Oishii#23 ebook by Oishii

ISSUE 23 OCTOBER-DECEMBER 2019 MCI(P)025/08/2019

A flair for

FUSION

Chef Haikal Johari keeps the flame alive at Alma by Juan Amador

WEST SIDEstories

Wild about wagyu Wow your friends with classic beef recipes

Tales of great sights and good eats in Hiroshima, Tsuyama & Miyajima

Nature’s bounty Showcasing the very best of Japan’s autumn harvest

When innovation MEETS tradition

A fresh new spin on Japanese favourites Scan the QR code to catch up on back issues of OISHII magazine

HOTPOT

PUBLISHER Takeshi NAITO MEDIA JAPAN PTE LTD 4 Leng Kee Road #04-12 SiS Building Singapore 159088 Tel: +65 6748 1822 E-mail: oishii@mediajapan.sg Website: www.oishii.sg EDITORIAL PARTNER Unicorn Publishing

OISHII ISSUE 23

NTENTS

02 Falling for sake and fruit Autumn is the season for fruit harvesting and sake brewing.

EDITOR Denyse Yeo

Year-end treats The year winds down with F&B and lifestyle events here and in Japan.

SUB-EDITOR Charmaine Chan

DESIGNER Gina Ang

Perfect pairing Italian food and Japanese sake go together unexpectedly well.

PHOTOGRAPHERS Japan: Chisato Nyunoya Singapore: Raymond Toh Peter Lee

PRINTED IN SINGAPORE NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd

Putting stock in Singaporeans’ love of Japanese food The secrets to the local success of Japanese supermarket Meidi-Ya.

Printed by NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd

DISTRIBUTOR Region Periodicals Distributor Pte Ltd ADVERTISEMENT ENQUIRIES E-mail: ad@mediajapan.sg

A winning touch French influences and Japanese ingredients fuse perfectly at Alma by Juan Amador.

The dish pictured on the cover was specially prepared by Chef Haikal Johari.

Go west Hiroshima, Tsuyama city and the island of Miyajima offer visitors the best of western Japan.

High tea the Japanese way The traditional English favourite is given a different spin.

is the publication under Media Japan Pte Ltd. While every effort has been made to ensure that information is correct at the time of print, Media Japan Pte Ltd cannot be held responsible for the outcome of any action or decision based on the information contained in this publication or any websites and publicity materials associated with it. The publishers and authors do not give any warranty for the completeness or accuracy for this publication’s content, explanation or opinion. All rights are reserved and no part of this publication may be reproduced in part or in full without the formal written permission of the publisher. Trademarks, logos, copyrights, and depictions contained herein are the properties of their respective trademark and copyrights owners. © Media Japan Pte Ltd. All rights reserved. MCI(P)025/08/2019

Rich pickings From sweet potatoes to saba, here are the best autumn offerings.

Modern classics Japanese restaurants that offer a fresh take on traditional dishes.

44 World of wagyu Recipes that showcase the

world-famous Japanese beef.

Postcard from Japan A look at the Kishiwada Danjiri Festival in Osaka Prefecture.

WIN JAPANESE RICE FROM FUKUI PREFECTURE Promotion period:

From now until 30 October 2019, by 5pm Twenty lucky winners who sign up as a new OISHII member during the promotional period will stand a chance to win a 2 kilogram bag of Japanese rice from Fukui Prefecture.* *Winners will be announced on 1 November 2019. Other terms and conditions apply.

We post about Japanese food, culture, lifestyle and eateries in Singapore. So follow our Facebook and Instagram, and be one of the first to know about the latest trends! Join our Instagram contest and win a Canon EOS M100! See page 3 for more details. https://www.facebook.com/oishii.magazine/ Instagram: @oishiisg OISHII

O P E N I N G N OT E

FALLING for sake and fruit

TEXT CLARA CHOW PHOTO 123RF

The burst of autumnal colours signals the start of sake-making season and abundant fruit harvests.

erhaps the leaves are still green when you crack open a bottle of hiya oroshi. Or you may be accepting a small porcelain cup of aki agari from a friend under flaming foliage and a full moon. Maybe, you have come to a sake festival held in a history-steeped town — like Saijo in Higashihiroshima City — strolling from brewery to brewery to sample their unique offerings. In any case, autumn in Japan is for sake, or traditional Japanese rice wine (as well as for savouring bountiful fruit harvests). Since 1978, 1 October has been designated World Sake Day (“Nihonshu no Hi”), marking the official start to sake-making season. These days, the celebrations have spread throughout Europe and America, with tastings and special menus offered by London eateries and one hotel in San Francisco serving up 200 different iterations of the rice wine. According to Japan-related news website Nippon.com, exports of nihonshu (the more precise term for the Japanese liquor, as the word “sake” can refer to any alcoholic drink) have risen steadily in the past two decades or

OISHII

so: from 7,052 kilolitres in 2001 to 23,482 kilolitres in 2017. And even as the drink faces competition from beer, whiskies and other wines and liqueurs, demand is being bolstered by a new breed of craft sake — cult brands popular with 20-something drinkers. These include Kamoshibito Kuheiji, a limited-edition brand founded by former fashion model Kuno Kuheiji, which is served in Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris. Swish Tokyo development Roppongi Hills also holds a Craft Sake Week, which throngs with drinkers with fine glass cups in hand, in search of their next premium tipple. Former football superstar Hidetoshi Nakata has devoted himself to making high-end sake, as well as helping to develop an app called Sakenomy, which translates sake labels, provides a guide to sake-makers and recommends pairings. Autumnal sake like aki agari — as opposed to the young sake produced in spring — is released after a proper maturation period, which rounds out and deepens its flavour. Today, the term refers broadly to sake from a maker’s most recent batch, which is released in the

fall. Hiya oroshi, on the other hand, is specifically sake that’s pasteurised only once — as opposed to the usual twice. This practice harks back to the days before refrigeration, where finished sake was pasteurised both before transferring to cedar tanks for maturation, and before shipping out in smaller casks. Lower temperatures in autumn meant that the sake could ship without another round of pasteurisation to prevent it from going bad. The result is a fresher, livelier taste. Kanpai! Given the fall harvests, fruit and sake is a natural combination: everything from yuzu-infused sake, to “sakegria”, the Japanese answer to Spanish sangria. For teetotallers, however, snacking on the delicious fruits is one of life’s affordable pleasures. Look out for figs (ichijiku) in early autumn. Persimmons, or kaki, are plentiful from late autumn and can be eaten raw or dried. As autumn gives way to winter, load up on citrus fruits to stave off colds. Mikan, or mandarin oranges, do not have seeds, while yuzu can even be used in baths for health benefits.

JOIN OUR INSTAGRAM CONTEST And stand a

chance to win a Canon EOS M100 Camera (worth $799) or a $100 OISHII voucher!

STEP 1

STEP 2

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CANON EOS M100 1 ST P L A C E @yehonala5

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Take photos of what you like about Japan (eg. food, places, people, culture, etc...)

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Upload your photo on Instagram with #oishiicontest23 and tag friends for a higher chance of winning!

Winners will be announced in OISHII magazine vol.24, issued on 2 January, 2020. All winners will be contacted via e-mail or phone on prize collection details.

PHOTO BY MOHAMED NASHAH ON UNSPLASH

Supported by:

Ayumi Nagami: This photo is full of colour and the sky is very blue and high.

#OISHIICONTEST22

Ayumi Nagami: This is one of the symbols of summer, especially in Hiroshima. Good composition.

Contest judge Born in Hiroshima, Japan, Ayumi Nagami (Instagram: @ayuminagami and @luvrio) is a photographer based in Singapore. She focuses on sports photography, stage photography, portraits and landscape photography, and is the official photographer of Japanese football club Albirex Niigata Singapore.

$100 VOUCHER 3 RD P L A C E @viv_sml

Ayumi Nagami: Very summer. The number of sunflowers is overwhelming.

23 st te n o iic pm TERMS & CONDITIONS ish 9, 5 1. Please do not post any photographs that are obscene, vulgar, pornographic, hateful, threatening, racist, sexist, discriminatory, or which otherwise violate any local or international laws. 2. You must o be the copyright owner of any works submitted and you also confirm you have the necessary permission from people who may appear in the photo. 3. Photos uploaded to the contest cannot be ). 01 r# deleted and may remain published. 4. By entering this contest, you agree that any winning image or runner-up images you submit may be used by OISHII magazine solely for the purpose of fo er 2 time e b t this contest or future contests and no other purpose. 5. The judgesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; decision is final and they do not engage in communication with regard to entries. 6. Prizes are subject to availability and e da cem or OISHII has the right to substitute any prize for a comparable prize of equal value without prior notice. 7. This contest is currently open to residents of Singapore. 8. OISHII has the right to g e ap vary or amend the terms and conditions of this contest. in For updates on the contest, please visit our Facebook page (www.facebook.com/oishii.magazine) By entering this contest, you are deemed to have understood and agreed os s 1 D Sing l i C ( with the terms set out above.

J A PA N F O O D E X P O R T FA I R

27 - 29 NOV 2019 (WED - FRI) MAKUHARI MESSE JAPAN

In 2016, Japan’s Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry, and Fisheries approached Reed Exhibitions Japan, the largest trade show organiser in Japan, for help with a trade show promoting the export of Japanese food products to achieve 1 trillion Japanese yen. Tad Ishizumi, President of Reed Exhibitions Japan, jumped at the opportunity.

I was surprised by the proposal as it is the opposite of the current approach, which sees Japanese food suppliers exhibiting at international trade shows,” he said. “However, I was quickly convinced that it would be more effective to attract buyers from around the world to Japan.

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“JAPAN’S FOOD” EXPORT FAIR is Japan’s leading specialised trade fair for international importers/buyers to purchase Japanese foods and beverages. The 3rd edition will attract 700 exhibitors including 200 newcomers and 18,000 international visitors from 80 countries/regions. See details at www.jpfood.jp/en/. *The numbers are expected.

WHY VISIT?

• Specialised show for purchasing Japan’s food • All exhibitors are eager to export (English meeting available)

• You can find various Japan’s foods/beverages

3 r d “J A PA N ’ S F O O D ” E X P O R T FA I R A D V E R T O R I A L

VISITOR & EXHIBITOR PROFILE VISITOR

EXHIBITOR BUSINESS MEETING

Importer/Distributor Buyer from:

Supplier of:

• Agri-food • Meat, Seafood • Processed Food • Confectionery • Beverage, Seasoning • Tableware/kitchen tool

Importing Japan’s food/beverage products

• Retailer/Supermarket • Hotel/Department store • Restaurant • Food processing firm • Food service

Exploring new-tomarket brands Consulting import/ logistics procedures

Trade association Japanese exporter Press

Export assistance company Logistics company

FLOOR PLAN Seafood

Beverage

Seasoning

Alcohol

· Fish

· Soft Drink

· Sake

· Soy Sauce

· Seaweed

· Milk Beverage

· Beer

· Tonkatsu Sauce

· Shellfish

· Crustacean

· Dried/Smoked-

· Juice

· Water · Tea

· Rice/Grain · Vegetable · Fruit

· Meat

· Organic Food etc.

· Whisky

· Plum Wine

seafood etc. etc.

Agri-Food & Meat

· Sho-chu

· Miso

HALL 1 - 3

Tableware & Kitchen Tool

Health & Beauty Food

· Japanese Tableware · Nutritional Supplement · Diet Food

· Pottery

· Functional Food

· Sweet Sake (Mirin) · Chopsticks

· Health Beverage · Vinegar · Kitchen Knives etc. etc. etc. etc.

