Inspired Living Omaha - September/October 2020

A N O M A H A W O R L D - H E R A L D P U B L I C AT I O N • S E R V I N G N E B R A S K A & W E S T E R N I O W A

S E P T E M B E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 2 0 OMAHA.COM/INSPIREDLIVING

THE TRAVEL ISSUE

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1

HEirlOOmS aNd

curated COllECtiONS

S E P T E M B E R / O C TO B E R 2 0 2 0 • V O L U M E 1 8 • I S S U E 5

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Chris Christen 402-444-1094 | chris.christen@owh.com CREATIVE DIRECTOR & DESIGNER Jessica Thompson 402-444-1120 | jthompson@owh.com

StOrE HOurS tuES-Sat, 10-5 SuN, 12-4 Shop our online Store • prairieinbloom.com 1702 Cuming Street Omaha, NE 68102 402-502-5265

ASSISTANT EDITOR Marjie Ducey 402-444-1034 | marjie.ducey@owh.com COPY EDITOR Pam Richter ON THE COVER Horseshoe Bend, Arizona, February 2020 Photographed by Kiley Cruse CONTENT CONTRIBUTORS Kiley Cruse,Vanessa Denney, Sandra Ducey, Monica Freeborn, Julie Johnson, Kurt A. Keeler, Dianne McMillan, Daniel Muller, Anna Reed, Renay Robison-Scheer, Kendall Scheer, Karissa Sears, Lily Smith, Heidi Yttri, Tammy Yttri CUSTOM PUBLISHING SALES MANAGER Eric Mayberry 402-444-1110 | emayberry@owh.com ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVES Deborah Fernsell | 402-444-1209 | dfernsell@owh.com Marilyn Martin | 402-444-1405 | marilyn.martin@owh.com EVENTS Tam Webb | 402-444-3125 | tam.webb@owh.com

1314 Douglas St., Suite 700, Omaha, NE 68102 Inspired Living Omaha (ISSN 23795948) is a publication of the Omaha World-Herald. ©2020, Omaha World-Herald, a Lee Enterprises Company. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the specific written permission of the publisher. The opinions expressed by those interviewed are their own. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of information, no responsibility can be accepted by the publisher for content, opinions or practices, or how the information herein is used. All materials submitted, including but not limited to images, logos and text that appear, are assumed to be the original work of the provider, and the publisher is not responsible for unintentional copyright infringement.

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CONTENTS DESIGN DONE RIGHT 8

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HISTORIC GEM 13

KEEPERS OF HISTORY

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EDITOR'S NOTE

KURT A . KE E L E R

Confessions of a do-it-yourself tourist

Seeing Prague and Budapest with this

LAST OCTOBER,

when we met up with the

friends and colleagues

tour group in Prague. The

knew that my husband

orientation session quickly

Kurt and I left with:

and I were traveling to

modified my thinking.

1. A deeper understanding of the

group was a priceless experience.

This was not the

hard realities of Communist oppression

I was largely quiet,

stereotypical travel

and the horrors of the Holocaust, having

however, about one

junket I feared. Kurt and

heard the stories of families who lived it.

detail: We were joining

I were in the company of

Prague and Budapest.

up with a tour.

Kurt and I pride

CHRIS CHRISTEN

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

ourselves on self-

sophisticated, seasoned

Hungarians who speak English. We

travelers. Bonus: This was

never got beyond “Ahoj!” (hello) in

one of Rick Steves’ most

Prague. And “Egészségedre” (cheers!) in

guided travel. Being part of a pack of 50,

active tours, with most days strenuously

following a guide with a red flag and a

paced with up to 8 miles of walking.

strict timeline, is not our idea of fun.

(This is something we knew going in.)

We do, however, enjoy Rick Steves’

2. Gratitude for Czechs and

As introductions were made, I took

Budapest.

3. An appreciation of having local guides who know the best watering holes, exchange kiosks, local markets

travelogues and guidebooks and use

particular note of a NASA retiree on his

them to map out our itineraries abroad.

20th Rick Steves tour; a high-ranking

His travel style is a good match for ours.

Air Force officer and her naval aviator

And like Steves, our linguistic skills

husband; and a single thirtysomething

serve us well in French- and German-

neurosurgery physician’s assistant (who

currency you’re using so you don’t repeat

speaking countries. But Czech and

— joy! — became my assigned “buddy”

the mistake of leaving the equivalent of a

Hungarian are completely foreign to our

for the duration of the tour).

$150 tip for a $60 restaurant meal. This

ear. And tough!

The most extraordinary travel

and laundry facilities.

4. A new group of friends with similar travel interests.

5. A note to self: Triple-check the

happened in an Italian restaurant in

companion, however, was Jana

Budapest (after a bottle of wine). Oops. I

bucket-list Prague and Budapest, we

Hronkova, our Prague-based guide.

hope the waiter went home happy ...

broke our solo-travel streak, took a

Jana (pronounced Yana) grew up under

chance and signed on for an eight-day

Communist rule in Czechoslovakia,

escorted tour with Rick Steves’ Europe.

now the Czech Republic. We bonded

Truth be told, I was in an “I-don’t-

immediately, and my anti-tour bias

To benefit most from our time in

think-we-need-this” frame of mind

6 S E P T E M B E R /O C T O B E R 2 02 0

evaporated.

Here’s to that time when it will be safe to travel the world again!

C HR I S C HR IST EN + KU RT A. KEE L ER

SCENES FROM OUR TRIP

Clockwise from top left St. Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest; our guide Jana at the Velvet Revolution memorial in Prague; a Prague sidewalk; Holocaust memorial marker on a walking tour in Budapest; facades in Prague; a treat from Gelarto Rosa in Budapest. Opposite page Hungarian Parliament from a Danube River excursion boat. omaha.com/inspiredliving

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8 S E P T E M B E R /O C T O B E R 2 02 0

DESIGN DONE RIGHT

this is us VANESSA AND CHRIS DENNEY say they’ve finished their house renovations just in time.

Daughter Chandlar will turn a year old in a few days, and they’ve got their hands full trying to keep her corralled.

It feels good to be done, at least with the big stuff.

“We love our home,” they say. “Our

After a decade of home updates, mix of traditional and contemporary finally fits family’s style STORY MARJIE DUCEY PHOTOGRAPHY LILY SMITH,

DANIEL MULLER + KARISSA SEARS

goal was to make it feel like us, and it really does.”

They’ve been chipping away at their

traditional and contemporary design.

“It has taken us a long time to get

to-do list since purchasing the 1983

through all the different parts of our

five-bedroom walk-out ranch near Zorin-

home,” Vanessa says.

sky Lake 10 years ago. The brass fixtures,

On their own, they fixed up the

maple veneers and peach and green

basement, retiled the floor in the entry,

colors are gone, making way for a mix of

installed new carpet, replaced all the

doors and trim and painted every room.

Outside, the siding was replaced, a new front door was installed and the landscaping got some attention.

The living room was just completed, with new furniture that better fits their design style. They painted the walls but hired a professional to stain the fireplace mantel and beams to get the color just right.

Just off that room, lighting, a fan and a new ceiling that hides the mechanics of the roof have made the new version of their covered deck one of their favorite places. That was their 2018 challenge.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 10

KITCHEN BEFORE

LIVING ROOM BEFORE

KITCHEN

LIVING ROOM

Removing the wall between the dining room and kitchen was huge for the family. The old layout wasn’t functional, Vanessa says.

