aza Komagahara, Shitara-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 441-2431 Tel: 0536-65-0437

Naori Nokiyama Gakko, 13-7 Shimoda aza Nokiyama, Tōei-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 440-0206 Tel: 0536-76-1780

Omoteya-en 118-10 Misono aza Sakuba, Tōei-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 449-0201 Tel: 05367-6-0621

Shopping Miyazakien 8 Aino, Ishihara-cho, Okazaki City, Aichi 444-3601 Tel: 0564-83-2710 Dawariya 23-6 Sugiyama aza Ohigashi, Shinshiro-City, Aichi 441-1341 Tel: 053-623-2211 Tea seed oil/ Shitara Nature Factory 11 Damine aza Mukai, Shitara-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 441-2221 Tel: 050-5317-4555

Yuzunoki/Nukata Taiken-mura 38 Teiguchi, Ishihara-chō, Okazaki City, Aichi 444-3601 Tel:0564-83-2069

Shibata Shuzojo 39 Hokkyūchō aza Kanzui, Okazaki-City, Aichi 444-3442 Tel: 0564-84-2007 Jyunmaidaiginjo Kuu cake Available at Ginjo Workshop, major souvenir shops

Dando Highland Nature Park Tamine aza Dando, Shitara-chō, Shitara-gun, Aichi 441-2221

Danon 6-1 Shimomaehata, Hongō, Tōei-chō, Kitashitara-gun, Aichi 449-0214 Tel: 0536-76-1860

Tinchantei 4 Teranoiri, Oshii-cho, Toyota City, Aichi 444-2812 Tel: 090-1280-0033

Special Thanks:

Maple Sylup, Gohei-mochi, Mokkuru Shinshiro Roadside Station 329-7 Yatsukaho Gotanda, Shinshiro City, Aichi 441-1318 Tel: 0536-24-3005 Dando Beef Curry Available at Banjar Komagahara, Mokkuru Shinshiro roadside station

*Dial from Overseas to Japan +81 (Country code) Area code (omit first zero) Land phone number

Mr. Hironobu Mizuno Senior manager Marketing planning division CBC Creation Co., Ltd

Shin Toyone Dam

Dam Curry

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NISHIO

Nature’s blessings that help the growth of the ingredients for the premium Matcha Nishio City and its surrounding areas in Aichi are the birthplaces of the premium Matcha. This area has a lavish display of nature, water supply from the Yahagigawa river, rich soil that is carried and deposited by the river, and a mild climate that is perfect for Matcha making. Over 90% of the tea leaves cultivated in the Nishio region is Tencha, the ingredient of Matcha.

AICHI PREFECTURE

Nishio Matcha, Japan’s first regional brand of Matcha. Nishio proudly offers the single-origin Matcha to the world “Nishio Matcha” is a prime example of a regional brand; a combination of the cultivation of tea leaves and the unique regional production of tea is practiced all locally from the beginning to the end. This purest form of the single-origin Matcha is rare in Japan and across the world.

Nishio’s production of Tencha contributes to 20% of the Tencha production in Japan. While we may not be a mass producer of Tencha in Japan, we are proud to be the quality leader of Tencha. Our philosophy is the opposite of today’s fast and cheap mass production. Not only being a single-origin Matcha, but the great care, time and love that the tea specialists display in fields is what also makes the world-class Matcha. Uji and Shizuoka Japanese teas may be famous for their green tea. However, Nishio is the place that specializes in Matcha.

The cultivation process that makes Nishio Matcha special; a cover and “Tana” To give the “vibrant green”, “elegant aroma” and “smooth umami and rich flavour” to the tea, tea leaves are grown under a special cover to shield them from direct sunlight. This helps the growth of the tea leaves, suppressing the bitter Tannin while promoting the sweet Theanine from the leaves. The cover is placed over a Tana framework that is built over the tea trees. This unique method makes this premium tea production possible.

In February 2009, Nishio Matcha was certified as the “Regional Group Trademark” by the patent office of the Japanese government. Many “Japanese tea” regional brands, such as Uji tea and Shizuoka tea, scatter across Japan. Nishio Matcha is first in the country to receive the “Regional Group Trademark” that specifies for Matcha. Only Matcha beverages and products that use locally grown tea leaves, and go through all the processes, such as the Tencha processing, refining, and Chausu stone grinding, without leaving Nishio city, Anjo City and Hazu gun Kiracho in Aichi, can be labelled with this sign. Furthermore, Nishio Matcha is first to be tagged to GI (Geographical Indication) for Matcha in March 2017 for its tradition and art.