Processed Food

Japanese Tea

Confectionery & Snack

· Instant Food

· Frozen Food

· Green Tea

· Snack

· Cake

· Retort Pouch Food

· Canned/Bottled Food

· Roasted Green Tea

· Chocolate

· Ice Cream

· Dairy Product

· Noodle

· Processed Agri-food · Processed Meat · Processed Seafood · Processed Rice

· Cookie

· Barley Tea

· Candy/Gum

· Rice Confectionery

· Brown Rice Tea

etc.

HALL 3 EXTRANCE/EXIT

· Matcha

· Japanese Confectionery

etc.

HALL 2 EXTRANCE/EXIT

HALL 1 EXTRANCE/EXIT

SHOW HIGHLIGHTS

About 400 kinds of food that promote health and beauty will be on display.

Discover popular and unique made-in-Japan snacks from over 100 exhibitors!

Health & Beauty Food

Made-In-Japan Sweets and Snacks

Alcohol/Sake Zone

Japanese Tea Zone

You will discover tasty and new-to-market Japanese alcoholic beverages, like sake, beer, whisky and sho-chu.

Various Japanese teas such as green tea, roasted green tea and matcha will be showcased from all over Japan.

OISHII

EVENTS

YEAR-END TREATS

Wind down the year with marquee F&B and lifestyle events in Japan and Singapore. OSAKA, JAPAN

SINGAPORE

Fabex Kansai 2019 Intex Osaka, 16 to 18 October 2019 Fabex Kansai 2019 is back for its seventh year. With more than 400 exhibitors and 40,000 expected visitors, it is Japan’s largest general trade fair for commercial food, cooking ingredients, equipment and containers, targeting Kansai and western Japan. The event will also be held concurrently with three other exhibitions: Desserts Sweets and Bakery Festival 2019, Café and Drink Show 2019 and Local Food Brand Fair 2019. Entrance tickets cost 4,000 yen (S$53) each.

Tokyo Ramen Show 2019 Komazawa Olympic Park Central Square, 24 to 29 October 2019 and 30 October to 4 November 2019 Ramen fans, rejoice! Japan’s largest outdoor ramen event is back for its 11th year. Sample at least 36 different types of local ramen specialities as well as original collaborations that can only be found here, by some of the most famous ramen shops in Japan. Although admission is free, expect to pay 880 yen or S$10 (excl. tax) for one ramen ticket, which entitles you to a bowl of ramen. SINGAPORE

Food Japan 2019 Suntec Convention Centre Hall 401-402, 31 October to 2 November 2019 Gain valuable insights while networking with leading Japanese F&B companies at the largest trade showcase of Japanese F&B in ASEAN. Featuring more than 200 exhibitors, the three-day event is expected to draw more than 11,000 visitors. Japanese culinary techniques, innovative food technology, machinery and ingredients including prefecture specialities will be on display. Visitors can also take part in demos and classes. SINGAPORE

Whisky Live Singapore Andaz Singapore, 9 to 10 November 2019 Back for its tenth year in Singapore and covering a floor area of more than 2,100 square metres, this event is billed as the island’s biggest whisky and spirits festival. Taste up to 900 spirits from all over the world, attend hourly master classes conducted by whisky experts and distillers, and learn how to concoct your favourite cocktail from drink-makers. Stopping by the Collector’s Room, featuring rare and vintage whiskies from the ’60s and ’70s, is a must. Tickets start from S$55 for a half-day pass. Master classes cost S$25 per person per class.

OISHII

The Great Wine & Dine Festival Resorts World Sentosa, 11 to 12 November 2019 Held in conjunction with the inaugural Wine Pinnacle Awards, this event showcases some of the world’s best wines. Featuring over 200 wines and craft sake, as well as master classes by the world’s top wine critics, the event is a one-stop shop for wine lovers. Embark on a gastronomic adventure with a tantalising spread of food and desserts as well as wine pairing dinners at Resorts World Sentosa’s celebrity chef restaurants. A standard pass costs S$60 and is available onsite or at www.winepinnacle.com. SINGAPORE

Christmas on a Great Street 2019 Orchard Road, 16 November to 1 January Join Santa Claus when he comes to town this Christmas as Singapore’s iconic shopping street, Orchard Road, transforms into a colourful, whimsical playground. The annual Orchard Road Christmas light-up has been a marquee event for Singaporeans and visitors for the past 35 years. Dazzling lights dress up overhead street lamps as equally sparkling festive decorations adorn surrounding shopping malls. Spread the festive cheer by heading to the Great Christmas Villages, where you can hop on amusement rides, groove to live music performances and indulge in carnival food and drinks. TOKYO, JAPAN

Drink Japan 2019 Makuhari Messe, 27 to 29 November 2019 This trade event brings together industry players across the whole spectrum of F&B development, manufacturing and sales. Some 11,000 visitors are expected to attend, with close to 200 exhibitors from more than 20 countries on site. It is the biggest F&B trade show in Japan, and a useful platform for exploring commercial collaborations between manufacturers and distributors. Tickets are free with prior registration on www. drinkjapan.jp, and can be purchased for 5,000 yen (S$66) on site.

COMPILED BY MABEL LEE

TOKYO, JAPAN

Celebrate the day of sake,

KANPAI!

Did you know that 1 October is World Sake Day (Nihonsyu no hi)? It was first celebrated in 1978, after a declaration by the Japan Sake Brewers Association. Today, it’s celebrated not only in Japan, but all over the world. There are some reasons why the date of 1 October was chosen. First, this date marks the start of new sakebrewing season that runs all the way till April the following year. And as the beginning of autumn, it also happens to the best season to sample a variety of sakes, after spring’s young brews have mellowed and started to become more complex, like the sake types known as Hiyaoroshi or Akiagari. Celebrating the sixth edition of OISHII KANPAI!, we are marking the occasion as we have always done, with many friends and partners at a convivial and comfortable venue in Singapore. It’s really our pleasure to see more sake lovers spreading sake culture widely with joy here. For this year, we are proud of our partnership with Millennium Hotel Group, to bring in more than 30 different kinds of sake — many of which are presented in Singapore for the first time. It’s time to raise your cups and KANPAI! together!

Join us for our sixth anniversary event

OISHII KANPAI! 2019

Free flow premium sake + a buffet of local delights Date: Tuesday, 1 October 2019 Time: 7pm to 9.30pm (Doors open at 6.30pm) Venue: Grissini, Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel Singapore Organiser:

Early bird price: S$110 nett

Partner:

Sponsor:

Ticket price: S$120 nett

For more ticketing details, log on to https://oishiikanpai2019.peatix.com

OISHII member: S$110 nett

PERFECT PAIRING It may sound like an odd coupling, but Japanese sake and Italian food can be an unexpectedly delicious combo.

ay Japanese sake and the usual suspects of sashimi, ramen, tempura and grilled meats come to mind immediately as the ideal complements. But what if you paired sake with Italian cuisine? The idea isn’t as far-fetched as it may sound. Sake lovers will tell you that the drink has the most unami (best described as the fifth taste alongside sweet, salty, bitter and sour) compared with other alcoholic beverages like wine and beer. In fact, some fans even go as far as to say that sake offers more of an aftertaste of cheese than white wine does, which means that the Japanese drink goes well with anything cheesy — something that features heavily in most Italian menus. And if you are looking for the ultimate gastronomic high, then coupling a unami drink with unami food will get you there. Fast. Mirko Vinci, head chef of Italian grill restaurant Grissini at Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel, definitely thinks so. “In general, sake works very well with Italian food because the principles of making them are very similar. You have to start with a good base ingredient — for sake, it’s water and rice and, in Italian food, it’s the flavours of the land.” For instance, Grissini serves lip-smacking options like lobster tagliolini, homemade potato gnocchi, braised wagyu beef cheek and a variety of charcuterie dishes with deli meats, dried fruit, cheeses and heirloom tomatoes.

Mirko Vinci, head chef of Italian grill restaurant Grissini at Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel

OISHII

“The generally low acidity of most sakes helps to enhance many unami flavours found in Italian food,” adds Vinci, who hails from the Puglia region in southern Italy, where he would help his mother and grandmother whip up hearty Sunday lunches. “I feel that the best dishes to try are those that have a stronger flavour profile as the acidity helps to spread those flavours throughout the mouth.” After all, modern sakes now include highly acidic, fruity and even sweet and sparkling formulas. In general, sake experts liken sake pairing to Western wine pairing. So, if you are having seafood or fish, go with a light-bodied sake. But if you are having meat or grilled dishes, a more complex sake with more body and structure would enhance the robust flavours. If you feel adventurous, you can even play with similarities: Sip on a fruity, citrus sake while nibbling on savoury food that tastes best with a squeeze of lemon, like baked fish, for instance. Sake, however, does not complement very spicy dishes, which you usually do not find in Italian cuisine anyway. Says Vinci, who has worked with Michelin-starred chefs in Milan, London and Singapore: “Everyone’s taste is different. There really isn’t a right or wrong in how you pair your sake with your food. What’s important is what we taste for ourselves. The best pairings are always those which feature seasonal flavours and fresh ingredients.”

Delicious unagi grilled over binchōtan is a favourite Japanese dish.

Shirayaki unagi (roasted eel seasoned with salt).

PHOTO: FREEPIK.COM

KANEMITSU UNAGI Premium-quality eels from Aichi Prefecture are what you’ll get from the Kanemitsu Group. The eels are cultivated in the group’s eel culture pond, where they thrive in fresh water streams that are diligently maintained. They are regularly fed with Kanemitsu’s original brand of nutritious combination feed. In the kitchen, the eels are hand-grilled over binchōtan (white charcoal traditionally used

Preparing unagi for the kitchen.

in Japanese cooking) and basted in a secret recipe sauce. The flesh is crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, bringing out the full flavour of the unagi. Eel never tasted this good! All these products are brought to you by Sel La Vie, which also operates an SFA/ NEA-endorsed coworking kitchen at Infinite Studios.

ANEMITSU INC. 18-1 Isshiki-Higashi-simoniwari, Isshiki-cho, Nishio City, Aichi 444-0423 Tel: +81- 563-73-6688

g tea Harvestin Aichi o, hi is in N e. Prefectur

AOI MATCHA

Have your pick of green tea from Aoi Matcha. The world’s leading Japanese manufacturer of organic and conventional matcha (green tea) grows most of its tea in the Nishio area of Japan, known as the green tea capital of the country. Offering an extensive array of matcha grades, from its award-winning

ceremonial matcha to cost-effective bulk ingredient grade matcha, you can count on Aoi Matcha’s over 100 years of experience to provide only the bestquality green tea. The company also exports wholesale, bulk and private-label matcha to companies across the globe.

Green tea syrup is used in kakigori.

AOISEICHA CO. LTD 7-2 Kamiyashiki,Kamimachi Nishio City, Aichi 445-0894 Tel: +81-563-57-2570

OISHII

YUTAKA FOODS CO. LTD. Yutaka Foods was established in 1919 in Aichi Prefecture in Japan. Interestingly, they started as a lumber company, and only switched to manufacturing miso and soy sauces in 1952. Today, they make instant noodles, but their primary business is to manufacture seasonings both in liquid and powder forms. Liquid seasonings include eel sauces, noodle soup bases and white soy sauces for soup stocks.

YUTAKA FOODS CO. LTD. 34-1, Kawawaki, Taketoyo-cho, Chitagun, Aichi 470-2395 Tel: +81-0569-72-1231

NAKANO SAKE BREWERY CO., LTD.

The brewmasters strive to create high-quality Japanese sake, adhering not only to tradition but also introducing innovative methods to create a new distinct type of sake. Nakano Sake Brewery Co., Ltd. 2-24, Higashi Honmachi, Handa City, Aichi 475-0878 Tel: +81-569-23-1230 https://www.nakanoshuzou.jp/en/products.html

SAWADA-SHUZOU CO., LTD.

