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A Steamy Story
SOY FAR SOY GOOD This is worth the dip
Turn to p32 now!
LOVE LOBSTER? Then you’ll love Chef Tetsuya’s take on the lobster thermidor
Hok k aido
LIKE YOU’VE NEVER SEEN IT Where, exactly, can you find the really good food?
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A Journey Back In Time
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KI’ NAGASA
GASAKI’S ST
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A must-see for every visitor to Nagasaki, the Battleship Island, Gunkanjima, is a treat for both history buffs and shutterbugs.
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f you’ve always found abandoned settlements hauntingly beautiful, Nagasaki’s Gunkanjima is the definitive destination for just that. Located 20 kilometers from Nagasaki, visitors are allowed on the island only if they follow a permitted tour group. The tour - led by Japanese-speaking guides - takes you to three observation decks built by the government. Don’t understand Japanese? Not to worry: You’ll be given a recorded audio guide in your preferred language. The beauty of Gunkanjima first reveals itself as your ferry approaches its stony facade. From afar, its concrete buildings and seawalls give the island its famous “battleship” shape. Against a ©G unk anj ima Con cie rge backdrop of stormy seas and grey clouds, you can’t help but look at the island in awe and imagine the lives led on it by its former residents before it was officially closed in 1974. Formally named Hashima, the island came into prominence for its coal mines. When Mitsubishi bought it in 1890, the island became home to the Pho to miners, growing into a fully self-sufficient residential area with its own tak en in the 195 0s restaurants, schools, hospital and police station. At its peak, the island, measuring just 160 meters wide and 480 meters long, housed 5,300 people, earning it the fame of having the highest population density in history worldwide. That in 2013, Google sent an To withstand the typhoons’ attacks, buildings and high seawalls were built using concrete. Gunkanjima was home to Japan’s first apartment building - a block employee with a Street View nine-storeys high. backpack to capture the island in Visitors are not allowed to venture beyond the viewing docks for safety panoramic 360-degree view. The reasons. Years of disuse and exposure to the elements have led to significant tech giant also used its Business decay and ageing of the buildings and mining structures. But it is its status as a Photos technology to let users look modern industrial heritage site that has enabled the island to reenter the inside the abandoned buildings. On consciousness of Japan and the world. Google Street View, Gunkanjima is The island was featured in History Channel’s Life After People to now the fifth-most visited place in show how quickly buildings fall into decay after just 35 years of human the world among Asian countries. absence. The desolated appearance of the island also inspired the James rge Bond film Skyfall. While the filmmakers were able to film the exterior of ©G unk anj ima Con cie the island, they had recreate its interior using CGI and film sets. A movement is currently underway to have Gunkanjima listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Supporters believe that the island should be preserved for its undisturbed remains of the housing complex that are representative from Meiji to Showa periods, and for the role the island played in Japan’s rapid industrialisation and Pho to tak en in 201 4 modernisation processes. If you’ve always wanted to enter a “lost world”, a trip to For more information on Gunkanjima landing tour, log on to Gunkanjima is definitely a must.
DID YOU KNOW?
http://www.gunkanjima-concierge.com/en
contents
02 04 06
09
New Year, New Beginnings
38
Experience eye-opening
history behind one of Asian
From Mr & Mrs Igarashi’s Modern Kitchen: Shio-Lemon
dining rituals and check out
cuisine’s most versatile
Food consultants Go and
cool festivals during this time
seasonings: shoyu
Yukari Igarashi talk about this
of the year
A Year of Good Food
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The Joy of Soy Discover the interesting
A New Classic Twist Chef Tetsuya Wakuda, famed
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trendy new ingredient
Candy Wonderland
Can’t-miss Japanese food
for his European-Japanese
events all over the world.
creations, shares a lobster dish
candy-inspired artwork by
inspired by the festive colours
artist Osamu Watanabe.
Confessions of a Chocolate Nut
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of the Japanese new year.
future plans for Awfully Good
The Hidden Secrets of Northern Hokkaido & Sapporo
To Go – and it involves Japan!
This place is a treasure trove of
Lyn Lee of Awfully Chocolate spills the beans about her
Enter the whimsical world of
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surprises, from fresh produce
32
to beautiful wilderness
A Steamy Story One pot, three ways – learn more about the different types
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of Japanese hotpots
Get The Scoop On The Shamoji Who would have thought that behind this traditional tool lies a heartwarming story?
© OSAMU WATANABE
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opening notes
Visiting a shrine on New Year’s Day
Kagami mochi
Osechi, which is prepared well before the start of the festivities
NEW YEAR, New Beginnings
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f all the numerous holidays and festivals in Japan that take place through the year, perhaps the most significant of all is New Year (known as Shogatsu or Oshogatsu). During this period, businesses are closed from the end of December to the beginning of January, and people from all over Japan would return to their hometowns to spend time with family and friends.
FOOD, GLORIOUS FOOD Unsurprisingly, many Japanese New Year traditions centre around communal eating. Around 11pm on New Year’s Eve, members of the family will gather around to have a bowl of Toshikoshisoba to symbolise longevity and the crossing over of one year to the next. These noodles are usually eaten with kamaboko (boiled fish cake), spinach, aburaage (fried beancurd) and tenkasu (tempura bits). All the Toshikoshi-soba that’s been prepared has to be finished as it’s considered bad luck to leave any of it behind. This simple dish is usually enjoyed while watching a national television show that features some of Japan’s best-loved singers and performing artistes. A few days before New Year’s Day,
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families would also gather together to prepare Osechi, a traditional meal kept in boxes. Osechi is prepared in advance for a couple of reasons: The first is so that the women can enjoy a few days of respite from their usual duties, and also because some people consider it unlucky to work on the first few days of the new year. The dishes in the Osechi are imbued with significance, too. Daidai, or Japanese bitter orange symbolise good wishes for children in the coming year, while Datemaki (sweet rolled omelette) mark auspiciousness for all. Kamaboko (boiled fish cake) is usually arranged in alternating red and white patterns to signify Japan as the land of the rising sun, while Konbu (seaweed) and Kuro-mame (black soy beans) connote joy and health respectively. Ebi (prawns) are usually skewered and cooked with sake and soy sauce to symbolise longevity, while Nishiki tamago (egg roulade) symbolises wealth and good fortune. Mochi (rice cakes) are also an integral part of the Japanese New Year. In particular, a special variety known as Kagami mochi is prepared for this time of the year. It consists of two cakes – with the smaller placed atop of the
larger – with a Daidai and a leaf placed on top. These two discs of Mochi can mean many things: The human heart; the balance of “yin” and “yang; or the moon and the sun. Kagami means “mirror”, and in Shinto, this represents God. This Mochi is usually left at the home’s Shinto shrine, and is broken and eaten in a Shinto ritual known as Kagami biraki (mirror opening) mostly on the 11th or 15th of January. Ozoni – a soup containing Mochi – is considered the most auspicious of all dishes that’s consumed at this time of the year. This dish was an important aspect of samurai food culture from around the 14th century, but it eventually became a staple dish of the common people. The preparation of ozoni differs greatly from region to region. In the Kanto region (East), for instance, the soup is flavoured using a stock made with dried bonito or Kombu, while in Kansai (West), the soup is usually made using a white miso. We highly recommend paying Japan a visit during this time of the year. Not only will you be able to partake in some amazing dining rituals, there are also many games to be played and festivities to be enjoyed, making for a truly memorable trip!
TEXT DENISE LI IMAGES FROM LEFT TO RIGHT 1079738 | shizuruPHOTO • 3877423 | photojam • 6271975 | alphatec • WWW.PIXTASTOCK.COM
With its festive, celebratory atmosphere, and lots of great food to be had, the start of the year is one of the best times to pay Japan a visit.
events
A Year of Good Food In the spirit of re-invention, Japanese F&B industries bring their latest innovations to the world in these must-visit events.
Supermarket Trade Show 10 to 12 February 2015
TOKYO, JAPAN
80,000 professional supermarket buyers from across the globe will gather at this trade show, which features unique products from all over the world.
