Oishii#25 ebook by Oishii

ISSUE 25 APRIL-JUNE 2020 MCI(P)025/08/2019

BLOOMING

SUGAR RUSH Spring’s best wagashi

marvellous! Japan’s most stunning hanami spots

LEAVE IT TO US:

Singapore’s omakase chefs tell all

TAKUYA YAMASHITA marries Japanese and French flavours at Whitegrass

HAMAMATSU ESCAPE TO THE HEART OF WESTERN SHIZUOKA

Scan the QR code to catch up on back issues of OISHII magazine

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PUBLISHER Takeshi NAITO MEDIA JAPAN PTE LTD 4 Leng Kee Road #04-12 SiS Building Singapore 159088 Tel: +65-6748-1822 Email: oishii@mediajapan.sg Website: www.oishii.sg EDITORIAL PARTNER Unicorn Publishing EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Denyse Yeo

OISHII ISSUE 25

NTENTS

10 Hello, Hamamatsu 02 A week to remember Set off on an adventure in the heart Why Golden Week is the busiest time of the year in Japan.

of Shizuoka.

04 Spring has sprung Lifestyle and food events here in

20 Flower power Top five hanami spots in Japan that

06 Making a sea change The Naked Finn’s Tan Ken Loon

24 Trust the chef Omakase masters whip up the best

08 A fish to remember Whitegrass Head Chef Takuya

28 Simply irresistible The best springtime wagashi to savour.

Singapore and in Japan.

SUB-EDITOR Lela Jalil DESIGNER Gina Ang

talks about the best Japanese seafood to try.

PHOTOGRAPHERS Japan: Satomi Mitarashi Singapore: Raymond Toh Peter Lee

Yamashita marries Japanese and French influences at the rejuvenated restaurant.

PRINTED IN SINGAPORE NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd

The dish pictured on the cover was specially prepared by Chef Takuya Yamashita.

are worth your time.

menus in town.

30 The egoma has landed Try these recipes that use wild sesame oil from Japan.

32 Let it snow in spring Put the famous ice corridor on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route on your bucket list.

Printed by NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd

ADVERTISEMENT ENQUIRIES E-mail: ad@mediajapan.sg

ISSUE 25 APRIL-JUNE 2020 MCI(P)025/08/2019

BLOOMING

SUGAR RUSH Spring’s best wagashi

marvellous! Japan’s most stunning hanami spots

LEAVE IT TO US:

Singapore’s omakase chefs tell all

TAKUYA YAMASHITA marries Japanese and French flavours at Whitegrass

HAMAMATSU ESCAPE TO THE HEART OF WESTERN SHIZUOKA

Scan the QR code to catch up on back issues of OISHII magazine

is a publication under Media Japan Pte Ltd. While every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at the time of printing, Media Japan Pte Ltd cannot be held responsible for the outcome of any action or decision based on the information contained in this publication or any websites and publicity materials associated with it. The publishers and authors do not give any warranty for the completeness or accuracy for this publication’s content, explanation or opinion. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or in full without the formal written permission of the publisher. Trademarks, logos, copyright and depictions contained herein are the properties of their respective trademark and copyright owners. © Media Japan Pte Ltd. All rights reserved. MCI(P)025/08/2019 OISHII

O P E N I N G N OT E

Golden opportunities

When spring comes around, it is time for one of Japan’s busiest periods of the year.

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station yourself at one hotel and explore the area around it that’s within walking distance. The great outdoors As the days become less frigid and warmer, springtime in Japan is an absolutely beautiful season to visit. This is when the days become longer and the conditions are perfect for outdoor activities. Clear, blue skies with cool breezes are the norm, making spring days until the end of May, when the rainy season begins, a wonderful period to hike or ride a bicycle. Among the best places to hike during springtime is Mount Yoshino in Nara, in the Kansai region. It is said to offer exceptional views of more than 30,000 sakura trees — making it Japan’s most famous hiking spot when they blossom. Often just as beautiful outside of sakura season, this route is noteworthy for being a World Heritage Site that is studded with numerous temples and shrines amid lush forests. Another trail to consider is Oirase Gorge, an almost fantastical 14km mountain stream in Aomori in the Tohoku region. There are several magnificent waterfalls along the way and the emerald woods during spring are unbeatable, inspiring artists for centuries. The area also offers cycling trails, from April to November. Further down south, the Shimanami Kaido, a 70km route connecting Hiroshima and Ehime prefectures is perhaps the most scenic of Japan’s bike courses. It is a dedicated network of roads and bridges that crosses six smaller islands along the way. You’ll get breathtaking views of the Seto Inland Sea National Park and the famous Tatara Bridge. It’s also easy to rent a bike — just pop into any one of the many rental points along the way. It’s time to go outside!

TEXT DENYSE YEO PHOTOS JNTO

hink of springtime in Japan and cherry blossoms come to mind. The sakura flower after all is the country’s national bloom. But after sakura season peaks from late March to early April, that’s when one of the most important periods in the calendar begins — Golden Week. In Japan, Golden Week is held in the middle of spring, usually in late April and early May. It is actually a string of four national holidays: Showa Day on 29 April, Constitution Memorial Day on 3 May, Greenery Day on 4 May and Kodomo no Hi (Children’s Day) on 5 May. This year, Golden Week is from 2 to 6 May. If you’re travelling then, you’ll get to experience many local festivals as well as customs associated with these holidays. Once a Boys’ Day (Tango no Sekku) tradition, Kodomo no Hi now celebrates the happiness of girls and boys alike. Traditional sights include koinobori (carp-shaped windsocks) as well as kashiwa mochi (rice cakes filled with red bean paste and wrapped in oak leaves). Many employees take some time off during this period, often travelling within the country or abroad. This makes Golden Week the ultimate peak travel period in Japan. City folk tend to escape urban areas for the countryside, so transportation and accommodation will be in high demand (and often more expensive). Many companies also shut for the holidays, so this is the time when normally bustling cities become less crowded. Locals tend to use this opportunity to visit popular attractions. Although it might sound tough to plan for, vacationing in Japan during this period can also work to your favour if you would like to see what the fuss is about. Savvy tourists will visit the major cities early on during Golden Week, when locals leave, then travel outside the cities on 5 and 6 May, when Japanese people return. You might want to book your holiday reservations at least three to six months in advance, especially reserved seating on commuter trains and the shinkansen (bullet trains). The roads are also notoriously packed during this period, so a good tip is to

EVENTS

SPRING into ACTION

The very best food, culture and other lifestyle events in Singapore and Japan. Takayama Festival 14 and 15 April The historic mountain town of Takayama in Gifu Prefecture is the setting for this biannual festival, held during spring and autumn. The spring event known as Sanno Matsuri is flashier, as huge floats decorated with dolls and lanterns are pulled through the streets of the old town. It is one of Japan’s three most beautiful festivals, along with Kyoto’s Gion Matsuri and the Chichibu Yomatsuri. www.hida.jp/english/ festivalsandevents/4000105.html TOKYO

FABEX 2020 Tokyo Big Sight, 15 and 16 April (10am to 5pm), 17 April (10am to 4pm) One of the food industry’s largest trade shows, FABEX is expected to draw 78,000 visitors and 1,000 exhibitors this year. The event is a one-stop solution for food businesses, showcasing commercial foods and products, equipment and materials, and containers and packaging. It includes the Dessert Sweets & Bakery Festival. This year’s theme is sustainable and globalised food. 5,000 yen admission fee but free admission for those who pre-register. en.fabex.jp/ TOME

