3 THIRD YEAR REPORT OLIVIA GASCOINE N0574952
To begin my third year preparation I reflected on feedback from previous projects and what skills I had learnt from this. I analysed my strengths and weaknesses and also thought about what part of the industry I would like to go into.
WHAT AM I INTERESTED IN?
I highlighted my areas of strength as research, creative writing and creative concept including branding and marketing. It became apparent to me that I have enjoyed elements of every stage of the FCP process but specifically enjoyed the executions stage such as branding, ad campaigns, marketing and social media strategy’s (see Appendix 1). From this reflection I decided I wanted to focus my third year proposed ideas on topics which could utilise every stage of the FCP process and have potential for many creative executions.
07 DISABILTY
09 CARTOGRAM
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15
MARKET
CONSUMER
MARKET
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29
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MARKET
HOW FCP?
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TEEN RETAIL
CARTOGRAM
MARKET
CONSUMER
17 HOW FCP?
19 NEXT?
19 NEXT?
Furthermore, with my career aspirations lying in creative marketing, branding and PR, my two topics of interests should develop and display my skills and knowledge of these industry roles. My self devised project therefore should be appropriate for summer 2017 to take to potential employers to display these skills.
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WHAT ARE MY TWO TOPICS OF INTEREST? TOPIC 1. DISABILITY FASHION
TOPIC 2. TEEN FASHION RETAIL
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TOPIC 1. FASHION & DISABILITY
My interest for this topic was sparked when I attended my older sister’s focus group for her dissertation on disability in the fashion industry. Previous to this spark of inspiration I had been reading about diversity in the fashion industry and had felt there were many improvements that needed to be made within gender, ethnicity and disability. I left the focus group feeling incredibly inspired whilst angry at the lack of representation of disabled individuals in the media and inappropriate ad campaigns such as Fig 2. with Kylie Jenner in a wheelchair which on reflection really made my blood boil. Although I do not have a personal link to the topic, in the early stages of researching this topic I have highlighted gaps in the market for disabled fashion labels, retailers and use of disabled models in campaigns and the media. I feel the potential for this project is very vast and has many areas or research from the representation in the media to fashion technology. There are 10 million disabled people that live in the UK with a combined annual spending power in excess of £212 Billion. Therefore why is this potential market being ignored by the fashion industry? (Wing, 2016)
Fig. 1 Lauren Wasser. 2015
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Fig. 2 Kylie Jenner for Interview Magazine. 2015
CARTOGRAM. TREND INNOVATORS
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TREND DRIVERS
TREND IMPACT
TREND CONSEQUENCES
Nike, Oscar Pistorius
Lucy Jones
Alleles
TREND FUTURE
Caspar Schmitz
Diesel Ad Campaign
3D Printed Clothing
Amy Mullins Nike, with Matthew Walzer Tommy Hilfigar
Nike Ad Public Gimmick
Rayn
Victoria Modeska
Alternative Limb Project
Unfold Futuristic Limb
Chanel 4 Paralympics Jillian Mercado
Debenhams Inclusivity Campaign
American Horror Story NordStrom
Jordan Bone Albert Manero
I-D 2010
Tenbo Clothing
Darpa
Rio 2016 Paralympics
Pro Infirmis Madeline Stuart
Kylie Jenner Laura Wesser M&S
Alexander Mqueen
Amputeen
Models of Diversity Creating this cartogram has identified the new and exciting trends within the disability and fashion market. There have been many technological and social advancements in the last 10 years since the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990 was passed. Social Influencers, TV, clothing brands and niche brands are pioneering changes for the future. However, there are still many gaps for the trend future as many clothing brands seem hostile to create new lines for the disabled market.
Fig. 3 Cartogram. 2016
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THE DISABILITY FASHION MARKET. CHARACTERISTICS & FUTURE. Disability in fashion is still a very niche market and is only currently accessible to a very small number of the potiential market. In a TED talk, ‘Talking about Disability’ Celeste Adams (2015) discussed the future of ‘The Chromosapien’ and presented extreamly interesting ideas in how to empower disabled individuals and to remove the stigma and steroytpe which surrounds disability. ‘The Chromosapien will be a new subspecies of human. With technology I believe we can create the superhuman’ (Adams, 2015). In a report by WGSN (2016) , titled ‘Superhumans of the Future’, the future of ‘Power Prosthetics’ was analysed where these technologically advance prosthetics will be more functional than any human limb. Products in development include bespoke bionics both technologically and asthetically, I-limbs, 3D printed prosthetics and smart skin which will allow the wearer to regain the sensation of touch. These advancements and Adams predictation present the superhuman who will be enhanced and discussed in terms of ability, not disability. The initial stages of this ‘new subspecies’ has already begun with innovators such as Amy Mullins and the advertising and
promotion around the 2012 Paralympic games. This was the first mass media narration around the idea of ‘super humans’. ‘When you think of the representation of disabled people in fashion advertising they are either presented as something to be pitied or superhuman’ (Wing 2016; Interview). I have identified three consumers within the market, the superhuman and stylish prosthetic wearers but also the large under represented and forgotten disabled individuals who want to look and feel good. This group should not pitied. Disabled collections, fashion brands or use of disabled models should be for diversity, for awareness and to provide accessibility to the disabled market and not feel tokenistic or false. Many disabled individuals have stated they feel they are disabled by the world they live in more so than their diagnosed disability. Another common issue I found from research was that disabled individuals feel they cannot express their identity and personality through disabled clothing as there are a limited number of disabled clothing brands which suit their needs. This consumer therefore has to either amend clothes themselves or put up with uncomfortable ill fitting pieces. There are many points in the market which need to be improved and analysed to work for the disabled individual.
INNOVATORS
Fig. 4 Chanel 4 Paralympics campaign. 2012
Fig. 5 Sophie de Oliveira Barata founder of The Alternative Limb Project. 2011
EARLY ADOPTERS
EARLY MAJORITY
LATE MAJORITY
LAGGARDS
This consumer is an early adopter as they are pioneering & testing this technology. Wearer’s of fashionable prosthetic limbs are still a very elite, niche group due to accesibility, price and awareness.
CONSUMER PROFILE 1.
CONSUMER PROFILE 2.
THE ‘CHROMOSAPIEN’ SUMER HUMAN.
PROSTHETIC PIONEER’S.
Fig. 6 Superhuman Consumer Moodboard
Fig. 7 Prosthetic Pioneer’s Consumer Moodboard
Superhuman. Use their ability to the fullest. Early adopters & testers of Innovation. This consumer is leading the way for disabled individuals all over the world. They are nuanced by their outlook on what their bodies and technology can do. Individuals who are open to the opportunities technology is providing and reaping the rewards. The super human consumer is encapsulated by Amy Mullins, Viktoria Modesta and James Young.