A new layout and modern furniture make this room lighter and brighter. Vanessa says before it seemed dark and constrictive. omaha.com/inspiredliving

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 9 “It’s really become an extension of our living space. We utilize this every day,” the homeowners say. “When Chandlar first wakes up, we sit on the deck and listen to birds along the trail and look at the trees. We have coffee out here a lot.”

It was Chandlar who prompted their

needs with a baby on the way.

“We basically took everything down to the studs and started over.”

door that hides a small laundry area had to stay.

An island, a place to eat, a coffee bar,

On this project, they needed help,

adequate countertops for Vanessa, who

especially to talk through the design.

loves to cook, and even room for a high

They worked with Gitt Construction and

chair were on the list of must-haves.

Monica Freeborn of Amethyst Home

“We had talked about having the

to figure out how to get all the elements

most functional layout we can, but also a

they wanted while keeping a few things

cost-effective plan. That’s how we landed

biggest project. The chopped up kitchen

they loved. Stained-glass windows made

with this layout,” she says. “The pantry

and dining room didn’t really fit their

by Vanessa’s sister and a favorite barn

cabinets, the open shelving, some of

10 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

KITCHEN Opening the refrigerator door with the old layout caused gridlock.

Now, there’s plenty of room.

STAINED GLASS WINDOWS The stained glass between the kitchen and living room was done by Vanessa’s sister, Brenda Anglim.

COVERED DECK This was also redone and the family uses it much more. It’s now one of their favorite spaces.

didn’t have a space like that before.”

those different elements we knew we needed. There were a few things I knew I

A few smaller projects are still on

wanted — the statement rangehood, the

the list — things like new vanities in

light fixture above the sink. The island was really important to me.

“Monica helped us pick our moments

and even though they no longer have a formal dining room, there are still plen-

the bathrooms and replacing a window

ty of places to sit for family occasions.

above the garage. But it’s now a place

A banquette seating nook on one end

where we could make a statement while

has turned into a lounging area they

still being mindful of our budget. That

never knew they needed.

concept has helped me with other areas of our home.”

The neutral colors are more “them,”

“Our daughter loves looking out that

they can enjoy, along with the area, the nearby parks and their neighbors.

“We’ve done reasonable tasteful updates that match our style and budget.

window. It’s a nice cozy space to drink

We have made the space ours. We’re very

coffee or have a glass of wine. We really

happy with it.” omaha.com/inspiredliving

11

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HISTORIC GEM

KEEPERS OF HISTORY B&B owners serve up hospitality and a taste of yesteryear in 110-year-old home

T

STORY MARJIE DUCEY PHOTOGRAPHY ANNA REED he name of their blog — Eggs & Sheets — perfectly sums up their life, Gordon and Linda Mueller say.

It’s a blur of cooking and cleaning at

their Queen Anne residence in Bennington,

which they run as both Oft’s Bed & Breakfast and as a carriage house Airbnb. The home, known as the Oft-Gordon House, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

“It’s a totally different experience than going to a hotel or motel,” Gordon says.

Don’t pass on the breakfast, he advises. That’s where the eggs come in along with homemade bread, jams and jellies.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 14

WRAPAROUND PORCH Rebuilding the porch and columns is one of many renovations the Muellers have done since they inherited the house in 2007. omaha.com/inspiredliving

13

GUEST ROOMS Both bedrooms on the second floor were remodeled with bathrooms and access to a balcony.

CARRIAGE HOUSE Gordon calls it his last hurrah, as far as major construction goes. He finished it two years ago, and rents it out as an Airbnb. The wheelchair belonged to Gordon’s greatgrandfather, Eggert Oft.

FORMAL PARLOR Breakfast is served in this room now because of the pandemic. It gives guests more room to spread out.

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 13 There’s good company, too.

The Muellers like people, which they say is a must for anyone in the hospitality industry. Visiting may take place on the wraparound porch now instead of inside because of the coronavirus pandemic, but guests continue to book.

A stay at the 1910 home provides a break from the hustle and bustle of city living and gives people a glimpse of life on the prairie years ago. Visitors will point out items in the history room on the second floor that their grandma used to use, and Linda says they love the antiques that fill the house.

“We’re kind of a small-town oasis,” Gordon says. “We have some walking trails out here. You can go 300 yards and be in a cornfield. We are getting swallowed up by Omaha suburbia but we still have a small-town feel.”

Although only three miles outside city limits, people from Omaha as well as Lincoln make the short drive just to get away. Other guests have come from as far away as Australia, and often from Chicago.

Their many repeat guests are viewed as part of the family.

“We hate charging them, but they insist,” Gordon says. “We give them a great discount. We get cards from them all the time.”

The Muellers, who had been living in Denver, inherited the home when

CONTINUED ON PAGE 16 14 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

omaha.com/inspiredliving

15

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 14 Gordon’s mother died in 2007. It was in poor shape, and they spent the next few years updating it.

“Just about everything,” Gordon says.

That included hanging 200 rolls of wallpaper, not to mention installing new wiring, plumbing and heating and air

ago was their last push.

They did the work themselves.

Gordon is in charge of repairs and Linda of cleaning. They split cooking duties, although it’s Linda who produces the made-from-scratch cookies that guests find hard to resist.

If they eat one too many or just need to

of Bennington, spearheaded that effort as president of the local history club.

In addition to their “Eggs & Sheets”

conditioning. There were no bathrooms

stretch their legs, they can head out on a

blog, Gordon has a newly launched

on the second floor where guests stay,

self-guided walking tour through town.

history blog with almost 100,000 visi-

so one was added for each of the two

Blue-and-white signs with photographs

tors. And he just signed a contract with

bedrooms. The porch and columns were

and descriptions designate historic

Arcadia Publishing to write a book titled

rebuilt and wood floors refinished, too.

buildings along the way. Gordon, whose

“Around Bennington” for its “Images of

The carriage house remodel two years

great-grandfather was a founding father

America” series.

16 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

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The oldest picture in the book dates from 1890, with many from around 1900. “Community life, a lot of farming ones, how the town got started, the railroads,” Gordon says. “I’ve been collecting images and I’m trying to get them out for public access.”

The Muellers, who are both 70, had planned to stay in business for only a few years. Although they’ve trimmed back on bookings this summer to provide a more thorough cleaning between stays, they have no plans to slow down.

“It keeps us busy,” Gordon says.

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N E A R + FA R

PEOPLE AREN’T GIVING UP ON T R AV E L I N G

STORY MARJIE DUCEY

P

UN S PL A S H .CO M

eople are eager to hit the road again.

Or at least to start planning a

trip, for when they hope the weight

Travel with us on these pages if you can’t travel for real CHOOSE YOUR DESTINATION Dev Bhoomi, India Page 20

of the coronavirus pandemic isn’t so heavy.

“We’re getting a lot of requests from people

who want to travel next year and a fair amount for the end of this year,” says Jeff Cain of Travel and Transport.

Some, feeling stir crazy after months of working at home, are already packing their cars and driving

Everyone will have to get used to new boarding procedures, mask requirements and other safety requirements.

Airlines and hotels are making strides in their efforts to keep people safe from COVID-19, and Cain thinks that by January cruise lines will have their safety protocols in place, too.

Cain’s advice: Weigh your own health and risk factors, check on restrictions before you book and buy travel insurance.

Guidelines can change overnight. Many foreign

four to five hours for mini vacations close to home

borders continue to be temporarily closed to

— where they still feel safe. State and national

Americans while others have self-quarantine rules

Prague Page 26

parks are popular destinations.

upon arrival. Some U.S. cities and states also have

Tobago Page 30

an, says Cain, a senior vice president of specialty

quarantines — that can interfere with traveling or

divisions.

sightseeing.