Nishio Tea Cooperative Association 4 Chome-18-4 Sumiyoshicho, Nishio, Aichi Prefecture 445-0851, Japan TEL/FAX +81-0563-57-2261 http://nishiomatcha.jp/nishiomatcha/

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Welcome to WESTERN HONSHU Also known as Chugoku region, this rugged region of Japan promises a wealth of striking landscapes, rich culture and gastronomic delights.

he western extremity of the main Honshu island is a wonderful study of contrasts, shimmering seas and jagged mountains, old-world charm and modern comforts, steeped in history yet packed with enough action. Chugoku region is where to go if you want a vacation that has it all. It’s Japan in a nutshell, if you like. As the Chugoku San-chi mountains run across the region from east to west, travelling from north to south is limited for public transportation. So the best way to discover Chugoku region is by following the circumference of the region. We looped through the area on a recent road trip and explored the highlights of four of its prefectures—Hiroshima, Okayama, Shimane and Yamaguchi.

Hiroshima Prefecture: Action-packed and alluring

For something a little quirky, head to Tadanoumi port and catch the ferry to scenic Okunoshima. Overcoming its dark past as a poison gas factory during World War II, Okunoshima is known as Rabbit Island because it is now home to 700 adorable bunnies. It’s a magnet for animal lovers and other visitors, who visit the island to hike, camp or simply enjoy views of the Seto Inland Sea. A more vigorous activity is bicycling through the islands of the Seto Inland Sea via the Shimanami Kaido network of road bridges. One easy route is to cycle to Setoda town in Ikuchijima on the 1.5-kilometre-long Tatara Ohashi Bridge, one of the world’s longest cable-stayed bridges. Hop on your bike and you will whizz above cobalt blue waters, yellow sand beaches and lush green forest.

Take a breather in Onomichi—with its temple-filled hills, timeworn railway tracks and stone staircases—which has starred in several Japanese movies. This quaint town is known for ramen; try Onomichi Ramen Ajimen, which offers a pork and soy sauce broth with its secret ingredient, sardine. Then head to Tamaganzo Izakaya, where you can sample local fish cake, or gansu, and regional sake. Who can resist the magic of Miyajima island? Itsukushima Shrine, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is a must see, with its vermillion torii gate rising from the Inland Sea. At low tide, you can walk up to the gate on the sand flats. But high tide makes for the best photos, when the torii looks like it is floating on the surface of the water. Don’t forget to explore the island’s food shops, eateries and souvenir stores. But stay clear of the roving deer, who aren’t afraid to steal the manju (local castella cake) from your hands. Hiroshima Prefecture is renowned for oysters (kaki) and okonomiyaki (savory pancake). The ultimate foodie experience here is to have barbecued oysters by the Inland Sea. Check out Shimada Suisan Oyster Hut near Miyajima, where you can indulge in regional Magaki oysters, said to be the plumpest and sweetest in Japan. For your next meal, head to the lively Hiroshima Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae Hiroba (Okonomiyaki Square), near Hiroshima station, to make your own okonomiyaki at one of the about 20 shops here.

Okayama Prefecture: A rural area full of charm

and culture

Kurashiki, a town in Okayama, was once a dynamic shipping port between the 1600s and 1800s. Today, it has a historic merchant quarter that’s a fun place to explore. In the Bikan Chiku neighbourhood, willow trees droop over canals and bridges, while Edo-era merchants’ homes and textile warehouses now hold stylish hotels and museums. Kurashiki is also known for its textiles, like denim. You can rent a denim kimono and play dress up as you stroll through the heritage town. Or have a go at arts and crafts at washi masking tape specialist Nyochiku-do. The first and most popular washi

tape brand, MT, was founded by three women here in Kurashiki in 2008. In Okayama City, wander through the famous Korakuen, one of Japan’s top three landscape gardens. Ponds, streams, groves of maple, apricot and cherry trees, teahouses and even a crane aviary sit in the grounds, which surround the city’s jet-black U-jo or Crow Castle. Over in the countryside, Okayama Prefecture is one of the top producers of Muscat grapes and white peaches in Japan. Several grape farms in the area even let you pick the grapes and eat them. The largest is Kubo Farm, where juicy Muscat Alexandria grapes are ready for collecting from end August to early November. Their tip: Crush and freeze the grape before eating. The frozen texture will be like a sherbet.

