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HEirlOOmS aNd
curated COllECtiONS
S E P T E M B E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 2 0 • V O L U M E 1 8 • I S S U E 5
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Chris Christen 402-444-1094 | chris.christen@owh.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR & DESIGNER Jessica Thompson 402-444-1120 | jthompson@owh.com
StOrE HOurS tuES-Sat, 10-5 SuN, 12-4 Shop our online Store • prairieinbloom.com 1702 Cuming Street Omaha, NE 68102 402-502-5265
ASSISTANT EDITOR Marjie Ducey 402-444-1034 | marjie.ducey@owh.com COPY EDITOR Pam Richter ON THE COVER Horseshoe Bend, Arizona, February 2020 Photographed by Kiley Cruse CONTENT CONTRIBUTORS Kiley Cruse,Vanessa Denney, Sandra Ducey, Monica Freeborn, Julie Johnson, Kurt A. Keeler, Dianne McMillan, Daniel Muller, Anna Reed, Renay Robison-Scheer, Kendall Scheer, Karissa Sears, Lily Smith, Heidi Yttri, Tammy Yttri CUSTOM PUBLISHING SALES MANAGER Eric Mayberry 402-444-1110 | emayberry@owh.com ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVES Deborah Fernsell | 402-444-1209 | dfernsell@owh.com Marilyn Martin | 402-444-1405 | marilyn.martin@owh.com EVENTS Tam Webb | 402-444-3125 | tam.webb@owh.com
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CONTENTS DESIGN DONE RIGHT 8
THIS IS US
HISTORIC GEM 13
KEEPERS OF HISTORY
LUXURY HOMES 18
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
LocaL. UniqUe. originaL. Fine Art, Custom Glass, Bronzes & Jewelry
AN ADVERTISING FEATURE
NEAR + FAR 19 20 26 30 34 38
NOT GIVING UP ON TRAVELING LIFE ABOVE THE CLOUDS PRAGUE LIKE A LOCAL
26
A WORLD AWAY OFF-SEASON ADVENTURES ARIZONA ROCKS!
SPEAKING OF PLANTS 40
SPREADING HER WINGS
COOKING WITH 43
HUNGARIAN CULINARY CLASS
RECIPES 46
VANILLA DUTCH BABY
EXPERIENCE LOCAL 25 41 48
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THE CLASSICS SMALL BUSINESS DIRECTORY
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EDITOR'S NOTE
KURT A . KE E L E R
Confessions of a do-it-yourself tourist
Seeing Prague and Budapest with this
LAST OCTOBER,
when we met up with the
friends and colleagues
tour group in Prague. The
knew that my husband
orientation session quickly
Kurt and I left with:
and I were traveling to
modified my thinking.
1. A deeper understanding of the
group was a priceless experience.
This was not the
hard realities of Communist oppression
I was largely quiet,
stereotypical travel
and the horrors of the Holocaust, having
however, about one
junket I feared. Kurt and
heard the stories of families who lived it.
detail: We were joining
I were in the company of
Prague and Budapest.
up with a tour. Kurt and I pride
CHRIS CHRISTEN
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
ourselves on self-
sophisticated, seasoned
Hungarians who speak English. We
travelers. Bonus: This was
never got beyond “Ahoj!” (hello) in
one of Rick Steves’ most
Prague. And “Egészségedre” (cheers!) in
guided travel. Being part of a pack of 50,
active tours, with most days strenuously
following a guide with a red flag and a
paced with up to 8 miles of walking.
strict timeline, is not our idea of fun.
(This is something we knew going in.)
We do, however, enjoy Rick Steves’
2. Gratitude for Czechs and
As introductions were made, I took
Budapest. 3. An appreciation of having local guides who know the best watering holes, exchange kiosks, local markets
travelogues and guidebooks and use
particular note of a NASA retiree on his
them to map out our itineraries abroad.
20th Rick Steves tour; a high-ranking
His travel style is a good match for ours.
Air Force officer and her naval aviator
And like Steves, our linguistic skills
husband; and a single thirtysomething
serve us well in French- and German-
neurosurgery physician’s assistant (who
currency you’re using so you don’t repeat
speaking countries. But Czech and
— joy! — became my assigned “buddy”
the mistake of leaving the equivalent of a
Hungarian are completely foreign to our
for the duration of the tour).
$150 tip for a $60 restaurant meal. This
ear. And tough!
The most extraordinary travel
and laundry facilities. 4. A new group of friends with similar travel interests. 5. A note to self: Triple-check the
happened in an Italian restaurant in
companion, however, was Jana
Budapest (after a bottle of wine). Oops. I
bucket-list Prague and Budapest, we
Hronkova, our Prague-based guide.
hope the waiter went home happy ...
broke our solo-travel streak, took a
Jana (pronounced Yana) grew up under
chance and signed on for an eight-day
Communist rule in Czechoslovakia,
escorted tour with Rick Steves’ Europe.
now the Czech Republic. We bonded
Truth be told, I was in an “I-don’t-
immediately, and my anti-tour bias
To benefit most from our time in
think-we-need-this” frame of mind
6 S E P T E M B E R /O C T O B E R 2 02 0
evaporated.
Here’s to that time when it will be safe to travel the world again!
C HR I S C HR IST EN + KU RT A. KEE L ER
SCENES FROM OUR TRIP
Clockwise from top left St. Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest; our guide Jana at the Velvet Revolution memorial in Prague; a Prague sidewalk; Holocaust memorial marker on a walking tour in Budapest; facades in Prague; a treat from Gelarto Rosa in Budapest. Opposite page Hungarian Parliament from a Danube River excursion boat. omaha.com/inspiredliving
7
8 S E P T E M B E R /O C T O B E R 2 02 0
DESIGN DONE RIGHT
this is us VANESSA AND CHRIS DENNEY say they’ve finished their house renovations just in time. Daughter Chandlar will turn a year old in a few days, and they’ve got their hands full trying to keep her corralled. It feels good to be done, at least with the big stuff. “We love our home,” they say. “Our
After a decade of home updates, mix of traditional and contemporary finally fits family’s style STORY MARJIE DUCEY PHOTOGRAPHY LILY SMITH,
DANIEL MULLER + KARISSA SEARS
goal was to make it feel like us, and it really does.” They’ve been chipping away at their
traditional and contemporary design. “It has taken us a long time to get
to-do list since purchasing the 1983
through all the different parts of our
five-bedroom walk-out ranch near Zorin-
home,” Vanessa says.
sky Lake 10 years ago. The brass fixtures,
On their own, they fixed up the
maple veneers and peach and green
basement, retiled the floor in the entry,
colors are gone, making way for a mix of
installed new carpet, replaced all the
doors and trim and painted every room. Outside, the siding was replaced, a new front door was installed and the landscaping got some attention. The living room was just completed, with new furniture that better fits their design style. They painted the walls but hired a professional to stain the fireplace mantel and beams to get the color just right. Just off that room, lighting, a fan and a new ceiling that hides the mechanics of the roof have made the new version of their covered deck one of their favorite places. That was their 2018 challenge.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 10
KITCHEN BEFORE
LIVING ROOM BEFORE
KITCHEN
LIVING ROOM
Removing the wall between the dining room and kitchen was huge for the family. The old layout wasn’t functional, Vanessa says.
A new layout and modern furniture make this room lighter and brighter. Vanessa says before it seemed dark and constrictive. omaha.com/inspiredliving
9
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9 “It’s really become an extension of our living space. We utilize this every day,” the homeowners say. “When Chandlar first wakes up, we sit on the deck and listen to birds along the trail and look at the trees. We have coffee out here a lot.” It was Chandlar who prompted their
needs with a baby on the way. “We basically took everything down to the studs and started over.”
door that hides a small laundry area had to stay. An island, a place to eat, a coffee bar,
On this project, they needed help,
adequate countertops for Vanessa, who
especially to talk through the design.
loves to cook, and even room for a high
They worked with Gitt Construction and
chair were on the list of must-haves.
Monica Freeborn of Amethyst Home
“We had talked about having the
to figure out how to get all the elements
most functional layout we can, but also a
they wanted while keeping a few things
cost-effective plan. That’s how we landed
biggest project. The chopped up kitchen
they loved. Stained-glass windows made
with this layout,” she says. “The pantry
and dining room didn’t really fit their
by Vanessa’s sister and a favorite barn
cabinets, the open shelving, some of
10 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
KITCHEN Opening the refrigerator door with the old layout caused gridlock. Now, there’s plenty of room.
