Oishii#21 ebook

ISSUE 21 APRIL-JUNE 2019 MCI(P)021/08/2018

CREATIVE THINKING

How Chef Rishi Naleendra takes flavour to the next level

TUNA

tales

Melt-in-your-mouth dishes by maguro masters Secrets of

Setouchi

Dip into hidden gems of the Seto Inland Sea

Between the folds

Artist collects origami tips left by Japanese diners

CHEW ON THIS

Why the best udon noodles are from Akita, Kagawa & Yamanashi Be our OISHII member for FREE and get exclusive benefits!

TOMI SUSHI the taste of NIIGATA

春

秋

SPRING

Magnificent cherry trees, SAKURA, and a historical castle, TAKADA-JOKA

AUTUMN

Rice country-Niigata...

The best rice, KOSHIHIKARI

冬

夏

SUMMER

The blessings of the sea and abundant gift of nature

WINTER

Beautiful snow country - Niigata...

Founded in Niigata in 1954 TOMI SUSHI was first opened in Niigata prefecture in 1954. The change of season is quite noticeable in NIIGATA, this climate helps in producing best-known brand rice KOSHIHIKARI and a lot of big-name SAKE. In addition, Niigata also has numerous varieties of marine products. In such a blessed region, we have been devoted ourselves to serve the best food in every season. We have traditional NIGIRIZUSHI, course meal and all kinds of side dishes. You can taste good SAKE from NIIGATA, too. It's our great pleasure to serve genuine Japanese food to the people in Singapore.

So you will be able to enjoy the most delicious food from NIIGATA!

Millenia 9 Raffles Boulevard #02-12/13 Millenia Walk S039596 Tel: 6238-1123 Opening Hours:11:30-15:30 (L.O.14:30) 17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) NOVENA 238 Thomson Road #02-76/77 Novena Square (VELOCITY) S307683 Tel: 6255-2355 Opening Hours:11:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) KATONG

30 East Coast Road #02-14/15/16 KATONG V S428751 Tel: 6348-7897 Opening Hours:11:30-15:00 (L.O.14:30) 17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30)

http://www.tomisushi.asia/

35 Cuppage Road Cuppage Terrace S229459 Tel: 6333-4633 Opening Hours:17:00-24:00 (L.O.23:30)

182 Cecil Street #01-09 S069547 Tel: 6203-5457 Opening Hours:11:30-15:00 (L.O.14:30) /17:30-22:00 (L.O.21:30) Fri & Eve of PH: ~23:00 (L.O.22:30)

OISHII ISSUE 21

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NTENTS

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Embracing simplicity A wild venison dish at CHEEK Bistro is a fine display of the chef’s creativity.

Back to school Kids, it’s time for a season of new beginnings.

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*The dish pictured on the cover is prepared by Chef Rishi Naleendra.

Best in show Spring into the region’s top food events.

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Unique udon for every season Savour the noodle in a variety of ways.

06

A taste of Japan How Creative Eateries is taking Japanese cuisine across Southeast Asia

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Surprising Setouchi Make this region in the Seto Inland Sea your new favourite destination.

28

Mad about maguro Best bets for your tuna fix by sashimi masters.

33

Here’s a tip Why one Japanese artist is collecting tiny artworks left behind by diners.

34

Cabbage in every way Crunch into these versatile vegetable recipes.

02

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O P E N I N G N OT E S

Back to SCHOOL

Spring is for offspring, as children in Japan start the new academic year in a season of fresh beginnings.

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or further afield from urban centres.

Shizuoka Prefecture, with more than 1,500 commercial strawberry-growers, has been dubbed the “Strawberry Kingdom”, for instance.

As juicy strawberries ripen from yellow to crimson on their stalks, you are free to go around with scissors to fill baskets or punnets with them. While some farms sell by the weight, others have a buffet policy, which is possible as eco-friendly and organic cultivation methods make it safe to eat the fruit right off their runners.

Strawberry varieties include Shizuoka’s benihoppe (red cheeks), known for their sweetness balanced with enough acidity; Fukuoka’s amaou, which are large and round; and Tochigi Prefecture’s famed tochiotome. The latter two have even been infused into speciality KitKat bars.

Do as the local people do and sample strawberries with condensed milk.

Alternatively, they can be shipped home and turned into desserts: strawberry sponge cakes, parfaits—you name it.

As April gives way to May, the land becomes green with growth. Don’t forget to try chimaki, a sticky rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo, banana or reed leaves. Eaten on 5 May to mark Children’s Day, it is believed to be related to the Chinese zong zi.

Sweet chimaki might be glutinous rice filled with yokan (sweet red bean gelatin) or kudzu (arrowroot) powder, while savoury ones might contain chicken or

A POSTCARD FROM JAPAN

“I always find Japanese castles and cherry blossoms make a good pair when it comes to spring!” −OISHII READER PHOEBE WONG

TEXT CLARA CHOW

I

f you are a parent in Japan, chances are you have a photograph of your child on the first day of school under a riot of pink cherry blossoms.

The Japanese school year kicks off in early April, around the same time sakura go into full bloom. Many schools have cherry trees on their grounds and the flowers are an iconic sight that accompanies uniformed kids through the gates, to their classrooms. Families mark the occasion proudly, accompanying their offspring in their best outfits, as it is also symbolic of a young person’s initial steps into community and society.

A sense of renewal and ritual runs through the back-to-school routine.

Parents might also give their offspring study desks at home to mark the start of formal learning. Elementary school-kids are given randoseru—a firm, stitchedleather backpack that will last them through six grades—a tradition dating back to the Edo period (1603-1868).

In the past, girls carried red randoseru, while boys had black ones. This, however, has changed, with a great variety of colours and designs these days.

Reds and pinks also permeate other parts of Japanese life in April, as nature reawakens. As winter melts away, young and old alike venture out to farms to pick fresh strawberries (say “ichigo” in Japanese!), either around Tokyo

pork, bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, burdock root, chestnuts and ginkgo nuts.

Light April showers intensify into June rain. Stuck at home because of the downpours, children entertain themselves indoors—that is, when they are not in school, before the term break in July.

To while the time away, some kids might make teru teru bozu (literally “shine shine monk”). This is a small doll made from white paper, tissue or cloth and is meant to bring good weather. Hang the talisman at the window or embellish your umbrella with it and it just might bring out the sun.

If the weather turns out well, the dolls are traditionally drenched in sake and washed away in a river. Teru teru bozu became popular in the Edo period—famous songs have since been written about the doll—and remains a quintessential Japanese spectacle that holds magic for all ages.

Sake fans, don’t miss out !

Take your pick from our selection of rare sakes that are difficult to find anywhere else. Kanpai!

Top choice for tuna fans!

Tuna Sashimi Steak

While stocks last.

Fresh Pacific Bluefin Tuna Cross-Section Cut Sashimi Enjoy the taste of every prized part of the BLUEFIN TUNA SASHIMI

HIMONO-YA SINGAPORE

Visit our website for more Sake and food menu!

TEL: 6235 9110 (after 2pm) Website: singaporehimonoya.com

11 Unity St., #02-14, Robertson Walk, (S)237995 Opening hours: Mon - Sun, 6pm - 12am (L.O. 11pm)

EVENTS

BEST IN SHOW

From street food to gourmand creations, sake to wine, there’s something for everyone and every palate at these F&B events in Japan and Singapore.

SHINAGAWA INTERCITY, TOKYO

OSAKA, JAPAN

Gaishoku Business Week 14 to 16 May 2019 About 300 exhibitors are taking part in this event, one of Japan’s largest trade shows for the restaurant and food service industry.

Held over three days, it aims to create business opportunities for restaurant owners and suppliers of food-related products. Visitors can also catch it in Tokyo from 27 to 29 August.

Sake Spring Shinagawa 2019 18 to 20 April 2019 Enjoy the best sake Japan has to offer in the centrally located Shinagawa Intercity! With some 50 types of sake to choose from, you’ll be spoilt for choice while getting your money’s worth. Snacks from Kyoto and appearances by maiko (apprentice geisha) make this an experience to be remembered.

YAMANASHI, JAPAN

Fuji Delicious Food Festival 2019 13 April to 26 May 2019 Held concurrently with the photo-worthy Fuji Shibazakura Festival, this event is not to be missed. With Mount Fuji as the backdrop, 800,000 pink moss flowers come into bloom, bursting with different shades of pink for as far as the eye can see. For the tummy, local favourites are also in abundance. Try Fujiyoshida Udon, or Fujinomiya Yakisoba in an award-winning spicy broth. Or simply nibble on your favourite Japanese street food as you take in the sights.