Caterex Japan 17 to 20 February 2015
Wine & Gourmet Japan 15 to 17 April 2015
TOKYO, JAPAN
The event in 2014 hosted over 74,000 trade visitors from Japan, with 181 exhibitors from 22 countries around the world, 78 exhibitors from Japan. Here, you’ll be able to preview wine and gourmet foods from all over the world, sweets and confectionery, as well as find out more about food supplies and services in Japan.
TOKYO, JAPAN
With an international demand for Japanese food, this exhibition showcases the latest in hospitality, food service and catering industries.
MOBAC Show 18 to 21 February 2015
TOKYO, JAPAN
MOBAC Show is the only specialised general exhibition in Japan for the bakery and confectionery industries. It aims to promote the development of new technologies and products by showcasing the latest raw materials, packaging and food processing machinery, as well as other equipment and tools related to baking and confectionery.
Expo Milano 1 May to October 31 2015
MILAN, ITALY
The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries, and the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry of Japan will send representatives to participate in Expo Milano 2015, which is expected to see over 20 million visitors. The theme of this year’s expo is “Harmonious Diversity”, where issues such as food security will be discussed. Japan aims to propose its food culture as a good example of a healthy, sustainable and balanced diet.
TOKYO, JAPAN International Food Ingredients & Additives Exhibition and Conference 20 to 22 May 2015
Japan’s largest event dedicated solely to food additives and ingredients industries, 2015 marks the exhibition’s 20th year. Due to a sharp increase in raw food materials in recent years, interest among buyers for additives and alternative ingredients – including supplements and organic products - are at an all-time high.
Foodex Japan 3 to 6 March 2015
TOKYO, JAPAN
Asia’s largest food and beverage trade show, Foodex Japan attracts exhibitors from 78 countries and regions, as well as 80,000 professional buyers, providing invaluable business matching opportunities and access to diverse sales channels.
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World Halal Gourmet Expo 14 to 16 August 2015
SINGAPORE
This event will showcase the best brands, finest gourmet produce, skills of renowned practitioners and a wide array of Halal food products while providing a platform for customers and practitioners alike to take part in culinary competitions and sharing of best practices.
interview
Confessions Of A
CHOCOLATE NUT
Lyn Lee, founder of Awfully Chocolate, reckons the local F&B services industry still has a long way to go before we are on par with our Japanese counterparts.
“Chocolates and cold weather go amazingly well together.” 6
the F&B services industry in Singapore. Whenever I visit Japan, I am constantly floored by the professionalism and honour to which the locals give their jobs, regardless of what they are doing. I say that, because I once stood mesmerised watching a car valet carrying out his duties in the snow – the way he put 110 percent into it, you’d think he was a CEO. Where do you get that kind of work ethic? From as early as nursery education, schoolchildren in Japan are taught to clean up their own desks at the end of each day! That is one shining example of how you cultivate a healthy sense of pride in even the humblest of jobs; it all has to start with the basics. Incidentally, I was in Tokyo and Osaka recently for a short but lovely two-day business trip, during which I met up with a couple of chocolatiers and visited six chocolate factories. We have a FMCG (fast-moving consumer goods) range of chocolates called Awfully Good To Go, which is currently available in supermarkets in Singapore and Hong Kong. We’re now targeting the European market, which, as we know, is home to some of the world’s finest chocolates. This is why our next step for Awfully Good To Go is for it to wear a distinctly Asian identity so it would stand out from other brands in Europe – and I believe we will be able to achieve that by working with Japanese manufacturers. They represent everything I love about Japan, from their meticulous attention to detail and excellent service to their remarkably fresh produce. We are still in talks with some of the manufacturers, so stay tuned!
TEXT TAN LI LI
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t all started out with a bunch of us hanging out and chatting about our respective jobs, having just entered the workforce not too long ago at the time. Being the chocolate nut that I am, I had this idea of the perfect chocolate cake – one that we could eat every day without ever getting sick of it. One conversation led to another then, one day, we decided to put our words into action. That was, in essence, how Awfully Chocolate was born in 1998. None of us were trained in F&B, retail or hospitality before (although I’d like to consider chocolate-tasting my area of expertise!), but we refused to let our inexperience hold us back. We combined our different talents and skills together, and found ourselves doing things in a very non-conventional way – which was perhaps why people noticed us in the first place. Who else would open a cake shop without displaying the one product they offer? To this day, I still think that for a group of friends with zero background in this industry, we were pretty bold in our choices – though our choices had always made sense to us. Prior to Awfully Chocolate, I was a lawyer for two years. People always ask me if it was a difficult transition from corporate to entrepreneurship but, to be frank, it felt like an absolutely joyous leap. I’m grateful for having studied law, of course. Apart from not being as intimidated by contracts, you develop this yearning to find out how to decide upon fair, correct answers. You can’t simply accept things at face value. So when something doesn’t seem right – for instance, if certain clauses in a contract appear unreasonable or unnecessary – I have no qualms speaking up. Law school has been good for that. But above and beyond clauses and fair treatment, I believe there’s something else that needs to be addressed in
flavours
TEXT TAN LILI IMAGE 9059144 | prof1649 • WWW.PIXTASTOCK.COM
The Joy of
Take a dip in this distinctly Asian seasoning, and learn more about other types of shoyu beyond the ubiquitous koikuchi.
S
oy sauce, or shoyu in Japanese, is a condiment so ingrained in Asian cooking, you’d be hardpressed not to find at least one bottle of it lying around in the kitchen. Rich, savoury and with a certain burst that lingers on your palate, shoyu is one of the best examples to describe the elusive fifth taste – umami. The versatile seasoning is considered a mainstay in oriental cuisine, used during cooking as well as at the table to enhance the flavour of the food. Shoyu is said to be introduced to Japan in the 7th century by Buddhist monks from China, where soy sauce originated between the 3rd and 5th centuries. Shoyu manufacturing in Japan harks back to the 1600s, but it was only during the late Edo period (1603-1867) when shoyu was announced as one of the two major food manufacturing industries in Japan (the other is sake) - likely because of the rapidly growing urban culture in Edo (ancient name of Tokyo). Shoyu is, in essence, produced from fermented soybeans. Using a production method that’s interestingly near-similar to that of sake, the standardisation of the shoyu formula - soybeans, roasted wheat, and microorganisms like yeast and bacteria - was only set around 1716. This formula is what sets shoyu apart from soy sauce in China, as the former uses a significantly larger proportion of wheat which, in turn, results in a slightly sweeter sauce. There are, of course, other variations of shoyu with different production techniques. Small amounts of alcohol are added to some to serve as a natural preservative to prolong the shelf life of the much-loved seasoning; some are aged beyond six months (the duration it takes for shoyu to mature, typically) so as to enhance their flavour. There are five main categories of shoyu in Japan, each bearing a distinct flavour due to their ingredients and production methods. For this feature, we will explore the three more commonly used ones: koikuchi shoyu, usukuchi shoyu, and tamari shoyu.
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ake a walk down a Japanese grocery store, and you will certainly find shoyu brands like Kikkoman and Yamasa. Those are koikuchi, which is simply referred to as shoyu in Japan (though it’s better known to the Western counterparts as dark soy sauce). An interesting history lesson here: Even though tamari was the first shoyu produced in Japan back in the 16th century (more about tamari, on p11), a new recipe for shoyu was created during the Edo period around 1700, by increasing the amount of wheat to match the amount of soybeans in its formula. This resulted in the birth of koikuchi, a robust flavoured shoyu with a pronounced aroma that was about to become a game-changer in the realm of soy sauce. With the rapid development of Edo and the industrialisation of manufacturing processes, coupled with the fact that a simple condiment is able to greatly enhance the flavours of non-expensive food items, koikuchi very quickly earned its reputation as an indispensable ingredient in Japanese cooking. Today, koikuchi makes up more than 80 percent of Japanese domestic soy sauce production and consumption. Given its popularity and richly layered flavours, it comes as no surprise that koikuchi makes a great all-purpose seasoning, be it for dipping, marinading, or cooking.