STAINED GLASS WINDOWS The stained glass between the kitchen and living room was done by Vanessa’s sister, Brenda Anglim.
COVERED DECK This was also redone and the family uses it much more. It’s now one of their favorite spaces.
didn’t have a space like that before.”
those different elements we knew we needed. There were a few things I knew I
A few smaller projects are still on
wanted — the statement rangehood, the
the list — things like new vanities in
light fixture above the sink. The island was really important to me. “Monica helped us pick our moments
and even though they no longer have a formal dining room, there are still plen-
the bathrooms and replacing a window
ty of places to sit for family occasions.
above the garage. But it’s now a place
A banquette seating nook on one end
where we could make a statement while
has turned into a lounging area they
still being mindful of our budget. That
never knew they needed.
concept has helped me with other areas of our home.” The neutral colors are more “them,”
“Our daughter loves looking out that
they can enjoy, along with the area, the nearby parks and their neighbors. “We’ve done reasonable tasteful updates that match our style and budget.
window. It’s a nice cozy space to drink
We have made the space ours. We’re very
coffee or have a glass of wine. We really
happy with it.” omaha.com/inspiredliving
11
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HISTORIC GEM
KEEPERS OF HISTORY B&B owners serve up hospitality and a taste of yesteryear in 110-year-old home
T
STORY MARJIE DUCEY PHOTOGRAPHY ANNA REED he name of their blog — Eggs & Sheets — perfectly sums up their life, Gordon and Linda Mueller say. It’s a blur of cooking and cleaning at
their Queen Anne residence in Bennington,
which they run as both Oft’s Bed & Breakfast and as a carriage house Airbnb. The home, known as the Oft-Gordon House, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. “It’s a totally different experience than going to a hotel or motel,” Gordon says. Don’t pass on the breakfast, he advises. That’s where the eggs come in along with homemade bread, jams and jellies.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 14
WRAPAROUND PORCH Rebuilding the porch and columns is one of many renovations the Muellers have done since they inherited the house in 2007. omaha.com/inspiredliving
13
GUEST ROOMS Both bedrooms on the second floor were remodeled with bathrooms and access to a balcony.
CARRIAGE HOUSE Gordon calls it his last hurrah, as far as major construction goes. He finished it two years ago, and rents it out as an Airbnb. The wheelchair belonged to Gordon’s greatgrandfather, Eggert Oft.
FORMAL PARLOR Breakfast is served in this room now because of the pandemic. It gives guests more room to spread out.
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 13 There’s good company, too. The Muellers like people, which they say is a must for anyone in the hospitality industry. Visiting may take place on the wraparound porch now instead of inside because of the coronavirus pandemic, but guests continue to book. A stay at the 1910 home provides a break from the hustle and bustle of city living and gives people a glimpse of life on the prairie years ago. Visitors will point out items in the history room on the second floor that their grandma used to use, and Linda says they love the antiques that fill the house. “We’re kind of a small-town oasis,” Gordon says. “We have some walking trails out here. You can go 300 yards and be in a cornfield. We are getting swallowed up by Omaha suburbia but we still have a small-town feel.” Although only three miles outside city limits, people from Omaha as well as Lincoln make the short drive just to get away. Other guests have come from as far away as Australia, and often from Chicago. Their many repeat guests are viewed as part of the family. “We hate charging them, but they insist,” Gordon says. “We give them a great discount. We get cards from them all the time.” The Muellers, who had been living in Denver, inherited the home when
CONTINUED ON PAGE 16 14 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
omaha.com/inspiredliving
15
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 14 Gordon’s mother died in 2007. It was in poor shape, and they spent the next few years updating it. “Just about everything,” Gordon says. That included hanging 200 rolls of wallpaper, not to mention installing new wiring, plumbing and heating and air
ago was their last push. They did the work themselves. Gordon is in charge of repairs and Linda of cleaning. They split cooking duties, although it’s Linda who produces the made-from-scratch cookies that guests find hard to resist. If they eat one too many or just need to
of Bennington, spearheaded that effort as president of the local history club. In addition to their “Eggs & Sheets”
conditioning. There were no bathrooms
stretch their legs, they can head out on a
blog, Gordon has a newly launched
on the second floor where guests stay,
self-guided walking tour through town.
history blog with almost 100,000 visi-
so one was added for each of the two
Blue-and-white signs with photographs
tors. And he just signed a contract with
bedrooms. The porch and columns were
and descriptions designate historic
Arcadia Publishing to write a book titled
rebuilt and wood floors refinished, too.
buildings along the way. Gordon, whose
“Around Bennington” for its “Images of
The carriage house remodel two years
great-grandfather was a founding father
America” series.
16 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
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The oldest picture in the book dates from 1890, with many from around 1900. “Community life, a lot of farming ones, how the town got started, the railroads,” Gordon says. “I’ve been collecting images and I’m trying to get them out for public access.” The Muellers, who are both 70, had planned to stay in business for only a few years. Although they’ve trimmed back on bookings this summer to provide a more thorough cleaning between stays, they have no plans to slow down. “It keeps us busy,” Gordon says.
ENTRY Ornate features of the house are on parade right away, with a carved oak staircase and pillars going into the parlor.
ANTIQUES The house and carriage house are decorated with family heirlooms and bits and pieces of local history.
Price Per Person Double Occupancy 4 Days / 4 Buses Bus 1: November 9-12, 2020. Departs: Sioux City, IA / Onawa, IA / Missouri Valley, IA / Council Bluffs, IA Bus 2: November 11-14, 2020. Departs: Lincoln, NE / Omaha, NE / Council Bluffs, IA / St. Joseph, MO / Kansas City, MO Bus 3: November 16-19, 2020. Departs: Denison, IA / Harlan, IA / Avoca, IA / Council Bluffs, IA Christmas in Branson will take your breath away! Clay Cooper’s Country Express; Haygoods Family Show; Noah The Musical; Dolly Parton’s Stampede; Yakov Smirnoff, Texas Tenors and 3 Nights Lodging / 6 Meals. Includes admissions!
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Price Per Person Double Occupancy 7 Days/December 1-7, 2020 Visit Blount Mansion, known as the birthplace of Tennessee. Experience the Splendor of the Season at the Fabulous Biltmore Estate in Asheville, N.C. While at The Biltmore Estate, America’s largest home, enjoy lunch at Deer Park; hear the history of the wine cellars; visit Antler Hill Village with Holiday Décor and Lights; see floral displays at the Conservatory; and shop the unique shops, enjoy the cafés and restaurants amid the twinkling lights in Biltmore Village. 6 Nights Lodging / 10 Meals. Includes admissions! Departs: Lincoln, NE / Omaha, NE / Council Bluffs, IA / Des Moines, IA
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Omaha’s Rug Experts Nick and Asha Agarwal We invite you to browse our showroom to find rugs, furniture, art or accessories to add warmth and beauty to your home this Holiday season.
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N E A R + FA R
PEOPLE AREN’T GIVING UP ON T R AV E L I N G
STORY MARJIE DUCEY
P
UN S PL A S H .CO M
eople are eager to hit the road again. Or at least to start planning a
trip, for when they hope the weight
Travel with us on these pages if you can’t travel for real CHOOSE YOUR DESTINATION Dev Bhoomi, India Page 20
of the coronavirus pandemic isn’t so heavy.
“We’re getting a lot of requests from people
who want to travel next year and a fair amount for the end of this year,” says Jeff Cain of Travel and Transport. Some, feeling stir crazy after months of working at home, are already packing their cars and driving
Everyone will have to get used to new boarding procedures, mask requirements and other safety requirements. Airlines and hotels are making strides in their efforts to keep people safe from COVID-19, and Cain thinks that by January cruise lines will have their safety protocols in place, too. Cain’s advice: Weigh your own health and risk factors, check on restrictions before you book and buy travel insurance. Guidelines can change overnight. Many foreign
four to five hours for mini vacations close to home
borders continue to be temporarily closed to
— where they still feel safe. State and national
Americans while others have self-quarantine rules
Prague Page 26
parks are popular destinations.
upon arrival. Some U.S. cities and states also have
Tobago Page 30
an, says Cain, a senior vice president of specialty
quarantines — that can interfere with traveling or
divisions.
sightseeing.