SINGAPORE

Singapore Food Festival 2019 12 to 28 July 2019 Nothing encapsulates Singapore’s diverse yet unique culture more than its food, and there is no better time to try it all than at the Singapore Food Festival. Into its 26th year, the two-week-long festival features the many flavours of local favourites and is a perfect excuse to gourmandise on everything Singapore’s culinary talents have to offer.

TOKYO, JAPAN

Wine & Gourmet 2019 17 to 19 April 2019 The 10th edition of the trade event brings together importers, retailers, manufacturers and professionals from the wine, spirits and food service industry. With close to 200 exhibitors from all over the world showcasing their best products, this year’s event is touted to be its biggest ever. It is not just a networking opportunity with industry players; visitors will also be able to take part in seminars, tasting and wine-pairing programmes. They will also get to vote on the best-looking bottle labels!

SINGAPORE

World Gourmet Summit 2019 2 April to 12 May 2019 Haute cuisine and epicurean experiences are the hallmarks of the World Gourmet Summit, where world-renowned master chefs and top restaurants come together to showcase their culinary creations.

This year’s event will focus on sustainability, but you can still indulge in endless gastronomic activities, from bespoke dinners to demonstrations, and sample the very best wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Tuscany in wine-tasting sessions.

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SINGAPORE

Speciality & Fine Food Fair 2019 17 to 19 July 2019 Key decision makers and buyers across the retail, wholesale, food service and hospitality sectors in Southeast Asia will be congregating at this trade event, now in its third year. Explore the artisanal and gourmet products on show, get tips from leading chefs and industry veterans, and gain insights on new trends and innovations shaping the food industry today. The event will also feature RPB Asia, the region’s only trade show dedicated to the restaurant, pub and bar community.

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in mmer afternoon It was a warm su Having just left o. ot y K a, am iy ugh Higash e, we strolled thro pl m te a er d u iz Kiyom e sights of this th g in y jo en s et the stone stre re moment when ra a In t. ic tr is d ese charming we witnessed th e, on g e av h s d the crow ere t kimono who w an eg el in ad cl . s ladie ng young men ti ec sp su n u le z about to daz - its.me.meghan

Many stories can be told from this photo.

The angle is supe rb as it shows the height of the gojyu-no-to (fivestorey pagoda) as se en from an old alley in Kyoto.

The two women give a sense of movement, an d their yukata ad ds colour and liveliness to the sc ene. Well done!

- OISHII editoria l team

THE FINALISTS

RUNNERS UP

Congratulations to the 2 winners!!! You will each walk away with vouchers worth $100.

sohrichard

mdmchiankitchen

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blackramen

chloezee12

angelalsn

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INTERVIEW

A taste of JAPAN Anthony Wong, hotelier-turned-restaurateur and CEO of Creative Eateries, is taking Japanese cuisine across South-east Asia while keeping it authentic.

TEXT SITI ROHANI

“I

n 2007, I tried yakiniku (Japanese charcoal grill cuisine) for the first time in Tokyo and loved it. Prior to that, I had been operating Thai and Western restaurants and thought about having a Japanese restaurant in my portfolio. That dinner was the best BBQ meal I had as it allowed diners to appreciate different cuts of meat at once.

Nine months after that, we opened Tajimaya, a yakiniku restaurant at VivoCity. From the beginning, it was very well-received. It’s a nice experience to cook your own meat over a charcoal fire to the doneness you prefer.

Within the first month, we were profitable. We realised we could run a Japanese restaurant on our own. Our second Japanese restaurant was at Marina Square. I looked at the traffic flow and real estate, and came up with an all-you-caneat sukiyaki concept.

Today, we have 20 Suki-Ya outlets in the region, including Malaysia, Singapore and Taipei. It’s popular because it’s interactive: People enjoy each other’s company while they are preparing their food. The food is clean and healthy, and the salad bar appeals to many.

Whether a customer spends $50 or $5, it must be value for money. The food

At Suki-Ya, diners can indulge in buffet-style sukiyaki.

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standard and quality consistency must be there.

Suki-Ya offers free flow of chicken, pork and vegetables, rotated regularly. We have different types of meatballs because we discovered people liked them. We experiment with different things, like bringing in a special glass noodle. We go to food fairs in Tokyo to try new products ourselves. Then we come back and ask our importers to bring them in for us.

Japanese food is not like other cuisines that have lots of frying, strong-flavoured sauces or spicy pastes. If the quality is not there, a discerning palate can easily detect it. Turnover of the produce is very important. We control our kitchens’ purchasing tightly. We know what we need on a daily basis, so chefs don’t need to order for five days and store.

More Japanese eateries to come We have plans to build another yakiniku restaurant by the end of the year, as well as open more Suki-Ya outlets in Malaysia and Taiwan, possibly even in Manila.

(Creative Eateries won the Franchising and Licensing Association Singapore’s 2018 Franchiser of the Year award.)

Our third Rocku Yakiniku outlet in Kuala Lumpur is likely to open in July. We have two there and one in Cambodia.

Rocku targets a younger crowd. The price is more affordable, a three-piece band

performs while customers dine, and we encourage games and beer-drinking to lighten up the dining experience.

We don’t adjust the taste of our Japanese food to suit the market. We offer a very true Japanese experience. If, in KL, someone wants sambal belacan to eat with their meat, we don’t allow it.

When one customer in Singapore wanted local soy sauce with their shabu shabu, we said we didn’t have it, and he was a bit upset. But we’re a Japanese restaurant, it’s just not right, so you have to say no.

The only exception is the soup. If you go to a shabu-shabu restaurant in Tokyo, you get a choice of one soup. They believe that beef should be in one type of stock and seafood should be taken in a clearer kombu stock. It’s not like steamboat. But some Southeast Asian traditions are hard to break: We find our customers put raw ingredients in everything, so we give in to what they prefer.

The F&B industry in Singapore is becoming very crowded. You have to be on top of things. I eat in my restaurant almost every day, sometimes twice a day.

I pick my food and invite people to eat with me. They are my guinea pigs.

In the past, all-day dining Japanese restaurants offered everything from sashimi to tonkatsu. Now, restaurants specialise in just one item—you either do very good tempura or yakiniku. I wish I knew what’s the next big thing. But if I had a chance, I’d like to do Japaneseinspired cuisine based on tofu.”

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20 lucky winners who sign up as a new OISHII member during April promotion period will stand a chance to win a packet of

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Stand a chance to win a $100 voucher valid at Tomisushi and Himonoya, highly rated Japanese restaurants in town, when you sign up as a new OISHII member during May promotional period. We have 10 vouchers to give away!

*The choice of either one of two restaurants is arranged by OISHII, vouchers are not interchangable, and winners will be announced 1st June 2019. Other T&C apply.

TOMISUSHI

HIMONOYA

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ISSUE 20 JANUARY-MARCH 2019 MCI(P)021/08/2018

NEW BEGINNINGS

Elegant eats by

Konnichiwa*

ESORA Chef Shigeru Koizumi

AichikogenOkumikawa!

Go off the beaten track in Aichi Prefecture *“Hello” in Japanese

FACE VALUE

Unveiling a ceramics master’s sublime sake cups COVER_Oishii_Winter 2019_sg.indd 1

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3 fave rice cakes to try Be our OISHII member for FREE and get exclusive benefits!

“OISHII” ‒ a magazine dedicated to the many culinary and gourmet wonders of Japan, from Singapore to the World.

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A R T I S T I C C R E AT I O N

Embracing

SIMPLICITY Thirty-four-year-old chef Rishi Naleendra was born in Sri Lanka and moved to Australia as a teenager to study architecture. He decided to channel his creativity to cooking instead and gained experience at several top Australian restaurants such as Taxi Kitchen, Tetsuya’s and Yellow. After moving to Singapore in 2014, Naleendra worked at the now defunct MACA in Tanglin Road, before helming modern Australian restaurant, Cheek by Jowl, in 2016. The name, which means side by side, speaks of the working relationship he has with his wife, Manuela Toniolo, who manages the business side of things. The restaurant earned a Michelin star the following year but has since closed. In the same space, Naleendra has launched a casual eatery called CHEEK Bistro. He’s also opening a fine-dining, as-yet-unnamed restaurant in Amoy Street in mid-May.

