TREND ANALYSIS. AW15/16
OLIVIA GASCOINE. N0574952.
CONTENTS 2 The trends for AW15/16 3-4 The trends categories 5-8 Brands and designers taking the trend 9-10 Motivations and behaviours 11-12 The Big Easy 13-14 Origin of duvet days trend 15-16 If the trend was a person 17-18 Street style 19-20 Editorials and magazines 21-22 Official Trend reports 23-24 The trend in discussion
TRENDS FOR AW15-16
SUIT REBOOT
THE BIG EASY
No longer just for the office, Lengths, layers and laziness suits relax with intellectual takes over the normcore lengths, pinstripe and pop style. Always chic and insta colours. ready. For AW15/16 normcore and suits reboot with tailoring transformations, The relaxed fit combines with clever styling and instagram ready styles. The trends began by individuals and social influencers on instagram and blogs. The new styles flatter with high necks and low hems a minimal aesthetic, chic yet stylised.
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THE TRENDS WHICH FOLLOW...
LAZY LENGTHS SUIT REBOOT
SHOW YOUR STRIPES
COLOUR CLASH
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THE BIG EASY
OUT OF OFFICE REPLIES
DUVET COAT DAYS
INTELLECTUAL LENGTHS
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PYJAMA DRESSING
BRANDS AND DESIGNERS TAKING THE TREND...
SHOW YOUR STRIPES
Which designers and brands have taken the trend for their AW15 collections?
COSTUME NATIONAL
AGANOVICH LANVIN
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
SPORT MAX
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
PAUL SMITH EMPORIO ARMANI
RAG AND BONE
OUT OF OFFICE REPLIES
COLOUR CLASH
GUCCI TOPSHOP
JILL SANDER
DIOR
DKNY
VERSACE
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LANVIN
JOSEPH ALTUZARRA
ROKSANDA ILINCIC
PRADA
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
DIOR
MICHEAL KOR6
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CUSHNIE ET OCHS
MUGLER
BRANDS AND DESIGNERS TAKING THE TREND... Which designers and brands have taken the trend for their AW15 collections?
COMME DES GARCONS
PYJAMA DRESSING
INTELLECTUAL LENGTHS
DUVET COAT DAYS
CELINE
COS
MOSCHINO
FENDI
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
MAX MARA
CELINE
J CREW
ANTONIO BERARDI
LOEWE
MAX MARA
VICTORIA BECKHAM
CHLOE
ZARA
STEVEN ALAN
LADY ADDICT
STELLA MCCARTNEY
MARC JACOBS
CHARLIE MAY
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JILL SANDER
WHISTLES
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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
MOTIVATIONS AND BEHAVIOURS OF CONSUMERS WHO WEAR... SHOW YOUR STRIPES
In a male dominated business environment the stripe suit in tailored slim line styles oozes sophistaction with a masculine sleek edge. Wearers of this trend are motivated by tailored, fitted and smart on trend pieces. These women know how to work the trend in the office and after hours. COLOUR CLASH
The colour clash trend follower is confident and fun. They are motivated by key seasonal pieces and driven by colours and nostalgic, experimental trends. OUT OF OFFICE REPLIES
Out of office replies involves sexy, casual and relaxed suits where the wearer is motivated by the sultry twist on a classic suit. They love a plunge neck line matched with heels and a clutch.
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MOTIVATIONS AND BEHAVIOURS OF CONSUMER WHO WEAR... DUVET COAT DAYS
Dream provoking duvet day coats are for the fashionably underdressed. The trend is quirky, futuristic and often city sleek. Cushioned and quilted, the wearer likes to portray an effortless aesthetic. With undone hair and a no makeup look this trend is favoured for busy winter days. INTELLECTUAL LENGTHS
Intellectual, calculated and classy, the lengths trend is for the city professional power dresser. This trend is never shy, super sharp and super layered. Wearers of this trend will intimidate. PYJAMA DRESSING
Normcore wearers go one step further with the PJ trend. Coord’s emphasize the comfort, slinky look in knits and cottons. Wearers feel understated and chic in nudes and browns.
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THE BIG EASY TREND. ANALYSIS AND IN THE MEDIA
MAX MARA AW15-16
WHERE HAS THE TREND ORIGINATED FROM?... Duvet coat days
WHITE COATS WORN BY HAUTE COUTURE WORKERS.
1937 CHARLES JAMES QUILTED JACKET. This jacket was designed for Mrs Oliver Burr Jennings and was constructed in the same way as an eiderdown bed quilt.
1970 NORMA KAMALI SLEEPING BAG JACKET. She was inspired from a camping trip where her sleeping bag kept her warm and she thought it would be perfect for winter.
AW/99 MAISON MARGIELA
Bill Cunningham’s article ‘Nothern Comfort’ in the New York Times devoted to the duvet coat. March 19, 2000
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Maison Margiela with H&M collection 2012. Duvet coat
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PYJAMA DRESSING
DUVET COAT DAYS
INTELLECTUAL LENGTHS
IF THE TREND WAS A PERSON... CHARLIE MAY 15.
Charlie May is a Consumer who personifies the lazy lengths trend. Her motivation to the trend includes her normcore values, instragram branding and keeping a consistently simple approach to her style.