Grand Canyon Page 34 American Southwest Page 38
Others are venturing to Mexico or the Caribbe-
Travel most likely will be forever changed as the world reopens for business, Cain predicts. Masks, hand-washing and social distancing will be just as important on a trip as they are at home.
restrictions and policies — including two-week
And, of course, don’t forget your own cleaning supplies to guard against nasty germs. “It never hurts to have sanitizer to wipe down your area,” Cain says. omaha.com/inspiredliving
19
N E A R + FA R
life ab ove t he clo uds Yearlong visits to India are a chance to experience the nature of mountain life STORY + PHOTOGRAPHY SANDRA DUCEY
S
andra Ducey, a native Nebraskan, has made five yearlong trips to India, thanks to the work of her husband, David Haberman, a religious studies professor at Indiana University who specializes in Hinduism. She journals regularly during her visits. Following are excerpts from the summer of 2019, when she and David lived in a pilgrimage town.
ARRIVAL After a 24-hour flight, warnings about hazardous air in New Delhi, a wild drive from the plains up into the hills, we’ve arrived at our mountain home near Uttarkashi, a midsized pilgrimage town on the Bhāgīrathī River, the main tributary of the Ganges. We’re about six miles up the mountain, but taxis into town are cheap. The bazaar is bright, busy and well-stocked
20 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
with dhal (rice and mustard oil) plus pas-
American professor friend. It’s the most
ta, cleaning supplies, toilet paper — even
modern place we’ve ever lived anywhere
olive oil, once hard to find outside the big
at just 10 years old. And for the first time
cities. We buy vegetables at outdoor stalls
in 30 years in India, we have a washing
or carts. Lychees are in season, as well
machine! A natural spring tumbles down
as asparagus-like fiddlehead ferns. We
from the hill above us, so there’s plenty
try to restrain ourselves since we have to
of water, solar-heated. The bugs stay
carry everything — groceries, a gas tank,
away until dusk, so we keep the doors
our luggage — up 111 stone steps from the
open. When it rains, puffs of cool clouds
road to our temporary home.
sneak around the furniture.
We’re staying in a house owned by an
And then there’s the view from the
CAFE IN UKHIMATH
TERRACES ABOVE UTTARKASHI
porch. Glorious vistas of terraced hillsides, golden with wheat ready to be harvested by hand. Valleys carved from rivers feeding the great Ganges roll in pine-dark folds to distant snow-covered peaks glinting in the sunlight. This area is known as Dev Bhoomi, land of the gods. But the beauty of the landscape could also be called divine. Our neighbors’ two dogs often visit,
MARKET IN UTTARKASHI
KEDARNATH We spent 10 days traveling on mountain roads notorious for landslides, blind curves, traffic jams and steep drop-offs to visit the last two sites on our pilgrimage to the Char Dham, the “four abodes,” ancient temples nestled beneath the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas. Was I scared? You bet. The sober-
and accompany us on walks. They are
ing sight of vehicles crumpled on the
free to roam at will, but Hari and Puppy
rocks below us, too many near-misses
stay close, alert for the panthers that
on a narrow road, and the long wait at a
roam these hills, and hopeful that the
rickety bridge while bus passengers dis-
langur monkeys that romp in the tree-
embarked and walked across so the bus
tops will come down to the ground.
wouldn’t be too heavy. Such is pilgrimage
through Dev Bhoomi. We drove to Badrinath on a breathtaking, above-the-clouds road with spectacular cliffs. Our only “Eeek!” moment was when a clambering goat sent boulders crashing around us. But getting to Kedarnath, a Shiva temple on a plateau about 10 miles up the Mandakini River valley, involved hours of driving, walking and riding ponies. This site was the main focus of David’s research on the effects of climate change on pilgrimage. There was a catastrophic landslide there in 2013 that wiped out
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21
KEDARNATH TEMPLE
22 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
DHOOLIE
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 21 the local bazaar and surrounding buildings and structures, but miraculously, not the temple. The trek was a humbling experience. We struggled, even though we were the privileged with sleeping bags, good shoes, down jackets and backpacks
measured steps — while others went up
sun to rain to snow and back again, often
in basket seats strapped to the backs of
in just a few hours. We mingled among
men bent double by the weight, astound-
the pilgrims, most of whom stood in line
ing and disturbing.
for eight hours or more (after walking
For us, mounted, it was steady ponynose-to-pony-tail traffic, harness bells jingling to alert the walkers ahead of us, most in flip-flops or even barefoot.
rather than satchels perched on our
Thousands of pilgrims from all walks of
heads. We hired ponies, along with
life streamed up and down the cobbled
their handlers, hard-working “paharis”
trail. Our trek to Kedarnath lasted al-
(mountain dwellers) who often traverse
most seven hours and took us from 6,000
the mountain twice a day, trying to make
feet to 12,000 feet of elevation, through
as much money as possible during the
dozens of steep switchbacks, heat, wind
pilgrimage season. Some of the pilgrims
and glacier fields.
used dhoolies — wooden seats on long poles carried by four men walking in
BOULDER AT KEDARNATH TEMPLE
We stayed two nights at Kedarnath, watching as the weather shifted from
uphill all day) to file into the temple for a 10-second viewing of the deity. We also witnessed a modern-day pilgrimage: helicopters. A seven-minute flight up to Kedarnath, a VIP line into the temple, then seven minutes back down. Given our chafed skin and aching muscles from the trek up, we considered flying down the mountain. But in the end, we went down as we’d gone up. And we had been blessed by our participation in a sacred journey.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 24
UKHIMATH
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23
HARI AND PUPPY AT HOME
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 23
place, warm torrential rain pounded the
down and the clouds creep in. Monsoon
UKHIMATH
mountains for three days. Finally a mud,
season is here, and it’s time for us to
silt and rock dam on the slope behind
leave.
We’re taking a break from our travels in Ukhimath, a town hanging on a mountainside in the hills that lead to Kedarnath. It’s small and colorful, with ancient temples, interesting shops and lots of narrow, curvy lanes leading up and down that are fun to explore, even though the up part takes my breath away. This Midwestern girl is not used to these elevations! We’ve been eating every meal at the same cafe; there aren’t too many options, and the food is good. The cook had a café in Kedarnath before it was washed away in the 2013 flood. When we’d asked what he’d done when the floodwaters came, he laconically said “run,” and pointed up. He turned to go to his stove, then looked back at us. “Depression,” he said quietly. He waved his hand in a circle that encompassed the town. “All people, depression.” More on the “apda,” what the locals call the Kedarnath disaster: It happened in the middle of pilgrimage season, after snow melts in May and before monsoon rains begin in July, when tens of thousands of pilgrims and seasonal workers are on the mountain. Instead of the usual snow, which stays in
24 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
the temple burst, letting loose a cascade of icy water.
I’ve loved being here. The fabulous views are always changing; glance away
The raging torrent wiped out the
and everything is altered. I like living in
structures around the temple, where
and above the clouds. As we walk up and
thousands were huddled for shelter.
down the terraced fields with the dogs,
Bridges, paths, forests were destroyed;
I wonder about those who sculpted the
thousands of goats and ponies killed;
mountainside: Why a village here?
tents and food stalls washed away; an
What’s it like to milk cows and tend
entire village scoured from the moun-
fields and raise kids where you are
tainside. The Kedarnath temple was
scrambling about on narrow paths?
spared when an unusually large boulder
Who struggled to haul all those stones
tumbled to a stop about 20 feet behind
up to that lonely ridge to build a home?
the stone temple, splitting the current
It couldn’t have been easy, especially
and saving the temple from the blunt
when everything was hauled up here
force of the flood.
on the backs of men and mules. Even
Official reports say 7,000 people
today, challenges lurk here: floods and
died; but locals, many who lost multiple
landslides and, a few days ago, an earth-
family members, say the tally is closer to
quake. It measured only 3.1 in magni-
30,000. Although climate change is almost universally agreed to be the cause of the freak storm, many pilgrims attribute the disaster to the anger of the gods, disturbed by the desecration of the sacred sites by development and disrespectful behavior.
TIME TO GO I’m sitting in the doorway of our house in the mountains while the rain pours
tude, but we were at the epicenter and the windows as well as our equanimity were rattled. Here I’ve learned to cook exotic vegetables, met fascinating people, participated in rituals hundreds — maybe thousands — of years old, filled up half a journal and taken hundreds of photos. I’ve bathed in the stream that bubbles to the surface a few terraces up from the house. Can you see why I am so sad to leave? I can only do so believing I will return.