The Joy of Soy
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rimarily used in the Kansai region of Japan, usukuchi has a lighter colour than koikuchi, and is the second most popular shoyu in the country. Despite its light colour, usukuchi is actually saltier (18%-19% salt volume) than its ubiquitous counterpart (16% salt volume). Usukuchi is also made with soybeans and roasted wheat, except the latter is lightly roasted so as to keep the flavour mild. Plus, it boasts the addition of mirin, a sweet rice wine that gives the sauce its slightly sweet flavour. In terms of production methods, usukuchi has a relatively shorter fermentation window, which adds to its unique mellowness. Historically, usukuchi was used in refined imperial court cooking - koikuchi was deemed a common condiment for the masses at the time. Today, because of its delicate flavour and light colour, usukuchi is often the shoyu of choice when it comes to preserving the natural colours of ingredients (koikuchi darkens the colours), like those in braised dishes and soups. A common misconception about usukuchi lies in its label. Known as light soy sauce, particularly in the West, usukuchi is often mistaken to be a healthier alternative to koikuchi. The word “light”, however, merely refers to the colour and nothing else!
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The Joy of Soy
Tamari
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riginated in the Chubu region of Japan, tamari is often considered the original Japanese soy sauce as its recipe is most similar to that of traditional Chinese soy sauce. Its beginnings can be traced back to the 16th century, as a liquid by-product during the fermentation of miso. At the time, it was completely free of wheat. Today, some if not most tamari contains traces of wheat, but it is still the preferred choice of shoyu for the health-conscious because of its low to zero wheat content (if you are allergic to wheat, always check the ingredients list as not all tamari is gluten-free). Tamari has a high viscosity (thick, sticky consistency) and is even darker in colour than koikuchi. Its high soybean content gives it its incredibly complex, well-rounded flavour, minus the sometimes overwhelming bite that accompanies other types of shoyu. At the same time, it is less salty, which also lends to tamari’s status as a natural flavour enhancer. The versatility of tamari makes it an ideal dipping sauce for sashimi, as well as the finishing touch to add colour and shine to food like teriyaki dishes.
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MOTSU NABE is a hot pot made from Motsu(offal). This makes you fit and healthy as it is containing lots of nutritious vegetables such as Chinese leek,enoki mushroom, tofu and cabbage which works well for your stomach&intestines. Motsu Nabe is the one brings you much collagen to bright your skin and health. It has no chemical additive.
JAPANESE RESTAURANT GOKU 33 Mohamed Sultan Road #01-02 S238977 TEL 6735-4232 Opening Hours 18:00 to 2:00 (Closed on Sundays.) http://www.uppct.com/motsunabegoku/home/
artistic
creation
A New Classic
CHEF TETSUYA WAKUDA Hailed by The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide as “one of our (Australia) most successful exponents of fusion cuisine”, Chef Tetsuya is known for his EuropeanJapanese creations. In 2010, Tetsuya opened Waku Ghin at The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands to exceptional reviews.
Waku Ghin is located at L2-01, Atrium 2, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands. Tel: 6688 8507.
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TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION
“W
hat makes me happy? I love fishing. The night before any fishing trips, I’d be too excited to sleep! I’d think about what equipment to bring, what rods to use, etc. I also buy a lot of unnecessary things to support this hobby. Like fishing, the biggest joy I get from cooking is when I’m conceptualising a dish. Thinking about it makes me excited and fills me with a kind of creative energy that makes me feel alive. I’d play out the steps of making the dish in my head and, at the same time, think about the ingredients to use. And, when I finally make the dish and it turns out better than expected, I’m happy. This dish is classic but done my way. It takes its inspiration from the lobster thermidor with a base sauce containing some mustard. The lobster meat is grilled and then mixed with the sauce. I layer the flesh over a poached egg yolk on top of a bed of rocket leaves and wakame. Next, I drizzle the dish with a sauce made from lobster stock and a few drops of soy sauce. Finally, shaved white truffles go on top of the entire dish. When I create a dish, it’s the ingredient that is the most important. I love exploring markets - big or small - as it’s ultimately about the ingredient. This dish uses lobster because, when cooked, it has the festive colours Japanese associate with the new year - red and white. Another reason I chose lobster is that lobster is very popular with our customers at Waku Ghin. That, and abalone and caviar. I think the restaurant is the biggest consumer of caviar we go through about 100kg of it a year!
The Hidden Secrets of
NORTHERN HOKKAIDO & SAPPORO
TEXT VANESSA TAI PHOTOGRAPHY SHIGERU YUYAMA
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lthough Hokkaido is the largest of the 47 prefectures in Japan, it also remains one of the least developed parts of the country. But therein lies its charm. Spectacular scenery is spread out for miles and miles around, giving you the distinct feeling of having entered some sort of unsullied natural paradise. It’s no wonder then that Hokkaido attracts plenty of outdoor lovers all year round – from skiers and snowboarders during the colder months to cyclists and campers in Summer and Spring. Travellers to Hokkaido usually start their journey at its capital, Sapporo. The bustling city serves as a good base to orientate yourself on the food and culture of the North, before venturing out to the great outdoors. To fully experience the majestic splendour of nature, make your way to Northern Hokkaido. This is where you’ll find Hokkaido’s largest national park, Daisetsuzan, which is a mountainous area of unspoiled wilderness that is larger than even some of the smaller prefectures in Japan. This is typically the first place in Japan to see autumn colours and snow each year, and is a veritable paradise for outdoor and wildlife enthusiasts. Onsen lovers will also be well taken care of, with the many beautiful and well-preserved onsen towns dotted around the area. Of course, Northern Hokkaido and Sapporo have much more to offer than just scenery. Its unique and diverse cuisine is the stuff legends are made of. Even travellers who’ve not been to Hokkaido would have heard tales of its fresh, succulent seafood. But the depth and breadth of Northern Hokkaido and Sapporo cuisine extends much further than just seafood, as you’ll see over the next few pages. However, the thing that truly makes Northern Hokkaido exceptional is its people. The residents of the various cities and townships display a fierce pride in their heritage and culture, and are often more than happy to share this joy with visitors. One visit is never enough; you’ll want to return again and again simply to bask in the beauty and tranquility of the region.
道北 札幌 Wakkanai •Bifuka •Nayoro •Horokanai Sapporo
Asahikawa
•Biei
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feature
The Most Northern Famous Dish From
Hokkaido
A visit to the northern regions of Hokkaido would be imcomplete without tasting this unique dish. Jin-gisu-kan (also known as Genghis Khan Nabe) is especially popular in North Hokkaido. Served in a cast iron skillet or pan, this is a one-dish meal that includes thin slices of marinated mutton, assorted vegetables and beancurd, as well as udon. Origins of Genghis Khan Nabe There are several theories as to how this dish got its name. Some people believe the name stems from being a favourite of the great Mongol Emperor, while others reckon it could be because the myth of Japanese and Mongolians share a similar ancestry. The truth is, the dish only gained traction after the First World War when the Japanese government set up initiatives to increase the production of wool. The people from the northern countryside were encouraged to rear more sheep to support these initiatives. From there, the residents of Hokkaido began eating the meat of the sheep after shearing their wool.
There are many different recipes for the marinade, but the recipe often used by the 746 Genghis Khan Troupe (mentioned later) is a tantalising blend of soy sauce, smashed onions, carrots, apples, honey, ginger, and a particular type of Korean spicy sauce. The style of cooking employed by the people in Nayoro differs slightly from their Sapporo counterparts. In Sapporo, people usually barbeque the meat whereas in Nayoro, the meat is stewed together with the ingredients and marinade, creating a more soup-like dish. 746 Genghis Khan Troupe The 746 Genghis Khan Troupe is a group of Nayoro locals who banded together to create a more vibrant scene for their city. (746 is pronounced
Na-Yo-Ro in Japanese). After winning an award for their recipe, the group decided to step up their efforts in promoting Nayoro City. Genghis Khan Nabe is now recognised as a Heritage Dish by the Hokkaido government and the group regularly travels around Japan to promote the dish. They are currently expanding their repertoire by selling pre-packaged marinated meats.
So how does it taste? Full-bodied, rustic, and hearty; it’s easy to see why this is a popular dish in the wintry north. While mutton may not be everyone’s favourite meat, this dish doesn’t have a strong gamey flavour, probably because the meat is so thinly sliced. On particularly cold nights, a steaming hot bowl of Jin-gisu-kan stew hits the spot.