CHEEK Bistro is located at 21 Boon Tat Street.

Tel: 6221 1911

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“W

hat drives me to cook is purely creativity.

Not that many things give me that pleasure of having an idea in my head and putting it out there, and it works.

The idea for the dish, Venison with Fermented Plums and Pickled Cashews, came about when my fish supplier had some wild venison from New Zealand and asked me if I wanted some. I said ‘yes’ because I wanted to taste it. I went to a Japanese supermarket and picked up umeboshi (fermented plums), wasabi, shiso and zucchini. The dish didn’t look like this in the beginning, but the ingredients haven’t changed.

The venison is lightly seared, aburi style, which gives it a different texture and flavour, and then minced. I added pickled cashews, capers, shallots, chives and chopped shiso to the tartare. The green

puree is made up of zucchini and wasabi, and I made a dressing out of the umeboshi with rice wine vinegar, sake, mirin and soy sauce. Then I top it off with zucchini flowers. When you start eating it, you get all the different textures and layers coming through.

My obsession with all things Japanese started when I worked at Taxi Kitchen in Melbourne. I liked the discipline in the way they worked. And I also picked up discipline and patience when I worked at Tetsuya’s in Sydney.

I love sashimi. It’s my ultimate favourite food.

Good soy sauce, a really nice piece of fish, really good wasabi—you can’t beat it. If you talk about a cooking philosophy, that’s one thing I always go back to—less is more. You don’t need 100 ingredients on a plate to make a nice dish.”

TEXT SITI ROHANI PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION

Chef Rishi Naleendra

F L AV O U R

Unique UDON for every season

The humble udon is ubiquitous in Japanese cuisine, but did you know that there are different varieties of udon depending on the prefectures they are from? We go behind the broth to bring you backstories of udon from Kagawa, Akita and Yamanashi.

TEXT MABEL LEE

T

he udon is to Japanese cuisine what spaghetti is to Italian gastronomyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a homely staple produced in the easiest of fashions and which can be eaten in a variety of ways, with a smorgasbord of accompanying ingredients.

This simple noodle is deceptively versatile, and the many ways it can be served means there is something for everyone, any mood and in any season: In a bowl of soul-warming hot broth dancing with familiar flavours for a cold day. As a refreshing perk-me-up on a summer afternoon, served chilled over a zaru tray.

For the more spice-inclined, with curry.

And, for a more powerful punch, stir-fried with fresh ingredients.

Udon is mostly consumed in the first way, with the broth made from dashi, soy sauce and mirin, and topped with thinly sliced scallion. It is usually accompanied by side dishes and toppings such as tempura, aburaage (deep-fried tofu pockets) and kamaboko (fish cake shaped as a half-moon). The broths vary according to the region they are from.

Those from eastern Japan are darker in colour and richer in taste, while those from western Japan appear lighter and have a more delicate flavour. This is due to differences in preparation methods and ingredients, such as the type of soy sauce used and even the hardness of water!

If simple variations like these can result in such differences in broth, what more for udon from various parts of Japan? The noodle may be made from the same basic ingredientsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;wheat flour, salt and waterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but those from Kagawa, Akita and Yamanashi prefectures are forged by their specific geographical climates and customs. Each has a unique fingerprint in form, texture and taste, and are savoured in their very own special way.

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F L AV O U R

SANUKI udon

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ailing from Kagawa Prefecture located in southern Japan’s Shikoku island, sanuki udon is the most widely available type of udon today. It is synonymous with its hometown, so much so that Kagawa itself is affectionately known as Udon Prefecture.

Sanuki udon is distinctively square and flat, its texture firm and chewy. The udon gets its firmness from the wheat it uses—sanuki no yume—which is only produced in the prefecture.

Kagawa’s unique climate, characterised by mild weather and low rainfall, is key in influencing the other essential components that make sanuki udon special. Sea salt used in the production of sanuki udon goes through solar evaporation, a process which allows the salt to retain its natural taste. Small anchovies, bred in fishing farms all over Kagawa, are brewed in broth for a unique flavour and to better bring out the umami of the udon.

Eating sanuki udon in Kagawa is an experience in itself simply because it can be served in so many

ways, hot or cold. The most common is as kake udon, with hot piping broth. This also happens to be how udon connoisseurs take their sanuki udon.

Or have kamaage udon, which has the noodles boiled with hot water and served with a strong dashi dipping sauce. You can also try kamatama udon, steaming hot noodles topped with a raw egg and soy sauce, or bukkake udon, which is served either hot or cold and with less but thicker broth compared to kake udon.

Being spoilt for choice is only half the fun in Japan’s udon capital. Kagawa is home to more than 600 udon shops, many of which are self-service establishments where you get to choose your own type of noodle and serving portion, before adding the broth, toppings and side dishes to your stomach’s content. Not enough udon? In Kagawa, you can chill with udon ice cream, learn to make your own sanuki udon at an udon school or even book an udon taxi, and be guided by your driver and udon expert as he shows you the best-kept secrets in town.

F L AV O U R

INANIWA udon

U

nlike its prevalent sanuki counterpart, the inaniwa udon is a rarity, and its provenance stands in a class of its own. The inaniwa udon first made its mark on the Japanese culinary world back in 1655, with its smooth and glistening form matched by an exquisite flavour. It was so highly prized that during the Edo period (1603-1868), it was exclusively served as tribute to feudal lords in Akita Prefecture, where it is from. It gained widespread attention after the Meiji period (1868-1912), when it was presented to the Imperial Household Agency as a gift and won numerous awards.

Like the sanuki udon, the inaniwa udon has its local climate to thank for its uniqueness. Located in the northeast region of Tohoku, Akita Prefecture is surrounded by mountains and borders the Sea of Japan. Its harsh climate gives rise to high variations in temperatures across the seasonsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;bitterly cold in winter, hot and humid in summer. Temperatures fluctuate every day, and this is turn brings abundant harvests. Clean air and water further allows Akita to

produce high quality wheat used in the making of inaniwa udon.

Since the noodle is painstakingly prepared by hand, each batch takes artisanal udon makers up to four days to create. Soft wheat flour, salt and water is first kneaded into a dough, flattened by two rods, stretched slightly like a thick rope, coiled and left to air-dry for a day. The next day, the dough is rolled flat, hand-stretched yet again into thinner noodles and left to rest across two steel bars, with udon masters ensuring that each strand does not touch another. This repeated process of stretching by hand, letting it age and rest on metal rods is repeated until the noodle reaches its desired length. Air bubbles formed during this process of hand-kneading and ageing is incorporated into the udon, and is the secret to the inaniwa udonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chewiness.

The silky smooth and chewy inaniwa udon can be enjoyed hot, in a clear broth so that its subtle flavours do not overpower the delicate udon, or as a cold dish best taken in summer, dipped in soy, miso or sesame sauce.

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F L AV O U R

HOTO udon

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hile the inaniwa udon is perfected by udon masters, the hoto udon from Yamanashi Perfecture is the epitome of comfort food loving moulded by a motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand. Unlike most other udon, it is flat and wide with thick and heavy texture.

Located southwest of Tokyo on Honshu island, Yamanashi Prefecture has a harsh climate. Cold temperatures and vast swathes of volcanic debris make rice production impossible. So locals turned to wheat and flour production instead, and it is this wheat which goes into hoto udon.

The noodle was the perfect dish of choice for time-constrained women who had to tend to the fields in the day and cook dinner for huge families in the evening. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how local households prepare it the traditional way: Knead the dough in a wooden bowl, stretch it out to dry, fold it over and cut the dough into large pieces with a kitchen knife. Once ready, it is placed in a huge boiling pot of miso broth filled with seasonal vegetables (onions and potatoes in summer; taro, carrots, Chinese cabbage in winter) and boiled. The cooked udon and its hearty vegetable contents are then served as a main staple in a soup

bowl, usually accompanied by a side of rice. Leftover hoto soup is seldom discarded and is kept for the next day as it becomes starchier and stronger-flavoured.

Interestingly, although hoto udon is commonly categorised as an udon, some locals actually do not consider it to be one, as the dough used is more similar to that of a dumpling. Unlike other types of udon, hoto udon does not contain salt and is not left to sit. It also contains more gluten, which gives it its tough texture.