EXPERIENCE L O CAL | A SP ONSORED FEATURE
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I
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f you love farmhouse décor, a church-style window with elegant arches and a distressed-wood frame is the quintessential decorating element. Display the window as a standalone piece, or add to its rustic charm and usefulness with these DIY ideas.
Wall art
Wreath display
Planter or shelf
Faux headboard
Fill a large, bare wall with a gallery-like installation of three or more arched church windows. Or bring life to a small space like an entryway or foyer with a single cathedral window. Depending on the window frame’s design, you could add a special family photo or a collection of photos under glass for a unique picture frame. A savvy DIYer could even turn the window into a decorative mirror.
Enliven a cathedral window with a wreath or candle ring. Simply attach the greenery with a wreath hanger or ribbon. If you don’t want hooks or hangers to be visible, use metal hook eye screws and fishing line or floral wire.This is the perfect accent for a wall, a corner, even your fireplace mantel. In terms of the greenery, you have a variety of options, including magnolia, eucalyptus, boxwood, tea leaf and wisteria.
Use your window as a dramatic backdrop for a shelf. Or build a window box or planter box on the bottom of the window for greenery, florals or other displays that you can swap out with the seasons. If you’re not the DIY type, check out our cathedral windows with built-in metal planters. Just add greenery, and you have an instant accent for home or office.
Place multiple wooden church windows side-by-side to create the look of a headboard for a special bedroom.
Outdoor décor Lean a church window against the house and add hooks for flower pots. Or place one in the garden as a trellis for climbing plants.
Prairie in Bloom is a home décor boutique in Omaha’s historic J.F. Bloom & Co. building in north downtown. The 4,000-square-foot store is home to a collection of curated new and vintage farmhouse and industrial décor, as well as handmade, locally produced products. Learn more or get inspired at prairieinbloom.com. omaha.com/inspiredliving
25
Prague N E A R + FA R
LIKE A LOCAL
The best sights, sounds and stories in one of Europe’s most fascinating cities STORY CHRIS CHRISTEN PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHRISTEN
dark and brooding in the mist. Inside,
M
Alfons Mucha delivers an uplifting burst
Czech Republic, is a mind-boggling trea-
of color and light.
sure chest of history, architecture, art,
+ KURT A. KEELER
assive St. Vitus Cathedral was barely visible in the damp, early morning fog as
a stained-glass window by Czech artist
The Art Nouveau masterwork, com-
day. Welcome to 21st century Prague. This 1,000-year-old city, capital of the
culture and tradition. And now, a renais-
pleted in 1931, honors Vaclav I, the pa-
sance is underway. After a half-century
we passed through the formidable stone
tron saint of the Czech Republic. A duke,
of Nazi and Communist oppression that
gates of Prague Castle. For more than a
he brought Christianity, unity and hope
ended in 1989 on the heels of the Velvet
thousand years, Czech leaders — from
to the region in the Middle Ages. Better
Revolution, Prague is once again coming
kings and emperors to Nazis, Commu-
known as “Good King Wenceslas,” he’s
into its own.
nists and presidents — have ruled from
an icon of Czech nationalism and piety,
this sprawling compound.
and a central figure of local lore.
“Thirty years ago you would have found a drab and deteriorating city,”
The centuries-old Gothic cathedral
Back outside the cathedral, the veil of
our Czech guide notes as she speaks of
— 600 years in the making — appears
fog lifts, revealing a bright and beautiful
emperors, regimes, conquests, defeats
26 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
CZECH SPECIALTIES I was nervous about the cuisine, primarily because of the heavy use of paprika. I mistakenly presumed that Czech food would have a lot of heat. But sweet paprika is the spice of choice. Czech specialties to remember: » Svickova, a beloved dish of roast pork with a creamy, golden vegetable puree, served with knedliky (boiled dumplings for soaking up the sauce) and a dollop of cranberry sauce. » Livance, small pillow-like pancakes, served warm with melted butter and a dusting of either cinnamon sugar or powdered sugar, or a drizzling of hot fudge or strawberry sauce. » Gulas, or goulash. Every restaurant and pub seems to have its own version of this hearty meat stew. Typically served with sliced dark bread or dumplings. And a Pilsner. » Chlebicek, an open-faced sandwich that’s the Czech version of fast food. Ours was a half-slice of baguette-like bread with an egg-salad spread, thinly sliced prazska sunka (Prague ham) and fresh-sliced tomato. » Becherovka, a liqueur made from a secret recipe of herbs and spices. We had a round of shots at the Cash Only Bar (it’s the name and the payment policy). Luckily, we only had a twoblock walk to our hotel. The Czech Republic’s national drink packs a punch.
WHERE WE STAYED
VIEW FROM STRAHOV MONASTERY
and days of glory in Prague’s storied and complex past. It’s more than a recitation. Our Rick Steves’ Europe tour guide, Jana Hronkova, grew up under Communist rule. She was 12 when the student demonstrations in Wenceslas Square on Nov. 17, 1989, set a revolution in motion. Hronkova’s insight and personal anecdotes would enrich our four-day Prague walking tour just two weeks before the 30th anniversary of the uprising. Here are highlights of exploring on foot (sometimes 8 miles a day) and feeling like a temporary local in one of Europe’s best-preserved, mostvisited cities last October.
Best views Old Town Hall Tower, Stare Mesto (Old Town). Prague is called the “Golden City of a Hundred Spires.” I’ll bet it’s a thousand. Our best bird’s-eye view was from atop the Old Town Hall (with the world-famous astronomical clock) on the Old Town Square. The red-tiled roofs and black-and-white mosaic sidewalks below are classic Prague. The astronomical clock draws astronomical crowds on the hour, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, for the little glockenspiel show that’s been a tradition since the early 1400s. Yes, it’s a
CONTINUED ON PAGE 28
Hotel Leonardo, a boutique hotel within easy walking distance of Charles Bridge, Old Town and the Little Quarter. The breakfast room was in the lower level and cave-like in a cool way. The fare was international, with sweet and savory offerings. Our room was large by European standards. Suitestyle, with a queen bed, sitting area and full bath. No view, but we didn’t care.
GETTING AROUND The Metro, tram and bus lines are easy to use; day passes are the most convenient way to go.
ABOUT THE TOUR We felt like temporary locals, with ample free time each day to explore on our own. We arrived one day early upon the advice of the tour coordinator for Rick Steves. This gave us 24 hours to acclimate and recover from jet lag before meeting up with the tour group. From Prague, we traveled by motorcoach to Budapest, a city with a cosmopolitan vibe, especially in the town square. The Ruin Bar scene (club-like, in abandoned buildings), a Hungarian cooking class and a night cruise on the Danube River were highlights of our time in Buda and Pest. omaha.com/inspiredliving
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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 27 shoulder-to-shoulder selfie fest. The iconic view of Charles Bridge with Prague Castle high on a hill in the distance is found along busy Smetanovo Nabrezi on the right bank of the Vltava River. Our first look was a dream come to life. Prague already was more than we imagined.
Romantic strolls Prague after dark is mesmerizing, especially in the historic core. Strolls along a four-block stretch of Smetanovo Nabrezi to Charles Bridge and then to either Little Quarter or Old Town are
VIEW FROM CHARLES BRIDGE
must-dos. Have dinner in one neighborhood and dessert in the other. The later the hour, the more you’ll feel like a local in a postcard come to life.