Sawada-Shuzo Co. Ltd. is a sake brewing company that has been operating in the Chita area of Aichi Prefecture since 1848. Sawada-Shuzo specialises in a traditional brewing technique that yields the mellow-tasting sake, Hakuro. Sawada-Shuzo Co. Ltd. 4-10, Koba-cho, Tokoname City, Aichi479-0818 Tel: +81-569-35-4003

K A N PA I E V E N T

Let’s KANPAI

together at our associated restaurants on 1 October! Each restaurant will provide one complimentary cup of sake at KANPAI time!

Akane

Izakaya Niningashi KANPAI! Time 8.00pm Opening hours 11.30am - 2.30pm 6.00pm - 10.30pm Address 120 Adam Road, Singapore 289899 Reservation Walk-in*Only Members Telephone 6591 7624 Website http://www.jas.org.sg/dining/ akane/akane_ja.html

Echigotei

KANPAI premium Tokubetsujunmai 4 kinds tasting set $25.90++ Hiroki, Denshu, Jikon and Nabeshima, 50ml each

Tommy’s Sake Bar KANPAI! Time 8.00pm Opening hours 3.00pm -11.30pm (LO: 11.15pm) Address 35 Cuppage Road, Cuppage Terrace, Singapore 229459 Reservation Walk-in Telephone 6333 4633 Website http://www.tomisushi.asia

Tsukune Ichigo

PHOTO: FREEPIK.COM/JIGSAWSTOCKER

KANPAI SET MENU

KANPAI! Time 8.00pm Opening hours 12.00pm - 2.30pm 6.00pm - 11.00pm (LO: 10.00pm) Address 2 Craig Road, Singapore 089662 Reservation Walk-in Telephone 6970 0224 Website https://www.facebook.com/ izakayaniningashi/

KANPAI! Time 8.00pm Opening hours 11.30am - 2.30pm 5.30pm - 9.30pm Address 182 Cecil Street, #01-09, Singapore 069547 Reservation Walk-in Telephone 6203 5457 Website http://www.tomisushi.asia

JUN Oden & Sake Bar KANPAI! Time 8.00pm Opening hours 6.00pm - 11.30pm (LO: 10.00pm) Address 399 River Valley Road, Singapore 248295 Reservation Walk-in Telephone 6736 1340 Website https://www.facebook.com/ TsukuneIchigo.sg

Check out our OISHII KANPAI! Facebook page for more detailed information.

KANPAI! Time 8.00pm Opening hours 7.00pm -11.00pm Address 150 Orchard Road, #02-21 Orchard Plaza, Singapore 238841 Reservation Necessary Telephone 9625 1224 Website https://www.facebook.com/ JUNSAKEBAR

OISHII

INTERVIEW

Hokkaido Dosanko Plaza at the new Meidi-Ya

The new Meidi-Ya at Great World City

PUTTING STOCK in Singaporeans’ love of Japanese food

“W

Meidi-Ya’s Managing Director, Nagoshi Shuji, shares the secret to the Japanese grocery chain’s success in Singapore.

hen we opened our first outlet in Singapore in 2003, we knew that we were bringing a much-loved household name from Japan. We were also committed to staying true to our Japanese roots. The Meidi-Ya brand has a rich heritage and is well known for delivering high-quality produce and products, excellent service and a welcoming environment. When we opened our doors in Singapore, we knew we had to make sure to honour those values, and we continue to do so today. Although Japanese departmental stores already had a presence in Singapore in 2003, Meidi-Ya offered shoppers something different — an authentic upmarket supermarket shopping experience straight out of Japan. We have served the needs of our customers over the years by offering them a wide range of high-quality items from international brands, but more importantly, a comprehensive selection of items imported directly from Japan. We are also proud of our in-house brand, which features a range of products such as fresh jam, syrups and sauces, that is fully produced in and imported from Japan. Over the years, the ingredients and flavours featured in our in-house products have evolved alongside the changing demands and tastes of consumers.

OISHII

Tasting the world and a love for healthy food

Singaporeans have always been well travelled, and I believe this leads them to appreciate authentic and unique goods from across the globe. As such, I believe the demand for Japanese groceries and products is likely to be driven by the increasing number of Singaporeans travelling to Japan. After experiencing the amazing flavours of Japan, they often return to Singapore and seek out these food items again at Japanese retailers across the island. In today’s digital age, consumers are also extremely knowledgeable and resourceful. They often read up on recipes online, and those who want to try out home-cooked Japanese food come into Meidi-Ya armed with a list of ingredients to buy. Furthermore, as people become more health conscious, consuming a healthy diet with fresh ingredients has become increasingly important. The traditional Japanese diet is known for being healthy, fresh and unprocessed, with minimal refined foods or sugar. With each new Japanese store opening in Singapore, just as with our new outlet at Great World City, there is much excitement and anticipation. With Great World City’s ongoing refurbishment, we felt that it was a

good opportunity for us to not only complement the other Japanese-themed shops in the mall, but also be part of a modern and wide-ranging retail space. Great World City offers shopping experiences for everyone and has a diverse shopper mix, which makes it an excellent location for us. The upcoming Great World MRT station will also provide greater convenience for our customers. Our outlet at Great World City is a speciality store, which imports the majority of its products directly from Japan. One key highlight of the outlet is the Hokkaido Dosanko Plaza that has an adjoining 40-seat casual dining food court. It houses Singapore’s first Sapporo Nishiyama Ramen stall, and is operated by famed Hokkaido-based ramen and gyoza manufacturer Nishiyama Seimen. We will also be introducing seasonal products that will vary across our outlets. For instance, we introduced an exclusive range of fruit sorbets for the opening of the Great World City outlet, featuring unique flavours like tomato and pear. Regardless of the times, there will always be a place for high-quality products and companies with strong cultural identities. We believe strongly in the quality, value and range of products carried at Meidi-Ya, and maintaining that has been our enduring mission since day one.”

TEXT FRANCIS KAN

Nagoshi Shuji, Managing Director of Meidi-Ya

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CELEBRITY CHEF

A WINNING TOUCH

Chef Haikal Johari from Alma by Juan Amador adds French nuances to a charming combination of Hanasaki crab and muskmelon.

lma by Juan Amador’s reputation precedes its creations. The modern European restaurant has a single Michelin star and bears the name of legendary celebrity Chef Juan Amador. There is also a powerful back story behind the 42-year-old chef who helms the kitchen today. After a motorbike accident, Executive Chef Haikal Johari was left paralysed from the neck down. Undeterred, the chef continued to run the restaurant, maintaining the restaurant’s Michelin star from his wheelchair. You would expect a chef who made his craft his raison d’etre to have a more complicated culinary philosophy. However, Chef Haikal’s approach could not be simpler. “Use the best produce available from any part of the world, and make food that is tasty and looks good,” he says matter-of-factly.

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That is the essence of his signature offering this season, Hanasaki Gani. Despite its poetic name, which means “Red Flower’s Wish” in Japanese, the real magic lies in the ingredients. Hanasaki, of course, also refers to the famous Hanasaki crab. This sweet crustacean is imported from Hanasaki port in the crab capital of Japan, Hokkaido. It is combined with muskmelon from Iwata, the most expensive fruit in Japan, as well as locally sourced calamansi and herbs. The main ingredients may be from Japan however, the chef shares that the dish reflects French influences. “Using crab with fruits is a western style of food pairing. We paired the Japanese crab with melon for sweetness and calamansi for acidity,” he explains. This light and refreshing combination does not feel heavy even on the most sweltering days.

TEXT ANNIE TAN PHOTOGRAPHY PETER LEE

Hanasaki crab and Iwata muskmelon are beautifully combined in this French-inspired dish

CELEBRITY CHEF

OF HIS FAVE JAPANESE INGREDIENTS

Enjoy this exquisite summer dish with Alma’s wide selection of New and Old World wines

To extract the full flavour of the ocean, the crabs are simply steamed. Japanese muskmelon is served fresh and also as a sorbet to add a touch of coolness, brightness and freshness. Finally, the calamansi is made into a very thin jelly to encase the crabmeat. The meat and skin of the fruit is also cooked into a bright, slightly tart jam to balance this sweet creation. “Our philosophy is to showcase the different textures and flavours of a single ingredient,” shares Chef Haikal. With a combination of European and Japanese techniques, he brings out the character of the crabs, muskmelons and calamansi in a new exciting way. After all, Alma means “soul” in Spanish. And ingredients are the soul of a great dish. Alma by Juan Amador is at Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Road. Tel: 6735 9937.

PASSION ON A PLATE It is hard to mention Chef Haikal Johari these days without thinking about his motorcycle accident in October 2015. It left him paralysed from the neck down, a condition that doctors said he might never recover from. The gritty chef however, rose above personal tragedy. Despite being wheelchair-bound, weakened and having to go for frequent physiotherapy, Chef Haikal continued to lead the Alma team to maintain their Michelin one star, staying up with them until the wee hours to perfect each dish. His passion not only propelled him to push culinary boundaries, but also aided in his physical recovery — he can now walk a short distance. In 2019, he was awarded a Goh Chok Tong Enable Award, which recognises the remarkable achievements of persons with disabilities. Even before his accident, he was an accomplished chef who honed his craft at some of the finest restaurants in the region, including the Water Library in Bangkok, Thailand. He combines his training in European cuisine with his love for Asian ingredients to come up with creative dishes that excite the tastebuds.

Sanma (Pacific Saury)

“I love to cook with this fish, which is similar to sardines. You can do many things with it — you can serve it fresh, raw, cooked or smoked. There’s no limit.”

Hokkaido Grass-Fed Beef

“I like working with it. When most people talk about Japanese beef, they think of it as being soft and well-marbled, but not many people know of grass-fed beef from Hokkaido, Japan. It is full of flavour, has a good texture and is not the same as marbled beef.”

Katsuobushi

“Also known as bonito flakes, this gives a smoky flavour to stocks and sauces. In the restaurant, we use it to give more umami flavour to the finished product.”

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SANYO SHINKANSEN

(including Hello Kitty Shinkansen)

TOKYO NAGOYA

Hiroshima

Tsuyama

OKAYAMA

HIROSHIMA

KANSAI

TSUYAMA

FUKUKA

HIROSHIMA

OKAYAMA

One of a kind

HIROSHIMA

Getting to know

Magical

MIYAJIMA

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TSUYAMA CITY

F E AT U R E

GO WEST

We explore the beauty and charm of Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s west region, focussing on three areas in the Hiroshima and Okayama prefectures.

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Magical

MIYAJIMA M

ention Hiroshima and the first thing people will think of is the atomic bomb. Hiroshima has embraced this legacy and built monuments to commemorate that moment during World War II. But in the nearly 75 years that have passed, the city has grown from strength to strength and now has so much to offer visitors, including unique sights and culinary delights. One highlight lies about an hour away from Hiroshima city. Miyajima, which literally means “shrine island”, is considered one of Japan’s three most scenic spots. The first thing you notice as you come in via a 10-minute ferry ride is the red O-Torii (grand gate) of the famous Itsukushima Shrine. Depending on time and tide, the gate may be partially submerged with the shrine appearing to float on water. Behind it lies the sacred Mt Misen. Set aside a full day to explore this island, which has several other historical sights. A short walk from the ferry station takes you to the Omotesando Shopping Arcade, with rows of shops selling snacks and souvenirs. Walk towards the shrine and you’re bound to encounter the island’s resident deer — be careful, they’ll start chewing on your personal items if you’re not alert, though they won’t hurt you. Miyajima is also known for its premium Hiroshima oysters. The best season to enjoy these bivalves is in winter when they get big and juicy. A popular place to tuck into some plump oysters is Kakiya, which has been around for over 10 years. You can’t miss it as there’s a large grill at the front, full of grilled oysters. You can also enjoy them in many different ways, including raw, breaded and fried. A speciality served here is the oiled oyster, which you can purchase in a jar to bring home.