Tohoku Food Marathon & Festival Naganuma Futopia Park, 25 and 26 April Eat, drink and run! That’s the promise of this food and fitness event in Tome city in Miyagi. Said to be the prefecture’s largest fun run and only full marathon, the event also includes a food and sake festival featuring regional food and sake. You’ll even find snacks and drinks at the marathon’s aid stations! Register at tohokumarathon.com/en/

OSAKA

Food Sonic 2020 Various locations, 1 to 6 May Started in 2015, this event has become Kansai’s largest food festival. This year’s theme is Food Wonderland, with more than 70 stalls and about 120,000 visitors expected across three venues. There will also be live stage performances, art installations and more. 600 yen. www.foodsonic.jp/ TOKYO

Roppongi Art Night Various locations, 30 and 31 May A popular multi-disciplinary art event since 2009, this annual weekend-long extravaganza wants to take art to the streets of the famous Tokyo district. Large-scale art, design, photography, music and video installations and performances by international and Japanese artists will take over Roppongi’s museums, galleries and streets. www.roppongiartnight.com/2020/ SINGAPORE

Future Food Asia 2020 National Library, 2 and 3 June Now in its fourth edition, this two-day conference aims to separate fads from future trends and offer Asian perspectives on potential solutions for global issues. Expect to learn more about how food businesses should advance the AgriFoodTech sector in the Asia Pacific. From $590. futurefoodasia.com/ffa2020/ SINGAPORE

Singapore Cocktail Festival City Takeover Various locations, 15 to 22 May A must for cocktail fans, the popular event features two parts this year: a week-long “city takeover” at 45 participating bars across Singapore in May and a festival village at Bayfront Event Space in October. The May event promises lots of mixology action with thematic bar tours, cocktail-making workshops, guest bartenders, cocktail experiences and drink promotions. www.singaporecocktailfestival.com YOKOHAMA

CafeRes Japan Pacifico Yokohama, 1 and 2 July (10am to 6pm), 3 July (10am to 5pm) Japan’s largest exhibition for the cafe and tea industry, CafeRes Japan is really several events under one umbrella — a must-visit for F&B owners. It includes the Tokyo Cafe Show, International Tea Show, Pizza & Pasta Show and Cafe Design & Display Show, and is also co-located with the Wellness Life Japan and Rice Expo. 5,000 yen. cafeshow.jp/en Information is correct at the time of publication and subject to change. Please check the event organisers’ websites for up-to-date information.

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COMPILED BY DENYSE YEO PHOTOS JNTO, KANAZAWA CITY TOURISM ASSOCIATION, FABEX, TOHOKU FOOD MARATHON & FESTIVAL, ROPPONGI ART NIGHT

TAKAYAMA

Join our INSTAGRAM CONTEST and stand a chance to win prizes 1ST

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Ayumi Nagami: It shows Ginza without traffic well while the accent of the Japanese flag grabs your attention.

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BACKGROUND PHOTO ASH FROM MODERN AFFLATUS ON UNSPLASH

Winners will be announced in OISHII magazine vol.26, issued on 1 July 2020. All winners will be contacted via e-mail or phone on prize collection details.

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Ayumi Nagami: Good composition, plus the deer’s cuteness is outstanding.

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Contest judge Born in Hiroshima, Japan, Ayumi Nagami (Instagram: @ayuminagami and @luvrio) is a photographer based in Singapore. She focuses on sports photography, stage photography, portraits and landscape photography, and is the official photographer of Japanese football club Albirex Niigata Singapore.

Ayumi Nagami: Mount Fuji’s majesty shines through and you can feel the winter chill from looking at the photo.

t2 es nt o iic m TERMS & CONDITIONS sh 1. Please do not post any photographs that are obscene, vulgar, pornographic, hateful, threatening, racist, sexist, discriminatory, or which otherwise violate any local or international laws. 2. You must oi , 5p . # be the copyright owner of any works submitted and you also confirm you have the necessary permission from people who may appear in the photo. 3. Photos uploaded to the contest cannot be r e) 20 deleted and may remain published. 4. By entering this contest, you agree that any winning image or runner-up images you submit may be used by OISHII magazine solely for the purpose of fo e e 20 e tim t this contest or future contests and no other purpose. 5. The judges’ decision is final and they do not engage in communication with regard to entries. 6. Prizes are subject to availability and da un or OISHII has the right to substitute any prize for a comparable prize of equal value without prior notice. 7. This contest is currently open to residents of Singapore. 8. OISHII has the right to J ap g vary or amend the terms and conditions of this contest. in is 1 g For updates on the contest, please visit our Facebook page (www.facebook.com/oishii.magazine) By entering this contest, you are deemed to have understood and agreed os in l C (S with the terms set out above.

INTERVIEW

Restaurateur and seafood importer Tan Ken Loon from The Naked Finn (below) enjoys the taste of demersal fish from Japan like samegarei (right).

ustainability is a buzzword in the food business these days, but to restaurateur and seafood importer Tan Ken Loon, it is a bit of a dirty word. “Sustainability is what we believe in and not a marketing message,” says the owner of The Naked Finn, a seafood-centric restaurant, who also runs craft burger joint BurgerLabo. “That is why we never use sustainability in our publicity.” He adds: “As long as a species is threatened, we will not use it, regardless of the ‘sustainable’ label based on how the fishery is managed. It doesn’t matter if it is regulated. As long as there is demand, rogue fisheries will prevail.” Because he also runs two companies that import seafood, he has greater control over what he serves in his restaurants. “When we started The Naked Finn in 2012, we struggled to get good quality supplies. Most suppliers compete based on prices and variety is limited as the focus is on popular items. We were forced into importing... We invested in two companies to ensure we get top quality and consistent supplies for our restaurants.” Igloo Food is a partnership that started in 2013. It imports seafood from Alaska, Australia, Europe and Asia. In addition, Tan set up Goodvibes International last year, which focuses on Hokkaido and Fukuoka seafood, bringing in mainly demersal fish (bottom-dwelling fish), prawns, lobsters and crabs. It also supplies seafood to top restaurants in Singapore, such as Odette, Esora, Hashida Sushi, Meta Restaurant and Le Bon Funk. Known for his borderline obsession with seafood, Tan has experimented with more than 249 species of seafood from around the world since starting The Naked Finn. For its Crab Chawanmushi, he has tried countless crabs across 23 species,

OISHII

from different seasons, in search of one with a rich amount of albumen (egg white). This albumen coagulates into a tofu-like texture when steamed and is the basis for one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes. Among the species that are vulnerable to overfishing are Patagonian toothfish, Atlantic cod, humphead wrasse, giant grouper and Atlantic halibut. Tuna, for instance, is not found on the menu at The Naked Finn, despite being highly sought after, and Tan proclaims: “Never... unless the wild population recovers to a sustainable level.” At the moment, the most in-demand catch from Japan is uni or sea urchin. “Uni from Hokkaido is arguably the most important product now,” he says, adding that it can be found in “low-end to high-end restaurants, from Japanese to French to Italian to local”. “Fatty fish like akamutsu and nodoguro (from Fukuoka), and botan ebi (from Hokkaido) are very popular too. I guess diners’ preference is key and most cuisines are using them as they have a high perceived value.” One of the more obscure fish from Japan which he loves and promotes at The Naked Finn is the samegarei from Hokkaido. Part of the right-eye flounder family, it is a flatfish with both eyes on the right side of the body. He says: “I love samegarei. It is a great fish that is fatty and works well grilled, deep-fried or steamed, and is tolerant to overcooking too.” By introducing diners to less popular catch from the sea, Tan wishes to help ease the pressure on threatened and overfished species. “It makes sense to introduce other species to consumers. We can only do what we feel is right and hopefully some restaurants will follow.”