Arts & culture The interior of Municipal House near the black-stained Powder Tower, an original gate in the Old Town wall, is an Art Nouveau masterpiece decorated with patriotic Czech themes. Prague’s largest concert hall is housed here, and after a daytime tour, we bought tickets for a chamber orchestra concert that evening. The program and acoustics, enjoyed from velvet seats, lived up to the hype. There are countless opportunities around the city to enjoy Czech classical music for free. A favorite experience on the tour was an evening parlor concert featuring best-loved arias from operas
ST. VITUS CATHEDRAL
OLD TOWN SQUARE
by Mozart, Dvorak and Smetana at the Bedrich Smetana Museum. No pictures, please. Or risk being embarrassed by an
best, we got the same answer: They’re all
Quarter to Charles Bridge. Before the in-
accompanist’s piercing glare.
good. We caught a show at Black Theater
troduction of house numbers, buildings
I adored small but significant Alfons
of Jiri Srnec, a tiny art house. Envision
in Prague were identified by a unique
Mucha Museum, one of Prague’s hidden
a small stage with a black velvet curtain.
symbol such as a star, a fleur de lis, a coat
gems. You may not recognize the name,
Puppeteers are behind the curtain, ma-
of arms. We had fun collecting photos of
but you’ve likely seen Mucha’s work.
nipulating objects on the front. Mean-
gilded examples on the stately embas-
The Czech artist (1860-1939) wowed
while, actors in front of the curtain are
sies that line the streets of this former
the world with his theater posters in the
interacting with the objects. The illusion
diplomatic enclave near Prague Castle.
emerging Art Nouveau style, and a series
is great fun. And perfect for an interna-
Our two-hour route took us through
tional audience. It’s all done in mime.
Little Quarter Square and the domineer-
Daytime walks
marionettes and gingerbread confec-
of huge nationalistic paintings depicting epic events in the life of the Slavs. Black light illusion can be found around the world, but it’s said to have
Our favorite free-time walk was
originated in Prague. When we asked
from Strahov Monastery down through
locals which theater company does it
the heart of Mala Strana or the Little
28 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
ing Church of St. Nicholas. Shops selling tions drew us in; the free Wallenstein Palace Garden did too. The John Lennon Wall, a meaningful
illuminated in the distance and the statues of saints lending a watchful eye.
History & lore Prague Castle is reputed to be one of Europe’s largest. A visit to it in Hradcany, the Castle Quarter, offers a meaningful overview of the country’s complex history. The compound sits prominently above the city. The grounds and gardens are beautifully maintained, the plazas are built for scores of visitors and the vistas of Charles Bridge and Old Town are memorable. We had a half-day castle visit, then hopped a tram to Mala HAVELSKA MARKET
POWDER TOWER
Strana for a casual lunch at 17th-century Strahov Monastery Brewery, known for its craft brews. We copied the locals and ordered Czech spreads with bread to enjoy with that first round. After lunch we walked to the monastery’s terrace for one of Prague’s most picturesque redroofed, spire-filled city views. Czechs love French architecture and the best examples of Art Nouveau with overtures of Paris’ Champs Elysees are in Josefov, the Jewish Quarter, just off the Old Town Square. Deeper into the neighborhood, the mood turns somber at Pinkas Synagogue. The alcove walls are hand-inscribed with the names and birth and death dates of some 77,300 Czech Jews, all victims of the Holocaust. In another space, Jewish children’s renderings tell the story of life in a Nazi
ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK IN OLD TOWN SQUARE
concentration camp. The Old Cemetery — with some 12,000 tombstones — dates from 1439 to 1787, when this was the only
Prague attraction near Charles Bridge, was under renovation. A disappoint-
Food & spirits Dinner the first night of the tour was
ment, but a nearby graffiti-covered
at an Austrian restaurant called Kocar z
building wall captured the spirit of the
Vidne in a cobblestoned courtyard near
real thing and made for a fun selfie.
Charles Bridge. The food was wonderful,
burial ground for the city’s Jews. Graves stacked seven or eight deep bring the total to 85,000 buried here — a possibility difficult to fathom in such a small space.
Modern Prague
but the live music was the highlight.
Cross the moat — actually a street
walking a steep path to the summit of
Czech folk tunes and a little Mozart,
called Na Prikope that follows the line
Petrin Hill for a panoramic view of the
performed by a mustachioed flutist
of the Old Town wall — and you’re in
city from Petrin Lookout Tower, a 200-
and an accordionist from the Prague
Nove Mesto, the New Town of malls and
foot replica of the Eiffel Tower. The view
Castle Orchestra, filled our corner of
high-end shops and the home of Art
from the 1891 attraction was stunning,
the restaurant for about a half-hour. The
Nouveau art and architecture. Good
even on a hazy day. If only the funicular
late-evening walk back to our hotel took
King Wenceslas stands grandly in the
had been in service.... Goulash and rye
us across the iconic 14th-century bridge
square, framed by the National Museum.
bread from the snack bar provided ener-
— sans crowds. It was rather romantic
No doubt relishing all that Prague has
gy for the long trek down the hill.
under that starry sky with Prague Castle
come to be.
An afternoon on our own found us
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29
N E A R + FA R
A W O R L D AWAY Tiny Tobago is as close to paradise as you can get STORY CHRIS CHRISTEN PHOTOGRAPHY RENAY ROBISONSCHEER, KENDALL SCHEER + DIANNE MCMILLAN
WHERE IN THE WORLD is Tobago? Mark McMillan had no idea when he
You can’t be in a rush to get to Tobago. Travel time can take up to 24 hours from Omaha. Trinidad, the point of entry, is a six-hour flight from Houston. Catching the last commuter flight of the day to Tobago can be dicey because of customs. If you miss it, there’s no choice but to overnight in Trinidad. Weather also can impact arrivals and departures. And then there’s COVID-19, which has placed temporary restrictions on visitors from the United States.
30 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago one
placed the highest bid for a six-night
of their all-time favorite destinations.
stay there.
There’s nothing better, they say, than
McMillan wasn’t intent on landing the vacation package. As he tells the story, it was a live auction at the 2014 Bluejay Jamboree and his tablemates were egging him on to bid to win.
GETTING THERE
consider the tiny, unspoiled island in
The increments weren’t killer, and the idea of vacationing at a private villa with housekeeping service and an ocean view did sound fun. So he kept raising his paddle. “I had no clue where Tobago was. After I won, I had to look it up on the map,” the Omahan says. The memory still makes him laugh. Today, Tobago (toe-BAY-go) is high on his radar. He and his wife, Dianne,
visiting in January or February — in the dead of a frigid Nebraska winter. The McMillans have made four trips in six years to the southernmost link in the Caribbean island chain. And each time, two other couples have shared in the adventure. Good friends and fellow Omahans Renay and Kendall Scheer are automatics. The foursome, plus another couple to take full advantage of a villa that sleeps six, traveled to Tobago for the first time in January 2015 — just ahead of Mardi Gras. Carnival week is reserved for the
CONTINUED ON PAGE 32
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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 30 property’s owner, a Creighton alumnus, and a sister living in Trinidad. The Omahans appreciate the getaway for a chance to relax and recharge in a tropical paradise so protected you sometimes feel like you have it all to yourself. Tobago is totally void of commercialism and crowds, a quality that the islanders work fiercely to maintain. The modest villa where they stay is in a gated community with 14 houses built on a lush hillside for views of the ocean just a half-mile away. “We live on the veranda,” Renay says. A housekeeper comes every morning
villa until dinner.” Other days, they’re
island’s Atlantic and Caribbean coasts
gone all day.
and jungle wetlands and rainforest in
From the villa, it’s a short walk to visit a bird sanctuary or shop for fresh produce or fish. The island food is phenomenal,
by Kendall and Mark — and goats and cows tied to posts, grazing for the day.
of eastern India, Africa, Italy, England, Ireland and more. Trinidad has a broad international mix because of the oil production there. The Fish Pot is a favorite dining spot. In the evening, you can watch the catch of the day being delivered by local fisher-
“It’s so peaceful,” Dianne says. “We
serted isle. Alibaba Tours is a perennial favorite. » Lime with the locals. Sunday School
“Curried goat. Curried iguana — that
for a slice of island social life. Hang out,
adventurous when you dine,” Mark says.
doing something and doing nothing.
» Rent a boat and a skipper for the day and snorkel a coral reef or explore a de-
— a street party in Buccoo Bay — is tops
rooms and share a little island history
It is the perfect mix, Kendall says, of
The Omahans — honorary Tobagonians by this time — also might:
men, and an hour later, you’re eating it. was phenomenal. You have to be a little
dining that day.
Among the roadside curiosities: Freerange chickens — dubbed street walkers
Mark says, noting culinary influences
to make a scratch breakfast, clean the and recommendations for sightseeing or
between.