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THE TREND ON THE STREETS
The lazy length trend has regularly been snapped by street style photographers this AW15. Fashion bloggers, celebrities and members of the fashion world have been embracing all parts of the trend including duvet coats, pyjama co-ordinates and tailored, layered casual wear. This trend not only looks chic and eye-catching but has practical and comfortable benefits.
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EDITIORAL & MAGAZINE Featured in Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle, Grazia and wonderland the duvet days day wear, lazy lengths and intellectual layers have featured regularly online and in print.
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TREND REPORTS
WGSN TREND FORECASTS
Referred to as ‘The Big Easy’ by The Trend Council the lazy lengths dressing trend is linked with relaxed attitudes but with a precise vision and outcome. The trends aim is to look effortlessly on trend whilst unpolished.
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HOW HAS THE TREND BEEN DISUCCSED?
EXTRACTS OF COPY DISCUSSING THE TREND
‘PYJAMA DRESSING’ The S/S16 loungewear inspired looks filters down to the streets of New York.Cut from luxurious fluid silks and satins, these relaxed and loose ensembles walk the line between cosy and sophisticated. WGSN
‘DUVET COATS’ For Fall/Winter 2014-2015, quilting is no longer just a feature on bags and leather goods. Worn as a coat, upholstery-style fabric enveloped feminine silhouettes in a cosy cocoon, fashionable protection against sub 32°F temperatures. ‘ALL OVER KNITS’ One of the most prominent trends for Winter was the comfortingly soft, full look in wool, as seen at Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs and Céline. This trend works best in neutral tones. Bocadolobo
Lounge-inspired: easy-fitting silhouettes such as the pyjama suit take inspiration from loungewear styles, with functional zip-through and drawstring details. Bocadolobo
‘DUVET DRESSING’ Modern quilting is being updated with sumptuous textures, depth and volume. Triggered by Maison Martin Margiela’s collaboration with H&M last year which saw the launch of the duvet coat, softly quilted and puffy proportions are only set to grow, as designers look to the cosy comfort of snug duvet days for inspiration this autumn/winter season. WSGN
‘SHIFTING STYLE’ From what we saw, there was a definite shift this season toward looser, baggier, and odder forms than what’s been occupying hangers lately. For anyone whom exaggerated proportions and aggressive cozines are synonymous with, this is your season. The Refinery 29
‘PYJAMA TWO PIECES’ Offering an off-duty luxe appeal, the pyjama set continues to stand its ground. With a throw-on, relaxed silhouette, slinky two-pieces and belted sets are cut in plush silks and sumptuous satins, or printed and embossed with dainty floral repeats and piped at the seams.
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REFERENCES AND BIBLIOGRAPHY Gladwell, M., 2000. The Tipping Point: How Little Things Can Make a Big Difference. London: Little, Brown and company. Leaper, C., 2015. The Autumn 2015 Trend Report: Your Ultimate Guide To The New Fashion Season. Marie Claire [online] Avalabiable at http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/fashion/548907/aw15-fashion-trend-report-the-best-women-s-fashion-trends-for-autumn-winter-2015.html [Accessed 28 September 2015] Lewis, H and Harold, T., 2015. Trend Report autumn/winter 2015-16. Global Blue [online] Avaliable at http://www.globalblue.com/destinations/trend-report-aw15/ [Accessed 28 September 2015] Newbold, A., 2015. 5 ways to spruce up your work suit. The Telegraph [online] Avaliable at http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/style/how-to-revamp-work-suits/ [Accessed 15 September]. Olivier, L., 2015. Suit Reboot. Vogue. [online] Available at http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/ trends/2015-16-autumn-winter/suit-reboot-two-piece-tailoring-trend [Accessed 14 September 2015]. Wang, C., 2015. Out Of All The Pre-Fall Collections, These Are The 20 You Need To Know. Refinery 29 [online] Avaliable at http://www.refinery29.com/pre-fall-trends-2015#slide [Accessed 15 September]. Raymond, M., 2010. The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing. Singer, O., 2015. Duvet Day: The Best of Feather Filled Fashion. Another [online]. Avaliable at http://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/7592/duvet-day-the-best-of-feather-filled-fashion [Accessed 1 October]. Stansield, T., 2015. Why Prada’s new campaign isn’t as sugar sweet as you think. Dazed. [online] Avaibale at http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/25316/1/pradas-aw15-campaign-isntas-sugar-sweet-as-you-think [Accessed 1 October 2015]. Staff, G., 2015. We Break Down The Top Trends For Autumn Winter 2015. Grazia [online] Avaliable at http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/trends/aw15-trends-fashion-week-autumn-winter2015-20150337292#image-9 [Accessed 1 October 2015]. WGSN, 2014. Key Items A/W 15/16 – Suits & Sets. WGSN [online]. Avaiable at www.wgsn.com. ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk [Accessed 16 September 2015]. WGSN, 2014. Pop suits: womenswear emerging trend. WGSN [online]. Avaliable at www.wgsn. com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk [Accessed 16 Septemeber 2015]. WGSN, 2015. Loungewear Forecast Design Capsule S/S 17: Women – Pause. WGSN [online]. Avaliable at www.wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk [Accessed 16 September 2015].
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FASH20031: COMMUNICATION & MESSAGE