TEXT SUZANNE SNG PHOTOS TAN KEN LOON

An obsession with seafood

By importing his own seafood from Japan and around the world, The Naked Finn’s Tan Ken Loon is able to ensure top quality and consistent supply, as well as promote sustainability.

Sign up as an OISHII member and win restaurant vouchers worth $100! HURRY, BE A MEMBER NOW! Sign up at www.oishii.sg/member/ to win prizes.^

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ISSUE 25 APRIL-JUNE 2020 MCI(P)025/08/2019

BLOOMING

SUGAR RUSH Spring’s best wagashi

marvellous! Japan’s most stunning hanami spots

LEAVE IT TO US:

Singapore’s omakase chefs tell all

TAKUYA YAMASHITA marries Japanese and French flavours at Whitegrass

HAMAMATSU ESCAPE TO THE HEART OF WESTERN SHIZUOKA

Scan the QR code to catch up on back issues of OISHII magazine

OISHII is a magazine dedicated to the many culinary, gourmet and lifestyle wonders of Japan, from Singapore to the world.

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CELEBRITY CHEF

A fish called

Crispy amadai fish with eggplant and sea urchin

Whitegrass Head Chef Takuya Yamashita pays tribute to the ocean with this crispy, mouth-watering dish.

“I

’m from Nara Prefecture and I have a profound reverence for nature and an unwavering respect for produce. I like using French culinary techniques to bring out the original flavours and characteristics of each ingredient, and I have a deep knowledge about Japanese ingredients, fish and produce. Apart from making sure that my diners are satisfied with the good food and impeccable service from our team, I believe the most important thing is to share moments with them to make it extra

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memorable. I will always come out from the kitchen to meet my guests and tell them more about my nature-inspired cuisine and the food stories that go with this. I source many of the ingredients used at Whitegrass from the farmers and fishermen in my hometown of Nara. I enjoy educating diners on how vegetables are grown with special care, how the different seasons and climates affect food sources, and so on. I work with sous chef Nawata Kohei whose background in Chinese cuisine adds

interesting input to our incredible seasonal menu. We decided to use amadai, a type of tilefish, in our featured dish, and we wanted to present it at its best. We had to ensure its taste and texture go well with the other condiments so that we can retain its purest original flavour. Amadai is unique because its scales can be eaten. Choosing the right size of fish is important because we have to pour hot oil over the fish repeatedly until the scales are fried perfectly and turn crispy. If the fish is too small, it is overcooked easily. My strength lies in how I have a deep understanding of fish. I also have good connections. Every day, I call my supplier directly at a wet market in Fukuoka to order the right size of fish. They always send over the best fish to us at Whitegrass!

TEXT DENYSE YEO MAIN PHOTO AND PHOTO OF TAKUYA YAMASHITA RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION OTHER PHOTOS WHITEGRASS, 123RF, JNTO

AMADAI

TA K U YA YA M A S H I TA

Head Chef Takuya Yamashita (below left) and sous chef Nawata Kohei (below right) lead the charge at Whitegrass in Chijmes

3 1

Takuya’s best of Japan

Yubeshi

“Fish and meat aren’t readily available in Nara’s mountains during winter, so we find other food sources. Yubeshi is a type of traditional wagashi (Japanese confectionery) made from yuzu, rice, miso, sake and walnuts, and covered with hay and fermented for months. It has a fresh citrus flavour and a unique taste. I use yubeshi in one of our restaurant’s duck dishes to give the classic French dish, duck à l’Orange, a new taste with Japanese ingredients.”

First, we carefully fry the fish until its scales are crispy. We have to do this without overcooking the flesh. Then we use an eggplant base so you enjoy both the crispy and smooth textures in one dish. To enhance the flavours further, sea urchin (uni) sauce is used as it has a natural sweetness. The overall charming combination of amadai and sea urchin results in a palate-pleasing dish, presented from the sea to your plate.”

Whitegrass is at #01-26 Chijmes, 30 Victoria Street. Tel: 6837-0402

FROM NATURE TO TABLE Head Chef Takuya Yamashita moved to Singapore last May after taking over from celebrated Australian chef Sam Aisbett at Whitegrass. He started his career at 21 in Aux Provençaux Tokyo, where he worked for six years. There, he would even hone his pastry-making skills at a patisserie on his days off. In 2015, he moved to France and joined the Michelin-starred restaurants Les Enfants Rouges and Étude in Paris. After two years, he returned to Tokyo and was mentored by Chef Kazunori Otawa at the one-Michelin-starred Ciel et Sol, where he eventually became its head chef. “This allowed me to elevate my creations through the clever use of textural components,” he says. Of his stint in Singapore so far, the 33-year-old says: “It was challenging at first and I got frustrated sometimes. Fortunately, I have a motivated and passionate team to support me.” He works closely with sous chef Nawata Kohei, 31, whom he has known since they were culinary school classmates more than 12 years ago. While Yamashita marries classic French cooking techniques with a deep knowledge about Japanese ingredients and produce, Kohei’s background is in Chinese cuisine. Kohei worked as a former dim sum chef at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo and is an expert hand at creating delicately detailed dim sum. He joined Whitegrass last July. Together, they create the restaurant’s seasonal menu, which changes every two months. Says Yamashita: “Our vision is to provide good food that will make our diners happy and satisfied rather than food that is only good for photos.”

Amadai

“When fried, the scales on this unique tilefish pop up and have a crispy texture. It is delicious!”

Yamato cha

“This special green tea is grown only in one place – Nara (above). I’ve known one of the farms, Tea Farm Inokura, for a long time. It is a family farm that’s been around for 11 generations or about 260 years. The farmers hand-pick the leaves, and the tea is clear and sweet because of the morning mist from the surrounding mountains. I use this tea in the restaurant and at home too.” OISHII

HAMAMATSU & LAKE HAMANA Halfway between Osaka and Tokyo, this city in Shizuoka Prefecture makes a great launchpad for food adventures, fun things to do and much more. TEXT DENYSE YEO PHOTOS SATOMI MITARASHI

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unset. We are spearfishing in the middle of Lake Hamana, one of Japan’s largest lagoons. Around us, the calm, shallow waters of the lagoon gently lap against our boat as the evening light shimmers. Before us sits the towering red torii gate; just behind, the shinkansen rumbles across where the lake meets the ocean. It is an absolutely beautiful evening on the lake, but just another day in Hamamatsu city in Shizuoka Prefecture, central Honshu. While the lake is the life source of the region, providing plentiful seafood, the city is its heartbeat. Its main attractions are Hamamatsu Castle Park, which was built by the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, who lived in Hamamatsu for 17 years (1571 to 1588) and whose rule marked the start of the Edo period.

Home to 800,000 people, Hamamatsu city is a great spot for festivals and food. It is known for a number of foodie adventures from spearfishing at night to catching your own eel for a grilled unagi lunch and harvesting your own Shizuoka muskmelons. Thanks to a mild climate and long periods of sunshine, especially during spring and summer, Hamamatsu has an abundant supply of fresh, nutrient-rich fare, so much so it has its own category of superfoods known as power foods. Culture buffs aren’t left out in the cold either as Hamamatsu is also known as the City of Music. Take your pick between looking at giant calligraphy artwork and toying with musical technology, made by the world’s best-known musical instrument maker. Whatever you choose, you’re in for a surprising visit in this little city with big energy.

