ANGEL - THIERRY MUGLeR First launched in 1992 a game changing perfume of it’s time every 9 seconds an angel bottle is refilled worldwide one of the top 10 bestsellers in the world polarizing scent, people either love it or hate it Fig. 1. Angel Advertising campaign (2014)
the brand its identity, aesthetic, aims.
‘I always try to convey sensations, a sentiment... I always tell stories. Stories about men and women, inspired by all the poisonous flowers and mischievous creatures of the mythological world.’ Thierry Mugler The explosive, iconic fragrance Angel was first launched in 1992, the first fragrance venture for designer Thierry Mugler. Mugler became internationally recognised as a key designer in the 1980’s and is renowned for his distinctive style of structured elegance, futuristic high tech designs and eighties power dressing. The fragrance is a polarizing scent and was ground breaking when it was first released, as it was the first oriental gourmand scent. In the 1980’s popular scents included Opium, Poison and Obsession all themes of sex, passion and dark desires so when Angel was released it presented a new trend of spirituality and femininity with sensual, sweet and chocolaty notes. It was hugely successful, and highlighted Mugler as an experimental, market changing designer and perfumer.
In 2013 a new creative director was appointed, David Koma’s to help re brand Thierry Mugler. The objective for the 2014 ad was to sustain the Mugler DNA but re define what this meant for the modern women. The ad campaign needed to promote the brand identity of strong alluring women whilst keeping the angel icon and resonating memories that the gourmand scent evokes. The brand message evolved from previous campaigns by the darker tone of voice. The brand message is menacing and alluring mixing heritage with a sexier and modernised Angel for a contemporary audience. The casting of one of Britain’s most influential models of the year, Georgia May Jagger was a key successful element in the ad which helped appeal the fragrance to the modern market.
The ad campaigns above show the evolution of the brand. There is a consistent brand identity & message in all ads. The logo, semiotics & brand personality have stayed consistent throughout, as has the recognisable sky blue colour, which is now synonymous with the Thierry Mugler brand and Angel’s scent. Smoke, sparkle, celestial dreams and the exotic. An angelic, beautiful women reaching, holding her signature star. An angel model is powerful yet feminine, beautiful whilst alluring. Famous actresses and models have appeared in every campaign.
Jerry Hall was the face of the brand between 1995-1997. She was a muse of Mugler’s and greatly influenced his designs. Nineteen years later her daughter Georgia May Jagger is now the face of the brand. She stated, ‘It’s very special to me to be following in my mother’s footsteps.’ Part of Muglers big idea for the fragrance was inspired by his childhood memories and tenderness he felt from his mother. He wanted Angel to portray this emotion and relationship. Georgia signifies a new era in the story of Angel. Above Fig. 3-10. Past Advertising Campaigns 1992-2014
described as the ‘Prophet of futurism’ FMD. When applied to Roland Barthes theory The Fashion system, the advertising campaign is mockery. The image is outrageous and unrealistic with the ideals of fallen angels, dream like unusual settings with compelling juxtapositions.
This image can also be applied to Laura Mulveys Male gaze theory. Firstly Georgia May Jagger is portrayed as a woman of desire an ideology of sexuality. Mugler has often been criticised in the media of being a misogynist and portraying women as symbols of sex in a demeaning way. This ad campaign contains many of the conventions evident in a male gaze text such as the framing and back lighting of the models body in the composition highlighting the curves and silhouette which is also emphasised by the fit of the diamond encrusted couture dress. Muglers work and indeed the current campaign suggests and expresses many of his inspirations, muses and influences. The universal star emblem has always been an enchanting icon for Mugler. Stars are a motif, which often appear in his collections. His first muse was his mother, a confident, assured woman who he describes as ‘A star’. Together the star icon and sky blue connote mythical spirits and dreams.
Mugler’s muses
The star becomes a key element in the current campaign as the bottle is used as a prop to cover the chest of the model and therefore becomes the central focus of the composition and crop, portraying the central importance of the star to the brand. This really creates a relationship with the model and the bottle and helps to build the narrative and connote indulgence and sensuality. Mugler was inspired by Femme fatales from 1940’s film noir’s and this influence is evident in his couture collections and the personality and charm of his models in his ad campaigns for Angel, especially the current campaign. He contrasts ideas of a femme fatale character and an angel within Jagger to portray a feminine but strong leading lady.
‘Its been with me since my childhood and brings me happiness. it has always been my lucky charm’ Mugler. The advert was placed in abundance on digital platforms through the Mugler website and social media but also through PR from many magazines, websites and newspapers talking about the face of the brand, Georgia May Jagger which really caused a buzz across the web. The advert was also placed in many high end, luxury fashion magazines such as Harpers Bazaar, Elle and Vogue where the ad is still appearing now. The promotion in these major fashion magazines was a correct choice for the brand as a consumer of the Mugler brand as a fashion house is a high end, luxury consumer who reads such magazines. However Angel is an affordable fragrance retailing in high street stores to the middle class consumer. For this reason the ad has also been promoted in newspapers and on high street fragrance websites such as The Perfume Shop, Boots and Debenhams. These two varying promotional platforms at different market levels ensures the fragrance is being targeted at its whole target customer and I think this promotional plan was effective in doing so.
his work is about duality
and contrast
Within the copy, the tagline is foreboding, ‘Beware of Angel’s.’ It develops a darker tone of voice and warning to the image. Mary had to protect Christ and so often portrays a protective, defensive and caring attitude evident as is there in the Angel image.