Hoto udon was popularised after World War II, its ascent linked to Yamanashiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s industrial and commercial redevelopment. The image of local warlord Takeda Shingen (1521-1573) was heavily used in promotional material, and as advertisements would have you believe, legend has it that he and his soldiers would eat hoto udon before entering into battle. Hoto udon is so intertwined with Takeda Shingen that today, shops serving the noodle display his battle flag.

The traditionally economical hoto udon has also evolved to incorporate modern extravagances. It is sometimes served with red bean soup and nontraditional ingredients such as turtle, crab and oysters.

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Surprising

SETOUCHI T

he Setouchi region of Japan encompasses the islands and coastal areas within the Seto Inland Sea, the 400-kilometre stretch of water that lies between three major Japanese islands: Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu. With a moderate climate, the region is comfortable to visit year-round, and with a relatively lower profile outside of Japan, it offers a laid-back experience without the hordes of tourists. But that might change as it was recently named No. 7 of 52 Places You Should Visit in 2019

by The New York Times.

The region encompasses several prefectures, including Hiroshima, Ehime

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and Okayama, as well as thousands of smaller islands. For this issue, we take a closer look at Onomichi and Tomonoura in Hiroshima Prefecture, and Ehime Prefecture.

The two prefectures are connected by the Shimanami Kaido, a nine-bridge 60-kilometre expressway linking Honshu with Shikoku. What’s special about the expressway is it also has a slightly longer dedicated bicycle lane—at 70 kilometres— that has been drawing avid cyclists to the region. The Shimanami Kaido starts at Onomichi and ends at Imabari in Ehime Prefecture.

You can also get around on trains

TEXT SITI ROHANI PHOTOGRAPHY CHISATO NYUNOYA

With rich and diverse cultural, historical and culinary delights, the Setouchi region within the Seto Inland Sea is set to be your new favourite destination.

SE TO U C H I

Hiroshima Airport

Hiroshima

Shin-Kurashiki

Mihara

Fukuyama

Onomichi

Tomonoura

Shimanami Kaido

Shin-Onomichi

Okayama

Great Seto Bridge

Imabari Matsuyama

Iyo-ozu

easily on West Japan Railway Company (JR West)’s services. With a direct flight from Singapore to Hiroshima, you can begin exploring the Setouchi region as soon as you touch down. There’s a shinkansen high-speed train and a local train from Hiroshima to Onomichi and from there you can connect to Fukuyama, the nearest town to Tomonoura. From Hiroshima, you can choose to take a train or ferry to Matsuyama, Ehime’s capital city.

They may be different cities with different histories and cultures but the Seto Inland Sea, also known as Setonaikai, binds them together with shared

Sanyo Shinkansen

characteristics. One is their love for tai, or sea bream, though each area has its own unique way of showcasing this versatile fish.

In Ehime, it comes in the form of tai meshi, steamed rice cooked with the bream, after which the fish is deboned and mixed in along with fish broth.

In Tomonoura, tai is particularly abundant due to the converging tides.

There, the tai dishes come in many forms, including sashimi and tempura. Citrus fruits are also an important produce in the area. Ehime is synonymous with the mikan orange while Hiroshima is known for lemons.

Let’s get to know these different places.

The view of Tomonoura Port Town, Hiroshima Prefecture OISHII

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The old-world charm of ONOMICHI O

dockyard on Mukaishima, one of nomichi, an illustrious port Onomichi’s three islands. In the distance, city in eastern Hiroshima CAPTIONS you can see the start of the Shimanami Prefecture, evokes an Kaido. Be sure to stop by the Lovers old-world charm with its rustic buildings Sanctuary and make a wish for romance. and ancient temples. There were 81 temples at its peak but only 25 remain, Then take a stroll down the hill and explore curious sights such as Cat Alley, all of which are accessible on the where you’ll find a sake bar, a souvenir 2.5-kilometre Temple Walk. The most shop and many cats—some real, some famous is Senkoji Temple, said to be built made of stone. in AD 806, which sits atop Mt Senkoji.

Onomichi was associated with several Legend has it that a glittering diamond at prolific authors, including Fumiko Hayashi, the top served as a guide for ships. Today, instead of a gem, a cable car runs from the and it was also the setting for the 1953 film, The Tokyo Story. For those looking to peak every 15 minutes, taking you on the short but scenic ride up to Senkoji Temple discover the city’s culinary delights, try its speciality, Onomichi ramen, which uses and Park. flat noodles and has bits of pork fat in a At the top, head to the observation soy sauce-based soup. The area is also deck and take in the magnificent view of famous for lemons and other citrus fruits, the sea, surrounding mountains and so you’ll come across many products featuring these ingredients.

Looking down Onomichi city from Senkoji Park

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ONOMICHI

What to eat & see in Onomichi Kakehashi Onomichi-born chef-owner Takanao Kakimoto serves seasonal kaiseki sets of seven to nine innovative dishes showcasing local produce. In fact, 99 per cent of the sake served here is from Hiroshima. Expect perfectly plated and flavourfully balanced dishes like niebana rice with red miso, fried oyster with arrowroot powder, fugu tempura and hirame (sole fish) sushi. Reservations are a must.

Kuishinbo Senryo This shop serving Onomichi ramen is an institution, having been established 33 years ago. It has been in its present location for the past three years. Chefowner Fukuichi Sato’s version is a little lighter than other iterations as he uses chicken and vegetable stock. His daughter and grandkids now man the 21-seater eatery, where they serve an average of 120 bowls daily.

Onomichi Port (Onomichi Ekimae Port Parking) Onomichi may be the start of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route, but you don’t have to be a serious cyclist to be part of the experience. Simply rent a bicycle at Onomichi Port and pedal casually down the boardwalk while enjoying the view of the sea and docked ships. For those who want to explore the neighbouring islands of Mukaishima, Innoshima, Sagishima and Ikuchijima, this is also where you can hop on board a ferry, with your bike if you wish to bring it.

The centrally located JR Onomichi Station is just a few minutes’ walk from the port if you need to catch a train at the end of the day. It takes an hour and 20 minutes to get to Hiroshima via a local train.

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Step back in time in

TOMONOURA

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Twilight at Joyato

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ocated just a 30-minute drive away from Fukuyama city centre is the quaint harbour town of Tomonoura. With its old fishing village vibe, you will feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Stroll along the pier and you’ll come across the iconic Joyato, a 10-metrehigh lighthouse that was built in 1859. It’s just one example of Edo period (16031868) port facilities that can still be found today. The central government is helping to restore several buildings dating back some 300 years. Residents have also successfully fought against a plan to reclaim part of the port to build a car park.

A speciality here is homeishu, or herbal sake, which has been produced in this city for more than 350 years.

Tomonoura now has four brewers. This

medicinal liquor is made by blending local sake with different herbs. Tai is also especially abundant here due to the convergence of tides that is favoured by the fish during spawning season.

Fans of Studio Ghibli’s Hayao Miyazaki might recognise the city as the backdrop used in the film Ponyo. The animator and his team stayed in Tomonoura for two months. He loved the city so much that he helped in the restoration process of a historic building, Onfunayado Iroha. This guesthouse was where, in 1867, Ryoma Sakamoto successfully brokered a peace deal for what was referred to as Japan’s first marine accident investigation. The city’s other claim to fame is that it was featured in Wolverine, starring Hugh Jackman.

TO M O N O U R A

What to eat & see in Tomonoura Onfunayado Iroha This historic building now functions as an inn, along with a restaurant that serves kaiseki meals made from locally sourced ingredients. Owner Hideko Matsui came up with a special dish called taizukushi gozen (sea bream cooked in different ways), which comes with kabutoni (head of tai stewed in soy sauce, mirin and sake), tai iroha zuke (tai sashimi soaked in stock and sake for three days) and various side dishes.

Homeishu This herbal sake is a uniquely Tomonoura product, first created in 1659. It’s made by brewing sake with 16 types of herbs. The sweet liquor is said to have health benefits, such as curing fatigue. Stop by brewer Irie Toyosaburou Honten to pick up some homeishu products, including homeishu-flavoured candy. The shop is a popular stop for visitors because of its Edo period design.