Well, not everyone. Renay says she’s not that brave. “Eating iguana wasn’t as scary as driving,” as Kendall discovered. Locals, like the British, drive on the
dance, sip a little rum. » Plunge 15 feet into a waterfall pool. » Catch a steel orchestra panning a deafening calypso beat. “We used to joke about not wanting to become people who go to the same place every year,” Dianne says. “Now we have
get up, put on our swimsuits, grab a book
left-hand side of the road. And navigat-
been to Tobago four times.” And mea-
and head for the private infinity pool
ing Tobago’s primitive, ribbon-like roads
suring their enjoyment of other tropical
with an ocean view. At breakfast, we’ll
can be a hair-raising experience.
destinations against their time on the
talk about what everybody feels like doing. Sometimes we don’t even leave the
32 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
Hiring a driver is a safer and more enjoyable way to explore the long, narrow
islands. “If it’s not as great, we’ll say, ‘It’s no Tobago.’”
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33
N E A R + FA R
OFF-SEASON ADVENTURES Grand Canyon’s vistas seem even more stunning without the crowds
34 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
V
STORY + PHOTOGRAPHY KILEY CRUSE isiting the Grand Canyon has always been on my bucket list. I finally checked it off in February.
While only part of Grand Canyon
National Park is open for off-peak travel, winter may be the best time to visit. I’ll gladly take the lack of crowds, cooler temperatures and snow-covered trails. I only wish I had packed a pair of Yaktrax for traction on the rocks. The Grand Canyon South Rim, which TA MMY YTTRI
is open year-round, is easily accessible from Phoenix (229 miles) or Las Vegas (279 miles), the closest major airports.
CHAPEL OF THE HOLY CROSS
DAY 1 Phoenix to Sedona, 117 miles; Sedona to Williams, 59 miles Taking an early morning direct flight out of Omaha put my husband and I in Phoenix before 9 a.m., leaving us a full day to explore. We rented a car and headed north to Sedona. Our first stop was Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village where we spent the morning browsing art galleries, jewelry stores and specialty shops. My favorite was the Renee Taylor Gallery sculpture garden. We had lunch at El Rincon Mexican restaurant in the shopping village. The menu featured a blend of traditional
EL RINCON
RAILWAY
Mexican and native Navajo dishes. The restaurant wasn’t very big, but it offered both indoor and outdoor seating. We split one of the house specialties, Navajo Pizza with hand-rolled sopapilla crust. It was topped with refried beans, chiles, vegetables and cheese. It was different from anything I’ve ever eaten — in a yummy way. Next stop was the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a Roman Catholic chapel built into the picturesque red buttes on Coconino National Forest land southeast
open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily except Christmas and Easter. The trek from the small parking area to the chapel is a steep climb; volunteers in golf carts circulate for anyone needing a lift. From Sedona, we drove to Williams
DAY 2 Train to Grand Canyon; Williams to Page, 163 miles The Grand Canyon Railway began carrying passengers to the South Rim in 1901, but the popularity of automobiles
and checked into the Grand Canyon
shuttered the service in 1968. Opera-
Railway & Hotel. Our room package
tions were restored in 1989, decreasing
included breakfast and dinner in the
South Rim traffic by 5% each year (about
buffet-style restaurant and a train ride
50,000 vehicles). You can ride the Grand Canyon Rail-
of Sedona. Opened in 1956, the chapel
into the national park. The food was
cost $300,000 and required a special-use
good, but if it hadn’t been included, we
permit to be built. The architecture has a
probably would have dined elsewhere for
Prior to departure, there’s an Old West
uniquely modern feel, despite its age. It’s
the price.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 36
way even if you’re not a guest at the hotel.
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35
FOUR THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT WINTER IN THE GRAND CANYON
Thinner crowds Everything is quieter. Yes, tour buses are still around, but February, on average, sees about 25% of the traffic of peak season.
High visibility Thanks to clear skies, visibility is highest in this season. You can see mountain peaks as far as 200 miles away on a clear winter day.
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 35
of the Grand Canyon. It was enough
different days.
show — cheesy but entertaining.
time to check out Lookout Studio, Kolb
Back in Williams, we drove north to
Studio, El Tovar Hotel, Hopi House and
Page for the night, stopping in Flagstaff
the Verkamps Visitor Center. We walked
for a quick dinner. Another perk of
the Rim Trail from the Bright Angel
traveling in the off-season: winter room
Trailhead to Yavapai Point and Geology
rates at an exceptional value. Our one-
chose the middling First Class option.
Museum and back. Dining options here
night stay at the Page Best Western was
Our assigned seats were comfortable
are limited in the off-season; we packed
$49, breakfast included. In peak season,
and we had tons of leg room. Snacks and
a lunch so we didn’t waste precious time
the same room goes for $189 a night.
non-alcoholic beverages, too. At just over
sitting inside a restaurant. If walking
two hours each way, the train ride was
is an issue, there are bus tours to some
the perfect chance to sit back, relax and
points of interest for an additional fee
enjoy the scenery. The refurbished train
(the service is closed through the end of
cars — many dating to the 1920s to 1950s
2020 due to COVID-19 concerns). If you
the day. The local tourism office was
— all include restrooms.
want to spend more time in the park and
closed, so we pulled out our phones. Siri
Once we arrived at the park, we had
can secure a hotel room there, you can
suggested Lee’s Ferry.
about four hours to take in the majesty
ride the train to and from Williams on
HORSESHOE BEND
There are six classes of service, from bench seating in the Pullman car to plush seats in the luxury parlor caboose (reserved for ages 16 and older). We
36 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
DAY 3 Page to Lee’s Ferry and back, 90 miles We had no plans for the first half of
The trip — 10 minutes as the crow flies
More access Some roads reserved for buses during peak seasons permit private vehicles in winter months and are generally less congested.
Temperate temperatures December through February, daytime temps on the canyon floor can reach 60 degrees; higher up, it’s typically in the 30s to 40s.
GLEN CANYON
but 45 minutes by car — delivered us to
of his childhood and played a native
the southern-most area of Glen Canyon
double flute in the middle of a canyon
National Recreation Area. Lee’s Ferry
where the acoustics were amazing. After
is the only place for hundreds of miles
an hour in the slots, we had an incredible
where the Colorado River can be accessed
view of Horseshoe Bend from private
on both sides. It was an important cross-
land adjacent to the public viewing area
ing for early settlers moving west.
— another benefit of the tour.
While I loved seeing the Grand Canyon, I loved this spot by the river
DAY 4
even more for the hiking, scenery and
Page to Phoenix, 273 miles
solitude. Back in Page, we had a late lunch at the BirdHouse. The restaurant is a bit of a hole-in-the-wall. You order at the register and sit at one of the picnic tables. Your food is served in plastic baskets, but don’t let that fool you. This place has the best chicken strips — ever! They come in three varieties: original, spicy and honey butter with a side of your choice, including french fries, macaroni and cheese and coleslaw. We tried the spicy and honey butter versions with two sides of broccoli salad. Eating here is a must if you’re in the area. Our planned adventure for the afternoon was a three-hour tour of Antelope
We had no scheduled plans, only to get to Phoenix by the end of the day. We enjoyed Lee’s Ferry so much that we headed back in that direction, and made an additional stop at Navajo Bridge. Navajo Bridge is actually a pair of steel bridges spanning the Colorado River; the older bridge is for pedestrians, the newer one, for vehicles. When it was built in 1929, the Navajo Bridge was the tallest steel arch bridge in the United States. It has breathtaking views of the river, and we saw nearly a dozen California condors. Critically endangered, there are only 300 in the wild. The entrance fee for Glen Canyon Na-
Canyon and Horseshoe Bend through
tional Recreation Area is good for seven
Horseshoe Bend Tours. The outfitter
days, so our return visit still applied.
limits tours to 25 people, but — another
We walked among the balanced rocks
perk of off-season — our tour had only
between the park entrance and the river
nine. Our guide, Trey, is native Navajo,
before continuing on to Phoenix to stay
and the slot canyons we toured were on
the night before an early flight home the
his grandparents’ land. He shared tales
next day.
ANTELOPE CANYON omaha.com/inspiredliving
37
N E A R + FA R
Arizona rocks! Lesser-known wonders are highlight of a road trip that’s largely spontaneous STORY TAMMY YTTRI PHOTOGRAPHY TAMMY YTTRI + HEIDI YTTRI
G
rowing up in Nebraska and having your birthday fall at the end of January almost al-
ways guarantees a frigid day where your celebration could be canceled by a snowstorm. This year, I decided to skip out on Omaha’s unpredictable weather and take a birthday trip to the Southwest. My sister, who lives in California, quickly was onboard for a week of road-tripping through Arizona. The plan: Hit the big tourist sites like Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon and Sedona and see what other gems lie in between. We booked two nights in Page, Arizona, and simply went where the road took us after that.