‘She is mesmerising and
triumphant. In her hands she holds her star, her fragrance.’ Thierry Mugler.
Thierry Mugler created a narrative for the Angel brand. He stated he wanted to make a perfume ‘Close to tenderness, to childhood’. In the 2015 ad the body language and staging of model Georgia May Jagger has many similarities to Leonardo Da Vinci’s, Madonna Litta. This fifteen-century painting shows the Virgin Mary tenderly holding the Christ child, showing motherly affection and the close bond a mother and child build. By Mugler referencing this painting it could have been a way of Mugler portraying his childhood experiences. By referencing The Madonna, Mugler is referring to purity, beauty, love and tenderness. In the current ad the staging of Jagger creates the idea she is holding on to her Angel fragrance like it is her own. She is protective over her star and it encapsulates her. The star shape bottle which has been a unique selling point and distinctive element of the brand has five points like the limbs and head of a child. Sky blue is used in all ad campaigns of Angel and is also the main colour of the bottle. In medieval paintings the Virgin Mary was painted in blue to draw attention to her importance and portray her heavenly qualities. Furthermore Ultramarine blue in the Renaissance period was one of the most expensive colours so this colour highlighted the Virgin Marys importance. Mugler uses this blue colour to convey semotics of of luxury and portray an unworldly, angelic goddess like power, which comes from the goddess figure and from the Angel fragrance.
The background evokes a dreamy state for a viewer, the digital landscape has infinite depths, and the array of colours, textures and vibrancy’s could mirror the unusual, contrasting mix of notes in the scent, which blend together in harmony. These colours appeal to the Mugler female consumer, as the colours are beautifu and iconic and when combined with the contemporary glass, bottle and key fashion model as the face of the brand, the ad has modern appeal but with a promise of heritage. Another visual inspiration that appears to have influenced the campaign is ‘The Birth of Venus’ by Sandro Botticelli created in the 1840’s. The Birth of Venus is one of the worlds most famous and renowned works of art. The narrative depicts the ancient Goddess of love, Venus who inspired and aroused people to love. It shows Venus emerging from the sea, naked as an adult women and the Zeffers, angels on either side of her are the wind pushing her to shore. Venus is a spirit and driving force of beauty, love and purity. This painting appears to have influence over the ad initially for the stance and the visual shape Venus’s body creates. Jagger in the recent campaign has been styled in a couture gown, which appears like a second skin of weightless glitter and crystals on her curved body. Like Venus, Jagger is partly naked with only the Angel bottle to cover her chest. Her hands are placed in the same way Botticelli has placed Venus’s in a relaxed yet sensual way. The hair blowing in the wind is a evident parallel and Mugler has used this for the styling and art direction of Jaggers hair to portray movement and power.
Fig 11. The birth of Venus. 1486.
Fig 12. The Madonna. 1490
A key element of Thierry Muglers brand aesthetic and his own personal obsessions are inhuman figures such as Aliens, robots, insects and angels. These icons are evident in many of his designs and are personified like Angel on his other fragrance lines such as Alien and A-Men. All of Muglers fragrances are unique and iconic, they engage a consumer by the idea of the persona taken on from wearing one of his scents.
Botticelli also depicted the Virgin Mary in, Madonna of the Pomegranate where a light source shines brightly down the centre of the painting, potentially a reason for Muglers choice of bright white lighting and lack of shadow. Botticelli painted Mary in an oversized composition to symbolize how she supports Christ with her arms. Jagger is large and central in the composition and framing of the image also exaggerating her trust and relationship with her star. The background of the painting shows a beautiful blue but cloudy landscape amongst undisturbed countryside. In the digitally created graphic backdrop of the Angel campaign smoky blues, whites and glitter are used to create a heavenly backdrop. The use of layered smoke, depth of field and in a celestial landscape with movement and texture there is an underlying message of danger. Behind the model is a subtle pair of wings in a low opacity but these wings appear strong, powerful and create juxtaposition with the elegance of her gown.