Chitose Enjoy a meal with a view of the Setonaikai and neighbouring Bentenjima island at this 70-year-old eatery that serves all manner of tai dishes. The speciality is tai somen (multi-coloured noodles) and tai meishi, a flavourful sea bream claypot rice with bits of fish mixed in and topped with sesame seeds and seaweed. Other tai delicacies include tai head stew, tai tempura and a daikon salad topped with fried tai skin.

Taichoro Built around 1690, this guesthouse welcomed Korean dignitaries during the Edo period. It’s attached to the Fukuzen-ji temple, which is said to have been built around AD 950. The reception hall boasts a spectacular view of Benten-jima and Sensui-jima islands from windows that appear to frame the scene like a picture.

In 1711, a member of the Korean mission wrote “most beautiful in Japan” in brush calligraphy, describing the view from the hall.

Tomonoura Historic Town Explore the alleys and pathways of the old town and get a close-up view of the homes that have been standing for hundreds of years. To learn more about the port town’s past, stop by the Tomonoura Museum of History and Folklore. Visit the Irohamaru Exhibition Building to view items from the wrecks of the famous marine disaster and finally, head to the Ota Family Residence, which used to belong to an illustrious family that brewed homeishu in the late 17th century.

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Experience

EHIME’S diversity E

hime Prefecture lies just across the Setonaikai from Hiroshima Prefecture. Despite their proximity, they lie on two different islands—Hiroshima is on Japan’s largest island of Honshu while Ehime is one of the four prefectures that make up the smallest island, Shikoku.

The mikan, a type of orange, is the most prominent agricultural product here. You know you’ve entered the land of

mikan when you see images of the orange mascot, Mican, everywhere the moment you arrive.

Tai is another prized ingredient and the fish appears in several delicacies, including tai meshi (sea bream rice) and tai somen, a soup dish with colourful noodles. Goshiki, a restaurant in the capital city of Matsuyama, is famous for both dishes. To enjoy tai somen, first add some dashi to the tai stew, then mix the fish meat with the five-coloured noodles. Dip the noodles in sauce and slurp up that tai goodness.

Ehime is a diverse area, with a cosmopolitan city, coastal and mountainous areas, all located within easy reach. It’s home to the oldest onsen in Japan, Dogo Onsen, which dates back 3,000 years. Its famous three-storey public bath, which served as an inspiration for Aburaya in Studio Ghibli’s Spirited Away, is undergoing repairs, but visitors can access a newer public bath or enjoy the ones provided by a ryokan.

Tobe, a 40-minute drive from Matsuyama, is known for the indigo blue ceramics of tobeyaki. Ozu, a 40-minute train ride from the capital city, boasts a charming old town and a historical villa, while nearby Uchiko has preserved several of its culturally significant buildings.

Tai Somen at Goshiki

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EHIME

What to eat, see & do in EHIME Tomisoba Nouvel Terroir Chef-owner Ryotaro Kohara creates European-influenced dishes using in-season local produce at this Imabari restaurant. He works closely with local producers, so he knows where his ingredients come from. Among his creations are sea bream carpaccio and grilled chicken with tomato basil sauce, served with Japanese yam, kabu turnip and sweet potatoes.

The key to this Michelin-listed eatery’s success lies in the buckwheat soba noodles that 70-year-old owner Yamada Tomio makes by hand daily at the premises in Tobe city. The noodles are served cold and dipped in the soy sauce mixture that Tomio-san created. Order the sobazukushi set, which includes a dessert made of soba dough in red bean paste.

Hakurakuten This Chinese-style casual eatery in Imabari is famous for its yakibuta tamago meshi, or roast pork rice. The dish, which came about in 1970 as an employee meal, became popular after it was submitted to a national cooking competition. The moist char siew is the perfect combination of sweet and salty, while the egg adds a creamy texture to the whole dish.

Garyu Sanso in Ozu

Uchiko-za and Kamihaga Residence in Uchikocho A visit to Uchikocho is not complete without experiencing these “Important Cultural Property of Japan” sites. The Kamihaga Residence, built in 1894, belonged to the Kamihaga family, a leading wax producer in the city. The site houses a museum where you can learn about the wax production process. Japanese wax, or mokuro, is extracted from the berries of the sumac tree. At its peak, Uchiko was responsible for about 30 per cent of Japan’s total wax production.

Another historical site is the Uchiko-za, a traditional kabuki theatre built in 1916. The theatre can seat 650 during a performance and is unique because of the Taiko drum on the roof. The drum is beaten to signal a performance such as Bunraku, which is a form of traditional puppet theatre.

Just a half-hour walk from the train station through the traditional town of Ozu is the Garyu Sanso, a villa overlooking the Hijikawa River. The villa, which was completed in 1907, drew design influences from several imperial palaces. The main building is called Garyu-in, which boasts intricately carved beams and unique door handles. There’s a small tearoom in the garden area and a Sukiyastyle tea pavilion called Furo-an, which was built to resemble a boat. The Garyu Sanso was listed in the Michelin Green Guide Japan in 2011 as a one-star attraction.

Iyonada Monogatari Get to Ozu city in style on this retro-modern train, a service of JR Shikoku, which departs from Matsuyama Station on weekends and holidays. Enjoy spectacular views of the countryside and the Seto Inland Sea, while dining on a sumptuous breakfast. Along the way, local residents will stand at the stations to wave to you, including the station master at Goro, who dresses up in a raccoon costume. The train makes a pit stop at the picturesque Shimonada Station for a requisite photo op.

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Meet the people of SETOUCHI Ruka Fujii, CEO of Setouchi Cruising This secondgeneration CEO hit upon the idea for a one-of-a-kind boat catering to cycling enthusiasts.

How did you come up with the idea of a boat for cyclists?

With the Shimanami Kaido, more people started arriving with their bikes. While they can use the regular ferry, it isn’t specifically catered to that demographic and there were issues like bikes crashing into each other. So I had the idea to start Cycleship LazuLi, which was launched in October 2018.

How has the vessel been retrofitted for bicycles?

We have a dedicated space so they can be placed neatly and safely. And instead of the usual 45-degree incline staircase, we designed it at 33 degrees so it’s easier to carry the bicycles to the top deck.

What happens to the boat during the cycling off-season?

The cycling high season is during spring and autumn, so I wanted to make sure the boat could be used for other activities the rest of the time. For example, it can be chartered to set off fireworks. So the boat needed to be specially made. It’s the only one in the world and it cost US$1.5 million (S$2 million).

Are you a cyclist yourself?

I do cycle but not long distance. I take the ferry to Ikuchijima island and from there I cycle to Ehime, which isn’t too far.

Shizuhiro Nishikawa, bamboo weaver As the last of his generation of master weavers specialising in the yachara ami style, 78-year-old Nishikawa-san is keen to find a successor.

How did you learn weaving?

My father taught me when I was 18, so I’ve been doing this for 60 years. I’ve even made something for Emperor Akihito. It was presented to him as a gift during the national sports competition held in Ehime last year.

How long did it take to master the craft?

I started by learning how to cut the bamboo, which took me two to three years of just cutting. I had cuts all over my hands because the bamboo is sharp.

What’s special about the form of weaving you do?

The style is called yachara ami and is unique to Ehime Prefecture. I’m the only person specialising in this form. It’s when the bottom of the weave looks uniform and the rest looks like a random pattern.

You have to maintain the shape while making a freeform pattern. It takes skill to bring it all together again.

Are there enough people to carry on the tradition?

My son, who is 50, is the youngest successor in the prefecture. It would be useful if the government could come up with opportunities to promote the craft so we can attract the younger generation. We now run a weaving class for tourists in Dogo Onsen.

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Exploring

SETOUCHI by Train A

vid train travellers will love being in Japan because it has one of the most-developed railway networks in the world. Japanese trains are renowned for being fast, efficient and clean. They also famously run on time so it’s a good idea to be waiting on the platform at least 10 minutes before you’re set to depart.

One of the advantages of travelling on a JR train is that you’re allowed to eat and drink onboard. With convenience stores located at every station— and even on some platforms—you can quickly grab some refreshments before settling in for a comfortable ride.

You can also enjoy an ekiben if you’re looking for something more satisfying. The word is a combination of eki (station) and bento (lunchbox), but an ekiben is no ordinary lunchbox. It’s region-specific, which means the food and even the packaging are created specially to promote the different flavours and culture of each area. Grab a tako meshi (octopus rice) at Fukuyama Station, indulge in some anago meshi (sea eel rice) when you’re in Onomichi Station and pick up a shoyu meshi (soy sauce rice) at Matsuyama Station!