Grand Canyon Page 34 American Southwest Page 38

Others are venturing to Mexico or the Caribbe-

Travel most likely will be forever changed as the world reopens for business, Cain predicts.

Masks, hand-washing and social distancing will be just as important on a trip as they are at home.

restrictions and policies — including two-week

And, of course, don’t forget your own cleaning supplies to guard against nasty germs.

“It never hurts to have sanitizer to wipe down your area,” Cain says. omaha.com/inspiredliving

19

N E A R + FA R

life ab ove t he clo uds Yearlong visits to India are a chance to experience the nature of mountain life STORY + PHOTOGRAPHY SANDRA DUCEY

S

andra Ducey, a native Nebraskan, has made five yearlong trips to India, thanks to the work of her husband, David Haberman, a religious studies professor at Indiana University who specializes in Hinduism. She journals regularly during her visits. Following are excerpts from the summer of 2019, when she and David lived in a pilgrimage town.

ARRIVAL After a 24-hour flight, warnings about hazardous air in New Delhi, a wild drive from the plains up into the hills, we’ve arrived at our mountain home near Uttarkashi, a midsized pilgrimage town on the Bhāgīrathī River, the main tributary of the Ganges.

We’re about six miles up the mountain, but taxis into town are cheap. The bazaar is bright, busy and well-stocked

20 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

with dhal (rice and mustard oil) plus pas-

American professor friend. It’s the most

ta, cleaning supplies, toilet paper — even

modern place we’ve ever lived anywhere

olive oil, once hard to find outside the big

at just 10 years old. And for the first time

cities. We buy vegetables at outdoor stalls

in 30 years in India, we have a washing

or carts. Lychees are in season, as well

machine! A natural spring tumbles down

as asparagus-like fiddlehead ferns. We

from the hill above us, so there’s plenty

try to restrain ourselves since we have to

of water, solar-heated. The bugs stay

carry everything — groceries, a gas tank,

away until dusk, so we keep the doors

our luggage — up 111 stone steps from the

open. When it rains, puffs of cool clouds

road to our temporary home.

sneak around the furniture.

We’re staying in a house owned by an

And then there’s the view from the

CAFE IN UKHIMATH

TERRACES ABOVE UTTARKASHI

porch. Glorious vistas of terraced hillsides, golden with wheat ready to be harvested by hand. Valleys carved from rivers feeding the great Ganges roll in pine-dark folds to distant snow-covered peaks glinting in the sunlight. This area is known as Dev Bhoomi, land of the gods. But the beauty of the landscape could also be called divine.

Our neighbors’ two dogs often visit,

MARKET IN UTTARKASHI

KEDARNATH We spent 10 days traveling on mountain roads notorious for landslides, blind curves, traffic jams and steep drop-offs to visit the last two sites on our pilgrimage to the Char Dham, the “four abodes,” ancient temples nestled beneath the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas.

Was I scared? You bet. The sober-

and accompany us on walks. They are

ing sight of vehicles crumpled on the

free to roam at will, but Hari and Puppy

rocks below us, too many near-misses

stay close, alert for the panthers that

on a narrow road, and the long wait at a

roam these hills, and hopeful that the

rickety bridge while bus passengers dis-

langur monkeys that romp in the tree-

embarked and walked across so the bus

tops will come down to the ground.

wouldn’t be too heavy. Such is pilgrimage

through Dev Bhoomi.

We drove to Badrinath on a breathtaking, above-the-clouds road with spectacular cliffs. Our only “Eeek!” moment was when a clambering goat sent boulders crashing around us.

But getting to Kedarnath, a Shiva temple on a plateau about 10 miles up the Mandakini River valley, involved hours of driving, walking and riding ponies.

This site was the main focus of David’s research on the effects of climate change on pilgrimage. There was a catastrophic landslide there in 2013 that wiped out

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21

KEDARNATH TEMPLE

22 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

DHOOLIE

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 21 the local bazaar and surrounding buildings and structures, but miraculously, not the temple.

The trek was a humbling experience.

We struggled, even though we were the privileged with sleeping bags, good shoes, down jackets and backpacks

measured steps — while others went up

sun to rain to snow and back again, often

in basket seats strapped to the backs of

in just a few hours. We mingled among

men bent double by the weight, astound-

the pilgrims, most of whom stood in line

ing and disturbing.

for eight hours or more (after walking

For us, mounted, it was steady ponynose-to-pony-tail traffic, harness bells jingling to alert the walkers ahead of us, most in flip-flops or even barefoot.

rather than satchels perched on our

Thousands of pilgrims from all walks of

heads. We hired ponies, along with

life streamed up and down the cobbled

their handlers, hard-working “paharis”

trail. Our trek to Kedarnath lasted al-

(mountain dwellers) who often traverse

most seven hours and took us from 6,000

the mountain twice a day, trying to make

feet to 12,000 feet of elevation, through

as much money as possible during the

dozens of steep switchbacks, heat, wind

pilgrimage season. Some of the pilgrims

and glacier fields.

used dhoolies — wooden seats on long poles carried by four men walking in

BOULDER AT KEDARNATH TEMPLE

We stayed two nights at Kedarnath, watching as the weather shifted from

uphill all day) to file into the temple for a 10-second viewing of the deity.

We also witnessed a modern-day pilgrimage: helicopters. A seven-minute flight up to Kedarnath, a VIP line into the temple, then seven minutes back down. Given our chafed skin and aching muscles from the trek up, we considered flying down the mountain. But in the end, we went down as we’d gone up. And we had been blessed by our participation in a sacred journey.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 24

UKHIMATH

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23

HARI AND PUPPY AT HOME

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 23

place, warm torrential rain pounded the

down and the clouds creep in. Monsoon

UKHIMATH

mountains for three days. Finally a mud,

season is here, and it’s time for us to

silt and rock dam on the slope behind

leave.

We’re taking a break from our travels in Ukhimath, a town hanging on a mountainside in the hills that lead to Kedarnath. It’s small and colorful, with ancient temples, interesting shops and lots of narrow, curvy lanes leading up and down that are fun to explore, even though the up part takes my breath away.

This Midwestern girl is not used to these elevations!

We’ve been eating every meal at the same cafe; there aren’t too many options, and the food is good. The cook had a café in Kedarnath before it was washed away in the 2013 flood. When we’d asked what he’d done when the floodwaters came, he laconically said “run,” and pointed up.

He turned to go to his stove, then looked back at us. “Depression,” he said quietly. He waved his hand in a circle that encompassed the town. “All people, depression.”

More on the “apda,” what the locals call the Kedarnath disaster: It happened in the middle of pilgrimage season, after snow melts in May and before monsoon rains begin in July, when tens of thousands of pilgrims and seasonal workers are on the mountain.

Instead of the usual snow, which stays in

24 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

the temple burst, letting loose a cascade of icy water.

I’ve loved being here. The fabulous views are always changing; glance away

The raging torrent wiped out the

and everything is altered. I like living in

structures around the temple, where

and above the clouds. As we walk up and

thousands were huddled for shelter.

down the terraced fields with the dogs,

Bridges, paths, forests were destroyed;

I wonder about those who sculpted the

thousands of goats and ponies killed;

mountainside: Why a village here?

tents and food stalls washed away; an

What’s it like to milk cows and tend

entire village scoured from the moun-

fields and raise kids where you are

tainside. The Kedarnath temple was

scrambling about on narrow paths?

spared when an unusually large boulder

Who struggled to haul all those stones

tumbled to a stop about 20 feet behind

up to that lonely ridge to build a home?

the stone temple, splitting the current

It couldn’t have been easy, especially

and saving the temple from the blunt

when everything was hauled up here

force of the flood.

on the backs of men and mules. Even

Official reports say 7,000 people

today, challenges lurk here: floods and

died; but locals, many who lost multiple

landslides and, a few days ago, an earth-

family members, say the tally is closer to

quake. It measured only 3.1 in magni-

30,000.