Food
Eats
Northern Hokkaido & Sapporo: Treasure Trove of Great The northernmost prefecture of Japan is perhaps best known for its fresh seafood, but its sumptuous cuisine extends to much more than that. Battle of the Best
Shoga Ramen Mizuno (right) is arguably the most popular ramen shop in Asahikawa; the walls of the small but cosy restaurant are plastered with autographs from celebrities and dignitaries alike. Their most popular dish is the Shoga Ramen, which comes with smashed shoga(ginger) blended into the broth, lending the dish a spicy punch. Menya Saimi (left) is another beloved ramen shop, located in Sapporo City. The broth served here is made with pork bones cooked over low heat for five hours, which makes it clearer and less dense than its other Sapporo counterparts. Each bowl of ramen also comes with servings of minced pork and stir-fried bean sprouts for added fragrance and texture. A serving of smashed ginger is also added atop the soup – you may dissolve it immediately into the soup, which helps cut through the grease of the char-grilled cha shu, or you can save it for later, for a refreshing twist to your meal.
Best of Biei Tentoro Soba Here’s a fun fact: the owner of Hachiemon Soba is not originally from Horokanai but he liked the soba from the area so much, he decided to move here to open a soba restaurant. Which was a great move, because his inventive soba creations have earned him one Hokkaido Michelin star. Some popular creations include Tentoro (cold soba paired with shrimp and vegetable tempura, topped with fresh yam) and Duck and Negi Hot Soba, which comes with pan-fried slices of duck meat and Japanese leek.
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Want to taste the best of the region’s produce? Nestled in the beautiful hills of Biei, Biei Senka is great for tourists who want to stop for a spot of shopping. Just a simple stroll around the complex will instantly put you at ease, with the proliferation of fresh and dried flowers as well as the abundance of natural light. This contemporary complex comprises a farmers’ market, restaurant, cafe, and boulangerie. When you dine at the restaurant Asperges, be sure to try its signature dish – the 20-Vegetable Salad. As its name suggests, this colourful dish comes with 20 different vegetables, all freshly picked and bursting with flavour. After your meal, take sometime to
visit the other outlets within the complex. The bread, pastries, and other baked goods sold at the boulangerie are all made with top-quality wheat flour from Biei. This wheat flour is the secret behind the fragrance and amazing moisture of the baked goods. Some must-buy items from the farmers’ market include the locally produced rice, potatoes, and cider. End your day with a refreshing strawberry smoothie from the cafe or an oh-sodelicious soft serve ice cream (made with Hokkaido-produced milk, of course).
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Food
feature
Sapporo Fish Market
Magic Spice Soup Step into Magic Spice Soup and you’ll be forgiven for thinking you’re in a restaurant in India. The two-storey restaurant is decorated with a mishmash of Hindu and Bob Marley paraphernalia, with music that sounds vaguely reggae. Given the ambience, you would think the owner is a free-spirited hippie but the truth is, Taizan Shimomura is actually a doctor’s son who was inspired to create dishes that are both delicious and healthful. Although the dish “soup curry” was created in Sapporo, it was actually inspired by the traditional Indonesian dish, Soto Ayam (spicy yellow chicken soup). Choose from 24 different toppings — from tempura to tofu — and six different spice levels. The soup is flavourful without being too salty, and the profusion of fresh vegetables is sure to fill your belly.
Established in 1959, this is the largest fish market in the city and it supplies fresh seafood to the 2.3 million residents of Sapporo City, as well as other parts of Japan. Some of the key differences between this central fish market and others lie in its geography. Because Hokkaido is surrounded by three bodies of water — the Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Japan, and the Sea of Okhotsk — the wholesalers have a more direct contact with the fishermen, which means they can negotiate guidelines on how to better handle the fish so as to maintain a certain standard and quality. For example, one practice is to kill the fish immediately onboard the ship and drain its blood so as to prolong its freshness. Another practice unique to Sapporo Fish Market is how the wholesalers divide tuna into four distinct pieces so that bidders can easily examine the condition of the fish.
Don’t Miss Out On These Scrumptious Snacks! Before leaving North Hokkaido, you absolutely have to try these delicious treats. Mogmog Terrace’s Cheesecake is available exclusively at Asahiyama Zoo, and is also known as Scrambled Cheesecake. Why? Well, the cake comes with two layers (sponge cake and cream cheese) and a side of maple syrup, and you’re supposed to mix everything up before eating. This soft, light and fluffy dessert is comfort food at its best.
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For more heavenly baked goods, head straight to Kinotoya bakery in Sapporo City. Everything here is made with ingredients from Hokkaido, from milk to sugar to flour. Signature items include Baumkuchen, milk biscuits, and a unique concoction where a sliver of baked cheesecake is set atop a piecrust. The latter is absolutely delicious – the velvety smooth cheesecake combined with the warm and crumbly piecrust makes for an amazing amalgamation of textures in your mouth.
Other must-tries include Soft Daifuku, which is a type of rice cake stuffed with sweetened bean jam, available at roadside station, Furen Tokusankan. Furen, located in Nayoro City, is well known for its production of mochi gome (Japanese glutinous rice), so you can be assured of the dessert’s high quality and freshness. Each bite is smooth, delicate, and delightfully chewy.
People
feature
Meet The People of Northern Hokkaido Hideo Morita, Mayor of Horokanai Town
As the leader of the “City of Soba”, Hideo Morita truly walks the talk, having successfully achieved the status of “5 Dan Soba Master”. He shares with us his plans for Horokanai Town. Tell us more about the Soba Festival. The festival is traditionally held during the first weekend of September to commemorate the first buckwheat harvest of the year. More than 30 soba producers and soba shops from Horokanai and across Japan take part in this festival. Visitors get to sample many different types of soba as well as discover interesting soba-related paraphernalia. In 2013, we celebrated our 50th anniversary of soba production and as part of the celebration, we invited participants from other countries that also consume buckwheat noodles to demonstrate how they cook and eat buckwheat noodles in their own country. At this year’s festival, we invited various soba wholesalers and restaurant owners to try the soba from Horokanai. We also came up with alternative food items — that were also made using buckwheat flour — such as crepes and Dango (Japanese sweet dumpling). What are your thoughts of foreigners visiting the city to learn soba-making? Everybody is welcome to visit Horokanai! In fact, we’re improving our infrastructure so as to welcome more visitors. I’ll love for people to visit during summertime because our buckwheat fields are especially beautiful then. What are some of the upcoming plans to extend Horokanai’s influence as the “City of Soba”? We are building a new cold storage system to ensure the soba stays as fresh as possible. In addition, plans are underway to improve the quality of soil in our buckwheat fields. We have also increased our media appearances across the country so as to raise awareness of Horokanai being trustworthy producers of high-quality soba.
Tomeo Kumagai & Katsuhiro Hasegawa, Biei JA (Japan Agricultural Cooperatives)
Katsuhiro Hasegawa
JA (Japan Agricultural Cooperatives) is a national organisation of farmers. We speak to the Biei representatives to find out the challenges and opportunities faced by the agriculture sector. Tell us about some of the challenges the association has to deal with. There’s a constant need to strike a balance between the amount of rice we produce and the size of our fields. While we want to increase output, we don’t want to run into wastage. Another challenge we face is finding ways to cultivate more profitable crops such as tomatoes and onions as we hope to export our produce to other countries such as Singapore and Taiwan. What sort of support does JA provide to the farmers in Biei? We upgrade our infrastructure regularly so as to improve production. For example, we’re building
more greenhouses to increase the production of tomatoes. Recently, we also built a large-scale facility to store potatoes as well as purchased a sophisticated onion-peeling system. What are some of the best-known agricultural products from Biei? Although we are still fairly new to rice production, we’ve consistently won the award for “Best Rice Quality” over the past 10 years. I believe it’s due to our climate (stark temperature contrasts between night and day) and clean, cold water from the mountains. The melons from Biei are also much sweeter than those from other parts of Japan.