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Explores of prosthetics; style, aesthetic, use and ability. Express Individuality. Have fun. Many individuals are emerging who want their prosthetic to be a work of art or an accessory to their outfit and not a negative object to be concealed. The Alternative Limb Project creates imaginative limbs with direct input from the client to reflect their interests and personality in a prosthetic (Barata 2016). However, many limitations mean this consumer is very niche despite being a large group of consumers who would love to be a ‘prosthetic pioneer.’
CONSUMER PROFILE 3.
DISABILITY FASHION MARKET.
DISABLED BY SOCIETY
WHAT’S OUT THEIR SO FAR?
Fig. 8 Disabled by my society Consumer Moodboard
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Fig. 9 Disabled fashion market
LUXURY, HIGH END
Alleles
Caspar Schmitz
Lucy Jones
Tommy Hilfigar
Iz Adaptive
Nike
OUTDATED DISABILITY PRODUCTS
The Alternative Limb
INNOVATIVE FASHIONABLE DISABILITY FASHION
Rayn Silverts
Xeni
GAP IN THE MARKET
NHS Prosthetic options
Able to Wear
LOW PRICE, ACCESSIBLE
A forgotten segment in fashion. Aspire to wear fast fashion, express themselves. This consumer wants to look good and feel great whether that be in a wheelchair or with a prosthetic limb. The consumer goes to work, socialises and plays a role in society yet cannot find clothing to fulfill their needs and wants. They dont want special clothes, just the same choices as an abled bodied individual (Wing 2016 : Interview). They want to express their identity through clothing and be able to wear trends with small adaptions which work for them.
There are many gaps in the disability clothing market. - No Fast fashion or trend adoption from disabled clothing lines - No disabled fashion collections at an affordable price - Lack of styles or choice for young people - Large gap in the market for a brand which is innovative, fashionable and promotes expression of personality through disabled clothing at an affordable, accessible price -Most existing brands feel very outdated and have no branding or aesthetic
HOW IS IT ‘FCP’?
HOW MIGHT THIS TRANSLATE INTO A THIRD YEAR PROJECT? This research topic could translate into many project ideas for my third year. My initial primary research has highlighted many problems which need to be solved, the largest being the lack of fashionable and affordable clothing brands which cater to the disabled market and also the lack of disabled models used regularly in fashion advertising. My interview with NTU lecture and researcher of the Disability segment, Julian Wing (2016) highlighted areas of the industry which need to be looked into and also came up with some initial ideas in how the research subject could become a self devised project. This included the concept of customisation for disabled individuals in fast fashion high street stores such as Topshop, Zara and H&M. I will explore this concept more over summer by speaking to individuals about if they feel this could work and talk to brands about the potential for the service. There could also be potential for an App in which a consumer needing alterations for a piece of clothing could put in details, send of the item to receive an altered piece of adaptive clothing which could come from any fast fashion and high street retailer. This would be the first digital app, alteration service for the disabled market and could have great potential.
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My research up to this point has been really interesting but I have mostly used online sources to learn more about the subject. There a very few books or journals which talk about disability and fashion now, and our useful and timely. Therefore I feel primary research will be essential for taking this project forward however it is very important I go over the ethical checklist and terms before I begin to interview and question disabled individuals. This research will greatly inform my ideas and will be the start of gaining insight to then create a big idea. I discussed with Julian the potential to collaborate with a fashion design student who has just created a disability clothing collection as an execution and way to fill a gap in the market. My concept could create the branding, marketing and promotional plan for the brand and fulfil needs of the disabled consumer by price, place and communication. This concept could challenge the current representation of disabled individuals in the fashion industry and be one of the first disabled fashion collections to be targeted at a young, fashionable consumer using digital and social media. Other ways this could become a third year project would be to analyse the perceptions of the public and think of ways to change the opinions and stigma around disability. The 2012 Paralympics is a great example of how an event and campaign changed the opinions and steroypical depictions of disability. This could be another interesting area of research.
Fig. 10 Victoria Modeska 2015 Fig. 11 Amy Mullins for Dazed & Mqueen. 2015
Fig. 12 ‘High & Mighty’ shoot in Vogue. Helmut Newton. 1995
TOPIC 1.
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RESEARCH SO FAR. My research so far has highlighted the huge potential for fashion brands to cater to disabled consumers. Through 3D printing, technology, bespoke services and customised products there are many ways in which fashion and disability can unite and really be something to get excited about!
WHERE TO GO FROM HERE?
The disability market has been said to equal the population of China, so there is a vast potential for this project (Wing 2016 : Interview). See Appendix 4 and 5 for my plans over the summer break and how I will develop my project and the research I have carried out so far.
The most effective example I have come across so far is the 2012 Paralympic games as it really did change perceptions of disability and was the first mass media representation of the superhuman consumer.
‘A fifth of the population has a disability and those people arent being particularly well served’
This event changed peoples perceptions and challenged the stereotype of disability and even what the word itself meant.
I feel as disability and fashion has been so sparsly explored and there are so many improvements that need to be made, this research topic will still be extreamly relevant for 2017 and should utilise technology and digital in all parts of the project from research to execuations.
My project should have a similar effect on viewers of my work and should be inclusive and accessible for the consumer.
74%
(Green, 2015)
of you n 16 (an g viewers a d 56% ged 1 2 felt m o ore co f all viewe rs) mfort about able t d alking watch isabilities a ing th e Para fter lympic s
Disability market is emerging, consumers are equal to the population of China.
Fig. 13 Lucy Jones ‘Seated Design’ collection. 2015 Chanel 4 Parlympic Figure.
(Wing, 2016)
TOPIC 2. TEEN RETAIL MARKET
When beginning my research into third year ideas I kept coming across articles about the teen retail market and the teen consumer. In initial research I looked at Generation Z and felt like a knew a lot about this consumer and the impact they are having on retail and consumption.
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After completling a project on Sleek Makeup, I felt I had explored the young female consumer and had really reflected on how the teen consumer is growing up at such a rate and aspirational values are at their highest. Furthermore, whilst shopping in Victoria Secret a few months ago I was shocked to see the age range instore on a Saturday. 75% of the shoppers in store were under 18 and were not only in the Pink (young collection) part of store but around VS underwear and merchandise. Fig. 15 Louis Vuitton. 2016
After further research I found out how successful the Pink collection has been for VS and found many other brands which had created younger rages to capture the consumer when she is younger so she then grows up with the brand. However, I also found many teen brands are failing and predicted to go into bankruptcy this year. These include Abercrombie & Fitch, Wet-seal and American Apparel. Brands such as Urban Outfitters, American Eagle and Hollister profits are also plummeting. Gen Z has been said to be the most complex consumer, they are technologically savvy and see through brands if they are not genuine or relevant. So how should these consumers be targeted? Fig. 14 Brandy Melville. 2015
CARTOGRAM. TREND INNOVATORS
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TREND DRIVERS
Victoria Secret
TREND IMPACT
American Apparel
TREND CONSEQUENCES
Shareable Experiences
Virtual Reality
Lily Rose Depp
Jayden & Willow Smith
TREND FUTURE
Zara TRF
Brandy Melville Wet Seal
Common Ground Tyler Ford Glee
Cara Delivigne
Technology Instore
Teen Vogue Amandla Stenberg Amazon
Snapchat Missguided
Depop Amanda Jas ASOS
Instagram Zoella
Teen Takeover
Louis Vuitton Adidas
Clicktivists
Tavi Gevinson Urban Outfitters Sarah Ashcroft
Nasty Gal
Lena Dunham
Online Shopping
Miley Cyrus Forever 21 Kardashian Clan
Creating this cartogram has identified the key social influencers and brands which are affecting Generation Z. The future for this market is unclear and moving fast with a group of key celebrities, bloggers and activist leading the way. I have highlighted many brands which really resonate with these consumers, other brands could take note and follow in their footsteps. Fig. 16 Cartogram. 2016
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THE TEEN RETAIL MARKET. CHARACTERISTICS & FUTURE.