Enjoy a wide variety of oysters, which are delicious whether fresh, grilled or breadcrumbed

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M I YA J I M A

Savour Miyajima’s culinary delights Mametanuki This restaurant serves the island’s speciality, anago meshi, or conger eel rice. The eel is steamed with the rice in a porcelain bowl; this adds flavour to the dish, while the anago remains lean and light. Top it off with a sauce that’s the perfect blend of sweet and salty, and you have a tasty meal.

Momijido The constant long queue at this shop is testament to how tasty its sweet treats are. Don’t fret, the line moves quickly. The star product is the age momiji manju, a battered and deep-fried version of the regional speciality, momiji manju, a maple-leaf shaped cake filled with red bean paste, cream or cheese. Going all the way back to 1912, Momiji-do is the original purveyor of this snack, although other shops offer similar items.

Miyajima Brewery Enjoy locally made beer as you catch some of the best views of the sea at this restaurant. There are nine brews available, including the reddish momiji (maple leaf) ale. The selection changes as some of the brews are limited editions. Food-wise, you can’t go wrong with the omurice, or omelette rice. The rice is mixed with dashi, while the omelette — which includes conger eel, green onions and wasabi — is soft and oozes out over the rice when cut.

Memories from Miyajima Miyajima Brewery beer nuts and glass

Momiji manju It’s probably not a good idea to pack a fried momiji manju in your suitcase but you can buy several boxes of the regular ones. These small, individually wrapped castella cakes are filled red bean paste, cream or cheese.

Pick up several packs of beer nuts in flavours such as pepper and oyster sauce. Then fill these glasses — emblazoned with the Miyajima Brewery name — with your favourite beer and enjoy.

Oiled oysters Don’t forget to grab a jar of these marinated oysters in grapeseed oil from Kakiya. They’re rich and creamy — perfect when paired with beer or sake.

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M I YA J I M A M I YA J I M A

A CONVERSATION WITH

RICKSHAW MAN

The iconic

Itsukushima Shrine

Meet KATSUNORI INAGAKI Ebisuya Rickshaw

he most famous site on Miyajima is undoubtedly the Itsukushima Shrine with its striking red O-Torii. Itsukushima, or “island of worship”, has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was originally built over 1,400 years ago, although the current structure was built in 1168 by Taira no Kiyomori, who was head of the imperial government at the time. Built on the water, the shrine appears to float on the sea during high tide. As Miyajima is considered to be God’s island, builders weren’t allowed to anchor the 16.6-metre tall gate into the ground, so it’s kept in place by its sheer weight of 60 tonnes. The shrine itself is made up of several buildings that are connected by walkways over the water. They include a prayer hall, a main hall and a Noh theatre stage. The floating Torii gate is scheduled for renovation in June 2019, with works expected to take at least a year.

The 37-year-old has been working for Ebisuya Rickshaw for 15 years, eight of which have been on Miyajima. How healthy do you have to be to pull a rickshaw? You definitely have to be healthy. But to be honest, there’s a certain way to pull the rickshaw so anyone can do it. You have to lift the bar to a certain height in order to keep it balanced. On average, I travel about 10 kilometres a day.

What facts do you tell your customers while taking them around? Most people are surprised to hear that the Torii gate isn’t secured into the ground and is kept upright using weights on the roof. I also tell them about the fire that has been burning in a temple on Mt Misen for 1,200 years. It was started by a monk who considered the mountain very sacred and decided to stay there for 100 days.

What is your favourite place on the island? Daishoin temple at the end of the island. It has many statues, such as those of the Buddha and Kuan Yin. It was started by the same monk who stayed on Mt Misen.

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HELLO KIT T Y SHINKANSEN

All aboard the

HELLO KITTY Shinkansen L

ove trains and Hello Kitty? Then you’re in for a treat when you step onboard the Hello Kitty Shinkansen, run by West Japan Railway Company, or JR West. The service plies the Sanyo Shinkansen route, between Shin-Osaka and Hakata stations, and only one return trip is available daily. Get ready to take some really great shots because there are so many Instagrammable spots on board the train. Look out for numerous decorations featuring the popular Sanrio character and her friends, such as headrest covers and pink and purple seats. The first car on this 10-car pink and white train has been transformed into Hello! Plaza, selling Hello Kitty souvenirs and local specialities. The second car is the Kawaii! Room, featuring a life-size Hello Kitty dressed in a shinkansen uniform, and a display area with the character introducing different areas of interest within west Japan. The favourite feline holds a local delicacy from each area: A strawberry from Fukuoka and a pear from Tottori Prefecture. The good news is, it won’t cost you extra to take the Hello Kitty shinkansen if you have the special JR-West Rail Pass, such as the Setouchi Area Pass or the Sanyo-San’in Area Pass. The pass gives you unlimited access on designated trains (including non-reserved seats on the shinkansen), as well as selected buses and ferries within the region. And you can use it for five or seven whole days. For example, foreigners can buy the Setouchi Area Pass for five days within and outside Japan. After purchasing the pass online or through a travel agent, you will be given a voucher, which you can then exchange for a physical ticket at any JR ticket office. After that, you’re all set to explore gorgeous west Japan!

For more information, please go to https://www.jr-hellokittyshinkansen.jp/

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HIROSHIMA’s One-of-a-kind okonomiyaki Y

ou can’t say you’ve visited Hiroshima until you’ve tasted the local favourite, okonomiyaki. If you’ve eaten this fried pancake dish elsewhere in the country, you will notice that the version served here is different. The more common Kansai, or Osaka, style will have all the ingredients mixed together. In Hiroshima, it’s an elaborate affair as layer after layer of ingredients — noodles, cabbage, eggs and meat — are piled high onto a pancake-like batter and cooked on a hot iron griddle while you watch. A sweetsavoury sauce is then poured on top. To eat it like a local, you need to wield a metal spatula called hera, which is used to cut and scoop up the okonomiyaki. One popular spot to try this cuisine is Kasanegasane. The 14-seater eatery is located at Ekimae Hiroshima Okonomi-hiroba, on the south side of Hiroshima station, which has a total of 15 shops dedicated to serving the dish. According to chef Futoshi Okuni, the okonomiyaki must be thick so the cabbage can be stewed inside the mix. The noodles should be crispy and the egg, soft and creamy. He advises diners to skip restaurants that don’t have a teppanyaki grill, as those won’t give you an authentic okonomiyaki experience.

Seafood mix okonomiyaki (front), omu-cheese okonomiyaki (back) at Kasanegasane

Let’s go to Izakaya Shutendoji You’ll feel very much at home at this 35-year-old traditional izakaya. You can find over 150 different dishes and an extensive collection of sake and shochu. An especially unique dish served here is kowaishi sashimi. Chef-owner Narito Kai came up with a special way of deboning the tiny fish to remove the fine flesh without damaging it.

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HIROSHIMA

ft), Orizuru Tower (le The Atomic Bomb Dome (right)

Finding peace in

Hiroshima H

iroshima is a casualty of the atomic bomb, dropped on 6 August, 1945 during World War II. At Hiroshima Orizuru Tower, you can learn more about this sombre past and also be reminded that peace is the way forward. Orizuru Tower was completed in 2016 and is a point of pride for the city as many local talents were involved in the construction. The 50-metre tall tower overlooks the Atomic Bomb Dome, the only structure left standing after the blast. Today, the Dome remains a powerful symbol and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can enjoy a unique bird’s eye view of the Dome and the nearby Peace Memorial Park from the observatory space at the top of Orizuru Tower. The wood-decked roof observatory also offers a 360-degree view of modern-day Hiroshima.

The view from Orizuru Tower

Then make your way down to Orizuru Square on the 12th floor, where you can purchase origami paper to fold into orizuru, or paper cranes. You can drop these cranes into the Orizuru Wall, a glass panel by the side of the building. The goal is for the wall to be completely filled with paper cranes some day, as a gesture of peace.

Hiroshima’s lemony goodness Shukkeien Garden Literally meaning “shrink-scenery garden”, the garden was restored after the bombing. The landscape is thought to be a miniature version of West Lake in Hangzhou, China. Surrounding Takuei Pond in the centre are bridges and cottages, as well as mini mountains and valleys.

Hiroshima Castle The castle was originally built in 1589 and is surrounded by a moat for protection. The fivestorey main keep was rebuilt in 1958 after the structure was destroyed by the bomb. Head to the top of the keep for a panoramic view of the city.

Setouchi LemonFlavoured Ika-ten Ika-ten, or dried squid coated in batter and fried, is a popular bar snack. This version is flavoured with Setouchi lemon. Be warned — it is incredibly addictive!

Lemosco Made from Hiroshima lemons, these spicy and tangy sauces will give a zesty kick to all your favourite dishes. They go especially well with oysters and fried food.

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Getting to know

TSUYAMA CITY T

suyama city is located in Okayama Prefecture with the Chugoku Mountains to its north, the Kibikogen Highlands to its south, and the Yoshii River running through it. In the Edo era (1603-1868), Tsuyama was known as Soja, the ancient capital of the Mimasaka Province. Today, the city is most famous for being a castle town with Tsuyama Castle located high above the streets. Surrounding the castle is Kakuzen Park, which boasts thousands of cherry blossom trees, promising a gorgeous sight come sakura season in mid-April. A little-known fact about Tsuyama is that it’s the starting point for world-famous wagyu beef. The young calves that eventually end up as wagyu are raised here before being transported to Kobe and

Hida. The city also raises its own cattle and has a slaughterhouse so you’re assured of very fresh meat. In winter, the city often experiences snow, which is why a particularly satisfying speciality is sozuri gyunabe. This hotpot dish uses beef that’s been scraped off the bone, producing a deeply flavourful broth. You can enjoy this at restaurants within the city such as Bokkemon, a 20-seater casual eatery with a history of 16 years. Chef Takemasa Nagamatsu used to work in a slaughterhouse so he knows the best parts of the cow and the flavours they produce. He uses the offcuts — intestines, stomach, collagen and blood vessels — to create unique dishes using his own recipes. He serves over 47 different items on the menu and even has his own shochu label.

Sozuri gyunabe at Bokkemon

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T S U YA M A

Tasty

Tsuyama

Okonomiyaki Mie This eatery in Tsuyama city is famous for another delicacy — horumon udon, or fried udon with cow innards. According to chef Yasuhiro Ueyama, the secret is in the sauce, which the eatery sells pre-packaged. It’s made from soy sauce, miso, ginger, sesame oil, chilli peppers, onion, sugar and other ingredients. Wash your meal down with chu-hi, a sweet shochu beverage, served with tart Setouchi lemon.

Hayase Tofuten Tofu is the order of the day at this 22-seater eatery at the Joto conservation area. From deep fried to soft serve, you can enjoy this soy product in many forms. The restaurant only serves one set menu per day — arigatofu gozen — with individual dishes changing every couple of weeks. Savour deep fried tofu coated with bread crumbs, shiroae (soy bean husks), soy milk and soft tofu made from green soy beans.

Anami The speciality here is grilled amago, or trout, caught from the river. Each table has an irori, a sunken hearth used for warming the house and cooking. The set menu features eight dishes, including grilled amago; gohei mochi (grilled rice cake basted in miso paste); fresh tofu with miso; deep fried amago with vinegar, soy sauce and pickled onions; and tororo (smashed mountain yam with dashi and soy sauce). OISHII

Tsuyamaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sights

Tsuyama Castle

Built over 12 years between 1604 and 1616, the five-storey tall Tsuyama Castle once stood atop a hill overlooking the city. In 1873, during the Meiji Restoration, the central government decided to tear it down for material. Today, only the outer walls remain in original condition. In the 1900s, the surrounding area was transformed into Kakuzen Park, which now has thousands of sakura trees.