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Off the

eaten path

You’ll find lots of food adventures to embark on when you’re in Hamamatsu. Spearfish your dinner In Lake Hamana, we are on the hunt — for dinner. We’re spearfishing, a traditional method practised here for over a hundred years. Offered by Takiya Fishery from May to September, the experience is thrilling. After a quick demo from our fisherman guide, each of us throws a 5m-long steel spear like a javelin to catch what we’d like to eat. From prawns to octopus, mud crab to sayori (halfbeak fish), the seafood is abundant in these clear, shallow waters illuminated by the boat’s spotlights. Then it’s off to an open-air floating platform where the catch is cleaned, battered and fried or steamed. Kick back, feast and wash it all down with chilled chuhai, and this will remain a delicious memory to savour. 9985-3 Ubumi, Yuto-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-592-2260 (Japanese only)

The freshest catch — crab, fish, prawns and more — in Hamamatsu

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PEOPLE OF HAMAMATSU

Hand-catch slippery eels For your next grilled unagi don, maybe try getting hands on. And by that, we mean catching your own eel. It’s what you can do at Kaikokan, along the bank of Lake Hamana, that offers an eel catching and eating experience during summertime. Eels are released into a shallow pond and you will need to catch them with your bare hands. Once successful, the fishermen will help you to fillet, debone, skewer and grill them, before glazing sweet sauce — three times — over each piece. The result is crisp yet juicy unagi that’s super fresh. More adventurous eaters will enjoy skewered eel offal such as kidney and heart. 3268 Yoshimi, Kosai city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-594-6624

TOSHIHIRO MIYAMOTO Owner, Kashima Harvest

This third-generation farmer has set out to improve his farm and draw more visitors. Why did you continue with the family farm?

When life gives you melons Shizuoka muskmelons are some of the world’s juiciest, sweetest varieties of melons. At Kashima Harvest, you’ll get to taste some and take one whole melon back with you. The farm offers melon picking from July to August. Each Shizuoka muskmelon plant bears one fruit at a time (unlike Hokkaido varieties that bear four at a time) and it takes about 50 days to harvest a melon here. Tip: Pick one with a fresh-looking T-shaped stem. After all that hard work, perk up by savouring half a chilled muskmelon — bliss on a hot summer’s day. You can also opt to have prosciutto with the green-fleshed fruit, prepared in advance. The farm also offers strawberry picking from November to May. 3624 Kurematsu-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-0875

I’ve helped at the farm since I was a teenager. I studied farming at the Tokyo University of Agriculture in Kanagawa and when I finished, I decided not to return for a while to try something else. I went to Hokkaido to work in a melon shop in summer and at a ski resort in winter. When I returned home the following year, I promised my father I would try farming for a year. It’s been 16 years now! (laughs)

How have you modernised the farm? I visited many matsuri (festivals) and met many younger farmers. I saw how they connected with people and the local area, and I liked it. That changed my perception of farmers as being old people only. Besides melon and strawberry picking, I want to make the farm more enjoyable in the future and attract more people. For instance, perhaps I could add more lifestyle features like hammocks that would look great on Instagram. The most important thing is to welcome visitors. I enjoy meeting new people.

Why is Hamamatsu so special? I was born and raised here, and so are my three kids. I can’t express how happy I am to see young children eat what we’ve planted here. I want to continue farming here and create a tourism concept for more people to enjoy Hamamatsu city. OISHII

PEOPLE OF HAMAMATSU

Fry your own gyoza At Hamataro Gyoza Center, you can put your dumplingmaking skills to the test. After all, Hamamatsu is Japan’s gyoza capital, so there’s no better place to try! After sealing the filling of minced pork, onion and cabbage in a dough wrapper, the gyoza are arranged neatly in a circle in the pan, Hamamatsu-style. A final flourish: garnish with boiled bean sprouts. If you’re trying this at home, use a lot of oil, sprinkle flour over the dumplings in the pan and fry over a high fire. When the gyoza turn dark brown, pour a little lukewarm water over and cover with a lid for three minutes to steam them before serving. Magic! The restaurant also has an eye-opening gyoza making and frying robotic machine that churns out row after row of gyoza for dine-in customers.

MASAHIRO MURAMATSU Owner, Muramatsu Shoten

The knowledgeable thirdgeneration owner honed his knowledge of green tea by working for four years with a Kyoto tea specialist.

260-1 Mikatahara-cho, Kita-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-436-2041

What sets your shop apart from others?

Bottle some shoyu You can bottle your own shoyu (soya sauce) at Meijiya Shoyu. Its family recipe for shoyu dates back seven generations and does not have artificial ingredients. Everything is done by hand here, such as preparing and fermenting moromi, a mixture of soya beans, wheat, salt and koji (malt). Moromi is squeezed through a cloth and wooden press, and the liquid is pasteurised and bottled. With your name written on it, this 150ml bottle makes a great souvenir when you next have sashimi at home. It will keep for about a month. 2276 Komatsu, Hamakita-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-586-2053

Play “cha kabuki” Cha kabuki is a traditional Kyoto game that’s played as you blind-taste varieties of tea. One place to play the game outside Kyoto is here in Hamamatsu in the heart of Shizuoka, which is famed for green tea production. Part shop, part plantation and part factory, Muramatsu Shoten is a fun place to learn all about Japanese tea culture. During cha kabuki, you have to guess the kinds of green tea that is poured in front of you. A clue for those who are game: The steaming process to make Hamamatsu green tea makes it bitter, a taste many Japanese enjoy. 2365 Nishiyama-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53- 485-8526

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In Kyoto, tea farmers and tea shops are completely separate. But with our little plantation, we have a great way for people to learn more about green tea.

Your shop offers a blind tea-tasting game called “cha kabuki”. Tell us more about it. I learnt this game when I was working in Kyoto. Started for the upper classes during Japan’s Kamakura period (1185 to 1333), cha kabuki tests your knowledge of different types of tea. It’s a relaxing way to bond too.

How do you attract younger customers? We offer green tea latte using sencha (Japanese whole leaf green tea) and soya milk with less sugar. Our packaging comes in modern designs. We offer teabags too, which the younger generation prefers to the traditional method of steeping tea leaves. And we would like to expand overseas by selling our products online on websites like Lazada. It might be difficult to do alone, but I’d like to find a business partner.

Where does your future lie? Hopefully, more tourists will visit us. I’d also like to get my community together more. Many grandparents live in this area and they tend to stay at home. But we can provide a space for them to meet, talk and relax with one another. This role is important, and it’s why I want to keep the plantation and shop going.

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Sights, sounds for the soul

Getting cultured in the city of music.

A brush with emotion

With its elegant rock and waterfall gardens, Ryoun-ji is a beautiful place of worship. This tranquil temple is also home to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest calligraphy of the Heart Sutra, a Buddhist scripture that is revered by devotees. The gigantic 4m by 16m artwork is incredibly moving in person. It was painted by one of the most acclaimed calligraphers in Japan, Shoko Kanazawa, who has Downâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s syndrome. Some of her other works are also displayed here, including one of the classic ichi enso (a circle representing enlightenment in Zen teaching), painted in a single stroke. 4702-14 Irino-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-447-1231 OISHII

Live and let dye Tucked away in a quiet residential neighbourhood in Hamamatsu sits this unassuming dyeing factory. Nihashi Dyeing Factory specialises in Enshu cotton, an indigenous textile of the region that uses a centuryold technique of dye craft. Experiment with this slice of traditional Japanese heritage at a hands-on dyeing workshop, making multi-coloured motifs of the city on a cotton scarf. Then head behind the scenes to observe the artisans going about their craft as they carefully hang their freshly dyed fabrics from the ceiling to dry. 138-14 Tokiwa-cho, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-452-2686

Vintage sounds Take the Kanzanji Ropeway (right) up from Lake Hamana and you’ll arrive at the Hamanako Orgel Museum. Built in 1999, this quaint, three-storey museum is home to more than 70 orgel, or wind-up music boxes. All in mint condition, these have been sourced from all over Europe, with some dating back to the mid-19th century. Each works perfectly, even the hand-cranked ones as well as the centrepiece 6m-tall fairground orgel illuminated by bright lights. 1981 Kanzanji-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-2121