My cartogram highlights the Gen Z consumer to be very forward thinking, innovative and smart. It has been predicted that by 2020, Gen Z will be the largest group of consumers in the world (Rai, 2014).
With Gen Z it’s all about appearances, branding and a genuine integrated marketing campaign. Gen Z can pick flaws in brands and see through false blogger endorsements or American style merchandise.
It is these consumers who will set the trends, buying habits, behaviours and pace for the retail industry and they will effect all other consumers. They are complex and gaining their attention even before conversion is the most important stage for brands at the moment (Pike, 2016).
Victoria Secret are a great case study for integrated marketing, with their famous Angels and catwalks, body sprays and social media imagery all appealing heavily to Gen Z girls.
‘They pay less attention but with a sharper and hyper- informed eye’ (Fitch, 2016). It is interesting to note how brands with a ‘college-friendly’ and American culture style, such as American Eagle and Abercrombie & Fitch are having to dig themselves out of declining sales whilst Victoria Secrets college items are selling faster than ever before. NEW PRODUCTS
NEW MARKETS
EXISTING MARKETS
EXISTING PRODUCTS
This consumer group and the teen retail market is a very interesting topic as it is ever changing and at such a fast pace. Many brands in the market may find themselves needing to add new lines, appeal to a new market or re brand all together to stay current with this consumer. It’s an exciting time and exploring what Gen Z will want or buy into before they know it could provide an interesting third year project!
INNOVATORS
EARLY MAJORITY
LATE MAJORITY
LAGGARDS
GEN X&Y See
GEN Z See
Fig. 17 Pink Victoria Secret Store. 2016
EARLY ADOPTERS
Buy
Hunting, searching, reading about trends, recommendations, browsing brands social media. Screen shot’s, favourites, reposts.
Aspirational Browse
Buy
(Adapted diagram. See Appendix 5)
This consumer is in the early majority as although they are extremely forward thinking and current with trends, they want to gain reasurrance from social media and peers on the purchases they make. They are careful with their finances and consume strategically, however they still buy the trends and the hottest products before they go mainstream.
CONSUMER PROFILE 1.
CONSUMER PROFILE 2.
TEEN QUEEN.
CATCH THEM WHILE THEIR YOUNG.
Fig. 18 Teen Queen Consumer Moodboard
Fig. 19 Catch them while their young Consumer Moodboard
Influencer. Curator. Digital Native. Gen Z leader. Born after 1995, 14-19 years old.
The ‘Teen Queen’ influences her peers and adopts trends fast. She documents and discusses everything, has high aspirational values and consumes on a budget. She loves fast fashion but is smart with her finances and cares about sustainability and the provenance of what she consumers. Socially motivated the ‘Teen Queen’ is a smart consumer.
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Activist. Entrepreneur. Realists. Hyper informed opinions. Born after 1995, 14-19 years old.
‘Catch them while their young’ consumer is a Gen Z genius. They’re not bothered about logos or being part of the ‘in crowd’ but want fast fashion brands that feel genuine in helping them create an individual style. They are careful with their finances, the products they consume are price inelastic. This individual is open minded to diversity; in fashion, gender, ethnicity and religion. They are mindful of the future. This consumer is pioneered by inviduals such as Jayden Smith, Amandla Stenberg and Tavi Gevinson.
TEEN FASHION RETAIL MARKET. PRIMARY RESEARCH
TEEN RETAIL. THE BRANDS WHICH DOMINATE THE MARKET
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Fig. 21 Teen retail market
LUXURY, HIGH END
IN BRANDS
OUT BRANDS
ASOS MISSGUIDED PRETTY LITTLE THING RIVER ISLAND URBAN OUTFITTERS ZARA H&M
MATALAN PEACOCKS SUPERMARKET CLOTHING NEW LOOK DOROTHY PERKINS MARKS & SPENCER H&M
HIGH ASPIRATIONAL BRANDS
NOT ASPIRATIONAL
WHAT DO YOU DO IN YOUR SPARE TIME? Oh-Mighty
See Friends
School Work
Online Shopping
LOW PRICE, ACCESSIBLE
DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE? In fashion
Comfortable Clean
Fig. 20 Teen Retail Consumer infographic
Simple
Modern Bold
Shabby
Dressy Modern
The Teen Retail industry has many competitors. This perceptual highlights the key brands to watch in this market - Brands with high aspirational values use social media effectively to capture the imagination of the consumer -Brands like Fila, Adidas and Calvin Klein are brands which have come back into being aspirational in the past year and trickled up from street style and sub cultures
HOW IS IT ‘FCP’?
HOW MIGHT THIS TRANSLATE INTO A THIRD YEAR PROJECT? The Teen retail market is a very interesting sector and the opportunities for targeted marketing to Gen Z present an interesting challenge for brands to not only engage them but stay relevant to this consumer as they grow up. This research topic could translate into many project ideas for my third year. My initial primary research has highlighted brands which are very successful with Gen Z such as Urban Outfitters, Adidas, Brandy Melville and Missguided. Victoria Secret specifically have proved how a diffusion range for the teen market can be an effective way to increase sales, market share and capture the consumer while she’s younger so she will always grow up with VS. This could provide a big idea, if I found a brand such as Cos, who were struggling with sales and wanted to capture Gen Z now so by 2020, they have captured the attention of the largest consumer group. I therefore could create a new diffusion brand, targeted at the 14-19 age group and create a marketing campaign, brand and proposition.
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I found the module on consumer behaviour really fascinating earlier this term and feel researching consumer behaviour and the decision process of Gen Z could be an interesting research area. I could research and look into what makes this consumer in a ‘hot state’ and who and how the Gen Z tribes influence the teen retail market. This research could lead to a big idea in a new way to make Gen Z purchase products and use new forms of technology such as virtual reality or upcoming apps. As part of my initial research I found that brands such as American Eagle, American Apparel, Aeropostale and Wet Seal will disappear in 2016 and go bankrupt (Mcintyre 2015). It could be interesting to re brand or re market one of these brands to fulfil a need or fill a gap in the market. ‘The mall ones a sanctuary for cool teens - is practically turning into a cemetery’ (Schlossberg, 2016). A lot as changed since the ‘hallmark era of the 2000’s’, but the Gen Z consumer really will bring about innovation to the teen retail market.