Tomeo Kumagai
Places of Interest
The rugged beauty of the Northern Hokkaido countryside is complemented by the chic and contemporary creature comforts of its capital city, Sapporo. Here are some noteworthy places to visit. Biei-cho: Blue Pond / Shikisai-no-Oka
The Biei countryside is one of unparalleled beauty and tranquility. A must-visit is the Blue Pond, which is located on the left bank of the River Bieigawa. As its name suggests, the pond is of a bright blue hue. However, the origins of its colour is still unclear – some speculate it could be due to the presence of aluminum hydroxide from the nearby Platinum hot springs. In any case, the tree stumps emerging from the surface of the water lend the entire place an enchanted, almost ethereal atmosphere.
Another must-visit during your time in Northern Hokkaido is Shikisai-no-Oka, which is a collection of flower plantations. The fields are awash with vivid, vibrant colours and the air is so fresh, you can’t help but feel incredibly joyful while there. To add to the enjoyment, there is a newly opened alpaca farm located within the premises. Home to sixteen alpacas, you’ll be delighted to no end by these placid, adorable animals.
Bifuka-cho: Matsuyama Marshland / Torocco Kingdom
Kamikawa-cho: Sounkyo The hot spring resort town of Sounkyo is located in the north of Daisetsuzan National Park. Nestled within a scenic narrow gorge, it is a good base for hiking or trekking tours. Located a short drive away from the Blue Pond is Shumarinai-ko, the largest manmade lake in Hokkaido. The area surrounding the lake is a designated park to preserve wildlife and other natural resources, making it a place of sublime beauty.
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As you make your way to Matsuyama Marshland, you’ll be treated to beautiful landscapes of undulating hills and rolling meadows. Before your trek, you’ll be given a bell to wear around your neck to keep any brown bears at bay. However, it probably won’t deter curious bushy-tailed red foxes; we spotted one right before our trek. It takes about 40 minutes to trek up to the marshland and along the way; you’ll get to see a variety of pine trees, as well as spectacular views of the countryside in between the trees. Located 20 minutes drive from Matsuyama Marshland is Torocco Kingdom, which used to be part of the Japan Railway (JR) before it got shut down due to dwindling passenger numbers. After refurbishments, the tracks re-opened 15 years ago with gas-operated miniature trains to take tourists on scenic rides through the area.
Sights
Wakkanai City: Soya Misaki
Hakkenzan Winery
Soya Misaki, also known as Cape Misaki, is the northernmost point of Hokkaido (and by extension, the northernmost point of Japan). When you arrive at the cape, you’ll be able to view The Monument of the Northernmost Point of Japan and the statue of Rinzo Mamiya, a Japanese explorer in the 18th century. However, the true northernmost point under Japanese control is actually a small island called Bentenjima, which is located 1km northwest from the cape. On a clear day, you should be able to catch a glimpse of the Russian-owned island, Sakhalin, located 43km away from where you’re standing on the cape. Soya Misaki is a quiet and peaceful spot, great if you’ll like to spend some time alone with your thoughts.
Just 20km outside of Sapporo City lies a hidden gem – Hakkenzan Winery. This 6.5-hectare winery was established four years ago, but now produces around 20,000 bottles of wine annually. The bestselling wine from Hakkenzan is the Niagara Sparkling Wine, which is a refreshing sparkling white wine that includes notes of the Niagara fruit. This appetising wine refreshes your palate and whets your appetite for a hearty meal ahead.
札幌市 Sapporo City
Sapporo is the fourthlargest city in Japan. While there are plenty to see, do, and try in the capital city of Hokkaido, we zoom in to three must-visit spots.
High Grown Cafe (Miyakoshiya Coffee)
There are 26 outlets of Miyakoshiya Coffee in Sapporo City itself, but the one you definitely should visit is High Grown Cafe, located within the residential district of Chuo Ward. The ambience alone makes it worth it – with wall-to-wall glass windows, you’ll be afforded with breathtaking views of the city lights. While they serve wine and champagne, the highlight is still the coffee. Choose from three house blends – one from Tanzania and Kilimanjaro, another from Sumatra Mandheling, and a third that is a blend of the first two along with Colombian beans. Prepared using the traditional drip method, the coffee tastes very clean; there’s none of the pungent after-taste. Enjoy your coffee with a slice of homemade cheesecake or chocolate brownie. Mmm …
Yosuko This restaurant is a bit of an anomaly in Japan as they serve both Japanese and Chinese cuisine … and they do both equally well. Which is probably why they are packed to the rafters every evening. Some of the must-order dishes include Hokkaido cold crab, oyster omelette, and of course, sashimi.
Susukino For a taste of Sapporo City nightlife, head straight to Susukino. With the proliferation of bright neon lights, you may feel like you’re in downtown Tokyo. Here, the city never sleeps and you’ll be spoiled for choice when it comes to dining and entertainment options.
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Soba, So Good
Horokanai is the largest producer of soba in Japan and during a recent visit; Oishii contributing writer Vanessa Tai had the privilege of finding out all about this beloved staple. She even got her hands dirty and made her own soba noodles! “Oh dear, my noodles look like fettuccine!” I exclaimed and everyone around me burst out laughing … because it was true. Instead of thin, slender strands of buckwheat noodles, my first attempt at making soba looked more like thick, flat Italian noodles. Thankfully, the instructors at the soba-making workshop were extremely gracious and even complimented the flavour of my noodles. If you’re the sort of traveller who enjoys activity-based tourism, you’ll have fun at this hour-long workshop held at Horokanai Soba Dojo. During the workshop, you’ll be introduced to the basic techniques of making soba – from kneading the flour, to rolling it out, cutting, and boiling. Each stage of the process involves a delicate balance of strength and gentleness so as to ensure the noodles are of a consistent size and texture. Soba-making is taken seriously in Horokanai, as evidenced by the consistent efforts of the local government to improve the soba production process. For example, they have made improvements to the soil quality in the buckwheat fields so as to ensure the high quality of soba is maintained. The quality of soba is also dependent on how you store it immediately after harvest, which is why the local
government recently invested in a large cold storage facility in October 2014, to ensure the buckwheat is kept as fresh as possible. In addition, soba-making is a compulsory part of the curriculum at Horokanai High School. With a curriculum that’s focused on agriculture, the students at this school often go on to be accomplished soba aficionados. We dropped in on one of the classes and were impressed by the dexterity of these 17-year-olds. From methodically washing their hands before preparing the dough to cutting it into thin strips, each step of the process was done with meticulous precision. The thing that impressed me most was how after creating one batch of absolutely beautiful soba noodles, the students would “destroy” the previous 30 minutes of hard work by mashing the dough back together. That’s because, in each class, the students usually go through the entire soba-making process at least two or three times. Talk about practice making perfect! It’s no wonder then that Horokanai City is also home to most of the highestranking soba makers. When it comes to soba-making techniques, the highest grade
Soba Museum
©Horokanai Ph oto Contest
Soba-making is taken seriously in Horokanai, as evidenced by the compulsory soba-making class offered at Horokanai High School.
you can achieve is “5 Dan” and 10 percent of Horokanai residents hold this accolade, including its present mayor and the chief instructor at Horokanai Soba Dojo. With the people of Horokanai coming together to support the “City of Soba”, you can be assured of only the finest quality buckwheat, soba powder, and soba noodles.
For a more intimate peek at soba-making through the years, visit the small but well-curated Soba Museum, which is owned by soba-making veteran Tadaichi Kitamura. The affable soba producer has been growing Seiwa Kitamura and producing soba in the region Observation Deck for over 35 years. During the summer months, you can enjoy delicious bowls of soba at the outdoor dining area (fashioned like an old-school railway cart!) and take a stroll through the beautiful buckwheat fields.
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Hokkaido
Memories of North
Dohoku is definitely a place that bears repeat visits, but before you leave, remember to take home a little piece of Northern Hokkaido.
& Sapporo
Kita Kari
Also known as fried biscuits, these tasty snacks are the hallmark products of Sanyou Confectionery, which was established in 1931. All the biscuits are made with wheat flour and fried in soybean oil, both of which are entirely sourced from within the region. The original flavour is brown sugar, but the confectionery has since expanded their product range to include over 20 different varieties from honey to chocolate, curry to black pepper. Some of the latest flavours to look out for include Pie Dough and Doughnut Dough.