In perfect harmony If you’ve played on a Yamaha keyboard, chances are it was made here. Hamamatsu is home to Yamaha Corporation’s headquarters, where you can visit the Yamaha Innovation Road museum. This is a treat for music fans to learn about the music instrument maker’s 130-plus years of history, from its first reed organ to the latest in audio technology, and see multisensorial exhibits. One even lets you “play” in a virtual band on stage. Reservations are a must. 10-1 Nakazawa-cho, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-460-2010

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Treat yourself Wondering where to have lunch, tea or dinner in Hamamatsu? We’ve got you sorted. They’ve got the power You’ve heard of superfoods, packed with nutrition and great for your health. Hamamatsu has its own category called power foods, all from the rich natural environments of Hamamatsu and Lake Hamana — eel (unagi), soft-shell turtle (suppon), wild pufferfish (fugu), green mud crab (douman), Mineno beef, blackthroat seaperch (nodoguro) and more. One place to try these local specialities is Restaurant Doman at the Hotel CONCORDE Hamamatsu. At this kaiseki restaurant, Head Chef Koji Ono transforms these bountiful ingredients into a multi-course meal of serious delicacies. Think seasonal dishes, perfectly turned out, like grilled unagi, young green onion shoots (menegi) sushi and crab somen.

(Above) Unagi chazuki, with dashi broth poured over the grilled eel and rice

109-18 Motoshiro-cho, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-0990

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PEOPLE OF HAMAMATSU

Bruschetta, seasonal vegetables and bean dip (below); zucchini and crab pasta (right)

KOJI ONO

Head Chef, Restaurant Doman

Farm-to-table fare After taking over his grandparents’ farm, Shuta Furuhashi wanted to showcase pesticide-free vegetables and seasonal herbs from the area. The result is Shushu, a little Italian eatery that’s popular with city folk from Hamamatsu. Run by Shuta and his wife, Shushu offers wonderful renditions of European fare, such as bruschetta and gnocchi, using local ingredients. A standout is Pizza Shirasu (right), with its superthin, Roman-style crust topped with the namesake tiny fish, garlic, onion as well as parmesan and parmigiana cheese. Salty and savoury, this is a crispy flavour bomb. 3065-6 Kohitomicho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-522-7786

Steep in the right direction Within the hushed grounds of Hamamatsu Castle Park is the teahouse, Shouintei. While it may be small, its charm lies in its casual Japanese tea ceremony experience that is welcoming to everyone. There’s none of the stiff formality one often finds elsewhere and the friendly women who wait on you are more than happy to chat as they serve matcha or sencha (whole leaf green tea) with Japanese wagashi (traditional sweets). Have a sip, relax and enjoy the view of its small but perfectly manicured garden that changes hues with each season. 11-4 Shikatani-cho, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-473-4310

Born and raised in Hamamatsu, this friendly chef is a board member of the Hamamatsu Power Food Association, which was started in April 2019 by local farmers and producers. Why are Hamamatsu power foods so special? It all started with the legendary shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543 to 1616), who unified Japan and lived in Hamamatsu for 17 years. He was known to eat the food of the area, so when he was promoted, people began to think that Hamamatsu was a source of healthy food. We are known throughout Japan for our warmer climate and long life, as well as our food. It’s also important that the food from this area is cooked with the local water — so our cooking has harmony and balance. Hamamatsu power foods are very nutritious.

In what ways do you cook Hamamatsu power foods at the restaurant? I use simple techniques to showcase the flavours. I do not want to kill the taste of the vegetables, meat or seafood, which have a natural sweetness and umami. My favourite power food dish is nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch), simply grilled with salt.

What is your ultimate goal for Hamamatsu power foods? I hope there is no end. We think of Japanese kaiseki as coming from Kyoto. But I want our customers to recognise that Hamamatsu can also do kaiseki style well using power foods.

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Souvenir shopping

What to take home from Hamamatsu. Music to our ears You can’t leave Hamamatsu without a music box. And you can find a treasure trove at the gift shop at the Hamanako Orgel Museum. Our favourites are the adorable versions, such as sumo wrestlers in a ring, and the music boxes hidden in a tiny sneaker. 1981 Kanzanji-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-487-2121

Time for tea

A shoyu thing If you want a food souvenir, pick up Takamine sauce made by Meijiya Shoyu. To make the sauce, apples from Minami Shinshu Ina are simmered with Japanese carrots and tomatoes for two days. The result is a mellow condiment that’s well balanced and sweet. Available in spicy and umami Worcestershire, refreshing Nakano, and thick, sweet and rich tonkatsu sauces.

Green tea accessories can sometimes be quite staid. But purpose-built cannisters made from washi paper are handy for storing loose leaf tea like sencha. You’ll find modern designs at Muramatsu Shoten, along with cute tin cannisters and ceramic teacups and teapots. 2365 Nishiyama-cho, Nishi-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53- 485-8526

2276 Komatsu, Hamakita-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka. Tel: +81-53-586-2053

All about HAMAMATSU & LAKE HAMANA

Here’s what you need to know about this city in Shizuoka

BY TRAIN Tokaido Shinkansen Line From Osaka 83 minutes by Hikari, 116 minutes by Kodama From Nagoya 29 minutes by Hikari, 46 minutes by Kodama From Shizuoka 27 minutes by Kodama From Tokyo 89 minutes by Hikari, 120 minutes by Kodama

BY CAR Nagoya

Meishin and Tomei Expressway From Osaka: 282km From Tokyo: 230km

Tokyo

Osaka

SHIZUOKA PREFECTURE

Special thanks to: Hamamatsu & Lake Hamana Tourism Bureau Mr Shinobu Meda, Mr Kenji Tamakoshi, Ms Sakurako Homme, Ms Minako Kouno, Mr Ayato Iwataya

Hamamatsu HAMAMATSU

Kosai Lake Hamana

SHIZUOKA PREFECTURE

5th Fl. Zazacity Hamamatsu Central 100-1 Kaji-machi, Naka-ku, Hamamatsu city, Shizuoka / +81-53-458-0011

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H A N A M I S P OT S

BLOOMING

HITLIST

GOOD TIMES

As winter turns to spring, cherry trees start to blossom, but Japan has much more to offer than sakura.

Cherry blossoms

Odawara Castle in Odawara, Kanagawa March to April

Moss phlox

Fuji Shibazakura Festival in Fujikawaguchiko, Yamanashi April to May

If you can’t make it for the sakura season, don’t fret. After the cherry blossoms have

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faded, it is then the turn of the gorgeous shibazakura. Also known as moss phlox or pink moss, shibazakura grows not on trees but as a lush carpet on the ground. These flowers bloom only for a few short weeks and are a rare sight. At this unique flower festival covering 2.4 hectares, Mount Fuji towers over the fields blanketed in vibrant pink and purple blooms. A cute fuzzy miniature Fuji-san — carefully shaped and bedecked with flowers — provides the perfect photo op. After strolling on this pink carpet produced by Mother Nature, tuck into local specialities at the Mount Fuji Delicious Food Festival at the same venue, including chicken giblet stew and horsemeat udon.

TEXT SUZANNE SNG PHOTOS JNTO, 123RF

Hanami literally means “flower viewing” in Japanese, but it almost always refers to cherry blossoms. Take a day trip out from Tokyo to Odawara, about 90 minutes by shinkansen, and have the majestic Odawara Castle as the backdrop to your Insta sakura posts. This is considered one of the top sakura spots in the country, and rightly so. Even though the castle only dates back to 1960 (the original 15th-century structure was destroyed in the Great Kanto earthquake in 1923, then later rebuilt), the 300 cherry trees around it have survived for almost a century, making it through World War II. At dusk, the park is transformed with hundreds of paper lanterns, allowing you to see the pink blooms in a whole different light.