Although climate change is almost universally agreed to be the cause of the freak storm, many pilgrims attribute the disaster to the anger of the gods, disturbed by the desecration of the sacred sites by development and disrespectful behavior.

TIME TO GO I’m sitting in the doorway of our house in the mountains while the rain pours

tude, but we were at the epicenter and the windows as well as our equanimity were rattled.

Here I’ve learned to cook exotic vegetables, met fascinating people, participated in rituals hundreds — maybe thousands — of years old, filled up half a journal and taken hundreds of photos. I’ve bathed in the stream that bubbles to the surface a few terraces up from the house.

Can you see why I am so sad to leave? I can only do so believing I will return.

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Learn more or get inspired at prairieinbloom.com. omaha.com/inspiredliving

25

Prague N E A R + FA R

LIKE A LOCAL

The best sights, sounds and stories in one of Europe’s most fascinating cities STORY CHRIS CHRISTEN PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHRISTEN

dark and brooding in the mist. Inside,

M

Alfons Mucha delivers an uplifting burst

Czech Republic, is a mind-boggling trea-

of color and light.

sure chest of history, architecture, art,

+ KURT A. KEELER

assive St. Vitus Cathedral was barely visible in the damp, early morning fog as

a stained-glass window by Czech artist

The Art Nouveau masterwork, com-

day. Welcome to 21st century Prague.

This 1,000-year-old city, capital of the

culture and tradition. And now, a renais-

pleted in 1931, honors Vaclav I, the pa-

sance is underway. After a half-century

we passed through the formidable stone

tron saint of the Czech Republic. A duke,

of Nazi and Communist oppression that

gates of Prague Castle. For more than a

he brought Christianity, unity and hope

ended in 1989 on the heels of the Velvet

thousand years, Czech leaders — from

to the region in the Middle Ages. Better

Revolution, Prague is once again coming

kings and emperors to Nazis, Commu-

known as “Good King Wenceslas,” he’s

into its own.

nists and presidents — have ruled from

an icon of Czech nationalism and piety,

this sprawling compound.

and a central figure of local lore.

“Thirty years ago you would have found a drab and deteriorating city,”

The centuries-old Gothic cathedral

Back outside the cathedral, the veil of

our Czech guide notes as she speaks of

— 600 years in the making — appears

fog lifts, revealing a bright and beautiful

emperors, regimes, conquests, defeats

26 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

CZECH SPECIALTIES I was nervous about the cuisine, primarily because of the heavy use of paprika. I mistakenly presumed that Czech food would have a lot of heat. But sweet paprika is the spice of choice. Czech specialties to remember: » Svickova, a beloved dish of roast pork with a creamy, golden vegetable puree, served with knedliky (boiled dumplings for soaking up the sauce) and a dollop of cranberry sauce. » Livance, small pillow-like pancakes, served warm with melted butter and a dusting of either cinnamon sugar or powdered sugar, or a drizzling of hot fudge or strawberry sauce. » Gulas, or goulash. Every restaurant and pub seems to have its own version of this hearty meat stew. Typically served with sliced dark bread or dumplings. And a Pilsner. » Chlebicek, an open-faced sandwich that’s the Czech version of fast food. Ours was a half-slice of baguette-like bread with an egg-salad spread, thinly sliced prazska sunka (Prague ham) and fresh-sliced tomato. » Becherovka, a liqueur made from a secret recipe of herbs and spices. We had a round of shots at the Cash Only Bar (it’s the name and the payment policy). Luckily, we only had a twoblock walk to our hotel. The Czech Republic’s national drink packs a punch.

WHERE WE STAYED

VIEW FROM STRAHOV MONASTERY

and days of glory in Prague’s storied and complex past. It’s more than a recitation.

Our Rick Steves’ Europe tour guide, Jana Hronkova, grew up under Communist rule. She was 12 when the student demonstrations in Wenceslas Square on Nov. 17, 1989, set a revolution in motion.

Hronkova’s insight and personal anecdotes would enrich our four-day Prague walking tour just two weeks before the 30th anniversary of the uprising.

Here are highlights of exploring on foot (sometimes 8 miles a day) and feeling like a temporary local in one of Europe’s best-preserved, mostvisited cities last October.

Best views Old Town Hall Tower, Stare Mesto (Old Town). Prague is called the “Golden City of a Hundred Spires.” I’ll bet it’s a thousand. Our best bird’s-eye view was from atop the Old Town Hall (with the world-famous astronomical clock) on the Old Town Square. The red-tiled roofs and black-and-white mosaic sidewalks below are classic Prague. The astronomical clock draws astronomical crowds on the hour, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, for the little glockenspiel show that’s been a tradition since the early 1400s. Yes, it’s a

CONTINUED ON PAGE 28

Hotel Leonardo, a boutique hotel within easy walking distance of Charles Bridge, Old Town and the Little Quarter. The breakfast room was in the lower level and cave-like in a cool way. The fare was international, with sweet and savory offerings. Our room was large by European standards. Suitestyle, with a queen bed, sitting area and full bath. No view, but we didn’t care.

GETTING AROUND The Metro, tram and bus lines are easy to use; day passes are the most convenient way to go.

ABOUT THE TOUR We felt like temporary locals, with ample free time each day to explore on our own. We arrived one day early upon the advice of the tour coordinator for Rick Steves. This gave us 24 hours to acclimate and recover from jet lag before meeting up with the tour group. From Prague, we traveled by motorcoach to Budapest, a city with a cosmopolitan vibe, especially in the town square. The Ruin Bar scene (club-like, in abandoned buildings), a Hungarian cooking class and a night cruise on the Danube River were highlights of our time in Buda and Pest. omaha.com/inspiredliving

27

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 27 shoulder-to-shoulder selfie fest.

The iconic view of Charles Bridge with Prague Castle high on a hill in the distance is found along busy Smetanovo Nabrezi on the right bank of the Vltava River. Our first look was a dream come to life. Prague already was more than we imagined.

Romantic strolls Prague after dark is mesmerizing, especially in the historic core. Strolls along a four-block stretch of Smetanovo Nabrezi to Charles Bridge and then to either Little Quarter or Old Town are

VIEW FROM CHARLES BRIDGE

must-dos. Have dinner in one neighborhood and dessert in the other. The later the hour, the more you’ll feel like a local in a postcard come to life.

Arts & culture The interior of Municipal House near the black-stained Powder Tower, an original gate in the Old Town wall, is an Art Nouveau masterpiece decorated with patriotic Czech themes. Prague’s largest concert hall is housed here, and after a daytime tour, we bought tickets for a chamber orchestra concert that evening.

The program and acoustics, enjoyed from velvet seats, lived up to the hype.