Fig. 22 Jean Campbell for British Vogue. 2016 Fig. American Apparel. 2016
Fig. 25 Victoria Secret. Bella Hadid. E Online. 2015
TOPIC 1.
WHERE TO GO FROM HERE?
RESEARCH SO FAR. My research so far has highlighted issues in the teen retail market and outlined reasons why brands are struggling to stay relevant. In Mintel’s ‘Youth Fashion UK’ report it was stated that ‘The youth fashion market has continued to see slow growth in 2014, underperforming the total clothing and footwear market as young people remain cautious in their spending’ (Mintel, 2014). Futhermore the report discusses how from online retailers such as Amazon, Ebay, Depop and fast fashion brands such as Missguided, Asos and Bohoo have brought about fierce compeititon to the market where market share is now even harder to gain. The teen consumer has the most choice they ever have and through being a consicous shopper they can buy the product that not only appeals to them the most bet at the best value for money. As branded products such as Hollister, Jack Wills and Abercrombie and Fitch are no longer cool to Gen Z, how can brands add value to their higher end product?
33 ‘Young women have become accustomed to a discounting culture’ (Mintel, 2014). Online retailers such as Missguided, Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing and Missy Empire have perfected using discounting heavily through student discount, free next day delivery and perks to the consumer on a targeted basis such as their birthday, pay day or festvial season. It is parts of integrated marketing like this which really capture the Gen Z consumer. See Appendix 6 and 7 on page 3 for my plans over the summer break and how I will develop my project and the research I have carried out so far. This will include more ethnographic research in stores, a day in the life consumer profile and a focus group.
‘LOOK OUT WORLD, GENERATION Z IS DETERMINED TO CHANGE YOU. A LIFELONG CONNECTION TO TECHNOLOGY IS CREATING A GENERATION THAT PREFERS CAREER STABILITY OVER HIGH SALARIES, ACTIVISM OVER PARTYING AND FRESH FOOD OVER FAST FOOD – AND YOU HAVE EIGHT SECONDS TO CAPTURE THEIR ATTENTION’ (WGSN, 2015).
ILLUSTRATIONS Fig. 1 Rovero, J., (2015). Lauren Wasser [Photograph] Available at: https://i-d.vice.com/en_us/article/how-this-tss-survivorand-amputee-model-is-redefining-beauty (Accessed 13 May 2016).
Fig. 12 Newton, H., (1995). High and Mighty. Vogue [Photograph] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/ fashion/gallery/18907/4/fashion-s-most-extreme-footwear (Accessed 11 May 2016).
Fig. 2 Klein, S., (2015). Kylie Jenner for Interview Magazine [Photograph] Available at: http://www.interviewmagazine. com/culture/kylie-jenner#_ (Accessed 1 May 2016)
Fig. 13 Jones, L., (2015). Lucy Jones Seated Design Collection [Photograph] Available at: http://fashionista.com/2015/05/ lucy-jones-seated-design (Accessed 19 May 2016).
Fig. 3 Cartogram on the disability and fashion market . 2016 [Mood board] Olivia Gascoine.
Fig. 14 Brady Melville Ad Campaign. 2014 [Photograph] Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/carolineshairs/ (Accessed 11 May 2016)
Fig. 4 Channel 4 Paralympics Campaign. (2012) [Photograph] Available at: http://paralympics.channel4.com/competitions/ london-2012/news-pictures/news/newsid=1237103/ (Accessed 11 May 2016). Fig. 5 Lake, A., (2011). Sophie de Oliveria Barata founder of the Alternative Limb Project. Wired Magazine. [Photograph] Available at: http://www.wired.co.uk/article/bling-limbs (Accessed 12 May 2016).
Fig. 15 Weber, B., (2016). Louis Vuitton [Photograph] Available at: http://www.vogue.com/13384178/jaden-smith-louisvuitton-campaign/ (Accessed 5 January 2016). Fig. 16 Cartogram on the Teen Retail Market. 2016 [Mood board] Olivia Gascoine.
REFERENCES Barata, S. (2015). The Alternative Limb Project [Online] Available at: http://www.thealternativelimbproject.com/about/ about-sophie/ (Accessed: 1 May 2016). Celeste, A. (2015). Talking about disability [Online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DNAFNyXfdw (Accessed 1 May 2016). Channel 4. (2012). Paralympic Booklet [Online] Available at: http://www.channel4.com/media/documents/press/news/ Paralympic%20Booklet.pdf (Accessed 5 May 2016). Fitch, (2016). Thought Piece, Gen Z and the future of retail [Online] Available at: (Accessed 10 May 2016). Mintel. (2014). Youth Fashion. December 2014. [Online] Available at: http://store.mintel.com/youth-fashion-uk-december-2014 (Accessed 10 May 2016). Rai, A. (2014). Targeting gen Z: What marketers need to know [Online] Available at: http://www.business-standard.com/ article/management/targeting-gen-z-what-marketers-need-to-know-114092100690_1.html (Accessed: 10 May 2016). Rose, B. (2016). The ‘disruptive’ businesses trying to crack the disability market [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc. co.uk/news/disability-35640804 (Accessed 20 May 2016).
Fig 6. Superhuman Consumer Mood board. 2016 [Mood board] Olivia Gascoine.
Fig. 17 Pink Victoria Secret Store. 2016 [Photograph] Available at: https://www.glassdoor.co.uk/Photos/Victoria-sSecret-Stores-Office-Photos-IMG690679.htm (Accessed 11 May 2016).
Fig. 7 Prosthetic Pioneer’s Consumer Mood board. 2016 [Mood board] Olivia Gascoine.
Fig. 18 Teen Queen Consumer Mood board. 2016 [Mood board] Olivia Gascoine.
WGSN., 92015). Generation Z. WGSN [online] Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_ viewer/#/59313/page/1 [Accessed 11 May 2016).
Fig. 8 Disabled by my society Consumer Mood board. 2016 [Mood board] Olivia Gascoine.
Fig. 19 Catch them while their young Consumer Mood board. 2016 [Photograph] Olivia Gascoine.
Wing, J. (2015). Fashion brands must not ignore disabled customers, study shows [Online] Available at: http://www.ntu.ac.uk/apps/news/182387-15/Fashion_brands_must_not_ignore_disabled_customers_study_shows. aspx (Accessed 1 May 2016).
Fig. 9 Disabled fashion market perceptual map. 2016 [Diagram] Olivia Gascoine
Fig. 20 Teen retail research infographic. 2016 [Diagram] Olivia Gascoine.
Fig. 10 Stechnij, E., (2014). Victoria Modeska. [Photograph] Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/ article-2877998/Meet-Viktoria-Modesta-REAL-bionicwoman.html (Accessed 15 May 2016).
Fig. 21 Perceptual Map on Teen retail market. 2016 [Diagram] Olivia Gascoine.