H A N A M I S P OT S

Tulips

Tulip Fields in Hiezu, Tottori April to May

The fourth smallest village in Japan, Hiezu may have an area of only 4.2 square kilometres, but come spring, it is transformed into a hanami wonderland as tulips burst forth in all colours of the rainbow. As the land is low, damp and sandy, it is perfect for the growing of the tulip bulbs. With the snow-capped Mount Daisen in the background, the tulips line up in orderly rows for the most postcard-worthy photos. Besides just walking and taking pictures, you can also run through the fields during the annual Hiezu Tulip Marathon, to be held on 12 April this year. With distances of 1, 3, 5 or 10 kilometres to choose from, this race among the bobbing heads of tulips will be one to remember.

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Wisteria

Kawachi Wisteria Garden in Kitakyushu, Fukuoka April to May

At this garden famous for its elegant wisteria, tunnel vision is an amazing sensory experience. As you amble down its two 100-metre-long tunnels, you walk under a thick curtain of 22 different species of the cascading flowers. In this fairy-tale-like setting, you will not only take in the blooms in shades of white, blue, violet, pink and deep purple, but also their sweet, intoxicating scent. In another section of the exquisitely laid-out garden, large wisteria trees form a giant canopy of drooping flowers that is poetic in its beauty. A viewing point at the top of the park lets you take in bonus scenes of the lush bamboo groves in the surrounding valley. If you miss the peak wisteria season, you can also visit in autumn when the maple leaves turn golden, as the garden boasts a marvellous display of fall foliage.

Hydrangeas

Gesshoji Temple in Matsue, Shimane June to July

The rainy season in the middle of the year is also prime time for hydrangeas, also known as ajisai in Japanese. These perfectly round puff balls of colours — white, pink, violet or blue, depending on the soil’s acidity — burst into bloom on the grounds of the tranquil Gesshoji Temple. It is sometimes referred to as Hydrangea Temple, and with good reason, as it boasts more than 30,000 hydrangeas. The vast grounds with winding paths are dotted with stone lanterns and torii gates, as well as an unmissable giant tortoise statue, which purportedly will grant you longevity if you give its head a rub. The best spot to stop and soak in the views is the tea house. Sip on matcha (green tea), nibble on wagashi (traditional Japanese confectionery) and enjoy a moment of pure Zen.

HOSPITALITY TECHNOLOGY

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11/3/20 9:36 AM

MASTERS

Trust me,

I’m the chef

And with good reason, as these Japanese omakase experts show.

Taiga Kanekuni, Head Chef of Sushi Ayumu

Taro Takayama, Executive Chef of Takayama

ike many seasoned foodies in Singapore, you’ll have noticed a plethora of Japanese omakase restaurants springing up in recent years. This particular style of Japanese dining, literally meaning “I leave it up to you”, is especially popular with notoriously picky Singaporean diners, who are able to just relax and cede control of the menu to the sushi chef. But while the trend here has grown over the years, omakase dining in Japan has been around for generations. In Singapore, there are a host of options at all price points, ranging from affordable eateries to fancy restaurants. What they all have in common is that they offer a series of small, elaborate

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Yutaro Tsuchiya Chef, NAMI Restaurant & Bar

courses chosen by the chef, usually sashimi and sushi, using their own culinary philosophy, a selection of seasonal ingredients — known as “shun” — plus a lavish helping of omotenashi or Japanese hospitality. These three restaurants are doing omakase right and making a name for themselves in the competitive world of Japanese cuisine in Singapore. They all have recast the omakase dining experience in their own little ways. Take your pick between Edo-style sushi from Tokyo, elegant Japanese with a modern twist and Japanese fine dining. So what makes an omakase restaurant, you might ask these master chefs? Read on to find out.

OMAKASE EXPERTS

like its signature dish Foie Gras Monaka, which reflects the chef’s philosophy of using seasonal produce and preserving the integrity of their flavours. Says Takayama: “At Takayama, we tailor our menu in a way that every meal is a new discovery of the Japanese cuisine.”

How does the restaurant cater to

Tell us why your omakase menu is

I think Japanese cuisine has evolved over the years in Singapore. The entire concept of Japanese omakase is very interesting to locals because of how it is a chef’s choice menu, so diners do not know what to expect. They need to trust that we will present to them a fresh new experience of flavours and taste.

so special.

Taro Takayama

Executive Chef, Takayama

TEXT DENYSE YEO PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION

he short answer to what makes omakase cuisine is straightforward. “It is quite simply, to trust your chef,” says chef Taro Takayama. But ask him to elaborate and he is happy to explain. “(Omakase cuisine) is not just about the food, though it does play a very big part. It is about the overall feel that you have when you dine — like the umami of experience.” Born in Wakayama, near Osaka, Takayama began his career at threeMichelin-starred restaurants Kashiwaya and Koryu, in Osaka, before he was appointed Master Chef at the residence of the Japanese Ambassador to Singapore in 2012. There, he served meals to celebrities and dignitaries, including Japan’s Crown Prince Naruhito, now the Emperor of Japan, and Prime Minister Shinzo Abe. Takayama soon developed a deep appreciation for Singapore’s cultural diversity and local cuisine, so he moved here, becoming part of Mandarin Orchard Singapore’s roster of celebrated chefs. In 2018, he became the executive chef of his eponymous restaurant, tucked away on the ground floor of OUE Downtown Gallery. Quietly elegant, the 32-seat restaurant offers kappo dining, where the multi-course meal is left entirely up to the chef, with a generous dash of omotenashi, or wholehearted Japanese hospitality. The influence here stems from Osaka, known as “the kitchen of Japan” during the Edo period and remains a favoured culinary destination by many. Inspired by Japan’s four seasons, the restaurant’s menu celebrates ingredients at the peak of their flavours (shun). Just

A major part of it has got to do with me growing up in Japan as well as influences in my career, and to see how customers react to the dishes we serve. It makes me very happy to see their expressions of content, satisfaction and joy. They are better than words.

local tastes?

My customers give me a lot of inspiration and insights on the local palate. Sometimes, we converse too much and I forget to cook! What is so special about Japanese omakase in Singapore?

What is your wish for Takayama

How did you come up with the items

restaurant?

on the menu?

We would just like to continue pleasing our customers and ensure they have a nice time. We have been very fortunate to always have very good support, and reservations have been steady. We want to continue delivering on what we had intended to do when we first opened — give our guests a positive kappo dining experience with us.

I focus on bringing out the flavours of ingredients which represent the respective seasons and then adding a little playfulness to it. My ingredients are mainly from Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka markets, and are not limited to fish markets. I also get supplies from farms and fishermen directly.

“(Omakase cuisine) is like the umami of experience.” Kagoshima Wagyu with Tottori Black Shallot and Sprouts

Foie Gras Monaka with Tottori Shishi-Yuzu Compote Takayama is at #01-09/10 Downtown Gallery, 6A Shenton Way. Tel: 6224-0864

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OMAKASE EXPERTS

Soup curry at Suage Singapore is a medley of fresh vegetables and meat like grilled pork

“Customers enjoy Edo-style sushi and omotenashi without having to go to Japan.”

How do you ensure a good Japanese

served in many other local sushi-ya (sushi restaurants). Our hon-maguro is rich in umami and flavour, with an even spread of oiliness.

omakase meal?