While you’re savouring your delicious meal, you can enjoy picturesque views of the city, countryside, mountains or the Seto Inland Sea right outside your window. In the Setouchi region, it’s common to enjoy all these different views, sometimes within the same ride. To cover the areas mentioned in this story, we travelled on trains run by West Japan Railway Company (JR West), between Fukuyama, Onomichi and Hiroshima, with a jet ferry ride to Matsuyama thrown in for good measure.

To make all this train-hopping easier, JR West has a special Setouchi Area Pass, which gives users unlimited access for five consecutive days on designated trains, including unreserved seats on the shinkansen, as well as selected trams, buses and ferries within the region.

You can also use the pass at three different airports: Fukuoka Airport, Hiroshima Airport and Kansai International Airport.

If you’re travelling between Shin-Osaka and Hakata stations, you may even have a lucky encounter with a pink and white Hello Kitty shinkansen. Car 1 of the eight-car train has been transformed into a cute display area showcasing areas of interest around western Japan, and even has a small shop selling special souvenirs featuring the popular character.

The pass is only available to foreigners and is cheaper at ¥17,000 (S$208) if purchased outside of Japan. It costs ¥18,000 (S$220) if bought within Japan. Once you purchase the pass online or at a travel agent, you will receive a voucher, which you have to exchange for a physical pass at a JR Ticket Office, such as the one at Hiroshima Station. Then you’re all set—just show your pass to the station staff at the gantry, and you’re free to board. The only trouble you may have is trying to cram as much as possible into just five days!

Seto Ōhashi Bridge in Seto Inland Sea OISHII

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Take these SETOUCHI souvenirs home TENUGUI TOWELS

These 100 per cent cotton towels were designed by local university students to showcase the sights and specialities of Onomichi, including cats, setoda lemon, the ferry and Onomichi ramen.

HOMEISHU CAKES

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not able to bring home a bottle of the medicinal liquor, you can still enjoy its flavour through homeishu cakes, which retain the sweet and herbal taste.

LEMON PRODUCTS

Whether you like it sweet, sour or even a tad spicy, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lemon-based souvenir for you. The fruit is popular in Hiroshima Prefecture and is mainly harvested on Ikuchijima island. Take home a heart-shaped lemon tart, lemon cakes and lemon jam.

DRIED SAYORI

KEIMA KAMABOKO

Enjoy fresh and traditionally made fish cakes at this famous shop, which was established in 1913. The shop sells about 15 varieties of handmade fish and seafood cakes, and even fish sausages. It is popular among locals who order gift baskets to be mailed to family and friends in other parts of Japan.

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The sayori, or Japanese half beak, is another popular fish from Hiroshima. This dried version is fantastic as a snack with sake or beer, or you can lightly grill it before eating.

SE TO U C H I

BESSHI AME

Each piece of this traditional candy from Nihama city is wrapped in edible rice paper, and it comes in flavours such as mikan, matcha, strawberry, chocolate, peanut, coffee and plum.

SAKE (YAMATAN MASAMUNE)

GESSOU MOCHI

This treat is available only at the Bunbuku shop, established in 1624, in Ozu old town. The arrowroot powder mochi has a red bean filling and is dusted with green bean powder.

Established in 1831, Yamatan Masamune is the only sake brewery in Imabari. They use sake rice from Ehime Prefecture and 90 per cent of their ingredients are sourced from the area. Their sake has won multiple awards, including the silver medal at the International Wine Competition (IWC) in 2018.

MIKAN DAIFUKU

This dessert is a whole mikan fruit covered in mochi skin. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s frozen immediately after making to preserve the taste. Eat it chilled to ensure the skin stays intact.

TOBEYAKI CENTRE EN-NO-SATO

Pick up a beautifully made Tobeyaki at En-no-sato factory and learn what goes into the making of these porcelain pieces. You can also paint your own cup using the colours and brushes provided.

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Onomichi Senkoji Park 19-1 Nishitsuchidocho, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Pref. 722-0032 Tel: 0848-38-9184

Mt. Senkoji Ropeway 20-1 Higashitsuchidocho, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Pref. 722-0033 Tel: 0848-22-4900 Kakehashi 3-12 Higashigosyocho, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Pref, 722-0036 Tel: 0848-24-3477 Kuishinbo Senryo 1-1-10 Tsuchido, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Pref. 722-0035 Tel: 0848-25-2639

Onomichi Port (Onomichi Ekimae Port Parking) Higashigosyocho, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Pref. 722-0036 Tel: 0848-22-5332

Tomonoura Museum of History and Folklore 536-1 Tomocho Ushiroji, Fukuyama City, Hiroshim Pref. 720-0202 Tel: 084-982-1121 Irohamaru Exhibition Building 843-1 Tomocho Tomo, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Pref. 720-0201 Tel: 084-982-1681 Ota Family Residence 842 Tomocho Tomo, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Pref. 720-0201 Tel: 084-982-3553

Tomonoura Joyato 843-1 Tomocho Tomo, Fukuyama City, Hiroshim Pref. 720-0201 Tel: 084-928-1043

Ehime Goshiki 3-5-4 Sanbancho, Matsuyama City, Ehime Pref. 790-0003 Tel: 089-933-3838

Onfunayado Iroha 670 Tomocho Tomo, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Pref. 720-0201 Tel: 084-982-1920

Hakurakuten 4-1-19 Tokiwacho, Imabari City, Ehime Pref. 794-0015 Tel: 0898-23-7292

Chitose 552-7 Tomocho Tomo, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Pref. 720-0201 Tel: 084-982-3165

Nouvel Terroir 197-3 Machiya, Imabari City, Ehime Pref. 799-1514 Tel: 0898-47-4500

Taichoro 2 Tomocho Tomo, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Pref. 720-0201 Tel: 084-982-2705

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Tobeyaki Centre En-no-sato 359 Senzoku, Tobecho, Iyo-gun, Ehime Pref. 791-2122 Tel: 089-962-2070

Kamihaga Residence 2696 Uchiko, Uchikocho, Kita-gun, Ehime Pref. 791-3392 Tel: 0893-44-2771

Mikan Daifuku Zyugomangoku 20-23 Dogo-Yunomachi, Matsuyama City, Ehime Pref. 790-0842 Tel: 089-946-1844

Garyu Sanso 411-2 Ozu, Ozu City, Ehime Pref. 795-0012 Tel: 0893-24-3759 Iyonada Monogatari Tel: 087-825-1662 (for reservation) Souvenirs Tenugui towels and Lemon products Onomichi Eemonya 4-2 Toyohimotomachi, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Pref. 722-0034 Tel: 0848-20-8081

Besshi Ame Supermarket and souvenir shops in Ehime Pref.

Gessou Mochi Gessou Mochi Honpo 183 Ozu, Ozu City, Ehime Pref. 795-0012 Tel: 0893-24-2359 Sake (Yamatan Masamune) Yagi-Shuzobu 3-3-8 Asahimachi, Imabari City, Ehime Pref. 794-0042 Tel: 0898-22-6700

Keima Kamaboko 1-9-3 Tuchido, Onomichi City, Hiroshima Pref. 722-0035 Tel: 0848-25-2490

Tomisoba 485 Oominami, Tobecho, Iyo-gun, Ehime Pref. 791-2132 Tel: 089-962-2053

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Uchiko-za 2102 Uchiko, Uchikocho, Kita-gun, Ehime Pref. 791-3301 Tel: 0893-44-2840

Homeishu cake and Dried Sayori Tomonoura Tourist Information Centre 416 Tomocho Tomo, Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Pref. 720-0201 Tel: 084-982-3200

*Dial from Overseas to Japan +81 (Country code) Area code (omit first zero) Land phone number

Special Thanks: Tourism Division, Hiroshima Prefectural Government Fukuyama Conventions & Visitors Association Onomichi City Government International Affairs Division, Economic and Labour Department, Ehime Prefectural Government West Japan Railway Company

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Maguro-Donya Miura-Misaki-Kou

meaning red flesh. Coming from the back and the sides, this is the leanest part of the fish. Chutoro, which comes from the belly, is a mix of fatty and lean, while otoro, from the belly closer to the head, is the fattiest part of the fish—and the priciest. A fatty piece of otoro can look like a beautifully marbled slice of wagyu beef.