Fig. 11 Knight, N., (1998). Amy Mullins for Dazed and Confused. Guest edited by Alexander Mqueen [Photograph] Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/ gallery/20297/0/disability-in-fashion (Accessed 15 May 2016).
Fig. 22 Payne, R., (2016). Jean Campbell for British Vogue [Photograph] Available at: http://www.julianwatsonagency. com/news/naoki-komiya-british-vogue-may-2016 (Accessed 17 May 2016).
Schlossberg, M. (2016) Teen retail as we know it is dying [Online] Available at: http://www.businessinsider.my/teen-retailers-are-filing-for-bankruptcy-2016-5/ (Accessed: 11 May 2016).
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McIntyre, D.A. (2015) 10 brands that will disappear in 2016. Available at: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/entry/10-brands-disappear-in-2016_us_56379cdee4b0c66bae5d23fc (Accessed: 12 May 2016). McIntyre, D.A. (2016) 10 brands that will disappear in 2016. Available at: http://247wallst.com/special-report/2015/10/29/10-brands-that-will-disappear-in-2016/ (Accessed: 12 May 2016). Meadows, T. (2009) How to set up and run a fashion label. London: Laurence King Publishing.
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Davis, A.P. (2015) How to pretend you’re part of gen Z so people will like you. Available at: http://nymag.com/ thecut/2015/09/millennials-guide-to-seeming-gen-z.html?mid=pinterest-share-thecut (Accessed: 15 May 2016).
Molina, L. (2016) ‘A Dreamy Trip’, Sportswear International, 271, pp. 48–49.
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Morris, T. and Goldsworthy, S. (2011) PR today: The authoritative guide to public relations. Houndmills, Basingstoke, Hampshire: Palgrave Macmillan. N2K (2016) Inclusive tech for the disabled. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T00JzwgdiQQ (Accessed: 13 May 2016). Newey, M. (2013) ‘Human Enhancement’, Third Floor, .
Fitch, (2016). Thought Piece, Gen Z and the future of retail [Online] Available at: (Accessed 10 May 2016). NG, E. (2015) Adapting Retail for Gen Z – Top 5 Store & Space Trends in Asia. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com. ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/59435/page/1 (Accessed: 5 May 2016).
BIBLIOGRAPHY Oltmans, M.-A. (2015) Copenhagen fashion summit: Making sustainability ’sexy’. Available at: https://fashionunited. uk/news/fashion/study-shows-disabled-people-are-an-emerging-market-for-fashion/2015121618765 (Accessed: 15 May 2016). Paton, M. (2016) The man with the most amazing arm in Britain. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-3593535/The-man-amazing-arm-Britain-charge-phone.html?ito=social-facebook (Accessed: 18 May 2016). Peterson, H. (2014) An obscure Italian brand is suddenly the hottest name in teen retail. Available at: http://www.businessinsider.com/brandy-melville-is-wildly-popular-2014-10?IR=T (Accessed: 7 May 2016). Pike, H. (2016) Tapping generation Z. Available at: http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/tapping-generation-z (Accessed: 6 May 2016).
SHOWstudio (2015) Unseen McQueen: Interview: Aimee Mullins. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqqLI-9aXoA (Accessed: 10 May 2016). Sierra, C. (2015) Stylishly impaired Blog. Available at: https://stylishlyimpaired.wordpress.com/ (Accessed: 11 May 2016). TEDx Talks (2014) Inspiration porn and the objectification of disability: Stella Young at TEDxSydney 2014. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxrS7-I_sMQ (Accessed: 5 May 2016). TEDx Talks (2015a) Talking about disability | Celeste Adams | TEDxYouth@AnnArbor. Available at: https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=5DNAFNyXfdw (Accessed: 10 May 2016). TEDx Talks (2015b) Talking about disability | Celeste Adams | TEDxYouth@AnnArbor. Available at: https://www.youtube. com/watch?v=5DNAFNyXfdw (Accessed: 5 May 2016).
Plummer, L. (2016) ‘Vitural Runway’, Wired Magazine, June 2016, p. 024.
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Temple, D. (2016) ‘Social Influencers’, Glamour, , pp. 144–145.
Powell, M. (2014) Sneakernomics: What is really wrong with teen retail. Available at: http://www.forbes.com/sites/ mattpowell/2014/09/11/sneakernomics-what-is-really-wrong-with-teen-retail/#4d03dc971151 (Accessed: 12 May 2016).
Thop, N. (2016) ‘Tapping into Technology’, Pensions World.
Rai, A. (2014) Targeting gen Z: What marketers need to know. Available at: http://www.business-standard.com/article/ management/targeting-gen-z-what-marketers-need-to-know-114092100690_1.html (Accessed: 10 May 2016). Raymond, M. and Martin, R. (2010) The trend forecaster’s handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing. Riley, E. (2013) ‘Bionic Being’, Third Floor, . Robinson, S. (2015) How Missguided won over Fast-Fashionistas with trigger-based marketing. Available at: https:// blogs.oracle.com/marketingcloud/how-missguided-won-over-fast-fashionistas-with-trigger-based-marketing (Accessed: 20 April 2016). Rose, B. (2016). The ‘disruptive’ businesses trying to crack the disability market [Online] Available at: http://www.bbc. co.uk/news/disability-35640804 (Accessed 20 May 2016). Schlossberg, M. (2016a) Teen retail as we know it is dying. Available at: http://uk.businessinsider.com/teen-retailersare-filing-for-bankruptcy-2016-5?r=US&IR=T (Accessed: 15 May 2016). Schlossberg, M. (2016b) Teen retail as we know it is dying. Available at: http://www.businessinsider.my/teen-retailers-are-filing-for-bankruptcy-2016-5/ (Accessed: 11 May 2016). Schlossberg, M. and Lutz, A. (2015) The top 50 brands that cool teenage girls love. Available at: http://uk.businessinsider.com/goldman-sachs-coolest-teen-retail-brands-2015-11?r=US&IR=T (Accessed: 30 May 2016).
Trent, N. (2016) Fashion brands must not ignore disabled customers, study shows - news - news and events - Nottingham Trent University. Available at: http://www.ntu.ac.uk/apps/news/182387-15/Fashion_brands_must_not_ignore_ disabled_customers_study_shows.aspx (Accessed: 20 May 2016). Volcipelli, G. (2016) ‘Walk This Way’, Wired Magazine, June 2016. WGSN (2015) 10 Ways Retailers Can Service the Gen Z Consumer. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk/ content/board_viewer/#/63423/page/1 (Accessed: 2 May 2016). WGSN (2016) Modern Retail Marketing – Challenges & Talent Gaps. Available at: http://www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu. ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/65956/page/1 (Accessed: 5 May 2016).
Apendix 2. Page 1 SWOT applied to the tasks, projects and modules I have carried out so far on FCP.