What do you wish more people knew

We endeavour to curate the perfect sushi with our signature sushi rice (shari). It is seasoned with our secret recipe to enhance the umami and flavour of each catch. By sharing our passion and love for Japanese hospitality, our customers and even tourists get to enjoy Edo-style sushi and omotenashi without having to go to Japan. All furniture, tableware and even traditional toothpicks are specially brought in from Japan.

about Japanese omakase?

as traditional sushi restaurants in Japan, in other words (Edo-style) sushi.”

Taiga Kanekuni

Head Chef, Sushi Ayumu

orn in Kochi Prefecture on the island of Shikoku, Taiga Kanekuni has over 20 years’ experience working as a sushi chef in Japan before he decided to venture to Singapore. Now the head chef at Sushi Ayumu in Mandarin Gallery, he is busy setting a new direction for the restaurant after its rebranding in July 2018. In Japanese, “ayumu” means “walking towards a new beginning and a new vision”. Explaining the meaning of omakase, Kanekuni says: “Omakase is like (a customer) saying ‘I trust you’ or ‘I leave it to you’ to the chefs and getting the very best (in return). A full omakase meal is typically reflective of the season’s best produce and the kitchen’s signature cooking style.” The 36-seat Sushi Ayumu focuses on Tokyo-style Edomae or Edo-style sushi. This traditional type of sushi was created during the Bunsei era in the early 19th century in the old city of Edo, which is now Tokyo. But one step inside the modern, sleek-walled restaurant in Mandarin Gallery and you’ll know this is not an old-style Japanese restaurant. The restaurant uses fresh produce, seasonal items and delicacies sourced every day from Japanese fishermen and suppliers, mainly from Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market and fish markets in Kyushu. These ingredients offer diners a taste of Japan’s four seasons. Says Kanekuni: “We serve sushi the same way

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Tell us about your most popular dish.

We serve the best Pacific Wild Bluefin Tuna (hon-maguro). This is different from normal wild tuna caught from elsewhere. Naturally, this is not the farmed tuna

I would like to introduce more diners to pair wine or sake with sushi. I grew up in a culture of drinking alcohol. You can basically pair any food with the right alcohol. It is natural that sushi is delicious with it, and I would like my diners to elevate their meal with the right beverage. What is your wish for the restaurant?

I look forward to raising the profile of Sushi Ayumu. To be the best sushi restaurant in the hearts and minds of guests and our people. We aim to go beyond boundaries by being known worldwide as a top sushi dining destination with Japanese service and hospitality.

Sushi Ayumu is at #04-16 Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road. Tel: 6733-2114

Yokohama native raised a mere 10-minute walk from the sea, Yutaro Tsuchiya has felt a deep connection to it. As a young man, he and his friends would surf, go spearfishing or collect fresh oysters and sea urchins. He also enjoyed eating fresh produce from his grandmother’s vegetable and fruit farm located in the surrounding mountains. Growing up in such an environment, it’s no wonder that Tsuchiya found his calling as a chef. Cutting his teeth at his uncle’s restaurant at 16, Tsuchiya has worked in restaurants and eateries for almost 25 years in Japan and the US. He helped to teach Japanese cuisine and chefs as a regional chef for renowned Japanese-American restaurant Benihana.

“Eating seasonally is about deepening awareness of the here and now.” He also helped to open sushi restaurant Doraku in the US and overseas, including Miami and Vietnam. Before arriving in Singapore to head NAMI, just in January this year, he had been co-owner and head chef of Sushi Sake in Dallas. He says of his new home at NAMI, a 92-seat fine Japanese cuisine restaurant that opened in May 2017: “Working here allows me to explore global flavours. The cuisine I bring to the table is innovative yet stays true to my Japanese roots.”

item that will soon go on the menu is Fish and Dip, which is my personal take on guacamole with jalapenos, ponzu, tobiko (flying fish roe), green onions instead of garlic, lime juice and onion. I use sashimi-grade flounder but fry it instead, in consideration of diners’ preferences. How do you come up with different menu items?

I get ideas from my daily life and travel. I visit different restaurants, not just Japanese ones, to try and find inspiration. What makes a good Japanese

Tell us more about your omakase menu

omakase meal?

and why it is so special.

High-quality ingredients, a chef’s skill and attention to details. Most importantly, it is about achieving the optimal balance of flavours among the multiple courses.

Our seasonal omakase menu celebrates the changing seasons in Japan with the freshest seasonal produce at the peak of its flavours. To celebrate spring, we’ve introduced Sakura Omakase, which highlights seasonal ingredients such as cherry blossom, sawara fish (Spanish mackerel) and soramame (broad beans). Where are your ingredients from?

Most of our ingredients come from Japan, freshly delivered four times a week. How would you describe NAMI's food?

Yutaro Tsuchiya

Chef, NAMI Restaurant & Bar

It’s traditional but we constantly seek new ways to refine and innovate. We stay true to traditional Japanese cuisine, but elevate it with influences from my exploration of different cultures. One

What do you wish more diners knew about Japanese omakase?

Eating seasonally is important for omakase, especially in Japan, when ingredients are at their freshest and tastiest. But it is also about deepening awareness of the here and now, and building a deep texture of life that goes hand in hand with the cycles of nature. For the Japanese, that’s common sense rooted in culture and history. I wish to cultivate this among Singapore diners, so they have fun with seasonal ingredients — and have some sake too!

NAMI Restaurant & Bar is at Level 24 Tower Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, Singapore, 22 Orange Grove Road. Tel: 6213-4398 OISHII

F L AV O U R S

WAGASHI

These Japanese confections take on many forms and colours but the prettiest versions – done up in eyepleasing pinks and greens – pop up during spring.

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f there is one symbol of seasonal food, Japan’s wagashi must be it. Wagashi is the collective term for the delicate Japanese confections that come in a myriad of shapes, colours, forms and flavours. These are sold in the food halls of department stores or in speciality cafés and are packed in exquisite boxes for gifting purposes. There isn’t one standard definition of wagashi, according to the Tokyo Wagashi Association. The term generally refers to rice mochi snacks that are steamed or baked and are eaten sweet or savoury. But there are actually about seven categories of wagashi, from nerimono (made by shaping red bean paste) to the more common mochimono (made with rice mochi). Some are served plain while most wagashi have a red bean paste or fruit filling. The type of wagashi you buy and eat depends on the season or festive occasion. For instance, hishimochi is a ceremonial treat eaten in March on Doll’s Day or Girls’ Day, a traditional Japanese holiday that celebrates the life of young girls. Its diamond shape is said to represent fertility and the three pink,

white and green layers depict youth and good health. Different types of wagashi are also made and sold during each season of the year. In spring, they come in colours like pink and green that symbolise freshness and abundance. The more intricate versions are even shaped to resemble pine trees, apricots and cherry blossoms — all highly associated with the season. This is in sharp contrast to the wagashi you see in autumn that tend to take on earthy tones inspired by the season’s foliage and that use chestnuts and persimmons for a more filling snack in the cooler weather. In summer, jelly bases are used in yokan wagashi to give the idea of a cooling treat and in winter, wagashi makers create white confections that bring to mind falling snow. While you might be tempted to wolf down a few pieces of wagashi at a go, don’t. It is recommended that you savour one at a time, with a cup of fragrant green tea and by a window from which to view the beauty of the season that’s inspired the artisanal confection in your hand.

TEXT PEARLYN THAM PHOTOS JNTO, 123RF

for every season

F L AV O U R S

KUSA MOCHI Also known as grass mochi or yomogi mochi, its deep green shade is symbolic of new life, growth and a fresh, verdant spring season. Kusa mochi is made with pounded rice flour, bean paste, sugar and boiled Japanese mugwort leaves, which grow freely in many places in Japan and are used as a medicinal plant throughout Asia. It can take on many shapes like that of a flower, taco or diamond.