DAY 1 Departing from Orange County, California, we were armed with an iPhone full of true crime podcasts to get us through the eight hours in the desert,
SKYLIGHT ARCH
where cellular service can be spotty. It didn’t take long for us to divert from our original route for a longer drive down Arizona Highway 89A by the Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, a stunning wall of red rock. Along the roadside there’s an old establishment called the Cliff Dwellers where abandoned houses made of stone sit alongside rocks balanced in peculiar formations.
DAY 2 We started the day at Antelope Canyon near Page. You can’t see this stun-
38 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
ning canyon without a guided tour so
protective features. Tourists can stand
make sure to book ahead. For Instagram
right on the edge of steep cliffs to view
lovers, these tour guides are experts at
the river far, far below. It still makes
getting the perfect selfies and even know
me shudder looking back at the photos
the exact photo settings on your iPhone.
of us sitting on the edge with our feet
Another popular tourist spot in the area is Horseshoe Bend. If you have a
dangling over the side. The highlight of our trip came later
fear of heights, this is not a place for you.
that afternoon on a hike to Skylight
The short hike from the highway takes
Arch, just across the border in Utah.
you to the cliffs where the Colorado Riv-
Finding the trailhead was the hardest
er carved through giant red rock. Unlike
part — there are no paved roads, no
the Grand Canyon with its guardrails to
signs and no parking lots offering a clue.
keep you safe, Horseshoe Bend has no
We learned some valuable life lessons in
search of the arch. First, a Chevy Malibu
scenic loop took us to Sunset Crater Vol-
expertise, length and popularity. We
is not designed for off-road driving in
cano, a national monument with hiking
skipped some of the busier trails in favor
the desert. Second, Tripadvisor reviews
trails that weave through black ash and
of quieter paths around the iconic red
are not 100% reliable — that’s why we
lava that devastated the region about
rocks.
posted our own a few days later.
900 years ago. Some of the paths were
Our trusty sedan could only get us so
iced-over and hard to navigate but that’s
far, so we ended up parked about a mile
only to be expected when you hit the
from the trailhead. Only a faint path
park during the cold off-peak season.
from previous hikers helps guide you
Our drive continued through Wupatki
along this 2.25-mile trek across the rim
National Monument, a vast landscape
with fabulous views. And if you’re lucky
of prairie meadows, pine forests and an-
like us, you won’t encounter another
cient pueblos. Make sure to leave enough
person on the trail.
time to explore the dozens of preserved
At the end of the trail, the floor opens
stone villages where Native Americans
up to reveal a hole with an arch thick
thrived eons ago. The day ended with
enough to walk across for an unforgetta-
a stunning sunset across the painted
ble view of Lake Powell in Arizona.
desert.
DAY 3 Our route took us south to the Grand
DAY 4 Over the mountains from Flagstaff
DAY 5 The final day of our trip was reserved for the long drive back across the desert to California. Of course, we opted for a slightly longer route that took us north to Las Vegas. Why not hit up the Hoover Dam since we were in the area? The shorter guided tour takes you down inside the dam and gives you just enough history to satisfy the average roadtripper. It was a birthday week I won’t soon forget. Traveling in off-peak season has its perks: smaller crowds and cheaper hotels. It also has its downfalls: shorter
Canyon. Pictures don’t do this place
to the glorious red rock formations of
days and cooler weather. And even
justice; you really have to see it with your
Sedona we go! Hiking was our plan for
though I still wore my plaid pink scarf
own eyes. Though the main reason for
the day, so our first stop was the Sedona
and winter coat for most of our adven-
our trip to Arizona, we only spent a few
Chamber of Commerce Visitors Center.
tures, I didn’t need the snow boots and
hours here before moving west.
The staff gave excellent recommen-
mittens that would have been required if
dations for trails based on level of
I had celebrated back home in Nebraska.
Just north of Flagstaff, a 34-mile
SEDONA
WUPATKI NATIONAL MONUMENT
CLIFF DWELLERS omaha.com/inspiredliving
39
GARDENING
A D O BE STO C K
Spreading her wings Monarch Butterfly Biosphere in Micho-
with a number that is recorded along
acán, Mexico.
with whether it was raised or wild, and
It made an intense horseback ride up the mountains to the World Heritage
deceased butterfly in Mexico, conserva-
Site last spring worthwhile for her and
tionists report it back to the Monarch
husband Terry.
Watch.
“He doesn’t like horses, but he did it MARJIE DUCEY
SPEAKING OF PLANTS
J
ulie Johnson was astonished as the proud guide pulled the tags from his
wallet. Two of the monarch butterflies she had hatched 1,786 miles away in Oakland, Nebraska, had made it to the
40 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
male or female. If the tag is found on a
anyway,” Julie says. “It was quite a ride.” Julie, a grocery store owner in
“I raise and tag monarchs all summer long,” Julie says. This year she has raised the second and third generations, and
Oakland, has been raising and tagging
the fourth generation is laying eggs.
butterflies for six years — 500 of them —
That’s the generation that migrates to
since seeing it done on a visit to Hitch-
Mexico.
cock Nature Center in Honey Creek,
The day we talked, Julie had 30 eggs
Iowa, with her granddaughters. She
growing on milkweed plants in mesh
records her efforts with the Monarch
laundry baskets in her former hot tub
Watch at the University of Kansas.
room. With screened windows, it’s
Each butterfly gets a little white sticky
almost like being outdoors.
THE CLASSICS
J U L I E J OH N S O N
DINKER’S BAR & GRILL
GARDEN CAFÉ
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A classic café and Rockbrook landmark. Start your day with made-from-scratch breakfast. Lunch offers delicious comfort food, signature soups, salads and hot, traditional chicken and beef entrées. Dine with friends and family, or host your next group meeting at Garden Café.
2368 S. 29TH ST. 402-342-9742 DINKERSBAR.COM
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With a diet of milkweed, the eggs grow into larva and then pupa. In the final step, she never tires of watching the beautiful transformation from chrysalis into butterfly. “Then you let them go. You open up the door and let them fly. And then they go do their thing again.” Julie doesn’t just raise them. Last year, the citizen scientist netted hundreds of monarchs in a seven-day stretch as the butterflies migrated through Oakland. She’d catch 30 in her net at a time, tagging and recording each
GORAT’S STEAK HOUSE
THE MARKET BASKET
An Omaha tradition since 1944. Favorite of Warren Buffett, BRK shareholders, celebrities and dignitaries from around the world. Top-quality filet mignon, prime rib, New York strip, whiskey rib-eye, chops and seafood. Live music most weekends. Daily lunch and dinner.
Make The Market Basket your destination for all things exceptional. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, happy hour (Tuesday-Saturday, 3 p.m. -7 p.m.) and of course, our perfect bakery, gourmet deli selections and finely curated gift selections await!
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one before letting it go. “That takes a lot of time,” she says, “but it’s just so fun.” Julie works it in around running Nelson’s Food Pride, which has been around for 110 years. She’s a thirdgeneration owner and son Dillon will be the next. She’s also an avid gardener with beds at her home, the grocery store, the Swedish Heritage Center and the family’s bed-and-breakfast inn, The Bing, on Main Street. It gives her a lot of places to capture monarchs, she says, and lots of areas to grow milkweed. She’ll head outdoors to prune and weed after a long day at the store. “It’s not work to me,” she says, “it’s R
SIMPLY DELICIOUS A delicious destination for classic dining. Favorites include chicken marsala, beef tenderloin, raspberry salmon, soups, salads and our famous desserts. All regular dinner menu items are available for carryout or curbside pickup Thursday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. 215 N. SPRUCE ST., VALLEY 402-991-7212 0000165830-01 SIMPLYDELICIOUSRESTAURANT.COM
ADVERTISE WITH US! List your small business on the Inspired Living Omaha directory page. Space includes a photo or logo, 50 words and contact information. CONTACT US TO LEARN MORE 402-444-1110 EMAYBERRY@OWH.COM
and R.” omaha.com/inspiredliving
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Artesano Pottery Custom Indoor & Outdoor Pottery • Extensive Interior Accents
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Welcome to
Lu Peverill, Owner Hillsdale Lily Farm, Glenwood, Iowa, May 11, 2020
Listen to what others say about our magazine. Thank you to the staff of Inspired Living for coming to visit us last summer. The story your editor presented and the pictures in the magazine were beautiful and amazing. We had several people come to the garden yesterday as a result of reading the article and seeing our ads. We sold a lot of plants this weekend -- the most we have ever sold!