APPENDIX
Insight-
S
W
-FRAGRANCE BRANDING MODULE; GAINED SKILLS IN BRANDING & CREATING BRAND PERSONALITY, VISUAL CODES -SLEEK FASHION FILM. LEARNT HOW TO CREATE AN INTEGRATED MARKETING CAMPAIGN FOR A BRAND -
-GRAMMAR & SPELLING -ILLUSTRATION -BOOK BINDING -WEBSITE DESIGN -COMMUNICATING IDEAS TO LARGE GROUPS OF PEOPLE - EXPERIENCE IN SOCIAL MEDIA OR STYLING -VARYING LAYOUT & DESIGN RECIPE
-INTERNSHIP AT SKY -INTERNSHIP AT MISSGUIDED -INTERVIEW WITH JULIAN WING - TO SPEAK TO INDUSTRY LEADERS -SELF PROMOTION -WIDER READING OVER SUMMER -WORKING IN A TEAM
-WORKING TO A DEADLINE -FEELING STRESSED -SELF DOUBT -FINDING FURTHER INTERNSHIP -CONFIDENCE PRESENTING ALONE -WORKING INDEPENDENTLY -MANAGING A JOB AND FCP
T
O Apendix 1. Page 1
S -CREATIVE WRITING -BRANDING -PR WORK EXPERIENCE -COMMUNICATING IDEAS -CONTACTS IN INDUSTRY -DIGITAL MEDIA -TIME KEEPING -SOCIAL MEDIA -VISUAL AWARENESS
SWOT applied to myself Insight- I have created a SWOT to discover my strengths and areas of improvement.
My strengths mirror many of my interests and career aspirations in PR, branding and digital.
Insight- Having evaluated my skills and highlighting these areas as branding, marketing, social media, research, PR and digital I have plotted these on the FCP Process in relation to the area of industry I am interested in.
EXECUTION
ART DIRECTOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER PRODUCT DESIGN CREATIVE CONCEPT STYLIST BRANDING EDITOR MARKETING SOCIAL MEDIA CREATIVE DIRECTOR COMMUNICATIONS PR THE BIG IDEA
TREND FORECASTER DATA ANALYST CONSUMER RESEARCH PR ECOMMERCE OPERATIONS CONTEXT
T ES ER
This is therefore Context and the big idea.
FILMER PHOTOGRAPHER COPY WRITER EVENT MANAGER DIGITAL
INT
T
My interests in industry roles as applied to the FCP Process
OF
O
-WORKING TO A DEADLINE -FEELING STRESSED -SELF DOUBT -FINDING FURTHER INTERNSHIP -CONFIDENCE PRESENTING ALONE -WORKING INDEPENDENTLY -MANAGING A JOB AND FCP
Apendix 3. Page 1
EA
-INTERNSHIP AT SKY -INTERNSHIP AT MISSGUIDED -INTERVIEW WITH JULIAN WING - TO SPEAK TO INDUSTRY LEADERS -SELF PROMOTION -WIDER READING OVER SUMMER -WORKING IN A TEAM
-GRAMMAR & SPELLING -ILLUSTRATION -BOOK BINDING -WEBSITE DESIGN -COMMUNICATING IDEAS TO LARGE GROUPS OF PEOPLE - EXPERIENCE IN SOCIAL MEDIA OR STYLING -VARYING LAYOUT & DESIGN RECIPE
AR
However for the sector I would like to go into I need to improve on my presentation skills and my experience in online and social media.
W
METHODOLOGY.
METHODOLOGY.
PLAN OF ACTION OVER SUMMER- DISABILITY FASHION
RESEARCH I HAVE CARRIED OUT- DISABILITY FASHION Apendix 4. Page 2
Apendix 5. Page 2
Research Method
Sample Type
Participants
Purpose
Strengths
Weaknesses
Outcomes
Interview
One person
Julian Wing
To discuss gaps in the disability market, discuss potential ideas for third year and note down brands and individuals to contact for further research.
Highlight many areas which could be interesting to research. Sparked inspiration to research and make changes in the industry and improve the market for disabled individuals. Gained contacts, details to an event on fashion and disability and highlighted key opinions from disabled individuals.
Needed more time to discuss other areas.
Helped me set my ideas of how this research topic could become a self devised project.
Unbiased results, highlighted points I had not considered previously. Often lifts, or disabled access was at the back of store and point of sale could be difficult to shop for some disabled individuals. No disabled clothing in any stores. Saw no wheelchair users in any stores. Interesting results.
Shop assistants and managers were apprehensive to make any comments regarding disability clothing lines or access in store.
Ethnographic
Range of shoppers in Nottingham city centre in high street stores, Zara, Topshop, H&M, TK Max, M&S and John Lewis.
Observations of shoppers and in store. No participants involved.
To see if any high street stores had clothing which could be adapted easily for a disabled individual. Analyse the access and infrastructure of stores for disabled shoppers and see if any disabled lines of clothing are in store
Was more of an discussion that an interview as the conversation flowed in many directions and slightly went in a tangent but in a positive way.
May find in larger or flagships stores some disability clothing lines in for example M&S may be in store. Difficult to ask approach disabled individuals appropriately to ask questions.
Invited to an event on the 23rd June, discussing fashion and disability with speakers so that will be a great opportunity for more primary research.
Confirmed my preconceptions that fast fashion high street stores do not stock any disabled fashion lines in store. Noticed that Topshop’s store has limited access for wheelchair users and no lift to easily use to enter Topman downstairs. Could be interest
Development I have spoken to Julian since the interview and will have another interview with him when my ideas and insights are more specific and informed.
Research Method
Sample Type
Participants
Purpose
Strengths
Weaknesses
Outcomes
Interviews
10+ Over Summer I would like to interview
Sophie de Oliveira Barata.
To discuss various areas of disability and fashion and see what these individuals are doing to make change.
These individuals are all specialists in their field and will have well educated and insightful opinions on the subject.
These individuals are all very busy and may not respond to my emails or calls initially.
I hope this will give me more information and highlight more insights that will lead to my bid idea.
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Models of diversity. Lucy Edwards.
I could improve this research method by trying a focus group with students of fashion design and some disabled individuals to gather more research. To develop this research I could try contacting head office of these high street brands and asking about their store layouts and lack of collections for the disability market. When interviewing disabled individuals I could ask which stores they buy from and which they avoid.
I have contacted individuals to organise interviews however these will take place over summer and for some I haven’t received a reply yet. These include speaking to MA student Sophie Neff who is currently working on disabled knitwear collection, Leanne Westbury a second year at NTU creating a line of bomber jackets for wheelchair users and I have tried contacting Lauren Wasser, Instagrammer ‘theimpossiblemuse’ to talk about her vision and work for disability.
Jordon Bone.
Sky Disabled bloggers
Twitter Poll Research on Social media tapping into social on groups and networks
-
Online users
Ask what products, gaps in the market and issues they think need to be solved with fashion and disability. Users online cluster together and create groups to discuss similar interests & opinions. There are many groups online for disabled people. Contacting these groups will be useful to see what topics or brands interest them.
Specifically Jordon Bone and Lucy Edwards will have an interesting perceptive being disabled beauty and fashion bloggers. Could lead to gaining other contacts. Individuals might feel more confident to answer questions online and express their opinions more openly online. It will be interesting to observe how these individuals use the groups and to understand the consumer nuances more.