SAKURA MOCHI One of the most definitive types of wagashi for spring is sakura mochi. You can find it in speciality shops or supermarkets from March to early April. Like its name suggests, this type of wagashi is often made to look like sakura, which blossom during the season. Sometimes, it is made from a pink mochi to resemble the Instagram-friendly flowers. Several versions are wrapped with a salted cherry tree leaf. Most people do not consume the leaf — only those who like the sharp burst of saltiness on their palate.

KASHIWA MOCHI This type of wagashi is easily recognised by the distinct kashiwa or oak leaf cradling it. Oak leaves were historically used as dining plates in Japan. In kashiwa mochi, the leaves, which aren’t eaten, infuse the mochi with a unique aroma and are a sign that spring is coming to an end and summer will be arriving soon. Kashiwa mochi is typically eaten on 5 May, which is Children’s Day in Japan and also a national holiday.

HANAMI DANGO Put the Japanese tradition of flower viewing and a popular rice dumpling snack together, and you get hanami dango. Dango generally refers to a stick of three or four steamed rice balls that are eaten sweet or savoury. Hanami dango consists of a trio of pink, white and green mochi dumplings — they represent cherry blossoms in spring, snow in winter and grass in summer respectively.

ICHIGO DAIFUKU Fans of this treat love its contrasting blend of textures and flavours. After all, ichigo daifuku is a moreish combination of red bean paste and juicy strawberries — which are abundant during springtime — wrapped within thin, chewy mochi skin. Fun fact: Ichigo daifuku is actually a relatively “new” concoction, created during the 1980s. OISHII

RECIPE

Exceptional AYA OSADA

EGOMA

RECIPES AND PHOTOS AYA OSADA TRANSLATION MAKOTO YOSHIDA EDITED BY DENYSE YEO

Cooking researcher and nutritionist Aya Osada uncovers the benefits of wild sesame oil in this final instalment of our four-part series on essential Japanese ingredients.

little bit of egoma (wild sesame) oil goes a long way in Japanese cuisine. You might be familiar with shiso, the little plant whose leaves are widely used in Japanese dishes. But have you heard of egoma? It’s easy to confuse the two. Also known as wild sesame in English, egoma looks like the bright green shiso yet its leaves are rounder and firmer than shiso. They also taste different. Egoma originates from Southeast Asia and also grows in the mountain ranges of India and China, in Yunnan province. Historically, egoma made its way from these places to Japan and Korea. In Japan, egoma is considered to be the oldest oil as traces of what had already been cultivated have been found at several ancient sites that date from between 5,500 and 10,000 years ago. Egoma was used to fuel lamps in the early Heian period (794 to 1185) and as an industrial oil for painting umbrellas, lanterns and crafts in the mid-Edo period (1603 and 1868). Egoma has been used as food in Japan for only a short period. But the health boom in the country in recent years has led many to give egoma a second look. After all, the plant is used widely in neighbouring South Korea, where there is a traditional

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food culture of eating egoma leaves and making kimchi with egoma. In Japan, egoma seeds are ground and used in a sauce for a traditional snack known as gohei mochi, grilled rice cake with a sweet walnut miso paste. ALL ABOUT EGOMA OIL Oils and fat are an essential part of a healthy diet. Instead of saying “oil makes us fat” or “animal fat increases cholesterol levels”, we should be paying attention to the benefits of fatty acids in oil and consider using healthy oils in a well-balanced diet. Omega-3 fatty acids (α-linolenic acid) and omega-6 fatty acids (linoleic acid) are essential fatty acids that cannot be made in our bodies. It is important to take these two fatty acids in a well-balanced manner. Modern diets tend to include too much omega-6 and too few omega-3 fatty acids. Recent reports have noted that the imbalance between omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids is one of the causes of allergies and lifestyle-related diseases. Because omega-3 fatty acids cannot be made by the human body on its own, they need to be included in your daily diet. Egoma oil is high in omega-3 fatty acids and is a good ingredient to add to a healthy diet.

RECIPE

MISO SOUP WITH RAPESEED FLOWERS, POTATOES AND EGOMA OIL

SIMMERED SALMON AND SPRING VEGETABLES

INGREDIENTS (Serves 2)

1 potato

2 salmon fillets

Water

Salt and pepper to season

20g rapeseed flowers

½ bamboo shoot

400ml dashi broth

1½ tbsp miso

2 asparagus spears, hard ends removed and sliced diagonally

2 tsp egoma oil

½ carrot, chopped 4 snap peas, trimmed and sliced

METHOD 1. Cut potato into bite-sized pieces and immerse them in water. 2. Boil rapeseed flowers, then cool in cold water. Drain and cut the flowers into 3cm widths. 3. Add dashi broth and potato pieces to a saucepan. Cook until potatoes are tender. 4. Add rapeseed flowers. Add miso and stir until dissolved. 5. Serve in a bowl and drizzle egoma oil.

2 tsp egoma oil METHOD 1. Season salmon with salt and pepper. Grill the salmon. 2. Boil bamboo shoot, then cut into 1cm pieces. 3. In a saucepan, bring dashi broth to the boil, then add vegetables. Remove the vegetables when tender. 4. Plate the grilled salmon with the cooked vegetables. 5. Season with salt and drizzle egoma oil.

You can buy egoma oil (180g) from Meidi-Ya Supermarket at 1 Kim Seng Promenade, #B2-111–121 Great World City, Singapore 237994. OISHII

P O S T C A R D F R O M J A PA N

Spring’s snow wonder

ot quite the gigantic ice wall in Game of Thrones, the Yuki-no-otani snow wall on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is nonetheless impressive. With 18-metre-tall snow walls, about the height of a five-storey building, this icy passageway is a stunning sight to behold, especially on bright, blue-sky days. Walk this portion of the route and you’ll feel as though you are wandering through a frosty tunnel. The Yuki-no-otani snow wall is not a natural phenomenon. Every year, it is painstakingly created by snowplough operators for about a month. These human drivers carve the corridor out of deep snow using mobile satellite phones, GPS and bulldozers. That’s because the Tateyama mountain range in Japan’s Northern Alps, on the border between Toyama and Nagano prefectures, has some of the world’s heaviest snowfall. Tateyama sees an average of 7 metres most years; in years with especially heavy snowfall, snow can pile up 20 metres high. Although the snow walls remain even until August, they become smaller as the ice melts away with the warmer weather. The best time to take in this man-made marvel is when the walls are at their

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largest, from mid-April to the end of May. While the Yuki-no-otani snow wall is about 500 metres long, the entire Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is 90 kilometres long. Sightseers take about six to seven hours to cross the full route using different transportation modes to get from point to point: two funicular cable cars, a bus, an electric trolleybus and an aerial tramway. The Yuki-no-otani snow wall is along the bus route between Midagahara and Murodo, the highest point on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route. You can stop halfway, but you will need to book a different time slot on another bus for the journey onwards or back. Besides the snow corridor, other must-visit spots on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route include Japan’s largest waterfall Shomyo Falls and the Midagahara alpine wetlands. In autumn, the Tateyama range is also excellent for fall foliage. Then there is Kurobe Dam, Japan’s tallest dam towering at 186 metres and an engineering marvel that took seven years to build. This year, the full Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route is open from 15 April to 30 November. Dates might vary slightly, so check the website for the latest information. www.alpen-route.com/en

TEXT DENYSE YEO PHOTO JNTO

Marvel at the spectacular Yuki-no-otani snow wall on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route.

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Oishii#25 ebook

Articles inside

Spring has sprung

Trust the chef

Making a sea change

The egoma has landed

A fish to remember

Simply irresistible

Flower power

A week to remember