According to Masaki Watanabe, general manager of Maguro Donya Miura-Misaki-Kou in Suntec City, the size of the fish can also determine the fat content of otoro. For example, otoro from a fish that’s more than 140kg is fattier and has more marbling compared to a smaller, 80kg fish.

Most of the tuna that’s brought into Singapore is frozen in blocks, then carefully defrosted and served. It’s most commonly served raw as nigiri sushi or sashimi, but each restaurant may also have a special way to showcase this prized ingredient, such as aburi (blowtorched) or deep-fried as a cutlet.

Check out what these three restaurants here have to offer.

Sugisawa

TEXT SITI ROHANI PHOTOGRAPHY PETRER LEE STOCK PHOTO

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apan is the world’s largest consumer of tuna, or maguro. The fish’s deep red meat is so ubiquitous in Japanese restaurants that it has become synonymous with sushi and sashimi.

While there are several different kinds of tuna, the most coveted is the Bluefin—those gigantic specimens you read about whenever there’s a record sale at Tokyo’s Tsukiji market. This variety is often referred to as hon maguro, or true tuna.

These fish can grow upwards of 300kg. The most expensive hon maguro ever sold was a 278kg whopper that went for S$4.2 million at the first new year auction at Toyosu, Tokyo’s new fish market earlier this year. Other tuna varieties include yellowfin, albacore and bigeye tuna.

The best catch comes in winter when the fish are fattier; in warmer weather, they tend to grow longer and are less fatty.

Different parts of the fish yield different cuts and textures. The most abundant and therefore most affordable is akami,

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here are five outlets in Singapore under the Tomi Sushi brand, including an izakaya and a new concept sushi-and-sake bar. The brand started in 1954 in Niigata Prefecture, where it’s very popular. Chef Nishijo has worked for the company for 17 years and came to Singapore seven-and-a-half years ago to head this outlet in Novena.

Are your customers well versed in the

What’s special about the maguro you

What other special tuna dishes are

serve?

available here?

The Niigata head office chooses the best hon maguro whenever it’s available and sends it to us. We bring in about 50 to 60kg a week just for this particular outlet.

We offer maguro cheese cutlet, which is prepared by rolling akami tuna over cheese, dipping it in breadcrumbs and then fried. It’s traditionally served with miso vinaigrette but our customers prefer it with brown sauce.

Which part of Japan is the maguro from?

We have a maguro specialist that chooses the fish. It’s seasonal so the maguro comes from different ports around Japan, depending on where the best catch is.

different parts of the tuna?

Many of our customers are knowledgeable and know they want to eat chutoro or otoro. This could be because we organise a tuna festival two to three times a year, when we sell our maguro dishes at half price. Sometimes, customers also ask me what is the best maguro available that day and I advise them.

How would you describe good maguro?

else can the different parts of tuna be

It has to contain a certain amount of fat. I can feel the difference in texture just from holding it in my hands. A perfect piece of maguro will melt in your mouth.

used for?

What is your favourite way to eat

Otoro is good for aburi because it’s fatty.

Chutoro makes a good steak as it’s very versatile—just pan fry and serve it rare.

Akami is tasty served zuke, meaning it is marinated in soy sauce, mirin, sake and salt.

maguro?

Apart from sushi and sashimi, what

My favourite part of the fish is the nakaochi, which is the flesh that’s been scraped off the bone. I also like it as sashimi to go with drinks.

TOMONORI NISHIJO Head Chef, Tomi Sushi

Tomi Sushi is located at 238 Thomson Road, #02-76/77 Velocity @ Novena Square. Tel: 6255 2355 OISHII

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s a maguro supplier, the company manages the entire process of getting the fish from the sea to the plate. They started F&B operations 20 years ago and now have two restaurants in Singapore, 17 in Japan and two in the US. Chef Matsumoto has 20 years of experience, the last 10 of which have been in sushi restaurants. He feels that the most important quality a sushi chef must have is the desire to ensure customers enjoy their dining experience.

Tell us about the tuna you bring in.

TAKUYA MATSUMOTO Head Chef, Maguro-Donya Miura-Misaki-Kou

We get about 100 tonnes of maguro from the Mediterranean Sea every year. The fish is immediately super frozen (-60°C) and brought back to Japan, where we have our own factory to cut the fish into blocks and deliver to different restaurants.

What’s the benefit of this arrangement?

It ensures a stable supply of good quality

maguro. The fish are caught in winter, which is the best season for maguro, and we are able to store it in our special fridges to maintain the quality. We then use a special defrosting method by soaking the fish in salt water to make sure no liquid enters or leaves the tuna. We are confident the maguro will always be at its best and freshest condition with lots of fat.

What can customers expect when they dine here?

Stability and consistency are our strengths—diners are assured that our maguro is fresh and that we will always have enough otoro. We bring in about 60kg of maguro every week just for this outlet.

How would you describe good tuna?

It really depends on which part you enjoy.

I have noticed that Singaporean and Japanese customers have different preferences when it comes to their favourite maguro parts. Singaporeans like the fattier otoro while Japanese diners prefer the slightly less fatty chutoro. For local customers, we try to get meat from larger tuna as the otoro is fattier.

What are some of the most popular dishes?

The sashimi tower is very popular as it comes with five different parts of maguro, including the head and cheek, which are not so readily available at other restaurants. The otoro-don is also very good value because you get a lot of otoro slices.

Maguro-Donya Miura-Misaki-Kou is located at 3 Temasek Boulevard, #03-314 Suntec City Mall. Tel: 6684 5054

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stablished more than 27 years ago, the restaurant was taken over by new owners in 2017 when the original chef-owner retired. The current chef, Lee, has more than 18 years’ experience in Japanese restaurants and has worked at Sugisawa for a year and a half, alongside a Japanese okami (restaurant manager) who runs the outlet while ensuring customer satisfaction.

How much maguro do you bring in

What makes the maguro you serve here

What are some of the things you have

special?

to keep in mind while cutting the fish?

We are unique as we bring in fresh maguro, which is very difficult to get in Singapore. We have a maguro supplier that chooses the best fish for us from a fish market in Japan. Japanese maguro is the best—the chutoro is fatty and the akami has a springy texture.

It’s not easy because the bone is thick and hard so I have to concentrate. I trained a lot to master the technique. It’s also very important to pay attention to hygiene.

How fast do you get it delivered?

Once we put in an order, our supplier gets it from the market the next day, after which it is flown direct to us.

Is there a difference in taste between

LEE KAR SENG Chef, Sugisawa Japanese Restaurant & Bar

fresh and frozen tuna?

Of course! The texture is different and fresh tuna also tastes sweeter.

Sugisawa Japanese Restaurant & Bar is located at 30 Robertson Quay, #01-16 Riverside View. Tel: 6235 0212

every week?

We bring in about 10kg of maguro twice a week to ensure freshness. And every two months, we bring in a whole fish for our tuna-cutting demonstration. The fish I’m cutting today weighs about 35kg, which is enough to feed 100 people. It’s a unique event because most people don’t get to see a whole tuna being cut, not even in Japan.

What special maguro dishes do you serve here?

On top of sushi and sashimi, we also serve bakudan, which is chopped tuna with natto, lady’s finger, kimchi, grated yam and raw egg. The ingredients are mixed together, then wrapped in seaweed. It’s a traditional dish served in sushi restaurants across Japan. Customers can also order maguro dishes that are not on the menu. For example, we don’t have nigiri sushi on the menu but we can make it if it is ordered.

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Sugisawa Japanese Restaurant & Bar Established twenty-eight years ago in Singapore, we pride ourselve in serving good-quality Japanese food like sashimi, bento sets, sushi, as well as having a good selection of izakaya dishes.

Enjoy in our your meal in our relaxed atmosphere.

FREEPIK.COM

FRE

Fresh sashimi are imported twice a week direct from Japan.

We imp SH MAGU o twice a rt about 10kg RO! of Magu week to Every tw ro e o mont nsure freshne h ss. s , we con demons tration duct live of fish cut whole tuna ting.

Sugisawa Japanese Restaurant & Bar 30 Robertson Quay, #01-16 Riverside View, Singapore 238251 Tel: 6235 0212 Mon to Fri: 5.30pm to 11pm

Opening hours Sat and Sun: 11:30am to 2:30pm / 5.30pm to 11:00pm

COOL BITES

Here’s a TIP A unique art project has resulted in Yuki Tatsumi collecting some 15,000 intricately folded chopstick wrappers.