May have to be skype interviews due to location.
I will need to highlight that this is an area of research so I can improve the market and highlight issues and problems in the market currently.
When I have spoke to these individuals, this may lead to being told about events, other people, organisations or brands to research and contact. Will also improve my skills in interviewing and networking.
Sky may be apprehensive to make comments on the disabled market so I will have to word my questions effectively. These groups online may be difficult to find or get access too.
Development
I hope this will teach me more about the consumer and the fashion industry can market products and brands which suit them.
-
Not feel intrusive.
Over summer I want to think of ways I could research creatively and will also grow my confidence in talking about the subject. I want to talk to disabled fashion bloggers, brands and create contacts with people who could help my project come to life. I will also be attending a talk on disability and fashion with Julian which should be a great opportunity to ask questions and get an insight into the industry.
METHODOLOGY.
METHODOLOGY.
PLAN OF ACTION OVER SUMMER- TEEN RETAIL
RESEARCH I HAVE CARRIED OUT- TEEN RETAIL
Apendix 7. Page 3
Apendix 6. Page 3 Research Method
Sample Type
Participants
Purpose
Strengths
Weaknesses
Outcomes
Short Interview Questions
5 female 14-19 year olds
Belle Rodgers
To gain an insight into the 14-19 age group. I wanted to find out where these consumers shop, where they thinks out of fashion and what they do in their spare time.
This helped me create consumer profiles and find out nuances in the consumer.
Being over the internet answers were quite short and not fully in detail.
This research helped me create consumer profiles and understand the consumer more.
It was interesting to see where consumers thought weren’t fashionable which included H&M and New Look.
Results were quite mixed, brands mentioned overlapped being fashionable and unfashionable.
To see the age group of consumers in these stores. To see the imagery and how the instore experience and VM appeals to GEN Z
It was useful to see how many 1419 year olds were in fast fashion stores such as H&M, Topshop and Urban Outfitters. A lot of these consumers seemed to browse the store but not make purchases.
Izzie Rodgers Maddie Rodgers Megan Meeks Amy Clarke
Ethnographic
Range of shoppers in Nottingham city centre in high street stores, Topshop, H&M, New Look, River Island, Primark and Urban Outfitters
Observations of shoppers and in store. No participants involved.
It supported my preconceptions of what I thought they did in their spare time.
It was effective to look at what this generation are wearing, which brands, styles, identities.
It takes longer to get a sample together having to get consent from parents as well as child. It can be difficult to guess consumers ages. It can be difficult to observe consumers for a long period of time without looking strange, however it is effective in the way people act naturally and you can observe peoples unconscious shopping habits and see what products they are drawn to in store.
It highlighted to myself that it will be harder to research this consumer with the consumer being young.
Development
I should think of more creative ways I could research this age group and how I could engage them to then get very honest and insightful results.
Research Method
Sample Type
Participants
Purpose
Strengths
Weaknesses
Outcomes
Creative focus group.
5 female 14-19 year olds
To be arranged and choosed over Summer
To learn more about the Generation Z consumer. Find out about their buying behaviour, what motivates them, influencers etc. The participants should bounce off each other and create an informal conversation.
I will use images, products and film to make this focus group fun and interactive.
Focus groups can be quite difficult to get started and a younger consumer may find it difficult or intimidating to speak in front of a group and myself.
Hopefully this will identify possible brands which I could re brand or create a big idea to create a new diffusion line aimed at Gen Z.
-
I am aiming to gain industry advice and talk to brands to hear how they target Gen Z
Industry specialists will be highly informed in this topic and will be a valid primary source of information
These people may be difficult to find and contact. Only a select few may want to comment so using my existing contacts could be the most efficient way to carry out this research
This research could lead to some really interesting insights and will be from a brand point of view. I should utilise any work experience I do to ask people in the industry their thoughts.
-
To create a creative, visual depiction of a day in the life of a 14 year old.
Will outline what she wears, eats, what technology she uses, how she spends her time and the friends or family she socialises with
Would be most effective to document her day myself. If Belle was to take the images herself she may created a biased representation.
This will develop my consumer profile and outline further nuances for this consumer.
If this works effectively I could choose other participants to also do a day in the life with.
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I could also develop this research by asking the questions in person to analyse body language and make questions more tailored.
My main insight was that Gen z have high aspirational values and no longer shop in the younger collections in store but shop the whole store.
It would be interesting to follow a group of girls round and see how they act differently in stores. I.e in New Look 9/15 compared to Topshop.
Whilst in store I noticed every young person checked their smart phone at some point in store.
It would be more effective to talk to staff and ask about the range of ages in store.
Interview Industry specialists
-
To be further researched and contacted Sky colleagues at Internship if possible
Day in the life
One female 14 year old
Belle Rodgers
I could even take the focus group around shops and see what they like and what they don’t think works. I will ask about virtual reality in store and what brands they wish did younger lines i.e. Cos, Whistles.
Development
It would be useful to use 14-19 year olds I know so this doesn’t effect the results and insight.
Over summer I want to keep up to date with brands and their efforts to market in teen retail. I will do so by reading websites such as BOF, Fashionista, Vogue, Teen Vogue and many more. I will also use social media to track traffic and social influencers who are affecting the Generation Z consumer. I will continue doing ethnographic research when I’m in stores and keep developing my knowledge of the research subject.
I mean are you going to developing a range or creating some sort of identity for a brand?
INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT. WITH JULIAN WING. Julian- There’s a brand called beta brand, there linked to the open style lab, which is linked to MIT, Massachusetts Institute of Technology. They work with disability people on products like the raincoat which is an interesting project you might want to look at in terms of on kind of the fashion brand that’s working with technology that serving disabled customers. It’s only one product but it’s worth looking at in terms of their model, the way that they market that product Also if you look online at IZ collection Olivia – Yeah I have looked at them Julian – Which there interesting because there a bit more trend led Olivia – And the starting of where she went from and then how she moved into it, quite interesting Julian- So that’s worth looking at. I’ve been speaking to someone called Annabel, who has started a children’s disabled clothing brand called Racketys and she’s just had here entire collection lifted by M&S because for the last 10 years or so she produced a range of kids wear and baby wear for disabled kids and babies and due to pressure from M&S’s Facebook campaign, loads of disabled children’s parents came together and said why cant we have a line of clothing for disabled clothing. She would be interesting to look at as a case study of a brand which I suppose put time into developing products and retailing and being able to make products to a certain price level because obviously for a small company its more restrictive but M&S are a big company and now there doing this whole range so that’s something quite interesting to look at. Olivia- Do you think they will carry on stocking it now? Julian- I think it might be a fad. Olivia- Because I read about Tommy Hilfiger how they’ve created a line and I thought I wonder how long this will last Julian- Yep, Limited Olivia- I do think I am jumping right to executions and ideas but I’m thinking if I did present the idea of say a brand that could possibly have a line would it be feasible and realistic to say that they would stock it and a tab on there website and it would be ongoing Julian- A lot of the stuff around disability is you know a little bit tokenistic and temporary. There’s been campaign with Debenhams a few years ago, I think 2012 and they used disabled models in their campaigns but again there’s no consistency around that. Because disability is a complex field you know when you think of the product, you think about the consumer and you think about the social economic factors because a lot of disabled people are limited by the incomes from disability. When you think of body image, the representation of disabled people and fashion advertising your either kind of presented as something to be pitied often or superhuman like you said. We’ve now got this generation of paralympians who are very fit and often use prosthetics and almost look like a cartoon character from Marvel there like X men. It kind of elevates them to this interesting super human status.