Otokoyama Sake Backed by over 300 years of sake-brewing experience, Otokoyama Sake is one of the country’s most well-known and revered brands of sake. The most popular variant is the Junmai Daiginjo, which has a gentle fragrance that arises as you hold the sake in your mouth. Full-flavoured yet delicate and light, this is a sake you’ll want to savour over good conversation with friends.
-41°C Cookies Takahashi Confectionery, which was established in 1917, initially only focused on producing Vitamin Castella, a type of pound cake that includes vitamins B1 and B2. However, as they faced greater competition over the years, they decided to create a product that was unique to Asahikawa City. Hence, the -41°C Cookie was born in 1985. Inspired by the city’s lowest recorded temperature, the team came up a patented technology to create a cookie that resembles a snowflake. Each cookie comes with three layers — white chocolate, caramelised almonds, and sugar — and tells a rich tale of that one particularly frosty day in Asahikawa City.
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Horokanai Soba You can’t leave the “City of Soba” without bringing home some packaged soba. Whether you enjoy it hot or cold, the fine quality of Horokanai Soba will be apparent from the first bite.
Souvenirs
Biei Rusk Biei Rusk is made entirely with ingredients produced in Biei, so you can’t get any fresher than this. The wheat from Biei, Yumechikara, is well known for its high quality – it creates a delicately sweet flavour and moist texture, which is especially evident in this baked snack.
Warning Bear Ramen Fujiwara Seimen, a noodle producer that has been based in Asahikawa City for over 60 years, produces this ramen. The bear featured on the packaging is Higuma, a type of brown bear native to Hokkaido. In the earlier part of the century, there were reported brown bear attacks in the area and caution signs were put up to alert residents. This packaging is a throwback to these caution signs, and is a unique product of Northern Hokkaido.
Magic Spice Curry Can’t get enough of that toothsome soup from Magic Spice Curry? Well, you’ll be pleased to note you can bring home the pre-packaged “soup curry” and enjoy the dish in the comfort of your home.
Hokkaido Rice Crackers Available from roadside station Mochigome-no-sato Furen, these rice crackers are made with a type of glutinous rice from Furen called Hakucho Mochi, and is manufactured by a Furen producer as well. The crackers are deep fried in rice oil, which lends them a light and crispy texture. Choose from six delicious flavours – Sweet Corn, Hokkaido Cheese, Caramel, Curry, Salt, and Wasabi.
Biei Cider When you visit Biei Senka, one of the must-buys include Biei Cider. These non-alcoholic beverages have been sweetened with Origo Sugar, which is made from beetroots. The different colours of the cider are a nod to the various places of interest in Biei – for example, the blue cider is in reference to the Blue Pond, and the orange cider is in reference to Sunset Hill. Scan for OISHIITV!
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©Horokanai Photo Contest
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Listings
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Dining / Food Menya Saimi 5-3-12, Misono 10-jo, Toyohira-ku Sapporo-city, Hokkaido, 062-0010 Tel: 011 820-6511 Shoga Ramen Mizuno Tokiwadori 2 chome, Asahikawa-city, Hokkaido 070-0043 Tel: 0166-22-5637
Furen Tokusankan 334-1, Furencho Nishimachi, Nayoro-city, Hokkaido, 098-0507 Tel: 0165-53-2332 Mogmog Terrace (at Asahiyama Zoo) Higashi Gate 2F, Higashi Asahikawacho Kutanuma, Asahikawa-city, Hokkaido 078-8205 Tel: 0166-36-7888 Yosuko 15, Odorinishi, Chuo-ku Sapporo-city, Hokkaido, 060-0042 Tel: 011-611-5516
Visit Sapporo Central Wholesale Market (Sapporo Fish Market) 20 -1-10, Kita 12-jo nishi, Chuo-ku, Sapporo, Hokkaido, 060-0012 Tel: 011-611-3111
Matsuyama Marshland Bifuka-Cho Sightseeing Association Kaiuncho, Bifuka-cho Nakagawa-gun, Hokkaido, 098-2238 Tel: 0165-69-2470 Trocco Kingdom Bifuka Niupu, Bifuka-cho, Nakagawa-gun, Hokkaido, 098-2208 Tel: 0165-62-1065 Soya Misaki (Cape Sōya) Soyamisaki, Wakkanai-city, Hokkaido, 098-6758 Hakkenzan Winery 194-1, Toyama, Minami-ku, Sapporo-city, Hokkaido, 061-2275 Tel: 011-596-3981
Blue Pond Shirogane, Biei-cho Kamikawa-gun, Hokkaido, 071-0235
©JA BIEI
Sobaya Hachiemon Horokanai, Horokanai-cho, Uryu District, Hokkaido 074-0411 Tel: 0165-35-3521 Biei Senka Omachi 2 chome, Biei-cho Kamikawa -gun, Hokkaido, 071-0204 Tel: 0166-92-4400 Magic Spice Minami 6-2, Hongodori 8, Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo-city, Hokkaido, 003-0024 Tel:011-864-8800
Special Thanks:
KINOTOYA 5-1-20, Higashi Sapporo 3-jo, Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo-city, Hokkaido, 003-0003 Tel: 011-813-6161
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Nobufumi Hosokawa, President, The International Trading Co., Ltd
Hokkaido Rice Crackers / Horokanai Soba Furen Tokusankan 334-1, Furencho Nishimachi, Nayoro-city, Hokkaido, 098-0507 Tel: 0165-53-2332
-41°c Cookie Major Souvenir Shop and Airport
High Grown Café (Miyakoshi Coffee) 3-15-20, 3F, Fushimi, Chuo-ku Sapporo-city, Hokkaido, 064-0942 Tel: 011-512-5522 Susukino Susukino Sightseeing Association Shimin Katsudo Plaza Hoshi En 304, 2-5 Minami 8 -jo nishi, Chuo-ku Sapporo-city, Hokkaido, 064-0808 TEL: 011-518-2005 Horokanai Soba Dojo (School) Horokanai, Horokanai-cho Uryu-gun, Hokkaido, 074-0411 Tel: 0165-35-2380
Restaurant Asperges (at Biei Senka) Omachi 2 chome, Biei-cho, Kamikawa-gun, Hokkaido, 071-0204 Tel: 0166-92-5522
Shopping Sake OTOKOYAMA Sake Brewery 7-1-33, 2-jo, Nagayama, Asahikawa, Hokkaido 079-8412 Tel: 0166-48-1931
Kitakari Major Shopping Centre and Airport
Shikisai-no-Oka Dai 3, Shinsei, Biei-cho, Kamikawa-gun, Hokkaido, 071-0473 Tel: 0166-95-2758 Sounkyo Hokkaido Sounkyo Sightseeing Association Mori-no-Terasunupuri 605, Chuo-cho, Kamikawa-cho Kamikawa-gun, Hokkaido, 078-1741 Tel: 0165-82-1811
©JA BIEI
Kitamura Soba Firm /Soba Museum Horokanai Sightseeing association Seiwa, Horokanai-cho Uryu-gun, Hokkaido, 074-0411 Tel: 0165-35-2155 *open only from mid-July to August
*Dial from Overseas to Japan +81(Country code) Area code (omit first zero) Land phone number
Biei Rusk / Biei Cider Biei Senka Omachi 2 chome, Biei-cho, Kamikawa-gun, Hokkaido, 071-0204 Tel: 0166-92-4400 Warning bear ramen Major Souvenir Shop and Supermarket Magic Spice Curry Major Supermarket and Magic Spice restaurant
masters
A Steamy Story
T
he nabemono, or nabe, is a dish that has come to symbolise reunion in a Japanese family. As a communal cuisine, the sight of family members and friends gathering around a pot of steaming stew is heartwarming and paints the picture of festive joy. There are several types of nabemonos – from the traditional Chankonabe, originally served only to sumo wrestlers to help them gain weight, to newer inventions like collagen nabe for women hoping to get a dose of beautifying benefits from the food they eat – because, unlike Chinesestyle hotpots that let you cook whatever you want in a soup base, nabemonos tend to feature meat from one animal. Nabemonos are also categorised into light-flavoured stock and strong-flavoured stock. The former is made typically with kombu and served with a dipping sauce like
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ponzu, the latter is made from miso or dashi and the food items are eaten without further flavourings. When it comes to partaking in a nabemono, things can get pretty amusing. Usually, a division of roles happens: one person will be in charge of looking after the fire temperature, one person will be tasked with adding ingredients to the pot, and so on. If somone tries to take control of the whole process, he will earn himself the nickname of hotpot governer “nabe bugyo”. Depending on how involved you wish to be at the dining table, the presence of a “nabe bugyo” can be annoying to some people. However, leaving such a person to cook everything also means you get to sit back, relax and enjoy the dish. Ready to tuck into a good meal? In the following pages, three chefs share with us the mouthwatering nabe creations of their respective restaurants.