There are countless opportunities around the city to enjoy Czech classical music for free. A favorite experience on the tour was an evening parlor concert featuring best-loved arias from operas

ST. VITUS CATHEDRAL

OLD TOWN SQUARE

by Mozart, Dvorak and Smetana at the Bedrich Smetana Museum. No pictures, please. Or risk being embarrassed by an

best, we got the same answer: They’re all

Quarter to Charles Bridge. Before the in-

accompanist’s piercing glare.

good. We caught a show at Black Theater

troduction of house numbers, buildings

I adored small but significant Alfons

of Jiri Srnec, a tiny art house. Envision

in Prague were identified by a unique

Mucha Museum, one of Prague’s hidden

a small stage with a black velvet curtain.

symbol such as a star, a fleur de lis, a coat

gems. You may not recognize the name,

Puppeteers are behind the curtain, ma-

of arms. We had fun collecting photos of

but you’ve likely seen Mucha’s work.

nipulating objects on the front. Mean-

gilded examples on the stately embas-

The Czech artist (1860-1939) wowed

while, actors in front of the curtain are

sies that line the streets of this former

the world with his theater posters in the

interacting with the objects. The illusion

diplomatic enclave near Prague Castle.

emerging Art Nouveau style, and a series

is great fun. And perfect for an interna-

Our two-hour route took us through

tional audience. It’s all done in mime.

Little Quarter Square and the domineer-

Daytime walks

marionettes and gingerbread confec-

of huge nationalistic paintings depicting epic events in the life of the Slavs.

Black light illusion can be found around the world, but it’s said to have

Our favorite free-time walk was

originated in Prague. When we asked

from Strahov Monastery down through

locals which theater company does it

the heart of Mala Strana or the Little

28 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

ing Church of St. Nicholas. Shops selling tions drew us in; the free Wallenstein Palace Garden did too.

The John Lennon Wall, a meaningful

illuminated in the distance and the statues of saints lending a watchful eye.

History & lore Prague Castle is reputed to be one of Europe’s largest. A visit to it in Hradcany, the Castle Quarter, offers a meaningful overview of the country’s complex history. The compound sits prominently above the city. The grounds and gardens are beautifully maintained, the plazas are built for scores of visitors and the vistas of Charles Bridge and Old Town are memorable. We had a half-day castle visit, then hopped a tram to Mala HAVELSKA MARKET

POWDER TOWER

Strana for a casual lunch at 17th-century Strahov Monastery Brewery, known for its craft brews. We copied the locals and ordered Czech spreads with bread to enjoy with that first round. After lunch we walked to the monastery’s terrace for one of Prague’s most picturesque redroofed, spire-filled city views.

Czechs love French architecture and the best examples of Art Nouveau with overtures of Paris’ Champs Elysees are in Josefov, the Jewish Quarter, just off the Old Town Square. Deeper into the neighborhood, the mood turns somber at Pinkas Synagogue. The alcove walls are hand-inscribed with the names and birth and death dates of some 77,300 Czech Jews, all victims of the Holocaust.

In another space, Jewish children’s renderings tell the story of life in a Nazi

ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK IN OLD TOWN SQUARE

concentration camp. The Old Cemetery — with some 12,000 tombstones — dates from 1439 to 1787, when this was the only

Prague attraction near Charles Bridge, was under renovation. A disappoint-

Food & spirits Dinner the first night of the tour was

ment, but a nearby graffiti-covered

at an Austrian restaurant called Kocar z

building wall captured the spirit of the

Vidne in a cobblestoned courtyard near

real thing and made for a fun selfie.

Charles Bridge. The food was wonderful,

burial ground for the city’s Jews. Graves stacked seven or eight deep bring the total to 85,000 buried here — a possibility difficult to fathom in such a small space.

Modern Prague

but the live music was the highlight.

Cross the moat — actually a street

walking a steep path to the summit of

Czech folk tunes and a little Mozart,

called Na Prikope that follows the line

Petrin Hill for a panoramic view of the

performed by a mustachioed flutist

of the Old Town wall — and you’re in

city from Petrin Lookout Tower, a 200-

and an accordionist from the Prague

Nove Mesto, the New Town of malls and

foot replica of the Eiffel Tower. The view

Castle Orchestra, filled our corner of

high-end shops and the home of Art

from the 1891 attraction was stunning,

the restaurant for about a half-hour. The

Nouveau art and architecture. Good

even on a hazy day. If only the funicular

late-evening walk back to our hotel took

King Wenceslas stands grandly in the

had been in service.... Goulash and rye

us across the iconic 14th-century bridge

square, framed by the National Museum.

bread from the snack bar provided ener-

— sans crowds. It was rather romantic

No doubt relishing all that Prague has

gy for the long trek down the hill.

under that starry sky with Prague Castle

come to be.

An afternoon on our own found us

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29

N E A R + FA R

A W O R L D AWAY Tiny Tobago is as close to paradise as you can get STORY CHRIS CHRISTEN PHOTOGRAPHY RENAY ROBISONSCHEER, KENDALL SCHEER + DIANNE MCMILLAN

WHERE IN THE WORLD is Tobago?

Mark McMillan had no idea when he

You can’t be in a rush to get to Tobago. Travel time can take up to 24 hours from Omaha. Trinidad, the point of entry, is a six-hour flight from Houston. Catching the last commuter flight of the day to Tobago can be dicey because of customs. If you miss it, there’s no choice but to overnight in Trinidad. Weather also can impact arrivals and departures.

And then there’s COVID-19, which has placed temporary restrictions on visitors from the United States.

30 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago one

placed the highest bid for a six-night

of their all-time favorite destinations.

stay there.

There’s nothing better, they say, than

McMillan wasn’t intent on landing the vacation package. As he tells the story, it was a live auction at the 2014 Bluejay Jamboree and his tablemates were egging him on to bid to win.

GETTING THERE

consider the tiny, unspoiled island in

The increments weren’t killer, and the idea of vacationing at a private villa with housekeeping service and an ocean view did sound fun. So he kept raising his paddle.

“I had no clue where Tobago was.

After I won, I had to look it up on the map,” the Omahan says.

The memory still makes him laugh.

Today, Tobago (toe-BAY-go) is high on his radar. He and his wife, Dianne,

visiting in January or February — in the dead of a frigid Nebraska winter.

The McMillans have made four trips in six years to the southernmost link in the Caribbean island chain. And each time, two other couples have shared in the adventure. Good friends and fellow Omahans Renay and Kendall Scheer are automatics.

The foursome, plus another couple to take full advantage of a villa that sleeps six, traveled to Tobago for the first time in January 2015 — just ahead of Mardi Gras. Carnival week is reserved for the

CONTINUED ON PAGE 32

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31

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 30 property’s owner, a Creighton alumnus, and a sister living in Trinidad.

The Omahans appreciate the getaway for a chance to relax and recharge in a tropical paradise so protected you sometimes feel like you have it all to yourself.

Tobago is totally void of commercialism and crowds, a quality that the islanders work fiercely to maintain.

The modest villa where they stay is in a gated community with 14 houses built on a lush hillside for views of the ocean just a half-mile away. “We live on the veranda,” Renay says.

A housekeeper comes every morning

villa until dinner.” Other days, they’re

island’s Atlantic and Caribbean coasts

gone all day.

and jungle wetlands and rainforest in

From the villa, it’s a short walk to visit a bird sanctuary or shop for fresh produce or fish.

The island food is phenomenal,

by Kendall and Mark — and goats and cows tied to posts, grazing for the day.

of eastern India, Africa, Italy, England, Ireland and more. Trinidad has a broad international mix because of the oil production there.

The Fish Pot is a favorite dining spot.

In the evening, you can watch the catch of the day being delivered by local fisher-

“It’s so peaceful,” Dianne says. “We

serted isle. Alibaba Tours is a perennial favorite. » Lime with the locals. Sunday School

“Curried goat. Curried iguana — that

for a slice of island social life. Hang out,

adventurous when you dine,” Mark says.

doing something and doing nothing.