The Tsuyama Archives of Western Learning

Joto Conservation Area eum

onder Mus Tsuyama W

Tsuyama Wonder Museum This privately-owned museum was opened in 1963 and houses over 20,000 items, including 800 taxidermised animals. Most of the items were collected before the 1973 international CITES protection of wildlife treaty. You can see animals such as the snowy owl, the now-extinct Japanese river otter and the endangered Galapagos hawk.

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The Port Ar t& Tsuyama M Design useum

This area is a historical part of the city, preserved to retain the feel of an ancient castle town. Once part of the Izumo route, it was a way to reach the Izumo shrine. Many buildings have been left in their original state, some of which use burnt wood to repel water and insects. The area also houses two museums, one of which is the Port Art & Design Tsuyama Museum, a former bank thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been converted into an art gallery. The other is the Tsuyama Archives of Western Learning, which celebrates scholars from Tsuyama who were among the first in Japan to embrace Western studies. You can also visit the Tsuyama tourist centre for souvenirs and to get information on the city.

A CONVERSATION WITH

T S U YA M A

Unique experiences in Tsuyama SHINJI INABA CEO of Kuraya

Aba Forest Park

Aba Onsen

About an hour’s drive from Tsuyama city is the Aba Forest Park where you can experience playing in the snow. You can even try on traditional handmade snow shoes, known as kanjiki, which are made of wood from the mulberry tree. There are five chalets in the park, each able to house six people. Plans are afoot to introduce more activities for visitors, such as camping and barbecuing in the snow. There is also the Aba onsen nearby.

The fifth-generation CEO of this confectionery store is also the Vice President of the tourism association, as well as the B-1 Grand Prix food competition that judges “second grade” regional delicacies What are some of your favourite things to do in the city? I enjoy waking up early and walking around before anyone else is up. I love going up to Tsuyama Castle and looking down on the cherry blossom trees. Not many places can give you this experience.

As the CEO of a confectionery company, do you eat a lot of candy? Since I joined the company 30 years ago, I have definitely eaten a lot of candy. I like them all, but I enjoy seasonal sweets like strawberry mochi and Japanese pancakes with fresh cream and strawberries.

How is the tourism association planning to draw tourists?

Tsuyama Railroad Educational Museum Railway enthusiasts will love visiting this museum that’s housed in the old train depot. The fan-shaped depot, which was built in 1936, is the second largest semi-circular railway roundhouse in Japan. The museum was opened in 2016 and houses a collection of trains dating back to the era of steam trains. You can still see the black soot on the ceiling of the depot, speaking of its history.

We hold several events and festivals at Kakuzen Park. This year, we are celebrating the 20th anniversary of the moon gazing festival. We also have the cherry blossom festival in spring and the momiji festival in autumn. During these two events, we simultaneously hold a gourmet festival to showcase our speciality, beef horumon (a regional dish using offal).

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Souvenirs to remember

Tsuyama by SAKE

Don’t like sakes that are too sweet? Try the Kamoitsuha from TagoHonke brewery in the green bottle, it’s a Tsuyama dai ginjo that’s known to be dry. The one in brown is the Abanokaze from Nambashuzo brewery. This fruity and rich junmai-shu is made in Aba, using regular rice as it’s too cold there to grow sake rice.

DOUGHNUTS

Try local doughnuts from Wakana Patisserie, made using wheat flour from Tsuyama and eggs and milk from Okayama Prefecture. Enjoy three different flavours: sesame, mocha, sweet potato and plain.

HORUMON DON

This particular recipe for horumon rice was submitted to the B-1 Grand Prix food competition, so you can be assured of its great taste. Horumon curry is also available.

YOAN COFFEE

These Indonesian beans have been roasted in Tsuyama and are named after Dr Yoan Yudagawa, the man who came up with the Japanese name for coffee — kohi.

KURAYA ICHIMA

This confectionery shop is an institution in Tsuyama with 140 years of history. A particularly popular item is the Ichima, a castella cake with red bean paste.

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LISTINGS

F E AT U R E

Miyajima Kakiya 539 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima 739-0588 Tel: 0829-44-2152

Mametanuki 1133 Miyajima-cho, Hatuskaichi City, Hiroshima 739-0556 Tel: 0829-44-2747 Miyajima Brewery 459-2 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima 739-0588 Tel: 0829-40-2607

Shutendoji 1-4-25 Ootemachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima City, Hiroshima 730-0051 Tel: 082-247-9300

Tsuyama Bokkemon 28-1 Fushimi-cho, Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-0032 Tel: 0868-23-2994

Orizuru Tower 1-2-1 Ootemachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima City, Hiroshima 730-0051 Tel: 082-569-6803

Okonomiyaki Mie 441-5 Kamigawara, Tsuyama City, 708-0002 Tel: 0868-23-3972

Aba Onsen/Aba Koryukan 1200 Aba, Tsuyama City, Okayama 709-3951 Tel: 0868-46-7111

Hayase Tofuten 82 Higashishinmachi, Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-1114 Tel: 0868-35-3239

Momijido 448-1 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima 739-0588 Tel: 0829-44-2241 Itsukushima Shrine 1-1 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima 739-0588 Tel: 0829-44-2020

Tsuyama Wonder Museum 98-1 Sange, Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-0022 Tel: 0868-22-3518

Aba Forest Park/Aba Keiryu Chaya 3108-1 Aba, Tsuyama City, Okayama 709-3951 Tel: 0868-46-2077

Hiroshima Castle 21-1, Motomachi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima City, Hiroshima 730-0011 Tel: 082-221-7512

Tsuyama Railroad Educational Museum Ootani, Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-0882 Tel: 0868-35-3343

Shukukeien 2-2-11, Kaminobori-cho, Naka-ku Hiroshima City, Hiroshima 730-0014 Tel: 082-221-3620 Anami 1170 Aba, Tsuyama City, Okayama 709-3957 Tel: 0868-46-7060

Kuraya 77-7 Numa Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-0824 Tel: 0868-22-3181

Tsuyama Castle 135 Sange, Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-0022 Tel: 0868-22-3310 Port Art & Design Tsuyama Museum 823 Kawasaki, Tsuyama City, Okayama, 708-0841 Tel: 0868-20-1682

Ebisuya 556-3 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima 739-0588 Tel: 0829-44-1944 Hiroshima Kasanegasane 10-1, 6F, Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku, Hiroshima City, Hiroshima 732-0822 Tel: 082-568-7838

Setouchi Lemon Flavoured Ika-ten & Lemosco *available at souvenir shops and super markets

Tsuyama Archives of Western Learning 5 Nishishinmachi, Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-0833 Tel: 0868-23-3324

*Dial from Overseas to Japan +81 (Country code) Area code (omit first zero) Land phone number

Tsuyama Tourist Centre 97-1 Sange, Tsuyama City, Okayama 708-0022 Tel: 0868-22-3310 OISHII

NEWS

HIGH TEA the

Japanese way

Marina Mandarin Japanese Floral High Tea

Merchant Court Autumn in Hokkaido Afternoon Tea

NEW

ou’ve done your share of English afternoon tea sets with buttered scones and cucumber sandwiches, and eaten your way through every local high tea buffet. Now it’s time to try a Japanese-style afternoon tea. From Mondays to Fridays, Amara Singapore’s Tea Room serves its Japanese Afternoon Tea set ($45nett for two), which includes sweet and savoury Japanese snacks with TWG’s Kona Sencha. If you live for Instagram, head to Marina Mandarin’s Atrium Lounge daily for its Japanese Floral High Tea ($38++ per person). Snap foodporn-worthy photos of The Floral Elixir, a ruby chocolate sphere with fondant flowers, lavender ice cream, champagne, cranberry ice cream and Hokkaido lavender. You’ll also love the Blossom, an almond-crusted profiterole with sakura cream, as well as the Signature Snow Crab, Lobster Roll, Japanese plum tarts and the fusion scones with matcha cream and Hokkaido butter. Over at Crossroads Bar in Swissotel Merchant Court, things get seasonal with its Autumn in Hokkaido Afternoon tea ($42++ per person), available from 1 Sep to 30 Nov. Tuck into the Somen Noodle Salad with Hokkaido Scallop and Ikura, and the Hokkaido Unagi Open Faced Sandwich. Then have a taste of reinvented classic faves like Yuzu Citrus Scones, Japanese Style Lavender Swiss Rolls, Hokkaido Strawberry Éclairs and even Green Tea Egg Tarts.

Japanese restaurant openings in Singapore

Live teppanyaki at Don Don Donki Clarke Quay

a more concentrated, umami flavour. It is then cooked for over an hour with specially imported Rishiri kelp from around Hokkaido. The end product, a special broth free of MSG, is used in MAI’s dishes, from the lunch sets (priced from $29++) to the donabe, claypot rice that takes about 40 minutes to cook and serves four diners. Besides set lunches, MAI offers omakase lunches and dinners too. 46 Bukit Pasoh Road (www.bitejapan.sg/mai)

The supermarket chain’s newest outlet may have been in the (social media) news recently for its immensely popular peach smoothies. But here’s more food goss: The Clarke Quay store is also where you can visit its first live teppanyaki station. Chefs will grill and prep your hot dishes right before your eyes, so get ready to drool over the sights and sounds of chicken and beef steak sizzling in their juices.

TEXT PEARLYN THAM

Tokyo 2020 Japan exclusives

If you are headed to Japan before next year’s Summer Olympics, you can start shopping for Tokyo 2020 official licensed products that are sold only in the country for now. There are about 1,000 product types, including kids’ tees featuring the official mascot Miraitowa, plush toys, folding fans and tote bags with illustrations of eight of Japan’s most iconic anime characters like Astro Boy, Sailor Moon and Yo-kai Watch. For the full list of stores, visit tokyo2020shop. jp/contents/official_shop.

Dried bonito wholesaler opens new restaurant

In Japanese cuisine, dashi is the basic soup stock used in many dishes, from miso soup to oden stews. It is generally made of dried bonito flakes, also known as katsuobushi, and kelp. Leveraging on its expertise, established dried bonito wholesaler Marusaya has opened MAI by Dashi Master Marusaya, a restaurant that uses all-natural dashi on its menu. MAI’s katsuobushi is made from skipjack tuna that has been dried and fermented for more than two years (regular katsuobushi is fermented over just one year) so expect

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A S A H I K AWA A D V E R TO R I A L

CRAFTING EXCELLENCE Conde House has become Japan’s top furniture retailer, building a solid reputation as a maker of simple but sophisticated

tanding tall among the furniture manufacturers in Asahikawa

is Conde House, which celebrated its 50th anniversary last year. The company is the leading furniture retailer in Japan and

boasts 12 stores in major cities such as Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka and Sapporo. It also has dealerships in several countries and two directly owned showrooms in the United States and Germany. It employs 280 staff, 170 of whom work at its three factories, and the rest at its office and shops. In its early days, the company’s founder Minoru Nagahara had the foresight to produce chairs and dining tables when most other

designs that showcase

furniture makers were manufacturing tansu (traditional Japanese

the beauty and quality of

design, partnering with designers, both local and international, to

Asahikawa wood.

wooden chests). Conde House was among the first to focus on create sophisticated products with minimal materials. Designers love to collaborate with the company because they are assured that it will make high-quality products out of their designs. German designer Michael Schneider, who works with Conde House on the Ten series, appreciates the company’s reliability and aggressiveness in supporting the sales of its products. “I love working with Conde House because they see problems as challenges. They’re always looking for something different but feasible.” Conde House is committed to sustainability. Every year for the past 20 years, its staff, together with those from other Asahikawa furniture makers, plant trees to give back what it has taken. Its designs make the most of every tree. The Ippongi collection, for example, makes use of wood that has many cracks and knots and is normally only used for floors and walls. But Nagahara started the collection more than 20 years ago, saying that such wood has strong character

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A S A H I K AWA A D V E R TO R I A L

Above: Various furniture concepts by Conde House at its showroom in Asahikawa

A furniture display on the ground floor of the Conde House building in Asahikawa

Right: The Barca Lounge Chair, which won the best prize at the 2008 International Furniture Design Fair in Asahikawa Below right: The Splinter Chair, the result of a collaboration with Japanese design studio Nendo Bottom: Kotan chairs on show at the Conde House building

and should be cherished. Similarly, the company makes use of an efficient production process. Instead of carving curved edges from huge blocks of wood and throwing away the excess, the process involves splitting small blocks of wood into multiple strips, gluing them and then applying heat and pressure to bend the pieces. Splitting up the wood makes it easier to bend and is more stable than bending one big piece. The process is time-consuming, but cost effective. The furniture giant tries to use the best local materials whenever possible, but because of its insistence on using materials of the highest quality, imports leather from Sweden and fabric from Italy. It supplements its oak and ash requirements from US stocks, and also buys walnut from the country as it is not available in Asahikawa. The high quality of Conde Houseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products is due to its smart combination of the latest machines and human expertise. Backing the designers are the engineers in the product development team, who prepare drawings, conduct strength tests and decide on the kind of wood to use. The company also maintains strict standards. Although its supplier Showa Lumber dries the lumber before handing it over to Conde House, the furniture maker also houses several kilns in its factory to ensure the woodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s moisture rate is kept at 6 to 7 percent. With the population declining in Japan, Conde House is now turning towards the contract market, supplying furniture to restaurants, hotels and libraries, as well as architects and interior designers. It also plans to have more dealerships to add to its current nine in Korea, Taiwan, China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia, India, Thailand and the Philippines. In fact, it is already negotiating plans to have a dealership each in Indonesia and New Zealand by the end of this year.