Fall has come to Voila! Serving you with beautiful Flowers, Gifts, Furniture and Interiors. Watch for news of our Holiday Open House! 4922 Dodge St • 402.991.1970 • Voilaflowers.com During the Covid virus our instore hours are Mon-Sat 9AM-3PM with a mask, but our phones are 24/7. Closed Sun.
42 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
COOKING WITH
We got cooking — Hungarian-style A culinary class wasn’t a Top 10 thing to do in Budapest – until now STORY CHRIS CHRISTEN PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHRISTEN + KURT A. KEELER
A
Hungarian cooking class was the last thing I wanted to do as a tourist
in Budapest. But there I was, preparing paper-thin pastry layers for apple strudel. And loving it. The experience, at Chefparade Cooking School, turned out to be a highlight of a three-day city tour with Rick Steves’ Europe last October. That’s saying a lot because I don’t cook. Or bake. But I do enjoy food, and the Hungarian classics we prepared were fun and delicious and easy enough to try at home. “There’s a huge amount of competition among cooking studios in Budapest,” resident chef Paul Mizner told our group. There are several, and all aspire to be the best. Chefparade opened 14 years ago with one studio and now has four. Its 26 resident and guest chefs offer 120 different classes a year. And in 2018, some 26,500 people — locals and travelers alike — signed up for them. Popularity is growing, Mizner said, as studios get more creative with culinary experiences. A new Chefparade franchise in Prague, for example, offers a cooking-and-glamping package that includes a chef-prepared breakfast the next day. “We’re toying with the idea here,” Mizner said.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 45 omaha.com/inspiredliving
43
44 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
Upon arrival, each person in our
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 43 For folks seeking personal experience travel, this is a hands-on opportunity to cook, to ask questions of accomplished chefs and to enjoy the camaraderie that comes from preparing and sharing a meal together. Mizner, who is Scottish, and his guest chef assistant were patient teachers.
strudel. It was far less intensive than the
group of 24 donned an apron and drew
scratch Spicy Cottage Cheese Cream,
a slip of paper from a jar with a duty
Sour Cherry Soup, and a very complex
assignment. Paper in hand, we moved
Pork Stew and Chicken Paprika.
to our designated prep stations where a
The best part of the novel two-hour
recipe and ingredients were waiting. The
experience was sharing in the meal and
chefs worked the room, explaining steps
toasting our success. My least-favorite
and demonstrating techniques, and then
part? Unicum. The potent herbal liqueur
turned us loose to prepare lunch.
is a classic finish to Hungarian meals.
I was relieved to be making apple
Clearly, it’s an acquired taste.
HUNGARIAN APPLE STRUDEL (ALMAS RETES) MAKES 3 ROLLS OR 16-20 SERVINGS Prep time: 45-60 minutes. This layered pastry with typically sweet filling first became popular in 18th-century Austria. The Hungarian version traditionally is made with a Middle Eastern or Turkish filo dough that’s rolled out and stretched by hand, rested, and then rolled out again. In this recipe from Chefparade Cooking School, pre-made filo sheets cut prep time significantly.
INSTRUCTIONS 1 package filo dough (about 12 sheets) 2 pounds of apples ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons breadcrumbs, toasted ¼ cup butter, melted (4 tablespoons) Powdered sugar for dusting Cooking oil for brushing
1. Peel and core apples then grate them into a big bowl. 2. Add cinnamon and sugar; mix well. 3. Lightly dampen a clean linen kitchen towel and spread smooth on a flat work surface. Place apple filling in center of towel. 4. Gather towel around the apple filling and, holding over a small glass bowl, squeeze out any excess juice. While still in towel, roll filling into a log about three-fourths the width of a filo sheet. Set aside. 5. Spread another clean linen towel on work surface and carefully lay one filo sheet on top of it. Gently smooth the dough and brush with melted butter. Repeat with a second and third layer of filo, staggering the top edges of the sheets about one-fourth inch. For a flakier strudel, add a fourth sheet. 6. Scatter breadcrumbs lightly onto the top filo sheet. 7. Place apple filling along the bottom edge of prepared filo and roll up the pastry tightly. Tuck the ends to hold in filling. Brush top and sides of dough roll with butter. 8. Bake on a cookie sheet in preheated 350 F oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Strudel is done when it looks like it has collapsed. Let cool. Cut into slices, plate and dust with powdered sugar.
Note: You can vary the filling by adding chopped walnuts or raisins. Adapted from “Hungarian Classics” by Chefparade Cooking School omaha.com/inspiredliving
45
46 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
RECIPES
Light as air STORY + PHOTOGRAPHY KILEY CRUSE
We’ll take a generous slice of this buttery, puffy oven pancake, please and thank you.
VANILLA DUTCH BABY INSTRUCTIONS 4 tablespoons butter 4 eggs, at room temperature ¾ cup flour (all-purpose works but bread flour adds puffiness) ¾ cup milk, heated 20 to 30 seconds in the microwave 1½ tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract Pinch salt 3 cups fruit Powdered sugar, for dusting
1. Preheat the oven to 425 F. 2. Put a large (12-inch), ovenproof pan in the oven to heat while you mix the batter. 3. In a blender, combine the eggs, flour, warm milk, sugar, vanilla extract and pinch of salt. Blend on medium-high speed until uniform. (If mixing by hand, combine the eggs with the milk until the mixture is light yellow and no longer stringy, about 1 minute. Add the flour, sugar, vanilla and pinch of salt, and whisk vigorously to remove lumps, about 30 seconds.) 4. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven. Add butter and let melt. 5. Swirl the butter around the pan to coat completely, and then pour the remaining butter into the batter and pulse to blend. Pour the batter into the hot pan and return the pan to the oven. Cook until the pancake is puffed in the center and golden brown along the edges, about 20 minutes. 6. Using a spatula, remove the entire Dutch baby from the pan and place on a cooling rack for a few minutes to allow the steam to escape without condensing along the bottom and rendering the pancake soggy. 7. Dust with powdered sugar and top with fruit of your choice. Slice the pancake into 8 wedges and serve. Adapted from foodnetwork.com omaha.com/inspiredliving
47
SMALL BUSINESS DIRECTORY
ALL SEASONS FLORAL & GIFTS
EHLY’S INTERIORS
Hooray, it’s time for our Semi-Annual Sale! Items up to 75% off! Just in time for holiday gift shopping and dressing up your home for the season. We are always curating something fun and fabulous in florals, décor and unique gifts.
We do windows! We repair blinds! Family owned and operated for over 43 years. Full interior décor service; blinds, fabrics, drapery, upholstery, wallpaper and carpeting. Stop by our showroom to see the latest in décor fashions.
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2312 BOB BOOZER DRIVE 402-330-6557 EHLYSINTERIORS.COM
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ERWIN’S JEWELERS
NEW LIFE THRIFT
SPRUCE & ROSIE JANE
The symbol of America, “Land of the Free” is now available exclusively at Erwin’s Bellevue Jewelry. Fused glass designer Deb Kubik worked with Erwin’s to create this icon of freedom. The perfect gift, available in different sizes, starting at $39.
Find designer, vintage, antiques, clothing and furniture. Call for pickup of your estate sale leftovers. Ranked Best Thrift Store in Nebraska by BestThingsNE.com. Back by popular demand: Holiday Store (now open 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Wed.-Sat.) with Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas merchandise.
Fun Midtown shopping! Rosie Jane has an amazing variety of clothes, books, and toys for babies and toddlers. Just next door, Spruce has a wide range of home décor and gifts for every occasion. Complimentary gift wrap!
223 W. MISSION AVE., BELLEVUE 402-291-2454 ERWINSJEWELERSCO.COM
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TEXTILES
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Dare to be unique! Textiles has it all. Interior residential and commercial design, custom upholstery, custom drapery, lighting, wallpaper, and furniture. See our huge selection of stain resistant fabrics.
Create a bespoke purse out of needlepoint. Omaha’s premier needlework shop located in Countryside Village.
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48 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0
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