» Rent a boat and a skipper for the day and snorkel a coral reef or explore a de-

— a street party in Buccoo Bay — is tops

rooms and share a little island history

It is the perfect mix, Kendall says, of

The Omahans — honorary Tobagonians by this time — also might:

men, and an hour later, you’re eating it. was phenomenal. You have to be a little

dining that day.

Among the roadside curiosities: Freerange chickens — dubbed street walkers

Mark says, noting culinary influences

to make a scratch breakfast, clean the and recommendations for sightseeing or

between.

Well, not everyone. Renay says she’s not that brave.

“Eating iguana wasn’t as scary as driving,” as Kendall discovered.

Locals, like the British, drive on the

dance, sip a little rum. » Plunge 15 feet into a waterfall pool. » Catch a steel orchestra panning a deafening calypso beat.

“We used to joke about not wanting to become people who go to the same place every year,” Dianne says. “Now we have

get up, put on our swimsuits, grab a book

left-hand side of the road. And navigat-

been to Tobago four times.” And mea-

and head for the private infinity pool

ing Tobago’s primitive, ribbon-like roads

suring their enjoyment of other tropical

with an ocean view. At breakfast, we’ll

can be a hair-raising experience.

destinations against their time on the

talk about what everybody feels like doing. Sometimes we don’t even leave the

32 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

Hiring a driver is a safer and more enjoyable way to explore the long, narrow

islands. “If it’s not as great, we’ll say, ‘It’s no Tobago.’”

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33

N E A R + FA R

OFF-SEASON ADVENTURES Grand Canyon’s vistas seem even more stunning without the crowds

34 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

V

STORY + PHOTOGRAPHY KILEY CRUSE isiting the Grand Canyon has always been on my bucket list. I finally checked it off in February.

While only part of Grand Canyon

National Park is open for off-peak travel, winter may be the best time to visit. I’ll gladly take the lack of crowds, cooler temperatures and snow-covered trails. I only wish I had packed a pair of Yaktrax for traction on the rocks.

The Grand Canyon South Rim, which TA MMY YTTRI

is open year-round, is easily accessible from Phoenix (229 miles) or Las Vegas (279 miles), the closest major airports.

CHAPEL OF THE HOLY CROSS

DAY 1 Phoenix to Sedona, 117 miles; Sedona to Williams, 59 miles Taking an early morning direct flight out of Omaha put my husband and I in Phoenix before 9 a.m., leaving us a full day to explore. We rented a car and headed north to Sedona. Our first stop was Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village where we spent the morning browsing art galleries, jewelry stores and specialty shops. My favorite was the Renee Taylor Gallery sculpture garden.

We had lunch at El Rincon Mexican restaurant in the shopping village. The menu featured a blend of traditional

EL RINCON

RAILWAY

Mexican and native Navajo dishes. The restaurant wasn’t very big, but it offered both indoor and outdoor seating. We split one of the house specialties, Navajo Pizza with hand-rolled sopapilla crust.

It was topped with refried beans, chiles, vegetables and cheese. It was different from anything I’ve ever eaten — in a yummy way.

Next stop was the Chapel of the Holy Cross, a Roman Catholic chapel built into the picturesque red buttes on Coconino National Forest land southeast

open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily except Christmas and Easter. The trek from the small parking area to the chapel is a steep climb; volunteers in golf carts circulate for anyone needing a lift.

From Sedona, we drove to Williams

DAY 2 Train to Grand Canyon; Williams to Page, 163 miles The Grand Canyon Railway began carrying passengers to the South Rim in 1901, but the popularity of automobiles

and checked into the Grand Canyon

shuttered the service in 1968. Opera-

Railway & Hotel. Our room package

tions were restored in 1989, decreasing

included breakfast and dinner in the

South Rim traffic by 5% each year (about

buffet-style restaurant and a train ride

50,000 vehicles).

You can ride the Grand Canyon Rail-

of Sedona. Opened in 1956, the chapel

into the national park. The food was

cost $300,000 and required a special-use

good, but if it hadn’t been included, we

permit to be built. The architecture has a

probably would have dined elsewhere for

Prior to departure, there’s an Old West

uniquely modern feel, despite its age. It’s

the price.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 36

way even if you’re not a guest at the hotel.

omaha.com/inspiredliving

35

FOUR THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT WINTER IN THE GRAND CANYON

Thinner crowds Everything is quieter. Yes, tour buses are still around, but February, on average, sees about 25% of the traffic of peak season.

High visibility Thanks to clear skies, visibility is highest in this season. You can see mountain peaks as far as 200 miles away on a clear winter day.

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 35

of the Grand Canyon. It was enough

different days.

show — cheesy but entertaining.

time to check out Lookout Studio, Kolb

Back in Williams, we drove north to

Studio, El Tovar Hotel, Hopi House and

Page for the night, stopping in Flagstaff

the Verkamps Visitor Center. We walked

for a quick dinner. Another perk of

the Rim Trail from the Bright Angel

traveling in the off-season: winter room

Trailhead to Yavapai Point and Geology

rates at an exceptional value. Our one-

chose the middling First Class option.

Museum and back. Dining options here

night stay at the Page Best Western was

Our assigned seats were comfortable

are limited in the off-season; we packed

$49, breakfast included. In peak season,

and we had tons of leg room. Snacks and

a lunch so we didn’t waste precious time

the same room goes for $189 a night.

non-alcoholic beverages, too. At just over

sitting inside a restaurant. If walking

two hours each way, the train ride was

is an issue, there are bus tours to some

the perfect chance to sit back, relax and

points of interest for an additional fee

enjoy the scenery. The refurbished train

(the service is closed through the end of

cars — many dating to the 1920s to 1950s

2020 due to COVID-19 concerns). If you

the day. The local tourism office was

— all include restrooms.

want to spend more time in the park and

closed, so we pulled out our phones. Siri

Once we arrived at the park, we had

can secure a hotel room there, you can

suggested Lee’s Ferry.

about four hours to take in the majesty

ride the train to and from Williams on

HORSESHOE BEND

There are six classes of service, from bench seating in the Pullman car to plush seats in the luxury parlor caboose (reserved for ages 16 and older). We

36 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

DAY 3 Page to Lee’s Ferry and back, 90 miles We had no plans for the first half of

The trip — 10 minutes as the crow flies

More access Some roads reserved for buses during peak seasons permit private vehicles in winter months and are generally less congested.

Temperate temperatures December through February, daytime temps on the canyon floor can reach 60 degrees; higher up, it’s typically in the 30s to 40s.

GLEN CANYON

but 45 minutes by car — delivered us to

of his childhood and played a native

the southern-most area of Glen Canyon

double flute in the middle of a canyon

National Recreation Area. Lee’s Ferry

where the acoustics were amazing. After

is the only place for hundreds of miles

an hour in the slots, we had an incredible

where the Colorado River can be accessed

view of Horseshoe Bend from private

on both sides. It was an important cross-

land adjacent to the public viewing area

ing for early settlers moving west.

— another benefit of the tour.

While I loved seeing the Grand Canyon, I loved this spot by the river

DAY 4

even more for the hiking, scenery and

Page to Phoenix, 273 miles

solitude.

Back in Page, we had a late lunch at the BirdHouse. The restaurant is a bit of a hole-in-the-wall. You order at the register and sit at one of the picnic tables.

Your food is served in plastic baskets, but don’t let that fool you. This place has the best chicken strips — ever! They come in three varieties: original, spicy and honey butter with a side of your choice, including french fries, macaroni and cheese and coleslaw. We tried the spicy and honey butter versions with two sides of broccoli salad. Eating here is a must if you’re in the area.