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How did you end up in the business? I’ve always wanted to pursue something related to design. But it was only as a student doing part-time work delivering furniture for Conde House that I became interested in interior design. The smiles on the faces of customers as they received their furniture — the finishing touch to their new homes — were priceless to me.

TETSUYA FUJITA PRESIDENT OF CONDE HOUSE A familiar face at store openings in Japan and abroad, this long-serving employee is using his design background and keen marketing sense to promote the company and its products.

What has motivated you to work at Conde House for 38 years? I’ve never thought of changing my career or working for other furniture manufacturers because I’ve never found any more attractive than Conde House. In Japan, lifetime employment is very common. Working in management means doing a wide variety of things, so it’s very interesting. I’m so busy that there is no time to think about changing careers or working for other companies. What is so special about Conde House? We are the top furniture manufacturer in Japan and one of the leading furniture makers overseas. Our people are highly skilled, and we use the latest technology, which translates into

products of top quality. Conde House has its own forest in nearby Higashikawa. What’s the thinking behind that? We started to plant trees more than 20 years ago. Every year, our staff and those from other furniture makers plant 5,000 trees. It’s our way of giving back to nature and to the city of Asahikawa. We also want to show that we are a company that appreciates nature because without nature, we cannot make anything. What lies ahead for Conde House? Within five years, I would like to have more dealers in overseas markets such as the Middle East, Indonesia, Vietnam, Malaysia and New Zealand. I want Conde House to not only have a presence in more countries, but to increase the number of outlets in each country. In India, we only have one dealership in Bengaluru, but we’d like to have shops in other major cities like Delhi, Mumbai and so on. In the US, we have our own store in San Francisco, but there are also many other major cities. We would like to have more outlets and dealerships.

LEADING T H E W AY Tell me about yourself and how you started at Conde House. Since I was a child, I’ve always liked making things like plastic models, so I wanted to become either a designer, craftsman or engineer. In college, I decided to study industrial design because at that time, manufacturing cars and appliances had kick-started in Japan. In 1976, I joined Conde House as a factory worker after graduation. I was making furniture parts and it was fun. About two years later, I moved to the design department and in 1980, I was tasked to go to the US to cultivate the market there. You’re also the president of Conde House USA. Can you tell me about your experience there? It has not been easy. Doing business in the US is very expensive. And with the tax system and regulations, it has become complex. But we’re doing

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okay now and I’m optimistic. Unlike Japan, the US economy is strong and growing at 2 to 3 percent every year, so the US market is a worthwhile target. Moreover, the Japanese market is shrinking because of falling birth rates. So the Asian market and the US market will be more important to us in the next few years. Conde House collaborates with many designers. How do you choose who to work with? The Asahikawa International Design Fair is held every three years, and it allows us to meet many designers. Sometimes we approach the designers, but some designers approach us too. The most important thing to us is design philosophy. And what would fit in with Conde House is simple, natural yet elegant. We always want to make products of the highest quality with moderate prices.

YUKI WATANABE CHAIRMAN OF CONDE HOUSE Having been with the company for 43 years, this Hokkaido native has seen his fair share of ups and downs in the furniture market. But he remains optimistic about taking Conde House forward and confident about the quality of its products.

A S A H I K AWA A D V E R TO R I A L

C R E AT I V E C O L L A B O R AT O R S No company can achieve success without a network of trusted suppliers and partners. Here are some of the firms that Conde House regularly works with. SHOWA LUMBER Lending support to the biggest furniture retailer in Japan is Showa Lumber, arguably the biggest lumber mill in Japan. With 270 people on its payroll and an office overseas in Dalian, China, it supplies various types of hardwood to Conde House such as oak, ash and walnut, which the furniture maker uses to make its products.

SOTOZAKI KOUSAKUSYO With just 12 employees and a factory space of 5,000 square metres, Sotozaki Kousakusyo may not look hugely impressive. But this metalworks company has amassed a reputation for being dependable and forward-thinking since it was established in 1951. In fact, the company was one of the first of its kind in Asahikawa to use a powder coating for the steel and aluminium that it works with. It takes on all aspects of metal processing, from cutting and bending to powder coating and assembly.

HIRATA

ASAHIKAWA MEIMOKU This firm is known for its ability to process veneers that are as thin as 0.2 millimetres. You could say that the business is in the blood of the owner Satoshi Mikami, as his father had also owned and run a veneer processing plant. Mikami set up his own firm in 2000 after his father died, and eventually secured a contract with Conde House. Asahikawa Meimoku also uses a hypoallergenic glue for its veneer strips, as specified by Conde House. For this and other reasons, the company and Conde House have an enduring and fruitful partnership today.

Industrial painting company Hirata is distinguished by its detailed techniques and high-grade polyutherane paint. Its founder Kaoru Hirata was working as an industrial painter in 1985, when he decided to launch his own company after realising that there was a market for people like him to contribute to Asahikawaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growing furniture production industry.

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F L AV O U R S

RICH pickings

Eat your way through autumn during Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bountiful season of food and feasting. LAND

Satsuma imo is harvested at maximum sweetness in autumn

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Best eaten: Roasted With more than a hundred different varieties all over Japan, satsuma imo is harvested at its peak sugar level in autumn. One of the most common varieties has red skin and yellow flesh in mainland Japan, while the purple version is found on the islands of Okinawa. Whichever variety you choose, roasted sweet potato (yaki imo) is Japanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular snack when the weather turns chilly. Simply eat yaki imo on its own to enjoy its natural creaminess, or with a dollop of butter and some salt and pepper to enhance its sweetness. The best way to get your hands on these hot morsels is from a passing yaki imo truck, which announces its arrival with a tinkling jingle and the heavenly smell of the roasted tuber.

TEXT SUZANNE SNG PHOTOS 123RF

Satsuma imo (sweet potato)

F L AV O U R S

Kuri (Japanese chestnut) Best eaten: Roasted Nothing beats the smell of chestnuts roasting on the street corner on a nippy day. Kuri are popular in roasted form as street food from autumn all the way till winter. They are also cooked together with rice and used to make both traditional Japanese sweets (wagashi) and Western desserts. Even snack brands such as Kit Kat and Pocky have jumped on the chestnut wagon and come up with limited-edition seasonal flavours. Do not miss the wagashi known as kuri-manju, which is a sinfully delicious bun with an entire steamed chestnut inside.

Kuri is a popular flavour for Western desserts and Japanese sweets Kuri

Matsutake Best eaten: Grilled or steamed You can call this a “magic” mushroom. The matsutake mushroom grows only in autumn and only on roots of pine trees, and costs up to US$1,000 (S$1,390) per kilogram for the highest grade at the beginning of the season. This rare and expensive shroom is very popular and coveted for its earthy flavour, meaty texture and rich umami. When cooked, it gives off a pleasant, woody pine scent. It is the star ingredient in a special autumnal soup with clear dashi broth, but it can also be savoured grilled, steamed with rice or cooked in chawanmushi.

Matsutake mushrooms grow only in autumn and only on pine tree roots

Kaki (persimmon) Best eaten: Raw It is hard to avoid kaki in autumn as it is the time of the year when the juicy, succulent fruit is ripe for harvest. You can see the fluorescent orange orbs hanging from trees or strung up to dry. There are two varieties of persimmon — fuyu, which is eaten while hard and crisp, and hachiya, which is best when ripened to a jelly-like consistency. The hachiya persimmon is also traditionally the variety that is dried, which results in a dense, intensely sweet treat that can be relished long after autumn has passed.

The best way to eat a juicy kaki is to cut it open and scoop out the flesh with a spoon OISHII

F L AV O U R S

Shinmai (new rice) Best eaten: Cooked with chestnuts or mushrooms Rice plays an important role in Japanese society and embodies the essence of its culture. The word “gohan” not only refers to cooked rice, but also to a meal. The first harvest of rice in autumn, called “shinmai”, is considered special and has a completely different taste compared with older rice. Softer and sweeter, new rice is processed and sold in the same year it is harvested. After December, it loses its “new” status and is no longer sold. Have a bowl of the naturally sweet rice with chestnuts or matsutake mushrooms while they are in season at the same time for a truly autumnal delight.

SEA

Sanma (Pacific saury) Best eaten: Grilled with salt Sanma is most delicious and fatty in autumn. Due to that and how the silver-skinned fish looks like a knife, its name in kanji means “autumn knife fish”. With a taste not unlike herring or sardine, sanma is usually grilled with salt until the skin browns and blisters. It is enjoyed whole, with fans relishing the bitter taste of its guts. The most popular way to feast on this fish is to start with the crispy skin, then squirt some lemon juice on the flesh and have it with daikon (Japanese radish) and soya sauce. Together with shinmai (new rice) and miso soup, it makes for the quintessential autumn meal.

Shinmai is softer and sweeter than ordinary rice

Saba (mackerel) Best eaten: Stewed in miso Like the sanma, saba is in its prime when caught in autumn as it has plumped up for the colder weather and its flesh is silky smooth and luscious. The freshest catch can be eaten raw. But as the fish goes bad quickly, it is also frequently pickled, cured, braised or grilled with salt. One favourite home-style dish is saba misoni — saba stewed in miso — which makes for a warm, comforting meal as the weather turns crisp.

Sanma is also known as the “autumn knife fish”, as it resembles a knife and is best in autumn

Saba can be eaten raw, but is also frequently pickled, cured, braised or grilled with salt

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F L AV O U R S Shishamo is prized for the tiny eggs that fill its body

Shishamo (smelt fish) Best eaten: Whole and grilled For just two weeks in autumn, shishamo, or literally â&#x20AC;&#x153;willow leaf fishâ&#x20AC;? can be eaten raw, making it one of the most prized catches of the season. Native to Japan, the finger-sized fish can only be found along the Pacific coast of Hokkaido and shishamo fishing is allowed only in October and November. It is usually grilled and eaten whole, together with its delicate bones, head and tail. Tiny eggs fill the entire fish with a pleasant grainy texture and light sweetness, making it a sought-after delicacy.