TEXT SITI ROHANI PHOTOGRAPHY MARIKO YASAKA, YUKI TATSUMI

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wenty-eight-year-old Yuki Tatsumi was working as a waiter in a restaurant in 2012 when he came across something interesting while clearing a table. “A customer had folded the chopstick sleeve into a nice shape and under the restaurant’s spotlight, it looked like a sculpture,” he said.

That was the beginning of Tatsumi’s art project—called Japanese Tip—as he began collecting these paper wrappers folded into origami art. He considers them to be “tips” left behind by grateful customers as a way to show appreciation to the restaurant and its staff.

Tatsumi even went on a year-long road trip around Japan in 2016 to persuade restaurant owners to keep an eye out for these tiny paper sculptures and send him unique ones. He has since collected some 15,000 pieces, all kept in boxes in his home and in a storage facility.

From the moment he started, he had always wanted to bring this project overseas to see non-Japanese reactions to this unique cultural phenomenon. “It is a Japanese practice in which people fold their chopstick wrappers into art after dinner and then leave them at the restaurant. I wanted to share it with the world and I wanted to see how people would react,” he said.

He has since staged a few exhibitions, namely in Tokyo, Paris and Cheongju in South Korea. There are also plans to bring it to China.

According to Tatsumi, visitors to his Paris show were completely puzzled by the idea of chopstick wrapper origami as they don’t use chopsticks. Korean visitors, on the other hand, were surprised at the design, colour and variety of chopstick sleeves in Japan.

Tatsumi has never thrown a single paper sculpture away because he feels each one has a story. He also doesn’t like to prioritise which design is better, preferring to categorise them into three groups: most favourite, favourite and okay. To choose the ones that make it into a particular exhibition, he selects from the first two categories.

While there’s no clear theme among the pieces, most are of certain shapes like dogs or cranes. He tends to lean towards the more abstract pieces, as they can be interpreted in different ways.

His personal favourites have also made it into a book called Japanese Tip – Soul of Japan on the Table. He published 300 copies himself in 2017 before working with a publisher who released it last year.

“I put together the book because I felt that the number of chopstick wrappers was

declining as restaurants become more eco-conscious,” he said.

Tatsumi, who’s based in Kyoto, refers to himself as a collector-researcher. He juggles several other roles, including as a web director, a researcher at a Kyoto museum, and a committee member of an art festival, which has given him a grant for his next project.

He is working on several new projects, including collecting used books with plans to start a second-hand bookshop. He also collects chewing-gum wrappers and maps out where they come from.

Tatsumi hasn’t stopped collecting these unique “tips” just yet, though.

Restaurant owners still send him photos of chopstick wrapper art and if he likes it, he asks for it to be delivered.

He said: “By presenting the chopsticks in a paper wrapper, restaurants show they welcome and care for the customer. By folding the wrapper into art before leaving, customers appreciate the restaurant’s time and food. This is really unique. You don’t find it anywhere else in the world.”

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RECIPE

CABBAGE in every way

Cocopelli Presents

Shredded cabbage

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INGREDIENTS Japanese spring cabbage, as much as you require METHOD 1. Peel off as many cabbage leaves as you need.

2. Remove the core of the leaves with a kitchen knife.

Cut the leaves into halves, length-wise.

3. Lay two pieces flat on top of each other and roll them up together.

4. Press down on the leaves and chop finely.

5. Soak in cold water for 2–3 minutes, then drain excess water in a colander.

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ou may not know it but Japanese cabbage comes in many varieties: spring, summer (found in cooler climates like Hokkaido) and winter. Today, I am sharing more on spring cabbage, which is softer and fluffier.

To choose the right spring cabbage, pick it up.

The lighter it feels, the better it is. Also, gently squeeze the cabbage to feel the “space” between the leaf layers. There should be more “space”, hence air, to indicate that the vegetable is very fluffy. Lastly, choose a brighter yellow-green one as it will be sweeter and juicer.

On the contrary, winter cabbage should feel heavy in your hand and it should have a light green colour.

Cabbage is rich in vitamins C and K, as well as the lesser-known vitamin U, which is said to help with acid reflux and gastric ulcers.

As cabbage is so nutritious, do not overcook it or it will lose its vitamins. Instead, eat it raw in a salad.

Soak the leaves quickly in cold water to make them crisp, but don’t oversoak them or the nutrients will leach into the water.

There is a simple and popular Japanese recipe for cabbage salad: Just chop the leaves finely and drizzle salad dressing over them. This is usually eaten with a fried meat dish like tonkatsu.

I have also shared a recipe for spring cabbage coleslaw. Mayonnaise is often used as a dressing in coleslaw, but I did not use any because I wanted the natural flavour of the cabbage to stand out. I chose grapefruit and corn as the ingredients in this salad because the sweetness of corn, the sourness of grapefruit and the freshness of cabbage make such a lovely combination.

Cabbage is suitable for soups as its nutrients will seep in. But throw in the leaves of the softer spring cabbage only at the last minute, so that they don’t turn mushy.

Or try my recipe for simmered clams with cabbage. In Japan, clams are in season in spring. If you buy konbu (kelp) as a sheet in its entirety, cut it into thin strips before adding them to the pan. So as you can see, cabbage is truly a versatile and interesting vegetable to work with!

TEXT PEARLYN THAM RECIPES COCOPELLI RECIPES FREEPIK.COM

Certified Professional Vegetable Sommelier and Athlete Food Meister Mikiko Mogami shares her recipes for this versatile and vitamin-rich vegetable.

RECIPE

Simmered clams with cabbage

INGREDIENTS (4 servings) 300g clams ½ cabbage 400ml water 5g shredded konbu (kelp) 1 tbsp soy sauce ½ tsp grated ginger METHOD 1. Soak the clams in water to remove sand. Scrub the shells and wash them.

2. Chop up the cabbage.

3. Put water and konbu into a pan and turn on heat. When the water boils, turn down the heat to medium and add the clams. Remove the clams when the shells open and set aside.

4. Add the cabbage and boil briskly. Then add the soy sauce and ginger.

5. Place the clams back in the pan, warm gently and serve on a dish.

Spring cabbage coleslaw

INGREDIENTS (4 servings) ½ spring cabbage ½ grapefruit 1 tsp salt ★ 2 tbsp vegetable oil ★ 2 tbsp vinegar ★ 1 tbsp sugar ★ Small amount pepper 100g boiled corn METHOD 1. Cut the cabbage into 5mm strips. Peel the grapefruit and cut into bite-size pieces.

2. Place cabbage strips in a bowl, sprinkle with salt, mix together and leave for about 10 minutes.

3. Add starred ingredients (★) to a separate bowl and mix together.

4. Squeeze out the moisture from the cabbage. Add the cabbage, grapefruit and corn to the mixture.

5. Mix everything together thoroughly and serve on a dish.

ABOUT MIKIKO MOGAMI Mikiko Mogami is a renowned Certified Professional Vegetable Sommelier and Athlete Food Meister from Akita Prefecture. She creates menus and advises athletes on their nutritional needs when they are competing. Mogami is a keen advocate for including more vegetables in our diet and regularly contributes articles on the subject. She also presents lectures and conducts TV and radio interviews. Her motto is to help everyone enjoy vegetables and eat well. Mogami works with Cocopelli, a brand that promotes produce from Akita Prefecture to the rest of Japan. She helps to create recipes that showcase the wholesome products. All Cocopelli products are carefully selected to reflect the beliefs and passions of the people who produce them. Website: http://azuma-trading.co.jp/cocopelli OISHII

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F L AV O U R

SHUN: Best in Season

Shiro Ichigo, white Strawberries, is recent invention in Japan debut in 2009. When the seeds turn into red, it’s time to eat. Some are even sweeter and fragrant than red ones.

PUBLISHER Takeshi NAITO MEDIA JAPAN PTE LTD 4 Leng Kee Road #04-12 SiS Building Singapore 159088 Tel: +65 6748 1822 E-mail: oishii@mediajapan.sg Website: www.oishii.sg EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Chiharu KUWAJIMA EDITORIAL PARTNER Unicorn Publishing DESIGNERS Emily Ng Gina Ang PHOTOGRAPHERS Japan: Chisato Nyunoya Singapore: Raymond Toh Peter Lee PRINTED IN SINGAPORE NPE Print Communications Pte Ltd

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