Our planned adventure for the afternoon was a three-hour tour of Antelope

We had no scheduled plans, only to get to Phoenix by the end of the day. We enjoyed Lee’s Ferry so much that we headed back in that direction, and made an additional stop at Navajo Bridge.

Navajo Bridge is actually a pair of steel bridges spanning the Colorado River; the older bridge is for pedestrians, the newer one, for vehicles. When it was built in 1929, the Navajo Bridge was the tallest steel arch bridge in the United States. It has breathtaking views of the river, and we saw nearly a dozen California condors. Critically endangered, there are only 300 in the wild.

The entrance fee for Glen Canyon Na-

Canyon and Horseshoe Bend through

tional Recreation Area is good for seven

Horseshoe Bend Tours. The outfitter

days, so our return visit still applied.

limits tours to 25 people, but — another

We walked among the balanced rocks

perk of off-season — our tour had only

between the park entrance and the river

nine. Our guide, Trey, is native Navajo,

before continuing on to Phoenix to stay

and the slot canyons we toured were on

the night before an early flight home the

his grandparents’ land. He shared tales

next day.

ANTELOPE CANYON omaha.com/inspiredliving

37

N E A R + FA R

Arizona rocks!

Lesser-known wonders are highlight of a road trip that’s largely spontaneous STORY TAMMY YTTRI PHOTOGRAPHY TAMMY YTTRI + HEIDI YTTRI

G

rowing up in Nebraska and having your birthday fall at the end of January almost al-

ways guarantees a frigid day where your celebration could be canceled by a snowstorm. This year, I decided to skip out on Omaha’s unpredictable weather and take a birthday trip to the Southwest.

My sister, who lives in California, quickly was onboard for a week of road-tripping through Arizona.

The plan: Hit the big tourist sites like Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon and Sedona and see what other gems lie in between. We booked two nights in Page, Arizona, and simply went where the road took us after that.

DAY 1 Departing from Orange County, California, we were armed with an iPhone full of true crime podcasts to get us through the eight hours in the desert,

SKYLIGHT ARCH

where cellular service can be spotty.

It didn’t take long for us to divert from our original route for a longer drive down Arizona Highway 89A by the Vermillion Cliffs National Monument, a stunning wall of red rock.

Along the roadside there’s an old establishment called the Cliff Dwellers where abandoned houses made of stone sit alongside rocks balanced in peculiar formations.

DAY 2 We started the day at Antelope Canyon near Page. You can’t see this stun-

38 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

ning canyon without a guided tour so

protective features. Tourists can stand

make sure to book ahead. For Instagram

right on the edge of steep cliffs to view

lovers, these tour guides are experts at

the river far, far below. It still makes

getting the perfect selfies and even know

me shudder looking back at the photos

the exact photo settings on your iPhone.

of us sitting on the edge with our feet

Another popular tourist spot in the area is Horseshoe Bend. If you have a

dangling over the side.

The highlight of our trip came later

fear of heights, this is not a place for you.

that afternoon on a hike to Skylight

The short hike from the highway takes

Arch, just across the border in Utah.

you to the cliffs where the Colorado Riv-

Finding the trailhead was the hardest

er carved through giant red rock. Unlike

part — there are no paved roads, no

the Grand Canyon with its guardrails to

signs and no parking lots offering a clue.

keep you safe, Horseshoe Bend has no

We learned some valuable life lessons in

search of the arch. First, a Chevy Malibu

scenic loop took us to Sunset Crater Vol-

expertise, length and popularity. We

is not designed for off-road driving in

cano, a national monument with hiking

skipped some of the busier trails in favor

the desert. Second, Tripadvisor reviews

trails that weave through black ash and

of quieter paths around the iconic red

are not 100% reliable — that’s why we

lava that devastated the region about

rocks.

posted our own a few days later.

900 years ago. Some of the paths were

Our trusty sedan could only get us so

iced-over and hard to navigate but that’s

far, so we ended up parked about a mile

only to be expected when you hit the

from the trailhead. Only a faint path

park during the cold off-peak season.

from previous hikers helps guide you

Our drive continued through Wupatki

along this 2.25-mile trek across the rim

National Monument, a vast landscape

with fabulous views. And if you’re lucky

of prairie meadows, pine forests and an-

like us, you won’t encounter another

cient pueblos. Make sure to leave enough

person on the trail.

time to explore the dozens of preserved

At the end of the trail, the floor opens

stone villages where Native Americans

up to reveal a hole with an arch thick

thrived eons ago. The day ended with

enough to walk across for an unforgetta-

a stunning sunset across the painted

ble view of Lake Powell in Arizona.

desert.

DAY 3 Our route took us south to the Grand

DAY 4 Over the mountains from Flagstaff

DAY 5 The final day of our trip was reserved for the long drive back across the desert to California. Of course, we opted for a slightly longer route that took us north to Las Vegas. Why not hit up the Hoover Dam since we were in the area? The shorter guided tour takes you down inside the dam and gives you just enough history to satisfy the average roadtripper.

It was a birthday week I won’t soon forget. Traveling in off-peak season has its perks: smaller crowds and cheaper hotels. It also has its downfalls: shorter

Canyon. Pictures don’t do this place

to the glorious red rock formations of

days and cooler weather. And even

justice; you really have to see it with your

Sedona we go! Hiking was our plan for

though I still wore my plaid pink scarf

own eyes. Though the main reason for

the day, so our first stop was the Sedona

and winter coat for most of our adven-

our trip to Arizona, we only spent a few

Chamber of Commerce Visitors Center.

tures, I didn’t need the snow boots and

hours here before moving west.

The staff gave excellent recommen-

mittens that would have been required if

dations for trails based on level of

I had celebrated back home in Nebraska.

Just north of Flagstaff, a 34-mile

SEDONA

WUPATKI NATIONAL MONUMENT

CLIFF DWELLERS omaha.com/inspiredliving

39

GARDENING

A D O BE STO C K

Spreading her wings Monarch Butterfly Biosphere in Micho-

with a number that is recorded along

acán, Mexico.

with whether it was raised or wild, and

It made an intense horseback ride up the mountains to the World Heritage

deceased butterfly in Mexico, conserva-

Site last spring worthwhile for her and

tionists report it back to the Monarch

husband Terry.

Watch.

“He doesn’t like horses, but he did it MARJIE DUCEY

SPEAKING OF PLANTS

J

ulie Johnson was astonished as the proud guide pulled the tags from his

wallet.

Two of the monarch butterflies she had hatched 1,786 miles away in Oakland, Nebraska, had made it to the

40 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

male or female. If the tag is found on a

anyway,” Julie says. “It was quite a ride.”

Julie, a grocery store owner in

“I raise and tag monarchs all summer long,” Julie says. This year she has raised the second and third generations, and

Oakland, has been raising and tagging

the fourth generation is laying eggs.

butterflies for six years — 500 of them —

That’s the generation that migrates to

since seeing it done on a visit to Hitch-

Mexico.

cock Nature Center in Honey Creek,

The day we talked, Julie had 30 eggs

Iowa, with her granddaughters. She

growing on milkweed plants in mesh

records her efforts with the Monarch

laundry baskets in her former hot tub

Watch at the University of Kansas.

room. With screened windows, it’s

Each butterfly gets a little white sticky

almost like being outdoors.

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With a diet of milkweed, the eggs grow into larva and then pupa. In the final step, she never tires of watching the beautiful transformation from chrysalis into butterfly.

“Then you let them go. You open up the door and let them fly. And then they go do their thing again.”