Tiny shirasu can be eaten raw, boiled or dried

Shirasu (whitebait) Best eaten: Raw, as a garnish These baby anchovies or sardines are best eaten in autumn, when their tiny white bodies become plump, juicy and tender as they put on fat for winter. Remarkably unfishy in taste, with a delicate flavour of the ocean, shirasu can be eaten raw, boiled or dried. Spoonfuls of these raw little fishies are eaten as a salad with ponzu or heaped on top of rice with ginger, spring onions, nori, raw egg, soya sauce and wasabi. Boiled and dried shirasu are added to all kinds of dishes, such as onigiri (rice balls) and ramen, even to Japanese-style pizzas and pastas, to add a salty, umami kick.

Ise ebi (Japanese spiny lobster) Best eaten: As sashimi One of the most precious gifts of the sea, the Ise ebi is named after the Ise Bay, where it is caught in huge quantities. The peak season for this crustacean is from October to January, when its almost-transparent meat is especially firm and sweet, and dishes starring this luxurious seafood can be found on the menus of upmarket restaurants. At its freshest, it is served as sashimi, but is also delicious steamed in sake or grilled teppanyaki-style before your eyes. Often, it is served with its ornamental, bright-red shell, making for a truly Instagram-worthy snap.

Ise ebi boasts especially firm and sweet meat in autumn

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MASTERS

MODERN CLASSICS Reinvention is the spirit of modern Japanese cuisine. Three forward-thinking chefs present Japanese favourites in a new light.

KOMA

CHI KINJO

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apanese chefs are known to hone their culinary expertise over decades. Everything from preparation to presentation is an art, performed with ritualistic consistency. However, once they have these traditional techniques down pat, many chefs dedicate the latter half of their career to breaking rules and pushing boundaries. This is modern Japanese cuisine, a new culinary wave taking over Japan, Singapore and the rest of the world. Driven by a breed of chefs who are also selfprofessed travellers, art lovers, designers and global citizens, the trend has brought new sensibilities to timeless classics. Japanese ingredients are prepared with new culinary techniques, and foreign ingredients are prepared with classical Japanese techniques. Sometimes, Japanese and foreign ingredients are cleverly combined. Experimental but not irreverent, the emphasis in modern Japanese cuisine is respect for both the ingredients and the character of the dish. In Singapore, where new Japanese restaurants are sprouting up every other week, this brings an unexpected freshness to the cuisine. Beyond that, it gives diners a deeper appreciation for the dish and its ingredients and leads them on a journey of discovery. Leading the charge are three new restaurants â&#x20AC;&#x201D; JYPSY founded by the PS Gourmet Group in July last year, Chi Kinjo opened by the Coterie Concepts group in January this year, as well as KOMA launched by the TAO Group this July. Globetrotters will appreciate the nod to international favourites such as tacos and granitas, a Sicilian semi-frozen dessert. The eco-conscious will notice the use of familiar ingredients such as turmeric and coconut milk that connect the restaurant to its locality. Created by chefs with a strong foundation in traditional Japanese cuisine, each dish strives to achieve the delicate balance that Japanese cuisine is known for.

TEXT ANNIE TAN PHOTOGRAPHY PETER LEE

JYPSY

MASTERS

KUNIHIRO MOROI Executive Chef, KOMA

OMA’s Executive Chef Kunihiro Moroi spent 28 years perfecting his art, and nearly as many years globetrotting. In 1991, the Kyoto-born chef began his culinary journey at a renowned ryotei or luxurious traditional restaurant in Kanazawa. This was followed by a stint in Osaka. Later, he traversed the world, delighting diners from kitchens in Kuala Lumpur, Chongqing, Seattle, Amman, and a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Macau, with dishes full of culinary creativity. From sushi to sashimi, tempura and robata, his rich Japanese heritage and global sensibilities suffuse each creation. Now within the lavish modern setting of KOMA, featuring a traditional Japanese footbridge, a towering 20-faced Japanese bell and iconic orange arches that are already an Instagram favourite, his dishes aptly present the many expressions of modern Japanese cuisine.

TOP “Get the basics right. Learning how the

tip

traditional dish is prepared gives you a good foundation to create a modern interpretation of it.”

Coconut milk, lemongrass and chive oil invigorate KOMA’s Lobster Salad (below) with Southeast Asian nuances, while soy butter sauce brings out the natural sweetness of the Hokkaido scallop (bottom right)

How did you discover your calling?

I discovered a passion for cooking at five years old. My grandfather ran a tempura restaurant in Kyoto, where I picked up the basics of cooking. I learnt how to sharpen Japanese knives, handle and cut fish and vegetables, and prepare tempura. What are your greatest culinary inspirations?

My creations combine two of my passions — food and travel. Trying different types of cuisines and speaking with chefs during my travels inspire me. My other hobbies, such as brushstroke penmanship, tea ceremony, the art of flower arrangement and fishing also inspire me when creating new dishes. How does travel influence your creations?

I have incorporated flavours and ingredients that are found across Southeast Asia in some of my dishes. For example, our barbecued chicken dish is prepared with a spicy marinade inspired by nasi lemak, and our Lobster Salad features coconut milk, lemongrass and Thai fish sauce. What is unique about your choice of ingredients?

About 80 percent of our ingredients come from Japan, some of which are seasonal. For instance, we use A5 wagyu beef aged in the snow to develop a more intense flavour and taste, yielding rich marbling. What makes modern Japanese cuisine modern?

It is about allowing someone to experience a familiar dish in a new way, or to view a dish in a new light, either by playing around with new flavours or textures, or presenting it in a totally different manner.

KOMA is at #B1-67 Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Ave. Tel: 6688 8690

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MASTERS

TOP “It’s okay to experiment

tip

TAKASHIMA OSAMU Chef, JYPSY

but remember to respect the ingredients.”

guacamole sauce, dashi soy sauce and tempura seaweed taco. It took us quite a long time to conduct R&D for this dish. We made the nori shells in-house and it took us some time to get the perfect texture, taste and shape without compromising the presentation of the dish. Some items draw inspiration from traditional Japanese dishes. Nest of Fries was inspired by the traditional Japanese kakiage, which is made of tempura vegetables, as well as PS. Cafe’s signature truffle fries. Are there any dishes with sentimental value for you?

f you ask Chef Takashima Osamu, the one thing missing in Singapore’s bevy of Japanese restaurants is a sense of playfulness. “Japanese restaurants in Singapore tend to be either very family-oriented or skewed towards fine dining,” he laments. JYPSY, which he helms, aims to inject an element of youthfulness, fun and free-spiritedness into Japanese dining. Its offerings of rice bowls, Japanesestyle tapas and bespoke cocktails, as well as its Japanese coastal town vibe are decidedly less stuffy and more casual. Born in Osaka, Chef Taka rose to become head chef at the age of 26, and honed his craft in Japan and Sydney before arriving at our shores. His unique offerings such as Salmon Tacos, Udon Goreng, Watermelon Granita and Turmeric Pisco Sour creatively combine premium Japanese with locally sourced ingredients.

The Obasan Sticky Beef Sliders is my mother’s recipe and reminds me of my childhood in Osaka. How do you source for ingredients?

We take our produce very seriously— they are primarily sourced from Japan.

Our oysters are from Hyogo, near Osaka, our tuna is from Japan, and the rice in our Smokey Unagi Fried Rice is a premium Hokkaido varietal. We use fresh wasabi paste instead of artificial wasabi powder offered by most local Japanese restaurants as well. Our selection of sashimi is also paired with locally sourced ingredients. Why is modern Japanese a trend in Singapore?

Japanese cuisine has been in Singapore for the last few decades but the same options have been available for the longest time. Singapore is a melting pot of cultures where people are well travelled and more adventurous with food. Modern interpretations are created today because of the need for a new experience — something fresh and creative.

What influenced your menu at JYPSY?

I am trained in both authentic Japanese cuisine and modern concepts and this menu draws on my background and plays to both of these strengths. These dishes also reflect changes in cooking techniques. Tell us a little more about your contemporary creations.

Our most popular dish is the JYPSY Salmon Tacos, featuring king salmon sashimi, fresh wasabi, salsa sauce,

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JYPSY’s Salmon Tacos (above) update the Mexican staple with crisp nori seaweed shells, while the Yuzu Tofu Cheesecake (left) ends the meal on a light yet satisfying note JYPSY is at 38A Martin Rd #01-02. Tel: 6708 9288

MASTERS

hi Kinjo was designed to look like a back-alley izakaya set in an era of chaos in Kyoto, with a hidden bar harbouring a secret love story. The most recent of the four concept bars by the Coterie Concepts group, it elevates storytelling into an integral aspect of the dining experience. No wonder — the group’s co-founder and chief operating officer Sandra Sim is not just a former restauranteur in Shanghai, she has a graphic design background. She parlays her design expertise in her modern Japanese creations and interior design, weaving the restaurant’s back story and personality into every facet of the experience. Think: Edgy experimentation with unexpected flavours and techniques in a menu that she helped to create.

The Hamachi Carpaccio (below) at Chi Kinjo trades wasabi for a touch of truffle, while Crouching Tiger Maki Roll (below right) features sakura ebi, steamed prawn and tiger prawn tempura for a contrast in textures

What inspired the creation of this restaurant?

The idea stems from painting traditional Asian cuisine in a different, modernised picture. At other Japanese restaurants, the presentation is always as expected — you get the usual izakaya classics, sushi and sashimi. We are about creating a narrative and experience, as well as a space where diners can extend their journey with us. On the surface, it is a

TOP “Understand the character and

tip

SANDRA SIM Co-founder, CHI KINJO

Chi Kinjo is at 29 Stanley Street. Tel: 6260 5284

flavour of a dish, and identify elements that can be substituted with ingredients not common in Japanese cuisine.”

casual izakaya. But a short flight of stairs leads down into a dimly lit drinking den that exudes a sense of danger and fun.

They would be the Hamachi Carpaccio and Salmon Ceviche, Italian and Peruvian classics prepared with Japanese methods.

Describe your menu.

How adventurous are Singaporean diners

We present a fun take on Japanese cuisine, without losing the essence and integrity of the ingredients. Some examples include the use of “western” ingredients such as the Hamachi Carpaccio with truffle and dill. We also play with different textures as seen in our Crouching Tiger Roll with three types of prawns — sakura ebi, steamed prawns and tempura. We use a mix of locally sourced ingredients and Japan imports such as seafood and rice.

when it comes to Japanese food?

What are your most popular dishes?

They tend to be familiar with the usual fare but most are not adventurous enough to try dishes such as Tako-Wasabi (raw octopus with wasabi), chicken cartilage, fish cheeks and head sashimi. How would you define modern Japanese cuisine?

It means adopting a different approach to preparing a dish, be it in terms of composition of ingredients or preparation. The environment and design language of the space plays a part too.