‘He is in his own world and his obsessions are always the same’ Francois Baudot. Fig 13. The Madonna of the pomegranate. 1487
Biblography. 1. Botticelli, Birth of Venus. (2012). Botticelli, The Birth of Venus, 1483-85. [Online Video]. May 30, 2012. Available from: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdp22elrY7s. [Accessed: 23.03.15]. 2. Carmen Canada, 2010. The Birth of Thierry Mugler’s Angel. [Online] Avaliable at: http://graindemusc.blogspot. co.uk/2010/04/birth-of-thierry-muglers-angel-vera.html [23.03.15]
references Figure 1. Magazine Cover. Mugler, Thierry press (2014) The making of the Campaign [Photograph] At: http://www.elle.fr/ Beaute/News-beaute/Parfums/Georgia-May-Jagger-egerie-duparfum-Angel-sur-les-traces-de-sa-mere-2703178 (Accessed on 23.03.15) Figure 2. Sundsbo, Solve. Thierry Mugler press (2014) Angel advertising campaign[Photograph] At: http://www.dailymail. co.uk/femail/article-2669583/Georgia-May-Jagger.co.uk (Accessed on 08.03.15) Figure 3. Mugler, Thierry (1992) Angel advertising camapaign starring Estelle Lefébure [Photograph] At: http://nymag.com/ thecut/2012/09/secrets-behind-thierry-muglers-angel-ads/ slideshow/ (Accessed on 09.03.15) Figure 4. Mugler, Thierry (1995) Angel advertising campaign starring Jerry Hall [Photograph] At: http://theredlist.com/wiki-224-525-528-723-view-1970s-3-profile-jerry-hall.html (Accessed on 09.03.15) Figure 5. Mugler, Thierry (1998) Angel advertising campagin starring Amy Wesson [Photograph] At: http://nymag.com/ thecut/2012/09/secrets-behind-thierry-muglers-angel-ads/ slideshow/2012/09/18/mugler_20th_anniversary/angel-1998amy-wesson/ Accessed on 09.03.15 Figure 6. Mugler, Thierry (2003) Angel advertising campaign starring Anna Maria Cseh [Photograph] At: http://nymag.com/ thecut/2012/09/secrets-behind-thierry-muglers-angel-ads/ slideshow/2012/09/18/mugler_20th_anniversary/angel-2003_ low/ Accessed on 09.03.15
Figure 7. Mugler, Thierry (2006) Angel advertising campaign Starring Bianca Balti [Photograph] At: http://nymag.com/ thecut/2012/09/secrets-behind-thierry-muglers-angel-ads/ slideshow/2012/09/18/mugler_20th_anniversary/angel-2006bianca_low/ (Acessed on 09.03.15) Figure 8. Mugler, Thierry (2008) Angel advertising campaign Starring Naomi Watts [Photograph] At: http://nymag.com/ thecut/2012/09/secrets-behind-thierry-muglers-angel-ads/ slideshow/2012/09/18/mugler_20th_anniversary/angel-2008naomi_low/ (Acessed on 09.03.15)
3.Catherine Hardy, 2014. Georgia May Jagger reveals new Thierry Mugler advert. The Daily Mail [Online] Avaliable at: http://www. dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2669583/Georgia-May-Jaggerreveals-new-Thierry-Mugler-Angel-advert-fragrance-frontedmother-Jerry-Hall-nineteen-years-ago.html [20.03.15] 4. Christina Han. 2012. The Secrets Behind Thierry Mugler’s Iconic Angel Ad Campaigns [Online] NYmag. Avaliable at : http://nymag.com/thecut/2012/09/secrets-behind-thierrymuglers-angel-ads.html [20.03.15] 5. Deborah Worley, 2013. Scent-Sational Searches [eBook]. First edition. USA. Xlibris. Aliable via : https://books.google.co.uk/ [20.03.15] 6. Ian Phillips, 1998. Fashion: Thierry Mugler [Online} The Independant. Avalibale at: http://www.independent.co.uk/lifestyle/fashion-thierry-mugler-1189431.html [24.03.15] 7.Liza Herz, 2012. Thierry Mugler’s Angel Ads on Display at The Bay [Online]. Beauty Geeks. Avalibale at: http://imabeautygeek. com/2012/11/16/f-is-for-fantastical-and-futuristic-intergalacticgoddess-wear-from-thierry-muglers-angel-ads-on-display-at-thebay [20.03.15]
Figure 9. Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin (2011) Angel advertsing campaign starrting Eva Mendes [Photograph] At: http://www.style.com/beauty/people/2011/first-look-evamendes-for-thierry-muglers-angel (Acessed on 09.03.15)
8. Michael Edwards, 1996. Perfume Legends. Michael Edwards & Co.
Figure 10. Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin (2011) Angel advertsing campaign starrting Eva Mendes [Photograph] At: http://nymag.com/thecut/2012/09/secrets-behind-thierrymuglers-angel-ads/slideshow/2012/09/18/mugler_20th_ anniversary/angel-eva_edp_2011_low/ (Acessed on 09.03.15)
10. Paper Magazine Cover. Paper Magazine
Figure 11. Botticelli, Sandro. (1486) The Birth of Venus [Tempera on canvas]. Uffizi Gallery, Uffizi, Florence. Figure 12. Da Vinci, Leonardo. (1490) The Madonna [Temera on cancas] Hermitage Muesum, Saint Petersburg. Figure 13. Botticelli, Sandro. (1487) Madonna of the Pomegranate [Tempera on canvas] Uffizi Gallery, Uffizi, Florence. Figure 14. Baker, Andrew. (2014) Angel Illustration for Clarins Fragrance Group
9. Mugler. 2015. Fragrances. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www. mugler.co.uk/. [Accessed 01 March 15].
11. Six BBC Contributors, 2011. Mary [Online} BBC. Avaliable at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/religions/christianity/history/ virginmary_1.shtml [23.03.15]
Fig 14. Angel Illustration. 2015