The romantic mountain town of Tsuwano in Shimane offers temples, old Catholic churches and history. Facing the extinct volcano Aonoyama, its small streets are lined with samurai houses and carp-filled canals. Tsuwano also has a 400-year history of Sekishu paper-making. Get hands on at Saranoki, where you can make goldleaf-flecked postcards and decorative paper in the traditional way, using fibres of mulberry tree bark.

Yamaguchi Prefecture: The Kyoto of western Japan

Shimane Prefecture: Historic spots by the Sea of Japan

Shimane Prefecture’s capital city Matsue sits by Lake Shinji. You can sightsee it by taking a Horikawa river boat ride down canals and around the old castle moat. On the hour-long ride, the boatman will croon folk songs and warn you to “bow down” as the boat’s roof is mechanically lowered every time it passes a low bridge. But among the most stunning sights you can immerse yourself in is the Izumo Taisha Grand Shrine. Dedicated to the god of marriage, Okuninushi-no-Okami, this remarkable Shinto shrine is classed among the oldest and largest in Japan, and dates back 1,500 years. It is said that during the 10th month of the lunar calendar every year, all of Japan’s eight million Shinto deities gather here. You can’t miss the cute rabbit statues, symbolising the Rabbit of Inaba which was rescued by Okuninushi-no-Okami, placed on the temple’s grounds. Neither should you neglect the Kaguraden hall’s enormous shimenawa (twisted straw rope), which, at 5.2 tonnes and 36 metres long, takes 50 men about a year to make.

In the hills around Hagi in Yamaguchi sits Unrinji or Cat Temple. Visitors come from all over Asia, from Taiwan to Thailand, just to admire the many cat statues, amulets and carvings, all dedicated to a legendary samurai’s loyal cat. The fishing port town of Hagi is the place to taste local seafood and check out pastel-hued earthenware. Tuck into superb yet affordable sashimi at bustling Hagi Seaside Market. With its fish market and 17 shops and eateries, the complex brings in a billion yen a year in sales. It’s also a great place to pick up local and regional food souvenirs such as dried fugu, lemon cakes and squid tempura chips. Away from Hagi, Yamaguchi City’s Rurikoji Temple shows off a beautifully preserved 600-year-old, five-storey pagoda, flanked by sakura trees. Made from dark cypress bark, it is one of the country’s top three pagodas and a designated national treasure. Yamaguchi Prefecture includes several onsen towns, like Yuda Onsen. Soak your cares away with sake or coffee at Yuda Onsen Welcome Square, a stylish public foot bath set in an outdoor garden and in sleek, minimalist rooms. Then head to dinner at popular Choshuya Yuda, which specialises in Yamaguchi-style kawara soba, a buckwheat noodle and meat dish served on a sizzling hot tile. Away from Yuda Onsen and towards Hiroshima City are historic Iwakuni and its Kintaikyo, the most famous wooden bridge in the world. Measuring 193 metres long and 5 metres wide, the bridge over Nishiki River has a history that began in the 17th century. The wood is replaced every 50 years and was last restored in 2004.

How to get to Chugoku region

The easiest and fastest way to get to Chugoku region from Singapore is through the city of Hiroshima via SilkAir. The regional wing of Singapore Airlines started the first non-stop flights between Singapore and Hiroshima in October 2017, and now flies direct to Hiroshima Airport from Changi Airport. SilkAir flies to and returns from Hiroshima three times a week, on Mondays, Thursdays and Sundays. From 7 January to 24 February 2019, SilkAir will be flying two times a week, on Mondays and Thursdays only. Flights depart Singapore at 1.45 am and reach Hiroshima at 9 am. Those leaving Hiroshima depart Hiroshima at 10 am and reach Singapore at 3.30 pm. Hiroshima Airport is a 45-minute drive to the centre of Hiroshima City.

cool bites

FACE OFF

Ceramics artist Takahiro Koga has designed a unique style of sake cups inspired by samurai armour.