TEXT DEBORAH TAN PHOTOGRAPHY RAYMOND TOH/VINEYARD PRODUCTION
A hearty wintertime specialty, nabemono (Japanese hotpots) is a one-pot meal cooked over a mini stove at the table. Three masters tell us more about the different ways to enjoy this communal dish.
A Steamy Story
Koji Tsukamoto Executive Chef of Fuku
T
wice a week, by air, Fuku receives its shipment of tora fugu from Shimonoseki. The restaurant is Singapore’s first and only fugu-centric eatery and it serves a hotpot featuring the notorious fish. Excutive chef Koji, who has over 20 years of experience handling the fugu, tells us more about enjoying the fugu tecchiri. How did the practice of eating the fugu come about? The Japanese have been eating the fugu since before the Edo period (1603-1867). In Japanese literature, it is recorded that the samurais were eating the fugu. There was a mention of a top samurai named Hideyoshi Toyotomi partaking in fish when he went to the Korean peninsular to fight a war. But actually, eating the fugu as a sashimi is a relatively modern way of consuming it. Using the fish as an ingredient in a hotpot dates way earlier. What makes eating the fugu tecchiri so special? The flavour of the fugu is light but, nonetheless, it still is flavourful and tasty. Consuming the fugu as a hotpot makes it easier for people across all ages to enjoy the fish. The fugu also packs a lot of health benefits. It is high in protein and low in cholesterol. Together with a light stock made from kombu and vegetables, the fugu tecchiri makes for a very healthy meal for the whole family. I also recommend that ladies eat the fugu tecchiri regularly as the fish also contains high amounts of collagen. What’s the difference between eating the fugu as a hotpot ingredient and as a sashimi? The flesh of the fugu is actually quite firm and solid. As a hotpot ingredient, we cook the fish until it’s tender and easy to bite through. As a sashimi, we have to slice the flesh more thinly so people can enjoy it better. Is there a correct way to eat the fugu tecchiri? When you start cooking the hotpot, you cook the fugu with its bones so the flavour of the soup is more intense. As the flesh cooks, a foamy scum will form on the surface and you need to scoop it out. Then you add in the vegetables. When the fish is ready to eat, you dip it into a ponzu sauce. This is a must! We use a special ponzu sauce made in Shimonoseki – it’s an area that specialises in fugu. We call it fugu shoyu as it’s specially made for the fugu tecchiri.
How else is the fugu served in Fuku? The fugu meat is very versatile. Here, we also serve it karage style where we deep fry the meat like nuggets. We also grill the meat or have it slightly roasted. The more adventurous can also try the fugu shirako (milt or soft roe) – which we consider a delicacy.
Fuku is located at 14 Mohamed Sultan Road, #01-01. Tel: 6235 8216.
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Takahiro Yamane Executive Chef of Goku
T
he motsunabe is an interesting hotpot for anyone who prides himself as an adventurous eater. Instead of muscle meat, this dish cooks offal in a soup base made from soy sauce or miso. The motsunabe at Goku uses beef intestines, which are apparently rich in collagen. Judging by Chef Takahiro’s youthful looks, this is definitely another nabe dish ladies have to try. What is the history of the motsunabe? Historically, it’s hard to say. This came about because people needed to find a way to use the parts of an animal most people don’t eat. If you go to Hakata in Fukuoka, you will find a lot of restaurants specialising in the motsunabe, whereas if you visit Osaka, you’ll also find people eating offal in a barbeque style. What’s so special about the motsunabe at Goku? The first highlight would be our soup base. It’s made fresh every day by stewing chicken for five hours. From this soup base, we create four different flavours, using seasoning like shoyu or miso. Another notable thing is that we clean the intestines very thorougly. I remove the lining of the intestines so that they are not chewy when you eat them. And finally, the motsunabe is a dish that is rich in collagen – I’ve had a lot of my female customers telling me how their complexions look better the day after they’ve eaten here!
Where are the ingredients of the motsunabe from? For the intestines, we use the ones from Australian grain-fed organic beef. The vegetables are mainly from Malaysia. The cabbage, however, is from Beijing; it is sweeter. This is also the cabbage we use to make our pickled cabbage – which is very popular with our customers. The dried chilli is from Japan as is the yuzu kosho, a green pepper dip with a citrus flavour. What is the best way to enjoy the motsunabe? The ideal weather to eat the motsunabe should be during the cold season. Because the nabe is a warming dish and this is also when the animals start to carry more fat, the meat and intestines are tastier. But in Singapore, admittedly, people seem to like hotpots all year round, so I guess that’s irrelevant
here. I also don’t recommend that you cook the intestines for too long because they will crinkle up. Cook the intestines for about a minute after the soup boils, then turn off the heat. You can still leave the intestines in the soup for the flavour to blossom. To end the motsunabe, you can add champon noodles to the remaining soup or cheese risotto.
Goku is located at 33 Mohamed Sultan Road. Tel: 6735 4232
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A Steamy Story
E
ager to bring a taste of home to Singapore, Chef Kyota introduced the Hakata mizutaki – a hotpot featuring fresh chicken and vegetables. According to popular lore, this dish was first created by combining Western and Chinese elements. The creator got the idea to blend consomme with the Chinese method of boiling chicken in water to create a soup.
What are some of the ingredients found inside the Hakata mizutaki? We use chicken bones, feet and wings to cook the soup for six hours. Then we cook the thighs and breasts in the soup. We then accompany the chicken and the broth with some spinach, Shiitake mushrooms and carrots. While the customers are eating the chicken, we will add chicken balls to the soup. These are made with the remaining meat of the chicken so in the end, you end up eating the whole bird. Nothing goes to waste!
Kyota Ishida
Chef & Owner of Torikin
What are some of the health benefits associated with the Hakata mizutaki? The soup is rich in collagen! The Hakata mizutaki provides a well-rounded, nutritious meal rich in protein and fibre. Is there a particular way the dish should be enjoyed? Yes. There are some steps one should follow when eating the Hakata mizutaki. You start by drinking some of the broth with some salt. Then you cook the chicken, which you dip in a ponzu sauce. Finally, you enjoy the vegetables and the meatballs together. Where are the ingredients from? The chicken is very important. I tried many different types of chicken before I decided on this Sakura chicken from Malaysia. Sakura chicken is reared without using antibiotics and growth hormones, while lactobacillus is used to enhance their immune systems naturally. I was pleasantly surprised that the broth that resulted from using this chicken was similar to the one at home. For vegetables and other ingredients, I also try to use those found nearby as freshness is very important in the Hakata mizutaki. Of course, everything must be cooked with love! Torikin is located at 557 Bukit Timah Road, #01-14/16. Tel: 6465 5908
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Get the scoop on the
W
hen we think about rice and all its wonders, we sometimes overlook the humble Shamoji (rice paddle or scoop). In Japanese culture particularly, the Shamoji plays an important part of the rice-cooking process and has its own history. It all started sometime between 1790s and the 1800s when a Buddhist monk named Seishin had a dream of a deity named Benzaiten, also known as the Indian goddess Saraswati. In the dream, she held a traditional Japanese lute, which the monk interpreted as a spoon. When he awoke, he showed the people of Miyajima how to make this special rice scoop, or Shamoji. In those early days, the Shamoji was given out as talismans by nearby Shinto shrines, and while the modern version may not have the same symbolism, some families still keep the traditional one in the home. The theory behind the Shamoji is that rice should always be mixed right after it’s finished cooking, but before being
served out for the meal. This allows excess moisture to escape and helps create the right consistency for the rice. This is where the Shamoji does its job perfectly – you don’t want something too sharp to risk cutting and mashing the rice, but still solid enough to be able to mix it up properly. This is why Shamoji are typically made of wood, bamboo or plastic. Most new rice cookers come with a plain white plastic one. You’ll never find a metal Shamoji as the material may cut the rice and damage the hangiri (wooden Sushi rice-mixing tub). Shamoji is also frequently used in food preparation to help crush vegetables such as garlic and cucumbers. As Japanese rice tends to be more glutinous and sticky, some newfangled Shamoji are coated with a non-stick material, while others sport tiny ridges on its scoop to help prevent rice from sticking to it. A more traditional way of getting around this problem was simply to put the Shamoji in some water each time before using it.