Olivia- Yeah, it would more be the branding. I think as well I would really like to come up with an integrated marketing strategy how I’d use PR, loads of area. I am wary though because obviously I want it look really effective but its about what are the right visual codes, should the models be really attractive or is that sort of taking away from what its about but then its still got to make money. Julian- I mean lots of disabled people I’ve spoken to have said, we don’t want special clothes we just want the same choices as everyone else. We want to be able to go into a shop and buy a pair of trousers that maybe look the same but are maybe just a little bit different to fit me because I’m in a wheelchair. Maybe you could focus on that, on big brands that are doing inclusive garments. Where designers who are focusing on inclusivity and then put a campaign together where you are mixing disabled and non disabled people together next to each other and putting them on the same level. Your visuals could be very much about equality. Diesel did a campaign with a model a few years ago Jillian Mercado the photography was very interesting there were lots of different angles and they put a disabled person next to a non disabled person so maybe look for equality more than solely disability. I mean you could look at advertising from Benetton over the last few years as they’ve looked at things like equality and they’ve been quite provocative adverts that explored these subjects. I suppose it’s about empowerment, making people feel empowered and sexy. You know thinking about a disabled model in Russia Victoria Modeska, she has a prosthetic leg and a lot of her advertising is very reminiscent of 1950’s Betty Paige kind of glamour and sort of risqué glamour modeling. So again disabled people want to feel sexy, so I mean trying to find ways of normalizing the images is part of the challenge. Olivia- I watched this video and it was about this guy who had been in an accident and he was in a wheelchair and there was a charity brand that helped fixed his jeans. With like the back part and it reminded me of pregnancy jeans and it made me think how many of those are on the market, it wasn’t a complex alteration to make and it really improved his quality of life. And with this IZ designer I was looking at the products and obviously it is fashionable compared to other products but its still not very appealing to a highly fashion conscious consumer. It doesn’t buy into any current trends or look new for a season. I was thinking about fast fashion, and not doing fast fashion but speeding up like how could that Julian- Well if you could offer, like say for example Topshop or Zara and a disabled person could go in and say, I really like this dress but I’m a wheelchair user, what are the options for an alteration service. When I was working for a lady many years ago on a product on disability and fashion several people actually said you know what we want is good quality service, people that understand our needs in terms of our disability or can think outside the box. They want an alteration service, they want to be able to take it and say I’m a wheelchair user or the fastenings don’t work for me are there any other options so actually its about being clever about the design. Alteration services are cropping up a lot in conversations I’ve had. Fashion is a mass-market product, and everything’s the same. You know you’ll M&S will buy a thousands blouses or 10,000 pairs of trousers and they will all be the same. The business model is out of date. Customization is really important I mean maybe technology’s moved on maybe there’s ways customize clothing in a different way with garment. That might be an online thing or an App you might be able to customize things. Olivia – Yeah I have been thinking about things like that
INTERVIEW TRANSCRIPT.
There’s an event on the 29th you might like to come to. It’s a discussion on fashion and disability and Dr Janina. So come along to that event and you’ll find out more.
WITH JULIAN WING.
Olivia – That’s been really helpful, thank you. It’s given me lots too think about.
Julian – In your concept you could create a customizing app a kind of platform where a disabled person can collaborate with production so the whole focus is on customer personalization
Julian - Fashion design right now are doing a project for wheelchair users so you’ve got a massive group of fashion designers that are doing a project. So speak to Dawn Erre and say can you see the design work when you present and say you’ve spoken to Julian and youd really like to see all the work they’ve done. So you can come around with us and look at there design work and that from a product point of you. You could even collaborate with one of them FD2 and market their collection its all theoretical its all on paper, but you could help market there range.
Olivia- Even with Asos Stylists how you brand ambassadors consumers look to for style inspiration and the ambassador they appeal to and then Asos give you recommendations to how to get the look but its still computerized and general. With the Alternative Limb Project, its effective because of the close relationship the designer and consumer have and how she understands the consymers style and what they want, if you could create that kind of feeling on a more mass scale it could be really effective. Julian- and also focus on maybe your concept could focus on social media. At the moment there are a good handful of fashion blogs for disabled people so tap into some of those and think this is where the market sits, what do they want to respond to so read some of those blogs, analyze what’s being said, look for what disabled people want. Maybe you could do some analysis of those blogs do some primary research of okay I’ve picked up of some of these wants and needs these are my recommendations. Interviews do some good interviews. Just say, if you could change the fashion world right now what would you do. Actually that could be your campaign. You could feature 6-7 fashion bloggers in your marketing campaign this women says this, this could be a solution for this.
Olivia- Yeah, I had been thinking about that. I could photograph it, do a look book, style it. Julian- Yep I mean that would be perfect and your collaborating, its all new work its trends for teens add that with your social media and you’ve got a cracking project. Olivia- So have they finished there garments now? Julian- Yep, and there going to be judged in a few days time. So speak to Dawn Erre say you spoke to me and you would like to view them soon because you might like to potentially collaborate and offer your marketing expertise around actually creating a campaign which is great for their portfolio and great for yours. Olivia- Great thankyou!
Very commonly big organizations do the you said we did. We use it here, they’ll do staff feedback and then promote this by saying staff said canteen was rubbish; we’ve build new canteen. Business often start from problems. Opportunities arrive from problems so maybe if you highlight the problems and then could sell solutions, and that can be at the heart of your campaign. The takeaway from focusing not on disability but focusing on what the problem is with the garment because a lot of what we’ve heard over the years is about the social model of disability, and you should read up on that. That says that actually it’s the environment, which disables people more than their physical disability. That could be architecture it could be fashion, art design. And actually your campaign could be not so much on disability but this is the problem with the garment this is the solution. That could be an interesting way. You could show a person with disability that actually the focus is on the garment. Olivia – It takes it away from being this group need help, this group need things to be changed. Julian- these are my requirements; I used to say that a lot. It’s about what people need from a product, not I’ve got a disability. What do you need that thing to be? Olivia – Personalisation is a massive trend in many sectors Julian- Personalisation, customization, brands particularly I using my targeted media with their email newsletters, developing new data systems to understand the differences in consumers and how to target them. Not the kind of mass approach any more with billboards or magazines, newspapers or TV. It’s all very personalized and tailored campaigns.
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