INSPIRED BY HISTORY He was inspired by the hohoyoroi when he began studying about the chado, or tea ceremony, which was an important practice of that time period. The mask played a dual role of protecting the samurai’s face and also scaring the enemy as it was often designed to look frightening. The 31-year-old has always been a fan of history and loves learning about the samurai era. “I like to infuse the culture of the past generation into my products,” he explains. Koga, who splits his time between his studios in Fukuoka and Kagoshima, came up with the idea for the cups in 2012, after spending time in a workshop in Kagoshima, where the bulk of Japan’s samurai armour is currently being produced. “I wanted to create a new experience. Ceramics is not something that can usually be worn but I designed these so that people will naturally want to try them on,” he says. Growing up, Koga was always interested in art and when he had the

chance to go to university, he knew he wanted to pursue that passion. However, there wasn’t a suitable art programme in his area so he ended up going to Saga University where he studied art and crafts at the Faculty of Education. Saga Prefecture is well known for both arita and karatsu styles of pottery and Koga had the opportunity to study the craft. “That was my first exposure to pottery and I really got into it,” he says. “I felt like I had to keep on creating and I couldn’t think of anything else but that.”

ENJOYING THE JOURNEY Koga likes working with ceramics and clay because of the unpredictable nature of the medium. He won’t always know how the final colour and quality of the end product will turn out because it depends on the temperature and condition of the oven. “Taking the artwork out can sometimes give me a good surprise. It’s a journey for me to find out what I have created,” he says. Another motif that appears often in his work is studs or spikes, which he uses to represent power and strength. He typically takes two to three months to create new designs and can make up to 100 pieces of a design before finding the one piece that he’s happy with to continue working on. Koga’s work has been showcased at international festivals such as Maison&Objet Paris and Salone del Mobile Milan. He’s now keen to exhibit his work at contemporary galleries around the world such as in Hong Kong and New York. “I want my art to be seen by many people,” he says.

TEXT SITI ROHANI

f you’ve ever had sake, you would have noticed that sake cups, or ochoko, come in different styles and materials. They are often small, round cups made of ceramic, porcelain or glass, or wooden cube-shaped cups known as masu. However, Fukuoka-born ceramics artist Takahiro Koga has designed something truly unique—a wearable sake cup inspired by the cheek guards, or hohoyoroi, worn by ancient samurai warriors.

recipe

Delicious, delightful

DAIKON

Cocopelli Presents

Certified professional vegetable sommelier and athlete food meister Mikiko Mogami whips up her special recipes using the Japanese radish.

DAIKON OROSHI

Ingredients

Daikon, as much as you require

Method 1. Peel the daikon and cut in half lengthways. 2. Hold the daikon at a right angle to the grater. Grate the daikon in a circular motion. 3. Place the grated daikon in a colander and squeeze out any excess moisture. (Try not to dry the grated daikon completely by squeezing out all the moisture. It should still feel quite moist.)

ight now in Akita Prefecture where I live, the first snow is falling. It is the season to tuck into a number of Japanese winter foods, like daikon. Although this Japanese radish is eaten all year round, it is at its peak of flavour, known as “shun”, during the cold. Daikon may be a common ingredient but it is delicious and has many health benefits! It contains vitamin C that’s good for your immune system, especially in Japan in chillier weather. Raw, fresh daikon also has three types of enzymes that help your body digest starch, protein and fat better. No wonder daikon oroshi, or grated daikon, makes a wonderful side dish with heavier, oilier and protein-rich meals. It helps to cut through the richness of dishes such as tonkatsu (breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet), grilled meat like steak, and tempura. Daikon also tastes good in miso soup or in an aemono (dressed salad). Different parts of the daikon are used in varied ways: The top near the leaves is sweetest and best

used raw, like in daikon oroshi. The middle is sweet and used in stews and simmered dishes. The bottom is spiciest and best for hotter daikon oroshi or strongly flavoured dishes. When making the first recipe, daikon oroshi, always use the freshest daikon you can find—these will have a smooth and shiny exterior. If you can, use a purpose-built daikon oroshi grater, which you can find at Japanese supermarkets. The resulting texture will be finer and more “snow-like”. Once grated, please eat it as soon as possible for the nutritious value. It’s best to prepare daikon oroshi right before you eat. The Japanese-style sautéed chicken recipe uses shiso (perilla) leaf and umeboshi (pickled plum). Their sour flavour is very Japanese in style and will whet your appetite. The last recipe uses a Japanese vegetable called komatsuna in a simple cooking method. This green leafy vegetable is used frequently in Japan and I hope it will be a unique taste for you too in Singapore!