Julie doesn’t just raise them. Last year, the citizen scientist netted hundreds of monarchs in a seven-day stretch as the butterflies migrated through Oakland. She’d catch 30 in her net at a time, tagging and recording each

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one before letting it go.

“That takes a lot of time,” she says, “but it’s just so fun.”

Julie works it in around running Nelson’s Food Pride, which has been around for 110 years. She’s a thirdgeneration owner and son Dillon will be the next.

She’s also an avid gardener with beds at her home, the grocery store, the Swedish Heritage Center and the family’s bed-and-breakfast inn, The Bing, on Main Street. It gives her a lot of places to capture monarchs, she says, and lots of areas to grow milkweed.

She’ll head outdoors to prune and weed after a long day at the store.

“It’s not work to me,” she says, “it’s R

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Listen to what others say about our magazine.

Thank you to the staff of Inspired Living for coming to visit us last summer. The story your editor presented and the pictures in the magazine were beautiful and amazing.

We had several people come to the garden yesterday as a result of reading the article and seeing our ads. We sold a lot of plants this weekend -- the most we have ever sold!

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42 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

COOKING WITH

We got cooking — Hungarian-style A culinary class wasn’t a Top 10 thing to do in Budapest – until now STORY CHRIS CHRISTEN PHOTOGRAPHY CHRIS CHRISTEN + KURT A. KEELER

A

Hungarian cooking class was the last thing I wanted to do as a tourist

in Budapest. But there I was, preparing paper-thin pastry layers for apple strudel. And loving it.

The experience, at Chefparade Cooking School, turned out to be a highlight of a three-day city tour with Rick Steves’ Europe last October.

That’s saying a lot because I don’t cook. Or bake. But I do enjoy food, and the Hungarian classics we prepared were fun and delicious and easy enough to try at home.

“There’s a huge amount of competition among cooking studios in Budapest,” resident chef Paul Mizner told our group.

There are several, and all aspire to be the best. Chefparade opened 14 years ago with one studio and now has four. Its 26 resident and guest chefs offer 120 different classes a year. And in 2018, some 26,500 people — locals and travelers alike — signed up for them.

Popularity is growing, Mizner said, as studios get more creative with culinary experiences. A new Chefparade franchise in Prague, for example, offers a cooking-and-glamping package that includes a chef-prepared breakfast the next day. “We’re toying with the idea here,” Mizner said.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 45 omaha.com/inspiredliving

43

44 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

Upon arrival, each person in our

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 43 For folks seeking personal experience travel, this is a hands-on opportunity to cook, to ask questions of accomplished chefs and to enjoy the camaraderie that comes from preparing and sharing a meal together.

Mizner, who is Scottish, and his guest chef assistant were patient teachers.

strudel. It was far less intensive than the

group of 24 donned an apron and drew

scratch Spicy Cottage Cheese Cream,

a slip of paper from a jar with a duty

Sour Cherry Soup, and a very complex

assignment. Paper in hand, we moved

Pork Stew and Chicken Paprika.

to our designated prep stations where a

The best part of the novel two-hour

recipe and ingredients were waiting. The

experience was sharing in the meal and

chefs worked the room, explaining steps

toasting our success. My least-favorite

and demonstrating techniques, and then

part? Unicum. The potent herbal liqueur

turned us loose to prepare lunch.

is a classic finish to Hungarian meals.

I was relieved to be making apple

Clearly, it’s an acquired taste.

HUNGARIAN APPLE STRUDEL (ALMAS RETES) MAKES 3 ROLLS OR 16-20 SERVINGS Prep time: 45-60 minutes. This layered pastry with typically sweet filling first became popular in 18th-century Austria. The Hungarian version traditionally is made with a Middle Eastern or Turkish filo dough that’s rolled out and stretched by hand, rested, and then rolled out again. In this recipe from Chefparade Cooking School, pre-made filo sheets cut prep time significantly.

INSTRUCTIONS 1 package filo dough (about 12 sheets) 2 pounds of apples ½ tablespoon ground cinnamon 1 cup sugar 2 tablespoons breadcrumbs, toasted ¼ cup butter, melted (4 tablespoons) Powdered sugar for dusting Cooking oil for brushing

1. Peel and core apples then grate them into a big bowl. 2. Add cinnamon and sugar; mix well.

3. Lightly dampen a clean linen kitchen towel and spread smooth on a flat work surface. Place apple filling in center of towel. 4. Gather towel around the apple filling and, holding over a small glass bowl, squeeze out any excess juice. While still in towel, roll filling into a log about three-fourths the width of a filo sheet. Set aside. 5. Spread another clean linen towel on work surface and carefully lay one filo sheet on top of it. Gently smooth the dough and brush with melted butter. Repeat with a second and third layer of filo, staggering the top edges of the sheets about one-fourth inch. For a flakier strudel, add a fourth sheet. 6. Scatter breadcrumbs lightly onto the top filo sheet. 7. Place apple filling along the bottom edge of prepared filo and roll up the pastry tightly. Tuck the ends to hold in filling. Brush top and sides of dough roll with butter. 8. Bake on a cookie sheet in preheated 350 F oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Strudel is done when it looks like it has collapsed. Let cool. Cut into slices, plate and dust with powdered sugar.

Note: You can vary the filling by adding chopped walnuts or raisins. Adapted from “Hungarian Classics” by Chefparade Cooking School omaha.com/inspiredliving

45

46 S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 2 0

RECIPES

Light as air STORY + PHOTOGRAPHY KILEY CRUSE

We’ll take a generous slice of this buttery, puffy oven pancake, please and thank you.

VANILLA DUTCH BABY INSTRUCTIONS 4 tablespoons butter 4 eggs, at room temperature ¾ cup flour (all-purpose works but bread flour adds puffiness) ¾ cup milk, heated 20 to 30 seconds in the microwave 1½ tablespoons sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract Pinch salt 3 cups fruit Powdered sugar, for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 425 F. 2. Put a large (12-inch), ovenproof pan in the oven to heat while you mix the batter.

3. In a blender, combine the eggs, flour, warm milk, sugar, vanilla extract and pinch of salt. Blend on medium-high speed until uniform. (If mixing by hand, combine the eggs with the milk until the mixture is light yellow and no longer stringy, about 1 minute. Add the flour, sugar, vanilla and pinch of salt, and whisk vigorously to remove lumps, about 30 seconds.)

4. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven. Add butter and let melt. 5. Swirl the butter around the pan to coat completely, and then pour the remaining butter into the batter and pulse to blend. Pour the batter into the hot pan and return the pan to the oven. Cook until the pancake is puffed in the center and golden brown along the edges, about 20 minutes.

6. Using a spatula, remove the entire Dutch baby from the pan and place on a cooling rack for a few minutes to allow the steam to escape without condensing along the bottom and rendering the pancake soggy. 7. Dust with powdered sugar and top with fruit of your choice. Slice the pancake into 8 wedges and serve. Adapted from foodnetwork.com omaha.com/inspiredliving

47

SMALL BUSINESS DIRECTORY

ALL SEASONS FLORAL & GIFTS

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Find designer, vintage, antiques, clothing and furniture. Call for pickup of your estate sale leftovers. Ranked Best Thrift Store in Nebraska by BestThingsNE.com. Back by popular demand: Holiday Store (now open 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Wed.-Sat.) with Halloween, Thanksgiving and Christmas merchandise.

Fun Midtown shopping! Rosie Jane has an amazing variety of clothes, books, and toys for babies and toddlers. Just next door, Spruce has a wide range of home décor and gifts for every occasion.

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