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RECIPE

World of WAGYU AYA OSADA

RECIPES AND PHOTOS AYA OSADA TRANSLATION CHISATO MIYAMORI EDITED BY DENYSE YEO

In this second instalment of our four-part series on essential Japanese ingredients, cooking researcher and nutritionist Aya Osada shares why wagyu is so coveted.

hanks to the booming popularity of Japanese food, wagyu is famous all over the world. Simply meaning “Japanese beef”, wagyu is prized by gourmets for its excellent quality: quality of marbling fat, bright red colour, firm and smooth texture, and glossy lustre. The rich marbling of wagyu in particular results in a high-grade beef that is tender and melts in your mouth. The taste of wagyu is just as delicate and rich, with sweet and umami flavours. These delicious characteristics are wagyu’s biggest draws, and it is no wonder that wagyu is loved by the Japanese, as well as foodies from around the world. The production of wagyu in Japan follows strict quality controls. Only four breeds of cattle are recognised as wagyu: Japanese Black (Kuroge), Japanese Brown (Akage), Japanese Polled (Mukaku) and Japanese Shorthorn (Nihon Tankaku). These breeds emerged by crossbreeding native Japanese cattle with imported western cattle in the late 19th and 20th centuries. It is this genetic factor that gives wagyu its distinctive, world-famous marbling. The most common wagyu breed is Japanese Black, which accounts for 90 percent of all wagyu produced in Japan and is raised across the country. The rarest is Japanese Polled, of which

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only about 100 cattle remain, in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Japanese Brown is raised in Kumamoto and Kochi Prefectures, while Japanese Shorthorn is bred in Hokkaido and the Tohoku region. Famous wagyu brands and production areas include Kobe beef from Hyogo Prefecture, Matsusaka beef from Mie Prefecture, Yonezawa beef from Yamagata Prefecture, Hida beef from Gifu Prefecture and Miyazaki beef from Miyazaki Prefecture. These are all varieties of Japanese Black cattle that have been bred according to each area’s production and certification standards. In general, the taste of beef varies according to the cut and cooking method. The highest grade of beef and the rarest of cuts is filet mignon, which is best served as steak. If you prefer a moderately fatty cut, choose sirloin. Sirloin and chuck eye are often used in high-end Japanese cuisines, such as shabu shabu and sukiyaki. Thinly sliced beef is often used in home cooking, such as nikujaga (beef with potatoes) and stir-fried dishes. Unlike ordinary beef, premium wagyu from Japan is going to be expensive, even if it is cubed or sliced. But with its rich taste and high-grade cuts, purebred wagyu lets you enjoy fine flavours that cannot be found in other varieties of beef such as Holstein, Angus or hybrid breeds.

RECIPE

WAGYU STEAK

SUKIYAKI

Grilling wagyu results in meat that is slightly crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside, thanks to its firm texture and even marbling. Its sweet, fatty taste is beautifully enhanced by the high-quality black pepper easily found in Sarawak, Malaysia. In Japan, it is common to eat wagyu with a sprinkling of natural salt and a dab of wasabi.

This is a feast for when the family is gathered around the Japanese dinner table. Various ingredients are used, depending on the household. In some regions, it is customary to have sukiyaki at the end of the year.

INGREDIENTS (Serves 2) Wagyu fillet, thickly sliced (about 1cm) Beef tallow, as required Salt and pepper, to season Freshly ground black pepper, to serve Freshly grated wasabi, to serve *Wasabi is most delicious when freshly grated, so rub it in just before eating. *The pepper from Sarawak, Malaysia is spicy and a good match.

METHOD 1. Ensure that the wagyu fillet is brought to room temperature before cooking. Sprinkle 0.8 percent of the fillet’s weight in salt and pepper over the meat. 2. Heat beef tallow in the frying pan and let the wagyu fillet brown on both sides. Turn over only once. 3. When the meat is cooked to your liking, take the pan off the heat. Wrap the meat in aluminium foil to let the juices settle. 4. Once cooled, cut the meat into bite-size pieces and serve on a plate.

INGREDIENTS (Serves 2)

MIXTURE A INGREDIENTS

200g beef loin (wagyu or other beef), thinly sliced

100ml sake

Beef tallow, as required 1 Japanese leek, sliced diagonally into 3–4cm pieces

100ml mirin 100ml soya sauce 30g granulated sugar

½ onion, sliced thinly 4 shiitake mushrooms, stems cut off 100g boiled konjac noodles, cut into bite-size pieces 10 snow peas (mangetout), trimmed 100g firm tofu, cut into 3cm cubes 1 egg, raw METHOD 1. For Mixture A, combine the sake and mirin in a pot and boil over high heat. Reduce heat, then add the soya sauce and granulated sugar. When the sugar has melted, turn off the heat. 2. Fry the sliced sirloin on both sides quickly. Add a little of Mixture A to taste. 3. Add the mushrooms, leek, onion, noodles, snow peas and tofu to the pan. Then add the remaining Mixture A and simmer for a few minutes. 4. Serve with the beaten egg on the side. Dip the beef into the egg, eat and enjoy!

Sugimoto restaurant is directly managed by a famous Japanese butcher with a long tradition. Enjoy premium wagyu steak, sukiyaki and shabu shabu. Find out more about Sugimoto at www.oniku-sugimoto.com. OISHII

J A PA N F O O D E X P O R T FA I R

Flavours of

YAMAGUCHI

eauti-

fb t tastes o e differen Savour th cture. fe re P i uch ful Yamag

Yamaguchi Prefecture

ituated on the western tip of Honshu, Yamaguchi is surrounded on three sides by the ocean. Since ancient times, the prefecture has enjoyed prosperous interactions with other parts of Asia and adopted much of its culture from the mainland. As a result, Yamaguchi has come to be known as the country’s “Western Capital”, playing a major role in the culture, industry and history of Japan. With a relatively mild and comfortable climate throughout the four seasons, Yamaguchi offers visitors beautiful scenery. Stunning views abound, from the famous Tsunoshima Bridge and Akiyoshido cave to Kintaikyo Bridge and Motonosumi Shrine. For an unforgettable hot spring experience, head to Yuda Onsen, where the steaming waters are said to hydrate the skin and relax the soul. Not forgetting the fresh, delicious food, which you can feast on to your heart’s content. Yamaguchi is especially renowned for its seafood like pufferfish and mouth-watering local sake. We hope to spread the breathtaking charms of Yamaguchi, to inspire you to experience them for yourselves.

OISHII

FIND US AT FOOD JAPAN 2019 31 October, 1 and 2 November 2019, Suntec Singapore MAEDA KAISAN CO LTD

UOKEN CO LTD

4 -13-33 Nishiyama cho Hikojima Shimonoseki city http://www.maeda.ne.jp/

1033, Senzaki Nagato City http://uoken.biz/

Mentaiko, or walleye pollack roe, is a popular ingredient in Japan, used in pasta, bread and sushi. MAEDA KAISAN is a long-standing mentaiko manufacturer in Yamaguchi Prefecture’s Shimonoseki City, the birthplace of mentaiko. Our products do not appear on the open market often, because 80 per cent of them are for business use, such as fish markets and restaurants. However, as a pioneer of spicy mentaiko and the first specialised mentaiko manufacturer in Japan, we produce the best-tasting and highest-quality spicy mentaiko. For many people, our mentaiko was the first they ever tried and still enjoy to this day.

For 20 years, the founder of UOKEN had been working at his family’s seafood processing business in Wakayama Prefecture. In 2008, he decided to start his own business and pursue his own way of processing seafood. He focused his manufacturing in the Kitaura region of Yamaguchi Prefecture, where he was fascinated by the abundance and freshness of fish. Today, UOKEN produces dried fish, fried fish and other types of processed seafood. The UOKEN style is to extract the purity of the ingredient’s taste without using additives as much as possible and to make products by hand more than anything else.

OKAZAKI SHUZOJYO CO LTD

YACHIYO SHUZO

464-1 Kawakami Hagi City https://www.chomonkyo.com/

3306 Kibeshimo Ooaza Hagi City https://www.yachiyo-shuzo.com/

The sake brewery Okazaki Shuzojyo is famous for its Chomonkyo brand of sake, named after the beautiful gorge on the upper reaches of Abu-gawa River in northern Yamaguchi Prefecture. Okazaki Shuzojyo once brewed its sake close to this stunning location but moved to its present setting along the Abugawa River in 1970 because of dam construction. Chomonkyo sake is available as Yamada Nishiki and Saito-no-Shizuku, two sake rice varieties that are representative of Yamaguchi Prefecture.

During spring, Yachiyo Shuzo’s sake brewing begins with preparations for growing seedlings. In autumn, the sake rice Yamada Nishiki is harvested, and from November, sake is brewed in the extreme cold. For over 20 years, we have been cultivating sake rice using the mineral-rich water of Mt Daishoyama. We strive for agricultural consistency throughout the process, from rice making to sake brewing. We cherish the concept of “terroir”, made up of the weather, climate and environment, and its importance in creating our sake. We will continue innovating to preserve this long-held Japanese tradition.

UBE KAMABOKO CO LTD

HEALTHY LIFE CO LTD

697-20 Kawakami Ooaza Ube city https://www.ubekama.co.jp/

8-10 Ohgimachi-Chofu Shimonoseki City http://oem-healthylife.com/

Ube Kamaboko makes delicious and healthy kamaboko (traditional Japanese fish cake), with expert techniques and using the fish, salt and mineral-rich water found in Yamaguchi Prefecture. Besides inheriting this rich food heritage of Japan, Ube Kamaboko has also developed new styles of kamaboko with untiring originality, invention and enthusiasm. Kezuri Kamaboko is thinly sliced kamaboko, made only with high-grade cod and manufactured using original methods. This kamaboko does not contain any starch or preservatives, is full of flavour and has a light and airy texture.

Healthy Life produces and markets various kind of health teas. For this exhibition, we have brought in three popular assortments of health teas. Sales continue to grow, with about 20,000 packages sold a month. The orange assortment is said to increase metabolism, the green version helps to block fat and sugar intake, and the pink one is said to effectively relieve dry, rough skin. Ingredients differ from one to the other.

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P O S T C A R D F R O M J A PA N

Extremely loud, incredibly close

Nagoya Castle and the Honmaru Goten Palace

The festival takes place twice a year. The first in late September is the more famous of the two and features 34 Danjiri floats. This main event is held on the grounds of Kishiwada Castle, with the route leading from the castle down to the coast. The mid-October event has 46 Danjiri floats in action and centres in and around the city’s mountainous suburbs. If you can’t make it to the actual festival, the Danjiri Kaikan exhibition hall near the rebuilt castle is a small museum outlining the festival’s history and traditions. Here, you’ll see the oldest remaining Danjiri float on display, surrounded by festival costumes, gorgeous float carvings and other fascinating artefacts. Not far from the Kansai International Airport, Kishiwada’s Danjiri Festival is a traditional show of strength, endurance, daring and, importantly, of traditional Japanese community bonding. It’s a wild side of Japan that is rarely seen but can be enjoyed by anyone looking for a little excitement.

Chris Glenn is an Australia-born, Nagoya-based radio DJ, TV presenter, writer and 27-year resident of Japan. He specialises in samurai history and culture, and is the Nagoya Tourism, Culture & Exchange Special Ambassador, as well as the Sekigahara Battlefield Ambassador.

OISHII

Kiyono Okagawa (Instagram @kkkiyofude) is a Tokyo artist and Tsutefude lecturer who created this calligraphy artwork of the Kishiwada Danjiri Festival specially for OISHII. Tsutefude is a calligraphy technique believed to convey positive messages.

PHOTOS KISHIWADA CITY

he castle town of Kishiwada City in Osaka Prefecture is usually tranquil, famed for its many ancient tumuli (burial mounds) and its iconic Kishiwada Castle keep, dating back to 1585. In late September, and again in mid-October every year, that peaceful image is completely shattered by one of Japan’s most exciting, most raucous and most dangerous of festivals. Beginning in 1703 as a festival dedicated to the gods of agriculture, the Kishiwada Danjiri Festival has become one of Japan’s most memorable. Teams of men from the city’s 34 various districts vigorously pull 81 massive floats, known as “Danjiri”, at breakneck speed through the narrow streets of the old town. Others operate rudimentary braking systems to turn the enormous behemoths around the tight corners. The festival routes aren’t straight while the wooden-wheeled floats — towering at about 4 metres high and weighing an average of 4 tonnes — have no pivoting axles. This leads to harrowing thrills and spills at the many sharp bends, as the floats sometimes tip or crash into buildings and walls, sending people flying in all directions. Local townsfolk play ancient musical instruments, drums, flutes and gongs. Those responsible for upkeeping the detailed handcrafted vehicles are aboard the floats during this revved-up race through the streets. An honoured district representative rides atop the roof, jumping from left to right trying to maintain the towering, thundering vehicles’ balance. Each neighbourhood vies to outdo the others and have their Danjiri float recognised as the most elaborate, the most gorgeous and, most importantly, the fastest!