TEXT DENYSE YEO RECIPES COCOPELLI

(Grated Japanese Radish)

Japanese-style Sautéed Chicken

Komatsuna and Chicken Mizore-ae*

Ingredients (2 servings)

Ingredients (4 servings)

chicken thighs

100g

daikon radish

shiso (perilla) leaves

bunch of komatsuna (Japanese mustard spinach) or substitute with leafy vegetables like spinach and bok choy

medium umeboshi (salted plum)

chicken fillets, about 100g total

2

tbsp vinegar

tbsp sake

tsp salt

200g

grated daikon

tbsp ponzu dressing

 2–3 tsp honey 1

tbsp soy sauce

1

tsp vegetable oil

Salt and pepper, as required Flour, as required Vegetable oil, as required

Method 1. Remove the seed from the umeboshi and mash the flesh with the side of a kitchen knife. Finely chop 4 shiso leaves. Cut the other 2 leaves into thin strips and leave aside. Grate the daikon. 2. Place the starred ingredients () and umeboshi in a bowl. Add the chopped shiso leaves and mix together thoroughly. 3. Season the chicken meat and dust lightly with flour. 4. Add some oil to a frying pan, and cook the chicken over high heat, skin side down, until crisp. Turn the chicken over and cover. Cook on medium heat until fully cooked through. 5. When cooked, cut the chicken into bite-size pieces and place on a plate. 6. Coat the mixture from Step 2, then top with the grated daikon and shiso strips. The dish is now ready to serve.

Method 1. Place the grated daikon in a colander to drain off any excess moisture. 2. Trim the fat off the chicken fillets. Marinate the meat in the salt and sake. Place in a heatproof dish, and cook in the microwave on high for one minute or until cooked. Turn the meat over, and then cook for another minute or until cooked. Allow to cool. 3. Bring a pot of water to the boil and quickly cook the komatsuna or other leafy vegetables. Cool the vegetables in cold water. When cooled, squeeze out any excess moisture. Cut into 3cm lengths. 4. When the chicken has cooled slightly, cut into bite-sized pieces. 5. Place the vegetables, chicken and grated daikon in a bowl. Mix together thoroughly. 6. Add ponzu dressing. Mix everything together briskly. Serve on a dish immediately. *Mizore-ae is a grated daikon dressing with soy sauce and vinegar.

ABOUT MIKIKO MOGAMI Mikiko Mogami is a renowned Certified Professional Vegetable Sommelier and Athlete Food Meister from Akita Prefecture. She creates menus and advises athletes on their nutritional needs when they are competing. Mogami is a keen advocate for including more vegetables in our diet and regularly contributes articles on the subject. She also presents lectures and conducts TV and radio interviews. Her motto is to help everyone enjoy vegetables and eat well. Mogami works with Cocopelli, a brand that promotes produce from Akita Prefecture to the rest of Japan. She helps to create recipes that showcase the wholesome products. All Cocopelli products are carefully selected to reflect the beliefs and passions of the people who produce them. Website: http://azuma-trading.co.jp/cocopelli

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Izumisano,Takeo, TsubameSanjo Highlights of Three Cities in Japan

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SAGA PREFECTURE

Izumisano

Did you know that within a mere 20 minutes from Kansai International Airport, you can visit Izumisano City, a gateway city to Japan, and that just a 40-minute drive from the airport will take you to nice hot springs and Inunaki Mountain? In the hot spring spots, you can immerse yourself in an open-air bath while enjoying picturesque views, such as cherry blossoms in spring, green leaves in summer, foliage in autumn and snow-covered trees in winter. Once you step deep into the woods of Inunaki Mountain, you will feel the sacred atmosphere. This mountain is known as a spiritual place for Shugen-do, or Japanese mountain asceticism. It has a history of more than 1,300 years as a place to practise mountain asceticism and is considered one of the oldest sacred places in Japan. There are 48 large and small waterfalls as well as the main temple, Shipporyuji temple. We look forward to your visit to Izumisano City, if you have spare time before catching your flight.