The Giant Shamoji
The world’s largest wooden rice scoop in the world is 7.7 metres long, 2.7 metres thick, and weighs 2.5 tonnes. It’s said to be made from a 270 year-old Zelkova tree. It took more than three years to construct, and you can find it in the Omotesando shopping street in Miyajima, Hiroshima prefecture.
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TEXT DEBORAH GIAM IMAGES 9107651 | K_RIVER • 6274656 | TAKA03162001 • WWW.PIXTASTOCK.COM
It’s not just a spoon – this handy addition to every Japanese household (or any household with a rice cooker) is truly an essential.
recipes
From Mr & Mrs Igarashi’s Modern Kitchen: Shio-Lemon Food consultants Go Igarashi and his wife, Yukari, are both food enthusiasts who eat, breathe, and live everything gourmet. They believe food goes beyond just function, and is an integral part of one’s lifestyle. In this first interview with Oishii, Igarashi shares with us their foodie philosophy.
“I
Philosophy on Food I believe food shapes our culture, and there are many things we can change through our dining habits. For example, the experience of dining with people whose company you enjoy helps foster happier, more fulfilling relationships. This is why my business goes beyond cooking demonstrations; my wife and I want to educate people how they can be happy through food. Japanese Modern Kitchen Because of technological advancements, we now see a visible shift in Japanese dining culture. For example, the decrease in rice production has also led to an overall decline in the production of
TEXT VANESSA TAI PHOTOGRAPHY HIDEYUKI KAWATA RECIPES TRANSLATION YUICHI
initially had a dream of running my own cafe so I started by working at various F&B establishments. However, while watching TV one day, I stumbled upon the job of a food consultant, one who creates lifestyle concepts, products, and fashion all around food. I was intrigued and decided that was the direction I wanted to take instead.
soya sauce, miso, and sake. However, after UNESCO labeled Japanese cuisine as an integral part of our heritage, the younger generation is now more accepting of traditional Japanese cuisine. For me, it’s always interesting to put a contemporary spin on traditional cooking methods. Trendy New Ingredient: Shio-Lemon As food consultants, my wife and I are always on the lookout for the next big
Shio-lemon
(Salted Preserved Lemon) Before
After
flavour. I chanced upon salted preserved lemon after watching an episode of Jamie Oliver’s cooking show. My wife and I experimented with the ingredient, and she even published a book of recipes focusing on Shio-Lemon. Shio-Lemon’s popularity is due to its complex flavour and relatively simple preparation method. Also, it can be used in many different Japanese dishes – from salad dressing to nabe (Japanese hot pot dish) to marinades for fatty meats.”
Ingredients
4 -5 Lemons (500g) 50g Salt (10% of lemon weight)
Directions
1. Wash the lemons, dry off the water and then remove hulls. 2. Slice half the total number of lemons in 3mm-wide round shapes, and slice the remaining into wedges. Remove the seeds if possible. 3. Place the lemon and salt in an alternate fashion into a glass bottle. Ensure that the bottle has been sterilised in boiling water beforehand. 4. Shake the bottle once a day. Store it in a cool, dark place for about 2 weeks. 5. After 2 weeks, store the bottle in a refrigerator and use the contents within 3 months.
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Tsukune and Vegetables Nabe with Shio-lemon
Ingredients ( 4 servings ) 300g Minced chicken 7 slices of Salt lemon (round-cut) 1 tsp Soy sauce 1/2 Chinese cabbage 1 package Maitake mushroom
Directions
100g Shungiku (Chrysanthemum leaves) 800cc Water 2 tbsp Soy sauce 10cm Dried konbu (sea kelp) Salt and pepper, for taste
A. Preparation 1. Pour water into a nabe (cooking pot), add dried konbu, then leave to boil for 30 minutes. 2. Slice chinese cabbage into bite-sized pieces. 3. Loosen maitake mushroom by hand into bite size. 4. Slice shungiku into 4cm long pieces. 5. Chop 2 slices of Shio lemon into small pieces. B. Making tsukune (meat balls) 1. Place minced chicken, chopped Shio lemon, and soy sauce in a bowl. Knead until it gets sticky. 2. Add soy sauce into the nabe and cook over a high heat. 3. Remove the kombu when small bubbles emerge on the surface of the water and add chinese cabbage, and maitake mushroom. 4. When boiled, add the kneaded meat with a spoon, and replace the lid after adding 5 slices of Shio lemon. Cook for 10 minutes. 5. Add shungiku, then season with salt and pepper for taste once it boils again.
Shio-lemon Sauce with Steamed Vegetables
Ingredients ( 2 servings ) 4 bunches Broccoli 70g Lotus root 1/16 Pumpkin or squash 6 Cherry tomatoes 1 Shio-lemon (wedge-cut) 1 tbsp Vinegar 1 tsp Miso 1/2 tsp Honey 1 tsp Olive oil
Directions
1. Cut the broccoli into bite sizes. Peel the lotus root and slice in 6mm-wide half-circle slices. Slice the pumpkin in 6mm-wide slices. 2. Chop Shio-lemon into small pieces. Mix it with vinegar, miso, honey, and olive oil. 3. Put the lotus root, pumpkin, and 3 tbsp of water into a frying pan, and then cover the pan with its lid. Bring to steam with a medium heat, then lower the heat and steam for another 5 minutes. Add broccoli and cherry tomatoes, and steam for another 3 minutes until well-cooked. 4. Place the steamed vegetables into a serving dish, with sauce drizzled on top.
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cool bites Sugar Frog
CANDY Wonderland
Osamu Watanabe
IMAGE NK.SHIMABUKURO
Osamu Watanabe is a contemporary artist who uses a variety of candy and whipped cream made from resin to fashion elaborate designs and sculptures. His eye-catching artwork has led him to be featured numerous times on Japanese TV shows. What inspires him? We speak to him to find out.
What inspired you to start creating candyinspired artwork? My mum taught people how to make traditional sweets and candy, so confectionary has always been a big part of my life and is something that’s close to my heart. There’s also the fact that sweets are something that most people enjoyed since they were children. I want my work to be associated with happy childhood memories.
Top: Osamu Watanabe’s Postcard Book Below: Watanabe putting the finishing touches on the 3m long boat for Yamaguchi’s annual boat race
What material do you work with to create your installations? Resin, mostly. It looks closest to the real thing, but I have to admit it gets a little challenging to pipe the “cream” because its texture and consistency is not like the real cream at all. What’s the most memorable reaction you’ve had to your work? In Japan, it’s pretty common to see artificial renditions of food that resemble the real thing so I usually get the biggest reactions when I showcase my work outside of Japan.
TEXT DENISE LI IMAGES ©OSAMU WATANABE
Can you tell us about the more elaborate work you’ve done? I came from Yamaguchi prefecture, and there is a huge boat race held there every year in Tokuyama city. In 2014, I was invited to create an installation for this race and I fashioned a 3m-long speedboat out of resin “candy”. It was painstaking work, but totally worth it in the end!
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You fashion yourself as a “prince” of a fantasy land. How important is this image to you as an artist?
Sugar Horse
In a way, that image is a means for the audience to better understand my work, and it does help generate a bit of buzz in the Japanese media for my work. In reality, my home is actually very simply decorated! Tell us a little about the books you’ve published. My first book, “Sweet or Unsweet?” was published a few years ago, and it lets readers know more about my work and the inspiration behind the various exhibitions. More recently, I released a postcard book, which allows customers to share some of my sweet treats with family and friends.
Find out more about Osamu Watanabe and his work by visiting http://osamuwatanabe.web.fc2.com/ (in Japanese and English).
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