IZUMISANO OSAKA PREFECTURE

Senshu is the birthplace of towel products in Japan, the production of which began in 1887 by a man named Enjiro Satoi. When he first saw imported towels, he was so impressed by their water-absorbent capacity that he decided to manufacture them by himself. After two years of trial and error, he finally succeeded in producing very soft and highly absorbent towels, which are now called Senshu towels. These towels go through the processes of thoroughly rinsing off glue and wax and dying in the final production stage. This method is called Atozarashi, which is unique to this towel-producing region. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why you can enjoy their smooth texture even long after purchasing them. Enjoy your great experience of these well-honoured, high-quality towels.

Why not enjoy fresh fish unloaded at the local fishing port? At the Open Air Fish Market, you can buy fresh fish unloaded at Izumisano fishing port at a reasonable price, such as shako (squilla mantis shrimp), gaccho fish, swimmer crab and more. At the facility by the port, you can also grill the fish you just bought. Some restaurants offer seasonal seafood menu items, such as seafood bowls, grilled seafood, tempura and so on, delivered from the Fish Market. Enjoy the taste of super fresh seafood in Izumisano. Learn more: http://www.guide-izumisano.jp/en/

Takeo

Mifuneyama Rakuen has an area of 150,000 square metres with Mt Mifune at the back. It was built over a period of approximately three years by Shigeyoshi Nabeshima, the 28th ruler of the Takeo Domain, as part of his holiday home. You can experience Japan’s four seasons here: 2,000 cherry trees that bloom from the end of March to the beginning of April, during which a light-up event is held, 200,000 azaleas, 170-year-old wisteria that bloom between the end of April and the start of May as well as red and yellow leaves in autumn. In summer, a digital art exhibition is held by Japanese art collective teamLab and includes water surface projection mapping, which provides you with an opportunity to experience a world where nature and digital meets. teamLab has a permanent exhibition called “Future World” at ArtScience Museum in Singapore.

TsubameSanjo Tsubame City and Sanjo City, which are often geographically referred to as the middle of Japan, are located almost in the centre of Niigata Prefecture. If we study the history and traditions of manufacturing in these two towns, we will find that the manufacture of nails during the Edo Period marked a turning point. The history and traditions of such manufacturing have been preserved by our predecessors. Amid changing times, these craftsmen have continued to meet new challenges, by focusing their advanced skills and intelligence on opening up new territories, such as Tsuiki copperware and sharpedged craftsman tools.

Saga Beef is one of the highest graded Japanese Wagyu brands in the country. Each Saga Wagyu cow is carefully bred, following a long-nurtured breeding method that suits the climate of the Saga area and is characterised by safe feeds, a mild climate, pure air, delicious water and a rich natural environment that contributes to its excellent quality. The Saga Beef brand has a meat grade of 4 or 5 and has been awarded the super premium marbled meat with marbling greater than (BMS) No. 7. Saga Beef lovers come to Saga from all over the world just to savour this reputed brand of meat. Sagabiyori is one of the rice brands produced in Saga Prefecture that has won Special A, the highest rank, eight years in a row in the Rice Taste Rankings organised by the Japan Grain Inspection Association. Each and every grain is large, sweet, fragrant and delicious, even when cold. Sagabiyori produced in the Tachibana area in Takeo City is especially highly rated and is served for lunch on JR Kyushu’s Seven Stars Cruise Train journeys. Learn more: http://www.takeo-kk.net/

The technique of traditional industries such as Tsuiki copperware and forging is passed on in an unbroken line from generation to generation. Meanwhile, Tsubame has branched out into metal Western tableware and metal houseware production, and Sanjo has progressed to making work tools and items for hairdressers and beauticians. The two towns create attractive products ideal for modern living as well as articles without which no modern home would be complete. To create these products, craftsmen have to develop increasingly sophisticated processing technologies and, in this way, the TsubameSanjo area has conquered a position as one of the world’s leading technological regions. The manufacturing tradition continues to evolve. Learn more: http://www.tsjiba.or.jp/en/

Shun:

The best in season. Mikan is a citrus fruit like a mandarin orange, and is variously called citrus unshu, unshu mikan or satsuma. Rich in vitamin C, mikan is good for the skin and reduces the risk of getting colds.

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